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The Waterside Inn The famous Roux family changed the way English people eat and have inspired a generation of chefs and gourmands. Michel Roux Jnr may be more well-known thanks to his illustrious TV career but his cousin Alain Roux has unobtrusively made his own mark. Chef Chantel Dartnall met him at the eponymous Waterside Inn. Written by Sarah Marjoribanks Chef Alain Roux is often referred to as family lines in 1990, with chef Michel Jnr Alain he was never handed anything on “the quiet one” in the famous Roux family of Master Chef Professionals taking up the the proverbial silver platter. culinary dynasty, but has certainly made a reins at Le Gavroche in 1993 and Alain “I had to prove myself and show that I am name for himself at the world renowed inheriting the 3 Michelin star Waterside worthy to be part the team; that I could Waterside Inn. Inn. In 2010 the latter became the first progress and develop to the point where His father - Michel and uncle Albert were restaurant outside of France to retain all Dad thought it was the right time to allow the founders of Le Gavroche in London three Michelin stars for 25 years. Chef me to take over. It finally happened after in 1967 followed by the Waterside Inn in Alain started working at Waterside in 10 years of working together.” Berkshire. 1991 after having worked in kitchens all over France for eight years. However, as I The Waterside Inn, with Windsor Castle The two brothers split the business along discovered during my interview with chef and Eton as neighbours, is steeped in 22 23 first, then on making a dish look good. roots and learn the basics. “Good service tradition but chef Alain never let himself classic and modern French cuisine at its for longer than normal cooking times) While Chef Alain is proud of the accolades is also theatre. The front of house must be burdened by his heritage and culinary best. and thinks that, while it is sometimes the restaurant has received, he firmly know how to speak and explain the food pedigree. interesting, it reminds him too much of a believes that quality should be excellent to diners. Everyone has to pull together Le Menu Gastronomique is only decided factory. no matter how many stars a restaurant and work as a team.” “I am proud to be part of the Roux legacy. every morning, based on the market may have. However, you have to build on it and availability of the freshest ingredients He’s not a fan of molecular cuisine either: While the kitchen brigade and staff have bring a part of yourself to it. We do try and has a truly seasonal feel. Tastes are “Kitchens such as The Fat Duck don’t “It is all about consistency and continuity. to perform, he also believes that a fine to develop new creations for the house unadulterated, and the focus is on the smell like a kitchen anymore. There’s This is the biggest chunk of the hard dining restaurant’s customer also have a and be as innovative as possible in the minimum ingredient. no aroma of cooking and sauces.” work.” role to play. context of respect for the tradition of Biodynamics and sustainability are the restaurant. Cooking in general is an Like Merlin of oldes, chef Alain’s magic important to him – “you must know It’s also about working together as a “I would just ask that the customer knows evolutionary process, starting with the tough lure the taste and essence of his where the product, the source of the food, cohesive group. what to expect. They need to understand Chantel Dartnall has become basics or fundamentals of classical French ingredients to the fote, the duck succulent comes from. It is all part of a chain which things in order to be able to appreciate it. renowned, not only in South Africa but cooking then adding a personal twist or and soft taste like duck should... you should know about” – although 80 “We have an extensive team, front to If you have no knowledge of what a good interpretation.” percent of the produce used in the kitchen back, and having a mix of youth and dish is, and good service, why bother? I in culinary circles around the world, Although he keeps up to date with new at Waterside comes from France. “People experience is important. The younger think that’s why people eat fast food for her innovative and meticulous The atmosphere at the Waterside Inn may technology and new equipment, Alain are very conscious of what they eat and generation brings new blood, enthusiasm today and it’s a shame. Like many things in approach to modern fine dining. She be relaxed but Diego Masciaga, Maître still enjoys cooking as chefs have done they want quality. Guests from overseas and passion and bond well with customers life, you need to do things gradually and is the award-winning patron chef at de Maison keeps an ever watchfull eye through generations. He admits to be especially are looking for high quality,” he of all ages. It’s good to see so many learn that experience counts. You need to Restaurant Mosaic, located in The in the restaurant as well as the hotel and a fan of tradition. He has cooked sous- maintains. youngsters coming to work as part of our be experienced as a customer too.” Orient Boutique Hotel in the Francolin maintains an exquisite attention to detail. vide (a method of cooking food sealed kitchen brigade, because they realise that Conservation Area, Elandsfontein, Menus are created to demonstrate both in airtight plastic bags in a water bath He prefers to focus on flavour and texture time is very important to go back to the Crocodile River Valley, Gauteng. 24 25.

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