A Free Guidebook by the Leith Local History Society

Explore Historic Leith

A FREE guidebook by the Leith Local History Society The Leith Guidebook Explore Historic Leith The Leith Trust seeks to promote a As the Chair of the Leith Trust, it gives current engagement between “Leithers” Leith is an area with a long and I hope you enjoy using this book as a me considerable pleasure to offer an and visitors to our community, in a fascinating history. This guidebook has means to find out more about Leith, its endorsement to this fine and valuable real sense of enhanced community been produced to invite you to explore people and its history. guidebook to Leith. engagement with shared interests the area for yourself, as a local resident in the protection of our environment, or a visitor, and find out more about Cllr Gordon Munro Leith has for centuries been both the the celebration of our heritage and Leith’s hidden gems. Leith Ward marine gateway to Edinburgh and its the development of educational economic powerhouse. So many of the opportunities for all. We can be bound The book has been developed grand entries to our capital city have together in demolishing the artificial in partnership between the Leith come through Leith, most significant of boundaries that any community, Local History Society and the City which was the arrival of King George IV anywhere in the world can thoughtlessly of Edinburgh Council. Thanks and in 1822, at the behest of Sir Walter create, and instead create a real sense acknowledgement must go to the Scott. As to economic impact simply of trust and pride in each other and the History Society and in particular their look up at the friezes and decoration settings in which we live and work. Chair, Mr Jim Tweedie, whose excellent of many of our older buildings to see work and extensive knowledge has the care that our predecessors took to This guidebook will help you navigate helped in the production of this provide a built environment of which to our highways and byways, the tales guidebook. be proud, based on their wealth. of those long past and of the present day and allow you to share our sense of pride in the ‘Left Bank of Edinburgh’ where as a glittering oyster there is ‘Leith has for always some grit! centuries been Sir Andrew Cubie, CBE both the marine Chair, The Leith Trust gateway to Edinburgh and its economic powerhouse.’

HISTORIC LEITH 3 How to use this guidebook Introduction

This booklet aims to help you plan a Whatever direction you take, the Leith The earliest mention of Leith is in the Leith continued as the largest and busiest walking tour around the historic sites of Local History Society hopes that with the Foundation Charter for Holyrood Abbey port in Scotland until the trade routes to Leith. You don’t have to follow a specified help of this booklet you will find lots to from 1128, when David I gave the existing the Americas opened and Glasgow and route to see all the sites and it is left to interest you in and around historic Leith. harbour and land on the north side of the west took over in the 18th century. you to plan your own journey. You may the river to the Abbots of Holyrood. Later, want to devise several routes around Sometimes the booklet mentions the the lands on the south were given to Leith has a long and fascinating history. the area. interior of buildings. This does not always Peter, one of his Anglo Norman friends. Occupied and fought over by the Scottish, mean that these buildings are open to Peter took the name of the lands he was English and French through the centuries, All the sites have been numbered, the public and you will be able to look given and became Peter de Lestarig – or it has seen many changes. The Burgh starting with Queen Victoria’s statue at inside. However, some of the buildings Restalrig as we know it today. The King of Leith gained its independence from the Foot of Leith Walk, because it is very mentioned in the booklet may be open established a new harbour on the south Edinburgh following the Burghs Act of easy to find. during the annual ‘Edinburgh Doors Open side, where the Water of Leith entered the 1833, but this came to an end when the Day’ event, which is held in September. Forth (where the King’s Wark is today). two were joined in 1920. Most visitors will arrive in Leith via Leith Walk, from where you will have a choice of For more information please visit: During the Middle Ages, Trade Guilds Although Leith has now lost its directions from which to start your tour. www.cockburnassociation.org.uk (or Incorporations as they are known shipbuilding and some heavy industries, in Scotland) were established in Leith. it has diversified and we now see a new The town of North Leith was a Leith emerging. Burgh of Regality under the Burgh of Canongate, and the town of South The Leith motto is ‘Persevere’. That is what Leith was a Burgh of Barony down from Leith has done over the years and will Logan of Restalrig. Since Edinburgh continue to do so in the future. held superiority over Leith, it declared these ‘unfree’ and inferior to Edinburgh Incorporations.

After the loss of Berwick to England, Leith became the principal port of Scotland as the border trade of wool and skins Jim Tweedie then came through Leith. It helped that Leith Local History Society Edinburgh was the capital, and it was www.leithlocalhistorysociety.org.uk Edinburgh’s money which supported the expansion of Leith.

HISTORIC LEITH 5 1128 1841 1874 Is the earliest recorded mention Charles Drummond produces The Victoria Swing Bridge is Historic events in of Leith in the Foundation the one of the world’s first completed – the largest swing Charter for Holyrood Abbey. greetings cards in Leith – a New bridge in the United Kingdom at Year greetings card. the time.

1559 1837 1886 The town is first fortified during The passenger/cargo ship SS Sirius Leith Hospital is the first the 1559 - 1560 Siege of Leith. (the first to cross the Atlantic under hospital in Scotland to admit its own power) is built in Leith by female medical students to its Leith Robert Menzies & Sons. wards for clinical training.

1651 1832 1903 The Mercurious Scoticus, one Leith gets its first railway, a Leith Nautical College opens. of the first Scottish newspapers, branch line of the Edinburgh and is printed in Leith. Dalkeith railway.

1670 1832 1905 Sir James Stanfield sets up a The first intravenous treatment Electric trams arrive in Leith. brewery in Leith, the largest for cholera is given in Leith by industrial unit in Scotland at Dr Thomas Latta. the time.

1680 1821 1910 The teaching of mathematics The first steamship service from The first aeroplane to fly in begins at Trinity House to teach Leith to London begins. Scotland is built by Gibson and boys navigation. Son in Leith.

1744 1771 The world’s first rules of golf Permission is given for the are drawn up to be used on construction of Leith’s first Leith Links. dry dock. 22 Leith Ocean Drive Guide to historic Leith

Ocean Drive 1 Queen Victoria’s Statue Ocean Drive 2 South Leith Parish Church Lindsay Road 20 19 Ocean Drive 3 St Mary’s Star of the Sea Church 21 4 Edinburgh Guru Nanak Gurdwara 18 5 Edinburgh Hindu Mandir and Cultural Centre 2 North Junction Street 17 t Commercial Street 6 Mohiuddin Jamia Masjid and Education Centre S d n 16 Tower St a e 7 North Leith Parish Church 23 tl 29 r r o o h N P Dock St o 28 S Ocean Way 8 Trinity House r Timberbush th 15

F o 9 Old Leith Town Hall/Council Chambers r t S 25 t Prince Regent St 10 Assembly Rooms and Exchange Buildings 7 Madeira St Sa Be nSandportd Pl r 32 27 p na o r 11 Corn Exchange r 14 d 11 24 Coburg St t S 9 P re t l o 12 Robert Burns’ Statue h 13 12 S 30 Baltic St 13 Leith Bank Ferry Road 4 10 14 King’s Wark Mill Ln Sheriff Brae 15 Along the Shore Tolbooth Wynd

South Fort St t 16 The Signal Tower e e 9 King St r 31 t S ConstitutionQueen St Charlotte St

17 The Sailor’s Home (now Malmaison Hotel) Great Junction Street n

Cables Wynd o s

18 Scotland’s Merchant Navy Memorial 19 r 3

n 19 Harpoon Gun e

H 8 20 Victoria Swing Bridge 2 21 Victoria Quay (Scottish Government Building) 6 33 35 22 Ocean Terminal/Royal Yacht Britannia l oad P R n 23 Leith Fort n 34 tio to nc 1 ng Ju A900 St Andrew Pl 24 Leith Library and Thomas Morton Hall ni Leith Links 30 n o J B a 5 25 Norwegian Seaman’s Church n e l Academy St S Duke Street P t 26 Hibernian Football Club re n e a t c n 27 St Ninian’s Manse u D 28 The Citadel 29 Custom House Pilrig Park alk Go rd on 30 Lamb’s House S Pilrig Street tre 31 The Vaults et eith W Leith 32 L Public Art B Academy a L lf o 33 Dr Bell’s School o c u h r e S n 34 Leith Victoria Swim Centre tr d e e R t o a 35 Golf on the Links d Lo 36 The Drill Hall rne St ree d t a

o S t Clair S

r tr e eet t s ll Avenue khi Da a w lme Ha ny S E treet 26 36 Hibernian FC St Clair Street n Road 8 HISTORIC LEITH HISTORICAlbio LEITH(Easter 9 Road) Queen Victoria’s Statue South Leith Parish Church St Mary’s Star of the Sea Edinburgh Guru Nanak Gurdwara

The statue of Queen Victoria was sculpted The church was built circa 1483 by the The Catholic mission in Leith was founded Situated at 1 Sheriff Brae, this building by John S Rhind and unveiled in 1907 with Trade Incorporations of Leith, the largest by Father Thomas Carlyle in 1847 and it started life as St Thomas’ Church. The great pomp and ceremony. In 1913, further of which was the Master Mariners of Trinity soon became evident that they needed their church was built in 1843 with money donated side panels were added to commemorate House. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary own church. To meet this need, the parish by Sir John Gladstone. He was Member Queen Victoria’s visit to Leith in 1842 and and was known as the ‘New Kyrk of our purchased the 17th century Balmerino of Parliament for Lancaster and a friend of her review of the volunteers who served in Ladie of Leith’. House in 1848 to be used as church, school Leith’s first Provost. He was also the father of the Boer War. and presbytery. William Gladstone, who was Prime Minister It suffered during the ‘Rough Wooing’ of four times during the 19th century. Queen Victoria did not actually land in Leith. 1544 and 1547 by the English. During the Plans were drawn up by the architect She arrived by a steamship that needed the 1559 - 1560 Siege of Leith both English Augustus Pugin and the first Eucharist The congregation of St Thomas joined with deep-water facilities at Granton. However, and Scottish artillery destroyed the presided over by Archbishop Gillies in 1854. Junction Road Church in 1975. she passed through Leith on her way from chancel, transepts and central tower. After In 1859 the Oblates of Mary Immaculate In 1976, the building was purchased by Lord Rosebery’s house at Dalmeny to 1560 when the Reformation was confirmed, arrived to serve the parish. Edinburgh’s Sikh community for use as their Dalkeith Palace (the home of the Duke of what remained of the nave was considered In 1861 a new presbytery was built, but by Gurdwara. The part of the temple used for Buccleuch). A triumphal arch was quickly sufficient for Protestant worship. 1900 the church had become too small and worship is located in the upper part of the erected in Great Junction Street outside The church as you see it today was a new aisle was added. original church. The ground floor houses a Dr Bell’s School in time for the Queen’s reconstructed and restored in 1847/48 by community centre. arrival and she was greeted by the Provost St Mary’s Primary School was built in the Thomas Hamilton. of Leith. church grounds in 1903 until it moved to There was an arson attack on the building The present tower shows the arms of four Yardheads in 1938 and then to Leith Links in 1989, but recovery was swift and the This is a focal point for the exploration of consecutive monarchs. The north face in 1979. The old school was renamed the Temple was re-inaugurated at a large multi- historic Leith. From this location you can displays the arms of King James VI and the Stella Maris Centre and continued to serve faith gathering led by Edinburgh’s Lord access Great Junction Street, Duke Street, west shows the arms of King Charles I. the community until 2004. Provost Eleanor McLaughlin. Kirkgate or Constitution Street, all of which contain buildings mentioned in this guide. In the front porch are the arms of Marie From 1999 until 2004, thanks to the www.edinburghsikhs.com de Guise (widow of James V) and Mary generosity of Sir Tom Farmer, the church Queen of Scots. and presbytery were refurbished and the new pastoral centre was built. 4 1 www.slpc.co.uk On 10 December 2004 the new Stella Maris Centre was opened by Sir Tom and Lady 2 Farmer. www.stmarysstarofthesea.org

10 HISTORIC LEITH HISTORIC LEITH 11 Edinburgh Hindu Mandir and Mohiuddin Jamia Masjid & North Leith Parish Church Trinity House Cultural Centre Education Centre The church opened in 1816 when the Although the present Trinity House dates The building was formerly used as This building (formerly the Junction Road expanding congregation moved from from 1816, the Fraternity of Master Mariners St Andrew’s Church, which is now located Church) was the first to be constructed on St Ninian’s, Quayside. The building was can trace its origins back to 1380. A charter on Easter Road. The church belonged Great Junction Street. The building was designed by William Burns (an Edinburgh from King Robert II gave them the right to to a group who originally left the Church originally used as a relief church. architect) along similar lines to Falkirk levy a tax known as ‘Prime Gilt’, which they of Scotland in 1733 over the question of Town Hall. levied on every ship which entered Leith The foundation stone was laid in March Harbour. This tax, along with a portion of patronage. Patronage relates to the right The church was constructed to generous 1824 and the building opened for worship in the profits made by each captain after a of the local land owner, rather than the specifications and with high quality January 1825. In 1929 they reunited with the voyage, helped to provide for widows and congregation, to select the minister. Over materials formed from 70 foot lengths of Church of Scotland. orphans of men lost at sea. time, patronage was abolished and most pitch pine brought from North America. The of the splits in the Church of Scotland were In 1975 they were joined by St Thomas’ design is dependent on symmetry. It is laid Trinity House played a large part in the repaired. Most of these churches joined Church from Mill Lane, to form the St out as a Presbyterian church with the pulpit education of boys by teaching them together again in 1929. Thomas - Junction Road Church. They in central and prominent, with light coloured mathematics for use in navigation at sea. turn amalgamated with St Andrew’s Church, plaster walls and upper storey windows to Extensive renovation has been carried out The building is now known as the Trinity on Easter Road in October 2009. catch the light. The church has remained on the building, supported by the local House Maritime Museum and is in the care virtually unaltered since 1816. Hindu community, the Heritage Lottery The Mohiuddin Trust has owned the of Historic Scotland. Fund, Historic Scotland and the City of building at 123 Great Junction Street since Its site in Madeira Street made it a focal The museum contains many treasures of Edinburgh Council. The building re-opened 2012, which is now used as the Mohiuddin point for the area intended as Leith’s ‘New Leith’s past including stories of captains in 2011 as the Edinburgh Hindu Mandir and Jamia Masjid and Information Centre. Town’. The imposing view looking up Prince and their memories of voyages. It also has Cultural Centre. At the opening ceremony The Mosque is open for daily prayer (five Regent Street towards the church is really a large collection of maritime artefacts and Lord Provost George Grubb commented times per day) and the centre is managed something worth seeing. that it was pleasing to see the building with help from volunteers within the local paintings. returned to its original glory. In 1941 the Church suffered from blast community. Guided tours can be arranged through damage when a land mine shattered a large Historic Scotland. The building has now become a hub for www.mohiuddintrust.org.uk area of North Leith. It reopened in 1950 the Hindu community of Scotland and is following restoration and refurbishment. www.trinityhouseleith.org.uk used for arts and culture, religious and community activities. http://home.btconnect.com/NLPC/ www.edinburghhindumandir.org.uk © Crown Copyright reproduced courtesy of Historic Scotland. www.historicscotlandimages.gov.uk

5 6 7 8

12 HISTORIC LEITH HISTORIC LEITH 13 Old Leith Town Hall/Council Assembly Rooms and Exchange Corn Exchange Robert Burns’ Statue Chambers (Leith Police Station) Buildings At the corner of Constitution Street and The statue to the Bard was made by David This imposing building was erected in 1827 The Assembly Rooms were opened in 1785 Baltic Street lies the Corn Exchange. As Watson Stevenson and erected in 1898 as a court house. Following the Burgh Act and extended in 1810 as Leith Exchange Leith was the centre of the grain trade in by the Leith Burns Appreciation Society. of 1833 Leith became an Independent and Assembly Rooms. The Exchange was Scotland it was a busy place. Thousands of Leith residents attended the unveiling. burgh. The council, consisting of 16 then the commercial heart of the Port of Built in 1861 as an open marketing hall, councillors moved into the court house. Leith. It contained a hotel, a large reading this building has fulfilled a variety of The statue has been moved around that room, a library and sale rooms. It also had This became the council chambers but still functions in its lifetime and has recently area of Bernard Street to suit the traffic ballrooms on two levels. housed the burgh court. The cells were in been re-launched as the Creative needs of the busy junction. Exchange, a flexible workspace for people the same building so that prisoners could In the mid 20th century the Assembly The panels around the plinth depict scenes working in creative industries. be brought straight up to be charged. The Rooms were a popular venue for dances from Burns’ poems. jail was attached to the north side of the and wedding receptions and for a time in Perhaps the one outstanding feature of the What was Burns’ connection with Leith? building facing Constitution Street and this the 1950s was a public dance hall. building which is often overlooked is the There does not appear to be a close part still retains its original interior. frieze which runs the length of the west side The building has now been converted into connection, but in a letter to his friend Gavin of the building down Constitution Street. The police station is on the corner of Queen flats and commercial offices. Hamilton he describes dining at a friend’s Sculpted by John Rhind, it depicts cherubs Charlotte Street and in 1864 they took over house in Leith while they ‘danced, sang and engaged in various agricultural activities. a terrace of Georgian houses incorporating drank until late enough’ and where he met a them into the town hall complex. www.creativeexchangeleith.com pretty girl. Sounds like Rabbie right enough. Leith amalgamated with Edinburgh in 1920 despite a plebiscite showing the majority of people in Leith opposed to this. The Council Chamber remains as it was the day the council left and is owned by the City 11 12 of Edinburgh Council. The entire building is now occupied by Police Scotland. www.scotland.police.uk

9 10

14 HISTORIC LEITH HISTORIC LEITH 15 Leith Bank The King’s Wark Along the Shore

The Leith Banking Company was set up in As Leith was a busy port, to regulate trade One of the first things you see along the 1792, with the partners being mostly local James I (1406-37) set up a Custom House at Shore is the street sign ‘Timberbush’. This 15 merchants. By 1806 the bank was trading the harbour mouth. This was known as ‘The marks the site of a timber market where, from the elegant two storey building on King’s Wark’. It became a storehouse and from the late 16th Century, wood brought in Bernard Street and issuing its own bank arsenal and his royal descendants added to from the Baltic was stored and traded. notes. It even expanded with branches in it until it became a large group of buildings Opposite Timberbush is a plaque which other towns and had a tent for business at stretching along what is now Bernard Street marks the spot where King George IV landed markets and agricultural shows. and south as far as Broad Wynd. There is on his visit to Scotland in 1822. This was the no evidence of it being a royal residence It met with hard times in the 1830s and in first visit of a reigning monarch since 1650, but we do know that there was a Royal (real) 1842 had to close down. It was followed and was stage managed by Sir Walter Scott. tennis court there, which is a cross between by the Edinburgh and Leith Banking a tennis and squash court. A fine example of In front of the new dock gates there stands Company which eventually merged with the such a tennis court can still be seen at The a bust of John Hunter, who was born in Clydesdale Bank. National Trust for Scotland’s Falkland Palace Leith and became the second governor of Today the premises are occupied by the IT and Gardens in Fife which is reputed to be New South Wales from 1795 - 1800. This company UniTech. the oldest court still played on today. was sculpted by the Australian artist Victor Cusack and unveiled in 1994. www.unitech.co.uk The building is now home to a well-known, award winning Leith pub, also called the Nearby is another sculpture, that of a man King’s Wark. relaxing on a bench. This is a statue of Sandy Irvine Robertson OBE (1942 - 1999), www.thekingswark.com a local wine merchant and founder of the Scottish Business Achievements Awards Trust. The bench was commissioned by his friends and sculpted by Lucy Poett ARBS. You will also see a slate construction by 13 14 the sculptor James Parker, containing © Victor Cusack three discs commemorating the lives of the musicians Boz Burrell (1946 - 2006), Tam White (1942 - 2010) and Derek “Del Boy” Allen (1933 - 2001). www.lucypoett.com www.victorcusack.com.au A.R.B.S Poett Lucy © www.drystonesculpture.co.uk

16 HISTORIC LEITH HISTORIC LEITH 17 The Signal Tower The Sailors’ Home Scotland’s Merchant Navy Memorial

This is one of the oldest buildings left in This building (now the Malmaison Hotel), Scotland’s Merchant Navy Memorial is Leith. Built by Robert Mylne in 1685 - 86, designed by CCS Johnston in the Scottish situated at the Shore, near to the former 18 it was originally a windmill for oilseed rape baronial style, was constructed at a cost of Sailors’ Home (now the Malmaison Hotel). which in those days was imported from the £9,000. It was opened by Lord Rosebery in The design follows a tradition of naval Baltic States. Being the King’s mason (or 1885 and replaced an earlier Sailors’ Home columns which goes back to classical architect), he also built a new harbour in from 1840. times. The memorial scenes are all cast Leith. in bronze and the column itself is of bearl The new building could accommodate 56 sandstone. In 1805 the domed roof and sails seamen, nine officers and if necessary, were removed and it was topped with 50 shipwrecked sailors could be housed At the top is the crown of the Merchant Navy battlements. From then on, it was used in the attics. Other facilities included a crest and depicts two wooden clipper ship as a signal tower from which flags were dining room, recreation rooms which could bows and two steel ship bows, fastened by displayed to give information about the be converted to accommodate lectures four sails. depth of water at the sand bar, which was at or concerts, and an officers’ sitting room, The upper panels represent the variety the entrance to the harbour. bathrooms and toilets. of merchant ships through history, while The building is now the premises of the As the need for this type of home the middle panels portray the destruction restaurant Fishers in Leith. diminished, the property lay empty for of war. The images at eye level are of the several years before being refurbished in trading routes of the world and the figures www.fishersbistros.co.uk/fishers-in- 1994. Now, as the Malmaison Hotel it caters on the shelves depict scenes of everyday leith.php for a different clientele and has a more life in the Merchant Navy. Ground level luxurious standard of accommodation. scenes commemorate the educational role 16 of the Leith Nautical College and its training www.malmaison.com/locations/ ship T.S Dolphin. edinburgh The monument was sculpted by Jill Watson, Sculptor. The stone work was designed with 17 assistance from Benjamin Tindall Architects. The bronze was cast and installed by Powderhall Bronze, gilded by Graciela Ainsworth and the masonry was constructed and finished by Bob Thompson. On 3 September 1939 the SS Athenia was sunk by a U-boat and became the first casualty on the first day of World War II. Since 2000 this day has been recognised as Merchant Navy Day. The memorial was unveiled in 2010 by HRH Princess Royal, Patron of the Merchant Navy Memorial Trust (Scotland). www.merchantnavymemorialtrust.org.uk www.jillwatsonstudio.co.uk www.graciela-ainsworth.com www.powderhallbronze.co.uk © Merchant Navy Memorial Trust

18 HISTORIC LEITH HISTORIC LEITH 19 The Harpoon Gun Victoria Swing Bridge Victoria Quay (Scottish Government Building) The harpoon preserved on The Shore It was still in use in the early 19th Bridges have always been important as a reminds us of an industry that was once century when it was owned by Peter and means of connecting north and south Leith. Construction of this prize-winning building very important in Leith, namely whaling. Christopher Wood. When blubber boiling The first bridge was made of stone, and started in 1993 on the site of the 1806 East Nowadays we regard whaling with distaste. was taking place a strong pungent oily built downriver by the Abbot of Holyrood Old Dock, as part of the development of Within living memory it was, however, smell spread through the town – it was in 1486. However, fixed bridges impeded Victoria Quay. The Queen officially opened regarded as a valuable source of food, oils known locally as “Woods’ scent bottle”. shipping on the river and the stone bridge the building in 1996. and of raw materials for industry. Whale oil was demolished in the 18th century. It was In 1908 a new phase of whaling started It was released to the then Scottish Office was, for instance, used in the manufacture replaced by a drawbridge that could be when Christian Salvesen & Son sent a in 1995 and allowed the accommodation of of margarine and soap. lifted to allow boats through. whaling fleet from Leith to the Antarctic. more departments in one place than ever There were two distinct phases to the A swing bridge is another means of before. In 1999, following parliamentary They established a whaling station called whaling industry in Leith. From 1616 until allowing shipping to pass. The Victoria devolution, it passed to the Scottish ‘Leith Harbour’ in South Georgia. By 1842 Leith whalers sailed to Arctic waters, Swing Bridge was completed in 1874. Executive, now Scottish Government. 1911 their whaling fleet was the largest mainly around Greenland. This was an It carried double rail and road tracks in the world. For many Leith people the Particular care was given to artistic features uncertain business with ships running the with a footpath along each side. When it whaling industry was a valuable source of in the interior. Paintings were borrowed from risk of being crushed by ice or, in times of was built it was the largest swing bridge employment until whaling ceased in 1963. the Scottish Arts Council’s collection and war, captured by enemy warships. In the in the United Kingdom, and it was last permanent features were also created. early 18th century a ‘boiling house’ was opened in 1964. Nowadays the rail tracks established in the Timber Bush. have been removed and with a new road In addition to the Scottish Government bridge running parallel to it, it is solely for building, housing and retail development of pedestrian use. the quay has also taken place. An attractive gateway commemorating the quay’s fishing For those interested in the technical past completes the area. features of the bridge, it was originally 19 hydraulically operated, but this system www.scotland.gov.uk was later replaced with a bowstring swing bridge. 21

20 HISTORIC LEITH HISTORIC LEITH 21 Ocean Terminal/Royal Yacht Britannia Leith Fort Leith Library and the Thomas Morton Hall The Royal Yacht Britannia is berthed next commercial traffic with coal exported and In 1779, under the command of John Paul to the Ocean Terminal Shopping Centre, grain, wine, timber and other merchandise Jones (‘Father of the United States Navy’ - Thomas Morton Hall is part of the complex which has over 50 retail stores, as well as imported. or pirate!), the ‘Bon Homme Richard’ sailed known as Leith Town Hall – a name for the coffee bars, restaurants and a cinema. into the Forth with two French ships. Their complex which was never a town council During the early 1900s ships constantly intention was to hold Leith and Edinburgh headquarters, but actually a public building Now a five-star visitor attraction, Britannia sailed in and out of Leith Docks. There were to ransom. Fortunately a storm blew up erected after the amalgamation of Edinburgh was home to Her Majesty the Queen and daily sailings to Queensferry, Aberdour, and Jones and his ships were blown out and Leith. It has a marriage suite upstairs the Royal Family for over 40 years. The Kirkcaldy, North Berwick and cruises of the Forth. After this event it was realised which combines with the Registrar’s office Royal Yacht travelled over one million miles, around the Bass Rock, as well as sailings that Leith had no protection and with plans attached to the south side of the library. It is representing Britain and the Commonwealth. to London three days a week and, for the afoot for new deep water docks, it was more commonly known as the Leith Theatre Visitors can follow in the footsteps of royalty rich, cruises to Holland and Belgium. decided to build a fort in North Leith. The complex now. The Thomas Morton Hall, to discover the heart and soul of this most Nowadays, Leith is still a commercial dock, task was given to James Craig of New Foyer, Marriage Suite and Main Theatre will special of Royal residences. and is also a popular destination for cruise Town fame and the Fort was constructed in be managed as a centre for arts, education, Ocean Terminal was built on the site of the ships from all over the world. 1780. The Royal Artillery took over the fort and events by the Leith Theatre Trust during famous Ramage and Ferguson (and later in 1793. 2014. They will be working towards the www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk Henry Robb) shipyards. Many thousands of restoration of the Main Theatre and bringing it www.oceanterminal.com This fort never fired a shot in anger and the ships were built by the thousands of men back into use. last parade was in 1957 when the army left who were employed in the shipyards. the fort, ending 164 years of connection Leith Library was originally opened in 1929 The Kobenhavn (a training ship for Danish with Leith. A gun (or cannon) was taken but suffered extensive bomb damage in 1941. Navy Cadets), which was built by Ramage from the Fort up to Edinburgh Castle, It was re-commissioned as a library in 1955, and Ferguson, was the largest sailing ship for the first ever firing of the famous One but like all libraries its role has changed over ever built in the UK. Launched in 1921, she O’clock Gun. the years and issuing books is now only one was lost at sea in 1929. of the services it provides. Arts and crafts, In the 1960s social housing was built in games nights and other events for children place of the Fort. This housing will in turn In previous centuries Leith was one of and young people regularly take place here. Scotland’s major ports. There was constant be replaced by new homes designed by Malcolm Fraser Architects and parts of the www.edinburgh.gov.uk/libraries © Marc Millar/ Royal Yacht Britannia walls remain to remind us of Leith’s past. www.leiththeatretrust.org www.malcolmfraser.co.uk

22 23 24

HISTORIC LEITH 23 Norwegian Seaman’s Church Hibernian Football Club St Ninian’s Manse The Citadel

In 1863 Johan Storjohn, a divinity graduate Hibernian Football Club was formed in the A chapel to St Ninian was built by Robert After Oliver Cromwell defeated the from Bergen travelled from Norway to Cowgate area of the city in 1875, but since Bellenden, Abbot of Holyrood, in 1493. This Scottish army at Dunbar he occupied both Edinburgh to study. He found that there moving to the first Easter Road ground in was altered and extended over the years, Edinburgh and Leith. Under his Officer in was no church for the Scandinavian 1880 they have been considered very much with a large church and manse being built in Charge, General Monck, Leith was made seamen to worship in and so he set out a Leith team. the 1600s. The distinctive Dutch style steeple a free port but he used the Leith buildings to establish one. The Scottish architect was built in 1675. If you look at the building and churches to house his artillery and The club has often been leaders in the James Simpson and Johan Schroder today you will see many dates which tell the munitions and to stable his horses. field: The first British side to take part in of Copenhagen designed the church, story of its numerous extensions. the European Cup, the first with what was He needed a new fort or citadel and which was built in 1868 by the Norwegian considered to be ‘real’ floodlights, the In 1606 St Ninian’s became North Leith this was built in North Leith, on the site Seamen’s Mission. first in the entire country to feature shirt Church, but as the village of North Leith grew of the medieval chapel of St Nicholas. There is a stone in the garden called the sponsorship and the first Scottish football it became too small for the congregation. As Construction was completed by 1656 but it Vim Stone, named after a ship (sailing club to install under soil heating. a result the congregation moved to a new was never used during conflict and after the from Norway) which ran aground in 1937 church in Madeira Street in 1816. Restoration in 1660 it was used for industrial Formed in the early days to satisfy the and was letting in water. However, a purposes. Some of the first glass making needs of the poor, the involvement with the The old church was sold and for some time fragment of rock broke off and plugged factories in Leith were housed here. community still exists to this day through the was used by other religious groups and the hole in the ship, which meant that it Hibernian Community Foundation, a charity later for commercial purposes, including The Citadel gradually fell into disuse and all reached Leith safely. The rock fragment set up for the local community with a focus a warehouse. In 1997 the Cockburn that remains above ground today is the old was removed from the ship and carried to on health, fitness and wellbeing; community Conservation Trust purchased the building Eastern Port or gate which opened on to the church, where it remains in the garden football and learning and education. and it was restored for office use. what is now Dock Street. to this day. Proud of its traditional links with Leith, The building is presently occupied by Since 1989 the church has been the Hibernian has one of the best stadiums in Simpson & Brown Architects. premises of the Leith School of Art, the country, a state of the art Training Centre although it is still consecrated and used www.simpsonandbrown.co.uk and the necessary infrastructure to ensure by the Norwegian community for special future on-field success. services and events. www.hibernianfc.co.uk 27 28 www.leithschoolofart.co.uk www.hibernianinthecommunity.org.uk www.hibshistoricaltrust.org.uk 25 26

24 HISTORIC LEITH HISTORIC LEITH 25 Custom House Lamb’s House The Vaults Public Art

As a major port, Leith had a Custom House The Lamb family, very influential and rich From the Medieval period, wine was One of the most striking examples of public from a very early date. In the Middle Ages Leith merchants, are said to have entertained imported into Leith. Ships sailed from art in Leith is the mural in North Junction customs duties were either ‘petty customs’ Mary Queen of Scots on her return from Leith to Bordeaux and returned with Street, which measures around 100 feet or ‘great customs’. Petty customs went into France in 1561. However, there is no large quantities of wine for the Court, the square. A group of local people involved the Common Good funds of the Burgh – in evidence that this took place on this site. Church and the nobility. Later there was an with the Leith Local History Project supplied Leith’s case these went to the funds for extensive trade in wines from Spain and the subjects for the mural which includes Built in 1610 by Andro Lamb, a Hanseatic Edinburgh and Holyrood Abbey. Great Portugal. shipbuilding, dock life, children at play, merchant, the house is a fine example of an customs provided a major source of revenue and (a strike demonstration) the National early 17th century merchant’s house used as It was difficult to transport the wine to for the King and the Church. Officials called Hunger March of 1932. This was painted both family home and warehouse. Edinburgh for sale, as the route was a ‘customars’ were appointed to collect the by the artists Tim Chalk and Paul Grime challenging journey over about a mile King’s customs and ensure that he was In 1938 the house was saved and partly in 1986. There are also gable end murals and a half of muddy uneven track. not defrauded. From the 15th century the restored by the 4th Marquis of Bute whose in Admiralty Street, Bonnington Road and Leith merchants found ways round this Custom House was located in the King’s son gifted it to the National Trust for Scotland Halmyre Street. requirement and used the deep cellars Wark (site number 14 in this guidebook). in 1958. Following exterior restoration work, of the building known as the Vaults for Another example of public art in the area interior changes and the addition of a single A new Custom House was erected on storage of wine. is the final sculpture of Antony Gormley’s storey hall built by the Edinburgh and Leith the northern shore of the river in 1812. It work Six Times, which is located at the Old People’s Welfare Council, the building The building dates from 1682 and presently was designed by Robert Reid, one of the end of the old West End Pier (now in ruins). was officially opened by Queen Elizabeth the houses the headquarters of The Scotch architects involved with the second New The life sized sculpture looks out towards Queen Mother in 1962. Malt Whisky Society. It is Category A listed. Town of Edinburgh, and the impressive where the river course meets the sea. The coat of arms over the entrance is that of Now owned by Groves-Raines Architects, www.smws.co.uk six sculptures that make up the work were George III. it houses their offices and the Consulate of commissioned by the National Galleries of Iceland with residential accommodation on Scotland. They are positioned in various The building is presently owned by National the upper floors. locations along the Water of Leith, between Museums Scotland. Leith Docks and the National Gallery of www.grovesrainesarchitects.com Modern Art. www.nms.ac.uk 31 www.chalkworks.com 29 30 www.paulgrime.co.uk www.nationalgalleries.org

26 HISTORIC LEITH HISTORIC LEITH 27 Dr Bell’s School Leith Victoria Swim Centre Golf on the Links Drill Hall

Dr Andrew Bell was born in St Andrews in Known to generations of Leithers as The earliest mention of golf in Scotland The Drill Hall was built in 1901 as the 1753. He studied at St Andrews University ‘Vickies’, the history of the Victoria Baths dates from 1457. King James II instructed headquarters of the 7th Leith Battalion the and was ordained into the Church of can be seen on the building itself. It was that the game be ‘utterly cryt downe Royal Scots. England. He served at an Episcopal Chapel opened on 30 June 1899 by Provost and nocht usyt’ as it interfered with This building is historically connected to in Leith and then became an army chaplain Richard Mackie and was a proud lawful, patriotic and essential archery a disaster that greatly affected the Leith in India. achievement for Leith Town Council. practice. By 1505 however, James IV was community. The battalion was involved enthusiastically playing the game, as He was appointed as superintendent at The Council appointed a Baths Sub- in the Gretna Train Disaster in 1915, and there is mention of money for the king’s the Madras Male Orphanage Asylum – an Committee who met at least seven times sadly over 200 people, including many golf balls and clubs to ‘play at gowf at orphanage for soldiers’ sons. There he a year to decide on such matters as young soldiers, were killed. The bodies of Leithe’. There were many hazards as the devised a system under which some of the the appointment of a heating engineer, the victims were laid out in the Drill Hall, common ground was used for drilling older boys were given a lesson and then attendants, opening times and to make sure before the funeral procession to Rosebank soldiers, exercising horses, drying clothes, had to teach the other boys. He brought this that costs were reasonable. Cemetery on Pilrig Street. A memorial stone grazing cattle, weapons training, holding system, known as the ‘Madras System’ back stands in the cemetery and is flanked by Leith Swimming Club used the pool from fairs and breeding food rabbits, not all to Britain and by the time of his death in 1832 two panels listing the names of all those the time the baths opened and regularly simultaneously. there were around 12,000 schools using it. who died in the disaster. held galas there. The world’s first rules of golf were drawn up The building in Great Junction Street is The Drill Hall has now been converted At a time when few private homes had in 1744 to be used on Leith Links. no longer used as a school but has been into an arts and education centre and bathrooms, the Victoria also provided converted into housing on the upper A new statue of John Rattray is being is managed by Out of the Blue Arts and private plunge baths at either 6d (2.5 pence) floors and Dr Bell’s Family Centre is on commissioned by the Leith Rules Golf Education Trust. for first class or 3d (1 penny) for second the ground floor. This is a drop-in family Society. John Rattray was the first captain class. Season tickets were available for both www.outoftheblue.org.uk centre which provides a range of support of the club at the Links in 1744 and the swimming and bathing. services and facilities for local families with signatory to the first rules. It is planned that young children. There are also plans for the In more recent times the baths have been the statue be designed by renowned Fife Himalayan Centre for Arts and Culture to modernised and renamed as the Leith sculptor, David Annand. open in 2014, in the part of the building that Victoria Swim Centre. 36 www.leith-rules-golf.co.uk once housed the swimming pool. www.edinburghleisure.co.uk/venues/ www.davidannand.com www.drbells.co.uk leith-victoria-swim-centre www.himalayancentre.org

33 34 35

28 HISTORIC LEITH HISTORIC LEITH 29 Books about Leith

Campbell, Alexander – ‘The history of Leith, Mason, John ( MA, PhD, FEIS) – ‘The history from the earliest accounts to the present of Trinity House of Leith’ period with a sketch of the antiquities of the (McKenzie Vincent & Co. Ltd) 1957 town’ (William Reid and Son) 1827 Mowat, Sue – ‘The Port of Leith, Its History Dick, Iain – ‘A Wee Look at Auld Leith’ and Its People’ (Persevere Publications) 1985 (Birlinn, Limited) 2008 (ASIN B001PDQQIG) (ISBN 978-0859764032) Hutton, Guthrie – ‘Old Leith’ Mullay, Sandy – ‘The Edinburgh (Stenlake Publishing) 1995 Encyclopaedia’ (ISBN 9781872074658) (Mainstream Publishing) 1996 (ISBN 978-1851587629) Hutton, Guthrie – ‘Bygone Leith’ (Stenlake Publishing) 2004 Robertson, D.H (MD, FSA, Scot.) – (ISBN 9781840333244) ‘Sculptured stones of Leith with historical and antiquarian Notices’ Hoy, Christine – ‘A Beacon in our Town’ (William Reid and Son) 1851 (The Author) 1988 (ISBN 9780951373903) Russell, John – ‘The Story of Leith’ (T. Nelson & Sons) 1922 Irons, James – ‘Leith and its Antiquities from Earliest Times to the Close of the Nineteenth Scott, Bill – ‘The Buttercup’ Century’ (BPR Publishers) 2011 (Subscribers) 1898 (ISBN 9780956920607) (ISBN 9781845301491) Valentine, David – ‘Leith at Random’ McDougall, Iain – ‘Voices of Leith Dockers’ (Porthole Publications) 2004 (Mercat) 2001 (ISBN 9780954864200) ‘The Leith motto (ISBN 9781841830322) Valentine, David – ‘Leith Lives’ is ‘Persevere’. Marshall, James – ‘Old Leith at Leisure’ (Porthole Publications) 2007 (Edina Press) 1976 (ISBN 9780954864224) That is what Leith (ISBN 9780905695006) Wallace, Joyce – ‘Traditions of Trinity & Leith’ Marshall, James – ‘Old Leith at Work’ (Birlinn, Limited) 1997 has done over (Edina Press) 1977 (ISBN 9780859764476) (ISBN 9780905695051) the years and will Wallace, Joyce – ‘Further Traditions of Trinity Marshall, James – ‘Old Leith – The Caring & Leith’ continue to do so Community’ (Birlinn, Limited) 1990 (Edina Press) 1979 (ISBN 9780859762823) in the future’. (ISBN 9780905695099) Wiseman, RJS – ‘Edinburgh’s Trams, The Marshall, James – ‘The Church in the Midst’ Last Years: The North v.1’ (Edina Press) 1983 (Stenlake Publishing) 2005 (ISBN 0905695) (ISBN 9781840333435)

Marshall, James – ‘North Leith Parish Church, Some of these books are now out of print, but The First 500 Years’ others are available to borrow from Leith Library (Saint Andrew Press) 1993 and the Edinburgh and Scottish Collection in (ISBN 9780861531608) Central Library. Marshall, James – ‘Life and Times of Leith’ (J. Donald, 1986) www.edinburgh.gov.uk/libraries (ISBN 9780859761284) www.facebook.com/edinburghcentrallibrary

30 HISTORIC LEITH www.edinburgh.gov.uk Designed and printed by the City of Edinburgh Council. Corporate Governance 13.324/CD/SGe/March/2014. Persevere