Fashion Revue All Categories
Contest Study Guide FASHION REVUE ALL CATEGORIES
Louisiana 4-H University 2021 Edition
The LSU AgCenter and the LSU provide equal opportunities in programs and employment. Getting Ready for 2021 4-H U Fashion Revue!
Let me help you get ready for 4-H U Fashion Review!
If you have ANY questions or need ANYTHING… let me know, I want to help you help you and your 4-Her … [email protected].
Three Fashion contests available to enter this year (9 total entries with 3 contestants for each contest) . Ready to Wear (non-sewing) . It’s SEW You! (sewing) . Upscaled Fashion: A Recycling Project (Sew/No Sew) Study guides and contest packets contain information needed to participate and compete well in all Fashion Review contests. 2. Laundry Essentials Care label talk 3. Laundry Guide to common symbols 4. Garment Analysis: Questions to ask before buying clothes 5. Sewing tips: recognizing quality standards for sewn garments o Read, alter if needed for fit, follow pattern directions, press, clip, rip, clean finish and under-stich where needed. Not all patterns have directions for quality standard techniques. 6. Modeling tips for photos: for Appearance Judging and 4-H U Fashion Show. 7. Ready to Wear Study Guide 8. Upcycled fashion study guide: Recycling information 9. 4-H U Fashion contests training ppt 10. Quality construction photos samples training ppt 11. Script Writing a fashion show narrative 12. Carbon Fiber 13. Textile Science Chart: understanding properties of fibers, fabrics and care. 14. Fibers, Weaves, Fabrics and Perspiration 15. Quality Analysis Worksheet at home practice
4-H U Fashion Revue Contest consists of: Submission of contest packet, video, and photos online by deadline. Don’t wait until the last day. Let me know if you have questions or challenges. [email protected]
This Educational Program is one in which everyone would benefit from participation at any age! The life skills learned through the 4-H Fashion Program last a lifetime. Encourage everyone to join us! FOR APPAREL / TEXTILE Sponsored by CARELABELTALKALERT!ALERT! INDUSTRY PROFESSIONALS Textile Industry Affairs Laundry Essentials The first step is sorting it out. In the “good old days” Proper laundry sorting is important to prevent laundry problems like dye transfer laundry was done with from one garment to another, shrinking soaps, scrub boards, clothes and unsightly lint accumulations wash tubs and lots of over the rest of the wash. Follow care labels, if there is any doubt about proper elbow grease. care. Sort laundry loads according to: Today’s advanced washing machines, Color Whites and pastels together hi-tech detergents and Same color brights laundry additives make Dark colors wash days easier and Note: Multicolored items with lots of more successful, white background are best washed sepa- rately first. If colors don’t bleed or run, especially with the then they can be washed with other items array of fabrics used in in the future. contemporary clothing. Zip, check, shake and mend... The laundry basics, Fabric and Construction Separate delicate or lightweight to take a load off your mind however, haven’t fabrics from heavier items Taking an extra minute to check changed and are more Separate lint givers (terrycloth) from clothing prior to washing can save serious problems later. Pockets with crayons, important than ever. lint catchers (corduroy) tissues, lipstick or other surprises can Loosely knit sweaters, lingerie or Here is a quick leave laundry streaked with shredded items with delicate trim require gentle tissues or a rainbow of stains. refresher to help get care and need to be separated from heav- Before washing: sparkling- clean results, ier items like jeans. Different fabrics need different laundry care- be sure to read and Empty pockets washload after follow the care label directions. Shake out loose dirt from cuffs washload. Close zippers and other fasteners to Degree of Soil prevent snagging and fabric tearing Heavily soiled work or play clothes Mend rips or tears before laundering, should be washed separately from to prevent further damage lightly soiled laundry Tie strings and sashes loosely to avoid Wash diapers and soiled bed linens tangling separately to avoid contaminating Remove belts, pins, trim or ornaments other clothes. that are not washable
©2005 Textile Industry Affairs CARELABELTALK
It pays to do the bleach-safe test when Laundry Products you think a garment should be bleachable. Successful laundry results start with Clorox laundry studies confirm that about the right laundry products. Here’s a 52 percent of all washables are actually checklist of laundry essentials: safe with household liquid bleach. Other laundry studies show how liquid Detergents: bleach is safe for fabrics, when used as If you think a Detergents work to effectively remove directed. This bleach does not wear down care label is soil and prevent lint and soil from fabrics any more than detergent alone, redepositing on clothes. washload after washload. inaccurate and Follow directions for the Color-Safe Bleach is, quite simply, a an item should be proper amount and bleach that is safe to use on washable, measure, don’t colored clothes. These bleaches, bleachable, guess. Extra available in powder and liquids, here’s how to test detergent is needed remove stains and help keep colors for large loads, the fabric: bright. The powdered bleaches also extremely dirty clothes, or have enzymes to break up tough hard water. Likewise less protein stains, which is why detergent is required they make an excellent presoak. for small loads, lightly A color-safe bleach is not a diluted soiled clothes, or soft water. bleach. The gentle bleaching action in More laundry problems are usually liquids is from hydrogen peroxide. Powders caused from using too little detergent commonly use sodium perborate. rather than using too much. These color-safe bleaches also have Granular detergents are recommended optical brighteners. This ingredient is like BLEACH-SAFE TEST for hard water conditions and when an invisible layer on fabrics. It reflects loads contain mud or clay soil. light, making colors appear brighter and Mix 1 tablespoon Liquid detergents are especially good whites whiter. household liquid for cold water washing and for cleaning bleach with greasy, oily stains. 1/4 cup water. Detergent with bleach combines Dab 1 drop of this color-safe bleach with either granular solution on a or liquid detergent. hidden part of a fabric such as an Detergent with fabric softener both inside seam, cleans and softens laundry. hemline or cuff. Be sure to test all Bleach: colors and any You can keep washables whiter and decorative trim or brighter longer when bleach is used in RECOMMENDED LIQUID BLEACH ribbing. every washload. Choosing the right AMOUNTS PER WASHLOAD Wait 1 minute, bleach is easy: Extra large 1 1/2 cups then blot dry with Household liquid bleach, identified by Standard large 1 cup the words “sodium hypochlorite” in the paper towel. If Medium 3/4 cup there is no change, ingredient listing is the only bleach Small 1/2 cup the fabric can be that disinfects. It is also the most effec- safely washed with tive bleach for stain removal and Handwashing (2 gallon sudsy water) 1/8 cup household liquid whitening. This is the bleach of choice Note: When machine washing heavily soiled clothes, bleach. for whites and colorfast garments. add 1/4 cup more bleach to above amounts. 2 Adding bleach to your washer Many washing machines today are Water-levels, equipped with convenient automatic bleach temperature & softness dispensers for household liquid bleach. If a Water washer is not equipped with a liquid bleach make the difference temperatures dispenser follow either of these two methods: Water plays a major role in how clean the laundry is... hardness or softness, level below 65F won’t 1. For maximum cleaning results... and temperature all affect the laundry activate some Add detergent as washer fills, then add process. Soft water aids in the cleaning clothes. process, while hard water can create some laundry additives After machine has agitated for 5 minutes, problems. If water is hard, add a water and may cause softener or more detergent than the product add household liquid bleach that has lint, residue, and been diluted in 1 quart of label recommends. Both help to soften the water. Avoid pouring water and increase the cleaning poor cleaning. power of detergent. mixture directly onto Detergent clothes. Choosing the proper water Note: Always use this level and temperature is vital for manufacturers method when best cleaning. Laundry must using detergent and care labels have ample room to circulate, with bleach define cold water products. clean and rinse properly or the dirt will end up back on the as 65- 85F. 2. Convenient and clothes. Use a hot water wash effective... for most white fabrics and heavily While the machine fills with water, pour soiled colored fabrics. Warm water is in liquid bleach and detergent. recommended for very lightly soiled or brightly colored garments, and most other HERE ARE SOME Once agitation begins, add clothes. laundering needs. SUGGESTIONS TO With increased concern for energy MAXIMIZE CLEANING Prewash Soil and conversation, many consumers are lowering EFFICIENCY Stain Removers: hot water heater thermostats as well as washing in cooler water. While this saves Presoak and These products are formulated to help energy, laundry results are not always pretreat stains get clothes stain free. Their special satisfactory. For effective cleaning, hot water detergents and enzymes penetrate stains Use appropriate heaters should be set no lower than 120F, and break them up, helping detergents work bleach. but hotter water up to 140F gives better more effectively to wash stains away. cleaning results. Increase the amount of detergent Fabric Softeners: Drying Time and extend wash time, if possible. Fabric Softeners help reduce static Before putting garments into the dryer, cling, minimize wrinkling and soften clothes. shake them out so they are loose, not Don’t overload the Rinse-added softeners are added to the bunched up. This will allow quicker drying. washer. final rinse cycle. These can be added auto- Always check that stains are removed before matically in washers equipped with a fabric drying. Heat can permanently set some stains softener dispenser. Otherwise, diluted making them impossible to remove. Avoid softener must be added manually to the final overdrying, which can cause shrinking and rinse. Dryer sheets are convenient to use wrinkling. Remove clothes from the dryer as with one sheet added to the dryer along with soon as it shuts off. For maximum drying effi- the clothes. ciency, clean the lint filter after each load.
3 LAUNDRY CHALLENGES EVERYWHERE! Household liquid bleach can make a difference in tackling both common and special laundry problems, as well as eliminating bacteria and germs for a safer, cleaner and healthier wash.
COMMON KIDS’ STAINS Blood Rinse in cool water and pretreat with soil and stain remover. Rinse and repeat until stain is gone. Launder in cold water, using appropriate bleach.
Grass Pretreat stains with soil and stain remover, allow to sit for 5 minutes. Launder in hottest water safe for fabric, using appropriate bleach.
Mud Allow to dry, then brush off excess mud, Pretreat stain, allow to sit for 5 minutes. launder in hottest water safe for fabric, using appropriate bleach.
Crayon To remove crayola stains, the Crayola Company recommends: Place the stained surface down on a pad of paper towels, spray CLEANING M with WD-40, and let stand for a few minutes. Turn the fabric over ELTED and spray the other side. Apply liquid dishwashing detergent and CRAYON OFF THE work it into the stained area. Replace towels as they absorb the DRYER DRUM stain. Wash in hot water with laundry detergent and bleach for Spray a soft cloth about 12 minutes (use “heavy soiled” setting if there is no STAIN minute timer on your machine), and rinse in warm water. with WD-40 and wipe REMOVAL the drum. Run a load Fingerpaints, ballpoint ink & felt tip markers of dry rags through a TIPS Pretreat stains and launder in hottest water safe for the fabric, drying cycle to Treat stains early. using appropriate bleach. Permanent markers may be ensure that your Fresh stains are impossible to remove. easier to remove drum is clean. Baby Formula than old ones. Soak in cool water using a presoak product. Launder in hottest Rub stain remover water safe for fabric, using appropriate bleach gently onto garment Diaper stains, vomit and wash in hottest Rinse off soils. Follow presoak instructions (see sidebar). Launder in water safe for hottest water safe for fabric with appropriate bleach, To kill bacteria fabric. that contribute to diaper rash, add liquid bleach to the wash cycle. Check that stains Vitamins, liquid pain relievers are gone before Pretreat and let sit for 5 minutes. Launder in hottest water possible, using appropriate bleach. machine drying or ironing. Heat can set some stains FOOD STAINS permanently. Beverages Sponge promptly with cold water or soak in cold water. PRESOAK Pretreat and launder in hottest water safe for fabric, PROCEDURE If stain remains, using appropriate bleach. Use 1/4 cup household liquid pretreat and wash again. Egg, milk & milk products bleach per gallon of water. Rinse in cool water and pretreat. Rinse and repeat, if Submerge entire garment and Some stains, necessary. launder in cold water, using appropriate including inks, bleach. soak for 5 minutes. dyes, and rust may be permanent. Chocolate, fruit flavored drinks, gravy, juices, tomato products Rinse and wash according to Soak in cool water. Pretreat, wait a few minutes, then care label. wash in hottest water possible safe for the fabric, using appropriate bleach. POWDERED COLOR-SAFE BLEACH PRESOAK Mayonnaise, mustard, salad dressing Pretreat, launder in hottest water safe for fabric, Use 1 cup dry bleach per using appropriate bleach. gallon of water. Soak 30 minutes or overnight. COMMON STAINS Note: When using any bleach as a presoak, be Oil & grease, perspiration & deodorant sure to soak the entire garment as well as Pretreat and launder in hottest water safe for fabric, other sections worn together for best results. using appropriate bleach. 4 CARELABELTALK Special Concerns S.O.S. ( Save Our Stuff! ) Where there’s smoke, there’s a Kitchen cleaning challenge Dish towels, cloths, and sponges really The removal of smoke odor from clothes get around the kitchen, and are a breeding following a fire is a challenging task. ground for germs. Sulfuric acid, carbon, and other components In a recent study of kitchen bacterial of smoke become trapped between fabric contamination, 20 percent of the dish fibers and must be eliminated. The greater cloths and 12 percent of the sponges the severity of the smoke damage, the more contained salmonella, a leading cause of difficult to restore. food-borne illness in the United States.1 Separate washable items from those Since food-borne bacteria can double in that must be dry cleaned. Separate heavily number every 20 minutes in some conditions, smoke damaged items from those less it’s important to wash towels and sponges severe. Dry cleaning, frequently suggested often in hot water and liquid bleach. A by many insurance companies, is not always convenient way to disinfect dish cloths and effective in removing stains and odors. sponges in-between washings, is to soak for A recent study on smoke damage and 5 minutes in a solution of: fabrics representing the majority of today’s 3/4 cup household liquid bleach apparel fabrics demonstrated the effective- ness of home laundering. The study showed 1 gallon warm water that five launderings with detergent in Ideally, kitchen surfaces should be combination with liquid bleach successfully disinfected daily. removed visible smoke damage and odors. Useful smoke damage tips Disinfect laundry for a These procedures are useful in handling healthier home smoke damage of textiles: Liquid bleach has a long history of use Washable textiles with mild smoke damage in places where disinfection is critical such should be hung outside, at least 3 inches apart. as in hospitals, nursing homes and To allow for greater air circulation, do not close restaurants. fasteners such as zippers or buttons. Fresh air, At home, regular laundering with liquid particularly with at least a light breeze and bleach may help reduce the spread of sunlight are natural partners in helping to disease-causing bacteria and viruses. Liquid remove smoke odor from clothing. An electric bleach eliminates disease-causing fan can be used to supplement the air flow organisms and provides a safer, healthier through the clothes. Clothing should be left outside four to eight hours, with repeated airings home environment. This is especially if smoke odor is still strong. important when laundering soiled bedding, clothing and diapers from Wash items in the hottest water possible safe those incontinent. Using for the fabric with liquid household bleach (sodium hypochlorite), if not suitable with liquid liquid bleach for cleaning, household bleach then use a color-safe bleach. disinfecting and removing stains is important for a Check items for odor. Usually several washings are needed to fully remove odor. Once odor is greater sense of comfort as eliminated, line dry in the sunlight. Do well as cleanliness. not dry in the dryer because heat will set any lingering odor.
1 Study by Dr. Charles P. Gerba, Note: For severely smoke-damaged textiles, environmental microbiologist at consult the services of a professional drycleaner University of Arizona in Tucson that specializes in fire restoration. If damage is 5 severe, they may not be salvageable. NEW CARE LABEL SYMBOLS
Reading labels is an important When care element to insure an effective wash. By symbols are used, law, manufacturers must place labels on laundering garments, specifying at least one safe instructions will cleaning method. Beginning July 1, include, in order, 1997, manufacturers may voluntarily, four symbols – use labels with care symbols instead of washing, bleaching, written instructions. These symbols will drying and ironing. become standard in all countries Drycleaning instruc- participating in the North American tions will use one symbol, a Free Trade Agreement. circle. Additional symbols or words
Here is a sampling of the new care symbols for washing, bleaching, drying, and ironing.
Are the new dots confusing? It’s actually easy to remember... the more dots, the higher the temperature PROBLEM LAUNDRY SOLVER
What’s the best way to treat How can I eliminate dinginess unknown stains? and poor cleaning? Soak the item in cold water for Overall dinginess and inadequate 20 minutes, pretreat and launder with a cleaning can result from a number of generous amount of detergent and the factors. Cleaning results can be hottest water possible for the fabric. improved by: If item is bleach-safe and you know the Proper sorting; pretreating spots, stain is not rust, use liquid bleach. stains and heavily soiled garments Air dry item until the stain is removed. Using enough detergent Machine drying can set the stain and make further removal almost Using hot enough water suitable for impossible. the fabric Using the proper water setting on the washer What can be done to prevent dye transfer or bleeding from Loading the washer loosely fabric dyes and what are the Using bleach to improve procedures to follow if stain removal and overall discoloration has occurred? cleaning results. Color bleeding occurs when unstable dyes are used and bleed from one garment to another. Some of the newer garments are overdyed to produce very bright, rich colors resulting in dye removal and/or transfer when laundered. Sorting brightly colored garments, washing separately and avoiding prolonged contact of damp items before and after laundering helps to minimize this damage. If dye transfer has occurred, pretreat and relaunder in warm water. As a last resort, for whites only, use a commercial color remover, following package directions. CARELABELTALKALERT!
Mildew on clothing If Mildew is not severe, pretreat the stains items. Sort soiled garments as soon as possible, and launder in the hottest water recommended separating washable items from those requiring for the item along with liquid bleach, if appro- drycleaning. priate for fabric. For more extensive cases, For washable items, rinse several times in presoak bleach-safe fabrics in a cold water, soaking heavily soiled items over- solution of 1/4 cup liquid bleach night. Presoak heavily soiled items in powdered per gallon of warm water. color-safe bleach, following package directions. Household items and Machine wash using 1-1/2 times the amount of clothes soaked during detergent recommended along with bleach in flooding require disinfecting. Always the hottest water possible for the fabric. wear rubber or plastic gloves For drycleanables, consult a professional when handling flood-soaked drycleaner.
For free care label assistance contact: TEXTILE INDUSTRY AFFAIRS Email: [email protected] • Internet: www.TextileAffairs.com
© 2005. Textile Industry Affairs
Quality Analysis Paying a high price for clothes does not guarantee quality. Learn the ways to spot “well-made” clothes.
Know what to look for in clothing before buying. Learn what questions to ask before you buy, how to evaluate a garment’s fabric and workmanship, and what high-quality seams, hems and buttonholes look like. Take the time to evaluate the clothing you buy. This life skill will save you money, protect your investment, help you make wise consumer decisions, and reduce the stress of deciding “what to wear”!
1. Does it fit in my wardrobe plan? Go through your closet. What’s your budget? a. Where will I wear it? b. What will I wear with it? What does it match in my closet? c. Is it comfortable? d. Do I like the fabric and color on me? e. Do I like how it fits right now? Understand “vanity sizing” in women’s clothing and how to buy the right size. f. Is it timeless? How classic is the style? Will I wear it next year?
2. Is it durable and well made? a. Check the seams, buttons, and construction quality. b. Know your fibers and fabric performance characteristics. i. Cotton is cool but wrinkles ii. Polyester pills but a little polyester makes cotton wrinkle less. iii. Rayon blends require more maintenance to keep looking new.
3. What’s on the labels? Learn what care labels can tell you about the fabrics and fibers from which they are made. a. Fiber content and fabric. Invest in higher-quality materials. b. Care instructions. c. In what country was it made?
4. Is the price reasonable? a. Can I afford it? Is this an investment? b. Is it a fad? Trendy? c. How many times will I wear this? Understand “cost per wearing”.
Be smart, be a “savvy” shopper and shop wisely.
“Too many people spend money they haven’t earned, to buy things they don’t want, to impress people they don’t like.” —Will Rogers Sewing Tips Contributed by leaders who have worked at evaluating garments.
• Preshrink everything, including zippers and seam tape.
• Be sure the pressure foot of the machine and the thread tension are adjusted properly so that the stitching is even and neither too tight nor loose.
• Learn to press correctly. Press each section and seam as garment is put together.
• Darts should be tapered and stitches anchored in some manner so that cloth will not dimple or become unstitched.
• Most seams need some type of finishing, which varies with the kind of material. Double knits do not need any seam finish. Single knits should be sewn according to pattern directions, and require no seam finish.
• The teeth of a zipper should not show regardless of the method chosen (single or double lap) for insertion.
• Arm hole should be double stitched and clipped and trimmed.
• Collar facings should be clipped and under-stitched to prevent rolling.
• Facings should be tacked at seams only.
• Buttons should be sewn on with a shank, not flat to the cloth.
• The width of a hem depends on the style of the skirt. An a-line skirt requires a narrower hem than a straight one, and a circular skirt the narrowest of all.
• Never use a double thread for hemming. A double thread may be used to sew on hooks and eyes and snaps.
• Hemming stitches should show as little as possible, or ideally, not at all on the right side of material.
• Pant legs and fronts of jackets should match in length. If material is a plaid, the plaid also should match.
• Garments should be tried on and fitted during construction. Don’t wait until Evaluation Day.
• Bring your garments in clean and well pressed.
October 8, 2012 Louisiana State 4-H Fashion Camp MODELING IS WHAT YOU MAKE IT! Modeling on the runway and Photo Shoot and Video Tips
What’s the first thing that pops into your head when you hear the word “model?” Most people have the same basic definition of that word: a tall, thin woman or muscular man who shows off the beauty of his/her clothing and self. But modeling is so much more than perfection. It is about self-respect and self-worth. You don’t have to show off the latest designer fashions to be a model, but simply show off what makes you feel beautiful or handsome. Of course, there are a few basic rules every runway model should know. These tips will help your best features shine. A few sample YouTube videos are also included at the end.
Tip #1: Smile! Keep your mouth natural Show your confidence by “blinding” the crowd with your best smile. No one expects you to have the same big smile from the beginning to the end of the runway and back. Smile naturally. Do not frown or look fierce like some runway models. They stay focused and look straight ahead. You want to look at your audience, your judges and smile. Have fun!
Tip #2: Strut Your Stuff! To “wow” the crowd, put a little swing in you step, and you can even add a little humor to your script. Learn to stand like a supermodel. Anytime you set foot on that runway, your whole body needs to be upright and alert. While walking, keep your chin tilted down slightly but not in a way that your whole head is looking down. The audience that sits below you during a runway show doesn’t want to look up your nose the entire time. Your arms should sway naturally as you walk but don't swing them too much. Keep your arms close to your body so that only your lower arms sway. Your hands and fingers should be relaxed. Practice your posture, throw your shoulders back. Your shoulders should always stay steady and shouldn't bounce or dip as you walk. If your dress or scarf flows, then twirl.
Tip #3: You worked hard on what you have sewn or put together! Make sure the crowd sees all of your wonderful creation by turning in all directions. Remove your jacket. If judges are present, pause to make sure they can completely judge the outfit front, sides and back.
Tip #4: The stage/area is there for you to use. Try this: center of stage, stage left, then stage right, and finally, walk towards the front of the stage for one last look. Practice to place the ball of the foot down first and keep all of your weight balanced there rather than on the heel as this gives you more of an elegant stride. Ladies, put one foot in front of the other (literally). Toes should face forward. Your footprints should form a single line. When done quickly, this gives the body that classic
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Louisiana State 4-H Fashion Camp runway swing. Guys, your feet should remain straight with your regular stride, not one in front of the other like the ladies. Your stride: Make your stride look a little longer, don't take baby steps. Remember in a fashion show, the walk is paced to the music, find that beat. It's all in the eyes: When you're on the runway, find a comfortable spot where you can look ahead. Make sure you don't look down at the floor! When you make your turn at the end, let your head be the last part of your body to move.
Don't forget to pause and pose: In addition to walking down the runway, there is also your time to shine when you reach the end of the catwalk and pose for photographers. For you to get great images for your photo collection or portfolio, you must pause and pose for a 3-5 second count in your head. When you reach the end of the runway, strike your first pose and do your 3-5 count...then perform your second pose and do another 3-5 count. No more, no less. This should be more than enough time for photographers to get a handful of decent images of you that are not of the back of your head. With time and practice, newer fashion models will learn how to master this part of the process.
Tip #5: Show the crowd who you really are! Add some of your own flare to our outfit by adding accessories. Possess confidence and attitude: There is no way you can fake this on the runway. When you have confidence and attitude, it comes out in your walk and makes you the center of attention.
Tip #6: Your script should tell the audience about you and why your outfit was meant for you. Don’t say “blue long-sleeve shirt”. The best way to create your own unique style is to experiment, practice, and get feedback. Always remember that you are perfect just the way you are! If you go out on the runway with that in mind, you are sure to have fun, and the crowd will enjoy the show, too! Have fun!
Want to be a model? There are different kinds of models such as child models, tall runway models seen in fashion shows, plus size models who are a size 10 and above and body parts models whose hands you might see in a diamond ring ad on a billboard. Always include your parents in your decision model. Teen Modeling Scams exist: Both parents and teens should be aware of scam artists parading around as modeling agents. Know the warning signs and do your research. Don’t be afraid to check up on their claims either. If they’re legitimate, they’ll have nothing to hide and will encourage you to do a little background investigating.
Modeling videos: How to walk like a model: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxULs-R7Jl4&ab_channel=TheAgencyArizona
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Louisiana State 4-H Fashion Camp Male Runway Walk poses and Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8sPzOVdPTs&ab_channel=NGMModeling Gigi Hadid Reveals the Secret to Her Runway Walk: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2sHiaMq5a1g&ab_channel=WMagazine 4 types of runway walk: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEDiLB3XVvk&ab_channel=FreshPepper Have fun, be yourself, be confident! All the world’s a stage and it’s yours!!!
Photo Shoot! Be comfortable and have fun! Be confident and be patient. You may not like your first photos, so practice. Digital camera options are great because you can click and delete until you have the photo you like.
Research other clothing model photos. Look for different poses, how to stand, place your arms, hands, head and practice in front of a mirror. https://expertphotography.com/10-composition-tips-for-better-fashion-photography/ https://expertphotography.com/model-poses-fashion-photography/ Posing tips for normal people (Photography poses): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWfc90vd1IE&ab_channel=JustinandKirby 6 tips for men’s streetwear fashion photography: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OutKund84XY&ab_channel=JulianLallo How to pose a male model for portrait or fashion photography: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3si_7yeLxlY&ab_channel=JulianLallo
CONTEST PHOTOS and VIDEO Required: Photos and video need not be professional. Judges want to see you and your outfit in the best possible way. Be sure they are in focus with enough lighting to show details. Photos required will be used for appearance judging and for construction judging. Appearance judging video and photos will be compiled with other contestants for our annual 4-H U Fashion Show. Additional photos submitted will be used for construction judging. See required list for each below. See scoresheet for evaluation notes and points awarded. Contestant’s pictures should reflect how they would present themselves and their garment for the day of competition. Photos will be judged on clarity of detail and background used. o Background should be free of clutter. Choose a location free of clutter. A blank white wall in a room with lots of natural light is best. If this studio- like blank wall may be difficult to find in your home, hang a white sheet from the and let it drape the end over the floor. Choose props carefully. o Open the curtains and let the natural light shine. If it’s too much light, create a softer look with sheer curtains. Lamps help focus the light where you need it. Point one toward the ceiling, one to light the background. Don’t use overhead ceiling lights, as they create shadows. Dress, poise and pose are important when modeling an outfit. o Contestant should be well-groomed and wearing all accessories desired (i.e.: all jewelry, shoes, belt, hat, bags, etc.). o Feel comfortable. Be balanced. Keep body straight, don’t slouch. Bend slightly at the knee while standing. Place your hands somewhere around the waist. Don’t clench your fists. Keep hands natural.
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Louisiana State 4-H Fashion Camp Cameras are important in photography, but you don’t need expensive equipment. Lighting, and post-processing create the image you would like to keep. Many of the latest cell phones have great cameras. Have fun, be creative. Additional photos may be submitted but are not judged or scored.
Photo List for the Appearance Judging and 4-H U Fashion Show. Four photos (#1, #2, #3, #4) detailed below will be needed to compile the 4-H U Virtual Fashion Show as well as Appearance judging. See scoresheet for evaluation notes and points awarded. Judges will use these four photos for appearance judging and may be used for construction judging. Photos required for Appearance Judging include: 1. Front View of contestant modeling garment with accessories. 2. Right Side View of contestant modeling garment with accessories. 3. Left Side View of contestant modeling garment with accessories 4. Back View of contestant modeling garment with accessories.
Video Required: The purpose of the video is for appearance judging. Many of the latest cell phones have great cameras. Video should not be longer than 45 seconds Video must be saved as a mp4 file type. Judges will be looking for your entire outfit including shoes and accessories. Walk forward, pause and pose, turn, and walk backward pause and pose. You may also choose to walk sideways. Smile and show your confidence. How to upload modeling video: Click on the outline box on the slide, a media file upload box will appear Find your video and upload into slide. Again, be sure it is saved as an mp4 file type. Fashion Photography as a Career Fashion Photographers are needed by magazines, catalogs, merchandising, designers, marketing agencies, online web designers and more. Companies who hire fashion photographers are interested in presenting their products to their clientele.
Photography classes and practice (lots of practice) will help hone your skills. Learn how to create the best setting, lighting, and background, pose the model or product, to create the look you want to present. You will also need a knowledge of photo editing. Keep your best photo compositions to create a portfolio to show potential clients.
Photographers need quick, problem solving skills, good communication and networking skills, an artistic eye, time management and organizational skills to meet deadlines. https://expertphotography.com/the-complete-guide-to-fashion-photography-tips/
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4-HU Ready-To-Wear Consumer Judging Description Study Guide
4-H Ready to Wear Contest Study Guide will help provide information for the wise consumer to recognize quality clothing. Quality clothing is known by the fibers, fabrics, design and construction techniques used to create the garment. The 4- H U Ready-To-Wear Contest consists of: 1. Putting together a 4-H U outfit for any occasion with photos 2. Selecting 3 additional outfits from your closet which contain pieces from the original 4-H U outfit 3. Completing a packet of information with photos on your 4-H U outfit and 3 additional outfits. 4. An exam testing your knowledge of garment construction, textile and consumer information as outlined below. In addition, the test will include consumer decision-making questions based on a hypothetical buying situation. A written situation will establish the basis for determining answers to test questions given. A link will be sent to the address provided at contest registration.
Test questions will be made based upon the following categories. Consumerism . Cost per wear . Garment Care . Appropriateness to Scenario . Budget . Labeling information: fiber content, care instructions, country of origin . Cost of garment: fits situation Garment Construction . Closures: buttons, zippers, buttonholes . Stitch length, even seams, straight . Matching patterns/pieces, parts of design . Extra Detailing . Areas of Weakness . Appropriate seam finish . Interfacing . Hems Textile Science . Fibers, fiber content, fiber properties, pros, cons, typical care . Fabric hand, type . Fabric Appropriateness . Fabric Performance/Characteristics . Fabric color combination/dye stability . Fiber, weave and fabric technological advances
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SAMPLE TEST Ready-to-Wear Consumer Judging Contest (Each year garment type changes) Directions: . Tests will be completed online. The link will be provided to those registered for the Ready to Wear Contest. Scores of tests will be combined with evaluation scores from packet completion and Appearance Judging.
======In the following section, questions 5-29 equal 50 points (2 points each). 5. A garment with French seams has better quality than a garment with pinked seam finishes. A. True B. False
6. The 100% polyester shirt would be cooler than the 100% cotton shirt. A. True B. False
7. All garments are made in foreign countries because garments are cheaper to produce. A. True B. False
8. The serged seam finish is appropriate on knit fabrics. A. True B. False
9. In tagless garments label information is silk-screened directly and are more durable than embroidered labels. A. True B. False
10. If cotton is mercerized, it will have a softer hand. A. True B. False
11. Reinforcement tape is used at back, neck and shoulders to keep the garment from stretching out of shape. A. True B. False
12. When compared, a garment with shank buttonholes has the better-quality workmanship. A. True B. False 13. A lined garment may be a sign of a higher quality garment than one without a lining. A. True B. False
14. A garment which have serged armholes and neckline indicates poor quality finishing when compared to a collared neckline or faced armholes. A. True B. False
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15. “Performance apparel” may have fabric that is light reflective, and the mesh inserts which increase air flow through the fabric. A. True B. False 17. The imprinted or screened vinyl designs will not present problems when ironing. A. True B. False 18. A flat-felled seam finish is one of the strongest seam finishes and indicates higher quality. A. True B. False 19. Care labels for all garments include instructions in English and Spanish as well as care symbols. A. True B. False
20. Because of fiber contest, a 100% polyester shirt is most likely to shrink. A. True B. False
21. Cool iron is specified for use on delicate fabrics because of the fiber content. A. True B. False
22. The quality of the 100% cotton fabric is based on fiber, yarn, and weave or knit of fabric. A. True B. False
23. Any garment that can be safely bleached with non-chlorine bleach if it is soiled during use. A. True B. False
24. Hem treatments for good quality garments will barely be seen on the outside of the garment. A. True B. False
25. Fleece pajama pants are a better choice during the summer months. A. True B. False
26. A tubular knit, requires no side seam lines are necessary and reduces manufacturing construction cost. A. True B. False
27. One should consider tax, care and cleaning costs when determining the true cost of a garment. A. True B. False
28. When a garment’s label says “satisfaction guaranteed”, the consumer can always expect a good quality product. A. True B. False
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29. a. True b. False 30. Fabrics most likely to shrink include: a. Polyester b. Cotton c. Acrylic d. Both B and C 31. Trade Laws changes have contributed to the availability of cheap “fast fashion” clothing. a. True b. False 32. A quality buttonhole shows little or no fabric beneath the stitching. a. True b. False 33. With a budget of $100, a Janie needs to shop for a casual event. She can purchase the following garments: a. Jeans = $56.00 b. Vest = $ 28.00 c. Shirt = $32.00 d. Both A and C e. All of the above 34. When purchasing a garment, one should consider the following: a. Frequency of cleaning the garment b. Recommended method of cleaning c. Cost of cleaning d. Both A and C e. All of the above.
35. Jim needs to purchase a winter sweater. It is a blend of cotton, polyester and silk. The cost is $50. Care is dry clean only which is $4.50 at the local dry cleaners. He plans to wear the sweater 20 times and will clean it every other wearing. He believes he will be able to wear this classic sweater for 5 years. What is the cost per wearing of Jim’s sweater? a. $5.00 b. $3.08 c. $2.50 d. $1.90 e. None of the above
Fashion Revue Cost Per Wearing Formula and Cleaning Costs
The care of a garment can be a costly addition to the true cost. Before a consumer buys a garment, he/she should estimate cost per wearing. To figure cost per wearing, a monetary value must be placed on care. Cost per wearing is the total cost of the garment plus the cost of cleaning, divided by the total number of wearings for the life of the garment. The 4-H’er needs to figure the number of wearings between cleanings, and then multiply that figure by the actual cost of washing or dry cleaning.
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Cost / wearing Formula:
[$______+ {$______x ______}] ÷ ______= $______Cost of garment Care Cost # Cleanings per year Total Wearings Cost per wearing
Care considerations include: 1) Frequency of cleaning based on: fabric/fiber (linen is cleaned more often than wool), color (light colors show soil and wear sooner) and activity (heavy duty/outside versus desk job) 2) Recommended method for cleaning (dry cleaning, machine washing and drying, hand washing, etc.) 3) Cost of cleaning 4) Number of times the garment will be worn per year (Winter coat is worn less than jeans. Jeans can be worn all year round).
Total wearings includes the number of wearings for the entire life of garment.
Example: Sweater B is a blend of cotton, ramie and silk; dark red; fisherman weave; pearl buttons. Cost $50; dry cleaning $4.50; will be worn 20 times each year and dry cleaned every other wearing (10 times/year), with life expectancy of 3 years (3x 20), so that: Cost/wearing = [cost + {care cost x #cleanings}] ÷ total wearings = $50 + [$4.50 x 30 cleanings] ÷ 60 wearings = $50 + $135 ÷ 60 = $185 ÷ 60 = $3.08 per wearing
Wise consumers read labels and take care-requirements into consideration before making purchasing decisions. The sweater used in the example above would cost approximately $1.08 / wearing if the care method would have specified hand washing and air-drying: = $50 + [.50 x 30 cleanings] ÷ 60 wearings = $1.08 per wearing
Cleaning costs: Use the following figures in your data sheet calculations for cleaning costs: $1.50 for machine washing and machine drying $ .50 for hand washing and air-drying $ .75 for machine wash – line dry $5.00 for dry cleaning Though local dry cleaner fees may differ, use the figures above for your calculations. In the data packet for Ready to Wear Contest, you will be asked to calculate the approximate cost per wearing your outfit. Please remember to show your mathematical calculations on the data sheets. Points will be deducted if calculations are not included. As a reminder, you may also be asked to calculate cost per wearing during the contest.
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Upcycled Fashion: A Recycling Project Study Guide
The Upcycled Fashion Contest demonstrates recycling knowledge and redesign skills using recyclable materials to create a wearable outfit for the runway. The design should be wearable, neat and of quality workmanship. Clothing should meet acceptable standards of appropriateness for a 4-H or school function. In the Fashion Revue Program, 4-H members are evaluated based on consumer decision making, quality analysis, quality of construction or workmanship, degree of difficulty, modeling, fit, and appearance as well as the question for judges. While the information below will help to get a basic understanding, it is important to research for more information. Links included provide additional information.
Textiles are all around us. Every day we come across textiles in different forms: clothes, carpets, towels, seat covers, or medical aids. Fast Fashion has changed the way people buy and dispose of clothing. This concept thrives on the ideas of more for less. Fast fashion is clothing generally copied from newly released fashions, sewn and on the shelves within two weeks. Fast fashion has become a dominant business model. While fast fashion offers consumers less expensive clothes, they are also cheap in quality and don’t last.
In the 90’s trade liberalization policies wiped out most import restrictions and duties on foreign made clothing. American clothing retailers look to foreign countries to purchase less expensive fabric and ready-made garments. Today the US apparel market is the largest in the world. Hardly any clothing available in America has a Made in USA label.
Most clothes sold in the US are made with cotton or polyester. Polyester, a synthetic textile, is made from oil and does not break down once thrown in the landfill. Polyester has only been around since 1958 (62 years) and it is estimated that it will take 500 years to decompose in the landfill. This fast fashion model encourages consumer to throw away clothing. According to the Council for Textile Recycling, the average US citizen throws away 70 pounds of clothing and other textiles annually. Clothing ($700 million worth of used clothing) not thrown in the landfill (5000,000 tons) is exported overseas. Cotton is biodegradable and recyclable. Cotton is one of the most biodegradable fibers which usually takes about 5 months.
The fashion industry contributes a large amount of waste and is one of the biggest contributors to pollution with 3/5’s of all clothing manufactured ending up in landfills or incinerators.
In recent years, sustainability has become a major trend in the textile industry. However, it is the consumer’s responsibility to educate themselves about sustainable clothing: better quality fibers, fabrics, and construction used to create better quality classic clothing that will last. Maybe it’s time for the age-old motto of that less is more.
Why should we begin upcycling or recycling in the fashion industry?
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What is the answer to this?
Slow fashion, green fashion, eco fashion, higher quality materials with a long life, eco- textiles and recyclable materials are becoming increasing important to the fashion industry.
The main difference between upcycling and recycling is that with upcycled clothes, waste is looked at creatively and transformed into something new. Recycling requires material to be broken down first before it can be used. Clothing is classified into three groups when recycling: reuse, rags and fiber by the textile recycling industry. Textile recycling involves using thrown away clothing and shoes for processing into new clothing, cloth scraps, rags and fibers.
About half of clothing is reused: exported to developing countries, while some are sold in thrift stores. Some are sent to industry as rags and wipes. Fibers are used in furniture, padding, panel linings, loudspeaker cones as well as home, car insulation, and more.
Upcycling- Most clothing can be upcycled which means to reuse a discarded item to create a product of better quality than the original or into something new and usable. This allows the fashion industry to contribute less waste, allows for greater creativity, and because each item is unique, the limited availability of certain designer’s creations increases the value, and the creations can be considered art.
Repurpose- give old items new life. Repurposing involves using pre-existing clothes, accessories or non clothing to restructure them into new garments. This can be done by going into thrift shops and finding secondhand items or even utilizing clothes in your own home to use in a new way. Ex. Making denim shorts out of old jeans, using fabric paints or rhinestones on old jeans, creating a purse or a fabric storybook from jeans, using a child’s pair of leggings to add sleeves to a tank style shirt, cutting down a men’s dress shirt to make a child’s dress, using old t-shirts to make a memory quilt. The possibilities are endless! The fashion industry has been finding ways to use deadstock- fabric or textiles left over from the manufacture of other items such as garments, shoes or purses- into creating small batch items in upcycled fashion.
Reuse- In addition to recreating something to wear, recycled clothing, fabrics and fibers can be made into cloth scraps, rags, and rugs. The textile recyclers can also produce insulation, mattresses, loudspeaker cones and much more. But not all clothing is recyclable.
Sustainability in the fashion industry- is the practice of using methods that do not destroy natural resources, allows the company to produce products for consumers at reasonable prices, while protecting the environment that includes trust from the consumer for eco-friendly practices.
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How can we help in the Upcycle/Recycle movement? 1- Learn about textiles- the fiber content, man-made vs. natural, blends, the ways fibers can be made into material/fabric, and clothing care. All are important in the way that the items can be upcycled or recycled. There are ways you can make a positive impact to the environment. Choose natural fibers. While most clothing available today is made of polyester and cotton, there are many other sources both synthetic and natural from which clothing is created. Natural fibers are biodegradable, whereas most synthetic fibers are not biodegradable. Take care of your synthetic clothing so that it lasts longer. Synthetic fibers will be with us for 500 years or more. We are not quite sure how long it will take. The way you choose clothing can make a difference in our environment—such as the type of fabric chosen, The Nature Conservancy says. 2- Make more environmentally conscious choices when shopping for clothing. Buying clothing made of natural fibers with quality construction allows wearing what you already have for a longer time. This is one way that you can help the environment. 3- Upcycle clothing: recycle what doesn't fit or out of style or you no longer want into something new 4- Buy secondhand clothes. 5- Sell your items online that are in great condition to trusted resellers like Poshmark or thredUP. 6- Donate clothes to thrift stores (only 15% of unwanted clothing is actually recycled). 7- Repair clothes rather than throwing them away. Learn to repair a seam, replace a button, raise or lower a hem. 8- Follow instructions on clothing labels and laundry products to care for your textile items so that they will last longer. 9- Purchase clothing that is of classic styles that do not go out of style and is of higher quality so that it will last longer. 10- Turn cotton and linen fabrics into rags to use around the house or shop. These fibers are more absorbent than synthetic fibers. 11- Wear clothes until they wear out- then fix by darning, mending or patching. Once past the point of fixing, repurpose clothing. Most clothing can be upcycled which means to reuse a discarded item to create a product of better quality than the original or into something new and usable. 12- Recycling clothes by sending to companies who collect and process discarded clothing.
Buying clothing made of natural fibers with quality construction allows wearing what you already have for a longer time. This is one way that you can help the environment. In addition to upcycling, buying used clothes, recycling what doesn't fit and repairing damaged clothes rather than throwing them away are ways you can make a positive impact to the environment.
Brands that Recycle and Upcycle clothing: Patagonia uses recycled plastic bottles to make fleece, shorts and jackets in the Re\\\collection line. Patagonia will also take their clothes that can’t be repaired and recycle it. Urban Renewal by urban outfitters creates new items out of products that companies make but are not able to sell. https://compareethics.com/9-recycled-and- upcycled-clothing-brands-you-shouldnt-pass-in-2018/
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4-H U Runway Upcycled Fashion Outfit: □ Materials used in the construction of garments MUST be post-consumer, post-industrial or post agricultural waste. Designers may use materials for construction such as glue, tape, dyes, markers, thread, zippers, elastic, wire, string, Velcro, boning, buckram, grommets, laces, starch, paint, etc. No food waste. □ Participants will create a new outfit, not simply embellish an old one. □ Footwear made from recyclable material is preferred, however, street shoes are acceptable. Shoes must be safe to walk in. □ Accessories may be made of recyclable materials as well. Submit a completed data packet including photos online prior to the deadline. Only the data packet is submitted for judging prior to 4-H U. The garment and accessories are NOT submitted prior to 4-H U.
There are lots of examples of ways to upcycle clothing. Check out the informational resources below. Have fun, be creative!
Resources:
Land of Waste: American Landfills and Waste Production: https://www.saveonenergy.com/land- of-waste/
15 upcycled clothing ideas you’ll actually want to wear. https://www.wellandgood.com/good- looks/upcycle-clothes/
20 Old clothes recycle ideas that you need to upcycle old wardrobe items. https://cutediyprojects.com/repurpose/old-clothes-recycle-ideas-that-you-need-to-upcycle-old- wardrobe-items/
Reduce, Reuse and Recycle, to enjoy a better life/ Educational video for kids. (3:39) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OasbYWF4_S8
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Respond: Environmental conservation. (20:36) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YIrKW6jXjdM
American Textile Recycling Service: http://atrscorp.com/
What’s behind the rise of upcycled garments? https://fashionista.com/2019/01/upcycled-clothing-sustainable-fashion-trend
10 Luxury fashion brands that upcycle. https://eluxemagazine.com/fashion/fashion-brands-that-upcycle/
The Future of Fashion is Circular: Why the 2020’s Will be about making new clothes out of old ones. https://www.vogue.com/article/sustainability-2020s-circular-fashion-textile-recycling
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Tanya Giroir, Superintendent 4-H U Fashion Revue Objectives are for youth to: Build self-confidence, learning to project a smile, enthusiasm and poise Develop good posture and grooming habits. Create and select clothing that is becoming, and expressive of one’s personality. Develop skills in planning, selecting, and sewing clothing and accessories for different occasions. Develop skills in recognition of quality construction techniques and workmanship. Model with confidence clothing selected to meet one’s wardrobe needs. Acquire knowledge and skills in planning, presenting, and participating in Fashion Revues.
In the 4-H University Fashion Revue Program, 4-H members are evaluated based on consumer decision making, quality analysis, quality of construction or workmanship, degree of difficulty, modeling, fit, and appearance.
The 4-H Fashion Board is a state-level leadership board for those who love fashion! Fashion Board members plan, organize and present the Statewide 4-H Fashion Camp and the 4-H U Fashion Show from contest garments submitted for 4-H U Fashion Revue. Join us and be a part of something special! 4-H U Educational Program 4-H U Fashion Revue consists of 3 different contests. This year, Fashion Revue contests will be submitted online but Appearance Judging will be held face to face on June 22 in Alexandria at the EVAC Shelter. Submit photos and video of yourself modeling your 4-H U garment for appearance judging - these photos will be used in the 4-H University Virtual Fashion Show. 4-H U Fashion Revue Contest packets must be submitted online by Friday, June 4th. RTW exam will be online. The Fashion Show will be held virtually during 4-H U Week Wednesday evening. Dates and Deadlines! May 19th: Orientation for June 4th: Submit contest Leadership Board packet members. June 10th: RTW exams May 28th: Registration for must be completed 4-H U closes June 14th: Fashion Board You should receive an Interviews online email for contest online June 23 : 4HU Fashion training date Show online. Training materials June 24th: Announcement available online of Fashion Board Access online to upload Members packet for all contests and June 30th: Award winners RTW exam announced! Fashion Contests 1. It’s SEW You! 2. Ready to Wear 3. Upcycled Fashion: A Recycling Project
3 contestant entries per contest 9 total entries may come from each parish All contestants participate in 1. Data Packet Entry including garment photos, videos and questions 2. Appearance Judging in Alexandria 3. Virtual 4-H U Fashion Show where you are the runway stars! Photos This year… Appearance Judging for all contests: Face to face June 22, Alexandria
No garments are submitted It’s SEW You! photos Packets completed online 4 photos (#1 – 4) RTW exam (only one) is completed Construction judging online 10 more photos Judges use photos and video (14 total) submitted to evaluate Clear and focused Ready to Wear photos Background free of clutter 4 photos (#1 – 4) Up close for details 3 Additional Outfits Additional photos may be added 3 additional photos (7 total)
Upcycled Fashion photos 4 photos (#1 – 4) 6 more photos, #5-10 (10 total) Sewing Contest: It’s SEW You!
It’s SEW You!: For those who are lucky enough to have the time-honored skill of sewing Submit: and those willing to learn. 1. Personal Data Packet only Outfit must be sewn by contestant 2. Photos and video of Knowledge of fibers, fabrics, and garment for judging construction techniques 3. Garment not submitted Garment is judged for construction for judging techniques using photos submitted
What’s Judged? Award? 1. Before 4-H U: 1. National Congress 1. Data Packet 2. Sewing Machine or 2. Appearance Judging Serger 4-H U Fashion Revue Contests Ready to Wear: Upcycled Fashion: For those who love to shop and For an artist, designer or stylist; shop smart for those with an eye for fashion 4-H U Outfit may be completely who want to have fun with ready to wear garments or a different materials. combination of RTW and sewn For those who are environmentally garments friendly and creative 3 additional outfits created from Outfit is created out of recyclable personal closet. materials Complete an exam on knowledge Garment is not submitted for of fibers, fabrics, and construction judging techniques Garment is not submitted for judging Ready to Wear Upcycled Fashion: A Recycling Project Submit: 1. Personal Data Packet only Submit 1. Personal Data Packet What’s Judged? only 1. Personal Data Packet 2. Exam What’s Judged? 3. Appearance Judging 1. Personal Data Packet 2. Appearance Judging Award: 4-H Fashion Field Study Award: 4-H Educational Trip The Upcycled Fashion Contest
Create a wearable outfit for the runway Contest demonstrates recycling knowledge and redesign skills using recyclable materials. The design should be wearable, neat and of quality workmanship. Clothing should meet acceptable standards of appropriateness for a 4-H or school function. Upcycled Fashion A Recycling Project 1. Research and find your inspiration. 2. Sketch your idea and collect recyclable materials needed to create outfit. Must be at least 75% recycled or reused materials such as clothing, paper, plastic, etc. 3. Put together garments and accessories that are wearable and will not fall apart on the runway. 4. Submit personal data packet for judging including photos. 5. Photos submitted will be used for Appearance Judging and Virtual Fashion Show! Upcycled Fashion Contest
Do your research about recycling facts, recycling materials and recycling fashion. Research both the:
Decide what materials you will Importance of Recycling use for your runway garment. Benefits of recycling
Packet includes information on recycling as well as other recyclable and non-recyclable materials. Keep track of and identify materials used in your garment. Inspiration ideas! Materials are endless Clothing: outgrown, cast-offs, thrift store finds. Magazines, newspaper, cards, etc.
Shopping bags, plastic containers and lids, bubble wrap, bottle caps, straws, cds, wrapping paper, pet food bags, coffee filters, etc. No glass, no glitter, no sharp edges Inspiration ideas! Ready to Wear Contest
Put together/style a 4-H U outfit using items from home closets (no need to purchase new items) and are judged on selection and appearance. Style 3 more outfits from your closet using an item from the original 4-H U outfit. Photo of each outfit Judged on styling using different items, accessories, shoes, hats, etc. And yes…you can even borrow items if needed. Complete the data packet. Submit online. RTW What you need to know: What’s Judged? Reasons for Selection based on: 1. Personal Data Packet Textile Science Knowledge, fiber 2. Exam properties, advantages, 3. Appearance Judging disadvantages, care Design Principles and Elements Garment Analysis Quality construction Textile content and % Laundry Care Scenario given Winter or summer? Inside or out? Cost of Garment Textile Science Facts Fiber Common Fabric Types Advantages Disadvantages Typical Care Batiste, broadcloth, corduroy, denim, Absorbent, breathes, cool, comfortable Wrinkles and shrinks (unless Machine wash, tumble dry; can flannel, seersucker, sheeting, terry, strong, soft hand determined by fabric treated, it is weakened by be bleached; iron while damp Cotton velveteen structure, often easier to sew mildew), not colorfast
Damask, handkerchief, lawn, fabrics Absorbent, cool, strong, breathable, Wrinkles, shrinks; weakened by Dry clean to retain crispiness, or with nubby textures has luster mildew, more expensive than wash to soften; iron while damp Linen cotton Broadcloth, charmeuse, chiffon, Absorbent, warm, lustrous; drapes Weakened by sunlight and Dry clean, although some can be crepe de chine, linen, organza, raw beautifully, soft hand determined by perspiration, wrinkles, expensive, hand washed; iron on wrong side Silk silk, satin fabric structure, takes color well attacked by silverfish, insects at low temperature
Naturals Challis, crepe, flannel, garbardine, Absorbent, warm; flame and wrinkle Shrinks; attracts moths; knits Dry clean, although some can be jersey, melton, tweed resistant; good insulation, dyes well, tend to stretch during wear, can machine washed; press with Wool be scratchy on skin steam iron and press cloth on right side Satin, silk-like fabrics, taffeta, twill Silk-like luster; drapes well; dries Fades; relatively weak; exhibits Dry clean or gently machine quickly; low cost static cling; wrinkles wash, tumble dry low, iron low Acetate temperature Double knits, fleece, pile fabrics, Warm; resists wrinkles, mildew, moths Sensitive to heat; pills; has static Machine wash, tumble dry; needs Acrylic wool-like fabrics and oily stains, dyes to bright colors cling no ironing Illusion, net, tricot, two-way stretch Strong, warm, light-weight; resists Has static cling; pills; holds body Hand or machine wash, tumble Nylon knits (swimwear) wet-look cire moths and mildew heat dry; iron at low temp Cotton-, silk- and wool-like fabrics, Strong, warm; very wrinkle-resistant; Has static cling; pills; stains are Machine wash, tumble dry; needs crepe, double and single knits, fleece, holds shape and a pressed crease; hard to remove; holds body heat, little or no ironing Polyester georgette, jersey, panne velvet, satin, resists moths and mildew, fast drying, low absorbency taffeta dyes well; colorfast Challis, crepe, faile, linen-like fabrics, Absorbent, breathable, easily dyed, Relatively fragile; holds body Dry clean or gently machine matte jersey, velvet colorfast, inexpensive heat; wrinkles; shrinks, stretches wash; iron at moderate temp; can Synthetics Rayon be bleached Stretch wovens; two-way stretch Excellent stretch properties; good White fabrics may become yellow Wash or dry clean; iron quickly knits (swimwear, active wear fabrics) durability; no pilling or static cling from prolonged exposure to air, on low temp setting Spandex harmed by chlorine, Combination of two or more fibers Meant to bring out the best properties of each fiber included Care determined by most Blends sensitive fiber All contestants participate! Created from contestants’ photos modeling contest garment! Invite your family and friends by letting them know when and how to view the video for the Virtual Fashion Show! Wednesday evening program Thank You for what you do every day!
Good Luck to each of you! Tanya Giroir 4-H U Fashion Revue Contest Superintendent [email protected] 4-H U Fashion Revue Quality in Garment Construction Priorities have changed? Common Quality Myths Quality . Higher price means higher In the past, things were built quality. to last. . Go-To brands are always high Today, we are a disposable quality. society. . All fabric created equal. Do you expect clothes to be cheap? Don’t have time to examine item? Planned obsolescence. What is Quality? When nice fabrics meet excellent construction! It’s all about Fibers, Fabric, Construction and Fit! • Natural fibers? • Synthetics? • Fabric: thick or thin? • Fabric hand? • Scrunch test? • Good seams and details? • Fit? How to recognize quality? Fit and Comfort Construction Fabric Fibers
Note: How you care for your clothing also matters! Videos: Fibers, Fabrics, Textile Industry Many videos are available on just about any topic. Here are just a few.
• Fabric in Fashion: introduction to • How Linen IS Made Fibers. • Cotton Campus • Fabric in Fashion: Weaves • How Cotton is Processed in Factories • Silk Weaving • How T-Shirts Are Made in America: • 10 tricks to spot high quality clothes from the ground up • How to buy fabric (terminology and • Cotton Explained - How To Spot shopping tips) Quality Cotton Fabrics, Shirts, • How to confidently sew knit fabrics on Sweaters your home machine • Sewing 101: seam basics – wovens • A thread of truth: a factual look at • Let’s talk about thread sewing thread (needles, glossary) • 11 spring outfits with a denim jacket • 20 best style tips How to Recognize Quality Shop at high end, expensive clothing stores or thrift stores! Handle the clothing. Try it on. Fit is important. Look at small details, both inside and outside. Shop at men’s clothing department, may be better quality. Then go to less expensive stores and compare. Quality signs… • More stitches per inch and tighter seams. • Self-facings. • On-grain except for bias cut. • Finishing techniques: check for seam grin. • Serged seam: most common vs. flat felled, French, taped • Matched seams, plaids. • Hem allowance. • Fabric blend percentages. • Genuine Leather. • Outlets, TJ Maxx, etc. More Quality signs… • Extra buttons, sequins, etc. • Avoid fussy details or fragile trim. • Zippers and Closures: button, hook & eye, snaps. • Buttonholes and buttons. • Shank on button? • Pockets. • Linings. • Ample ease, room to grow. Better Buttonhole?
The tighter the stitch the better the buttonhole. The fabric beneath the stitching should not be visible. Bound and keyhole buttonholes are best quality, add to the cost of manufacturing therefore adding to the cost of a quality garment. Seams and Stitching Puckered seam: Flat felled seam Serged seam poor quality Quality construction Poor fit = poor quality No one want to feel cheated!
Train yourself to spot shoddy construction, identify cheap materials, and make informed decisions.
It takes time and practice.
Buy clothes on sale whenever possible. Shop sales and save money. Good Luck!
Thanks for participating in the Fashion Revue! Let me know if you have any questions….ask!
Tanya Giroir [email protected]
Carbon Fiber
Carbon fiber: Carbon fiber is fiber made of carbon, material consisting of very thin filaments of carbon atoms bound together with a plastic polymer resin by heat, pressure or in a vacuum. This forms a strong and lightweight, nonconductive fiber. The most commonly used resin is epoxy, but can also be thermoplastic, polyurethane, vinyl ester or polyester. Use of carbon fibers depends on its density and often used in tubing, fabric, and cloth, and can be custom formed into any number of parts and pieces. Carbon fiber is thinner than human hair but gets its strength from being twisted otherer to form a yarn. Widely used in commercial and civilian aircraft, recreations, industrial and transportation markets (automobile components, bicycle frames, fishing rods, shoe soles, baseball hats, protective cases for laptops. More uses can be found in aeronautics and aerospace industries, oil and gas industry, military, unmanned aerial vehicles, satellites, musical instruments such as bows, furniture, art, building elements, bridges, wind turbine blades.) The mechanical properties of carbon fiber composites make it a good material for prosthetics that can closely match human limb performance. Common uses of the standard commercial grade carbon include sporting goods, car hoods, and aftermarket parts and accessories like IPhone cases. High grade carbon fiber is used in the aerospace industry on an aircraft, and formula 1 cars. Aerospace and space industries were the first to adopt the use of carbon fiber. Carbon-based fibers can be used for protective apparel, especially fire-retardant clothing. And today, you can purchase a tee shirt made of carbon fibers that claims to last 100 years. In addition, you can purchase bicycle clothes from Italy made from carbon fabric.
A brief history of Carbon Fibres Thomas Edison invented the electrical bulb during 1879 and he used cotton threads/bamboo slivers at very high temperatures in an enclosed glass tube which cuts off oxygen supply and threads were backed which carbonized them into carbon fibre filament. Roger Bacon was the first to create the carbon fibre from polyacrylonitrile (PAN) during 1958 and discovered its tensile strength. About 85 to 90% of fibres are made from polyacrylonitrile and remaining are made from rayon or petroleum pitch. All of these materials are organic polymers, characterized by long strings of molecules bound together by carbon atoms.
Carbon fiber cloth: Carbon fiber is the backbone of lightweight composites. Understanding what carbon fiber cloth is requires knowing the manufacturing process and composite industry terminology. Carbon is manufactured into bundles of thousands of tiny fibers of different filament measures, spun into thread/yarn, and woven into cloth. Carbon fiber cloth can be used in reinforcements applications such as Kevlar. Clothing made of carbon fibers may repel fire, wind, rain and snow. Recent innovations have produced wearable carbon fiber cloth. While the fiber cloth is strong, it can be processed into a soft, lightweight, breathable, highly elastic and high wicking as well as highly abrasion resistant fabric.
Advantages: lightweight, high strength (5 times stronger than steel), stiffest and strongest reinforcing fibers for polymer composites, difficult to break, offers heat and flame protection. Disadvantages: very expensive when compared to other materials, lots of energy is used to achieve the high temperatures required in production process. Carbon is difficult and costly to dye. Cutting and stitching processes are more difficult in garment production. Typical Care: Since carbon is inherently flame resistant, FR garments made with carbon will not be degraded with laundering. This means the FR qualities of the garments will not wash out or wear away over time as it does with chemical finishes. For FR garments do not machine wash or dry with lint giver items. It is important to follow the care label directions. In addition, do not use bleach or fabric softener, hang dry, machine drying is not recommended, do not dry clean. Wash regularly and rinse completely. There are specialty products available to clean carbon fiber clothing.
Emerging technology: Carbon Fiber and FR Clothing https://tyndaleusa.com/blog/2013/12/06/emerging-technology-carbon-fiber-and-fr- clothing/
Carbon Fiber and Fiber Cloth Information: https://www.globalspec.com/learnmore/materials_chemicals_adhesives/composites_t extiles_reinforcements/carbon_fiber_carbon_fiber_cloth
Carbon Fibre – strong stiff, & light weight fibres: https://www.textileschool.com/3281/carbon-fibre-strong-stiff-light-weight-fibres/
Carbon Fiber T Shirt: https://www.vollebak.com/product/carbon-fibre-t-shirt-black/ Fiber Common Fabric Types Advantages Disadvantages Typical Care Batiste, broadcloth, corduroy, Absorbent, breathes, cool, Wrinkles and shrinks (unless Machine wash, tumble dry; can denim, flannel, seersucker, comfortable strong, soft treated, it is weakened by be bleached; iron while damp sheeting, terry, velveteen hand determined by fabric mildew), not colorfast Cotton structure, often easier to sew
Damask, handkerchief, lawn, Absorbent, cool, strong, Wrinkles, shrinks; weakened Dry clean to retain crispiness, or Linen fabrics with nubby textures breathable, has luster, by mildew, more expensive wash to soften; iron while damp than cotton Broadcloth, charmeuse, chiffon, Absorbent, warm, lustrous; Weakened by sunlight and Dry clean, although some can be
Naturals crepe de chine, linen, organza, drapes beautifully, soft hand perspiration, wrinkles, hand washed; iron on wrong Silk raw silk, satin determined by fabric expensive, attacked by side at low temperature structure, takes color well silverfish, insects Challis, crepe, flannel, Absorbent, warm; flame Shrinks; attracts moths; knits Dry clean, although some can be garbardine, jersey, melton, and wrinkle resistant; good tend to stretch during wear, machine washed; press with Wool tweed insulation, dyes well, can be scratchy on skin steam iron and press cloth on right side Satin, silk-like fabrics, taffeta, Silk-like luster; drapes well; Fades; relatively weak; Dry clean or gently machine Acetate twill dries quickly; low cost exhibits static cling; wrinkles wash, tumble dry low, iron low temperature Double knits, fleece, pile Warm; resists wrinkles, Sensitive to heat; pills; has Machine wash, tumble dry; Acrylic fabrics, wool-like fabrics mildew, moths and oily static cling needs no ironing stains, dyes to bright colors Illusion, net, tricot, two-way Strong, warm, light-weight; Has static cling; pills; holds Hand or machine wash, tumble Nylon stretch knits (swimwear) wet- resists moths and mildew body heat dry; iron at low temp
look cire Cotton-, silk- and wool-like Strong, warm; very wrinkle- Has static cling; pills; stains Machine wash, tumble dry; fabrics, crepe, double and resistant; holds shape and are hard to remove; holds needs little or no ironing Polyester single knits, fleece, georgette, a pressed crease; resists body heat, low absorbency jersey, panne velvet, satin, moths and mildew, fast taffeta drying, dyes well; colorfast
Synthetics Challis, crepe, faile, linen-like Absorbent, breathable, Relatively fragile; holds body Dry clean or gently machine Rayon fabrics, matte jersey, velvet easily dyed, colorfast, heat; wrinkles; shrinks, wash; iron at moderate temp; inexpensive stretches can be bleached Stretch wovens; two-way Excellent stretch properties; White fabrics may become Wash or dry clean; iron quickly stretch knits (swimwear, active good durability; no pilling or yellow from prolonged on low temp setting Spandex wear fabrics) static cling exposure to air, harmed by chlorine, Combination of two or more Meant to bring out the best properties of each fiber included Care determined by most Blends fibers sensitive fiber Textile Science: the study of properties and processing of fibers, yarns, fabrics, dyes and finishes in both natural and synthetic. You are surrounded by textiles everywhere…your car, your home, school! Every fiber and fabric is different from others. From artificial heart valves and vessels, hip joints and other medical implants to protective gear, clothing and blankets, textiles are important to our daily lives. Cotton and linens wrinkle, silk requires delicate handling and wool can be irritating to the touch. Synthetics may deliver great comfort, soil release and dyeing properties. Certain fabrics are more durable and comfortable to wear than others. Understanding fiber and fabrics characteristics can lead to better decisions when choosing textile products protecting your dollar investment.
Fibers are long, thin strands spun into a yarn. Fabric is a cloth material made by weaving, knitting or matting yarns together. 1. Natural Fibers come from sources found in nature like animal and plants. Examples include: wool, cotton, linen and silk as well as hair or fur. Natural fibers are comfortable, durable and absorbent but can shrink or wrinkle easier than man-made fibers and often easier to sew with. 2. Manufactured fibers are man-made and are either regenerated or synthetic. Regenerated from natural materials such as wood pulp or synthetic fibers made entirely of chemicals. 3. Blends are natural and synthetic fibers used together to create a fabric with the best of qualities from the fibers. For example: cotton shrinks and wrinkles but is absorbent and cool and polyester is not absorbent therefore hot to wear but does not wrinkle or shrink. When cotton and polyester fibers are blended into one fabric, the fabric has the best of the characteristics of both fibers. The blended fabric will be comfortable yet not shrink and wrinkle as much as a 100% cotton shirt.
Fiber content by law must be given on the label under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act. Fiber content must list fibers with the highest percentage appearing first. Examples: cotton 100% or 60% polyester/40% cotton. Also required is care, origin, manufacturer RN#.
Fabric Hand is the feel of touching the fabric softness or roughness. It is also important to the drape of a fabric. Fabrics with a soft hand will drape well on the body creating a flowing design and be more comfortable against the skin.
Fabric Performance is created for a variety of end-uses. Examples include moisture management, UV protection, anti-microbial, thermo-regulation as well as personal body protection and wind/weather resistance. Cotton is naturally more absorbent than synthetic fibers which helps with moisture management. Others are chemically added to help with ease of wear offering wrinkle resistance.
Fabric Appropriateness is key when deciding which fabric would be best to purchase or when sewing a garment. It encompasses fiber content, fabric hand and fabric performance. Ask the following questions when determining what fiber or fabric is most appropriate. 1. Where will I wear this? Picking a fabric that is appropriate for the occasion is important. Cotton is less likely to be worn to the prom because it is a more casual fabric while silk is not appropriate for a baseball uniform because is more fragile and too dressy. 2. What environmental factors will I be dealing with? Certain fibers trap heat and are best in a cold climate, where others are better for a humid environment. Example: Cotton is absorbent and cool, polyester is no absorbent and warm on a hot and humid day. 3. What will I be doing? Will you be getting dirty? Will it need to laundered often? Baseball uniforms are more comfortable when made of a knitted fabric for ease in movement.
Fibers, Weaves, Fabrics and Perspiration: Making wise consumer choices.
Understanding fibers and technology in relation to comfort and perspiration. Medically important, sweat is a clear, salty liquid naturally produced by your sweat glands in your skin. Sweat cools the body during exercise and hot environments and eliminates wastes from the body. These glands are found all over the body. When sweat is mixed with bacteria on your skin, it can cause an odor. Good hygiene, bathing regularly, and using deodorants and antiperspirants can help control odor and perspiration.
Antiperspirants and deodorants work differently, antiperspirants work by reducing sweat and deodorants work by increasing the skin’s acidity but does not reduce perspiration. The acidity makes it less likely for bacterial growth which causes odor. Antiperspirants temporarily block sweat pores thereby reducing perspiration.
We all sweat when temperatures heat up, but some of us sweat more easily and much more than others. There's nothing wrong with that — in fact, sweating is good for you. It opens pores to release toxins and regulates body temperature. But when it happens on your way to work, at a party, or on a first date, it's inconvenient, feels uncomfortable and sometimes embarrassing.
But what about your clothes in this hot and humid Louisiana weather? Traditionally, natural fabrics like cotton, linen and even wool have been better for excessive sweaters than synthetic fabrics because they breathe better. Linen is the lightest of the three fabrics and will probably make you feel "cooler," and light wool, like merino, helps transfer heat away from the body to provide a cooling effect. Light, 100% cotton is a good choice as well because it's breathable, which means the fabric absorbs moisture, in this case perspiration. Since the body cools when air hits moist skin, cotton is a good choice if you need to get your body temperature down in a hurry. But where cotton and other natural fabrics fall short is that they all retain the excessive moisture that doesn't evaporate from the skin. In other words, if you're sweating, everyone can tell.
You want to choose the appropriate fiber, weave and design for your activity: Light weight fabrics Breathability (finer threads, looser weaves, more pours materials) Loose fitting that will not cling to your skin Vents or mesh panel increase airflow Lighter colors Moisture wicking and quick-drying fabrics
Wise wardrobe choices can help keep your perspiration at manageable (or at least less visible) levels. Shenan Fraguadas, a New York-based technical designer, recommends choosing natural fibers, including cotton, pima cotton, linen and tropical wool. "[They] are generally better at soaking up moisture from the skin and allowing it to evaporate from the outer surface". Five fabrics best avoided are below: Viscose/Rayon
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Viscose, more commonly known in the U.S. as Rayon, is a fiber created from cellulose chemically extracted from trees. It's a little weaker in strength than cotton, and thus is often used to make delicate, lighter clothing. Although light and breezy, this synthetic fiber, like all synthetic fibers, tends to be water-repellent, allowing "sweat to build up, reducing evaporation, and causing discomfort and irritation." Silk "Silk, although a natural fiber, tends to repel water" rather than absorbing it, says Fraguadas. "It can get unpleasantly moist." If you have ever worn a silk shirt under sweltering conditions, you may have noticed the intense rippling on the fabric. When water is held against silk, the fabric puckers and ripples, and when the silk dries, the texture becomes rougher. Silk is also great at retaining body odor. Polyester/Polyester Blend Perhaps the most common of the synthetic fabrics, polyester is abundant in outdoor and winter wear. It's durable and boasts resistance to chemicals, mildew, abrasion, stretch, and mildew. It's also water-repellant, which means that rather than absorbing sweat, it allows perspiration to build up inside the garment. And polyester blended with natural fibers is not much better. "[Natural] fibers can hide, and [even] a 40 percent blend or mix of synthetics can create wetness," warns Fraguadas. Nylon Nylon is entirely synthetic, which puts it at the top of the list of fabrics to avoid. Nylon is commonly used in trendy workout attire and stockings, both of which can be extremely uncomfortable and leave the skin vulnerable to chaffing when you sweat. The only exception to wearing nylon in the summertime is swimwear, where its low absorbency and water resistance are central to the garment's performance. Even long sleeves to protect your skin from the sun is recommended in swimwear. Light-Colored Fabrics Dark-colored fabrics make moisture much less visible, and bright white is equally effective at hiding sweat stains. The light colors (Light blues, pale greens, any shade of grey, and lighter hues of any color) will show moisture.
Tips: DO: Wear cotton whenever possible. A good quality, lightweight cotton is one of the most breathable fabrics around so it will allow a little airflow for drying out the dampness. Also, cotton is a natural fiber, so it absorbs moisture, rather than repelling it. Evaporative cooling is the concept. DON'T: Choose clothes with a polyester base fabric. While it is one of the most commonly used manmade fabrics thanks to its durability, in the summertime, durability equals water resistant, which means zero absorption of perspiration. Lots of sweat with nowhere to go could cause irritation and overall discomfort. Unless in swimwear. DO: Choose pants, dresses and shorts in a lightweight linen. Like our other fabric friend cotton, linen is created from natural fibers, so it is super absorbent with a fast drying time — perfect for when your clothes do come in contact with your sweaty self. Also, it tends to be relaxed, so it won't cling to your body. Linen does easily wrinkle. Choose a linen blend for both excellent absorption and anti-wrinkle qualities.
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DON'T: Rayon is widely marketed as an easy-breezy fabric that will keep you cool when the temperatures rise. While this is usually lightweight, it is made from synthetic fibers, just like polyester, and repels rather than absorbs water. DO: Wear chambray instead of denim in the summer. Chambray is found in shorts, shirts, and jumpers made out of this lighter denim alternative. A lightweight chambray is flowy and breathable and won't be too constricting in the heat. DON'T: Wear your favorite skinny jeans. While denim is made of cotton and is a durable, heavyweight fabric without a lot of give, it is both constricting and the opposite of breathable. Wearing denim outside in the summer is sweaty and can be unpleasant because it may lead to chaffing when combined with the tight-fitting styles. DO: Choose stretch fabrics with moisture wicking properties. Most of these blends are polyester based, but fabrics that have magical moisture wicking powers are woven in a way that allows them to be more permeable which allows sweat to disappear. When shopping for clothing that is stretchy and tight fitting — mainly workout wear, leggings, tops, and tees — make sure you are taking home a poly blend that has moisture wicking weaves. DON'T: Choose cotton/spandex. If you choose a cotton/spandex legging, you will be sitting in your own sweat. Cotton is no longer breathable when it is combined with spandex — this blend tends to be a heavier weight cotton and when combined with lycra, spandex. Today find a pair infused with the wicking technology.
Technical moisture wicking fabrics: Wicking: A moisture-wicking fabric has two jobs: one is quickly moving (wicking) sweat to the fabric’s outer surface and the other is drying rapidly so that your sweat doesn’t saturate the fabric. The result is that you’re more comfortable because your body can regulate its temperature efficiently and the fabric touching your skin has a dry, non-sticky feel. These technical fabrics are also coated to resist fading under the sun or in chlorine which helps durability. These fabrics also go by many trademarked names that major sports brands use
KEEP IT CLEAN Synthetic wicking fabrics are so great at repelling water that they repel water in the washing machine, too. Dirt and body oils are difficult to remove and can leave your activewear smelly after only a few washes. It is the bacteria, sweat and body oils that build up inside synthetics fabrics that cause the smelly problem. Allowing your sweaty athletic garment to dry before washing helps to reduce bacteria. Launder by pre-soaking sports clothing in a vinegar solution, some also recommend adding baking soda to the vinegar. Soak for 15-30 minutes, then wash. The baking soda which is alkaline help ride of the sweat’s acidic odor. Another option is to use a special antimicrobial detergent like HaloSport, Tide Sport, Sport Suds or Hex Performance Detergent which are all designed to combat odors. Never use fabric softener on your technical fabrics, as it can further prevent the detergent from reaching the dirt, as well as removing any special coatings on the fabric. Softeners coat the fabric with a waxy residue that interferes with the carefully engineered finish.
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Wash clothes inside-out. This lessens fading and pilling and gets the detergent to the source of body oil, bacteria and dirt. Avoid tumble drying on high heat, hang dry or dry flat. Wash in cold water. Hot water sets.
Testing Wickability: If you are sewing wicking fabrics, it’s important to be able to tell the right side of the fabric from the wrong, so the moisture doesn’t move in the wrong direction. If you can’t tell by looking at the weave, then you can do an informal test by lightly spraying one side with water and noting how long it takes to line dry. Repeat with the other side. The side sprayed which dries the quickest should be against the skin.
Which Fabrics Are Moisture-Wicking?
• Most moisture-wicking fabrics are synthetics: When moisture gets absorbed into a fabric’s yarns, it’s trapped there instead of moving through the fabric. providing poor moisture-wicking performance. Synthetic fabrics are “hydrophobic,” which means they resist the penetration of water. That’s why you see a lot of synthetic fabrics, like polyester or nylon, excel at moisture wicking. • Wool is also considered moisture-wicking: Wool is a slightly different animal. It actually absorbs a small amount of liquid into the core of its fibers, but it also wicks moisture out through small openings within the fabric. The result is that the surface of wool yarns remains dry to the touch. • Cotton is the “anti-moisture-wicking” fabric: The classic example of a non- wicking fabric is cotton, which gets completely saturated with sweat and then takes forever to dry. At first it makes you feel hot and sticky; ultimately, it leaves you feeling cold and clammy. You can find cotton fabrics that have been specially treated to make them moisture wicking, but their performance lags behind synthetics and wool. However while cotton absorbs rather than wicks away moisture, in searing heat, some people wear cotton and wet garment in water to enhance the evaporation cooling effect.
Natural Fibers If you remember only one thing about natural fabrics, it should be that cotton is a terrible fabric for activewear. If you prefer to exercise in natural fibers, however, there are still some great alternatives. BAMBOO It may seem incredible, but the same plant that feeds pandas can be pulped and processed into a rayon (viscose) fiber that’s soft, anti-microbial, durable, and wicking. Bamboo has gained attention recently for being an eco-friendly alternative to synthetic fibers. MERINO WOOL This fiber is a great choice for both cold or warm weather exercise as it’s warm, breathable, wicking, and antimicrobial. It’s also less scratchy than traditional wools and can be combined with spandex fibers to maintain recovery. It’s most often seen as jerseys and suiting fabrics, and is becoming more common in casualwear, too.
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Synthetics Survey the labels of your ready-to-wear activewear and you’ll see that nearly all are made from polyester, and yet still allow you to sweat and feel cool while exercising. This is because the new generation of technical fabrics are created to allow moisture through the weave and wick away from the body, where it can evaporate on the surface, keeping you cool. Technical fabrics can also be waterproof. It may sound like a contradiction, but some fabrics can be both breathable and waterproof, allowing you to get caught in a downpour but not feel steamy inside after a few hours of hiking. When most of us think of technical fabrics, we think of stretchy, breathable fabrics we can sweat in without feeling overly hot or cold. But there are many different fabrics which fit this description — from smooth or brush-backed jerseys, to large- or fine-holed meshes, piques, and rib knits. There really is a technical fabric out there for just about every activity!
Brand names Supplex: A trademark of Invista, Supplex fabrics are breathable and fast drying with great color retention. Supplex is usually a stretch jersey, but can sometimes come as a thin woven, too. This is a useful term to search for, as many online retailers label any wicking jersey as “supplex”. Tactel: Also, a trademark of Invista, Tactel fabrics are strong, light, soft, and dry eight times faster than cotton. Tactel is often used for underwear and comes in the form of stretch jersey. Lycra: It may surprise you, but Lycra is actually a trademarked name of Invista, and it falls under the generic “spandex” name. Lycra fabrics are extremely stretchy, have great recovery, and are often blended alongside other fibers to help maintain shape and support. Lycra is always seen as a stretch fabric, but can be inserted into wovens or jerseys, and used in activewear, swimwear, underwear, hosiery, and pretty much any other garment you can think of. Dri-Fit: Dri-Fit is a trademark of Nike, and the main advantage of this wicking polyester is its high evaporation rate. Dri-fit usually has a little stretch, and can often be identified by its small, regular holes. It’s most commonly seen in “technical” race shirts given away at events. Meryl: A trademark of Nylstar, Meryl is a nylon microfiber with great stretch and recovery, wicking weave, and odor control. Meryl can come in many different forms, such as stretch jerseys, sweater knits, coated wovens, and meshes.
Linen Linen is one of the joys of summer menswear. It’s light, breathable, and has a unique texture that makes it stand out in an ensemble. Some dislike it because it wrinkles too easily, but the lightly wrinkled texture is part of the charm of linen, and higher-quality linens are woven tightly enough that the wrinkling is minimal. Linen can be used to make matched suits, odd jackets and trousers, and dress shirts. Traditional style
Page 5 of 9 manuals might tell you not to mix linens, but unmatched jacket and trousers are usually fine. Pros: · Very lightweight and breathable – often the coolest option available · Unique texture is visibly different from the more common cotton · Dries quickly and does not retain moisture Cons: · Expensive to manufacture, driving the price up · Prone to creasing and wrinkling · Less durable than cotton or wool; can require careful maintenance
Wool We don’t usually think of wool as a hot-weather fabric. Most of its properties make it ideal in the winter, and typical wool suitings are both thick and heavy. There are, however, a few kinds of “tropical-weight” wools meant for summer wear. The more common kind are essentially the same worsted or flannel wool of a conventional suiting, but made with very thin, light threads to reduce weight. An alternative technique uses a looser weave to make the wool more breathable, but twists the individual threads much tighter to compensate for the loss in strength. Fresco wool is probably the most famous example of these high-twist wools, which tend to be expensive but even lighter and more comfortable than traditional lightweight wool. Pros: · Neatest-looking and dressiest summer fabric · Smoother drape and cleaner lines than linen · More breathable and faster-drying than cotton Cons: · Heavier than linen or cotton · Expensive · Quality varies — not all “tropical-weight” wool is comfortable in the tropics!
Here, in no particular order, are the specific fabrics best suited for hot-weather outfits:
Cotton Most men probably rely on cotton for the bulk of their summer wardrobe. It’s light and breathable and substantially cheaper than wool or linen, so there’s some sense to that choice.
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The trouble with cotton is that its performance can vary widely depending on construction. Wool fibers are actually much more airy than cotton, which means that cotton needs to be woven more loosely to let the same amount of air out. Breathable, lightweight cotton is mostly limited to specific summer weaves. Here are a few of the most common examples: · Twill – Anyone will recognize twill weave from their blue jeans — the diagonal ribbing is very distinctive. Done in very fine threads it makes a light cloth, and is a common choice for cotton suits and jackets. There are a number of variations on the twill weave, but in general it’s used to make a garment sturdy and even. That gives it a nice drape, but can make it hot in the summer. While common (and cheap) as “summer wear,” it’s often not the best choice. · Poplin – Poplin has a faint dimpled texture that comes from using two different sizes of threads in the weave. The dimples make tiny air pockets, making the garment much more breathable and faster-drying than a flat weave. Poplin is a common choice for higher-end polo shirts and summer dress shirts. You can also find poplin trousers (very comfortable), and even the occasional jacket.
· Seersucker – Probably the lightest cotton weave, seersucker is slow and expensive to produce but very comfortable. It has a much more distinctive dimple pattern than poplin, giving it a wrinkled appearance. Seersucker is used for shirts (usually short- sleeved), trousers, and suits, though the latter are usually not seen outside the United States. · Madras – Madras is a specific weave, but is best known as a dyed plaid pattern. Whether it boasts the specific plaid or not it’s a lightweight summer staple used for shorts, shirts, and jackets. The surface is smoother than seersucker or poplin, but a very loose weave keeps it breathable. · Gauze – We mostly think of gauze as a medical fabric, but this loose weave was actually used for British military wear in the tropics for many years. The individual threads are heavier than other light weaves, but the weave is much loser (you can see through it if you hold it up to the light), resulting in a breathable cloth that allows moisture to evaporate quickly. It’s an uncommon but extremely comfortable choice for casual shirts. These are only the most common examples — people have been making cotton clothes for hot climates for thousands of years. But the lighter the threads and the looser the weave, the more comfortable the cotton will be. Densely woven cotton like oxford and broadcloth can quickly become stifling in the summer, holding both sweat and body-warmed air in close to the skin. An easy test is to simply hold a small section of the fabric up and tug it taut. Loose weaves will have stretch to them, while a tight weave like twill has relatively little give. You can also hold the weave up to a light to see how much passes through. The more see-through the cloth, the lighter and looser the weave. Pros: · Cheap, ubiquitous, and familiar · Can be extremely light in the right weave · Easiest fabric to maintain — most cotton garments can be machine-washed Cons: · Absorbs and retains sweat much more than wool or linen · Lacks the smooth drape of wool or the breeziness of linen
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· Tends to lose its shape and droop in humid heat — does better in dry climates
Silk It’s hard to get fancier than silk, and in terms of strength for weight trade-off it’s an unbeaten champion. Unfortunately, the intersection of silk that’s fine enough to look good as dress clothing, sturdy enough to wear regularly, and light enough to be comfortable in the heat is hard to find. Good summer silk needs to be woven loose enough to let air in and out. Lighter threads will make it more comfortable but also more fragile. Silk sturdy enough to make a jacket out of would be stifling in the heat — it’s best left as a material for casual, drawstring or wrap pants and the occasional loose shirt. Pros: · Smooth, comfortable texture feels good on bare skin · Can make much lighter cloth than other materials · Holds colors well and gives a distinct sheen Cons: · Fragile, prone to wrinkling, and difficult to maintain · Retains moisture · Expensive — often costs the same as much more functional cloths
Synthetics and Blends We need to be very careful when we talk about synthetic fibers. Some are very useful in hot weather — most modern activewear and sportswear is made from proprietary fibers engineered for specific moisture-wicking and breathability properties. However, traditional synthetic alternatives to cotton and silk like polyester are also still out there. Polyester, rayon, and their various relatives are plastic-like fibers that lack breathability. Their light weight is handy and they cost a fraction of even a plain cotton shirt, but they quickly become stifling and sweat-soaked in the heat. Anyone who’s worn a good “under armor” style liner shirt or underwear can attest to the usefulness of certain, specific synthetics. Avoid the older, cheaper synthetics, and the ubiquitous 50/50 cotton blends they often appear in. Pros: · Good synthetics can wick moisture away, making you feel less sweaty · Extremely lightweight, often lighter than natural fibers can achieve Cons: · Entirely synthetic garments often lack breathability · Can irritate the skin, particularly if the weave is fine enough to bunch up · Often used for cost-saving rather than useful properties
Whatever you decide to purchase and wear in our Louisiana weather, choose wisely. Knowing fibers, fabrics and weaves and how they relate to our hot and humid weather will help you make wise consumer choices when purchasing and care for your wardrobe.
Sources • "5 Simple Tips to Control Excessive Underarm Sweating." Buzzle.com. 2010. http://www.buzzle.com/articles/5simple-tips-to-control-excessive-underarm- sweating.html
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• "Fabrics." Fabrics.net. 2010.http://www.fabrics.net/cotton.asp • "How Our Fabrics Work." Lunarradiance.com. 2010. http://www.lunarradiance.com/index.php?p=fabrics • "Wicking fabric." Football.kitdesigner.co.uk. 2010. http://football.kitdesigner.co.uk/resources/wicking-fabric/ • Schulz, Nick. "No Sweat: Does perspiration-fighting athletic gear really work?" Slate.com. Sept. 14, 2005.http://www.slate.com/id/2124889 • Seamwork: https://www.seamwork.com/issues/2015/01/a-guide-to-activewear- fabrics • Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics 2012. Analysis of fabrics Structure on Character of Wicking. http://www.jeffjournal.org/papers/Volume7/7.3.5R.Babu.pdf • Don’t Sweat it: 6 Tips to Get the Stink our of Workout Clothes. https://speedqueen.com/6-tips-to-get-the-stink-out-of-workout-clothes/
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Do You Know Quality?
While color, style, price and fit of a garment may attract your attention, other features help determine your ultimate satisfaction. What is a quality and value of a garment?
Know quality standards to get the most for your clothing dollar. Know fibers and fabrics as well as construction techniques. Examine garment’s physical and performance features before you buy. Well-made clothing will look better, last longer. Predicting durability is difficult. Learn what helps clothes last longer. Buy the best your budget will allow. Use the following tool to check your clothing purchases. (Adapted from Sue Byrd, Professor Fashion Merchandising, University of Tennessee at Martin)
INSTRUCTIONS: Choose a shirt you have in your closet that buttons up the front, has sleeves and a collar. Examine your shirt and rate it on the following criteria. CHARACTERISTICS: SIGNS OF QUALITY RATING Circle your findings 1=POORLY MADE 5=SUPERB 1. FIT Smooth fit without undesirable wrinkles? 1 2 3 4 5 Do lines of garment follow line of body? Enough ease at shoulder? At crotch? 1. FABRIC Free of flaws? Wrinkle too easily? On grain? Bias? 1 2 3 4 5 Easy to care for? Yarns tightly twisted? 2. SEAMS Stitch length appropriate for fabric? Seam grin? 1 2 3 4 5 Puckering? Broken? Proper seam allowance 3. HEM Neat appearance? Top stitching straight? 1 2 3 4 5 4. COLLAR Collar point uniform (even)? Interfacing (added 1 2 3 4 5 thickness) in collar so that collar has enough stiffness to lay flat and have body? 5. BUTTONS Sewn securely with no hanging threads? Enough 1 2 3 4 5 thread loops so button will not fall off? Enough buttons used to prevent gaping? 6. BUTTONHOLES Buttonholes well-made with thread completely 1 2 3 4 5 covering the edges of the buttonholes? Is there equal distance between buttonholes? 7. REINFORCEMENT IN Interfacing for buttons and buttonholes? Shoulder? 1 2 3 4 5 FRONT OF GARMENT Underarm? Crotch? 8. SLEEVES Are seams smooth with no gathers, puckers? 1 2 3 4 5 9. FABRIC DESIGN Does pattern or plaid or design match at seams? 1 2 3 4 5 10. POCKET Does pocket lay flat with straight and even 1 2 3 4 5 topstitching? Reinforced corners? Deep enough? FINAL EVALUATION How does the overall quality of your garment rate? 1 2 3 4 5 Is the garment worth the price paid? If your “FINAL EVALUATION” was 4 or 5, congratulations! If your evaluation was 1 or 2, you may not be getting your money’s worth. You may want to use this tool when buying other garments to get the best buy for your money. Developing your skills to analyze garment quality will build your consumer skills, critical thinking and decision-making skills.