Wikivoyage Uzbekistan March 2016 Contents

WikiVoyage Uzbekistan March 2016 Contents

1 Uzbekistan 1 1.1 Regions ...... 1 1.2 Cities ...... 1 1.3 Other destinations ...... 1 1.4 Understand ...... 1 1.4.1 History ...... 1 1.4.2 Climate ...... 2 1.4.3 Geography ...... 2 1.4.4 Holidays ...... 2 1.5 Get in ...... 2 1.5.1 By plane ...... 3 1.5.2 By train ...... 3 1.5.3 By car ...... 3 1.5.4 From Afghanistan ...... 3 1.5.5 From Kazakhstan ...... 3 1.5.6 From Kyrgyzstan ...... 3 1.5.7 From Tajikistan ...... 3 1.5.8 By bus ...... 4 1.5.9 By boat ...... 4 1.6 Get around ...... 4 1.6.1 By train ...... 4 1.6.2 By shared taxi ...... 4 1.6.3 By bus ...... 4 1.6.4 Others ...... 4 1.6.5 By car ...... 5 1.6.6 Urban transport ...... 5 1.7 Talk ...... 5 1.8 See ...... 5 1.8.1 Architecture ...... 5 1.8.2 Nature Reserves ...... 6 1.9 Do ...... 7 1.10 Buy ...... 7

i ii CONTENTS

1.10.1 Costs ...... 7 1.10.2 Currency ...... 7 1.10.3 Bazaars ...... 8 1.11 Eat ...... 8 1.12 Drink ...... 9 1.12.1 Nightlife ...... 9 1.13 Sleep ...... 9 1.13.1 Hotels ...... 9 1.13.2 Yurt stays ...... 9 1.14 Learn ...... 9 1.15 Stay safe ...... 9 1.16 Stay healthy ...... 10 1.17 Respect ...... 10 1.18 Connect ...... 10 1.19 Further Reading ...... 11

2 Samarkand 12 2.1 Understand ...... 12 2.1.1 History ...... 12 2.2 Get in ...... 13 2.2.1 By plane ...... 13 2.2.2 By train ...... 13 2.2.3 By car ...... 13 2.3 Get around ...... 13 2.4 See ...... 13 2.5 Do ...... 16 2.6 Buy ...... 16 2.7 Eat ...... 16 2.8 Drink ...... 16 2.9 Sleep ...... 16 2.9.1 Budget ...... 16 2.9.2 Mid-range ...... 17 2.9.3 Splurge ...... 17 2.10 Connect ...... 17 2.11 Go next ...... 17

3 Ferghana Valley (Uzbekistan) 18 3.1 Cities ...... 18 3.2 Other destinations ...... 18 3.3 Understand ...... 18 3.4 Talk ...... 18 3.5 Get in ...... 18 CONTENTS iii

3.5.1 By plane ...... 18 3.5.2 By road ...... 18 3.6 Get around ...... 18 3.7 See ...... 18 3.7.1 Itineraries ...... 18 3.8 Do ...... 18 3.9 Eat ...... 18 3.10 Drink ...... 18 3.11 Stay safe ...... 19 3.12 Respect ...... 19 3.13 Go next ...... 19

4 Andijan 20 4.1 Get in ...... 20 4.1.1 By plane ...... 20 4.1.2 By bus ...... 20 4.2 Get around ...... 20 4.3 See ...... 20 4.4 Do ...... 20 4.5 Buy ...... 20 4.6 Eat ...... 20 4.7 Drink ...... 20 4.8 Sleep ...... 20 4.9 Stay safe ...... 20 4.10 Go next ...... 21

5 Chust 22 5.1 Get in ...... 22 5.2 Get around ...... 22 5.3 See ...... 22 5.4 Do ...... 22 5.5 Buy ...... 22 5.6 Eat ...... 22 5.7 Drink ...... 22 5.8 Sleep ...... 22 5.9 Connect ...... 22 5.10 Go next ...... 22

6 Ferghana 23 6.1 Understand ...... 23 6.2 Get in ...... 23 6.2.1 By plane ...... 23 iv CONTENTS

6.2.2 By train ...... 23 6.2.3 By car ...... 23 6.3 Get around ...... 23 6.4 See ...... 23 6.5 Do ...... 23 6.6 Buy ...... 23 6.7 Eat ...... 23 6.7.1 Budget ...... 23 6.7.2 Mid-range ...... 23 6.7.3 Splurge ...... 23 6.8 Drink ...... 23 6.9 Sleep ...... 23 6.9.1 Budget ...... 23 6.9.2 Mid-range ...... 23 6.9.3 Splurge ...... 23 6.10 Connect ...... 23 6.11 Stay safe ...... 23 6.12 Cope ...... 24 6.13 Go next ...... 24 6.13.1 By plane ...... 24 6.14 Headline text ...... 24

7 Kokand 25 7.1 Understand ...... 25 7.2 Get in ...... 25 7.3 Get around ...... 25 7.4 See ...... 25 7.5 Do ...... 25 7.6 Buy ...... 25 7.7 Eat ...... 26 7.8 Drink ...... 26 7.9 Sleep ...... 26 7.10 Connect ...... 26 7.11 Go next ...... 26

8 Namangan 27 8.1 Get in ...... 27 8.1.1 By plane ...... 27 8.2 Get around ...... 27 8.3 See ...... 27 8.4 Do ...... 27 8.5 Buy ...... 27 CONTENTS v

8.6 Eat ...... 27 8.7 Drink ...... 27 8.8 Sleep ...... 27 8.9 Connect ...... 27 8.10 Go next ...... 27

9 Pop 28 9.1 Get in ...... 28 9.2 Get around ...... 28 9.3 See ...... 28 9.4 Do ...... 28 9.5 Buy ...... 28 9.6 Eat ...... 28 9.7 Drink ...... 28 9.8 Sleep ...... 28 9.9 Connect ...... 28 9.10 Go next ...... 28

10 Northern Uzbekistan 29 10.1 Regions ...... 29 10.2 Cities ...... 29 10.3 Other destinations ...... 29 10.4 Understand ...... 29 10.5 Talk ...... 29 10.6 Get in ...... 29 10.7 Get around ...... 29 10.8 See ...... 29 10.8.1 Itineraries ...... 29 10.9 Do ...... 29 10.10Eat ...... 29 10.11Drink ...... 29 10.12Stay safe ...... 29 10.13Go next ...... 29

11 Ayaz-Kala 30 11.1 Understand ...... 30 11.2 Get in ...... 30 11.3 Get around ...... 30 11.4 See ...... 30 11.5 Do ...... 31 11.6 Buy ...... 31 11.7 Eat ...... 31 vi CONTENTS

11.8 Drink ...... 31 11.9 Sleep ...... 31 11.10Connect ...... 32 11.11Go next ...... 32

12 Khiva 33 12.1 Understand ...... 33 12.1.1 History ...... 33 12.1.2 Climate ...... 34 12.2 Get in ...... 34 12.2.1 By air ...... 34 12.2.2 By train ...... 34 12.2.3 By bus ...... 34 12.2.4 By car ...... 34 12.3 Get around ...... 35 12.4 Talk ...... 35 12.5 See ...... 35 12.5.1 Ichon-Qala (Itchan Kala) ...... 36 12.5.2 Dichon-Qala'(Dishan Kala) ...... 39 12.6 Do ...... 39 12.7 Buy ...... 39 12.8 Eat ...... 39 12.9 Drink ...... 39 12.10Sleep ...... 39 12.10.1 Budget ...... 39 12.10.2 Mid range ...... 40 12.10.3 Splurge ...... 40 12.11Stay safe ...... 40 12.12Connect ...... 40 12.13Go next ...... 41

13 Moynoq 42 13.1 Get in ...... 42 13.2 Get around ...... 42 13.3 See ...... 42 13.4 Do ...... 42 13.5 Buy ...... 42 13.6 Eat ...... 42 13.7 Drink ...... 42 13.8 Sleep ...... 42 13.9 Stay safe ...... 42 13.10Connect ...... 42 CONTENTS vii

13.11Go next ...... 42

14 Nukus 44 14.1 Get in ...... 44 14.1.1 By plane ...... 44 14.1.2 By rail ...... 44 14.1.3 By car ...... 44 14.2 Get around ...... 44 14.3 See ...... 44 14.4 Do ...... 45 14.5 Buy ...... 45 14.6 Eat ...... 45 14.7 Drink ...... 45 14.8 Sleep ...... 45 14.9 Taxi ...... 45 14.10Go next ...... 45 14.10.1 By plane ...... 45 14.10.2 By shared taxi ...... 45

15 Toprak-Kala 46 15.1 Understand ...... 46 15.2 Get in ...... 46 15.3 Get around ...... 46 15.4 See ...... 46 15.5 Do ...... 46 15.6 Buy ...... 46 15.7 Eat ...... 46 15.8 Drink ...... 46 15.9 Sleep ...... 46 15.10Connect ...... 46 15.11Go next ...... 46

16 Urgench 47 16.1 Get in ...... 47 16.1.1 By air ...... 47 16.1.2 By train ...... 47 16.1.3 By bus ...... 47 16.1.4 By car ...... 47 16.2 Get around ...... 47 16.3 See ...... 47 16.4 Do ...... 47 16.5 Buy ...... 47 viii CONTENTS

16.6 Eat ...... 47 16.7 Drink ...... 47 16.8 Sleep ...... 47 16.9 Connect ...... 47 16.10Go next ...... 48

17 Samarkand through Bukhara 49 17.1 Regions ...... 49 17.2 Cities ...... 49 17.3 Other destinations ...... 49 17.4 Understand ...... 49 17.5 Talk ...... 49 17.6 Get in ...... 49 17.7 Get around ...... 49 17.8 See ...... 49 17.8.1 Itineraries ...... 49 17.9 Do ...... 49 17.10Eat ...... 49 17.11Drink ...... 49 17.12Stay safe ...... 49 17.13Go next ...... 49

18 Bukhara 50 18.1 Understand ...... 50 18.1.1 History ...... 50 18.2 Get in ...... 51 18.2.1 By plane ...... 51 18.2.2 By train ...... 51 18.2.3 By bus or taxi ...... 51 18.2.4 By car ...... 52 18.3 Get around ...... 52 18.4 Talk ...... 52 18.5 See ...... 52 18.6 Do ...... 53 18.7 Buy ...... 53 18.8 Eat ...... 54 18.9 Drink ...... 54 18.10Sleep ...... 54 18.11Connect ...... 55 18.12Go next ...... 56

19 Southern Uzbekistan 57 CONTENTS ix

19.1 Regions ...... 57 19.2 Cities ...... 57 19.3 Other destinations ...... 57 19.4 Understand ...... 57 19.5 Talk ...... 57 19.6 Get in ...... 57 19.7 Get around ...... 58 19.8 See ...... 58 19.8.1 Itineraries ...... 58 19.9 Do ...... 58 19.10Eat ...... 58 19.11Drink ...... 58 19.12Stay safe ...... 58 19.13Go next ...... 58

20 Qarshi 59 20.1 Understand ...... 59 20.2 Get in ...... 59 20.3 Get around ...... 59 20.4 See ...... 59 20.4.1 Further aﬁeld ...... 60 20.5 Do ...... 60 20.6 Buy ...... 60 20.7 Eat ...... 60 20.8 Drink ...... 60 20.9 Sleep ...... 60 20.10Connect ...... 60 20.11Go next ...... 60

21 Shakhrizabz 61 21.1 Understand ...... 61 21.1.1 History ...... 61 21.2 Get in ...... 61 21.3 Get around ...... 61 21.4 See ...... 61 21.5 Do ...... 63 21.6 Buy ...... 63 21.7 Eat ...... 63 21.8 Drink ...... 63 21.9 Sleep ...... 63 21.10Connect ...... 63 21.11Go next ...... 63 x CONTENTS

22 Termez 64 22.1 Understand ...... 64 22.2 Get in ...... 64 22.2.1 By plane ...... 64 22.2.2 By train ...... 64 22.2.3 By bus ...... 64 22.3 Get around ...... 65 22.4 See ...... 65 22.4.1 Further aﬁeld ...... 65 22.5 Do ...... 66 22.6 Buy ...... 66 22.7 Eat ...... 66 22.8 Drink ...... 66 22.9 Sleep ...... 66 22.10Connect ...... 66 22.11Go next ...... 66

23 Tashkent Region 67 23.1 Regions ...... 67 23.2 Cities ...... 67 23.3 Other destinations ...... 67 23.4 Understand ...... 67 23.5 Talk ...... 67 23.6 Get in ...... 67 23.7 Get around ...... 67 23.8 See ...... 67 23.8.1 Itineraries ...... 67 23.9 Do ...... 67 23.10Eat ...... 67 23.11Drink ...... 67 23.12Stay safe ...... 67 23.13Go next ...... 67

24 Tashkent 68 24.1 Understand ...... 68 24.2 Talk ...... 68 24.3 Get in ...... 68 24.3.1 By plane ...... 68 24.3.2 By train ...... 69 24.3.3 By bus ...... 69 24.3.4 By taxi ...... 69 24.3.5 By car ...... 70 CONTENTS xi

24.4 Get around ...... 70 24.4.1 By metro ...... 70 24.4.2 By car ...... 71 24.5 See ...... 71 24.5.1 Old Town ...... 71 24.5.2 Churches ...... 72 24.5.3 Mosques ...... 72 24.5.4 Museums ...... 73 24.5.5 Others ...... 74 24.5.6 Further aﬁeld ...... 75 24.6 Do ...... 75 24.6.1 Parks ...... 76 24.6.2 Stadiums ...... 76 24.6.3 Theaters ...... 77 24.7 Buy ...... 77 24.7.1 Art galleries ...... 77 24.7.2 Banks ...... 78 24.7.3 Bazaars ...... 79 24.7.4 Broadway ...... 79 24.7.5 Department Stores, Malls ...... 79 24.7.6 Handicrafts ...... 80 24.7.7 Supermarkets ...... 80 24.8 Eat ...... 80 24.8.1 Budget ...... 80 24.8.2 Mid-range ...... 80 24.8.3 Splurge ...... 81 24.9 Drink ...... 81 24.10Sleep ...... 82 24.10.1 Budget ...... 82 24.10.2 Mid-range ...... 82 24.10.3 Splurge ...... 83 24.11Phones, Post Oﬃces ...... 84 24.12Stay safe ...... 84 24.13Cope ...... 85 24.13.1 Embassies and Consulates ...... 85 24.14Go next ...... 86 24.15Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses ...... 87 24.15.1 Text ...... 87 24.15.2 Images ...... 88 24.15.3 Content license ...... 90 Chapter 1

Uzbekistan

Uzbekistan has borders with Afghanistan, Kazakhstan, • Nukus — the capital of Qaraqalpaqstan on the Amu Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan and Turkmenistan. It is doubly Darya is the home of the avant-garde painting col- landlocked, but includes the southern shoreline of the lection of the Savitsky Gallery, and is surrounded Aral Sea. It has the largest population among all the Cen- by a region devastated by the environmental degra- tral Asian countries. dation wrought by the drying of the Aral Sea.

• Samarkand — the nation’s second largest city, the whole of which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, 1.1 Regions home to the most famous Silk Road attraction of them all, the Registan.

• Shakhrisabz — a small city, whose historical center is a UNESCO World Heritage site for its impressive monuments from the Timurid Dynasty.

• Termez — the southernmost city near the border with Afghanistan, named by Alexander the Great’s forces for the intense temperatures they found here (thermos = hot).

Several of these were once great trading cities on the Silk Road.

Uzbekistan regions - Color-coded map 1.3 Other destinations

• Aral Sea — a lesson in the perils of environmental 1.2 Cities degradation, the drying of the Aral Sea has ravaged a region roughly the size of Germany with disease, birth defects, agricultural and economic devastation, • Tashkent — the modern capital and largest city. and one-time cargo ships lying on their side in the dust. • Andijan — Uzbekistan’s fourth largest city, right in the heart of the vibrant but combustible Ferghana Valley. 1.4 Understand • Bukhara — a legendary Silk Road capital, 2,500 years old, the historical center of which is a The meaning of the name Uzbek is disputed. One version UNESCO World Heritage site ﬁlled with magniﬁ- is that it is derived from Turkish 'uz/öz' ('good' or 'true') cent examples of monumental, medieval Islamic and and 'bek' ('guardian'). Central Asian architecture.

• Khiva, site of the Itchan Kala 1.4.1 History

• Namangan — the third largest city, at the northern Uzbekistan is rich in history. Samarkand was conquered edge of the Ferghana Valley. by Alexander the Great. Islam was introduced by Arabs

1 2 CHAPTER 1. UZBEKISTAN in the 8th-9th century. The most famous leader to come 1.4.4 Holidays from Uzbekistan is Tamerlane who was born in Shahris- abz south of Samarkand. Russia conquered Uzbekistan Jan 1 New Year (Yangi Yi Bayrami) in the late 19th century. Stiff resistance to the Red Army Mar 8 International Women’s Day (Xalqaro Xotin-Qizlar after World War I was eventually suppressed and a so- Kuni) cialist republic set up in 1924. During the Soviet era, in- tensive production of “white gold” (cotton) and grain led Mar 21 Navroz (Persian New Year) (Navro'z Bayrami) to overuse of agrochemicals and the depletion of water May 9 Remembrance Day, Peace Day or Liberation Day supplies, which have left the land poisoned and the Aral (Xotira va Qadirlash Kuni), remembering that Uzbek Sea and certain rivers half dry. troops participated in the Soviet army and that 500.000 Uzbekistan gained independence in 1991, following the Uzbek soldiers were killed in World War II. break up of the Soviet Union. In theory the country is a Sep 1 Independence Day (Mustaqillik Kuni), remember- democracy, however, since 1991 it has been run by ironing the proclamation of independence from the Soviet fisted dictator Islam Karimov, whose security services are Union in 1991 widely believed to have killed several hundred protesters in Andijan in 2005 and have been responsible for some Oct 1 Teachers’ Day (O'qituvchi va Murabbiylar Kuni) severe breaches of the most basic human rights (torture Dec 8 Constitution Day (Konstitutsiya Kuni), remember- and killings). The country is wealthy in natural resources, ing the proclamation of the first constitution of indepen- yet most of the money is distributed into the president’s dent Uzbekistan in 1992. ruling elite, and much of the country still remains quite Holidays in accordance with the lunar year: the dates of poor. Little power exists outside of the presidents fam- these holidays vary according to the lunar calendar. ily or his close allies. The country remains as the most corrupt out of any former USSR state. • Kurban Kait (Qurbaon Hayit) • 1.4.2 Climate Ramadan (Ramazon Hayit), (Islamic fasting month) Mostly midlatitude desert, long, hot summers, mild winters; semiarid grassland in east. 1.5 Get in

1.4.3 Geography Visas are required for everyone apart from passport hold- ers of CIS countries. A 'Letter of Invitation' (LOI) Uzbekistan measures 1450 km West to East and 930 km is no longer required by citizens of Austria, Belgium, North to South. France, Germany, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Malaysia, Spain, Switzerland and United Kingdom, but is still required for Mostly flat-to-rolling sandy desert with dunes; broad, most others, e.g. for Canadian & US citizens under the flat intensely irrigated river valleys along course of Amu simplified visa procedure. Darya, Syr Darya (Sirdaryo) and Zarafshon; Ferghana Valley in east surrounded by mountainous Tajikistan and To apply for a visa complete the application form from Kyrgyzstan; shrinking Aral Sea in west. here, print out the resulting pdf and take to your printed form, together with some photos and a photocopy of your passport to your nearest Uzbek embassy. They will then • Syr Darya crosses the Ferghana Valley and runs on ask the MFA in Tashkent for permission to issue a visa, the North East edge of the Kizil Kum Desert. It is which takes 7-14 days. Once this permission is granted 2212 km long (3019 km including its source Naryn). you can pick up your visa. To avoid two trips to the em- In antiquity, it was called Jaxartes. Syr Darya flows bassy you can get an LOI in advance (by email) and once into the (smaller) Northern part of the Aral Sea. approval has been granted you can pick up your visa from • Amu Darya rises in the Hindukush and has a length your chosen embassy in only 1 visit - this is handy for peo- of 2540 km. It was called Oxus in antiquity. It ple travelling who want to pick up a visa 'on the go'. An can be a rapid river in spring and is called Dsai- LOI can be obtained from travel companies when a hotel hun (suffering from rabies) in Arabic. The river has booking is made. Talk to your local travel agent in your changed its course several times. Konye Urgench own country. The LOI will typically cost US$30-40 for in Turkmenistan, the capital of the old empire of a short stay. For the latest information see the website of Chwarezm, was situated on the banks of the Amu the Ministry of Foreign Affairs . Darya. Today the distance between the river and the Within 3 days of entrance to the country, you need to old city is about 40 km. Amu Darya flows into the make a registration, an official statement indicating the (bigger) Southern part of the Aral Sea. address you are staying at. If you stay at reasonable hotels, 1.5. GET IN 3

they will do it by default, however if you stay at a house, 1.5.3 By car you will face a lot of bureaucratic paperwork in order to register yourself. There are roads from surrounding countries but the borders may not be open and there have been security prob- When you enter Uzbekistan expect fairly lengthy immi- lems. There is a risk of land mines in some border areas. gration and passport procedures, but these are fairly pain- less. In particular you will be asked to declare all the money you are bringing into the country - don't worry 1.5.4 From Afghanistan about this - declare everything you have and make sure you have less money when you leave. The Uzbek govern- The Friendship Bridge, 10 km south of Termiz, links ment doesn't want precious foreign currency leaving the Afghanistan with Uzbekistan. country. Travel permits are required for the mountain areas near the border to Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, including great 1.5.5 From Kazakhstan parts of the Ugam-Chatkal National Park and Zaamin Na- tional Park. There are only two border crossings between Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan :

1.5.1 By plane • Gisht Kuprik (Chernyaevka) between Shymkent and Tashkent is the main road crossing between The main airport of Uzbekistan is the Tashkent Interna- Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan . A shared taxi or tional Airport “Yuzhniy” (IATA: TAS). The airport itself marschrutka from Kolos bus stop at Shymkent to is reasonably modern and has various international carri- the border costs about US$ 4. The trip takes about ers operating as well as the national Uzbekistan Airways. 1 hour. The border is open 7am to 9pm (Tashkent Though the airport infrastructure is good, the staﬀ is not. time). You will have to walk over the border and to Expect pointless bureaucracy and an unhelpful attitude take a taxi from the border to Tashkent, which will from most of them. Baggage claim and customs proce- cost about UZS 6000. There are reports of waiting dures can be time-consuming - allow two hours. For more times up to 5 or 6 hours at the border. information see the Taskent#By plane section. There are airports at Andijan, Bukhara, Ferghana, • There is another crossing between Beyneu in West- Karshi, Namangan, Nukus, Samarkand, Tashkent, ern Kazakhstan and Kungrad in Uzbekistan. Termez and Urgench.

1.5.6 From Kyrgyzstan 1.5.2 By train • Busses from Bishkek to Uzbekistan stop at Gisht Usable passenger services only exist to Kazakhstan and Kuprik (Chernyaevka) border. You will have to take via Kazakhstan to Russia and Ukraine. These include the a taxi from the border to Tashkent for UZS 6000. A following trains: transit visum for Kazakhstan is required.

• Tashkent - Moscow (3 times weekly): Train 6 • You can take a taxi or minibus from Jalal Abad to Uzbekistan leaves Moscow on Mon, Wed and Fri at Khanabad (20som) and walk over the border. 23:15 and arrives in Tashkent at 22:35 on Wed, Fri • and Sun. The distance from Moscow to Tashkent by You can take a taxi (50som) or minibus (5 som) rail is 3,369 km. from Osh to Dustlyk (Dostyk) and a shared taxi from there to Andijan in Uzbekistan • Tashkent - Ufa (3 times weekly) 1.5.7 From Tajikistan • Tashkent - Chelyabinsk (once weekly) It is about 55 km from Dushanbe to the border at Denau. • Tashkent - Kharkov (once weekly) Taxis depart from Zarnisar Bazaar in Dushanbe. A seat in a taxi will cost about 8TJS and the trip will take about • Tashkent - Saratov (every 4 days) 90 minutes. There are Miníbusses from the border to the town of Denau. From there you will have to take a shared • Nukus - Tashkent - Almaty (once weekly) taxi to Samarkand. There are also railway lines linking Uzbekistan to You will have to take a shared taxi from Penjikent to the Turkmenistan and Tajikistan. However, service to Tajik-Uzbek border (5 TJS, 22 km) and another one from Turkmenistan is suspended. the border to Samarkand (about 50 km). 4 CHAPTER 1. UZBEKISTAN

1.5.8 By bus • obshi vagon - don't take that one

When land borders are open, buses run to all neighbouring countries. Book your ticket well in advance (booking at the day of departure is sometimes impossible: trains can get full or computer problems can make booking impossible). If 1.5.9 By boat you go and buy the ticket yourself, you'll have to show your passporte. Some basic Russian can come in handy Apart from the southern section of the inland Aral sea, as well. Or you can book your ticket via a travel agency Uzbekistan is land-locked. In fact, it’s one of only two in Uzbekistan (e.g. advantour or sogda). doubly landlocked countries in the world - the other being Liechtenstein. 1.6.2 By shared taxi

1.6 Get around The second best option, and an experience. Don't be put off - these are pretty safe as far as the people go, the roads 1.6.1 By train are a different story - when they exist! But for getting between Nukus and Khiva, or Khiva to Urgench to Bukhara, this is the only realistic way to go. The most comfortable way to travel between the major tourist cities in Uzbekistan is by train. The main line The taxi driver will have a destination city - so at the ranks Tashkent - Samarkand - Bukhara is served once a day ask around for the city you're headed to. If you match, in each direction by two express trains named “Afrosiob” you then negotiate a rate. Ask around beforehand, you and “Sharq": The Afrosiob is a Talgo-250-type train that can quite easily get ripped off, because each passenger makes a respective distance in 2.5 hours to Samarkand negotiates separately with the driver, so he can charge lo- and the “Sharq” makes the 600-km-journey Tashkent cals normal rates and take you for all you have. - Bukhara (with intermediate stop in Samarkand) in Once you've done that, you wait. The car only leaves less than 7 hours. A daily overnight train to and from when full, or when the driver gets bored enough. If pos- Tashkent to Bukhara offers the possibility to travel dur- sible, get thr front passenger seat - 'only a lemon takes ing the night and win one day. Comfortable sleeping cars the middle seat'. Don't be polite about this - you do NOT allow a good sleep. want that middle seat. When it’s 50C+ in the middle of From Tashkent (Timetable from summer 2014) the desert, with no airconditioning (you pay extra for a car with that), you want to be as close to a window as To Tashkent (Timetable from summer 2014) possible, and with only one person sweating against you! Unlike to ordinary local trains the express trains have Also, the roads are slow and sometimes barely existent - three classes: The economy class (2nd) with 36 persons dirt tracks with potholes. It takes 6-8 hours from Urgench per carriage and still plenty of space and comfort, the to Bukhara if you're lucky. Still, the car will probably business class (1st) and the VIP class (expect some free make it - when you do this section you'll understand why drinks and snacks). The Afrosiob is the fastest and most you don't want to risk the bus. expensive train which costs from Tashkent to Samarkand for 2nd/1st/VIP 51,000/68,000/98,000 soms. Doing the same trip with the Sharq will save you around 22,000 soms ($7) in each class, but increases the travel time for 1.6.3 By bus almost 1.30h. Overnight trains also run from Tashkent and Samarkand Bus travel is only for the truly adventurous and not for to Urgench (3 times weekly) and to Nukus - Kungrad anyone in a hurry in Uzbekistan. Except for special tours, (2 times weekly), so it’s also possible to travel to Khiva buses are old, decrepit, crowded, painfully slow and prone (30 kilometers from Urgench, taxi/bus available) or to the to frequent breakdowns. If you do travel any distance on Aral lake (Moynaq, 70 km from Kungrad) by train. On a bus in Uzbekistan, take toilet paper with you and be thursdays, there is an overnight train in Urgench that also careful what you eat at stops along the way. stops in Bukhara. There are four types of sleepers: 1.6.4 Others • miagki vagon (soft wagon) - 2 berth compartments You can travel by private taxi, minibus, or normal bus. • kupeiny vagon - 4 berth compartments While there are official taxis, most cars will become taxis if you wave them down. Meters are rare, so negotiate the • platskartny vagon - benches in a large car price beforehand. 1.8. SEE 5

1.6.5 By car own language, which is related to Kazakh. Many Karal- kalpaks also speak Russian. Drive on the right. International driving permit required. In the cities, more and more people speak English, es- Minimum age: 17. Speed limit: 60 to 80 km/h in urban pecially those in the hotel and catering trades. However, areas, 90 km/h on highways. English is still generally not widely spoken, so if you can- There are several paved highways with two lanes in not speak Uzbek, Russian would be your best bet. Uzbekistan:

• AH5 from Gishtkuprik/Chernyavka on the border 1.8 See to Kazakhstan via Tashkent, Syrdaria, Samarkand, Navoi and Bukhara to Alat on the border to Turkmenistan (680 km), 1.8.1 Architecture

• AH7 from the border to Kyrgysztan via Andijon, Uzbekistan has preserved a rich architectural heritage. Tashkent and Syrdaria to Xovos/Khavast on the bor- The construction of monumental buildings was seen as der to Tajikistan (530 km), a matter of prestige, emphasizing the power of the ruling dynasty, leading families and higher clergy. The exter- • AH62 from Gishtkuprik/Chernyavka on the border nal appearance of towns was determined to a great extent to Kazakhstan via Tashkent, Syrdaria, Samarkand by their fortifications. The walls were flanked at regu- and Guzar to Termez on the border to Afghanistan lar intervals by semicircular towers and the entrances to (380 km), towns were marked by darwazas (gates). These gates usually had a high vault and a gallery for lookout and were • AH63 from Oazis on the border to Kazakhstan flanked by two mighty towers. The doors were closed at in the North West of Uzbekistan via Nukus and night and in case of danger. Along the main streets were Bukhara to Guzar (950 km paved road, 240 km un- rows of shops, specialized in different goods, and many paved) skilled craftsmen had their workshops in these stalls. The • AH65 from Uzun on the border to Tajikistan to most important covered markets are called tag, tim or Termez on the border to Afghanistan (180 km) bazaars (shopping passages( and charsu (crossroads, literally “four directions”). In big cities the ark (fortress) was the administrative center. It contained the emir’s 1.6.6 Urban transport palace, chancellery, treausry, arsenal and the jail for high- ranking prisoners. The towns also had large public cen- During the day the metro (underground train) is the good tres, consisting of a maydan (open square) surrounded by option. After 12 midnight you are recommended to use large buildings for civil or religious purposes. taxi services. It is better to call the taxi (car-service) to pick you up in advance. Some car-services can serve the Religious buildings foreign speaking tourists. You can get more information in the hotel. • The Friday Mosque (Masjid Al Jumu'ah) is located in the town. It had a spacious courtyard with a surrounding gallery and a maqsura (screened-off 1.7 Talk enclosure) in the main axis. A typical example is the Kalan Mosque at Bukhara. The sole official language of Uzbekistan is Uzbek. The majority of citizens are ethnic Uzbeks and speak it as • The Oratory Mosque (Namazgah) is situated out- their first language, though due to its history as part of side of the town. Prayers at two important Muslim the Soviet Union, many also speak Russian, which con- festivals were conducted in public. The worshippers tinues to be a compulsory second language in all schools. gathered in an open space in front of the building There are also significant numbers of ethnic Tajiks and where the minbar (imam’s pulpit) stood. Kazakhs in Uzbekistan, primarily speaking their native • tongue as a first language. In Samarkand and Bukhara, The Neighbourhood Mosque was smaller in size for instance, one is just as likely to hear Tajik being spo- and consisted of a covered hall with the mihrab and ken as Uzbek. Russian is widely spoken especially in the an exterior gallery with columns. They were built cities. In Tashkent the majority of the population speak from donations of the inhabitants of the neighbour- Russian and one is just as likely to hear it being spoken hood and are often richly decorated. An example of on the street as Uzbek. this type is the Baland (Boland) Mosque at Bukhara. In the semi-autonomous region of Karalkalpakstan in • The Madrasa is an institition for higher educa- western Uzbekistan, the ethnic Karalkalpaks speak their tion of ulama (Islamic scholars). The madrasa has 6 CHAPTER 1. UZBEKISTAN

a courtyard with two or four aywand (arched por- ing arches. Shops and workshops around the central tals) on the axes which were used as classrooms in space are toppes by small domes. the summer, a row of cells on one or two floors, • darsakhanas (lecture rooms) in two or four corners Caravanserais played an important role along the and a mosque for daily prayer. The main facade has trade routes. According to the traditional plan a car- a high portal with two or four minaret-like towers avanserai is a rectangular building with a large court- at the corners of the building. Madrasas from the yard, galleries for animals and baggage, lodgings for 16th and 17th cent. which have been preserved are the travellers and a mosque. The outer walls were Madar-Khan, Abdullah Khan, Kukeldash, Nadir Di- high and thick, the entrance was well guarded and at van Begi and Abdul Aziz Khan at Bukhara, Shir-Dor the corners there were towers for defense. The best and Tilla-Kari at Samarkand, Kukeldash and Baraq exampla is at Rabat al-Malik. A small number of Khan in Tashkent, Said Ataliq at Denau and Mir Ra- caravanserais have survived, party in ruins, e.g. the jab Dotha at Kanibadam. Madrasas built in the 18th caravanserai near the Qaraul Bazar on the road from and 19th cent. include Narbuta Bi at Kokand, Qut- Bukhara to Karshi, the Abdullah Khan caravanserai lugh Murad Inaq, Khojamberdybii, Khoja Mohar- on the road from Karshi to Termez. ram, Musa Tura and Allah-Quili Khan in Khiva. • Bathhouses from the 16th and 17th cent. have been • The Khanaqah was originally a guest house for preserved at Samarkand, Sahrh-i Sabz, Bukhara and travelling Sufis near the residence of their pir (spir- Tashkent. They are heated by a system of chan- itual masters). Under the Timurids they became nels under the floor, distributing the heat uniformly meeting places of the followers of a Sufi order, at- through the whole building. Some of them have tended by representatives of the ruling elite and of- rooms for disrobing, hot and cold rooms, a massage ten a zikr-khana (room for exposition and Sufi rites) room or a water closet. Bathhouses are covered with was added. Examples of khanaqas from the 16th domes which give them their characteristic external and 17th cent include Zaynuddin, Fayzabad, Ba- appearance. haudin and Nadi Divan-Begi at Bukhara, Mulla Mir near Ramitan, Qasim Shaiykh at Karmana and Imam Architectural Ensembles Bahra near Khatirchi. • The Pay-i Kalan (Pedestal of the Great at • Memorial buildings were erected in the 14th and Bukhara, 15th cent for Temur and his family, e.g. Gur- Emir and Shah-i Zinda at Samarkand and at Shakriz- • The Kosh Madrasa at Bukhara, abs. In the 16th and 17th cent. fewer mausoleums were built. An example from this period is the • The Lab-i Hauz at Bukhara, Qafal Shashi Mausoleum in Tashkent. Monumen- tal buildings were often erected near holy tombs. At • The Registan at Samarkand Bukhara a monumental kanaqah was built near the • The Char-Bakr Complex at Sumitan, outside of founder of the Naqshbandi order, Bahauddein and Bukhara at Char Bakr, the family necropolis of the powerful Juybari shaykhs. From the 16th cent. onwards mauseoleums for rulers were no longer built. The 1.8.2 Nature Reserves rulers were interred in madrasas, the Shaybanids of Samarkand in the Abu Said Mausoleum on the Reg- • Jeyran Ecological Centre (40 km from Bukhara). istan, Ubaydullah Khan from Bukhara in the Mir-i The jeyran (Central Asian gazelle) was hunted in the Arab Madrasa and Abdul Aziz Khan in the Abdul last century by men in jeeps and helicopters. Today, Aziz Madrasa. the Uzbekistan jeyran is included in the Red Book of Endangered Species). The Jeyran ecological centre was founded about 1985 and is the only one of its Civic architecture kind in Central Asia. At the beginning 42 jeyrans were brought here, but today 700 unique animals • Market buildings (Charsu, Tim, Taq) form the live here in a fenced area of 5000 hectares. Besides very heart of an oriental town. The charsu is a build- jeyrans, Prezhevalskiy horses and koulans are bred ing covered by a central dome, standing at the cross- in the reserve. roads, surrounded by shops and workshops covered by small domes. The tim is a trading passage and the • Kitab State Geological Reserve. taq a domed building on a smaller scale built at the intersection of major streets. At Bukhara the Taq-i • Kyzylkum Tugai and Sand Reserve (in the north- Zargaran (Goldsmiths’ Dome) has an octagonal cen- west of Bukhara Province). The reserve was founded tral space covered by a dome set on 32 intersect- in 1971. It covers the flood-lands of the Amu Darya 1.9. DO 7

river and the sand-dune desert near-by. The river- 1.9 Do side vegetation occupies an area of 3177 hectares and the sand area is 2544 hectares. The best time • Camel trekking (in the yurt camps at Lake Aidarkul to visit the reserve is spring. According to ornithol- or Ayaz-Quala). ogists there are 190 species of birds in the reserve, • including herons, river terns, wild ducks, sandpipers Bird watching. NS turtle-doves. The reserve has a lush ﬂora of • Trekking (in the Ugam Chatkal National Park). poplars, silver oleasters and riverside willows. Deer, wild boars, wolves, jackals, foxes, hares and reed • Rafting (in the Chatkal or Syr-Darya Rivers). cats live on the tugai woods and zhe population of • Skiing. jeyrans is being restored.

• Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biospheric Reserve. The 1.10 Buy Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biospheric Reserve is being implemented by the government of Uzbekistan, Global Ecology Fund and UN Development Program and co-financed by German Union of Nature Protection. The reserve lies between the desert and mountain systems of Central Asia. It consists of the southern part of the Kyzylkum Desert, lakes Aydarkul and Tuzgan and the mountain ridges of Nuratau and Koitash. The existing Nurata Reserve and Arnasay Ornithological Reserve on Lake Tuzgan will be inte- grated into the new Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biospheric Reserve. Among the animals integtrated in the Red Book of Endagered Species are the Severtsev ram or Kyzylkum ram, golden eagle, bearded and The obverse of a UZS5000 banknote issued in 2013 shows the National Assembly building. black griffon-vulture. In the reserve are rare sorts of walnut-trees, Central Asian juniper, Bukhara almond-trees, pistachio-trees, wild vines, apricot- trees, apple-trees and various sorts of dog-roses. 1.10.1 Costs Nuratau-Kyzylkum Biospheric Reserve will be included in the UNESCO global list of biosphere re- Uzbekistan is cheaper than the neighbouring Kazakhstan, serves. The experiences will be used in founding but probably a little more expensive than Kyrgyzstan or biosphere reserves in the Central Kyzylkum Desert, Tajikistan. A street snack costs about USD0.80. A com- Southern Ustyurt Desert and the tugai woods of the fortable double room is USD40. river Amu Darya. 1.10.2 Currency • Ugam-Chatkal National Park (in the spurs of the Western Tien Shan, about 80 km from Tashkent). The Uzbekistani so‘m (сўм in Cyrillic script and symbol- Ugam-Chatkal National Park is one of the oldest ised as UZS) had an official exchange rate of USD1 = nature reserves in Uzbekistan, founded in 1947. UZS2,358 in October 2014. The Western Tien Shan is the natural habitat to 44 species of mammals, 230 species of birds and 1168 However, Uzbekistan finds itself in the curious situation species of plants including several endemic plants. of having a huge trade surplus (from its energy exports) In the National Park live white-claw bears, wolves, but also having a parallel black market exchange rate. As Tien Shan foxes, red marmots, stone-martens, of Aug 2015 the black market exchange rate was around Turkestan lynx, snow leopards, wild boars, badgers, 4,500, making it worth the effort to avoid official ex- Siberian roes, mountain goast and Tien Shan wild change offices. The UZS1,000 notes are the most popu- rams as well as wild turkeys, mountain partridges, lar; hence, you will be carrying around bricks of currency, golden eagles, bearded and eagle vultures. The so ask for the UZS5,000 notes, which are easily available slopes of the Pskem ridge are covered with walnut- on request. The US dollar was definitely the foreign cur- trees, wild fruit trees and wild bushes. The banks rency of choice, but nowadays the euro is also accepted of the river are occupied by archa (Central Asian everywhere. The best place for exchange in Tashkent is juniper). The Chimgan-Charvak-Beldersay Resort Chorsu Bazaar, although currency exchange can be easily Zone, covering an area 100,000 hectares, has three done at other places as well. health-recreation complexes: 'Charvak', 'Chimgan' ATMs do work with foreign cards, but operate at the of- and 'Beldersay'. ficial exchange rate, and are usually empty. Hence it’s 8 CHAPTER 1. UZBEKISTAN better to prepare sufficient dollars to avoid such a situa- mutton, and you will eat it if you go to Uzbekistan. tion. Some cash machines do dispense US dollars - how- Each region has its own way of cooking plov, so you ever, be careful of withdrawing a large number of dollars should taste it in different places. According to the and then leaving Uzbekistan with more money than you legend plov was invented by the cooks of Alexander declared when you entered. the Great. Plov can also be made with peas, carrots, raisins, dried apricots, pumpkins or quinces. Often spices as peppers, crushed or dried tomatoes 1.10.3 Bazaars are added.

In Uzbekistan people traditionally buy goods at bazaars. • Chuchvara - similar to ravioli and stuffed with mut- Prices are fixed in department stores only. In bazaars, ton and onions (aka 'pelmeni' in Russian). private shops and private souvenir stores haggling is part of the game. Bazaars are the best place to observe the daily life of the locals. The Alayski Bazaar is one of the • Manti - lamb and onion filled dumpling-like food, oldest and most famous bazaars of Central Asia. You will often with onions, peppers and mutton fat. find beautiful rugs, silk, spices, handicrafts and traditional clothes in the Eski Djouva and Chor Su bazaars in the Old • Somsas, which are pastry pockets filled with beef, City of Tashkent. mutton, pumpkin or potatoes. In spring time “green Typical souvenirs are: somsas” are made from so-called “yalpiz” a kind of grass which grows in the mountains and in rural parts of regions. And the amazing thing is people just • babaichik, figurines, pick them up for free and make tasty somsas. You • tubeteika, traditional Uzbek caps and can find somsas being cooked and sold on the streets. • Shiljait, Shilajit means “Conqueror of mountains • Lagman - thick soup with meat, potatoes, spices, and destroyer of weakness”. It is used in Ayurvedic vegetables and pasta. By right, it should include 50 medicine as an herbal rejuvenator, nerve tonic and ingredients. Often carrot, red beet, cabbage, radish, natural stimulator. garlic, tomatoes, peppers and onions are added. The noodles should be very thin.

1.11 Eat • Shashlik - grilled meat. Usually served only with onions. Veal or mutton is marinated in salt, pep- When you go to restaurants, always ask for menu or pers and vinegar and eight to ten pieces of meat are price if they do not provide one. While some of the grilled on a spit over the open ﬁre. well-established restaurants are surprisingly good value by Western standard, some of the random or less popular • Bread - Uzbeks eat lots of bread (in uzbek its called restaurants try to take advantage of tourists by ripping oﬀ non). Round bread is called lepioshka. You can buy up to 5 times of normal price. it anywhere, while in the bazar it costs around 400 sum. Samarkand is very famous for the bread. The characteristic Samarkand bread obi-non is traditionally baked in clay furnaces. Bread is served to every meal.

• Mastava. rice soup with pieces of onion, carrots, tomatoes, peas and eventually wild plums

• Shurpa. soup of mutton (sometimes beef), vegetables

• Bechbarmak. a speciality of the nomad Kazakhs, boiled meat of sheep or ox and pieces of liver, served with onions, potatoes and noodles

Plov Being an historic crossroads and part of numerous em- pires, Uzbek food is very eclectic in its origins. In- • Osh (also known as plov, palov or pilaf) is the dian, Iranian, Arab, Russian, and Chinese inﬂuences are national dish. It’s made of rice, carrots, onions, and present in this unique cuisine. 1.13. SLEEP 9

1.12 Drink 1.13 Sleep

There are two national drinks of Uzbekistan: tea and 1.13.1 Hotels vodka (result of more than a century of Russian domi- nation of the land). There are many hotels in the country. In Tashkent there are various types of hotels you can stay, it can cost you • Tea is served virtually everywhere: home, office, US$60 and more depending on how much you're willing cafes, etc. Uzbek people drink black tea in winter to pay for your pleasure in hotel. and green tea in summer, instead of water. If tea is served in the traditional manner, the server will pour tea into a cup from the teapot and then pour the tea 1.13.2 Yurt stays back into the teapot. This action is repeated three times. These repetitions symbolize loy (clay) which • Nurata Yurt Camp, about 500 km (7 hours drive) seals thirst, moy (grease) which isolates from the from Tashkent, 250 km /3 hours drive) from cold and the danger and tchai (tea or water) which Samarkand and Buchara, near Aydakul Lake, US$ extinguishes the fire. If you are being served tea in 60 per person incl. full board and camel trip. The an Uzbek home, the host will attempt at all times to Yurts can accommodate 8 to 10 people. make sure your cup is never filled. If the host fills your cup, it probably means that it is time for you to • Ayaz Kala Yurt Camp, about 100 km from Khiva, leave, but this occurs really rarely, because Uzbeks 70 km from Urgench, 450 km from Buchara and are very hospitable. The left hand is considered im- 150 km from Nukus. phone 2210770, 2210707, pure. The tea and the cups are given and taken by 3505909, fax 53243-61. Access from Khiva and the right hand. Urgench is via a pontoon bridge over the Amu Darya River. The yurts are on a hill about 30 meters high, A mind-numbing variety of brands of wine and vodka near the archaeological site of Ayaz Kala. The an- are available almost everywhere. cient fortresses of Ayaz Kala are nearby. US$ 60 per person incl. three meals. The yurts can accom- • Wine produced in Uzbekistan has won numerous modate 20 to 25 persons. international prestigious awards for a high quality. There’s nothing to wonder about, since sun in this • Aydar Yurt Camp, in the Navoi region in the center country shines almost every day. Although Uzbek- of the Kyzyl Kum desert, 10 km from Lake Aydar istan is predominately Muslim, for the most part the Kul. The Aydar Yurt Camp is famous for camel sa- Islam practiced there tends to be more cultural than faris. religious. • Beer is available in every shop and is treated as soft drink and does not require any license to sell. There 1.14 Learn are special licensed shops selling Vodka, Wine and other Drinks. Russian made vodka is available in 1.15 Stay safe only few shops.

• Kumis is an alcoholic mares’ milk. The areas of Uzbekistan bordering Afghanistan should be avoided for all but essential travel. Extreme caution Visitors should consider tap water to be unsafe to drink in should also be exercised in areas of the Ferghana Valley regions, while in capital of Uzbekistan the water is safe for bordering Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. There have been a drinking. In any case drinking bottled water is advised. number of security incidents in this region, as well as several exchanges of gunfire across the Uzbek/Kyrgyz bor- 1.12.1 Nightlife der. Some border areas are also mined. Travellers should therefore avoid these areas and cross only at authorized In Tashkent there are various night (dance) clubs and border crossing points. restaurants. They usually work till late night/early morn- For the most part, Uzbekistan is generally safe for vis- ing. Take enough cash because drinks and snacks are itors, perhaps the by-product of a police state. There much more expensive than in daytime restaurants. Also are many anecdotal (and a significant number of doc- you can find overnight Uzbek “chill-out” restaurants umented) reports of an increase in street crime, espe- where you enjoy traditional food laying on large wooden cially in the larger towns, particularly Tashkent. This in- sofas (tapchans/suri). It is not recommended to hang out cludes an increase in violent crime. Information on crime on the street or parks after 11PM Even if you do not face is largely available only through word of mouth - both problems with criminals you definitely attract unwanted among locals and through the expat community - as the interest of local police(militsiya) patrolling the area. state-controlled press rarely, if ever, reports street crime. 10 CHAPTER 1. UZBEKISTAN

As economic conditions in Uzbekistan continue to dete- English or French (occasionally other languages, but usu- riorate, street crime is increasing. ally English) and to make a few dollars/euros. If you are Normal precautions should be taken, as one would in vir- approached by a clean-cut person offering such services, tually any country. Especially in the cities (few travellers and you are interested, question them about their back- will spend much time overnight in the small villages), be ground, what they are proposing to do for you and how careful after dark, avoid unlighted areas, and don't walk much they want to charge you (anywhere between $10- alone. Even during the day, refrain from openly showing $25 a day is realistic depending on their services and how significant amounts of cash. Men should keep wallets in long they spend with you). Most of the legitimate offers will be from young people who have studied in the West a front pocket and women should keep purses in front of them with a strap around an arm. Avoid wearing flashy on exchange programs and/or studied at the University of World Diplomacy and/or Languages in Tashkent. If ev- or valuable jewellery which can easily be snatched. erything seems to fit, their language skills are good and Scams are not unheard of. One of the most common (and they seem eager and polite, but not pushy, you may want one that is not limited to Uzbekistan) involves a stranger to consider this. They should offer to show you muse- coming up to the victim and saying they have found cash ums, historical sites, cafés, bazaars, cultural advice, gen- lying on the street. They will then try to enlist you in erally how to get around, etc. They should ask you what a complicated scheme that will result in you “splitting” you want to see and/or do. Often this works out well. the cash - of course only after you have put up some of However, for your and their protection, do not attempt to your own. The entire scenario is ludicrous, but appar- engage in political discussions of any type. ently enough greedy foreigners fall for it that it continues. If someone comes up to you with the “found cash” rou- Again, if they are proposing “night life” (or related) ser- tine, tell them straight away that you are not interested (in vices, do NOT take up their offers. whatever language you choose) and walk away. Due to sliding relationships between the USA and Uzbek- Also beware of locals you don't know who offer to show istan over the past years the US State Department has strongly discouraged travel to Uzbekistan by American you the “night life.” This should be completely avoided, though some visitors seem to leave their common sense citizens. at home. While all of these precautions should be observed during travel virtually anywhere in the world, for some reason 1.16 Stay healthy many tourists in Uzbekistan seem to lower their guard. They should not. Uzbekistan has not implemented a no-smoking policy in bars and restaurants, unlike many Western countries. It is also possible that you will be asked by police (Mil- Consequently, enclosed spaces can be very unpleasant for itsiya) for documents. This doesn't happen often, but it non-smokers, especially in the cold weather. can, and they have a legal right to do so. By law, you should carry your passport and visa with you in Uzbek- Fruits and vegetables should be peeled before consump- istan, though in practice, it is better to make a color scan tion. Avoid drinking Uzbek (locally produced) vodka. of the first two pages of your passport and your Uzbek Most Uzbek Vodkas are not good even dangerous to your visa before you arrive. Carry the colour copies with you health. when you're walking around, and keep the original documents in the hotel safe. The scanned documents will almost always suffice. If not, make it clear to the Mil- 1.17 Respect itsiya officer that he will have to come to your hotel to see the originals. Unless they have something out of the norm in mind (such as a bribe) they will almost always In Uzbekistan, and in Central Asia in general, elderly peo- give you a big smile and tell you to go along. Always be ple are greatly respected. Always treat the elderly with polite with the Militsiya, but also be firm. While almost great respect and be deferent to them in all situations. all of them take bribes, they take them from locals. For Also be polite with females. Traditionally it is not wel- the most part, they understand that going too far with a comed to flirt openly with women. If you are a male and foreigner will only cause them problems, especially if the there is an option to address a male with the question in- foreigner is neither being abusive nor quaking with fear. stead of female, choose it. One note about locals offering to show you around: It is common for younger Uzbeks (usually male) who speak English to try and “meet” foreigners at local hotels and of- 1.18 Connect fer to serve as interpretors and guides. This is done in day- light and in the open, often in or near some of the smaller Mobile connection works in most parts of Uzbekistan and but better hotels. This can be rewarding for both the local the services are cheap. There are several popular mobile and the visitor. The local is usually trying to improve their service providers in Uzbekistan - Ucell , Beeline, MTS 1.19. FURTHER READING 11

(MTC in Cyrillic), Perfectum Mobile. A foreigner can get a SIM card after showing his passport. For activat- ing the cell phone connection a person has to be registered. Generally some vendors are not aware of the law and refuse to sell to foreigners. You can ﬁnd Internet cafés in most of the cities. Speeds can sometimes be fast but generally speed is relatively slow.

1.19 Further Reading

Colin Thubron, The Lost Heart of Asia, 1994, Penguin Chapter 2

Samarkand

Samarkand or Samarqand is perhaps the most famous border in Tajikistan. At Samarqand, the major source of city of modern Uzbekistan. The city center is a UNESCO evidence for this period is the aristocratic residence with World Heritage Site. the famous wall paintings which were commissioned for a reception hall ca. 660AD, probably by King Varkhuman.

2.1 Understand Islamic period

The name Samarkand is derived from Old Persian asmara (“stone, rock”) and from Sogdian qand (“fort”, “town”). Samarkand literally means “stone fort” or “rock town.” Samarkand had a central position on the Silk Road between China and the West. In the 14th cent. Temur (Tamerlane) made Samarkand the capital of his empire. Samarkand is a must see for all travellers visiting Central Asia. It was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2001 as Samarkand - Crossroad of Cultures.

2.1.1 History

Pre-Islamic Bibi-Khanum Mosque

The site of Samarkand was sporadically occupied in the In the early 8th century AD, Samarkand was conquered Bronze and Early Iron Ages. A city was founded in pre- by the Arabs and soon became an important center of Achaemenid times, between 650 and 550BC. A wall fol- Muslim culture. Excavations beneath the mosque show lowed the whole circuit of the plateau (5.5 km), comple- a rapid succession of monumental buildings. A massive mented by another one which separates the town from enclosure, perhaps the temenos of the pre-Islamic tem- the acropolis, situated in the northern part and itself in- ple mentioned in the sources, was razed some time after cluding a citadel raised on an artificial platform. The the Arab conquest of 712. The site was occupied by a massive wall, 7m thick, was made of coarse mud bricks, large palace (ca 115 x 84 m), which was according to nu- all of which bear a mark, an indication that labour was mismatic evidence built in the 740s by the last Umayyad strictly organized in groups of workers. Similar building governor Nasar b. Sayyar. Between 765 and 780 the Fri- techniques have been noticed at other Sogdian and pre- day mosque was first built on a square plan, which prob- Sogdian sites during that pre-Achaemenid period. ably at the beginning of the Samanid period, ca. 820-30 The city was conquered by Alexander the Great in 329 was enlarged and the remaining parts of the palace were BC. It was named Maracanda by the Greeks. Two phases levelled. of Greek occupation can be distinguished, the first last- It subsequently grew as a trade center on the Silk Road, ing from Alexander to the second half of the 3rd century the great trading route between China and the Mediter- BC and a second period of reconquest under the Greco- ranean region. Bactrian king Eucratides (171-145 BC). The pottery dif- In 1220 Samarkand was almost completely destroyed by fers markedly between these two phases. the Mongol ruler Genghis Khan. It flourished again The pre-Islamic Sogdian civilization is best documented when Timur-i-Leng (known as Tamerlane in the West) from excavations at Panjikent, which was the capital at made it the capital of his empire in 1369. As his capi- that time; the town is near Samarkand but now across a tal Timur put Samarkand on the world map and much of

12 2.3. GET AROUND 13

the architecture visible today was built by him or his de- 2.3 Get around scendants. The empire declined in the 15th century, and nomadic Uzbeks (Shaybanids) took Samarkand in 1500. In 1784 the emirate of Bukhara conquered it. The city 2.4 See was taken by Russia in 1868 and once again began to assume importance. From 1924 to 1930, Samarqand was the capital of the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic (SSR).

2.2 Get in

2.2.1 By plane

The Samarkand International Airport (IATA:SKD). has daily ﬂights to Tashkent ($21) except on Mondays or Fridays. Other destinations are Moscow, Saint Petersburg and Kazan all with Uzbekistan Airways. Domestic tickets can only be bought at the airport in US$. Enjoying the view of Registan, Samarkand

2.2.2 By train

The Samarkand Railway Station (Вокзал Самарканд). is 5km northwest of Navoi Park. Take bus 22 or marshrutka 3,27,35 or 72 that says Вокзал from Registan stop. for 1,000 som. A taxi from the city centre is about 5,000 som. Train tickets for all routes in Uzbekistan can be also bought at the brand new Ticket Oﬃce. in new town. Trains get very crowed so it is advisable to book a few days ahead. There are a few daily trains to and from Tashkent. Be- sides the slow local trains there is the super fast Afrosiob and the still fast Sharq train that continues to Bukhara. For Khiva take the night trains to Urgench and hop on a marshrutka or shared taxi. For departure times see the Gur-Emir Uzbekistan#Get around section. The most popular international route is from Saint Pe- • Registan Ensemble. 9AM-8PM Apr-Oct. Regis- tersburg (93 h) via Volgograd (57 h) departing every Fri- tan became the city square when the life in Afrosiab day at 7:30AM arriving ﬁve nights later at 6:26AM. This stopped. Since that time Registan was reconstructed train bypasses Moscow, nearest stop is in the town of several times. Today it is surrounded by the three Ozherelye. There is also a weekly connection from Alma- medreses Ulugbek, Shirdor and Tilla Kari. 16,400 Ata departing every Sunday at 3:50PM arriving 7:59AM som. two nights later.

Shirdor Madrasah (on Registan, opposite 2.2.3 By car Ulugbek medrese). Medrese Shirdor re- peats the facade and composition of Ulugbek medrese opposite. In Shirdor medrese the ﬁrst Samarkand is about 4 hours by road from Tashkent; ﬂoor is preserved, whereas it is destroyed in shared taxis leave from Sobir Rahimov bus station. Ulugbek medrese. The decorations of entrance The distance to Samarkand from Tashkent is 290 km, portal are illustrating the tiger (“shir” that’s why from Bokhara 270 km, from Khiva 740 km, from it is called Shirdor. Ornaments and decora- Andizhan 610 km, from Fergana 600 km, from Karshi tions are very rich, but its quality is worse than 150 km, from Kokand 500 km, from Nukus 820 km, of Ulugbek medrese. Shirdor medrese was from Shahrisabz 90 km, from Termez 380 km and from erected by order of Uzbek feudal lord Yalang- Urgench 700 km. tush in 1619-1632. Inscriptions of medrese 14 CHAPTER 2. SAMARKAND

show the names of the masters Abdaldjabbar Prophet the most. (Hadrat Hissam Ibne Abbass or and Muhammad-Abbas. Kissam Ibne Abbass) 7,000 som.

Ulugbek Madrasah (on the western side of • Afrosiab, Tashkent kochasi (on an irrigated valley Registan Square). The oldest medrese on Reg- of the Zerafshan River, a few hundred meters from istan is a large rectangular building with mon- the center of the city). The ruined site of ancient umental portal and a yard with four-verandahs, and medieval Samarqand in the northern part of the surrounded by cells for students and with four modern town. This place always ensured favorable classrooms in the corners. In the western part is conditions for human settlements. As proof, one can a winter mosque. The corners of the building freely walk through the ancient ruins. A museum is are decorated with high minarets. The deco- in the center of the remains. The museum houses rations consists of glazed and unglazed bricks, a wall mural showing proof of diplomatic relations mosaics, majolica,carving marble. The most with the Chinese. The famous Persian Pehlvan Rus- beautiful decorations are zhose of the main tam and Sohrab belonged to the Afrosiyob. portal, where geometric, vegetative and epi- graphic decorations were used. Inscriptions • Khazrat-Khizr, Tashkent kuchasi. 8-18. This mention Ulugbek and several dates relating to mosque is one of the ancient edifices of Samarkand the stages of construction. In 823 (1420) when was destroyed by Genghis Khan’s hordes. It was the construction of the medrasah was finished. rebuilt in 19 cent. A beautiful Mosque stands on the elevation at the entrance of town from where Tilla Kari Madrasah. In 1660 the Tilya- their eye wanders over Bibi-Khonym Mosque, the Kori (“Gilded”) Madrasah was built. It was big bazaar and the mountains in the South. not only a residential college for students, but also played the role of grand mosque. It has • Tomb of Prophet Daniel, Afrosiab (Off Tashkent a two-storied main facade and a vast courtyard Kochasi, Northeast of Registan). Amongst other cu- fringed by dormitory cells, with four galleries riosities in Samarkand is the tomb of the Hebrew along the axes. The mosque building is situated Prophet Daniel, which is in the cemetery section in the western section of the courtyard. The of Afrosiab next to a pleasant stream. For a small main hall of the mosque is abundantly gilded. fee you may enter the tomb, which contains a burial chamber around 18 meters long. Muslim men will offer prayers while you listen respectfully. After • Gur Emir Mausoleum (Gur-e Amir Mausoleum), the conquest of Syria the grave was transported to Akhunbabayev. 8-19. (aka Amir Temur Mau- Samarkand under the orders of Amir Temur. soeum) As a conqueror there are few that are Tamer- lane equal, both in territory and lives taken. It is said • that he made pyramids out of the skulls of his van- Ulugbek’s Observatory. Another curiosity is the quished. Today one can visit his tomb in the beau- observatory of Ulugbek (Timur’s grandson). It was tifully reconstructed Gur-Emir Mausoleum (1404- located by the Russian archeologists. Only the foun- 1405, 15-17 centuries) and reflect on his life while dations remain but it is truly extraordinary. Ulug- looking at the largest piece of jade (greenstone) in bek was an astronomer, scientist and architect. His the world. 10,000 som. scientific and astronomical discoveries greatly ad- vanced knowledge in these fields. The monument is situated in the north-east outskirts of city at the foot • Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Tashkent kochasi (on the Chupan-ata mountain, which in medieval times was pedestrian by Siob Bazaar). The restored Mosque called Kukhak. That was three floor round building, Bibi-Khonym (named after the wife of Temur 1399- decorated by glazed tiles, majolica, mosaic, but it 1404) is one of best known architectural attrac- was destroyed. The only thing that was preserved is tions of Central Asia. The Mosque was erected on a part of huge secstant – major astronomic instru- Timur’s order after his raid of Delhi. The Minaret of ment, the lowest part of which was in a deep trench the Mosque was supposed to be the tallest. 10,000 (11 km). Both arcs of this instrument are made of som. marble with indication of degrees. During the ex- cavation works there were found a lot of remains of • Shakhi-Zinda Ensemble. Another point of in- other astronomic instruments. Even being preserved terest is ancient necropolis Shakh-i-Zinda (9-14, partially, the observatory of Ulugbek is unique not 19 centuries)situated on southeastern mound of only for Central Asia, but also for the whole world. Afrosiab. This architectural complex consists of 44 The remains of observatory were conserved at the tombs in more than 20 mausoleums. The greatest beginning of 60s XX. Here was also organized mu- Significance of Shah E Zinda is that he was the First seum, where collecting the unique astronomic infor- cousin of the Prophet Muhammad and resembles the mation and instruments related to Timurids epoch. 2.4. SEE 15

• Mausoleum of Al Buxori Al Bukhari. Located central square mausoleum without portal with four in a suburb of Samarkand, at Payerik. Al Buxori identical facades. The arch entrance is decorated by was collector of the sayings of prophet Muhamed blue glazed tiles and eventually the cupola was also and compiled them in to a book Known as Hadith covered by glazed tiles. According to manuscripts Bukhari Sharif or Bukhari Sahih. He was buried Rukhabat mausoleum (“place of spirit presence”) in the place where his mausoleum is located now. was the burial place of the Samarkand suﬁ Burkhan His Mausoleum was reconstructed by Uzbek Gov- ad-Din Sagardji, who died in 1380s. The mau- ernment and supported by some Muslim Govern- soleum was built at a time, when central compo- ments, the bricks were delivered from Saudi Arabia sitions were not popular and decorations of burial and Kuwait. The project was ﬁnanced by the Ira- architecture was very rich. On the occasion of nian government. The constructers and artists from anniversary of Amir Timur in 1996 all buildings, all Uzbekistan and Iran were working to reonstruct which were not related to the monument, were de- the complex. The Green Marble was supplied by the stroyed and the ruins of constructions of Rukha- Pakistan Government. According to newspaper ar- bat complex – the mosque, khidjras, medrese and ticles Imam Bukhari’s grave is visited every day by minaret came to light. about 1.000 visitors from all over the world. The present building was constructed on top of the orig- • Abdi Darun Ensemble (in the north-east part of inal grave of Imam Al-Bukhari in 1997, 1225 years city). The mausoleum was erected over the grave after the imam’s death. The complex consists of Al of famous lawyer. It has been reconstructed for Bukhari’s mosque and grave and a museum exhibit- several times. A 'ziaratkhana' was built in front of ing Qurans from some Muslim countries. mausoleum during the reign of Ulugbek. The portal and cupola drum are decorated with geometric or- • Abu Mansoor Al Matrudi Mausoleum. Newly naments and inscriptions from glazed bricks. In the Renovated the Mausoleum of great Sunni Faqi is cemetery are 'dahmas’ (large grave constructions), located 1 km from masjid Bibi Khanum inside the dating to the 15 cent., covered with glazed tiles. Residential area. Visitor has to walk. Mirza Za- The mosque was constructed at the beginning of 20 heer Ud Din Babur in his book Babur Noma has cent. It consists of a winter room and a summer col- praised the knowledge and Command on Fiqah of umn aivan, decorated by pottery carving and colored Abu Mansoor Al Matrudi. paintings. A small medrese was added at the end of 19th cent.

• Ishrat-khana Mausoleum, Sadriddin Ayniy. Ru- ined and atmospheric with no people at all {GPS N 39.38.35.0 , E 066.59.26.5} [Aug 2012] free.

• Ak-Saray Mausoleum.

• Khodja Ahrar Ensemble (in the northern part of city near the cemetery). The grave of the famous religious and state benefactor of 15th cent. Naksh- bandi Ubeidallah Ahrar is decorated by white marble tiles covered by inscriptions. The Medrese of Nadira divan-begi is a one ﬂoor building with a traditional four-aivans yard composition. The main entrance is decorated by portal, two khudjras are situated on the both sides of it as well as in the north and south parts of building. The western part of building is a mosque with a huge portal, main hall (mikhrab) and four rooms. The mosque was probably built in 15th cenr., but the medrese was erected in 1040-1045 (1630-1636) according to the order of well-known oﬃcial Nadira divan-begi by architect Dust-Mukhammad. The decoration are very Tile mosaic in the mosque of Khoja Ahrar typical for ?VII: majolica, mosaic of high quality. The decorations of entrance portal are illustrating tigers and does. The summer mosque was built in • Rukhabat Mausoleum, Akhunbabayev (between XVII in the south from medrese. The decorations Registan square and Gur-Emir ensemble). This is a of mikhrab niche of this mosque are very similar 16 CHAPTER 2. SAMARKAND

to medrese. The column aivan (verandah) between • Karim Bek, 194 Gagarina St. serving variety of medrese and summer mosque was constructed or re- food. The restaurant hall turns into a disco at 8PM constructed in later period. At the beginning of XX with number of difference dance shows at 21:00. century ceiling of aivan was covered by vivid paint- breakfast USD3, lunch USD6, dinner USD8. ings. A small minaret, which is situated opposite to • aivan, was erected in 1909 by Sadulla architect. Cafe Magistr, 30/45 Buston Saroy (after the Timurs statue, on the main street past by the Registon hotel), ☎ +998 66 266 00 20, +998 66 250 15 51. Ex- cellent pizzas, vegetarian options, reasonable prices 2.5 Do and friendly staff (the manager speaks excellent En- glish) makes this place one of the best eateries in Visit a spa/banya for a Samarkand deep tissue massage. town. Ask for both the English and Russian menu as the English is old and is wrongly priced. [Aug 2012] pizzas from uzs7000, mains from uzs4000. 2.6 Buy • Aziz Supermarket, Pochta 6. The only super market in town at the moment [Aug 2012] {GPS N • Samarkand Zeera (black cumin) is famous all over 39.39.15.2 , E 066.57.27.5} the world for its aroma. • Sikhookyung Korean Restaurant (not very easy to • Samarkand Pistachio, smaller in size but very pop- find, from Ahunbabaev left to Ulugbek and then right ular. on the 2nd street, keep on going, you'll see it on your left corner), ☎ +998 66 378 12 11. A good Korean • Samarkand Shafran Or Zafran is famous but in- restaurant with friendly service [Aug 2012] {GPS N ferior in quality as compared with Iranian saffron. 39.39.40.4 , E 066.57.31.8} from uzs 8000. • Super Osh Cafe, Orzi Makhmudov St (Map only 2.7 Eat shows approximate location +/- a block or so). Samarkand style “Osh” or “Plov” with sweet carrots. The most famous product of Samarkand is their bread, Somsa also available, prepared in external ovens. Go “Samarkand Non”. A visitor will rarely find anybody early, can get full. Super Osh was once an Italian leaving Samarkand with out buying Non as a gift. There restaurant hence the anachronistic decor. are so many interesting stories about “Samarkand Non”.

• Local restaurant, Suzangaron street. Great real lo- 2.8 Drink cal restaurant in a side street only a few meters from the Registan. They oﬀer good shashlik and other Samarkand is a conservative city as compared with Uzbek food. Beer and vodka are available too. Tashkent. There are few Night Clubs and Bars. On Afrosiab Hotel there is a Night Club and Bar. In Pres- ident Hotel Guests can have Beer in Nice Environments. • Cafe Nur, Registan 9 (Almost opposite Registan). Incante Show Club is at a walking Distance from Afrosiab Ordinary clean local cafe selling pizza (UZS3,500) Hotel and in the evening visitors can watch Pole Dance. etc., including vegetarian options. Good for travellers because of the location and because the owner • speaks excellent English. Teahouse-cafe Oriental sweets, Tashkentskaya Str. (located at the beginning of the pedestrian street Tashkentskaya in the center of old city, close to Reg- • Exclusive Restaurant, #92, Amir Timur St, ☎ istan). The building was constructed at the end of +998 66 233-6090. Armenian food in Samarkand. 19th cent. as a caravan saray. Well frequented by local Armenians of all ages.

• Regal Palace Restaurant, Regal Palace Hotel (Samarkand Airport). Indian Food Prepared by In- 2.9 Sleep dian Chef etc., including vegetarian options. The only Restaurant oﬀering Indian food. USD7 Lunch, 2.9.1 Budget USD9 Dinner. • Bahodir B&B, Mulokandov 132 (In the city center, • Istiqlol, 157, Amir Temur St. serving Shurpa, on the east side of the Registan, behind the museum.), Lagman, Mastava, homemade noodles, Guj, Plov, ☎ +998 (83) 66 235 85 29. Check-out: 12:00. This Manti, Shashlik, Pelmeni, Dul or Barra breakfast place seems to be the main meeting point for back- US$5, lunch US$ 6, dinner US$7. packers in Samarkand. The courtyard with teabeds 2.10. CONNECT 17

makes a nice place for few beers and sharing travel 2.10 Connect stories. The staff is friendly, honest and willing to sell beer from their fridge. However, if staying in • Railways Station, Beruny Str, ☎ 291532. the dorm, the shared bathroom and toilet is a bit claustrophobic, but not bad. There is Wi-Fi but had • Airport, Abdullaev Str (tickets: Gagarin Str 84, some kind of problem. USD8 for a dorm bed, dou- phone 2308659), ☎ 321102, 352894, 2308641. bles from USD20 , breakfast is included and a dinner costs USD2 extra.. • Jahongir B&B, Chirokchi #4 (50 metres behind the 2.11 Go next wall on Suzangaron str. from the SUPERMARKET store on the corner), ☎ +998 66 391-9244, e-mail: • Shakhrisabz, 100 km from Samarkand [email protected]. Check-in: 15:00, check- out: 11:00. Jahongir B&B is located in the heart of • Penjikent/Tajikistan, 60 km from Samarkand, Historical part of Samarkand within 5 minutes from • Urgut, 30 km southeast of Samarkand, spectacular Registan Ensemble. Comfortable rooms with mod- bazaar ern amenities. Services include: dinners on request, wireless internet, taxi on call, guide services, laundry & dry clean. single USD25, double USD40. • Hotel Zarafshan, 65 Sharaf Rashidov St (beside Central Park in the new part of town), ☎ +998 662 333 372. A recently renovated old Soviet hotel with loads of moody charm. Rooms are variable, so ask to see more than one if the first isn't to your liking. The front desk staff were very helpful. USD15-30. • B&B Davr, Samarkand,Republik of Uzbek- istan,Ali Kushchi st.43 (In the city center, close to the Registan), e-mail: [email protected]. Check-out: 12:00. B&B with rooms set around a courtyard. They also do dinners on request which are a delicious and massive spread and very reasonable. The son of the owner speaks English. USD15 per person per night incl breakfast.

2.9.2 Mid-range

• Hotel Regal Palace, Kunaev Street, Samarkand Airport (Samarkand Airport), ☎ +998 97 4431080, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 14.00, check-out: 12.00. $65-85 including breakfast. • Hotel Malika, 37, Khamraev St, ☎ +998 662 330197, e-mail: [email protected]. USD40-65 including breakfast.

2.9.3 Splurge

• Registan Plaza (President Hotel), 53, Shokhrukh Str, ☎ 2334086. Four star hotel opened 2004, centrally located, restaurant, swimming pool single US$105, double US$165 incl buﬀet breakfast. (updated Mar 2015) • Orient Star Hotel, 33. Daghitskaja Str., ☎ 2322906. opened 2001, in the heart of the old town, restaurant, swimming pool Chapter 3

Ferghana Valley (Uzbekistan)

The Uzbek part of the Ferghana Valley is in the center • Krasnoyarsk on Wed, of the valley, and in the extreme southeast of Uzbekistan. The whole valley, both this part and the parts in other • Moscow Domodedovo International Airport on Tue, countries, is on the main route of the old Silk Road route Thu and Sat, between Kashgar and Samarkand. • Novosibirsk on Mon,

• Tashkent on Tue, Thu, Sat and Mon (Summer 3.1 Cities Timetable 2010).

• Andijan — the birthplace of Babur, founder of the Mughal Dynasty. 3.5.2 By road

• Chust — There is only one way to the Ferghana Valley and it is heavily guarded. You can get to Ferghana with taxi from • Ferghana — Tashkent. You can ﬁnd taxies going there near bazaars. • Kokand — The price is around 30,000 sums. Crossing the border of Ferghana there is a checkpoint where they check pass- • Namangan — a stronghold of Wahhabism ports. Foreigners usually are registered, but there should be no problem. • Pop — Note: when going through tunnels there and in area around you cannot photograph or use a mobile phone. 3.2 Other destinations The police will stop you and you might have some problems. Shohimardon - A hill resort in a valley in the Pamiro- Alai mountains surrounded by Kyrgyzstan 3.6 Get around

3.3 Understand Taxies from certain points of cities go to all other cities. There also microbuses. 3.4 Talk 3.7 See In Ferghana most people speak Uzbek, but Russian and other languages of the region such as Tajik are also heard. 3.7.1 Itineraries

3.5 Get in 3.8 Do

3.5.1 By plane 3.9 Eat Andizhan Airport (IATA: AZN) is located in the south- western fringes of the town. Uzbekistan Airways operates 3.10 Drink ﬂights from :

18 3.13. GO NEXT 19

3.11 Stay safe

3.12 Respect

Ferghana is a strongly Islamic region, so dressing should be modest.

3.13 Go next

Ferghana is a “corner” of Uzbekistan. You can either go back or go to other country - Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan or China - all are not far. Chapter 4

Andijan

4.1.2 By bus

You can get to Andijan from any other city of Ferghana Valley by taxies or minibuses. The main bus station is close to the train station

4.2 Get around

4.3 See

• Babur Literary Museum. (updated Feb 2016)

• Jomi Mosque. (updated Feb 2016)

4.4 Do

4.5 Buy

4.6 Eat Jomi Mosque

Andijan is a city in the Ferghana Valley, Uzbekistan. 4.7 Drink

4.1 Get in 4.8 Sleep

4.1.1 By plane 4.9 Stay safe

Andizhan Airport (IATA: AZN) is located in the south- Andijan was the site of what many have termed a mas- western fringes of the town. Uzbekistan Airways operates sacre in May of 2005. The story is complicated, but in flights from brief, an armed raid on a local prison, followed by the occupation of a government building where local govern- • Krasnoyarsk on Wed, ment officials were held hostage, led to a gathering of sev- • Moscow Domodedovo International Airport on Tue, eral thousand people in the town square. At some point, Thu and Sat, firing began and the end result was the death of what most believe to be hundreds of innocents, shot down by gov- • Novosibirsk on Mon, ernment troops. The official government version of these • Tashkent on Tue, Thu, Sat and Mon (Summer events was that the entire event was triggered by Islamic Timetable 2010). extremists and that only 187 people died - virtually all

20 4.10. GO NEXT 21

“extremists”, government officials and troops. Eyewit- nesses to the tragedy, however, (and there are many who fled the country and have been granted asylum in various countries) say that hundreds of innocent citizens, including women and children, were gunned down in the streets as they tried to flee. Much of what took place at that time in Andijan may never be fully known. The government of Uzbekistan has refused demands from the west for an impartial investiga- tion and, in fact, has intimated that the “extremists” who triggered the event were financed by the West. Andijan is accessible for tourists as any other place in Fer- ghana Valley. The only special precautions would be not discussing the events of 2005 and respect the religion, as Ferghana Valley. especially Andijan, is the islamic region. Dressing should be modest.

4.10 Go next

• Osh (Kyrgyzstan) 70 km away through Dostyk/Dustlyk border crossing. Public transport and shared taxis available on both sides. Chapter 5

Chust

Chust is a city in the Ferghana Valley, Uzbekistan. It is 5.7 Drink renown as a city of knife makers. It is small and calm, but interesting to see. 5.8 Sleep

5.1 Get in 5.9 Connect

Microbuses and taxies from various parts of the Ferghana Valley go there. You can ﬁnd those microbuses in near 5.10 Go next bazaars.

5.2 Get around

On foot or by taxie.

5.3 See

5.4 Do

Amusuement park - ir is really nice little amusement park. The carousels are old, but that adds to the fun. There is also a disco there, it is open during the day. There are also quite a lot cafes and ice cream shop. The park is attractive, with trees and some fountains. There is also special circus performance there. It is free of charge, but after each performance you can donate some money for the performers. It is very traditional and very interesting to see.

5.5 Buy

Knives in the bazaar.

5.6 Eat

In the amusement park it is really worth to try some plov. The place is nice and you get to sit in these special outside eating ramps, traditional Uzbek thing.

22 Chapter 6

Ferghana

Ferghana is a city in the Ferghana Valley, Uzbekistan. 6.5 Do A pass from Kashgar (now in China’s westernmost province, Xinjiang) to Ferghana was an important link 6.6 Buy on the main course of the historic Silk Road. From Ferghana, westbound caravans would proceed along the Ferghana valley to Kokand (where they might branch 6.7 Eat oﬀ toward Tashkent) and Khujand, then continue toward Samarkand. 6.7.1 Budget

6.1 Understand 6.7.2 Mid-range

6.7.3 Splurge 6.2 Get in 6.8 Drink 6.2.1 By plane Uzbekistan Airways operates ﬂights form 6.9 Sleep

• Kazan on Fri, 6.9.1 Budget • Moscow Domodedovo International Airport on Fri, Sonya’s Guesthouse Fergana Tel: 998-373-2246431. • St. Petersburg on Sun, Very cozy, clean and comfortable place. It is located right in the center of Ferghana and very close to Bazaar and • Tashkent on Tue, Thu, Fri and Sun (ﬂying time: 1 Ferganiy park. Rooms are $10-15 per person, breakfast hrs.) (Summer Timetable 2010). included.

6.2.2 By train 6.9.2 Mid-range 6.2.3 By car Asia hotel located in front of hokimiat (city government). It’s 360 km from Tashkent through Kamchik mountain Very clean and comfortable. Single rooms starting from pass. Takes 5 hours with experienced driver. Taxis run $40. Breakfast included. swimming pool is available. from Kuyluk bazaar and Severniy (nord) train station in Tashkent. Taxi costs about $10 (as of october 2009) per seat. 6.9.3 Splurge

6.3 Get around 6.10 Connect

6.4 See 6.11 Stay safe

23 24 CHAPTER 6. FERGHANA

6.12 Cope

6.13 Go next

6.13.1 By plane

Uzbekistan Airways operates ﬂights to

• Kazan on Fri,, • Moscow Domodedovo International Airport on Fri,

• St. Petersburg on Sun, • Tashkent on Tue, Thu, Fri and Sun (ﬂying time: 1 hrs.) (Summer Timetable 2010).

6.14 Headline text Chapter 7

Kokand

7.4 See

At one time, Kokand had over 300 mosques; some of those survive.

• Palace of Khudayar Khan. Only nineteen of the palace’s original 113 rooms survive; they are now a museum. (updated Feb 2016) • Khamza Museum. dedicated to Kokand’s Soviet poet and hero Hamza Hakimzade Niyazi. (updated Feb 2016) • Khan’s Palace, built 1863-1874 Khamza House Museum. (updated Feb 2016) • Mukimi Museum. (updated Feb 2016) Kokand (also Quqon or Qo'qon) is on the southwest- • Jummi Mosque. The Jummi Mosque, built 1800- ern edge of the Ferghana Valley. Population was about 1812, is large enough to hold 10,000 worshippers. 200,000 as of 1999. (updated Feb 2016) • Amin Bag Madrassah. Built in 1830 and restored in 1913, the madrassah was closed under the Sovi- 7.1 Understand ets and reopened in 1991. A carved wooden gate leads to the main courtyard with colored tiled walls Kokand is a trading city on the Silk Road, at a junction (updated Feb 2016) where a route going north to Tashkent branches oﬀ the • main trail from Samarkand through the Ferghana Valley Dasturkhanci Madrassah. (updated Feb 2016) and over a pass to Kashgar. It has existed for at least a • Narbutabey Madrassah. (updated Feb 2016) thousand years. • Modar-I-Khan Mausoleum. (updated Feb 2016) The city’s glory days were 1709-1876 when it ruled the Kokand Kanate, which included parts of what are now • Dakhma-i-Shakhon. (updated Feb 2016) four countries. The Russians put an end to that. Yakub Beg, who was born near Kokand and started his career in the Khan’s army, built a kingdom around Kashgar and 7.5 Do ruled much of what is now Xinjiang in the late 19th century, but Chinese forces ended that. 7.6 Buy

• 7.2 Get in Kokand Bazaar. (updated Feb 2016) • Rishton Ceramics Factory, in the town of Rish- ton (Half-way between Kokand and Ferghana). The • Bus Station. (updated Feb 2016) Rishton factory is famed for its blue and green ceramics. Decorative plates, tea-sets with ﬂoral design are sold to visitors. However such items are not 7.3 Get around hand-made. Modern machinery is used in the production process. (updated Feb 2016)

25 26 CHAPTER 7. KOKAND

7.7 Eat

Kokand Teahouse

• Markhabor Teahouse. (updated Feb 2016) • Ghuldasta Teahouse. (updated Feb 2016)

7.8 Drink

7.9 Sleep

• Hotel Istiqlol, ☎ +998 91 140 80 00. (updated Feb 2016) • Hotel Khan, 31, Istiqlol Kuchasi. (updated Feb 2016)

• Kokand City Hotel, Imam Ismail Buchari Kuchasi (near Nabiyev Cinema), ☎ +998 95 400 40 81. (updated Feb 2016) • Dangara Hotel, Tashkent Street 70 (Opposite Dan- gara bus stop.), ☎ +998 73 503 80 04. Comfortable Motel located 5 km from the city center. Outdoor swimming pool and sauna $46 per night (2016). (updated Feb 2016)

7.10 Connect

7.11 Go next Chapter 8

Namangan

Namangan is the second-largest city in Uzbekistan 8.4 Do (2011 pop. 449,200) on the northern edge of the Ferghana Valley. 8.5 Buy

8.1 Get in 8.6 Eat

8.1.1 By plane 8.7 Drink Namangan Airport (IATA: NMA) 8.8 Sleep • Uzbekistan Airways : Ekaterinburg, Moscow Do- modedovo, St. Petersburg, Tashkent • Chorsu Hotel. (updated Feb 2016)

• Ural Airlines : Krasnodar, Krasnoyarsk- • Hotel Saydana (former Hotel Orzu), Nadira St.. Yemelyanovo, Nizhny Novgorod, Yekaterinburg 150 rooms, some with air-con and many with bathrooms. (updated Feb 2016)

8.2 Get around 8.9 Connect

8.3 See 8.10 Go next

• Mullo Kyrgyz Madrasseh (Bazaar area). – built in 1910 (updated Feb 2016)

• Mosque of Ota Valikhan Tur. – built in 1915, and one of the largest in Central Asia; now home to a local branch of the Wahabi sect (updated Feb 2016)

• Namangan Natural History Museum. – housing local archaeological discoveries (updated Feb 2016)

• Hadja Amin Kabri Architectural Complex (near the bus station). – ornate terra-cotta facade from the 18th to 19th century (updated Feb 2016)

• Akhsykent ruins. – 1st century settlement 25 km west of Namangan, on the Syr-Darya River. For- merly capital of Fergana Valley, it was destroyed by the Mongols, rebuilt by the Timurids and abandoned in the 17th century for Namangan after an earthquake. (updated Feb 2016)

27 Chapter 9

Pop

Pop is a city in the Ferghana Valley, Uzbekistan. The 9.8 Sleep original name of the city was Bob, “gate” in Arabic. Eventually it got to Bop and then to Pop. It was one of the Silk Road cities. Now it is small, calm city, where 9.9 Connect travelers might go to see the real life of Uzbek people. 9.10 Go next 9.1 Get in

There is just one way to the Ferghana Valley and the district of Pop is the ﬁrst one on that route. The taxis from Tashkent that go to the valley can take you to Pop easily. From the capital of the region - Namangan - there are taxis and minibuses that go to Pop.

9.2 Get around

It is a small city so you can easily see it on foot. You can stop a taxi if you want to go somewhere further.

9.3 See

• Archaeological Museum. Finds from the UN- ESCO protected graves of Munchak and Balyand Tepe (updated Feb 2016)

9.4 Do

9.5 Buy

You can buy things from local bazaar.

9.6 Eat

9.7 Drink

28 Chapter 10

Northern Uzbekistan

Northern Uzbekistan comprises nearly one half 10.6 Get in of Uzbekistan, dominated by the barren Kyzylkum Desert and the enormous semi-autonomous Republic of There are several ﬂights a week from Tashkent to Nukus. Qaraqalaqstan.

10.7 Get around 10.1 Regions 10.8 See 10.2 Cities

• Khiva — historic Silk Road city, home to UNESCO 10.8.1 Itineraries World Heritage site Itchan Kala. • Moynoq — depressed former ﬁshing town, now 10.9 Do miles away from the receding Aral Sea. • Nukus — the capital of Qaraqalpaqstan is the re- 10.10 Eat gion’s only large city, and is the unexpected home of the second largest painting collection of the Rus- sian avant-garde in the world. 10.11 Drink • Urgench — a big, drab Soviet sort of city, gateway to Khiva. 10.12 Stay safe • Zarafshan — a city truly in the middle of nowhere, Uzbekistan’s Gold Capital, home to the Navoi Min- 10.13 Go next ing & Metallurgy Combinat.

10.3 Other destinations

• Aral Sea • Ayaz-Kala • Toprak-Kala

10.4 Understand

10.5 Talk

The language of Qaraqalpaqstan is called Qaraqalpaq. It is it more similar to Kazakh than to Uzbek. Uzbeks can hardly understand it. In this remote region people rarely talk in Russian—Uzbek is more handy.

29 Chapter 11

Ayaz-Kala

11.1 Understand

Ayaz Kala is located on the wastern side of the Sultan- Uiz-Dagh Mountains. The site consists of three fortresses which were built from the 4th cent. BC to the 7th cent. AD. The fortresses were part of a series of forts located at the edge of the Kizilkum Desert, which provided defence against raids by nomads and the Saca of the Syr-Darya delta The World Monuments Fund has put Ayaz Kala on the watch list of 100 most endagered sites.

Ayaz Kala 11.2 Get in

Ayaz Kala is easily accessible by vehicle from Khiva and Urgench via Biruni and Buston. Ayaz Kala is about 70 km from Urgench on a bitumen road. The last 2 km are on a sand road to the Ayaz Kala Yurt Camp. There are numerous foot paths between the sites. It is about 32 km from Ayaz Kala to Toprak Kala.

11.3 Get around

• Toprak Kala • Ayaz Kul Lake • Badai Tugai Nature Reserve

11.4 See

• Ayaz Kala 1 is a fortress dating back to end of the 4th or beginning of the 3rd cent. BC. In this time Khorezm had become independent from Per- sia. Ayaz Kala 1 was part of a chain of fortresses protecting the agricultural settlements from attacks by nomads. The fortress is situated on the top of a hill, approx. 100 m high, providing wide views over the surrounding plains. The fortress is rectangular Ayaz Kala is an archaeological site in the autonomous in plan with sides 182 and 152 m long. The main republic of Karakalpakstan in Northern Uzbekistan. axis is oriented from South to North.

30 11.5. DO 31

At the southern end of the axis is a square gateway, which 1. The best pictures of Ayaz Kala 1 and 2 are taken at is a typical element of frontier fortresses of Khorezm. sunset. The enemies’ approach lies parallel to the south east walls and invaders were vulnerable to attack from above. • A massive gateway defended by two rectangular towers Ayaz Kala 3 is a fortified garrison dating from the leads into a small rectangular chamber. This chamber was 1st to 2nd cent. AD. The monumental building in overlooked on all sides by high walls from which bow- the north east corner may have been founded in thr men could shoot at the enemy in case the first gate was 5th or 4th cent. BC: The site covers an area of about breached. 5 hectares. The enclosure of the fortress consists of an inner and outer wall with a vaulted corridor between them, about 2 m The enclosure wall is one of the largest fortresses in Kar- wide. The walls continue above the vaults, forming a pro- alpakstan. Ayaz Kala 3 is 66 percent larger than Ayaz tected rampart walk. The walls are up to 10 m high and Kala 1. The biggest of these fortresses is Akcha Khan at their base 2,2 to 2,4 m thick. The walls are reinfoced Kala, which is three times larger than Ayaz Kala 3. It has in the 3rd cent. BC by 45 watch towers in half ellipti- the shape of a parallelogramm with sides 260 m and 180 cal form, at a distance from each other of 11.5 m at the m long. The structure of the external wall is similar to northern and of 14 m at the eastern and western sides. Ayaz Kala 1. The external walls are 7,5 m wide. The circular watch towers have a size of 8 m. The fortress was The fortress seems to have been in use until the 1st cent. builit with paksha in the lower parts and masonry in the AD and might have served as a refuge for the locals up to upper parts. made of adobe blocks. The entrance to the the early medieval period. fortress on the western side consists of an S-Shaped ex- tension of the external wall. The interior of the fortress • Ayaz Kala 2 is a feudal fortress dating from the 6th is empty. to 8th cent. AD. in the Afrighid period. It was built on the top of a conical hill, about 40 m high, situ- The monumental buildings in the north east corner cover ated south west of Ayaz Kala 1. The fortress consists an area of 2.400 square meters. The building has 40 of the entry on the south western side and the main rooms divided into 4 groups by 2 central corridors. There building which is oval in shape. are remains of a narrow corridor on three sides of the buildings. The southern and eastern walls have square watch towers, about 2m x 2m. In the 6th to 8th cent. AD Khorezm was ruled by the Afrighid dynasty of Khorezmshahs. At this time the “di- It is supposed that Ayaz Kala 3 was used in Kushan times hqans”, a new class of feudal landowners came into ex- as a garrison or as a ruler’s residence and refuge for the istence. They were descendants of the ancient nobility, local farming population and that a small force used Ayaz courtiers or soldiers who had been rewarded for military Kala 1 as a lookout post. services. Their agricultural estates were called “rustaq”. They lived in “donjons”, small square forts surrounded by a defensive wall. An important example calles Yakke Parsan is situated 10 km south of Ayaz Kala. 11.5 Do Ayaz Kala 2 was built of rectangular mud bricks on a foundation of “paksha” (cob). The upper parts of the The land around the fortresses is owned by Ayaz Kala outer walls were crenulated. The building was fortified Tours. They run the Ayaz Kala Yurt Camp, organise tours with low battlements and a row of arrow slits. Ayaz Kala 2 to the fortresses, camel rides as well as boat excursion and had a 50 m long sloping man-made staircase on the south- bird watching on Ayaz Kala Lake. ern side of the fort. The main building is considered as a palace with residential quarters, ceremonial halls with ceilings supported by 11.6 Buy multiple columns and a fire temple, luxuriously decorated with wall paintings. This building seems to have been the residence of an feudal lord loyal the Khorezmshah. The 11.7 Eat building was built in the 4th cent. AD and destroyed by two separate fires. The palace was in use during the 6th and 7th cent AD as a domestic dwelling. Ayaz Kala 2 11.8 Drink seems the have been the center of a small rural community and might have been in use until the Mongol invasion in the 13th cent. 11.9 Sleep Parts of the film Gengiz Khan were shot on Ayaz Kala 2. The best view of the site is from the top of Ayaz Kala • Ayaz Kala Yurt Camp 32 CHAPTER 11. AYAZ-KALA

11.10 Connect

11.11 Go next Chapter 12

Khiva

Khiva (Uzbek: Xiva, Хива; Russian: Хива) is a town in the western province of Khorezm in the Republic of Uzbekistan.

12.1 Understand

Along with Samarkand and Bukhara, Khiva is an important and often overlooked historical site on what was once the Great Silk Road (Uzbek: Buyuk Ipak Yol'i). Famous for it’s long and brutal history as a slave trading post sandwiched in between the vast Kyzylkum and Karakum deserts, Khiva is now a quiet, sleepy oasis that The western gate of the old city awaits busloads of tourists instead of caravans of captives. It’s difficult to imagine what exactly ancient Khiva was like, considering the historical areas were restored to a scrubbed and squeaky-clean look by the Soviets in the 1970s. However, the clustered array of mosques, madras- sahs and tiled minarets within an area of less than 3km give you a sense of how crowded and bustling this town jor structures were built near Shem’s well, and it became must have been throughout its history. known as a small trading post on the Silk Road. First Khiva is divided into two distinct sections; one being the written sources date from the 10th century. The Arab older, museum-like Ichon-Qala or Itchan Kala (liter- traveller Al Istachri mentions Khiva in his enumeration ally: within the wall) where striking examples of Islamic of the most important settlements in Chorezm. The Arab architecture were built over the span of 600 years; and the geographer Ibn Battuta visited Khiva in the 14th century. modern Dichon-Qala (literally: outside the wall) where He praised the emir who was untiringly taking care of both the majority of the population live and where all of law and order and reported that the city was so full of the modern buildings exist, but glimpses of Khiva’s great- people that it was almost impossible to find one’s way in ness as a center of Islamic power still linger. Today, the the crowd. It wasn't until the 16th century when Khiva entire city is home to about 40,000 people. It’s a quick was made capital of an Islamic Khanate (starting a bitter 35km from the regional capital of Urgench and a mere rivalry with another Khan 460 km down the Silk Road 5km from the border of Turkmenistan. in Bukhara), that the majority of Khiva’s immense architectural projects began and the town established itself as a center of power in the region. Locals will say (sometimes 12.1.1 History in hushed tones) that if Khiva didn't have a rivalry with nearby Bukhara, it would not be the significant site that it According to legend, Khiva was founded about 2 500 is today. In the 19th century only a strong central power years ago when a son of Noah, Shem, discovered a well was created and taxes and money were introduced. For in the middle of the desert exclaimed “Khi-wa!" (which a long period of time Khiva was one of the most impor- locals will take delight in roughly translating this excla- tant markets of slaves in Central Asia. Slavery. however, mation as “sweet water”). For the next 1 000 years or was formally abolished during the October Revolution of so, the area was inhabited by settlements that used the 1917 only. Khiva with its 94 mosques and 63 mederssahs nearby Amu-Darya river to irrigate agriculture. Accord- is considered as an important center of Islam. Because of ing to the archaeologists Khiva was founded in the 5th or this significance, Khiva was recognized as a World Her- 6th century. As Islam spread to the area, the first ma- itage Site by UNESCO in 1990.

33 34 CHAPTER 12. KHIVA

12.1.2 Climate you can get a 2-bunk coupy for 41 000 sum, a 4-bunk shared coupy for 25 000 sum, or you can rough it in Khiva almost has a two-season climate; with slivers of plaskartnyy (hard-class) for the bargain price of 16 000 spring and fall in between frigid winters and blazing hot sum. The price for a place in a sleeping car is 50 000 UZS summers. It starts to get uncomfortably cold in Khiva by one way (2008). Taxis from Urgench Railway Station to November, with temperatures hovering between −10°C Khiva are about 7 000 UZS one way. For the trolley bus and 5°C. The chill usually lasts well into mid-March; see below. If you want to get a train on other days you just in time for the Navruz holiday. Spring usually lasts can leave from / arrive to Turkul, which is a 20 minutes around a month and a half and is usually one of the best taxi ride to Urgench. times to visit. Summer arrives quickly, however, with temperatures reaching as high as 45°C by August. Luck- ily, it’s a dry heat (rainfall and humidity are practically 12.2.3 By bus negligible) so walking around the city isn't too much of a burden. If you're really budgeting your cash, you can catch a bus to Urgench from the Hippodrome station in Tashkent. The good news is the journey doesn't take much longer than 12.2 Get in the train (20 hours) and is only about 7000 sum. The bad news is you'll be sitting in a cramped space without toilets Usually people travel to the regional capital of Urgench, (the driver decides when to make a pit stop) and minimal whether it’s by air, train, or taxi, and then take a taxi to ventilation (forget about air conditioning). Khiva. With the exception of flying where the rates are There are daily busses from Bukhara to Urgench, leaving fixed (most of the time) you might be subject to ticket from Bukhara Avtovoksal. The buses have no air condi- agents at the train or bus stations charging you a bit higher tioning. The journey time is about 8 hours and the price for a fare because you look like a tourist. Ask a guide or about 10.000 UZS one way. There is no fixed timetable, local for correct information, as Uzbeks are usually will- the buses leave, when all seats are occupied. As at April ing to assist you in getting the correct price. You will, 2012, the road between Bukhara and Urgench is in fairly however, be expected to haggle for the price of your cab poor condition and the bus journey can take up to 10 everywhere, with the unusual exception of the taxi from hours. Uzbek buses are not permitted to drive after 10PM the Urgench bazaar to Khiva (see “by car”). so a bus leaving after 12 may have to make an overnight stop before reaching Bukhara, which will be at a restau- • Railways Station, ☎ 2204197. rant. Passengers can sleep on the bus. • Airport, ☎ 226024025, also for tickets. Collective taxis from Urgench to Khiva leave from Urgench Bazaar near the Dynamo Stadium. The taxis leave when all seats are occupied and the price is about 12.2.1 By air UZS 1.000 one way. Taxis will drop you at the Northern Gate of Khiva Old Town. Khiva is about 40 km away from Urgench Airport (IATA: There is one bus per day, at noon, going directly from UGC). [Uzbekistan Airways] operates twice daily flights Khiva to Tashkent through Bukhara and Samarkand. from Tashkent (operated by RJ-85, AN-24 or YAK-40, Leaving from Koy-Darvoza gate (GPS 41°22'37.1"N, flying time 1:30 hrs) and a flight on Saturday (operated 060°22'15.8"E), which is on the east part of Ichon-Qala by B-757, flying time 1:40 hr, return flight on Sundays). (just exit through the East gate and keep on straight until Flights (as July 2008) were about 105 000 sum for return you reach another gate). The prices in UZS are: 35.000 ticket and about 75 000 sum (€ 39,-) for a single ticket. to Bukhara, 40.000 to Samarkand, 50.000 to Tashkent. You can also reach Urgench on Fridays on Uzbek- [Sep 2012] istan Airways via Domodedovo International Airport in Moscow. Taxis from Urgench Airport to Khiva are about 7 000 sum 12.2.4 By car one way. Inter-city “taxi” services are essentially a collection of informal drivers who wait to fill up their cars with passen- 12.2.2 By train gers and then drive them off to their destinations. They usually charge per passenger; however, you can buy all the Trains from Tashkent leave twice a week and make the seats in a car (typically 1 in the front and 3 in the back) 19 hour journey across the desert to Urgench, with one if you're willing to spend the cash. From Bukhara, the major stop along the way in Samarkand. Trains leave next closest Silk Road site, the 460km trip in a shared Tashkent on Mon, Wed and Sun at 6:15PM and arrive taxi should cost between 60000-80000 sum per person in Urgench at 1:45PM next day. Depending on the class, [as of Sept. 2012]. The price can sometimes depend on 12.4. TALK 35

the type of vehicle you're negotiating for, with Daewoo 12.4 Talk Ticos (similar to Ford Fiesta) costing less and Daewoo Nexia and Matiz brands (similar to Honda Accord) cost- You'll find English spoken inside the Ichon-Qala at hotels ing a bit more. and through a handful of the guides at the main tourism One you reach Urgench, you can either negotiate for a lo- bureau. In the Dichon-Qala, you'll be hard-pressed to find cal taxi to take you directly to Khiva, which usually costs anyone speaking English, unless you run into some local about 8000 sum for the entire car. A cheaper way is to school children who want to practice their skills on you negotiate a ride to the western side of the Urgench Bazaar from their English classes. (inner-city trips shouldn't cost you more than 1500 sum at the most). There you'll find the official Khiva taxi stand, • Uzbek phrasebook which is a row of Daewoo Tico and Matiz brand vehicles all in a line. On average, it takes between 10-15 minutes • Russian phrasebook for a car to fill up and the cost is about 1000 sum per person, flat. Because Khiva is located in the Khorezm province, the locals speak a dialect of Uzbek that is actually closer to Trolleybus: An interesting (and cheap) way to get to Turkmen called “Khorezmcha”. If you've been fever- Khiva from Urgench is via the trolleybus, which you can ishly practicing your Uzbek in elsewhere in Uzbekistan pick up near the Urgench Bazaar. At 700 sum, it’s a bar- and now find that you can't understand a word of what a gain and it allows you to see the countryside between Ur- local Khivan is saying to you, don't worry; they may not gench and Khiva at a snail’s pace. It will also drop you be able to understand you either. In that case, try falling off right in front of the northern gate of the Ichon-Kala back on Russian. with the rest of the taxicabs. Trolleybusses leave Urgench every 30 minutes during daytime and the journey takes about 60 minutes. 12.5 See Khiva is about 1390 km from Andizhan, 470 km from Bukhara, 1370 km from Fergana, 630 km from Karshi, • Kutli Murad Inak Medressa. The medressah was 740 km from Samarkand, 1270 km from Kokand, 200 km from Nukus, 750 km from Shakhrisabz, 1020 km built in the beginning of the 18th cent. It has 81 pupils’ cells. It was one of the wealthiest schools in from Tashkent and 850 km from Termez. Khiva and possessed a lot of lands. It corresponds the traditional type of medressahs of the 17th and 18th cent. The galleries with arcades, the round towers at the corners and the economical use of 12.3 Get around glazed tiles remember the traditions of architecture in Khorezm. It has a beautiful carved wooden door with floral and geometric ornaments. The cells are Cabs don't run in the Ichon Qala, so walking from sight vaulted, have a fire place and are lighted by a win- to sight is your only choice! Since the city is so compact, dow in or above the door. it’s very easy to take a leisurely stroll around the city.

Outside the walls, Khiva is still a very walkable city. • Khan Anush Mohammed’s Bath (beside Ak You can access the main bazaar, either through the Cara- Mosque). The building with a dome beside Ak vanserai through the Ichon-Qala east gate or you can walk Mosque is called Khan Anush Mohammed’s Bath. around the Ichon-Qala walls on the north side until you The main part of it is subterranean in order th keep see the produce sellers sitting near the western wall. A the walls steadily warm. It has all the comforts of few of the better authentic Uzbek restaurants lie within an oriental bath: vestibule, dressing room, lavatory, a half-kilometer of the Ichon-Qala walls as well as some basin, well with cold water and ﬂoor heating. It is great beer stands. If you want to explore the residential considered as one of the most interesting secular northern and western ends of town, ﬂag down an informal buildings of the 17th cent. in Central Asia. “taxi” and negotiate a fare, which should run between 1 500 and 3 000 sum per hour. • Uc Avlija Mausoleum (east of Itchan Kala, beside Tash Chauli). Uc Avlija is called the mausoleum of the three holy men or mausoleum of three great • Toprak-Kala dervishs. Portal and dome provide a rather medieval impression. The masuoleum is thought to date to the • Koj-Krylgan-Kala 16th cent.

• Tash Chauli. This is the new palace of the rulers • Ayaz-Kala of Khiva. Tash Chauli means “palace of stones”. It 36 CHAPTER 12. KHIVA

was built in the first half of the 19th cent. during Russia were Khiva’s most important trade partners. the reign of Khan Allakuli. The palace has more The Arab chronicler Mervasi reports that a caravan than 160 rooms, 5 courtyards and a strong wall with from Urgench came to Russia in the 11th cent, that many round towers. The Harem’s Courtyard is also they discussed the islam with prince Vladimir and surrounded by high brick walls with towers. It is the that they bough furs, leather and swords from the oldest part of the building and is rectangular in plan. Russians. In the time of tsar Peter the Great envoys It is paved and has a well. The door to the palace of Khiva visited Petersburg every 4 or 5 years. They and the entrance are very narrow. It is easy to get brought silk, cotton, spices, leather, copper table- lost in the labyrinth of corridors. Today it accom- ware, linnen and melons from Turkestan to Russia. modates a permanent exhibition of the museum of The caravans were made up of up to two thousand Khiva. The khan’s wives lived in the southern part of camels and bought cloth, sugar, iron tea kettles and the harem, whereas his relatives on his mother’s side rifles in Russia. The trade reached its apex around lived in the less favourable parts of the harem. The 1830. Khan Allakuli decided to build a new cara- courtyard is ornamented by 5 high Aiwans. Carved vanseray and a new tim. Parts of the city walls had to wooden columns on marble bases carry the ceiling be pulled down for the new caravanseray. Like in a which is decorated with paintings and the walls are medressah the rooms of the merchants are arranged masked with blue tiles. Even the righful wives of around a square courtyard. Soon the caravanseray the khan lived like slaves. They weaved carpets, became too small and the tim, a new open market made embroideries and sewed. They could leaved was built. It is one of the most beautiful buildings the palace at rare occasions only and then they went of the end of the khanat. It consisted of a long cov- in a car covered by felt and their companions with ered corridor with 14 domes in the vicinity of the their white sticks removed everybody who came into ancient slave market. their way. Ishrat Chauli or Mikhman Chauli means “courtyard of guests” and was the place where receptions were held. The throne room was in the first 12.5.1 Ichon-Qala (Itchan Kala) floor and the guests’ rooms in the ground and in the first floor. The building is ornamented with a frieze The old town Ichon-Qala (Itchan Kala) covers an area of of blue tiles with verses of the poet Agekhi. In the about 26 hectares. It is rectangular in plan.The tourist of- center of the courtyard are two brick foundations, fice inside the West Gate will most likely ask you to buy a about 20 cm high, for the khan’s winter yurts. Ars ticket that covers entry for all of the museums and build- Chauli. the courtyard of justice is similar to Ishrat ings inside the city (excluding the Islom-Khoja minaret Chauli, but its square base has twice its size. The and the Juma Mosque) for about 10000 sum. towers at the corners and the aiwans are rather high. Itchan Kala was the site of the khan’s palace. High offi- The Ars Chauli has tweo doors, the main entrance cials and clergy and rich merchants used to live here. This and the door of the condemned through which the is why we find the most important buildings in the Itchan prisoners sentenced to death went to their execution. Kala. The ordinary people, small merchants, craftsmen According to the traditions of Khiva every noble- and peasants lived in Dishan Kala. There were wells in man, governour and also the khan himself had to Itchan Kala, whereas people had to draw drinking water devote at least 4 hours per day to the administration from the irrigation channels in Dishan Kala. In the north of justice. He had to deal with all kinds of cases western part of Itchan Kala is the well, where according from theft of chicken to capital crimes. The khan to the legend the city was founded by Sem. usually went to the court of justice after the prayer at noontime. • City walls. The surrounding walls are 6 to 8 m high and 6 m thick at their base. A great part of the city • Khan Allakuli Medressah (between the bazaar walls has been destroyed, but a part 2,2 km long has and Palwan Darvasa). The Hungarian traveller been preserved. As in other cities in Central Asia the Vambery reports thatit was the second biggest city walls were built of sun-dried bricks. The city medressah in the city. It had 99 cells and the pupils walls were destroyed several times, but they were were well taken care of. It has the biggest and most always rebuilt. According to the archaeologists the beautiful facade and the biggest and most beautiful oldest parts of the city wall date from the 5th to 6th portal of Khiva. The high Pishtak with deep por- cent.AD tal niche is decorated with finely ornamented blue tiles and decorative white inscriptions. The lecture • City Gates. The main sights lie within the mas- rooms (dershane), the mosque and the library (kitab sive Ichon-Qala, which contains almost all of the khana) are situated in the first floor. The courtyard ancient buildings of Khiva. There are four gates on ist surrounded by pupils’ cells in two stories. each side of the wall;

• Tim (near Palwan Darvase). Bukhara, Persia and • North Gate (Bachtscha Darwase) is closest to the 12.5. SEE 37

trolleybus and taxi stand; it is also called Urgench and with ﬂower motives on a blue background were Gate executed under Alla-Kuli Khan in the 19th cent. • East Gate (Palwan Darwase) is the entry and exit The Reception Hall is surrounded by a small courtyard to the caravanserai (a large building to house cara- with stone pavement which is separated from the other vans); It is the best preserved gate in Khiva, its pas- parts by a high wall. In the courtyard is a round elevation sage passage is 60 m long with deep niches on both characterizing the place pf the khan’s winter yurt. On the sides. In the 17th and 18th cent. it was the prison left of the Reception Room is an Aiwan with two beautiful of the khanate, the niches serving as cells. The pris- carved wooden columns. Aiwan and Reception Hall are oners had to solicit alms of the passers-by in order decorated with painted ceilings. Behind the Aiwan was not to die of starvation. Slaves who escaped and the Throne Room with the khan’s throne in a niche. were captured again were nailed with their ears to the gate. The Palwan Darwase was also called the • Mohammed Rakhim Khan Medrassah and “gate of the hangman": public executions took place Square (across the square from the Kukhna Ark). in front of the gate. On the right hand side of Pal- If you were to be executed during the khan’s rule, wan Darwase near the walls of Itshan Kala wasthe it was probably going to happen in the center of place of the slave market. Bukhara and Khiva were this once-busy square. The medrassah is mostly famous for their slave trade. The nomadic tribes dedicated to it’s namesake, the Khan Mohammed moving through the desert and earning their living Rakhim who managed to keep Khiva independent by robbery were reliable suppliers of slaves. from inﬁltration by British and Russian forces un- • South Gate (Dascht Darwase) is probably the least til the late 19th century. On the south side of the used, except by locals who live inside the Ichon- square is a tiny, but interesting museum dedicated Qala, or for those staying at the Khiva Asia Hotel; to traditional music.

• West Gate (Ata Darwase), which is the main exit • Kalta Minor (next to the Orient Star Hotel). This and entry point for almost all of the visitors.” squat minaret is an iconic symbol of Khiva, mainly because of it’s exquisite blue and green tile work and • Kuhna Ark (in the western part of the old city, the fact that it remains unfinished. It was originally directly across Orient Star Khiva Hotel). Khivan supposed to rival the Kalon Minaret in Bukhara, rulers commanded from this fortress-residence from however the architect fled before seeing it finished, as early as the 12th century up to the 17th century fearing he would be put to death by the khan. Tech- when the khans expanded the structure to include nically, you aren't allow to climb to the top of this a mosque, a harem, and a jail. After you see the minaret, but guards have been known to give visitors see the gorgeous open-air, blue-tiled mosque, check “unofficial” tours of the interior structure, for a fee. out the throne room where the khans dispensed Kalta Minor dates from the 19th cent. Apparently swift and brutal punishments against any transgres- it has never been completed. It is 14 m in diameter sors. The three doors across from the throne decided at its base and 26 m high. According to the leg- your fate: the left door meant freedom, the center end Amir Khan intended to build a minaret from the door meant imprisonment, and the right door meant top of which he could see to Buchara, 400 km away. death. Above the throne room is a lookout tower After his death in 1855 the construction works came where you can capture a great view of entire Ark to a halt. The varied pattern of coloured glazed tiles structure. Be sure to pay a visit to the jail, located in white, blue, green and a brownish yellow form a just outside the entrance to the Ark, where you'll see perfect harmony. gruesome paintings that depict the various ways the khans meted out punishment. Most of the buildings • Juma Mosque. The old mosque was already men- date from the 17th cent. The fortress covers an area tioned by the Arab traveller Mohammed al-Magisi of 130 x 90 m and was enclosed by a fortification in the 10th cent. According to the inscriptions above wall 9 m high. Have a close look at the well pre- the entrance the actual mosque was built in the 18th served Summer Mosque. The glazed blue and white cent. It covers an area of 55 x 46 m. The inte- tiles are peculiar for the decoration used in Khiva. rior is square in plan. It has two octagonal open- The ornaments in the form of stars and the floral and ings in the ceiling. Apart from wooden beams and vegetable patterns clearly differ from those used in columns it has no decoration. It contains 212 or- Buchara. The mihrab in the southern wall with quo- nately carved columns that support the roof, dat- tations from the Quran is especially beautiful. Its ing back to the 12th to 15th century. The wooden tiles date from the 19th cent. In the corner on the columns were removed from other buildings which left hand stood the minbar on top of which quota- have been destroyed. The columns are masterpieces tions from the Quran in Kuft script can still be seen. of wood carving. The whole surface is covered by The tiles in the Reception Hall in green and white leaves, flowers and tendrils. If you watch cloisels you 38 CHAPTER 12. KHIVA

can see pomegranates blossoms and acanthus leaves. work, the wooden columns and the glazed tiles make The columns are peculiar in form: they are spheri- Pahlawan Mahmud Mausoleum to the best museum cal at their base, get a little bit narrower and end with of applied arts in Khiva. a part similar to an oblong drinking glass. In some columns the base is a square marble or a round piece • Islam Khoja Minaret. The minaret is 45 m high of wood only. Similar carved columns were not only and 10 m wide atb its base. It was built in 1908, used in palaces and mosques, but also in farmers’ however using the same methods as the much older houses where they carry the roof of the verandah. It minarets at Bukhara, Wabkent and Konye Urgench. is reported that these wooden columns are the oldest You can see the minaret from every place in Khiva in Central Asia. Tradition says that they come from and even from far away in the desert. It is probable the Great Mosque of Kat, the former capital of old that the minaret served military purposes as well. Is- Choresmia. Research has proved that 15 of the deta lam Khoja was great vizier of Khan Asfendijar. He to the 10th to 14th cent. Be sure to bring some sort undertook moderate reforms, opened the first secu- of light if you plan to climb the 81 steps up to the lar school and the first hospital and introduced mail top of the Juma minaret, which you can access from and railways. Khan Asfendijar ruled from 1910 to inside. Even if you buy the all-access 10000 sum 1920. He mistrusted everyone. He stayed in a mir- pass, you'll have to pay an extra fee if you want to ror hall, observed all persons arriving through the enter this mosque. mirrors and called the palace guards on the most tri- fling occasions. But to the greatest extent he feared • Pahlawan Mahmud Mausoleum (south of Juma his own vizier. Thus, he ordered that nobody was Mosque). The mausoleum is one of the most pop- allowed to leave his house in order to pray for the ular places of pilgrimage in Uzbekistan. Pahlawan health and the spiritual welfare of the khan. He Mahmud (“the strong man”) was famous for his ex- called for Islam Khoja, kept him in his palace un- traordinary bravery, physical strength as well as his til dark and on his way home Islam Khoja was killed good nature. He was a furrier, but also a wrestler, by bandits. 3000 UZS. doctor, poet and saint. The people gave him the title • Shirgiz Khan Medressa (in the center of Ichan- “Pahlavan”, meaning brave and handsome hero, as Kala, near Pahlawan Mahmud Mausoleum). This he defended the poor and is said to have had mys- is the oldest Quran school in Khiva. It was built in tical powers. Pahlavan Mahmud is also revered in 1718/19. Tradition says that it was constructed by Persia and India. His grave became an important slaves captured by Shigaziz Khan during his expe- shrine for pilgrims and became the burial place of dition to Meshed from which he returned with five the Khans of Khiva. Tradition says that the first thousand slaves. He promised them to be released building was erected over Pahlavan Mahmud fur- when the medressa was completed, but he delayed rier’s shop. The present building was erected in the the completion again and again, asking new services 18th cent. It covers an area 100 x 50 m wide, on from the hungry slaves again and again. In 1726 the which the saint’s grave, prayer rooms, a pilgrims’ slaves killed him in the unfinished medressa. lodge, a summer and a winter mosque have been built. According to an inscription the building was • Medressa Muhammed Amin Khan (opposite erected by architect Abdullah Djin. It is considered Kunja Ark). This medressa is the largest in Khiva. as one of the most important buildings of Islamic Its facade is made of coloured brick and mosaics. Central Asia due to its interior totally covered with The main characteristics of the building are the hu- glazed tiles and due to its artfully facade. In the jiras (students’ cells). Khan Muhammed Alim was 19th cent. the mausoleum became a necopolis of one of the most important khans of Khiva. The the princes of the Kungrat dynasty. It is consid- medressa was built in 1851/52 and the khan died ered as the last great mausoleum building in Central 1855 in a battle against the Turkmen. The Hun- Asia. The southern entrance is the oldest part of the garian traveller Vambery reported that the medressa present building. It has an inscription on the wooden had 250 pupils. door indicating the date 1701. The mausoleum has an oval turquoise dome with white ornaments on the • Ak Mosque (near the eastern gates of Ichan Kala). lower edges. Within the mausoleum are the richly The mosque was founded in 1657, but the present decorated sarcophagus of Khan Mohammed Rahim building dates from the 19th cent. Tradition tells and two sarcophagi of black marble of the historian that it was founded in honour of Khan Anush Mo- Khan Abu Al Gazi who died in 1663 and of Khan hammed after he had saved his father ABu al Anush who died in 1681. Beside the prayer room Ghazi’s life. It consists of a monumental hall with a is the crypt with the grave of Pahlavan Mahmud. dome above it and wooden aiwans on three sides. It The walls are covered with ornaments all over, de- is rather small with a base of 6,5 x 6,5 m. The cubi- picting interlacing stalks of flowers, leaves and zig- form substructure and the dome are painted white. zag or crossing lines. The wooden door with ivory Ak Mosque meaning “white mosque”. Beside the 12.8. EAT 39

mosque is a small minaret with beautiful carved 12.8 Eat wooden doors. • Zerafshan Chaikhana, Islom Hoja (in the old Tolib • Bogbonli Mosque (south east of Shirgaziz Khan Maksum Medressa, near Islam Hojar minaret, serv- Mosque). The mosque was built in the 19th cent.l, ing specialities from Khorezm), ☎ 3757051. 1 500 but wooden columns of the 15th cent. were used for UZS. it’s aiwan. • Bir Gumbaz, Pahlavon Mahmud (in an old mosque • Seid Allaudin Mausoleum (between Muhammad in the old quarter Ichon-Qala), ☎ 3753026. fine view Amin Khan and Matniyaz Divan Begi medressas). of the Kalta Minor 2 000 UZS. Seid Allaudin Mausoleum is considered one of the • Farrukh, Pahlavon Mahmud (in the old quarter oldest buildings at Khiva, dating from the period of Ichon-Qala). with a decorated yurt, nice atmo- the rule of the Mongols. It was erected by Emir Kul- sphere, 2 000 UZS. jall to honour his teacher Seid Allaudin (Said Ala ad Din) who was a leader of the Naqshbandi order. • Parvoz, Mustaqilik 5 (outside the old town, in Emir Kuljall died in 1380, Seid Allaudin in 1303. Dishon-Qala). 1 000 UZS. The door of the mausoleum has fine wood carvings. Seid Allaudin’s tomb is richly decorated with glazed • Khorezm Art Restaurant, Medrese Allakulikhan, tiles with floral motives in white against a dark or ☎ 3752455. common project of German Em- light blue background. bassy in Tashkent, Deutscher Volkshochschulver- band, Deutscher Entwicklungsdienst and Khiva Center for Development of Business and Tourism, 12.5.2 Dichon-Qala'(Dishan Kala) Salads at 2000 UZS, soups 6000 UZS, mains from 8000 UZS (2012). The Dichon-Qala and surrounding areas contain only a handful of historical sights, but still have some interesting attractions including Friendship Park, Independence 12.9 Drink Square, as well as a long stretch of ancient secondary wall that snakes it’s way around the outskirts of the city. As in whole Uzbekistan please buy only bottled water. Carefully check bottom of the bottle for any deposits otherwise you can buy counterfeit bottled water. 12.6 Do 12.10 Sleep • Fashion and Traditional Dance Show, in the Al- loquli Khan Medressa. in the high season at dusk, one show 5000S, both shows 7000S, with dinner Most of the hotels lie within the Ichon-Qala, with a few 10000S (2007) exceptions. Homestays are a good idea if you happen to be on a budget and it’s a great way to meet locals and experience the almost overwhelming hospitality that is unique to Uzbekistan and Central Asia. If you're coming with a 12.7 Buy tour group, you're guaranteed a spot in one of the more “upscale” tourist hotels. There are many souvenir vendors in Khiva and they all will want to sell something to you, trying to attract your attention with some knowledge of English. Sou- 12.10.1 Budget venirs might be more expensive than in Samarkand and • Islambek, Tosjpolatov 60 (folklore shows in the Bukhara, but you can bargain quite a lot and get some evening, roof terrace), ☎ 3753023. US$ 15-20. very good deals. A good place to buy is the UNESCO-sponsored silk • Arkhonchi, P.Makmud STr 10 (the first privately workshop in Qqozi Kalon Medressa. It sells unique silk owned hotel in Khiva with a superb view on the old handcrafts. Although they might be more expensive than town), ☎ 3752230. in other places, you support the workers there directly: • Sobir Arkonchi, S.Markasi Str 1 (outside of the old • Khiva Silk Carpet Workshop, Pahlavon Mahmud, town, near the Northern Gate and the trollybus stop), ☎ 3757264. Mon to Fri 09:00 to 18:00. If you are ☎ 3758766. lucky you can watch live carpet making which, for a complete carpet, takes three months of work. • Zafarbek, Tashpulatov Str 28, ☎ 3756038. 40 CHAPTER 12. KHIVA

• Isaak Hoja, A. Rachmanov Str 70 (with a superb • Malika Kheivak, 10 Islam Khodja (next to the Islam view of the Western Gate and city walls), ☎ 3759283. Khoja minaret). Like the Orient Star, this hotel is one of the newer ones in Khiva and sits right near the center of the major historical structures. Along with • B&B Meros, A.Boltaeva Str 57, ☎ 3757642. a restaurant and bar, the Malika Kheivak is one of the few hotels in Khiva with internet access. There • B&B Mirzaboshi, P.Makhmud Str 1, ☎ 3752753. is a nice view on Khiva Old Town from the roof terrace. ~71 000 som (single) ~100 000 som (double). • B&B Lali Opa, Kalantarov Str, ☎ 3754449.

• Asia Khiva, Kadir Yaqubova (outside the South • B&B Otabek, Islam Hoja Str 3, ☎ 3756177. gate), ☎ 3752098. What the hotel doesn't offer in location (it’s sits in a rather dusty and barren field • B&B Ganishon Afanshi, P.Makhmud Str 3 (in a looking directly at the South wall of the Ichon-Qala) traditional house in the old city), ☎ 6759569. it more than makes up for in amenities. The Asia Khiva is one of the newer hotels in town and offers a full-service restaurant, satellite television, internet, 12.10.2 Mid range and probably the best excuse to visit Khiva in the dead of summer: a swimming pool with poolside • Malika Khiva, 19A, P. Kori (just outside the West bar service. ~67 000 som (single) ~105 000 som gate), ☎ 3752665, e-mail: [email protected]. (double). Designed in the same style as the Orient Star Khiva, this hotel feels like you are staying in an ancient madrassah (except for the fact that it was built in 2004.) The hotel sits on a narrow cooling pond that has paddle boats (of questionable safety) for rental. 12.11 Stay safe Great views of the West gate and Khiva’s minarets at sunset. ~64 000 som (single) ~85 000 som (double). Because of the nature of Khiva’s importance as a tourist town, most of the staff and locals will go out of their way • Malika Khorezm, 5 Center (near the north gate to keep you safe. In and around the Ichon-Qala, your of the old town and near the trolleybus stop), ☎ biggest risk is being asked by local elementary school 3755451. Before the fall of the Soviet Union, this children for gifts like pens, in which they will probably was the only hotel travelers could stay in while visit- be shooed away by a stern adult. Take the usual precau- ing Khiva, as it was sanctioned by Intourist, the of- tions of watching your valuables and you'll be fine. ficial Soviet travel agency. It has since undergone a In the Dichon-Qala, especially in the late evening or at massive renovation, which scrubbed away all traces night, you may run the risk of being harassed by local of Soviet nostalgia, and is now almost identical in drunk men. However, these incidents are rare and the appearance and quality to the Malika Khiva. ~64 perpetrators are easily scared away with a few stern words 000 som (single) ~85 000 som (double). (in any language). Aside from the main road, Khiva gets very dark at night, so carry a flashlight with you if you • Schachrizofa, Islam Hoja Str 35 (boutique hotel plan on exploring the town in the evening or having dinner with nice wood carvings), ☎ 3759532. outside the city walls. Take the usual precautions when drinking from local water sources, but make sure to stay hydrated, especially in 12.10.3 Splurge the summer. The heat bouncing off the mud walls can make Khiva feel like a broiler sometimes, and you can • Orient Star Khiva, 1 Paklavan Makhmud (next to easily run the risk of heat exhaustion. the Kalta Minor). A charming hotel inside the converted Mohammed Amin Khan madrassah allows guests to stay in “cells” that were once occupied by Islamic scholars. Since this was the primary hotel inside the Ichon-Qala during Soviet times (formerly 12.12 Connect the Hotel Khiva) the outstanding feature of this hotel is location, location, location - it sits right inside the West gate - which is why it’s more expensive than • Wifi internet, at Cafe Kheyvak (near the Islam some of the other hotels in Khiva. ~64 000 som (sin- Hadja madressa). minimum spend of 3,000 som on gle) ~107 000 som (double). food and drinks 12.13. GO NEXT 41

12.13 Go next

• Bukhara - Once the historic rival of Khiva, Bukhara boasts an impressive old city with lots of interesting alleyways, buildings, and shopping. Check out the Jewish Quarter, one of the last bastions of the Judaism in Central Asia, and the towering Kalon Minaret, where the Khan of Bukhara executed prisoners by tossing them out of the top window.

• Nukus - The capital of the nominally autonomous Republic of Karakalpakstan sits on the remote frontier of Uzbekistan. Nukus looks like a planned Soviet city (in fact, it was host the Red Army’s Chemical Ressearch Institute) but is also home to the Nukus Museum of Art - commonly referred to as the Savitsky Museum - which houses the second largest collection of Russian avant-garde artwork in the world, second only to the Russian Museum in St. Petersburg. A rare gem of a museum in the middle of practically nowhere and a must-see.

• The Aral Sea and Moynaq - If ecological disasters interest you, then checking out the Aral Sea should be high on your list. Once the 4th largest saline body of water in the world, the Aral Sea has steadily di- minished over the last 50 years due to past Soviet agricultural planning and current water management practices by several Central Asian countries. Moy- naq, once a thriving ﬁshing town, now sits about 250km from the current coastline and is a haunting reminder of the environmental devastation.

• Urgench - The capital of Khorezm doesn't have much to oﬀer in the way of sights, but it is a great launching point for trips to Khiva, Nukus, and the surrounding areas. There are a few old fortresses in the deserts surrounding Urgench as well as a few ancient Zoroastrian archaeological sites. Chapter 13

Moynoq

Moynoq is a city in Qaraqalpakistan. This town used sea. He will refuse donations, preferring that you to be a prosperous fishing town, but since the Aral Sea spread the word about the sea. disaster it is a poor town with lots of problems, not least health risks caused by pollution and unemployment, as • There is a museum with intermittent hours and a low fishery was the only resource. entry cost. It has an interesting exhibit about the history of the sea and the problems caused by its de- struction. 13.1 Get in • The fish factory, which used to provide work and now is abandoned, the equipment left there to rust. You can get there from Nukus. Taxis charge about US$60 for a day-trip from Nukus, which can be shared among up to 3 passengers in comfort. In summer, be sure to hire a car with aircon. And always bargain politely over the 13.4 Do price, which must be agreed before departure. There are two buses a day from Nukus, leaving at 9.00 am 13.5 Buy and 11.00 am. Arrive early as they get filled up quickly. The price is 5500 sum. 13.6 Eat

13.2 Get around 13.7 Drink

On foot or by taxi - it is not a big town. 13.8 Sleep

13.3 See • Hotel Oybek, 30 Kazakhbayev str, ☎ +998-61- 3221868. The only hotel in town, it provides registration. Don't expect anything comparable to west- A tour from Nukus will take you to all the interesting ern standards. Rates starts at 7000 som. places.

• The monument for the Aral Sea - there is a monu- 13.9 Stay safe ment near what used to be a bank of the Aral Sea with a board telling the history of Aral Sea. Al Gore has visited this monument. There is also a Avoid drinking tap water. The water supply is heavily ﬂeet of rusted trawlers there, still lined up in the polluted with defoliants, pesticides and fertiliser. desert where once the quay stood. You can walk down to the old sea bed and explore the boats. A better-preserved trawler is nostalgically displayed at 13.10 Connect the bus station. As of 2008, the Aral Sea was 100 km. distant, and still shrinking, the level dropping about a metre per year. The man who maintains the 13.11 Go next memorial might talk to you. He used to be the cap- tain of a ﬁshing boat - he last went to sea in 1978, There is at least one bus everyday which leave Moynoq at which was the last time Moynaq had access to the 3.00 pm and cost 5500 sum. Ask around in the bus station

42 13.11. GO NEXT 43 in Nukus to comﬁrm this as it seem to change quickly. Chapter 14

Nukus

Nukus is a city in Qaraqalpakistan, Uzbekistan. It is the 14.1.2 By rail capital of the region. However, even by Uzbek standards the town is fairly decrepit and most travellers only stay Trains depart from Tashkent twice a week and head for one night in order to see the Savitsky gallery. Kungrad via Samarkand on the way; these trains stop at Nukus station. Note however that there is direct train between Nukus and Urgench (for Khiva) as Urgench is on a diﬀerent branch line. 14.1 Get in 14.1.3 By car

Shared taxis run to and from Urgench, which is a major interchange with taxi connections to Khiva, Bukhara, and the airport. You will probably need a local taxi between the taxi stand the hotels in the centre of Nukus.

14.2 Get around

Taxi’s are plentiful and cheap - a short hop in town should cost Som500 - 1000. Everything you'll want to see is in walking distance however.

• Aral Sea Nukus • Khiva • Urgench

14.1.1 By plane 14.3 See Uzbekistan Airways operates flights from • Karakalpak Museum of Arts, K. Rzaev St, ☎ +998 61 222 2556, e-mail: • Moscow Domodedovo International Airport on [email protected]. M-F 09:00-13:00 Mon 14:00-17:00, Sa-Su 10:00-16:00. Do not miss the Karakalpakstan State Museum of Art’s Igor • Tashkent Tashkent International Airport (TAS). Savitsky Collection with its unique collection Uzbekistan Airways flies Iluyshin IL-114s (2:45h) of many thousands of works by dissenting artists and Airbus A320s (1:45h) twice a day to Nukus Air- from the Soviet Union during the period in which port (NCU) Stalinist socialist realism was the only permitted form of Soviet art. The documentary film The Desert of Forbidden Art is all about the collection Flying an IL-114 is an adventure itself. They fly slower and its history. Many travelers believe this is the and lower allowing great views of the Kyzyl Kum desert, only compelling reason to visit Nukus. 25,000 sum the planes are in reasonable conditions. (students: 15,000 sum). (updated May 2015)

44 14.8. SLEEP 45

14.8 Sleep

Note: the prices in dollars are higher than prices in Uzbek sums. And the hotels will want you to pay in dollars, not in sums (except in Nukus Hotel).

• Jipek Jolly Hotel. It is quite nice and clean. The shower and toilet are for two rooms. The shower is not that good, but as long as you have hot water, it’s tolerable. Note, however, that the water is often just turned oﬀ. US$15 single room, $20 double room. (updated May 2015) The Art Museum • Nukus Hotel. In the double and triple rooms, Nearby is the Museum of Applied Arts showing there is a good chance that someone will turn up at local fabrics, traditional clothing and jewelry. The 11.30pm and snore in the bed next to you, so you Karakalpak State Museum exhibits examples of nat- may want to book all the beds for privacy. Ask to ural history, including the very last Turan Tiger, caught see your room before paying, the quality varies (in in 1972. particular the bathrooms). Air-con is consistently “just being repaired”, water supply is uncertain, and in any case it is preferable to use bottled mineral 14.4 Do water—even to brush your teeth. About $12 for a bed in a double or triple room. (updated May 2015)

Due to being the closest major city to the Aral Sea, Nukus • Hotel Tashkent, Berdakha 59 (just south of the is a good place to start trips to the shore and to Moynoq. main market - its a big tower overlooking the traf- The former ﬁshing town is some 200km away and a wit- ﬁc circle), ☎ +998 61 224 18 28. This big gloomy ness of the dying Aral Sea. Its main “attraction” is the Soviet tower is not that bad by Nukus standards, but infamous ship graveyard. A taxi from Nukus to Moy- pretty crappy otherwise. $25-ish. naq costs around $70, asking price in Hotels is around $100. For a day trip, start early as it is 3-3,5 hrs one way. Marshrutkas also go to Moynaq via Kungrad. 14.9 Taxi

14.5 Buy If looking for taxi to Dying Aral Sea you may contact +99861 7178779. There is a huge sprawling market near the bus station, selling the usual range of cheap consumer goods, clothing and food. Most of it is under cover and hence not a bad 14.10 Go next place to wander during the heat of the day. Armed with a camera and a polite 'Mogu li ya snyatʹ vashu fotograﬁyu?' 14.10.1 By plane (may I take your photograph) you can get some very atmospheric pictures. Uzbekistan Airways operates ﬂights to

• Moscow Domodedovo International Airport on 14.6 Eat Mon, • There are few options in town - both the Mona Lisa, and Tashkent the Sheraton restaurants, listed in a popular guidebook, have shut / never existed. Searching around you will 14.10.2 By shared taxi ﬁnd acceptable kebab places, such as the one just east of the Savitsky museum (42°27'54.03"N, 59°37'11.17"E, Shared taxis from the South Bus Station leave to on the corner of Rashidova & Dosnazarov).

• Urgench $10-$12 per seat, 2 hrs 14.7 Drink Chapter 15

Toprak-Kala

Toprak-Kala is an archaeological site in the autonomous of the ruler formed the center of the settlement, un- republic of Qaralpakstan in Eastern Uzbekistan. derlining the power of the central government.

15.1 Understand 15.4 See

Toprak Kale is an excavated town dating back to the 1st 15.5 Do to 5th cent. AD and is considered as the most important monument on Chorezm from the Kushan time. It’s ground plan is 500m x 300m and it was surrounded by a 15.6 Buy wall made of bricks, 10 to 15 m high. The King’s Palace in the north western part of the town was built on an elevated 15.7 Eat base rising about 15 m above the rest of the town. Three monumental towers, 25 m high, still exist. In front of the palace was the temple area with the holy ﬁre. The town 15.8 Drink was divided by streets into several districts with blocks of dwellings with 150 to 200 rooms. The Kings’s Hall covered an area of 280 square meters. The wall paintings and 15.9 Sleep monumental clay sculptures were the works of a school of arts which could develop a particular Chorezmian style • Ayaz Kala Yurt Camp (about 100 km from Khiva, under the inﬂuence of Graceo-Bactrian art. The rooms 70 km from Urgench, 150 km from Nukus.). Ac- of the palace had colourful wall paintings. The fortress cess from Khiva and Urgench is via a pontoon bridge is considered as the palace of the shah of Chorezm. In over the Amu Darya River. The yurts are on a hill the ruins of Toprak Kale a great number of Kushan and about 30 meters high. The ancient fortresses of Chorezm coins dating from the 2nd to the 5th cent. and Ayaz Kala are nearby. The yurts can accommodate small copper discs with portraits of the rules of Chorezm 20 to 25 persons. US$ 60 per person incl. three and written documents on wooden plates or on skins, the meals of dishes of Karalpak, Kazakh and Uzbek cui- most ancient documents in this area, were found. sine, camel ride US$6 per person.

15.2 Get in 15.10 Connect

15.3 Get around 15.11 Go next

• Ajas Kale is situated 20 km north east of Toprak Kale. Ajas Kale was settled in the 1st cent. AD. The settlement demonstrates the social change in the Kushan time, when clans disintegrated into individ- ual families. The fortress was erected on a rock. Be- low were several unfortiﬁed farmsteads, each having a dwelling-house with 10 to 15 rooms, in which only one family lived. Instead of the temple the fortress

46 Chapter 16

Urgench

Urgench is a city in Khorezm, in Uzbekistan. 16.1.4 By car

Inter-city “taxi” services are essentially a collection of in- 16.1 Get in formal drivers who wait to fill up their cars with passengers and then drive them off to their destinations. They usually charge per passenger; however, you can buy all the 16.1.1 By air seats in a car (typically 1 in the front and 3 in the back) if you're willing to spend the cash. From Bukhara, the next Uzbekistan Airways operates twice daily flights from closest Silk Road site, the 460km trip in a shared taxi Tashkent (operated by RJ-85, Airbus 320 and sometimes should cost between 50,000-80,000 sum per person [Sep IL 114, flying time 1:30 hrs) and a flight on Saturday (op- 2012]. The price can sometimes depend on the type of erated by B-757, flying time 1:40 hrs, return flight on Sun- vehicle you're negotiating for, with Daewoo Ticos cost- days). Flights (as per May 2011) were about 275,000 sum ing less and Daewoo Nexia and Matiz brands costing a bit for return ticket ans about 139,000 sum (€ 43) for a sin- more. gle ticket. You can also reach Urgench on Fridays on Uzbek- istan Airways via Domodedovo International Airport in Moscow. 16.2 Get around

16.1.2 By train 16.3 See

The brand new Urgench Train Station. has daily night trains to and from Tashkent that make the 19 hour journey 16.4 Do across the desert with one major stop along the way in Samarkand. For departure times see the Uzbekistan#Get 16.5 Buy around section. Taxis from [Urgench] Railway Station to Khiva are about 7,000 som one way. For the Trolley Bus see below. 16.6 Eat

16.1.3 By bus 16.7 Drink If you're really budgeting your cash, you can catch a bus to Urgench from the Hippodrome station in Tashkent. The 16.8 Sleep good news is the journey doesn't take much longer than the train (20 hours) and is only about 20,000 sum. The • bad news is you'll be sitting in a cramped space without Chorezm Palace Hotel, 2, Al Beruni Str, ☎ toilets (the driver decides when to make a pit stop) and 229402, 49301. four star hotel in the city cen- minimal ventilation, and no air conditioning. tre with 100 rooms, restaurant, lobby bar, sauna, jacuzzi and swimming pool There are daily buses from Bukhara to Urgench, leaving from Bukhara Avtovoksal. The busses have no air condition. The journey time is about 8 hours and the price about 15,000 UZS on way [Sep 2012] . There is no ﬁxed 16.9 Connect timetable, the buses leave, when all seats are occupied.

47 48 CHAPTER 16. URGENCH

16.10 Go next

• Khiva - the historical city with the UNESCO World Heritage Centre of Itchan Kala Chapter 17

Samarkand through Bukhara

Samarkand through Bukhara is the most visited and 17.8.1 Itineraries most famous region of the historic Silk Road through Central Asia. It is comprised of the Uzbekistani 17.9 Do provinces of Samarkand and Bukhara, naturally, as well as the southern portion of Navoiy Province. It corresponds approximately with the ancient kingdom of 17.10 Eat Sogdia. 17.11 Drink 17.1 Regions 17.12 Stay safe 17.2 Cities 17.13 Go next • Bukhara • Kattakurgan • Navoi • Samarkand

17.3 Other destinations

17.4 Understand

17.5 Talk

Tajik is the main language since the a large Tajik minor- ity lives in Samarqand and Bukhara regions. Uzbek and Russian are the second languages. However, there are no signs in Tajik and few signs in Rus- sian. Most are in Uzbek.

17.6 Get in

17.7 Get around

17.8 See

49 Chapter 18

Bukhara

18.1 Understand

18.1.1 History

Legend of Siavash

According to the legend Bukhara was founded by King Siavash, a legendary Persian prince from the beginnings of the Persian Empire. After the treason of his step- mother Sudabeh, who accused him that he wanted to se- duce her and betray his father, Siavash went into exile to Turan. Afrasiab, the King of Samarkand, married his daughter Ferganiza(Farangis) to him and granted him a vassal kingdom in the oasis of Bukhara. Later, Siavash was accused that he wanted to overthrow King Afrasiab and was executed in front of his wife. Siavash’s father sent Rostam, the legendary Persian hero to Turan and Rostam brought Ferganiza (Farangis) and their son Kai Khosrow back to Persia.

Pre-Islamic times

The history of Bukhara can be traced back to the 4th or 5th cent. AD, the date of the ﬁrst coins with Sogdian writing in an alphabet derived from Aramaic. There are no reports of a city in the area of Bukhara at the time of Alexander the Great. Chor Minor Madrassah

From the Arab invasions to the Mongols

At the time of the Arab conquests, Bukhara was ruled by Bukhara (also spelled Bokhara, Bukhoro, or Buxoro) in the Sogdian dynasty of the Bokar-kodats. Arab armies Uzbekistan was historically one of the great trading cities ﬁrst appeared before Bukhara in the caliphate of Moawia, along the Silk Road. The city center is a UNESCO World after Obayd-Allāh b. Zīād b. Abīhe crossed the Oxus Heritage Site. (53-54/673-74). Bukhara was ruled by a woman, Katun, In Sanskrit the word Bukhara means “abbey”. Bukhara as regent for her infant son. She had to submit and to -"The city of museums”, contains more than 140 archi- pay a tribute of a million dirhams and 4,000 slaves. Per- tectural monuments of the Middle Ages. Such ensembles manent Arab control in the city was established by Qo- as Poi - Kalan, Kosh Madras, mausoleum of Ismail Sa- tayba b. Moslem Baheli, who after arduous campaigns moni, minaret of Kalyan and others were built 2300 years in Sogdia (87-90/706-09) overcame the resistance of the ago, and today they attract the great attention of tourists. Bukharans and their Turkish allies and placed an Arab The famous poets like Narshahi, Rudaki Dakiki and oth- garrison in the city, forcing every home owner to share ers have played an important role in the development of his residence with Arabs. In 94/712-13 he erected the Bukhara. ﬁrst mosque in Bukhara within the citadel, on the site of

50 18.2. GET IN 51

a former Buddhist or Zoroastrian temple. In 166/782, the The Khanate of Bukhara governor of Khorasan Fażl b. Solayman Ṭusi built walls to protect Bukhara against Turkish attacks. The Khanate of Bukhara came into existence after the In the 3rd/9th cent. the notables of Bukhara asked the conquest of Samarkand and Bukhara by Muhammad Samanid ruler of Samarqand and Farḡāna Nasr b.Ahmad Shaybani. The Shaybanid Dynasty ruled the khanate for help, who in 260/874 sent his younger brother Is- from 1506 until 1598. Under their rule Bukhara be- mail to the city. Bukhara enjoyed a period of pros- came a center of arts and literature. Bukhara attracted perity lasting for 150 years and under the patronage of skilled craftsmen of calligraphy and miniature painting, the Samanid amirs served as a cultural center for Ara- poets and theologians. Abd al-Aziz Jhan (1533-1550) bic learning and Persian literature. A passage by Taalebi, established a library “having no equal”. The khanate of the famous scholar of Nisapur, praises Bukhara in the era Bukhara reached its greatest influence under Abdullah of the Samanids as “the focus of splendour, the Kaba of Khan II, who reigned from 1577 to 1598. the empire, the meeting-place of the unique figures of the The Khanate of Bukhara was governed by the Janid Dy- age, the rising-place of the stars of the literary men of the nasty (Astrakhanids) in the 17th and 18th cent. It was world, and the forum for the outstanding per sonages of conquered by Nadir Shah of Iran in 1740. After his death the time”. Geographers from the Samanid period men- the khanate was controlled by descendants of the Uzbek tion the division of the city in a citadel (ko handez), the emir Khudayar Bi through the position of “ataliq” (prime town proper (sahrestan) and a suburb (rabat). The citadel minister). The khanate became the Emirate of Bukhara contained the palace and the original mosque of Qotayba in 1785. b. Moslem. To its east, dividing it from the sahrestan, was the Rigestan, an open, sandy space, where Amir Naṣr b. Aḥmad (301-33/914-43) built a palace and where the dīvāns of the administration were situated. In this cen- 18.2 Get in tury, an outer wall with eleven gates was built. The city had clearly expanded, though geographers still criticize it 18.2.1 By plane as an unsanitary and crowded place. In 389/999 Bukhara was occupied by the Ilak (Ilig) Nasr The Bukhara International Airport (IATA:BHK). has b. Ali. For the next 150 years it was part of the west- daily flights to Tashkent ($50) plus a weekly flight to ern Qarakhanid khanate, ruled by descendants of the Ilak Urgench ($57) with Uzbekistan Airways. Other des- Nasr. Under the loose, decentralized rule of the Turk- tinations are Saint Petersburg with Rossiya Airlines or ish tribesmen, Bukhara lost its political importance. The Moscow with Transaero Airlines.Domestic tickets can reign of Arslan Khan Moḥammad b. Solayman (495- only be bought at the airport in US$. 524/1102-30) brought peace to the city. He also rebuilt the citadel and city walls, and erected a new Friday mosque and two new palaces. 18.2.2 By train

After the Mongol invasion The Bukhara Railway Station (Бухара 1). is located 9km southeast of the city in Kagan. Marshrutka 268 Bukhara was con quered by Gengiz Khan in 616/1220. is running to and from the city centre at Lyabi-Haus All inhabitants were driven out and the city was burned., stop. for 1000 som. There are two daily trains connect- but in the time of Ögedey Qaan (626-39/1229-41) the ing Bukhara with Tashkent via Samarkand. For departure city was prosperous again. Ögedey placed the adminis- times see the Uzbekistan#Get around section. tration of all the settled regions of Central Asia in the hands of a Muslim merchant trusted by the Mongols, who resided in Ḵojand and reported directly to the supreme 18.2.3 By bus or taxi khan. The revival of prosperity of Bukhara may have been due to his eﬀorts. He was succeeded at Bukhara Buses and taxis to Tashkent and Samarkand leave from by his son Masud Beg, who remained in authority until the Northern Bus Station (about 3 km north of the his death in 688/1289, despite feuds among the Mongol city center near the Karvon Bazaar). A seat in a bus successor states and repeated shifts in their borders within to Tashkent costs about UZS 20000 and the journey Central Asia. Masud Beg was buried in the madrasa that to Tashkent takes about 11 hours. A seat in a bus to he had built at Bukhara. The skilled craftsmen inhabiting Samarkand costs about UZS 15000 and the journey to Bukhara were apportioned among the four divi sions of Samarkand takes about 5 hours. A seat in a shared taxi the Mongol empire), each belonging to one of Genghis to Samarkand costs about UZS 25000 and the journey to Khan’s sons and his descendants; each division was en- Samarkand takes about 3 hours. A seat in a shared taxi titled to revenues from the portion of the population as- to Tashkent costs about UZS 30000 and the journey to signed to it. Samarkand takes about 7 hours. [Aug 2012] 52 CHAPTER 18. BUKHARA

Buses and taxis to Urgench and Khiva leave from Kar- • Chor-Bakr (6 km west of Bukhara). 9AM-8PM. von Bazaar. A seat in a shared taxi to Urgench costs necropolis from the 16th cent., heavily restored about UZS 70.000 and the journey takes about 4 and a half hours. The buses have irregular schedule and they come from Tashkent so you might be standing. Bus 2 or 18.4 Talk 21 will bring you from the train station to the North Bus Station and Karvon Bazaar. [Aug 2012]. The main language of Bukhara is the Tajik dialect of Per- Shared taxis to Karshi, Shakhrizabz, Termiz and Denau sian. Russian is the second language and Uzbek is used on the Tajik border leave from the Sharq Bus Station but to a lesser extant. Bukhara, along with Samarqand (east of the center). A seat to Karshi (1.5h) costs 6000 and other cities in Central and Southern Uzbekistan have som, to Shakhrizabz (4h) 12,000 som, to Termiz (6h) been historically populated by Ethnic Tajiks and Bukhar- 20,000 som and Denau (6h) 25,000 som. ian Jews who spoke Tajik along with their own dialects To Turkmenistan border you have to take a shared taxi or which today include some Uzbek and a lot of Russian loan marshrutka from the Kolkhozny Bazaar. to Qarakol or words. Olot. A seat in a shared taxi costs about 2,000 som and the trip takes about 40 minutes. You will have to hire a taxi from here to the border for about 2,000 som. Olot is 18.5 See 7 km from the Uzbek-Turkmenistan border. A taxi from the border to Turkmenabat will cost about $0.50 and the trip will take 40 minutes.

18.2.4 By car

Bukhara is 560 km from Tashkent, 270 km from Samarkand, 470 km form Khiva, 920 km from Andizhan, 900 km from Fergana, 160 km from Karshi, 800 km from Kokand, 560 km from Nukus, 280 km from Shahrisabz, 380 km from Termez and 440 km from Urgench. To Khiva, you can take a collective taxi at 50,000 UZS per person in downtown or hire a private taxi for $70–80 per car. To Samarkand, you can hire a private taxi for $60. Alternatively you can make 2 day excursion including Ay- dar Kul Yurt for $120 per car. Some of the recommended private drivers include Fahkredine (based in Bukhara, owns Nexia) on+998 93 472 5060 or Shukhrat (based in Samarkand, owns Lacetti) on +998 66 265 5522. Both speak basic English.

18.3 Get around

The Old Town is where you want to be. The beauty of it is that there is no need at all for any form of transport other than your feet as the town is so small. Also, many of the streets are far too slim to allow cars down them. Kalon Minaret • Sitorai Mohi Hosa (Star and Moon Garden)(6 km north of Bukhara). Wed to Mon 9AM-5PM, Tue 9AM-2PM. summer palace of the last emir of • Kalon Minaret. It was built by the Karakhanid Bukhara 3600 UZS. ruler Arslan Khan in 1127. According to the legend Arslan Khan killed an imam. The imam asked the • Bakhautdin Naqshband Mausoleum (2 km east khan in a dream to lay the imam’s head on a spot of Bukhara). 8AM-7PM. one of the most important where nobody can tread on it. Thus the tower was Sufi shrines with the tomb of Bakhautdin Naqshband built over the imam’s grave. With a height of 47 m (14th cent.), the founder of the most influential Sufi it is Bukhara’s landmark. In its ornamental bands order in Central Asia free. the glazed blue tiles were used for the first time in 18.6. DO 53

Central Asia. It gets its nickname as the “Tower of • Kukeldash Medressa, Mekhtar Anbar st.. built by Death” because they once executed criminals by tak- Abdullah II., at the time the biggest Islamic school ing them to the top and pushing them out, leaving in Central Asia them to fall to their death. This practice stopped in • the early 1900s. Taqi Sarrafon. bazaar of the moneychangers • Taqi-Telpak Furushon. bazaar of the cap makers • Char Minor (four column mosque). A beautiful building tucked away in one of the lanes behind the • Taqi-Zaragon. bazaar of the jewellers Lyabi Hauz complex is the Char Minor. This build- • Maghoki Attar Mosque. the oldest surviving ing is now surrounded mainly by small houses and mosque in Central Asia, dating back to the 9th cent., shops on its perimeter. One may find an artisan or reconstructed in the 16th cent. two selling a fine piece of hand drawn paintings. • Faizullah Khojaev House, Tukaeva. Mon to Sat • Ark citadel, Registan Square. 9AM-6PM. From 9AM-5PM. 2000 UZS. the most ancient times the Ark was the fortified residence of the rulers of Bukhara. Everything could Historical and architectural monuments of Bukhara : • be found there - palaces, temples, barracks, offices, The Poi Kalyan Complex, • An Ensemble of Lyabi - the mint, warehouses, workshops, stables, an arse- Khauz, • Madrasah of Ulugbek, • Mausoleum of Sayfid- nal, and even a prison. Nowadays there are a few din Bukharzi and Bayan Quli, • The Kosh Madrasah En- museums inside. 4500 som without guide. semble, • The Palace of Emir of Bukhara “Sitorai Mohi Hossa”, • Chor-Bakr - the burial place of shih Jubaeri • Labi-havz. The Labi-havz is considered to be the family . And also: • An Ensemble of Bola - Hauz, • The center of the Old City. Plaza Labi-havz is derived Cemetery of Chashmoi - Ayub, • Madrasah of Abdulla - from Persian and means “ensemble near the pool”. han, • Madrasah of Madari - han, • The Mosque of Ba- The main element of this ensemble is the pool. The land (High), • An Ensemble of Gaukushon, • Honaka ensemble Labi-havz has three monumental struc- of Zaynutdin Hodji, • Hanaka of Nodir Divanbegi, • tures. Kukeldash madrassah (16th century) was Madrasah of Abdulaziz Han, • The Mosque of Bola Hauz, built by Abdullah II was, at the time, the biggest • The Mosque of Namazgoh, • Hanaka of Fayzabad Islamic School in Central Asia. Nadir Devanbegi Madrassah (16th century) was inteded to be a caravan saray, but according to the order of the ruler 18.6 Do Imam Kulimkhan, was reconstructed into a Madras- sah. Nadir Devanbegi Khanaka (winter mosque) • Hammam Borzi Kord, Taqi-Telpak Furushon. was built at the same time as the Labi-havz (16th Open for local men until 2PM then for tourists of century). mixed gender until midnight. one of Bukhara’s most famous hamomi (baths) 50,000 UZS includ- • Ismail Samani Mausoleum. The mausoleum was ing scrub and massage. built during the reign of Ismail Samani, one of the most outstanding members of the Samanids dynasty, • Hammom Kunjak, Ibidov 4. 7AM-6PM. The who ruled Bukhara from 892 until 907. Originally, women’s bathhose, near Kalon Minaret. UZS 3000. the mausoleum was intended for the grave of Is- mail Samani’s father, Akhmad, but later became the • Folklore and Fashion Show, Nadir Divanbegi burial vault of the Samanids. It was completed in Medressa. Apr/May 6:30PM, July/Aug 7PM, 905 and is the oldest Muslim monument in Bukhara. Sep/Oct 7:30PM. show with traditional music and It is considered as a masterpiece of early Islamic ar- dancing 10,500UZS for show only. chitecture.

• Chashma-Ayub mausoleum. Chashma-Ayub is 18.7 Buy located near the Samani mausoleum. Its name in Persian means Job’s spring due to the legend according to which Job (Ayub) visited this place and Bukhara is famous for rugs. Historically, rugs woven by brought forth a spring of water by the blow of his nomadic or village Turkomans were called “Bokhara car- staﬀ on the ground. The water of this well is still pets” because the city was a center for trading them. To- pure and is considered healing. The current build- day the city itself also produces many rugs. ing was constructed during the reign of Timur and features a Khwarazm-style conical dome uncommon • Tim Abdulla Khan, Hagigat (near Taqi-Telpaq Fu- in Bukhara. rushon Bazaar). 9AM-6PM. silk and carpets 54 CHAPTER 18. BUKHARA

a Bukharian Jew in the end of the 19th cent. In the courtyard, lepeshka (bread) and samsa (pastries) are prepared on a tandir (clay oven). lunch, dinner $8, folklore show $35.

• Guest House of Rustam Saidjanov (100 meters from Lyabi Hauz). Built at the second half of the 19th cent. by a merchant-moneychanger (sarrof) belonging to the middle class, this guest house is now run by the grandson of the archaeologist Prof. Musa Saidjanov. Guests might sit upon kurpacha (thin mattress) with velvet cushions at the dastarhan (low table).

• Lyabi-Khauz. 9:00–21:00. Decent cafe on the central square. Mains: 5000–8000 som (2011).

• Minzifa. 11:00–23:00. Terrace restaurant near Lyabi Hauz in Old Town. Great food and service by English speaking staﬀ. Live music and nice view. Prices are a bit higher than average. Mains: 7000– 8000 som (2011).

• Siyavush. 8:00–21:00. Mains: 5000 som (2011).

• Central Market. If you want to mingle with lo- A Bokhara carpet cals, go to the central market and try one of the small eateries in a huge building located across the • Unesco Carpet Weaving Shop, Eshoni Pir 57. street from the main entrance. They exclusively Mon to Sat 9AM-5PM. serve shashlyk. A decent portion of meat costs as low as 4000 som (2011). • Bukhara Artisan Development Center, Bakhaut- din Naqshband. • Food Market, in front of Lyabi-Hauz square. • Original Bukhara Scissors, Touristville (Lyobi This mini-market with the big sign “Food Mar- Khauz). ket” is NOT recommended as it always overcharges 30%−60%!

18.8 Eat 18.9 Drink Beware of scams! Travelers report unfair behavior and overcharged bills at Shaxriston restaurant (same street as • Silk Road Spices Tea House, 5 Halim Ibodov Str. Hammam Bozori Kord) and Asia Cafe (next to Lyabi serving spice and herbal tea, saﬀron and ginger tea, Hauz). coﬀee with cardamom, green and black tea as well as sweets (halva, qandalat and nabat). Highly rec- • BoloXauz Teahouse. Decent eatery not far from ommended! UZS 11000. the Boloxauz mosque. • Nughay Caravanserai Wine Tasting, Bakhautdin Naqshband 78. 11AM-9PM. wine shop and tasting • Caravan, 12 Mukhamad Ikbol Str. (500 m from rooms in a 18the cent. caravanserai Hotel Semurg), ☎ +998 65 3830505. European and Uigur dishes $4 to $12.

• Chashmai-Mirab. 11:00–21:00. Plov: 4000 som 18.10 Sleep (2011). There are numerous bed and breakfast places around the • Doston House, 5 K. Kalon Str. Uzbek guest- Lyabi Hauze complex. These are excellent for indepen- house situated in the old part of Bukhara, built by dent travellers. Rooms can be had quite cheap (less than 18.11. CONNECT 55

$20 per person but standards and prices vary place to conditionning, satellite TV and minibar, windows place), but make sure you look at a few before you make facing to an inner terrace, small restaurant with local your choice. Some of them are amazing houses set round and European cuisine. courtyards and provide an unforgettable experience much better than any hotel. You can also expect some top qual- • Buchara Palace Hotel, 8 Navoi Str, ☎ +998 65 ity breakfasts with fruit, bread, cheese, yoghurt, and an 2230024. four star hotel in the city center with 220 unlimited supply of tea! rooms, restaurant, swimming pool, night club and bar • Amelia Boutique Hotel, 1 Bozor Hodja Street (in the old center, close to the ensemble Lyabi Hauz), ☎ • Zargaron Plaza Hotel, 256m Nakshbandi Str, ☎ +998 65 2241263, +998 65 2242631. All rooms +998 65 2230352. four star hotel, built 2009, 2 kilo- have A/C, satellite TV, great bathroom facilities, meters from the city center, with 40 rooms, restau- fridge, hairdryer, phone with international access rant, bar and swimming pool and wi-Fi. The Hotel was Jewish merchant’s house built in 19th cent. near the “Synagogue” (Jewish • Zargaron Hotel, 8, Chakikat Str., ☎ +998 65 temple) in the city center (perfect location). single 2245821. three star hotel in the old town in the style US $35, double US $60. of the 19th century

• Hotel Grand Nodirbek, 10 Sarafon Street (25 me- • Hotel Mekhtar Ambar, 91, B.Nakshbandi St (be- ters from the Lyub-i-hauz ensemble), ☎ +998 65 tween Chor Minor and Labi Khauz), ☎ +998 65 224-3446. Nice Interior Courtyard, friendly recep- 2244168, e-mail: [email protected]. In a tionist named Fahreddin, satellite television (great if medrese from the 19th century, ten rooms decorated you understand Uzbek, Russian, or Turkmen), a/c. with antique suzanes and carpets, satellit. Bathrooms are extremely clean and modern. US $20-30 with breakfast. • Nasruddin Navruz Hotel, Babahanov 37. Cen- trally located and clean. All rooms have TVs and air • Hotel Malika, 25 Shaumyana Street, ☎ +998 65 conditioned. The price does not include breakfast. 2246256, e-mail: [email protected]. Air Owners and staff can be extremely rude and impo- conditioning and satellite TV, single US $35, dou- lite depending on their mood. Wifi available but they ble US $65 with breakfast. would even unplug the cable in front of you if you are not their favorite customer. Does not provide a • Hotel New Moon, Eshoni pir str., 8, ☎ +998 stamp on the registration paper, NOT to be trusted 652244442, fax: +998 652242034, e-mail: and definitely not recommended [Aug 2012] {GPS [email protected]. Located in centre of N 39.46.17.7 , E 064.25.14.0} from $20 without town. US $20-30 with breakfast. breakfast.

• • Madina & Ilyos B&B, Mehtar Anbar St. 18, ☎ Rustam-Zuxro B&B, 116 B. Nakshband (on the +998 65-224-6162. Located in centre of town. US main street, around 100 m. from Lyabi-Hauz), ☎ from $10 with breakfast. +998 65 224 30 80. Centrally located with very polite and friendly staﬀ, the woman in charge will • Hotel Amulet, 74 Nakshbandi St, ☎ +998 65 make sure you have everything you need. Most 2245342, +998 65 724028, fax: +998 65 2241728, rooms are air conditioned. Big breakfast included, e-mail: [email protected]. Located in the old city free WiFi, spacious courtyard where you can secure of Bukhara, just next to the ancient Lyabi Khauz en- your bicycle or motorcycle. There are also family semble (16-17th century). It was built in the early rooms with big bath tabs. Registration provided. 19th century by a famous merchant, Said Kamol, as dorms for $15, rooms from $45. a madrasah where students lived and studied everything from philosophy to religion. Today it remains a national monument that has been reconstructed to 18.11 Connect allow others the chance to experience the traditional life of years ago. Room facilities: bath room with • the shower; air conditioning; heating; satellite TV; Railways Station, Kagan, Shevchenko Str 2 (8 km hair-drier. $40-$60. south of city center), ☎ +998 65 5273426. • Komil Bukhara Boutique Hotel, 40 Barakyon • Airport, Naqshbandi Str, ☎ +998 65 2256121. Street. located in the old city of Bukhara, about 5 minutes walking distance from Lyabi Khauz, 8 • OVIR (Oﬃce for Visas and Registration), Mur- richly decorated double rooms with private bath, air taevza 10/3, ☎ +998 65 2238868. 56 CHAPTER 18. BUKHARA

18.12 Go next

Most travellers head from Bukhara to the other two silk road cities of Samarkand (3h by train) or Khiva (5h by shared taxi). Chapter 19

Southern Uzbekistan

Southern Uzbekistan is the southern, Tajik-dominated, 19.3 Other destinations mountainous portion of Uzbekistan to the south of Samarkand. Parts of it are in the region historically • Airtam — ruins of an important caravan resting known as Bactria. place on the Great Silk Road.

• Dalverzin Tepe — ruins of an ancient city of the 19.1 Regions Kushan Empire developed around an earlier Hel- lenistic fortress.

• Kashkadarya — The northern region on the west- • Gora Karakamar — cave complex carved into the ern slopes of the Pamir-Alay mountains. Sherabad ridge on the border with Turkmenistan.

• Surkhandarya — The southern region. It em- • Iron Gates (Timur Darvaza) — in ancient times braces the valleys of the Sherabad and Surkhan this narrow valley across the Hissar Mountain Range rivers which ﬂow into the Amu-darya from the north was used as a strategic passage between Bactria and Sogdia and was of great importance to any power in the region. The Hissar (Gissar) Mountain Range marks an ancient frontier between the two regions: Kashkadarya was part • Kampyrtepa — ruins of an ancient city on the of Sogdiana while Surkhandarya was part of Bactria. steep bank of the Amu Darya.

• Kurganzol Fortress — ruins of a round fortress 19.2 Cities dated to the time of Alexander the Great.

• Boysun — In 2001 the city of Boysun was pro- 19.4 Understand claimed as an intangible cultural heritage by UN- ESCO along with its surrounding countryside. Winters are the mildest in southern Uzbekistan, spring • Denov — rural town with a circular fortress and a and autumn are bearable and summer are unbearable. In Kushan archaeological site dated to the mid-1st cen- May-Augustus temperatures can reach an extreme 50° tury BC. (122°F)

• Derbent — Archaeological excavations in the area have revealed the existence of defensive system con- 19.5 Talk sisted of fortresses and massive walls. • Qarshi — meaning “Palace” in Uzbek, the city is 19.6 Get in famous for its production of woven carpets.

• Sairob — picturesque village in a narrow valley The Termez International Airport (IATA: TMJ), ICAO: UTST), is linked with Moscow-Domodedovo, St • Shakhrizabz —Timur birthplace and a UNESCO Petersburg and Tashkent by direct ﬂights of Uzbekistan World Heritage site Airways and VIM Airlines.

• Termez — The southernmost city of Uzbek- Buses from Mazar-e Sharif, Dushanbe, Kerki are infre- istan and an important border crossing between quent and rarely carry foreigners Uzbekistan and Afghanistan Termez is linked to Dushanbe and Mary by rail lines.

57 58 CHAPTER 19. SOUTHERN UZBEKISTAN

19.7 Get around

19.8 See

19.8.1 Itineraries

19.9 Do

19.10 Eat

19.11 Drink

19.12 Stay safe

19.13 Go next Chapter 20

Qarshi

View of Qarshi Kok-Gumbaz mosque in Qarshi

Qarshi is a city in southern Uzbekistan.

20.1 Understand

The city now known as Qarshi, was called Nakhshab by the Persians and Nasab by the Arabs. After the time of Mongol invasion, Kapak Khan built himself a couple of palaces (Karshi in mongol) and the name was subsequently given to the new settlement.

20.2 Get in WWII Memorial • Karshi Airport (IATA: KSQ) - ﬂights from Moscow-Domodedovo, Navoi, Saint Petersburg, • Khoja Adbul Aziz Madrassah, Nasaf St. largest Tashkent by Uzbekistan Airways. in town, now housing the Regional Museum with few exhibits about the history of Buchara emirate • Railway Station and lots of old photographs (updated Feb 2016)

• Odin Madrasah (Rabiya Madrassah), Bazaar 20.3 Get around Square. a late 19th-century female madrassah (updated Feb 2016) 20.4 See • Kurgancha Mosque. (updated Feb 2016) • World War II Memorial. dedicated to the Soviet • Kok Gumbaz mosque, Nasaf St. The biggest and casualties of WWII. The centerpiece is a bronze ﬁg- most beautiful mosque of the city. (updated Feb ure which stands closely behind the 'Eternal Flame 2016) of Remembrance'. (updated Feb 2016)

59 60 CHAPTER 20. QARSHI

• Kashkadarya Bridge. 16th century bridge (updated Feb 2016)

20.4.1 Further aﬁeld

• Khasim Ata Ensemble (Pudina village, halfway between Karshi and Kasan). A complex built around the tomb of the 11th century Islamic teacher (updated Feb 2016) • Er-kurgan Fortress. (updated Feb 2016)

• Sultan Mir Haidor complex (About 30 km southeast of Qarshi). (updated Feb 2016)

20.5 Do

20.6 Buy

20.7 Eat

• Restaurant Haﬁzaxon, Uzbekistan St corner Yas- saviy St. (updated Feb 2016) • Cafe Gulinur, Uzbekistan St (Near National Bank or Milliy Bank). (updated Feb 2016)

20.8 Drink

20.9 Sleep

• Afshona Hotel, 5, B. Sherqulov Ko'ch, ☎ 375 771 0091. Newly built two star hotel. 40 A/C rooms equipped with shower, telephone, cable TV. Con- tinental breakfast is complimentary. Double : 50$ par night (2014 year). (updated Feb 2016) • Nasaf Travel (Ex Hotel Tong), 245 Uzbekistan St & Bogzar Str., ☎ 375 225 0665. A two star hotel. 20 rooms equipped with A/C, hot shower and satellite TV. The restaurant serves Uzbek and Eu- ropean food. Standard Room Dbl. 65$ par night (2014 year). (updated Feb 2016)

• Nasaf Hotel, Navoi St (Opposite Children Hospital). A 3 star hotel. 9 guest rooms: (updated Feb 2016)

20.10 Connect

20.11 Go next Chapter 21

Shakhrizabz

Shakhrizabz is a city in Qashkadarya, Uzbekistan. emir. He made Samarkand his capital and Shakhrizabz his second capital.

21.2 Get in

Shakhrisabz is about 60 km from Samarkand over the 1,780 m high Takhzakaracha Pass. From January to March the pass may be closed, which makes a detour of about 3 hours necessary. Shared taxis leave Samarkand from Suzangaran, about 100 m south of the Registan marshrutka stop. The cost of a seat in a shared taxi is about 2500 UZS and the travel time is about 90 minutes. Taxis might go to Kitab only, so that you have to take an- Ak Sarai palace other taxi for the last 10 km. Shakhrisabz is about 280 km from Bukhara via Qarshi (Karhsi). At Bukhara shared taxis leave from across the Sharq Bus Station east of the city center. The trip takes 21.1 Understand about 4 hours and costs about 12000 UZS (2007). Some- times you will have to change taxis at Qarshi (Karhsi), Shakhrisabz is the hometown of Temur and everything in 120 km from Shakhrizabz. Shakhrisabz is connected with his name. Temur was born in 1336 at the village of Hoja Ilghar, about 13 km south of Shakhrisabz. Temur’s father Amir Taragai, his spiritual 21.3 Get around adviser Shamsedin Kulyol, and his eldest sons Jahangir and Omar Sheikh were buried here. The name Shakhris- • abz is Tajik and means “green city”. The Historic Centre Jadgar Valomi Medressah, Mosque and Ark at Eski of Shahrisabz was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Jakkabog site in 2000. • Temur’s Cave and Dinosaur Tracks in the Hisor Mountain Range on the border to Tajikistan 21.1.1 History

Archaeological excavations have found traces of occupa- 21.4 See tion by farming communities in the 1st millennium BC. In the Middle Ages the town was called Kesh. It became • Ak Saray Palace (White Palace). 9am t 6pm. Ak important in the 14th cent. Temur (Tamerlane) was born Saray means “white palace”. The term “ak” has also in a village nearby and the tribe to which he belonged con- the meaning “generous”, “aristocratic” or “majes- trolled the city. Temur was already governor of Kesh at tic”. Temur'S chronicler Sherif Eddin Ali Yezdi re- the age of 25. He defeated the Turkish sultan Bayezid and ported that the world has not seen a similar building the Golden Horde and led triumphant campaigns in Iran, before the point of which extends from earth to the the Caucasus, India and Asia Minor. At the height of his height of heaven. The palace was founded in the power his kingdom stretched from Egypt to Kashgar and hours predicted by astrology. Its construction was Kiev and Moscow were its protectorates. Timur created begun in 1380 after Temur’s conquest of Konye Ur- the vast state of Movarounnahr and became its absolute gench in Khorezm. Artisans from Khorezm were

61 62 CHAPTER 21. SHAKHRIZABZ

brought here to work on the palace and create its rich tomb, ziaratkhona (common hall for morning cere- decoration. In 1396 the construction works were monies), mosque, room for clergy, Quran readers almost completed. The Spanish ambassador Clav- and pilgrims. The main facade of the building had igo reports that the decoration works still contin- a powerful portal and its dome was only a little bit ued in 1404. The dimensions of the building can smaller than Ak-Saray. The building of Ak-Saray be perceived when looking at the gate towers: the was intended to turn Shahrizabs into the second cap- two towers were 50 m high and had an arch with a ital of the empire. The creation of the Dorus Sao- span of 22 m. The buildings were destroyed in the dat expressed Temur’s wish to turn Shahrizabs into 16th cent. by order of the ruler of Bukhara, Ab- the spiritual center of Movarounahr. Each pile con- dullah Khan. The legend tells that Abdullah Khan tained a mausoleum. Today only the left part of the was riding to Shahrizabs and saw the palace at a dis- portal is preserved, containing the tomb of Jahangir. tance. He sent a messenger to the city as he thought The buildings of the Dorus Saodat Complex were that he was already near of it. The messengers destroyed by the forces of the Sheybanid ruler Ab- nearly died of exhaustion, but the palace was still far dullah Khan in the second half of the 16th cent., but away. The khan got angry and ordered the palace the mausoleum of Jahangir survived. to be destroyed. The architecture of the palace is similar to Khoja Ahmed Yasavi Mausoleum in • Tomb of Jehangir. Jehangir was Timur’s eldest son Turkestan/Kazakhstan which was built on the orders who died at the age of 22. The mausoleum consists of Temur. Archaeological excavations south of Ak of a high square room with the arch on the axis. The Saray have revealed the rich decorated cover of the prototype of this construction was the Mausoleum of floor and rich architectural decoration consisting of Turabekh Khanum in Konye Urgench, dating from majolica, marble and combination of terracotta and the 1360s. The mausoleum is also the resting place ornamental mosaic. Only the piles of the portals are of Timur’s second son Umar Sheikh who was killed left from Ak-Saray. The piles originally were round at the age of 29 during the siege of Kurd in Iran. towers with spiral stairs inside. Today, the towers are 38 m high. Originally, they reached a height of • Crypt of Temur (behind Jahangir’s mauseolum). 50 m. The size of the palace is impressive: the main Temur’s crypt was discovered in 1963 in an under- courtyard was about 120 m wide and 240 m long. ground room. The room is plain except of inscrip- Calculations from the proportions of the surviving tions from the Quran on the arches. In the middle elements let us assume that the length of the main of the room is a large stone casket with inscriptions portal was 70 m and that the towers at the corners about Temur. It is therefore supposed that the crypt were more than 80 m high. The 22 m wide span was intended for him. Temur, however, is buried in of the arch of the main entrance was the largest in the Gur Emir Mausoleum in Samarkand. The mar- Central Asia. The mosaic and majolica work in the ble sarcophagus has a large space on the top which niche of the portal is particularly refined. The deli- was left for the future epitaph of Temur. cate foliage ornamentation also contains calligraphic inscriptions of verses from the Quran as well as a • Dorut Tilavat (west of Dorus Saodat complex). The few secular inscriptions. In the middle of the dec- Dorut Tilavat ensemble is part of the remains of oration an inscription gives the date of the comple- Temur’s memorial ensemble of burials and religious tion 798 (1395/1396) and the name of the craftsman buildings. The buildings were erected mainly dur- Muhammad Yusuf Tebrizi from Tabriz/Persia. The ing the reign of Ulugbek. This complex contains the legend tells that the architect after Temur had ex- graves of Temur’s father Taragay and his spiritual plained his plans started to make foundations blocks tutor Sheikh Shamsaddin Kulyal. from clay mixed with gold. When Temur asked why he did that, the architect answered that he wanted • Mausoleum of Sheikh Shamseddin Kulyal (be- to be sure that Temur was determined to construct a hind Kok Gumbaz). Timur’s father Taragay died in building that required vast expenditures. UZS 1000. 1360. When Temur came to power 10 years later he ordered the body of his father to be moved near • Dorus Saodat Complex. Dorus Saodat means the grave of the much respected Sheikh Shamsaddin “repository of power”. This vast complex was the Kulyal. It is said that Temur explained his military burial place of the ruling family and contained a success by Sheikh Shamsaddin Kulyal’s prayers, Za- prayer hall, a mosque and accommodation for the ynuddin Havasi’s care and Sayid Bereke’s blessing. religious community and pilgrims. The main facade Sheikh Shamsaddin Kulyal died in 1371 and Tara- was decorated with white marble and the tomb of gay was placed near his grave two years later. Sheikh Temur is a masterpiece of art of this period. Dorus Shamsaddin Kulyal was a famous Sufi teacher. He Saodat Complex dates from the same time as Ak- was also called “Amiri Kalyaon (Great Emir)" and Saray. Construction works began in 1379. The was the teacher of the famous Sheikh Bahauddin idea was to create a monumental building combining from Bukhara and of Temur’s father Taragay. 21.8. DRINK 63

• Kok Gumbaz Mosque (Friday Mosque), Ipak 21.8 Drink Yoli. 9am to 6pm. The mosque was built in 1435 under the reign of Ulugbek opposite the mausoleum of Kulyal on the same axe. It is a large Friday 21.9 Sleep mosque used for public prayers at Fridays. The name Kok Gumbaz means “blue dome”. It was built • Schachrisabz Orient Star Hotel, 26, Ipak Juli Str, by Temur’s grandson Ulug Bek in honour of his fa- ☎ 5220638. re-opened 2002, in the center of the ther Shah Rukh. Inscriptions from the Quarn cover old town, 30 rooms. The hotel is frequented by tour great parts of the dome. UZS 2500. groups, advance reservation is advisable.

• Gumbazi Seydon Mausoleum (south of Kulyal Mausoleum). This mausoleum was built by order of 21.10 Connect Ulegbek in 1437/38 - according to the inscriptions on the walls for his own descendants. It is not clear whether any of his relatives are buried in it. The 21.11 Go next mausoleum contains several marble gravestones of the 15th to 17th cent. They mention names of seyids Buses and shared taxis leave from the long distance bus from Termiz and the monument was called Gum- station south of the town. There are about 6 busses to bazi Seydon (“Seyids’ Cupola”). The design of the Tashkent per day, travel time 8 hours, costs UZS 4000 interior is typical for the time of Ulugbek with dec- (2007). Shared taxis need about 5 hours and a seat costs orations of blue colours on a white background. about UZS 12000 (2007). Shakhrisabz is about 60 km from Samarkand over the • Chorsu Bazaar and Baths. The covered bazaar 1.780 m high Takhzakaracha Pass. From Jan to Mar was built in the town center at the crossroads of two the pass may be closed, which makes a detour of about main streets in the form of a octagon with a cen- 3 hours necessary. The cost of a seat in a shared taxi tral cupola. The octagon has entrances into corner is about 2500 UZS and the travel time is about 90 min. rooms. Along the perimeter of the octagon were You might have to take a taxi to Kitab, about 1o km from shops. The building is dominated by the high cen- Shakhrisabz and change taxis there. Shared taxis arrive tral dome. As the other markets in the Middle East at Samarkand at Suzangaran, about 100 m south of the Chorsu has no decorations. Its eﬀect is deﬁned by Registan marshrutka stop. its architectural forms. The building dates from the Shakhrisabz is about 280 km from Bukhara via Qarshi 18th cent. The baths were rebuilt in the 18th cent on (Karhsi). The trip takes about 4 hours and costs about the site of the 15th cent. baths. They are heated by 12000 UZS (2007). Sometimes you will have to change an elaborate network of underground conduits and taxis at Qarshi (Karhsi), 120 km from Shakhrisabz. At are still in use today. Bukhara shared taxis arrive across the Sharq Bus Station east of the city center. • Amir Temur Museum, Ipak Yoli. 9am - 5pm. The museum has a model of Temur’s empire from Egypt to Kashgar and some artefacts from Buddhist and Zoroastrian times. UZS 2000.

21.5 Do

21.6 Buy

Shahrizabs is renowned for a distinctive type of embroidery, a very ﬂat stitch that covers the base fabric en- tirely. Purses and pillows with embroideries are famous throughout Uzbekistan.

21.7 Eat

• Kulolik Chaikhana, Ipak Yoli. Chapter 22

Termez

lim invaders, replaced by the 11th century and onwards by Turkic tribes. Karakhanids erected the domed mausoleum over the grave of 9th century mystic Al Hakim At-Termizi. In 1218 shah Muhammad II of Khwarezm ordered the execution of Mongol envoys seeking to estab- lish trade relations. As a result Mongol armies crossed the Amur Darya and after a two-day siege razed to the ground Old Termez in their way to Urgench. The city was rebuilt in a new relocation few miles eastwards. In the second half of the 19th century the village of Patta Hissar acquired importance when it was made a dock for the Russian steamships on the Amu-Darya. In 1898 Ter- mez was annexed by the Russian crown.

The Friendship Bridge in Termez connecting Uzbekistan with Afghanistan. 22.2 Get in Termez or Termiz is a city in Surkhandarya, Uzbekistan. 22.2.1 By plane

22.1 Understand The Termez International Airport (IATA: TMJ), ICAO: UTST), is linked with Moscow-Domodedovo, St Termiz is right along the border with Afghanistan (the Petersburg and Tashkent by direct flights of Uzbekistan Amu Darya or Oxus river) and is currently a major supply Airways and VIM Airlines. Minibuses 11 from the air- hub for the NATO war operations there. It is also a busy port stop at Yubileyny Bazaar. transport hub for goods entering and leaving Afghanistan due to the Friendship Bridge, built by the Soviet Union. Old Termez lie 12 km west of the modern center. Alexan- der the Great is credited as the founder of the city, though 22.2.2 By train there is little evidence of his passage. The stuff of the Hel- lenistic period may still be buried under the layers of the Termez’s main train station lies north of the city center. Kushan period, when the settlement grew in importance. There is a night train from Tashkent every second day, Two sites in the vicinity, Shor tepe and Kampyr tepe, leaving Tashkent Pass Csentr. at 9 PM and arriving next seem to have got more importance under Achaemenid day at 11:40 AM. and Hellenistic rule. The latter was a fortified city at Alexander’s time. Since from the early days of the unified empire of Kan- ishka I (127–163), Old Termez, controlling a strategic 22.2.3 By bus position on the north bank of the Oxus at its junction with the Surkhan Darya, became an important center on Coming from Afghanistan, it is possible to take a shared the Silk Road and the caravan trade brought Buddhism' taxi or drive to Hairatan on the other side of the river and religious precepts along with the distinctive art forms of then walk across the border. The main bus station is in Gandhara style. In 689 AD the city fell to Arab Mus- the city centre at the western end of Navoi street.

64 22.4. SEE 65

22.3 Get around • Termez Archaeological Museum, At-Termezi str. 29a, ☎ + (99876) 2427585. from 9.00 am to 6 pm. Isuzu 7-seater Marshrutkas. — Exhibits from excavations in 20 archaeological sites in Surkhandarya region. — In 2014 foreigners were charged 40 times the entrance fee for locals.. 22.4 See (updated Feb 2016) • Palace of Termez rulers (Old Termez). —

• Zurmala Tower (Old Termez). — The domed, cylindric tower is the remnant of a Buddhist stupa, built in the third century AD and originally faced with tiles.

• Fayaz-Tepe (Old Termez). — a 3rd-century AD Buddhist monastery partially rebuilt and now open for tourist visits. (updated Feb 2016)

• Kara Tepe monastery (Old Termez). The access to Kara Tepe is restricted. — The remains of a Bud- dhist cave monastery built on top of three hills in the late 1st century AD. The complex ﬂourished in the next centuries but was deserted when the Arabs cap- Archaeological Museum, Termiz. tured the city in 705 AD and ﬁnally destroyed by the troops of Genghis Khan along with the rest of the Old Termez in 1220. In recent years the caves were partly rebuilt with support from Unesco. Archaeo- logical excavations revealed wall paintings with one of the world’s oldest images of Buddha surrounded by monks.

• Architectural Complex of Al Hakim At-Termizi (Old Termez). — Set on a hill overlooking the Amu Darya River with superb views to the shores of Afghanistan, the complex hosts the mausoleum of a Suﬁ saint who lived in Termez until his death in 869 AD.

Fayoz-Tepe, Buddhist monastery • Architectural Ensemble Sultan Saodat. — The burying place of the sheikh’s clan from Termez regarded as descendants of Prophet Muhammad and therefore deeply revered by Muslims . The domed tomb of Khasan al Emir, the founder of Seyid"s clan, was built in the 12th century.

22.4.1 Further aﬁeld

• Airtam (18 km east from the City center, on the banks of the Amu Darya river). — ruins of an important caravan resting place on the Great Silk Road. Russian excavations have revealed two Bud- dhist complexes constructed above an earlier Hel- lenistic fort and Kushan coins. (updated Feb 2016)

Mausoleum of Al Hakim At-Termizi • Zul Kiﬂ Mausoleum (Dhul-'i-Kiﬂ)(Aral- Paygambar Island in the Amu-Darya). — Built Termez is the southernmost city in Uzbekistan which has in the late 11th century, the mausoleum has a tall a lot of historical sights. portal and a dome chamber on simple squinches 66 CHAPTER 22. TERMEZ

• Isa at-Tirmidhi Mausoleum (In Sherobod, 60 km north of Termez along M39 road.). —

• Kampyr Tepe. — The results of the excavations certify to the authenticity of the monument and allows identifying it with the ancient city of Alexan- dria Oxiana. (updated Feb 2016)

• Kyrk-Kyz Fortress (Kirk Kiz Khanaka). — Kirk Kiz Khanaka is thought to be the ruins of a castle or a summer retreat for the dynasty of Samanids. The name Kirk-Kiz means “Fourty Girls” and according to local legends the Amazons were living here.

22.5 Do

22.6 Buy

Central bazar near clock tower (centre of modern town). Black market money changers opposite on the same street.

22.7 Eat

22.8 Drink

Last chance for alcoholic beverages before crossing to Afganistan (Uzbek customs ban export of alcohol.)

22.9 Sleep

• Meridian Termez Hotel, 23, Alpomish Str, ☎ +998 91 577 90 65. four star hotel in the city center with restaurant, bar, swimming pool and sauna from US$ 100 (2014).

• Surxon, near central clock tower. Check-out: 24 h. Buﬀet, hairdresser on ground ﬂoor. 35000 S. (2014).

22.10 Connect

Post oﬃce by the central clock tower. Small internet kiosk accross the street (near taxi rank).

22.11 Go next

Haimartan, thence Mazar-i-Sharif in Afghanistan. Chapter 23

Tashkent Region

The Tashkent Region is the central portion of 23.11 Drink Uzbekistan, centered on the capital, Tashkent. 23.12 Stay safe 23.1 Regions 23.13 Go next 23.2 Cities

• Angren

• Chirchik

• Gulistan

• Jizzah

• Olmaliq

• Tashkent

23.3 Other destinations

23.4 Understand

23.5 Talk

23.6 Get in

23.7 Get around

23.8 See

23.8.1 Itineraries

23.9 Do

23.10 Eat

67 Chapter 24

Tashkent

Tashkent (Uzbek: Toshkent, Тошкент; Russian: Shortly after the fall of the Soviet Union and Uzbekistan Ташкент) is the capital city of Uzbekistan. declared independence in 1991, the written Uzbek language was converted back into Latin characters. Many older Uzbeks have difficulty reading the Latin characters. 24.1 Understand Uzbek is a Turkic-based language, and while Uzbeks and Turks cannot completely communicate directly, the better educated on both sides can usually find some common It is an ancient city on the Great Silk Road from China understanding. to Europe. Little remains of the ancient city after the 1966 earthquake and earlier modernisation work follow- Many of the signs in Tashkent are in Cyrillic. A signifi- ing the 1917 revolution. Tashkent remains a Soviet-era cant number of Russian words are similar to their English city that has little remaining from its ancient Central counterparts. Learning the Cyrillic alphabet, not as diffi- Asian past. The city has a mixture of modern new office cult as one might think, will help a traveller to read signs buildings, hotels, parks, and crumbling Soviet-style apart- and in restaurants. It is very useful for the casual visitor ment blocks. The streets are generally clean and there are to Tashkent to learn a few basic Russian or Uzbek words not too many potholes in the city centre. Further out, the and phrases. If you need to speak English, young people infrastructure is not so good. are your best bet, and even then there is no guarantee that they will speak more than basic English. Over the last few years the Uzbek government has em- barked on a major reconstruction program in the centre The name Tashkent is usually attributed to the Turk- of the city. Roads, government buildings and parks are all ish words “tash” (“stone”) and the Persian word “kent” being reconstructed (many historical buildings and sites (“city”), meaning “city of stones”. Another opinion refers are bulldozed in process). To the visitor, the new city to the Sogdian word “tschatsch”, meaning “place on a looks very impressive, although many of the local resi- hill”. dents have yet to see any improvement in their residential areas. Tashkent is waiting for a boom. The infrastructure, hotels, and shops are there but the influx of people and business has failed to materialise. This is caused in part by a 24.3 Get in combination of government policy and bad publicity. Tashkent has a population of 2.3 million people (2012). 24.3.1 By plane

The Tashkent International Airport (Yuzhniy (IATA: 24.2 Talk TAS), Uzbek: Toshkent Xalqaro Aeroporti), Sergeli District (Located: just a few kilometres south from Although Uzbek is now the official language, Russian is the city centre.), ☎ +998 71 1402801, +998 71 the native language for most Tashkent dwellers, although 1402802, +998 71 1402803, +998 71 1402804, e-mail: most also speak Uzbek. Most businesses use Russian in [email protected]. - The airport has two terminals, their signs, menus, and other printed material. Only gov- domestic (Terminal 3) and international (Terminal 2) ernment institutions use Uzbek as the first language, and on opposite sides of the airfield. The only way to get even then, many government forms and reports are in from one to the other is by road, a 10-minute taxi ride. Russian, rather than Uzbek. Currently, Uzbek uses the Flights: Aeroflot Moscow, Rostov-on-Don, Saint Peters- Latin alphabet rather than the Cyrillic that was used dur- burg, Turkish Airlines Daily flights to Istanbul, Air Baltic, ing the Soviet Union. This is a source of some confusion Czech Airlines, Iran Air, Korean Air Seoul, Uzbekistan for many Uzbeks, especially those of the older generation. Airways

68 24.3. GET IN 69

Airport formalities the Sharq which continues to Bukhara. For Khiva and Termez there are night trains with comfortable sleeping You pass though passport control and pick up your lug- berths. Make sure that you buy ticket a few days in ad- gage before going through Customs. The queues for Cus- vance or arrive at least 1 hour before train departure, as toms are extremely long and people frequently try to push the queue for ticket office is often long and chaotic with in. Before passing through customs, you will need to fill people jumping the queue. For domestic departure times out 2 copies of the customs declaration. These forms are see the Uzbekistan#Get around section. often handed out on the flight or can be found on the Tashkent is a key stopping point for rail services from stands in the baggage claim area. The customs officers Central Asia. It is possible to travel from or to will keep one copy and stamp the other. You will need Dushanbe in Tajikistan, Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan, Almaty this form when you leave the country and may have prob- in Kazakhstan, and Moscow. It is possible to travel to lem in taking out money without it. Make sure to declare China through Almaty and to Iran. Ticket prices are all money and valuables (cameras, PCs etc.). You may cheap by Western standards, but will need to be paid for in not be able to leave with more money or valuable items cash, preferably in USD. There are many warnings about than you arrive with. The Uzbek government have strict thefts of personal belongings on the trains. rules on entering or leaving with money. Don't be intimi- dated when you see a crowd running to a passport control • Train 6 leaves Moscow on W, F, and M at 23:16, officer. They are just trying to get a better spot in a huge arriving at Tashkent on Sa, Tu, and Th at 21:00 waiting line. • Train 296 leaves Kharkov on Su at 11:52, arriving The departure area is on the upper floor. The access road at Tashkent on W at 21:20 has been closed, so you have to walk around the left side of the arrivals level and up some stairs or up the road. Al- • Train 486 leaves Chelyabinsk on Su at 23:50, arriv- low plenty of time when leaving the country via Tashkent ing at Tashkent on W at 00:45. airport. Check-in, customs, and passport control can be very time consuming, especially if there are large numbers of passengers. Make sure and have the customs form 24.3.3 By bus you were given when you entered the country. To travel by bus to Uzbekistan a traveller has to take a bus to the border post, then cross the border on foot, and then To/from Airport take another bus to the final destination. Buses do not reg- ularly operate internationally. But some private operators A short and inexpensive (USD2–3) taxi journey is the run bus services to many CIS cities on announced dates. easiest way to get to the centre. One should bear in mind, It is difficult to get information and sometimes dates can however, that upon exiting the international terminal, a change without warning. large number of men will be crowded at the (sole) exit • door offering “taxi” services. For the most part, these Tashkent Bus Station (Avtovokzal), Bunyodkor are not “official” taxis. “Taxi” drivers will attempt to shoh kochasi and Gavhar kochasi corner (Metro sta- charge whatever they believe the market will bear. For tion “Sobir Raximov”). Buses usually are very full those without Russian or Uzbek language skills it is best and advance purchase of tickets is recommended. to arrange to have someone meet you at the airport. Fair Tickets are sold to foreigners at Movarunahr fares are usually only obtainable by those who understand Kochasi 51, daily from 08:00-17:00. Buses leave the system and speak at least some Russian or Uzbek. from here to Bokhara (11 hr, USD8), Samarkand It is better to walk 50m from the exit towards the taxi (6 hr, USD5), and Urgench/Khiva (20 hr, USD12) stand where many taxis are waiting on the road and nego- (2009). tiate. Generally prevailing fare is minimum USD2-3 for A marshrutka is a small bus or van which follows a 5km (20 cents per each additional km). Always nego- fixed route and stops on demand to take on or drop off tiate. Taxi drivers will rarely accept small bills (dollars, passengers. As of 2009, marshrutkas to: Andijan (6 euros, or pounds), and cannot be counted upon to give hr, USD5), Bokhara (8 hr, USD6), to Ferghana (6 hr change (in any currency). USD4), to Kokand (3 hr, USD3), Samarkand (4 hr, USD4), and Termez (10 hr USD8). Timetable 24.3.2 By train 24.3.4 By taxi The Tashkent Railway Station (Severny Vokzal), Kichik Xalqa Yo'li (Metro station “Toshkent”). is the cen- • Stand for Shared taxis to Samarkand and south tral hub for trains in Uzbekistan with most domestic trains (Big highway junction close to Metro station Ol- ending or starting here. The most attractive connections mazar (Алмазар), right next to Tashkent Bus Sta- are to Samarkand with the super fast Afrosiob train and tion). Lines to: Samarkand (3h, USD8), Bokhara 70 CHAPTER 24. TASHKENT

(7h, USD13), Termez (10h, USD15), Urgench or Khiva (14h, USD25).

• Stand for Taxis to Fergana Valley (Kuyluk Bazar). Taxis to Fergana Valley leave from here and from the Northern Station. To Andijan (5h, 8USD) also for Osh, Ferghana (4h, USD8), Kokand (3h, USD6).

24.3.5 By car

There are road routes from surrounding countries but the borders may not be open and there have been security problems. The border from Afghanistan is sometimes closed or not open to Uzbek nationals. You have to walk at least 4km to cross the border on foot from the Uzbek Tashkent metro 2014 checkpoint to the Afghan checkpoint. The Cherniaevka crossing from Kazakhstan near Sarya- gash. Allow 1-2 hours to get through, especially from the is not watching because they have security cameras ev- Uzbek side. OK, but long, long lines. Take the left line at erywhere and policeman will approach you instantly and Uzbek customs. They want you to declare any cellphones check your documents. In all cases do have documents as communications devices. while you are taking the metro (or anywhere in the city), for you can be checked any time. From Kyrgyzstan, the Dostlik post 30km from Andijan is open from 09:00-18:00. From Tajikistan Oiybek Post, Tashkent Metro has three lines: 80km from Tashkent, is open for foreigners from 09:00- 18:00. Tursanzade Post, 60km from Dushanbe Tajik- • Chilonzor (Red line) from Janubiy to Turkistan. istan, is open for foreigners and locals 180km from Metro station Buyuk Ipak Yoli (Буюк Ипак Termez. Chorzhu Post on the border of Turkmenistan, йули). , Metro station Pushkin (Пушкин). 30km from Bukhara, is also open to foreigners and lo- , Metro station Hamid Olimjon (Хамид cals. Алимджан). , Metro station Amir Temur Xiy- Distances from Tashkent by road: Almaty in Kazakhstan oboni (Амир Темур хиёбони). , Metro station 810km, Ashgabat in Turkmenistan 1,290km, Bishkek Mustaqilliq Maidoni (Мустакиллик майдони). , in Kyrgyzstan 570km, Kashgar in China 880km, Metro station Paxtakor (Пахтакор). . Metro Andijan 392km, Bokhara 600km, Ferghana 325km, station Bunyodkor (Бунёдкор). , Metro sta- Karshi 430km, Khiva 1,045km, Kokand 236km, Nukus tion Milliy Bog (Миллий бог). , Metro station 1,115km, Samarkand 295km, Termez 705km, Urgench Hamza (Хамза). , Metro station Mirzo Ulug- 1,020km bek (Мирзо Улугбек). , Metro station Chilonzor (Чиланзар). , Metro station Olmazar (Алмазар).

• Uzbekistan (Blue line) from Beruniy to Chkalov. 24.4 Get around Metro station Beruniy (Беруни). 1 , Metro station Tinchlik (Тинчлик). , Metro station 24.4.1 By metro Chorsu (Чорсу). , Metro station Gafur Gu- lom (Гофур Гулом). , Metro station Alisher Navoiy (Алишер Навои). , Metro station Ozbek- The city has a good public transport system which is iston (Узбекистон). , Metro station Kosmon- cheap. The metro/underground system is typical of the avtlar (Космонавтлар). , Metro station Oybek old Soviet-style with large and impressive stations and is (Айбек). , Metro station Toshkent (Ташкент). , quite modern. Stations are richly themed. For example, Metro station Mashinasozlar (Машинасозлар). Kosmonavtlar is a lavish monument to Uzbekistan’s con- , Metro station Chkalov (Дустлик). , tribution to the Soviet space programme. There are also modern buses and trams, many of which • Yunus-Obod (Green line) from Sabir Rakhimov were renovated in 2008. Tickets (which on the metro are to Buyuk Ipak Yuli. Metro station Habib Ab- small blue coin size tokens) cost UZS1000 for any single dullayev (Хабиб Абдуллаев). , Metro station journey. It is not permitted to take photographs in the Bodomzor (Бадамзар). , Metro station Mi- metro stations. Police will usually be present on all plat- nor (Минор). , Metro station Abdulla Qodirii forms. Do not risk taking photos while the policeman (Абдулла Кодирий). , Metro station Yunus Ra- 24.5. SEE 71

jabiy (Юнус Раджабий). , Metro station Ming narrow winding streets and many ancient mosques and Orik (Минг Урик). . Trains leave every 2 minutes. madrassas.

• Abdulkasim Madrassa (Madrasah of Abdulkasim 24.4.2 By car Sheikh, Медресе Абдулкасыма), Bunyodkor shoh ko'chasi (South part of the old city. A.Navoi National Taxis Park. - Metro station Milliy Bog few hundred meters away). This madrassa was erected in honour of the Taxis can be cheap after some negotiation; however some great thinker Abdulkhasim Khan at the beginning of of the vehicles are very old. While there are official, au- the 19th century. thorized taxis (with the appropriate sign on the roof of the car), in reality almost any driver in Tashkent can dou- • Kaldyrgach-bly Mausoleum (Мавзолей ble as a taxi driver. The local custom is to simply stand Калдыргач-Бея), Abdulla Qodiriy ko'chasi by the side of the road with your arm extended down- (Islamic University). This mausoleum is the most ward and slightly away from the body. A driver will pull ancient monument in Tashkent. The dome in the over and then you will state your destination and negoti- form of a pyramid dates from the 15th century and ate the fare in advance. At least some Russian or Uzbek is said to remind the mazars in the Kazakh steppes. language skills are needed to accomplish this without dif- The mausoleum contains the tomb of a famous ficulty. It is usually safe to use this procedure, although Kazakh political, Tole-bly, who had the nickname virtually every foreign embassy recommends against it. Kaldyrgach (“swallow”). Directions are rarely given here using an address. Most often, a landmark is used, such as “near Hotel Russia”. • Khavendi Takhur Sheikh Mausoleum Moreover, many streets and hotels have been renamed in (Мавзолей Шейха Хавенди Тахура), Abdulla the past few years and often drivers will not recognize the Qodiriy ko'chasi. The mausoleum was founded current name of the street or hotel, still knowing them by in the 14th century. The present buildings were their old names. Asking to be taken to the Grand Mir erected on the old foundations in the 18th and 19th Hotel, for instance, will often result in a blank look. Tell centuries. The mausoleum is constructed with light the driver you want to go to the Gastinitsa Rossiya (Ho- yellow bricks and has no decoration in the interior. tel Russia), however, and they will know exactly where you want to go. For those who speak neither Russian nor • Mausoleum of Zainuddin-bobo Sheikh Uzbek, it is helpful to have someone draw a rudimentary (Мавзолей Шейха Зайнутдина-Бобо), Mannon map or write out directions in Russian. Few drivers will Uyg'ur ko'chasi, Kurgancha 7th Street (Former know English. Orifon village beyond the Kukcha Gate (now within the Tashkent). - From Metro station Bunyodkor Do not expect Western-style taxi services. Taxi drivers northwest about two km). This is the mausoleum will often smoke while you are in the car and asking them of the son of the founder of a famous Sufi order. not to will most often result in nothing more than a look His father sent him to disseminate the ideas of this of disapproval. You may be paying, but you are in their order. The mausoleum is of the khanaka type. The car. There are many taxi services operating in the city hall is covered with a double dome. Nearby is a with fixed rates and a person can order the taxi from their chillyakhona (subterranean monastic cell) dating to hotel room. There are some web sites offering complete the 12th-13th centuries. lists of taxi services and taxi charges Taxis within the city can be reserved by calling Taxi Ex- • Yunus Khan Mausoleum (Мавзолей Юнус- press, Tel 1399999 or 16360272. Хана), Abdulla Qodiriy ko'chasi (Islamic Univer- sity. - From Metro station Alisher Navoiy or Metro station Paxtakor north cca one km till Ave. Abdulla Car rental Qodiriy further turn right). The mausoleum is one of the few monuments in Tashkent dating to the epoch Only one of the major international car hire companies of the Timurids. Yunus Khan (1415-1487) was a operates in Tashkent. It is Naniko (local website here). descendant of Gengiz Khan and grandfather of the Indian moghul Babur. The building was erected in the 15th century and restored several times. It has 24.5 See no decoration except 'panjara' on the main façade. • Ensemble Khazret Imam (Ансамбль Хазрат 24.5.1 Old Town Имам), Qorasaroy ko'chasi (From Metro station Ga- fur Gulom to north one and half km). Tomb of The “Old Town” has retained much of its charm. Here one of the first Imams of Tashkent. Visitors may you will find low adobe houses with shady courtyards, wish to visit the mosque in the Hast Imam area 72 CHAPTER 24. TASHKENT

of the city. The library there contains the remaining fragments of the world’s first Koran, written only 19 years after the death of Hazrat Muhammad. Parts of its: Imam Al Bukhari Islamic Institute, Barakhan Madrassa, Mosque Namazgokh (Мечеть Намазгох), Baroqhona Masjid (Hazrati Imom Ma- jmuasi), Mosque Hazrati Imom (Мечеть Хазрати Имом) • Mausoleum of Abubakr Muhammad Kaffal Shashi (Kaffol Shoshiy Mausoleum, Мавзолей Абубекра Мухаммад Каффаль Шаши) (Next to Barrak-Khan Madrassa). It is the mausoleum of one of the first Imams who died c.976. The present mausoleum is rectangular in shape and is crowned by a conical Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in wintertime dome. The frieze with inscriptions over the entrance and the panjara (wooden lattices) in the window openings are especially remarkable. кафедральный собор), Avliyuata Str (ул. Садыка • Barrak-Khan Madrassa (Baroqxun Азимова, 3-й тупик), 22, (North of Military madrasasi, Медресе Барак-хана), Qorasaroy Hospital. - From Metro station Toshkent west half ko'chasi (E of Chorsu Market, in the old city). km), ☎ +998 71 2333321, fax: +998 71 2367939, The madrassa was completed in the 2nd half e-mail: [email protected]. Tashkent of the 16th century. Barak Khan died in 1556 Russian Orthodox Сenter area and is buried in Samarkand. • Evangelical Lutheran Church (Евангелическо- • Moyie Mubarek Library Museum, Zarqay- лютеранская церковь), 37 Street Sadyk Azimov nar 114, ☎ +998 26 00302. Daily,09:00- (Right nort of the British Embassy). 16:00. Preserving the world’s oldest Quran from the 7th century. • Sacred Heart Cathedral (Собор Святейшего • Namazgokh Mosque (Мечеть Намазгох). Сердца Иисуса), Taraqqiyot ko'chasi. Roman Built in 1850’s Catholic Church • Tellya Sheikh Mosque (Telyashayakh Mosque, Мечеть Тилла-Шейха), Zarqaynar 24.5.3 Mosques Street (Зарқайнар кўчаси) (Part of). Built in 1856-57. With a beautiful Islamic library with ancient ceilings and ancient manuscripts and the Osman Koran. It is considered the oldest Koran in the world and is said to have been stained with the blood of Hazrat Osman in 655. • Kukeldash Madrassa (Медресе Кукельдаш), Nawai Prospect (On a hill overlooking Chorsu Bazaar, next to the Friday mosque. - Metro station Chorsu). This Quran school was built in the 16th century during the reign of Abdulla-Khan by the vizier, scientist and poet, Kulbobo Kukel- dash. Kukeldash means “the Khan’s foster brother'. Kukeldash Madrassa is one of the largest and best- Dzhuma ( Friday) Mosque preserved Quran schools in Central Asia. The madrassa has a traditional composition with a large inner yard with hujras (pupils’ cells) and darshakona • Bodamzar or Mirzo-Yusuf Mosque, Bo- and mosque in the corners. UZS2,000. gyshamol kuchasy (Боғишамол кўчаси) 98 (East ten mins walk from Metro station Bodomzor). 24.5.2 Churches • Dzhuma Mosque (Khoja Akhrar Mosque, Fri- day Mosque, Джума мечеть Ходжа Ахрар Вали), • Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Holy As- Samarqand Darvoza ko'chasi (Metro station Pax- sumption Cathedral Church, Свято Успенский takor). The first building of Dzhuma Mosque was 24.5. SEE 73

built in 1451 at the expense of Sheikh Uboydullo • Collection of Ancient Oriental Manuscripts Khodja Ahror (1404-1490). (Фонд древних восточных рукописей). Part of Institute of Oriental Studies named after Abu Ray- • Eshonguzar Mosque, Zarqaynar ko'chasi han Beruni. - Uzbek, Arabic, Persian, Tajik, (Зарқайнар кўчаси) (Metro station Gafur Gulom Urdu, Pashtu, Azerbaijani, Turkish, Tatar, Turk- 400 m). men, Uyghur Manuscripts listed by UNESCO as one • Minor, Kichik Xalqa Yo'li (From Metro station of the richest manuscript repositories in the world. Bodomzor one km to southwest, east bank of Bozsu • Fine Arts Museum of Usbekistan (The State Mu- creek). seum Of Arts, Davlat Sanat muzey,), Shakhrisabz • Architectural Complex Shayhantaur (Комплекс St and Amir Temur St corner (From Metro station Шайхантаур), Syr-Darya Oblast. Built in 14th cen- Ming Orik toward NE five min walk), ☎ +998 23 tury 67436. M 10:00-14:00, W-Su 10:00-17:00, closed Tu. Decent collection of Russian and European art combined with regional specialties, such as Russian 24.5.4 Museums paintings depicting Uzbek people and their lifestyle, local antiquities, and decorations salvaged from ancient temples. Some parts of this museum may require an extra ticket Behind it is a park with a Monument of Poet Zulfiya (Памятник поэтессе Зульфие). UZS10,000; locals, UZS3,000 (2012). • History Museum (State museum of history of Uzbekistan, Museum of history and archeology, Музей истории Узбекистана), Sharaf Rashidova (Шароф Рашидов кўчаси), 3 (Between Metro station Mustaqilliq Maidoni and Metro station Kosmon- avtlar), ☎ +998 371 2391779, +998 371 2391083, fax: +998 371 2394425, e-mail: [email protected] [email protected], [email protected]. Tu- Su, 10:00-17:00, closed M. Artefacts from Zoroas- trian and Buddhist times. Exhibits related to the Fine Arts Museum of Usbekistan conquest of the khanates of Central Asia by the Rus- sians, and to the first president of the independent • Amur Timur Museum (Temuriylar tarixi Uzbek Republic, Islam Karimov. UZS6,000; locals, davlat muzeyi, Национальный Музей Истории UZS1,500 (2012). Тимуридов), Amur Timur (ул. Амира Тимура) • Navoy Literary Museum (Alisher Navoiy no- 1 (Metro station Amir Temur Xiyoboni and Metro midagi Davlat Adabiyot muzeyi, Государственный station Yunus Rajabiy half km to east), ☎ +998 13 музей литературы имени Алишера Навои), 36228, +998 71 232-0212, fax: +998 71 232-0213, Navoi 69 (Metro station Alisher Navoiy and Metro e-mail: [email protected]. Tu-Su, 10:00-17:00, station Paxtakor are both very close), ☎ +998 24 closed M. Rather kitschy murals depicting Timur. 41268, fax: +998 71 242-0275, +998 71 244-0061, UZS3,000. e-mail: [email protected]. M-F, 10:00-17:00; Sa, • Museum of Applied Arts, Rakatboshi 15 (South- 10:00-13:00; closed Su. Memories of the poet west ten min walk of Metro station Kosmonavtlar), Alisher Navoi, calligraphy from Persia, miniatures ☎ +998 712 2533943, +998 712 2564042. Daily, from the 15th and 16th centuries. UZS3,000. 09:00-18:00. In a house built by a Russian diplo- • International Caravanserai of culture Ikuo mat in the 19th century. With carved and painted Hirayama (Международный Караван-Сарай plaster and carved wood, this museum gives an культуры Икуо Хираямы), Yusufa Khos overview of old architectural details from Bukhara Khodzhiba str. (Metro station Kosmonavtlar). and Samarkand, ceramics and textiles, gift shop. UZS1,200. • Museum of telecommunication of Uzbekistan, 5 Abay ko'chasi. • Art Gallery of Uzbekistan (Галерея изобразительного искусства), Buyuk Turon • Navruz Art Palace (Дворец "Навруз”), Furkata 2 (Metro station Mustaqilliq Maidoni 100 m away). str., 5 (Right north of Alisher Navoiy Park. - Ten Tu-Sa 11:00-17:00; closed Su-M. Exhibitions of mins walk from Metro station Bunyodkor or Metro contemporary Uzbek artists in a modern museum station Milliy Bog), ☎ +998 71 245-77-37, +998 71 building. UZS600 (2012). 2457748. 74 CHAPTER 24. TASHKENT

Railway Museum Prince Romanov Palace

• House of Photography (Дом фотографии), Is- There is a small museum on the foyer of Institute tikbol str. (Metro station Amir Temur Xiyoboni five of Astronomy mins walk), ☎ +998 71 233-5168, +998 71 233- • Tashkent City Hall (Tashkent City Khokymiyat), 5164. Small exhibition hall 11, Amir Temur St (Амир Темур шоҳ кўчаси). • Railway Museum, Central Cultural Palace (South of Amir Timur Monument), ☎ +998 71 233- of Railwaymen (Museum of Rail Transport, 90-69, 233-79-80, fax: +998 71 233-65-88. Temir yol texnikasy muzeyi Дворец культуры • Mustakillik Square (Mustаqillik mаydоni, железнодорожников, ДКЖ, Дом Культуры Independence Square, Площадь Независимости, Железнодорожников, Ташкентский музей Мустакиллик майдони), Mustakillik Square железнодорожной техники), 6 Turkiston ko'chasi (Metro Mustakillik maydoni). The political centre (улица Туркистон) (Metro station Toshkent), ☎ of the Republic of Uzbekistan. Governmental +998 71 299 7277, +998 71 299-7040, +998 71 buildings and the senate are here. 259-6708. Daily: 9: 00-13: 00 14: 00-18: 00, Sanitary days: Monday, Tuesday (not working • Brothers Tombs. A popular tourist attraction excursion train and car museum). and on 9 May (Victory Day) thousands of people visit the place to pay homage to the vic- • Museum of Olympic Glory, 4A Sharof Rashidov tims of WWII. Statues of war heroes are on Shoh Ko'chasi (West half km of Metro station Ab- the south wall of the monument. A statue of dulla Qodirii). A sport museum famous Uzbek General Sobir Rokhim is also • Museum of Victims of Repressions (Музей there. репресированным в Сталинские времена), • Independence Monument, Independence Yunusabad District, Amir Timur St. (площади square (Amir Timur Monument & Park five Памяти и почести, Шахидлар майдони), (Close mins by walk). Erected in 1991 as a symbol to TV tower), ☎ +998 71 244-2940, +998 71 241- of the sovereignty of the country. It shows a 8556, fax: +998 71 244-2940, +998 71 241-8556;, golden globe and the outlines of Uzbekistan. e-mail: [email protected]. Memories Here is the Amir Timur Monument & Park of the Stalin era. Located in the Memorial Complex • World War II Memorial, Sharof Rashidov Shakhidlar hotirasi. Ave, (city centre , Mustaqillik Maydoni). Eter- nal flame and park has the names of all the fallen victims of WWII. 24.5.5 Others • Monument of Courage, Sharof Rashidov St (300m • Academy of Sciences of the Republic of Uzbek- from Independence Square, near to German Em- istan (Академия наук Узбекистана), Yahyo bassy). Built to acknowledge the courage of the peo- Gulyamov ko'chasi (From Metro station Amir Temur ple at the time of the Tashkent earthquake on 26 Xiyoboni half km SW), ☎ +998 71 233 68 47. April 1966. The whole city was reduced to rubble and then modern Tashkent was built. • Ulugh Beg Astronomical Institute (Астрономический институт имени Мирзо • Tashkent TV Tower (Ташкентская телебашня), Улугбека), 33 Astronomicheskaya str. (East half Amir Temur St, (Амир Темур шоҳ кўчаси) (Be- km of Metro station Minor), ☎ +998 71 2358102, tween Metro station Habib Abdullayev and Metro sta- fax: +998 71 2344867, e-mail: [email protected]. tion Bodomzor). Viewing levels and restaurants with 24.6. DO 75

views of the city. The TV Tower, built in 1981, is the highest building in Central Asia. It is 375m high. It is the 10th highest building in the world and the 2nd highest buildings in GIS and has a revolv- ing restaurant 110m above the ground. Make sure to bring your passport. Foreigners $15.

• Receptions Hall of the Foreigh Affairs Ministry (Prince Romanov Palace)(Metro station Mustaqilliq Maidoni). Maidanak Observatory • National Assembly Building (Oliy Majlis Qonun- chilik palatasi), 1 Bunyodkor shoh ko'chasi (Next to limit). Burial place of sheikh Aj-Hodzha, nick- Abdulkasim Madrassa), ☎ +998 71 239 87 07, e- named Zengi-Ata, which means “black”, who lived mail: [email protected]. The building of the from the end of 12th to the first half of 13th century. Parliament of Uzbekistan. A meeting place for the Parts of its: Zengi-Ata Madrassa (Медресе Занги- Legislative Chamber of the Oliy Majlis of Republic Ата) and Zengi-Ata Mosque (Мечеть Занги-Ата) of Uzbekistan • • New Clock Tower (Chime), Istikbol St (Metro sta- Maidanak Observatory (Майданакская tion Amir Temur Xiyoboni five mins walk). высокогорная обсерватория) (First go to Suvlisay (cca. 500km SW) from there on four wheel cars or • Old Clock Tower (Chime), Amir Temur Ave walk cca. twenty km SW). Located on the western (South of Monument Park). top of mountain Maidanak (altitude 2650 m), located 35 km southward of the village Yakkabog, • International Forums Palace (Xalqaro anjuman- Kashkadarya province lar saroyi). • Big Solar Furnace (Большая Солнечная Печь). • Experimental nuclear reactor (Reactor Dosim- A project of the Academy of Sciences Republic of baev Abdulrahim)(Located: Institute of Nu- Uzbekistan clear Physics), ☎ +998 712893134, e-mail: [email protected]. By special permission. A • Lake Charvak (Chor bogh)(NE cca hundred km). project of the Academy of Sciences Republic of The reservoir was created by erecting Charvak Hy- Uzbekistan. dropower Station on the Chirchiq River, a short distance downstream from the confluence of Pskem • Peoples’ Friendship Palace. and Chatkal rivers in the western Tian-Shan moun- • Oqsaroy Presidental Palace, Afrosiyob ko'chasi tains. The reservoir popular resort place for locals. (Next to State Puppet Theatre). • Ugam Chatkal National Park (Chatkalskiy • Old TV Tower (Старая телевышка) (Metro station State Nature Reserve, Угам-Чаткальский Alisher Navoiy and Metro station Paxtakor are right Национальный Парк), Toshkent Province. there). Bustonlik tumani (NE about 140km take R-5 road). About 570 sq km of mountain steppes, mountain • Yunusobod Aktepa (Юнусабадский Актеп), forests, alpine meadows, river valleys and floodplain Otaboy ota Tursunov Str. (From Metro station Habib forests. Abdullayev about two and half km east). An archaeological site of 5-13th centuries. There are found some remains of an ancient settlement with the strength and extensive artisan quarters. The 24.6 Do 'Fortress’ was here more like a castle-manor. Maybe here was the summer residence of the rulers of • National library of Uzbekistan named after Al- Chacha. Excavated here a remains of a Zoroastrian isher Navoi, Navoiy shoh ko'chasi (West half km cult altar. The complex was surrounded by a moat. from Metro station Abdulla Qodirii or Metro station Yunus Rajabiy, North 300 m from Metro station Mus- taqilliq Maidoni), ☎ +998 71 232-8394, fax: +998 24.5.6 Further afield 71 239-1658, e-mail: [email protected].

• Architectural Complex Zengi-Ata (Комплекс • National Library of Uzbekistan, 51 Xorazm Занги-Ата), Zangiota, M-34 Hwy (In the Zengi- ko'chasi (SE ne block from Amir Timur Monument), Ata settlement SW ﬁve km out of Tashkent City ☎ +998 71 2391658. 76 CHAPTER 24. TASHKENT

24.6.1 Parks • Mirzo Ulugbek Recreation Park, 21 Hamidulla Oripov ko'chasi (From Metro station Hamid Olimjon ten mins walk to south).

• Tashkent Zoo (From Metro station Bodomzor (Бадамзар) toward east. - South of the Botanical Garden).

• Aqua Park (Amir Temur Rd, near TV tower. Metro station Bodomzor). The water park has several pools, one with a wave machine, water chutes, and high slides. Well worth a few hours in hot weather. Take your own towel and pool footwear (the paths can get very hot). There is a restaurant and bars inside. Adult, UZS7,000; child, UZS4,000 for 3 hours.

Alisher Navoiy Park • Tashkentland (Near Aqua park, not far from Tashkent TV Tower. - Metro station Bodomzor right there.). An amusement park. It has few nice rides, • Abdulla Kadiri Recreation Park (Abdulla nothing special if you have been in big park, but a Qodiriy nomli bog’i,), Zarqaynar ko'chasi (East of nice place to spend a free afternoon with friends. It Metro station Chorsu). There is a Planetarium is also worth a visit to a simple park in Tashkent. Although they have fewer attractions and are less • Alisher Navoiy Park (Exit Milly Bog Station on the exciting, they give oﬀ a more authentic feeling. Chilonzor line of the Metro). This large park is popu- UZS7,000. lar on the weekends where many weddings are held. A fairground and man-made lake are also well frequented by locals. Cemeteries

• Amir Timur Monument & Park (Монумент • German Cemetery, Yakkasaray District, Sodiq Амиру Темуру), Amir Timur Square (Площадь Miraxmedov ko'chasi (SE two km of Metro station Амир Тимура) (In the centre). Amir Temur in ar- Mirzo Ulugbek). Burial place of soldiers of World mour sits on his horse, holding the reins with his left War II hand and greeting the people with his right hand. A bust of Karl Marx previously occupied the position • Japanese Cemetery, Yakkasaray District, Sodiq during Soviet times. Miraxmedov ko'chasi (Next to German Cemetery). Burial place of soldiers of World War II • Babur Recreation Park, Bobur ko'chasi (SW). A nice park with some boating lake 24.6.2 Stadiums • Boghi Eram Recreation Park. Fun fair for the young and not so young.

• Tashkent Botanical Garden (Ботанический сад, Botanika bog’i, Ботаника боғи), Боғишамол кўчаси (From Metro station Bodomzor (Бадамзар) toward east). The total area covers 66 hectares. The herbarium is a storehouse of unique collec- tions. The Paleobotanical collection include some valued pieces of Middle Jurassic Period Tashkutan from Hissar county, and from Lower-Middle Albian stage, in the southwest part of the Kyzyl Kum region’s Kulzhuktau mountains.

• Japanese Garden (Behind the Intercontinental Ho- tel. Metro station Bodomzor ﬁve mins walk away). Popular during summers. Many couples go there for Bunyodkor Stadium wedding photos. 24.7. BUY 77

• Pakhtakor Stadium (Стадион Пахтакор, Pax- драмы Узбекистана), 34 Navoiy shoh ko'chasi (ул. takor Markaziy Stadioni) (Metro station Paxtakor Навои), (South half km from Metro station Gafur and Metro station Alisher Navoiy are very close). Gulom (Гафура Гуляма)), ☎ +998 71 244-1751, This is a multi-purpose stadium +998 71 244-3375.

• Bunyodkor Stadium (Bunyodkor Stadioni, • Tashkent Circus (Ozbak Davlaat Sirki, Стадион Бунёдкор) (Metro station Mirzo Ulugbek Узбекгосцирк), 1 Zarqaynar ko'chasi (East of is very close.). This is a multi-purpose stadium. Metro station Chorsu), ☎ +998 71 244 3509, e-mail: Mostly for football matches [email protected]..

• Jar Sportcomplex, Laylito'g'on ko'chasi (SW of • Turkiston Palace, Abdulla Qodiriy ko'chasi (East Metro station Chorsu). of The Park Turon). A concert hall. There is a nice fountain before its. 24.6.3 Theaters • State Puppet Theatre (Республиканский театр кукол), Afrosiyob ko'chasi (пр. Космонавтов), 1 • Alisher Navoi Opera and Ballet Theater (Bal- (West of Metro station Kosmonavtlar), ☎ 256-62-46, let and opera, Государственный Академический 256-73-98. Большой Театр оперы и балета имени Алишера • Theatre for Young Audience (Республиканский Навои), Ataturk Kochasi (ул. Ататюрка), 28 театр юного зрителя), Abdulla Qodiriy ko'chasi ( (From Metro station Mustaqilliq (Мустакиллик, ул. А.Кадыри), 13, ☎ 2447597, 2447620. Космонавтов) Maidoni walk. One block south from Russian Drama Theatre), ☎ +998 71 2339081, +998 • Youth Theatre (Молодежный театр 71 2333344, +998 71 2321948. Ticket counter at Узбекистана), 55 Navoiy shoh ko'chasi (ул. the main entrance open on performance days from Навои) (Metro station Alisher Navoiy and Metro sta- 10:00-19:00. Performances, M-F 18:00, Sa-Su, tion Paxtakor are right there), ☎ +998 71 244-1087, 17:00. The theatre was built in neoclassical style +998 71 244-0088, +998 71 244-1089. from the plans of Alexey Shchusev, the architect of Lenin’s Mausoleum in Moscow. The theater has • Ulugh Beg Planetarium, Zarqaynar ko'chasi (East special signiﬁcance for Japanese nationals because of Metro station Chorsu). it was built by Japanese prisoners of war during the WWII. A plate acknowledging their contributions is part of the building. 3-8$,. 24.7 Buy • Istiklol Palace, Bunyodkor shoh ko'chasi (Metro station Bunyodkor), ☎ +998 71 2459251. A concert 24.7.1 Art galleries hall • Art Caravan, 73, Buyuk Turon Str. (Metro station • Ilkhom Theatre (Театр Марка Вайля Ильхом), Mustaqilliq Maidoni), ☎ +998 71 235 5833, +998 71 Pakhator ( ул. Пахтакорская) 5 (Sodlik Hotel), 235 6164, e-mail: [email protected]. Sell- ☎ +998 71 2422241, +998 71 2440403. Ticket ing hand-made goods. counter, 11:00-18:00. Performances, Tu-Sa 18:30. • Progressive theatre. Performances in Russian, Bona Fact (Галерея “Art and Fact”), Sadyka Azi- sometimes with English subtitles. UZS2,500-5,000. mova 3-y str.(Ул. С. Азимова), 20, tupik-3 (Near to Japan Embassy. - From Metro station Amir Temur • Russian Drama Theatre (Академический Xiyoboni SE one km), ☎ +998 71 2320360, e-mail: русский драматический театрУзбекистана), [email protected] [email protected]; fo- Buxoro ko'chasi (ул. Зарафшон) (From Metro [email protected]. M-F 10.00-18. Photo exhi- station Mustaqilliq Maidoni (Мустакиллик) walk bitions and sales. to SE ﬁve mins), ☎ +998 71 233-8165, +998 71 • 233-4210. Caravan Art Gallery, Abdullah Quahor 22 (Near Istiqlol Palace next to Alisher Navoi Monument), • Musical Comedy Theatre (Ташкентский ☎ +998 23 2556296, +998 23 1527555, e-mail: государственный театр музыкальной комедии [email protected]. High quality handicrafts. (оперетты)), Chapanata ko'chasi (Чапаната ул. • квартал «Ц») (NW of Metro station Mirzo Ulug- Granart Art gallery (Арт-Галерея “Granart” bek (Мирзо-Улугбек)), ☎ 277-8592, +998 71 , Художественная галерея), 13a Khamid Al- 277-8529, +998 71 277-8354. imdjan sq.(площадь Хамида Алимджана,), entrance 4, Capital Business Complex (Metro sta- • National Academic Drama Theatre of Uzbek- tion Hamid Olimjon is right there), ☎ +998 istan (Национальный академический театр 71 1205560, fax: +998 71 1205562, e-mail: 78 CHAPTER 24. TASHKENT

[email protected]. Opening hours Tu-Su 1208691, e-mail: [email protected] 11:00 −19:00.. Exhibitions, Sale of artworks, Art Branches: I. Akilov str., 40,, Tashkent city studio, Cultural and educational activities, Art ther- branch ( Yakkasaray district, A. Kahhara str., apy, Collectors club, Developing interior design, 73, Phone : (8-371) 120-83-00 tоshkеntsha- Framing shop [email protected], Fax: 8-371 1208302), Auto- transport Branch, (Yakkasaray district, Mukimiy • Hamar centre - Art gallery, 40, Sharaf Rashidov str., Avenue 1, 9, Phone: 8-371 1203901, 1203902, Str, ☎ +998 712 2565226, fax: +998 71 2523530. avtоtranspо[email protected]); Shayhantaur branch Sells souvenirs. (Shayhantaur district, Furqat str., 9, Phone : 8- • Human House, Usmon Nosir 30/9 (Near the 371 140-39-04 shayhоntо[email protected], Fax Grand Mir Hotel), ☎ +998 71-255-4411, e-mail: : 8-371 140-39-04), Yunusabad branch (Yunus- [email protected]. M-Sa, 10:00-19:00. Fea- abad district, 2 kv., 8, Phone : 8-371 221-80-67 tures handmade crafts and clothing of all sorts, rang- yunusоbо[email protected], Fax : 8-371 221-8067), ing from full outfits to purses to beautiful hand- Sergeli branch (Sergeli district, Masson str., 39, painted tea sets and ceramics at very reasonable Phone : 8-371 257-87-55 [email protected], prices. It is non-profit and is meant to help provide Fax: 8-371 257-44-10) income to the crafts persons, who are often from re- • mote poor villages. Mortgage Bank, Central Office (Ipoteka Bank), Independence Avenue (Prospekt Mustakillik, • Orient House, Amir Temur Str., 51 (Metro sta- проспект Мустакиллик), 17 (Center. Metro station tion Minor right there), ☎ +998 71 235 5833, Amir Temur Xiyoboni and Metro station Yunus Ra- +998 71 2356164, +998 97 3404815, e-mail: jabiy are right there), e-mail: [email protected]. [email protected]. A souvenir shop A Joint-Stock Commercial Bank. • Renessans Culture gallery (Арт-Галерея • Microcredit bank, Head office, 14, Lutfiy street, ☎ "Ренессанс”), Furkata str. (Between Metro station +998 71 273-2811, +998 71 150-56-47 (Helpline), Bunyodkor and Metro station Gafur Gulom), ☎ fax: +998 71 273-0590. +998 71 2449263, +998 71 3930034, +998 71 3930028. Former Pioneer Palace • People’s bank (Xalq Banki), 3, Amir Temur avenue (Амир Темур шоҳ кўчаси) Mirabad district, 24.7.2 Banks ☎ +998 371 1201700, fax: +998 71 120-1703, e-mail: [email protected]. Business hours: M-F 9.00- 13.00, and 14.00-18.00.

• NBU Republic of Uzbekistan (National Bank of Foreign Economic Activities of Uzbekistan), Amir Temur street, 101 (Metro: Bodomzor), ☎ +998 71 233-6070, +998 71 234-4771, +998 71 235-9060, fax: +998 71235-90-20, e-mail: [email protected].

• Uzpromstroybank (Uzbek Industrial and Commer- cial Bank), Yunusabad district Shaxrisabzkaya str. (Юнусабадский район, ул. Шахрисабз), 3, e- mail: [email protected]. M-F 09:00-13:00, 14:00- 18:00..

Bank building in Tashkent • Central Bank of the Republic of Uzbekistan (CBU, Ўзбекистон Республикаси Марказий банки), Uzbekistan avenue (Ўзбекистон шоҳ • Agrobank, Head Oﬃce, Street Mukimi, 43, ☎ 371 кўчаси), 6. (Next to State Academic Grand Theatre 2770822, 371 1506765 (Helpline), fax: 150-53-95, named after Alisher Navoi), ☎ +998 71 2126010, e-mail: headoﬃ[email protected]. +998 71 2525739, +998 71 2126299, fax: +998 71 2333509, e-mail: [email protected]. M-F 09.00-18.00. • Bank “Asaka”, Nukus str., 67 (Take Bus 2, 12, 80, 81, or Marshrutka 17, 62, 95, 136, 153 to stop Mirobad Bozori. - Metro Most tourists change money at the black markets. For station Toshkent 15 mins walk), ☎ +998 371 more information see the the Uzbekistan#Buy section. 1208111, +998 71 2005522, fax: +998 71 Best place to do so in Tashkent is around Chorsu Bazaar. 24.7. BUY 79

least noisy and crowded bazaar in Tashkent. Only here can you can buy button and oyster mushrooms, Caspian sturgeon, and Far Eastern salmon.

• Farkhatsky Bazaar. Selling only melons, especially in Sep-Oct.

• Hippodrome Bazaar, Chilanzar District (Two km SW of Metro station Olmazar, take a tram from there). Daily except M. Best for (leather) clothing, shoes. Very crowded.

• Parkentsky Bazaar. Best for beer, biscuits, cigarettes, coffee, cookies, cooking oil, soft drinks, liquor in large quantities. Market • Yunusabad Food Market (Юнусабадский 24.7.3 Bazaars продуктовый рынок), Ahmad Donish ko'chasi (From Metro station Habib Abdullayev north one Most local residents do their primary shopping in bazaars. km). Local produce, such as fruit, nuts, vegetables can be very good, especially when they are in season. In the late summer, local melons appear on the streets and in the bazaars 24.7.4 Broadway and are tasty and very cheap. Saligokh St, known locally as “Broadway”, has some street artists, etc. The street is easy to find from the Amir • Chorsu Bazaar (Eski Juva)(Heart of Old Town, Temur Monument, just head away from the Uzbekistan next to Chorsu Sq.- Metro station Chorsu is right Hotel. The 'mirstore' just off of Saligokh St has a mod- there). The biggest and the most exiting orien- ern supermarket, coffee bar and hugely overpriced fash- tal market in Tashkent. Eski Juva Bazaar is the ion stores. This area, known locally as “Demir,” also has biggest and oldest bazaar in Central Asia, operat- Mir Burger, which has burgers, pizza and local dishes at ing on the same spot for over 2,000 years. The stalls reasonable prices. There is also a Georgian restaurant of the bazaar stand under seven huge domes cov- (“Tblisi”) and a Chinese restaurant. There is a heavy po- ered with colored glazed tiles. In the biggest domed lice (militsiya) presence here and foreigners are not often, building you will find all kinds of spices and cook- but occasionally asked for their documents. It is advisable ing herbs: saffron, brown tree bark, red and black to keep a photocopy of your passport and visa with you, pepper, thyme and cloves, nutmeg, cardamom, as but leave the originals in the hotel safe. well as raisins, and dried apricots, almonds and pis- tachios, walnuts and peanuts. The bazaar is fa- Recently, modern designer fashion and shops selling lux- mous for peanuts boiled in sugar or honey, cov- ury goods from famous international brands have started ered with sesame seeds. Under the small domes to appear in Tashkent. Catering for the wealthy, these can are the workshops. Here craftsmen make and sell be found in the Broadway area, on Amir Temur Street and jewelry, painted cradles (beshik); gold embroidery; Pushkin Street. Uzbek chests with metal decorations; embroidered suzanes (thin tapestries), jiyak (lace for trimming the lower edges of women’s trousers); quilted men’s 24.7.5 Department Stores, Malls (chapan) and women’s (yashmak) caftans; kurpacha quilts, and pichok knives in leather or brass • Central Department Store (Tashkent Depart- sheaths, and national musical instruments. Potters ment Store (Former TSUM)), 17, Uzbekistan Ave. offer lyagan dishes and kosa bowls with blue and (O'zbekiston shoh ko'chasi) (Between Metro station turquoise painted patterns. You will also find carpets Mustaqilliq Maidoni and Metro station Kosmonavt- from Khiva, Samarkand, Bukhara, Afghanistan, and lar), ☎ +998 712 256 3001, +998 71 233 6288. Turkey. Could be find some souvenir.

• Central Market (Oloy Bozori, known to most lo- • Tashkent Shopping Center (Turkuaz Chorsu), cals as the Alayskee Bazaar), Amir Timur St (Metro Navoiy shoh ko'chasi (Metro station Chorsu). station Abdulla Qodirii ﬁve mins walk, near to Dede- man Hotel). Beautifully laid out displays of local • Trade Center Tashkent Plaza, 107, Amir Temur produce, dried fruit, and nuts. Every Friday and Sat- Str (Next to International Business Center), ☎ +998 urday there is a wholesale dried fruit bazaar. The 71 2389408, e-mail: [email protected]. 80 CHAPTER 24. TASHKENT

• Shopping center Poytakht (Торговый центр Пойтахт), Buyuk Turon Str. (Mustakillik Metro Sta- tion).

• Universam Yunusabad, Amir Temur Str (Амир Темур шоҳ кўчаси) (Right opp. to Yunusabad Food Market). Department Store

24.7.6 Handicrafts

• Abdulkasym Madrassah (Metro Xalqar Dostligi). Lacquer paintings with oriental motifs.

• Rakhimov Ceramics Studio, Kukchka Dabaza 15, Salvador Dalí restaurant ☎ +998 14 90435. By appointment.

• Hamza Art Gallery, Caravan Cafe and Restaurant, • Bravissimo (Junction of Shahrisabz & Movaroun- 22, A. Kakhar Str. tel.: +998 712 2556296, e-mail: nakhr St). Serves cakes and good local food. Rus- [email protected] sian language only. • Souvenir Shops also can be find in some hotel as: • Bukhara Food (Corner of Shahristan St, near Mu- Grand Mir, InterContinental, Dedeman Silk Road, seum of Repression). Offer cheap, good quality Tashkent Palace, Uzbekistan Hotel food. Try the Following dishes: lavash (Armenian), shurpa (Uzbek), kazi kabob (Uzbek). 24.7.7 Supermarkets • Cafe Bukhara (Near the railway station (Avliyoota St and little ring road intersection)). Cheap and tasty • Kontinent (Near the Grand Mir Hotel at Usmon local food. Nice atmosphere and you can buy your Nosir, Shota Rustavelli). Good supermarket with a drinks in a shop next to the place. wide range of stuff. • Central Asian Plov Center, 1 Guards Colonel • Turkuaz Hypermart (Formerly GUM), Akhun- Khodjaev St (1 ул. Ифтихор) (Near TV tower and babaev Sq (W end of Navoi, across the street from Museum of Victims of Repression). Plov is available Hotel Chorsu). 09:00-20:30. Good for Western for lunch, together with fresh tomato and other sal- clothing and travel accessories. ads. All the plov is prepared outside in huge caul- drons. Go early as the place gets packed and sometimes they run out. 24.8 Eat • Dilkash, Mirobod Ko'chasy. Specialty is shashlik from UZS7,000 and up, fresh salads, and non. There are hundreds of small cafes in Tashkent (and other Plov and soup also available. No liquor is sold on Uzbek cities and villages) offering these and other local premises, but nearby shops sell vodka and beer. dishes at inexpensive prices. A meal of salad, bread, tea, • Neft i Gaz Kitchen (Not far from Amir Temur Blvd soup, and shashlik at around USD2-3 isn't difficult to find. and Westminster University. If you ask around peo- Sanitation standards can leave a lot to be desired in many ple will know it). 12:00-16:00. A company canteen, of these cafes. Especially on warm days, look to see if the but many people go there, as it is cheap and tasty. It meat is kept refrigerated before it is cooked. Before meals serves most traditional dishes: plov, lagman (a soup you will always be offered warm water poured over your with spaghetti, meat and other ingredients), borsh. hands from a jug. Before drinking tea, it is traditional to Languages are Russian and Uzbek, but it is easy to bless the cup with the first splash of tea from the pot. This order, as it is canteen type and you can just point serves ritual and hygienic purposes. Locals also believe in to what you want. Lunch shouldn't cost more than the sterilising properties of vodka. UZS2,000.

24.8.1 Budget 24.8.2 Mid-range

There are many small restaurants serving simple meals at • Amfora Greek Restaurant (АМфОРА), good prices. Burgers and kebabs are common. Borsch Yakkasaray District (Near junction of Shahrisabz (soup) is tasty and perfect on a cold day. and Movarounnakhr). 24.9. DRINK 81

• Ariston, Sabir Rahimov, St Lashkarbegi, 2 (Off 24.8.3 Splurge Pushkin St). Like Polyanka, excellent food and cabaret entertainment (suitable for families). 24.9 Drink • Ariston Park. One of a few good places to eat in Boghi Eram Recreation Park. As is common in other Central Asian countries, tea is drunk by most people, but without milk. Black coffee is • Caravan, A Khalkat kochasi 22a. Breakfast also available everywhere. Some coffee shops and cafes USD10, lunch USD15, dinner USD20. offer good coffee, but the best of them is probably Amore Coffee at the MIR store just off of Broadway. • Al Delfin. Excellent Arabic food. Great sheesha Alcoholic drinks are readily available. Outdoor bars are can be found here. popular in good weather. Uzbek wine, vodka, and many • Jumanji, 62/2 Yunus Khos Khodjib St and K. different beers are available. The Russian beer “Baltika” Jalilov St intersection, ☎ +998 71 2554200. 12:00- is popular. Baltika 3 is good and similar to other interna- 23:00. One of the best restaurants in town. Serves tional beers. Baltika 0 has no alcohol, Baltika 5 and 7 are big portions of high quality Chinese, central Asian, also good, and Baltika 9 is very strong. A new local beer, and European food. Lunch USD15, dinner USD20. Sarbast, has been launched and should be about half the price of imported beers. It is quite good and at 4.2% (red • Khan Kuk Kwan. Korean food. label), not too strong. Sarbast is also available with a blue label at 5.6%. • Mir Burger (On Tashkent Broadway). So-called Nightclubs, as everywhere, offer expensive drinks and Turkish McDonalds. typically play a mix of Russian and Western music. Strip shows are common. • Nam Dae Mun, 24 Bukhara St (Near Alisher Navoi Theatre and Broadway), ☎ +998 71 2320105. Fine • Chelsea Arms (Kakhara St). English pub. It looks Korean and Japanese restaurant. Reasonably priced. like it has been transplanted from the East End of • Pizzeria Bella Napoli, 63, U. Nasir St (Next to Bon! London. Free Wi-Fi. coffee shop), ☎ +998 2539183, +998 2539184. • Club Diplomat (S Navoy St 200m from Dedeman 11:00-23:00. Small pizzeria, great atmosphere, and Hotel). Billiard tables. It can be very busy and get- reasonably priced too (suitable for families). You ting in may be difficult if your face does not fit. might need to reserve a table on weekends as the UZS3,000 (free for ladies). place gets packed some evenings. Free delivery. • Diamond Club (Below Arkada Centre on the Broad- • Polyanka Cafe (Near Boghi Eram Recreation Park). way). New and modern nightclub with a sci-fi Excellent food and cabaret entertainment (suitable theme. Check out the “Predator” look-alikes. for families). • Fashion Bar, 25 Kunaev St (At the junction with • Ristorante Semo de Roma, 40, Shahrisabz St). Modern bar/cafe, showing Fashion Chekhov St, ☎ 1501835, 1501836, e-mail: TV on large screens with music until late at night. [email protected]. 10:30-23:00. One of the • New Irish Pub (Istikbol St). best Italian restaurants in town. Excellent food and a very nice terrace. Lunch USD10, Dinner USD15. • Patrick Irish Pub, 45a Istikbol St (Istiqbol ko'chasi) (About one km South from Metro station • La Riva (Next to Salvador Dali nightclub.). Fast Amir Temur Xiyoboni). food plus huge variety of different international dishes from Russia, Korea, Italy, Tatarstan. Many • Rich (In the Dedeman Hotel). Nightclub. college students drop in throughout the day and the • Studio Cafe (S Azimova St). Modern cafe/bar with evening. good food and drink. • Salvador Dalí restaurant (Salvador Dalí tamad- • Chalet, ☎ +998 71 2338639, e-mail: dixonasi). [email protected]. Great bar in the centre of the city. Beer from UZS7,000. • Sultan Fast food, Mustafo Kamol Otaturk ko'chasi. • Bars in the park on Broadway. The park in the middle of town adjoining the shopping street has two • Tang Cheng Chinese Restaurant, 60A Amir bars in pavilions. These are great places for a drink Temur St, ☎ +998 71 1358916. Good Chinese on a sunny day, with basic meals available. (updated restaurant. Feb 2016) 82 CHAPTER 24. TASHKENT

24.10 Sleep 7899, e-mail: [email protected]. A two star hotel with excellent staﬀ. In the suburbs but Tashkent’s hotel scene for budget and mid-range accom- near a metro station. Economy rooms are with modation is not very welcoming, but improving slowly. shared bath. Sgl / Dbl $35/45, Economical Sgl / Dbl $28/35. • Mirzo guesthouse, 95 Sagban St (Short walk to 24.10.1 Budget north from Chorsu Metro), ☎ +998 93 3796668 (English), +998 71 2443794 (Russian), e-mail: [email protected]. Traditional house. Clean. Friendly owner. He often plays traditional music for the guests. Wi-Fi in the evening only. Dorm, USD15; Dbl USD35-40. • Orzu Hotel (Гостиница Орзу), Ivliev Str (уллица Ивлева), 14 (Near to Raduss Hotel. From Metro station Oybek and Metro station Ming Orik toward southwest), ☎ +998711208822, fax: +998711208824. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. A two star hotel. 34 Rooms, Six- teen singles, sixteen doubles Single/Double/Triple $45/65/80 (2013). • Tashkent Apartment, 9 Damariq (Near Nukus St Darhan quarter near to Inconel Business Centre and Glinka St intersection). A house with three separate bedrooms, owned by PageTour travel agency. Owners are very nice and helpful; no problem to ar- • Gulnara’s B&B (Гостевой дом "Гульнара"), range pickup from airport, book train tickets or help Ozhod Street (Short walk from Chorsu Bazaar Metro to change money on the market. Only downside that Station), ☎ +998 93 402816, +998 93 1447766 ?, they do not provide registration slips for your stay e-mail: [email protected]. Clean, and comfort- (Aug 2012). (GPS N 41.17.02.2, E 069.15.44.1) able. Rides from the airport can be arranged for a reasonable price. Unfortunately the owner can be very rude and unfriendly sometimes. Sgl / Dbl 24.10.2 Mid-range $20/40, dorm, USD15 (2014).

• Glen Eden Hotel (Гостиница Глен-Эден), Cha- vandoz (ул. Чавандоз), 16-18 (Near to Clinical Psy- chiatric Hospital. - From Metro station Toshkent to south one km), ☎ +998 97 704 4559. A two star hotel. Rooms with bath or shower, air conditioning, direct dial international telephone, internet access, satellite TV, mini-bar, hairdryer. In the hotel: lobby, reception. security service, restaurant, children’s play room. Laundry service. Economical Sgl / Dbl $35/60, Standard Suite Sgl / Dbl $50/75, Busi- ness Suite Sgl / Dbl $75/95..

• Grand Tashkent Hotel (Гранд Ташкент), 57, A. Kahhara-6 (Abdulla Kaxxar 6-tor ko'chasi) (Second house from the Embassy of Amir Timur street Tajikistan), ☎ +998 71 2550599, +998 97 4052677 (mobile), fax: +998 71 2550599, e-mail: • Asia Tashkent Hotel (Азия Ташкент) (Usman [email protected]. A two star Nosir St?), ☎ +998 71 2509687, +998 71 2509688. hotel Standard single/ double/triple $50/60/70, It has an indoor swimming pool, sauna, Turkish Luxury: single/ double $65/75. bath, 72 rooms, nightclub, and is popular among Eu- ropean customers. Sgl from 50$. • Jahongir Hotel (Частный гостевой дом Джахонгир), Chirokchi 4 (From Metro station • Expo Tashkent Hotel (Next to the Expo Centre. - Tinchlik north ten mins walk), ☎ +998 66 2357899, Take a metro to Bodomzor half km northwest from +998 91 5550808 (mobile), fax: +998 66 235 there). 24.10. SLEEP 83

• Grand Ist Hotel, Yakasarayskiy d-ct., Bol- • Shodlik Palace Hotel, Pakhtakor Street shaya Mirabadskaya Street 1/28 (North of Mirabad (Пахтакор кўчаси), 5 (Metro station Paxtakor Bazaar. - Metro station Oybek 15 mins by walk and Metro station Alisher Navoiy are both west of to north), ☎ +998 71 255 5246, +998 90 998- its). A four star hotel 60$+. 9868 Mob(), fax: +998 71 254-7900, e-mail: • [email protected]. Standard Sgl /Dbl or Twin / Tpl Elite Hotel, Street 75, 10, Tashkent 700063, ☎ $65/85$/100, Lux Double/Twin 130$. +998 71 1208829. • Gelikon Vest Hotel, Jarqo'rgòn ko`chasi Street 76 • Grand Orzu Hotel (Отель Гранд Орзу), 2 Ku- A, Tashkent 100073 (East of the Airport. - From naev Street/27 Makhmud Tarabi Ko'chasi (South of Metro station Toshkent take a tram toward south af- Babur Park. - Metro station Oybek two km away). ter Risovyy bazar stop at Jarqo'rgòn ko`chasi Street A three star hotel 50 guestrooms, including twenty (there is a petrol station) turn to east about two hun- one single rooms with king size beds, ten luxe rooms dred meters on the right side is the hotel), ☎ +998 94 and 19 double rooms with two standard beds. Sgl / 3637878. Dbl $ 45/60, De-Lux Sgl / dbl / tpl $65/75/90. • Sambuh Elite Hotel, 10, Tsekhovaya Street, • Grand Raddus Hotel (Гранд Раддус JSS), 11, 2 Tupik-1 (West of Metro station Paxtakor and Metro Passage Kichik Mirobod Street. A three star ho- station Alisher Navoiy), ☎ +998 71 1208826, +998 tel King Size Bed or Twin Sgl./dbl $55/80, VIP dbl 71 120 88 21, e-mail: [email protected]. $130. 38 rooms Single /Double / Triple $55/80/100, deluxe Single /Double $80/100. • Malika Hotel (Малика), 53A Chapanata ko'chasi (Metro station Mirzo Ulugbek), ☎ +998 71 1730203. • Uzbekistan Hotel (Отель Узбекистан,Otel Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 12:00. Probably the O'zbekiston), 45 Hamza Street (Taraqqiyot best bang-for-the-buck in Tashkent. Well-equipped ko'chasi) (Metro station Amir Temur Xiyoboni and and nicely outfitted. Ownership includes an Amer- Metro station Yunus Rajabiy are very close), ☎ +998 ican partner. Services: Restaurant, Business cen- 71 1131111, +998 71 13-1012, +998 71 236-7666, ter, Bar, Laundry and ironing, Parking, Conference fax: +998 71 113-1122,+998 71 113-1090 ,+998 71 hall, Sauna with Jacuzzi. Internet is non-existent in 113-1100, e-mail: [email protected]. rooms, and marginally so in their lobby (email, etc., Offers 285 rooms. Services:dry cleaning, laundry, but no Skype). Also in Samarkand, Bukhara and room Service 24 hours, deposit safe, wake up call, Khiva. Sgl./dbl $40 / 60 / 70 including breakfast. ticketing office, porterage, luggage room, barbers shop, exchange ofice, credit card payment, florists • Oasis Asaka Hotel (Оазис Асака), Khamza Dis- services , gift Shop , free WiFi internet in the hotel, trict. A four star hotel Sgl standard / superior $45 car rental, organization of sightseeing tours, sauna, / 55, Dbl / Tpl $75/ 95, De-Lux Single / Dbl $90 / massage, gym 65$+. 100.

• Rovshan Hotel (Ровшан), 118 Katta Mirabad Str. 24.10.3 Splurge (ул. Мирабадская), 118 (Near the Turkmen Em- bassy), ☎ +998-71 120 7747, fax: +998-71 120 7747. Good service and cold beer sold at reception for UZS2,000 a bottle. Standard room Sgl / Dbl / Tipl $55/70 / 80, deluxe for one /two 70/80 $ (2014).

• Raddus Hotel (Раддус JSS), 39/41 Suleymanova st, Yakkasaray District, (SW two km from Metro station Oybek). A three star hotel 55$+.

• Retro Palace Hotel, 65 Vahidov St. 55$+.

• Sayokhat Hotel (Гостиница Саёхат). A three star hotel.Prices include breakfast only. Free Wi-Fi. Lunch Buﬀet - $15 dinner buﬀet - $15. - Services: Business Center, Room service 24 hours a day, Or- Chorsu Bazar der railway / airline tickets, taxi, Internet, Currency xchange, Laundry, Sauna, Massage, Pool, Parking. Single shower $ 50 - 55 - 65 - 75, Double $90-100, • Hotel BEK (БЕК), 64A Yusuf Hos Hojib (ул. Triple $100, Quadruple $110, Suite $120. Юсуф Хожиб) (North of Babur Recreation Park), ☎ 84 CHAPTER 24. TASHKENT

+998 71 215 5888, +998 71 215 5999, +998 71254 with tea/coﬀee maker, cable/satellite TV, minibar, 8118, +998 71 215 5454. $100. in-room safe, work desk, iron & ironing board (on request), hair dryer, blackout drapers and design • Hotel City Palace (Former Markaziy Hotel, Shera- bathroom with shower and bathtub.Upon request, ton), Amir Temur St (Metro station Yunus Rajabiy a rollaway beds, baby cribs Superior Rooms: from couple mins walk). Opened in 1999 by Sheraton and $150 , Premium Rooms: $170, Privilege Rooms: was run by them until a few years ago, when they $185 (2015). left having lost money after some alleged ﬁnancial irregularities. The hotel is one of Tashkent’s taller • Radisson SAS (Радиссон SAS), 88 Amir Temur buildings. The rooms are still very good, but service Street, (About 2km from the city centre opposite In- and maintenance...Bar/restaurant bills must be paid tercontinental. South of Metro station Bodomzor), ☎ in cash. Classic sgl. / dbl $90/110, Studio sgl. / dbl +998 71 1204900. Four star hotel 200$+. $160/180, Senior Suite sgl. / dbl $320/340 (2014). • Tashkent Palace Hotel (Formerly Le Meridien), • Dedeman Silk Road Hotel (Дедеман), Amir 56, Buyuk Turon St (Central Department Store is Temur St (Between Metro station Yunus Rajabiy and right there.), ☎ +998 71 1205800. A four star, Metro station Abdulla Qodirii), ☎ +998 71 23401, traditionally-styled and visually impressive hotel. fax: +998 71 234242. Excellent hotel in the city Very poor Internet. 155$+. centre. Drinks are overpriced. Free Internet connection in rooms. USD160+.

• Miran International Hotel (Отель “Miran In- 24.11 Phones, Post Oﬃces ternational”), Borovskiy ko'chasi (Shakhrisabz Pas- sage 4,). A ﬁve star luxury hotel Deluxe sgl. / dbl $130/160, Superior 400/400$, Premium Suite 600/600$.

• Grand Mir Hotel (Гран Мир), 2 Kunaeva St (SW from Metro station Ming Orik, Metro station Oybek), ☎ +998 71 1402000, fax: +998 71 1402040, e-mail: [email protected]. A four star luxury hotel for business travellers. Wi-Fi. Rates include ﬁtness centre and a healthy breakfast. 130$+.

• Le Grande Plaza Hotel (Formerly BUMI, Гостиница Ли Гранд Плаза), 2 Uzbekiston Ovozi St (Metro station Amir Temur Xiyoboni and Metro station Yunus Rajabiy are very close). Executive floor with lounge, outdoor pool, South Indian restau- Tashkent Central Post Office rant. 10km from airport. USD150-200. • Hotel Ichan Qala, Yusuf Hos Hojib ko'chasi ( ул. • Beeline Mobil Office, 1 Buxoro ko'chasi. Юсуф-Хос-Хожиб), 75/10 (Close to State Pedagog- ical University and BEK hotel). A four star hotel. • East Telekom Office, Chehov ko'chasi (From Sixty eight rooms: Superior, DeLuxe, Junior Suite, Metro station Oybek SW ten mins walk). Suite, Presidential Suite and Villa Standart Сглгл / Dbl $125/150, Delux Room /en- Suite Room • Central Post Office (Pochtamti), 7 Shahrisabz $180/250, Junior Suite/Senior Suite $290/375, Ex- ko'chasi (Metro station Abdulla Qodirii), ☎ +998 71 ecutive Suite Room $415, Villa Khorezm $2500. 233 47 49.

• InterContinental Hotel, ул. А.Тимура, 107А (Amir Temur St Next to Tashkent Funland, Japanese 24.12 Stay safe Garden), ☎ +998 71 1207000, fax: +998 71 1206459. USD181-2,200. Tashkent is generally a very safe place to visit. However, • Ramada Tashkent (Former Hotel Park Turon, visitors should refrain from political activities or doing Парк Турон), 1 Abdulla Qodiriy ko'chasi (Between anything that could be regarded as undermining the state. Metro station Gafur Gulom and Metro station Ab- As anywhere, remember to watch your personal belong- dulla Qodirii), ☎ +998 71 1406000, fax: +998 71 ings. There have been incidents of robbery, including 140 6030, e-mail: [email protected] some violent assaults but they are very rare. Travellers four star hotel. One hundred twenty deluxe roorms should use the same caution they would use in any large 24.13. COPE 85 city, especially at night. It is not advisable for foreigners • Bangladesh, Vahidov St., 33, ☎ +998 71 1206711, to walk around alone at night, especially in areas where +998 71 2540421, fax: +998 71 1206711, e-mail: few people are about and/or lighting is poor. Police some- [email protected]. times levy small on-the-spot fines for minor offences such as appearing to be slightly intoxicated. • Belarus, 53, Vokhidov St/ Gulyamov St, ☎ +998 12 07252, +998 12 05233, +998 15 27258, fax: +998 The emergency number is ☎ 103 for medical emergencies 12 07253, e-mail: [email protected]. and ☎ 101 for fires, while the police emergency number is ☎ 102. Major clinics are listed below: • Belgium, 10, Karimov St /Navoi avenue, 18б, ☎ +998 15 25942, fax: +998 71 241-40-39. Only • Stomaservice (Dental clinic), Buyuk Ipak Juli, ☎ Honorary Consulate +998 26 68899, +998 11 05588. • Bulgaria, 52, Rakatboshi St, ☎ +998 56 4888, fax: • Klinik/Hospital 1, Machlor Oim St 40, ☎ +998 26 +998 15 23952, e-mail: [email protected]. 48105, +998 26 40511, +998 26 48105. • Canada, 56, Usman Nosir St, Apt 39-40, ☎ +998 • Klinik/Hospital 2, Aschgabadskaya St 3, ☎ +998 71 2539205, fax: +998 71 253-92-05, e-mail: 26 74265. [email protected]. A small Honorary Con- sulate to aid citizens. Most affairs handled through • Tashkent International Medical Clinic (TIMC), the Canadian Embassy in Moscow. For emergency Sarikul St 38, ☎ +998 29 10142, +998 29 10726, after-hour service, call the Moscow Embassy +7 emergencies: 1858481, 1084457. Medical and den- (495) 925-6000. tal care. • China, 79, Gulyamov St (Next to Belarussian Em- • VIP Poliklinik, Sadik Asimov St 67, ☎ +998 13 bassy), ☎ +998 13 38088, +998 13 60851, fax: 62625, +998 13 94260. +998 13 34735.

• Czech Republic, 9, Hidirali Ergashev St, ☎ +998 24.13 Cope 12 07733, fax: +998 71 1206075. • Egypt, 53, Chilanzar St, ☎ +998 12 05008, +998 24.13.1 Embassies and Consulates 12 05009, fax: +998 12 06452.

• France, 25 Qo’qon Yuli Rd (Next to Academy of Sciences of the Republic of Uzbekistan), ☎ +998 71 2335382. 09:00-12:00, 15:00-17:00.

• Georgia, 16, Tarobiy St, ☎ +998 16 26243, +998 16 29139, fax: +998 54 6535, e-mail: gruzemb@geo- embassy.co.uz.

• Germany, 15, Sharaf Rashidov Ko'chasi (Courage Monument, near to River Anhor, one km northwest of Metro station Abdulla Qodirii), ☎ +998 12 08440, +998 12 08472, emergencies:+998 18 15406 (Ger- man), +998 18 15407 (Russian and Uzbek), fax: +998 12 08450, +998 12 08485, visas:+998 12 Monumental Building of the French Embassy 08480. M-Th, 08:00-12:00, 13:00-17:00, F 08:00- 11:00.

• Afghanistan, 6, Murtazaev St, ☎ +998 13 48432, • India, 15/16, Kara-Bulak Street ( Korabulok +998 13 48458, fax: +998 13 42634, e-mail: Ko'chasi) (North of Metro station Pushkin), ☎ +998 [email protected]. 12 04996, +998 12 04997, fax: +998 13 61976, e- mail: [email protected]. • Australia, ☎ +7 495 956 6070. Australian Embassy in Moscow is accredited to Uzbekistan. • Indonesean Embassy, 73 Yahyo Gulyamov ko'chasi (Center.). e-Visa http://evisa. • Azerbaidjan, 25, Shark Tongi St (ул. Шарк kbri-tashkent.go.id/ Тонги) (Oliy Madjlis Bldg), ☎ +998 17 36167, +998 17 33717, +998 13 48458, fax: +998 71 273 2658, • Iran, 20, Parkentskaya St, ☎ +998 686968, fax: e-mail: [email protected]. +998 12 06761, 687818. 86 CHAPTER 24. TASHKENT

• Israel, 3, Abdulla Kahar St (улица А.Каххара) around 20 days with no express service, no need to (East to Babur Park), ☎ +998 12 05808, +998 12 leave the passport, payment on pick-up, USD55 for 05807, fax: +998 71 407555. M- F 09:00-13:00. 3-day transit visa. [Aug 2012] {GPS N 41.18.06.9, E 069.16.12.9 } • Italy, 40, Yusuf Hos Hojib St, ☎ +998 15 21119, +998 15 21120, fax: +998 71 1206606, e-mail: • Ukraine, 68, Yahyo Gulyamov St (Next to Academy [email protected]. of Sciences of the Republic of Uzbekistan), ☎ +998 13 6012, +998 13 35523, fax: +998 13 31089. • Japan, 1/28, Sadyk Azimov St (One block east to Chinese Embassy), ☎ +998 12 08060, • United Kingdom, 67, Gulyamov Street (Yahyo +998 12 08061, fax: +998 12 08077, e-mail: Gulyamov ko'chasi) (Center. From Metro sta- [email protected]. tion Amir Temur Xiyoboni walk to east on O'zbekiston Ovozi ko'chasi and at second cross- • Kazakhstan, 23, Chehov St (ул. ЧЕХОВА) ing turn right), ☎ +998 71 1207852, e-mail: (Southeast of Metro station Oybek), ☎ +998 15 [email protected]. M-F 09:00-17:00. 21654, +998 13 60986. M-F, 09:00-12:00. USD30. • United States, 3 Moyqorghon St, 5th Block, Yunusobod District (Far to north. - First to Metro • Kyrgyzstan, 30, Samatov St, ☎ +998 13 74794. station Habib Abdullayev further two km north), ☎ • Netherlands, 77, Usmon Nasirov St, ☎ +998 12 +998 71 120 5450, fax: +998 71 1206335, e-mail: 06141, fax: +998 12 06367. [email protected]. M-F 09:00-18:00. For after-hours emergencies, American citizens should • New Zealand, ☎ +7 495 956 3579. NZ Embassy in call +998 71 120 5450. Embassy includes an In- Moscow handles aﬀairs with Uzbekistan. formation Resource Center with a small library, English-language magazines, free Internet access, • Russian Federation, 83, Nukus St (Mirabad and access to several large electronic databases of Market. - Metro station Toshkent one km north- information. Staﬀ can also help Uzbeks wanting west), ☎ +998 15 26280, +998 12 03519, to practice speaking English and answer questions fax: +998 15 22143, +998 12 03504, e-mail: about the US and US-Uzbek relations. [email protected].

• South Africa, 30A, Asaka St, ☎ +998 13 70170, +998 13 71824, fax: +998 13 72546. 24.14 Go next • South Korea (From Metro station Ming Orik to • Samarkand - Part of the UNESCO World Heritage north three mins walk). list • Spain Consulate, 25, Kichik Besh-Yogoch St, ☎ +998 15 25027.

• Switzerland, Blind alley 1, 4, Nosir St, ☎ +998 12 06738, +998 12 06739, fax: +998 12 06259.

• Tajikistan, 61, Abdulla Kahor St (From Babur Recreation Park one km south), ☎ +998 54 9966, fax: +998 54 8969.

• Turkey, 87, Gulyamov St (Republican Oﬃce of Public Prosecutor) (Next to Chinese Embassy. Cen- ter), ☎ +998 13 38037, +998 13 72104, +998 13 32107, fax: +998 12 06536, +998 13 31358.

• Turkmenistan, 16, Tarobiy St, ☎ +998 12 05278, +998 12 05279, fax: +998 12 05281. The consulate is on the back. You need to arrive really early. From 06:00 people start to gather. Write your name on the list by the guards place and then wait. At around 10:00 somebody will come, shout the names on the 1st list to check if the people are still present and copy them to a 2nd list, which is the oﬃcial one and after that according with that list you can enter the consulate by turns. For transit visa it takes 24.15. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 87

24.15 Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses

24.15.1 Text • Uzbekistan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Uzbekistan?oldid=2935885 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Sertmann, Jpatokal, Syced, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Pbsouthwood, Dguillaume, Sumone10154, An- dreCarrotflower, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Ypsilon, Vidimian, Inas, Pashley, Globe-trotter, Yann, Cacahuate, Romaine, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) InterLangBot, (WT-en) Roundtheworld, (WT-en) Abi, (WT-en) Jake73, (WT-en) Gtbob12, (WT-en) Travelbird, (WT-en) Xania, (WT-en) Bijee, (WT-en) Davidbstanley, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) CIAWorldFactbook2002, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Akajoey, (WT-en) Ilikescider, (WT-en) Mark Richards, (WT-en) Darameja, (WT-en) Sexy Fried Chicken, (WT-en) Furkat, (WT-en) Www.bukhara.travel, (WT-en) Valentincom, (WT-en) Linhtetaung, (WT-en) Uzbekfriends, (WT-en) Tierecke, (WT-en) Uzbek, (WT-en) Andrew.macaskill, (WT-en) Zulya, The dog2, Ikan Kekek, Felix505, The Anomebot2, Sergey kudryavtsev, Andrewssi2, Sumone’s bot, EvanProdromou, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, MarkJaroski, Yvwv, Sapphire, Naryathegreat~enwikivoyage, Andyrom75, Texugo, ChubbyWimbus, WOSlinker, Hshook, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Ahmad Alharbi, Matroc, Addbot, Armigo~enwikivoyage, Uhkabu, MargNely and Anonymous: 118 • Samarkand Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Samarkand?oldid=2897430 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Pbsouthwood, Dguillaume, W. Frank, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Pashley, Globe-trotter, Cacahuate, Alice, ClausHansen, Ste- fan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Ilkirk, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT- en) Jake73, (WT-en) Gobbler, (WT-en) Tour.tk, (WT-en) J-P, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Darameja, (WT-en) Dhc529, (WT- en) Www.bukhara.travel, (WT-en) Heyheybooboo, (WT-en) Jabez, (WT-en) Uzbekfriends, Mey2008, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, Jonte--, The Anome, The Anomebot2, Denniss, CarsracBot, Texugo, ChubbyWimbus, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Armigo~enwikivoyage, Olivier, Uhkabu, Mikesher navoiy, HGK745, Bobyr and Anonymous: 24 • Ferghana Valley (Uzbekistan) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ferghana_Valley_(Uzbekistan)?oldid=2953443 Contributors: Gobbler, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Pashley, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Darameja, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Trav- eler100bot and Anonymous: 2 • Andijan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Andijan?oldid=2936687 Contributors: Gobbler, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Inas, Pashley, Jonboy, Xltel, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Darameja, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 6 • Chust Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Chust?oldid=2936644 Contributors: Gobbler, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, (WT-en) Darameja, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 2 • Ferghana Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ferghana?oldid=2661098 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Pashley, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Davidbstanley, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Darameja, Eco84, The Anomebot2, Sumone’s bot, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Matroc, Addbot, Uhkabu and Anonymous: 4 • Kokand Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kokand?oldid=2936568 Contributors: Gobbler, Pashley and Ymblanter • Namangan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Namangan?oldid=2936633 Contributors: Wrh2, Gobbler, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Pashley, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Darameja, Eco84, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1 • Pop Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Pop?oldid=2936638 Contributors: Wrh2, Gobbler, Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Pashley, Snowolf, (WT-en) Darameja, (WT-en) Etien, The Anome, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 2 • Northern Uzbekistan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Northern_Uzbekistan?oldid=2958510 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Burmesedays, Texugo, ChubbyWimbus and Traveler100bot • Ayaz-Kala Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ayaz-Kala?oldid=2538742 Contributors: LtPowers, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, Texugo, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Smokestack Basilisk • Khiva Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Khiva?oldid=2718000 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, Atsirlin, Jc8136, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Cacahuate, Saqib, K7L, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Zainiqbal, (WT-en) Travelbird, (WT-en) Thomasdinham, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Darameja, (WT-en) Santacruzshores, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Texugo, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 16 • Moynoq Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Moynoq?oldid=2828292 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT- en) Darameja, Ikan Kekek, Jonte--, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 5 • Nukus Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Nukus?oldid=2855306 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Darameja, (WT-en) Santacruzshores, (WT-en) Venita Stead, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Traveler100, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Aug.rats and Anonymous: 10 • Toprak-Kala Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Toprak-Kala?oldid=2642168 Contributors: LtPowers, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, ChubbyWimbus, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Matroc • Urgench Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Urgench?oldid=2666162 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Atsirlin, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Darameja, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Uhkabu and Anonymous: 3 • Samarkand through Bukhara Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Samarkand_through_Bukhara?oldid=2940926 Contributors: Gob- bler, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Pashley, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1 • Bukhara Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bukhara?oldid=2936761 Contributors: Wrh2, Gobbler, Peterfitzgerald, Atsirlin, Dguil- laume, LtPowers, Vidimian, JamesA, Pashley, Cacahuate, Saqib, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) DanielC, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en) Gobbler, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) Tour.tk, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Darameja, (WT-en) Www.bukhara.travel, (WT-en) Sayyortravel, (WT-en) Dreampanorama, Mey2008, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Trav- eler100, CarsracBot, Texugo, ChubbyWimbus, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Nearo, Inasbot, DaGizza, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Quaith, Uhkabu, Smokestack Basilisk and Anonymous: 27 • Southern Uzbekistan Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Southern_Uzbekistan?oldid=2941109 Contributors: Gobbler, Peterfitzger- ald, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Pashley, (WT-en) Coolbola, Texugo and Traveler100bot 88 CHAPTER 24. 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• Qarshi Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Qarshi?oldid=2942177 Contributors: Gobbler • Shakhrizabz Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Shakhrizabz?oldid=2938702 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Gobbler, Pbsouth- wood, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Cacahuate, Saqib, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Darameja, Ikan Kekek, Jonte--, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Jjtkk, Wakefieldgdm, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 1 • Termez Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Termez?oldid=2941179 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Gobbler, Peterfitzgerald, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, Saqib, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Darameja, (WT-en) Coolbola, Jonte--, The Anome- bot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Zenwort and Anonymous: 2 • Tashkent Region Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Tashkent_Region?oldid=2407697 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Tex- ugo and Traveler100bot • Tashkent Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Tashkent?oldid=2952169 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Gobbler, Sertmann, Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, Atsirlin, Jc8136, Pbsouthwood, Dguillaume, Sumone10154, Ypsilon, LtPowers, AHeneen, Vidimian, Inas, Pash- ley, Globe-trotter, Jonboy, Cacahuate, Saqib, Nurg, Jjbraam, Romaine, ClausHansen, (WV-en) Kalakar, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) Rouge, (WT-en) Lime, (WT-en) Stidmatt, (WT-en) Davidbstanley, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) Jtesla16, (WT-en) Schlauer Adler, (WT-en) Akajoey, (WT-en) Darameja, (WT-en) AndreasAndreas, (WT-en) Jai bhatt, (WT-en) Heyheybooboo, (WT-en) Dasamitabh, (WT-en) Uzbekfriends, (WT-en) Drewjube, (WT- en) Wokfel, (WT-en) John11235813, (WT-en) GalileoFigaro, Thehelpfulbot, Ymblanter, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, Interfase, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Marek69, Sumone’s bot, EvanProdromou, Gorilla Jones, Tiimta, Crochet.david.bot, Seligne, Sapphire, Texugo, ChubbyWimbus, WOSlinker, Northernhenge, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Globetrotter19, Uhkabu, Mikesher navoiy, CommonsDelinker, RichardRegal and Anonymous: 115

24.15.2 Images

• File:Ambassade_de_France_à_Tachkent.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9f/Ambassade_de_ France_%C3%A0_Tachkent.JPG License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: TwoWings • File:Andijan_Jome_Mosque.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/46/Andijan_Jome_Mosque.JPG Li- cense: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Carpodacus • File:Ayaz_Kala_(Khorezm,_Ouzbékistan)_(5608879653).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0f/Ayaz_ Kala_%28Khorezm%2C_Ouzb%C3%A9kistan%29_%285608879653%29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Ayaz Kala (Khorezm, Ouzbékistan) Original artist: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra from Paris, France • File:Ayaz_Kala_(Khorezm,_Ouzbékistan)_(5609461924).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7b/Ayaz_ Kala_%28Khorezm%2C_Ouzb%C3%A9kistan%29_%285609461924%29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Ayaz Kala (Khorezm, Ouzbékistan) Original artist: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra from Paris, France • File:BOKHARA_4X6_FIT.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f6/BOKHARA_4X6_FIT.JPG License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Afghancarpetbiz • File:Bank_building.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/97/Bank_building.jpg License: Public domain Con- tributors: No machine-readable source provided. Own work assumed (based on copyright claims). Original artist: No machine-readable author provided. Azizjon~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). • File:Bazar.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ab/Bazar.JPG License: CC BY 1.0 Contributors: Transferred from fr.wikipedia to Commons by Bloody-libu using CommonsHelper. Original artist: The original uploader was Atilin at French Wikipedia • File:Bukhara01.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/dd/Bukhara01.jpg License: Public domain Contribu- tors: Transferred from en.wikipedia Original artist: • Upladed by Ipaat at en.wikipedia • File:Bukhara07.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7d/Bukhara07.jpg License: Public domain Contribu- tors: Own work Original artist: Ipaat at English Wikipedia • File:Bunyodkor_stadium4.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/53/Bunyodkor_stadium4.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Shohruh • File:Dzhuma-Moschee_Taschkent_2009.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/06/Dzhuma-Moschee_ Taschkent_2009.JPG License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: F.Higer • File:Décor_de_la_mosquée_Khodja_Akhrar_(Samarcande,_Ouzbékistan)_(5646844107).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia. org/wikipedia/commons/f/f4/D%C3%A9cor_de_la_mosqu%C3%A9e_Khodja_Akhrar_%28Samarcande%2C_Ouzb%C3%A9kistan% 29_%285646844107%29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Décor de la mosquée Khodja Akhrar (Samarcande, Ouzbékistan) Original artist: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra from Paris, France • File:Khakim-at-Termezi-Komplex_Gesamt.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c7/ Khakim-at-Termezi-Komplex_Gesamt.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Transferred from de.wikipedia to Commons by Hugo.arg using CommonsHelper. Original artist: The original uploader was Lechhansl at German Wikipedia • File:KhivaWestGate.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/80/KhivaWestGate.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Doron • File:Kok-gumbaz_mosque_Qarshi02.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/66/Kok-gumbaz_mosque_ Qarshi02.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Hylgeriak / Wikipedia • File:KokandPalace.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/70/KokandPalace.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: User:Doron • File:Kokand_Teahouse_(495833).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1d/Kokand_Teahouse_ %28495833%29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Kokand Teahouse Original artist: upyernoz from Haverford, USA 24.15. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES 89

• File:Les_vestiges_du_palais_de_Tamerlan_(Shahrisabz)_(6018352063).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ commons/6/6a/Les_vestiges_du_palais_de_Tamerlan_%28Shahrisabz%29_%286018352063%29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Les vestiges du palais de Tamerlan (Shahrisabz) Original artist: Jean-Pierre Dalbéra from Paris, France • File:LocationUzbekistan.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a4/LocationUzbekistan.png License: Public domain Contributors: ? Original artist: ? • File:Map_mag.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ce/Map_mag.png License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Designer: FatCow Web Hosting (Transferred by TarzanASG) Original artist: The original uploader was Mey2008 at German Wikipedia • File:Mausoleum_of_Amir_Temur_(1).JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fc/Mausoleum_of_Amir_ Temur_%281%29.JPG License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Bobyrr • File:Monument_in_memory_and_honor_in_Qarshi.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/00/ Monument_in_memory_and_honor_in_Qarshi.JPG License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Bobyrr • File:Mosque_Bibi_Khanum_(5).JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ec/Mosque_Bibi_Khanum_%285% 29.JPG License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Bobyrr • File:Nukus_Art_Museum.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/dd/Nukus_Art_Museum.jpg License: CC BY 2.5 Contributors: Own work Original artist: ChanOJ • File:Officer_of_the_Afghan_Border_Police_at_the_Afghanistan–Uzbekistan_Friendship_Bridge.jpg Source: https: //upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/06/Officer_of_the_Afghan_Border_Police_at_the_Afghanistan%E2%80% 93Uzbekistan_Friendship_Bridge.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: This Image was released by the United States Navy with the ID 100527-N-1928O-064 (next). 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Anton Rakitskiy assumed (based on copyright claims). • File:Termiz,_Fayoz-Tepe_(6240998331).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/dd/Termiz%2C_ Fayoz-Tepe_%286240998331%29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Termiz, Fayoz-Tepe Original artist: Arian Zwegers • File:Termiz_ArchaeNuseum_20141023.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/61/Termiz_ArchaeNuseum_ 20141023.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Zenwort • File:UZNukuspano.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ed/UZNukuspano.JPG License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: Ds02006 • File:UZS5000_2013_rear.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/94/UZS5000_2013_rear.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Self-scanned Original artist: Kirill1999 • File:UZ_Ayaz_Kale_a3.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/10/UZ_Ayaz_Kale_a3.jpg License: CC BY- SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Hergit • File:Uzbekistan_State_Art_Museum.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/53/Uzbekistan_State_Art_ Museum.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Abdullais4u • File:Uzbekistan_regions_map.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d8/Uzbekistan_regions_map.png Li- cense: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: :Image:Uzbekistan regions map.svg Original artist: Peter Fitzgerald • File:Двухпалубный_с_куполом_обзора_САЗ_4000.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7f/%D0% 94%D0%B2%D1%83%D1%85%D0%BF%D0%B0%D0%BB%D1%83%D0%B1%D0%BD%D1%8B%D0%B9_%D1%81_%D0% BA%D1%83%D0%BF%D0%BE%D0%BB%D0%BE%D0%BC_%D0%BE%D0%B1%D0%B7%D0%BE%D1%80%D0%B0_%D0% A1%D0%90%D0%97_4000.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Alexpickul 90 CHAPTER 24. 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• File:Национальный_парк,_Ташкент.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/15/%D0%9D%D0%B0% D1%86%D0%B8%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%B0%D0%BB%D1%8C%D0%BD%D1%8B%D0%B9_%D0%BF%D0%B0%D1%80% D0%BA%2C_%D0%A2%D0%B0%D1%88%D0%BA%D0%B5%D0%BD%D1%82.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Alexandronikos • File:Свято_Успенский_кафедральный_собор_ташкента._Зима.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ commons/f/ff/%D0%A1%D0%B2%D1%8F%D1%82%D0%BE_%D0%A3%D1%81%D0%BF%D0%B5%D0%BD%D1%81%D0% BA%D0%B8%D0%B9_%D0%BA%D0%B0%D1%84%D0%B5%D0%B4%D1%80%D0%B0%D0%BB%D1%8C%D0%BD%D1% 8B%D0%B9_%D1%81%D0%BE%D0%B1%D0%BE%D1%80_%D1%82%D0%B0%D1%88%D0%BA%D0%B5%D0%BD%D1% 82%D0%B0._%D0%97%D0%B8%D0%BC%D0%B0.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Velikorus • File:Схема_Ташкентского_метрополитена.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2f/%D0%A1% D1%85%D0%B5%D0%BC%D0%B0_%D0%A2%D0%B0%D1%88%D0%BA%D0%B5%D0%BD%D1%82%D1%81%D0%BA% D0%BE%D0%B3%D0%BE_%D0%BC%D0%B5%D1%82%D1%80%D0%BE%D0%BF%D0%BE%D0%BB%D0%B8%D1%82% D0%B5%D0%BD%D0%B0.png License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Maximiljan

24.15.3 Content license

• Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0