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European Rivers Sip Your Wine While Watching Picture- Perfect European Scenery Breeze Past – Castles, Medieval Villages and Fields of Flowers

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to European Rivers Sip your wine while watching picture- perfect European scenery breeze past – castles, medieval villages and fields of flowers. European river cruises are elegantly casual affairs, perfect for exploring the arts and culture that beckon ashore. Active travellers, nature and culture aficionados, CRUISE PORTS as well as families of all sizes, have discovered that cruising down a quiet, traffic-free river, surrounded by scenic riverfront views, is an ideal way to see Europe. This change in European travel is unfolding in real time, as each year more and more cruise lines offer immersive learning experiences such as EUROPEAN cooking classes and home visits, or activities like bicycle trips and long hikes. In fact, a river cruise is often the best way to experience destinations for the first time. RIVERS And, of course, there’s the food. Many cruise lines offer a regional menu or serve almost solely local cuisine. They know their guests are keen to indulge and cook accordingly. Look for cruises offering cooking classes with the chef as an added bonus. By necessity, European riverboats are far smaller than the vessels that cruise the Mediterranean and A GUIDE TO PERFECT DAYS ON SHORE Baltic Seas. Passenger numbers are usually fewer than 200, making these cruises a far more social and intimate experience. More frequent stops mean much more onshore activity. Additionally, there are no inside cabins on a Euro- pean river cruise. Cabins come with a large window at the very least, and a great many have their own balcony or floor-to-ceiling panoramic views. You might even forego the ship’s entertainment just to watch the scenery breeze past.

Andy Symington, Mark Baker, Oliver Berry, Kerry Christiani, Gregor Clark, picture-perfect European Marc Di Duca, Steve Fallon, Damian Harper, Catherine Le Nevez, Leonid scenery: castles, medieval Ragozin, Kevin Raub, Simon Richmond, Brendan Sainsbury, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Regis St Louis, Benedict Walker, Nicola Williams. villages and fields of flowers

Passau, Germany (p88) MICHAEL RUNKEL/ROBERTHARDING/GETTY IMAGES © Barents Sea GREENLAND Greenland 2 Sea ^# Murmansk 0 1,000 Kilometers Tromsø^# 0 500 miles

FINLAND White Sea #_ ICELAND Norwegian ^# REYKJAVÍK Sea Contents Rovaniemi VOLGA & ^# RUSSIAN Luleå WATERWAYS Plan Your Trip p201 European Rivers’ Western Danube, Seine, France 115 Austria & ^# Top 12 ������������������������ 4 Eiffel Tower �������������� 118 ^# Petrozavodsk Trondheim ^# SWEDEN Vaasa Need to Know ����������16 Germany 69 Musée du Louvre �����120 ^#Sundsvall RUSSIA Hotspots For... ���������18 Schloss Schönbrunn, Cathédrale Notre ^# Tampere Month by Month �����20 Vienna �������������������������72 Dame de Paris ����������124 NORWAY ga ^# St Petersburg Vol Get Inspired ������������ 23 Kunsthistorisches Walking Tour: Arty #_ ^# HELSINKI Yaroslavl ^# ^# Choose Your Museum, Vienna ��������74 Montmartre ��������������126 Shetland Bergen OSLO #_ Nizhny #_ TALLINN Cruise ��������������������� 24 Walking Tour: Vienna’s Paris ���������������������������� 128 #_ Novgorod Orkney STOCKHOLM ESTONIA Tver ^# Sustainable Rouen �������������������������� 138 ^# Historic Centre ����������76 NORTHERN Pskov Cruising ������������������30 Le Havre �����������������������141 ELBE #_ Exploring RHINE Gotland p143 Family Time Nuremberg’s p35 RĪGA#_ LATVIA Ashore �������������������� 32 Altstadt ����������������������78 Glasgow Baltic Elbe, Czech NORTHERN ^# ^# North Sea ^#Smolensk Vienna, Austria ������������ 80 Sea LITHUANIA IRELAND Belfast COPENHAGEN Passau, Germany ���������88 Republic & ^# DENMARK #_ #_ Kaliningrad DNIEPER Regensburg, Germany 143 MOSELLE ^# VILNIUS #_ MINSK NORTH #\ MAIN p231 Northern Rhine, Galway p167 Germany ���������������������� 90 Prague Castle ����������146 ATLANTIC #_DUBLIN p265 OCEAN IRELAND Hamburg BELARUS Germany 35 Nuremberg, Walking Tour: Prague ^# #\ ENGLAND Kölner Dom, Germany �����������������������92 River Walk ����������������150 Cork WALES NETHERLANDS E POLAND WARSAW ^# lbe #_ #_ #_ BERLIN Kharkiv Cologne ����������������������38 Frauenkirche, Cardiff ^# #_ KYIVD #_ GERMANY nie Donetsk Walking Tour: Explore Dresden �������������������� 152 WESTERN per ^# BELGIUM Dresden ^# Eastern Danube, ^# Cologne Walk ������������ 40 In the Footsteps English #_ #\ Cologne DAKNrUaBkóEw Dnipropetrovsk SEINE ^# Lviv UKRAINE Cologne ������������������������42 of Martin Luther, Channel Frankfurt PRAGUE p^#69 Hungary & p115 Rouen #\ Main #_ #\ Dn Koblenz �������������������������47 ^# #\ Trier ie Wittenberg ���������������154 Bamberg CZECH ster Serbia 97 S PARIS REPUBLIC MOLDOVA Speyer ���������������������������49 Prague, #_ #\ SLOVAKIA ei Regensburg CHIŞINĂU Royal , n ^# #_ Czech Republic ���������� 156 SOUTHERN e Strasbourg ^# #_#_ BRATISLAVA Iaşi ^# Munich^# Budapest ����������������� 100 RHINE VIENNA #_ Odesa Dresden, Germany ����� 162 ^# EASTERN Thermal Baths p53 Basel ^# Zürich AUSTRIA BUDAPEST #] Southern Rhine, Lutherstadt Wittenberg, #_ DANUBE & Spas, Budapest ����102 Bay of BERN HUNGARY Sevastapol France, Germany & Germany �������������������� 164 Biscay p97 ROMANIA Geneva ^# SWITZERLAND SLOVENIA Belgrade Fortress ����104 FRANCE ^# ^# CROATIA #_ Constanţa Black Switzerland 53 Budapest, Hungary ����106 Lyon ^# ^# Danube Sea DOURO e Venice #_ n BUCHAREST The European Quarter, Belgrade, Serbia ���������� 111 RHÔNE ô Milan BELGRADE p181 h BOSNIA & R Strasbourg �����������������56 p249 SAN MARINO HERCEGOVNIA SERBIA Bilbao ^# Avingon^# #_ BULGARIA #_ MONACO Strasbourg, France ������58 ^# KOSOVO #_SOFIA ^#Douro Marseille MONTENEGRO İstanbul^# Breisach, Germany ������63 Porto #_ ANKARA NORTH #_ Basel, Switzerland �������64 Corsica MACEDONIA #_ROME PORTUGAL ^#Barcelona (France) #_ ^# Bari ALBANIA TURKEY ^# LISBON #_ Aegean ^# Sardinia GREECE Sea SPAIN Valencia (Italy) Corfu ^# İzmir

]#Cordoba #_ Seville^# Ionian ATHENS Mediterranean Palermo^# Sea Sea Sicily CYPRUS ^# Sea of Crete Crete MOROCCO ALGERIA TUNISIA #_ ! Contents PLAN YOUR TRIP 3 *

Moselle, Volga & Russian Rhône, Germany 167 Waterways, France 249 Bouchon Dining, Trier’s Roman Russia 201 Lyon ������������������������� 252 �������������� 170 Kremlin, Moscow ����204 Vieux Lyon ��������������� 254 Wine Tasting in the Red Square & Lyon �����������������������������256 Moselle Valley ���������� 172 St Basil’s Cathedral, Vienne ������������������������ 260 Trier ������������������������������174 Moscow ������������������� 208 Avignon ���������������������� 260 Bernkastel-Kues ���������177 State Hermitage Cochem ���������������������� 179 Museum, St Petersburg ����������210 Main, Walking Tour: St Douro, Petersbrug’s Historic Germany 265 Portugal 181 Heart �������������������������216 Würzburg Residenz ������������������ 268 Ribeira ����������������������184 Moscow ���������������������� 218 Frankfurt am Main �����270 Vila Nova de Gaia ����186 St Petersburg �������������223 Würzburg ��������������������273 Walking Tour: Porto City Centre ���������������188 Bamberg ���������������������274 Porto ���������������������������190 Dnieper, Peso da Régua ������������198 Ukraine 231 Pinhão �������������������������199 Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra, Kyiv ��������������� 234 Odesa’s Beaches ��� 236 Kyiv �����������������������������238 Odesa ��������������������������244

In Focus 277 Survival Guide 301 Europe Today �������������278 Directory A–Z ������������ 302 History ����������������������� 280 Transport ������������������� 306 European Art ������������� 288 Language ������������������� 308 European Index ����������������������������311 Architecture ���������������293 Symbols & Map Key ��� 319 Food & Drink ���������������297

Schwarzwälder kirschtorte (Black Forest cherry cake) ANNA_PUSTYNNIKOVA/SHUTTERSTOCK © ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

310 Behind the Scenes

Acknowledgements Harper, Catherine Le Nevez, Kevin Raub, Leonid Ragozin, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Simon Richmond, Brendan Sains- Cover photograph: Cochem Castle, bury, Regis St Louis, Benedict Walker and Nicola Williams. Moselle Valley, Germany; Calle Montes/ This guidebook was produced by the following: Getty Images © Destination Editors Jennifer Carey, Dan Fahey, Gem- Climate map data adapted from Peel ma Graham, Niamh O’Brien, Tom Stainer, Branislava MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA Vladisavljevic (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Senior Product Editor Sandie Kestell Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, Product Editor Shona Gray 11, 163344. Senior Cartographer Mark Griffiths Book Designer Virginia Moreno Illustrations pp122–3, 206–7 and 214–5 by Javier Zarracina. Assisting Editors Judith Bamber, Imogen Bannister, Michelle Bennett, Nigel Chin, Katie Connolly, Jacqueline Danam, Melanie Dankel, Emma Gibbs, Kellie Langdon, Ali- This Book son Morris, Rosie Nicholson, Lorna Parkes, Susan Paterson, Monique Perrin, Sarah Reid, Fionnuala Twomey, Simon This 1st edition of Lonely Planet’s Williamson Cruise Ports European Rivers guide- book was researched and written by Cover Researcher Naomi Parker Andy Symington, Mark Baker, Oliver Thanks to Brooke Giacomin, Sandra Henriques Gajjar, Berry, Kerry Christiani, Gregor Clark, Evan Godt, Kate Mathews, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridgway Marc Di Duca, Steve Fallon, Damian

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INDEX A-C 311

Odesa 236-7 Festung Ehrenbreitstein 48 Index beer 47, 161 Hofburg 80 Belgrade 104-5, 111-13, 112 Kaiserappartements 80 A activities 111 Kaiserburg 78 accessible travel 29, 302 drinking 113 Marble Palace 226 Alto Douro 198 food 111, 113 Mikhailovsky Castle 226 Altstadt (Nuremberg) 78-9 nightlife 113 Neuf-Brisach 63 archaeological sites & ruins, see shopping 111 Old Royal Palace 148 also Roman sites sights 111 Palácio da Bolsa 185 Burg Landshut 177 tourist information 113 Palais des Papes 260-1 Kolumba 40 transport 113 Peter & Paul Fortress 227 MiQua Archaeological Zone 41 Belgrade Fortress 104-5 Peterhof 227 Trier 170-1 Bernkastel-Kues 177-9 Prague Castle 146-9 architecture 293-6 boating 61 Reichsburg 179 Baroque 295-6 books 23 Royal Palace, Budapest 100-1 Classicism 293 bouchons 252-3 Schloss Belvedere 85 Dancing House (Prague) 150 Breisach 63-4 Schloss Schönbrunn 72-3 Gothic 294 bridges Schloss Thurn und Taxis 90 Modernism 296 Charles Bridge 156 Stroganov Palace 226 Renaissance 295 Mittlere Brücke 64 Veste Oberhaus 89 Romanesque 294 Pont St-Bénézet 261 Würzburg Residenz 268 São Bento Train Station 190 Ponte de Dom Luís I 185 Zwinger 162 Singer Building 216 Römerbrücke 171 Cathédrale Notre art & design 19, 288-92 Budapest 8, 100-3, 106-11, 108-9 Dame de Paris 124-5 art galleries, see museums & drinking 110 cathedrals, see churches & galleries entertainment 110 cathedrals Avignon 15, 260-3, 262 food 107 caves 101 itineraries 98 cell phones 16, 305 B nightlife 110 cemeteries 128-9 Bamberg 15, 274-5, 275 shopping 106-7 chocolate 62 Basel 6, 64-7, 66 sights 106 Christmas Markets 22 activities 67 tourist information 110 churches & cathedrals 18 food 67 transport 110 Abbatiale St-Ouen 139 sights 64-5 Budapest Spring Festival 21 Archangel Cathedral 205 tourist information 67 business hours 17 Assumption Cathedral 204 transport 67 Bamberger Dom 274 Bastille Day 22 Basilica of St George 149 Bavaria 7 C Basilica of St Stephen 106 cable cars beaches Basilique du Sacré-Cœur 128 Seilbahn 49 Kyiv 241 Basilique Notre Dame de Teleférico de Gaia 182, 187 Fourvière 255 castles, & fortresses 18 000 Map pages Cathédrale Notre Dame Belgrade Fortress 104-5 (Rouen) 138 312 C-F INDEX churches & cathedrals St Stephansmünster 64 continued St Ursula 43 D design, see art & design Cathédrale Notre-Dame St Vitus Cathedral 156 Dnieper 14, 18, 231-47, (Strasbourg) 58 Stadt- und Pfarrkirche St 233 Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Marien 155 information 233 Paris 124-5 Stephansdom 81 transport 233 Cathédrale St-Jean-Baptiste St-Gangolf-Kirche 174 Douro 12, 19, 181-99, 183 254 Trierer Dom 174 information 183 Cathedral of Christ the climate 302, 16 transport 183 Saviour 218 climate change 307 Dresden 10, 152-3, 162-4, 162 Church of the Saviour Not Cochem 179 drinking, see Made by Human Hand 217 individual destinations Cologne 4, 42-7, Church of the Saviour on the 44 Spilled Blood 226-7 activities 45 Cologne Cathedral 38-9 drinking 46-7 E Eastern Danube 8, 18, 97-113, Dominikanerkirche 77 food 46 99 information 99 Dom St Kilian 273 itineraries 36 transport 99 Dom St Peter 90 shopping 46 Eiffel Tower 118-19 Dom St Stephan 88 nightlife 46-7 Elbe 10, 18, 143-65, Église St-Joseph 141 sights 42-5 145 information 145 Église St-Pierre de tourist information 47 Montmartre 127 tours 45 transport 145 Frauenkirche (Dresden) 152-3 transport 47 electricity 302-3 Igreja da Misericórdia 188 walks 40-1, 40-1 emergency numbers 305 Igreja de São Francisco 184 Cologne cathedral 38-9 environmental issues 30, 279 Jesuitenkirche (Vienna) 77 convents, see also churches & European Court of Human Rights 57 Kaiserdom 270 cathedrals, monasteries European Parliament 56 Karlskirche (Vienna) 84 Convent of St Agnes 151 European Quarter, Kazan Cathedral 216 cruise companies 28 Strasbourg 56-7 Kölner Dom 38-9 culture 278-9 European Union 278-9 Liebfrauenbasilika 174 currency 16, 304 Eurovision 279 Liebfrauenkirche (Koblenz) 48 cycling events, see festivals & events Münster (Basel) 64 Belgrade 111 Peterskirche 76 Bernkastel-Keus 177 Schlosskirche 155 Cologne 45, 47 F Sé 184 Koblenz 49 family travel 32-3 St Basil’s Cathedral 209 Lutherstadt Wittenberg 165 festivals & events 20-2 St Gereon 43 Lyon 256, 257 films 23 St Isaac’s Cathedral 227 Nuremberg 95 food 19, 26-7, 297-300, see also individual destinations St Maria im Kapitol 43 Speyer 51 fortresses, see castles, palaces St Nicholas Church 156 Strasbourg 63 & fortresses St Sebalduskirche 78 Trier 175 Frankfurt am Main 15, 270-3, St Sophia’s Cathedral 238 Vienna 88 272 food 271 000 Map pages itineraries 266 INDEX F-M 313

shopping 271 Torre dos Clérigos 188 Luther, Martin 154-5 sights 270 historic sites, see historic Lutherstadt Wittenberg 164-5, tourist information 273 buildings & sites 165 tours 270-1 history 280-7 Lyon 15, 256-60, 258-9 transport 273 Hundred Years’ War 282-3 entertainment 257 Frauenkirche (Dresden) 152-3 Jewish history 285 food 252-3, 256-7 Reformation 283-4 itineraries 250 G Renaissance 283 sights 254-5, 256 The Franks 281-2 tourist information 257 galleries, see museums & galleries Thirty Years’ War 284 tours 256 gay travellers 304 World Wars 286 transport 257 H I M health 303-4 internet access 17, 304 Main 15, 18, 265-75, 267 Hermitage, see State Hermitage information 267 highlights 4-15 K transport 267 historic buildings & sites Koblenz 4, 11, 47-9 Mainz 15 Albrecht-Dürer-Haus 79 Kölner Dom 38-9 markets Altes Rathaus (Bamberg) 274 Kremlin 204-7, 206-7 Budapest 106 Altpörtel 50 Kunsthistorisches Museum Frankfurt am Main 271 Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor 217 Vienna 74-5 Kyiv 241 Bundesbank Bunker 179 Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra 234-5 Lyon 257 Grande Île 58 Kyiv 14, 238-44, 240 Odesa 244 Magazine 105 activities 241 Paris 137 Historisches Rathaus 41 drinking 242-3 Vienna 87 Hôtel des Invalides 131 entertainment 243 mobile phones 16, 305 Ivan the Great Bell Tower 205 food 241-2 monasteries, see also churches & cathedrals, convents Klein Venedig 274 itineraries 232 Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra 234 Lenin’s Mausoleum 209 nightlife 242-3 Mosteiro da Serra de Pilar 187 Livraria Lello 190 shopping 239 St Michael’s Golden-Domed Luthereiche 155 sights 238-41 Monastery 239 Lutherhaus 154 tourist information 243 money 16, 304 Maison Kammerzell 58 transport 243-4 monuments Marshal Tito’s Mausoleum 111 Arc de Triomphe 128 Moulin Blute Fin 126 L Tomb of the Unknown Soldier Mozarthaus Vienna 84 language 16, 308-9 218 Old Hall (Prague) 156-7 Le Havre 141 Moscow 13, 218-23, 220-1 Palais Rohan 58 Lenin’s Mausoleum 209 activities 219 Panthéon 129 lesbian travellers 304 drinking 223 Petite France 58 LGBT+ travellers 304 entertainment 223 Rathaus (Basel) 64 libraries food 222-3 Rotes Haus 174 Biblioteca Municipal Almeida itineraries 202 São Bento Train Station 190 Garrett 190 nightlife 223 St-Nikolaus-Hospital 177 Louvre 120-3, 122-3 314 M-N INDEX

Moscow continued Museum Prague Jewish Museum 157 shopping 219-22 (Belgrade) 104 Pushkin Flat-Museum 216 sights 218-19 Mittelrhein-Museum 48 Pushkin Museum of Fine tourist information 223 Mosel-Weinmuseum 172 Arts 218 transport 223 Mozarthaus Vienna 84 Rheinisches Moselle 11, 18, 167-79, 169 MUMOK 81 Landesmuseum 174 information 169 Musée d’Art Moderne et Römer Museum 76 transport 169 Contemporain 58-9 Römisch-Germanisches Museum 42 59 Musée de l’Œuvre Notre-Dame 58 Russian Museum 226 Musée du Louvre 120-3, 122-3 Musée de Montmartre 127 Schokoladenmuseum 45 museums & galleries Musée des Beaux-Arts Secession 84-5 Albertinum 163 (Rouen) 139 Serralves 190 Castle Museum 101 Musée d’Orsay 129, 131 Silberkammer 80 Centre Pompidou 128 Musée du Petit Palais 261 Sisi Museum 80 Domschatz 174 Musée Gallo-Romain 260 Spielzeugmuseum 174 Domschatzkammer 42 Musée Gallo-Romain de St Vitus Treasury 147 Fondation Beyeler 65 Fourvière 255 Städel Museum 270 Garage Museum of Musée Malraux 141 Contemporary Art 218 Stadtmuseum Fembohaus 79 Musée Marmottan Monet 128 Germanisches State Hermitage Museum Musée National Picasso 129 Nationalmuseum 79 210-15, 214-15 Musée Rodin 131 Historial Jeanne d’Arc 139 State Tretyakov Gallery Main Musées Gadagne 254 Branch 218 History of Odesa Jews Museum 244 Museu do Douro 198 Vitra Campus 65 Hôtel des Invalides 131 Museu Nacional Soares Wallraf-Richartz-Museum & dos Reis 190 Fondation Corboud 42 House of Terror 106 Museu Romântico 190 music 23 Hungarian Jewish Museum & Archives 106 Museum am Dom Trier 174 Hungarian National Museum für Angewandte N Kunst 43 Gallery 100 nightlife, see Kaiserliche Schatzkammer 80 Museum für Moderne individual destinations Kunst 270 Kölnisches Stadtmuseum 40 Northern Rhine 4, 18, 35-51, 37 Museum Jean Tinguely 64-5 Kremlin Armoury 204-5 information 37 Museum Judengasse 270 Kunsthistorisches Museum transport 37 Museum Karl-Marx-Haus 174 Vienna 74-5 Nuremberg 7, 78-9, 92-5, 94 Museum Ludwig 43 Le Petit Musée Fantastique drinking 95 Museum of Yugoslavia 111 de Guignol 255 food 93, 95 Museum Schnütgen 43-4 Leopold Museum 80 nightlife 95 MuseumsQuartier 80 Louvre 120-3, 122-3 shopping 93 National Museum of Lutherhaus 154 sights 92 Ukrainian History 239-40 Melanchthon Haus 164 tourist information 95 National Museum Militärhistorisches Museum tours 92 Dresden 163 (Prague) 156 transport 95 Nikola Tesla Museum 111 NS-Dokumentationszentrum 000 Map pages 43 INDEX O-S 315

routes 27 Ribeira 184-5 O solo travellers 28 Roman sites Odesa 14, 244-7, 246 sustainability 30 Kaiserthermen 171 Oktoberfest 22 transport 17 Konstantin Basilika 170-1 opening hours 17 travel seasons 16, 26 Porta Nigra 170 travel with children 32-3 Römerbrücke 171 P websites 25 Temple d’Auguste et de Livie palaces, see castles, palaces & politics 278-9 260 fortresses Porto 12, 190-8, 192-3 Thermen am Viehmarkt 171 Palais de l’Europe 57 courses 190-4 Trier 170-1 Paris 8, 128-38, 130, 132-3, 136 drinking & nightlife 196-7 Trier Amphitheatre 171 courses 131 entertainment 197 Rouen 8, 138-41, 140 drinking 136-7 food 195-6 Royal Palace (Budapest) 100-1 entertainment 137 itineraries 182 ruins, see archaeological sites food 134-6 shopping 194-5 & ruins itineraries 116 sights 190 nightlife 136-7 tourist information 197 shopping 134 S tours 190-4 safety 305 sights 128-31 transport 197-8 Schloss Schönbrunn 72-3 tours 131-4 walks 188-9, 188-9 Seine 8, 19, 115-41, 117 walks 126-7, 126-7 port wine 196 information 117 parks & gardens Potemkin Steps 244 transport 117 Gorky Park 218 Prague 10, 156-61, 158-9 Southern Rhine 6, 19, 53-67, 55 Jardim do Morro 187 drinking & nightlife 161 information 55 Jardin des Tuileries 138 food 160-1 transport 55 Jardin du Luxembourg 138 itineraries 144 spas, see thermal baths & spas Jardin du Palais Royal 138 shopping 160 Speyer 49-51 Jardins do Palácio sights 146-51, 156-7 drinking 51 de Cristal 190 tourist information 161 food 51 Mikhailovsky Garden 226 tours 157, 160 nightlife 51 Parc Monceau 138 transport 161 sights 50-1 Royal Garden 147 walks 150-1, 150-1 tourist information 51 Parlement Européen 56 Prague Castle 146-9 transport 51 Passau 88-90 public art squares Peso da Régua 198-9 Le Mur des je t’aime 127 Hauptmarkt 174 Peterhof 227 Heiligenkreuzerhof 77 Pinhão 199 Maidan Nezalezhnosti 238-9 planning R Red Square 208 Marktplatz (Basel) 64 budget 24-5 refugees 279 Marktplatz (Bernkastel) 177 calendar of events 20-2 refunds 304 Old (Prague) 156 climate 16 Regensburg 90-2, 91 Palace Square 223 cruise choice 24-9 resources 17 Place de la République 59 cruise companies 28 Rhône 15, 19, 249-63, 251 Place du Tertre 127 highlights 4-15 information 251 Praça da Ribeira 189 resources 17 transport 251 Red Square 208 316 S-W INDEX squares continued Mariinsky Theatre 229 visas 16, 303 Römerberg 270 Mikhailovsky Theatre 217 Volga 13, 19, 201-29, 203 Wenceslas Square 156 Taras Shevchenko National information 203 St Basil’s Cathedral 209 Opera Theatre 243 transport 203 St Petersburg 13, 223-9, 224-5 Théâtre Le Guignol activities 227-8 de Lyon 257 Théâtre National de W drinking 229 walking tours Strasbourg 59 entertainment 229 Basel 67 thermal baths & spas 102-3, food 228-9 219. 228 Belgrade 111 nightlife 229 time 17, 306 Cologne 40-1, 40-1 shopping 228 tipping 305 Koblenz 48 sights 223-7 toilets 306 Lyon 256 tourist information 229 transport 17, 306-7, see also Nuremberg 92 transport 229 individual destinations Paris 126-7, 126-7 walks 216-17, 216-17 travel to/from Europe 306-7 Porto 188-9, 191, 188-9 State Hermitage Museum 210-15 travel within Europe 307 Prague 150-1, 150-1 Strasbourg 6, 56-7, 58-63, 60 travel with children 32-3 St Petersburg 216-17, 227, 216-17 activities 61 Trier 11, 174-5, 176 Trier 174 drinking 62-3 itineraries 168 Vienna 76-7, 85, 76-7 food 61-2 Trier Roman Monuments 170-1 Wenceslas Square 156 itineraries 54 Western Danube 7, 19, 69-95, 71 nightlife 62-3 V information 71 shopping 61 transport 71 vegetarian & vegan travellers sights 58-61 300 White Nights 22 tourist information 63 Vienna 7, 80-8, 76-7, 82-3 wi-fi 17 transport 63 drinking 87 wine 263, 298-9, 172-3, see also sustainability 30, 31 wineries entertainment 87-8 synagogues wineries food 85, 86-7 Great Synagogue Cave des Hospices de itineraries 70 (Budapest) 106 Strasbourg 61 nightlife 87 Judenhof 51 Mosel Vinothek 172 shopping 86 Prague 157 Mosel-Weinmuseum 172 sights 80-5 Pinhão 199 tourist information 88 Weingut Dr Pauly-Bergweiler 173 T tours 85-6 taxes 304 Weinstube Spitzhäuschen 173 transport 88 telephones 305 Wittenberg 10, 154-5 walks 76-7, 76-7 theatres Würzburg 273-4 Vienne 260 Bolshoi Theatre 223 Würzburg Residenz 268-9 Vieux Lyon 254-5 Burgtheater 81 WWI 286 viewpoints Hungarian State Opera WWII 163, 286 Barrage Vauban 59 House 106 Vila Nova de Gaia 186-7

000 Map pages 319 Symbols & Map Key

Look for these symbols to quickly Find your best experiences with these identify listings: Great For... icons.

1 5 Sights Eating h Art & Culture v History 2 Activities 6 Drinking C Courses 3 Entertainment p Beaches r Local Life T Tours 7 Shopping a Budget fNature & z 8 Festivals Information Wildlife & Events & Transport s Cafe/Coffee A Photo Op These symbols and abbreviations give m Cycling vital information for each listing: g Scenery Sustainable or green recommendation xDetour No payment required z Shopping u Drinking % Telephone g Bus number f Ferry n Short Trip h d Entertainment Opening hours j Tram p Parking d Train Events l Sport n q Nonsmoking E English- a Air-conditioning language menu b Family Travel Walking i Internet access v Vegetarian c W Wi-fi access selection c k Food & Drink s Swimming pool Family-friendly o Winter Travel

Sights Points of Interest Information Transport Beach Bodysurfing Bank Airport Bird Sanctuary Camping Embassy/Consulate BART station Buddhist Cafe Hospital/Medical Border crossing Castle/Palace Canoeing/Kayaking Internet T station Christian Course/Tour Police Bus Confucian Diving Post Office Cable car/Funicular Hindu Drinking & Nightlife Telephone Cycling Islamic Eating Toilet Ferry Jain Entertainment Tourist Information Metro/MRT station Jewish Sento Hot Baths/ Other Information Monorail Onsen Parking Museum/Gallery/ Shopping Geographic Petrol station Historic Building Skiing Beach Subway/S-Bahn/ Ruin Sleeping Gate Skytrain station Shinto Snorkelling Hut/Shelter Taxi Sikh Surfing Lighthouse Train station/Railway Taoist Swimming/Pool Lookout Tram Winery/Vineyard Walking Mountain/Volcano Underground/ Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Windsurfing Oasis U-Bahn station Other Sight Other Activity Park Other Transport Pass Picnic Area Waterfall 320

Simon Richmond Regis St Louis Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has Regis grew up in a small town in the American specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s Midwest – the kind of place that fuels big dreams and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their of travel – and he developed an early fascination Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped count- with foreign dialects and world cultures. He spent ing the number of guidebooks he’s researched and his formative years learning Russian and a handful written for the company, but countries covered of Romance languages, which served him well include Australia, China, Greece, India, Indonesia, on journeys across much of the globe. Regis has Iran, Poland, Japan, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar contributed to more than 50 Lonely Planet titles, (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa, South covering destinations across six continents. His Korea, Turkey and the USA. For Lonely Planet’s travels have taken him from the mountains of website he’s penned features on topics from the Kamchatka to remote island villages in Melanesia, world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban and to many grand urban landscapes. When not Sketching – follow him on Instagram (simonrich on the road, he lives in New Orleans. Follow him on mond) to see some of his photos and sketches. Instagram @regisstlouis. Brendan Sainsbury Benedict Walker Born and raised in the UK in a town that never A beach baby from Newcastle, Australia, Ben merits a mention in any guidebook (Andover, turned 40 in 2017 and decided to start a new life in Hampshire), Brendan spent the holidays of his Leipzig, Germany. Writing for LP was a childhood youth caravanning in the English Lake District dream, and he has since covered big chunks of and didn’t leave Blighty until he was 19. Making Australia, Canada, Germany, Japan, USA, Switzer- up for lost time, he’s since squeezed 70 countries land, Sweden and Japan for Lonely Planet guides. into a sometimes precarious existence as a writer Come along for the ride, on Instagram and professional vagabond. When not scribbling @wordsandjourneys. research notes, Brendan likes partaking in ridiculous ‘endurance’ races, strumming old Clash Nicola Williams songs on the guitar, and experiencing the pain and Border-hopping is way of life for British writer, occasional pleasures of following Southampton runner, foodie, art aficionado and mum-of-three Football Club. Nicola Williams who has lived in a French village on the southern side of Lake Geneva for more than a Andrea Schulte-Peevers decade. Nicola has authored more than 50 guide- Born and raised in Germany and educated in books on Paris, Provence, , Tuscany, France, London and at UCLA, Andrea has travelled the Italy and Switzerland for Lonely Planet and covers distance to the moon and back in her visits to France as a destination expert for the Telegraph. some 75 countries. She has earned her living as She also writes for the Independent, Guardian, a professional travel writer for over two decades lonelyplanet.com, Lonely Planet Magazine, French and authored or contributed to nearly 100 Lonely Magazine, Cool Camping France and others. Catch Planet titles as well as to newspapers, magazines her on the road on Twitter and Instagram at and websites around the world. She also works as @tripalong. a travel consultant, translator and editor. Andrea’s destination expertise is especially strong when it comes to Germany, Dubai and the UAE, Crete and the Caribbean Islands. She makes her home in Berlin. 321

Kerry Christiani Damian Harper Kerry is an award-winning travel writer, photogra- Damian has been writing for Lonely Planet for pher and Lonely Planet author, specialising in over two decades, contributing to titles as diverse Central and Southern Europe. Based in Wales, as China, Beijing, , Vietnam, Thailand, she has authored/co-authored more than a dozen Ireland, London, Mallorca, Malaysia, Singapore & Lonely Planet titles. An adventure addict, she loves Brunei, Hong Kong, China’s Southwest and the UK. mountains, cold places and true wilderness. She A seasoned guidebook writer, Damian has penned features her latest work at https://its-a-small- articles for numerous newspapers and magazines, world.com and tweets @kerrychristiani. including The Guardian and The Daily Telegraph, and currently makes Surrey, England, his home. Gregor Clark Follow Damian on Instagram (@damian.harper). Gregor Clark is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s Catherine Le Nevez around the next bend have taken him to dozens of Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she countries on five continents. Since 2000, Gregor roadtripped across Europe from her Parisian base has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every with a focus on Europe and the Americas. Titles opportunity since, travelling to some 60 countries include Italy, France, Brazil, Costa Rica, Argentina, and completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Portugal, Switzerland, Mexico, South America Writing, Masters in Professional Writing, and post- on a Shoestring, & Quebec City, France grad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along Trips, New England Trips, cycling guides to Italy the way. Over the past decade-and-a-half she’s and California and coffee-table pictorials such as written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles Food Trails, The USA Book and The LP Guide to the covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond. Middle of Nowhere. Topping Catherine’s list of travel tips is to travel without any expectations. Marc Di Duca A travel author for over a decade, Marc has worked Leonid Ragozin for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, Leonid Ragozin studied beach dynamics at the England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Moscow State University, but for want of decent Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well beaches in Russia, he switched to journalism and as writing and updating tens of other guides for spent 12 years voyaging through different parts other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives of the BBC, with a break for a four-year stint as a near Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with foreign correspondent for the Russian Newsweek. his wife and two sons. Leonid is currently a freelance journalist focusing largely on the conflict between Russia and Ukraine Steve Fallon (both his Lonely Planet destinations), which A native of Boston, Massachusetts, Steve gradu- prompted him to leave Moscow and find a new ated from Georgetown University with a Bachelor home in Rīga. of Science in modern languages. After working for several years for a daily US newspaper and Kevin Raub earning a master’s degree in journalism, he landed Atlanta native Kevin Raub started his career as a up in Hong Kong, where he lived for over a dozen music journalist in New York, working for Men’s years, working for a variety of media and running Journal and Rolling Stone magazines. He ditched his own travel bookshop. Steve lived in Budapest the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle for travel writing and has for three years before moving to London in 1994. written more than 70 Lonely Planet guides, focused He has written or contributed to more than 100 mainly on Brazil, Chile, Colombia, USA, India, the Lonely Planet titles. Steve is a qualified London Caribbean and Portugal. Raub also contributes to a Blue Badge Tourist Guide. Visit his website on www. variety of travel magazines in both the USA and UK. steveslondon.com. Along the way, the self-confessed hophead is in constant search of wildly high IBUs in local beers. Follow him on Twitter and Instagram (@RaubOnTheRoad). 322

Our Story A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. With- in a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. Our Writers Andy Symington Andy has written or worked on more than a hundred books and other updates for Lonely Planet (especially in Europe and Latin America) and other publishing companies, and has published articles on numerous subjects for a variety of newspapers, magazines and websites. He part-owns and operates a rock bar, has written a novel and is currently working on several fiction and non-fiction writing projects. Andy, from Australia, moved to Northern Spain many years ago. When he’s not off with a backpack in some far-flung corner of the world, he can probably be found watching the tragically poor local football team or tasting local wines after a long walk in the nearby mountains.

Mark Baker Oliver Berry Mark Baker is a freelance travel writer with Oliver Berry is a writer and photographer from a penchant for offbeat stories and forgotten Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for places. He’s originally from the United States, more than a decade, covering destinations from but now makes his home in the Czech capital, Cornwall to the Cook Islands, and has worked on Prague. He writes mainly on Eastern and Central more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular Europe for Lonely Planet as well as other leading contributor to many newspapers and magazines, travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in including Lonely Planet Traveller. His writing has digging up stories in places that are too remote won several awards, including The Guardian or quirky for the guides. Prior to becoming an Young Travel Writer of the Year and the TNT author, he worked as a journalist for The Econo- Magazine People’s Choice Award. His latest work mist, Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, is published at www.oliverberry.com. among other organisations. Instagram & Twitter: @markbakerprague. More Writers STAY IN TOUCH LONELYPLANET.COM/CONTACT AUSTRALIA The Malt IRELAND Digital Depot, USA 124 Linden , UK 240 Blackfriars Road, Store, Level 3, 551 Swanston Roe Lane (off Thomas St), Oakland, CA 94607 London SE1 8NW St, Carlton, Victoria 3053 Digital Hub, Dublin 8, D08 % 510 250 6400, % 020 3771 5100, %03 8379 8000, TCV4, Ireland toll free 800 275 8555, fax 020 3771 5101 fax 03 8379 8111 fax 510 893 8572

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