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Usbekistan: Das Glanzvolle Stimulans

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Usbekistan: Das Glanzvolle Stimulans Anabasis Reisen Gesellschaft m.b.H Usbekistan: das glanzvolle Stimulans der Seidenstraße und die mythischen Weiten zwi- schen Kaspisee und Hindukusch, vermittelnde Schnittstelle zwischen Méditerranée, China und Indien, schillernde Welt von Zoroastriern, Buddhisten und Sufis, geschäftige Basare und mächtige Paläste, kunstsinnige Moscheen und ehrwürdige Mausoleen. 15.9. - 27.9.2021 Mittwoch, 15.9. – Donnerstag, 16.9.: Wien / Istanbul / Taschkent / Nukus 14.10-17.30 Uhr Flug mit Turkish TK 1886 von Wien nach Istanbul; 18.40-00.55 Uhr Flug mit Turkish TK 370 von Istanbul nach Taschkent; Transfer in die Stadt; Nächtigung im ****Hotel Usbekistan; auf das Frühstück folgen erste Erfahrungen mit den komplexen Botschaften Usbekistans bei einer Stadtrundfahrt, die die urbane Transformation von einem staubig-verschlafenen Karawanenplatz der Seidenstraße zum Stützpunkt des zaristischen Kolonialismus und Hotspot der Sowjetisierung Zentralasiens bis zur selbstbewussten Metropole des unabhängigen Staates Usbekistan erkennen lässt; Besuch des Museums für Angewandte und Dekorative Kunst, das mit seinen kraftvollen Suzani-Nadelarbeiten in das reiche textile Kunstschaffen Zentralasiens entführt; hierauf vermitteln der Chorsu- Basar, die Kukeldash-Moschee und die Barak-Khan Medrese Einblicke in die traditionellen Milieus in dieser Peripherie des Orients; das kontrastreiche Kaleidoskop der Stadt wird bei einer U-Bahnfahrt erlebbar, die mit ihren pittoresken Stationen das Prestigeprojekt der sowjetischen Moderne erleben lässt; Transfer zum Flughafen; 20.00-21.40 Uhr Flug mit Usbekistan Airways HY 17 von Taschkent nach Nukus; Transfer in die Stadt; Abendessen, Nächtigung ****Hotel Jipek Joli. Freitag, 17.9.: Nukus / Khiva Nach dem Frühstück kurze Rundfahrt in Nukus, der Hauptstadt der Teilrepublik Karakalpakistan; Besuch des Nukus Kunstmuseums, das mit einer spek- takulären Kuriosität überrascht: der Kollektion russischer Avantgarde-Gemälde, die der Kiewer Künstler I.W. Sawizki sammelte und die hier in reizvollem Kontrast neben Werken des sowjetischen Realismus und nomadischer Kunst präsentiert werden; auf dieses kraftvoll inspirierende Entrée folgt eine Busreise durch die Weiten der Kara Kum, die von Kanälen und Flussarmen des Amu Darja durchflossen wird, vorbei an Baumwollfeldern, die von der sowjetischen Agrarindustrie geschaffen wurden; die Bedeutung des einst mächtigen Amu Darja als Wirtschaftsweg wird bei den Ruinen der Karawansereien Tschilpik Kala, Ayaz Kala und Toprak Kala erkennbar, deren Mauern von vergessenen Routen der Seidenstraße zeugen; Abendessen, Nächtigung im ****Hotel Bek. Samstag, 18.9.: Khiva Nach dem Frühstück gilt der Tag der Altstadt von Khiva, einem faszinierenden Freilichtmuseum zentralasiatischer Oasenarchitektur, das mit seinem unver- fälschten Ambiente wie eine perfekte Filmkulisse wirkt; Spaziergang durch die Gassen des einst bedeutsamen Handelsplatzes, der mit seiner hervorragend erhaltenen Bausubstanz die jahrtausendealte Urbanität des Orients präsentiert; Besichtigung der Festung, von der die Stadt und das umgebende Land überblickt werden können, und des Khan-Palastes, dessen Ivane, in sich gekehrte Höfe und verwinkelte Räumlichkeiten ein verzauberndes Tuskulum orientalischen Müßiggangs bilden; welch große Wertschöpfung der Seidenhandel bewirkte, wird bei der mächtigen mittelalterlichen Stadtmauer ebenso erkennbar wie bei den Hans, Medresen und Moscheen, deren Fassaden und Kuppeln, Türmchen und Minarette von einem ansprechenden Mix aus sand- farbener Lehmarchitektur und leuchtenden Fayencen bestimmt sind; Besichtigung der Moschee, die den seltenen Typus einer altarabischen Pfeilerhalle bewahrt; Abendessen, Nächtigung im ****Hotel Bek. Sonntag, 19.9.: Urgench / Buchara Nach dem Frühstück Busfahrt durch die Weiten der Wüste Kara Kum nach Buchara; unterwegs Halt beim Amu Darja, dem antiken Oxus, einem der bedeu- tendsten Flüsse Zentralasiens, der von der sowjetischen Agrarindustrie für die Bewässerung riesiger Baumwollplantagen missbraucht wurde, was enorme ökologische Probleme verursacht; am Nachmittag kurzweiliger Spaziergang durch die Altstadt von Buchara, die in vielen pittoresken Details den Charakter einer alten Handels- und Oasenstadt bewahrt hat; erstes Eintauchen in den schillernden kulturellen Mix der zentralasiatischen Fernhandelsplätze beim Besuch der Medresen Ulugh Beg, Kukeldash, Mir-i Arab und Lyabi Khaus, die den starken kulturellen Atem des persischen Hochlands erkennen lassen; Abendessen, Nächtigung in den Boutique Hotels Emir und Lyabi Khaus in traditionellen Kaufmannshäusern in der Altstadt. Montag, 20.9. – Dienstag, 21.9.: Buchara / Nakschbandi Nach dem Frühstück ganztägige Besichtigungen in der Stadt des Geschäftssinns und der Wissenschaften; Besuch des imposanten Ark, der Festungsresidenz der Emire, die wie die Reste der Stadtmauern deutlich macht, dass die Kleinreiche Zentralasiens keinen Landfrieden kannten und stets von Nomaden bedroht waren; Besichtigung des Grabmals der Samaniden, eines der schönsten Kleinodien der frühislamischen Mischzivilisation, dessen komplexe Wandauflösungen von bewundernswerter Raffinesse sind; ähnliche Dekorationslust aus vorislamischer Zeit zeigt sich auch im Kaljan Minarett und in der Magog Attari Moschee, die abermals von der kulturellen Dynamik im frühislamischen Zentralasien zeugen; manierierte Raffinesse präsentiert sich auch in der Bolo Khaus Moschee, der Medrese Abdul Aziz Khan und der Moschee Chor Minor; das Chashma Ayub Mausoleum erinnert daran, dass Buchara auch eine Hochburg der Gelehrsamkeit war; bei einem Spaziergang im überkuppelten Basar der Seidenstraße wird noch ein Hauch der früheren orientalischen Geschäftstüchtigkeit spürbar, die von der Sowjetmacht ausgerottet wurde; die widersprüchliche Kodierung dieser bunten Kulturlandschaft wird in vielen Sufi-Grabmälern und Wallfahrtsorten deutlich, die sich heute wie einst reger Pilgerströme erfreuen; Besuch der Mausoleen von Sheikh Abdul-Khaliq, Abd Al Gijduvani, Muhammad Arif Ar Revgary, Hoja Mahmud Anzhir Fagnavy, Hoja Azizona Ali Romitani, al Bobo Samosi und Said Amir al Kupol, die außerhalb der Stadtmauern am Rande der Wüste geduldet wurden; sie erinnern daran, dass die islamischen Mystiker in ihre synkretistischen Lehren schamanistische und zoroastrische Traditionen integrierten, was oberflächliche Rezeptionen des Islams unter Nomaden förderte, die allerdings nicht selten im Widerspruch zur orthodoxen Rechtsgelehrsamkeit von Buchara standen; die Sufi-Spurensuche führt schließlich nach Nakschbandi, dem einflussreichsten Sufi-Zentrum in Mittelasien, Sitz des Ordens der Nakschbandi- Derwische; Besuch des Grabs des Gründers Nakschbandi, der heiligen Zypresse und anderer Kultobjekte, die von naturreligiösen Ritualen zeugen; die Sufi Diskurse münden in einem Konzert im Hof der Divan Begi Medrese, das in die literarischen Metaphern von den mythisierten Lagerfeuern der Karawansereien entführt; Abendessen, Nächtigung in den Boutique Hotels Emir und Lyabi Khaus in traditionellen Kaufmannshäusern in der Altstadt. Mittwoch, 22.9.: Buchara / Termez Nach dem Frühstück Busfahrt durch die östliche Kara Kum nach Termez, dem Tor in den Hindukusch und Pamir; nach der Ankunft in Termez Zeit zur Erholung; am Nachmittag profundes Eintauchen in das weltvergessene, einst so bedeutende graeco-baktrische und buddhistische Erbe Zentralasiens beim Besuch des Archäologischen Museums, dessen hellenistische, zoroastrische und buddhistische Artefakte und Skulpturen zeigen, dass die Landschaften zwischen Hindukusch und Kaspisee seit Alexander d.Gr. mit der Méditerranée ebenso korrespondierten wie mit Indien und China; Abendessen, Nächtigung im ****Hotel Meridian. Donnerstag, 23.9.: Termez Nach dem Frühstück gilt die Aufmerksamkeit den Bauten von Sultan Saodat, einem beachtlichen Ensemble von Khanaqas, die Sufis als Versammlungsort dienten, sowie der Moscheen und Mausoleen, die von der schiitisch-sufistischen Mischzivilisation in Zentralasien künden; Spaziergang zum Sufi-Grabmal Kokildor-Ota Khanaqa, das mit ansprechend-schlichter Lehmarchitektur beeindruckt; Fahrt zu den Ruinen von Kirk Kiz, deren Lehmmauern, Türme und Häuser an die unsicheren Zeiten erinnern; hierauf ist der Fokus auf das reiche buddhistische Erbe Zentralasiens gerichtet; Besuch des spätantiken Heiligtums Kara Tepa aus der Zeit des Ghandara-Großreichs, das aus Höhlen, Tempeln, Schreinen und Grabstätten besteht; Fahrt zum Zurmala Stupa, einem erhabenen Monument, das gleichfalls von der Blüte des Mahayana Buddhismus zwischen Hindukusch und Taklamakan zeugt; schließlich enden die Kulturwanderungen beim Sufi-Mausoleum von Hakim At Termezi, das nochmals zeigt, wie groß die Ehrfurcht vor den bescheidenen Sufi-Gelehrten war und ist; Abendessen, Nächtigung im ****Hotel Meridian. Freitag, 24.9.: Termez / Shahrisabz Nach dem Frühstück Fahrt durch Steppen und Einöden in die Gartenlandschaft von Shahrisabz; Besichtigung der Reste der Residenzstadt Timur Lenks, der im Herbst des Mittelalters ein eurasisches Großreich schuf, das sich vom Mittelmeer bis nach China erstreckte; Besichtigung der Ruinen des Palastes Ak Saray, deren gigantomanische Dimension von Timurs Macht künden und zeigen, dass Kunst dem Staat zu dienen hatte; Besichtigung der Stadtmauer, des Jahangir Mausoleums und der Gök Gumbaz Moschee, die wiederum vom energischen State Building Timurs zeugen; Abendessen, Nächtigung im ***Hotel Shahrisabz Yulduzi. Samstag, 25.9.: Shahrisabz / Samarkand Nach dem Frühstück Fahrt über die Seyrafschan Berge nach Samarkand, einst imperialer Nabel der Welt, wo jahrhundertelang
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