Globetrotting Gastronomes Exploring the World Via Its
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Food, glorious food: (this page from top left): elBullí in Catalonia, ELBULLI Spain, now closed; cauliflower risotto from The Fat Duck; The Fat Duck’s exterior; foodies Ali Kurshat Altinsoy (top) and Andy Hayler; Out to lunch: (this page, le gargouillou salad from clockwise from below) Restaurant Bras. gourmet adventurer Per Wimmer outside Noma, the world’s current top restaurant; inside Noma; Noma’s æbleskiver with moikko, a fish-filled savoury doughnut. brush up on the ancient world and art history, today the questing class seeks enlightenment not in galleries and museums but in eating houses. T H E Travellers such as Dutch insurance executive FAT David Diepbrink, whose recent dining highlights DUCK include Noma, Tickets in Barcelona (run by Ferran Adrià, late of elBullí, and his brother, Albert), Heston Blumenthal’s The Fat Duck in England, Jean-Georges in New York, and “a local seafood restaurant on the coast of Portugal”. The 41-year-old lives in Luxembourg and travels 45 weekends a year for pleasure – to visit friends, to watch football matches or concerts, and to eat. “I always joke that since I’m not married, I need to have an expensive hobby,” he explains. “I like travel and food, so it is just a nice combination, no? I don’t care for fancy cars or expensive watches. Compared with that, eating a few times a year in good restaurants is not that obscene.” Several NOMA times a year, he will fly somewhere solely to eat – within reason. He declined a last-minute invita- “I have not made travel plans for many, many years that do not first involve thinking about where to eat ... Museums, galleries or shows are very much secondary.” The journeys and has since become a sought-after tion to elBullí before it closed because the cost writer and critic. His motivation, he insists, has involved was “morally unacceptable for me”. never wavered. Diepbrink is a modest man. Dining in fine “My passion is food, and seeking out the best restaurants is not about prestige or bragging places is my goal,” explains Hayler, who estimates rights for him: “Bragging about something that he has dined out three to six times a week for 20 you can describe only as luck, that’s never some- years. “These days, places pop up in the most thing one should do.” gourmet unlikely locations, and that will continue to hap- Jeff Brady describes himself as an average vet It’s the new feeding frenzy: globetrotting gastronomes pen, so I will keep on as long as I am able to.” from Melbourne’s inner west, but his lifelong Four years after Hayler’s achievement, in May dedication to fantastic food is anything but com- exploring the world via its top restaurants. Kendall Hill RESTAURANT 2008, a Swiss motorcycle courier called Pascal mon. He attended his first cooking class in 1984 discovers what it takes to be an extreme diner. BRAS Henry embarked on a quixotic bid to eat at all 68 and has been hooked on cooks ever since. A life- three-starred restaurants in Europe in 68 days. time of classes and food tours has introduced club He was midway through his “route 68” pilgrim- him to pioneering Australian chefs such as Ben age when he vanished after a bravura 30-course Shewry, Tetsuya Wakuda and Christine Manfield. as an adventurer, per wimmer likes to At Elton John’s annual Winter Ball, Wimmer feasted on creations from some wondrous new flavour”. Tanizaki writes that their mission is to meal on the Costa Brava at elBullí, at the time Internationally, he has chewed the fat with Slow forge new frontiers in everything he does. When the team at elBullí, the most influential kitchen in the world until it packed unearth “a symphony of foods! And orchestral cuisine! … Food whose considered the pinnacle of international gas- Food founder Carlo Petrini and Spanish radicals he’s not performing a tandem skydive over the up its Pacojets in 2011. (“I must say I wasn’t too impressed. The main course flavours would make the flesh melt and raise the soul to heaven.” tronomy. He did not pay the bill. Juan Mari Arzak and his daughter Elena, and peak of Everest, or completing launch-and- was like a small starter, so everybody left there wanting to buy pizza.”) He Henry resurfaced the following year to explain Andoni Luis Aduriz. re-entry simulations in preparation for the three has also broken bread with astronaut Buzz Aldrin at The Ivy in London, and ine-dining fanatics come in many different guises. some are himself. “This frenzy of tables, it was like an ad- He consumed the meal that transformed him space flights he has booked, the London-based gorged on truffles in St Bart’s with PayPal co-founder Elon Musk. professionals, like Swedish photographer Per-Anders Jorgensen – diction,” he told Swiss blogger Jacques Perrin. “In from consumer to connoisseur of food at Alain investment banker can be found testing his met- Dining at such a discriminating level sits well with his intrepid nature. Fone of the more enthusiastic food pilgrims around (you can follow the beginning I was swept up in the euphoria, but Passard’s Parisian luminary, L’Arpège, in 1988. tle at the world’s most electrifying restaurants. “It’s taking a must-do habit of human beings – eating – and turning that him at #pa_jorgensen). Fellow photographer Bob Noto is another who the further the journey advanced, the less it made Brady still recalls, vividly, the chaud-froid (hot- Of course he has eaten at Noma, the Copenhagen into something that is unique, adventurous, pushing boundaries, counter- seems to pop up all over the plate. “He’s the Zelig of the European food sense. It became almost insane.” cold) eggs to begin, and the confit tomato dessert Asensation anointed the world’s most outstanding intuitive,” Wimmer explains. scene,” says one Australian critic. And there’s the young Turkish investment By the time he sat down at the prized Enoteca to finish. “There were unusual combinations restaurant by the 900-strong expert panel of It is not only millionaire adventurers being swept up in the euphoria of banker Ali Kurshat Altinsoy, an acolyte of high dining whose Food Snob blog Pinchiorri in Florence, “I knew it had no mean- such as lobster and turnip, and a dish of crab S. Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best awards. The Harvard- extreme dining. The combined force of global restaurant rankings, the chronicled his refined appetites until he went professional and joined the ing. I felt like a prisoner.” A week later, he limped wrapped in cabbage leaves and salmon finished educated financier found chef René Redzepi’s mass media’s infatuation with all things edible and the relative ease of air Noma mod squad as organiser of its annual forage fest, the MAD food camp. out of elBullí after midnight, got in his car and with a sauce made from its blood. The ideas and 12-course degustation “totally in a league of its travel has spurred a race of globetrotting gourmets with an unprecedent- Amateurs are no less susceptible to the siren song of elite dining. Andy drove off into the darkness. flavours were incredible. I have been back five own” though, like many before him, he baulked at ed obsession with eating. Hayler is a UK technology expert who, on an impulse, dined at every res- times and every time it just gets better,” he says. the live shrimp course. “For the first time in a long The Japanese writer Junichiro Tanizaki tapped the zeitgeist in his short taurant awarded the top, three-star rating by the Michelin guide in 2004 (a think of it as the 21st-century equivalent Now, before he goes anywhere, the first thing time, I came across an adventure which I thought story “The Gourmet Club”, about five gastronomes who “scoured all the feat he repeated again in 2008, 2010 and again last year). of the Grand Tour. Where once aristocrats em- Brady sorts out is his stomach: “I have not made was just a bit too much,” he laughs. eateries of Tokyo, hoping to impress their fellow members by discovering He started a website, andyhayler.com, devoted to his gastronomic barked on continental journeys of discovery to travel plans for many, many years that do not first 18 GoodWeekend JANUARY 26, 2013 JANUARY 26, 2013 GoodWeekend 19 involve thinking about where to eat. Any muse- stand why a transit passenger with an Australian to Shanghai would be for restaurants,” she says. ums, galleries, exhibitions or shows are very passport would want to leave the airport, so she Specifically, a legendary little joint called Jesse much secondary.” gave me a steely look and asked: ‘What is the that serves “the ultimate Shanghainese comfort Towards the end of 2011, he and his wife Annie purpose of your visit to the United Kingdom?’ ” food. I would put it above Noma.” embarked on a DIY La Grande Bouffe through Murphy told the truth: “I have come for lunch.” Yao, Diepbrink and Wimmer are all regulars at France, Spain and Italy, notching up 30 Michelin She smiled and waved him through. an event billed by Forbes magazine as “the ulti- stars in Europe’s most renowned restaurants, in- Davis Yu, a 23-year-old Melbourne restaurateur, mate dinner party” and by Huffington Post as cluding all of Spain’s three-star Michelins and travels once every two or three weeks and posts “the world’s most coveted dinner tickets”; Dining legendary French and Italian stalwarts including albums of his most memorable meals at davisdi- Impossible is a three-day gastronomic bender in Cracco, Le Calandre and L’Arpège, again.