1 IF )gical Provinces A treatise on the basic ecological geography I of the state

4 Jill 1998 i 1110 E. William Anderson, Michael M. Borman, and William C. Krueger cr, Oregon Agricultural Experiment Station 11 -tp . ll--,

l s6Zl.tZ4 May 1998 SR 990 $40.00

I Front cover: Stratified ancient geological formation typical of John Day Ecological Province, Oregon. Back cover: Overview of Ecological Province, looking north- west across the Malheur Reservoir area into the extensive, light-colored ancient lake lacustrine landforms that typify Snake River Ecological Province, Oregon. Opposite: View of Mt. Thielsen over snow-covered pumice desert as seen from Crater Lake in Mazama Ecological Province, Oregon. All photos by E. William Anderson. The Ecological Provinces of Oregon A treatise on the basic ecological geography of the state

By E. William Anderson, Michael M. Borman, and William C. Krueger

Oregon Agricultural Experiment Station May 1998 This publication synthesizes over 40provinces for Oregon. This is a years of study by E. William (Bill) prime example of having the right Anderson and his co-workers. person in the right positions at the Oregon is extremely fortunate that right times and for the duration of Bill Anderson was the Chief of time necessary to develop a suffi- Party for the initial range surveys in cient understanding of these re- the late 1930s and that he remained sources to produce this document. in Oregon for the rest of his career. All of us working with natural Since his retirement, Bill has resources in Oregon owe Bill a continued to study Oregon's re- tremendous debt of gratitude. sources and to develop the concept WILLIAM C. KRUEGER and descriptions of ecological MICHAEL M. BORMAN

Authors E. WILLIAM ANDERSON retired in 1994 from the Renewable Natural 1974 as Oregon State Range Resources Foundation. Conservationist for USDA Soil MICHAEL M. BORMAN is Extension Conservation Service. He is a Rangeland Resources Specialist, certified range management con- Department of Rangeland Re- sultant and a charter member, life sources, . member, fellow, and past president He also has had experience as a (1962) of the Society for Range range consultant, as a range scientist Management, which awarded him for the Agricultural Research its highest honor, the Frederic G. Service, and as a range ecologist for Renner Award, in 1979. He also is the National Biological Service. a charter member, life member, and fellow of the Soil and Water Con- WILLIAM C. KRUEGER 1S Professor servation Society. His awards and and Head, Department of Rangeland honors include the Agricultural Hall Resources, Oregon State University. of Fame Award in 1986 from the He has 30 years of research experi- College of Agricultural Sciences, ence in ecology and range- Oregon StateUniversity,and the land restoration. SustainedAchievement Award in

Acknowledgments Over the years, the following Range conservationists: Fred people in the USDA Soil Conserva- Greenfield, Duane Town, Eugene tion Service made major contribu- Hickman, and David Franzen. tions to formulating the ecological Soil scientists: George Green, Elmer province concept by helping to Hill, Burrell Lovell, Joe Cahoon, characterize and delineate lines of Grant Lindsay, Eugene Dyksterhuis, demarcation between ecological and William Powers. provinces out on the land and by State administrators: Harold Tower, allowing this activity in Oregon. Tom Helseth, and A. J. Webber.

ii Ecological Provinces of Oregon Contents

Authors and Acknowledgements ...... ii Province Map ...... iv Introduction ...... 1 Prologue ...... 2 Definitions and Abstracts ...... 3 Province Descriptions Blue Mountain ...... 5 Cascade ...... 14 Coast ...... 21 Columbia Basin ...... 28 ...... 38 Humboldt ...... 47 John Day ...... 52 Klamath ...... 63 Mazama ...... 86 Owyhee ...... 94 ...... 98 Siskiyou ...... 100 Snake River ...... 109 The Dalles ...... 115 Willamette ...... 121 References ...... 130 Appendices and Supplements Figures ...... 69 Common-name Checklist of Plants ...... 133 Index of Tables ...... 138 Province Map...... inside back cover

Ecological Provinces of Oregon iii A S H I N OREGON G T

A

C A L I F 0 R N I A N E V A D A K. William Anderson . Michael M. Borman - William C. Krueger ECOLOGICAL PROVINCES OREGON Introduction

N ECOSYSTEM'S PROCESSES Monitoring efficiency, data interpreta- provinces in the characteristics of soils function on a variety of tion, and detection of trends in impor- and vegetation on north-facing slopes. Atemporal and spatial scales. tant ecological attributes can all be Demarcation between provinces in Planning and management likewise improved if monitoring is organized Oregon is quite distinct in some loca- must be on a relatedscale.For manage- based on ecological provinces. tions, as between the John Day and mentpurposes,it is important to under- Within Oregon, the ecological prov- Columbia Basin provinces along the stand the concepts of ecological sites inces described in this publication breaks of a large rocky plateau near and ecological provinces-areas within stratify the natural variation that exists Clarno (Fig. 1) and also between the which there is relative similarity in across watershed basins and political John Day and High Desert provinces resourcetype, quality,quantity, and boundaries such as counties, national north of Hampton (Fig. 2). At other associations.This publication describes forests, and Bureau of Land Manage- locations, the line of demarcation is Oregon's ecological provinces and lists ment districts. Although monitoring is broad and transitional, as in an area referencesfor furtherinformation. essential to detect trends toward or away near Kinzua where a mixture of An ecological site is a local combinationfrom management goals, it is often forested soils representing both the of certain soils, climate, topography, neglected due to budget constraints. John Day and Blue Mountain provinces and vegetation; the combination has forms a transition band 2 to 3 miles It is important to keep in mind that an management implications. wide. Another example is between the ecological province is not homogeneous. Mazama and High Desert provinces An ecological province, which is a For example, High Desert Province is where the pumice mantle, which subdivision of a region, has a distinc- characterized by large and small closed distinguishes Mazama from adjacent tive combination of geological features basins surrounded by extensive terraces provinces, gradually thins into the High and ecological sites. In an ecological with interspersed ridges, hilly uplands, Desert Province. The vegetational province, general regional differences isolated buttes, and block-faulted for- differences, and thus the provincial in vegetation complexes among eco- mations. The terrace and basin portion boundary, are not clear-cut but rather logical sites are related to basic differ- of the province is flat to gently sloping; occur within a belt of demarcation. ences in underlying geology, geomor- intermediate hills, buttes, and moun- phology, and climate on a relatively tains are steep to very steep. Ecological The descriptions of the 15 ecological broad scale that encompasses a number sites range from and low-lying terraces provinces in Oregon provide valuable of ecological sites. to subalpine mountain tops and from information including: location; a lake beds that are nearly always dry to general description of the province; For public and private land managers permanent and marshes. general soils description and soil series and technicians, the concept of ecologi- However, a unifying characteristic is identifications; climate information cal provinces is a valuable framework the dry, cold climate that significantly with a focus on temperatures, growing within which to consider potential influences growing conditions through seasons, and amounts and large-scale system responses to man- its impact on effective environment. distribution; descriptions of vegetation agement activities. The ecological- complexes and their relationships to provinces framework describes spatial The effective environment of a given soils and climatic variables; and a dis- homogeneity in ecosystems which site is produced by the interaction of all cussion of management implications. generally influences types, quality, and environmental factors there-including quantity of environmental resources. soil, aspect, slope, elevation, moisture, Each province also has a description of In managing water quality, for ex- and temperature-and supports a spe- the line or band of demarcation ample, it is important to separate cific combination of plant species. Eachbetween it and adjacent provinces so attainable water quality from that province has some individual character- that field workers can determine on the which is diminished by land use. istics or combinations that sufficiently ground when they are at a transition Quality attainable in one region may influence effective environment so that from one province to another. This is an not be attainable in another due to each produces or supports vegetational extremely valuable resource to help natural factors. Agency guidelines for composition and structure that is simi- field personnel look for and evaluate vegetation composition, distribution, lar within a province and different changes based on what should be ex- and cover should also be based on what among provinces. Vegetation on north- pected and to refine salient differences is attainable. These attributes will be facing slopes within a province will be and similarities between provinces. similar within ecological provinces and reasonably similar, but frequently there dissimilar among them. are important differences between

Introduction 1 Prologue

N JUNE 1949, THE USDA SOIL broadened in Oregon to include these Searching for reasons for these differ- Conservation Service (SCS), now other kinds of land, and the term ences helped formulate the concept that called the Natural Resources Con- "ecological site" was coined to better broadly homogeneous natural subdivi- servation Service, began the task of represent the actual situation. Official sions of Oregon existed and that they, identifying and describing the range SCS approval for this change was neverlike ecological sites, could be and sites in Oregon. requested. Instead, the concept of eco- should be identified, described, and logical site was allowed to quietly mapped. If the broad soil-plant The concept of "range site" was rela- materialize as a locally accepted version relationships were as outstandingly tively new at that time although Oregonof the principles incorporated in the consistent within each of these subdivi- SCS had been making range surveys term "range site" as it applied to range- sions and as different from one subdivi- since about 1939 in which units of the lands east of the . sion to another as they appeared to be landscape that were ecologically at that time, then it seemed reasonable different were mapped. The first of After years of studying and describing that any sound agricultural or resource- these surveys was of the Keating Soil ecological sites in , this oriented program must recognize these & Water Conservation District in Baker definition was formulated in the 1960s: natural subdivisions of the state. County, E. W. Anderson, Chief of Party.An ecological site is an area of land World War II interrupted development having a distinctive combination of Furthermore, these natural subdivisions of this kind of resource inventory on soils and climatic, topographic, and and the specific soil-plant relationships rangelands in the Pacific Northwest natural biotic (chiefly vegetation) fac- within them do not coincide with poli- mainly because most SCS range conser- tors that has management implications.'tical boundaries such as counties, vationists enlisted for military service. national forests, BLM districts, or pri- It also became apparent early in the vate ownerships. Thus, it seemed Assessing and mapping rangelands' project that data on ecological sites in imperative that educators and techni- ecological status, which was originally one segment of eastern Oregon differed cians in forestry, range, wildlife, called "range condition," also origi- significantly in several ways from data hydrology, agronomy, economics, and nated in the Pacific Northwest, circa on comparable sites in other segments soils and even some property owners 1937. These were significant changes of eastern Oregon. and managers needed to recognize and from the general kind of range survey understand these basic facts about the For example, the makeup of reasonably being conducted throughout the West in ecological patterns of the countryside.' relict native plant communities on undu- that early era. These involved mapping Consequently, as early as 1950 it lating topography in Gilliam County 18 vegetation types; e.g., grassland became an unofficial component of the differed markedly from a comparable type, sagebrush type, annual type, juni- site-identification project to identify, situation in Baker County, and they per type, and meadow type. The characterize, and delineate these broad both differed markedly from a compa- vegetation types represented then- natural subdivisions of Oregon. current stands of vegetation rather than rable situation in Harney County. Soil ecological sites. characteristics might be somewhat One of the confounding questions early similar from place to place yet differed in the process of characterizing and de- At an early stage, it became apparent significantly in certain important lineating these natural subdivisions of that the basic purpose of this Oregon aspects, especially at the soil-series eastern Oregon was what to call them. site-identification project necessitated level of soil classification. studying woodlands and forests as well At first, in 1949-50, they were called as rangelands, because of the interrela- In some cases, herbage production on "problem areas," and they certainly tionship of forage, wood products, and comparable sites also differed signifi- presented some problems. However, the soil conservation aspects involved in cantly from one segment of eastern term "problem areas" in Soil Conserva- comprehensive management of renew- Oregon to another, suggesting that this tion had been used previously in the able resources, which was a basic pro- was likely due to broad climatic 1930s by Dr. H. H. Bennett, founder of gram of SCS in Oregon at that time. A differences. Forested sites in the Blue the soil conservation movement, so we major factor in precipitating this Mountains produced essentially the decided "problem areas" was not approach was the view held by most same tree species as those in the appropriate for use in our Oregon ranchers that their "range" was the Ochoco Mountains or those on east situation. Instead we used "natural entire area on which their livestock slopes of the Cascade Mountains near range areas." However, this term even- grazed, be it sagebrush hills or forests. The Dalles, yet the understory plant tually did not fit the nature of the study Consequently, by the mid-1950s, the communities differed markedly from because it involved kinds of land in narrow concept of range site was one place to the other, as did the soils. addition to rangelands. Therefore, the

2 Prologue term was changed to "land resource ecological units in which soil was only The concept of ecological sites and areas" during the 1950s and was used one of several differentiating factors. natural subdivisions of Oregon has until about 1965 when SCS Soil been presented in a simple informa- Science Division published USDA After publication of Agricultural Hand- tional talk at many local meetings of Agricultural Handbook 296, "Land book 296, the natural subdivisions of conservation districts and agricultural Resource Regions and Major Land Oregon were renamed "resource prov- and livestock organizations in Oregon. Resource Areas of the ." inces" to avoid conflict and confusion. It was first published in 1956 in a The publication was revised in 198129 discussion of soil-plant relationships.' The meaning of "land resource area" in About 1980, the term was made more It was later published, in 1962, in a this SCS publication was basically precise by the change to "ecological discussion of the behavior of forage different from that of the original term province" with the following definition: yields3 and in 1986 in relation to plant in Oregon. The published term was a subdivision of a region having a indicators of effective environment predicated primarily on soils, whereas distinctive combination of geological within the various ecological provinces the original term was predicated on features and ecological sites. of Oregon.'

Definitions and Abstracts

Definitions tions range from about 1,200 feet at the 9,670 on . Elevations Ecologicalprovince A subdivision of northwest boundary to above 5,500 feet of basins and terraces in Oregon are a region having a distinctive combina- at the southern boundary. between 4,030 and about 4,500 feet. tion of geological features and ecologi- Coast ProvinceThe mountainous up- Humboldt ProvinceA segment of the cal sites. lands of the Coast Mountains and the northern portion of the of Ecological siteAn area of land having hills, valleys, tidelands, headlands, and North America. It is in southeastern a distinctive combination of soil, cli- beaches between the mountains and the Oregon. It is characterized by long, matic, topographic, and natural biotic ocean. It is characterized by very steep generally north-to-south mountain (chiefly vegetation) factors; the combi- dendritic drainages related to 20 rivers ranges and valleys with ancient lake nation has management implications. draining into the ocean. Elevations in terraces and fans lying along the foot- Oregon range from sea level to about slopes. Elevations in Oregon range Abstracts 4,000 feet on prominent mountains. from 4,025 at Alvord Desert to 8,545 feet on the . Blue Mountain ProvinceThe moun- Columbia Basin ProvinceThe basin tainous segment of northeast Oregon. It draining north into the John Day ProvinceThe rugged north- is characterized by extensive, very in north-. It is character- central area of Oregon. It is character- thick bedrock, groups of rugged ized by basaltic hilly uplands and a siz- ized by extensive, geologically eroded, mountains, steep canyons, and exten- able sandy basin west of the Hermiston steeply dissected hills of thick, ancient sive ridges and plateaus. Rugged moun-area that are dissected by six major sedimentary materials interspersed with tains consist of uplifted , basalt, drainages flowing into the Columbia buttes and plateaus capped with basalt and various metamorphosed shales, River. Elevations in Oregon range from or tuffaceous rock. Elevations range sandstones, limestones, greenstones, about 100 feet along the Columbia from about 1,000 feet in the northwest and tuffs. Elevations in Oregon range River to about 3,500 feet. corner to 7,360 feet at Fields Peak in from about 1,000 feet in the northeast the Ochoco Mountains. corner to 9,839 feet on Sacajawea Peak High Desert ProvinceThe most nor- in the Eagle Mountains. Elevations are them extent of the Great Basin of North Klamath ProvinceThe basaltic moun- mainly between 3,000 and 5,000 feet. America. It is in south-central Oregon. tainous part of south-central Oregon, It is characterized by numerous large characterized by large basins consisting Cascade ProvinceThe higher eleva- and small closed basins surrounded by of lakebeds surrounded by extensive tions and crest of the Cascade Moun- extensive terraces formed in ancient ancient lake terraces interspersed with tains. It is characterized by andesitic or lakes. Interspersed are low basaltic extensive basaltic terrain. Drainage is basaltic mountainous terrain with steep ridges, hilly uplands, isolated buttes, south, mainly through the Klamath Riv- dendritic drainage patterns, especially mountains, and block-faulted igneous er system. Elevations in Oregon range where associated with upper reaches of formations. Elevations in Oregon range from 4,050 feet at Malin to 8,405 feet at the Willamette River system. Eleva- from 4,030 feet at Harney Lake to northeast of Lakeview.

Definitions and Abstracts 3 Mazama ProvinceThe area covered east of the Pendleton Branch Agricul- 7,127 feeton Lookout Mountain in by a continuous mantle of aeolian tural Experiment Station in Umatilla eastern Baker County. deposits of pumice and other volcanic County. It is the only area in eastern materials spewed over the countryside Oregon suitable for long-term dryland The Dalles ProvinceThe lower when Mt. Mazama erupted explosively farming under an annual cropping eastern slopes and foothills along the about 6,500 years ago. Other volcanic rotation with no need to summer fallow north portion of the Cascade Moun- activity and eruptions, as well as glacialfor additional soil moisture. Elevations tains. It is the transition zone between actions, have created areas consisting in Oregon are mainly between 1,350 the hot, dry climate of eastern Oregon of basaltic, andesitic, rhyolitic, and tuf- and 2,000 feet. and the cool, moist climate of the faceous deposits and cinders and glacial Cascade Mountains. Elevations in till. Elevations range from 2,700 feet at Siskiyou ProvinceThe area in south- Oregon range from about 100 feet at the northwest boundary to 8,390 feet onwestern Oregon that is strongly influ- the Columbia River to 5,110 feet on Gearhart Mountain. Most of the prov- enced by the mild climate of northern Green Ridge near the Metolius River. ince lies between 4,000 and 5,000 feet . It is characterized by exten- Most of the province in Oregon lies elevation. sive mountainous areas of the Klamath between 2,000 and 4,500 feet elevation. and Siskiyou mountains and western The huge valley Owyhee ProvinceThe western foot- footslopes of the southern portion of Willamette Province hills and associated plains of the Owy- the Cascade Mountains. Elevations in lying between the Cascade and Coast Oregon. It is char- hee Mountains, which are in southwest-Oregon range from 925 feet at Grants mountain ranges in ern . It is characterized by exten- Pass to 7,533 feet at Mt. Ashland. acterized by flood plains, old valley fill, and ancient high terraces and sive, very rocky uplands sloping down relatively low residual hill lands which to the west and by numerous basalt-rim Snake River ProvinceThe Oregon include the foothills of both mountain canyons, fields, , a few portion of the huge Snake River basin ranges. Elevations in Oregon range ancient lake basins, and some moun- that extends across southern Idaho. It is from about 50 feet at the Columbia tainous areas. Elevations in Oregon characterized by extensive ancient River to about 2,000 feeton mountains. range from about 4,000 feet to 6,168 terraces which are geologically eroded feet on the Mahogany Mountains. Most and dissected to currently appear as Most of the province in Oregon lies below 1,700 feet. of the province lies between 4,000 and plateaus, basins, and low rolling and 5,000 feet elevation. prominent hills interspersed with basaltic mountainous terrain. Eleva- Palouse ProvinceThe gently sloping tions in Oregon range from 1,800 feet to rolling cultivated area lying north- at Copperfield on the Snake River to

4 Definitions and Abstracts Blue Mountain Ecological Province

Location The Wallowa Valley from Wallowa to Soils In Oregon, this province consti- Joseph and the Grand Ronde Valley Soils of the Blue Mountain Prov- tutes the mountainous northeastern from Union to LaGrande and Elgin are ince can be conveniently grouped segment of the state. It covers slightly used for irrigated agriculture and for according to the natural vegetation less than 6 million acres including all some dryland farming. South of Pilot produced: upland grasslands, upland of Wallowa County, major segments of Rock and east of Pendleton, some foot- shrub-grasslands, meadows, forested Union, Umatilla, Baker, Grant, and slopes of Blue Mountains are dryland areas, subalpine, and alpine. Morrow counties, and small segments farmed to produce mainly wheat and of Wheeler and Gilliam counties. The barley. Most of the province is tim- Upland soils that produce natural grass- old mill town of Kinzua in northwest- bered and natural grasslands (Fig. 4). lands (i.e., less than 10% natural shrub ern Wheeler County is in the western- cover) are quite uniform in characteris- Elevation within Blue Mountain Prov- most tip of Blue Mountain Province. tics throughout the province. They have ince in Oregon is mainly between 3,000 The province extends north into Wash- been formed primarily in silty aeolian and 5,000 feet. The lowest point is be- ingtonand east into Idaho. deposits that reportedly originated and low 1,000 feet where Oregon, Washing- were blown south during the era of ton, and Idaho join on the Snake River; receding glaciers farther north in Wash- Description i.e., at the extreme northeast corner of ington. Subsequent aeolian deposits of Blue Mountain Province in OregonOregon and the extreme southeast cor- volcanic ash during eruptions, such as is typified by groups of rugged moun- ner of Washington. Mazama's, influenced the parent mate- tains, steep canyons, and extensive The highest peaks in the Eagle Moun- rials in which these soils were formed. plateaus divided by dendritic-pattern tains are Sacajawea Peak at 9,839 feet, drainages (Fig. 3). Basalt is the major Matterhorn at 9,832 feet, and Aneroid Where these soils lie on plateaus and bedrock underlying mountains and Peak, Petes Peak, Twin Peaks, and north-facing slopes under climatic con- plateaus, which accounts for the typical Point Joseph which are all above 9,600 ditions associated with mountainous rimrock canyons. The most rugged feet. In the Elkhorn Mountains, Rock topography-usually about 3,500 to mountains in the province are the Eagle Creek Mountain is 9,106 feet, Elkhorn 4,000 feet elevation and receiving Mountains in the area where Wallowa, is 8,931 feet, Twin Peaks is 8,897 feet about 15 inches or more annual preci- Union, and Baker counties join; the and Mt. Ireland is 8,321 feet. In the pitation-they generally are moderately Elkhorn Mountains in western Baker Strawberry group, Strawberry Moun- deep to shallow, have very dark brown and northeastern Grant counties; and tain is 9,038 feet, Slide Mountain is to black fairly thick silt-loam-texture the Strawberry Mountain area in central8,521 feet, Canyon Mountain is 8,007 surface layers, and dark brown moder- Grant County. These mountains consist feet, Indian Creek Butte is 7,889 feet, ately fine to clayey subsoils over basalt of uplifted granitic, basaltic, and vari- and Pine Creek Mountain is 7,390 feet. bedrock. Grassland soils on north- ous metamorphosed shales, sandstones, (Elevations are from U.S. Forest facing slopes are normally deeper than limestones, greenstones, and tuffs.9 Service maps.) those on plateaus. This is probably due

Blue Mountain Ecological Province 5 to the snow-drift effect of prevailing biscuits are in the vicinity of Flora in the vicinity of Hot Lake in Grande southerly winds that have redistributed north-central Wallowa County; they are Ronde Valley, the soils are poorly aeolian deposits. Soils on south- and 5 feet high or more. Also in that vici- drained and affected by sodium; they west-facing slopes in canyons and nity are biscuits on which ponderosa are known as black alkali. This is mountainous terrain at these elevations pine grows. probably the only occurrence of sodic have darkbrownmedium-texture sur- soils in Blue Mountain Province. face layers and moderately fine-texture For an explanation of the origin of this subsoils. They are usually extremely particular land pattern, see the descrip- Soils of forested areasin Blue Moun- stony and fairly shallow over basalt tion of ColumbiaBasinEcological tain Province vary according to the type bedrock. Province in which biscuit scabland is a of forest. Stands of ponderosa pine with prominent, widespread phenomenon. an understory of bunchgrasses usually Upland soils that produce natural grow on plateaus, ridgetops, and south- shrub-grassland vegetation (i.e., 10% Soils on meadows vary from locality to facing slopes. These soils have loamy or more natural shrub cover) are mainlylocality because they are formed in surface layers and clayey subsoils over in two situations in Blue Mountain alluvium from adjacent watersheds and basalt bedrock. They are usually shal- Province. The most common is locally are directly related to the degree and low, stony, susceptible to erosion, and, called scabland. These soils, which are longevity of wetness, which varies when severely eroded, they frost heave. on plateaus and ridgetops, are very from sometimes dry to always wet. This forms a stone pavement on the shallow and very stony. They have thin surface which seriously hinders natural loamy surface layers and clayey sub- Soils along major streams usually have revegetation and increases water loss soils and are usually less than 10 inches medium- or loamy-texture surface from the watershed through runoff. deep to basalt bedrock. Normally, they layers and gravelly substrata. Gravelly frost heave severely and are very sus- surface layers and gravel bars are com- Several combinations of soils, mois- ceptible to sheet erosion. mon. Woody vegetation can flourish on ture, aspect, and slope are related to these kinds of meadows partly because mixed ponderosa pine-Douglas-fir The other upland soils that produce water flowing through the soil profile isstands that have an understory of pine- natural shrub-grassland vegetation are aerated. In contrast, meadow soils in grass, elk sedge, and associated species. on very steep north-facing areas within swales and along minor meandering In areas receiving about 26 to 40 the elevation range of natural grass- waterways usually have medium-texture inches precipitation on shallow-soil lands. These areas represent snowdrift surface layers and clayey substrata. south exposures. These soils have pockets that receive moisture beyond These soils seldom produce native loamy surface layers and clayey that from normal precipitation. The shrubby species, except for certain subsoils and usually are stony. north-facing aspect also increases species of willow, because water in the effectiveness of the moisture received. soil is ponded and not aerated. In areas receiving about 16 to 26 These soils are moderately deep to very inches precipitation on moderately deep and usually not stony. They have Some soils on mountain meadows in deep to deep soils that are nearly thick black silty surface layers and Blue Mountain Province have promi- level or slope slightly north or south. brown silty to clayey subsoils. Out- nent, sometimes thick layers of volcan- These soils have loamy or ashy crops of bedrock may exist. ic ash in the profile that likely washed surface layers and moderately fine to off surrounding watersheds. These ashy clayey subsoils. They may be stony. Throughout the natural grasslands of soils erode like "sugar" when disturbed Blue Mountain Province, grassland or exposed and form vertical, some- On steep, north-facing slopes of soils on some plateaus and ridges com- times deep channels which are very drainages below the main forested monly occur in a unique land pattern difficult to rehabilitate because of the zone. These soils generally are mod- locally called biscuit scabland. This erosiveness of the ash layers. erately deep and stony with loamy pattern consists of small mounds of or ashy surface layers and loamy to grassland soils 5 to 20 feet or more in Soils of dry meadows generally have moderately fine-texture subsoils. diameter and usually about 20 to 36 medium-texture surface layers and inches deep over basalt bedrock. Each clayey subsoils. These soils occur as Soils of the grand fir-Douglas-fir and mound, or biscuit, is surrounded by small basins within the forested area, as the grand fir-alpine fir forests generally very shallow, very stony shrub- areas around the perimeters of wet are moderately deep to very deep with grassland soils over basalt bedrock, meadows, and as shoestring bottoms thick ashy upper layers and loamy to which are locally called scabland. along intermittent streams.They are clayey subsoils. Thesesoils lie on Hence the name, biscuit scabland. moderately deep and usually not stony. moderately steep to steep north-facing slopes and, above about 6,000 feet The biscuits vary in shape, usually Soils in prominent valleys generally arewhere precipitation exceeds about 40 round but sometimes oblong. They a mixture of alluvium and low-terrace inches, the soils are on gently sloping occupy from about 5 to 30% of the area materials; the mixture varies from to rolling topography. Soils of the in which they occur. Some spectacular location to location within a valley. In subalpine fir-whitebark pine and of

6 Blue Mountain Ecological Province Table 1. Climatic Data for Blue Mountain Ecological Province, Oregon." Station and Precipitation Average maximum and minimum length of record Elevation Annual Nov.-March April-July temperatures (°F) (years) (feet) (inches) (%) (%) January April-July Baker County Halfway 10 2,675 20.2 63 26 31.6-8.6 75.2-39.2 Sparta 34 4,150 20.8 63 41 33.3-16.2 69.5-40.5 Grant County 7 4,939 27.1 61 26 22.6* 48.0* Olive Lake 5 5,937 32.8 60 27 31.5-9.2 58.1-31.7 Umatilla County Meacham 29 4,050 34.7 62 24 32.0-17.7 63.2-39.9 Ukiah 18 3,340 18.2 52 32 34.0-11.9 69.9-34.6 Union County Cove 21 3,000 22.5 47 37 36.1-20.8 70.5-42.2 Elgin 10 2,666 22.3 57 26 35.8-18.9 73.4-40.2 LaGrande 21 2,786 20.1 54 31 38.0-21.8 73.3-45.0 Starkey 7 3,400 18.0 44 37 36.7-14.2 68.8-34.7 Union 22 2,765 12.9 43 40 35.8-22.4 72.0-41.6 Wallowa County Enterprise 20 3,700 13.3 38 42 33.0-12.5 70.2-36.5 Joseph 20 4,175 16.2 39 42 32.1-12.9 66.9-39.1 Wallowa 18 2,950 17.4 49 33 33.8-15.0 73.2-38.4 County Averages Baker 20.5 63 34 32.5-12.4 72.4-39.9 Grant 30.0 61 27 Umatilla 26.5 57 28 33.0-14.8 66.6-37.3 Union 19.2 49 34 36.5-19.6 71.6-40.7 Wallowa 15.6 42 39 33.0-13.5 70.1-38.0

Province Average 22.4 54 32 33.8-15.1 70.2-38.0 No official weather stations in Blue Mountain Province in Gilliam, Morrow, or Wheeler counties. * average

alpine nonforested areas generally are annual total. Average January maxi- Vegetation very gravelly, stony, or rocky and very mum and minimum temperatures are According to the 1936 State of shallow to moderately deep. In the Blue33.8 and 15.1°F, respectively. Average Oregon Forest Type Map,54 which pre- Mountain Province they are mainly at April through July maximum and mini- dates extensive logging, about a third about 7,000 feet elevation. Essentially, mum temperatures are 70.2 and 38°F, of all Blue Mountain Province at that these soils are primarily raw materials respectively. Precipitation and tempera- time was primarily natural grasslands; from the wide variety of parent ture data vary by locality (Table 1). about two-thirds was forested. materials forming the mountains. A recent precipitation map53 shows Natural grasslands (i.e., less than 10% about 115 inches annual precipitation innatural shrub cover) are sporadic Climate the Eagle Mountains south of Enter- throughout lower elevations of the Blue Based on data from 14 official prise, over 45 inches in the Elkhorn Mountain Province. They range in size weather stations, representing a cross- Mountains west of Baker City, and overfrom small openings and long narrow section of the province, average annual 35 inches in the Strawberry Mountain ridgetops in forested areas to extensive precipitation for the province is about group southeast of John Day. open grasslands. They extend along the 22.4 inches. About 32% of annual pre- entire northern province boundary from cipitation falls during April through The most and part of Blue Mountain near Pilot Rock west to near Kinzua; in July, the herbaceous native-plant Province is the lower reaches of the Im-the vicinity of Ukiah, Starkey, La- growing season. November through naha and Snake River canyons; it also Grande, and Elgin; and in central and March precipitation is about 54% of theis the lowest elevation in the province. northern Wallowa County from

Blue Mountain Ecological Province 7 Wallowa-Enterprise-Joseph east and unpalatable when mature. How the spe- Three major kinds of natural shrub- north past Findley Buttes and Zumwalt, cies got there in the first place could be grassland (i.e., 10% or more natural including the breaks of the Snake, the basis for a campfire storytelling shrub cover) are in Blue Mountain Imnaha, and Grande Ronde canyons. session: Nez Perce Indians returning Province. The most common is the site from buffalo hunts in Montana? Was locally called scabland. Vegetation on The grasslands near Findley Buttes are explorer Fremont's expedition once lostthis very shallow, very stony site is the highest native-forage-producing in the Imnaha canyon? dominated by Sandberg bluegrass. upland sites in eastern Oregon when in Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, vigorous, high-ecological status. They Blue Mountain Province natural grass- and a few other perennial grass species probably are a model of what has been land sites are characterized by an abun- occur sparsely between the surface called the Palouse Prairie (Fig. 5). dance and wide variety of perennial stones. Perennial forbs, such as Hooker forb species which make up 10 to 15% balsamroot, biscuitroot, bighead clover, Essentially the same combination of of natural plant communities on most bitterroot, onion, and snow buckwheat plant communities and soil series oc- sites. Several low shrubs, such as low are prominent. Stiff sagebrush is the curs throughout these widely separated Oregon-grape, wax currant, rose, com- dominant shrub; however, an occasional grasslands, due to the provincewide mon snowberry, green and gray rabbit- rose or common snowberry may grow. uniformity of soil parent materials and brushes, and herbaceous sage com- climatic conditions under which these monly grow in trace amounts in these An entirely different kind of natural soils and plant communities formed. natural grasslands. shrub-grassland occurs on very steep north-facing areas within the elevation On these natural grassland ecological One distinctive feature of Blue Moun- range of natural grasslands. These areas sites, basic perennial grasses are Idaho tain Province is the overall scarcity of represent snowdrift pockets which fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, Sand- big sagebrush and other tall shrubs that receive moisture beyond normal preci- berg bluegrass, an d prairie junegrass. dominate much rangeland in Oregon. pitation. Vegetation is dominated by Big bluegrass, pinegrass, elk sedge, andEven on grasslands in deteriorated eco- shrubs such as common snowberry, timothy grow on more moist upland logical status, shrubs do not become rose, chokecherry, hawthorn, mock- sites. Dry meadows have a wide variety prominent in Blue Mountain Province. orange, and ninebark. An occasional of species including Idaho fescue, sod Rather, deteriorated grasslands are ponderosa pine or Douglas-fir may be bluegrasses, slender wheatgrass, thin characterized by a dominance of peren- seen. The understory is dominated by bentgrass, California oatgrass, Colum- nial forbs, such as yarrow, lupine, gum- Idaho fescue along with such grasses as bia needlegrass, and threadleaf sedge. weed, and biscuitroot and annual forbs timothy, oniongrass, Kentucky blue- Wet meadows are typified by tufted and grasses. However, at least four grass, Columbia needlegrass, pinegrass, hairgrass, redtop, slender wheatgrass, species of the genus Artemisiagrow in mountain brome, bluebunch wheat- sod bluegrasses, baltic rush, Nebraska the province: big and stiff sagebrushes, grass, and many perennial forb species. sedge, and red fescue. tarragon, and lobed wormwood. Bottomlands along major streams, Uniquely, in the lower reaches of the Along the line of demarcation between where soils are usually gravelly, Snake and Imnaha canyons, the most Blue Mountain and John Day prov- produce woody vegetation along with and portion of this province, there are inces, both big sagebrush and western meadow vegetation. Water flowing small areas containing Fendler three- juniper, strongly characteristic of John through the gravelly soils is aerated, awn. This is probably the only location Day Province, grow within the band or and woody species such as cotton- in Oregon where it grows. Its major area where the two provinces join. This woods, some willow species, alder, range is in the Great Plains. Oldtimer band of integrated vegetation is likely birch, and ponderosa pine are capable local ranchers called it "democrat" natural. However, it is also likely that of flourishing in spite of seasonal or grass and claimed it did not show up characteristic John Day Province vege- periodic high-water tables or overflow. until Franklin D. Roosevelt and the tation such as sagebrush and juniper has Democrats came into political power in expanded into Blue Mountain Province The understory vegetation varies the 1930s. Peck's 1961 manual of due to severe grazing and timber har- widely according to the frequency and higher plants of Oregon23 cites it as vesting which degraded the vigor of duration of soil water; the plant being in these canyons. original Blue Mountain plant communi-communities range from dry meadow ties, thereby allowing encroachment of to wet meadow species, usually It is possible that ranchers, having John Day woody species. occurring in patches. wintered livestock in the canyons for years, first noticed this grass when the Expansion of Blue Mountain vegetationConiferous forest occupies most of severe drought of the 1930s diminished south into John Day Province is unlikelyBlue Mountain Province. These forests other forage species; coupled with because the climate becomes abruptly represent five generalized plant intense winter grazing, this made the more and on the John Day side of the communities (with transition from previously unnoticed threeawn appear line. Ecological invasion more often is warm to cool to cold forest), each with prominent because it is apparently from and to more moist situations. management implications.

8 Blue Mountain Ecological Province Table 2. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends resemble each other: pine trees, shrubs, in Blue Mountain Ecological Province, Oregon. grasses, and forbs. However, numerous Station and samples of this ecological site in both length of record Elevation Average date Average date provinces reveal significant differences (years) (feet) growth begins* growth ends* in the species that constitute the plant Baker County community of the site. Halfway 10 2,675 March 24 August 21 Sparta 34 4,150 April 1 September 12 In Blue Mountain Province, the follow- ing species regularly grow but are Grant County rarely, if ever, found on this site in John Granite 7 4,939 April 26 Does not occur Day Province: Kentucky bluegrass, Olive Lake 5 5,937 May 7 Does not occur onespike oatgrass, threadleaf sedge, Umatilla County huckleberry, mockorange, and herba- Meacham 29 4,050 April? Does not occur ceous sage. On the other hand, the Ukiah 18 3,340 April 1 August 17 following species regularly grow on Union County this site in John Day Province but are Cove 21 3,000 March 27 September 21 rarely, if ever, found on this site in Blue Elgin 10 2,666 March 15 August 18 Mountain Province: Wheeler bluegrass, LaGrande 21 2,786 March 15 August 13 Ross sedge, Thurber needlegrass, Starkey 7 3,400 April 1 August 15 mountain snowberry, green rabbitbrush, Union 22 2,765 March 15 July 2 curlleaf mountain-mahogany, big sage- Wallowa County brush, and western juniper. Obviously, Enterprise 20 3,700 April 1 July 10 these differences are not readily Joseph 20 4,175 April 4 July 31 apparent within the belt of demarcation Wallowa 18 2,950 March 24 August 4 between provinces but are apparent in provincewide data. No official weather stations in Gilliam, Morrow, or Wheeler counties in Blue Mountain Province, Oregon. Even greater differences occur on the * The average date vegetation growth begins on native perennial bunchgrasses is ponderosa pine-sedge ecological site in approximately the date the average daily temperatures reach 39 to 40°F. Average date each of the provinces. The following vegetation growth ends is considered to be when available soil moisture is depleted. species regularly grow in Blue Moun- Interpretations are based on data in Johnsgard.17 tain Province but rarely, if ever, are found on this site in John Day Prov- ince: slender wheatgrass, timber oat- 1. Ponderosa pine with understory shrubs, and much grand fir and grass, western fescue, Columbia dominated by Idaho fescue, blue- Douglas-fir reproduction. needlegrass, threadleaf sedge, blue bunch wheatgrass, many forb 5. Subalpine fir, larch, lodgepole pine, wildrye, slender hairgrass, deerbrush, species, and shrub species with pine and Engelmann spruce with a sparse elderberry, spirea, ninebark, huckle- reproduction. A warm forest. understory of shade-tolerant forbs berry, serviceberry, syringa, dogbane, 2. Ponderosa pine with understory and shrubs. A cold forest. chokecherry, bitter cherry, oceanspray, dominated by pinegrass, elk sedge, bearberry, and herbaceous sage. Subalpine areas contain a variety of Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, plant communities that include species The following species regularly grow many forb species, and many shrub such as whitebark pine; subalpine fir; on this site in John Day Province but species with pine reproduction. elk, Ross, and Hood sedges; green and rarely, if ever, on this site in Blue 3. Mixed ponderosa pine, Douglas-fir, Idaho fescues; yarrow; fleeceflower; Mountain Province: basin wildrye, some grand fir, and some larch with and mountain big sagebrush. These are Wheeler bluegrass, mountain snow- an understory consisting of pine- not coniferous forests. Rather, they are berry, curlleaf mountain-mahogany, grass, elk sedge, Idaho fescue, other patchy patterns of various plant com- green rabbitbrush, big sagebrush, and shade-tolerant grass and forb species, munities (Fig. 7). western juniper. and many shrub species with pine The different kinds of soil that help Generally, forested-site plant communi- and Douglas-fir reproduction. A cool differentiate Blue Mountain Province ties in Blue Mountain Province include forest (Fig. 6). from John Day Province are supported more species than those in John Day 4. Mixed grand fir, Douglas-fir, larch, by significant differences in the site- Province. This is especially noticeable lodgepole pine, and Engelmann specific plant communities. For ex- in the shrub component. The reason spruce with sparse understory of ample, the ponderosa pine-bunchgrass might be related to the soils and climate shade-tolerant grass and forb species ecological site is in both provinces and, of Blue Mountain Province compared mainly in openings, shade-tolerant based on casual observation, the sites to those of John Day Province.

Blue Mountain Ecological Province 9 A study of the geographic distribution Wilderness, and most of the Umatilla River Province, are fairly apparent of major plant species within Oregon, Indian Reservation are in Blue Moun- around the north and west sides of based on their occurrence within tain Province. Collectively, this is a North Powder Valley where they butt specific ecological provinces and on huge set-aside area requiring stringent into the basaltic mountainous uplands specific ecological sites, would be a integrated resource management. to the west, which typify Blue Moun- worthwhile contribution to coming tain Province. West of Baker City is an generations of resource scientists and Blue Mountain Province essentially is apparent geological uplift that abruptly managers who are increasingly requiredthe entire source of water upon which elevates the line between terraces and to set goals and objectives for various all life in northeast Oregon-and mountainous uplands to about 5,000 ecological situations. farther-depends. It holds a myriad of feet elevation. subwatersheds that capture, store, and release water into numerous drainages. The demarcation line continues south Management Implications This fact must be given prime consider-from that point west of Baker City at about 5,000 feet elevation and then Blue Mountain Province includes ation in all management strategies, west along the north side of Sumpter irrigated agriculture mainly in the small or large. Valley to Sumpter and south along the vicinity of LaGrande, Elgin, and Enter- Resource issues, problems, opportuni- west side of Sumpter Valley. Sumpter is prise which produces specialized crops, ties, and options usually involve multi- at the edge of Snake River Province. such as seed potatoes, turfgrass seed, ple ownerships, resources, and resource grains, and animal forages. There is a uses within Blue Mountain Province as From Sumpter Valley, the line contin- little dryland farming for grain, and well as in adjacent provinces. The ues southwest at about 5,000 feet eleva- some irrigated areas, between Pilot result of what happens in Blue Moun- tion around the north side of Whitney Rock and Cayuse on the Umatilla River. tain watersheds is far-reaching. Valley in upper North Fork Burnt River. Some previously dryfarmed areas were About 5 miles northwest of Whitney on put into perennial cover under the Con- Camp Creek, the line of demarcation servation Reserve Program of the 1980s. Province Demarcation abruptly drops back to about 4,000 feet elevation where it continues around the Most grasslands in Blue Mountain Blue Mountain-Snake River west side of Whitney Valley and south Province are privately owned, but Demarcation along the North Fork, up the Middle grazing on much of these lands is The line of demarcation between Fork, then south and up the South Fork closely interrelated with grazing on Blue Mountain and Snake River prov- Burnt River southwest of Unity. public lands. Public forested lands inces begins in the Snake River canyon provide a high proportion of summer at Copperfield on the Oxbow where Some segments of the line described grazing for livestock, elk, and deer, and Snake River exits the Snake River above have stands of coniferous trees, provide summer habitat for much of theProvince and enters the Blue Mountain mainly ponderosa pine, on both sides, province's wild mammals. In contrast, Province in the upper Hells Canyon. i.e., in both provinces. However, the winter ranges for livestock and most From that point, the line runs southwest conifer stands in Snake River Province wildlife are lower elevation private up the ridge between Pine Creek and are growing on deep soils related to lands or BLM public lands. Snake River. All drainage into Pine ancient Snake River terraces; tree stands in Blue Mountain Province are growing The ashy Tolo soil series is probably Valley and Pine Creek is considered to on primarily aeolian soils overlying the most productive forest soil in east- be in Blue Mountain Province; how- basalt formations which typifies the ern Oregon, and the Waha and Wahala ever, the nearby deep Snake River can- Blue Mountain Province. Based solely series are probably the most productive yon makes this line a matter of judg- on the presence of pines, this line of upland range soils in eastern Oregon. ment based mainly on native plant communities and soils. From the divide demarcation may seem insignificant. A very large part of the province is on Highway 86 between However, differences in growth indices rangeland and forested. A high propor- and Pine Valley, the line runs westerly of pine might prove significant and tion of forested land is publicly owned at about 4,000 feet elevation along the should be compared. Based on the total and managed under the Wallowa- upper edge of the ancient terraces south plant community-understory vegeta- Whitman, Umatilla, and Malheur of Sparta, in Blue Mountain Province. tion and associated trees-this major national forests. A small proportion of soils line is definitely significant from BLM-administered public land lies The line crosses into Union County eastan ecological standpoint. along the eastern fringe of the province.of Pondosa at about 4,000 feet eleva- tion and continues northwesterly In the head of South Fork Burnt River The North Fork John Day Wilderness, through Telocaset and around the north about 8 miles southwest of Unity at Hells Canyon National Recreation and west edges of North Powder Valley, about 4,500 feet elevation, the line of Area, Hells Canyon Wilderness, Eagle then south at about 4,000 feet elevation demarcation between Blue Mountain Cap Wilderness, Strawberry Mountain to just west of Baker City. The ancient and Snake River provinces continues Wilderness, most of Monument Rock lake terraces, which typify the Snake (continued on page 12)

10 Blue Mountain Ecological Province Table 3. Major Ecological Sites in Blue Mountain Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climaxtype & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Natural grassland Droughty rolling hills Moist bottom (less than 10% Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Sandberg Basin wildrye canopy cover bluegrass Dry meadow of shrubs) Rolling hills a Idaho fescue, sod bluegrasses Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg Wet meadow bluegrass Tufted hairgrass, redtop, sod bluegrasses Moist rolling hills Idaho fescue/low shrubs Droughty south exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass, Idaho fescue Steep south exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass, Idaho fescue Droughty north exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Sandberg bluegrass North exposure Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass Steep north exposure Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass/low shrubs Alpine grasslandb Green fescue, Idaho fescue, needlegrass, elk sedge

Shrub-grassland Scabland a (10% or more Sandberg bluegrass, bluebunch wheatgrass/stiff canopy cover sagebrush of shrubs) Clayey terrace Idaho fescue/stiff sagebrush Shrubby north exposure Tall shrubs/Idaho fescue/forbs Alpine sagebrushb Mountain big sagebrush/elk sedge Well-drained bottom Mixed coniferous- Dry-wet meadows/shrubs/aspen, deciduous tree cottonwood, ponderosa pine (5% or more canopy cover of trees)

Coniferous tree Pine-bunchgrass (5% or more Ponderosa pine/Idaho fescue, bluebunch canopy cover wheatgrass of trees) Pine-pinegrass Ponderosa pine/pinegrass, Idaho fescue Lodgepole pine-pinegrass Lodgepole pine/pinegrass, elk sedge Pine-Douglas-fir-pinegrass Ponderosa pine, Douglas-fir/pinegrass, elk sedge Douglas-fir-ponderosa pine forest Douglas-fir, ponderosa pine/shade plants Grand fir-Douglas-fir forest Grand fir, Douglas-fir/twinflower, shade plants Subalpine fir forest Subalpine fir, larch, spruce/shade plants Alpine open woodlandb Subalpine fir, whitebark pine/shrubs/sedge a Biscuit scabland is a mapping unit that is a complex of two ecological sites, rolling hills (the biscuits) and scabland,in which the biscuits occupy about 5% or more of the area in the unit. If biscuits occupy less than 5%, the unit should be mapped asscabland. b Alpine was not studied sufficiently to identify specific ecological sites.

Blue Mountain Ecological Province > south and rises up to the vicinity of Fork. It is at this point above Bates that From the oxbow of the North Fork Table Rock at 7,873 feet elevation. This the Blue Mountain Province is only John Day River where the line of appears to be caused by a huge geo- about 5 miles wide, from John Day demarcation crosses, the line follows logic uplift, the eastern edge of which Province on the west to Snake River the river east upstream to about a half appears to be the Table Rock-Bullrun Province on the east. This narrow area mile west of the confluence of Rock-Lone Rock escarpment of the of Blue Mountain Province straddles Deerhorn Creek with North Fork. uplifted plateau. The very rough coun- the divide between Middle Fork John try to the east of this uplift lies in SnakeDay River and the West Fork and At this point, the line rises north out of River Province. Southwest of Lone Middle Fork Burnt River. the John Day canyon along the ridge Rock, the line of demarcation returns to west of Deerhorn Creek to about 4,000 about 5,000 feet elevation where it The demarcation line runs northwest- to 4,500 feet elevation. From there it stays as it continues south and around erly from Bates at about 4,500 feet meanders westerly in and out of tribu- the upper North Fork . elevation in the upper slopes of Middle tary canyons as it follows the major Fork John Day River drainage. The old upper-level rimrocks at the south edge Near where Crane Creek joins North mining town of Susanville is in John of the plateau. Plateau areas north of Fork Malheur River, the Blue MountainDay Province. this line are in Blue Mountain Prov- Province line goes west and around the ince; the canyon slopes of North Fork south side of Crane Prairie at about From Susanville, the line continues and tributaries below about 4,000 feet 5,000 feet elevation. It is near the junc- north at about 4,500 feet elevation, elevation are in John Day Province. tion of Crane Creek and North Fork about the level at which truncated or Malheur River that the Blue Mountain, exposed tuffaceous deposits form steep Placing the line of demarcation up the Snake River, and John Day provinces slopes or escarpments. These tuffa- ridge west of Deerhorn Creek was a join. ceous deposits and underlying clayey judgment call. It was deemed that the materials typify the John Day Province. Deerhorn and Camas creeks' drainages resemble the upstream Blue Mountain Blue Mountain-John Day From just west of Putney Mountain, in Province soils and vegetation more Demarcation Blue Mountain Province, the line con- than they do the downstream John Day From this junction, the line of de- tinues west and crosses Highway 395 Province soils and vegetation. marcation between Blue Mountain and near Meadow Brook Summit south of John Day provinces continues north- Dale at about 4,000 feet elevation. Buckaroo Flat, Thompson Flat, Potato westerly from south of Crane Prairie in From there the line meanders generally Hill, Grassy Butte, and other such southeastern Grant County at about northwest at about 4,000 feet elevation plateau points above about 4,000 feet 5,500 feet elevation, which places it then pitches abruptly down a ridgetop elevation that jut out into the John Day between Summit Prairie, in Blue to cross the North Fork John Day River River drainage are in Blue Mountain Mountain Province, and Logan Valley at the first oxbow that changes the Province. which is in John Day Province. river's flow from west to south, about There is evidence that this junction 18 miles downriver from Dale Bridge. The line follows the rims southwest of actually may be a belt, rather than a High Lake around the south slopes of From west of Putney Mountain to the line, which is common where ecologi- Strawberry Mountain, Indian Creek point where the line of demarcation cal provinces or ecological sites join. Butte, and Pine Creek Mountain at crosses the North Fork John Day River, For example, at Thompson Flat at the about 5,500 feet elevation, and then all watersheds draining north into the south end of Potamus Ridge is an area west and north along the western slopesNorth Fork are in Blue Mountain Prov- of biscuit scabland (patterned ground) of Canyon Mountain. Along the north- ince. These include Desolation Creek, in which the soil of a biscuit was 0 to 6 facing slopes of Canyon Mountain, Meadow Brook Creek, and the steep inches silt loam, 6 to 10 inches silty Baldy Mountain, and Strawberry Moun-north-facing timbered slopes along the clay loam (these are typical surface soil tain (all in Blue Mountain Province), North Fork. textures in Blue Mountain Province), the line falls at about 4,500 to 5,000 10 to 20 inches silty clay, and 20 to 30 feet or lower, based on the elevation at Soils in these watersheds are medium- inches or more clay (these are typical which volcanic ash is prominent in texture. Usually they have ashy surface subsoil characteristics in John Day soils on these north-facing slopes. The layers formed by aeolian deposits of Province). In this biscuit scabland site, volcanic ash soils typify Blue Mountainvolcanic ash that accumulated on the the interspersed scabland soil is very Province. north-facing slopes like snowdrifts. shallow and very stony with abundant Underlying materials are generally surface basaltic stones, which is typical The line crosses the Middle Fork John basaltic. Ashy surface soils and basaltic for scabland in both Blue Mountain and Day River about 6 miles upstream from underlying materials typify much of the John Day provinces. Bates, at about 4,500 feet elevation. Blue Mountain Province, especially in Bates is in John Day Province as is the timbered areas, and the timber exists Geologists have reported that the Blue entire downstream reach of the Middle because of these soils, not vice versa. Mountains of Oregon were at one time

12 Blue Mountain Ecological Province the north shore of an ancient sea. If so, which surrounds Lonerock and covers because of associated storm patterns, clay deposits such as at Thompson Flat, about 7,500 acres in Gilliam County. cooler temperatures, and snowpack. at about 4,000 feet elevation, are likely associated with ancient lake terraces. The line of demarcation between Blue The demarcation line crosses from Mountain and Columbia Basin prov- southeastern Gilliam County to south- It is interesting to note, as supporting inces in southeastern Gilliam and ern Morrow County about 3 miles north evidence, that the ancient lakeshore southwestern Morrow counties is about of Lonerock at about 3,500 feet ele- terraces signifying where Snake River 3,500 feet elevation. This elevation vation. It crosses Highway 207 about Province joins Blue Mountain Province approximates major soil lines that are 1 mile south of Hardman and meanders in Baker County are very visible at the basis for differentiating between northeast to just south of Lena on the 4,000 feet elevation near Keating and Blue Mountain and Columbia Basin South Fork Butter Creek, where the Richland. The continuity of the 4,000 provinces .71,11 Hughes ranch is headquartered. feet elevation level, coupled with evi- dence of ancient lakebed terraces, On the Columbia Basin (north) side of From the top of Franklin Hill, it runs obviously has great significance from this line, the major soil series are pre- east across North Fork Butter Creek an ecological province perspective. dominantly Condon, Morrow, and and crosses Highway 395 about 8 miles Lickskillet which have thin gray-brown south of Nye Junction. From this point, Kinzua is in westernmost Blue Moun- to brown silt loam surface layers and the line continues northeast along tain Province. South and west of brown silt loam or silty clay loam Owens Creek and lower Birch Creek Kinzua the line of demarcation betweensubsoils over basalt bedrock. and declines to about 2,000 feet eleva- Blue Mountain and John Day provinces tion south of Pilot Rock. From there, is about 4,000 feet elevation. On the Blue Mountain (south) side of the line goes northeast at about 2,000 this line, the major soil series include feet elevation along the footslopes of This area has a mixture of forested soils Waha, Wahala, and Gwin, which have upland foothills to Cayuse on the that typify the Blue Mountain Province thick, very dark brown to black silt Umatilla River, at about 1,500 feet and other forested soils that typify John loam or silty clay loam surface layers elevation .71,11 Day Province. This pattern of soils and dark brown silty clay loam or clay creates a belt of demarcation 2 to 3 subsoils over basalt bedrock. Obvi- miles wide. Consequently, a mapped ously, these soil differences are not Blue Mountain -Palouse line, such as the 4,000 feet elevation, is abrupt in the landscape but occur in a Demarcation judgmental yet consistent with the line relatively narrow belt. Just on top of the hill north of of demarcation southeast of Kinzua. Cayuse, the Blue Mountain, Columbia The major difference in these soils is The significance of these major soil Basin, and Palouse provinces join. that those typifying Blue Mountain differences, from an ecological prov- From that point, the line of demarcation Province have medium- or moderately ince perspective, is that the Blue Moun-between Blue Mountain and Palouse fine-texture profiles and are usually tain Province soils with their darker provinces runs northwest to Weston at atop basalt bedrock; soils typifying color, thicker surface layers, and finer about 2,000 feet elevation. It continues John Day Province have clayey or clay texture reflect, among other things, around the east side of the valley at subsoils and are atop ancient fine- more precipitation and a colder climate Milton-Freewater and north into texture sediments or tuffaceous than in the Columbia Basin. As a result, Washington at about 2,000 feet eleva- deposits. grasslands in Columbia Basin Province tion. The latter part of this line is based (with its more and climate) are domi- on the soil line separating Athena silt nated by bluebunch wheatgrass with loam and the high-rainfall phase of Blue Mountain-Columbia Basin some Idaho fescue in the stand; on the Demarcation Walla Walla silt loam soil series, which Blue Mountain side of the line, Idaho typify the Palouse Province in Oregon, About 4 miles northwest of fescue strongly dominates the composi- from the stony foothill soils of Blue Kinzua, the Blue Mountain, John Day tion with some bluebunch wheatgrass Mountain Province.75 and Columbia Basin provinces join in the stand. There are several other near the old Hoover School at about significant differences between these 4,000 feet elevation. From that point two generalized plant communities. north and east, the line of demarcation is between Blue Mountain and Colum- Note that the line of demarcation bia Basin provinces at about 3,500 feet between Blue Mountain and Columbia elevation, within natural grasslands. Basin provinces lies along the north- About 22,000 acres in the Lonerock and northwest-facing foothill slopes of vicinity of southeastern Gilliam County the Blue Mountains. This northerly lie in Blue Mountain Province. Within aspect likely is another ecological this segment of Blue Mountain Prov- factor that helps explain soil and plant ince is an island of John Day Province differences on the line of demarcation

Blue Mountain Ecological Province 13 Cascade Ecological Province

Location elevations in the province are along the tions when transecting from arid, warm Cascade Ecological Province of western boundary at about 1,200 feet forest to moist, cold forest. Changes in Oregon encompasses high elevations of elevation on north-facing slopes of other species-woody and herbaceous the Cascade Mountains from Columbia streams draining west from the Cascade-are concurrent with the advent of River Gorge south to within about 10 Range in Multnomah, Clackamas, western hemlock. Western hemlock in a miles of the California state line in Marion, Linn, and Lane counties. forest apparently is an indicator of an southwestern Klamath County. It in- Along the eastern border of the prov- effective environment with 60 inches or cludes the cooler, more moist moun- ince, lower elevations vary from about more of precipitation annually as well tains west of the hot, dry eastern - 2,000 feet west of Hood River Valley in as significantly cooler local climatic gon area, north of the hot, dry Klamath Hood River County to about 4,000 feet conditions .41, 46 Falls-Ashland-Medford area, and east in western Wasco County. Southward, When transecting from the arid, warm of the warm . Cas- near the California border, the lower forest of The Dalles Province west into cade Province is typified by Douglas- elevations of Cascade Province are the moist, cool forest of Cascade Prov- fir-true fir-hemlock forests (Fig. 8). about 5,500 feet. ince, the advent of western hemlock in Western hemlock is the key ecological The highest elevation within Cascade the plant community apparently signals indicator species distinguishing Province is Mt. Hood at 11,245 feet. the zone of more moisture and cooler Cascade Province. Other high points within the province temperatures, which also is indicated The province covers about 3.7 million are Mt. Jefferson, 10,405 feet; Mt. Mc- by the Divers, Hutson, and Thader soil acres in Hood River, Multnomah, Loughlin, 9,497 feet; Pelican Butte, series in Hood River County. Clackamas, Wasco, Jefferson, Marion, 8,025 feet; Brown Mountain, 7,990 Consequently, western hemlock was Lane, Linn, Douglas, Jackson and Kla- feet; and Klamath Point, 7,510 feet. chosen as the key indicator species dif- math counties. It is physically separatedThe high country within the province is ferentiating Cascade Province from from the Cascade Mountains in Wash- generally between 5,000 and 6,000 feet continguous provinces in Oregon be- ington by the , elevation (Fig. 9). Other spectacular cause, first, it is widespread at higher which is in Willamette Province. The peaks in the Cascade Mountains lie in elevations on both east and west slopes entire Cascade Province is in Oregon. Mazama Province. (Elevations are from USGS 1:250,000 topographic maps.) of the Cascade Mountains; and, second, a tree is a reliable indicator of average Description Numerous field observations are that climatic conditions over long cycles. Cascade Province is characterized the advent of western hemlock in the by mountainous terrain related to the forest composition is a reliable and Cascade Mountain range in Oregon and widespread ecological indicator of the Soils by steep dendritic drainage patterns point at which a very significant The geomorphology of soils which are primarily associated with the ecological change occurs in soils, typifying Cascade Province shows a Willamette River system. Lower vegetation, and management implica- variety of parent materials associated

14 Cascade Ecological Province with the geology of the Cascade and minimum temperatures are 58 and than 70 inches. Nevertheless, the effect Mountains. Primary parent materials 37.3°F,respectively. of north-facing cool exposures in- include residuum and colluvium from creases the effectiveness of the actual basalt, andesite, tuffs, breccias, and ash Based on four official weather stations precipitation to the equivalent of 70 related to the volcanic activity and representing the lower western bound- inches or more. This map also shows weathering during formation of the ary of the province, average annual nearly 200 inches average annual current mountain range. precipitation is about 72.5 inches, of precipitation on Mt. Hood and nearly which about 19% occurs during the 150 inches on Mt. Jefferson. Cascade Province extends about 250 herbaceous-plant growing season, April miles, north to south, in Oregon. Con- through July. October through March sequently, the province includes a very precipitation is about 77% of the total. Vegetation wide cross-section of climatic and Average January maximum and mini- According to the 1936 State of geologic situations which results in mum temperatures are 40.9 and 28.1 °F, Oregon Forest Type Map,54 the only numerous soil series (Table 4). respectively. Average April through sizable nonforested areas in Cascade July growing season maximum and Province were areas above timberline Climate minimum temperatures are 67.8 and on Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson and a 42.9°F, respectively. few scattered burns which were less Based on two official weather sta- than 10% restocked. Otherwise, the tions at upper elevations in Cascade A recent precipitation map53 shows province was forested except for some Province, average annual precipitation about 60 inches or more average annual small mountain meadows, bogs, and is about 84.5 inches, of which about precipitation along the east boundary of bands of natural shrublands in timbered 21% occurs during the herbaceous- Cascade Province. Along the west areas and sporadically where deep, plant growing season, April through boundary, average annual precipitation longlasting snowpacks form. July. October through March ("winter") is about 70 inches or more. precipitation is about 70% of the annual Soil and plant studies of specific eco- total. Average January maximum and However, where the province extends logical sites within Cascade Province minimum temperatures are 38.1 and west on north-facing exposures along are not available if, indeed, such studies 21.6°F, respectively. Average April major drainages,°the average annual have been made. However, general through July growing season maximum precipitation in the general area is less observations indicate that above 3,500 to 4,000 feet elevation, noble and shasta fir and mountain hemlock are Table 4. Distribution of Prominent Soil Series prominent trees; lodgepole pine is in Cascade Ecological Province, Oregon. common on flats and in concave areas. Oregon counties Beargrass, rhododendron, red huckle-

U) berry, trailing blackberry, salal, sword co N o C: fern, Cascade Oregon-grape, and bush E 0 :IF E CU co 0 c 0 u ro 0 0 chinkapin are common in the forest Representative °'o c C ECZ c CU understory and diminish in abundance soil series 0 0 2 - above about 5,000 feet elevation. Aschoff x X Bohannon x x Below about 3,500 to 4,000 feet, Bull Run x x Douglas-fir, white and grand fir, and Coyata x x western hemlock are prominent trees, Divers x occasionally with white pine in the Dumont x x northern portion or sugar pine in the Henline x x southern portion and, at lower eleva- Holderman x x tions, bigleaf maple. The understory is fairly abundant at these elevations and Howard x x Hutson x includes vine maple, bush chinkapin, snowbrush, grayleaf manzanita, Jojo x x Cascade Oregon-grape, bracken fern, Keel x x and blue huckleberry. Kinney x x Klickitat x x Mountain meadows and bogs are Mackatie X x typified by species such as Crater Lake McCully x x sedge, black alpine sedge, Drummond Pinhead x x rush, alpine aster, and tall trisetum. Reinecke x x Subalpine zones include such species Thader x as subalpine fir, Engelmann spruce, and

Cascade Ecological Province 15 Table 5. Climatic Data for Cascade Ecological Province, Oregon." Station and Precipitation Average maximum and minimum length of record Elevation Annual Oct.-March April-July temperatures (°F) (years) (feet) (inches) (%) (%) January April-July High Country Clackamas County Government Camp 29 3,580 85.1 72 19 37.4-22.9 56.8-36.5 Douglas County Musick 6 5,530 84.8 69 23 38.8-23.3 59.3-38.0

High Country Average 84.5 70 21 38.1-21.6 58.0-37.3 Low Western Boundary Clackamas County Sundown Ranch 21 2,400 74.6 76 19 41.7-30.0 62.1-42.5 Three Lynx 22 1,135 67.7 77 18 41.6-29.7 69.8-45.1 Zig Zag 11 1,435 73.3 74 20 39.6-27.5 68.0-43.2 Marion County Detroit 15 1,400 74.2 79 17 40.7-25.3 71.2-40.8 Low Western Boundary Average 72.5 77 19 40.9-28.1 67.8-42.9

No official weather stations in Cascade Province in Hood River, Jackson, Jefferson, Klamath, Lane, Linn, Multnomah, or Wasco counties. whitebark pine. Bands of shrubs aroundThe character of Cascade Province and about 6 miles south of Parkdale in timbered slopes include huckleberry, its watershed implications suggest the Upper Hood River Valley and east of heather, and a wide variety of forbs. need to consider a land classification Highway 35, at an elevation of about system that distinguishes between areas 3,000 feet. Starting from this location, suited to tree farms and areas in which the line meanders northwest to the Management Implications forestry should be oriented primarily Columbia River Gorge where it Much of Cascade Province consistsaround watershed management. continues along steep breaks of the of steep mountainous watersheds re- gorge. Hood River Valley and Colum- A precedent for this approach has been lated to the dendritic pattern of upper bia Gorge are in Willamette Province.44 used in general agriculture. There, a sys- drainages, primarily into the Willamette The line of demarcation between tem classifies land according to various River system. Because of the steep Cascade and Willamette provinces is degrees of suitability for agricultural slopes and fragile soils, roads must be signified by the appearance of western use. During early stages of the national restricted as well as carefully planned hemlock in the Cascade forests. and maintained in order to maintain or soil conservation movement, this land- restore acceptable watershed quality. use approach was effective in inform- North of Larch Mountain in eastern ing the public and landowners about Multnomah County, the line gradually Watershed implications in this provincebasic conservation principles. It also drops to about 1,400 feet in the vicinity are probably the greatest of any prov- helped landowners make relatively of Bridal Veil, and from this area the ince in Oregon because of urbanization broad determinations, based primarily line veers south at about that elevation. in the Willamette Valley. Water from on soils and slopes, of types of land-useAs the line goes south, it follows these watersheds is increasingly impor- activities and management options. A eastward up the south-facing slopes of tant; thus, in the Cascade Province similar classification of forested lands each major drainage that heads in the watershed values should be a primary would likely help publicize and put intoCascade Mountains and returns consideration in management decisions.use basic forest management principles westward along the base of north- related to watershed quality as well as facing slopes of that same drainage. Some areas in the province may be commercial use. suitable for intensive forestry-tree This path reflects a significant pattern farming. Other areas undoubtedly need Province Demarcation in the elevations at which western to be managed primarily for watershed hemlock signifies the Cascade Prov- quality, which would likely involve Cascade - Willamette ince. Obviously, the pattern is an effect such practices as selective harvesting to Demarcation of the warm and climate of Willamette achieve prescribed watershed qualities The juncture between Cascade, Valley which extends up these valleys. with minimum soil deterioration. The Dalles, and Willamette provinces is Along the base of north exposures,

16 Cascade Ecological Province western hemlock is at about 1,200 feet, north of the McKenzie River and the about 10 miles east of Roseburg, which and that elevation on north exposures inportion south of it. The line between is in Willamette Province, lies the drainages does not vary significantly Cascade and Willamette provinces east junction of Cascade, Willamette, and from the Sandy River southeast of Port-of Cottage Grove, which is in Willam- Siskiyou provinces.36, so In this vicinity, land south to the North Umpqua River ette Province, lies at about 2,000 feet the drainages into South Umpqua River northeast of Roseburg. Western hem- elevation on west-facing slopes. It are southwesterly which exposes the lock grows at about 1,200 feet eleva- meanders up and back down various generally south-facing headwaters of tion on north-facing slopes of each minor drainages between there and the the drainages to the arid, hot climate major drainage in this part of Oregon. North Fork Umpqua River. that typifies Siskiyou Province. Conse- quently, the line between Cascade and However, in this same area on south- The line crosses North Fork Umpqua Siskiyou provinces generally follows facing slopes (which represent increas- River about 5 miles northeast of Glide, around the headwaters of the drainages ingly drier and warmer situations) in Willamette Province, near Idleyld at about 3,000 feet on south- and west- Park in the topographic gap where western hemlock rises in elevation facing slopes. from north to south. For example, alongRock Creek fish hatchery is. From this the Sandy River southeast of Portland, gap, the line runs south up the ridge to In the headwaters of South Umpqua western hemlock occurs at about 1,400 about 2,800 feet elevation on south- River and its tributaries, the line of feet elevation on south-facing slopes. facing slopes near Shivigny Mountain, demarcation wanders south at about But, when the line of demarcation which is in Cascade Province. 4,000 feet elevation. It continues along continues southward from the vicinity From this area around the upper the west slopes of Quartz Mountain and of Firwood on Highway 26 in Clacka- reaches of Little River, hemlock grows then southerly along the west slopes of mas County, the appearance of western at about 1,500 feet elevation on north- Bald Mountain to cross the Rogue hemlock on south exposures rises to facing slopes and at about 2,800 feet on River about 6 miles below the commu- about 1,600 feet. Farther south along west- and south-facing slopes. Unpub- nity of Prospect, which is in Mazama South Santiam River, western hemlock lished studies36 indicate that areas Province. In this area the narrow ash grows at about 1,800 feet elevation on above about 3,600 feet in Cascade flow out of Mt. Mazama (Crater Lake), south-facing slopes. ° Province are forested mainly by true fir which extends southwest between the communities of Union Creek and Pros- Western hemlock on south-facing and mountain hemlock. These high- elevation areas have been referred to pect, creates a narrow strip connecting slopes and on climate-climax positions the portions of Cascade Province that probably grows at about 1,800 feet locally as the High Cascades, and they are components of Cascade Province. lie to the north and the south of Crater elevation along the Santiam, Calapooya, Lake. and McKenzie river drainages. How- ever, farther south along the Middle Cascade -Siskiyou Demarcation From about 6 miles below the commu- Fork Willamette River, the occurrence In the vicinity of Lane Mountain nity of Prospect, the line meanders of western hemlock rises to about 2,000 feet elevation on both south- and north- Table 6. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends facing slopes. in Cascade Ecological Province, Oregon. In this north-to-south transition, the Station and line of demarcation between Cascade length of record Elevation Average date Average date growth begins* growth ends* and Willamette provinces extends east, (years) (feet) up the Sandy River to about Bright- High Country wood; up the Clackamas River to about Clackamas County Does not occur Fish Creek; up the Little North Santiam Government Camp 29 3,580 April 27 to about Elkhorn; up the North Santi- Douglas County am River to about 6 miles east of Mill Musick 6 5,530 April 1 Does not occur City; up the Middle Santiam River to Low Western Boundary just below Green Peter Dam; up South Clackamas County Santiam River to about House Rock Sundown Ranch 21 2,400 March 7 Does not occur Forest Camp; up the Calapooya River Three Lynx 22 1,135 February 22 Does not occur to about King Camp; and up McKenzie Zig Zag 11 1,435 March 1 Does not occur River to about Belknap Springs. Marion County Near Belknap Springs, the eastern Detroit 15 1,400 March 1 Does not occur boundary of Willamette Province is * The average date vegetation growth begins on native perennial bunchgrasses is close to the western boundary of approximately the date average daily temperatures reach 39 to 40°F. Average date Mazama Province. A narrow strip growth ends is considered to be when available soil moisture is depleted. Interpreta- connects the part of Cascade Province tions are based on data in Johnsgard.17

Cascade Ecological Province 17 southeast at about 4,000 feet elevation. Table 7. Comparison of the More Abundant and Characteristic It gradually rises in elevation through Grass, Shrub, and Tree Species in the Cascade, Coast, and Willamette the headwaters of drainages into Rogue Provinces in Oregon.7, 23 River, Big Butte Creek, and Little Butte a Creek. Mt. McLoughlin is in Cascade a a CZ E V) m Province. Fish Lake at the head of Little co t0 co 0 Butte Creek is in Siskiyou Province. Vegetation U U The juncture of Cascade, Siskiyou, and Grasses Klamath provinces is near Brush Bluegrass, annual Poa annua x Mountain in southeastern Jackson Bluegrass, hotsprings Poa laxiflora x County at about 5,500 feet elevation. Bluegrass, Kentucky Poa pratensis x Bluegrass, Wheeler Poa nervosa x Cascade - Klamath Demarcation Brome, California Bromus carinatus x The line between Cascade and Kla- Brome, Columbia Bromus vulgaris x math provinces runs southeast at about Brome, soft Bromus mollis x 5,500 feet elevation around the head- Fescue, foxtail Festuca megalura x waters of Jenny Creek in southwestern Hairgrass, diffuse Aira elegans x Klamath County and on to the south Hairgrass, silver Aira caryophyllea x slopes of Buck Mountain. From Buck Oatgrass, tall Arrhenatherum elatius x Mountain, the line turns north on the Oniongrass, Alaska Melica subulata x east side of Buck Peak, Mt. Harriman, Orchardgrass Dactylis glomerata x Pelican Butte, Lather Mountain, and Reedgrass, bluejoint Calamagrostis canadensis x Klamath Point. Each of these moun- Ryegrass, Italian Lolium multiflorum x tains is in Cascade Province. The junc- Ryegrass, perennial Lolium perenne x ture of Cascade, Klamath, and Mazama Sweetgrass, California Hierochloa occidentalis x provinces is near Klamath Point. Timothy, alpine Phleum alpinum x Velvetgrass, common Holcus lanatus x Woodreed, drooping Cinna latifolia x x Cascade - Mazama Demarcation From that juncture, the line be- Shrubs tween Cascade and Mazama provinces Alder, mountain Alnus tenuifolia x goes northwest about 1 to 3 miles south Alder, red Alnus rubra x x of and somewhat paralleling Highway Alder, Sitka Alnus sinuata x 62, to the vicinity of Union Creek com- Azalea, Cascade Rhododendron albiflorum x munity. In this area, the Mazama Prov- Birch, bog Betula pumila x ince extends southerly in a valley 2 to 3 Blackberry, dwarf Rubus lasiococcus x miles wide lying on each side of High- Blackberry, evergreen Rubus laciniatus x way 62 from Union Creek south to Blackberry, strawberryleaf Rubus pedatus x Prospect. Ceanothus, redstem Ceanothus sanguineus x Ceanothus, snowbrush Ceanothus velutinus x This narrow extension of Mazama Cherry, bitter Prunus emarginata x Province appears to be a large ash flow Currant, Crater Lake Ribes erythrocarpum x along the upper Rogue River extending Currant, mapleleaf Ribes acerifolium x southwest from the main pumice Currant, redflower Ribes sanguineum x mantle near Crater Lake. The soil Currant, sticky Ribes viscosissimum x typifying this ash-flow extension of Currant, trailing black Ribes laxiflorum x Mazama Province is Alcot series. Soils Dewberry, snow Rubus nivalis x in adjacent Cascade Province are Dewberry, western Rubus vitifolius x Freezner and Geppart.68 Dogwood, western red Cornus californica x From the vicinity of Union Creek com- Elderberry, red Sambucus callicarpa x munity, the line runs north across the Gooseberry, Watson Ribes watsonianum x x divide between the Rogue River and Hawthorn, black Crataegus douglassii North Umpqua River watersheds just Hazel, western Corvlus cornuta x east of Buckneck Mountain. From Huckleberry, grouse Vaccinium scoparium x there, it follows northerly down Clear Huckleberry, ovalleaf Vaccinium ovalifolium x Creek, across the plateau at Toketee Huckleberry, red Vaccinium parviflorum x airstrip, and across North Umpqua (continued)

18 Cascade Ecological Province Table 7 (cont'd). Comparison of the More Abundant and Characteristic River below Toketee Reservoir. It then Grass, Shrub, and Tree Species in the Cascade, Coast, and Willamette heads northeast to cross the divide Provinces in Oregon. between North Umpqua River and the a) headwaters of the Middle Fork Willam- al a> ette River about 5 miles west of the E 0 Z5 (a CZ crest.91 (C 0 Vegetation 0 0 From the headwaters of the Middle Shrubs (continued) Fork Willamette River, the line between Huckleberry, thinleaf Vaccinium membranaceum x Cascade and Mazama provinces runs Kalmia, bog Kalmia microphylla x north around the west side of Bear Manzanita, greenleaf Arctostaphylos patula x Mountain to Salt Creek canyon. There, Maple, vine Acer circinatum x the Southern Pacific railroad climbs a Menziesia, rustyleaf Menziesia ferruginea x switchback out of Salt Creek to pass Mountain-ash, dwarf Sorbus occidentalis x over the summit of the Cascade Moun- Mountain-ash, Pacific Sorbus sitchensis x tains just west of Odell Lake, which is Oregon-grape, tall Berberis aquifolium x in Mazama Province. The line of Pachystima Pachystima myrsinites x demarcation goes north, to the west of Poison-oak, Pacific Rhus diversiloba x Waldo Lake, and then east of Moolack Prince's-pine, common Chimaphila umbellata x Mountain and around the headwaters of Rose, Nootka Rosa nutkana x the South Fork McKenzie River.93 Rose, pearfruit Rosa pisocarpa x Rose, sweetbrier Rosa eglanteria x The 1970 General Soil Map of Linn Scotchbroom Cytisus scoparius x County80 does not provide soil informa- Serviceberry, western Amelanchier florida x tion in the mountainous eastern portion Spirea, Douglas Spirea douglasii x of the county. Therefore, the line of de- Spirea, subalpine Spirea densiflora x marcation between Cascade and Maza- Willow, feathervein Salix pennata x ma provinces in that area is drawn on Willow, Sierra Salix orestera x the basis of topographic features of the Wintergreen, Oregon Gaultheria ovatifolia x line on maps to the south of this area. Wormwood, Douglas Artemisia douglasiana x In Lane and Douglas counties, the Trees mapped pumice-mantle boundary is Ash, Oregon Fraxinus latifolia x primarily along a major topographic Cottonwood, black Populus trichocarpa x change in the landscape: a relatively Dogwood, Pacific flowering Cornus nuttallii x undulating or sloping area to the east of Douglas-fir Pseudotsuga menziesii x x x the line, which typifies Mazama Fir, grand Abies grandis x x Province in that area and, to the west, Fir, Pacific silver Abies amabilis x relatively steep mountainous terrain Fir, subalpine Abies lasiocarpa x which represents the sharp dendritic Hemlock, mountain Tsuga mertensiana x drainage pattern of Cascade Province. Hemlock, western Tsuga heterophylla x x Some pumice from the eruption of Mt. x Maple, bigleaf Acer macrocephyllum Mazama likely fell in the Cascade x Oak, Oregon white Quercus garryana Mountains west of the current pumice Pine, lodgepole Pinus contorta murrayana x mantle. However, because of the steep x Pine, shore Pinus contorta contorta dendritic drainage pattern representing Pine, western white Pinus monticola x headwaters of numerous drainages into Pine, whitebark Pinus albicaulus x the Willamette River, these pumice Redcedar, western Thuja plicata x x deposits probably have been washed Spruce, Sitka Picea sitchensis x downstream or may still be in isolated x Willow, Pacific Salix lasiandra deposits mainly on steep north-facing x Willow, Piper Salix piperi slopes within Willamette Province. Willow, Scouler Salix scouleriana x Using the previously described topo- graphic feature as a guide, the line of demarcation between Cascade and Mazama provinces is predicted to run north from the headwaters of the South

Cascade Ecological Province 19 Fork McKenzie River on around the soil series, which typify Mazama elevation at which western hemlock headwaters of the McKenzie and South Province.79 Farther north, in western becomes a significant component of Santiam rivers near Fish and Lava Jefferson County, the soil series in forested plant communities in this area. lakes, about where Highway 20 crosses Cascade Province may be Howash and the pass. From there, the predicted line Mackatie, which typify Cascade In southwestern Wasco County, the veers northeast to cross Highway 22 Province on the Warm Springs Indian demarcation line drops to about 4,000 about 4 to 5 miles northwest of SantiamReservation.96 Soil series in adjacent feet elevation as it goes north. Western Junction. The line probably continues Mazama Province include Lapine, hemlock's growth at lower elevations northeast into Jefferson County north ofShanahan, Deschutes, and Steiger.70 in northern Oregon than in southern Three Fingered Jack peak and to where Oregon is seen on both east and west Jefferson Creek joins Metolius River. slopes of the Cascades as well as along In that area, Cascade, Mazama, and The Cascade -The Dalles the east slopes of the Coast Range. Dalles provinces meet. Demarcation Apparently, this is due to an overall From the juncture of Cascade, warmer climate to the south which The demarcation line between Cascade Mazama, and The Dalles provinces in causes western hemlock to grow at high and Mazama provinces in Douglas, western Jefferson County, the line be- elevations. The line meanders north at Lane, and Linn counties is based on tween Cascade and The Dalles prov- about 3,000 feet elevation to an area soil lines between Holderman and Keel inces runs north along the eastern near the southeastern corner of Upper soil series, which typify Cascade slopes of the Cascades at about 4,500 Hood River Valley where Cascade, The Province, and Winopee and Shukash feet elevation-approximately the Dalles, and Willamette provinces join.

20 Cascade Ecological Province I Coast Ecological Province

Location entire drainage systems of 20 rivers- point in the province is Marys Peak in The Coast Ecological Province in from north to south, the Clatskanie, Benton County at 4,097 feet elevation Oregon includes the mountainous up- Youngs, Lewis and Clark, Necanicum, (Fig. 11). A few other prominent moun- lands of the Coast Range and the hills, Nehalem, Salmonberry, Miami, Wilson, tains, including Hanging Rock at 3,954 valleys, tidelands, and beaches within Trask, Nestucca, Siletz, Yaquina, Alsea, feet in Coos County and Dutchman the fog zone of the Pacific Ocean. It Yachats, Coos, Coquille, Sixes, Elk, Butte at 3,907 feet in Douglas County, extends about 300 air miles north to Pistol, and Chetco. are in Coast Province. However, most prominent peaks are less than 3,400 south across the entire state from the It also includes lower reaches of three feet elevation. (Elevations are from Columbia River down to the Oregon- major rivers-Siuslaw, Smith, and USGS 1:250,000 topographic maps.) California border. It is widest east to Umpqua-which have major water- west along the Columbia River where itsheds in Willamette Province to the extends from near west of Numerous field observations are that east. About 15 miles of the lower Rogue the advent of western hemlock in the Astoria upriver about 50 air miles to River, which transects Siskiyou Prov- near Rainier. It is about 45 air miles forest composition is a reliable and ince to the east, is within the coastal widespread ecological indicator of the wide near in Curry Coun- fog zone that characterizes the southern point in the landscape at which a very ty. Farther south, near Gold Beach, the portion of Coast Province in Oregon. province is only about 1 to 2 miles significant ecological change occurs in soils, vegetation, and management wide in a few locations due to upland Coast Province has three general geo- implications when transecting from and promontories in Siskiyou Province, morphic features: the mountainous forest to moist forest. Other species, such as Grizzly Peak and Sundown Coast Range, coastal terraces, and a woody and herbaceous, also change Mountain, which are higher than the narrow coastal plain interrupted by with the advent of western hemlock. normal fog zone along the coast. headlands of resistant rocks that extend to the shoreline (Fig. 10). Coast Province in Oregon covers about InOregon,western hemlock in a forest 4.5 million acres in Clatsop, Columbia, All principal valley mouths have been apparently indicates an effective envi- Washington, Tillamook, Yamhill, Polk, drowned by the sea. Extensive sand ronment equivalent to 60 or more inches Lincoln, Benton, Lane, Douglas, Coos, dunes near the mouths of most rivers average annual precipitation and signi- and Curry counties. It extends north are intermittent from Coos Bay north. ficantly cooler local climatic condi- tions,34, 35, 36, 37, 44, 45, 46 across the Columbia River into Wash- Drowning of present streams has ington and south into California. formed bays and long alluvial flats. The Western hemlock is a reliable indicator tide commonly reaches 20 miles up a of average climatic conditions over major river.' Description long climate cycles. Thus, western Physiographically, the Coast The entire west boundary of Coast hemlock was chosen as the key species Province in Oregon includes nearly the Province is at sea level. The highest differentiating Coast Province, in which

Coast Ecological Province 21 it generally is common in forested involves a very wide variety of parent tion results from the extent of the Coast uplands, from Willamette and Siskiyou materials including geologically recent Province which, in Oregon, is from the provinces in which it is not generally alluvial terraces and bottomlands along mouth of the Columbia River south to common in forested uplands. streams, tidal flats at mouths of valleys the California border and from the that have been drowned by the sea, old shores of the Pacific to the crest (and Soils marine terraces, and the Coast Moun- beyond in some instances) of the Coast The geomorphology of soils tains which consist of sandstone, basalt,Range in Oregon. The province includes typifying Coast Province of Oregon breccias, and tuffs.9 Further complica- all or part of 12 counties and all or major portions of 20 rivers. Conse- quently, soil series of Coast Province in Table 8. Distribution of Prominent Soil Series Oregon are too numerous to categorize. in Coast Ecological Province, Oregon. However, Table 8 illustrates how some Oregon counties series are widespread in the province c and others are more or less local.

CO ca o rn c 0. .0 N c 0 C _ 0 0 Representative C 0 f0 E 0 r_ 75 = Climate soil series co UU U 0 >T JJ CL H Based on 24 official weather Astoria stations, primarily covering the coastal Bandon portion of Coast Province, average Bohannon annual precipitation is about 76.2 Braillier x x inches. Of that, about 40% falls during Brenner x the major part of the herbaceous-plant Capeblanco x growing season, February through Cascade June. October through January (winter) Coquille precipitation is about 55% of the preci- Depoe pitation. Average January maximum Digger x and minimum temperatures are 49.5 Dullards x and 35.4°F, respectively. Average Feb- Fendall X ruary through June maximum and Floras x minimum temperatures are 59.4 and Gearhart 41.6°F, respectively. Heceta Hembre The highest precipitation recorded at Honeygrove x these stationsis 130.6inches at Klickitat x Glenora, at about575 feetelevation Knappe about 10 miles south of Tillamook Langlois community.Lowest precipitation, less Millicoma than 60inches,is recorded at Clats- kanie onthe ColumbiaRiver and at Nehalem Bandonin Coos County. Nelscott X Neskowin x A recent precipitation map53 shows Nestucca about 200 inches average annual Netarts x precipitation in northeastern Tillamook Olyic x County where the elevation is over Peavine 3,000 feet in the headwaters of the Preacher North Fork Wilson River. This is the Quillayute x highest precipitation in Oregon. Reedsport x Sauvie x This map also shows about 175 inches Slickrock x x x average annual precipitation in western Umpcoos Polk County, north of the former Waldport x Valsetz community, at over 3,000 feet Warrenton x elevation near Sugarloaf Mountain; and Westport x about 150 inches in northeastern Winema x x Lincoln County at over 3,000 feet Yaquina x elevation near Stott Mountain. Other

22 Coast Ecological Province prominent uplands in Coast Province southern counties of Douglas, Coos, Vegetation have 100 or more inches average annual and Curry are more and annually and From a vegetation standpoint, precipitation. Tillamook County has thewarmer in January than other counties Coast Province in Oregon is generally largest area of over-100-inches average to the north. They also have somewhat the area west of the elevation at which annual precipitation in the province. higher minimum temperatures in the western hemlock grows in forest plant Based on official weather stations, the February through June growing season. communities of the Coast Range from

Table 9. Climatic Data for Coast Ecological Province, Oregon." Precipitation Station and Average maximum and minimum length of record Elevation Annual Oct.-Jan. Feb.-June temperatures (°F) (years) (feet) (inches) (%) (%) January Feb.-June Clatsop County Astor Expt. Sta. 15 50 75.7 54 39 47.4-32.8 58.9-40.3 Astoria 21 10 80.8 55 37 46.7-34.9 58.3-42.1 Jewell 11 200 71.2 55 38 42.5-30.5 58.9-38.9 Seaside 21 10 79.7 54 39 50.6-35.9 58.4-42.1 Columbia County Clatskanie 17 50 55.6 55 40 41.9-31.3 58.9-41.3 Coos County Bandon 10 8 55.5 57 39 52.6-36.7 58.4-42.1 Coquille 9 61 59.8 56 40 51.3-32.9 62.0-41.2 McKinley 12 140 66.9 54 41 51.4-35.6 61.2-40.0 Marshfield 29 38 64.5 54 41 51.6-36.6 59.3-41.4 North Bend 21 11 62.3 57 39 52.2-38.0 58.5-43.8 Powers 20 275 61.6 57 40 52.9-33.9 63.7-40.8 Curry County Brookings 21 80 81.9 56 40 54.0-39.9 60.0-44.1 Gold Beach 16 50 81.6 57 39 54.0-39.9 58.2-44.1 Port Orford 18 24 71.5 54 42 53.6-39.6 58.6-44.1 Douglas County Gardiner 22 15 78.1 54 41 50.3-38.6 58.7-43.4 Reedsport 13 12 74.2 55 40 50.7-36.6 59.2-42.6 Lane County Canary 20 100 78.6 55 39 49.9-35.0 59.5-40.8 Deadwood 12 350 91.9 57 38 47.2-35.4 61.0-40.9 Lincoln County Tidewater Hatchery 11 40 93.0 56 38 46.5-33.8 61.5-41.7 Newport 19 128 65.7 54 40 49.4-38.1 57.1-43.5 Toledo 34 50 75.6 53 42 51.5-34.7 60.5-39.9 Tillamook County Cloverdale 11 20 82.7 53 40 48.5-34.4 58.5-41.4 Glenora 25 575 130.6 58 39 42.8-30.5 58.5-36.5 Tillamook 19 15 89.4 54 39 49.0-34.0 58.1-40.4 Province Average 76.2 55 40 49.5-35.4 59.4-41.6 County Averages Clatsop 76.9 55 38 46.8-33.5 58.6-40.9 Columbia 55.6 55 40 41.9-31.3 58.9-41.3 Coos 61.8 56 40 52.0-35.6 60.5-41.6 Curry 78.3 56 40 53.9-39.8 58.9-44.1 Douglas 76.2 55 41 50.5-73.6 59.0-43.0 Lane 85.3 56 39 48.6-35.2 60.3-40.9 Lincoln 78.1 54 40 49.1-35.5 59.7-41.7 Tillamook 100.9 55 38 46.8-33.0 58.4-39.4

Coast Ecological Province 23 the Columbia River south to southwest-Table 10. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends ern Douglas County. Along this line of in Coast Ecological Province, Oregon. demarcation between Coast and Wil- Station and lamette provinces, Coast Province is length of record Elevation Average date Average date typified by forest communities in which (years) (feet) growthbegins* growth ends* such species as western hemlock, Clatsop County Douglas-fir, red elderberry, and red Astor Expt. Sta. 15 50 winter growing Does not occur alder are common (Fig. 12). The con- Astoria 21 10 winter growing Does not occur tiguous Willamette Province to the east Jewell 11 200 February 7 Does not occur is typified by forest plant communities Seaside 21 10 winter growing Does not occur in which western hemlock is scarce or Columbia County absent but Douglas-fir, bigleaf maple, Clatskanie 17 50 February 7 Does not occur and Oregon white oak are common. Coos County In southwestern Douglas County, the Bandon 10 8 winter growing Does not occur Coast Province becomes contiguous Coquille 9 61 winter growing Does not occur with Siskiyou Province to the south; the McKinley 12 140 winter growing Does not occur line of demarcation continues south- Marshfield 29 38 winter growing Does not occur westerly through Curry County to the North Bend 21 11 winter growing Does not occur normal coastal fog zone about 12 miles Powers 20 275 winter growing Does not occur upriver from Gold Beach on the Rogue Curry County River. Along the line, Coast Province is Brookings 21 80 winter growing Does not occur typified by western hemlock, Douglas- Gold Beach 16 50 winter growing Does not occur fir, and some scattered tanoak in forest Port Orford 18 24 winter growing Does not occur plant communities. Contiguous Siski- you Province is typified by a domi- Douglas County nance of tanoak and abundant Pacific Gardiner 22 15 winter growing Does not occur madrone, wedgeleaf ceanothus, and Reedsport 13 12 winter growing Does not occur Douglas-fir. Lane County Canary 20 100 winter growing Does not occur From central Curry County south to the Deadwood 12 350 winter growing Does not occur California border, the Coast Province consists of the normal coastal fog zone Lincoln County and continues contiguous to Siskiyou Tidewater Hatchery 11 40 winter growing Does not occur Province. In this area, Coast Province is Newport 19 128 winter growing Does not occur typified by Sitka spruce, Douglas-fir, Toledo 34 50 winter growing Does not occur western hemlock, red alder, California- Tillamook County laurel, and, in the vicinity of Mt. Emily Cloverdale 11 20 winter growing Does not occur and Elk Mountain, scattered small Glenora 25 575 March 4 Does not occur stands of coast redwood. Siskiyou Tillamook 19 15 winter growing Does not occur Province to the east is typified by * The average date vegetation growth begins on herbaceous plants is approximately tanoak, Pacific madrone, and Douglas- the date average daily temperatures reach 39 to 40°F. Average date growth ends is fir with scattered, minor occurrence of considered to be when available soil moisture is depleted. Interpretations are based on western hemlock on north exposures.51 data in Johnsgard." For a comparison of the more abundant and characteristic grass, shrub, and tree tion. Less than 1% was occupied by however, the Deadwood station in Lane species in the Cascade, Coast, and Wil- shore pine. All the rest was classified as County, about 18 air miles inland from lamette ecological provinces in Oregon,Douglas-fir forest of various age the coast in the Siuslaw River drainage, see Table 7, pages 18-19. classes of which about 10% was classi- has growing conditions all winter. This According to the 1936 State of Oregon fied as deforested burns, including the likely reflects the generally warmer Forest Type Map,54 about 5% of Coast huge Tillamook burn. coastal climate that penetrates up the Province was classified as nonforested Clatskanie, Jewell, and Glenora weath- Siuslaw drainage. The Powers station, lands-native or improved pasture er stations, inland in northern Coast which is about 25 air miles inland from along major river and creek bottoms Province, have average monthly tem- Cape Blanco, also has continuous and wetlands around bays. About 1% ofperatures below 39°F at some time in winter growing conditions, likely due the province was classified as sand winter which terminates winter growth to the penetration of coastal climate up dunes and nonforested coastal vegeta on herbaceous plants. Farther south, the South Fork Coquille River.

24 Coast Ecological Province Although not supported by official It is important that management strate- mountain to cross Sunset Highway weather station data, higher elevations gies and practices be devised jointly by (U.S. 26) in the headwaters of Rock in the Coast Range have average appropriate scientists, practitioners, andCreek at about 1,600 feet elevation. monthly temperatures in winter that representatives of the involved public From the summit pass on Highway 26, terminate growth of herbaceous plants. so as to optimize the learning-by- the line goes southeast at about 1,750 Snowfall for brief periods is common listening process that is basic for feet elevation to the Tillamook- in winter on the Coast Range. resolving complicated resource issues. Washington county line. It cuts south at A precedent for this approach has been that elevation around the east and south Management Implications used previously in general agriculture. sides of Round Top and the headwaters Much of Coast Province consists It is a system for classifying land of Gales Creek. It crosses the pass be- of relatively steep mountains and according to various degrees of capa- tween Gales Creek and Wilson River at dendritic drainages of 24 river systems bility for agricultural use. During early about 1,600 feet elevation and returns that cross the province to flow into the stages of the soil conservation move- to 1,750 feet elevation to meander Columbia River or Pacific Ocean. For- ment, this land-use capability approach south around the headwaters of drain- estry is by far the prevalent commercial effectively informed the public and ages flowing east into the Tualatin and activity in the province. However tour- landowners about basic conservation North Yamhill rivers. ism, fisheries, wildlife, and agriculture principles. It also helped landowners Northwest of McMinnville, the demar- are significant commercial activities make relatively broad determinations, cation line makes a huge swing west at that are closely interrelated and, to based primarily on soils and slopes, of about 1,700 feet elevation around the some degree, interdependent with various types of land-use activities and headwaters of drainages flowing south commercial forestry. management options. into South Yamhill River. The line The potential for judicious managementA similar classification of forested crosses Highway 22 northwest of of renewable natural resources is lands would likely help publicize and Grande Ronde at about 670 feet significantly complicated by the patternput into practice basic forest manage- elevation and crosses Highway 18 in of ownership in Coast Province. ment principles related to watershed Van Duzer State Park at about 770 feet quality and other commercial values, elevation. This is the pass between the A map in the 1978 BLM Recreation as it did in agriculture. Yamhill and Salmon river drainages. Guide for Oregon shows private and public land ownership; at that time, From Van Duzer State Park, the demar- about 50% or more of the province was Province Demarcations cation line ascends the ridge to the owned privately, including some huge south. Within about 3 miles it is again blocks of land. Furthermore, most of Coast-Willamette Demarcation at about 1,750 feet elevation on Saddle- the public lands administered by BLM The line of demarcation between back Mountain. From there, it goes east lie in an alternate-section, checkerboard Coast and Willamette provinces begins and south at about 1,750 feet elevation pattern with private lands. This further just west of Rainier on the bank of the around headwaters of drainages flow- complicates interrelationships and Columbia River in Columbia County. ing into Yamhill and Little Luckiamute interdependencies. From there it meanders west along the rivers. From the south side of Mon- tops of steep slopes overlooking the mouth Peak in southwestern Polk The predominant forest aspect and Columbia at about 500 feet elevation. County, the line descends the ridge varying soil and physiographic compo- About 6 miles east of Clatskanie, the southeasterly to cross the Luckiamute nents of Coast Province strongly sug- line veers sharply to the south on topo- River at about 650 feet elevation. It gest the need for a land classification graphy about 750 to 1,000 feet eleva- ascends Ridge and then procedure that helps identify important tion that is west of Clatskanie River. meanders south along the crest of the bases for management strategies. Coast Range. The Coast Range de- At the ridge that separates the Clats- scends on the narrow divide between The procedure would distinguish, for kanie and Nehalem river drainages, the Marys River and Yaquina River to example, between areas capable of line of demarcation turns northwest about 730 feet elevation at the commu- sustaining intensive forestry-tree along the north side of Nehalem River nity of Summit, which is about 5 miles farming-and other areas where drainage at about 1,000 feet elevation. northwest of Blodgett on Highway 20. forestry should be designed explicitly In the upper reaches of Fishhawk to complement other significant values Creek, the line goes south to cross From the community of Summit, the such as watershed, fish, wildlife, and Nehalem Valley less than a mile west ofdemarcation line continues west and aesthetics. With such land classifica- Nehalem community, at about 600 feet south along the crest of the Coast tion, resource management strategies elevation. From there, it ascends the Range to cross the Corvallis-Newport and combinations of practices would beridge leading south to Green Mountain highway (U.S. 20) at about 800 feet initially predicated on inherent soil and where, at an elevation of about 1,750 elevation about 2 miles northwest of physiographic factors. feet, it circles east and south of the Burnt Woods community. This is the

Coast Ecological Province 25 pass between Tumtum River flowing the ridge across the river from Scotts- advent of western hemlock in forested east and Little Elk Creek flowing west. burg and goes southeast along the uplands, is about 600 feet elevation From there, the line of demarcation ridgetops to the big bends in Umpqua where it crosses Siuslaw River, about runs south along the crest of the Coast River west of Kellogg community. 470 feet as it crosses Umpqua River, Range to Marys Peak where it turns From there, it goes south along the and about 800 feet as it crosses Middle north and east around Marys Peak at ridgetop that divides drainages flowing Fork Coquille River. These rivers have about 1,700 feet elevation. east into Umpqua River and drainages major headwaters in Willamette flowing to the west into the Coos and Province. Furthermore, Umpqua River The line crosses the pass on Alsea High- Coquille rivers. drains sizable watersheds in both way (Oregon 34) at about 1,125 feet Cascade and Siskiyou provinces. elevation and continues southeast up The line crosses the Coos Bay Wagon the ridge and around the east slopes of Road west of Reston community, which Each of these river crossings and passes Flat Mountain at about 1,750 feet ele- is in Willamette Province, at 1,850 feet in the crest of the Coast Range, where vation. From there the line continues elevation and continues southwesterly the advent of western hemlock signifies south at about the same elevation. This at about 2,000 feet elevation. 36,16,11 the line of demarcation, apparently is the crest of the Coast Range between marks where the effects of the warm, drainages flowing into Alsea River to About 7 miles southwest of Camas and Willamette Valley climate are the west and Long Tom River to the Valley community, which is in Willam- overcome by the more moist, cool east. ette Province, the line crosses Highway coastal climate. 42 along Middle Fork Coquille River at The demarcation line continues south about 800 feet elevation. From there, along the crest of the Coast Range to the line climbs the ridge southeasterly Coast-Siskiyou Demarcation the pass between Wildcat Creek to the to Chipmunk Ridge .51 The junction of From the juncture of Coast, Wil- west and Noti Creek to the east, which the Coast, Willamette, and Siskiyou lamette, and Siskiyou,provinces near is about 6 miles southwest of Fern provincesis nearthe southeast end of Chipmunk Ridge in southwestern Ridge reservoir. The line continues Chipmunk Ridge. Douglas County, the line of demarca- southeasterly along the crest of the tion between Coast and Siskiyou Coast Range and then descends into the The line of demarcation between Coast provinces goes south at about 3,000 Siuslaw River drainage to cross the and Willamette provinces is based pri- feet elevation to Dutchman Butte. It river about 12 miles downriver from marily on the elevation at which west- follows Hayes Ridge southwesterly and Lorane community, which is northwest ern hemlock is common. This line also southward to Ninemile Mountain and of Cottage Grove. is supported by the general occurrence continues southwesterly at about 3,200 of such forested soils as the Bellpine, feet elevation to north of Kelsey Peak From the crossing on the river, the line Jory, Retner, and Bateman series, whichin northeastern Curry County. follows up the northside bottomlands typify Willamette Province, and by the along the river to about 2 miles east of Bohannon, Blachly, Preacher, and From there, the line runs west to the King Ranch. The bottomlands along Digger series which typify Coast vicinity of Big Meadows and then Siuslaw River below 600 feet elevation Province. north, west, and southwest at about are in the fog-belt zone of the Coast 3,000 feet elevation around the upper Province, which is typified by the pres- It is interesting to note that at locations Mule Creek watershed. It follows ence of occasional Sitka spruce trees. along the crest of the Coast Range Panther Ridge southwesterly at about From the vicinity of King Ranch on the where elevation is significantly below 2,800 feet elevation close to the Coos- Siuslaw, the line travels south along the 1,700 feet, the hemlock line is at the Curry county line. divide between Siuslaw and Smith pass on the summit. For example, rivers and then west around the head- where Sunset Highway (U.S. 26) From there, the line extends south waters of Smith River.93 crosses the summit into the Nehalem along the east slopes of Ophir Moun- River drainage, the province line is tain and Brushy Mountain at about From the headwaters of South Fork about 1,600 feet elevation. At the 2,800 feetelevation.In the vicinity of Smith River about 5 miles northwest of community of Summit on the pass Lake of the Woods Mountain the line Drain community, the line veers west between Marys River and Yaquina runs southwest to Soldier Camp Moun- along the divide between Smith River River, the summit is about 730 feet ele- tain,Second Prairie Mountain, and to the north and drainages flowing into vation. On Highway 20 between Cor- First Prairie Mountain. Elevation Umpqua River to the south. This por- vallis and Newport, the summit is about decreases from about 2,800 feet at tion of the Umpqua system is in 800 feet elevation. On the Alsea High- Soldier Camp Mountain to about 1,200 Willamette Province. way (Oregon 34), the summit is about feet in the vicinity of Lobster Hill just 1,125 feet elevation. north of RogueRivers' About 4 miles north of Scottsburg, the line goes south to cross Umpqua River Farther south, the Coast-Willamette The demarcation line in northeastern at Scottsburg community.36'" It ascends line of demarcation, based on the and north-central Curry County is

26 Coast Ecological Province based primarily on the elevation at alder, Douglas-fir, western hemlock, is less severe than it is to the north, which western hemlock is common in and other species that typify the cool, which may help account for a cooler, forested uplands in Coast Province, as moist fog zone coastal climate. more moist annual climate north along compared to the common appearance of the coast. The pattern of plant commu- tanoak, madrone, and other plant By comparison, the common appear- nity composition from south to north species that signify the warmer and ance of tanoak, Pacific madrone, and supports this view. drier conditions that typify the western related species signify the warmer, portion of Siskiyou Province. drier conditions that typify Siskiyou The coastal fog zone's upper boundary Province. This line also is supported by is the distance that fog normally pene- This line of demarcation also is sup- the general presence of such soils as trates major coastal river systems hav- ported by the general presence of such Bosland, Floras, Millicoma, and ing headwaters at higher elevations in forested soils as Preacher, Bohannon, Reedsport, which typify Coast Provincethe Coast Range. However, on major Digger, and Umpcoos, which typify in this area, and Fritsland, Bravo, coastal rivers with headwaters at low Coast Province,60 and the soil series Mislatnah, and Pollard which typify elevations in the Willamette Valley, Atring, Kanid, Acker, Beekman, Siskiyou Province in this area.56 such as the Umpqua, the normal fog Pollard, and Vermisa, which typify zone penetrates only to the point that Siskiyou Province in this vicinity.56 From the California border north, the the warmer, drier climate of the upper boundary of the normal coastal Willamette Valley resists fog penetra- In the vicinity of Lobster Hill the line fog zone is at about 1,200 to 1,400 feet tion up the drainage. On the upper between Coast and Siskiyou provinces elevation in the drainages of Winchuck, Umpqua River, for example, the line intersects the upper boundary of the Chetco, Pistol, and Rogue rivers where between Coast and Willamette prov- normal coastal fog zone at about 1,200 it constitutes the line of demarcation inces crosses the river from north to feet elevation. This upper boundary between Coast and Siskiyou provinces. south at Scottsburg, which has an coincides with the line of demarcation elevation of 47 feet. The Willamette from this area south to the Oregon- From the vicinity of the Rogue River Valley's type of vegetation - repre- California border. Several sharp bends north to Humbug Mountain, the upper senting a warm, dry climate -is very in the Rogue River near Lobster Hill boundary of the coastal fog zone apparent to the east of the line of apparently hinder the fog from going remains at about 1,200 feet elevation. demarcation at Scottsburg. farther upriver. The line of demarca- However, it does not constitute the tion, therefore, crosses the Rogue River Coast Province boundary in this area The differences between the coastal fog between Lobster Hill and Skookum- because east of the fog zone in this area zone north from Humbug Mountain and house Butte. are forested uplands in which western that from Humbug Mountain south to hemlock is common. the California border suggests that The line, which is the upper boundary further study to the south, into Califor- of the coastal fog zone, continues at Western hemlock is a key indicator nia, might substantiate the existence of about 1,200 feet elevation around the species that typifies uplands of Coast a Northern Coast Ecological Province headwaters of Quosatana Creek and Province from this vicinity north to the in California. west around Kimball Hill. The line runsColumbia River. southwesterly somewhat parallel to the The coastal fog zone south from Hum- North from Humbug Mountain, the Rogue River and then south at about bug Mountain may be a transition upper level of the fog zone lowers to 1,200 feet elevation. between a vegetation dominated to the about 800 feet elevation.51 Still farther north by Sitka spruce/western hemlock/ It travels up and around the head- north, the fog zone is up to about 500 shore pine/Douglas-fir and, to the waters of Hunter Creek, then west of to 600 feet elevation in the valleys of south, by a vegetation dominated by Sundown Mountain, up and around major drainages such as the Alsea, tanoak/Douglas-fir/coast redwood. headwaters of Pistol River and its Yaquina, and Salmon rivers. There, the However, based on current concepts, tributaries, of and its fog zone boundary is represented by the the coastal fog zone south from Hum- tributaries, and of Winchuck River and appearance of Sitka spruce, a key bug Mountain, although somewhat its tributaries at about 1,200 feet ele- indicator species of the cool, moist fog different from that north of the moun- vation.51 It crosses from Oregon into zone. 25, 34, 35, 36, 44, 45,46 tain in terms of vegetation and soils, California about 8 air miles east of the has been included in Coast Ecological Pacific Ocean. Changes from south to north in the elevation of the upper boundary of the Province. From the vicinity east of Lobster coastal fog zone is likely caused by Creek, a tributary of the Rogue River, changes in coastal climatic conditions. and south to the Oregon-California Although not substantiated by available border, the line of demarcation betweenweather data, observations of onshore Coast and Siskiyou provinces is based storm patterns have been that stormy on the presence of Sitka spruce, red weather south from Cape Blanco often

Coast Ecological Province 27 _

- Columbia Basin Ecological - ajL?,- Province

Location between Columbia Basin and Blue The lake basin subdivision of Columbia The Columbia Basin Province in Mountain provinces. The physiography Basin Province covers about 450,000 north-central Oregon includes the loweris mainly a hilly upland sloping up acres in Oregon. from north to south and dissected by portion, generally below about 3,500 The lake basin, with its underlying numerous dendritic-pattern drainages. feet elevation, of several major water- strata of gravel beds, hardpans, and A sizable sandy basin lies west of the sheds that drain north into the Colum- other materials, is geologically related Hermiston area. There are no promi- bia River. It covers about 3.25 million to the era of glacial melt farther north nent mountains in the province in acres and includes northwestern Uma- following the ice age. Geologists have Oregon. tilla County, the northern two-thirds of reported that the glacial melt resulted in Morrow County, all Gilliam County ex- Columbia Basin Province in Oregon the Missoula flood(s); the ice jam near cept for a very small area in the south- has two physiographic subdivisions The Dalles that backed up water (Lake east corner, all of Sherman County, which have significant ecological and Condon); and the ice floes containing much of northeast and southeast Wasco managementimplications.These are sand, silt, gravel, and other glacial County, a small area in northwest the ancient lakebasin,which is largely debris and erratics. When the floes Wheeler County, and about 2,500 acres irrigated agriculture except on the melted, these erratics and debris were west of Willowdale in northern Jeffer- Boardman Bombing Range Reserve, deposited over the landscape in the lake son County. and the silty uplands, which are dryland basin. Skeletal remains of mammoths Milton-Freewateris inthe northeast agriculture and native rangelands. and other ice-age artifacts have been uncovered in the lake basin. corner of the province; The Dalles is The smaller of the two subdivisions is just west (outside) the northwest corner the ancient lakebasin. Locally,this area of the province in Oregon. The province The silty uplands portion of Columbia is commonly called the Umatilla Basin, Basin Province is almost entirely dry- is bisected by lower reaches of six probably because early irrigation in the major drainages: Deschutes River, John land agriculture and rangeland. Nearly vicinity of Echo,Stanfield,Hermiston, all arable acreage is being farmed or Day River, Rock Creek, Willow Creek, Umatilla,Irrigon,and Boardman has been at one time, primarily for Butter Creek, and Umatilla River, all of depended on water from Umatilla River which flow generally north. The prov- wheat production in a wheat summer- stored in Cold Springs Reservoir west fallow alternate-year rotation (Fig. 13). ince extends into Washington. ofHermiston.Morerecently,pumping All the silty upland rangeland is from wells and from the Columbia considered a natural grassland (less Description River has greatly expanded irrigation than 10% canopy cover of woody Elevations within Columbia Basin agriculture in the lake basin and likely species in original ecological status). Province in Oregon range from about would have expanded it a great deal 100 feet near The Dalles to about 3,500 more if it hadn't been for the huge Throughout the natural grasslands that feet along the line of demarcation Boardman Bombing Range Reserve. have not been cultivated in Columbia

28 Columbia Basin Ecological Province Basin Province in Oregon, silty grass- mounds are coppice dunes formed Glaciers lay north of Oregon. Biscuit land soils on most plateaus and ridges around trees or shrubs; freezing and scabland is on ridges and plateaus be- between about 1,700 and 3,500 feet thawing, which, in the far north, tween 1,700 and 3,500 feet in Colum- elevation occur in a unique land pattern produces polygonal ground on tundra; bia Basin Province and at about 3,500 locally called biscuit scabland. and gophers' tunneling backward from to 4,500 feet elevation in Blue Moun- their nest sites which, over the years, tain Province. The pattern consists of small mounds ofgradually built up the area around the Sympathetic ice sheets likely covered grassland soils 5 to 20 feet or more in nest (this last theory was based on a some of these higher areas at the time diameter and usually about 20 to 36 situation in California). inches deep over basalt bedrock. Each glaciers were receding. Elevations mound, or biscuit, is surrounded by Undoubtedly, all such mounds are not above 4,500 feet and other, lower areas very shallow, very stony soils over alike, even though they look alike on could have been covered with thick ice basalt bedrock, which locally is called the surface. Also, all four of Allen's or even local glaciers. When a layer of scabland. Hence the name biscuit choices may apply somewhere but, ice melts, it melts uniformly over the scabland (Fig. 14). The biscuits vary conceptually, do not apply to the biscuitsurface but also melts faster in some somewhat in shape and size, usually scablands of Columbia Basin Province spots than in others to form circular or round but sometimes oblong. in Oregon. elongated depressions which eventually become holes in the ice. They make up about 5 to 30% or more Here are some facts about Oregon's of the area in which they are found. biscuit scabland. First, numerous road- As glaciers were receding north, the Where biscuits are in more than about cuts throughout the biscuit scabland in were from the cold, 40 to 50% of the area, some have been Columbia Basin Province prove that glacial area to the warm, equatorial farmed. Cultivation has redistributed the material underlying the biscuits is area, i.e., from north to south generally. the soil mantle so that it is essentially solid, very thick basalt (Fig. 15). That As glaciers receded, glacial debris was continuous but of varying depth- fact alone discredits some hypotheses exposed. Prevailing winds blew dust deeper on former biscuits and shal- cited above, i.e., gophers, ants, trees, south where it was deposited to become lower over what used to be scabland, and freezing-thawing polygons. the vast aeolian silty soils that typify with an undulate surface. the upland soils of Columbia Basin and Second, the soil profile of each Colum- Blue Mountain provinces. Biscuit scabland in Columbia Basin bia Basin biscuit in any general area Province is common from just west of has essentially, if not exactly, the same Aeolian soil material was deposited as Pilot Rock in Umatilla County to Dufur sequence of horizons, colors, textures, sympathetic ice sheets melted. Con- in Wasco County; however, the soil of and depth ranges as nearby continuous ceivably, the aeolian deposits on the ice the biscuit component of this pattern mantles of that soil. They are the same washed into and collected in holes changes from location to location. soil series whether in biscuits or in where the ice was melting. These col- continuous mantle. This suggests the lections of silt became mounds as the Soil series on biscuits include Condon, geomorphology-the source of parent ice sheet melted. The final ice melt on Morrow, Valby, Wapinitia, and Maupin material and the conditions under the sympathetic ice sheet was where silt loams; Condon series is the most which the soil was formed is the samescabland now exists between the extensive. The soil on the scabland for the biscuits as for the soil mantle. mounds. component is Bakeoven. Biscuits do not occur generally below 1,700 feet One previously unpublished concept of Obviously, erosion from runoff would elevation in aeolian soils such as the origination of biscuit scabland is remove silts from the area that is now Ritzville and Walla Walla silt loams. based on much personal experience scabland. Erosion also would tend to with the biscuit scabland complex in round the top of each biscuit and to During the past 150 years, more than slope the sides. Elongated biscuits are 30 hypotheses have been advanced to the Columbia Basin and Blue Mountain provinces in Oregon and on various oriented generally with the slope of the explain the origin of biscuit scabland, land, and lines of biscuits oriented with according to John Eliot Allen, emeritus published articles, one of which lists 23 topical references.18 the slope of the land are common. This professor of geology at Portland State might indicate that the final melt University. The possible reasons in- The concept originated with a point worked its way downslope in a concen- clude moles, gophers, Indian burials, made in one of these articles about the trated stream, thereby flushing off the hut sites, buffalo wallows, ant hills, and era of glaciation in North America. The silt to form a linear pattern of scabland. mounds formed around water, gas, oil, article noted that there were "sympa- This water action might also help or mud springs. thetic" ice sheets on areas at higher explain why scabland without biscuits Allen believed four of these were elevation south of the continental is primarily along outer edges of ridges reasonable: erosion, during which the glaciers. This is credible and forms the and on sloping areas in minor drainages mounds were protected by vegetation; basis for the following concept of how where water had concentrated to wash wind deposition, which posits that the biscuit scabland originated. the silt off basalt bedrock.

Columbia Basin Ecological Province 29 Some biscuits are deeper than others, drainages. Onyx silt loam is one of the bedrock have been formed primarily in which might be related to the thickness best bottomland soils in eastern Oregon silty aeolian deposits that reportedly of the ice sheet. Holes would have for irrigated agriculture. Large areas of originated and were blown south during more time to fill with silt where the ice strongly sodic bottomland and low ter- the era glaciers receded in Washington. sheet was fairly thick and the process race soils, such as Stanfield and Uma- These silty soils are quite uniform of melting was prolonged. Some areas pine series, are around Hermiston. throughout the province but vary do not have biscuit scabland but do somewhat from location to location due have a solid mantle of silty soils. This Along the perimeter of this ancient laketo climatic factors that influence soil may indicate the absence of an ice there is evidence of a lakeshore terrace profile development, such as color and sheet at the time of aeolian deposition; at about 900 feet elevation where it subsoil texture. many of these extensive soil areas are butts against adjacent uplands. Gener- at relatively low elevations where ice ally, this terrace consists of laminated For example, Ritzville series is a deep sheets probably did not exist. calcareous silty lacustrine deposits silt loam associated with precipitation which are likely related to aeolian of 9 to 11 inches. Walla Walla series is After the glaciers receded, prevailing materials reportedly blown south a deep silt loam associated with about winds returned to the global pattern, during the era of receding glaciers 13 to 14 inches precipitation. Soils such generally from southwest to northeast. farther north. as Condon and Valby are moderately The winds redistributed the aeolian silts deep silt loam over basalt, and Pilot Conceivably, aeolian materials that over the landscape to leave shallow soil Rock series is moderately deep silt were deposited in the ancient lake layers on south- and west-facing slopes loam over cemented hardpan; all are became mud flats around the perimeter, and deep deposits like snowdrifts on associated with 12 to 14 inches preci- and these now appear as a lakeshore north-facing slopes. This pattern is pitation. Morrow silt loam is moder- terrace. Thin, laminated horizontal typical currently. After the glacial era, ately deep over basalt and has a silty layers in this silty lakeshore terrace prevailing southerly winds deposited clay loam subsoil which reflects the 14- material support the concept that they and redistributed volcanic ash over the to-15-inch precipitation zone in which were lacustrine deposits, i.e., deposited area from sources such as Mt. Mazama. it is found. Consequently, volcanic ash is a promi- in still water over a long time. nent component of aeolian silty soils in Along the lake basin's northeast peri- All these soils in Columbia Basin both Columbia Basin and Blue Moun- Province are lighter in color than soils tain provinces in Oregon. meter, the lakeshore terrace is overlaid by sandy materials of varying thick- formed in comparable aeolian deposits in Blue Mountain Province. ness. They likely are related to the Soils prevailing northwesterly winds which Grassland soils on north-facing slopes Discharges of materials from pre- redistributed sandy surface materials are normally deeper than those on pla- historic Umatilla River and wind redis- from the interior to the northeastern teaus due to the snowdrift effect that tribution of sandy and silty surface edge of the lake basin after the lake re- prevailing southerly winds have had in materials originating during glacial ceded. Sagehill series soils illustrate theredistributing aeolian deposits. Wren- melt have likely influenced the mix of sand overlay of the silty lake terrace. them soil series reflects this situation. parent materials of the lake basin soils. Soils on south- and west-facing slopes, Along the southeastern and southern such as Lickskillet series, are very Sandy soils of this basin include such part of the lake basin, the lakeshore stony and fairly shallow to bedrock. series as Quincy, Royal, Taunton, and terrace is overlaid by aeolian silty Koehler, which represent deep sands as material of varying thickness. These The upland soil that suports natural well as sandy soils overlying hardpans aeolian deposits likely were made after shrub-grassland vegetation in Colum- or gravel beds and miscellaneous de- water receded and the lakeshore terrace bia Basin Province lies on plateaus and posits related to the ice age. Stabilized was exposed. Usually the line of de- ridgetops and is very shallow and very sand dunes, usually oriented southwest marcation is fairly distinct between the stony. It has a thin loamy surface layer to northeast, account for some of the aeolian deposit and the underlying and clayey subsoils and is usually less low ridges and valleys that typify parts lacustrine deposit. Moreover, the aeo- than 10 inches deep to basalt bedrock. of the basin. The dunes are represented lian deposit overlying the lakeshore The soil series is Bakeoven, and this generally by the Winchester soil series. terrace resembles nearby upland aeoli- land is locally called scabland. an soils in parent material, structure, Bottomlands along lower Butter Creek and texture. Silty soils overlying the and lower Umatilla River, which are lakeshore terrace around the perimeter Climate used mainly for irrigated agriculture, of this lake basin include series such as Based on six official weather are not sandy soils. They include such Sagemoor, Warden, and Ellisforde. stations representing a cross-section of soil series as Onyx and Hermiston, the ancient lake basin area in which which consist of alluvial silty materials Basalt underlies Columbia Basin farming usually requires irrigation, the originating in upper reaches of major uplands. Soils overlying this basalt average annual precipitation for the

30 Columbia Basin Ecological Province Table 11. Climatic Data for Columbia Basin Ecological Province, Oregon." Station and Precipitation Average maximum and minimum length of record Elevation Annual Oct.-Feb. March-June temperatures (°F) (years) (feet) (inches) (%) (%) January March-June Areain which farming usually requires irrigation Gilliam County Arlington Airport 20 890 8.8 66 27 38.7-25.1 70.2-44.5 Blaylock 17 237 9.8 68 24 39.9-27.2 71.8-47.3 Morrow County Ella 9 830 8.8 61 28 39.7-22.7 70.0-41.6 Umatilla County Echo 19 601 10.2 57 33 38.9-24.0 71.8-43.3 Hermiston 22 451 8.5 60 32 39.5-22.4 72.4-42.4 Umatilla 21 285 7.8 59 32 39.7-23.8 71.9-43.1 Irrigated-area Average 9.0 62 29 39.4-24.2 71.3-43.7

Area of dryland summer-fallow farming Gilliam County Condon 21 2,880 12.4 52 37 36.6-20.7 62.5-35.4 Mikkalo 7 1,500 9.1 61 25 35.6-20.9 65.7-40.1 Morrow County Heppner22 1,950 13.1 50 40 39.9-23.7 64.4-37.4 Sherman County Grass Valley 15 2,381 11.2 58 33 38.0-21.8 63.6-34.5 Kent 21 2,707 10.7 53 36 36.6-21.7 62.3-38.2 Moro 22 1,858 11.8 63 30 36.3-22.7 64.6-37.2 Wasco 22 1,270 11.7 65 27 37.0-23.6 66.2-40.6 Umatilla County Milton-Freewater 20 1,056 13.8 54 38 39.8-25.3 69.8-44.9 Pendleton Roundup Park 40 1,070 14.2 54 33 40.5-24.9 73.7-43.2 Pilot Rock 18 1,817 13.7 48 41 40.5-23.3 67.8-41.2 Wasco County Dufur 20 1,250 12.0 67 28 37.9-22.3 66.8-36.0 Dryland-area Average 12.2 57 33 38.0-22.8 66.2-39.0 No official weather station in Columbia Basin Province in Wheeler County. area is 9 inches. Of this, 29% comes tural crops and herbaceous native cant effect on the moisture available for during the growing season of native plants, March through June. October plant growth. herbaceous plants, March through June.through February precipitation is about About 62% of total precipitation falls 57% of total annual precipitation. Vegetation from October through February. Aver- Average January maximum and mini- Vegetation in the ancient lake basin age January maximum and minimum mum temperatures are 38 and 22.8°F, portion of Columbia Basin Province in temperatures are 39.4 and 24.2°F, respectively. Average March through Oregon is a natural shrub-grassland respectively. Average March through June maximum and minimum tempera- (10% or more canopy cover of shrubs) June maximum and minimum tempera- tures are 66.2 and 39°F, respectively. based on soil and ecological site studies tures are 71.3 and 43.7°F, respectively. Precipitation and temperature data vary made in the 1950s and 1960s.38 from locality to locality (Table 11). Based on 11 official weather stations Shrubs, such as big sagebrush, rubber representing a cross-section of the silty It should also be noted that this rabbitbrush, green rabbitbrush, and upland area in which dryland summer- province, especially the ancient lake broom snakeweed are prominent fallow wheat farming is practiced, the basin portion, is noted for dense fog in throughout the lake basin area on deep average annual precipitation there is winter. This is a source of precipitation sandy soils, on sandy soils overlying 12.2 inches. Of this, 33% falls during that is not represented in weather- buried sedimentary deposits, and on the growing season of dryland agricul- station data, yet likely it has a signifi- shallow silty soils overlying the

Columbia Basin Ecological Province 31 sedimentary lakeshore terrace. Broom Table 12. Generalized Moisture Equivalent (Field Capacity) snakeweed was called matchweed by of Various Soil Textures. local old-timers because sheepherders Moisture wintering flocks on this "desert range" equivalent would crumple a handful of the resin- Texture (% of dry soil) Incremental increase ous shrub as tinder to start a fire. Coarse sand 4.6 Fine sand 7.6 65%greater than coarse sand The 1937 Western Range Survey of Loamy sand no data Possibly 50 to60%greater than fine sand USDI Grazing Service District 7, which extended more or less from Arlington Sandy loam 15.5 104%greater than finesand,but possibly only east to the Stanfield area and from the about40%greater than loamy sand Columbia River south to about the Loam 18.9 22%greater than sandy loam present southern boundary of the Silt loam 24.4 29%greater than loam Bombing Range, mapped extensive Clay loam 32.4 33%greater than silt loam areas of bitterbrush. Clay 38.2 18%greater than clay loam This federal grazing district was, at that time, used primarily to winter sheep Sandy soils actually retain water at soil textures in this sandy lake basin and cattle. Subsequent soil and site depths for longer than one might expect was made during the 1950s or 1960s.38 studies reveal that bitterbrush grows in because sand itself acts as a mulch that Auger holes at most section corners and this area on relatively deep sands and protects deep soil moisture from quarter-corners provided a uniform grid on stabilized sand dunes. In this loca- sampling in an area about 4 miles from tion and climate, bitterbrush does not excessive evaporation and desiccation. Capillary movement of water upward is east to west and 2 miles from north to grow on sites where the sandy surface less among coarse soil particles than south. The area had sporadic stands of soil overlying sedimentary deposits is among fine soil particles. vigorous bitterbrush, some 30 to 40 relatively thin nor on sites where the sample plots. Essentially all plots with surface soil is loamy or silty. This Early soil and site studies in this basin soil described as loamy sand or fine suggests a soil-moisture relationship. revealed moist to wet sand below about sand produced bitterbrush. In virtually 6 feet deep in July and August. How- The presence of vigorous bitterbrush on all locations where soil was described ever, the possibility that the moisture sandy soils in this location under a cli- as sandy loam there was no bitterbrush. was wicked up from an underground mate of less than 9 inches annual preci- aquifer is not improbable in those days The phenomenon of loamy sand plots pitation, over 60% of which falls in before irrigation from wells lowered with no bitterbrush suggests a wildfire winter, is indeed an ecological oddity the water table. Bitterbrush is a very pattern. The major habitat for bitter- given the normal habitat of bitterbrush deep-rooted plant once established, and brush in this lake basin portion of in Oregon. Ecological site studies in it can utilize such deep soil moisture. Columbia Basin Province are the Oregon over many years indicate that Quincy loamy fine sand and Koehler bitterbrush requires effective moisture The water-holding capacity of various loamy sand soil series. of 12 inches annual precipitation or soil textures (Table 12) indicates there more.' In the case of this lake basin, is a greater increment in moisture equi- The growing season of bitterbrush in some combination of ecological factors valent (field capacity) between several the lake basin is very much earlier than obviously is producing the required sandy-soil textures than between loamy any other bitterbrush site in eastern effective environment. Possible factors soils or soils of finer texture. 19,20 Oregon. Here, bitterbrush flowers at might include the region's fog patterns least 30 days earlier than in other and soil characteristics. An interesting factor in soil-plant rela- locations where it is common. That tionships is seen in the incremental indicates that the annual growth cycle This basin is noted for dense fog in increases in field capacity-such as the of bitterbrush in the basin has adapted winter which might augment precipita- ability of the soil profile to retain water,to begin and end while adequate soil tion records significantly because plant from coarse sand to fine sand and likelymoisture is available. foliage intercepts fog moisture and on to loamy sand-and the decreasing directs it into the soil profile. Actual increment between loamy sand and The herbaceous vegetation on these annual precipitation may exceed 9 sandy loam textures. The relationship sandy sites is dominated by needle-and- inches in some years. Sandy soils between the incremental increase of thread, Indian ricegrass, Sandberg blue- characteristically absorb water readily; field capacity in various sandy textures grass, and varying amounts of Colum- a high percentage of water absorbed is and the occurrence of bitterbrush in this bia milkvetch, wormwood, pteryxia, readily available to plants; and sandy basin is not clear. Gorman lomatium, and Carey balsam- absorbed water penetrates deeper in root. Cheatgrass is a strong winter sandy soil during a given period than in However, a cursory study of relation- annual which forms rosettes 3 to 6 soils of finer texture. ships between bitterbrush stands and inches in diameter over the the winter

32 Columbia Basin Ecological Province and provides excellent spring forage forin Oregon. It is a shrub-grassland in sites in this province in southern Uma- various classes of grazing animals. which big sagebrush, gray rabbitbrush, tilla, Morrow, Gilliam, and Sherman These sandy sites also are well known and broom snakeweed constitute slight-counties on which native vegetation as nesting habitat for curlews. ly more than 10% canopy cover. Blue- was in high ecological status, the bunch wheatgrass and Sandberg blue- natural vegetation of silty uplands in Herbaceous vegetation on stabilized grass strongly dominate the total cover; Columbia Basin Province in Oregon is sand dunes is dominated by Indian perennial forbs, such as yarrow, snow a natural grassland, i.e., less than 10% ricegrass, yellow wildrye, Sandberg buckwheat, woollypod loco, and spread- canopy cover of shrubs (Fig. 16). bluegrass, squirreltail, and a variety of ing phlox are sparse in the canopy perennial forbs such as buckwheat, Data from these 171 recordings show cover. A good example of this site in Gorman lomatium, wormwood, that low gray rabbitbrush was on 87% reasonably natural ecological status is pteryxia, scurfpea, yellow spiderflower, of the plots but in very minor amounts. The Nature Conservancy's Boardman veiny dock, and pricklypear. In contrast, big sagebrush was recorded Research Natural Area in the southeast on only 29% of the plots and only in Around the southern perimeter of the corner of the Boardman Bombing Range. minor amounts. It is typical of range- lake basin, the natural plant community lands throughout the silty uplands of on the silty lake terrace site is one of Based on 171 recordings representing this province in Oregon to have low the simplest natural plant communities examples of eight major ecological gray rabbitbrush and broom snake- weed, rather than big sagebrush, as the shrub component of native plant com- Table 13.Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends munities in deteriorated ecological in Columbia Basin Ecological Province, Oregon. status. Natural revegetation of aban- Station and doned croplands in this province results length of record Elevation Average date Average date in gray rabbitbrush as the primary (years) (feet) growthbegins* growthends* shrub component. Other shrubs that are Area in which farming usually requires irrigation sparse in examples of high-ecological- Gilliam County status plant communities include rose, Arlington Airport 20 890 February 20 May 20 gray horsebrush, and green rabbitbrush. Blaylock 17 237 February 18 May 27 Obviously, the question of fire arises in Morrow County discussions of whether these plant com- Ella 9 830 February 25 May 13 munities are natural grasslands. Fire Umatilla County can temporarily eliminate big sage- Echo 19 601 February 20 May 25 brush and may even aggravate growth Hermiston 22 451 February 25 May 16 of gray rabbitbrush. However, the area Umatilla 21 285 February 22 May 11 covered by the recordings is extensive, Area of dryland summer-fallow farming so it is not reasonable to assume that all Gilliam County examples of high ecological status had Condon 21 2,880 March 15 July 5 uniform and comparable fire histories Mikkalo 7 1,500 March 1 May 31 and that an original sagebrush cover Morrow County had been uniformly and permanently Heppner 22 1,950 March 1 June 22 altered by fire over the entire area. Sherman County Based on ecological site studies, the Grass Valley 15 2,381 March 7 June 26 natural shrub pattern on silty upland Kent 21 2,707 March 15 June 22 ranges in Columbia Basin Province of Moro 22 1,858 March 7 June 22 Oregon changes from east to west. East Wasco 22 1,270 March 1 June 17 of the southwest corner of Morrow Umatilla County County, big sagebrush is minimal, if Milton-Freewater 20 1,056 February 22 June 22 present at all, in native plant communi- Pendleton ties in high ecological status. Big sage- Roundup Park 40 1,070 February 22 June 21 brush is not a prominent shrub even Pilot Rock 18 1,817 March 26 June 13 under deteriorated ecological status. Wasco County However, in the vicinity of southeast- Dufur 20 1,250 March 1 June 21 ern Gilliam County and west into * The average date vegetation growth begins on native perennial bunchgrasses is southern Sherman and Wasco counties, approximately the date average daily temperatures reach 39 to 40°F. Average date the likelihood of big sagebrush in- growth ends is considered to be when available soil moisture is depleted. Interpreta- creases somewhat, especially under tions are based on data in Johnsgard.'7 deteriorated ecological status. Still,

Columbia Basin Ecological Province 33 shrubs collectively usually do not makecommunities in high ecological status vegetation is dominated by Sandberg up 10% canopy cover on silty upland on silty aeolian Columbia Basin sites, bluegrass and stiff sagebrush, i.e., a ranges in that portion of Columbia such as near Shaniko, generally do not shrub-grassland. Some areas, however, Basin Province. support a 10% canopy cover of shrubs. have no stiff sagebrush although the This is in spite of the likelihood that soil and other components of the plant Several broad ecological factors are native vegetation around Shaniko was community remain the same. related to this phenomenon. decimated in early 1900s when Shaniko Overall, the natural plant communities First, the reason big sagebrush is mini- was the largest inland shipping center mal, if present at all, east of Gilliam for wool in the United States. of silty upland sites throughout the County may be that Blue Mountain Columbia Basin Province of Oregon Two reasonable conclusions are that the Province native plant communities consist primarily of bluebunch wheat- natural native vegetation on upland form a buffer zone between that portion grass, Sandberg bluegrass, Idaho silty aeolian soils of Columbia Basin of the Columbia Basin and the John fescue, and a wide variety of perennial Province in Oregon was not a shrub- Day Province to the south. forbs. Idaho fescue is absent on the grassland, and that big sagebrush is not most droughty sites, such as south Big sagebrush is a prominent compo- a vigorous component of deteriorated exposures, but it strongly dominates the nent of the natural shrub-grasslands plant communities, such as those in plant community on more moist sites that typify the John Day Province. Blue John Day Province. such as steep north exposures. Mountain native plant communities have evolved under very favorable soil Specimens of big sagebrush that look The cultivar 'Sherman' big bluegrass very old are in western Columbia Basin was originally selected from a grass- and climate conditions, and a wide variety of other shrubs typify this prov- Province. They are almost exclusively land site near Moro in Sherman County. ince. For this reason, big sagebrush has along drainageway bottoms in the Des- Beardless bluebunch wheatgrass, from not been able to encroach north throughchutes and John Day river canyons and which the cultivar `Whitmar' was their tributaries. the vigorous Blue Mountain plant com- developed, has been recorded in the munities. This explanation is supported silty-soil site west of Boardman and In this part of the province, these drain- north of the sandy-soil area. However, by the fact that, throughout Blue Moun-ageway bottoms consist of deep, very tain Province, big sagebrush is not a the type location from which Whitmar gravelly and stony colluvial materials was selected is in Whitman County, prominent shrub no matter what the originating from nearby basalt rimrocks Washington. plant community's ecological status. and canyon walls. These kinds of soils provide ideal sites for big sagebrush. Second, west of Kinzua, the western- Management Implications most extent of Blue Mountain Prov- In the same area, where silty alluvium Columbia Basin Province in ince, a huge topographic saddle extendsfrom upland silty soils has accumulated Oregon includes irrigated agriculture from Kinzua west about 50 miles to the as meadows in drainages, natural vege- on bottomlands along major drainages Mutton Mountains in the northeast tation consists of basin wildrye and such as Rock Creek in Gilliam County; corner of Warm Springs Indian Reser- associated meadow species, depending Willow and Butter creeks in Morrow vation. The Deschutes and John Day on degree and duration of soil moisture.County; and Birch and McKay creeks rivers flow north through this saddle; and Umatilla River in Umatilla County. however, the rivers' tributaries gener- It seems reasonable to assume that the These sources of irrigation water are ally are entirely within John Day or incidence of big sagebrush in the west- fairly reliable because they are renewed Columbia Basin province. The demar- ern part of the province likely is related by runoff from prominent watersheds. cation line between the two provinces to the avenues for encroachment However, water use likely will be more essentially is the division between provided over time by the Deschutes strictly controlled under fish-habitat watersheds draining north into Colum- and John Day river canyons and their and similar regional programs. These bia Basin from those draining south dendritic tributaries, which have lands are used primarily to produce into John Day Province. suitably deep, coarse, colluvial soils. livestock forages. Along this huge saddle, the Columbia In the Columbia Basin Province of Some farmers use sprinkler irrigation Basin and John Day provinces are con- Oregon, the silty upland ranges include from wells in the vicinity of Athena to tiguous at a relatively low elevation of a ecological site locally called scab- produce wheat, peas, alfalfa, and other 3,000 to 3,500 feet. Presumably, this land. It occurs along the outer edges of crops. Irrigation near Milton-Freewater offers less resistance to encroachment ridgetops and on sloping areas in minor is primarily a gravity-flow system for of vigorous shrubs, such as big sage- drainages between about 1,000 and orchards and a variety of food crops. brush, from John Day Province into 3,500 feet elevation. Slopes vary from Boardman-area irrigation involves both Columbia Basin Province, unlike the 2 to 20%. The soil of this site is very gravity-flow systems from water stored situation in the Blue Mountain buffer stony loam and is very shallow (7 to 10 in Cold Springs Reservoir and pumping zone. Nevertheless, native plant inches) over basalt bedrock. Natural from wells and the Columbia River;

34 Columbia Basin Ecological Province Table 14. Major Ecological Sites in Columbia Basin Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Natural grassland Arid rolling hills Semimoist bottom (less than 10% Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass Basin wildrye, bluebunch wheatgrass, canopy cover Rolling hills a Idaho fescue of shrubs) Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Sandberg Moist bottom bluegrass Basin wildrye, sod bluegrasses Droughty south exposure Semiwet bottom Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass Redtop, tufted hairgrass, Kentucky South exposure bluegrass Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass, Alkaline bottom Idaho fescue Basin wildrye, saltgrass Sandy north exposure Needlegrass, big bluegrass, Sandberg bluegrass Droughty north exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Sandberg bluegrass North exposure Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass Scabland a Sandberg bluegrass/snow buckwheat, phlox

Shrub-grassland Scabland a Moist sodic bottom (10% or more Sandberg bluegrass/stiff sagebrush Basin wildrye, cordgrass, saltgrass/ greasewood canopy cover Sand dune of shrubs) Indian ricegrass/desert parsley/bitterbrush, big sagebrush Sand terrace Needle-and-thread, Indian ricegrass/bitterbrush, big sagebrush Silty terrace Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass/big sagebrush Deciduous tree River bottom (5% or more Forbs/tall shrubs/cottonwoods canopy cover of mature trees) a Biscuit scabland is a mapping unit that represents a complex of rolling hills ecological site (the biscuits) and scabland ecological site, in which the biscuits occupy 5% or more of the area in the mapping unit. If biscuits cover less than 5%, the site shouldbe considered scabland.

production is of livestock forages, erodible when exposed and dry. If it rotation with special effort to minimize grains, and food crops. State regula- becomes necessary to take some lands erosion, especially in fallow years. tions limit use of underground water in out of irrigation due to limited water, it Practices such as stubble mulch, cross- order to maintain aquifers. Other water will be very difficult to revegetate with slope farming, diversions, terraces, sources are likely to come under stricterspecies that will establish and persist in contour strip cropping, and others have control because of regional fish habitat the and climate and shifting sandy been tried with mixed success primarily programs. soils. Massive sand dunes easily could because these practices often require inundate existing urban and rural special equipment and more time and Wind erosion is a potential problem in homes and businesses and cover labor, which cuts net income. the area of irrigated sandy soils if the otherwise stable agricultural lands. water supply diminishes significantly. The silty upland ranges of Columbia Cultivation has destroyed all native From Pilot Rock west, arable soils are Basin Province in Oregon are not well vegetation, so these soils are extremely under a summer-fallow wheat cropping suited for year-long livestock grazing

Columbia Basin Ecological Province 35 because, generally speaking, their soils. The soil representing the aeolian However, small remnants of this summer forage is not good quality. silty uplands to the east of the lake lakeshore terrace can be found about basin is Ritzville silt loam 75 4 miles up the Deschutes River from A well-balanced ranch in this area Highway 84, which indicates that this includes irrigated land for producing From about 1 mile south of Echo, the terrace may have been between Willow winter feeds, some higher-elevation line follows southwest about 2 miles Creek and the Deschutes River while summer rangelands which are usually south of and nearly parallel to the the ancient lake was intact. Conceiv- in Blue Mountain Province, and lower- highway between Echo and Highway ably, when the ice jam at The Dalles elevation rangelands in Columbia Basin207 near Butter Creek. The line veers broke, water in the lake rushing down Province for spring, late autumn, and, north to cross Butter Creek at about the the Columbia Gorge could have to some extent, winter grazing. junction of Echo Road and Highway scoured out all but remnants of the silty 207 and then runs west. The ancient lakeshore terraces west of lakeshore terrace lying west of this Butter Creek Junction on Highway 207 The line between the ancient lake basin remaining segment in northeastern are covered by a mantle of silty aeolian and the deep aeolian silty soil uplands Gilliam County. soil. Where the overlay is relatively to the south continues west to enter thin, the underlying laminated calcare- Morrow County in the middle of Town- Province Demarcation ous lakeshore terrace is close enough to ship 3N R27E. Then it goes southwest the surface to resist water and root to near Sand Hollow where it turns Columbia - Palouse Demarcation penetration, making these soils gener- southeast to cross Highway 207 about The line of demarcation between ally unsuited for dryland agriculture. 2 miles west of Butter Creek Junction. Columbia Basin and Palouse provinces From this point west, the ancient lake- begins at the Oregon-Washington Examples of abandoned cropland are shore terrace that forms the perimeter border about 5 miles northwest of on the lakeshore terrace along the lake's of the lake basin is covered by a mantle Milton-Freewater in Umatilla County. southern perimeter. Some of these of silty aeolian soil that includes War- From that point the line runs southwest, abandoned croplands were later seeded den, Ellisforde, and Sagemoor soils.85 passing just east of Milton-Freewater. to crested wheatgrass in an attempt to replace the destroyed native forage. From the vicinity of Butter Creek About 2 miles south of Milton- However, the seedings were largely Junction, the line goes west across Freewater the line turns west to about disappointing or totally unsuccessful, at Sand Hollow to upper Juniper Canyon 3 miles north of Helix where it abruptly least partly because the ancient lake- where it follows the canyon northwest veers south across Wildhorse Creek to shore terrace is not suited to cultivation to near the south boundary of the the Umatilla River about 1.5 miles or reseeding, even though it is a silty bombing range. From there it runs west northeast of Mission. It follows on the soil and easily worked. Management- at about 900 feet elevation along the north side of the river east upstream to or rather, mismanagement-of the upper level of the lakeshore terrace to about Cayuse where the Columbia grass seedings likely is also a factor in Cecil, where it crosses Willow Creek Basin, Palouse, and Blue Mountain the adverse results. and enters Gilliam County. provinces join.

The traversed from east to The demarcation line from Milton- Ancient Lake Basin west along the southern edge of this Freewater to near Mission is the soil Demarcation ancient lakeshore terrace on the way to line between Walla Walla silt loam The eastern line of demarcation Cecil on Willow Creek. Well Spring series, in Columbia Basin Province, between the ancient lake basin and and the nearby historic site of a skir- and Walla Walla silt loam, high- aeolian silty uplands in Columbia Basinmish with Indians are on the lakeshore precipitation phase, which is in Palouse Province begins at the Columbia River terrace. Province.75 near the Oregon-Washington border. It meanders south and up Juniper Canyon From the vicinity of Cecil, where the to near where the north and south forks demarcation line of the ancient lake Columbia-Blue Mountain Demarcation of Juniper Canyon merge. From there basin crosses into Gilliam County, the the line goes southwesterly to about 5 line runs west to Fourmile Canyon. It The line of demarcation between miles east of Cold Springs Reservoir follows the east canyon rim north and Columbia Basin and Blue Mountain and then generally south to cross then along the Eightmile Canyon to provinces meanders southwest from Umatilla River about 3 miles southeast cross Willow Creek at Rhea.78 This area near Cayuse along the mountain of Echo. of Warden soil in Gilliam County is the footslopes at about 2,000 feet elevation farthest west in the Columbia Basin to south of Pilot Rock. It continues In this area, the ancient lakeshore Province in Oregon that a sizable area southwesterly up Owens Creek to cross terrace comprises the substrata beneath of the calcareous laminated silty lake- Highway 395 about 8 miles south of overlying soils which are the Sagehill shore terrace exists under a thin mantle Nye Junction, at an elevation of about fine sandy loam and Ellisforde silt loamof silty aeolian materials. 3,500 feet, and continues west across

36 Columbia Basin Ecological Province North Fork Butter Creek to the top of Day River from Gilliam County into From this point, the line of demarcation Franklin Hill. It lies just south of Lena Wasco County at the Wasco-Sherman between Columbia Basin and The on South Fork Butter Creek and travels county line on the river. The John Day Dalles provinces veers north to pass southwesterly at about 3,500 feet eleva-River canyon north of this point is in just east of Pine Grove, which is in The tion, passing about 6 miles southeast of Columbia Basin Province; south, it is inDalles Province, and north in the Heppner and on toward Hardman.66 John Day Province. vicinity of Smock Prairie School and Wamic, both of which also are in The From Hardman vicinity, the line runs From this point the line of demarcation Dalles Province. From east of Wamic, west to cross into Gilliam County and meanders southwest along the west- the line goes north. In this vicinity, the then southwest to just north of Lone- side breaks of John Day River canyon lower reaches of White River canyon, rock, which is in an isolated segment ofto about 2 miles north of Antelope and which heads near Mt. Hood, create a John Day Province in southeast Gilliam continues southwest along the north- narrow strip of The Dalles Province County.78 side breaks of Antelope Creek. About extending into Columbia Basin 2 miles north of Antelope, a roadcut on Province southwest of Tygh Valley. About 1 mile west of Lonerock, the lineHighway 218 displays the Columbia is between Columbia Basin and Blue Basin basalt cap and silty aeolian soil Tygh Valley itself is a small island of Mountain provinces for about 3 miles; overlying the light-color sedimentary John Day Province which extends then, near the old Lost Valley School materials of the John Day Province. about 10 miles east to west and about road junction, the line is between This is another example of an abrupt 1 mile north to south. The light-color Columbia Basin to the north and John line of demarcation that can be exam- clayey ancient sediments (Simas and Day Province to the south. In this ined closely and easily. Tub soils) that typify John Day Prov- vicinity, the line is a belt several miles ince are obvious in this location. North wide in which differentiating features From the vicinity of Kinzua westward, of Tygh Valley, Tygh Ridge and Post- of Blue Mountain, Columbia Basin, the demarcation line is represented by age Stamp Lookout are in Columbia and John Day provinces intermingle. the soils line between Condon and Basin Province. The mapped line is a judgment call.78 9° Bakeoven soils in Columbia Basin Province and Simas and Tub soils in John Day Province.78.86, 9° Columbia -The Dalles Columbia -John Day Demarcation Demarcation About 3 miles northwest of The line of demarcation crosses High- Where the road to Little Badger Kinzua, which is in Blue Mountain way 97 in Cow Canyon about 1 mile Forest Camp crosses Tygh Creek about Province, the line of demarcation north of the confluence of Antelope and3 miles northwest of its junction with between Columbia River and John Day Trout creeks. From there it goes south- Highway 197, the line of demarcation provinces goes westerly at about 4,000 west into Jefferson County to encom- between Columbia Basin and The feet elevation in the vicinity of Cum- pass the small plateau area about 2 Dalles provinces winds north to Dufur, mings Pass and across Butte Creek miles west of Willowdale.83 which is barely inside Columbia Basin about 3 miles northwest of Fossil, Province. The line then follows north along the which is in John Day Province. From east-side rimrocks of Deschutes River From Dufur, the line travels toward The that point, it runs southerly, westerly, canyon to the railroad siding Nena, Dalles. However, the line passes about and then north at about 4,000 feet where it crosses to the west side of 2 miles east of The Dalles and ends at elevation to encompass a large rocky Deschutes River. The Deschutes River the Columbia River near the mouth of plateau that juts south into Wheeler canyon north from Nena is in ColumbiaFifteenmile Creek and The Dalles dam. County. The plateau is in Columbia Basin Province; south, it is in John Day The city of The Dalles is in The Dalles Basin Province. Province. Nena railroad siding is about Province. The plateau's southwest corner, where 7 miles upriver from Maupin. The line of demarcation between it overlooks John Day Province in the Columbia Basin and The Dalles prov- vicinity of Clarno, is a good place to From Nena, the line of demarcation inces is based on soil lines between see a very abrupt province boundary. runs southwest up the ridge on the west Condon, Walla Walla, Wapinitia, and The view from below, near Clarno, side of Deschutes River to the top of Maupin soil series, which represent shows the plateau above the basalt rim, the divide, which used to be the north Columbia Basin Province in this vici- which is Columbia Basin Province, and boundary of Warm Springs Indian nity, and Frailey, Wamic, and Skyline the exposed, light-color tuffaceous and Reservation. Mutton Mountains are in soil series, which are on the eastern sedimentary deposits below the rim John Day Province. The line follows footslopes of the Cascade Mountains which are typical of John Day Prov- the ridgetop northwest to the road and represent The Dalles Province.86 ince. between Wapinitia and Simnasho. It is near this ridgetop pass on the road that The line between Columbia Basin and Columbia Basin, John Day, and The John Day provinces crosses the John Dalles provinces adjoin.

Columbia Basin Ecological Province 37 MMU

-jr

If

w ...... High Desert Ecological Province

Location mediate hills, buttes, and mountains are ceous vegetation resembles the and High Desert Ecological Province insteep to very steep. Ecological sites portion of Mazama Province, which is south-central Oregon is the northern- range from and low-lying terraces to typified by bluebunch wheatgrass and most segment of the huge western subalpine mountain tops and from lake- Idaho fescue. Where less than 8 to 10 Great Basin that extends south into beds that are nearly always dry to per- inches of pumice mantle are over and east into west Texas .14 In manent wetlands and marshes (Fig. 17).buried soil, herbaceous vegetation Oregon, the province covers about 7.8 resembles the High Desert Province's, This is the part of Oregon that appar- million acres, mainly in Lake and Har- which is typified by bluebunch wheat- ently was largely inundated by ancient ney counties but with small portions in grass and Thurber needlegrass.32 lakes. Evidence of extensive inundation Malheur, Deschutes, and Crook coun- exists in exposed shoreline terraces, ties. It extends south into northwestern Soils such as on the highway roadcut north- Washoe County, California and north- Soils in the terraces and basins of west of the Horse Ranch near Fort western Humboldt County, . High Desert Province were formed Rock, and in wave-action beachlines on from parent materials mainly through uplands, such as southeast of Summer water action. They range from deep Lake and the east side of Warner Val- Description loam to deep clayey soils in basins, and ley. These shoreline terraces are at High Desert Province is character- from deep sandy to shallow clayey soils about 4,500 feet elevation (Fig. 18). ized by innumerable large and small on terraces and fans where weak to closed basins surrounded by extensive Beachlines and shoreline terraces are strong hardpans are common. On some terraces formed in ancient lakes. Inter- not in a continuous band around the terraces and fans, the soil surface may spersed in this pattern of closed basins perimeter of this province because they be extremely stony, which might be and terraces are low basaltic ridges, have been superseded by other geologicrelated to thin surface flows of basalt hilly uplands, isolated buttes such as formations in various locations. For that have fractured or to colluvial Glass, Paiute, and Beattys; mountains example, in the area from Fort Rock action. These soils may be strongly such as St. Patrick, Wagontire, and north to Brothers, the ancient shoreline alkaline, calcareous, or neutral. An Warner; and block-faulted igneous terrace is obscured by a mantle of pum- upland terrace formation occurs in the formations such as Steens Mountain, ice and/or lava flows from Mazama, vicinity of some igneous mountains Abert Rim, and Poker Jim Ridge. Ele- Paulina, and probably other volcanoes. such as . The sloping vations range from 4,030 feet at HarneyIn this area, the boundary between upland terrace landform represents an Lake to 9,670 feet on Steens Mountain. High Desert and Mazama provinces is aoutflow of igneous tuffaceous material (Elevations are from USGS 1:250,000 belt rather than a distinct line. which characteristically weathers into topographic maps.) dense clay. Field observations indicate that, where The terrace and basin portion of the the pumice mantle is more than 8 to 10 Usually, these upland clayey terraces province is flat to gently sloping; inter- inches thick over buried soils, herba- have a surface cover of basalt stones

38 High Desert Ecological Province but soil beneath surface stones is not before 1914 when drought began. This deviation from general soil maps stony. This suggests that a thin layer of Extensive stands of gray rabbitbrush in for other Oregon counties and river basalt was deposited on the surface after this area indicate previously farmed basins, where associations of soil series tuffaceous underlying material had lands. were mapped, hinders using soil data to formed the upland terrace landform. help clarify ecological differences The upland clayey terraces usually Along the north and east boundary of between provinces. support a stand of low sagebrush. High Desert Province in Oregon, which is mainly in Harney and Malheur Soils developed on basaltic uplands counties,available soil data do not Climate generally are moderately deep to very suffice to produce groups of soil series High Desert Province in Oregon is shallow and stony or gravelly, and they to illustrate the soils contrasts that are uniformly dry as illustrated by data may be extremely rocky. They are known to exist between High Desert from 16 official weather stations." All generally slightly acidic in surface Province and contiguous provinces- stations, except for Hart Mountain layers to slightly alkaline in the subsoil. John Day, SnakeRiver,and Humboldt. Antelope Refuge, are in or near the This is because available soil maps of bottom of closed basins between 4,100 Soils in the vicinity of Christmas Valley Harney and Malheur counties show and 4,500 feet elevation. and Fort Rock Valley have sandy sur- reconnaissance mapping units on face layers which likely are related to nonfarmed lands that merely represent Average annual precipitation for the the nearby, upwind, tuffaceous ancient different kinds ofsoil,e.g., basins/ province is about 10 inches. The devia- lakeshore terraces. Areas of deep sands, plains,shallow/not shallow, well- tion ranges from 8 inches at Plush to which are probably dunes formed over drained/less well drained, loamy/ about 12 inches at Diamond and French- time, are common. The northwest part clayey. Thedrainage basin surveys glen, which are in the vicinity of Steens of High Desert Province was settled were made primarily to identify areas Mountain. A precipitation map53 shows and dry farmed in about 1910. How- that might be suitable for irrigation, if several sizable basins in the province ever, settlement quickly dwindled feasible.72' 73, 92, 94 that receive less than 10 inches annu-

Table 15. Climatic Data for High Desert Ecological Province, Oregon." Station and Precipitation Average maximum and minimum length of record Elevation Annual Oct.-March April-June temperatures (°F) (years) (feet) (inches) (%) (%) January April-June Harney County Blitzen 17 4,300 8.6 57 27 38.8-10.8 69.6-31.6 Burns29 4,140 10.1 68 23 35.5-12.2 68.7-38.8 Diamond 11 4,130 12.2 51 36 40.3-17.9 66.2-34.2 Frenchglen 5 4,100 12.2 52 37 40.6-18.5 71.2-37.8 Harney Expt. Sta. 22 4,139 9.6 68 24 32.8-9.6 68.3-34.8 Northern Great Basin Expt. Sta. 19 4,675 11.8 58 30 35.4-14.9 65.1-35.0 Sod House 15 4,103 9.2 60 28 36.2-14.5 68.0-37.2 Lake County Cliff a 10 4,300 9.1 49 34 37.9-14.3 65.8-28.6 Fremontb 19 4,300 10.2 65 26 38.3-13.6 66.2-29.2 Hart Mountain 13 5,900 10.2 50 38 36.7-16.1 61.4-33.6 Lake a 15 4,316 8.3 48 37 40.0-14.1 67.7-32.1 Paisley 19 4,300 9.9 61 29 39.4-19.8 68.0-38.7 Plush 13 4,385 8.0 50 38 40.0-19.2 67.8-38.9 Silver Lake 26 4,476 9.9 59 27 39.3-16.9 66.5-31.6 The Poplars 6 4,316 9.7 59 33 35.7-8.6 67.5-31.9 Valley Falls 20 4,250 11.9 61 30 40.1-18.8 71.3-35.1 County Averages Harney 10.5 59 29 37.1-14.1 68.2-35.6 Lake 9.7 56 32 38.6-15.7 66.9-33.3

Province Average 10.1 58 31 37.9-14.9 67.6-34.5

No weather stations in High Desert Province in Deschutes, Crook, or Malheur counties. a In Christmas Lake Valley b Near Horse Ranch

High Desert Ecological Province 39 ally, a few prominent uplands that re- Vegetation The 1936 Forest Type Map of Oregon ceive about 15 inches annually, about According to the 1936 Forest Type also shows scattered stands of hard- 25 inches annually on top of Hart Map of Oregon,54 stands of western woods, probably aspen, in drainages Mountain, and over 50 inches annually juniper were at that time on upland and on north and northwest slopes of on top of Steens Mountain. In some areas scattered across High Desert Steens Mountain; collectively the instances, these differences exist Province in Oregon. stands covered an estimated 5,000 acres within a few air miles of each other. in 1936. Similar stands of aspen on In the area north and northwest of Hart Mountain are too small and High Desert Province in Oregon also Silver Lake community, juniper stands scattered to be shown on the 1936 map. is uniformly cold. Average maximum collectively covered an estimated and minimum temperatures during the 18,000 acres in 1936. From the vicinity The huge number of closed basins that normal growing season, April through of Cougar Mountain, about 20 air miles typify High Desert Province in Oregon June, are about 68 and 35°F respec- north of Silver Lake, scattered juniper include perpetually dry lakebeds, lake- tively. Frosts can come any week of stands existed eastward nearly to beds that are inundated infrequently the year. The relatively low tempera- Wagontire Mountain and collectively and for short periods, perpetual lakes tures during the growing season effec- covered an estimated 185,000 acres in that fluctuate in size over time, and tively change the net effective environ- 1936. On the western and northern wetlands and marshes that are reason- ment on a site 5 which, in turn, signifi- slopes of Steens Mountain, an esti- ably perpetual. Vegetation on the cantly influences the kinds of species mated 80,000 acres of scattered juniper bottomlands varies according to the that naturally are in the plant commu- stands existed in 1936. frequency, depth, and duration of nity as well as the amount of herba- inundation. ceous growth produced. Natural stands of western juniper in High Desert Province in Oregon For example, perpetually dry lakebeds Cold springs mean minimum tempera- usually are associated with rocky or usually are vegetated with drought- tures can offset or minimize benefits very stony uplands, lava flows, and tolerant upland species such as big derived from favorable moisture con- ridges where understory vegetation, sagebrushes, rabbitbrushes, needle- ditions. When monitoring responses to when burning, is insufficient to help grasses, ricegrasses, and squirreltail. climate and/or resource management create crown fires. In the vicinity of Lakebeds that are inundated infre- strategies, mean minimum tempera- Christmas Lake Valley, some natural quently and for short periods vary from tures in spring are especially signifi- juniper stands are on areas of moder- being essentially barren-playas-to cant for evaluating results. ately deep sands. Natural stands of those that grow such plant species as juniper are characterized by the pres- silver sagebrush, mat muhly, stream- Vegetation on top of large mountains bank wheatgrass, basin wildrye, and a in High Desert Province in Oregon ence of very old trees and of uneven- age classes. variety of forbs. reflects the frigid temperatures and fierce winds there. For example, sage- An ecological oddity, the Lost Forest, is Larger perpetual lakes that fluctuate in brush plants on top of Hart Mountain northeast of Christmas Lake Valley. In size over time include Silver, Summer, have hedged canopy tops that slant up 1936 it covered an estimated 2,500 and Abert in Lake County and Silver, from west to east, like a roof, away acres and consisted of huge old-growth Harney, and Malheur in Harney Coun- from prevailing westerly winds. Fur- ponderosa pine with some juniper ty. They also may vary over time from thermore, rough fescue, which is native growing on sandy soils at about 4,500 being essentially barren to being per- to more northern latitudes (primarily feet elevation. The pine has been petually vegetated by such plants as north of 47°N latitude in eastern partially harvested by a BLM timber sedges, rushes, squirreltail, rabbit- Washington, in western Montana, and sale. The isolated stand lies about 25 airbrushes, greasewood, and a wide variety in British Columbia and Alberta) grows miles east of the nearest pine forest, of forbs, all of which are affected by on both Hart and Steens mountains at which is in Mazama Province. soil chemistry. about 7,000 feet elevation. This sug- gests the climatic conditions there may Another isolated 60-acre grove of A good example of how vegetation be comparable to the more northern ponderosa pine is on the Hart Mountain varies according to duration of standing latitudes where rough fescue is a National Antelope Refuge. It is at aboutwater can be seen on a shallow lakebed common component of native plant 6,000 feet elevation in a location in southeastern Hart Mountain Refuge. communities.' known as Blue Sky on the east slopes On this lakebed were at least four of Warner Peak near Post Meadows, distinct bands of vegetation between Throughout High Desert Province, south of the refuge headquarters. climate varies widely from locality to the deepest area and the shoreline. The locality at any given time, both season- Specimens of white fir, which grow in area of longest inundation was veg- ally and from year to year, even though protected spots at high elevations, are tated primarily by spikesedge. The next in general it is a uniformly dry climate rare in High Desert Province in band, where inundation was of shorter with extremes of cold and hot. Oregon. duration, was vegetated by wedgeleaf

40 High Desert Ecological Province Table 16. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends north of Silver Lake community, in High Desert Ecological Province, Oregon. occupied an estimated 21,000 acres at Station and that time. Soils of the marsh are poorly length of record Elevation Average date Average date drained and clayey. The native vegeta- (years) (feet) growth begins" growth ends* tion probably included tufted hairgrass, Lake County bluegrasses, sedges, and rushes and Cliff 10 4,300 April 1 June 16 was a natural grassland. The marsh is Fremont 19 4,300 April 5 June 30 more or less irrigated and is used for Paisley 19 4,300 March 15 June 15 hay production and pasture. Lake 15 4,385 April 1 June 5 The Poplars 6 4,316 April 4 June 17 Silver Lake, about 5 miles east of Sil- Plush 13 4,385 March 19 May 12 ver Lake community, occupied an esti- Silver Lake 26 4,476 April 4 June 22 mated 9,600 acres in 1971. The entire Hart Mountain 13 5,900 April? July 2 lake was mapped as a playa, indicating Valley Falls 20 4,250 April 7 July 7 that at that time the lake must have Harney County been dry. However, circa 1960s, Silver Sod House 15 4,103 March 22 June 12 Lake was inundated to the tops of Diamond 11 4,130 April 1 July 6 fenceposts between the highway and Harney Expt. Sta. 22 4,139 March 27 June 19 the north boundary of the lakebed, Burns29 4,140 March 18 June 24 which illustrates the wide fluctuation in Frenchglen 5 4,200 March 11 July 2 the degree of inundation over time. Blitzen 17 4,300 April 1 June 11 When the lakebed is partly inundated, it Northern Great Basin is vegetated with plant species such as Expt. Sta. 19 4,675 April 1 July 10 squirreltail in drier areas and sedges * The average date vegetation growth begins on native perennial bunchgrasses is and rushes in moist or wet areas. The approximately the date average daily temperatures reach 39 to 40°F. Average date lakebed is used primarily for pasture; growth ends is considered to be when available soil moisture is depleted. Interpreta- however, portions of it have been tions are based on data in Johnsgard.'7 cultivated and farmed in past years.

Summer Lake in 1971 occupied an esti- dock. The next-driest band was vege- Deep, poorly drained silty and clayey mated 19,000 acres, and the contiguous tated by mat muhly, and the outside, soils on flood plains were mapped on playa occupied an estimated 22,000 driest band on the lakebed was stream- an estimated 188,000 acres. The native acres, none of which even now is vege- bank wheatgrass. The beachridge, vegetation probably consisted of a good tated to any extent. At the north end of formed by soil blowing off the dry lake- stand of mixed meadow grasses, forbs, is a marsh that occupied bed in summer and which was never and shrubs including such species as an estimated 4,500 acres in 1971. This inundated, was vegetated by needle- basin wildrye, streambank wheatgrass, marsh is maintained by water from the grass and green rabbitbrush. All the Cusick bluegrass, sedges, rushes, big Ana River, which originates at a large variations on this single lakebed are sagebrush, and green rabbitbrush. Much spring gushing from the base of Winter related to the frequency, depth, and of this area is currently being used for Rim near Summer Lake community. duration of inundation (Fig. 19). hay production and pasture and is more The marsh is managed as part of the or less irrigated. Deep, poorly drained, Summer Lake State Wildlife Manage- In the Harney County lake basin near strongly alkaline soils on flood plains ment Area. The native vegetation varies Burns, the 1974 General Soil Map of were mapped on an estimated 184,000 from bluegrasses, sedges, and rushes on Harney County 92 shows several kinds acres. The native vegetation probably drier areas to cattails and bulrushes of bottomland associated with the three included such species as saltgrass, around the edges of ponds, some of main sources of water flowing into sedges, rushes, greasewood, and which were built and maintained as part Silver, Harney, and Malheur lakes: rabbitbrushes. of the wildlife management program. Silver Creek, Silvies River, and Donner and Blitzen River. The three lakebeds-Silver, Harney, According to the 1971 General Soil and Malheur-occupied about 2,000 In this system of streams and lakebeds, Map of Lake County, the Chewaucan acres, 27,000 acres, and 28,000 acres, deep well-drained loamy and sandy Marsh, which is fed by Chewaucan respectively, for a total of about 57,000 soils on nearly flat alluvial fans and River, occupied an estimated 42,000 acres in 1974. These lakes are more or flood plains were mapped on an esti- acres between Paisley and Valley Falls less perpetual but fluctuate in size over mated 29,000 acres. The native vege- community. The core of the marsh, an time. tation on the bottomlands probably was estimated 25,000 acres, consists of two a good stand of basin wildrye and other The 1971 General Soil Map of Lake areas of poorly drained silty soils that species. County84shows that Paulina Marsh, in native condition probably produced

High Desert Ecological Province 41 meadow plants such as tufted hairgrass, basin wildrye, and similar alkali- Alkali Lake and North Alkali Lake redtop, sedges, and rushes. tolerant plants. Some of this sodic area which do not produce wetlands. is being farmed under irrigation. The area currently is being managed for The group of lakes collectively known hay and pasture under extensive water- Lake Abert north of Valley Falls com- as in southeast Lake control systems. These two core areas munity occupied an estimated 34,000 County comprises nine major lakes that are separated at The Narrows and acres in 1971. Water is from outlets of vary in size and duration of inundation nearly surrounded by a contiguous belt Chewaucan Marsh and Crooked Creek. over time. The lakebeds and their esti- of loamy, poorly drained, strongly Contiguous to the north end of the lake mated acreages are, from south to north: alkaline soils that occupy an estimated is a 12,000-acre playa. The shoreline of Crump, 7,400 acres; Hart, 5,400 acres; 17,000 acres. In native condition, this Lake Abert is not conducive to Anderson, 500 acres; Swamp, 770 area probably produced greasewood, vegetation. North of Lake Abert are a acres; Flagstaff, 3,200 acres; Lower rabbitbrushes, saltgrass, squirreltail, number of perpetual playas such as (continued on page 44)

Table 17. Major Ecological Sites in High Desert Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Natural grassland Well-drained bottom (less than 10% Basin wildrye, streambank wheatgrass, canopy cover saltgrass of shrubs) Poorly drained bottom Tufted hairgrass, northern mannagrass, sedges Semimarsh 25-75% hydrophytic, 75-25% wetland species Dry mountain meadow Nevada and Leiberg bluegrasses, slender wheatgrass Lakebed Spikesedge/wedgeleaf dock/mat muhly Wet sodic bottom Saltgrass, 10-25% wetland species

Shrub-grassland Arid rolling hills Droughty bottom (10% or more Bluebunch wheatgrass, Thurber needlegrass/ Needlegrasses, Indian ricegrass, canopy cover big sagebrush basin wildrye/big sagebrush of shrubs) Shrubby rolling hills Drylakebed Idaho fescue/bitterbrush, big and low sagebrush Idaho fescue, Thurber needlegrass, High rolling hills Indian ricegrass/big sagebrush Rough and Idaho fescue/mountain and Intermittent lake low sagebrush Streambank wheatgrass, mat muhly/ Stony terrace silver sagebrush Sandberg bluegrass, squirreltail/low sagebrush Moist bottomland fan Gravelly ridgetop Cusick bluegrass, basin wildrye, Idaho fescue, Sandberg bluegrass/low sagebrush streambank wheatgrass/big sagebrush Mahogany rockland Moist sodic bottom Western needlegrass, western melic/curlleaf Basin wildrye, streambank wheatgrass/ mountain-mahogany greasewood, green rabbitbrush Steep south exposure Beachridge Squirreltail, bluebunch wheatgrass/big sagebrush Western needlegrass, basin wildrye/ South exposure green rabbitbrush, greasewood Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue/big and low sagebrush Arid north exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue/bitterbrush, (continued) big sagebrush

42 High Desert Ecological Province Table 17 (cont'd). Major Ecological Sites in High Desert Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Shrub-grassland North exposure (continued) Idaho fescue, western needlegrass/big and low sagebrushes Snowpockets A Western needlegrass, sedge/chokecherry, big sagebrush Snowpockets B Slender wheatgrass, Columbia needlegrass/ bitterbrush/ aspen Snowpockets C Columbia needlegrass, western needlegrass/ snowbrush Semidesert sand hills Indian ricegrass, needlegrasses/big sagebrush, shadscale Shallow sand hills Thurber needlegrass, thickspike wheatgrass/ green rabbitbrush Deep sand hills Idaho fescue, Thurber needlegrass/bitterbrush, big sagebrush Semidesert terrace Bluebunch wheatgrass, Webber ricegrass/hopsage, shadscale Arid loamy terrace Bluebunch wheatgrass, Indian ricegrass, squirreltail/big sagebrush Claypan terrace Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass/ low sagebrush Platy terrace Bluebunch wheatgrass, Thurber needlegrass/ big sagebrush, bitterbrush Mountain swale Basin wildrye, bluegrasses/big sagebrush, green rabbitbrush

Deciduous tree Aspen grove (5% or more Bluegrasses, bearded wheatgrass/aspen canopy cover of trees)

Coniferous tree Juniper rolling hills (5% or more Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue/ canopy cover big sagebrush/juniper of trees) Juniper south exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Thurber needlegrass/ big sagebrush/juniper Juniper sand hills Idaho fescue, Thurber needlegrass/big sagebrush/ juniper Pine-juniper-fescue Idaho fescue/bitterbrush/ponderosa pine, juniper (Lost Forest)

High Desert Ecological Province 43 Campbell, 830 acres; Campbell, 2,400 moderately deep loamy soils such as Rough fescue grows on Hart and Steens acres; Stone Corral, 1,300 acres; and are on droughty bottomlands and fans. mountains above about 6,000 feet on Bluejoint, 8,300 acres. Mountain big sagebrush is dominant north exposures and above about 7,000 above about 5,500 feet elevation on feet on the undulating mountain tops. Many smaller lakes, ponds, and sloughs gravelly or stony upland soils. Low The presence of rough fescue in High are in the wetlands. The sagebrush is strongly dominant on Desert Province in Oregon is an eco- valley has poorly drained silty soils that shallow to very shallow stony upland logical oddity. The natural range of in native condition probably produced soils, but also grows mixed among rough fescue is in northeastern Wash- meadow plants such as sedges, rushes, other sagebrush species on moderately ington, western Montana, southeastern tufted hairgrass, and redtop. The wet- deep, very gravelly mountain slopes. British Columbia, and southwestern lands occupy an estimated 34,000 acres Silver sagebrush is on some but not all Alberta. The rough fescue on Hart and in the Warner Lakes basin. intermittent lakes. Bud sagebrush Steens mountains (Fig. 20) is likely the Some of the area is managed for hay grows only on the most and uplands in most southern occurrence of this species and pasture under extensive water- the province, which are very shallow, in the United States. No other sightings control systems. Contiguous to the wet- very stony soils. Other shrubs in High have been reported in Oregon.' Desert Province in Oregon include lands in this huge valley, mainly in the The most moist uplands in High Desert bitterbrush, mountain snowberry, and southwest and northeast parts, are areas Province in Oregon apparently are where lanceleaf green rabbitbrush which grow of loamy, poorly drained, strongly alka- snowdrifts normally form in winter on on certain mountains on moderately line soils on an estimated 90,000 acres. north-facing slopes. The areas are typi- deep, gravelly upland soils generally In native condition, these areas prob- fied by stands of tall shrubs and aspen above 5,500 feet elevation. ably grew greasewood, rabbitbrushes, and by certain grass species including saltgrass, basin wildrye, squirreltail, Such shrubs as hopsage, littleleaf and big and Wheeler bluegrasses, mountain and similar alkali-tolerant plants. Much brome, Columbia and western needle- spiny horsebrushes, bud sagebrush, of the lake and wetland area is in the grasses, oniongrass, bearded and slender shadscale, threadleaf green rabbitbrush BLM Warner Lakes Management Plan. wheatgrasses, and basin wildrye. About and winterfat typify the most and sites 35 major grass and grasslike species Probably the most significant and valu- in the province, which are usually have been recorded consistently on up- able wetlands in High Desert Province, shallow and stony. These most and lands and about 40 species on bottom- from a total ecosystem viewpoint, are sites are minor in extent in High Desert lands in High Desert Province in Ore- those associated with isolated springs Province but are widespread in the gon-obviously an incomplete record. and streams scattered over the and contiguous Humboldt Province. landscape. No matter how small, each High Desert Province in Oregon is rela- provides the nucleus habitat for a wide Chokecherry and bittercherry, snow- tively rich in perennial forb species be- variety of birds, mammals, reptiles, and brush, serviceberry, green rabbit- cause habitats range from marsh to and other life which could not exist except brush, and aspen grow on areas uplands and climate varies from and for the water and special plant commu- immediately below where snowdrifts cold desert at about 4,000 feet elevation nities there. The wetlands consist of normally form in winter. Curlleaf to over 50 inches annual precipitation grassland meadows, patches of shrubs, mountain-mahogany grows mainly on with fierce winds and temperatures at aspen groves, and combinations of rocky ridges and bedrock outcrops nearly 10,000 feet elevation. these. The variety of shrubs, grasses, above 6,000 feet on some mountains. Some forb species are widespread in and forbs present depends on the It usually is in small groves or in this province; however, a few are degree and duration of wetness and elongated strips interspersed with other specifically oriented to local situations. shade at each location. kinds of vegetation. Identification of forb species can be High DesertProvincein Oregon is About 30 shrub species have been re- troublesome in this portion of Oregon almost entirely a natural shrub- corded consistently on upland sites and because the most commonly used plant grassland onuplands.Sagebrushes 15 shrub species on bottomland sites in manuals in the Pacific Northwest do strongly dominate among a wide High Desert Province in Oregon. This not adequately apply to this area. How- variety ofshrub species commonly is obviously an incomplete record. ever, Peck's manual of higher plants of growing in this province. Oregon 23 has been a reliable reference. Predominant grass species in the and Peck's descriptions of uncommon local Sagebrush species are reasonably site- shrub-grasslands include bluebunch species and their habitats are surpris- specific in where they grow. For wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Thurber ingly accurate which indicates that he example, Wyoming big sagebrush is the needlegrass, squirreltail, and Sandberg actually was there and personally most prominent shrub in the province: and Canby bluegrasses. The most and observed the species. That certainly it is almost ubiquitous throughout the sites may include Indian and Webber cannot be said of some authors' uplands of the province. Basin big ricegrasses and, on sandy soils, needle- manuals, apparently compiled using sagebrush grows mainly on sites having and-thread and thickspike wheatgrass. work by other taxonomists. Another

44 High Desert Ecological Province useful plant identification manual for quantity of forage for herbivores, both into the headwaters of Bridge Creek. this portion of Oregon is "A Manual of wild and domestic. Here is the juncture of High Desert, the Flowering Plants of California." 15 Klamath, and Mazama provinces. An upward trend in ecological status is the most significant criterion on which The line between High Desert and Kla- Management Implications to judge progress. Upward trend in math provinces is based on soil lines Livestock ranching is the dominant ecological and soil status occurs very between Booth-Bluejoint and Wood- economic enterprise in High Desert slowly, especially in early stages, on cock-Mound soils associations, which Province. Agricultural crop alternatives and rangelands such as in High Desert typify the Klamath Province, and Floke- are severely restricted due to adverse Province. Therefore, to attain a verified Olson, Harriman-Hager, Crump- climate and scarcity or cost of water for upward trend is a commendable Ozamis, and Hart-Plush soil associa- farming. Almost all cropland produc- achievement and should be the goal of tions typifying High Desert Province.84 tion is oriented toward livestock ranch- contemporary resource management ing. Tourism and outdoor recreation are programs (Fig. 21). High Desert- Mazama growing enterprises, but their potential Demarcation is somewhat curtailed by immense Province Demarcation distances, topographic features, few all- From the juncture of High Desert, Klamath, and Mazama provinces, the weather roads, weather restrictions, High Desert- Klamath line of demarcation between High limited kinds of recreational activities, Demarcation distance from populated areas, and the Desert and Mazama provinces goes Beginning at the southwest corner north across Buck Creek at about 4,900 seasonal nature of recreational activi- of the High Desert Province in Oregon, ties such as . feet elevation and on to the vicinity of which is at the Oregon-California bor- Halfway Lake. To the north, it almost der about 15 air miles southwest of Adel The physical and ecological nature of parallels Highway 31 for about 10 in Lake County, the line of demarcation High Desert Province historically has miles, about 1 to 2 miles west of the between High Desert and Klamath led to huge ranches and large herds of highway. The line crosses Highway 31 provinces lies at about 6,000 feet eleva- livestock. The ranches are so big and northwest of the Horse Ranch about 7 tion south of the dry Big Lake. complicated as to defy quick acquain- miles west of Fort Rock community. tance with the resources, problems, The line goes north at about that eleva- Where the line crosses Highway 31 needs, options, and opportunities. Not tion to cross Parsnip Creek west of Adel, below the rimrocks, the highway just any rancher or manager can operateup Drake Creek to cross the Plush roadcut reveals an ancient lakeshore them successfully at first tenure. cutoff road going east of Drake Peak terrace of stratified lacustrine materials, and on north across Twelvemile and which signifies the boundary of High Long-time resource management pro- McDowell creeks. At Honey Creek, the Desert Province in this area. grams in High Desert Province are line turns west to the south end of Abert hindered by the ever-changing field From the highway crossing near Horse Rim, then south to Sherman Valley from personnel of public agencies who are the belt of demarcation between where it follows north along the west Ranch, routinely transferred and replaced by High Desert and Mazama provinces side of Abert Rim escarpment nearly to newcomers. Yet, the huge amount of meanders northeast by Hole-in-the- Lake Abert. From there, it veers south- public land in the province essentially Ground, which is in Mazama Province, west to the vicinity of Valley Falls, gives government officials and pro- LakeRanger Station, which is in High Desert Province. on by Cabin grams a strong impact on management which is very near the line of demarca- of all the land, private and public. From the vicinity of Valley Falls, the tion, and on to the north portion of line meanders northwest at about 4,500 Devils Garden, in High Desert Prov- Potential production of forage per acre feet elevation along the western ince. From north of Devils Garden, the on High Desert rangelands is inherentlyboundary of Chewaucan Valley, around belt of demarcation between High low except on meadows and in higher- Tucker Hill, southward up Moss Creek Desert and Mazama provinces runs precipitation zones. A viable ranching about 6 miles, then northwest along the northeast to cross Highway 20 about 8 unit requires many acres. Overall, these valley at the base of Winter Ridge. The miles northwest of Hampton commu- rangelands have been improving in communities of Paisley and Summer nity at about 4,500 feet elevation. It ecological status, slowly but surely, for Lake are in High Desert Province. continues on to the southwest slopes of several decades. Currently, there is Hampton Butte and the juncture much evidence that proper application About 3 miles north of Summer Lake between HighDesert,Mazama, and of modern rangeland science and tech- community, the line between High John Day provinces. nology in High Desert grazing strate- Desert and Klamath provinces turns gies will produce an upward trend in west along the headwaters of various The belt of demarcation between High ecological status while at the same time drainages that drain north into Silver Desert and Mazama provinces is benefitting watershed health, wildlife Lake basin. It continues west about 5 supported by soils such as Gardone, habitat, aesthetics, and quality and miles south of Silver Lake community Floke, and Olson soil series, which

High Desert Ecological Province 45 typifyHigh Desert Province in this formed at one time might have been typified by landscape dissected by area,and Shanahan and Lapine soil connected to the ancient lake in which dendritic drainages into the Snake series which typify Mazama Province.84 terraces of High Desert Province were River system. formed. If this were so, the lakes would have had to exist simultaneously. But it High Desert-John Day is a matter of conjectural paleontology High Desert-Humboldt Demarcation Demarcation and has no current significance in differ- From the juncture of High Desert, entiating between the two provinces. About 20 miles down the Owyhee Mazama, and John Day provinces at River from Rome on Highway 95, on about 4,500 feet elevation on the south- Obviously, terraces and basins in High the west rim of the canyon is the junc- west slopes of Hampton Butte in Desert Province suggest quiet-water ture between High Desert, Snake River, eastern Deschutes County, the line of abatement, which seems logical for and Humboldt provinces. From there, demarcation between High Desert and such closed basins that would have no the line between High Desert and Hum- John Day provinces goes southeast strong currents escaping to the ocean. boldt provinces travels southwest to the along the base of uplands near Hamp- In contrast, the terraces of Snake River eastern footslopes of Sheepshead Moun- ton community. Then it meanders north Province are typified by strong geo- tains, then south and west around for about 20 miles along the headwaterslogic erosion and sharp dendritic drain- Sheepshead at about 4,500 feet eleva- of drainages eastward into the South age patterns suggesting that the water tion. The line wanders north of the Fork Crooked River, which is the basin receded in strong currents, possibly out basin in which Alvord Desert lies to the where GI Ranch headquarters are. through the Snake River to the ocean. eastern footslopes of Steens Mountain Consequently, the kinds of ecological and then south along the base of Steens The line crosses the South Fork easterly sites, soils, plant communities, and es- Mountain at about 4,500 feet elevation. at about 4,500 feet elevation and then pecially the management implications Sheepshead Mountains and Steens south along the east side of North Fork are markedly different between Snake Mountain are in High Desert Province. basin to near where Crook, Deschutes, River and High Desert provinces. Pueblo Mountains and Trout Creek and Harney counties join and on south Mountains are in Humboldt Province. to near where Deschutes, Lake, and Demarcation between the provinces Alvord Desert and are in Harney counties join. From this area, south and east from Crane to the vici- Humboldt Province. the line between High Desert and John nity of Folly Farm and northeast toward Day provinces travels east at about Crowley is likely a belt. There is no From the vicinity southwest of Alvord 4,500 feet elevation to the vicinity of readily apparent line of demarcation Lake, the line between High Desert and Hines, Burns, and Harney, all in High anywhere within this belt; therefore, theHumboldt provinces runs west through Desert Province. This demarcation is line becomes a matter of field experi- the gap between Steens Mountain and where ancient lake terraces of High ence and judgment.42 Pueblo Mountains on to the southeast Desert Province adjoin uplands to the rim of Catlow Valley. Then it goes north, which are in John Day Province. Based on the fact that ancient terrace south at about 6,000 feet elevation lines are extensive and consistently along the ridge that separates drainages From the vicinity of Harney commu- visible at about 4,500 feet elevation to the west from drainages eastward nity, the line of demarcation lies at around the perimeter of the geologic into Rincon Creek watershed. The line about 4,500 feet elevation around the basin that forms High Desert Province, crosses into Nevada about 15 air miles eastern border of to the and that Snake River Province line westwest of the community of Denio. community of Crane. The juncture of of Warm Springs Reservoir is at about High Desert, John Day, and Snake 4,500 feet elevation, the belt of demar- The line is fairly sharp in the northeast River provinces is near Crane. From cation between High Desert and Snake corner of Sheldon National Wildlife near Hampton east to Harney Basin andRiver provinces has been placed at Refuge in Nevada. It lies at the summit Crane, the line between High Desert about 4,500 feet elevation from the on Highway 140 which is north of and John Day provinces is the ancient- vicinity of Crane southeast to just north Thousand Creek Ranch. Railroad Point lake shoreline at about 4,500 feet eleva-of Folly Farm, then northeast to just and Jackass Flats are in Humboldt tion, reflected on general soil maps.70° 72 north of Crowley. Province; Duferrena is in High Desert Province. From there it runs east around the south High Desert- Snake River side of Cedar Mountains to the rim of Demarcation the Owyhee River canyon, which is at Just east of Crane, the line between 4,000 feet elevation. This demarcation High Desert and Snake River provinces belt places the dry lakebeds and closed begins at about 4,250 feet elevation in basins south of Crowley in High Desert the gap at Crane. Here, one might Province, which is typified by similar speculate that the ancient lake in which closed-basin topography; whereas terraces of Snake River Province were Snake River Province to the north is

46 High Desert Ecological Province Humboldt Ecological Province

Location from 4,025 feet at Alvord Desert to and as lakeshore terraces and fans Humboldt Province is in southeast- 8,545 feet on Pueblo Mountains. below about 4,500 feet elevation. ern Oregon. This province and High (Elevations are from USGS 1:250,000 topographic maps, Adel, Oregon.) Two major areas of bottomland soils Desert Province are the part of Oregon are in Humboldt Province in Oregon: lying within the huge western Great Humboldt Province is significantly the Alvord basin, which is about 65 Basin that extends south into Mexico more and at lower elevations than is miles long north to south; and, about 12 and east into west Texas.24 In Oregon, High Desert Province. In Oregon's por- miles to the east, the Lake Humboldt Province covers about 1.8 tion of the Humboldt, this difference is basin, which extends about 28 miles million acres in southeastern Harney reflected by the increasing incidence north to south. Alvord basin contains County and southwestern Malheur from north to south of sites that support Alvord Lake, which fluctuates in size County. It extends south into Humboldt stands of vegetation including bud over the years and receives its water County, Nevada. sagebrush, shadscale, winterfat, and through Wildhorse Creek to the north. similar arid-site species (Fig. 23). Coyote Lake basin drains into the playa Description Coyote Lake. Humboldt Province is character- Another feature that helps to character- ized by long, generally north-south ize Humboldt Province is the common Bottomland soils in Alvord basin occu- mountain ranges such as Pueblo and "desert varnish," which is a shiny black py about 143,000 acres extending from in Oregon and coating of manganese dioxide on ex- the north boundary of Alvord Desert the Pine Forest range and Bilk Creek posed surfaces of stones and gravel on south nearly to the Nevada border, a Mountains in northern Nevada. Long, very and sites. The coating occurs only distance of about 50 miles. This area of north-south closed valleys, technically under very and conditions in which bottomland soils varies in width, east to called grabens, lie between these moun-indicator species, such as those previ- west, from about 1 mile to 10 miles; the tain ranges; they include Pueblo Valley ously mentioned, also grow. widest area is just south of Alvord in Oregon and Kings Valley and Desert Desert. The long, relatively narrow Valley in Nevada. Soils bottomlands in Alvord basin are typical Soils of Humboldt Province in of Humboldt Province physiography. Between the valley floor and the moun- Oregon are related to basaltic uplands tain range are immense, continuous and ancient lakebeds. Basaltic upland Bottomland soils of Alvord basin ancient-lake terraces and fans that con- soils are generally shallow to very occupy about 4,000 acres in Alvord stitute a more or less foothill formation shallow with loamy surface layers and lakebed, about 29,000 acres in Alvord below about 4,500 feet elevation. The clayey subsoils. They are very stony or Desert, and about 8,000 acres in other upper elevation of the terraces denotes rocky. Very steep slopes are essentially playas within the basin. These lakebed the extent of inundation by ancient rockland. The soils, formed in ancient soils are poorly drained and clayey. lakes (Fig. 22). Elevations in Oregon's lakebeds, constitute bottomlands at the About 31,000 acres of bottomlands are portion of Humboldt Province range lowest elevations, below 4,200 feet, loamy, well-drained soils, and about

Humboldt Ecological Province Table 18. Climatic Data for Humboldt County, Nevada. Precipitation Average temperatures Growing Elevation Annual Oct.-March April-June (°F) Killing frosts season Station (feet) (inches) (%) (%) Jan.July Max. Min. Last First (days) Orovada 4,400 10.1 56 35 27.1 71.2 108 -35 June 3 Sept 16 105 ParadiseValley4,600 8.4 65 26 n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a n/a Ranch 4,100 5.9 65 23 25.669.7 105 -34 June 20 Sept 5 77 County Average 8.1 62 28 26.470.4 107 -35 June 12 Sept 11 91

9,000 acres are silty and very poorly Mountains, both in Humboldt Province includes the mountainous uplands, drained, but these areas are not wet- in Oregon. include bluebunch wheatgrass, Sand- lands because of insufficient moisture. berg and Cusick bluegrasses, Idaho About 58,000 acres of bottomlands are These data substantiate that, based on fescue, squirreltail, Thurber and west- poorly drained silty to clayey soils that plant communities and soils, Humboldt ern needlegrasses, basin wildrye, and are strongly alkaline but are not wet- Province in Oregon is significantly Indian ricegrass. lands. About 4,000 acres within the more and than High Desert Province in bottomlands are shallow silty soils Oregon, although both are components Prominent shrubs that grow on lower overlying lacustrine sediments.92 of the western Great Basin. bottomland sites, which are alkaline, include black greasewood, basin big Bottomland soils in Coyote Lake basin sagebrush, gray and green rabbit- occupy about 63,000 acres of which Vegetation brushes, golden currant, silver buffalo- about 3,000 acres are Coyote Lake In Oregon, vegetation on uplands berry, and willow. Prominent grasses playa and about 4,500 acres are other in the Humboldt Province is typified by that grow on lower bottomland sites playas in the basin. The soils are poorly both desert shrub and shrub-grassland include basin wildrye, inland saltgrass, drained and clayey. About 12,000 acres climax types according to unpublished Lemmon alkaligrass, alkali bluegrass, of the bottomlands are loamy well- field studies.4", 49 and alkali sacaton. drained soils, and about 1,500 acres are clayey poorly drained soils. A natural grassland climax type also Dry meadows and wet mountain occurs but only on bottomland sites that meadows are in Humboldt Province in About 26,000 acres of bottomlands are receive run-on water; however, some Oregon but have not been sampled strongly alkaline soils, and about shrubs naturally grow in the plant com- sufficiently to characterize them. They 16,000 acres are shallow silty soils overmunities of these bottomland sites. A probably resemble equivalent sites in lacustrine sediments. None of these deciduous tree climax type, which High Desert Province because of the bottomlands are wetlands .92,91 consists of aspen groves, occurs in cold, wet nature of these sites. scattered areas at higher elevations on some mountains. Plant species recorded in Humboldt Climate Province, Oregon but not in High There are no official weather Prominent shrubs that grow on sites in Desert Province in Oregon include stations in Oregon's portion of the desert shrub climax type include alkali sacaton, desert needlegrass, sand Humboldt Province. l', 28 However, the black greasewood, spiny hopsage, dropseed, silver buffaloberry, green 1941 Yearbook of Agriculture provides shadscale, bud and Wyoming sage- ephedra, and pickleweed (iodine bush). climatic data for three stations less thanbrushes, winterfat, and spiny horse- 30 miles south of the Oregon border brush. Prominent grasses on sites in the which are very likely in Humboldt desert shrub climax type include Indian Management Implications Province in Nevada.28 All three stationsricegrass, squirreltail, basin wildrye, Livestock ranching is the dominant are near major highways in huge north-inland saltgrass, sand dropseed, and economic enterprise in Humboldt Prov- south valleys. desert needlegrass. ince in Oregon. The physical and ecological nature of Humboldt Prov- A precipitation map 53 shows that a Prominent shrubs that grow on sites in ince historically has been a basis for sizable portion of Humboldt Province the shrub-grassland climax type huge ranches and large herds of in Oregon, such as around Alvord Lake,include Wyoming, mountain, threetip, livestock. The ranches are so compli- receives less than 10 inches annual and low sagebrushes; green rabbit- cated and extensive as to defy quick precipitation. This map also shows brush; spiny hopsage; shrubby buck- acquaintance with their resources, about 15 inches annual precipitation on wheat; and mountain snowberry. problems, needs, options, and opportu- Pueblo Mountains and about 25 inches Prominent grasses that grow on sites in nities. Not just any rancher or manager annual precipitation on Trout Creek the shrub-grassland climax type, which (continued on page 50)

48 Humboldt Ecological Province Table 19. Major Ecological Sites in Humboldt Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Natural grassland Saline meadow (less than 10% Saltgrass, Lemmon alkaligrass, alkali canopy cover sacaton of shrubs) Moist sodic bottom Alkali sacaton, basin wildrye/currant Well-drained bottom Basin wildrye (undescribed) Dry mountain meadow Bluegrass, sedge (undescribed) Wet mountain meadow Wetland species (undescribed)

Desert shrub Mixed desert shrub Dry sodic bottom (10% or more Wyoming sagebrush, greasewood/Indian ricegrass, Greasewood/basin wildrye, saltgrass canopy cover squirreltail Desert beachridge of shrubs) Semidesert shrub Budsage, horsebrush, wnterfat/ Wyoming sagebrush, hopsage/Indian ricegrass, needle-and-thread squirreltail Saline beachridge Desert terrace Greasewood/saltgrass, basin wildrye Shadscale, budsage, winterfat/sand dropseed Dry floodplain Desert south Basin big sagebrush, gray rabbitbrush/ Green ephedra, bitterbrush, hopsage/desert basin wildrye needlegrass Silty plain Desert steep south Winterfat, Nuttall saltbush/Indian Purple sage, littleleaf horsebrush, Nevada ephedra/ ricegrass desert needlegrass Moist sodic terrace Blacksage hills Greasewood, saltbush/saltgrass, alkali Blacksage, budsage, shadscale/Sandberg bluegrass, sacaton squirreltail Desert sodic terrace Greasewood, hopsage, budsage, shadscale/basin wildrye Desert playa Shadscale, budsage, hopsage/ squirreltail, basin wildrye

Shrub-grassland Arid sand hills (10% or more Indian ricegrass, needle-and-thread/Wyoming canopy cover big sagebrush of shrubs) Arid north Bluebunch wheatgrass, Indian ricegrass/Wyoming big sagebrush, ephedra South exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass/ Wyoming big sagebrush Droughty rolling hills Bluebunch wheatgrass, Thurber needlegrass/ Wyoming sagebrush Shrubby south Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue/bitterbrush, big sagebrush Steep north Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass/mountain big sagebrush (continued)

Humboldt Ecological Province 49 Table 19 (cont'd). Major Ecological Sites in Humboldt Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Shrub-grassland High rolling hills (continued) Idaho fescue, western needlegrass/ mountain big sagebrush Shrubby mountain north Idaho fescue, Canby and Cusick bluegrasses/mountain big sagebrush, mountain snowberry Shrubby mountain south Basin wildrye/mountain big sage- brush, mountain snowberry Shallow south Bluebunch wheatgrass/low sagebrush Clayey upland Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass/low sagebrush Shallow north Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass/ low sagebrush, buckwheats Gravelly ridgetop Idaho fescue, Sandberg bluegrass/ low sagebrush Moist north Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg and Cusick bluegrasses/ threetip sagebrush Mahogany rockland Curlleaf mahogany (undescribed)

Deciduous tree Aspen grove (5% or more Quaking aspen (undescribed) canopy cover of trees)

can operate these ranches successfully trend in ecological status is the most about 15 air miles west of Denio at first tenure. significant criterion on which to judge community, the line of demarcation progress. between Humboldt and High Desert Potential production of forage per acre provinces heads northwest and north- on Humboldt rangelands is inherently Upward trend in ecological and soil erly along the west side of Rincon low except on meadows and in the status occurs very slowly, especially in Creek watershed to the southeast end of higher-precipitation zones. A viable early stages, on and rangelands such as Catlow Valley and then north along the ranching unit requires many acres. in Humboldt Province. Therefore, to rimrocks east of the valley. attain a verified upward trend is, by Overall, these rangelands have been itself, a commendable achievement and The line veers east through the pass improving in ecological status, slowly should be the goal of contemporary between Pueblo Mountains, in Hum- but surely, for several decades. Cur- resource management programs. boldt Province, and Steens Mountain in rently there is much evidence that High Desert Province. The line goes proper application of modern science north along the footslopes of Steens and technology in Humboldt grazing Province Demarcation Mountain at about 4,500 feet elevation, strategies will produce an upward trend passing west of Alvord Lake, Alvord in ecological status while at the same Humboldt- High Desert Demarcation Desert, Mann Lake, and Tudor Lake, time benefitting watershed health, all in Humboldt Province (Fig. 24). wildlife habitat, aesthetics, and quality Beginning at the southwest corner and quantity of forage for herbivores, of Humboldt Province in Oregon, From the vicinity of Tudor Lake, the both wild and domestic. An upward which is at the Oregon-Nevada border line goes south, east, and north at about

50 Humboldt Ecological Province 4,500 feet elevation around the foot- Humboldt-Snake River Humboldt-Owyhee Demarcation slopes of Sheepshead Mountains, Demarcation From the juncture of Humboldt, which are in High Desert Province. From that juncture, the line Snake River, and Owyhee provinces, between Humboldt and Snake River the line of demarcation between Hum- From this location, the line veers east toprovinces travels southerly along the boldt and Owyhee provinces wanders cross Highway 78 about 7 miles west rim of Owyhee River canyon and around the western slopes of Jackie's southeast of Folly Farm. It continues the breaks of drainages into the river. It Butte, which is in Owyhee Province, at northeast along the northern border of crosses Highway 95 about 3 miles east about 4,000 feet elevation and then extensive lava fields west of Owyhee of Burns Junction, where highways 78 south along the west edge of the River in this vicinity.39, 42, 52 Here, about and 95 merge. From there the line runs plateau where it butts into hilly uplands 20 miles down the Owyhee River from east along the south breaks of Owyhee such as Battle Mountain. The line Rome on Highway 95 and on the River canyon to about 7 miles north of continues south to the Nevada border canyon's west rim, is the juncture of Jackie's Butte and the juncture of along the western boundary of the Humboldt, High Desert, and Snake Humboldt, Snake River, and Owyhee sloping basaltic plateau where it butts River provinces. provinces at about 4,000 feet elevation. up against the hilly uplands.

Humboldt Ecological Province 51 John Day Ecological Province

Location Silver Creek, Silvies River, and Mal- presumably resulted from terrific John Day Province encompasses heur River are in John Day Province. folding, faulting, and volcanic action, the rugged north-central segment of plus geologic erosion of thick sedimen- Oregon. It covers about 7 million acres Physiographically, John Day Province tary deposits and tuffaceous materials mainly in Grant, Wheeler, Jefferson, consists of extensive areas of steeply related to geologic formations-such as Wasco, Crook, and Harney counties. and intricately dissected hills inter- John Day, Clarno, Mascall, and Rattle- Small segments are in Umatilla, Mor- spersed with buttes and plateaus. The snake-some of which are noted for row, and Deschutes counties. Mutton hills are mainly geologically eroded containing plant and animal fossils.' Mountains in the northeast corner of ancient lacustrine materials; plateaus Multiple basalt flows are exposed in Warm Springs Indian Reservation and and buttes are capped with igneous or some canyons, such as near Picture Willowdale are in the northwest part of tuffaceous rock (Fig. 25). Rock Gorge near Dayville, and the province. buttes and hills are in various loca- The Ochoco Mountains are the higher tions, such as south of Ashwood in Madras, Culver, and Prineville are in elevation areas within John Day Prov- Jefferson County. the western part, and Austin and Prairie ince. Although they are contiguous to City are in the eastern extent of the the Blue Mountains and similar in John Day Province is typified by province. Antelope, Fossil, Spray, and vegetation, they are significantly extensively exposed ancient sediments Monument are in the northern extent. different from an ecological standpoint, and tuffaceous materials representing John Day Province adjoins High Desert including soil-plant relationships and various geologic formations. A cursory Province to the south in the vicinity of management implications. observation of the sideslopes of buttes, Burns and Hines. The entire John Day hills, and mountains reveals the surface Province is in Oregon. John Day Province is rugged topogra- is covered by basalt stones and rocks. phy. Elevations range from about 1,000 This has been construed to mean that Description feet near the railroad siding of Nena on the soil mantle overlies basalt bedrock. John Day Province includes virtu- Deschutes River to about 7,360 feet at Sometimes this is true. However, a ally the entire watersheds of Crooked Fields Peak in the Ochoco Mountains more thorough investigation by digging River and of the mainstem and south southwest of Mt. Vernon in Grant a soil pit almost always reveals that the and middle forks of John Day River. County. (The Strawberry Mountain underlying material consists of ancient, Upper North Fork John Day River is in group above about 5,000 feet elevation nonstony sedimentary materials. Many Blue Mountain Province. The middle is in Blue Mountain Province.) The roadcuts substantiate this fact. On top reach of Deschutes River from above Middle Fork and mainstem John Day of buttes and some plateaus, the Billy Chinook Lake north to about the River thread through long, deep valleys underlying material is basalt bedrock. railroad siding at Nena, which is 6 to 7 and canyons surrounded by mountains, miles upriver from Maupin, is in John buttes, and plateaus. The spectacular The widespread feature of a very stony Day Province. The upper watersheds of topography of John Day Province soil mantleoverlying thick beds of

52 John Day Ecological Province nonstony fine-texture sedimentary or sedimentary and tuffaceous materials. tain group and west to John Day and tuffaceous materials supports the view Buttes and plateaus normally are Canyon City is the Oxbow soil, named that, originally, much of John Day capped by remnants of the igneous or after Oxbow Ranch. It is a black clayey Province was capped by a continuous tuffaceous materials that probably soil derived from ancient sediments flow of basalt overlying thick beds of capped much of the thick underlying that overlie a cemented hardpan. sedimentary materials. Subsequently, sediments in this province. Soils in the This area is a good example of a rem- geologic folding, faulting, and volcanic province are directly related to these nant of an ancient lakeshore terrace. It action fragmented the basalt cap, thus different geologic formations; they are is probably the only area of Oxbow soil exposing the underlying sedimentary the parent materials in which the soils in Oregon. Native vegetation was an materials to geologic erosion. As fine- have formed. Idaho fescue/low sagebrush plant texture underlying materials eroded, the community which, coupled with its basalt cap was undercut and fractured For example, gray-brown Simas soils blackish soil that often connotes strong into stones and rocks which formed the are representative of south-facing organic content, suggests that this area surface colluvium now lying on side- slopes, and black Tub soils are repre- has a moist, cool environment due to its slopes. Some basalt caps remain, some sentative of north-facing slopes in hilly being close to and north from the are gone, but the surface layers of hilly areas where clayey ancient materials Strawberry Mountain group. sideslopes are usually very stony. constitute the landscape. Some areas of Tub soils have been dryfarmed. The In higher-elevation Ochoco Mountains, Some horizontally layered rock forma- Day soils represent areas of red clay soils in natural shrub-grassland open- tions in John Day Province look like that have been exposed sporadically ings are related to ancient sediments. basalt escarpments from a distance but within the ancient materials. However, some surface soils in these are actually flows of tuffaceous According to Baldwin,9 these red clay openings contain aeolian silty materials materials that resemble basalt only in which overlie the clayey subsoils their outward physical features. sediments are the base component of the John Day geological formation. Thederived from sedimentary materials. Basalt escarpments, being hard rock, formation's other components are a The Marsden soil in Bear Valley show angular protruding edges; tuffa- middle greenish layer and a top layer represents this situation. Pine- and fir- ceous escarpments, being relatively softthat is buff or white (Fig. 25). Soils on forested soils geomorphically related to materials, appear smooth and have steep north-facing slopes in the hilly ancient sediments are represented by rounded edges due to weathering. A area, such as the Curant series, appear the Hankins soil series. Other pine- and good example is just north of Bums to be primarily aeolian materials which fir-forested soils that show evidence of where Highway 395 traverses Devine probably accumulated in this topo- aeolian materials in surface layers over- Canyon. The canyon escarpment graphic position as prevailing winds lying clay sediments include Kahler nearest Burns is tuffaceous material; redistributed volcanic ash and other and Boardtree. Pine- and fir-forested farther north, at a higher elevation, the geologically recent silty materials, soils lying above basalt bedrock are escarpment is basalt. forming deposits like snowdrifts on lee represented by the Yawkey soil, and slopes. Basaltic and tuffaceous forma- those lying over shale bedrock are Hills formed through geologic erosion tions are widespread throughout the represented by Laycock soil. of ancient sedimentary or tuffaceous province. Soils related to these areas Soils of the pine- and fir-forested area materials in John Day Province can be are generally very stony and shallow to identified by their rounded tops. In con- of John Day Province differ from those moderately deep over basalt bedrock or in Blue Mountain Province. John Day trast, hills on which part of the original tuffaceous hardpans. basalt cap still exists are flat-topped pine- and fir-forested soils contain buttes or plateaus. Round-top hills are a Anatone, Madras, Lamonta, Era, and more clay, especially in subsoils, and distinguishing feature of John Day Agency soil series represent this group. normally are underlaid by fine-texture Province (Fig. 26). The soil Rockly, which represents the sediments or tuffaceous materials. In scabland ecological site in John Day contrast, Blue Mountain pine- and fir- Soils Province, has a clayey, very shallow, forested soils are silt loam in texture Physiographically, John Day Prov- very stony profile. Its counterpart in and normally lie over buried aeolian ince consists of extensive areas of steep- Columbia Basin Province, Bakeoven, soils or basalt bedrock. ly and intricately dissected hills inter- has a loamy, very shallow, very stony Casual observation commonly equates spersed with isolated buttes, extensive profile. In areas where soils formed in these two forested areas because they plateaus, and large and small valleys. shaley parent materials, Venator and produce the same tree species. How- Utley soils are representative.61 The hills, which usually are round- ever, from an ecological and total topped because of geologic erosion, From the mainstem John Day River ecosystem management standpoint, generally are at lower elevations than southeast of Prairie City, the sloping they are significantly dissimilar in ways surrounding butte tops and plateaus. terrace that extends from the river southdescribed later, in the section on These hills consist mainly of ancient to the footslopes of Strawberry Moun- vegetation.

John Day Ecological Province 53 Early soil surveys recorded areas of find some genuine Tolo soils on higher- Vegetation Hall Ranch, Klicker, and Tolo soils in elevation forested areas, especially on According to the 1936 State of the pine- or fir-forested areas in John north exposures, in John Day Province. Oregon Forest Type Map54 which pre- Day Province.' 1, 82 The type locations ofFor example, north-facing slopes on dates extensive logging, nearly half the these soils is in Blue Mountain Prov- Rudio Mountain west of Fox Valley entire John Day Province was covered ince, and areas mapped at that time as closely resemble similar sites in Blue by pine, fir, and mixed pine-fir forests. these soils in John Day Province were Mountain Province in terms of soil and About 40% was nonforested with pri- thought to resemble the Blue Mountain vegetation. However, no test was made marily sagebrush-grassland in lower soils. However, it should be noted that, regarding the clay content of subsoils, elevations. A surprisingly small part of in the era of general soil surveys, the which is a differentiating characteristic the province, probably less than 10%, soil scientists of Soil Conservation of John Day Province. was occupied by stands of western Service were not authorized to map juniper during that era. The lack of The fine-texture upland soils of John soils in national forests; areas were western juniper is particularly notice- Day Province are highly susceptible to examined incidental to cross-country able in the John Day River drainage water erosion. Consequently, colluvial travel. Consequently, soil mapping in where only scattered stands existed in and alluvial soils are along drainages as pine- or fir-forested areas was based on the late 1930s. The upper Crooked bottomlands and as upland fans and sketchy data. Furthermore, in later River drainage east of Paulina also had terraces. Kimberly, Courtrock, and years, formal soil correlation studies only scattered stands of juniper. revealed significant differences Dayville are loamy soils underlaid by between the pine- or fir-forested soils sand and gravel; they are along streams In the southwest part of John Day of John Day Province and those in Blue such as John Day River. Loamy soils, Province in the vicinity of Prineville, Mountain Province. For example, the such as Hack series, are on alluvial fansjuniper stands occupied a high propor- Tolo soil, which typifies Blue Mountain and terraces. Damon is a black clayey tion of the landscape. They extended Province, is typically about 30 inches soil typical of meadows in cold valleys east up the Crooked River to about of silt loam volcanic ash over a buried such as Bear Valley and Silvies Valley Paulina. Preponderance of juniper nonashy aeolian silt loam soil that also south of Canyon City. around Prineville and lower Crooked is about 30 inches or more thick. Tolo River in John Day Province likely is soils lie primarily on high-elevation Climate due to the huge seed source provided plateaus and north-facing slopes in Based on 15 official weather sta- by junipers that blanketed the nearby Blue Mountain Province. tions, which represent a cross-section pumice-soil area (Mazama Province) of John Day Province, the average from Redmond to Bend and east to A former soil scientist at Oregon State annual precipitation for the province is about Hampton. University, Ellis Knox, was a key about 13.3 inches. Of that, about 28% observer of differences between John falls during the herbaceous native-plant Unpublished field studies of juniper Day Tolo soils and Blue Mountain Tolo growing season, April through June. stand structure and age classes on these soils. He once suggested that the name November through March precipitation pumice soils helped form the belief that of the John Day Tolo be changed to is about 53% of the annual total. Aver- western juniper is a climax species on Tolocho, i.e., Tolo in the Ochocos age January maximum and minimum pumice soils in this particular area. (personal communication to author). temperatures are 38.9 and 18.4°F, Growth-ring counts of huge junipers, Unfortunately, the soil correlation team respectively. Average April through some about 3 feet in diameter and most did not adopt this excellent suggestion. June maximum and minimum tempera- of which were hollow, indicated such However, to correct the situation, two tures are 68.1 and 36.2°F, respectively. trees were hundreds of years old. All age classes were represented in the soil series representing ashy soils in the A precipitation map53 shows 25 to 30 stand, which indicates the likelihood of pine- or fir-forested area of John Day inches annual precipitation in the Province were established subse- stand perpetuation over time, i.e., Ochoco Mountains south of Mitchell quently. Boardtree soils consist of climax species.40 and about the same in the mountains about 30 inches of ashy gravelly loam east of Seneca and around the foot- In the 1960s, Larry Haverfield, an SCS over buried clay that is related to slopes below about 5,000 feet elevation range conservationist, and Bill Ander- ancient sediments; Yawkey soils consist on the Strawberry range. The area son observed that the stand of juniper of ashy gravelly loam and clay loam above 5,000 feet elevation in Straw- north of the mainstem John Day River layers over very gravelly clay underlaid berry range, which receives over 35 was increasing rapidly over the land- by basalt bedrock at 40 to 60 inches. inches annual precipitation, is in Blue scape at that time. Likely it had origi- In view of the source of aeolian ash in Mountain Province. Other mountainous nated from the stand of old juniper which Tolo soils were formed, i.e., the areas in John Day Province average growing on rocky ridges several miles Mazama eruption, and the very wide- about 15 to 20 inches; lower elevation to the north. In this study, growth rings spread geographic distribution of this areas average between 10 and 15 incheson all trees along a transect from the deposit, it is reasonable to expect to annual precipitation. river north to the forest boundary,

54 John Day Ecological Province Table 20. Climatic Data for John Day Ecological Province, Oregon." Station and Precipitation Average maximum and minimum length of record Elevation Annual Nov.-March April-June temperatures (°F) (years) (feet) (inches) (%) (%) January April-June Crook County OchocoRangerSta. 15 3,979 19.3 56 25 33.4-13.5 64.1-32.6 Prineville 22 2,868 9.4 47 .32 40.9-18.3 68.4-34.8 Grant County Austin 18 4,200 18.6 62 22 33.8-7.3 65.9-30.2 Beach Creek 8 4,710 18.7 50 :31 36.6-18.4 61.3-35.1 Canyon City 13 3,194 15.3 52 :31 39.5-21.8 69.2-40.7 Dayville 117 2,400 11.4 .46 :34 43.0-22.8 71.9-40.2 Prairie City 10 3,425 14.1 51 29 40.2-21.6 71.7-39.8 Seneca 13 4,666 11.2 60 23 34.9-4.9 63.6-30.7 Jefferson County Grizzly 7 3,672 13.8 50 29 36.1-17.2 65.2-35.1 Hay Creek 13 2,938 10.1 48 32 41.3-22.7 68.9-36.9 Madras 21 2,265 9.1 53 27 40.0-19.3 70.5-34.7 Warm Springs Agency 25 1,500 10.0 61 19 42.7-24.2 71.9-39.5 Wasco County Antelope 20 2,690 12.5 54 26 39.7-19.6 69.2-37.2 Wheeler County Fossil 6 2,660 14.4 55 28 38.4-18.4 67.7-35.7 Mitchell 16 2,766 11.2 42 40 42.9-24.3 69.9-40.1 Province Average 13.3 53 28 38.9-18.4 68.1-36.2 No weather stations in John Day Province in Deschutes, Harney, Morrow, or Urnatilla counties which was essentially the top of the The major increase of western juniper bare, dry surface of Tub or Simas soil main ridge, showed increasing age in John Day Province has been on in summer after surface soil moisture classes from the river to the ridgetop. lower-elevation soils, such as Tub and has evaporated. The soil surface will The study also showed that the expan- Simas, that are geomorphically related effervesce. sion of junipers had begun about the to the clayey ancient sediments of the These are basic ecological relationships early 1900s. The very old juniper, the Clarno Formation. that augment the more common, but seedstock, grew on rocky ridgetops only partial, explanation for the spread where they likely were protected some- One explanation for this phenomenon is that western juniper has an affinity of juniper, which is that too much fire what from wildfire because of lack of control has been practiced over the surface fuel. for calcium; the clayey ancient sedi- ments usually are calcareous. The affi- years. Prolonged grazing which The spread of juniper in the mainstem nity of western juniper for calcium can severely uses herbaceous ground cover, John Day River valley near Dayville be demonstrated by measuring the pH reducing wildfire's ability to travel, also was documented by a sequence of of litter and surface soils under the likely is a significant factor in this photos spanning several decades. canopy of a large juniper and then com-complex biological equation. As paring it with the pH of surface soil juniper increase in density, thereby This set of photos has been used to material away from the juniper canopy. totally dominating the biological illustrate the juniper problem in John The pH is higher under the canopy, situation, solving these problems Day Province. Bill Farrell, then Grant apparently because juniper roots extractbecomes more difficult and expensive. County Extension agent, obtained the calcium from the soil in a very wide first old photo, taken in 1920, from a radius from each tree and subsequent Both basaltic and rhyolitic igneous local person (Fig. 27-a). He and E. W. leaf-fall deposits calcium on the surfaceformations are in John Day Province; basalt is by far the more prominent. Anderson, then range conservationist under the tree. for Soil Conservation Service, located Rhyolite is light in color, even pinkish; the approximate point from which the The calcareousness of soils formed in basalt is dark in color. Chemically, original photo was taken, and they took ancient sediments of John Day Prov- rhyolite is acidic; basalt is basic. It is photos in 1945, 1956, and 1965 (Figs. ince can be demonstrated by dropping not known whether the chemistry of 27-b through 27-d). some diluted hydrochloric acid on a soils formed in each of these materials

John Day Ecological Province 55 is ecologically significant. However, juniper; however, on the adjacent hilly Soil-plant relationship studies of casual observation not supported by ancient sediments-calcareous Tub and ecological sites in John Day Province data indicates there might be an eco- Simas soils juniper were profuse. Prag, indicate that nearly all nonforested sites logical significance. Tub, and Simas series all are clayey were natural shrub-grasslands origi- soils. nally, i.e., having 10% or more canopy For example, observations of soils cover of shrubs. formed in rhyolite are that they tend to Since the affinity of western juniper for be more clayey than soils formed in calcium in the soil has been verified, However, steep north-facing slopes in basaltic materials. Also, Idaho fescue the question now is whether the John Day Province nonforested areas seems to be better adapted to clayey absence of western juniper on soils likely are natural grasslands on which rhyolitic soils than is bluebunch derived from rhyolitic parent materials Idaho fescue very strongly dominated wheatgrass, provided of course that the is due to the acidic nature of rhyolite. the plant community. A variety of shrub effective environment of the site is species grow sparsely (less than 10% suitable for growth of Idaho fescue. Another example of how different plant canopy cover collectively) on these communities might be related to rhyo- steep north-facing sites in spite of the In northeastern Jefferson County south litic and basalt parent materials is near strong competition from dense Idaho of Ashwood is a large area of rhyolitic Mitchell in Wheeler County. White fescue. These shrubs include bitter- parent material known as Blizzard Butte, likely a rhyolitic volcanic cone, brush, wax currant, rose, low Oregon- Ridge. The Prag soil series formed in and Black Butte, likely a basaltic vol- grape, buckwheats, green rabbitbrush, these rhyolitic parent materials .61 In canic cone, produce different plant com- and common snowberry. July 1959 the extensive rhyolitic area munities. Western juniper is prominent on Blizzard Ridge contained no on Black Butte but not on White Butte. On lower-elevation, more and natural shrub-grassland sites in John Day Province, the canopy cover of shrubs Table 21. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends includes big sagebrush, bitterbrush, in John Day Ecological Province, Oregon. gray horsebrush, gray and green rabbitbrushes, buckwheats, wax Station and currant, low sagebrush, and broom length of record Elevation Average date Average date (years) (feet) growthbegins* growth ends* snakeweed. On more moist natural shrub-grassland sites at higher eleva- Crook County tions, the shrub component also Prineville 15 2,868 March 15 June 2 Ochoco includes such species as low Oregon- Ranger Sta. 22 3,979 April 5 July 30 grape, common snowberry, service- berry, rose, and green rabbitbrush. Grant County Dayville 17 2,400 February 24 June 2 The natural shrub-grassland site locally Canyon City 13 3,194 March 7 July 13 called scabland, which is mainly on Prairie City 10 3,425 March 7 July 5 very shallow, very stony ridgetops, is Austin 18 4,200 April 9 September 5 found in John Day Province as well as Seneca13 4,666 March 11 July 13 in Columbia Basin and Blue Mountain Beach Creek 8 4,710 April 1 August 7 provinces. Jefferson County Warm Springs The major shrub on scabland in John Agency 25 1,500 February 25 June 5 Day Province is low sagebrush but is Madras 21 2,265 March 15 June 3 rigid sagebrush on scabland in Colum- Hay Creek 13 2,938 March 5 June 4 bia Basin and Blue Mountain prov- Grizzly 7 3,672 March 27 July 12 inces. On some plateaus and ridges in Wasco County John Day Province is a unique land Antelope 20 2,690 March 15 July 1 pattern called biscuit scabland. For an explanation of the origin of this land Wheeler County pattern, see the section on Columbia Fossil 6 2,660 March 17 July 16 Basin Province; there, biscuit scabland Mitchell 16 2,766 March 5 June 7 is prominent and widespread. No official weather stations in John Day Province in Deschutes, Harney, Morrow, or Umatilla counties. The widespread presence of basin * The average date vegetation growth begins on native perennial bunchgrasses is wildrye on small colluvial fans, approximately the date average daily temperatures reach 39 to 40°F. Average date terraces, and pockets of colluvial soil growth ends is considered to be when available soil moisture is depleted. Interpreta- scattered over the landscape in hilly tions are based on data in Johnsgard.'7 ancient sediments is typical for John

56 John Day Ecological Province Day Province. Erosion and local and Wheeler bluegrasses, pinegrass, Wheeler bluegrass, mountain snow- deposition of fine materials creates prairie junegrass, and other bunch- berry, curlleaf mahogany, green rabbit- these pockets or stringers of deeper grasses; shade-tolerant forbs such as brush, big sagebrush, and western colluvial soils where basin wildrye arnica, woollyweed, green lupine, pearlyjuniper. becomes established (Fig. 28). Basin everlasting, strawberry; shrubs such as The following species regularly grow wildrye also dominates on floodplains bitterbrush, common snowberry, spirea, in Blue Mountain Province on this site and fans along intermittent and small willow, and low Oregon-grape; and but rarely, if ever, on this site in John perennial streams. reproduction of all tree species. Day Province: slender wheatgrass, Prominent perennial streams, such as 5.Douglas-fir/grand fir/ponderosa timber oatgrass, western fescue, Co- Bear Creek near Seneca, typically pro- pine, usually on north-facing slopes lumbia needlegrass, threadleaf sedge, duce wet-meadow vegetation, some- above 3,500 feet elevation, with abun- blue wildrye, slender hairgrass, deer- times interspersed with patches of dry- dant saplings and pole-size trees; a brush, elderberry, spirea, huckleberry, meadow vegetation on high spots, and sparse understory of shade-tolerant ninebark, serviceberry, dogbane, syringa, usually with a dry-meadow fringe on grasses, forbs, and shrubs; and repro- chokecherry, bittercherry, oceanspray, the perimeter where meadow adjoins duction of all tree species although bearberry, and herbaceous sage. uplands. ponderosa pine is sparse. Generally, John Day Province pine/fir Natural stands of coniferous trees occu- The kinds of soil that help differentiate plant communities consist of fewer pied about half the area in John Day John Day Province forested areas from species than those in Blue Mountain Province in 1936. The stands comprised Blue Mountain Province forested areas Province. This might be related to the five generalized plant communities are reflected in significant differences soils and climate of the two provinces. which have management implications. in site-specific plant communities. Average precipitation for John Day Province is significantly lower than for 1. Westernjuniperwith an understory For example, John Day Province has Blue Mountain Province, and the of bunchgrasses such as bluebunch natural juniper stands but Blue Moun- percentage of annual precipitation that wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Sandberg tain Province does not. Ponderosa pine/ falls during the growing season of bluegrass, Thurber needlegrass, basin bunchgrass ecological sites are in both perennial herbaceous species also is wildrye; a wide variety of perennial provinces, and based on superficial lower (see the section on climate in forbs; shrubs such as bitterbrush, big observation they resemble each other- each province description). sagebrush, gray horsebrush, and green pine trees, grasses, forbs, and shrubs. rabbitbrush; and juniper reproduction. It also should be noted that the herba- However, field studies of this ecologi- ceous understory of pine/sedge and 2. Ponderosa pinewith an understory pine/Douglas-fir/sedge ecological sites of bunchgrasses such as Idaho fescue, cal site in both provinces reveal signi- in John Day Province is strongly domi- bluebunch wheatgrass, Wheeler blue- ficant differences in the species that nated by sedge, whereas the herbaceous grass, Thurber needlegrass, prairie constitute the plant community of the understory of equivalent ecological junegrass, and sedge; many perennial site. In John Day Province, the follow- sites in Blue Mountain Province is forbs; a wide variety of shrubs such as ing species regularly grow on the pine- strongly dominated by pinegrass. This bitterbrush, mountain and common bunchgrass site but are rarely, if ever, situation also might be related to soils snowberry, wax currant, low Oregon- found on this site in Blue Mountain and climates of the two provinces. grape, curlleaf mountain-mahogany, Province: Wheeler bluegrass, Thurber needlegrass, mountain snowberry, and wax currant; an occasional western juniper; and pine reproduction. curlleaf mahogany, green rabbitbrush, big sagebrush, and western juniper. On Management Implications 3. Ponderosa pinewith an understory the other hand, the following species The geomorphology of many soils dominated by sedge and a wide variety regularly grow on the pine-bunchgrass in John Day Province is related to of grasses such as big, Kentucky, site in Blue Mountain Province but are ancient sedimentary and tuffaceous Wheeler, and Sandberg bluegrasses, rarely, if ever, found on this site in Johnformations. These soils are finely Idaho fescue, mountain brome, prairie Day Province: onespike oatgrass, textured (clayey), very sticky when junegrass, and pinegrass; many threadleaf sedge, huckleberry, mock- wet, and highly susceptible to erosion perennial forbs; shrubs such as bitter- orange, and herbaceous sage. by precipitation. They frost heave in brush, mountain and common snow- winter and spring and crack open in berry, snowbrush, willow, and wax Even greater differences exist on the summer when denuded of vegetation, currant; and pine reproduction. ponderosa pine-sedge ecological site in which presents serious problems of each of these provinces. For example, resource stability and potential for 4. Ponderosapine/Douglas-fir/grand the following species regularly grow on natural rehabilitation. fir with a midstory of saplings and this site in John Day Province but pole-size trees; a dense cover of sedge rarely, if ever, on this site in Blue Except for the irrigated areas, such as with some big, Kentucky, Sandberg, Mountain Province: basin wildrye, around Prineville and Madras, cropland

John Day Ecological Province 57 Table 22. Major Ecological Sites in John Day Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Natural grassland Steep north Bottomland fan (less than 10% Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, Basin wildrye, Idaho fescue, Sandberg canopy cover Sandberg bluegrass bluegrass of shrubs) Deep scabland Moist bottom Sandberg bluegrass, bluebunch wheatgrass, Basin wildrye, big bluegrass, Idaho fescue, Idaho fescue Kentucky bluegrass Dry mountain meadow Idaho fescue, Nevada bluegrass, various grasses and forbs Wet mountain meadow Tufted hairgrass, Nevada bluegrass, redtop, sedges Alkaline bottom Basin wildrye, quackgrass, Idaho fescue

Shrub-grassland Arid rolling hills Sodic bottom (10% or more Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass, Basin wildrye, saltgrass/greasewood canopy cover Thurber needlegrass/big sagebrush of shrubs) Rolling hills Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Sandberg bluegrass/big sagebrush Moist rolling hills Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass/mixed shrubs Scabland Sandberg bluegrass/low sagebrush Droughty south exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass, Thurber needlegrass/sagebrush South exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass, Idaho fescue/sagebrush Droughty north exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Sandberg bluegrass/sagebrush Mahogany rockland Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass/curlleaf mountain-mahogany Sand hills Bluebunch wheatgrass, Indian ricegrass/ mixed shrubs Sandy north exposure Idaho fescue, needlegrass/mixed shrubs Clayey terrace Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass/ low sagebrush

Mixed coniferous- Semiwet bottom deciduous tree Redtop, Idaho fescue, Kentucky bluegrass/ (5% or more cottonwood, ponderosa pine canopy cover of trees) (continued)

58 John Day Ecological Province Table 22 (cont'd). Major Ecological Sites in John Day Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Coniferous tree Juniper rolling hills (5% or more Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, canopy cover of Sandberg bluegrass/bitterbrush/juniper mature trees) Juniper south exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass/bitterbrush/juniper Pine-bunchgrass Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass/ bitterbrush/ponderosa pine Pine-sedge Sedge, Idaho fescue/bitterbrush/ ponderosa pine Pine-mixed fir-sedge Sedge, pinegrass/bitterbrush/ponderosa pine, firs Mixed fir-pine forest Shade-tolerant understory/firs, ponderosa pine Mixed fir forest Sparse understory/Douglas-fir, true firs agriculture is limited to narrow irri- ous landscapes in John Day Province, Reseeding suitable areas of soils gated valleys, most of which are is a major problem of resource manage-formed in ancient sediments and devoted to producing livestock forages. ment. Once established, juniper tuffaceous materials also has been The general lack of local winter feed becomes a vigorous competitor for tested with varying degrees of success restricts management options of lower- moisture and nutrients. That the very in John Day Province. elevation rangelands that have been extensive root system of western used historically for spring turnout and/juniper is a strong deterrent to range- The abandoned croplands of Central or winter grazing. land recovery on clayey calcareous Oregon Land Utilization Project near soils under known management options Madras, now the Crooked River Based on a few near-relict areas locatedhas been a central point of concern National Grasslands, are soils having during soil and site studies, the clayey since the mid-1950s. loamy surface layers over clay or soils of John Day Province generally tuffaceous hardpans. Soil Conservation are quite productive when a good stand During early years of concern over Service successfully seeded these, of healthy perennial grasses is present. juniper proliferation, it was obvious primarily to crested wheatgrass, prior to The wide variety of perennial grasses, that juniper had to be eradicated before the early 1950s. forbs, and shrubs documented as grow- herbaceous growth could increase. ing on these calcareous fine-texture Productivity has been more or less soils in John Day Province suggests Various eradication methods were maintained over the years by grazing that the original shrub-grasslands of tested. Some areas were chained, bull- management strategies. The extensive this province probably were some of dozed, chainsawed, burned, and treated seedings are on plateaus and slopes the best, if not the best, rangelands in with chemicals. The main lesson thought to be arable before the big Oregon for species diversity. learned: eradicating juniper isn't easy. drought of 1930s. In other locations, Neither is it always cost-effective. Conservation Reserve Program seed- The original potential of these sites ings are on soils recently farmed, which certainly has been lost or seriously The history of many of these trials was contributes to the belief that John Day diminished by irremediable changes in that any increases in herbaceous growthProvince clayey soils can be reseeded soil and/or site. However, potential for following juniper eradication seemed on slopes where equipment can operate. recovering some vegetation cover merely to attract more domestic and However, special attention to grazing exists and is worth considering if prac- wild herbivores to graze which, in turn, management is required to maintain tical ways can be devised to control soilaggravated juniper reproduction. production. erosion and noxious plants, especially Initiating and perpetuating a complete The most extensive need for revegeta- juniper. management program was so difficult and expensive that it was accomplished tion in the province is in the huge area Expansion of western juniper, which rarely, and then only by certain ranch of hilly clayey soils, yet the terrain is now encompasses virtually all calcare- operators. unsuitable for seeding equipment.

John Day Ecological Province 59 However, one project did achieve some From this plateau, it meanders north- between John Day and Blue Mountain success in that kind of terrain. The east to cross Highway 97 in Cow Can- provinces continues southeast at about 1956 Northside Game Range planning yon about 1 mile north of the conflu- 4,000 feet elevation. In this vicinity is a project extended from Prairie City west ence of Antelope and Trout creeks and mixture of those forested soils that to Picture Rock Gorge below Dayville then follows the north-side breaks of typify Blue Mountain Province and on the north side of mainstem John DayAntelope Creek to its headwaters. those that typify John Day Province. River. The project demonstrated the About 2 miles north of Antelope, the The soil pattern creates a belt of demar- feasibility and effectiveness of seeding abrupt demarcation is exposed in a cation 2 to 3 miles wide in this particu- all or the most suitable small areas in a roadcut on Highway 218. The roadcut lar area.9o grazing unit and then managing the unitdisplays Columbia Basin Province's on the basis of those seedings. Collec- basalt cap and silty aeolian soil, which Farther east, however, the belt narrows tively, a number of small seedings on extends to the north, overlying the considerably at about 4,000 feet eleva- flatter land enhanced early forage on a light-color sedimentary materials that tion as the line of demarcation follows number of ranches in the project. Obvi- typify John Day Province, which is to east along the north breaks of John Day ously, perpetuating the effectiveness of the south of this point. The line runs River drainages. Grassy Butte, Potato this investment requires very specific northeast along west-side breaks of Hill, Thompson Flat, Buckaroo Flat, management of the small seedings. John Day River canyon to the point and other plateau points above about where the northeast corner of Wasco 4,000 feet elevation that jut out into the Historically, John Day Province has County and the southeast corner of John Day River drainage are in Blue been highly touted for its deer and elk Sherman County join on the John Day Mountain Province; slopes into river antler trophies and superb hunting. It is River. The John Day River canyon northdrainage to the south are in John Day very likely that there is a relationship of this point is in Columbia Basin Prov-Province. between this longstanding reputation ince; south, it is in John Day Province. and the wide variety of plant species, The adjoinment of the two provinces especially shrubs, which provide high- From where the line crosses John Day along this segment of the line is illus- quality big game habitat, and the cal- River, it travels south, east, and north trated by an area of biscuit scabland careous soils as a source of calcium for along the breaks of a large rocky (patterned ground) at Thompson Flat at excellent bone growth. plateau that juts south into Wheeler the south end of Potamus Ridge. Here, County. The plateau is in Columbia the soil profile of a biscuit was 0 to 6 In recent years, research by Lee Eddle- Basin Province; the area west, south, inches silt loam; 6 to 10 inches silty man and Rick Miller of Oregon State and east of the plateau is in John Day clay loam (these are typical upper- University has revealed the meteoro- Province. The plateau's southwest profile textures in Blue Mountain logical, physiological, and ecological corner, overlooking the area around Province); 10 to 20 inches silty clay; implications of the dominance of west- Clarno, is a good example of an abrupt and 20 to 30 or more inches clay (these ern juniper and big sagebrush on and province boundary. It can be viewed are typical subsoil characteristics of native rangelands, such as in John Day from below, near Clarno. John Day Province). In this biscuit Province.11' 12, z1 The seriousness of this scabland site, the interspersed scabland situation has been well publicized. ThisThe line between John Day and Colum- soil is very shallow and very stony with is an invaluable contribution to the pro-bia Basin provinces goes east about 3 abundant surface basaltic stones, which cess of determining management miles north of Fossil at about 4,000 feet is typical for scablands in both Blue options and forming plans for resource elevation in the vicinity of Cummings Mountain and John Day provinces. rehabilitation in John Day Province. Pass. About 3 miles east of the pass, the line between John Day and Columbia Geologists have reported that the Blue Province Demarcation Basin provinces becomes the demarca- Mountains of Oregon were, at one time, tion between John Day and Blue the north shore of an ancient lake. Mountain provinces. These thick clay deposits, such as the John Day-Columbia Basin one at Thompson Flat at about 4,000 Demarcation The demarcation line between John feet elevation along the line of demar- Day and Columbia Basin provinces is Starting in northwest John Day cation, are likely associated with the general line between soil series Province near the railroad siding of remnants of ancient lake terraces. Nena in the Deschutes River canyon, such as Simas and Tub, which are very about 7 miles upriver from Maupin, the clayey (John Day), and the Condon It is interesting to note that, as support- line of demarcation between John Day series, which is an aeolian silt loam ing evidence, the ancient lakeshore and Columbia Basin provinces runs (Columbia Basin). terraces that signify where Snake River southeast and south along the east rim Province adjoins Blue Mountain of the Deschutes canyon in Wasco John Day- Blue Mountain Province in Baker County are very County and south into Jefferson County Demarcation visible at about 4,000 feet elevation to encompass the small plateau about 2 From about 3 miles northwest of near Keating and Richland. The miles west of Willowdale.83, 86 Kinzua, the line of demarcation continuity of elevation at the 4,000-foot

60 John Day Ecological Province level, coupled with evidence of ancient From that point, the line heads west andFrom this point, the line between John lakebed terraces, obviously has great around the north side of Dixie Butte at Day and Snake River provinces mean- significance from an ecological about 5,600 feet elevation. Dixie Butte ders south at about 4,000 feet elevation province perspective. and the area above about 5,600 feet along the east side of Stinking Water elevation that surrounds it are in Blue Mountain, then between Warm Springs An excellent illustration of the demar- Mountain Province. Where the line Reservoir, which is in Snake River cation between John Day and Blue crosses Highway 28 southwest of Dixie Province, and Coleman Mountain in Mountain provinces is on Highway 207 Summit, spectacular roadcuts display John Day Province. The line is at about between Hardman in Morrow County beds of tuffaceous sediments, which 4,000 feet elevation along the west and Spray on the John Day River in typify the upper-elevation boundary of breaks of the South Fork Malheur River Wheeler County. About 15 miles north John Day Province, overlaid by a and westward along the north breaks of of the river and east of Mahogany medium-texture, aeolian soil mantle Crane Creek, which flows east in Butte, the highway ascends the hairpin that typifies Blue Mountain Province. northeastern Harney County. turns on the face of the escarpment that is the upper reaches of geologically From the vicinity of Dixie Summit, the It is near Crane that the John Day, eroded ancient sediments and tuffa- line of demarcation meanders south at Snake River, and High Desert prov- ceous materials that typify John Day about 4,500 feet elevation to cross the inces adjoin. Stinking Water Mountains Province. North of the escarpment, the upper John Day River near Blue Moun- and Stinking Water Pass on Highway plateau is Blue Mountain Province. tain Hot Springs. It continues west 20 between Burns and Juntura are in Below the escarpment are many good along the north-facing slopes of Straw- John Day Province. opportunities to view scenic land- berry Mountain, Baldy Mountain, and scapes of John Day Province. Canyon Mountain at about 4,500 feet John Day-High Desert elevation or possibly lower, depending Demarcation The line between John Day and Blue on the elevation at which volcanic ash From the gap at Crane, in High Mountain provinces heads east along is prominent in soils on these north- Desert Province, the line of demarca- the north breaks of John Day River facing slopes. Volcanic ash soils typify tion between John Day and High Desert drainage until it reaches the ridge west Blue Mountain Province. The line runs provinces runs north and west at about of Deerhorn Creek. around the west slopes of Canyon 4,500 feet elevation along the edge of Mountain and then southeast at about There, it veers south to the North Fork Malheur Lake basin. Harney, Burns, 5,500 feet to 6,000 feet elevation along John Day River about one-half mile and Hines are just inside High Desert the rims southwest of High Lake and west of the confluence of Deerhorn Province. This portion of the line of between Summit Prairie, which is in Creek and the river. Then it continues demarcation is obvious where ancient Blue Mountain Province, and Logan west downstream to the first oxbow lake terraces of High Desert Province Valley, which is in John Day Province. that changes the direction of river flow adjoin the uplands to the north, which It continues around the south of Crane from west to south. At this oxbow, the are in John Day Province. From Hines, Prairie, in Blue Mountain Province. line turns southeast up the ridgetop and the line goes west at about 4,500 feet continues at about 4,000 feet elevation The line goes through pine- and fir- elevation to near where Harney, to cross Highway 395 near Meadow forested areas from near Kinzua in Deschutes, and Crook counties adjoin. Brook summit south of Dale. northeastern Wheeler County to the From there the line veers north and vicinity of Crane Prairie in southeasternfollows around the basin in which GI The line continues east to just west of Grant County. Major pine- and fir- Ranch is headquartered. The line runs Putney Mountain at about 4,000 feet forested soils that typify John Day southwest to the base of uplands just elevation where it travels southeast at Province are Hankins, Koehler, and north of Hampton. Southwest of about 4,500 feet elevation in the upper Boardtree, all of which have clayey Hampton Butte, the John Day, High slopes of the Middle Fork John Day substrata. Hall Ranch and Tolo soils Desert, and Mazama provinces adjoin. River. That is approximately the level typify Blue Mountain Province; sub- at which truncated or exposed tuffa- strata of these soils are loamy and ceous deposits and underlying clayey John Day-Mazama Demarcation underlaid by basalt bedrock. materials typify the John Day Province. West of Hampton Butte, the line of The old mining town of Susanville is in demarcation between John Day and John Day Province. John Day-Snake River Mazama provinces more or less follows Demarcation the boundary between the basin and the From about 1 mile north of Susanville, John Day, Blue Mountain, and uplands to the north and then west and the line continues southeast to cross the Snake River provinces adjoin near the north of Grassy Butte at about 5,000 Middle Fork John Day River about 6 confluence of Crane Creek, which feet elevation. miles upstream from Bates at about flows east out of Crane Prairie, and the 4,500 feet elevation. Bates is in John North Fork Malheur River in southeast- However, elevation is not as much a Day Province. ern Grant County. criterion in demarcation between John

John Day Ecological Province 61 Day and Mazama provinces as it is west canyon wall of Crooked River to area. Therefore, the area north from between John Day and High Desert and the confluence of Squaw Creek with Warm Springs and east of The Dalles other provinces. This is because Deschutes River, which places the Province is placed in John Day Prov- Mazama Province is the area covered Peninsula and the Island Natural Area ince. From the vicinity of Hehe Butte, by an aeolian pumice mantle and lava in John Day Province.70 the demarcation line turns east, then flows reportedly associated with the north and west to encompass the area eruption of Mt. Mazama (Crater Lake), In this vicinity, soils typifying John around Simnasho, which is in The and the deposit of aeolian material was Day Province include the Madras, Dalles Province. About 1 mile north of not necessarily affected by elevation. Ochoco, and Agency series which over- Simnasho, the line goes north at about lie tuffaceous or sedimentary hardpans. 3,000 feet elevation to where the It should be noted, however, that the Soils typifying Mazama Province have previous northern boundary of Warm pumice deposit at the perimeter of the a pumice-dominated layer over buried Springs Indian Reservation, which is on Mazama pumice mantle was and is soils or basalt bedrock and include sucha ridge, intersects the road between thinner than toward the interior of the series as Deschutes and Shanahan. Wapinitia and Simnasho. fallout area. Unpublished field studies indicate that where about 8 to 10 inches John Day-The Dalles Demarcation or more of pumice lies over buried John Day- Columbia Basin soils, herbaceous vegetation resembles John Day, Mazama, and The Dalles Demarcation the and nonforested portion of Mazamaprovinces adjoin about 3 to 4 miles It is near this ridgetop pass on the Province, i.e., bluebunch wheatgrass/ west of the confluence of Squaw Creek road between Wapinitia and Simnasho Idaho fescue. Less than 8 to 10 inches with Deschutes River at about 2,500 that John Day, The Dalles, and Colum- of pumice mantle over buried soils feet elevation on the west side of what bia Basin provinces adjoin. From this apparently produces High-Desert-type has been called the Lower Desert. point, the line of demarcation between herbaceous vegetation, i.e., bluebunch From this point, the line of demarcation John Day and Columbia Basin prov- wheatgrass/Thurber needlegrass.32 between John Day and The Dalles inces was placed east along the ridge provinces wanders north at about 2,500 that marks the previous northern It also should be noted that Mazama feet elevation where rocky tablelands boundary of the reservation and then aeolian pumice falling on hilly uplands of John Day Province join the foot- north around the east side of Nena in a relatively thin mantle along the slopes of the Cascade Mountains, which Creek basin to cross Deschutes River perimeter of the fallout pattern likely are in The Dalles Province. Metolius near the railroad siding of Nena, which was washed into adjacent valleys and Bench, Sawmill Butte, and Hehe Butte is 7 to 8 miles upstream from Maupin. drainages by subsequent precipitation. on the Warm Springs Indian Reserva- Mutton Mountains are in John Day Therefore, hilly uplands in the vicinity tion are in The Dalles Province. Province; most of Nena Creek water- of the line of demarcation between shed and Juniper Flat are in Columbia John Day and Mazama provinces likely In the northeast portion of Warm Basin Province. contribute to the location of this line; Springs Indian Reservation, which is Tygh Valley, about 15 miles north of generally, the flatter land is in Mazama, west of the Deschutes River, there is a this line, is a small island of John Day and the hilly uplands are in John Day real mishmash of vegetation-soil Province that is typified by exposed Province. relationship patterns.70 Small to large Clarno geologic formation in which islands of vegetation and soils that are About 5 miles north of Brothers, the Tub and Simas soils have been formed. more or less typical of John Day or The demarcation line veers northwest and A similar island of John Day Province Dalles or Columbia Basin provinces are north to the vicinity of the confluence lies around Lonerock in southeastern interspersed over the landscape from of Bear Creek with Crooked River. Gilliam County within Columbia Basin the vicinity of Warm Springs north to From there it essentially follows the Province. Other instances exist where Pine Grove and Wapinitia. west canyon rim of Crooked River. At outcrops of Clarno formation, rated as the mouth of Crooked River canyon one of the oldest geologic formations in about 6 miles south of Prineville, the This is probably the clearest example in Oregon of why the line of demarcation Oregon, are exposed under more recent line turns northwest to cross Highway formations, such as along the upper 126 on the plateau about 4 miles east ofbetween provinces must sometimes be a matter of judgment. It also is an ex- North Fork John Day River and north Powell Butte and continues northwest of Kinzua. to Crooked River east of Smith Rock. cellent example of how a highly com- plex pattern of very different ecological Powell Butte, Redmond, and Terre- units over a huge area can present a bonne are in Mazama Province; Prine- bewildering basis for site-specific ville, Smith Rock, Gray Butte, and resource management decisions. Based nearly all the Crooked River National on field observations, it was decided Grasslands are in John Day Province. that ecological features typifying John From Smith Rock, the line follows the Day Province dominate the mishmash

62 John Day Ecological Province _

Klamath Ecological Province

Location Peak,8,405feet;Light Peak, 8,220 Lakebasins and terracesoccupy about Klamath Ecological Province in feet;TwelvemilePeak,8,080 feet; and 50% of theland area of the province south-central Oregon lies mostly in CraneMountain,8,446 feet. In the that lies in KlamathCounty and about western Lake County and southern western portion of Lake County, high 20% of theprovince that is in Lake Klamath County with a very small part elevations in the province include Dead County.Lake basins and terraces in in southeastern Jackson County. In IndianMountain,7,060feet;Winter both Lakeand Klamath counties are Oregon, the province covers about 2.7 Rim, 7,280 feet; Slide Mountain, 7,840 used primarily for irrigated agriculture. million acres. It extends south into feet; Coleman Rim, 7,470 feet; Cougar The restof the province in Oregon is Siskiyou and Modoc counties in Peak, 7,925 feet; and Grizzly Peak, rangeland and forest. California. 7,775 feet.None of these peaks reach timberline. Soils Description Noncultivated upland soils typi- The portion of Klamath Province in fying the Lake County part of Klamath Physiographically, Klamath Prov- Klamath County is less mountainous Province are derived primarily from ince in Oregon is typified by large than in Lake County. High elevations tuffaceous and basaltic materials. basins consisting of lakebeds sur- include Fishhole Mountain, 7,020 feet; Sagebrush-bunchgrass rangeland soils rounded by extensive ancient lake Horsefly Mountain, 6,480 feet; Yainax are primarily the Booth-Bluejoint soil terraces interspersed with basaltic Butte, 7,240 feet;Saddle Mountain, association, which are clayey soils, and mountainous terrain. Existing lakes in 6,835 feet; Swan Lake Point, 7,320 the Hapgood-Hartig soil association, Oregon include Upper Klamath Lake, feet; Haymaker Mountain, 6,585 feet; which are loamy soils. Pine- and fir- Agency Lake, and the northern third of and StukelMountain, 6,525 feet. forested soils are primarily the Wood- Goose Lake, plus two large reservoirs, cock-Mound soil association, which Drews and Gerber. In California, the Lowest elevations in the province in are well-drained loamy soils. province includes Lower Klamath Oregon are in Klamath County-Malin, 4,050 feet; Merrill, 4,070 feet; Klamath Lake, Tulelake, Clear Lake, and the Soils being cultivated, mainly under Falls, 4,100 feet; and Klamath Lake, southern two-thirds of Goose Lake. irrigation, on terraces and fans in the 4,136 feet. In Lake County, the lowest Upper Klamath Lake drains to the Lakeview vicinity are typically the elevation in the province is along the south through Klamath River. Goose Drews soil series. Soils on well-drained line of demarcation between Klamath Lake seldom overflows, but when it bottomlands are in the Lakeview soil and High Desert provinces from the does it drains south into Pit River. series. Poorly drained flood plains vicinity of Valley Falls to near Paisley. include the Goose Lake, Scherrard, and The highest elevations in Klamath This line lies at about 4,500 feet Steams soil series, the latter two being Province in Oregon are in the north- elevation. Goose Lake is 4,680 feet and alkaline.' south chain of basaltic mountains, Lakeview is 4,746 feet elevation. , east of Lakeview in (Elevations are from USGS 1:250,000 In the Klamath County part of Klamath Lake County. These include Drake topographic maps.) Province, the majorrangeland soil is

Klamath Ecological Province Lorella series, which is formed in tuffa- ceous native-plant growing season, of the Lake County portion of Klamath ceous and basaltic materials and grows April through July. The average annual Province was covered by trees, prima- juniper, sagebrush, and bunchgrasses. precipitation for the Klamath County rily ponderosa pine. A small area above The Merlin soil series represents the part of the province is 14 inches, of about 7,000 feet elevation southeast of major low sagebrush scabland site. which 27% falls during the growing Lakeview was forested with such spe- Forested areas are associated primarily season. October through March (win- cies as true fir. About 30% of this part with Woodcock, Pokegema, and Turn- ter) precipitation for the province is of the province was unforested. Of that, quist soil series, which are formed in about 61% of total precipitation in Lake about 5% was cultivated, 5% was lake- andesitic parent materials. County and 66% in Klamath County. bed in the vicinity of Lakeview, and the other 20% was likely shrub-grassland. Various soil series are associated with Average temperatures do not vary sig- the extensive valleys and low terraces nificantly between Lake and Klamath Only about 1% of the Lake County part that are cultivated, mainly under irriga- county weather stations. Average Janu- of the province was covered in juniper tion, in the Klamath County part of the ary maximum and minimum tempera- stands. The stands were mainly in two province. tures for the province are 37.8 and locations, about 12 miles west of Lake- 16.4°F, respectively. Average April view and south of Highway 66, and on The soils are formed in lacustrine sedi- through July maximum and minimum the rocky plateaus sloping east between ments consisting of tuffaceous and temperatures for the province are 70.9 Warner Mountains and Warner Valley. basaltic materials and are represented and 38.9°F, respectively. by such soil series as Malin, Scherrard, In the part of Klamath Province in Kla- Bedner, Calder, and Laki. Fordney A precipitation map53 shows a high for math and Jackson counties, about 50% series is in sandy basins and fans. Soils the province of about 65 inches annu- was covered by trees consisting pri- that are poorly drained include Ontko, ally in the area south- marily of ponderosa pine. In addition, Klamath, Pit, and Henley; some are east of Lakeview, which is also the about 10% of the area was covered by alkaline. Marsh soils are represented by highest elevation in the province. A few stands of juniper distributed throughout Tulano, Algoma, Yamsay, and Moyina mountainous areas scattered throughout the area. Unforested areas, which were series, which are formed primarily in the province show average annual probably cropland and shrub-grass lacustrine diatomaceous materials. The precipitation above 25 inches; the south rangelands, covered about 40% of the Tulano series, where drained, probably portion of Winter Rim shows about 35 area; lakes, marshes, and wet meadows is the most extensive cultivated soil in inches. The most and part of the prov- occupied about 10% of the area. Klamath Province.79 ince is near the California state line at Malin and Merrill, southeast of Kla- Radical changes since 1936 in Klamath math Falls, where annual precipitation Province of Oregon include expanded Climate is about 10 to 12 inches. juniper coverage and increased crop- Based on eight official weather land acreage resulting from sprinkler stations representing Klamath Ecologi- irrigation and the drainage of marshes cal Province in Oregon, average annual Vegetation and shallow lakes. precipitation for the Lake County According to the 1936 State of Ore- portion of the province is 14.2 inches, gon Forest Type Map,54 which predates Natural grasslands in Klamath Province of which 35% falls during the herba- extensive logging activities, about 70% of Oregon grow only on bottomlands,

Table 23. Climatic Data for Klamath Ecological Province, Oregon.17 Station and Precipitation Average maximum and minimum length of record Elevation Annual Oct.-March April-July temperatures (°F) (years) (feet) (inches) (%) (%) January April-July Klamath County Dairy 17 4,150 14.2 70 26 37.9-15.9 71.7-35.8 Gerber Dam 7 4,850 18.6 69 26 37.2-11.1 71.6-37.5 Klamath Falls 22 4,100 13.9 64 23 37.1-20.8 71.7-43.7 Malin 15 4,050 12.1 67 36 38.6-18.9 72.3-38.8 Merrill 16 4,070 10.6 68 25 37.4-16.8 72.4-37.0 Round Grove 19 4,888 16.1 63 30 37.8-15.2 68.2-34.1 Yonna 22 4,147 12.7 61 24 38.0-15.7 71.2-35.6 KlamathCounty Average 14.0 66 27 38.7-16.3 71.3-37.5 Lake County Lakeview 21 4,746 14.2 61 35 36.9-16.4 70.5-40.3

Province Average 14.1 64 31 37.8-16.4 70.9-38.9

64 Klamath Ecological Province Table 24. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends not grow in other eastern Oregon in Klamath Ecological Province, Oregon. provinces: woolly wyethia, Klamath Station and plum, and birchleaf mountain- length of record Elevation Average date Average date mahogany. In its wide variety of shrub, (years) (feet) growth begins* growth ends* grass, and forb species, Klamath Prov- Klamath County ince represents a transition between Dairy 17 4,150 March 22 July 25 other eastern Oregon provinces and Gerber Dam 7 4,850 April 1 August 24 Siskiyou Province in southwest Ore- Klamath Falls 22 4,100 March 15 July 26 gon, which also is typified by a wide Malin 15 4,050 March 15 July 6 variety of native species many of which Merrill 16 4,070 April 1 June 27 apparently do not grow in eastern Round Grove 19 4,888 April 7 August 13 Oregon. Yonna 22 4,147 March 24 July 15 Natural juniper sites are considered to Lake County be sites on which mature juniper trees Lakeview 21 4,746 March 27 July 24 constitute 5% or more of canopy cover No official weather stations in Klamath Province in Jackson County. and in which all age classes of juniper * The average date vegetation growth begins on native perennial bunchgrasses is live, indicating the stand's perpetuation. approximately the date average daily temperatures reach 39 to 40°F. Average date growth ends is considered to be when available soil moisture is depleted. Interpreta- East of Warner Mountains in Lake tions are based on data in Johnsgard.'7 County, natural juniper stands grow on extensive areas of basalt rubbleland- land where rock outcrops and stone- and the vegetation varies according to Associated soils include Lorella and size rubble cover about 90% of the land degree and duration of wetness. The Booth series. surface. Plant growth is confined to driest natural grasslands in Klamath areas between the rubble; low sage- Province are well-drained bottoms on Klamath Province shrub-grasslands on moderately deep soils are notable for brush is the dominant shrub (Fig. 30). which basin wildrye dominates a wide These are likely the same areas that variety of grass species. their wide array of shrub species. Big sagebrush and bitterbrush are widely were mapped as juniper trees in 1936. Associated soils include the Modoc prominent. Other shrubs include Kla- Similar examples of natural juniper series. The wettest natural grasslands in math plum, serviceberry, desert goose- stands also are to the west in the the province are wet mountain mead- berry, shrubby buckwheat, gray horse- province. Associated soils include the ows on which tufted hairgrass domi- brush, gray and green rabbitbrushes, Hart-Rockland and the Lorella-Booth- nates in a wide variety of grasses, curlleaf mountain-mahogany, choke- Rockland complexes. sedges, and rushes. Associated soils cherry, wax currant, granitegilia, rose, include Gooselake, Klamath, and Lake- mountain snowberry, blue elderberry, Other natural juniper stands are on view series. Meadows of intermediate oceanspray, and, on steep north expo- undulating south-facing slopes having wetness are dominated by a variety of sures, birchleaf mountain-mahogany. shallow, stony soils. Bitterbrush, big bluegrasses, including Leiberg, Nevada, sagebrush, and a variety of bunch- Kentucky, Canby, and Sandberg, and a Klamath Province shrub-grasslands grasses grow in the understory. Associ- wide variety of other grasses, sedges, also are notable for the wide variety of ated soils include Lorella and Fuego and rushes. Associated soils include perennial grass and forb species in series. Whitworth and Yocum series. plant communities. It is not uncommon for a sizable plant community in rela- In addition to juniper, stands of other Marshlands, the transitions from lake totively good ecological status to contain coniferous trees in 1936 covered about meadow, are typified by bullrushes and about 10 perennial grass species and 70% of Klamath Province. In this area, cattails. Associated soils include Tulano, about 20 perennial forb species. ponderosa pine is the most widespread Algoma, Yamsay, and Moyina series. tree species and grows in a variety of Soils associated with shrub-grasslands environments because of its wide Natural shrub-grasslands grow within in the province in Oregon include Cali- ecological amplitude. In Klamath the lake basins of Klamath Province in mus, Bluejoint, Drews, Hartig, Lorella, Province, it appears that ponderosa pine Oregon mainly on lakebed terraces and Crume, Modoc, and Nuss series. can encroach into disturbed forests, stony sloping tuffaceous plateaus and including into stands of white fir.39 on some south-facing slopes at lower Most shrub, grass, and forb species in elevations in mountainous areas (Fig. this province in Oregon are the same White fir is the next most widespread 29). Shrub-grasslands on very shallow species found to the east and north in tree species in the province. (Both or claypan soils are strongly dominated other Oregon ecological provinces. white fir and grand fir are collectively by low sagebrush with minor amounts However, at least three species com- called white fir in this instance.) of shrubby buckwheat and bitterbrush. mon in Klamath Province in Oregon do Commonly, a single tree will have

Klamath Ecological Province 65 needle characteristics of both species, nication to author). The ecological am- stand. It usually is on north-facing indicating that cross-breeding has plitude of white fir in Klamath Prov- slopes in the province east of Klamath produced a hybrid. This also occurs in ince in Oregon extends from the dry Falls and on south-facing slopes west Blue Mountain Province of Oregon ponderosa pine zone, where it is nor- of Klamath Falls. It appears to be where the two species intermingle. mally on north exposures, to high cold somewhat tolerant of shade and always ridges of about 6,700 feet elevation. grows in mixed stands. Incense cedar Fred Hall, an ecologist in Region 6 of generally is associated with sugar pine the U.S. Forest Service (Portland), onceDouglas-fir is common only in the in Klamath Province in Oregon. aptly suggested the hybrid should be western portion of Klamath Province. classified asAbies grandcolorto Sugar pine extends throughout the Lodgepole pine is uncommon in dispense with debate (personal commu- province but is not dominant in any Klamath Province but grows in cold

Table 25. Major Ecological Sites in Klamath Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Natural grassland Well-drained bottom (less than 10% Basin wildrye, Kentucky bluegrass, Canby canopy cover bluegrass, beardless wildrye of shrubs) Dry meadow Leiberg bluegrass, Nevada bluegrass, Ken- tucky bluegrass, slender wheatgrass Wet meadow Tufted hairgrass, redtop, Nebraska sedge, rushes

Shrub-grassland Droughty rolling hills Claypan bottom (10% or more Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass, Idaho fescue, Nevada bluegrass/low sagebrush canopy cover Idaho fescue/mixed shrubs of shrubs) Rolling hills Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass/ mixed shrubs Scabland Sandberg bluegrass/low sagebrush Very cobbly land Idaho fescue, Sandberg bluegrass/ low sagebrush South exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass/ mixed shrubs North exposure Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, big bluegrass/mixed shrubs Steep north Idaho fescue, blue wildrye/mixed shrubs, birchleaf mountain-mahogany Deep sand hills Needlegrasses, ricegrass/bitterbrush Mahogany rockland Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass/mixed shrubs, curlleaf mountain-mahogany Clayey terrace Idaho fescue, Sandberg bluegrass/ low sagebrush Loamy terrace Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, (continued) needlegrass/bitterbrush

66 Klamath Ecological Province Table 25 (cont'd). Major Ecological Sites in Klamath Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Coniferous tree Juniper rolling hills (5% or more Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, canopy cover Sandberg bluegrass/mixed shrubs/juniper of mature trees) Juniper rubbleland Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Sandberg bluegrass/low sagebrush/juniper Juniper-pine-bunchgrass Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Thurber needlegrass/mixed shrubs/pine, juniper Pine-bunchgrass Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass/ mixed shrubs/ponderosa pine Pine-sedge Sedge, Idaho fescue/mixed shrubs/ponderosa pine Mixed pine-fir-sedge Sedge/mixed shrubs/mixed pine, fir Fir-pine forest Shade-tolerant grasses/shrubs/mixed fir, mixed pine Fir forest Shade-tolerant understory/true firs Lodgepole forest Shade tolerant understory/lodgepole pine

Deciduous tree Aspen grove Aspen meadow (5% or more Mixed grasses/mixed forbs/mixed shrubs/ Wet meadow grasses/forbs/aspen, willow canopy cover aspen of trees) areas above about 6,700 feet elevation, faceous lakeshore terraces and basins. tion can be improved. Costs to imple- such as on Swan Lake Point and Yainax These soils generally have loamy sur- ment management plans should be Butte. It also occurs in concave cold face layers and loamy to clayey sub- weighed realistically against benefits and wet locations. soils. The surface is often stony or that might be achieved. gravelly, and hardpans may be present. Soils associated with pine, fir, and These features are important to irrigated Successful livestock ranching in mixed pine-fir forests include Mound, cropland agriculture on sloping lands. Klamath Province in Oregon depends Woodcock, Tournquist, Lobert, and Bly largely on irrigated pasture during part series. Aspen is the most abundant and Much of Klamath Province rangelands or all of the summer grazing period widespread native deciduous tree in the in Oregon are typified by basalt stones because of the lack of native summer province and is restricted to cold, wet and outcrops on the surface, especially range in the area. A few ranches have areas. Soils associated with aspen on upland slopes and plateaus. Associ- summer and early fall grazing in the stands include Mitten Springs series. ated soils commonly are shallow over forested area west of Klamath Falls and The greatest abundance of tree species, clayey subsoils. These soils readily on several mountains. and for that matter of all plant species, erode if herbaceous cover is depleted. is in the far west, most moist part of This general lack of native summer Klamath Province in Oregon. This area Stones, exposed by erosion, can form a range at least partly explains why is near Siskiyou and Cascade provinces. stone pavement that seriously impedes rangeland ecological status generally is reestablishment of forage plants. quite low in the province. Historic Resource-management plans to pressure to turn out on the range as Management Implications improve range ecological status and soon as possible in spring and to stay The geomorphology of many soils forage production must fully recognize off irrigated fields until crops are in Klamath Province in Oregon is that stone pavement on an area essen- harvested in autumn likely contributed related to ancient sedimentary and tuf- tially determines how much the vegeta- to current ecological status.

Klamath Ecological Province 67 Expansion of western juniper, which communities of Paisley and Summer From there, it runs south and west to now covers virtually all noncultivated Lake are in High Desert Province. the vicinity of Chiloquin and south to and nonforested areas in the province, Lobert Junction. is a major problem. Various methods of About 3 miles north of the community eradication have been tested; the main of Summer Lake, the line goes west From the vicinity of Lobert Junction on lesson learned is that eradicating juni- along the headwaters of various Highway 97, the line winds north along per is not easy nor always cost- drainages that drain north into Silver the east side of Agency Lake to the effective. However, some juniper Lake basin. It continues west about 5 vicinity of Klamath Agency, which is in control projects, coupled with grazing miles south of Silver Lake community Mazama Province, then northwesterly management systems, have improved into the headwaters of Bridge Creek. Atto about 4 miles west of Fort Klamath ecological status and produced more this location, Klamath, High Desert, along the east side of Klamath Point. and better livestock and wildlife forage,and Mazama provinces join. Klamath, Mazama, and Cascade prov- inces join in the vicinity of Klamath and better soil protection by the The line between Klamath and High Point. improved vegetation. Desert provinces is based on soil lines between Booth-Bluejoint and Wood- One of the most important aspects of The demarcation between Klamath and cock-Mound soil associations, which Klamath Province in Oregon is its Mazama provinces is based on soil typify Klamath Province, and the excellent wildlife habitat. The wide lines between Woodcock-Mound, Hart, Floke-Olson, Harriman-Hager, variety of herbaceous and shrub species and Lorella soil series, which typify Crump-Ozamis, and Hart-Plush soil forms ideal habitat, especially for deer. Klamath Province, and Lapine, associations which typify High Desert Nearly all sites except in forested areas Shanahan, and Kirk-Chock soil series, Province .14 produce significant amounts of bitter- which typify Mazama Province .14 brush, a prime winter-range browse for deer. Normal use for big game should Klamath- Mazama Demarcation Klamath -Cascade Demarcation be considered when managing livestock From the vicinity of Klamath and other uses of the area. The line of demarcation between Klamath and Mazama provinces runs Point, in Cascade Province, the line of south to the west of Thompson Reser- demarcation between Klamath and Province Demarcation voir, which is in Klamath Province, Cascade provinces heads south at about then around Sycan Butte, which is in 5,500 feet elevation along the east side Klamath-High Desert DemarcationMazama Province, and along the east of Klamath Point, Lather Mountain, The line of demarcation between side of Sycan Marsh, also in Mazama Pelican Butte, Mt. Harriman, Buck Klamath and High Desert provinces Province.76 Peak, and Buck Mountain. begins at the Oregon-California border From Buck Mountain the line turns at about 6,000 feet elevation south of From about 5 miles southwest of Sycan northwest at about 5,500 feet elevation the dry Big Lake, which is southwest ofMarsh on the Sycan River, the line around the headwaters of Jenny Creek Adel in Lake County. The line mean- heads east and runs northeast across the to the area southwest of Brush Moun- ders north at about that elevation to headwaters of Sycan River and then tain, which is in Cascade Province. It is cross Parsnip Creek west of Adel, up southeast in the vicinity of Winter Rim. in this vicinity that Klamath, Cascade, Drake Creek to cross the Plush cutoff From the south portion of Winter Rim, and Siskiyou provinces join. road east of Drake Peak, and on the line travels south across upper Elder Creek to west of Campbell Lake and northward across Twelvemile and The line of demarcation between south of Deadhorse Rim where it veers McDowell creeks. Klamath and Cascade provinces is not west along the south-facing slopes of based on soil maps. Rather, the line At Honey Creek, the line veers west, to Gearhart Mountain, which is in represents the approximate boundary the south end of Abert Rim, then south Mazama Province.84 between the mixed-pine-mixed-fir to Sherman Valley. From there it fol- forests of Klamath Province and the lows north along the west side of Abert From the area south of Gearhart Moun- colder, more moist mixed-fir-hemlock Rim escarpment nearly to Lake Abert. tain, the line goes west to North Fork forest, which typifies Cascade Prov- Then it turns southwest to the vicinity Sprague River. Then it snakes its way ince.50 However, in this area, the of Valley Falls, in High Desert Province. west more or less near the north boun- dary of Sprague River valley. Ferguson Dumont-Coyata and Donegan-Killet From the vicinity of Valley Falls, the Mountain is in Mazama Province. soil associations are associated with line travels northwesterly at about mixed fir-hemlock forest of Cascade 4,500 feet elevation along the western From the vicinity of Knott Tableland, Province; Pokegema-Woodcock soil boundary of Chewaucan Valley, around which is in Klamath Province, the line association is associated with the Tucker Hill, south up Moss Creek meanders northwest, passing about 5 mixed-pine-mixed-fir forests of about 6 miles, then northwest along the miles north of Sprague River commu- Klamath Province.61 valley at the base of Winter Ridge. The nity which is in Klamath Province. (continued on page 85)

68 Klamath Ecological Province 'o Province (foreground) near Clarno, Oregon. Province on the basaltic plateau (background), and the geologically eroded ancient sediments of John Day Figure 1. Looking northeast at an example of an abrupt line of demarcation between 4 ecological provinces: Columbia Basin r I 11

II i ,i a.. F 11 t i Some representative views representative Some u north of Oregon. between Province Figure 2. Hampton, ecological demarcation (foreground), (background), and John Day an example of provinces: High Ecological Provinces of Oregon: Some Representative Views Desert Province Looking north at an abrupt line of of Oregon The Ecological Provinces Ecological The r -%-Im- - m

Figure 3Rugged basaltic foothills of Blue Mountain Province, Oregon

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Figure 4Typical view of Blue Mountain Province, showing interspersed natural grasslands and V forested areas

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Figure 5 Managed natural grasslands in Blue Mountain Province, Oregon

70 Ecological Provinces of Oregon Some Representative Views ;:z Figure 7. Looking south from Hawkins Pass, which is the source of South Fork Imnaha River in Blue Mountain Province, Oregon. Oregon. 4,000 feet elevation along Cascade Province, Oregon and hemlock forest at about Figure 8. Douglas-fir, noble fir, the highway near Marion Forks in forest in Blue Mountain Province, forest in Blue Mountain Figure 6. Typical pine-fir-pinegrass Ecological Provinces of Oregon: Some Representative Views I I

Figure 9Olallie Butte, elevation 7,210 feet, on the crest of the Cascade Range as seen from Olallie Lake in Cascade Province, Oregon

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L sr Figure 10 Sandy beaches and aa coastal headlands south of Cape Lookout in the northern portion of Coast Province, Oregon

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LA i,. C Figure 11Looking southwest from Marys Peak into Coast Province, Oregon Fog in valleys that extend to the ocean is typical for this province r

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Ecological Provinces of Oregon Some Representative Views ' S 1 .V fi

Figure 12. Douglas-fir-western hemlock forest in upper Siletz River drainage of Coast Province, Oregon, showing abundance of deciduous trees that commonly proliferate after logging or burning. Pl- .r ire f .. i. . `

Figure 13. Overview of extensive dryland farming area within Columbia Basin Province, Oregon. Washington state, north of the Columbia River, is in the background.

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Figure 14. Biscuit scabland is extensive in Columbia Basin Province, Oregon. r rSa Y YR - .T,

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Ecological Provinces of Oregon: Some Representative Views 7,.3 Figure 15. A cross-section of a typical biscuit scabland in Columbia Basin Province, Oregon. It shows the massive basalt underlying both the biscuits of soil and the adjacent scablands

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F p Figure 16 Managed natural upland grasslands in Columbia Basin Province, Oregon.

Figure 17. Overview of extensive closed basins typifying High Desert Province, Oregon. Wagontire Mountain is on the horizon at right

Ecological Provinces of Oregon Some Representative Views Figure 18. Ancient shoreline of Warner Valley along the west side of Poker Jim Ridge on Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge in High Desert Province, Oregon.

Figure 19. Concentric bands of vegetation on a shallow lakebed in Hart Mountain National Antelope Refuge, in High Desert Province, Oregon. The vegetation bands are related to the frequency, depth, and duration of inundation.

Figure 20. Stand of rough fescue in a managed natural shrub grassland at about 7,000 feet elevation on Hart Mountain in High Desert Province, Oregon.

Ecological Provinces of Oregon: Some Representative Views Humboldt ProvinceneartheOregon- bottomlands andmountainrangesin Nevada border.Continuousancient-

V lighter-color formationbetweenthe lake terracesandfansappearasa IT bottomlands andthemountains. fir . . L-,-&. k. ; ' + Figure 22.Immensesodic S A I I- ' r I Ecological Provinces ofOregon:SomeRepresentative Views r wheatgrass andThurberneedlegrass grassland dominatedbybluebunch Desert Province,Oregon. in thevicinityofGlassButtes,High Figure 21.Managednaturalshrub- Humboldt Province,Oregon. lakeshore terracesandfansthattypify shrub rangeonverystonyancient Figure 23.Managednaturaldesert I

. L L AI r Figure 25. Geologically eroded ancient lacustrine materials capped with basaltic or tuffaceous rock typify John Day Province, Oregon.

1 11 i Iv r ' 4 l 1. po_ ,. ancient sediments. I along the eastern footslopes Figure 24. Ancient-lake terraces Figure 24. Ancient-lake is in Humboldt Province, Oregon. is in Humboldt Province, W* Province showing round-top hills, of Steens Mountain, in High Desert of Steens Mountain, Et Figure 26. General view of John Day remnants of basalt flows, and exposed Province, and Alvord Lake basin, which Province, and Alvord Ecological Provinces of Oregon: Some Representative Views Figure 27-a. This photo and the three following, taken over a 45-year period, document the spread of western

S. juniper in the mainstem John Day River valley near Dayville. This photo was c14 • IL taken in 1920 by a local person.

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Figure 27-b. Taken in 1945 by E. W. Anderson and W. Farrell; the latter was Grant County Extension agent at that time. 1. t47!W

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Figure 27-c. Taken in 1956 by E. W. Anderson and W. Farrell.

ta_be II Ecological Provinces of Oregon: Some Representative Views Figure 27-d. Taken in 1965 by E. W. Anderson and W. Farrell. any-

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Figure 28. A managed natural shrub- grassland on which basin wildrye (the light-color vegetation) is growing in colluvial soils on uplands near Waterman Flat, Wheeler County, in John Day Province, Oregon.

Figure 29. Rangeland on ancient-lake terraces in the eastern portion of Klamath Province, Oregon.

79 Ecological Provinces of Oregon: Some Representative Views Figure 30. Managed natural shrub- grassland on very stony land r" s producing Idaho fescue, low sagebrush, and scattered western juniper in the eastern portion of Klamath Province, Oregon.

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Figure 31. View of Mt. Thielson over snow-covered pumice desert as seen from Crater Lake.

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wi Figure 32. Mt. Thielsen as viewed from Diamond Lake, one of the many natural lakes that receive heavy .., . .Y recreational use in Mazama Province, ''1% a ltn" Oregon.

80 Ecological Provinces of Oregon: Some Representative Views Figure 33. A mantle of aeolian pumice overlying ancient landforms and buried soils typifies Mazama Province in Oregon.

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Figure 34. The ponderosa pine- mixed shrub-bunchgrass zone on

- - C: ry1 o- > 1 } ll.: vy . pumice-loam soils in Mazama S r Province, Oregon. ice

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- - - _. ,amt-.e. -am .,`+' ' : s. Figure 35. A dense, vigorous stand of basin wildrye and Nevada N u 4 + lf I y bluegrass on a bottomland in the I ir M i R vicinity of Jordan Valley in Owyhee Province, Oregon. The man standing in the grass is Bud Town, SCS Range Conservationist.

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Ecological Provinces of Oregon: Some Representative Views '81 Figure 36. Groves of curileaf mountain-mahogany on Mahogany Mountains in the northern portion of Owyhee Province, Oregon.

Figure 37. A mosaic of wedgeleaf ceanothus, Oregon white oak, and grassy openings typifies the nonforested portions of Siskiyou Province, Oregon.

Figure 38. Overview of the steep topography, interspersed valleys, contrasting vegetation cover, and the wide variety of elevations that, together, typify much of Siskiyou Province, Oregon.

Ecological Provinces of Oregon Some Representative Views OL,Cl) Figure 40. A managed shrub- grassland range in Snake River Province, Oregon. Province, Oregon. at about 4,000 feet elevation. River in eastern Baker County terraces, hills and interspersed Snake River Province in Oregon valleys characterize Snake River valleys characterize Figure 41. Prominent ancient-lake Figure 39. Dissected ancient-lake Figure 39. Dissected represent the northern boundary of where it butts into the mountainous Blue Mountain Province (background) Ecological Provinces of Oregon: Some Representative Views dissected terraces north of the Powder Figure 42. A mosaic of natural grasslands and stands of deciduous and coniferous trees typifies The Dalles Province, Oregon.

Figure 43. A relict stand of oak forest on the Finley Wildlife Refuge near Corvallis, in Willamette Province, Oregon.

Figure 44. Agriculture in close proximity to woodland is common in Willamette Province, Oregon.

84 Ecological Provinces of Oregon: Some Representative Views (continued from page 68) tion between Klamath and Siskiyou Siskiyou Province in this area, and the It is possible that more intensive soil provinces follows southward near mixed-pine-mixed-fir plant communi- investigations might reveal distinguish- Grizzly Creek and then down Jenny ties, which typify Klamath Province." able differences at the soil series level Creek to cross Highway 66 near However, the Pokegema-Woodcock between the mixed-fir-hemlock forest Pinehurst. From the vicinity of soil association is associated with the of Cascade Province and the mixed- Pinehurst, the line runs east to south of mixed-pine-mixed-fir forests of pine-mixed-fir forest of Klamath Prov- Parker Mountain and to the Klamath Klamath Province in this area and the ince in the vicinity of this portion of the River where the line veers south to the Skookum-McMullin and McNull- demarcation line. California state line. McMullin soil associations are associ- ated with plant communities including Klamath-Siskiyou Demarcation The line is not based on soil maps. juniper, oak, pine, and wedgeleaf From the juncture of Klamath, Rather, it is the approximateboundary ceanothus in this area, which typify Cascade, and Siskiyou provinces between the area vegetated with Siskiyou Province. Wedgeleaf ceano- southwest of Brush Mountain in easternjuniper,oak,and wedgeleaf ceanothus thus is a key ecological indicator species Jackson County, the line of demarca- plantcommunities, which typify on and sites in Siskiyou Province.

Klamath Ecological Province 85 Mazama Ecological Province

Location The province covers about 5.1 million Crooked rivers join. Most of the Mazama Ecological Province, in acres mainly in Deschutes, Klamath, province lies between 4,000 and 5,000 central Oregon, is entirely within the and Lake counties east of the crest of feet elevation. South Paulina Peak in state. It is the area covered by an the Cascade Range. Minor portions of the northeast part of the province is aeolian deposit of pumice and other the province are near the Cascade crest 8,010 feet elevation; Gearhart Moun- volcanic materials spewed over the in northeast Jackson County, eastern tain in the southeast part is 8,390 feet countryside when Mt. Mazama erupted Douglas and Lane counties, and elevation. Yamsey Butte east of explosively about 6,500 years ago. southeast Linn County and in the Klamath Marsh in the south of the southwest corner of Jefferson County. province is 8,085 feet elevation. Due to prevailing southwesterly winds, the pumice mantle lies primarily north Communities in the province include Many peaks in the western part of the and east of Crater Lake, which is in the Sisters, Redmond, Powell Butte, province, which includes the Cascade of Mt. Mazama. The mantle ex- Brothers, and Bend in the northern part;Range, exceed 8,000 feet elevation. tends about 120 miles north from Crater Lapine, Gilchrist, Crescent, and Che- (Elevations are from USGS 1:250,000 Lake to the area north of Sisters and mult along Highway 97 in the central topographic maps.) They include Mt. Redmond in northern Deschutes part; and Chiloquin and Fort Klamath Scott just east of Crater lake, 8,339 County, about 110 miles northeast to in the south. feet; Mt. Bailey just west of Diamond the vicinity of Brothers in northeast Lake, 8,363 feet; Bachelor Butte Deschutes County, and about 60 miles southwest of Bend, 9,040 feet; and southeast to Gearhart Mountain in Description Broken Top west of Bend, 9,165 feet. western Lake County. The pumice Mazama Province is characterized mantle extends only about 6 miles by sloping and undulating plateaus in The crest of the Cascade Range within southwest of Crater Lake. Also, the the northern and northeastern portions Mazama Province has spectacular western edge of the mantle is about 10 and by hilly to mountainous topogra- peaks including Mt. Thielsen, 9,182 miles west of Crater, Diamond, Cres- phy interspersed with basins throughoutfeet; , 8,744 feet; South cent, and Odell lakes and continues most of its interior and western portion. Sister, 10,430 feet; Middle Sister, northerly about 5 miles west of the Innumerable large and small buttes, 10,053 feet; and North Sister, 10,009 Cascade crest. cones, ridges, and mountains formed byfeet (Fig. 31). volcanism are interspersed across the Other volcanic activities and eruptions, landscape. Fields of raw lava and pum- The western part of the province is such as those related to Newberry ice are common. noted for its numerous mountain lakes Crater, as well as glacial actions have and recreation areas (Fig. 32). Dia- created areas within this province con- The lowest elevation in the province is mond, Lemolo, and Waldo lakes lie sisting of basaltic, andesitic, rhyolitic, about 2,700 feet which is near the west of the Cascade crest; Crescent, and tuffaceous deposits, cinders, and northern province border, south of The Summit, Odell, Wickiup, Davis, Crane glacial till. Peninsula where the Deschutes and Prairie, Cultus, Sparks, and others lie

86 Mazama Ecological Province east of the crest. All are in Mazama very gravelly, coarse pumicy soil that basalt bedrock and rubble. The primary Province. occurs in basins and draws in forested soil series being irrigated is Deschutes uplands. Skellock series is a deep, sandy loam. Klamath Marsh and Sycan Marsh are gravelly, sandy loam that lies on the two significant wetlands in the prov- fringe of marshy areas. ince. The major drainage from the Climate Twelve official weather stations province is via the Deschutes River Lodgepole pine is very likely the represent a cross-section of Mazama which flows north to exit the province climax tree species on Wickiup and Province. Average elevation of the five near The Peninsula northwest of Skellock soils because of its tolerance stations in Deschutes County, which Redmond (Fig. 31). for imperfectly drained, cold sites. The constitute the northern part of the Dilman series is a black, clayey, imper- province, is about 3,900 feet; average fectly drained soil typically associated Soils elevation of seven stations in Klamath with flood plains, such as along the County to the south is about 4,200 feet. The primary upland soils typifying Deschutes River, and with mountain Mazama Province have been developed meadows such as Long Prairie south In contrast to this relatively insignifi- in various combinations of aeolian from Lapine. Pumicey soils on marshes, cant difference in elevation from north pumice and volcanic ash overlying such as Sycan and Klamath marshes, to south within the province, the aver- basaltic bedrock or ancient soils at include soil series such as Chinchallo, age annual precipitation in Deschutes varying depths from about 8 to 10 Yamsay, and Moyina, which are black, County is 14.7 inches but 38.6 inches inches up to about 15 feet. poorly drained soils that may have in Klamath County. Sixty-seven percent Major soil series typifying uplands layers of organic matter in the profile. of annual precipitation in the north include Deschutes and Steiger, which portion falls during winter (November A very small part of Mazama Province generally are relatively thick deposits through March), 26% during the grow- of aeolian pumice. Lapine and Shana- is used for irrigated pasture and crop- ing season (April through July). In the land; such agricultural use is restricted han soil series generally are aeolian south, 77% of annual precipitation is in pumice overlying buried loamy soil at primarily to the area bounded by the winter and 19% in the growing season. communities of Sisters, Redmond, and varying depths to about 40 inches. The north part of the province appar- Pilot Butte on the north and by Alfalfa ently is slightly warmer than the south. Certain major soil series typify bottom- and Bend on the south. Irrigated fields land or topographic basins. Wickiup within this area are somewhat scattered,Maximum and minimum temperatures series is a deep, imperfectly drained, isolated by low ridges and mounds of in January are 39.2 and 15.4°F, respec-

Table 26. Climatic Data for Mazama Ecological Province, Oregon." Station and Precipitation Average maximum and minimum length of record Elevation Annual Nov.-March April-July temperatures (°F) (years) (feet) (inches) (%) (&) January April-July Deschutes County Bend 22 3,599 12.0 64 24 39.9-20.3 65.4-38.6 Fall River Hatchery a 9 4,250 19.1 71 23 38.9-15.4 70.2-31.4 Lapine 10 4,382 14.2 65 29 39.6-12.5 71.6-29.2 Redmond 21 2,982 8.6 58 33 42.1-20.9 73.3-39.5 Wickiup Dam 11 4,330 19.8 76 19 35.6-7.9 66.7-32.9 Klamath County Cascade Summit 15 4,841 49.4 80 17 33.8-20.0 61.4-35.2 Chemult 14 4,750 26.7 78 18 38.6-9.6 69.0-30.1 Chiloquin 17 4,200 17.5 72 23 38.6-14.8 71.1-34.5 Crater Lake 18 6,475 68.4 80 17 33.3-17.0 57.2-33.1 Crescent 8 4,452 19.1 66 23 41.0-11.8 67.9-28.3 Odell Lake 6 4,788 60.4 80 15 30.9-15.5 61.0-34.4 Sand Creek Station 16 4,682 28.4 80 19 36.4-12.6 67.9-31.9 County Averages Deschutes County 14.7 67 26 39.2-15.4 69.4-34.3 Klamath County 38.6 77 19 36.1-14.5 65.1-32.5 Province Average 26.7 72 23 37.7-15.0 67.3-33.4 a On Fall Creek, along Century Drive, about 25 miles southwest of Bend.

Mazama Ecological Province 87 tively, in the north compared to 36.1 Table 27. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends and 14.5°F, respectively, in the south. in Mazama Ecological Province, Oregon. Growing season maximum and mini- Station and mum temperatures follow this pattern: length of record Elevation Average date Average date 69.4 and 34.3°F in the north compared (years) (feet) growth begins* growth ends* with 65.1 and 32.5°F in the south. Deschutes County Bend 22 3,599 March 20 June 30 A precipitation map 53 clearly shows the Fall River broad precipitation patterns in most of Hatchery 9 4,250 April 1 September 23 Mazama Province and the Cascade Lapine 10 4,382 April l l August 3 Range's contribution to overall precipi- Redmond 21 2,982 March 7 May 20 tation. The map shows 145 inches Wickiup Dam 11 4,330 March 27 September 30 annual precipitation in the Klamath County area west of Bend, which is the highest Cascade Summit 15 4,841 April 19 Does not occur precipitation in the province. The map Chemult 14 4,750 April 15 Does not occur also shows about 10 inches annual Chiloquin 17 4,200 April 1 August 9 precipitation at Brothers in the north- Crater Lake 18 6,475 May 7 Does not occur east part of the province. Johnsgard's Crescent 8 4,452 April 3 Does not occur data show 8.6 inches annual precipita- Odell Lake 6 4,788 April 26 Does not occur tion for Redmond weather station, Sand Creek Station 164,682 April 15 Does not occur which likely is the lowest annual * The average date vegetation growth begins on native perennial bunchgrasses is precipitation in the province." approximately the date average daily temperatures reach 39 to 40°F. Average date growth ends is considered to be when available soil moisture is depleted. Interpreta- Vegetation tions are based on data in Johnsgard.17 According to the 1936 State of Oregon Forest Type Map54 which pre- Gearhart Mountain, each of which is geomorphology of residual soils is dates extensive logging activity, about about 8,000 feet or more in elevation. closely related to various landforms 1% of Mazama Province was then natu- and topographic features. ral grassland, mainly in Klamath and It is interesting to note pollen analyses Sycan marshes. About 4% was open that show vegetation on the soils now Consequently, a single upland soil and unforested, likely covered by buried in pumice included many of the series in Mazama Province usually lies sagebrush and bunchgrasses. About tree species still common in the in more than one vegetation zone. 10% was in stands of western juniper. region. 14 Conversely, a single vegetation zone About 20% was in stands of lodgepole may be on more than one soil series. In Mazama Province has the widest range pine, some of which likely represented this situation, the vegetation is much in upland vegetation zones of any of fire scars. less responsive to the relatively uni- Oregon's ecological provinces. These form edaphic factors than it is to the However, some lodgepole stands zones range from the most and (10 prevailing climatic factors or effective undoubtedly represented the current inches or less precipitation) sagebrush/ environment. ecological stage of succession in forest bunchgrass zone in the northeast of the development. These included stands on province to the true fir/hemlock and imperfectly drained depressions and subalpine zones along the top of the Management Implications swales where lodgepole pine is prob- Cascade Range where over 75 inches of Much of Mazama Province is char- ably the climax tree species because of precipitation falls annually. acterized by a pumice mantle overlying its tolerance of imperfectly drained buried landforms, including ancient Vegetation zones in Mazama Province situations and cold temperatures. soils, at depths varying from about 8 to are not as closely related to specific soil 10 inches up to 40 inches or more. Most of the province, about 55% of it, series or to groups of series as in most These buried soils, which are usually was covered by stands of ponderosa other ecological provinces in Oregon. reddish brown stony to nonstony loams, pine with some small areas including This is largely because soil series in are important for ecological and man- Douglas-fir and other minor species. Mazama Province are based primarily agement reasons because they lie in the About 10% of the province was covered on relatively uniform physical charac- vegetation rooting zone and thereby by stands of true fir and hemlock or teristics of the overall aeolian pumice influence overall soil moisture, nutrient subalpine vegetation; this was mainly mantle. The primary parent material of relationships, native species composi- along the top of the Cascade Range. these soil series is unusually uniform tion, and tree growth rates (Fig. 33). Three isolated areas of a true fir- over large areas because of its origin as hemlock forest type were mapped on an aeolian deposit. The result is fewer The overlying pumice mantle also is Paulina Peak, Yamsay Mountain, and soil series per given area than when the important for ecological and manage-

88 Mazama Ecological Province ment reasons. Individual particles of and the more desirable was the ponde- moisture that should be available to pumice soil consist of volcanic glass rosa pine-mixed shrub-bunchgrass plants is utilized. Most of this "surplus" shards which are porous. Consequently, zone (Fig. 34). The Brooks-Scanlon water is contained in the unweathered there are more interstices and angles forester was much impressed with thesepumice layers, and it goes unused prob- that carry water films- capillary water soil-plant relationships and with the ably because roots are almost nonexist- -than are normal in mineral soils of fact that they could be predicted reliably ent in these zones. the same texture in which soil particles merely by interpreting the ecological are solid and rounded. Essentially, indicator species growing on the site. Pumice soils are quite easily modified. porous particles of pumice soil store The changes are noted in characteristics water within as well as on the surface At one time, Weyerhaeuser Company at such as bulk density, moisture-holding of each soil particle; solid soil particles Klamath Falls was having problems capacity, capillary movement of soil in mineral soils store water primarily with survival of planted ponderosa pine water, and soil fertility. Compaction on the surface of each particle. This nursery stock on pumice soils. Appar- resulting from equipment or concentra- beneficially influences the water- ently, this was caused primarily by tions of grazing animals considerably holding capacity and cation exchange desiccation due to porous surface modifies pumice soil. This is evidenced capacity of the pumice-soil profile. layers. Later, an employee solved the by the extremely fine dust common on problem to a degree by planting nurseryroads during dry seasons in Mazama Furthermore, the mantle of pumice stock with 18-inch roots instead of the Province. Fresh pumice fragments overlying a buried soil apparently acts standard 12 inches. brought to the surface will weather as a mulch which produces an effective rapidly, much more readily than any Examples such as these strongly indi- environment more beneficial to vege- other type of volcanic rock. cate that the porous nature of pumice tation. In the most arid, eastern, portion particles and, in general, the Mazama of Mazama Province this is evidenced Dyrness30 emphasized the need to iden- pumice mantle, makes it impossible to by the widespread dominance of Idaho tify and delineate understory plant successfully employ practices and con- fescue, for example, on pumice-mantle communities when mapping pumice cepts used to manage land and vegeta- soils. On nearby areas of loamy soils soils because the presence of a specific tion on conventional mineral soils. without a pumice mantle, in High group of plants sometimes is indicative of soil characteristics that cannot be Desert Province, Thurber needlegrass Pumice soils require special knowledge easily discerned simply by looking at and bluebunch wheatgrass are domi- and attention. An unpublished report3° the soil profile. nant under equivalent climatic condi- pointed out that Mazama pumice soils tions. In this particular area, a pumice were laid down quite recently, geologi- For example, pumice soil in Mazama mantle about 8 to 10 inches thick over cally speaking. Weathering and soil Province that is growing snowbrush buried loamy soil was needed to benefitformation have not progressed very far. contains appreciably more nitrogen and plants' effective environment, accord- So, now most areas have a surface layercalcium than does the soil in bitterbrush ing to an unpublished field study.3z about 12 inches thick, which has under- areas. Also, grass and forb species in an gone weathering and contains incorpo- Another unpublished field study 39 area may indicate imperfect soil drain- rated organic matter, underlaid by made on a tract of Brooks-Scanlon age even though soil-profile character- relatively unweathered pumice. timber land near Bend showed natural istics may be completely devoid of evidence of a seasonally high water regeneration of ponderosa pine on deep Although the weathered surface layers' pumice sands was very unsatisfactory table. This is common on depressions fertility is usually quite satisfactory, the and basins where lodgepole is likely the from a forester's viewpoint, and fresh pumice below is markedly defi- climax tree species. junipers encroached following logging. cient in several nutrient elements, including nitrogen and phosphorus and In contrast, at nearby locations where Soil survey information alone in areas the minor element boron. The unfavor- the pumice mantle was about 20 to 30 of immature pumice soils gives an able nutrient balance may help explain inches thick over a buried loamy soil, inadequate basis for stratifying land for the scarcity of roots in the unweathered ponderosa pine regeneration was excel- timber management. This is because pumice. lent. Furthermore, maturing ponderosa young soils tend to exhibit little change pine trees growing on pumice-loam Pumice soils have unusual moisture in morphological characteristics over large areas even though there may be soils showed a significantly better rate relations. Due to its porous nature, of wood production than those growing pumice soils can retain unusually large marked differences in temperature, on nearby deep pumice sands. quantities of water. However, upward precipitation, and other important capillary movement of water is slow in environmental factors. For this reason, Obviously, two different ecological these zones. Plant roots must grow surveys in Mazama Province should situations were involved in this case. down into the moisture. map both soils and vegetation. The less desirable, from a forestry (continued on page 91) standpoint, was the ponderosa pine- In some areas, on sites that are appar- juniper-bunchgrass vegetation zone, ently quite dry, it appears that not all

Mazama Ecological Province 89 Table 28. Major Ecological Sites and Vegetation Zones in Mazama Ecological Province, Oregon." Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Natural grassland Pumice meadow (less than 10% Nevada, Kentucky, and Cusick bluegrasses, canopy cover threadleaf sedge of shrubs) Mountain meadow Tufted hairgrass, bluegrasses, sedges Wet meadow Sedges, rushes, tufted hairgrass Meadow swale Rushes, sedges Marsh Bullrush, cattail, aquatic plants

Shrub-grassland Deep pumice (10% or more Idaho fescue, Thurber needlegrass/ canopy cover bitterbrush, mountain sagebrush of shrubs) Pumice-loam hills Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, needlegrass/bitterbrush, mountain sagebrush Pumice-loam flat Western needlegrass, Ross sedge/ mountain sagebrush Shallow pumice-loam Idaho fescue, needlegrasses/low sagebrush Gravelly terrace Needlegrasses, Idaho fescue/ Wyoming sagebrush North exposure Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, needlegrass/bitterbrush, Wyoming sagebrush Juniper Juniper pumice hills (5% or more Idaho fescue, needlegrasses/bitterbrush/ canopy cover juniper of mature juniper) Juniper pumice-loam hills Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue/ bitterbrush, juniper Juniper pumice terrace Idaho fescue, needlegrasses/bitterbrush/ juniper Juniper shallow pumice terrace Bluebunch wheatgrass, needlegrasses/ bitterbrush/juniper Juniper south exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Thurber needlegrass/ Wyoming sagebrush/juniper Juniper lavaland Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass/ big sagebrush/juniper Juniper cinder hills Bluebunch wheatgrass/Wyoming sagebrush/ juniper (continued)

90 Mazama Ecological Province Table 28 (cont'd). Major Ecological Sites and Vegetation Zones in Mazama Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Lodgepole pine Lodgepole low gravelly Lodgepole wetland (5% or more Squirreltail, western needlegrass/ Nebraska sedge, meadow barley/lodgepole canopy cover big sagebrush, bitterbrush/lodgepole Lodgepole moist bottom of mature Lodgepole and pumice-loam California oatgrass, blue wildrye/ lodgepole pine) Idaho fescue/big sagebrush, bitterbrush/ mixed shrubs/aspen, lodgepole lodgepole Lodgepole dry bottom Lodgepole high gravelly Onespike oatgrass, bentgrass/bearberry/ Western needlegrass, Ross sedge/lodgepole lodgepole Lodgepole basin Western needlegrass, Ross sedge/bitterbrush/ lodgepole

Coniferous tree Ponderosa pine juniper-bunchgrass vegetation zones Ponderosa pine-bitterbrush-bunchgrass Ponderosa pine-mixed shrubs-bunchgrass Ponderosa pine-mixed fir-mixed shrub Mixed pine-mixed fir Truefir-hemlock

Province Demarcation elevation to the area north of Grassy pattern likely was washed into adjacent Butte. valleys and drainages by subsequent precipitation. Therefore, hilly uplands Mazama-John Day Demarcation Elevation is not as significant in de- in the vicinity of the line of demarca- The first point is at the north marcation between Mazama and John tion between Mazama and John Day boundary near where Deschutes River Day provinces as it is between some provinces help establish the location of exits Mazama Province at what is other provinces. This is because Maza- this line; generally, the flatter land is in locally known as Lower Desert, which ma Province is an ancient landscape Mazama and hilly uplands are in John is where The Dalles, John Day, and covered by an aeolian pumice mantle Mazama provinces join. that is not necessarily affected by Day Province. elevation or landform. It should be From there, the line of demarcation North of Hampton Butte the line turns noted, however, that the pumice depositsouth more or less along the boundary between the Mazama and John Day at the perimeter of the pumice mantle provinces goes southeast along the between the basin and uplands. South- likely was thinner than toward the west of Hampton Butte, Mazama, John Crooked River past Smith Rock and interior of the fallout area. continues across the plateau crossing Day, and High Desert provinces join Highway 126 about 4 miles east of the Unpublished field studies indicate that about 5 miles northwest of Hampton. community of Powell Butte. Powell where about 8 to 10 inches or more of The line between the provinces is based Butte, Redmond, and Terrebonne are in pumice lies over buried soils, herba- on soil lines between Deschutes, ceous vegetation resembles that of the Mazama Province; Smith Rock, Gray Shanahan, and Lapine soil series, Butte, Prineville, and nearly all of the and nonforested portion of Mazama which typify Mazama Province, and National Grasslands are in John Day Province, i.e., bluebunch wheatgrass/ Agency, Madras, and Simas soil series Province. Idaho fescue. Less than 8 to 10 inches which typify John Day Province.70 pumice mantle over buried soils pro- At the mouth of Crooked River canyon duces herbaceous vegetation typical of about 6 miles south of Prineville, the High Desert Province, i.e., bluebunch line between Mazama and John Day Mazama-High Desert wheatgrass/Thurber needlegrass. Obvi- Demarcation provinces essentially follows the west ously, these are not clear-cut differ- The line between Mazama and canyon rim of Crooked River to the ences out on the land because they High Desert provinces crosses High- vicinity of its confluence with Bear occur within a belt of demarcation.3z Creek. From there it continues south way 20 about 8 miles northwest of along the east side of Bear Creek and It also should be noted that Mazama Hampton. From there it wanders then southeast along the breaks of Bear aeolian pumice falling on existing hilly southwest along the north portion of Creek. About 5 miles north of Brothers uplands in a relatively thin mantle Devils Garden and continues southwest the line turns east at about 5,000 feet along the perimeter of the fallout by Cabin Lake Ranger Station, which is

Mazama Ecological Province 91 very near the line, and on to Hole-in- upper Elder Creek to west of Campbell The soil series typifying this ash flow the-Ground, which is in Mazama Lake and south of Deadhorse Rim extension of Mazama is Alcot. Soils in Province. This section of the line is where it turns west along the south- the adjacent Cascade Province are more a belt in which the pumice mantle facing slopes of Gearhart Mountain, in Freeznor and Geppert.68 to the west is generally 8 to 10 inches Mazama Province.84 or more thick over buried soil and From the vicinity of Union Creek com- represents Mazama Province. The area From the area south of Gearhart Moun- munity, the line goes north, crossing the to the east of this belt generally has less tain, the line runs west to North Fork divide between Rogue River and the than 8 to 10 inches of pumice mantle, if Sprague River. From there it snakes its North Umpqua River watersheds just any, and is in High Desert Province. way west more or less near the north east of Buckneck Mountain. From boundary of Sprague River valley. Fer- there, it follows northerly down Clear From Hole-in-the-Ground, the line guson Mountain is in Mazama Prov- Creek, across the plateau at Toketee heads south at about 4,500 feet eleva- ince. From the vicinity of Knott Table- airstrip, and across North Umpqua tion. Where it crosses Highway 31 land, which is in Klamath Province, the River below Toketee Reservoir. It then below the rimrocks northwest from line heads northwest, passing about 5 travels northeasterly to cross the divide Horse Ranch, the highway roadcut miles north of Sprague River commu- between North Umpqua River and the reveals an ancient lakeshore terrace of nity, which is in Klamath Province. headwaters of Middle Fork Willamette layered lacustrine materials, which From there, it goes south and west to River about 5 miles west of the Cas- signifies the boundary of High Desert the vicinity of Chiloquin and south to cade Range crest.91 Province. Lobert Junction. From the headwaters of Middle Fork After the line crosses Highway 31 From the vicinity of Lobert Junction on Willamette River, the line goes north northwest of Horse Ranch, it runs south Highway 97, the line runs north along around the west side of Bear Mountain almost parallel and about 1 to 2 miles the east side of Agency Lake to the and to the Salt Creek canyon where the west of the highway for about 10 miles vicinity of Klamath Agency, which is in Southern Pacific Railroad makes a until it veers south to the vicinity of Mazama Province, then northwesterly switchback out of Salt Creek to pass Halfway Lake and the eastern portion to about 4 miles west of Fort Klamath over the summit of the Cascade Moun- of Antelope Flat. From this point, the along the east side of Klamath Point. It tains just west of Odell Lake, which is line goes east across Buck Creek and is in this vicinity that the juncture be- in Mazama Province. The line wanders Bridge Creek; at this point, at about tween Mazama, Klamath, and Cascade northward west of Waldo Lake and then 4,900 feet elevation, Mazama, High provinces lies. east of Moolack Mountain and around Desert, and Klamath provinces join. the headwaters of the South Fork The line of demarcation between Maza- McKenzie River.93 The line between Mazama and High ma and Klamath provinces is based on Desert provinces is based on soil lines soil lines between Lapine, Shanahan, The Linn County soil map 8° does not between Shanahan and Lapine soil and Kirk-Chock soil series, which provide soil information in the moun- series, which typify Mazama Province, typify Mazama Province, and Wood- tainous east portion of the county. and Gardone, Floke, and Olson soil cock, Hart, and Lorella soil series, Therefore, the line of demarcation series which typify High Desert which typify Klamath Province." between Mazama and Cascade prov- Province. 84 inces in that area is drawn on the basis Mazama - Cascade Demarcation of topographic features apparent on maps showing the line of demarcation From the junction of Mazama, Mazama - Klamath Demarcation to the south of this area. The line of demarcation between Klamath and Cascade provinces north- Mazama and Klamath provinces runs west of Fort Klamath, the line of demar- In Lane and Douglas counties, the south to the area west of Thompson cation between Mazama and Cascade mapped pumice-soil boundary is Reservoir, which is in Klamath Prov- provinces goes northwest, then about 1 primarily along a major topographic ince, then around Sycan Butte, which is to 3 miles south and somewhat parallel-feature: a relatively undulating or in Mazama Province, and along the easting Highway 62 to the vicinity of sloping area to the east, which typifies side of Sycan Marsh, also in Mazama Union Creek community. From this the pumice-soil (Mazama) area, and Province.84 point, the Mazama Province extends relatively steep mountainous terrain to southerly in a valley 2 to 3 miles wide the west (Cascade) which represents From about 5 miles southwest of Sycan lying on each side of Highway 62 from the sharp dendritic drainage pattern of Marsh on the Sycan River, the line Union Creek south to Prospect. This tributaries into the Willamette River. turns east and travels northeast across narrow extension of Mazama Province the headwaters of Sycan River and then appears to be a large ash flow along the It seems reasonable to assume that southeast in the vicinity of Winter upper Rogue River extending south- some pumice from the eruption of Mt. Ridge. From the south portion of Win- west from the main pumice mantle near Mazama fell in the Cascade Mountains ter Ridge, the line goes south across Crater Lake. to the west of the current pumice

92 Mazama Ecological Province mantle. However, because of the steep Junction. The line probably continues Province in this area may be Howash dendritic drainage pattern of head- northeast into Jefferson County north ofand Mackatie, which typify Cascade waters of numerous drainages into the Three Fingered Jack peak and on to Province on the Warm Springs Indian Willamette River, these pumice about where Jefferson Creek joins Reservation. 96 deposits probably have been washed Metolius River. At that point, Mazama, downstream or may still lie in isolated Cascade, and The Dalles provinces deposits mainly on steep north-facing join. Mazama -The Dalles Demarcation exposures within Cascade Province. The line between Mazama and Cascade Where Jefferson Creek joins the Using the previously described topo- provinces in Douglas, Lane, and, likely, Metolius River in southwestern graphic feature as a guide, the demarca-Linn counties is based on soil lines Jefferson County, Mazama, Cascade, tion line is predicted to run north from between Winopee and Shukash soil and The Dalles provinces join. From the headwaters of the South Fork series, which typify Mazama Province, that point, the line of demarcation McKenzie River on around the head- and Holderman and Keel series, which between Mazama and The Dalles waters of McKenzie and South Santiamtypify Cascade Province.9', 93 provinces follows south along Green rivers, near Fish and Lava lakes about Ridge to the east side of Black Butte, where Highway 20 crosses the pass. At the northern boundary of Mazama which is in Mazama Province. From Province, the soil series in Mazama there it meanders east and northeast to From there, the predicted line veers Province may be much like Lapine, Lower Desert, which is the junction of northeast to cross Highway 22 about Deschutes, Shanahan, and Steiger Mazama, The Dalles, and John Day 4 to 5 miles northwest of Santiam pumicey soils."Z Soil series in Cascade provinces.70

Mazama Ecological Province 93 Owhyee Ecological Province

Location Elevations in Owyhee Province in Ore- Two major bottomlands are in Oregon's Owyhee Province in the southeast- gon generally are between 4,000 and portion of the province. These are in em corner of Oregon comprises the 5,500 feet. Highest elevations include the Cow Creek basin and the Jordan western foothills and associated plains Mahogany Mountains at 6,168 feet ele- Creek basin. The Cow Creek basin of the Owyhee Mountains, which are in vation, which is in the northern part of contains about 6,000 acres of very deep southwestern Idaho. In Oregon, this the province, and Oregon Hill at 6,445 silty to clayey soils that are moderately province covers about 1.4 million feet elevation, which is near the Nevada well drained. The Jordan Creek basin acres, all in Malheur County. Owyhee border. (Elevations are from USGS contains about 12,000 acres of very Province extends south into Humboldt 1:250,000 topographic quads, 1958.) deep silty to clayey soils that are mod- County, Nevada and east into Owyhee erately well drained and about 1,300 Some valleys and areas with suitable County, Idaho. acres of very deep clayey soils that are soil are farmed and irrigated, primarily poorly drained.9a for livestock feed. Rangeland strongly Description dominates the province in Oregon, The southern portion of Owyhee which also has small, isolated dry lake Climate Province in Oregon is characterized by basins. The 1941 Yearbook of Agriculture very extensive, very rocky uplands showed no official weather stations in generally sloping down to the west Owyhee Province in Oregon.28 Johns- from the Oregon-Idaho border. This Soils gard" shows one: at Danner, about 15 part of the province, which lies south of Soils of Owyhee Province are re- miles west of Jordan Valley community Highway 95 going west from Jordan lated to very extensive basaltic uplands and north of Highway 95. The station is Valley community, encompasses the associated with the Owyhee Mountains now abandoned. The 22-year record at entire upper watershed of Owyhee in southwestern Idaho that typify the Danner shows an average annual preci- River that lies in Oregon from about 6 province in Oregon. Soils on plains are pitation of 10.6 inches of which 53% miles upriver from the community of moderately sloping, clayey, very stony falls in winter (November through Rome. or rocky, and shallow to very shallow March) and 31% in the herbaceous over basalt bedrock or hardpans. On native-plant growing season (April This portion of the Owyhee River buttes and mountain slopes, soils are through June). watershed is a continuous dendritic relatively steep, loamy, stony, and pattern of basalt-cliff canyons that moderately deep. North of Highway 95 A precipitation map53 shows much of dissect the huge basaltic plain. The and west from Jordan Valley commu- this province in Oregon receives north portion of the province in Oregon nity, basalt flows cover most of the between 10 and 15 inches annual preci- consists of lava fields, a few lake surface on about 107,000 acres. Some pitation. Areas in the western part of basins, and some mountainous areas flows are relatively small, but there are the province, contiguous to Humboldt lying south and east of the major four sizable ones of about 10,000, Province, receive about 10 inches Owyhee River canyon breaks. 16,000, 23,000, and 53,000 acres. precipitation; areas on the east side,

94 Owyhee Ecological Province where the effects of Idaho's Owyhee stream riparian areas includes a variety severely grazed by sheep and cattle Mountains are apparent, receive about of species which signify different over many years.41 It is an ideal 15 inches annual precipitation. degrees of wetness. summer range in an otherwise and area and likely attracted the greatest Average January maximum and mini- Scattered, small, clayey semiwet concentration of grazing animals, mum temperatures at Danner station meadows in areas such as Mahogany including deer. are 37.1 and 12.3°F, respectively, and Mountains are typified by species such the maximum and minimum tempera- as Nevada and Kentucky bluegrasses, The dense stands of younger mahogany tures for April through June are 70.8 meadow sedges, timothy, redtop, and reproduction on north-facing slopes and 35.8°F, respectively. meadow barley, iris, cinquefoil, and in the area suggested that continued yampa. These are natural grasslands. close use over the years resulted in the Vegetation mahogany's encroaching, or increasing, The 1936 Forest Type Map of Oregon s4 on these shrub-covered north expo- In Oregon, vegetation associated shows no stands of western juniper or sures, which are snowdrift locations with the extensive basaltic uplands of other trees in Owyhee Province in Ore- that typically have deep, black silty Owyhee Province is a shrub-grassland gon. This indicates that, if junipers soils. climax type, i.e., with 10% or more were on mountain slopes or buttes in natural canopy cover of shrubs. On the the province at that time, they likely In 1962, the snowdrift areas had extensive sloping stony plains where were scattered. However, a map that produced an overstory of mahogany soils are very shallow, low sagebrush is covers the north portion of Owyhee and an interesting array of plant species the dominant shrub. On buttes and Province in Oregon shows about 2,500 in the understory.41 These included mountain slopes where soils are shal- acres of shrubs and trees on Mahogany shrubs such as bitter cherry and choke- low to moderately deep, Wyoming big Mountains southeast of Malheur cherry, mountain snowberry, snow- sagebrush is the dominant shrub. Blue- Reservoir." brush, mountain spirea, low Oregon- bunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass, grape, big sagebrush (the variety was The shrubs and trees indicated on this and squirreltail are prominent grasses. not noted at that early date but likely map represent groves of curlleaf was mountain big sagebrush), and mountain-mahogany growing at about Native vegetation associated with the mahogany reproduction. well-drained bottoms in Cow and Jor- 5,700 feet elevation (Fig. 36). This is dan creek basins is a natural grassland an interesting ecological phenomenon. Distinctive grass species on these climax type, i.e., with less than 10% Plant species growing here and the sheltered sites included pinegrass; blue canopy cover of shrubs. deep, black silty soils on north expo- and basin wildrye; big, Canby, and sures in this isolated mountainous Wheeler bluegrasses; a dryland sedge; Originally, these bottomlands likely terrain are comparable to other isolated Columbia needlegrass; and Idaho produced a dense, vigorous stand of high-elevation mountains such as Hart fescue. This is an interesting shrub- basin wildrye (Fig. 35).43 Poorly and Steens mountains in High Desert grassland climax type in an isolated drained bottomlands likely produced Province of Oregon. high-altitude location. It also proved to basin wildrye, sedges, rushes, sod be a haven for rattlesnakes. bluegrasses, and other such species that In Mahogany Mountains, some of the tolerate alternating wet and dry periods,oldest mahogany plants are huge. They The 1962 studies of Mahogany Moun- which would occur in this and climate. grow in crevices of basalt bedrock out- tains area41 indicated that the upland crops on ridgetops. One mahogany tree slopes are a shrub-grassland climax Riparian areas in Owyhee Province in measured 18 inches in diameter at 10 type with big sagebrush and green and Oregon are primarily along the peren- inches above ground level and was 20 gray rabbitbrushes as the major shrubs. nial streams in the upper Owyhee River feet high with a crown 25 feet in Predominant grasses include bluebunch system. These streams run in very diameter. One old stump, probably cut and beardless wheatgrasses, Idaho extensive basalt-walled canyons and for firewood by old-time sheepherders, fescue, Columbia and Thurber needle- are relatively inaccessible from con- was about 22 inches in diameter at the grasses, Sandberg and Canby blue- tiguous uplands. Based on the USGS top of the stump, 18 inches above grasses, oniongrass, and squirreltail. 1:250,000 topographic quad map, these ground level. Most of the mahogany Arrowleaf balsamroot was the most canyon-walled perennial streams trees were cut a long time ago, and the prominent forb. extend about 120 miles collectively in remaining stumps show that the Oregon's portion of Owyhee Province. original stand of mature trees, 12 to 24 inches in diameter, were spaced about Management Implications The significance of these riparian areas 10 feet apart.32 No western juniper The southern portion of Owyhee to wildlife is obvious even though there trees were recorded in these studies. Province in Oregon has natural restric- is a myriad of manmade water holes tions on management options: exten- throughout Owyhee Province in By 1962, it was apparent that this high- sive, very stony, shallow-soil series and Oregon. Vegetation in these perennial- elevation, well-watered area had been the many continuous basalt-cliff

Owyhee Ecological Province 95 Table29. Ecological Sites and NaturalLandforms in Owyhee EcologicalProvince,Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristicvegetation & characteristic vegetation Natural grassland Moist bottom (less than 10% Basin wildrye, Nevada bluegrass canopy cover Wet meadow of shrubs) Nevada bluegrass, redtop, sedges, rushes

Shrub-grassland Scabland (10% or more Sandberg bluegrass, squirreltail, bluebunch canopy cover wheatgrass/low sagebrush of shrubs) Arid rolling hills Bluebunch wheatgrass, Thurber needlegrass, Sandberg bluegrass/big sagebrush

Moist rolling hills Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass/ big sagebrush South exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass, Thurber needlegrass/big sagebrush North exposure Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, western needlegrass/big sagebrush Steep north Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass/mountain snowberry, cherry, big sagebrush Shrubby north Pinegrass, basin and blue wildrye, big and Wheeler bluegrasses, Columbia needlegrass/ mixed shrubs Mahogany rockland Bluebunch wheatgrass, Columbia needlegrass, Idaho fescue, Canby bluegrass/ mixed shrubs, curlleaf mountain-mahogany

Naturallandforms: Lavaland, basalt flows, rockland, and canyon escarpments and outcrops canyons along major drainages and management problems in this portion demarcation between Owyhee and tributaries of Owyhee River. of Oregon's Owyhee Province appear Humboldt provinces lies at about 5,000 to be minimized compared with some feet elevation along the western Large grazing units are essentially man-other provinces. boundary of the sloping basaltic dated here, as in High Desert and Hum- plateau, which is in Owyhee Province, boldt provinces in Oregon, but without The ranching element around Jordan and the hilly uplands to the west, which the flexibility of vehicular traffic on Valley seems to be effectively sponsor- are in Humboldt Province. The line roads crisscrossing the country. ing perpetually beneficial programs on continues north along the western edge Recreational activities are similarly both private and public lands. of the plateau to the vicinity of Battle restricted. Creek Ranch and on north at about The BLM Vale Project covered much, Province Demarcation 4,000 feet elevation to about 4 miles if not all, of Oregon's portion of west of Jackie's Butte, in Owyhee Owyhee Province. Consequently, many Province. From northwest of Jackie's rangeland manipulations and improve- Owyhee-Humboldt Demarcation Butte the line of demaracation between ments were made. This benefitted many Beginning at the southwest corner Owyhee and Humboldt Provinces veers resource values such as wildlife, of Owyhee Province in Oregon, which east and north at about 4,000 feet watershed, recreation, water quality, is at the Oregon-Nevada border about elevation to about 7 miles north of and range condition while at the same 13 miles east of where Highway 95 Jackie's Butte where Owyhee, time providing great benefits to crosses the border and about 4 miles Humboldt, and Snake River provinces livestock ranching. As a result, resource southwest of Oregon Hill, the line of adjoin at about 4,000 feet elevation.

96 Owyhee Ecological Province Owyhee-Snake River Arock community, which is in Snake Province. The line of demarcation Demarcation River Province. From the vicinity of continues northeast along the rimrocks From the juncture of Owyhee, Arock, the line follows north and to the north of Mahogany Mountains Humboldt, and Snake River provinces, northeasterly along the rim of Owyhee and east to the vicinity of the aban- the line of demarcation between River canyon at about 4,000 feet doned community of Rockville, in Owyhee and Snake River provinces elevation. It follows along this eleva- Snake River Province. The line meanders north at about 4,000 feet tion, which is the approximate break continues around the Sucker Creek elevation to cross Owyhee River about between the vast basalt plateau and watershed at 4,000 feet elevation north 6 miles upriver from Rome community, scattered hills of Owyhee Province and and then east to cross the Oregon- which is in Snake River Province. the exposed sedimentary and tuffaceousIdaho border about 15 air miles south From this point, the line runs north at materials lying below the rimrocks to of the Snake River. 4,000 feet elevation to the vicinity of the north, which typify Snake River

Owyhee Ecological Province 97 Palouse Ecological Province

Location is farther north, in Washington and cultivation, these soils produced a In Oregon, the Palouse Province northern Idaho. The Palouse is steeply Palouse Prairie natural grassland includes the gently sloping to rolling rolling and hilly. Annual cropping is dominated by Idaho fescue and cultivated area northeast of Pendleton practiced in both locations. resembling the existing natural grass- that surrounds the Pendleton Branch lands near Findley Buttes in Wallowa County. Agricultural Experiment Station and Soils the towns of Adams and Athena. The Major soils of the Palouse Prov- province extends northeast to just north ince in Oregon are Walla Walla silt Climate of Weston and just east of Milton- loam, high-precipitation phase, and Based on data from two official Freewater. It also extends into the state Athena silt loam. These soils were weather stations in the Oregon segment of Washington. In Oregon, it covers formed in aeolian deposits that report- of Palouse Province, the average annual about 112,000 acres, all in Umatilla edly were blown south during the era ofprecipitation for the area is 18.2 inches County. receding glaciers farther north, in of which about 54% falls during winter Washington. and 40% during the growing season of Description adapted farm crops, March through Practically all of this province in Surface layers of Walla Walla high- July. Average January maximum and Oregon is farmed. It is the only sizable precipitation phase are dark grayish minimum temperatures are 38.3 and area in eastern Oregon in which annual brown silt loam about 12 inches thick. 24.1°F, respectively. Average March cropping under dryland conditions is Subsoil is dark brown silt loam about through July maximum and minimum successful, due to the favorable climate 48 inches thick. Depth to basalt temperatures are 71 and 43.5°F, and good soils. Wheat and green peas bedrock or laminated sediments is from respectively. for canning, grown in alternate years, is 40 inches to more than 5 feet. Surface the common crop rotation. However, layers of Athena series are very dark Comparing precipitation and tempera- the climate is suitable for growing otherbrown silt loam about 26 inches thick. tures for the two Palouse Province stations in Oregon and two official crops that require 15 inches or more Subsoil is dark brown silt loam about weather stations in adjacent Columbia annual precipitation. Some areas are 20 inches thick. The substratum is dark Basin Province, very near the line of irrigated by sprinkler. yellowish brown silt loam to more than 5 feet in depth and is commonly demarcation, substantiates significant have evolved Elevations in the Oregon portion of calcareous. reasonswhy darkersoils Palouse Province are mainly between under Palouse Province climate than about 1,350 and 2,000 feet, and the These dark-colorsoilsreflect the under the Columbia Basin Province topography is sloping to rolling or favorableclimate inwhich they were climate (Table 30). The comparison slightly hilly. Oregon's portion of the formed in thick aeolian deposits. They also helps explain why annual dryland province contrasts topographically with are very productive under dryland farming is possible in Palouse Province the area known as the "Palouse" which farming. It is very likely that, before but the climate of Columbia Basin

98 Palouse Ecological Province Table 30. Climatic Data for Palouse Ecological Province, Oregon.17 Station and Precipitation Average maximum and minimum length of record Elevation Annual Oct.-Feb. March-July temperatures (°F) (years) (feet) (inches) (%) (%) January March-July Umatilla County Milton PowerHouse 7 1,350 21.8 53 41 36.1-23.0 70.3-43.8 Weston 21 1,800 19.0 55 40 38.2-24.0 70.0-45.1 PendletonExpt. Sta. 7 1,440 15.9 54 40 40.6-25.2 72.5-41.5 County Average 18.2 54 40 38.3-24.1 71.0-43.5

Stations nearby, in Columbia Basin Province Milton-Freewater20 1,056 13.8 54 41 39.8-25.3 73.9-47.8 Pendleton40 1,070 14.2 54 36 40.5-24.9 73.7-43.2 Nearby Stations'Average 14.0 54 39 40.2-25.1 73.8-45.5

Province requires summer-fallow Palouse Province normally produce an Palouse -Columbia Basin dryland farming. Furthermore, such agricultural crop every year. Demarcation crops as green peas can be grown in From Cayuse, the line between rotation with small grains in Palouse Palouse and Columbia Basin provinces Province, whereas only small grains, Province Demarcation runs west on the bench north of Uma- mainly wheat and barley, are produced tilla River for about 3 miles and then under wheat/summer-fallow farming in Palouse -Blue Mountain veers north across Wildhorse Creek to Columbia Basin Province. Demarcation the vicinity of Helix. Here, the line of The line of demarcation between demarcation is on the line separating Under the relatively mild winter Palouse and Blue Mountain provinces the Walla Walla silt loam high-precipi- temperatures of these two provinces, in Oregon is on the line separating the tation phase, which typifies Palouse the key climatic factor is 15 inches or Athena soil series in Palouse Province Province, from Walla Walla silt loam more of precipitation annually with a from the Waha and Couse soil series in association, which typifies Columbia significant portion of that during the Blue Mountain Province.75 This line is Basin Province.75 About 3 miles north farm crop growing season, i.e., a at about 2,000 feet elevation about 4 of Helix, the line of demarcation heads pattern typical of Palouse Province. miles east of Milton-Freewater. The east at about 2,000 feet elevation to a line continues southwest to just north ofpoint about 2 miles south of Milton- Management Implications Weston and then south and west to just Freewater. From there it turns to the Essentially, all land in Palouse north of Cayuse on the Umatilla River. northeast, passing just east of Milton- Province in Oregon is privately owned; It is in this vicinity that the Palouse, Freewater, to enter the state of Wash- some is owned by Native American Blue Mountain, and Columbia Basin ington. Milton-Freewater is in Colum- families and leased out to established provinces join. bia Basin Province. farming operations. Soil erosion in winter, when some lands are essentially bare and surface layers often are frozen, is a concern because this area lies within a storm pattern that sometimes produces sudden precipita- tion. Sloping lands along the eastern Table 31. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends portion of the province near the Blue in Palouse Ecological Province, Oregon. Mountains are especially susceptible to Station and erosion and sometimes to hail damage length of record Elevation Average date Average date (years) (feet) growth begins* growth ends* during thunderstorms about harvest time in late summer. Umatilla County Milton Power House 7 1,350 February 22 August 14 Annual wheat yields in Palouse Prov- Pendleton Expt. Sta. 7 1,440 March 1 July 15 ince in Oregon are significantly greater Weston 21 1,800 March 1 August 1 than in Columbia Basin Province. In * The average date vegetation growth begins on native perennial bunchgrasses is addition, lands in Columbia Basin approximately the date average daily temperatures reach 39 to 40°F. Average date Province normally produce an agricul- growth ends is considered to be when available soil moisture is depleted. Interpreta- tural crop every other year, but lands in tions are based on data in Johnsgard.17

Palouse Ecological Province 99 Siskiyou Ecological Province

Location elevation in eastern Jackson County are outwash and colluvium from surround- The Siskiyou Ecological Province in Siskiyou Province. ing mountains.59.61 Rocks of Klamath in Oregon encompasses a very small Mountains are considered to be much The South Umpqua River drainage in area in the southwest corner of Klamath older than those in any other part of southern Douglas County is in Siskiyou County, most of Jackson County, the , and the area probably Province upriver from the Highway I-5 southern portion of Douglas County, all contains the oldest geologic formations bridge over the river, which is about 4 of Josephine County, and the mountain- in the state.' miles northwest of Myrtle Creek :)us eastern portion of Curry County. It community. The highest elevation in Siskiyou extends about 100 air miles east to west Province in Oregon is Mt. Ashland at and about 75 air miles north to south in A small portion of Siskiyou Province in7,533 feet, which is about 7 air miles Oregon. Siskiyou Province covers southwestern Klamath and southeasternsouth of the city of Ashland in Jackson about 3.7 million acres in Oregon and Jackson counties is drained south by County. Other high promontories in the extends into California. Klamath River which flows into province in Oregon include Whiskey California. A small area of Siskiyou Peak, 6,497 feet, in the headwaters of Description Province in southeastern Curry County Applegate River, and Chinquapin is drained to the south by Smith River. Siskiyou Province in Oregon is Mountain, 6,155 feet, Soda Mountain, influenced by the mild climate of Siskiyou Province in Oregon includes 6,135 feet, and Table Mountain, 6,125 northern California. Physiographically, extensive mountainous areas of the Kla- feet, all east of Ashland. the portion of the province in Oregon math and Siskiyou mountains and the Most of the mountain promontories in encompasses nearly the entire Rogue western slopes of the Cascade Moun- the province in Oregon are about 5,000 River drainage system, including its tains in which dendritic drainage pat- feet elevation or less. tributaries, the Illinois and Applegate terns are seen in steep terrain (Fig. 37). rivers. Geomorphic features include granitic, The lowest elevation in Siskiyou Prov- The lower Rogue River-about 15 serpentine, schist, volcanic, sedimen- ince in Oregon is on the Rogue River riverbank miles upriver from Gold tary, and intrusive igneous rocks. about 15 riverbank miles upriver from Beach-is in the normal coastal fog Gold Beach. In this vicinity there is a zone and, therefore, in Coast Province. Valleys of the Rogue, Illinois, and series of sharp bends in the river and Headwaters of the Rogue River above Applegate rivers and their major upland topography that, based on about 4,000 feet elevation in northeast- tributaries consist of flood plains, hillside vegetation, apparently diminish ern Jackson County are in Cascade and terraces, alluvial fans, and low hills the effects of the normal coast fog zone Mazama provinces. However, tributar- which formed through geologic erosion penetration farther upstream. This ies to the Rogue below about 4,000 feet and extensive deposition of alluvial elevationis lessthan 100 feet.

100 Siskiyou Ecological Province Soils Mountains in Josephine and Curry vary according to location within the The geomorphology of soils counties, each of which is significantly province (Table 32). different from the others. typifying Siskiyou Province in Oregon The data in Table 32 reflect the fact that involves a wide variety of parent Soil parent materials in Siskiyou Prov- soils derived from igneous materials in materials ranging from geologically ince can be grouped into six general Siskiyou Province in Oregon have been recent alluviums in valleys to what is categories: soils formed in materials mapped only in Jackson County. thought to be the oldest geologic for- weathered from igneous rocks; sedi- mations in the state. This is further Based on field studies, the soils were mentary, sandstone, and siltstone rocks; complicated by the presence within the mapped primarily in eastern Jackson altered sedimentary and igneous rocks; County where the line of demarcation province of the lower western slopes of granitic rocks; serpentine rocks; and Cascade Mountains in southeastern lies between Siskiyou and Cascade and schist rocks .11,61,91,95 Douglas and eastern Jackson counties, Klamath provinces, both with extensive of the Siskiyou Mountains in southern Each of these six categories includes a igneous formations. Soils derived from Josephine County, and of the Klamath distinct group of soil series which may sedimentary, sandstone, and siltstone

Table 32. Parent Materials and Distribution of Some Representative Soil Series in Siskiyou Ecological Province, Oregon.56, 59, 61, 95 Oregon counties Oregon counties m a) C C: C c°n 0 0 arent material Cl) arent material 0U 0 cz 0 and soil series U o n and soil series 0 0 5 Igneous Altered sedimentary and igneous(continued) Bybee x Rilea x Carney x Skymore x Farva x Speaker x x Medco x Stackyards x McMullin x Vannoy x x McNull x Vermise x x Pinehurst x Vourhies x Rustlerpeak x Yorel x Skookum x Granite Tatouche x Crannier x Sedimentary, sandstone, and siltstone Goodwin x Atring x Rogue x Brader x Shefflein x Debinger x Siskiyou x x Kanid x Tallowbox x Langellain x Tethrick x x Wolfpeak x Altered sedimentary and igneous Acker x Serpentine Althouse x x Cedarcamp x Beal x Cornutt x Beekman x x x Dubakella x Bravo x Eightlar x Caris x Gravecreek x Cassidy x Greggo x Colestine x Mislatnah x Frisland x Perdin x Jayar x x Josephine x x x Schist Lettie x Barkshanty x Manita x Deadline x Norling x Nailkeg x Offenbacher x Saddlepeak x Pollard x x Scalerock x (continued) Threetrees x

Siskiyou Ecological Province 101 rocks have been mapped in Jackson andthe subsoils. Soil formed in materials dramatic gradient occurs north to south, Curry counties. Soils derived from weathered from granitic rock, however, from the mild, moist southern Willam- altered sedimentary and igneous are loamy and sandy. These factors ette Valley to the warm dry climate of materials have been mapped in Dou- have significant impact on erodibility, northern California. glas, Jackson, Josephine, and Curry potential natural vegetation cover, and counties; these parent materials exist responses to management strategies. Such regional climatic gradients are over a major portion of Siskiyou further complicated by mountainous Province in Oregon. Soils derived from topography of the Cascade, Siskiyou, granitic rock have been mapped in Climate and Klamath mountains within the Jackson and Josephine counties. The climate of Siskiyou Province province which produce a wide variety Granitic parent materials appear as low in Oregon is the most diverse of all the of local climatic gradients such as as about 800 feet (Siskiyou soil series) ecological provinces in Oregon. between Ashland at 1,750 feet elevation to about 7,000 feet elevation (Crannier Dramatic climatic gradients are and Mt. Ashland at 7,503 feet elevation soil series), both in Josephine County. common. One such gradient extends just 7 air miles south of Ashland. Soils derived from serpentine materials from the normal coastal fog zone, have been mapped in Josephine and where average minimum January A precipitation map53 shows the highest Curry counties. These soils are very temperatures are about 40°F and average annual precipitation in Siski- high in magnesium and very low in average annual precipitation is about 80you Province in Oregon is about 160 calcium, which limits plant growth and inches, eastward over the crest of inches. This is on the crest of Klamath results in the growth of specific plant Klamath Mountains where precipitationMountains about 10 air miles west of species that apparently can tolerate this exceeds 125 inches annually, to interior Cave Junction and about 30 air miles radical imbalance of soil nutrients. valleys such as at Medford where inland from the Pacific Ocean. This average minimum January temperatureshigh country, about 4,000 to 4,500 feet In general, the soils of Siskiyou Prov- are about 27°F and average annual elevation, is a portion of a precipitation ince in Oregon are clayey, especially in precipitation is about 20 inches. A less zone receiving over 125 inches annu-

Table 33. Climatic Data for Siskiyou Ecological Province, Oregon." Station and Precipitation Average maximum and minimum length of record Elevation Annual Oct.-Jan. Feb.-June temperatures (°F) (years) (feet) (inches) (%) (%) January Feb.-June Curry County Illahe 13 176 85.8 60 37 45.8-34.6 64.4-41.8 Douglas County Glendale 13 1,441 37.7 57 40 47.1-31.8 65.1-38.2 Riddle 17 700 30.5 58 38 48.3-38.2 66.3-40.0 Jackson County Ashland 22 1,750 20.1 53 41 45.3-29.3 64.1-39.2 Hillcrest orchard 17 1,595 17.4 53 39 45.4-29.7 66.2-38.6 Jacksonville 17 1,640 24.1 54 41 42.8-30.7 63.8-40.2 Lake Creek 16 2,000 29.6 49 46 46.1-28.4 64.8-36.7 Medford 15 1,457 20.6 56 38 44.7-27.1 65.3-34.4 Modoc orchard 22 1,270 22.6 59 37 45.9-28.1 67.8-37.8 Siskiyou 6 4,125 34.0 53 40 37.0-26.3 55.5-35.5 Talent 22 1,550 19.1 53 40 44.9-29.2 65.5-39.1

Josephine County Grants Pass 21 925 30.1 60 36 45.7-31.3 68.5-39.3 Sexton Summit 29 3,836 30.9 55 39 41.6-30.0 54.7-35.8 Waldo 15 1,650 52.1 53 42 44.1-28.3 62.9-36.1 Williams 34 1,368 31.7 58 38 50.3-29.7 65.4-36.0 Wolf Creek 8 1,274 40.9 58 40 45.8-31.4 65.9-37.8 County Averages Curry County 85.8 60 37 45.8-34.6 64.4-41.8 Douglas County 34.1 58 39 47.7-32.5 65.7-39.1 Jackson County 23.4 54 40 44.0-28.6 64.1-37.7 Josephine County 37.1 57 39 45.5-30.1 63.4-37.0

Province Average 45.1 57 39 45.8-31.7 64.4-38.9

102 Siskiyou Ecological Province ally. The zone extends about 45 air Table 34. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends miles, from near the California border in Siskiyou Ecological Province, Oregon. north to about 10 miles east of Illahe, Station and which is on Rogue River. length of record Elevation Average date Average date (years) (feet) growth begins* growthends* According to this precipitation map, Curry County Mt. Ashland, the highest promontory in Illahe 13 176 winter growing Does not occur Siskiyou Province in Oregon, receives about 65 inches average annual precipi- Douglas County1 tation. The major portion of Siskiyou Glendale 13 1,441 winter growing Does not occur Does not occur Province in Oregon receives between Riddle 17 700 winter growing 20 and 50 inches average annual Jackson County precipitation. Ashland 22 1,750 February 1 August 2 Hillcrest orchard 17 1,595 February 1 July 14 Jacksonville 17 1,640 February 7 August 25 Vegetation Lake Creek 16 2,000 February 1 Does not occur The Siskiyou Province in Oregon Medford 15 1,457 February 7 August 8 is defined in terms of vegetation as Modoc orchard 22 1,270 February 1 August 5 generally that area in southwestern Siskiyou 6 4,125 March 5 Does not occur Oregon that is affected by the warm Talent 22 1,550 February 1 July 24 climate of northern California to the Josephine County extent that certain plant species com- Grants Pass 21 925 January 19 Does not occur mon in California grow there but only Sexton Summit29 3,836 March 15 Does not occur rarely, if at all, in other Oregon ecologi- Waldo 15 1,650 February 7 Does not occur cal provinces. These species include Williams 34 1,368 January 23 Does not occur wedgeleaf ceanothus, whiteleaf and Wolf Creek 8 1,274 January 22 Does not occur hoary manzanita, boxleaf silktassel, 1 The Douglas County stations represent the transition zone between Willamette and California buckthorn, California-laurel, Siskiyou provinces. California black oak, Sadler oak, can- * The average date vegetation growth begins on native perennial bunchgrasses is yon live oak, huckleberry oak, tanoak, approximately the date average daily temperatures reach 39 to 40°F. Average date Jeffrey and knobcone pine, Port-Orford- growth ends is considered to be when available soil moisture is depleted. Interpreta- cedar, and Brewer spruce. tions are based on data in Johnsgard.'7

Pacific madrone, which also occurs to a minor degree in Willamette Province to and eastern portions of Siskiyou Prov- tree in both Siskiyou and Coast prov- the north, is abundant and ubiquitous, ince in Oregon, poison-oak, wedgeleaf inces in Oregon, indicate a subtle but except in high-elevation, cold-climate ceanothus, whiteleaf manzanita, and a visible difference in the species accord- conditions, in conifer forest plant com- wide variety of other shrub species ing to which province it is in. In the munities throughout most of Siskiyou dominate disturbed plant communities. more moist Coast Province, Douglas-fir Province in Oregon. Madrone is espe- There is a very wide variety of shrub usually have moss growing on them; in cially abundant as a shrub on disturbed species within Siskiyou Province, the drier Siskiyou Province, moss is forested areas. especially on forested sites. scarce or absent. Plant communities in southeast Siski- Golden chinkapin, Pacific madrone, Changes in vegetation that are related you Province in Oregon include some tanoak, California-laurel, and canyon to higher elevations begin at about species that typify the adjoining Kla- live oak are species that are shrubs in 3,000 feet; the snow zone begins at math Province and much of eastern and effective environments or in snow about 4,000 feet. Plant species gener- Oregon in general. This can be attrib- zones but are trees in warm, moist ally associated with snow zones include uted to the southern termination of effective environments such as north- Douglas-fir, white fir, sugar pine, and Cascade Province in this area about 10 facing exposures. Brewer spruce, with understory species such as prince's-pine, Sadler oak, com- air miles north of the California border Madrone, tanoak, and canyon live oak mon snowberry, and Cascade Oregon- at about 5,500 feet elevation. This are examples of Siskiyou shrubs that grape. Above about 5,000 feet elevation leaves a lower-elevation gap through readily sprout after being injured by the colder climate is signalled by a which plant species such as bitterbrush, cutting or burning, thereby becoming dominance of white fir, Shasta red fir, birchleaf mountain-mahogany, and significantly competitive with other and mountain hemlock. western juniper apparently have plant species and causing severe extended their range from east to west. restrictions in resource management Observations of Douglas-fir, the most There is only a mild climatic barrier strategies. In lower elevations of centraldominant and widespread coniferous between Siskiyou and Klamath prov-

Siskiyou Ecological Province 103 inces in the topography traversed by somewhat related to the nature of soils Management Implications Highway 66 from Klamath Falls to formed in materials weathered from Siskiyou Province is the most Ashland. Consequently, the transition various kinds of geological formations. complex ecological province in Ore- from one province to the other is a belt: gon, especially from a resource manage- the line of demarcation is a judgment Table 35 shows the distribution of ment standpoint. call based primarily on the presence of prominent woody-plant species by geo- such Siskiyou Province species as Ore- graphic areas-counties-and various Diverse geological formations result in gon white oak and wedgeleaf ceano- soil parent materials. an unusually wide variety of soil parent thus. Vegetation characteristics of Sis- materials, each having inherent features kiyou Province cited here are based on Only woody species are cited because that affect local resource management unpublished field studies .16, 37, 39, 51 shrubs and trees are reliable indicators strategies. The variable climate of the of average climatic conditions that haveprovince, which ranges from near- Temperature and the amount and timing prevailed over long climatic cycles. coastal to and interior valleys to near- of precipitation are primary factors in Obviously, species listed grow on soil alpine, also has great influence on variability of local effective environ- parent materials other than as noted in resource management strategies. ments. Undoubtedly they also are majorTable 35. However, the species listed influences in the geographical distribu- were selected by members of the soil The situation is further complicated by tion and abundance of certain plant survey party as being prominent com- the diverse assemblage of plants which species within Siskiyou Province in ponents of plant communities growing includes species that are representative Oregon. However, geographic distribu- on soil series formed in the various of contiguous provinces including the tion of certain plant species also is parent material s.56, 59, 61 Klamath area of eastern Oregon, the

Table 35. Distribution of Prominent Woody-plant Species by County and Soil Parent Materials in Siskiyou Ecological Province, Oregon.7, 51, 54, 56 Upland soil parent materials and the counties in which they are found* Sedimentary, Altered sandstone, sedimentary igneous sutstone & igneous uranite Serpentine Schist

CZ Prominent plant species -, -' 0 U CZ -, -0 0 Alder, red x x Azalea, western x Bitterbrush, antelope x Blackberry, trailing x California-laurel x x Ceanothus, deerbrush x x x x x Ceanothus, snowbrush x x Ceanothus, squawcarpet x Ceanothus, wedgeleaf x x x Cedar, western red x x Chinkapin x x x x Dogwood, Pacific flowering x x x x x Douglas-fir x x x x x x x x x x x Fir, grand x x Fir, Shasta red x x x Fir, white x x x x x Hazel, western x x x x Hemlock, western x x Huckleberry, evergreen x x Huckleberry, red x Incense-cedar x x Juniper, western x Madrone, Pacific x x x x x x x x Manzanita, greenleaf x x Manzanita, pinemat x x Manzanita, whiteleaf x x x x (continued)

104 Siskiyou Ecological Province lower western slopes of the Cascade has strong influence on resource man- forested plant communities include a Mountains,the southern portion of the agement strategies. Some of the species, wide variety of nonaggressive shrubs WillametteValley,the lower southeast such as tanoak and Pacific madrone, that help provide the necessary layering slopes of the Coast Range, the coastal are trees under certain, favorable condi- in the canopy cover, benefitting water- fogzone,and, most significant, the tions but are aggressive shrubs under shed quality and tree regeneration. warm climate of northern California. other conditions. Furthermore, some These shrubs also provide nutritious Siskiyou shrub species are strongly forage important for food and cover for Resource management strategies are prolific when damaged by burning, wildlife and domestic livestock. It is also complicated by the topographic logging, overgrazing, or other activity noteworthy that cattle accustomed to pattern of interspersed valleys, low that damages the shrubs or the site. grazing Siskiyou-type plant communi- hills, dendritic drainage patterns with This results in areas of dense shrubs ties use an unusual amount of browse steep slopes and very contrasting north that hinder most remedial resource in their diets by choice, even when and south exposures, and a wide range management activities designed to adequate herbaceous forage is readily of elevation patterns (Fig. 38). obtain natural rehabilitation and growth available. of desirable plant species. A preponderance of shrubby species in The extent and pattern of public and nearly all natural plant communities, Not all shrubs in Siskiyou Province private land ownership is another typical of Siskiyou Province in Oregon, have undesirable characteristics. Many important feature of Siskiyou Province

Table 35 (cont'd). Distribution of Prominent Woody-plant Species by County and Soil Parent Materials in Siskiyou Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland soil parent materials and the countiesin which theyare found* Sedimentary, Altered sandstone, sedimentary Igneous & siltstone & igneous Granite Serpentine Schist

co Ca U Prominent plant species U `-° - U -- - U Maple, Rocky Mountain x Mountain-mahogany, birchleaf x Oak, California black x x x x x x x Oak, canyon live x x x x x x Oak, huckleberry x x x Oak, Oregon white x x x x Oak, Sadler x x Oceanspray x x x x x x x x x Oregon-grape, Cascade x x x x x x x x x Oregon-grape, tall x x x x Pine, Jeffrey x x Pine, knobcone x Pine, lodgepole x Pine, ponderosa x x x x x x Pine, sugar x x x x x x Pine, western white x Poison-oak, Pacific x x x x x x x x Port-Orford-cedar x x x Prince's-pine, western x x x Rhododendron, Pacific x x x x Rose, baldhip x x x x x Salal x x x x Serviceberry, Pacific x x x x Silktassel, boxleaf x Snowberry, common x x x x x x x Tanoak x x x x x x Whipplevine x x x Yew, Pacific x * Jac. = JacksonJos. = JosephineCur. = Curry

Siskiyou Ecological Province 105 Table 36. Some Major Ecological Sites in Siskiyou Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Natural grassland Foothill south exposure Dry meadow (less than 10% Bluebunch wheatgrass, Lemmon needlegrass California oatgrass, pine bluegrass, yampa canopy cover Mountain south exposure Semiwet meadow of shrubs) Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, California oatgrass, sedge, buttercup pine bluegrass Wet meadow High mountain grassland zone Tufted hairgrass, sedges, false-hellebore Several sites not yet described

Shrub-grassland Shrubby scabland (10% or more Bluebunch wheatgrass, Lemmon needlegrass/ canopy cover wedgeleaf ceanothus of shrubs) High mountain shrub zone Several sites not yet described are typified by sagebrushes, curlleaf mountain-mahogany, greenleaf manzanita

Deciduous tree Oak-mahogany-fescue Hardwood bottomland (5% or more Idaho fescue/birchleaf mountain-mahogany/ Blue wildrye, Kentucky bluegrass/many canopy cover white oak shrubs/cottonwood, Oregon ash, black and of trees) Oak-fescue white oaks Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, pine bluegrass/white oak

Mixed deciduous- Oak-pine-oatgrass Pine-oak bottomland coniferous tree California oatgrass/minor shrubs/white and Idaho fescue/mixed shrubs/ponderosa pine/ (5% or more black oaks, ponderosa pine black and white oaks canopy cover Pine-oak-fescue of trees) Idaho fescue/mixed shrubs/ponderosa pine, white and black oaks (continued) in Oregon that has major implications ceanothus, and abundant madrone, From the vicinity of Pinehurst, the line on resource management strategies. which strongly dominates logged or runs north up Jenny Creek and inter- otherwise disturbed forested areas. sects the juncture of Siskiyou, Klamath, About 75% of Siskiyou Province in and Cascade provinces at about 5,000 Oregon is publicly owned and is ad- Province Demarcation feet elevation west of Brush Mountain, ministered by the U.S. Forest Service which is in Cascade Province. and the Bureau of Land Management. Siskiyou - Klamath Demarcation Also, except for the major valley area The demarcation line between Siskiyou The line of demarcation between around Ashland and Medford, nearly all and Klamath provinces in this area is Siskiyou and Klamath provinces begins private lands are in an alternate-section not based on soil maps. Rather, the line at the Oregon-California border in checkerboard pattern with BLM lands. is the approximate boundary between southwestern Klamath County on the That land pattern further complicates the area vegetated with plant communi- east side of Klamath River. At this relationships and interdependencies that ties that include oak and wedgeleaf point, the line coincides reasonably well are basic considerations in resource ceanothus, which typify Siskiyou Prov- with the soils line between Pinehurst, management strategies. ince in this area, and the mixed-pine- Greystoke, and Bly soil mapping units, mixed-fir plant communities which Broad vegetation characteristics differ- which represent Klamath Province, and typify Klamath Province." entiate between Willamette and Siski- Skookum-McMullin soil map unit, you provinces. For example, uplands which represents Siskiyou Province." However, the Skookum-McMullin and below about 1,300 feet in southern Wil- The line travels up Klamath River McNull-McMullin soil map units are lamette Province are typified by bigleaf about 5 miles and then meanders west generally associated with plant commu- maple, Oregon white oak, scotchbroom, to the Jackson-Klamath county line at nities that include white oak, ponderosa and some Pacific madrone. Equivalent about 4,000 feet elevation where it goespine, and wedgeleaf ceanothus, which uplands in Siskiyou Province are typi- northwest to pass close by Pinehurst on typify Siskiyou Province in this area, fied by California black oak, wedgeleaf Highway 66. and the Pokegma-Woodcock soil map

106 Siskiyou Ecological Province Table 36 (cont'd). Some Major Ecological Sites in Siskiyou Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Coniferous tree Open stands (5% or more Pine-Douglas-fir-fescue canopy cover California and Idaho fescue/many shrubs, of mature trees) ponderosa pine, Douglas-fir, madrone Mixed pine-Douglas-fir-fescue Idaho fescue/mixed shrubs/ponderosa and sugar pines, Douglas-fir, madrone Douglas-fir-mixed pine-fescue California and western fescue/many shrubs/ Douglas-fir, ponderosa and sugar pines, madrone Mixed fir-mixed pine-sedge Ross sedge/many shrubs/Douglas-fir, white fir, ponderosa and sugar pines, madrone Dense stands Douglas-fir forest Many shade forbs/many shrubs/Douglas-fir, madrone, black oak Douglas-fir-madrone forest Many shade forbs/many shrubs/Douglas-fir, madrone, white fir Mixed fir forest Many shade forbs/many shrubs/Douglas-fir, white fir, black oak, ponderosa and sugar pines Mixed fir-dogwood forest Many shade forbs/dense shrubs/white fir, Douglas-fir, Pacific dogwood High white fir forest Many shade forbs/mixed shrubs/white fir High mixed fir-hemlock forest White fir, Shasta red fir, mountain hemlock units which are associated with the plant communities dominated by Tater Hill, the line veers northwest to mixed-pine and mixed-fir forest of Kla- Douglas-fir, grand fir, sugar pine, and White Rock at about 3,000 feet math Province in this area.61 Wedgeleafponderosa pine, which represent elevation and on to Lane Mountain ceanothus is a key indicator species of Siskiyou Province, and forested plant where Siskiyou, Cascade, and Siskiyou Province and sites. communities dominated by mountain Willamette provinces join. hemlock and true firs, which represent Siskiyou - Cascade Demarcation Cascade Province.50 The line between Siskiyou and Cascade provinces in the vicinity of South Ump- The line of demarcation between From where the line crosses Highway qua River is based on the presence of Siskiyou and Cascade provinces wan- 62 near Prospect, it runs northward western hemlock in Cascade Province ders north from the vicinity of Brush around the headwaters of Elk Creek forested plant communities and on a Mountain at about 5,500 feet elevation and South Umpqua River at about lack of western hemlock in the more to Fish Lake and along the western 4,000 feet elevation. and forested plant communities of slopes of Mt. McLoughlin, which is in Siskiyou Province. Cascade Province. The line continues The line turns west around headwaters north in the headwaters of Big Butte of tributaries of South Umpqua River, The line is supported in this area by Creek and its tributaries, on to Rustler which are in Siskiyou Province, at such soil series as Holderman and Keel, Peak, and then northwest to cross Rogue about 3,500 feet elevation. Conse- which represent Cascade Province,91 River and Highway 62 about 6 miles quently, the south- and west-facing and Lettia, Beal, Acker, Kanid, and below the community of Prospect. The slopes along South Umpqua River are Atring series, which represent Siskiyou line in this area is based on forested in Siskiyou Province. In the vicinity of Province.95

Siskiyou Ecological Province 107 Siskiyou-Willamette Demarcation nitely associated with Siskiyou Prov- species that signify warmer and drier From the junction of Siskiyou, Cas- ince include Speaker, Josephine, Lettia, conditions typifying the western part of cade, and Willamette provinces on Lane and Beal series. Siskiyou Province. The line also is Mountain about 10 air miles east of indicated by the general presence of Broad vegetation characteristics differ- Roseburg in Douglas County, the line such forested soils as Preacher, Bohan- entiate between Willamette and Siski- between Siskiyou and Willamette prov- non, Digger, and Umpcoos, which you provinces. For example, uplands inces goes southwest down the ridge to typify Coast Province,60 and the soil below about 1,300 feet elevation in Brushy Butte and Dodson Mountain to series Atring, Kanid, Acker, Beekman, southern Willamette Province are typi- cross South Umpqua River at the Inter- Pollard, and Vermisa, which typify fied by the common presence of bigleaf state 1-5 bridge over the river about 4 Siskiyou Province in this vicinity.56 air miles northwest of Myrtle Creek maple, Oregon white oak, scotchbroom, Around Lobster Hill, the line intersects community. 36,16,91 and some Pacific madrone. Equivalent uplands in Siskiyou Province are typi- the upper boundary of the normal coas- From the 1-5 bridge, the line follows fied by California black oak, wedgeleaf tal fog zone at about 1,200 feet. This the southern border of bottomlands ceanothus, and abundant madrone, boundary coincides with the line be- along South Fork Umpqua River and which strongly dominates logged or tween provinces from this area south to Olalla Creek at about 600 feet eleva- otherwise disturbed forested areas. the California border. Several sharp tion. From there it veers south up the bends in Rogue River near Lobster Hill ridge separating drainages flowing west apparently hinder the normal fog zone Siskiyou -Coast Demarcation into lower Olalla Creek, in Willamette boundary from extending farther Province, from drainages flowing north, From the junction of Willamette, upriver. The line of demarcation, which are in Siskiyou Province, to Big Siskiyou, and Coast provinces in the therefore, crosses Rogue River between Baldy Mountain about 4 air miles vicinity of Chipmunk Ridge in south- Lobster Hill and Skookumhouse Butte. northwest of Riddle community. west Douglas County, the line between Siskiyou and Coast provinces goes The line-the upper boundary of the From Big Baldy Mountain the line goes south at about 3,000 feet elevation to coastal fog zone-continues at about southwest along the ridgetop at about Dutchman Butte. It follows Hayes 1,200 feet around the headwaters of 2,500 feet elevation past Buck Moun- Ridge southwesterly and south to Nine- Quosatana Creek and west around tain to Table Mountain where it curves mile Mountain and continues south- Kimball Hill. It goes southwest, some- north to circle the headwaters of Olalla westerly at about 3,000 feet elevation what parallel to Rogue River, and then Creek, in Siskiyou Province. The line to north of Kelsey Peak in northeastern south at about 1,200 feet. It winds up follows the ridge from Live Oak Moun-Curry County. From there, the line and around the headwaters of Hunter tain southwest to Chipmunk Ridge, wanders west to Big Meadows vicinity Creek, west of Sundown Mountain, up where the junction of Siskiyou, and then north, west, and southwest at and around headwaters of Pistol River Willamette, and Coast provinces lies. about 3,000 feet elevation around the and its tributaries, of Chetco River and upper Mule Creek watershed. It followsits tributaries, and of Winchuck River The line between Siskiyou and Willam- Panther Ridge southwesterly at about and its tributaries at about 1,200 feet." ette provinces, which is about 70 miles 2,000 feet elevation close to the Coos- It crosses from Oregon into California long, is not always clear-cut in terms of Curry county line. about 8 air miles east of the ocean. soil or vegetational differences. Both provinces have arid, warm climatic From this point, the line extends south From the area east of Lobster Creek, conditions though Siskiyou is relatively along the east slopes of Ophir Moun- which is a tributary of Rogue River, more and and warm than Willamette tain and Brushy Mountain at about and south to the California border, the Province. 2,000 feet elevation. Near Lake of the line is based on the presence of Sitka Woods Mountain the line goes south- spruce, red alder, Douglas-fir, western The line was selected by using data west to Soldier Camp Mountain, Sec- hemlock, and other species that typify shown on the 1993 Preliminary Generalond Prairie Mountain, and First Prairie the cool, moist fog zone coastal climate Soil Map, Douglas County, Oregon95 Mountain while decreasing in elevation compared to the common tanoak, which covers the area where these two from about 2,000 feet at Soldier Camp Pacific madrone, and related species provinces join. The line was drawn Mountain to about 1,200 feet near Lob- that signify the warmer, drier condi- between upland soils that have been ster Hill just north of Rogue Rivers' tions of Siskiyou Province. The line also mapped definitely within Willamette is indicated by the general presence of Province to the north and upland soils The line in northeastern and north- such soils as Bosland, Floras, Milli- that have been mapped in other areas central Curry County is based primarily coma, and Reedsport, which typify definitely within Siskiyou Province. on the elevation at which western Coast Province in this area, and Frits- Upland soils definitely associated with hemlock is a common component of land, Bravo, Mislatnah, and Pollard soil Willamette Province include Oakland, forested uplands in Coast Province, series which typify Siskiyou Province Sutherlin, Nonpariel, Philomath, and compared to the common appearance of in this area.56 Dixonville series. Upland soils defi- tanoak, madrone, and other plant

108 Siskiyou Ecological Province Snake River Ecological Province

Location North PowderValley,Burnt River the terrace materials in which they were This province in Oregon includes Valley,and the extensive valley around formed. Some are very gravelly, some the western portion of the huge Snake Vale,Ontario,andNyssa.Some low- are stony, some are nonstony. Most of River basin that extends east across lying terraces are irrigated in the Vale- these terrace soils have medium- to southern Idaho. In Oregon, the prov- Ontariovicinity,near North Powder, fine-texture surface layers and clayey ince covers about 4.9 million acres, around the north and west perimeter of subsoils. Depths vary from shallow to mainly in Malheur and Baker counties BakerValley,and in EagleValley. deep, and soils may be underlaid by but with small segments in Harvey, hardpans. Elevations within Snake River Province Grant, and Union counties. It extends are mostly between 3,000 and 5,000 A good example of ancient-terrace soils eastward into Idaho. feet. The lowest point, about 1,800 feet,underlaid by hardpans can be studied is at Copperfield on the Oxbow of on Highway 86 roadcuts in the vicinity Description Snake River where it exits this provinceof Virtue Flat about 12 miles east of Snake River Province of Oregon is and enters Blue Mountain Province to Baker City. typified by extensive dissected terraces the north in upper Hells Canyon. High formed in ancient lakes. These terraces promontories within Snake River Soils formed on mountain slopes may are geologically eroded to the point thatProvince include Mahogany Mountain be shallow to deep, nonstony to very they appear as plateaus, basins, low at 6,524 feet, about 14 miles northeast stony. They usually have medium- rolling hills, and prominent hills sepa- of Sheaville in Malheur County; Bald texture surface layers and clayey rated by sharp dendritic drainage Mountain at 6,683 feet, about 15 miles subsoils. patterns. Mountainous terrain is inter- south of Baker City in Baker County; Soils in valleys are usually deep, of spersed throughout most of the prov- Castle Rock at 6,847 feet, about 8 miles medium texture, moderately well ince (Fig. 39). For example, Lookout north of Beulah in Malheur County; drained, and fertile. Some bottomlands, Mountain is basaltic/granitic; the Lookout Mountain at 7,127 feet, about however, are imperfectly to poorly mountains south of Burnt River are 12 miles south of Richland in Baker drained, usually moderately deep over largely limestone from which cement is County and only about 35 air miles hardpans, and are alkaline or sodic. ground from open-pit mines at Lime; from the lowest point on Oxbow; and and other mountains, such as Ironside Ironside Mountain at 7,815 feet, about Mountain, Cedar Mountains, and Owy- 12 miles southwest from Ironside in Climate hee Ridge just east of Owyhee Reser- Malheur County. voir, are rugged basaltic formations. For nine of the 14 official weather stations, which represent a cross- Alluvial valleys, which are used for Soils section of the province, the average irrigated agriculture, run along major The soils formed on ancient annual precipitation is about 9.9 inches, watercourses. These include Eagle terraces in Snake River Province vary of which only 28% occurs during the Valley, Keating Valley, Baker Valley, considerably by location according to native-plant growing season, April

Snake River Ecological Province 109 through June. November through Vegetation the province. The east-west ridge March precipitation is about 55% of the According to the 1936 State of Ore- between Burnt River and Powder River annual total. Average January maxi- gon Forest Type Map,54 which predates had about 80,000 acres of pine. This mum and minimum temperatures are extensive logging, only about 0.4% of stand included the Dooley Mountain 35.5 and 16°F, respectively. Average Snake River Province was covered by area. In the high country southwest of April through June maximum and mini-coniferous trees at that time. Bridgeport between Burnt River and mum temperatures are 71.3 and 39.6°F, the headwaters of Willow Creek were respectively. Precipitation and tempera- About 0.1%, or 66,000 acres, was stands covering about 6,000 acres. In tures vary by locality, as shown in covered by stands of western juniper Timber Canyon on the north-facing Table 37." which grew primarily in five general portion of Little Sheep Mountain were locations. About 23,000 acres were in about 1,000 acres of pine and Douglas- Field observations in Snake River the extreme southwest part of the prov- fir. And, a small stand of pine and Province are that storm patterns appear ince on mountainous terrain. About the Douglas-fir appeared on the north- to be related to the mountainous topo- same acreage was in the area between facing slopes of Lookout Mountain. graphic features that help typify this Juntura and north to the vicinity of province. Consequently, the paths Beulah Reservoir. In terms of acreage, the vegetation of these storms follow receive consider- Snake River Province is primarily a North of the Burnt River in the vicinity ably more precipitation than other areas shrub-grassland climax type. Sage- of Hereford about 7,000 acres of just a short distance away, but this is brushes dominate; however, the prov- juniper grew on upper portions of not documented by existing official ince is characterized by a variety of south-facing slopes. Also along Burnt weather stations. shrub species that flourish on the hills River about halfway between Bridge- and terraces above the most and low- However, both soils and plant commu- port and Durkee, about 6,000 acres lying portions of the province (Fig. 40). nities reflect these favorable moisture were near ridgetops on south-facing conditions which are highly significant slopes. On the south-facing slopes of Wyoming and basin big sagebrushes from a resource management aspect, Lookout Mountain were stands of are the most prominent shrubs on especially when they occur during the juniper totalling about 7,000 acres. uplands. Basin big sagebrush also native-plant growing season. Ponderosa pine, primarily stands of grows on well-drained bottomlands. A precipitation map53 shows greater large old-growth, was on about 134,000Greasewood and green rabbitbrush are than 15 inches precipitation for moun- acres or 0.3% of the province. Some of typical of sodic bottomland sites. tainous areas in the province and about these stands were along the line of Mountain big sagebrush appears in 30 inches precipitation for the Lookout demarcation between Snake River and higher elevations where precipitation is Mountain-Sheep Mountain-Little Blue Mountain provinces; the largest about 12 inches or more. Rigid and Lookout Mountain group southeast of area, of about 46,000 acres, was from threetip sagebrushes grow mainly on Baker City, which is the highest Whitney southward. Other stands of shallow clayey scabland sites. Louisi- precipitation shown for the province. ponderosa pine grew in the interior of ana wormwood grows on some moist

Table 37. Climatic Data for Snake River Ecological Province, Oregon." Station and Precipitation Average maximum and minimum length of record Elevation Annual Nov.-March April-June temperatures (°F) (years) (feet) (inches) (%) (%) January April-June Baker County Baker City 40 3,471 11.8 48 31 32.5-17.4 63.4-39.4 Huntington 20 2,150 10.9 65 21 37.4-19.7 75.8-47.2 Richland 26 1,900 9.7 55 27 37.6-18.3 72.5-39.5 Unity 12 4,031 10.8 49 29 31.6-9.8 65.4-33.1 Malheur County Adrian 20 2,240 8.8 57 27 37.0-19.6 75.3-43.9 Beulah 8 3,269 11.0 61 25 35.2-11.4 70.5-34.3 Harper 12 2,156 8.2 54 26 35.6-15.3 73.5-40.8 Riverside 10 3,000 9.2 50 29 36.7-16.4 73.9-37.7 Warm Springs Res. 21 3,332 7.9 51 32 35.8-15.3 72.6-39.8 County Averages Baker County 10.8 54 27 34.8-16.3 69.3-39.8 Malheur County 9.0 55 28 36.1-15.6 73.2-39.3 Province Average 9.9 55 28 35.5-16.0 71.3-39.6

110 Snake River Ecological Province Table 38. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends are essentially fully used for irrigated in Snake River Ecological Province, Oregon. agriculture with emphasis on produc- Station and tion of livestock forage and feeds. length of record Elevation Average date Average date (years) (feet) growthbegins* growth ends* A large part of the province is public land, especially in Malheur County Baker County which is about 80% public land. The Baker City 40 3,471 March 27 July 4 Huntington20 2,150 March 4 June 17 Baker County part of the province has Richland 26 1,900 March 7 June 6 a much lower proportion: about 40% Unity 12 4,031 April 4 July 1 publicly owned lands. Management of the public lands indirectly exerts a Malheur County significant influence on the use and Adrian 20 2,240 March 4 June 2 management of private lands in the Beulah 8 3,269 March 27 July 4 Harper 12 2,156 March 9 May 20 province. Resource issues, problems, Riverside 10 3,000 March 15 June 7 opportunities, and options nearly Warm Springs Res. 21 3,332 March 13 May 21 always involve both kinds of owner- ships in the province, especially in the * The average date vegetation growth begins on native perennial bunchgrasses is northern portion. This makes the approximately the date average daily temperatures reach 39 to 40°F. Average date coordinated resource management growth ends is considered to be when available soil moisture is depleted. Interpre- planning (CRMP) process a very tations are based on data in Johnsgard.17 appropriate way to resolve issues and improve overall resource management. bottomland sites. Bitterbrush, squaw- Forested areas in the province are on Some rangelands in low-precipitation apple, currants, chokecherry, buck- higher elevations and north-facing areas near Snake River have been wheats, gray and green rabbitbrushes, slopes in mountainous areas. They irretrievably damaged by nearly a gray horsebrush, and spiny hopsage are consist mainly of combinations of century of excessive livestock grazing, on various rangeland sites. Curlleaf ponderosa pine, Douglas-fir, and grand wildfires, soil erosion, and possibly mountain-mahogany grows on rocky fir with some western juniper on dryland farming. The result has been outcrops and ridges. shallow rocky areas and in the fringe significant changes in soils and their between timbered and sagebrush areas. The basic perennial grasses on range- capability to recover naturally. land sites in the province are bluebunch Shrubs commonly associated with wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Sandberg Seeding to selected forage species, forested areas include wax currant, low together with prescribed grazing bluegrass and squirreltail. Indian rice- Oregon-grape, rose,serviceberry, and grass, Thurber needlegrass, and needle- systems, have proved successful in spirea. Grasses include Idaho fescue, returning these lands to forage produc- and-thread also grow on the more and bluebunchwheatgrass,elk and sites. Onespike oatgrass, Kentucky tion as well as in much improving threadleafsedges, Kentucky, Canby, watershed quality and wildlife habitat. bluegrass, Columbia and western and Sandbergbluegrasses,prairie needlegrasses, and oniongrass also junegrass,Columbia needlegrass, In areas of about 12 inches precipita- grow in more moist upland sites. pinegrass,and basinwildrye. A wide tion or more, the soils inherently are variety ofshade-tolerant forbs grow in Basin wildrye is common throughout more able to recover from past uses. this coniferous tree climax type. the province on concave areas or those This has been demonstrated on many ranches in the province where modern with deeper soil in the uplands as well Originally, basin wildrye probably as on nearly all bottomland sites and range management technology has dominated most, if not all, bottomlands installed practical grazing programs riparian areas that have not been and riparian areas in the province, farmed. Cheatgrass is very prolific with good success. Although the nature whether moist, semimoist, alkaline, or of the terrace soils is such that erosion throughout the province. Medusahead otherwise. Associated grass, forb, and wildrye signifies clay spots. Beardless and compaction are serious consider- shrub species varied according to ations, these soils also respond well to bluebunch wheatgrass grows in the degree of wetness and alkalinity. Baker County portion of the province. seeding for rehabilitation. More than 100 species of perennial The BLM Vale Project covered a large forbs are recorded as regularly growing Management Implications portion of the province in Malheur on upland sites in this province. This The province includes irrigated County, and other programs promoted obviously is an incomplete record. intensive agriculture in the Vale- by the Vale BLM District treated much Even the most and sites in this prov- Ontario-Nyssa area which is devoted BLM land in Baker County. Conse- ince are characterized by a good varietyprimarily to growing food for human quently, many effective rangeland of 25 or more perennial forb species. use. All other valleys in the province manipulations and improvements have

Snake River Ecological Province 1 1 1 been made. This benefitted many Powder River,there are excellent exist simultaneously. But this is a resource values including wildlife examples of dissected ancient terraces matter of conjectural paleontology and habitat, recreation, watershed quality, which typifySnake River Province has no current significance in differen- and range condition in addition to (Fig. 41). tiating between the two provinces. providing great benefits to livestock ranching. There are many examples of The line of demaracation crosses into Obviously, the terraces and basins in treatments that are effective, and some Union County east of Pondosa at about High Desert Province suggest quiet- that are not, for the soil, topographic, 4,000 feet elevation and continues water abatement which seems logical and climatic conditions on both public northwesterly through Telocaset and for such interior basins that had no and private lands in the province. around the north and west edges of strong currents escaping to the ocean. North Powder Valley, then south at In contrast, the terraces of Snake River From the viewpoint of watershed about 4,000 feet elevation to just west Province are typified by strong geo- quality and soil erosion, which are mostof Baker City. There, an apparent geo- logic erosion and sharp dendritic drain- important considerations, it is highly logical uplift has abruptly placed the age patterns that suggest water receded desirable to culturally revegetate all upper line of the terrace at about 4,500 in strong currents out through Snake suitable soil areas in the province that feet elevation. The line continues south River to the ocean. Consequently, the are seriously depleted and not likely to at about 4,500 feet elevation until just kinds of ecological sites (soils, plant recover naturally because of permanent west of Unity where another apparent communities, topography) and espe- changes in the original soil situation uplift places the upper terrace level at cially the management implications are and plant cover. about 5,000 feet elevation. markedly different between Snake River and High Desert provinces. Delays in revegetation run the risk of The demarcation line ends southwest of soil erosion, leading to a new, lower Ironside Mountain where Blue Moun- Demarcation between the provinces is potential state. In the long run, for the tain Province reaches its most southern likely a belt south and east of Crane to health and stability of the basic resource point and joins John Day Province to the vicinity of Folly Farm and northeast -soil-it is far more judicious to the south. Ironside Mountain is in toward Crowley. There is no readily revegetate these areas by seeding as Snake River; Strawberry Mountain and apparent line of demarcation anywhere soon as possible. Prairie Hill are in Blue Mountain; Ante- within this belt; therefore, the line lope Mountain east of Seneca is in John becomes a matter of field experience and judgment. Province Demarcation Day Province. Based on the fact that ancient-terrace Snake River-Blue Mountain Snake River-John Day lines are extensive and consistently Demarcation Demarcation visible at about 4,500 feet elevation The line of demarcation between The line of demarcation between around the perimeter of the geologic Snake River and Blue Mountain prov- Snake River Province and John Day basin that forms High Desert Province, inces in the northeast begins in the Province to the west, which is about and that the Snake River Province line Snake River canyon at Copperfield on 5,000 feet elevation on the uplifted areawest of Warm Springs Reservoir is at the Oxbow where the river exits Snake east and south of Antelope Mountain, about 4,500 feet elevation, the line of River Province and enters Blue Moun- drops down to about 4,500 feet west of demarcation between Snake River and tain Province in upper Hells Canyon. Drewsey and Warm Springs Reservoir High Desert provinces has been placed From that point, the line runs southwest and proceeds south along the east at about 4,500 feet elevation from the up the ridge between Pine Creek and slopes of Stinking Water Mountains. vicinity of Crane southeast to just north Snake River. of Folly Farm, then northeast to just north of Crowley. All drainage into Pine Valley and Pine Snake River-High Desert Creek is considered to be in Blue Demarcation From there it runs east around the south Mountain Province, although the deep Just east of Crane, the line of de- side of Cedar Mountains to the rim of Snake River canyon makes this line a marcation between Snake River and the Owyhee River canyon, which is at matter of judgment based mainly on High Desert provinces begins at about 4,000 feet elevation. This line places native plant communities and soils. All 4,250 feet elevation. It is at this point, the dry lakebeds and closed basins of Eagle Valley is in Snake River the gap at Crane, that one might specu- south of Crowley in High Desert Province. From the divide on Highway late about how the ancient lake, in Province, which is typified by similar 86 between Eagle Valley and Pine which the terraces of Snake River Prov-closed-basin topography, whereas Valley, the line runs westerly at about ince were formed, at one time might Snake River Province to the north is 4,000 feet elevation along the upper have been connected to the ancient lake typified by landscape dissected by edge of the ancient terraces south of in which the terraces of the High Desertdendritic drainages into the Snake Sparta. In this area between Eagle Province were formed. For this to have River system. Valley and Keating Valley and north of happened, the lakes would have had to (continued on page 114)

112 Snake River Ecological Province Table 39. Major Ecological Sites in Snake River Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Natural grassland Rolling hills Semimoist bottom (less than 10% Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, big bluegrass, Basin wildrye, bluebunch wheatgrass, canopy cover sedge/big sagebrush big bluegrass/basin big sagebrush of shrubs) High clayey terrace Moist bottom Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, bluegrass, Basin wildrye, Kentucky bluegrass, sedge/rigid sagebrush sedge, quackgrass/golden currant, Louisiana wormwood

Shrub-grassland Droughty rolling hills Sodic bottom (10% or more Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Sandberg Basin wildrye, saltgrass, foxtail barley/ canopy cover bluegrass/big sagebrush, bitterbrush greasewood, green rabbitbrush of shrubs) Droughty south exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Thurber needlegrass, Sandberg bluegrass/big sagebrush, bitterbrush South exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue/big sagebrush, bitterbrush, squawapple Droughty north exposure Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Sandberg bluegrass/big sagebrush, bitterbrush, squawapple North exposure Idaho fescue, big bluegrass, sedge/mixed shrubs Droughty terrace Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Thurber needlegrass/squawapple, big sagebrush, rabbitbrush Clayey terrace Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, bluegrasses, sedge/rigid sagebrush Mahogany rockland Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, bluegrasses, Thurber needlegrass/curlleaf mountain-mahogany, big sagebrush, wax currant Moist scabland Idaho fescue, Sandberg bluegrass, bluebunch wheatgrass, onespike oatgrass/low sagebrush, bitterbrush, squawapple Scabland Sandberg bluegrass, Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass/low sagebrush, buckwheat, bitterbrush

Coniferous tree Junip er-pine-bunchgras s (5% or more Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, Sandberg canopy cover bluegrass/mixed shrubs/juniper, ponderosa pine of mature trees) Pine-bunchgrass Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, mixed grasses/ mixed shrubs/ponderosa pine Pine-Douglas-fir-fescue Idaho fescue, elk sedge, needlegrass, pinegrass/ mixed shrubs/ponderosa pine, Douglas-fir Pine-sedge Elk sedge, Idaho fescue, Columbia needlegrass/arnica, strawberry, lupine/mixed shrubs/ponderosa pine Pine-Douglas-fir-sedge Elk sedge, Idaho fescue, pinegrass/mixed shrubs/ ponderosa pine, Douglas-fir Fir-pine forest Shade-tolerant grasses/forbs/mixed shrubs/Douglas- fir, grand fir, larch, ponderosa pine, lodgepole pine

Snake River Ecological Province 113 Snake River- Humboldt-Owyhee ince; those to the east of the canyon are hills of Owyhee Province and the Demarcation in Owyhee Province. exposed sedimentary materials lying to Snake River Province includes the the north at lower elevations, which Owyhee River canyon up to about 6 From the vicinity of Rome and Arock, typify Snake River Province. The line miles upstream from Rome. In this the line between Snake River and Owy-of demarcation follows along the north canyon are exposed thick layers of hee provinces goes north along the rim side of Mahogany Mountains east to sedimentary or tuffaceous materials of Owyhee River canyon at about 4,000Rockville and then north and east into that typify Snake River Province. The feet elevation. It follows this elevation, Idaho at about the 4,000 foot elevation. basalt plateau and terraces to the west which is the approximate break of the canyon are in Humboldt Prov- between the higher basalt plateaus and

114 Snake River Ecological Province E-

The Dalles M- Ecological Province

Location ince. Mosier is in the northwest corner. The Dalles city. The soils are Cheno- The Dalles Ecological Province in Friend, Wamic, Pine Grove, and Sim- weth and Cherryhill loams and silt north-central Oregon lies along the nasho are just inside the eastern boun- loams formed in old alluvium and lower eastern slopes of the Cascade dary; there are no towns in the southern consolidated colluvium on undulating Mountains generally between about part of the province. 1 to 50% slopes. At one time much of 2,000 and 4,000 feet elevation in the this area was in orchards. northern part and between about 2,500 Description From The Dalles city south to about and 4,500 feet elevation farther south, Physiographically, The Dalles Wamic along the eastern part of the on the Warm Springs Indian Reserva- Province in Oregon consists mainly of province is a sloping plateau dissected tion. The province is relatively narrow, east-sloping foothills and mountain from west to east by numerous drain- varying from about 6 to 15 miles wide slopes bisected west to east by numer- ages, many basalt rimmed. Some small east to west, and extends about 100 ous drainages, many having abrupt areas in the plateau have been dry- milesnorth to south. basalt cliff canyons originating in the farmed for cereal grains. Soil series Cascades and draining into Deschutes This strip of country lying parallel to typifying this plateau are Ortley and and Columbia rivers. Elevations range the Cascade Mountains is an area in Wamic which are formed in aeolian from about 100 feet along the Colum- which the hot, dry eastern Oregon silts and volcanic ash overlying basalt bia River between Mosier and The summer climate significantly affects bedrock. Dalles to 5,110 feet on the north end of the ecology along the east slopes of the Green Ridge near Metolius River in the Cascades. It constitutes the transition Noncultivated soils can be grouped by southern part of the province. between normal grasslands of Colum- the natural vegetation produced: upland bia Basin Province and Douglas-fir- natural grasslands; bottomland natural hemlock forests of Cascade Province Soils grasslands; Oregon white oak; mixed (Fig. 42). Soils typifying The Dalles Prov- ponderosa pine/oak; pine/bunchgrass; ince in Oregon have developed in a mixed ponderosa pine/Douglas-fir; and In Oregon, the province covers about variety of parent materials related to theDouglas-fir/grand fir forest. 530,000 acres mainly in Wasco and geology of the eastern slopes of Mt. Soils associated with upland natural Jefferson counties with a small propor- Hood and the Cascade Mountains. grasslands are on steep south-facing tion in Hood River County and a very Included are aeolian silts and volcanic slopes along major drainages in the small proportion in Deschutes County ash, andesitic, basaltic, and sedimen- low-elevation northeastern part of the near Black Butte. The province extends tary colluviums, and glacial outwash. province. These soils are shallow north across the Columbia River into Some small areas of alluvial soils lie cobbly loam with 45 to 75% slopes. A Washington. along stream channels. major soil series is Bodell, which is In Oregon, The Dalles city is in the The major cultivated area in the prov- formed in basaltic colluvium over extreme northeast corner of the prov- ince in Oregon lies south and west of basalt bedrock.

The Dalles Ecological Province 115 Soils associated with bottomland natu- A representative series is Bald, which A precipitation map" shows about 50 ral grasslands are limited to certain is formed in aeolian materials and basalt inches or more annual precipitation reaches in major drainages. These allu- colluvium overlying basalt bedrock. along the western boundary of The vial soils are nearly level, deep sandy Dalles Province in Oregon. Tempera- loamy derived from an aggregation of Soils associated with ponderosa pine tures at about 4,000 feet elevation, upstream parent materials. A major and bunchgrass plant communities lie which is the western boundary of the bottomland soil series is Tygh. mainly in the south half of the prov- province in Oregon, are not represented ince, on the Warm Springs Indian in data from official weather stations. Soils associated with nearly pure stands Reservation. The soils include Booten of white oak are mainly in the northern and Shiva, which are sandy loamy Along the province's eastern boundary part of the province on steep south- formed in basalt colluvium; Tenwater, in Oregon, precipitation increases from facing slopes in higher, more moist Milldam, and Tolius, which are very east to west as elevation increases. The elevations than where upland natural cobbly silt loams formed in glacial southernmost weather station, Mont- grasslands are on similar topography. outwash; and Hehe and Teewee, which gomery Ranch south of Metolius River These soils are shallow to moderately are very stony loamy formed in basalt in Jefferson County, is both drier and deep cobbly loam with 35 to 65% colluvium. warmer than stations farther north. This slopes. Soil series include steep phases correlates with the previously described of Wamic, Skyline, and Hesslan, which Soils associated with ponderosa pine phenomenon of the advent of western are formed in a mix of aeolian and col- and Douglas-fir forests are in higher hemlock at increasing elevations from luvium materials over basalt or sedi- footslopes throughout the length of the north to south along the Cascade mentary bedrock. province in Oregon. In the north, these Mountains in Oregon. soils include Bald, Wamic, Ketchly, and Soils associated with stands of mixed Frailey, which are formed in aeolian oak and ponderosa pine are mainly in materials and colluviums over bedrock. Vegetation the northern and eastern parts of the Farther south on the reservation, these According to the 1936 State of province at mid-elevations on plateaus soils include series such as Smiling, Oregon Forest Type Map54 which pre- and steep south-facing slopes. Simnasho, and Pipp, which are strong dates extensive logging, about 85% of sandy loamy formed in colluvium of The Dalles Province in Oregon was On some plateaus, the soils are in a igneous rock and ash. covered by coniferous and mixed coni- complex soil pattern of nonstony ferous and oak forest at that time. mounds interspersed with very shallow Soils associated with Douglas-fir and About 5% was covered by Oregon stonysoils,a pattern called biscuit grand fir forests, which are mainly on white oak savannah, and about 10% scabland.Oak and pine grow on the north exposures at higher elevations in was nonforested and conceivably in biscuits which are typifiedby Ortley, the northern part of the province in natural grasslands (less than 10% Wamic, and Skyline soil series; they are Oregon, are typified by such soils canopy cover of shrubs). derived from aeolian materials overly- series as Bins and Fouts. These soils ing basalt or sedimentary bedrock. are formed in aeolian materials and According to this map, ponderosa pine basaltic and andesitic colluviums over was by far the dominant tree species in The interspersed scabland is Bakeoven bedrock. the province. Based on field ecological series which, in this province in Ore- studies, other coniferous tree species gon, atypically does not produce a low- include Douglas-fir, grand fir, western growing species of sagebrush. For one Climate white pine, lodgepole pine, western explanation of the origin of this Based on six official weather sta- larch, and western red cedar, depending patterned land, see the earlier section tions in the eastern low-elevation part on the effective environment of the on Columbia Basin Ecological Prov- of The Dalles Province in Oregon, particular site. ince in which biscuit scabland is a average annual precipitation in this area prominent, widespread phenomenon. is about 14.5 inches of which about Natural grasslands in The Dalles Prov- 25% is during the herbaceous native- ince in Oregon are primarily on and On other plateaus, mixed oak and pine plant growing season, March through south-facing slopes in lower elevations grow on relatively level soils having June. October through February along the northeastern portion of the deep, medium-texture surface layers (winter) precipitation is about 66% of province. Dominant species include and loamy subsoils. A representative total annual precipitation. bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg blue- soil series is Wamic, which is formed in grass, Idaho fescue, prairie junegrass, aeolian materials over basalt bedrock. Average January maximum and mini- Lemmon needlegrass, and a wide vari- mum temperatures for this portion of ety of perennial forbs such as arrowleaf In more moist, higher elevations, mixed the province are 38.7 and 22.6°F, balsamroot, barestem and heartleaf oak and pine are on steep (45 to 75%) respectively. Average March through buckwheats, barestem lomatium, south-facing slopes of soils that are June maximum and minimum tempera- yarrow, and lupine. Sagebrush is not a moderately deep cobbly or stony loamy. tures are 65.5 and 36.5°F, respectively. component of upland plant communi-

116 The Dalles Ecological Province Table 40. Climatic Data for The Dalles Ecological Province, Oregon." Station and Precipitation Average maximum and minimum length of record Elevation Annual Oct.-Feb. March-June temperatures (°F) (years) (feet) (inches) (%) (%) January March-June Jefferson County Montgomery Rancha 171,900 14.2 67 26 40.9-22.5 66.8-33.1 Wasco County Ortley Stationb 12 1,600 21.9 74 18 35.5-23.7 60.2-37.3 The Dalles 21 96 13.8 72 22 39.6-27.3 69.5-45.4 Dufurc 20 1,250 12.0 65 28 37.9-22.3 66.8-36.0 Ramsey Station d 16 1,350 15.3 52 25 not available not available Friend 9 2,500 16.8 68 26 34.6-17.2 60.2-32.7 Wamic 15 1,800 15.0 69 22 40.3-23.9 64.4-35.2 Average alongeastern (low-elevation) province border 14.5 66 25 38.7-22.6 65.5-36.5 No officialweather stationsin TheDalles Province in Deschutes or Hood River counties. a South of Metolius River in Jefferson County. b About 2 miles southwest of Rowena. c Within Columbia Basin Province but very close to The Dalles Province line. d About 5 miles southwest of Dufur. ties in The Dalles Province even under The most and portion of coniferous 3,000 feet elevation. The herbaceous deteriorated conditions. This includes forest in The Dalles Province in Oregon understory typically consists of a wide very shallow, very stony scablands is in stands of mixed ponderosa pine variety of perennial species such as elk which normally grow low or rigid and Oregon white oak which are on sedge, Idaho and western fescues, spike sagebrush in other provinces. However, ridgetops and sloping areas ranging trisetum, Alaska oniongrass, Kentucky sagebrush has encroached on some from about 1,000 to 2,500 feet eleva- and pine bluegrasses, blue wildrye, deteriorated bottomland sites. Gray tion. The overstory consists of ponde- pinegrass, and mountain brome. rabbitbrush, gray horsebrush, and rosa pine and oak; all age classes of poison-oak grow in minor amounts on both species are represented. A wide The forb component consists of such upland grassland sites. variety of perennial bunchgrasses and species as peavine, American vetch, forbs constitute the understory along woollyweed, cinquefoil, shining frasera, Oak savannahs are primarily on south- with abundant bitterbrush, deerbrush Douglas deervetch, white hawkweed, facing slopes ranging from about 1,200 ceanothus, rose, serviceberry, snow- licoriceroot, lupine, penstemon, straw- to 3,500 feet elevation and on steep berry, poison-oak, greenleaf manzanita, berry, yarrow, big deervetch, mountain north-facing slopes from about 1,000 to and both oak and pine reproduction. sweetroot, and arrowleaf balsamroot. 3,000 feet elevation in the northeastern part of the province in Oregon. On As the effective environment improves The shrub component is also typified south-facing slopes, the stand of oak is due to increased elevation and/or by numerous species in abundance. It sparse; however, it dominates the increased moisture, conifer forest areas commonly includes species such as aspect of the site. of The Dalles Province in Oregon are bitterbrush; redstem, deerbrush and characterized by different plant squawcarpet ceanothus; mockorange; The understory is strongly dominated communities; for example, ponderosa blue elderberry; serviceberry; pipsis- by bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg pine/bitterbrush/bunchgrass sites; sewa; oceanspray; greenleaf and pine- bluegrass, and Idaho fescue. A variety ponderosa pine/Douglas-fir/mixed mat manzanita; shinyleaf spirea; low of perennial forbs and a few shrubs and shrubs/elk sedge sites; mixed fir/ Oregon-grape; rose; snowberry; and oak reproduction are common. On ponderosa pine forest sites; and mixed hazel. Ponderosa pine, Douglas-fir, steep north-facing slopes, oak grows fir forest sites. incense-cedar, and white oak of all age with good stand density. Occasionally classes may be in the stand. there are ponderosa pine and Douglas- Ponderosa pine/bitterbrush/bunchgrass fir. Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, sites occur from about 1,700 to 2,700 The mixed fir-pine forest grows from Sandberg bluegrass, and big and feet elevation. The shrub understory is about 2,500 to about 2,800 feet Kentucky bluegrasses are prominent. A dominated by bitterbrush. Dominant elevation on north-facing slopes and wide variety of perennial forbs and such grasses include Idaho fescue and sloping areas. It has a relatively dense shrubs as bitterbrush, deerbrush ceano- bluebunch wheatgrass. tree canopy cover which may include thus, serviceberry, snowberry, rose, minor amounts of grand fir. The gray rabbitbrush, and both oak and Pine/Douglas-fir/mixed shrubs/elk midstory consists of about 25% canopy sparse pine reproduction are common. sedge sites lie from about 1,200 to cover of tall shrubs such as willow,

The Dalles Ecological Province 117 thimbleberry, rose, blue elderberry, Table 41. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends serviceberry, redstem and deerbrush in The Dalles Ecological Province, Oregon. ceanothus, mockorange, Cascade Station and Oregon-grape, hazel, ninebark, trailing length of record Elevation Average date Average date blackberry, oceanspray, snowberry, (years) (feet) growth begins* growthends* pinemat manzanita, pipsissewa, and Jefferson County birchleaf spirea. Both grasses and forbs Montgomery Ranch 17 1,900 March 1 June 5 constitute a sparse stand of shade- Wasco County tolerant species such as pinegrass, elk Dufur 20 1,250 March 1 June 21 sedge, blue wildrye, Kentucky blue- Friend 9 2,500 March 27 August 12 grass, false solomonseal, woollyweed, Ortley Station 12 1,600 March 11 September 3 and strawberry. Ramsey Station 16 1,350 March 11 July 20 The Dalles 21 96 February 18 June 25 The mixed-fir forest is on mountain Wamic 15 1,800 March 14 July 17 slopes ranging from about 2,500 to 4,000 feet elevation. It is primarily a No official weather stations in The Dalles Province in Deschutes or Hood River Douglas-fir-grand fir forest which may counties. have an occasional ponderosa pine, *The average date vegetation growth begins on native perennial bunchgrasses is western larch, or western white pine in approximately the date average daily temperatures reach 39 to 40°F. Average date the stand. The understory is very sparse growth ends is considered to be when available soil moisture is depleted. Interpreta- and consists of shade-tolerant species. tions are based on data in Johnsgard.'7

The herbaceous understory is typified by Alaska oniongrass, elk sedge, blue subject to soil erosion during storm ridge where the Wapinitia-Warm wildrye, western fescue, mountain seasons and spring runoff. Springs road crosses the major ridge brome, tall trisetum, white hawkweed, going south, the top of the Mutton The southern half of the province in peavine, strawberry, sword fern, arnica, Mountains. At this ridgetop crossing, Oregon lies in the Warm Springs Indian mountain sweetroot, trillium, bunch- Columbia Basin, The Dalles, and John Reservation and in Deschutes National berry dogwood, meadowrue, solomon- Day provinces join. Forest. Much of the north half in plume, phantom-orchid, cleavers bed- Oregon lies in Mt. Hood National The demarcation line between The straw, sandwort, pathfinder, and Forest. Only about 25% of the provinceDalles and Columbia Basin provinces starflower. in Oregon is privately owned. in Oregon is based on soil lines The shrub understory is typified by between Frailey, Wamic, and Skyline soils, which typify the eastern foot- willow, vine maple, serviceberry, Province Demarcation redstem ceanothus, snowberry, rose, slopes of the Cascade Mountains-The hazel, honeysuckle, oceanspray, Dalles Province-and the Condon, The Dalles-Columbia Basin Walla Walla, Wapinitia, and Maupin thimbleberry, bittercherry, trailing Demarcation blackberry, golden (bush form) soil series, which typify Columbia chinkapin, pipsissewa, greenleaf The line of demarcation between Basin Province .16 manzanita, Cascade Oregon-grape, The Dalles Province and Columbia Basin Province in Oregon starts in the twinflower, and reproduction of both The Dalles-John Day Demarcation Douglas-fir and grand fir. northeast corner of The Dalles Province on the Columbia River east of The At the ridgetop where the The Dalles Province in Oregon is Dalles city near the mouth of Fifteen- Wapinitia-Warm Springs road crosses noteworthy for its wide variety of mile Creek and The Dalles dam. From the major ridge going south, the line of shrub, grass, and forb species and their there, the line goes south about 2 miles demarcation between The Dalles and abundance under tree canopies. east of The Dalles city and continues John Day provinces winds south to the south to west of Dufur, which is in vicinity of Simnasho, which is in The Columbia Basin Province. The line Dalles Province. The line circles Management Implications continues south to a point just east of around Simnasho to the east and south A very large portion of The Dalles Friend, which is in The Dalles Prov- and then heads west toward Hehe Butte, Province in Oregon is forest and range- ince, and to a point east of Wamic also in The Dalles Province. From land. An area of Chenoweth and Cherry- which also is, barely, in The Dalles Hehe Butte the line travels south at hill soils south and west of The Dalles Province. From Wamic, the line about 2,500 feet elevation passing near city was at one time used for orchards. wanders southwest to near Smock Sawmill Butte, across the headwaters Some areas of Wamic and Ortley soils Prairie and then south to Pine Grove on of Tenino Creek, and then southwest to are used primarily for dryland farming Highway 216. From Pine Grove the Metolius River. The line follows for cereal grain. All these soils are line goes southeast to the pass on the Metolius River downstream to Fly

118 The Dalles Ecological Province Table 42. Major Ecological Sites in The Dalles Ecological Province, Oregon. Upland site types Bottomland site types Climax type & characteristic vegetation & characteristic vegetation Natural grassland Arid south exposure Moist bottom (less than 10% Bluebunch wheatgrass, Sandberg bluegrass, Basin wildrye, bluebunch wheatgrass. canopy cover Idaho fescue, Lemmon needlegrass/ of shrubs) bitterbrush

Deciduous tree Oak south exposure (5% or more Bluebunch wheatgrass, Idaho fescue, canopy cover Sandberg bluegrass/bitterbrush/oak of trees) Oak north exposure Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass, Kentucky bluegrass/shrubs/oak

Mixed coniferous- Ponderosa pine-oak-fescue deciduous tree Idaho fescue, elk sedge/shrubs/pine, oak (5% or more canopy cover of trees

Coniferous tree Pine-bunchgrass (5% or more Idaho fescue, bluebunch wheatgrass/ canopy cover bitterbrush/ponderosa pine of mature trees) Pine-Douglas-fir-sedge Elk sedge, western fescue, blue wildrye/oak, incense-cedar, ponderosa pine, Douglas-fir Mixed fir-pine forest Shade plants/many shrubs/Douglas-fir, grand fir, ponderosa pine Mixed fir forest Shade plants/many shrubs/Douglas-fir, grand fir

Creek and then up Fly Creek and area in Deschutes County that is The Dalles-Cascade Demarcation around the east side of Squaw Back southeast of Black Butte, which is in From the point that The Dalles, Ridge at about 2,500 feet elevation to Mazama Province. Mazama, and Cascade provinces join, what is locally called Lower Desert. It the line of demarcation between The is at this location that The Dalles, John From the east side of Black Butte, the Dalles and Cascade provinces in Day, and Mazama provinces join. line goes northerly along Green Ridge Oregon meanders northward along the at about 4,500 feet elevation to about mountains at about 4,500 feet eleva- The line of demarcation between The where Abbot Creek joins Metolius tion. This line is the approximate Dalles and John Day Provinces is based River. There, The Dalles, Mazama, and elevation at which western hemlock on soil lines between soil series such as Cascade provinces join. becomes a component of forested plant Smiling, Hehe, Simnasho, and Pipp, communities in this area. which typify The Dalles Province, and The line of demarcation between The soil series such as Simas, Watama, Dalles and Mazama provinces is a The advent of western hemlock signi- Prill, Mutton, and Madras, which typifyrelatively short distance of about 35 fies the location on the upper Cascade John Day Province on the Warm miles. The line is based on soil lines footslopes and mountain sides where Springs Indian Reservation.96 between soil series such as Hehe, the hot, dry summer climate of eastern Teewee, Smiling, and Pipp, which Oregon is no longer an ecological typify The Dalles Province on the factor influencing forest composition. The Dalles - Mazama DemarcationWarm Springs Indian Reservation, and Below this line, the forest is typified by From the location near Lower soil series such as Deschutes and ponderosa pine, Douglas-fir, and Desert, the line of demarcation betweenShanahan, which represent the pumice Oregon oak; above the line, the forest is The Dalles and Mazama provinces goesmantle that typifies Mazama Province typified by Douglas-fir, true firs, and south and west to encompass a small lying to the south of the reservation.", 96 hemlocks.

The Dalles Ecological Province 119 Numerous field observations over somewhat higher elevations on more which typify Cascade Province on the several decades are that the advent of and south-facing slopes and at some- Warm Springs Indian Reservation.96 western hemlock in the forest composi- what lower elevations on more moist Farther north, the line of demarcation is tion is a reliable widespread ecological north-facing slopes because of the indicated by the general presence of indicator of the location on the land- influence of topographic exposure. such forested soils as Bald, Ketchly, scape at which a very significant eco- and Frailey, which typify The Dalles logical change occurs when transecting In the southern part of Wasco County, Province in Oregon, and Divers, Hut- from and and warm forest to moist and the line of demarcation between The son, and Thader forested soils, which cold forest. Dalles and Cascade provinces, -which is typify Cascade Province in Oregon.89 based on the appearance of western Other species-trees, shrubs, and hemlock, drops to about 4,000 feet as it herbaceous-also change from zone to goes north. Western hemlock's growth The Dalles-Willamette zone in transecting dry-warm to moist- at lower elevations in northern parts of Demarcation cold conditions. However, western Oregon than in southern parts is true The line of demarcation between hemlock was chosen as the key indi- for both eastern and western slopes of The Dalles and Willamette provinces in cator species to differentiate between the Cascade Mountains as well as alongOregon goes north from near the some ecological provinces in western the eastern slopes of the Coast Range. southeast part of upper Hood River Oregon because, first, it is widespread Apparently, this is due to the overall Valley at about 4,000 feet elevation. It at higher elevations on both east and warmer climatic conditions to the runs along the ridge east of the valley west slopes of the Cascades and from south, which causes western hemlock and winds around the head of Neal the Coast Range west to the Pacific to first appear at a higher elevation on Creek and north down the ridge nearly Ocean; and, second, a tree reliably mountain ranges. to Highway 1-84 along the Columbia indicates average climatic conditions River. that have prevailed over long cycles. The line of demarcation between The Dalles and Cascade provinces runs Here it veers sharply upriver nearly to Elevations cited as western hemlock's north to a point near the southeast Mosier, which is in The Dalles Prov- entry level in the forested plant com- corner of the upper Hood River Valley. ince. The town of Hood River and the munity are based on observations of At this point, The Dalles, Cascade, and entire Hood River Valley are in sites representing the climatic climax, Willamette provinces join. Willamette Province. i.e., on relatively level topography not significantly influenced by topographic Although the line between The Dalles The line of demarcation between The exposure and where the plant commu- and Cascade provinces is based on the Dalles and Willamette provinces in nity and soils likely are in equilibrium elevation at which western hemlock Oregon is based on soil lines between with long-term climatic conditions. appears, the line also is indicated by theBald, Bodell, Frailey, and Ketchly soil general presence of such forested soils series which typify The Dalles Province Obviously, western hemlock cited as as Smiling, Simnasho, and Pipp, which in Oregon, and Hood, Van Horn, Oak occurring at about 4,000 feet elevation typify The Dalles Province, and Grove, and Bins soil series, which in a climatic climax location will be at Howash and Mackatie forested soils, typify Willamette Province in Oregon.89

120 The Dalles Ecological Province Willamette Ecological Province

Location bia River at Portland. It also includes Numerous field observations are that Willamette Ecological Province in major portions of the Hood River the advent of western hemlock in the Oregon lies between the Cascade and system, which flows into the Columbia forest composition is a reliable, wide- Coast mountain ranges in western River at Hood River, and the Umpqua spread ecological indicator of the loca- Oregon. It extends west to east along River system, which flows into the tion on the landscape at which a very the south side of the Columbia River Pacific Ocean at Winchester Bay. To a significant ecological change occurs in from about Rainier in Columbia Coun- lesser extent, upper reaches of Neha- soils, vegetation, and management ty upriver to about Mosier in northwest lem, Siuslaw, and Coquille rivers, implications when transecting from Wasco County, a distance of roughly which flow into the Pacific Ocean, are arid, warm forest to moist, cold forest. 100 riverbank miles. within Willamette Province. Other species-woody and herba- ceous-also change concurrently with From north to south, it extends from theWillamette Province has three general the advent of western hemlock. Columbia River near Rainier to about geomorphic features: 25 miles southwest of Roseburg in Geologically recent alluvial low In Oregon, western hemlock in a forest Douglas County. It is about 50 miles terraces and floodplains-the valley apparently indicates an effective wide, east to west, at Corvallis; the floor; environment equivalent to 60 or more narrowest area, about 15 miles wide, is inches annual precipitation and Old valley fill and ancient high near Cottage Grove. The province is significantly cooler local climatic terraces; and about 220 air miles long from north to conditions.34, 35,36,37,44,45,46 south. Relatively low-elevation residual hill lands, mainly less than 1,700 Western hemlock, being a tree, reliably Willamette Province in Oregon covers feet elevation, which include the indicates average conditions that have about 6.2 million acres in Clatsop, foothills of both the Cascade and prevailed over long climatic cycles. Columbia, Tillamook, Washington, Coast mountain ranges. Consequently, western hemlock was Multnomah, Hood River, Yamhill, chosen as the key indicator species to Clackamas, Polk, Marion, Lincoln, The lowest elevation in the province is differentiate Willamette Province, in Benton, Linn, Lane, Coos, and Douglas about 50 feet at Rainier on the Colum- which western hemlock is not generally counties. It extends north across the bia River. A number of isolated buttes common in forested uplands, from the Columbia River into Washington. and mountains 2,000 feet or more in contiguous Cascade and Coast prov- elevation are throughout the province. inces in which western hemlock gener- Most of the province is below about ally is common in forested uplands. Description 1,700 feet elevation, which is the Physiographically, Willamette approximate elevation in the foothills at Province in Oregon includes nearly the which western hemlock begins to grow Soils entire drainage system of the Willam- along the Cascade and Coast mountain The geomorphology of soils ette River, which flows into the Colum- ranges. typifying Willamette Province in

Willamette Ecological Province 121 Oregon involves a variety of parent A precipitation map53 reflects the Valley presented to the first settlers a materials including geologically recent relatively uniform precipitation pattern remarkably open landscape set between alluvial low terraces and floodplains in throughout Willamette Province in the dense forest of the Cascades and the the Willamette Valley, old valley fill, Oregon. Precipitation and temperature Coast Range. Perhaps Wilke's [an ancient high terraces, and low residual data vary by location, as shown in expedition in 1841] observation that the foothills of both the Cascade and Coast Table 44 (page 108). prairie occupied one-third more of the mountain ranges. Further complication valley than did woodland is a fair results from the geographic extent of general estimate of its extent." Willamette Province. The province Vegetation Habek13 studied land survey records includes all or part of 16 counties as In terms of vegetation, Willamette made when Willamette Valley was well as nearly the entire Willamette Province in Oregon is that area below being subdivided during the 1850s. River drainage system and parts of the elevation at which western hemlock From survey notes, he constructed a Hood, Umpqua, Nehalem, Siuslaw, and grows, starting from the vicinity of vegetation map that includes seven Coquille rivers' drainage systems. Hood River Valley downriver to about Bridal Veil and then south along the townships transecting east and west in Consequently, soil series of Willamette foothills of the Cascade Range at about Marion and Polk counties, a total of Province are too numerous to catego- 1,400 to 1,800 feet elevation. The west 252 square miles. He believed this rize. However, a geographic listing of boundary of Willamette Province is thattransect to be representative of a large prominent soil series illustrates how area below the elevation at which portion of Willamette Valley at that some series are widespread in the western hemlock grows, from the time. He showed five major vegeta- province whereas others are more or vicinity of Rainier on the Columbia tional types on the map: oak opening, less localized (Table 43). River south along the foothills and crestoak forest, Douglas-fir forest, bottom- of the Coast mountain range generally land forest, and prairie. at or below about 1,750 feet elevation. Oak openings had trees 50 feet or more Climate Along both these demarcation lines, apart; if less than 50 feet, they were Based on 36 official weather Willamette Province is typified by reported as oak forest. Average distance stations representing Willamette Douglas-fir, white fir, bigleaf maple, between trees in oak openings was Province in Oregon, average annual and Oregon white oak. By contrast, the 143.6 feet compared with 36.5 feet in precipitation is about 50.4 inches, of Cascade and Coast provinces are oak forest. Oak openings were widely which about 38% falls during the her- typified by the advent of western distributed in the transect; one town- baceous-plant growing season, Febru- hemlock in forested plant communities. ary through June. October through ship had about 90% oak openings. January (winter) precipitation is about Refer to Table 7 (pages 18-19) in the Only a small portion of the area in- 56% of the total. Average January section on Cascade Ecological Province cluded in the transect was covered by maximum and minimum temperatures for a comparison of the more abundant oak forest. After valley fires were are 43.9 and 30.3°F, respectively. Aver- and characteristic grass, shrub, and tree controlled and oak reproduction was age February through June growing species in the Cascade, Coast, and successful in oak openings, the total season maximum and minimum tem- Willamette provinces in Oregon. amount of oak forest gradually in- peratures are about 61.4 and 40.2°F, creased. Habek13 states that in 1961 oak respectively. The southern boundary of Willamette Province is contiguous with Siskiyou forests were not uncommon in much of The lowest average annual precipitationProvince. Several key indicator vegeta- Willamette Valley (Fig. 43). is recorded at Hood River Experiment tion species typify each province. For Isolated groves surrounded by prairie Station at 29.5 inches. However, 35% example, uplands below about 1,300 were limited in species composition to of this falls during the herbaceous-plant feet elevation in southern Willamette white oak and Douglas-fir with the growing season, which is typical of the Province are characterized by the com- exception of scattered concentrations of precipitation pattern throughout the mon presence of bigleaf maple, Oregon ponderosa pine on more droughty sites, province. The highest recorded average white oak, scotchbroom, and small especially in southern parts of the annual precipitation is 74.7 inches at amounts of Pacific madrone. Equiva- valley. the Portland Water Bureau Station on lent uplands in Siskiyou Province are Bull Run River in eastern Clackamas typified by California black oak, Habek's map13 shows that Douglas-fir County. Of this, 40% falls during the wedgeleaf ceanothus, and abundant forest dominated both the west and east herbaceous-plant growing season. madrone, which strongly dominates sides of the valley transect. He noted logged and otherwise disturbed forestedthat this forest type is located at Douglas County weather stations are areas. distinctly higher elevations and should the warmest in the province, undoubt- perhaps be more properly considered as edly because they are near Siskiyou Towle 31 summed up a number of a part of the mountain ranges on either Province to the south, which overall documented observations made in mid- has a warmer, California-type climate. 1840s by saying, "The Willamette (continued on page 125)

122 Willamette Ecological Province Table 43. Distribution of Some Representative Soil Series in Willamette Ecological Province, Oregon. Oregon counties

(n C cri a`) m o E Ca E o E C U) -0 (D O C L L C: U) N O O O C c6 O c0 E Representative soil series co U 0 0 2 a. >

Aloha x x x Amity x x Awbrey x Bashaw x x Bellpine x x x Bins x Camas x Cascade x x x x Cazadero x Chehalis x x x Cloquata x x x x Coburg x Concord x Conser x Culberson x Dayton x x x x Dixonville x x Evans x Goble x x Hembre x x Hillsboro x Honeygrove x x x x Hood x Jory x x x x x x Klickitat x x x x x Latourell x Laurelwood x Melby x Multnomah x Nehalem x Nekia x x x x Newberg x x x x x Oak Grove x Oakland x Olyic x x Parkdale x

Peavine x x x x x x Philomath x x x Powell x Price x Ritner x Sauvie x x Steiwer x Sutherlin x Waldo x Wapato x Willakenzie x x Willamette x x x x Woodburn x x x x x x x Wyeast x Yamhill x

Willamette Ecological Province 123 Table 44. Climatic Data for Willamette Ecological Province, Oregon." Station and Precipitation Average maximum and minimum length of record Elevation Annual Oct.-Jan. Feb.-June temperatures (°F) (years) (feet) (inches) (%) (%) January Feb.-June Benton County Alpine 16 400 49.2 58 36 46.1-33.5 60.6-38.3 Corvallis 21 205 37.2 59 36 46.2-33.5 63.1-42.1 Clackamas County Estacada 21 414 57.4 52 41 45.5-31.7 62.0-45.7 Miramonte 31 162 43.5 53 39 44.4-32.8 60.6-40.8 Portland WaterBureauSta. 22 747 86.2 53 40 42.2-30.9 60.1-39.6 Stafford 22 413 49.4 54 38 44.8-33.3 60.0-40.8 Columbia County Birkensfield 8 540 70.7 55 40 44.8-28.1 60.1-36.1 Clatskanie 17 50 55.6 55 40 41.9-31.3 58.9-40.5 Doraville 29 600 47.9 54 38 41.1-30.8 57.6-38.5 Vernonia 14 628 45.3 55 39 43.7-27.3 59.9-36.3 Douglas County Drain 15 302 47.4 59 36 47.3-33.9 64.7-41.2 Elkton 15 125 50.2 57 39 46.9-33.4 64.4-40.6 Roseburg 57 464 32.5 55 39 47.2-34.9 63.1-41.9 Hood River County Cascade Locks 21 100 76.6 57 37 40.6-30.7 61.4-42.3 Hood River Exp. Sta. 22500 29.5 61 35 38.4-26.8 61.0-39.2 Parkdale 22 1,740 46.0 61 35 37.3-22.3 59.1-34.3 Lane County Cottage Grove 22 650 46.3 56 39 46.1-32.1 62.1-39.7 Eugene 57 361 40.6 59 36 44.5-31.4 61.2-40.2 Fern Ridge Dam 9 380 37.9 58 37 43.3-29.9 60.4-44.9 Leaburg 19 675 59.7 53 41 45.6-32.8 63.1-41.3 McKenzieBridge 18 1,200 69.0 55 40 41.6-27.3 62.9-37.0 Oakridge 17 1,275 43.7 54 40 46.2-30.0 65.1-39.0 Linn County Albany 22 212 40.7 57 37 45.4-32.5 63.3-41.8 Cascadia 19 796 60.2 51 43 44.4-29.7 62.4-38.8 Marion County Mount Angel 37 485 47.2 53 37 45.4-34.2 60.8-43.0 Salem 52 182 41.3 56 38 45.0-31.8 62.1-40.5 Silver Creek Falls 12 1,340 74.2 51 42 44.3-28.2 59.1-35.7 Multnomah County BonnevilleDam 15 55 72.5 55 38 40.0-30.3 60.0-42.8 Portland 52 33 42.1 55 38 44.3-34.4 60.8-44.4 Polk County Dallas 16 325 48.8 57 39 43.9-29.4 62.2-38.1 Falls City 20 355 72.7 60 36 44.7-30.4 61.1-41.2 Wallace orchard 21 173 38.4 55 38 44.6-31.4 61.1-40.2 Washington County Forest Grove 22 180 46.2 59 35 43.2-30.7 62.8-40.2 Hillsboro 22 203 38.3 58 35 44.0-30.7 63.0-39.8 Yamhill County Cherry Grove 15 900 52.5 57 38 42.2-29.4 58.0-39.3 McMinnville 17 145 42.6 58 37 43.7-30.9 62.8-40.3 Newberg 11 400 48.7 55 38 45.4-33.8 60.3-40.6 Province Average 50.4 56 38 43.9-30.3 61.4-40.2

124 Willamette Ecological Province side of the valley, which is what the along streams and drainages which, It should be noted that the three concept of Willamette Province does. collectively, must have been a signifi- weather stations in DouglasCounty, The high density of trees in the fir cant feature of areas classified as whichreflect average January tempera- forest was one feature particularly agricultural and nonforest. tures that permit growth of herbaceous noted by early surveyors. Douglas-fir plants allwinter,are in the Umpqua also was locally abundant in ravines In the part of the province south of Valley. Thisis at the south end of and on floodplains. Eugene, the vegetation pattern was very WillametteProvince,contiguous to different due, at least partially, to the SiskiyouProvince,where a California- Bottomland forests occupied the flood- narrowing of the valley floor. In this type climate prevails. plains along creeks and rivers. Four part of the province, about 45% was tree species were about equally com- classified as forest with recent cut-over mon: Oregon ash, black cottonwood, land around Cottage Grove. About 25% Management Implications Douglas-fir, and bigleaf maple. Other was classified as nonforest, and about In managing Willamette Province's species included white oak, laurel, 20% was covered by oak. natural resources, it is essential to alder, cherry, and willow. The under- recognize that the basic ecology has not story included a large number of shrub Authors who have written about changed over time. Unless humans species. Towle 31 calls these bottomland Willamette Valley vegetation express intervene, the trend still is and will forests "gallery forests." little doubt that the potential natural continue to be some sort of plant vegetation of the valley and adjacent succession toward a forest climax type Prairie type was grassland vegetation uplands was a forest system of some because of climatic factors in Willam- which occupied a rather large portion type. They also point out that annual ette Province that favor tree growth. of mid-Willamette Valley according to fires set by the Calapooya people, and Habek's map.13 A small portion was to a lesser extent by early settlers, were Calapooya people managed the low, wet prairie, and the remainder was probably the single most important resources for their use with annual upland prairie. Unfortunately, very littlebarrier to forest expansion. fires. Early settlers also used fire but to information is provided about the kinds a lesser extent. As human activities of plants that composed the grasslands The scale and frequency of fires de- increased and expanded in the prov- since surveyors' references to herba- clined abruptly with agricultural settle- ince, more and more restrictions on ceous plants were to "grasses," "ferns," ment; this must have allowed woodland using fire have been enforced. Conse- and "weeds." to transgress on uncultivated prairie in quently, prescribed fire is virtually early days. Areas not cleared for always against some law, except for The study made in the Salem area by farming likely were transformed into limited and specifically approved field Nelson22 provides a list of native and oak forests. and slash burning. Essentially, this introduced grass species. Of the 106 As of1964,an estimated 400,000 hec- means that the natural ecological species listed, 55 were introduced tares (1 million acres) of oak woodland succession in Willamette Province is species and 51 were thought to be were in the Willamette Valley.29 Open largely unimpeded except where farm- native. That was in 1919. It is interest- woodland, an extensive type in 1854, ing practices and approved chemicals, ing that the grasses on well-drained had virtually disappeared by 1970.31 or housing developments, are appli- sites include six species of fescue: Level and gently sloping lands, former- cable (Fig. 44). sixweeks, California, red, western, ly woodlands, were changed to agricul- bearded, and Idaho. In the absence of fire, weeds and brush ture. On steeper slopes, open woodland are early successional stages in a forest changed to forests. The result: a con- Accurate information about forbs climax type. On permanent pasture, siderable drop in number of trees in the associated with native prairie grasses grazing alone is not likely to control valley floor and a considerable increase has not been found. According to brush encroachment permanently. in the number of trees in the hills. Habek, a search for prairie relicts in Severe utilization of the pasture may Willamette Valley was unsuccessful. Several other authors have published actually accelerate brush encroachment assessments of Willamette Province and, eventually, tree encroachment. According to the 1936 State of Oregon vegetation from a historical view- However, using selected classes of Forest Type map54 representing the part point.10, 16, 25, 27 animals, such as sheep and goats, and of Willamette Province north of beneficial grazing management may be Eugene, about 45% of the province was The data for Lane County represent a reasonably successful in postponing classified as agricultural land. About reasonable cross-section of Willamette natural ecological succession toward a 35% was classified as forest, including Province climatic conditions. The forest climax type. huge areas of heavily cut-over and county lies in the center of the prov- second-growth trees in Columbia ince, and data include three stations on Encroachment and increased density of County. About 20% was classified as the main valley floor and three stations woody species in Willamette Province, nonforest. The map, because of scale, in extensions of the valley eastward up which naturally occurs in successional does not show the bottomland forests major drainages. stages toward forest climax, should be

Willamette Ecological Province 125 expected unless deliberately controlled. Table 45. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends Increasing forested areas, coupled with in Willamette Ecological Province, Oregon. growing demand for housing sites in a Station and perceived rural lifestyle, increases the length of record Elevation Average date Average date risk of wildfire damage; increases (years) (feet) growth begins* growth ends* public costs for transportation, sewage, Benton County domestic potable water, pollution con- Alpine 16 400 January 15 Does not occur trol, household services, roads, and Corvallis 21 205 January 25 Does not occur police protection; and sets up conflicts Clackamas County between residents and those who work Estacada 21 414 January 22 Does not occur in agriculture and forestry, even when Miramonte Station 31 162 February 1 Does not occur these enterprises are in equilibrium Portland with sustainable uses of a healthy forest Water Bureau Sta. 22 747 February 15 Does not occur climax. Stafford 22 413 January 22 Does not occur Columbia County As population increases in Willamette Birkensfield 8 540 February 7 Does not occur Province, social aspects of managing Clatskanie 17 50 February 7 Does not occur natural renewable resources in the Doraville 29 600 February 15 Does not occur province certainly are going to increase Vernonia 14 628 February 15 Does not occur in prominence. Douglas County Drain 15 302 Winter growing Does not occur Elkton 15 125 Winter growing Does not occur Province Demarcation Roseburg 57 464 Winter growing Does not occur Hood River County Willamette -Coast Demarcation Cascade Locks 21 100 February 15 Does not occur Starting just west of Rainier on the Hood River Expt. Sta. 22 500 February 25 Does not occur bank of the Columbia River in Colum- Parkdale 22 1,740 March 11 Does not occur bia County, the line of demarcation Lane County between Willamette and Coast prov- Cottage Grove 22 650 January 15 Does not occur inces in Oregon goes west atop steep Eugene 57 361 January 22 Does not occur slopes overlooking Columbia River at Fern Ridge Dam 9 380 February 4 Does not occur about 500 feet elevation. About 6 miles Leaburg 19 675 January 15 Does not occur Does not occur east of Clatskanie, the line cuts sharply McKenzie Bridge 18 1,200 February 22 Oakridge 17 1,275 February 1 Does not occur to the south on topography about 750 to 1,000 feet elevation that is west of Linn County Clatskanie River. Albany 22 212 January 15 Does not occur Cascadia 19 796 February 7 Does not occur At the ridge that separates the Clat- Marion County skanie and Nehalem river drainages, Mount Angel 37 485 January 15 Does not occur the line turns northwest along the north Salem 52 182 January 24 Does not occur side of Nehalem River drainage at Silver Creek Falls 12 1,340 February 15 Does not occur about 1,000 feet elevation. In the upper Multnomah County reaches of Fishhawk Creek, the line 15 55 February 11 Does not occur travels south to cross Nehalem valley Portland 52 33 January 15 Does not occur less than a mile west of Nehalem Polk County community at about 600 feet elevation. Dallas 16 325 February 4 Does not occur From there, it ascends the ridge leading Falls City 20 355 February 1 Does not occur south to Green Mountain where, at an Wallace orchard 21 173 February 1 Does not occur elevation of about 1,750 feet, it circles Washington County east and south of the mountain and Forest Grove 22 180 February 1 Does not occur crosses Sunset Highway (U.S. 26) in Hillsboro 22 203 February 1 Does not occur the headwaters of Rock Creek at about Yamhill County 1,600 feet elevation. Cherry Grove 15 900 February 11 Does not occur McMinnville 17 145 February 1 Does not occur From the summit pass on Highway 26, Newberg 11 400 January 15 Does not occur the line winds southeast at about 1,750 * The average date vegetation growth begins on native perennial bunchgrasses is approxi- feet elevation to the Tillamook- mately the date average daily temperatures reach 39 to 40°F. Average date growth ends is Washington county line. It turns south considered to be when available soil moisture is depleted. Interpretations are based on data at that elevation around the east and in Johnsgard.p

126 Willamette Ecological Province south sides of Round Top and the head- around the east slopes of Flat MountainWillamette Province, at 1,850 feet waters of Gales Creek. It crosses the at about 1,750 feet elevation, and con- elevation and continues southwest at pass between Gales Creek and Wilson tinues south at about that elevation. about 2,000 feet elevation.36 91 River at about 1,600 feet elevation and This is the crest of the Coast Range returns to 1,750 feet elevation to run between drainages flowing into Alsea About 7 miles southwest of Camas south around the headwaters of drain- River to the west and Long Tom River Valley community, in Willamette Prov- ages flowing eastward into Tualatin and to the east. ince, the line of demarcation crosses North Yamhill rivers. Highway 42 along Middle Fork The line of demarcation between Wil- Coquille River at about 800 feet Northwest of McMinnville, the line lamette and Coast provinces continues elevation. From there, the line ascends makes a huge swing westward at about south along the crest of the Coast the ridge southeasterly to Chipmunk 1,750 feet elevation around the head- Range to the pass between Wildcat Ridges' It is near the southeast end of waters of drainages flowing south into Creek to the west and Noti Creek to the Chipmunk Ridge that Willamette, South Yamhill River. The line crosses east, which is about 6 miles southwest Coast, and Siskiyou provinces join. Highway 22 northwest of Grande of Fern Ridge Reservoir. The line Ronde at about 670 feet elevation and continues to wind southeasterly along The line of demarcation between crosses Highway 18 in Van Duzer State the crest of the Coast Range, then Willamette and Coast provinces is Park at about 770 feet elevation. This is descends into the Siuslaw River drain- based primarily on the elevation at the pass between the Yamhill and Sal- age to cross the river about 12 miles which western hemlock grows. How- mon river drainages. downriver from Lorane community, ever, the line also is indicated by the which is northwest of Cottage Grove. general presence of such forested soils From Van Duzer State Park, the line as Bellpine, Jory, Retner, and Bateman ascends the ridge to the south. Within From the river crossing, the line fol- series, which typify Willamette about 3 miles it is again at about 1,750 lows up the northside bottomlands Province, and Bohannon, Blachly, feet elevation on Saddleback Mountain. along the river to about 2 miles east of Preacher, and Digger series, which From there, it goes east and south at King Ranch. The bottomlands along typify Coast Province. about 1,750 feet elevation around Siuslaw River below 600 feet elevation headwaters of drainages flowing into are in the fog-belt zone of Coast Prov- Although the line of demarcation is Yamhill and Little Luckiamute rivers. ince, which is typified by the occa- based on the elevation at which western sional Sitka spruce tree. From the hemlock generally is common in for- From the south side of Monmouth Peak vicinity of King Ranch on the Siuslaw, ested uplands, it is interesting to note in southwest Polk County, the line the line travels southerly along the that at locations along the Coast Range descends the ridge southeasterly to divide between Siuslaw and Smith crest where elevation is significantly cross Luckiamute River at about 650 rivers and then westerly around the below 1,700 feet, the hemlock line is at feet elevation. It climbs Cougar Ridge headwaters of Smith River.93 the pass on the summit. and then winds south along the crest of the Coast Range. The Coast Range From the headwaters of South Fork For example, where Sunset Highway drops in elevation on the narrow divide Smith River about 5 miles northwest of (U.S. 26) crosses the summit into between Marys River and Yaquina Drain community, the line veers west Nehalem River drainage, the province River to about 730 feet elevation at the along the divide between Smith River line is about 1,600 feet elevation. The community of Summit, about 5 miles to the north and drainages flowing into Gales Creek Highway (Oregon 6) northwest of Blodgett on Highway 20. Umpqua River to the south. This summit into Wilson River drainage also portion of the Umpqua system is in is about 1,600 feet elevation. At the From the community of Summit, the Willamette Province. community of Summit on the pass line continues west and south along the between Marys River and Yaquina crest of the Coast Range to cross the About 4 miles north of Scottsburg, the River, the summit is about 730 feet Corvallis-Newport Highway (U.S. 20) line turns south to cross Umpqua River elevation. On Highway 20 between at about 800 feet elevation about 2 at Scottsburg community.36.9' It ascends Corvallis and Newport, the summit is miles northwest of Burnt Woods com- the ridge across the river from Scotts- about 800 feet elevation. On the Alsea munity. This is the pass between Turn- burg and goes southeast along the Highway (Oregon 34), the summit is turn River flowing east and Little Elk ridgetops to the big bends in Umpqua about 1,125 feet elevation. Farther Creek flowing west. From there, the River west of Kellogg community. south, the Willamette-Coast line of line goes south along the crest of the From there, it goes south along the demarcation, based on the advent of Coast Range to Marys Peak, winding ridgetop that divides drainages flowing western hemlock in forested uplands, is north and east around Marys Peak at to the east into Umpqua River from about 600 feet elevation where it about 1,700 feet elevation. The line drainages flowing to the west into Coos crosses Siuslaw River, about 470 feet crosses the pass on Alsea Highway and Coquille rivers. The demarcation where it crosses Umpqua River, and (Oregon 34) at about 1,125 feet eleva- line crosses the Coos Bay Wagon Road about 800 feet where it crosses Middle tion, runs southeast up the ridge and west of Reston community, which is in Fork Coquille River. These rivers have

Willamette Ecological Province 127 major headwaters in Willamette Prov- is about 70 miles long, is not clear-cut environment of Cascade Province as ince. Furthermore, Umpqua River in terms of soil or vegetation differ- compared with Willamette Province. drains sizable watersheds in both ences throughout its extent. Both prov- Cascade and Siskiyou provinces. inces have arid, warm climates with The line travels east around the upper Siskiyou being relatively more and and reaches of drainages into Little River Each of these river crossings and passeswarm than Willamette Province. and then northwest at about 2,000 feet in the crest of the Coast Range, where elevation in the vicinity of Shivigny the advent of western hemlock signifies The line was judged using data in the Mountain, which is in Cascade Prov- the line of demarcation between Wil- 1993 Preliminary General Soil Map, ince. It continues on northwesterly to lamette and Coast provinces, appar- Douglas County, Oregon,95 which cross North Umpqua River about 5 ently represents the points at which the covers the area where the two prov- miles northeast of Glide, which is in effects of the warmer, drier Willamette inces join. The line was drawn between Willamette Province, near Idleyld Park Valley climate are overcome by the upland soils that have been mapped in the topographic gap where Rock more moist, cool coastal climate. definitely within Willamette Province Creek Fish Hatchery is. to the north and upland soils that have been mapped in other areas definitely From this gap, the line heads north at Willamette - Siskiyou Demarcation within Siskiyou Province. Upland soils about 2,000 feet elevation around the From the junction of Willamette, definitely associated with Willamette west slopes of Scott Mountain, Brown Coast, and Siskiyou provinces near Province include Oakland, Sutherlin, Mountain, and across Calapooya Chipmunk Ridge in southwest Douglas Nonpariel, Philomath, and Dixonville Divide. From near Calapooya Divide, County, the line between Willamette series. Upland soils definitely associ- the line goes north at about 1,800 feet and Siskiyou provinces goes along the ated with Siskiyou Province include elevation to the vicinity of Cottage ridgetop north to the vicinity of Live Speaker, Josephine, Lettia, and Beal Grove, extending up each major drain- Oak Mountain and continues northerly series. age that flows into Coast Fork Willam- to circle the headwaters of Olalla ette River. Creek, which are in Siskiyou Province, Broad vegetation characteristics differ- Northeast of Cottage Grove, which is in and then south to Table Mountain. entiate between Willamette and Siski- you provinces. For example, uplands Willamette Province, the line goes gen- From there, the line meanders north- below about 1,300 feet elevation in erally north at about 1,800 feet eleva- easterly along the ridgetop past Buck southern Willamette Province are typi- tion but extending up each major drain- Mountain at about 2,500 feet elevation. fied by the common presence of bigleaf age that flows into Willamette River About 4 miles northwest of Riddle, in maple, Oregon white oak, scotchbroom, from the east. The line extends up Siskiyou Province, the line veers north and some Pacific madrone. Middle Fork Willamette River to about and northwest by Big Baldy Mountain 17 miles south of Oakridge, which is in Equivalent uplands in Siskiyou Willamette Province. along the ridge separating drainages Province are typified by California flowing west into lower Olalla Creek, black oak, wedgeleaf ceanothus, and The line stretches up McKenzie River in Willamette Province, from drainages abundant madrone, which strongly nearly to Belknap Springs; up Cala- in Siskiyou Province that flow north. dominates logged or otherwise dis- pooia River to about King Camp; up South Umpqua River to about House The line descends northwesterly to the turbed forested areas. Certain segments Rock Forest Camp; up Middle Santiam edge of bottomlands along Olalla Creekof the demarcation line between Wil- lamette and Siskiyou provinces demon- River to just below Green Peter Dam; at about 600 feet elevation and follows up North Santiam River to about 6 miles the southern border of these bottom- strate these vegetation comparisons. east of Mill City; up Little North San- lands north and east and along South tiam River to about Elkhorn; up Clacka- Umpqua River, which is in Willamette Willamette -Cascade mas River to about Fish Creek; and up Province at this location, to the bridge Demarcation Sandy River to about Brightwood. where Highway I-5 crosses South From the junction of Willamette, 16,91 Umpqua River. 36, Siskiyou, and Cascade provinces near The pattern of western hemlock From the 1-5 bridge across South Lane Mountain about 10 miles east of growth, extending east up each major Umpqua River, the line climbs the Roseburg, the line of demarcation drainage that heads in the Cascade ridge northeast to Dodson Butte, between Willamette and Cascade Mountains, signifies the effects of the Brushy Butte, and Lane Mountain. It is provinces goes north at about 1,500 warmer, drier Willamette climate near Lane Mountain that the feet elevation on north-facing slopes extending up these valleys. Willamette, Siskiyou, and Cascade and at about 2,800 feet elevation on provinces join.36,5, west- and south-facing slopes. The line The line between Willamette and is based on the advent of western Cascade provinces near Firwood on The line of demarcation between Wil- hemlock in the forest which signifies Highway 26 in Clackamas County is at lamette and Siskiyou provinces, which the colder, more moist effective about 1,600 feet elevation. Farther

128 Willamette Ecological Province north along Sandy River southeast of the general presence of such forested sharply upriver nearly to Mosier, which Portland, western hemlock grows at soils as Honeygrove, Peavine, Bellpine, is in The Dalles Province. about 1,400 feet elevation, including Philomath, Jory, Cazadero, Parkdale, The towns of Hood River and Parkdale near Bridal Veil on the Columbia River. Hoodview, and Bins, which typify Willamette Province, and by Klickitat, and the entire Hood River Valley are in Willamette Province; this is substanti- From the vicinity of Bridal Veil, the Kinney, Bohannon, Holderman, Hen- line of demarcation winds easterly line, Aschoff, Bull Run, Divers, and ated by the common presence of bigleaf maple, which does not grow in The along steep breaks of Columbia Gorge Thader, which typify Cascade Province. to pass west and south of Hood River Dalles Province. Valley, which is in Willamette Prov- The line between The Dalles and ince, at about 3,000 feet elevation. It Willamette -The Dalles Willamette provinces in Oregon, which continues to a point about 6 miles south Demarcation is about 30 miles long, is based on soil of Parkdale in upper Hood River lines between Hood, Van Horn, Oak Valley. Near here, Willamette, Cascade, From the junction of Willamette, and The Dalles provinces join. Cascade, and The Dalles provinces in Grove, and Bins series, which typify Oregon, the line of demaracation Willamette Province in the vicinity of Although the line of demarcation between Willamette and The Dalles Hood River Valley, and Bald, Bodell, between Willamette and Cascade provinces runs along the ridge east of Frailey, and Ketchly series, which provinces in Oregon is based primarily Hood River Valley and northeast down typify The Dalles Province in Oregon.89 on the elevation at which western hem- the ridge nearly to Highway 1-84 along lock grows, the line also is indicated by the Columbia River. Here it veers

Willamette Ecological Province 129 References

1 Anderson,E. W. 1956. Some soil- and grass. In: Research in Range Man- Oregon. Portland, OR: Binfords and plant relationships in eastern Oregon. agement. Agricultural Experiment Mort. Journal of Range Management 9:171- Station Special Report 803. Corvallis: 24Peterson,F. F. 1981. Landforms of 175. Oregon State University and USDA the defined Agricultural Research Station. 2 . 1959. Know your range: for soil survey. Agricultural Experiment Soil-plant relationship studies provide 13 Habek, J. R. 1961.The original Station Technical Bulletin 28. Reno: information important to ranching. In: vegetation of the mid-Willamette University of Nevada. Stockmen's Handbook. Washington Valley, Oregon. Northwest Science 25 Smith, J. E. 1949. Natural vegetation State University, Pullman: Institute of 35(2):65-77. Agricultural Sciences. in the WillametteValley,Oregon. 14 Hanson, H. P. 1942.The influence of Science 109:41-42. 3 . 1962.Behavior of forage volcanic eruptions on post-Pleistocene 26 Thileius, J. F. 1968. TheQuercus yields on some range sites in Oregon. forest succession in central Oregon. garryanaforests of the Willamette Journal of Range Management13:245- American Journal of Botany 29:214-219. 252. Valley, Oregon. Ecology 49(6):1124- 15 Jepson, W.L. 1925. A manual of 1133. 4 . 1983. Ecological site/range flowering plants of California. Berke- 27 Towle, J. C. 1982. Changing geo- site/habitat type-A viewpoint. ley, CA: Sather Gate Bookshop. Rangelands 5:187. graphy of Willamette Valley wood- 16 Johannessen, C.L., W. A. Daven- lands. Oregon Historical Quarterly 5 . 1986. Plant indicators of port, A. Millet, and S. McWilliams. 83(l):67-87. effective environment.Rangelands 1971. The vegetation of the Willamette 28 USDA. 1941 Yearbook of Agricul- 8:70-73. Valley. Annals of the Association of ture: Climate and Man. Washington, American Geographers 61:286-302. 6 Anderson, E. W. and D. L. Franzen. DC: U.S. Government Printing Office. 1983. Rough fescue in Oregon. 17 Johnsgard, G. A. 1963. Temperature Rangelands 5:118. and the water balance for Oregon 29 USDA Soil Conservation Service. weather stations. Agricultural Experi- 1981. Rev. ed. Land resource regions 7Anderson, E. W. and T. E. Bedell. ment Station Special Report 150. and major land resource areas of the 1987. Northwest common-name check Corvallis: Oregon State University. United States. Agricultural Handbook list of plants. Agricultural Experiment 296. Station Special Report 786. Corvallis: 18 Kaatz, M. R. 1959. Patterned ground Oregon State University. in central Washington: A preliminary report. Northwest Science 33:145-156. Unpublished 8 Austin, M. E. 1965. Land resource 30 Dyrness, C. T. Notes for discussion regions and major land resource areas 19 Lyon, T. L. andH. O. Buckman. of the United States. Agricultural Hand- 1934. Rev. ed. The nature and properties of pumice soils with the Deschutes book 296. USDA Soil Conservation of soils. New York: The MacMillan Co. Research Center Advisory Committee, Jan. 20, 1959. Bend, OR. Service. 20 .1943. 4th ed. The nature 31 Towle, J. C. Woodland in the Wil- 9Baldwin, E. M. 1959. Geology of and properties of soils. New York: The Oregon. Eugene: University of Oregon MacMillan Co. lamette Valley: An historical geography. Bookstore. Ph.D. thesis, 1974, Univ. of Oregon, 21 Miller, R. F. and R. F. Angell. 1987. Eugene. 10 Cole, D. 1977. Ecosystem dynamics Competition for soil moisture by in the coniferous forest of the Willam- woody species in the juniper zone. In: ette Valley, Oregon, USA. Journal of Research in Range Management. Agri- Field Studies Biogeography 4:181-192. cultural Experiment Station Special 32 Anderson, E. W. Field studies, 1955. Report 803. Corvallis: Oregon State SCS State Range Conservationist, 11 Eddleman, L. E. 1987.Ecology of University and USDA Agricultural Portland, OR. western juniper. In: Research in Range Research Station. Management. Agricultural Experiment 33 . Field studies, 1973. SCS Station Special Report 803. Corvallis: 22 Nelson, J. C. 1919. Thegrasses of State Range Conservationist, Portland, Oregon State University and USDA- Salem, Oregon and vicinity. Torreya OR. Agricultural Research Station. 19(11):216-227. 34 . Field studies,1974. SCS 12 Eddleman, L. E. and J.A. Rose. 23 Peck, M. E. 1961.A manual of State Range Conservationist, Portland, 1987. Western juniper, ponderosa pine, higher plants of Oregon: Plant areas of OR.

130 References 35 . Fieldstudies, 1976. SCS 52 Hickman, E and F. Greenfield. Field 67 . 1973. Generalsoil map of State RangeConservationist,Portland, studies, circa 1980. SCS Range Conser- Clatsop County, Oregon. OR. vationist/BLM consultant, Bend, OR. 68 . 1974.General soil map of 36 Field studies, 1982. SCS Jackson County, Oregon. State Range Conservationist, Portland, Published Maps 69 . 1974. Generalsoil map of OR. 53 Taylor, G. H. 1993. Normal annual Multnomah County, Oregon. 37 precipitation, State of Oregon, Period .Field studies, 1983. SCS State Range Conservationist, Portland, 1961-1990. Corvallis: Oregon Climate OR. Service, Oregon State University. General soil maps with irrigable areas 38 Anderson, E. W and E. Hill. Field 54 USDA Forest Service. 1936. Forest type map, State of Oregon. Pacific 70 Oregon State University Agricultural studies, circa 1950s and 1960s. SCS Experiment Station, USDA Soil Con- Range Conservationist/Soil Scientist, Northwest Experiment Station, Port- land, OR. servation Service, and Oregon Water Portland, OR. Resources Board. 1969. Oregon's long- 39 Anderson, E. W. and F. Greenfield. 55 U.S. Geological Survey. 1958. range requirements for water: Des- Field studies, 1958. SCS Range Con- 1:250,000 topograhpic quad map, chutes Drainage Basin. servationists, Portland, OR. Boise, Idaho; Oregon. NK#11-2. 71 . 1969.Oregon's long-range requirements for water: John Day 40 Anderson, E. W. and W. Currier. General soil maps Field studies, circa 1960s. SCS Range in soil survey reports Drainage Basin. Conservationists, Portland, OR. 56 USDA Natural Resources Conserva- 72 . 1969.Oregon's long-range 41 Anderson, E. W., D. Town, and B. tion Service. 1997 (in press). Soil requirementsfor water: Malheur Lake Lovell. Field studies, 1962. SCS Range survey of Curry County, Oregon. Drainage Basin. Conservationist/Soil Scientists, Port- 57 . 1997 (in press). Soil sur- 73 . 1969. Oregon'slong-range land, OR. vey of Warm Springs Indian Reserva- requirements for water: Malheur River 42 Anderson, E. W. and B. Lovell. tion, Oregon. Drainage Basin. Field studies, circa 1970. SCS Range 58 USDA Soil Conservation Service. 74 . 1969. Oregon'slong-range Conservationist/Soil Scientist, Portland, 1957. Soil survey of Tillamook County, requirementsfor water: Owyhee OR. Oregon. Drainage Basin. 43 Anderson, E. W. and D. Town. Field 59 . 1983. Soil surveyof studies, 1970. SCS Range Conserva- Josephine County, Oregon. Unpublished Maps tionists, Portland, OR. 60 . 1989. Soil surveyof Coos 75 USDA Soil Conservation Service. 44 Anderson, E. W. and G. Green. Field County, Oregon. General soil map, Umatilla County, studies, 1974. SCS Range Conserva- Oregon, 1969. tionist/Soil Scientist, Portland, OR. 61 . 1993. Soil surveyof Jackson County, Oregon. 76 . General soil map,Benton 45 . Field studies, 1975. SCS County, Oregon, 1970. 62 USDA Soil Conservation Service Range Conservationist/Soil Scientist, and USDA Forest Service. 1970. Soil 77 Portland, OR. General soil map, Clack- survey of Trout Creek-Shaniko Area, amas County, Oregon, 1970. 46 . Field studies, 1976. SCS Oregon. 78 Range Conservationist/Soil Scientist, . General soil map,Gilliam Portland, OR. Soil maps with soil interpretations County, Oregon, 1970. for land-use planning 79 47 Greenfield, F. Field studies, 1980. . Generalsoil map, Klamath BLM consultant. 63 USDA Soil Conservation Service County, Oregon, 1970. and Oregon State University Agricul- 48 Hickman, E. Field studies, 1975. tural Experiment Station. 1970. General 80 .General soil map, Linn SCS Range Conservationist, Bend, OR. soil map of Washington County, Oregon. County, Oregon, 1970. 49 Field studies, 1981. SCS 64 . 1970. General soil mapof 81 . General soil map,Polk Range Conservationist, Bend, OR. Yamhill County, Oregon. County, Oregon, 1970. 50 Field studies, 1984. SCS 65 . 1972. Generalsoil map of 82 General soil map, Grant Range Conservationist, Bend, OR. Columbia County, Oregon. County, Oregon, 1971. 51 . Fieldstudies, 1994. SCS 66 . 1972. Generalsoil map of 83 General soil map, Jefferson Range Conservationist, Bend, OR. Morrow County, Oregon. County, Oregon, 1971.

References 131 84 . General soil map, Lake 89 . General soil map, Hood 94 . General soil map, County, Oregon, 1971. River County, Oregon, 1973. Malheur County, Oregon, 1974. 85 . General soil map, 90 General soil map, 95 . Preliminary general soil Morrow County, Oregon, 1971. Wheeler County, Oregon, 1973. map, Douglas County, Oregon, 1993. 86 . General soil map, Wasco 91 . General soil map, 96 General soil map, Warm County, Oregon, 1971. Douglas County, Oregon, 1974. Springs Indian Reservation, 1994.

87 . General soil map, Coos 92 . General soil map, Harney County, Oregon, 1972. County, Oregon, 1974. 88 . General soil map, Lincoln 93 General soil map, Lane County, Oregon, 1972. County, Oregon, 1974.

132 References Common-name Checklist of Plants'

Grasses* Common name Scientific name Common name Scientific name Alkaligrass, Lemmon Puccinella lemmoni Needlegrass Stipa Barley, meadow Horde um brachyantherum Columbia occidentalis nelsoni (Criteseon brachyantherum) desert speciosa Bentgrass, thin Agrostis diegoensis Lemmon lemmoni thurberiana Bluegrass Poa Thurber occidentalis big ampla western alkali juncifolia Oatgrass (Danthonia) Danthonia Canby canbyi California californica Cusick cusickii onespike unispicata hotsprings laxiflora timber intermedia Kentucky pratensis Oatgrass, tall Arrhenatherum elatius Leiberg leibergii Oniongrass Melica bulbosa Nevada nevadensis Alaska subulata pine scabrella Orchardgrass Dactylis glomerata Sandberg sandbergii Pinegrass Calamagrostis rubescens Wheeler nervosa Quackgrass Agropyron repens (Elytrigia Brome Bromus repens) California carinatus Reedgrass, bluejoint Calamagrostis canadensis Columbia vulgaris mountain marginatus Redtop Agrostis alba soft mollis Ricegrass Oryzopsis hymenoides Cheatgrass Indian Webber webberi Cordgrass Spartina gracilis Ryegrass Lolium Danthonia (see Oatgrass) Italian multiflorum Dropseed, sand Sporobolus cryptandrus perennial perenne Fescue Festuca Sacaton, alkali Sporobolus airoides bearded subulata Saltgrass Distichlis California californica alkali stricta foxtail megalura inland (see Saltgrass, alkali) green viridula Sitanion hystrix (Elymus Idaho idahoensis Squirreltail, bottlebrush red rubra elymoides) rough scabrella Sweetgrass, California Hierochloa occidentalis sixweeks octoflora Threeawn, Fendler Aristida fendleriana western occidentalis Timothy Phleum Hairgrass Aira alpine alpinum diffuse elegans common pratense silver caryophyllea Trisetum Trisetum Hairgrass Deschampsia spike spicatum slender elongata tall canescens tufted caespitosa Velvetgrass, common Holcus lanatus Junegrass, prairie Koeleria cristata (continued) Mannagrass, northern Glyceria borealis Medusahead Taeniatherum caput-medusae * Barkworth, M. E. and D. R. Dewey. 1985. Genomically Melic, western Melica based genera in the perennial Tritieae of North America: Identification and membership. American Journal of Muhly, mat Muhlenbergia richardsonis Botany 72(5):767-776. Barkworth and Dewey's proposed Needle-and-thread Stipa comata revisions noted in parentheses.

Common-name Checklist of Plants 133 Grasses (continued)

Common name Scientific name Common name Scientific name Wheatgrass Agropyron Wildrye Elymus bearded caninum basin cinereus (Leymus cinereus) beardless bluebunch inerme (Pseudoroegneria blue glaucus spicatasubsp.inermis) medusahead (see Medusahead) bluebunch spicatum (Pseudoroegneria yellow flavescens (Leymus spicata subsp. spicata) flavescens) slender trachycaulum (Elymus Woodreed, drooping Cinna latifolia trachycaulus) standard crested desertorum streambank riparium (Elymus lanceolatussubsp. lanceolotus) thickspike dasystachyum (Elymus lanceolatus subsp. lanceolotus)

Grasslike Common name Scientific name Common name Scientific name Bulrush Scirpusspp. Sedge Carex Rush Juncus black alpine nigricans baltic balticus Crater Lake scopulorum Drummond drummondii elk geyeri Hood hoodii Nebraska nebraskensis Ross rossii threadleaf filifolia Spikesedge (Spikerush) Eleocharisspp. Spikerush (Spikesedge) Eleocharisspp.

orbs Common name Scientific name Common name Scientific name Arnica Arnicaspp. Dock Rumex Aster, alpine Aster alpigenus veiny venosus Balsamroot Balsamorhiza wedgeleaf cuneifolius arrowleaf sagittata Dogbane Apocynumspp. Carey careyana Dogwood, bunchberry Cornus canadensis Hooker hookeri False-hellebore Veratrumspp. Beargrass Xerophyllum tenax False Solomon's seal (see Solomon's seal, false) Bedstraw, cleavers Galium aparine Fern, western bracken Pteridium aquilinum Biscuitroot Lomatiumspp. Fern, western sword Polystichum munitum Bitterroot Lewisia rediviva Fleeceflower Polygonumspp. Buttercup Ranunculusspp. Frasera Frasera (Swertia) Cattail, broadleaf latifolia shining finitida Cinquefoil Potentillaspp. Gumweed, curlycup Grindellia squarrosa Clover, big-headed Trifolium macrocephalum Hawkweed, white Hieracium albiflorum Deervetch Lotus Iodine bush (see Pickleweed) big crassifolius Iris Irisspp. Douglas douglasii Lewisia, bitterroot Lewisia rediviva Desert-parsley Lomatiumspp. (continued)

134 Common-name Checklist of Plants Forbs (continued) Common name Scientific name Common name Scientific name Licoriceroot Ligusticumspp. Scurfpea Psoraleaspp. Loco, woollypod Astragalus purshii Solomon's seal, false Smilacina racemosa Lomatium Lomatium Spiderflower, yellow Cleome lutea barestem nudicaule Starflower Trientalisspp. Gorman Gormanii Strawberry Fragariaspp. Lupine Lupinusspp. Sweetroot, mountain Osmorhiza chilensis Meadowrue Thalictrumspp. Tarragon Artemisia dracunculus Milkvetch, Columbia Astragalus succumbens Trillium Trilliumspp. Onion Alliumspp. Twinflower Linnaea borealis Parsley, desert (see Vetch, American Vicia americana Desert-parsley) Woollyweed Hieracium scouleri Pathfinder denocaulon bicolor Wormwood Artemisia Pearly everlasting Anaphalis margaritacea Douglas douglasiana Peavine Lathyrusspp. lobed vulgaris Penstemon Penstemonspp. Louisiana ludoviciana Phantom-orchid Eburophyton austinae Wormwood pterixia (see Phlox, spreading Phlox diffusa Pteryxia, wormwood) Pickleweed (Iodine bush) Allenrolfea occidentalis Wyethia, woolly Wyethia mollis Pricklypear, plains Opuntia polycantha Yampa Perideridia gairdneri Pteryxia, wormwood Peteryxia terebinthina Yarrow Achillea millefolium Sandwort Arenariaspp.

Shrubs and Trees Common name Scientific name Common name Scientific name Alder Alnus Ceanothus Ceanothus mountain tenuifolia deerbrush integerrimus red rubra redstem sanguineus Sitka sinuata snowbrush velutinus Ash, Oregon Fraxinus latifolia squawcarpet prostratus Aspen, quaking Populus tremuloides wedgeleaf cuneatus Azalea Rhododendron Cherry Prunus Cascade albiflorum bitter emarginata western occidentale choke virginiana Bearberry (see Manzanita, bearberry) Chinkapin Castanopsis bush sempervirens Birch Betula golden chrysophylla bog pumila Cinquefoil Potentillaspp. Bitterbrush, antelope Purshia tridentata Cottonwood, black Populus trichocarpa Blackberry Rubus Currant Ribes dwarf lasiococcus black trailing laxiflorum evergreen laciniatus Crater Lake erythrocarpum strawberryleaf pedatus golden aureum trailing nivalis mapleleaf acerifolium Buckthorn, California Rhamnus californica redflower sanguineum Buckwheat Eriogonum sticky viscosissimum barestem nudum wax cereum heartleaf compositum Deerbrush Ceanothus integerrimus snow niveum (continued) Buffaloberry, silver Shepherdia argentea California-laurel Umbellularia californica

Common-name Checklist of Plants 135 Shrubs and Trees (continued) Common name Scientific name Common name Scientific name Dewberry Rubus Madrone, Pacific Arbutus menziesii snow nivalis Manzanita Arctostaphylos western vitifolius bearberry uva-ursi Dogwood Corpus common manzanita flowering (see Dogwood, gray cinerea Pacific flowering) greenleaf patula Pacific flowering nuttalli hoary canescens western red californica pinemat nevadensis Douglas-fir Pseudotsuga whiteleaf viscida coastal menziesii menziesii Maple Acer interior menziesii glauca bigleaf macrophyllum Elderberry Sambucus Rocky Mountain glabrum blue cerulea vine circinatum red racemosa arborescens Menziesia,rustyleaf Menziesia ferruginea Ephedra Ephedra Mockorange (Syringa) Philadelphus lewisii green viridis Mountain-ash Sorbus Nevada nevadensis dwarf occidentalis Fir Abies Pacific sitchensis grand grandis Mountain-mahogany Cercocarpus noble procera birchleaf montanus Pacific silver amabilis curlleaf ledifolius Shasta red magnifica shastensis Ninebark, common Physocarpus opulifolius subalpine lasiocarpa Oak Quercus white concolor California black kelloggii Gooseberry Ribes canyon live chrysolepis desert velutinum huckleberry vaccinifolia Watson watsonianum Oregon white garryana Granitegilia Leptodactylon pungens Sadler sadleriana Greasewood, black Sarcobatus vermiculatus Oceanspray Holodiscus discolor Hawthorn, black Crataegus douglasii Oregon-grape Berberis Hazel,western Corylus cornuta Cascade nervosa Hemlock Tsuga low repens mountain mertensiana tall aquifolium western heterophylla Pachystima Pachystima myrsinites Hopsage, spiny Grayia spinosa Pine Pinus Honeysuckle Lonicera spp. Jeffrey jeffreyi Horsebrush Tetradymia knobcone attenuata gray canescens lodgepole contorta latifolia littleleaf glabrata ponderosa ponderosa spiny spinosa shore contorta contorta sugar lambertiana Huckleberry Vaccinium western white monticola blue globulare whitebark albicaulis evergreen ovatum grouse scoparium Pipsissewa ovalleaf ovalfolium (Prince's-pine,common) Chimaphila umbellata red parvifolium Plum, Klamath Prunus subcordata thinleaf membranaceum Port-Orford-cedar Chamaecyparis lawsoniana Incense-cedar Libocedrus decurrens Poison-oak,Pacific Rhus diversiloba Juniper, western Juniperus occidentalis Prince's-pine, common Kalmia, bog Kalmia microphylla (Pipsissewa) Chimaphila umbellata Larch, western Larix occidentalis (continued)

136 Common-name Checklist of Plants Shrubs and Trees (continued) Common name Scientific name Common name Scientific name

Purple sage (see Sage, desert) Shadscale Atriplex confertifolia Rabbitbrush Chrysothamnus Silktassel, boxleaf Garrya buxifolia gray (rubber) nauseosus nauseosus Snakeweed, broom Gutierrezia sarothrae lanceleaf green viscidifloruslanceolatus Snowberry Symphoricarpos rubber (gray) nauseosus nauseosus common albus threadleaf green viscidiflorus stenophyllus mountain oreophilus green viscidiflorus viscidiflorus Snowbrush Ceanothus velutinus Redcedar,western Thuja plicata Spirea Spiraea Redwood Sequoia sempervirens birchleaf betulifolia Rhododendron, Pacific Rhododendron macrophyllum Douglas douglasii Rockspirea, bush Holodiscus dumosus mountain (subalpine) densiflora Rose Rosa shinyleaf betulifolia lucida baldhip gymnocarpa subalpine (mountain) densiflora Nootka nutkana Spruce Picea pearfruit pisocarpa Brewer breweriana sweetbrier eglanteria Engelmann engelmannii Sage, desert (Purple sage) Salvia dorrii Sitka sitchensis Sagebrush Artemisia Squawapple Peraphyllum ramosissimum basin big tridentata tridentata Syringa (see Mockorange) black arbuscula nova Tanoak Lithocarpus densiflora bud spinescens Thimbleberry Rubus parviflorus low arbuscula arbuscula Whipplevine Whipplea modesta mountain big tridentata vaseyana silver cana cana Willow Salix stiff (rigid) rigida feathervein pennata threetip tripartita Pacific lasiandra Wyoming big tridentata wyomingensis Piper piperi Scouler acouleriana Salal Gaultheria shallon Sierra orestera Saltbush,Nuttall Atriplex nuttallii Winterfat Eurotia lanata Scotchbroom Cytisus scoparius Wintergreen, Oregon Gaultheria ovatifolia Serviceberry Amelanchier Yew,Pacific Taxus brevifolia Utah utahensis western florida

Common-name Checklist of Plants 137 Index of Tables

Table 1. Climatic Data for Blue Mountain Ecological Province...... 7 Table 2. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends in Blue Mountain Ecological Province...... 9 Table 3. Major Ecological Sites in Blue Mountain Ecological Province...... 11 Table 4. Distribution of Prominent Soil Series in Cascade Ecological Province...... 15 Table 5. Climatic Data for Cascade Ecological Province...... 16 Table 6. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends in Cascade Ecological Province...... 17 Table 7. Comparison of the More Abundant and Characteristic Grass, Shrub, and Tree Species inCascade,Coast, and Willamette Ecological Provinces ...... 18-19 Table 8. Distribution of Prominent Soil Series in Coast Ecological Province...... 22 Table 9. Climatic Data for Coast Ecological Province ...... 23 Table 10. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends in Coast Ecological Province...... 24 Table 11.Climatic Data for Columbia Basin Ecological Province...... 31 Table 12.Generalized Moisture Equivalents (FieldCapacity)of Various Soil Textures ...... 32 Table 13.Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends in Columbia Basin Ecological Province...... 33 Table 14. Major Ecological Sites in Columbia Basin Ecological Province...... 35 Table 15.Climatic Data for High Desert Ecological Province...... 39 Table 16.Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends in High Desert Ecological Province...... 41 Table 17. Major Ecological Sites in High Desert Ecological Province ...... 42-43 Table 18.Climatic Data for HumboldtCounty,Nevada ...... 48 Table 19. Major Ecological Sites in Humboldt Ecological Province...... 49-50 Table 20.Climatic Data for John Day Ecological Province...... 55 Table21.Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends in John Day Ecological Province...... 56 Table 22. Major Ecological Sites in John Day Ecological Province...... 58-59 Table 23.Climatic Data for Klamath Ecological Province...... 64 Table 24. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends in Klamath Ecological Province...... 65 Table 25. Major Ecological Sites in Klamath Ecological Province...... 66-67 Table 26.Climatic Data for Mazama Ecological Province...... 87 Table 27. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends in Mazama Ecological Province...... 88 Table 28. Major Ecological Sites and Vegetation Zones in Mazama Ecological Province...... 90-91 Table 29. Major Ecological Sites and Natural Landforms in Owyhee Ecological Province...... 96 Table 30.Climatic Data for Palouse Ecological Province...... 99 Table 31. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends in Palouse Ecological Province...... 99 Table 32.Parent Materials and Distribution of Some Representative Soil Series in Siskiyou Ecological Province...... 101 Table 33.Climatic Data for Siskiyou Ecological Province...... 102 Table 34. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends in Siskiyou Ecological Province...... 103 Table 35.Distribution of Prominent Woody-plant Species by County and Soil Parent Materials in Siskiyou Ecological Province ...... 104-105 Table 36. Some Major Ecological Sites in Siskiyou Ecological Province ...... 106-107 Table 37.Climatic Data for Snake River Ecological Province...... 110 Table 38. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends in Snake River Ecological Province...... 111 Table 39. Major Ecological Sites in Snake River Ecological Province...... 113 Table 40.Climatic Data for The Dalles Ecological Province...... 117 Table 41. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends in The Dalles Ecological Province...... 118 Table 42. Major Ecological Sites in The Dalles Ecological Province...... 119 Table 43.Distribution of Some Representative Soil Series in Willamette Ecological Province...... 123 Table 44.Climatic Data for Willamette Ecological Province...... 124 Table 45. Average Dates Vegetation Growth Begins and Ends in Willamette Ecological Province ...... 126

138 Index of Tables