Older Than the Rolling Stones Villa Demidoff Hosts Annual Tuscan/American Celebration Etruscan Rocks Star in Archaelogical Exhibit

Anno 2 numero 36 - Firenze Thursday 29 June 2006

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Runway over Prince of vice Forza Azzurri!!! The Palio: the river Designer Roberto Son of last By Leo Cardini ready, set, go Cavalli takes Italian King arrested By Kara Hoffman Florence as his muse see pg. 4 see pg. 6 see pg. 16 see pg. 21

INDEPENDENCE DAY Older than the Rolling Stones Villa Demidoff hosts annual Tuscan/American celebration Etruscan rocks star in Archaelogical Exhibit

xpect it all—hamburgers fresh Eoff the grill, watermelon and homemade ice cream. Expect sun and shade, kids’ relay races, multi- uring ‘Archaeological Nights’ cal cinema, history lovers will have oni (‘Living like an Etruscan: Iden- coloured balloons and pony rides. Tuscany shows off its most their share of excitement this sum- tity and Contamination’) highlights In a word, look for all the fun, Dancient treasures in a packed mer. Currently the biggest archaeo- how Mediterranean populations games and good spirits charac- calendar of 300 cultural events based logical festival in Italy and Europe, profoundly influenced the Etruscan teristic of the Fourth of July. Only on the theme ‘Ancient Tuscany in the initiative was created in 2001 identity. Nineteen local museums, this year, expect to treat yourself Europe and the Mediterranean.’ Dur- and has gained international fame all members of the Archaeological to a bit of American indepen- ing special exhibits and extraordi- over the past five years. Designed Museum Association of Tuscany, dence—in Tuscany. On Saturday, nary archaeological hikes, Tuscany’s to expose some of the region’s more will come together to host this July 1, from 5 pm to 11 pm, the museums and parks will welcome hidden treasures, this year’s theme extraordinary event, which is spon- Villa Demidoff in Pratolino will play night-time visitors throughout the delves deeply into the relationship sored also by the Tuscan Region and host to over 3,000 people gath- summer months. Thanks to theme between the Etruscans and other the Superintendents of Tuscany’s ering to celebrate the day in the dinners, cultural lectures and inter- Mediterranean civilizations. Vivere archaeological patrimony. company of the American-Floren- national previews of archaeologi- da Etrusco, Identità e Contaminazi- tine community. see pg. 3 see pg. 3

VOLVO XC70. DON’T STOP TO EXPLORE.

DEALER Peragnoli-Scar PETROL ENGINE 2.5 T 210 bhp (154KW). FIRENZE (NORD) - Via F. Baracca 183 - Phone 055.43074 TURBODIESEL COMMON RAIL D5: 163 bhp (120KW), 185 bhp (136KW). EMPOLI (FI) - Via Tosco Romagnola 120/122 - Phone 0571.592929 ALSO AVAILABLE WITH GEARTRONIC AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. Fuel consumption, mixed cycle: 7.6 - 11.1 l/100 km. AUTHORIZED REPAIRER SIENA (MONTERIGGIONI) - Via Cassia Nord 110 - Phone 0577.318505 www.peragnoliscar.com Carbon dioxide emissions: 201 - 266 g/Km. 2 Thursday 29 June 2006 www.thefl orentine.net �������������� DON’T THINK ABOUT IT FOR ANOTHER CENTURY... JUST SUBSCRIBE TO THE FLORENTINE NOW ������� ���������������������������������������� Name :______�������������� ������������������ Address to send subscription: ������������������ ������������������� ______��� ������������������������������ street city/state ��������������������������������������� ������ ������������������������������� ______��� ������������������������������������������� postal code country ����������������������������������������� Email Address:______������������ ����������������������������������� ��� ������������������ Codice Fiscale or Partita IVA:______������������������������ ������������������������� ����������������� Subscription rates for 24 issues (one year subscription) are as follows: ��������������������������� Italy: Euro 60 ® ��� Rest of Europe/UK: Euro 75 ® ����������������� North America: Euro 85 ® ���������������������������������� Australia: Euro 90 ® ������������������������������� Method of payment: �������������������� ������������������ Cash ® ������������������������������� ����������������� Check written to: to B’Gruppo Srl ® ���������������������������������������� ���������������������������������� Money Transfer to B’Gruppo s.r.l., ® ��������������������������������� Credito Emiliano, c/c 5642/9 ������������������������������ ����������������������� ABI 03032, CAB 21500 ������������������������������������������� �������������������������������������� (attach a copy of transaction) ���������������������������� Mail or drop off this form with payment: �������������������������������������� ������������������ The Florentine ��������������� ��������������������������������������� ���������������������������������� via Santa Maria 32/r 50125 Firenze - Italy ������������������������ ��������������������� ��������������������� ��������������� Tel/fax +39 055 2306616 ����������������������� ������������������������� ����������������� ��������������������������� Email: [email protected] ��������������������������� ��������������� ���������������������������������� ���������������������������������������� ��������������������������� �������������������������������������������� ����������������������������������������� �������������������� ���������������������������������� ���������������������������������������� ���������������������������������������� �������������������������������������� ������������������������� ��������������������������������� ������������������������������������� ������������������������������ ������������������������������������� � ������������������������ ����������������������������� ��������������������������������� ��������������������������� ������������������� �������������������� ��������������������������� ���������������������������������������� ������������������������� �����������������������������

HOT IN THE CITY July 27 will be The Florentine’ s last summer issue.

On September 7, we’ re back feet by in town with news and views leo cardini around Florence.

June 29-30, July 1 Alda Baby cordially invites you to the presentation of its Spring/Summer 2007 collection at Hotel S.Gallo Palace – sala ‘Lorenzo’ via Lorenzo il Magnifi co, 2 – Firenze tel. 055-463871 Alda Baby baby clothes For reservations please call or write to us (tel. 0573/532777, [email protected]). made in Italy Walk-ins welcome 3 www.thefl orentine.net News Thursday 29 June 2006

������������������������������ Florence NEWS www.thefl orentine.net via santa maria 32r - 50125 Firenze continued from pg. 1 tel. fax 0552306616 info@thefl orentine.net editore Older than the Rolling Stones Table of CONTENTS Azimuth s.r.l. Greek ceramics found in Etruscan burial grounds take centre stage in viale Montegrappa 142 - 59100 Prato Pitigliano, the Archaeological Civic Museum dedicated to Etruscan civiliza- FLORENCE NEWS direttore responsabile tion, in their newest exhibit ‘Heroes, Divinity and Love,’ while the Etruscan 1 Older than the Rolling Stones Fabiana Ceccarelli Museum of Cortona’s Academy will explore the ancient art of perfume- Independence day making in an experimental educational exhibit called ‘La Via dei Profumi’. editor in Chief During this two-month show starting July 1, fragrance fans can enjoy a Nita Tucker myriad of rich essential oils recreated thanks to ancient Latin and Greek Could it happen again? managing editor texts. For those who prefer the art of eating, the Archaeological and Art Museum of the Maremma will host an initiative called ‘Living like an Etrus- 4 Linda Falcone Runway over the river can: Banquets, Aristocracy and Wine’ from July 1 to Aug. 31. contributing editors Starting July 6, experts at the archaeological mineral park in San Silves- Marco Badiani, Elia della Chiesa, tro a Campiglia Marittima will invite rock collectors to hop on a ‘mineral Fort with a view Giovanni Giusti, Antonio Lo Iacono, train’ for a one-and-a-half kilometre trip into the heart of the earth, along 5 the ancient via ferrata used by miners. More than 90 types of minerals can Street artists scrutinized Kate Bolton, Amy Gulick, Tony Tucker be found in this open-air mineral history museum. Guided visits and hiking cultural editor routes in Cortona will take the old and new archaeologists to more than ‘Just say no’ to alcohol to-go eleven sites within its Archaeological Park from July 1 to July 9. Hikers can Jane Fortune follow Hannibal’s footsteps along ancient Roman roads that once hosted travel & Leisure writer the famed Battle of Trasimeno. Those who are looking for some alterna- NATIONAL NEWS Sabine Eiche tive ‘nightlife’ can spend an evening or two in Civitella Paganico and take 6 Right-left tug-of-war a night-time stroll around the Roman baths in Pietratonda. From July 2 to graphics and layout 6, brave night owls may carry torches through the Archaeological Park in Prince of vice Leo Cardini - Cathy Gale Piombino and enjoy the monumental necropolis of San Cerbone. agilelogica.it SPORT NEWS 7 Alonso slams fourth straight printer continued from pg. 1 win in Canadian GP La Marina, Calenzano (Fi) INDEPENDENCE DAY Fear for the Fiorentina iscrizione al ROC The annual festivities have been organized by the Tuscan American (reg. degli operatori di comunicazione) Association, the International American League, the US Consulate General TOP PICKS & n. 9927 reg. trib. di Prato and several American universities in collaboration with various public insti- 9 CALENDAR OF EVENTS trasmessa il 19/04/05 tutions from the City of Florence. Picnic-goers can expect speeches from Events Highlights the Province President, Matteo Renzi, and the Mayor of the Municipality of Vaglia. Honoured guests will include the Consul General of Florence, Nora Dempsey, and various civil and military authorities of Florence and Tuscany. UP CLOSE & PERSONAL The local Marshals’ School Band and the Sergeants’ squad of the Carabin- 14 An interview with ieri military police will provide a touch of offi cial fanfare, and guests will also Gunnar Peterson enjoy a traditional performance of Florentine Historical Soccer fl ag wavers. Dance lovers will enjoy night performances by the Jarama Ballet choreo- CULTURE & CUSTOMS graphed by Queta Meja Rodrigues. Music will be provided by G. La Pira 15 ITALIAN VOICES: Chorus in concert with Master Gianluca Serveri and the Black and White A Window on Language Ensemble accompanied by Maestro Alessandro Coco. Reyoada will per- and Customs in Italy form Latin-American dancing and jazz and the Fabbrica di Pongo will give the audience a taste of traditional country rhythms. Football fans who wish Forza Azzurri!!! to congregate in the Villa’s Sala Rossa will be able to enjoy two World Cup 16 matches, broadcast on the maxi-screen at 6 pm and 9 pm. Event sponsors include Ely Lilly, APT (Associazione Promozione Tourism Raindrops kept falling Firenze), The Florentine, Nuova Pignone, Calzoni In Colliva di Bologna, VM Motori, Expeditor International Italia, CocaCola, McDonalds, Culligan, Fat- 17 toria Luiano, Azienda Agricola Casale di Riccardo Falchini, Balloon Express, Scuola Equitazione Fiorentina, Castello Banfi , La Marzocco, Vivoli, Conviv- STYLE & FASHION ium, Comunità Montana del Mugello, Florsheim Europe, Syracuse Univer- 18 Catching Vespa fever sity, Villa I Tatti, Rutgers University, and Mr Wolf Snc. Generous contribu- tions have also been offered by Ente Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze, Banca Toscana, Offi cine S. Maria Novella Firenze. Ticket price is 5 euro. Children THE ARTS enter free. Please RSVP with full name, via email to july4fi [email protected] ‘Passion For Life’ For further information, please contact Francesco Bardazzi 328-611-6323. 19

TRAVEL & LEISURE 20 Siena: city of colour 21 The Palio: ready, set, go

BOOK REVIEW 22 Lasting Love, Politics and Poetry

USEFUL NUMBERS 23 CLASSIFIED ADS

4 Thursday 29 June 2006 News www.thefl orentine.net Florence NEWS

News in BRIEF RUNWAY OVER Tip-toeing to Siena Could it happen again? In a recent environmental con- THE RIVER ference with participants from Concerns still exist 40 years after Flood Europe, Asia, the US and Aus- Designer Roberto tralia, Siena’s Santa Maria della the fl ood of 1966. It is a compen- Cavalli takes Florence Scala, became host to those dium of people, places, stories, dedicated to learning how to ‘tip- culture, traditions surrounding the as his muse toe’ more lightly on the planet. history of Tuscany’s ‘silver river.’ The Footprint Forum 2006 - The 442-page-work, published Learn Share Connect, was spon- last week by Edizioni Aida, starts sored by the University of Siena, with the city’s efforts to protect the its Province, the Municipality of historical centre and ends with an Colle Val d’Elsa and the Italian in-depth study of mannerist artist Naval Commission. Our current Federico Zuccai, painter of L’Arno annual demand for resources a Firenze, currently hosted at the exceeds the earth’s regenera- Louvre. tive capacity by 23%. Whilst amed throughout the world The Florentine popular con- Europe accounts for only 7% of for its gently rolling hills, many sciousness easily returns to that the world’s total population, it Fpeople forget that the region fateful November day in 1966 when uses 17% of its resources. The of Tuscany is also well-known for the Arno and its numerous tributar- he fashion world isn’t suffering Sienese conference presented its rivers and streams. Its waterways ies proved incapable of supporting from an economic crisis,’ says a in-depth study of Ecologi- ‘T stretch 22,575 square kilometres the ebb and fl ow of nature’s unstop- Florentine designer Roberto Cavalli, cal Footprints and Biocapacity throughout an area that boasts no pable power. Exactly who or what ‘it’s suffering from a creativity crisis. Accounts, a widely used tool in less than 273 large and small streams contributed to the magnitude of I’d like us to stop being inspired by international policy-making which and 13 bays. The Tuscan streams, nature’s wrath? Experts often cite the fashions of the ‘40s, ‘60s and measures how much land and beautiful as they may be, prove par- the public administration’s inability ‘70s. It would be wonderful to fi nally water area a population requires ticularly prone to low periods dur- to provide appropriate river main- say that the fashion of the third mil- to produce the resources it con- ing the summer season and sudden tenance. They also blame the inef- lennium has invented something sumes and to absorb its wastes. destructive high tides during autumn fi ciency of hydraulic consortiums, new.’ And yet—new ideas for fashion and winter months. This natural ten- unprecedented deforestation, and often sprout up in old places. Art without borders dency has earned Tuscany unfortu- the presence of an excessive num- Ponte Vecchio recently served as International art lovers shouldn’t nate notoriety for its frequent fl oods. ber of dredges. Evaluating the sta- centre stage for one of Pitti Uomo’s miss the Art exhibition “Art With- In terms of fl ood-related disasters, bility of the Arno basin continues most awaited events. Roberto out Borders” on display until Tuscany places third in the Italian to be of primary interest, as critics Cavalli’s extraordinary show saw June 30 at the California State context with a total of 656 fl oods argue that the hydraulic character- Naomi Campbell in white and Afef Center in via Leopardi 12. The plaguing regional history. The tem- istics of the river have remained in black, as the two ladies opened exhibit is the celebratory cul- peramental nature of the Po River virtually unaltered since 1966. All the gates of the evening’s elegance. mination of the University’s has earned Piemonte a record high eyes turn to the authorities of the Five haute gowns a-piece for each Summer Arts Program held in 844 fl oods, while the Veneto region Arno River Basin, who admit that top-model, who led the proces- Florence this June, attended by claims second place with 767 fl ood- many more years and a lot more sion of more than 40 pieces from American and Italian students related emergencies. money will be necessary before Cavalli’s menswear collection. ‘This from the Fine Arts Academy of Giovanni Menduni, General Sec- implementation of the river main- bridge profoundly infl uenced the Florence. The program, coordi- retary of the Authorities of the Bac- tenance plan approved in 1999. Its show,’ said Cavalli regarding the nated by prominent American ino since 2000 and author of over main goal is to guarantee the secu- collection’s originality. ‘I have always fi gurative artist Domenic Cre- 200 publications, has recently pub- rity of at least 1,200 square meters remained a true Florentine and con- tara, and included guest artists lished a new Dizionario dell’Arno, of the basin and the small and large tinue to love this city deeply. To be of international prestige such as an all-encompassing study that river-side towns that are still con- honest, when they told me that we Marsha Steinberg. For further spans over 40 years of history since sidered at risk. would be able to hold the show information contact: www.csu- here, I felt a bit intimidated. I could summerarts.org. imagine the men of the past looking down at me from the windows of Let the sales begin the Vasari Corridor, and as a result, It’s almost ‘hunting’ season. Up I re-created the entire collection. My and down the boot, shoppers are Gas guzzlers goal was to make it more sombre starting to scout out bargains at and less showy, but also to achieve mid-summer sales. Nationwide Local service stations suspected of fraud a level of authenticity and masculin- sales season generally trans- cars actually receive. For a 50- ity. I wanted to make the line less lates into a 40% markdown off to-60-litre tank, this means that colourful. Usually if you put mono- the original price in clothing on average drivers get half a litre chromatic fabrics into my hands I stores across the country. Each less than what shows up on the don’t know what to do with them, town designates the day that the distributor’s register. The ser- but I recognize that men often do sales begin. Milano and Turin vice stations caught ‘cheating’ prefer darker shades.’ start their sales on July 1. July 7 have been issued a ‘readjust- Florence’s most famous bridge is the big day for Genova, Bolo- ment’ order and must pay for served as a worthy muse for the styl- gna and Bari. Romans will hit the ocal tax police visited 30 a mandatory revision of their ist, who admits, ‘I bowed down to shops on July 8. Local shoppers petrol stations in the Flo- service station and the certi- Ponte Vecchio, making sure music will have to wait another two rentine area and came fi cation of properly function- wasn’t too loud, or the show’s fl air weeks for tempting price tags. L away with disappointing news. ing equipment, before they will too extravagant. The bridge’s beauty Florence, along with Venice, Their objective? To verify that be allowed to serve the public and Florence were enough.’ Against has scheduled the start of sales the quantity of petrol paid for by again. The Union of Petrol Sta- a striking background, dandy men season for July 15. According to motorists actually corresponds tion Workers argues that the tax in black jackets and trousers wore Italian law, during this six to eight to what ends up in the tank. Of police only visited 5 percent of dusty rose and violet collar shirts. week period, all clothes dis- the service stations monitored, service stations in and around A fl ash of extra colour came from played need a tag with original only 3 achieved ‘up to par sta- Florence. They affi rm that, over- scarves draped around their shoul- and reduced prices and percent tus.’ According to said investi- all, the system is quite regulated ders or knotted like ties. New deer- of discount being applied. gation, in 85 percent of Floren- and foresees yearly revisions skin moccasins and patent leather tine gas stations consumers risk that should insure that all gas shoes made for a perfect strut along paying for more gas than their pumps are working effi ciently. the city’s most beautiful bridge. 5 www.thefl orentine.net News Thursday 29 June 2006 Florence NEWS

both in terms of organization and logistics,’ Siliani admits. ‘The STREET ARTISTS Fort with Forte Belvedere is certainly one of the most striking places in the SCRUTINIZED world, if not the most beautiful, a view but it’s hard to manage and its City commission insures maintenance is quite expensive. Belvedere opens its The City Council has made huge painters are up to snuff efforts recently to give this place gates to summer back to the Florentines.’ From June 15 to Sep 18, the When it comes to outdoor second fl oor of the fort’s palace entertainment, the fort is cer- will host an exhibit, showing here’s nothing like a bird’s tainly the place to be. On June 241 works from Alberto della eye view of Florence at 29, audiences will gather for a Ragione’s private collection, Tdusk in one of the city’s taste of tragedy with ‘Oedipus donated to the City of Flor- best-loved summer-time spots. the King,’ while ‘Romeo and ence in 1969. This series of From now until August 31, the Juliet’ will repeatedly declare prestigious paintings and sculp- Forte Belvedere will keep its their star-crossed love in per- tures showcases the develop- gates wide open from midday formances on July 12, 14, 15 ment of 20thcentury Italian art. to 2am and become stage to a and 19. Giorgio Mancini has Two additional collections will whole series of summer shows. choreographed the play to the be displayed alongside della The ‘Forte Davvero’ calendar music of Sergej Prokof’ev. On Ragione’s masterpieces, namely lorence welcomes them in hoards—artists and boasts an original series of live July 22 and 24, music-lovers those of Filippo de Pisis and Fartisans, both local and foreign, to whom this music and dance performances, can listen to scores by com- Ottone Rosai. city represents their eternal muse of creativity. alternative cinema, theatre and poser John Adams in ‘Chair- Until Aug 31, fort-goers can But among the summertime crowds that come exhibitions. man Dances’ and ‘Words No take advantage of a special to feast on cultural treats, is there still room in the During last week’s inaugura- Longer Heard,’ choreographed shuttle service that will pro- vias and piazzas for these street painters? Per- tion, Cultural Councillor Sim- by Lucinda Childs and Giorgio vide transportation every fi f- haps. But only the most talented, please. one Siliani addressed the chal- Mancini respectively. And every teen minutes from 8pm to mid- In a totally new beauty-based initiative, Pala- lenges of organizing an event night during the entire month of night. Shuttles depart from the zzo Vecchio has decided to give a city-spon- series of such magnitude. ‘We’ve August, cinema buffs can enjoy delle Murate car park on Viale sored exam to the painters and portrait artists gone through some hard times free ‘cinema Atelier.’ Giovine Italia. who populate Piazza Duomo and the entire his- torical centre. From now on, anyone who wishes to show their works on the turf supplied by the City will have to be scrutinized and approved by a city council committee intent on evaluating the ‘Just say no’ to alcohol to-go originality and genuine quality of the paintings displayed. In efforts to support emerging talent, New law pressures San Lorenzo to shape up the City of Florence has also decided to make 10 ou can enjoy any brawls in the area. Mar- the area. These 15 new alternative resources percent of the street-vending spaces available drink you please, tino’s stance has been offi cers will strengthen to support the urban to artists under 26 years old, those who have as long as you gladly received by San the 56-man squad that guards. To me, it seems recently graduated from local art institutes. These Y young artists will be judged by a commission of order and consume it Lorenzo’s citizens, who, already works in the right that even people on the premises at one in recent months, have San Lorenzo neigh- who come as visitors three art experts specialized in painting, graphic of San Lorenzo’s neigh- repeatedly voiced pleas bourhood on any given from out of town con- arts and photo and computer design and layout. bourhood bars and for the city to ‘clean up day. The city of Florence tribute to supporting One hundred forty coveted spots dot the pubs. In an ‘urgent ordi- the neighbourhood.’ currently pays 1 million safety in the city. I pro- historical centre: seven can be found on the nance’ issued by prefect Police support is euro per year for city- pose that part of the Ponte Vecchio and 30 slices of space line Piazza Andrea De Martino, it being sent by Italy’s wide urban police ser- money needed for pub- Duomo. Twenty places are located in Piazza Pitti, is now illegal for pubs national headquarters in vices. lic security come from 18 in Santa Croce, 10 spots grace Piazzale to sell alcohol bever- Rome to counteract the Mayor Domenici has external sources.’ The Michelangelo and Piazza della Repubblica, while ages to- go from 10pm micro criminality, illegal taken advantage of the talk goes back to the so- up to 30 art-corners crowd Piazzale degli Uffi zi. to closing time. This commerce and random San Lorenzo debate to called tourist tax, known The lucky artists who earn city-approved space city initiative, in effect acts of violence that pose some serious ques- as the ‘contributo di are obligated to display a sign with their logo, until the end of July, was have begun exasperat- tions to city administra- scopo,’ which would be licence and concession expiration date. Threat of prompted by increasing ing both residents and tors. ‘We have to realize used to maintain, clean license revocation looms over artists who display occurrences of drunken merchants throughout that we need to fi nd and safeguard the city. their works without exhibiting these mandatory details.

CAN EUTHANASIA COME OUT OF THE CLOSET? Florentine doctors plead for parliamentary support

lorentine doctors are taking level,’ says Giulia Simi, Vice Secretary ing personal freedoms throughout Faction against clandestine eutha- of the Luca Coscioni Association. the world, and Italy has proven to nasia. Antonio Panti, president of the ‘Reliable statistics would allow us to be no exception. Supporters of the Order of Florentine Physicians, has inform citizens and spark a serious local petition found a government- joined forces with 30 local doctors in and in-depth debate on clandestine sponsored research model in stud- support of a petition promoted by the euthanasia, a problem that has often ies carried out in Holland in 1990. Luca Cosioni Association for Free- been denounced by Health Minister Results showed the widespread use dom of Scientifi c Research. These Umberto Veronesi,’ Simi continues. of illegal euthanasia by both doctors physicians have requested that the Availability of life-saving medi- and relatives. Local petitioners affi rm Italian government and parliament cal treatment has allowed patients that the political debate which arose carry out in-depth research regard- to live longer in what many people from this data proved instrumental ing the phenomenon of clandestine consider ‘unacceptable conditions.’ in the development of much-needed euthanasia in Italy. ‘We urgently need This phenomenon has given rise to regulatory norms regarding the phe- to gather reliable data on a national ethical issues and debates regard- nomenon. 6 Thursday 29 June 2006 News www.thefl orentine.net National NEWS

News in BRIEF PRINCE Mafi a crackdown in Sicily Right-left tug-of-war Italian police arrested 45 people OF VICE in an anti-Mafi a raid last week, Constitutional reform becomes Son of last including top bosses who had allegedly been in touch with Ber- battleground for political showdown Italian king nardo Provenzano, the reputed arrested top boss apprehended earlier this n a boost for Premier Romano Some members of the centre left year. The operation involved 500 Prodi, Italians on Monday had feared high turnout in the north, police offi cers and dismantled the rince Vittorio Emanuele of rejected sweeping constitutional where 60.35% of those eligible voted top tiers of Palermo syndicates. I PSavoy was jailed last week Suspects have been charged with and devolutionary reforms drawn compared to 42.6% in the south, in the southern city of Potenza Mafi a association and extortion. up by the government of his pre- could swing the vote in Berlusco- in connection with a prostitution Piero Grasso, national anti-Mafi a decessor, Silvio Berlus- ni’s favour because of and corruption probe, and was prosecutor, said that wiretapped coni. The fi nal vote tally the devolutionary aspect. questioned by investigating mag- conversations among top mob- showed that 61.7% were The reforms would have istrates last Tuesday. The 69-year- sters gave a very clear picture of against the reforms, which devolved greater powers old prince’s lawyer, Lodovico Iso- the Sicilian Mafi a. would have strengthened to Italy’s regions in the labella, told reporters afterwards the powers of the premier areas of health, educa- that he was ‘very satisfi ed’ with Desperate measures to and introduced greater tion and local policing. the way the questioning went. clear calcio’s conscience autonomy for Italy’s 20 These amendments were The prince, the son of Italy’s last Italians Sports Minister Giovanna regions. The ‘no’ vote key conditions set by the king, was arrested along with 12 Melandri said Friday that Ital- won in all regions except small federalist Northern other suspects and is accused of ian soccer’s rulebook must be the northern, centre-right League for maintaining its recruiting prostitutes from East- overhauled if the scandal-rav- strongholds of Lombardy and the support for Berlusconi’s government ern Europe for a casino in Cam- aged game is to regain credibil- Veneto. Turnout in the referendum and appealed to many voters in the pione d’Italia, an Italian enclave ity. Melandri said she will start a was unexpectedly high at 53.6%, more affl uent regions of the north. in Switzerland. Vittorio Emanuele series of talks next month with fi g- with more people voting in the north The reforms would transformed the is also accused of corruption in ures from the sports world to dis- than in the south. Senate into a federal rather than connection with the obtaining of cuss what rule changes should be Prodi and his nine-party coalition legislative body. They also would licences and supply contracts for made. The minister was speaking had urged Italians to throw out the have increased the powers of the rigged gambling machines pro- at the presentation of a report by amendments approved by Berlusco- premier, making the head of govern- cured by Sicilian businessman the Independent European Sports ni’s government in November 2005. ment a directly elected fi gure with Rocco Migliardi. Review, which addresses a num- Since the amendments did not gain the power to hire and fi re ministers, ber of soccer-related issues. The The prince, who initially denied the two-thirds support in parliament propose that parliament be dissolved Review, set up by the British pres- all wrongdoing, was accused of idency of the EU last year, pro- needed for legislation affecting the and call elections. using his high-level contacts to poses a series of measures which 1948 Constitution, they could not The government was staunchly help sell the video poker games include the foundation of a Euro- have been implemented unless Ital- opposed to the overhaul, arguing to the Campione Casino and pean Agency for Sport and a new ians approved them. Prodi expressed that Italy’s underdeveloped south- countries including Libya. Pros- Europe-wide tax on sports betting. his satisfaction on Monday, stress- ern regions would be penalised by ecutors also suspect him of links Measures would also establish ing that cross-party consensus was the devolutionist part. It also said with Mafi a clans. Migliardi was more robust checks over transfer required for such important reforms. the other measures would have cre- also arrested on Friday together dealings and initiatives to divert ‘It is now our duty to open dialogue ated a too-powerful premier-ship, with the prince’s secretary, and more of the money generated by with all political parties and discuss weakened parliament and risked Venetian businessman Ugo the Champions League to grass- together the adjustments that should lengthening legislative procedures Bonazza. Six other suspects roots soccer. be made to the Constitution,’ said by creating confl icts between the were placed under house arrest, the centre-left leader. chambers of parliament.�� including Salvatore Sottile, the Smog: Italy’s greatest spokesman of former foreign min- serial killer ister Gianfranco Fini who heads Smog, dust particles and ozone the rightist National Alliance (AN) kill nearly 9,000 Italians a year, party. according to a study published Indecent proposals The prince’s son, Emanuele last week by the World Health Filiberto of Savoy, repeatedly pro- Organization. The report, commis- Sex scandals stain Italian public television tested against his father’s arrest. sioned by Italy’s Environmental He has accused the prosecutor Protection Agency, looked at 13 taly’s public television station RAI certing,’ the investigative magistrate in charge of the case, Henry John Italian cities and found that air pol- has launched an internal investi- in Potenza wrote. Woodcock, of seeking publicity. lution is playing an increasingly I gation into charges it helped a pow- Sottile is suspected of being part alarming role in the development The Neapolitan prosecutor has a of a wide variety of diseases. Air erful political fi gure reward young of the Prince’s alleged criminal net- reputation for launching high-pro- pollutant levels were over the EU women with broadcast appearances work. Several Italian newspapers fi le cases, not all of which, how- safety limits at least 35 days last in exchange for sexual favours, an published transcripts Monday of ever, have resulted in trials. On Fri- year in most of the cities looked Italian daily reported Monday. ‘We wiretapped conversations in which day, last week, Vittorio Emanuele at. ‘Only six of Italy’s 20 regions cannot put our head in the sand. We Sottile discusses with the RAI fi nally admitted to being guilty of have produced a required plan on will talk about it in our board meet- executive – sometimes in a sexually taking bribes and being involved air quality and only two of these ing,’ RAI President Claudio Petruc- explicit and scabrous manner –the in various levels of ‘exploitation.’ have been approved by the EU so cioli told the daily Repubblica. women he is proposing for roles in He was granted house-arrest in far,’ said Italy’s new environmental The accusation that Salvatore broadcasts. ‘This story is really sor- a 200 square meter fl at in Rome, minister Alfonso Scanio. Sottile, spokesman for right-wing did, but at least it might serve as a as he awaits trial. politician Gianfranco Fini, enjoined trigger for an overhaul of entertain- Italy’s former royal family was the station’s vice director of human ment programming on Italian public banished in 1946 following a resources to give the women air television,’ the secretary of the Usig- national referendum establishing time surfaced in a prosecutor’s state- rai Labour Union at RAI said. the Republic, their name tainted ment which led to last week’s arrest The presence of scantily-clad by links of Emanuele’s grandfa- of Prince Vittorio Emanuele. ‘The models on a wide variety of Italian ther, Vittorio Emanuele III, with means by which Salvatore Sottile programs, including game and talk Fascism.�The male members of ������������������� took advantage of his position to shows, and musical variety programs, the Savoy family were subse- obtain sexual favours from young provokes frequent debate in Italy, quently banned from entering women...while holding out the pros- and was criticized in 2005 by the Italy by the 1948 Constitution. In pect of securing them roles or par- United Nations special committee November 2002, the Italian par- ������������������ ticipation in RAI programs is discon- on discrimination against women. liament lifted the ban.� 7 www.thefl orentine.net Sports Thursday 29 June 2006 Sports NEWS

Formula 1: Cycling: LEMOND ACCUSES, off the Finn’s attempt to pass him on the 12th lap. Raikkonen had a hor- ‘Lance threatened me’ Alonso slams fourth straight rible day in the pits, having trouble n an interview with French sports on a tire change during his fi rst Idaily L’Equipe, three-time Tour stop and stalling his McLaren on de France winner Greg LeMond win in Canadian GP another, preventing him from chal- has claimed Lance Armstrong lenging Alonso again. He was then threatened him after criticising his previous four races, including last passed by Schumacher with one lap involvement with a doctor linked with a drugs scandal. LeMond, who year when he crashed while lead- to go. But Schumacher also had a in 1986 became the fi rst American ing. This time, his only problem rough day and never tested Alonso. to win the Tour de France, stated was staying focused despite leading He drove his Ferrari off course once, ‘he (Armstrong) threatened my wife, by almost 25 seconds in the closing brushed the wall and cut across my business, my life.’ LeMond had laps. The reigning world champion the curve on the fi nal turn several previously tried to steer Armstrong stretched his lead to 25 points over times to take him out of contention. clear of working with Italian doc- Schumacher, who passed Kimi Rai- Even though he won the pole—his tor Michele Ferrari who was at the kkonen with one lap to go to fi nish fi fth in a row—he expected a chal- centre of a drugs scandal in 2004, second. Raikkonen wound up third. lenge from Schumacher and Ferrari and who LeMond now considers to They now head to Indianapolis for team-mate Felipe Massa for the vic- have been proven to have been ‘a his was the race during which the United States Grand Prix, which tory. Giancarlo Fisichella, Alonso’s negative infl uence on cycling.’ The Michael Schumacher was sup- Schumacher won last season after team-mate at Renault, was fourth American, who turned 45 last week, Tposed to close the gap on Fer- Alonso and 13 other drivers boy- and Massa was fi fth. Jarno Trulli also hit out at the current state of nando Alonso in the chase for the cotted because of concern over tire scored his fi rst points of the season cycling, saying that the problem of Formula 1 championship. After all, safety. But Alonso has struggled dur- with a sixth-place fi nish for Toyota. doping in cycling goes far beyond Schumacher has won the Canadian ing F1’s North American swing but Nick Heidfeld was seventh for Wil- just Lance Armstrong. Grand Prix seven times. Alonso has hopes for better results next week. liams and David Coulthard came in never had anything but trouble at Schumacher, the seven-time eighth after starting last because he the Circuit Gilles Villeneueve. None world champion, has been hesitant changed his engine before the race. Sailing: of that mattered Sunday—Alonso to put too much importance on this Jenson Button was eighth in a Honda drove his Renault to an easy vic- two-race stretch in regards to the and American Scott Speed was 10th. FINAL COUNTDOWN tory for his fourth consecutive win. overall title. That didn’t change even Jacques Villeneuve fi nished 16th on IN VALENCIA The Spaniard has six victories this after Alonso picked up another two the track named for his late father. t’s the penultimate dress rehearsal season and 15 straight top-three points. Alonso, who started from the He was heading to at least seventh Ibefore the fi nal showdown for the fi nishes. Alonso had failed to fi n- pole, had only a brief challenge from place when he crashed into the wall America’s Cup in 2007 as Act XII of ish the Canadian GP in three of his Raikkonen early in the race but held with 11 laps to go. the Louis-Vuitton Cup gets under- way in Valencia on Friday. Alinghi, sailing in its port of call for its title Series A defence next year, will have one last Breaching Article 6 is considered look at its 11 challengers. Kicking more serious as the law refers to ille- off in Marseilles in 2004, the 32nd Fear for the Fiorentina gal activities in sports. In addition edition of the world’s oldest continu- to penalties, infringement includes ing sporting event has for the fi rst Anxious fans await sports trail verdict demotion to lowest ranking posi- time played out over four years with tion or to a lower class series. The only an Act XIII to follow next April s the nation gathers around maxi- with an offi cial document issued by Violet football club is being accused before the Louis-Vuitton one year Ascreens in piazzas and parks all the FICG (Italian Football Game of unfair play in fi ve games: Lazio- from now, followed by the America’s over the country, local soccer fans Federation) Commissioner, Giudo Fiorentina, Bologna-Fiorentina, Cup where the challenger will take continue to wait with baited breath Rossi. Chievo-Fiorentina, Fiorentina-Ata- on the Swiss boat. Some, like BMW even after the national matches are Rossi confi rmed that 30 parties lanta, and Lecce-Parma. Prosecu- Oracle (USA), Luna Rossa (ITA), over. While Italy is out rooting for have been found guilty of violat- tor Palazzi also disqualifi ed Diego Shosholoza (AFS) or Emirates Team the national ‘Blue team,’ Florentines ing Articles 1 and 6 of the Code of and Andrea della Valle and delegate New Zealand (NZL) already have are busy worrying about their own Sports Justice. Juventus, Lazio, and administrator of the Fiorentina, new boats. For others, like Alinghi and Mascalzone Latino, it’s still too local colour. Recent scandals in the Milan have been mentioned for Sandro Mencucci. Fans fear their early to unveil their new model. Even football world have made the Violet similar violations. Infringement of team may be forced down to Series though SUI 91 was christened last team’s future uncertain. Last week, Article 1 refers to fairness within B. The verdict will be issued as the month, Ernesto Bertarelli prefers federal prosecutor Palazzi disquali- the match, and sanctions range from result of a month-long sports trial, to continue sailing on SUI 75 with fi ed the Fiorentina in accordance penalty points to trophy revocation. scheduled to end on July 20. Peter Holmberg at the helm.

Photograph Florence..and Fly to SARDEGNA!!

Send your photo to info@thefl orentine.net Each week Ryanair will be offering two round trip tickets Pisa-Alghero (Sardinia), which will be awarded to the photographer of the “Pic of the Week”.

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author: Eugenia Solopova title: Piazza Duomo’s life 8 Thursday 29 June 2006 www.thefl orentine.net Movie REVIEWS

Movies in English showing in Florence Weeks June 29- July 13 2006 by James Douglas

Thursday June 29 Monday July 10 Monday July 3 Thursday July 6 ODEON THEATRE ODEON THEATRE ODEON THEATRE

THE DA VINCI CODE X-MEN: THE LAST STAND THE LAKE HOUSE Tom Hanks as cryptologist Robert If you’re differ- Langdon is on auto-pilot and does ent from the little to sustain interest. Audrey rest of humanity, Tautou as his bland investigative you’re marginal- side-kick, Sophie, trails along, ised, oppressed, speaking zombie English and pro- despised, but you’re also spe- viding ornament in the place of the cial, and if somebody came up with love interest the story lacks. Only a cure for your condition, would you the dry wit and underplayed vil- take it? This is the premise of the lainy of Ian McKellen as Sir Leigh, third in the X-Men trilogy, X-Men: and Paul Bettany’s stunningly The Last Stand, entrusted to Brett demented menacing mad monk Ratner (Bryan Singer having jumped Time travel and dangling conversations (rather too often about archi- Silas save Ron Howard’s movie ship for the new Superman movie). tecture) characterise Alejandro Agresti’s The Lake House, a remake The Da Vinci Code from the The cast, however remains intact, of Korean director Hyun-seung Lee’s Siworae (2000), with Sandra Bul- pedestrian and the mundane. Dan with the addition of Kelsey Grammer lock as the doctor and Keanu Reeves as the architect. In time zones two Brown’s novel, based on a dodgy as The Beast caught in the crossfi re years apart, the middle-aged professional loners conduct their romance as Professor Charles Xavier (‘the premise and a determination to in voice-over readings of letters never sent or yet to be sent. Or some- socialist’) and Magneto (‘the Darwin- scandalise believers with vaguely ist’) go head to head in this action- thing plausible mumbo-jumbo, at least packed allegorical fantasy that has had the pace and verve of a sen- more than a little to say about cur- sible thriller. The movie is slack, rent global political initiatives and the Tuesday July 11 Thursday July 13 plodding and mediocre. Everyone state of human affairs. And there’s on the planet will see it. Wolverine to relish too… ODEON THEATRE ODEON THEATRE

UNITED 93 RV: RUNAWAY VACATION Tuesday July 4 Summer family fun with Robin Wil- ODEON THEATRE liams and co. in Barry Sonnenfeld’s RV. Depending where you are, this can stand for recreational vehi- ROMANCE & CIGARETTES cle or runaway vacation or both. Dysfunctional non-campers are John Turturro’s ‘savage musical’ On September 11, 2001 United Romance & Cigarettes puts 93 was the fourth plane hijacked, taken on a camping trip, have lots New York working man Nick Mur- and the one intended to wreak of cheesy adventures, gross out der (James Gandolfi ni) into a classic havoc on the Capitol. Paul Green- with fountains of excrement, injudi- love triangle with long-suffering wife grass’s fi lm United 93 perhaps cious immersions in the wild, and Kitty (Susan Sarandon) and saucy surprisingly manages to deal effec- side-splitting vehicle runaway situ- seductress Tula (Kate Winslet). With tively, sensitively and thrillingly with ations. Rated PG in US and UK for the horrors of that day, the mutiny the addition of song and dance rou- crude language and innuendo. Will of the passengers and the struggle tines that derive from the scraps and a Robin Williams vehicle ever again to avert death and destruction on be a runaway success? leftovers of the music that plays in an almost unimagined scale. With the soundtracks of our lives, a period a documentary truthfulness, helped New York setting and the freedom to by its real time frame, the movie indulge in a crudity of language denied to fi lmmakers of the time, Tur- has an authentic feel and is a timely turro’s third fi lm as director (he also wrote it) aims for a sophisticated and sobering reminder of 9/11, the audience. It had a mixed reaction at Cannes, variously seen as muddled, kind of movie that does Hollywood vulgar, experimental, edgy, soapy and not quite successful. proud, despite (or because of) its long tradition of ‘gratuitous’ disas- ter epics that never quite ring true. 9 www.thefl orentine.net What’s on & Where to Go Thursday 29 June 2006

Events in FLORENCE JUN 30 TO JUL 13

mbership card necessary Katia Beni FRIDAY 30 Cabaret Piazzale Michelangelo, www.comune.fi .it, OUR TOP PICKS n COURSES info 055-27681, 22.32 Intensive summer courses in Painting t t t and Drawing The California State Summer Arts Program, SUNDAY 2 California State Center on via G. Leopardi THE MEDICI MONTH - All of July The Medici Month, currently in its fourth year, has become one of the most popular events of the 12 n DANCE summer and combines art history, and entertainment. It includes a packed cultural calendar that Magic Steps by Lisa Parra and Fabio reveals the history of Florence through anecdotes of the Medici family during their three centuries n DANCE Prudetti of Florentine rule. The Medici Month remembers both well-known and more mysterious Medici, Schiavi Recital of the Scuole di danza Fiorentine casting them as characters in original theatre plays. These fresh and exciting theatrical events fi nd Motus Danza, www.chille.it Rampe di Piazza Poggi , San Niccolò, info their natural stage throughout the city in the churches, gardens, and palace halls that were created Area San Salvi, Via S. Salvi 12, info 349-2384360,, 22.00 or loved by the Medici family. In addition to theatre, the Medici Month includes guided visits and 055.6236195, 21.00, € 5,00 conferences hosted by important Florentine personalities which allow afi cionados to get to know n MUSIC & CONCERTS the history, lifestyles and art that have made this family essential to the Florentine identity. For info n GUIDED TOURS Michela Lombardi Quintet and a full calendar of events: www.mesemediceo.it Recently restored frescoes by Dome- Vivere Jazz Festival nico del Ghirlandaio in the Sassetti See July 1, 6.30 pm INDEPENDENCE DAY - July 1 Cappella Bollani, Bodilsen, Lund Trio Independence Day is arriving early this year at the Parco di Villa Demidoff in Pratolino, Tour by Akropolis cultural association Vivere Jazz Festival an event which celebrates the anniversary of the Declaration of Independence of the USA Chiesa di Santa Trinita, p.za Santa Trinita, See July 1, 9 pm info 055-461428, 16.00 signed in 1776. A great place for family and friends to gather for barbecue and baseball Dado Moroni Quartet games, live music performances and relay races. Organizers include the Tuscan American Welcome to Art Vivere Jazz Festival Association, the Tuscan-American league, various American universities hosted in Florence Meetings in the evening twice a week for Nuova arena Cave di Maiano, See July 1, and several of the city’s Regional and Provincial offi ces. For more information write to: strangers living in Florence 11.30 pm july4fi [email protected] Until June 30 MUDI Museo degli In- nocenti, piazza SS. Annunziata 12, tel. n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES OLTRARNO STREET FESTIVAL - June 28 - July 29 0552037308 Trotting race This neighbourhood music festival presents a series of live music concerts and various artistic n MUSIC & CONCERTS Ippodromo Le Mulina, tel. 0554226076, performances from June 28 to July 28. The festival takes place in the heart of the city in Piazza www.ippocity.com della Passera, one of the most colourful neighbourhood piazzas in Florence, situated just steps Quartetto Perseo from Palazzo Pitti and Via Maggio. Shows start at 9:30 pm and cover the entire musical spectrum Opera Festival 2006 n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) from jazz and Latin jazz, to Brazilian tunes, rock, pop blues and funky sounds. Piazza-goers can Giardino di Boboli, p.za Pitti, www.festiva- also appreciate New York jazz and Samba jazz with legendary pianist Blue Note, composer of the Il Mercante di Venezia lopera.it, info 055-5979005, 21:00 sale at Shakespeare, Archètipo Company soundtrack from the celebrated series ‘Sex and the City.’ From July 3 to 18 audiences can enjoy Box Offi ce the ironic theatre of Florentine actress Roberta Di Bartolome who will be presenting two comedy See July 1 monologues throughout the month. The area’s shops, cafés, and restaurants will prolong their Festival Amadeus opening hours during the music festival. For more information call: 055 2645356 Orchestra of the Amsterdam University Camerata Choir and Liberatore Choir mu- MONDAY 3 OPERA FESTIVAL 2006 - From June to August sic by Mozart This summer the magnifi cent Boboli Garden and the beautiful Medici Villa of Cafaggiolo in Chiesa di S. Stefano al Ponte Vecchio info n CINEMA Barberino di Mugullo will be hosts to some of the most celebrated operas in the world. G. Bizet’s 055597026 X MEN: The Last Stand Carmen and La Traviata by Giuseppe Verdi will be performed on outdoor stages complete with Quartetto Perseo Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel. striking and innovative set designs. The Opera Festival also includes a series of symphonic concerts Opera Festival 2006 055.214068, www.cinehall.it, Shows 6.00- including music by C. Orff, Carmina Burana and The Four Seasons masterpiece by Vivaldi. For Giardino di Boboli, p.za Pitti, Grotta del 8.15-10.30 pm more information see www.festivalopera.it or call 055-5979005/ 210804 Buontalenti, www.festivalopera.it, info 055- Brian of Nazareth by Monty Python 5979005 / 210804, Box Offi ce for tick- Cineteca di Firenze via reginaldo giuliani VINTAGE SELECTION - July 5-8 ets,21.00 357, info 055,450749, 21,45, 5€ From July 6-9, during the Pitti Filati Exhibition, Stazione Leopolda’s Spazio Alcatraz will Mens Sana Trio host the Summer edition of Vintage Selection. This trade-fair is dedicated to vintage fashion, Caruso Jazz Café, via Lambertesca, n EXHIBITS accessories and vintage furniture. 25 of the most important Italian and foreigner fashion 14/16r, www.carusojazzcafe.com, info 055- Contrappunto designers will display their best creations during this 3-day post-modern exhibit. From 10 in 281940, 21.30 Painting exhibition by Lisa Wade the morning till 11 at night, collectors and fashion-obsessed shoppers will be able to search See Ongoing for strange dresses, eccentric shoes, bags, belts, hats, trinkets, military uniforms, jeans and n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) sportswear. The clothes have been collected primarily between the 30’s and the 80’s and all La Mandragola Machiavellica 2006 n MUSIC & CONCERTS coming from used or dead-stocks. Brands on display include Chanel, Pierre Cardin, Emilio Museo Nazionale del Bargello, Via del Pro- Carla Bley Pucci, Roberta di Camerino, Christian Dior, Balenciaga, and Gucci. The exhibition also consolo, 4, info 333-2284784,ticket €15 Vivere Jazz Festival includes a fun section called ‘Vintage Kids’ which showcases the history of kids’ fashions on sale 1hour bifore the show, 21.15 See July 1, 9.15 pm during the 60’s and 70’s. For more information see: www.stazione-leopolda.com Lucio Caizzi Szymanowski Quartet MERCANTIA - Certaldo, July 11-16 Cabaret Classical music Mercantia, is a Medieval theatre festival and market, celebrated in Certaldo, that has become Piazzale Michelangelo, www.comune.fi .it, Badia Fiesolana, Via dei Roccettini 9 ,S. one of the most symbolic cultural festivals in Tuscany. Famous for its originality and unique info 055-27681, 22.33 Domenico, Fiesole, info 055-401115 www. form, the festival was started in 1988 by the City of Certaldo. For fi ve nights every July, nuovieventimusicali.it, free, 21.00 the streets and squares of this Medieval Village come alive with the magic of the ‘Teatro da Quattro Soldi’. Jugglers, clowns, puppeteers and acrobats join fi re-eaters, fakirs, magicians SATURDAY 1 n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) and musicians for an unmatchable theatrical extravaganza. Groups of artists come from Patty Diphusa, Comedy dialogues by every part of Italy and abroad to participate in this unforgettable ‘uninterrupted street show.’ n GUIDED TOURS Pedro Almodovar For more information visit: www.mercantiacertaldo.it Ancient Walls of Florence, The Medici Oltrarno Street Festival Month piazza della Passera, info 055-2645356, SUMMER NIGHTS - From June to September Visit to wall fortifi cation designed by Mi- 21.30 Enjoy numerous events sponsored by the City Council and various neighbourhood districts. chelangelo. Tour led by Cristina Porciani Villa Fabbricotti Summer 2006 Every night in piazzas, palaces and gardens throughout Florence, city-dwellers can chose www.mesemediceo.it, info 055-6120205, Theatre shows between theatre, dance, music, art and culture. Check the Ongoing ‘Summer Nights’ section See ongoing for news on different events. Those inspired to treat themselves to an evening away can also n MARKETS & FESTIVALS fi nd a ‘Summer Nights’ section in the Out of Town events column. Riso olimpico Independence Day 2006. Picnic organized See ongoing at Villa Fabbricotti Estate by the Tuscan American Association 2006 This is a really nice, well-attended event. It is a wonderful chance to meet people, catch up with people you haven’t seen in a TUESDAY 4 while, and enjoy a beautiful venue 40th Anniversary Villa Demidoff (Via Bolognese; take bus 25A & get out at Pratolino) from 5 p.m. on- n CINEMA ward. €5.00 cover charge includes food, Romance & Cigarettes of Florence Flood drink (barbeque & beer are extra), sports & Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel. music; children under 12 get in free. 055.214068, www.cinehall.it, Shows 6.00- 8.15-10.30 pm Do you have a story to tell about the Flood of 1966? n MUSIC & CONCERTS

Egberto Gismonti n GUIDED TOURS Were you a mud angel or do you know one? Vivere Jazz Festival Discovering Ancient Cafaggio Teatro Romano, via Portigiani 1, Fiesole, Tour by Akropolis cultural association, Arch Do you have photos of those days in Florence? Box Offi ce, toll free 800 414240, 21.15 Lara Mercanti meeting point in piazza SS. Annunziata front Mens Sana Trio of the church, 17,30 info 055.461428 Th e Florentine is preparing a special edition See June 30 n MUSIC & CONCERTS n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) for the Flood’s 40th anniversary Concert for San Romolo, Choir and Or- Distributed all over the world in September. Il Mercante di Venezia chestra Cantica Nova Shakespeare, Archètipo Company Music by Bach, Beethoven, Mozart Palazzo Pitti, Grotta del Buontalenti, €9 See July 3, 9.30 pm Write to: the_fl ood@thefl orentine.net box offi ce, www.archetipoac.it, info 055- 6530729, 21.30 10 Thursday 29 June 2006 What’s on & Where to Go www.thefl orentine.net

Events in FLORENCE JUN 30 TO JUL 13

Tuscan Tour of the Orchestra “La Sin- n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) n MUSIC & CONCERTS n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES fonetta” from Geneva Il Mercante di Venezia Nassrin Six-nation sports fi shing trophy Trofeo Opers by Vivaldi, Sibelius, Mozart, Binet Shakespeare, Archètipo company Oltrarno Street Festival See July 7 and Gounod See July 3 piazza della passera, info 055-2645356, Fiorentina Baseball VS Rangers Base- “Estate in Peretola”, Piazza di Santa Maria, Il visitatore 21.30 ball Club Firenze, ore 21,15 Teatro del Sale, via dei Macci 111r, Carmen Game 1 at 3.30 pm, Game 2 at 8.30 pm Choir Concert [email protected], info 055 2001492, Opera Festival 2006 Cerreti Baseball Stadium , Viale Manfredo Award-winning concert preformed by the 21.30 Giardino di Boboli, p.za Pitti, www.festiva- Fanti 18 Canatarè Chorus from Alberta, Canada lopera.it, info 055-5979005, 21:00 sale at Sergio Ricci n SUMMER NIGHTS Chiesa S. Maria de Ricci, www.cantarechil- Cabaret Box Offi ce drenschoir.org, 7 pm, free Piazzale Michelangelo, www.comune.fi .it, Fafà de Belem Florence as it was Philip Glass “Works for Solo Piano info 055-27681, 22.31 Saschall, Lungarno A. Moro 3, 42€ box of- Special opening, Le Notti dell’Archeologia and Orchestra” fi ce, 21.30 Museo Storico Topografi co, via del- Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Orchestra l’Oriuolo 24, info 055 2616545, gestione. Piazza della Signoria, info 055-2625955, 10ª O Flos Colende musei@comune.fi .it, 21,00-24,00 WEDNESDAY 5 Sacred music concert 21.30 free Battistero e Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Collection of Egyptian archeological The Elegant Gipsy Trio n LECTURES & CONFERENCES Fiore, info 055-2302885, ore 21.15 free artifacts Rampe di Piazza Poggi , San Niccolò, Celebration to commemorate the Special opening, Le Notti dell’Archeologia www.fi renzestate.com, info 349-2384360, Stefano Scodanibbio, The sound of Museo Stibbert, via Federico Stibbert 26, 200th anniversary of the birth of Eliza- the soul 22.00 beth Barrett Browning tel. 055.486069, www.comune.fi .it, 21,00- Museo Marino Marini, p.za S. Pancrazio, 24,00, reduced entrance price Musipolitana, Events at the Harold Acton Library 5th July www.fi renzestate.com, info 055-695000, Music from Senegal, the Ivory Coast, Iran, (last Cultural Program lecture) 21.00, free (in Italian unless otherwise noted) Romania, Cuba, Perù British Institute of Florence, Lungar- n THEATRE Niki Giustini piazza della passera, info 055-2645356, no Guicciardini 9, tel. 055.26778270, n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES 21.30 free admission,15.00 Reading Cabaret Trotting race Piazzale Michelangelo, www.comune.fi .it, The Elegant Gipsy Trio of ‘Casa Guidi Windows’ poem See July 2 17.00 Visit to Casa Guidi, piazza San Felice, info 055-27681, 22.33 Popular music 8, 18.00 Lecture ‘An Old Yellow Book: the Rampe di Piazza Poggi , San Niccolò, death and burial of Elizabeth Barrett Brown- FRIDAY 7 www.fi renzestate.com, info 349-2384360, ing’ given by Sister Julia Bolton Holloway SUNDAY 9 22.00 TVJ The Virtual Job n LECTURES & CONFERENCES n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) European project TVJ for the online job re- Accademia dei Georgofi li, lectures and search Paolo Migone Come in America seminars/workshops Cabaret See July 10 Piazza Ghiberti (S. Ambrogio area) www. July 7 Accademia dei Georgofi li, Logge Uffi - fi renzesummerfest.it, 19.00 Piazzale Michelangelo, www.comune.fi .it, Masti Show (games and jokes) Estate zi Corti, info 055212114, www.georgofi li.it info 055-27681, 22.33 alle Piagge 2006 n MUSIC & CONCERTS n MARKETS & FESTIVALS Cabaret The Parsons Dance Company Le Piagge , Piazzetta del Centro Commer- All Out, Watermelon party MONDAY 10 ciale, info 055-2767033, 21.15 free 17° Florence Dance Festival Centro Commerciale Naturale Borgo La Teatro Romano, via Portigiani 1, Fiesole, Croce Piazza Beccarla, info 055.2767621, n CINEMA Volo in cinque tempi info 055-289276, www.fl orencedance.org, 19.00-23.00 Street theatre Circuito Box Offi ce, 9.15 pm The Da Vinci Code Piazza Ghiberti (S. Ambrogio area) www. S. Spirito Fair Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel. fi renzesummerfest.it, 19.00 n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) Piazza S. Spirito info 055-3283550 055.214068, www.cinehall.it, Shows 6.30- L’elisir di Caterina Il visitatore 9.30pm See July 4 n MUSIC & CONCERTS Show and banquet Micha Van Hoecke Ensemble n MUSIC & CONCERTS Hotel Relais Certosa, www.mesemediceo. Andrea Agresti it, info 055-6120205, € 35, 21.15 17° Florence Dance Festival Piano Recital Cabaret See July 5 Piazzale Michelangelo, www.comune.fi .it, Giardino di Boboli, p.za Pitti, Grotta del info 055-27681, 22.30 10ª O Flos Colende Buontalenti, www.festivalopera.it, info 055- WEDNESDAY 12 Mozart Concert, Chorus Sine Nomine 5979005 / 210804, Box Offi ce for tic- Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, p.za kets,21.00 n CINEMA THURSDAY 6 Duomo, info 055-2302885, 21.15 free Simone Graziano Trio The Rolling Stones: Time is in our side n Jazz (let’s spend the night together) n CINEMA SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Piazza Ghiberti (S. Ambrogio area) www. Six-nation sports fi shing trophy See July 11 The Lake House fi renzesummerfest.it, 19.00 Austria, Germany, Luxemburg, Holland, n DANCE Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel. Switzerland and Italy n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES 055.214068, www.cinehall.it, Shows 6.00- Arno River, Via Sogliani (on the left side of Excalibur Stories 8.15-10.30 pm Trotting race See July 11 Ponte alla Vittoria) See July 2 n DANCE Romeo and Juliet n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) Forte di Belvedere, info 055.2779241, Flamenco Show Il Mercante di Venezia by ‘Fundaciòn Flamenca Andaluza’ Acad- Come in America 21:30 (also on 14, 15 and 19 July) Shakespeare, Archètipo Company Show details on www.zauberteatro.com emy of Flamenco Dance See July 2 n MUSIC & CONCERTS A.C.F.Art Center Florence, Via Ghibellina Arno river, starting from Piazza Mentana, 92r, tel. 055 2478864, 5 PM, www.artcen- La Bettola Toscana Show www.renaioli.it, info 055-5000640 Litfi ba terfl orence.it Cabaret Ippodromo del Visarno, entrance dal Viale Rampe di Piazza Poggi , San Niccolò, della Catena, [email protected], n GUIDED TOURS www.fi renzestate.com, info 349-2384360, TUESDAY 11 22.00 Special Opening of Maria Maddale- 22.00 Badara Seck, Mauro Pagani, Massimo na de’ Medici’s Corridor, The Medici n CINEMA Ranieri Grand Ensemble Month UNITED 93 Piazza della Signoria, info 055-2625955, www.mesemediceo.it, i n f o 0 5 5 - 6 1 2 0 2 0 5 , SATURDAY 8 Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel. 21.30 free ¬ 1 0, 2 055.214068, www.cinehall.it, Shows 6.00- Musipolitana Walking to Forte Belvedere, discover- n GUIDED TOURS 8.15-10.30 pm See July 11 Baluardo at San Giorgio Medici Month ing the Florentine “Coasts” The Rolling Stones: time is in our side Tour by Akropolis cultural association Florence under attack: the battle of 1529 (let’s spend the night together) n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) meeting point on Ponte Vecchio at Cellini and the city defense. Tour guide by Cristina CINETECA DI FIRENZE via reginaldo giu- Come in America place, 21.00 to 22.30 info 055.461428 Porciani. liani 357, info 055,450749, 21,45, 5€ See July 10 Forte di Belvedere, Porta S. Giorgio, www. Florence free tours with Ataf mesemediceo.it, info 055-6120205, € n DANCE Five extraordinary nights with Florence Art, 6,00, 11:00 Florence free tours with Ataf, to celebrate Excalibur Stories THURSDAY 13 the 60th company birthday, ATAF offers n MUSIC & CONCERTS Presented by Florence Dance Company Park of Stibbert Museum, via di Montughi 7, n CINEMA free guided tour to Florence main master- Symphonic Orchestra, City of Gros- piece for the holder of Agile Card, and of Poggetto, tel. 055.486069, www.comune. RV: Runaway Vacation seto fi .it, 21.30 Prenotazione obbligatoria Odeon CineHall, piazza Strozzi, tel. the new Firenze Passepartour ATAF, tel. Classical music 0552710765, www.ataf.net 055.214068, www.cinehall.it, Shows 6.00- Chiesa di Orsanmichele, Via Calzaiuoli, info n GUIDED TOURS 8.15-10.30 pm n LECTURES & CONFERENCES 055-210804 / 783374 tickets at Box Of- Cenacolo di San’Apollonia fi ce, 21 Mozart, Schumann, Shostakovich Mu- Tour by Akropolis cultural association n DANCE sical Moments. Meeting n PARKS meeting point via XXVII Aprile 1, 10,00 info Excalibur Stories 055.461428 See July 11 July 6 at 5 pm, Villa Schifanoia, Fiesole, info Archeological Nights 055409373, www.nuovieventimusicali.org Special free opening of monuments garden n MUSIC & CONCERTS n GUIDED TOURS n MARKETS & FESTIVALS and Archaeological Museum Il Suono dell’Utopia Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Via della Special Opening of Maiano Villa, The Flower market Music by Mozart and Prokofi ev Medici Month Colonna 38, Info 055 23575, sat@comune. See July 3, 9 pm Via Pellicceria, only in the morning fi renze.it, 20.00-24.00 www.mesemediceo.it, info 055-6120205, 11 www.thefl orentine.net What’s on & Where to Go Thursday 29 June 2006

Events in FLORENCE JUN 30 TO JUL 13

Michelangelo’s “Leda” and the second Human game. Vincitori e vinti Ciompi Antique fair n LECTURES & CONFERENCES Florentine Republic June21-July 23, Stazione Leopolda, viale Piazza de’ Ciompi, tel. 055.3283550, every 40th Anniversary of Flood «I too was Until July 10, 9.30-14, Casa Buonarroti , via Fratelli Rosselli 5, tel. 055.212622, www. week day and last Sunday of the month there» interviews with people who Ghibellina 70, tel. 055.241752 stazione-leopolda.it Mercato del Porcellino lived through the fl ood experience Man from the Renaissance New Liberalistic Pleasures Florentine crafts with straw, hand-made July 13 at 9p.m, Sede Albereta, piazza Ra- Until July 23, 9-20, Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza Until September 10, Biagiotti Proget- embroidery, leather, woodwork,and fl ow- venna info tel. 0556585128, www.comune. Strozzi, tel. 055.2776461, www.palazzo- to Arte, Via delle Belle Donne 39/r, tel. ers fi .it strozzi.info 055.214757 Logge del Porcellino, every day, all day n MUSIC & CONCERTS Vu d’Italie 1841-1941 Firenze 99 Contemporanea Accoglienza attraverso l’Arte Note Noire Until June 30, 10-20, Museo Stibbert, via Programme of international contemporary Evening meetings for expat residents of Jazz Federico Stibbert 26, tel. 055.486069, art exhibits in the city Florence Rampe di Piazza Poggi , San Niccolò, www.comune.fi .it Until July 30, See www.pittimmagine.com Until June 30, MUDI Museo degli Innocenti, www.fi renzestate.com, info 349-2384360, Arte e Manifattura di corte a Firenze. for locations Piazza S.S. Annuziata 12, tel. 0552037308 22.00 Dal tramonto dei Medici all’Impero Tre mostre Mercatini equosolidali Hop “Cavalca la Luca Pirozzi Accordi and Disaccordi trio (1732-1815) Untill June 30 Centro per l’Arte Contempo- Notte” - 1ª ed piazza della passera, info 055-2645356, Until November 5, Palazzo Pitti, piazza Pitti ranea Luigi Pecci, v.le della Repubblica 277, Until August 6, Ippodromo del Visarno Viale 21.30 1, tel. 055.294883 Prato, tel. 0574.5317, www.centropecci.it della Catena, davanti alle Pavoniere, Info: Lorenzo Monaco: dalla tradizione giot- Marangoni Student Exhibit [email protected], 18.00 n SPORT & ACTIVITIES tesca al Rinascimento Exhibit by second year university students 63th Pitti Immagine Bimbo Trotting race Until September 24, 8.15-18.50, Galle- Until June 31, 3-7 pm, FSM gallery, Via San Children’s wear and accessories collec- See July 2 ria dell’Accademia, via Ricasoli 50, tel. Zanobi 19R, tel 055 280368, exhibitions@ tions. Access reserved to professionals 055.294883, www.polomuseale.fi renze.it studiomarangoni.it within the sector Mostra di pittori fi orentini neorealisti Gravità e luce from 30th June to 2nd July, Fortezza da ONGOING Until June 30, Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza Stroz- Marble sculptures by Naoko Kumasaka, Basso, tel. 05549721, www.pittimmagine. zi, tel. 055.2776461, www.palazzostrozzi. Durid Campbell, Lothar Nickel, Jaja Schur- com n COMPETITION info ch and Franco Scuderi Il Mese Mediceo 1.000 euro per 1 minute Miniatura Umbra del Rinascimento Until July 31, Limonaia di Villa Vogel, via Until July 31, www.mesemediceo.it Competition open to videos no longer than Until June 25, 8.15-13.50, Sat 8.15-18.50, delle Torri 23 , Isolotto, info 055.2625955, 59th Pitti Immagine Filati one minute, titles included. Sun 8.15-19, Museo di San Marco, Piazza www.fi renzestate.com, 9.00-12.00 Yarn’s Fair. Access reserved to operators Deadline June 30, Videominuto PopTV, San Marco 3 tel. 055.2388608 Copti Fabrics From Egiptian Museum from 5th to 7th July, Fortezza da Basso, tel. Festival Offi ce, via del Rosso Fiorentino 2b, Photographic Exhibit of Firenze 05549721, www.pittimmagine.com tel. 055.7399981, www.videominuto.it, the Until October 22, Museo Casa Siviero, chosen videos will be shown at Centro per Il Genio Fiorentino, Organized by the Vintage Selection French consulate; photographs to present Lungarno Serristori 3, www.cultura.tos- The Vintage Clothing, Accessories and De- l’Arte Contemporanea Luigi Pecci in Prato cana.it/musei/primo_piano/siviero.html, nfo on September 9 the extraordinary Florentine journey. signer Objects Fair Until July 22, Institut Français de Florence, 055.2345219 from 5th to 8th July, Stazione Leopolda, Pencils for Peace Piazza Ognissanti 2, tel 055 2718801, Lo sguardo dell’innocenza p.le di Porta al Prato, www.pittimmagine. A national competition for young cartoon- www.geniofi orentino.it Workshop on creativity an expression, La Tinaia com, info 055-212622, free, from 10am to ists ages 14-30 The Mind of Leonardo. Universal Ge- Until July 31, Piazzetta Madonna della Neve, 10pm Deadline August 31, info www.scuolacom- www.latinaia.org info 055-2625955 ics.it, tel. 055.218950 or www.portale- nius at Work Festa Regionale de l’Unità giovani.comune.fi .it, tel. 055.218310 Until January 7, 2007, 8.15-19.00, Tues-Sun, Passion pour la vie (location 1) Politics, music and cuisine Galleria degli Uffi zi, Piazzale degli Uffi zi, tel. Charity exhibit with international artists July 13-Aust 12, Fortezza da Basso, info n DANCE 055.2388651, www.uffi zi.fi renze.it Until July 30, Museo Diocesano di S. Ste- 055.503201 fano al Ponte, p.za S. Stefano al Ponte Vec- Danz&state 2006: summer ballet The Renaissance Man: Leon Battista n MUSIC & CONCERTS Dance performances and competition by Alberti chio 5, www.antoinegaber.com, info 055 international choreographers Until July 23, 9-20, Fri Until 23.00, Palazzo 292082, free Organ and instrumental concerts June 26-July 8, 21.00, Teatro della Li- Strozzi, Piazza Strozzi, tel. 055.2776461, Passion pour la vie (location 2) Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Ricci, via del monaia di Villa Strozzi, via Pisana 77, tel. www.palazzostrozzi.info Charity exhibits with international artists Corso, tel. 055.289367, all year, Mon-Sun 21.15, Sat 18.00, €11 055.351530, www.danzatoscana.it Walk-In Until July 30, Roof Terrace of Grand Hotel Callas A collection of art work from young artists Baglioni, P.za Unità Italiana 6, www.antoin- Concerts at St. Mark’s English Church MaggioDanza Until June 30, Galleria Alessandro Bagnai, egaber.com, info 055 292082, every day The “Orpheus Ensemble” presents sacred Until 9 august, Teatro Comunale, Corso Ita- tel. 055.680266 from 5 pm aperitive time music, Italian opera arias and Neapolitan Songs with piano and voice lia 16, info 199.112112, 20.30 Lights on Chinart Contrappunto Painting exhibition by Lisa Wade St. Mark’s English Church, Via Maggio 16- n EXHIBITS Exhibit of Contemporary Chinese Art 18, tel 340.8119192, every day at 21.15, Until August 31, Palazzo Capponi all July from 3 to 14, SACI Gallery, Palazzo Passaggi – Passages dei Cartelloni, via Sant’antonino 11, tel. €15, for The Florentine readers € 10 (Mon- ‘Annunziata, Via Gino Capponi 26, tel. days free piano recital) Painting exhibition by Antonio Biancalani 055.242248, www.palazzocapponiallan- 055289948, www.saci-fl orence.org Until July 29, Galleria Falteri, via della Spa- nunziata.it Stati d’infanzia I “Maggi” Fiorentini da 38r, tel. 055217740, www.falteri.it Classical music Appesi ad un fi lo: tessuti espressivi Photos by Giovanni Santi Matthew Spender Until July 28, Limonaia di villa Strozzi, via Pi- La Limonaia” del Giardino Bardini info 055- Photos by Giulia Naldini 2768520, Fry and Sat 18:00 Sculpture Exhibit Until July 31, Maison Dumitru, Borgo Pinti sana 77, tel. 055.2767113 Until 21 August, Badia Fiesolana, Basilica 25r, tel. 055.7189417 Equilibrio e gioco Florence International Music Festival di Sant’Alessandro, Area Archeologica, Until July 21, www.il-trillo.com, info 055- Sculpture by Vincenzo Chiazza Sculptures by Beatrice Barni 1996-2006 Museo Archeologico, Fiesole, info 800- Until July 28, Museo Marino Marini , p.za S. 2341049, free 414240 www.fi esolemusei.it Until June 30, Limonaia di villa Strozzi, via Pisana 77, tel. 055.2767113 Pancrazio, www.museomarinomarini.it , info Danz&state 2006 Pedalando nel tempo 055.486049, 10.00-17.00, €4 Summer ballet. Choreography prize The Mystery of the Genesis in the Jorge Pedaling throughout time From June 26 to July 8 ( prize: June 30, July Jimenez Deredia’s Sculptures n GUIDED TOURS 1, 2), Teatro della Limonaia di Villa Strozzi, An exhibit of antique bicycles in the new Forty sculptures made of Carrara white ground-fl oor exhibition space of the Mu- Itinerari e Incontri via Pisana, tel. 055 351530, www.danzato- marble and bronze by Jorge Jiménez De- Guided visits, book presentations, and con- scana.it seum. redia (Costa Rican). Until December 31, Mon-Sat 9.30-17, Tues ferences Oltrarno Street Festival Until September 30, closed 1st and last Associazione Akropolis, Info 055461428, 9.30-13, 2nd Sun of the month 10-13, Mon of the month, €7, Boboli Gardens, Pi- Until July 28, piazza della passera, info 055- Museo di Storia della Scienza, piazza dei http://it.geocites.com/associazione_akrop- 2645356, 21.30 azza Pitti, tel. 055-2298732, www.ilmistero- olis, all year Giudici 1, tel. 055.265311, www.imss.fi .it dellagenesi.com 8th International Festival of European Museo Bandini The Dreams of a Queen Behind the the big curtain a group of Youth Orchestras Until July 9, Mon-Wed 10-14, Fri-Sun 10- Until October 31, 9.30-19, Fiesole, via Du- Firenzestate 2006 painters kept on working…… prè 1 18, Museo Stibbert, via Federico Stibbert June 16-July 7, Mon-Fri 18-20, Sat-Sun 13- July 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 20, 26, tel. 055.486069, www.comune.fi .it 16, Atelier Rebecca Harp, piazza della Re- Restoration of the cycle of frescoes by 27*, 30*, Piazza San Lorenzo and *= Chie- Incontri Mediterranei / Mediterranean pubblica 3, 3rd fl oor A. Gaddi in the Cappella Maggiore sa Santo Stefano al Ponte, Piazza de’ Salta- Until December 31, Fri and Sat at 10, 11, relli, tel. 055597026, www.fl orenceyouthfe- Encounters Garden in Tuscany Until October 10, Museo Archeologi- 12, 14, 15, 16; Sun at 14, 15, 16, Chiesa stival.com Photography by Massimo Listri di Santa Croce co Nazionale, via della Colonna 36, tel. Until July 17, Palazzo Medici Riccardi, Via La Traviata 055.294883, www.fi renzemusei.it/archeo- Cavour 1, info 055.4382638, 9.00-19.00 Artisans of the Oltrarno, in search of Opera Festival 2006 logica artistic craftsmanship from 6th to 27th July, Giardino di Boboli, Sculptural studies & Drawings by Rog- Genuine Florentine artisan traditions p.za Pitti, www.festivalopera.it, info 055- Rifi uti Preziosi, Il Nouveau Réalisme e er Phillips la cultura contemporanea Info 055.3036108, www.fi renze-oltrarno. 5979005, 21:00 sale at Box Offi ce Until June 30, Mon-Fri, 9-17, Saci Gallery, net, all year An art exhibit with recyclable materials and Palazzo dei Cartelloni, via sant’Antonino 11 Colori del Mondo, Concerts junk art: Nouveau Realism and contempo- Hortibus Collection & Garden tours Firenzestate 2006 rary culture Quasi l’infanzia, i bambini e lo sguar- Starting point: piazza S.Trinita, every Thur July 8, 11, 23; Area Pettini Burresi, via Faen- Until June 30, Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza Stroz- do dell’artista and Sat at 15.00, info 348.9100783, www. tina 145, tel. 0552767828, www.fi renzesta- zi, tel. 055.2776461, www.palazzostrozzi. June 20-Sept 17, Palazzo Vecchio, Sala d’Ar- hortibus.com, € 25, all year te.com info, 10-19 me, piazza della Signoria,tel. 055.6120467 n MARKETS & FESTIVALS Concerts of the Chamber Orchestra Fatti ad Arte La sacralità nel quotidiano. Mattew 26th concert season 2006 A Collection of art work by Antonio lo Pin- Spender sculptures Mercato San Lorenzo July 10, 11, 20*, 21*, 24*, 28*, Chiesa di to, Dontatello Mei, David Palterer, Adriano June 21-August 21, 10-19, Museo e Area Florentine crafts, hand-made embroidery, Orsanmichele, Cortile del Museo Nazionale Persiani, Leda Ratti Archeologica, via Portigiani 1, info 800 paper, leather etc del Bargello, tel. 055783374, www.orcafi .it Until July 15, Spazio 2 Piazza Stozzi, tel. 414240, Fiesole Streets around Basilica San Lorenzo, every 0552658114 day, all day 12 Thursday 29 June 2006 What’s on & Where to Go www.thefl orentine.net

Events in FLORENCE JUN 30 TO JUL 13

Theatre, skateboarding and exhibit on Bar- Ludoteca Il Castoro Primo Piano n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES tali Every Monday: Let’s Play Together, Every Words, Art, Actions, Music, a collection of Navigating on the Arno River under Until July 31, every day, Piazza Bartali Tuesday: Handicraft lab and painting with live art. Over 400 pieces capturing the ar- Ponte Vecchio Cure allo scoperto Chiara, Every Wednesday: Let’s Use the tistic movement of the 60’s and 70’s. Rowing on the Arno Videocamera, Every Thursday: inventing June 14-September 18, Centro Arte Con- from June to October, starting point: Lungar- Events every night, music, outdoor bar, computer corner and acting out stories, Every Friday: fun and temporanea Pecci, Viale della Repubblica no A.M. de’ Medici and Lungarno Generale games in English, Every day: book loaning 277, Prato, tel. 05745317, www.centroarte- Diaz, tel. 347 7982 356, www.renaioli.it June 16-July 29, from 18.00, Spazio Giovani Cure, via Faentina 145, tel. 055.5522816, and story-time for children and parents pecci.prato.it, Closed Mon/Tues, Wed-Thur SabbiaVolo 2006 www.spaziocure.it c/o Ludoteca Il Castoro, Via U. della Faggio- 10-18.30, €5 la 68/A (Scuola Villani), tel. 055.6810517 Beach volley Tournament until July 20, Sesto Fiorentino e Signa, info Estate freschi n GUIDED TOURS Music, theatre, sport & show Le statue stele 340.6818657, a:[email protected], www. Workshops for children and adults, Le Notti Guided tours in the Natural Reserve of sabbiavolo.altervista.org, Untill 20 July, Until July 30, every day, Area Pettini Burresi, Fucecchio marsh via Faentina 154 dell’Archeologia Beach Pro Museo Fiorentino di Preistoria, via San Egi- Padule di Fucecchio, tel. 0573.84540, Un- Beach volley competition Ballo Liscio e Vernacolo show dio 21,info@museofi orentinopreistoria.it tel. til June on weekends , www.zoneumideto- From 13rd to 27th July, Piazzale Michelange- Until September at 9pm, Giardini di Bellari- 055.295159, 9,30-12,30 free reservations scane.it/eventi/padeventi.html lo, info 340.6818657, a:sabbiavolo@libero. va, lungarno Aldo Moro, tel. 055.2767822 required On the Scaffolding with Filippo Lippi it, www.sabbiavolo.altervista.org Summer at Demidoff Villa. Theatre and Gli strumenti musicali nella preistoria Visits to the restoration of Filippo Lippi’s music shows Workshops for children and adults, Le Notti fresco (max 12 persons) n SUMMER NIGHTS from June to September, Parco Mediceo di dell’Archeologia Cattedrale di Santo Stefano, piazza del Du- Meridiani e Paralleli Pratolino info 055409155, www.provincia. Museo Fiorentino di Preistoria, via San Egi- omo, Prato, tel. 0574.24112, www.restau- Until September 10, every day from 17.00 fi .it dio 21, info@museofi orentinopreistoria.it rofi lippolippi.it, by reservation only, every to 1.00, Piazza Indipendenza Sat at 10, 11, 16, 17, Sun at 10, 11, €8 n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) tel. 055.295159, 14,00-17,00 free reserva- Parco e Piscina Le Pavoniere tions required Guided walking tours around Calenzano Shows on Arno. Onboard of the an- Music, shows, DJ sessions, live perfor- Segni della Preistoria From April to October, info 055.8833255, mances, fashion, pool, food & cocktails cient boats of Renaioli www.comune.calenzano.fi .it Untill 1st August, Arno river, starting from Workshops for children and adults, Le Notti Until September 24, from 20.00, Le Pavo- dell’Archeologia On the Scaffolding with Filippo Lippi niere, parco delle Cascine, on Sunday latin Piazza Mentana, www.renaioli.it, info 055- 5000640 �20, 21.15 Museo Fiorentino di Preistoria, via San Egi- Visits to the restoration of Filippo Lippi’s music dio 21, info@museofi orentinopreistoria.it, fresco (max 12 persons) Summerfest2006 L’Elsa di sangue info 055.295159, 14,00-17,00 free reser- every Sat at 10, 11, 16, 17, Sun at 10, 11, Music, theatre and more The Medici Month vations required €8, Cattedrale di Santo Stefano, piazza June 29-July 9, 21.00, Mura di Firenze, Ba- Until September 9, every evening, Piazza La semina e la panifi cazione nella del Duomo, Prato, tel. 0574.24112, www. Ghiberti (S. Ambrogio area), www.fi renze- luardo di San Giorgio, Forte di Belvedere, restaurofi lippolippi .it, by reservation only www.mesemediceo.it preistoria summerfest.it Workshops for children and adults, Le Notti Abbey of San Salvatore and San Parco sud La Parola al teatro dell’Archeologia Lorenzo a Settimo Music, cinema, dance, games for children, food Firenzestate 2006 Museo Fiorentino di Preistoria, via San Egi- Every Wed, Fri 10-12, Sun 15.30-18, closed Until September 9, every day all day, Parco Until September, info & booking dio 21, info@museofi orentinopreistoria.it July and Aug, Badia a Settimo, Scandicci, dell’Anconella, via di Villamagna 055.2625955, www.fi renzestate.it tel. 055.295159, 9.30-12.30 free reserva- tel. 055.7310537, www.badiadisettimo.it tions required Rime Rampanti Villa Fabbricotti Estate 2006 The Ceramics of Montelupo Theatre shows Music, dance, theatre, games, DJ sets, food n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) Free guided visits of Archaeology and Ce- and drinks Until July 29, Villa Fabbricotti, via V.Emanuele ramics Museum and participation in work- II n.64, Prenotazioni tel. 0555000640 (Bus Puppet show shops Until September 3, every evening from Il Cappello di Merlino, via Mazzetta 14r, tel. 19.00, Rime di piazza Poggi n.4) . Info Q.5 tel. 0552767045, www.zau- Every Thur from 10.00 to 14.00, Museo berteatro.com 055.264471, every Sat, 17.00 Archeologico e della Ceramica, Montelupo Easy Living in Santo Spirito Favole al Boschetto Fiorentino, tel. 0571.518993 Live Music, Bar, cocktails, free wireless ac- ImprovvisaMente Atti o Scene in luogo pubblico Stories from the great tradition of fairy-tales Wine and Fashion in the Florentine cess all over the Piazza. Il Boschetto, via di Soffi ano 11, Legnaia, Until September 10, Piazza Santo Spirito, July 3, 6, 10; Area Pettini Burresi, via Faen- Mountains. Itineraries with guided vis- tina 145, tel. 0552767828, www.fi renzesta- info 055.700026, €8 senior, 5€ children, its, shopping www.piazzart.com, info 3400713410, ev- 21.30 ery evening te.com Tours to discover the beauty of the Floren- tine Mountains. Visits to artisan workshops Summer nights 2006. La Vasca at the and local shopping centres Fortezza CHILDREN OUT OF TOWN All year Mon and Sat, Resco Travel, tel. Live music, bar, dj 055.868009 Until September 10, Fortezza da Basso, n n COMPETITION EXHIBITS walking in Val D’orcia (Siena) Viale Filippo Strozzi, tel. 055-2767621, Scrivo per sport www.fi renzestate.com, free I bambini raccontano la Preistoria unitll 30 November, info and booking 0577 Exhibition of works by primary school chil- Contest to select fi lms that have sports in 351302 www.dimenicainchianti.it, 7€ Il suono dell’anima dren from Florence, Prato and Pistoia Prato as their theme. Firenzestate 2006 Until June 30 Museo Fiorentino di Preistoria Deadline July 15, Concorso Scrivo per Sport, Sunday in Chianti Until September, Chiesa di S. Gaetano, “P. Graziosi”- tel. 055295159 Comune di Prato, Assessorato allo Sport, unitll 30 october, info and booking 0577 Museo del Bargello, tel. 055.2625955, via Migliorati 1, Prato, info 0574.1836484, 898303 www.parcodellavaldorcia.com, 8€ www.fi renzestate.it n GUIDED TOURS 800.058850, 0574.401376 The Valley of Treasures Guided visits to the Jerusalem of San Viv- Estaz Il Giardino di Archimede, Mathematics Events happening throughout the summer Sundays n COURSES aldo including musical performances, fi lms and Guided visits and surprise events at the Arteinscena Musical laboratory Montaione, San Vivaldo info 0571699252 viewing of the World Cup. Museum Dance and singing www.piccoligrandimusei.it Until July 26, every day, STAZ - Stazione di Il Giardino di Archimede, Museo per la enrollment to [email protected] Camminata Etrusca Confi ne, via Attavante 5, tel. 055.7320812, Matematica, via S. Bartolo a Cintoia 19, tel. or fax (0574/445580) o at Teatro Politeama From Tumulo di Montefortini to the ne- www.stazionediconfi ne.it 055.7879594, www.archimede.ms, on the Pratese, Via G. Garibaldi 33 Prato cropolis of Prato Rosello, special tour of Spettacoli itineranti sul fi ume fi rst Sunday of every month n EXHIBITS the burial ground, archeological sites and Theatre performances aboard small boats n MUSIC & CONCERTS Museum of Artimio on the Arno David Smithson & Bach Backwards Carmignano, Prato, 8.00, reservations re- June 6-July 7, info & booking 055.5000640, July for children Until July 30, 10-19, Centro per l’Arte Con- quired within 30/6 at 055-8712468 www. www.zauberteatro.com, starting point pi- Theatre shows for children temporanea Luigi Pecci, v.le della Repubbli- cultura.toscana.it/musei.htm from June 30 to July 19, Campi Bisenzio, ca 277, Prato, tel. 0574.5317 azza mentana, €20 Sito di Gonfi enti, Le Notti dell’Archeologia Parco Iqbal info 05 58959318, www.co- Omissis by Marco Neri Hop “Cavalca la Notte” mune.campi-bisenzio.fi .it Guided visit of the restoration workshop of Music, sports and food Until July 30, 10-19, closed Mon, Tues, the artifacts discovered in the Etruscan city Until August 6, from 18.00 every evening, Ip- n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Centro per l’Arte Contemporanea Luigi of Gonfi enti Pecci, v.le della Repubblica 277, Prato, tel. Area archeologica di Gonfi enti, Prato, podromo del Visarno, Parco delle Cascine, The little joiner’s shop info http://hopcavalcalanotte.blogspot.com 0574.5317 [email protected], info 0574 Workshop to create wooden games, de- 615025/615028, ore 17.00 FirenzEstate 06 in Santissima Annun- velops creativity and dexterity. For children Primo Piano ziata age 4 to 10 Words, Art, Actions, Music, a collection of Guided walking tours Music, theatre and more Il Cappello di Merlino, via Mazzetta 14r, tel. live art. Over 400 pieces capturing the ar- Calenzano tel. 0558833255, www.comu- Until September 6, every evening, Piazza 055.264471, every Wed, 17.00 tistic movements of the 60’s and 70’s. ne.calenzano.fi .it Santissima Annunziata June 14-September 18, Centro Arte Con- The amazing circus of Merlin the Wizard temporanea Pecci, Viale della Repubblica n MARKETS & FESTIVALS Reading Don Chisciotte Workshop to create circus equipment. For 277, Prato, tel. 05745317, www.centroarte- Firenzestate 2006 children ages 4 to 11 pecci.prato.it, Closed Mon/Tues, Wed-Thur Week-end of July 1-2 June 9-July 6, Chiostro delle Oblate, via S. Il Cappello di Merlino, via Mazzetta 14r, tel. 10-18.30, €5 Marea Egidio 21, 21.30, from Mon to Fri. Free but 055.264471, every Thur, 17.00 Music, games festival, meetings invitation compulsury. Go to l’Assessora- Intrecci mediterranei The world through the senses Fabrics from 11th to 17th centuries June 19-July 2, Buca di Sant’Andrea, www. to alla Cultura del Comune di Firenze, Via Experimenting with the senses (taste, sight, marea.fucecchio.it Ghibellina 30. Tel 055.2625955 or to Com- Until September 30, Wed-Fri 10-18, Sat hearing, touch, smell) through games and 10-14, Sun 16-19, Tue closed, Museo del Open shops under the stars pagnia Lombardi Tiezzi, via Domenico Maria book-readings. For children ages 2 to 5. Manni 55, tel. 055.600218 Tessuo, via santa chiara 24, Prato, 0574 Shows, food tasting Il Cappello di Merlino, via Mazzetta 14r, tel. 611503, www.museodetessuto.it, 4€ June-September on Wednesday, Dicomano Estate a San Salvi 055.264471, every Fri, 17.00 Vivere da Etrusco historical center Theatre, dance, music, etc. Artisti in erba Until September 10, every day, Area San Exhibit of Le Notti dell’Archeologia San Casciano Sempreaperta Free painting lessons outdoors Museo Archeologico di Artimino, Prato, info Performances and shops will stay open Sanvi, via S. Salvi 12, tel. 055.6236195, June 8-July 1, Tues & Thurs, Villa Favard, via www.chille.it 055-8712468 www.cultura.toscana.it/mu- June, July on Thursday evening San Cas- Aretina 511, tel. 055.2767822 sei.htm cino city center, tel. 055.8229558 Di tutti i colori 13 www.thefl orentine.net What’s on & Where to Go Thursday 29 June 2006

Events in FLORENCE JUN 30 TO JUL 13

Mercantia Pazza fresca festa 2006 Buenos Aires Tango 3^ Edition of Barberino Triathlon Music and theatre festival with market in from June 10 to July 30 on weekends Incisa Parco dell’Anconella, Albereta, Via di Villa- Lago di Bilancino, Barberino di Mugello, the castle of Certaldo Valdarno tel. 0558333443, www.comune. magna , Gavinana, www.buenosairestango. www.fi renzetriathlon.it July from 11 to 16, Certaldo Alto, info incisa-valdarno.fi .it it, info055-473555 Prato Abetone 0571661259, www.mercantiacertaldo.com July fair in Romola Frankie HI-Nrg Bike tourism Open shops under the stars July 11 La Romola tel. 0558229558, www. July 2, buca d’andrea, Fucecchio, www.ma- 9 July,Lega Provinciale Ciclismo UISP Shows, food tasting comune.san-casciano-val-di-pesa.fi .it reafestival.it, 21.00 Prato, Info: UISP tel. 0574-691133 e-mail Until September on Wed, Dicomano, info Boulevard by night. Food market and Sergio Cammeriere in concert [email protected] 055 838541 shows Castello dell’Imperatore, Prato, Info 0574- n SUMMER NIGHTS Ficattola food festival July 12 Vinci Sovigliana Viale Togliatti tel. 1835021-22 Estate in villa from June 24 to July 2 Fornacette Mon- 0571568012, www.comune.vinci.fi .it Lights of the town tespertoli tel. 0571657087, www.comune. All July, concerts in Villa Fiorelli, Parco di La Madia dei Sapori. Typical food prod- Concerts in cloisters and churches Galceti Prato, Info tel. 0574.697722 montespertoli.fi .it uct show July on Wed, Empoli, info 0571757999, Festival of duck food July 13 Castello di Poppiano tel. 05716001, www.comune.empoli.fi .it Summer in Sesto June 29- July 16, Circolo ARCI, Cerreto www.comune.montespertoli.fi .it June- September, info tel. 055.44961, Violins of Santa Vittoria www.sestoestate.com Guidi Ludorium Dies. Palio della Brocca del- A special violin concert in the court of an Festival in two villages l’Alleanza. Festival in medieval costu- ancient Medici farm in the hills Summer in Tavarnelle June 29-July 9, S. Pancrazio, tel. mes Fattoria di Bacchereto, Carmignano Prato, Walking in the centre: performances and 055.8229558 July from 13 to 23, Londa tel. 0558352531, 2€ market, food tasting in the village www.comune.londa.fi .it June- August, Tavernelle historical center, Beef steack food festival On the road festival, Busker meeting tel. 055.8077832, www.prolocotavarnelle.it from june 30th to July 2nd, Fucecchio, Con- n MUSIC & CONCERTS July from 6 to 9, PELAGO, info trada Borgonovo tel. 0571268264, www. 0558327301-32, www.comune.pelago.fi .it Pieve a Ripoli Festival comune.fucecchio.fi .it Bayern Open Space June & July, Pieve a Ripoli, tel. 0571.55671, Live Music Earth Wheel Sky Band www.comune.cerreto-guidi.fi .it I sapori dell’Etruria Bayern, Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, Prato, Brass band from Serbia playing music with Wine tasting and specialty sweets and Rom and Balkan sounds Sport festival tel. 057424120, www.bayernprato.com, Until September, San Casciano Val di Pesa, cookies from Etruria to nowadays 22.20, June 1-30 July 10, Festival delle Colline, Castello del- Prato Comeana, Piazza Battisti, 21.30 l’Imperatore, Prato, 2€ tel. 055.8229558 Music at Palazzo Pretorio Mercantico. Evening antique market Youssun Dour in concert Montemurlo Estate Concerts with guided tours and typical Cinema, dance, folklore, music, theatre and July 9 palazzuolo sul senio tel. 0558046008, Tuscan dinner July 10, Parco di Villa Solaria tel. www.palazzuolo.it 0554496357, www.sestoestate.com sport every Tuesday Until September, Palazzo Until September, every day, info Uffi - Viale di notte. Handicraft, antique, sec- Pretorio, Certaldo, tel. 0571.661276 L’estate di S. Francesco cio Cultura Comune di Montemurlo, tel. ond-hand good market Festival delle Colline Music and performances on the Museum’s 0574.558264 fi rst and second week in July VINCI, Sovigli- Modern music terrace ana tel. 0571568012, www.comune.vinci.fi .it from June to August on Thursday, Terrazza Scusa Mario June-July in different places around Prato, Every night events, music, outdoor bar, Tortello (fi lled pasta) and ricotta food programme info 0574-5317 www.centro- del Museo di S. Francesco, Greve in Chi- anti, tel. 055.8545271 disco festival artepecci.prato.it all summer, via tevere 100, osmannoro ses- July 1, 2 Palazzuolo, Casa del Villeggiante RAM, Percussioni, voce e corpo Carlo Fava Trio to fi orentino, info 055 308462, free, from tel. 0558046008, www.palazzuolo.it Student drum performances July 11, festival delle colline, Castello del- 22.00 Mushroom food festival July 1, Il Frantoio Parco Corsini, Fucecchio, l’Imperatore, Piazza S. Maria delle Carceri, Info 0574-1835021-22 Summer in Martignana July 1, 2 Reggello, Cascia tel. 0558669232, info. 0571 261143, www.comune.fucec- Until August 22, Martignana (Montesper- www.comune.reggello.fi .it chio.fi .it The Wild Blue Yonder toli), tel. 0571.676179 Multimedia show with tenors Festival on the river Arno with games Robert Burke e Simon Starr in concert Prato Estate 2006 and shows for children Jazz sax and bass from Australia July 12, Festival delle Colline, Castello del- l’Imperatore, Prato, 2€ Music, cinema, theatre the fi rst and second week in July Sovigliana July 8, 21.00, free, Monash University, Pa- Until September, info 0574.1835021-22, Viale Togliatti tel. 0571568012, www.co- lazzo Vaj, Via Pugliesi 26, Info 0574-43691 Summer in the castle www.pratoestate.it mune.vinci.fi .it Salotto musicale. Concerts Music, dance, theatre shows July 12, 19, 26 Castelfi orentino, info 0571 E...state al Poggio Snail food festival June, July, the fi rst Monday of the month, Fairs and performances July 1, 2 Vinci Loc. Spicchio tel. Sede Pro Lastra Enrico Caruso, Lastra a 686341-8, www.comune.castelfi orentino. fi .it Until August 26, Poggio alla Croce, Incisa 0571568012, www.comune.vinci.fi .it Signa, tel. 055.8722628 Valdarno, tel. 055.863129 Special general market PratoEstate n PARKS Rassegna musicale Frog Stage 2006 July 2, Piazza del Mercato Nuovo, Prato Concerts, performances, events, exhibits, etc. Sculptures in a woodland Until August 13, every night, Urban Park, via Aprilante market June-September, info: Ass. Cultura Comu- In an untouched wood of ilex and oak trees Ferraris, Prato fi rst Sunday of the month, Panzano in Chi- ne di Prato, tel. 0574.615024, www.pra- in the heart of Sienese Chianti, many inter- toestate.it Classical music concerts in some vil- anti, info 0558545271, www.comune. nationally renowned artists from fi ve conti- las, castles and parish churches greve-in-chianti.fi .it La Plaza nents have created imposing contemporary Until August 24, info tel. 0571.609412, Antique and collector market Pizzeria, bar, viewing of the World Cup, mu- sculptures www.comune. montespertoli.fi .it sic, other performances and children’s area Parco sculture del Chianti, La For- fi rst Sunday of the month Scarperia info Poggio In Vetrina 0558468165, www.comune.scarperia.fi .it Until September 1, 9.00-1.00, Argine Bisen- nace 48/49, Pievasciata, Siena, tel. zio, Viale Galilei close to Ponte Datini, Pra- 0577.357151, www.chiantisculpturepark.it, Music, dance, shops open until midnight Antique and fl ea market to, info: Anomalia Club, tel. 347.1873223, open all year June 22-July 27, Poggio a Caiano, info every fi rst Sunday of the month Sesto Fio- 055.8796611 www.anomaliaclub.it Parco Mediceo di Pratolino rentino info 0554496357, www.comune. Summer in Marcialla. Evening shows sesto-fi orentino.fi .it 52nd Festival Puccini Theatrical, musical and dance performanc- Opera festival in Torre del Lago (Lucca) es, inter-cultural themes. and games Threshing festival www.puccinifestival.it Until October 31, Thur & Fri, Pratolino, Va- Until August 20, Marcialla, tel. July from 3 to 9 Sesto Fiorentino Piazza Vit- 0558074101 Marea festival glia, info 055.409155, from Thur to Sun torio Veneto tel. 0554496357, www.comu- 10-19.30 Festival of two villages ne.sesto-fi orentino.fi .it Concerts, theatre, food and market unitll July 2, buca d’andrea, Fucecchio, Stato Libero dei Renai June 29-July 9, Lucignano e San Pancrazio, Handicraft market www.mareafestival.it, 21.00 This natural oasis offers numerous lakes, tel. 0571.6001 July 4 Montaione, info 0571699254, www. ponds, green areas, bird-watching spots, Summer at Demidoff Villa comune.montaione.fi .it Concerti al Parco Villa Solaria Free entrance concerts sport facilities, children’s games, a swim- Theatre, cinema and music shows Bugie-Lies with Andrea Kaemmerle Sesto Fiorentino, Tel 055.26.38.894, ming pool, etc June- September, Parco Mediceo di Prato- and Adriano Miliani info@lenozzedifi garo.it, 21.30 Until September 30, Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00, lino, Vaglia, tel. 055.409155 Music and theatre shows with food sampling Sat, Sun and holidays 9-20, free, Parco dei L’estate di S. Francesco Summer festival. Music, cinema, the- July 6, Castelfi orentino, Villa di Cambiano, Renai, Lastra a Signa, www.parcorenai.it atre shows info 0571 686338, www.comune.castelfi o- Music and performances on the Museum’s terrace n SPORTS & ACTIVITIES July and August, info 055819941 www.co- rentino.fi .it mune.fi renzuola.fi .it from June to August on Thursday, Terrazza National dog show The village on Thursday del Museo di S. Francesco, Greve in Chi- Un giovedì di mezza estate Shows in the centre June 27- July 2, Lago di Bilancino, tel. anti, tel. 055.8545271 055.8418133 Music, dance, shops open until midnight July 6, 13, 20, 27, Borgo S. Lorenzo, info Pontassieve, info Uffi cio Comunicazione 055 849661, www.comune.borgo-san- Onda Mediterranea 2006 Calenzano discovered, walks through Philip Catherine, Bert Joris, The Brussels 055 8360287, [email protected]. lorenzo.fi .it history and nature. fi .it Jazz Orchestra, “MEETING COLOURS” Guided walking tours Week-end of July 8-9 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, Pontassieve, from April to October, Calenzano, info Un giovedì di mezza estate Viale di notte. Handicraft, antique, sec- info 055 8360254, www.pontassievecultu- 055.8833255 See July 6 ra.it, 21,30 pm, 10€ ond-hand good market Bicinotturna n THEATRE (in Italian unless otherwise noted) fi rst and second week in July VINCI, Sovigli- Vivere Jazz Festival July 5, Night in Bike in the city (km. 15 trip) ana tel. 0571568012, www.comune.vinci. 30 june, Pontassieve, Piazza Vittorio Ema- Decamerone at the end watermelon, meeting 21.30 Pi- July 5, 21,30 Anfi teatro Centro Pecci, Viale fi .it nuele tel. 800414240, www.estatefi esola- azza del Comune Prato Info: Sig. Danilo tel. na.com della Repubblica 277, Info: 0574-1835021- Dante the Ghibelline. Traditional Festival 339.3477139 22 July 8, 9San Godendo info. 0558373826, L’estate di S. Francesco. Night sailing race www.comune.san-godenzo.fi .it Music and shows on the Museum’s ter- CCC - Il giardino italiano July 8 Barberino di Mugello, Lago di Bi- 6 to 8 July, 21,00, Cortile di Santa Caterina, Hobby Senio. Antique and collector race lancino tel. 0558418133, www.bilancino- from June to August on Thursday, Ter- P.zza S. Domenico 15, Info 0574-1835021- market lagoditoscana.it 22 July, August on Tuesday evening palazzuolo razza del Museo di S. Francesco info 0558545271, Greve, www.comune.greve- Duathlon competition Bisio e le Storie Tese e Elio sul senio tel. 0558046008, www.palaz- July 8, 9 Palazzuolo Piazza del Comune tel. zuolo.it in-chianti.fi .it Sesto Fiorentino, Tel 055.26.38.894, 0558046008, www.palazzuolo.it info@lenozzedifi garo.it, 21.30 14 Thursday 29 June 2006 www.thefl orentine.net UP CLOSE & PERSONAL

life, I’m a basketball fan. I root for the TF: How long does it take to get Clippers. in shape if you start with a normal An body? TF: Who have you trained? GP: What’s a normal body? Someone Interview GP: I’ve worked with Sylvester Stal- with an athletic background? Each per- lone, Penelope Cruz, Ben Affl eck, Jen- son is a case in and of themselves. It’s with nifer Lopez, Bruce Willis, Angelina Jolie, not just about exercise. It’s about water Monica Sellers… intake and the choices you make in your daily life. A person can see huge TF: Of all the celebrities you’ve changes in four, fi ve, six weeks. It’s not Gunnar worked with, who has been the about living like a priest, but you have most diffi cult to train? to want it. All the famous people I men- tioned before really wanted it. When Peterson GP: Anyone who has been sent there Jennifer Lopez started training with me, by their spouse! she would come to workout at fi ve in � the morning, before fi lming on the set The Florentine: What advice do TF: But if you were to name some- all day. you have for people who want to one specifi c? ‘Your body is your musical be physically fi t? TF: What does your typical day instrument and you have GP: Most recently, I’ve worked with look like? Gunnar Peterson: Well, the fi rst thing Christina Ricci. It’s not that she was dif- to play it.’ is to make the right choices at the table fi cult to work with, in terms of her per- GP: I go to bed at 8.30pm and get and get to enough rest. It’s best to time sonality, but she had been sent by her up at 3.00am. Some people think it’s one’s protein in-take throughout the day manager to get in shape for a movie. crazy, but I never said I was perfect! It unnar Peterson is a Beverly Hills- and eat small snacks every three hours, You can always tell when someone works for me. It sets me up to do the Gbased personal trainer whose cli- because that style of eating is easier comes by choice and when they are right thing everyday. I get up early so I ents include celebrities, professional on the digestive system. I also always forced to be there. It makes a huge dif- can work out. A lot of people say they athletes, and everyday people. He is recommend that people consume their ference. have no time to keep fi t. It’s a choice. widely recognized for his expertise in foods as close to their natural state as I work out one hour a day, every day. functional training, and his commitment possible. Fruits and vegetables should TF: What do you consider the Then during training sessions, I show to developing and implementing inno- be eaten early in the day. The same is most complete sport? clients two repetitions of each exercise. vative fi tness techniques. With a client true of complex carbohydrates, because I have a client who says that I am the list as diverse as his training methods, they provide long term energy. GP: It’s hard to say. You mean for car- best ‘two reps guy in the world.’ Gunnar emphasizes strength train- Mostly it’s about creating a healthy diovascular? Volleyball. Football. Boxing ing modalities that can be transferred lifestyle. You can exercise in front of the or martial arts are great for hand-to-eye TF: What do you think about from the gym to daily life, from train- TV if you want; you don’t have to go to co-ordination. Basketball also gives you doping? ing camp to championship. He has the gym necessarily. It’s about making a full body workout. Swimming is great, worked with athletes from the NBA, full use of your body. Your body is your but it’s hard for most people and it’s not GP: In an ideal world, it would be great NHL, NFL, USTA, professional boxing musical instrument and you have to play the best for burning body fat because to control drug use in sports. There are and various NCAA sports. Many fi lm it. Exercise improves the quality of life. being in the water cools you down. guys taking steroids as well as other and television celebrities who have Tennis is great too, but it depends at agents so that the steroids doesn’t sought Gunnar’s guidance in prepar- TF: Is there anything you tell your what level. For most people, tennis is show up in the test. Do I think doping ing for roles have then stayed on to clients to avoid? � anaerobic exercise. If you go to a tennis has increased recently? Yes, it has. But become devoted clients, making him lesson you get a much more complete I don’t think everyone is doing it. But a part of their regular fi tness regimen. GP: It’s not about avoidance. Cer- work out than if you’re playing a match then—we have to decide what you con- He is contributing editor for Glamour tainly, you don’t want to eat junk food with a friend. sider doping. Certain things are legal in and has a recurring feature in L.A in large quantities. But I never tell my When planning personalized work- some sports and illegal in others. Confi dential magazine. Gunnar is also clients not to eat something. If I say outs for my clients, I have them change regularly featured in Allure, Elle, In that, it makes people feel deprived and exercises all the time. Change keeps Style, In Touch, US Weekly and other get on the defensive. their minds engaged. It keeps their TF: How much does it cost to work magazines. His television appear- bodies guessing. I mean, the same with you? ances include The Today Show, CNN, TF: What’s your favourite physical types of exercises are in every work out, and CNN Headline News. activity? but you can change angles, the num- GP: Less than people end up paying in The Florentine had the opportunity ber of repetitions you do, the position medical bills when they don’t take care to interview Peterson during his recent GP: It’s hard to believe that there’s of an exercise in the work out. Even of themselves! visit to the International Fitness Festival anything more exciting than climbing slight change keeps people from get- held in Florence’s Fortezza da Basso. the wall of the Fortezza! But in everyday ting bored. 15 www.thefl orentine.net Thursday 29 June 2006 All of the articles found in the following pages are written by independent collaborators. The Florentine seeks to publish stories that are interesting, entertaining, and useful to all of our readers. If and when a writer expresses opinions within his or her work those opinions should be considered to be those of the writer and not necessarily those of the publishers of this Culture & CUSTOMS newspaper. If you wish to submit articles for consideration please contact us at redazione@thefl orentine.net.

ITALIAN VOICES: a window on language ‘In Italy, when we tease a and customs in Italy...‘prendere in giro’ person, it means we hold by Linda Falcone them in high regard.‘

unch at Lola’s is a true taste of Tuscan ‘Listen, Deep Love,’ I told my friend, ‘Don’t theatre. Everyday, my colleagues and I prendermi in giro too much. I’d much rather Lsqueeze in the door at half past twelve love you than fi ght you.’ in efforts to beat our neighbours to the corner ‘Oh Linda, sometimes you are quite slow table. The menu is written on a paper place- to understand,’ Giovanni grinned. ‘In Italy, mat and hung on the wall weekly, but if we all when we tease a person, it means we hold order different things Lola scolds us for bring- them in high regard. We consider them smart ing confusion to her brain. enough to capture the core of the joke. Intel- Food in Italy always brings about some sort ligent people can always face themselves of debate. Now that it’s summer, my colleague without offence.’ Giovanni has taken to ordering an ice-cream An entirely Italian concept, I found his sandwich after lunch. Half of it’s chocolate and reasoning quite profound and it got my mind the other half’s vanilla. There is always suspense ‘Actually, I always start with my best fl avour,’ I ticking. If translated literally, the expression ‘ti at the table before he tears open the wrapper. If mused. prendo in giro’ can be translated as ‘I take you he opens it on the chocolate side, it’s destined to ‘It must be an American thing. You come from around,’ which to me, sounds like an invitation be a good day. Vanilla fi rst brings bad luck. After the society of instant gratifi cation. You want what to see the city. It is an invitation in a way but, the fi ve days of continued dessert-induced suspense, you want and you want it fast,’ Giovanni told me. landscape you’ll be taken to see may surprise you. I fi nally asked him. ‘If you want to eat the other ‘Yes, and what I want right now is to kick you Ti prendo in giro implies a free tour of the true side fi rst, why don’t you just fl ip the ice-cream in the shins. Stop taking every word I say and you. Let your enemies be false to your face and around?’ making it into a cultural study on the American tell you your talents. In Italy, trust your friends to ‘Flip it around?’ my colleague asked, appalled mentality!’ tattle your truths. Ti prendo in giro, means they by the suggestion. You can’t manipulate il destino ‘Look who’s talking! You can dish it out but, are going to take you sight-seeing but, your weak- like that!’ you can’t take it, little Miss Italian Voices.’ nesses will be the monuments you’ll be forced to ‘Giovanni, it’s not destiny. It’s an ice-cream I frowned. ‘Are you being mean to me on pur- visit. Admittedly, it’s a bit of a torturous trip at sandwich.’ pose or are you doing it by accident?’ I asked. fi rst, but it can prove quite worthwhile once you ‘See!’ he said, slapping his hand on his knee. ‘Mean to you? I’m not being mean to you! Ti get the hang of it. Italians tease mercilessly. The ‘This is where I see you are American. Flip the prendo in giro. If I didn’t tease you a bit, you’d more merciless the ‘giro’ the deeper the bond. gelato! That would go against Italian fatalistic never know how deeply I love you.’ ‘Okay, Giova,’ I sigh, ‘Let’s pretend I get your principles. But, Americans are always convinced Intercultural relationships are never easy. But point. Teasing is a form of high regard. Va bene, I that they have the power to make a situation come today, we seemed to be having a particularly hard believe you. What I can’t believe is that you order out the way they want. You think you can have time. There are several elements of this exchange chocolate ice-cream everyday when you don’t control over the current of life’s events!’ that I fi nd worthy of discussion. But fi rst thing’s even like it. Why not choose the sandwich that ‘No. What I think is that you are completely fi rst. For those who are wondering, Giovanni, does only has vanilla?’ neurotic and should limit your caffeine intake.’ not, in fact, ‘love me deeply.’ At best, he thinks I’m ‘And miss out on the suspense? Suspense is My friend laughed. Odd as the conversation smart. At worst, he thinks I’m a pain in the neck. much more pleasurable than ice-cream, Linda, was, it was destined to become odder before our The feeling, of course, is mutual. Another day, I and if you’d open your mind, you’d know that.’ coffee was through. ‘Well, at least tell me why would make sure to inform him that English- ‘Let’s make a deal, Giovanni. I’ll open my “vanilla fi rst brings bad luck?”’ I wanted to know. speaking men would risk their inheritance if they mind, if you shut your mouth.’ ‘Because I like vanilla better and would prefer declared ‘deep love’ to a lady-colleague on lunch My colleague smiled. He loves it when I’m to eat it last.’ Everyone else at the table agreed. It’s break. Right then, though, I wanted to talk about mean to him. In Italy, it’s just more proof of ‘lov- always best to fi nish with one’s favourite. teasing. ing deeply’.

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Forza Azzurri!!! Watching the World Cup through ‘Blue’ eyes By Leo Cardini

e all know that in the Bel- mated football arguments at a bar, exceptions and special cases. Take, paese, football is a funda- they always keep to the sidelines. for example, my friend Marcellino, Wmental part of everyday You can recognize them by their otherwise known as ‘Sintesis’ for his life, 365 days a year, 24 hours a slightly raised eyebrows. Gli sportivi incredible capacity to take at least day. There is, however a segment of are generally in total disagreement 45 minutes to tell you that tomorrow the Italian population that remains with all of the coaches’ decisions. it might rain. He is beyond doubt the entirely untouched by this national Always ready to praise the heroic most ignorant person I know regard- disease. First, there are the wives acts of the ‘Italian heroes’ in case ing soccer. I’d bet money that he and children of those guys who of victory, they are equally eager couldn’t even guess how many play- spend all their time at the stadium. the morning. Friends are allowed to offend those ‘spoiled rich fools’ ers make up a team. But Marcello Traumatized by their fathers’ soc- to watch the game with him—but no if the Nazionale team loses. Defeat is a real professional when it comes cer-induced Dr. Jeckyll and Mr. more than two at a time and only will often cause a sportivo to smile. to the very Italian art of courting Hyde transformation each Sunday, those rigorously chosen. He leaves He knew it all along. And with an women, so during the World Cup they choose to practice a different the telephone off the hook, has a air of superiority, he’ll tell you so: ‘I you’ll fi nd him dressed like Ronald- sport. Then, there are the artists and beer during the fi rst half, and another knew things would end up this way. inho at the Brasilian fan-club party, intellectuals who don’t want to mix in the second. He watches football It was clear from the very beginning. dancing the Samba at the Cascine. with the mass of desperate fans who with an expert eye and doesn’t root It’s impossible to win with a team Or when the USA plays, you’ll fi nd suffer profound moral dilemmas for anyone in particular. A master like this one.’ Then he’ll continue by him in front of the maxi screen in over eleven guys in shorts running of objectivity, il Professionista pro- listing all the details of his ‘personal Piazzale Michelangelo wrapped in after a ball. fesses loyalty to the motto ‘may the training plan’ which undoubtedly an American fl ag, squeezed between But every four years, the miracle best man win.’ Usually that means would have brought the Blue team two girls from California. repeats itself. The moment of the Brazil. Il Professionista has been to World Cup triumph and victory. In the end, this too, is passion. World Cup arrives and the Nazio- a fan of his favourite team (in this In addition to these four cat- And that, after all, is what the World nale Azzurra runs out onto the fi eld, case the Fiorentina) since before he egories, there are certainly other Cup is all about. and even those ‘desaparecidos’ was born. who claim to be allergic to foot- The third group is made up of the ball, fi nd themselves a spot on the tifosi, people who normally watch crowded sofa to watch the match. If football throughout the year. When the neighbourhood bar hangs up a the World Cup comes to town, they white sheet on which to project the become virtually possessed by the game, these impromptu fans fl ock Blue Devil and enter into a cata- there for drinks and sudden soccer tonic state for the entire Italian thrills. Otherwise, they go see the adventure. They dress their children match in the town’s main square, in Totti’s jersey and take two days ����������������������������������������������� ready to use the central fountain as off work when Italy plays. They send ������������������������ a swimming pool should the Blue their wives to the seaside, happy for team lasso an unexpected victory. once to pay for their mother-in-laws’ The ‘desaparicidos’ try and keep hotel stay. I tifosi are those who love themselves well-hidden, or heav- to watch the game in the company ily masked with shirts, wigs and of anywhere from 20 to 200 peo- hats (all blue, of course) in hopes ple. They are prone to organizing of not being recognized. Still, they numerous dinner parties in honour are there. And their passion for the of the Blue team—usually at other game is complete. people’s houses. Then they show up Then there are the professionisti, with cases of beer, new year’s eve true professional fans, like my friend horns and a giant fl ag to hang from Alessandro, the person with whom the windowsill. I tifosi park their I’ve had the privilege of sharing scooters at their host’s door, ready the last few World Cup matches. Il to zip out into the celebratory traf- Workshop, Show Rooms and classes Professionista watches every single fi c frenzy that occurs in event of a World Cup match. If there’s a game win. This type of World Cup junkie ���������������������������� is probably the most numerous of on while he’s at work, he videotapes ���������������������������� it. It’s just too easy to save one’s the four. enthusiasm for Italy, the conven- Another interesting category ���� ����������� �������� ���� tional Brazilian team or Argentina. of soccer fans is gli sportivi. They ���������� ���� ������������ Il Professionista even gets excited possess a profound knowledge of ����������������������������� about the unwatchable 0-0 match football (so they say) and delight in ��������������������������� between Liechtenstein and the Far maintaining a level of cool detach- Oer Islands, broadcast at two in ment towards the game. During ani- �������������������������� ���� ���� �������� ��� ���� ���������

�������������������������������������������������������������������������������������� ������������������������������������� ��������������������������������������������������������� 17 www.thefl orentine.net Life in Italy Thursday 29 June 2006 Culture & CUSTOMS Raindrops kept falling The birth of the Tuscan cigar By Deirdre Pirro

‘The Toscano, or Tuscan cigar, is the most popular cigar in Italy. It not only com- mands an 80-percent share of the market, but it has also generated a series of off- spring, like the smaller Toscanello.’

moking is politically incorrect these days, Florence, a bale of Kentucky tobacco leaves - a cal to another in size and shape. They ensure that but there will always be the die-hards and high quality variety of tobacco grown in Italy - suffi cient space is left for air to pass by not pack- Srebels. Cigar smokers are among such free was left out in the open. Caught in an unexpected ing the tobacco too tightly which would prevent spirits. They consider themselves the royalty of downpour of rain, the leaves got wet and started the cigars from “drawing” properly. An expert smokers and will go to extraordinary lengths to to ferment. Not wishing to make too great a loss cigar maker can roll over 500 cigars a day. satisfy their habit – even risking fi nes or impris- on this mishap, the wily factory manager decided Next the cigars are placed on trays and put onment in America if caught buying or smuggling to dry out what he could of the fermenting leaves in special chambers to dry out. Finally, with this the outlawed though much loved Cuban cigar. and turn them into cheap cigars. To further save process complete, they are left to ‘age’ in cel- But lovers of Cuban cigars are not the only money, he only used tobacco fi ller inside a sin- lars, much like good wine, where they mature for ‘purists.’ Italy has its very own breed. In fact, Italy gle Kentucky outer leaf to make the cigars. He a period of not less than four months and some- is the most important tobacco producing country then simply put a band around them (now in times as long as 12 months. Only then are they in Europe and has long boasted its own distinctive the colours of the Italian fl ag) instead of covering ready for sale at your local tobacconist. cigar industry. According to a report published in them with a wrapper, which today is still one On March 10 of this year, in a deal worth 95 2003 by the Tobacco Observatory, tobacco crops of their characteristics. They became known as million euro, the manufacturers of the Toscano, cover approximately 37,000 acres of land in Italy Toscani and were an overnight success. Soon the the Italian subsidiary of British American - mainly in Veneto, Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio and king, Vittorio Emanuele II, and even Garibaldi Tobacco, sold the brand back to Italian propri- Campagna - producing approximately 125,000 were smoking them. etors, the Bologna-based Maccaferri Group. The tons of tobacco, just under 2 percent of global In 1818, regular production of the Toscani was tobacco processing plant in Forano della Chiana production. transferred to the tobacco factory in Lucca, then and the production factories in Lucca and Cava The Toscano, or Tuscan cigar, is the most part of the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. Processing de Tirreni were included in the agreement. While popular cigar in Italy. It not only commands an and production methods have changed very little the transaction still has to be approved by the 80-percent share of the market, but it has also since then. When farmers harvest the tobacco, Italian Government and the competition watch- generated a series of offspring, like the smaller they hang the leaves in rows and slowly dry them dog, no problems are anticipated. Toscanello. Made even more famous by being out over the heat and smoke from fi res. The dried clinched between Clint Eastwood’s teeth in his leaves are then sorted and bundled together, ready many spaghetti westerns, the Toscano is tradition- to be sold. On reaching the factory in Lucca, the Deirdre Pirro is an Australian lawyer who has lived ally tapered in shape, while a panatella about six leaves are immersed in water to restore humidity and worked in Florence for many years. Apart from inches in length, with a uniquely strong fl avour which allows them to be transformed into cigars, and rich aroma. either completely by hand (for the best quality her general practice, she is currently working on a book As fact is often more mysterious than fi ction, products) or partially by machine. on particular aspects of art law and she dedicates much the Toscano was fi rst produced and given its Traditionally, women cigar makers hand roll of her time to environmental protection. She also has name by pure accident over a century and a half the Toscani. After 18 months of training, they a special interest in food and its history, particularly in ago. One summer day at the tobacco factory in acquire the skill to make one cigar almost identi- relation to popular customs and traditions.

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With a history that spans 60 Catching Vespa fever years, the Vespa has come to represent liberty and free dom Taking a spin on the scooter that stings to more than one generation. Helen Bond celebrates the By Helen Bond Vespa’s birthday with a look into why the motor scooter y fi rst trip to Italy was sink. And through the introduc- is as inspirational and vibrant in 1994, when I was tion of part payments, Enrico M18. It was my fi rst holi- Piaggio ensured that the Vespa con vespa now as it was back in 1946. day without my family. Just me reached as far into society as and my friends. The trip was an it could. Here was a relatively si puó escape, and Italy was the perfect low cost, economical, practical place to come for a taste of life, vehicle which would get you to learn that your time is to be to work (without oil stains on savoured, enjoyed, sometimes your beautifully pressed panta- con vespa risked and at all costs, lived. loni) and much further, should And the thing that summed this you wish. si puó up, that enchanted and roman- After the economic and ticised my 18 year old eyes and political destruction of World ears wasn’t the talk of gladi- War II, the Vespa offered Italy ators in the Coliseum, or the a bright, beautifully-designed con vespa awed silence surrounding the and -engineered buzz of opti- si puó David; it wasn’t the charm of the Italian men, or mism. Move from the 40s to the 50s and you fi nd the beauty of the sunset over the Ponte Vecchio. the Vespa freeing Hepburn’s incognito princess The thing that made me want to strike out on my to fall in love with Gregory Peck. You glimpse own two feet, that which captured the essence of Charlton Heston on his Vespa during time out Italy and spurred my teenage yearning for inde- from fi lming Ben Hur, not to mention a role for con vespa pendence with a buzzing, energetic sting—was the little ‘wasp’ in a host of Italian fi lms, includ- si puó the Vespa. ing La Notte Brava and Bellissima. This dazzling demonstration of Italian design In the 1960s, the Vespa represented the search has come to epitomise so many things, to so many for liberty and the aspirations of a generation ited to that of a pillion passenger, weaving in and generations over the last 60 years, that it’s diffi cult seeking release from the stifl ing hardships of out of traffi c with that Italian grace in impatience to know where to begin. When I mentioned my everyday life. Gilberto Filippetti’s advertising that I would never be able to muster myself with plan to write about Vespas to my godmother, she slogan ‘Chi “Vespa” mangia le mele’ (or ‘He who my clumsy Anglo-Saxon irritability. But even as immediately exclaimed with whimsical enthusi- “Vespas” eats apples’) grabbed the imagination of a passenger a vibrancy is present, a thrill and asm how much she loved her two-wheeled friend those under 30, enticing Italian youth to ‘Vespa’ energy coursing through the veins like morning’s in the 60’s. (This stunned me, as it’s always hard with all its connotations of forbidden fruits, fi rst shot of espresso. to imagine your parents’ generation as lively and golden apples, the ‘Big Apple’ of America. On Back in 1994 Italy captured my 18-year-old energetic as your own.) When I asked her what into the 70’s and the Piaggio production line suf- heart and showed me what there was fun to be the Vespa meant to her, her reply was the same as fered as much as the next from the oil crisis. But had and how life was to be lived. And today I all those who I’d asked before: ‘freedom’. Free- still the Vespa held on to its roots as it became envy the Italian youth, because what better way dom to go where she wanted, freedom from the linked to women’s liberation, opening up oppor- is there to navigate life than accompanied by the home, freedom to visit the coast or the city, to tunities for freedom of expression, creativity and buzz of the Vespa? meet whom she wanted when she wanted. most importantly female independence. Back when it was launched in 1946, the Vespa In 1980, a record 815,000 two-wheelers were became synonymous with a host of other free- sold, but just three years later this number had doms too. Vespa meant a glimpse of potential halved, and it wasn’t until the 1990s that sales Helen Bond has been attempting to satiate her appe- economic freedom in a post war era, a release began to recover, reaching 300,000 in 1999. tite for all things Italian since January. Despite returning from a life of farm labor for those who came to Finally, the year 2000 saw the opening of the to Oxford, England in May she continues to study Ital- be employed at the Piaggio factory in Pontedera. Giovanni Alberto Agnelli Piaggio Museum in ian and is currently trying to grasp the past conditional For many Italian women, the right to vote (fi rst Pontedera. When a scooter gets a museum you tense whilst dreaming of returning from the spires of granted in Italy in 1948) coincided with the know you have an undisputed classic on your Oxford to the spires of Florence. introduction of this tidy little two-wheeler, who hands. For information visit www.museopiaggio. virtually untied their hands from the kitchen com. Now, in 2006, my Vespa experience is lim-

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The ARTS

‘Passion For Life’ International art exhibition supports cancer research By Lynn Davis Irises in morning light, Antoine Gaber ne of the best things about Florence in the summer Omonths is being able to be out and about with events, concerts recent times, the church has had to and Renaissance greats. The dates and exhibitions; there is always an undergo reconstructions after sev- for the exhibitions in the Diocesan array of things going on to do and eral unfortunate events: it was dam- Museum of Santo Stefano are from see. Here’s an idea for something to aged extensively during World War July 1-30 and then from September do while you’re roaming the streets, II from mines when the bridges and 15 to October 14. The museum is looking to get away from the heat buildings surrounding the Ponte free to enter and is open every day and fl ocks of people: pop your head Vecchio were bombed. Later, it was from 11 am to 1 pm and 4 pm until into the church of Santo Stefano, again damaged in the fl ood of 1966, 8 pm. just a stone’s throw from the Ponte which left virtually nothing in the The rest of the exhibition will be Vecchio, and there in the Chiostro historical centre escape unharmed. held on the elegant terrace of the Museo Diocesano (the Diocesan San Stefano al Ponte was also partly Hotel Baglioni in Piazza dell’Unità Museum of Sacred Art) you will damaged by the bomb that was set Italiana from September 1-30. The fi nd an exhibition of international off near the Uffi zi Gallery in via dei terrace is also free to enter and open contemporary artworks as part of Georgofi li in 1993. The Diocesan every day from 5 pm, which by the the programme, ‘Passion for Life’. 20 years, and since 1999 has been Museum of the church was opened way, also conveniently coincides Between June and October, this using his artwork as a way to raise in 1995, and holds works of sacred with Happy Hour for an aperitif. series of exhibitions will be shown awareness and funds for cancer. Italian art and includes important For more information on Antoine in Santo Stefano’s Museum, as well Amongst the artists in the exhibi- artists such as Giotto, Pisano, Paolo Gaber’s programme “Passion for as at the Grand Hotel Baglioni. tions following Gaber’s, you will Ucello and Filippo Lippi. It is here Life”, visit the website: www.antoin- The idea for ‘Passion for Life’ fi nd the works of Polish photogra- in the heart of the historic centre egaber.com, or for more informa- was developed by the Canadian pher Andrezej Jerzy Lech, who cre- of Florence that this exhibition will tion on the exhibitions you can call artist, Antoine Gaber, to support ates timeless black and white pho- share its space with these Medieval 055/292082. cancer research. A percentage of tographs of city-scapes, while the the sales not only of his works Japanese artist Sumio Inoue uses themselves but other works online, photography to create dark, atmo- such as catalogues, reproductions spheric images printed with photo of works, even postcards, will go emulsion on Japanese paper – dark towards breast cancer research. The church interiors emerge out of the artworks in “Passion for Life” range fi bres of the paper almost looking from sculpture to digital art to paint- like paintings rather than photo- ing in a range of styles, and include graphs. The work of Dutch artist artists from all over the world from Jackie Sleper is an interesting mix Korea to Mexico to Brazil. Actually of painting, photography and other shown as a series of exhibitions, with media to create colourful and fanci- Antoine Gaber starting off with his ful artworks of animals and children own solo show, the other seventeen in fairytale-like worlds. artists will be showing their works ‘Passion for Life’ is a gallant in groups of two or three up until gesture that intertwines beauty October. and a good cause, set in the back- Antoine Gaber’s work can be drop of one of Florence’s histori- described as ‘Post-Impressionist’ cal churches. The ex-convent of with paintings that are reminiscent Santo Stefano al Ponte, which of the works of Monet and Van sits in between the Ponte Vecchio Gogh. He has been dedicating his and the Uffi zi Gallery, dates back time to cancer research for the last to the early twelfth century. In

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Duomo, Siena an art gallery featuring all the greats Siena: city of colour of Sienese Gothic painting and the Palazzo Piccolomini, the state archive museum where you will fi nd A visit to Florence’s favourite enemy the Biccherna tablets. These beau- tiful and interesting pieces of art By Alison Conlon were used as the covers for the city’s Effects of Good Government on the City Life, Ambrogio Lorenzetti - Palazzo Pubblico accounts books from the thirteenth century onwards and are perfect for those interested in both history and art – as is the whole of Siena.

Photo by Alison Conlon

brightly-coloured sixteenth century frescos by Pinturicchio, celebrating the life of Pius II. If during all this touring, you need sustenance, head down the hill to Le Campane Ristorante, at Via delle Campane 6, just off one of the main thoroughfares, Via de Città. They serve fabulous Sienese food, so take time to enjoy dishes like the pasta iena has a more insular and because they were unable to leave with wild boar sauce, pecorino-fi lled less forthcoming atmosphere the Palazzo Pubblico during their ravioli and roasted meats. And if, (Please note that the best way to get after all that pasta, you still have the Sthan Florence – but it’s one term of offi ce, which usually lasted to Siena from Florence is by bus, you defi nitely should get to know. If two months. The views of the mar- energy to continue, further sightsee- which takes just over an hour and you have little time to spend in the ket square and surrounding area are ing recommendations include Santa city, use it wisely by wandering the beautiful but if you are unafraid of Maria della Scala, the medieval pil- stops right in the centre of the city, in steep and twisting streets, viewing heights then you really should climb grim hospital opposite the Duomo Piazza Matteotti. Buses depart from the numerous palazzi, the Duomo, the 503 steps of the Torre del Man- that is now open for everyone to Florence at the bus station on Via the Campo, churches and shops gia. Looking down on to the wind- view the frescos which until the Santa Caterina, next to the railway fi lled with local produce. ing streets of this medieval, orange- 1980s were only visible to the ill. station of Santa Maria Novella.) But it is best to spend at least coloured city is amazing, before Or visit the Pinacoteca Nazionale, one day visiting some of the muse- your eyes drift over the rolling hills ums. First stop on anyone’s list of the Tuscan countryside. should be the shell-shaped Campo Another vantage point is the that is the heart of Siena and the Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana, or place where the famous horse race, more precisely, a section of the ‘new’ the Palio, happens twice a year. In Duomo, which was to be an exten- what is claimed to be most beauti- sion of the old one. Building started ful piazza in Italy, you will fi nd the in 1339 to celebrate the success of Palazzo Pubblico and the Torre del Siena, as well as make the cathedral Mangia – as well as numerous cafés bigger and better than the recently- and restaurants vying for the tour- began Duomo of Florence. Unfortu- ists’ cash. Ignore the prices and sit nately, the Black Death came along down with a coffee, enjoying the in 1348, wiping out more than half view for 15 minutes before making of the population. It caused such your way into the Museo Civico in chaos for the political regime that the palace. never again did Siena reach such Begun in 1297, the Palazzo Pub- heights. The new Duomo was never blico is a monument to Siena’s past fi nished and remains a constant achievements. Not only beautiful to reminder of the city’s failure. The look at on the outside, inside you façade is a much easier climb than will fi nd some of the most impor- the Torre del Mangia and defi nitely tant pieces of Siena’s art history. worth the effort for the sea of roof In the Sala della Pace is Ambrogio tiles that awaits you at the top, as Lorenzetti’s triumph, The Allegory well as a perfect view of the Palazzo of Good and Bad Government, Pubblico. The rest of the museum which was painted in 1338 and was features numerous pieces of beauti- there to remind the ruling council ful Sienese art, including Duccio’s of what they should and shouldn’t monumental Maestà. Visitors can be doing. Therefore, on one wall appreciate a double-sided altarpiece the fresco shows a thriving city that painted in the early 1300s; on com- is clearly Siena, where people are pletion it was paraded through the working at all trades and the land town in triumph before being placed outside the city walls thrives. On the on the high altar of the Duomo. opposite wall, there is Bad Govern- From the museum, head into the ment, with a city ruled by a demon, Duomo itself, which is strikingly where thieves thrive and everyone decorated with zebra-striped bands looks after themselves rather than of black and white marble. Once working together for the common inside, look out for Nicola Pisano’s good. Other highlights in the pala- pulpit of 1269, the marble pave- zzo include a fabulous Maestà by ment featuring 56 panels crafted Simone Martini and two chapels over 200 years by almost every art- painted by Taddeo di Bartolo. ist who worked in the city. Then Don’t miss climbing up the steps look for what I consider the cathe- to the Loggia, where the Council dral’s crowning glory, the Piccolo- of Nine used to get some fresh air mini Library, which has a series of 21 www.thefl orentine.net Life in Italy Thursday 20 April 2006 Travel & LEISURE The Palio: ready, set, go painting by Cathy Gale A medieval horse race brings Siena alive By Kara Hoffman

ummer in Siena means the Palio – a famed historic horse race run each year on July 2 and Aug. 16. The Palio tradition dates back S th to the 11 century, when the race was initiated to honor the Madonna dell’Assunta, patroness and advocate of Siena, for her protection of the Sienese ‘When the winning militia in their battles against the Florentines. horse crosses the The main players of the Palio are the city’s 17 contrade, or neighborhoods, as designated back fi nish line (with or in the middle ages. The contrade formerly served without the jockey a military function, though through the years the militaristic aspects have disappeared and the con- on its back) the trade now function as multiple tight-knit commu- Piazza del Campo nities within the city. Each contrada of Siena has its own government, coat of arms, emblem and erupts in pandemo- colors. Today rivalries run high among contrade. nium – in shouts, Some advise, for instance, against marrying out- side one’s contrada, as it is likened to breaking a songs, and tears.‘ birthright. These rivalries culminate at the Palio. While the actual race lasts just over a minute, the plan- the Piazza, known as the curve of San Martino. has been offi cially closed, approximately three ning and festivities leading up to the dropping of This 95-degree angle has been the site of nearly hours before the start of the race. The piazza is the rope on July 2 and Aug. 16 last for months. 60 percent of the accidents that have happened in then sealed off until after the race is completed, Each year, April 26 marks the opening of parade the past 20 years. signifying no bathroom breaks and limited acces- season. Each contrada– porcupine, goose, giraffe, After the horses are assigned, the days are fi lled sibility to water and other liquids. snail and eagle, to name a few–celebrates its with six trial runs, on-going celebrations and, the Seconds before the race begins, loud shouts patron saint with a lively and colorful procession night before the race, a fi nal rehearsal dinner. and competing songs of rival contrade fi ll the air. throughout the streets of Siena. Each contrada lays out rows of tables 50-feet long Jockeys riding bareback, or a pelo, work to line up For each Palio race, only 10 of the 17 contrade in the street, and local restaurateurs serve bottom- the horses, making last minute deals with other are chosen to participate. On the day of the tratta, less bowls of pasta, platters of an assorted meats, jockeys to outsmart fi erce rivals while waiting or the offi cial drawing of the horses, 10 horses and jugs of wine during the estimated 25,000 din- for offi cials to signal the race’s start. False starts are selected and assigned to the participating con- ers. often plague the beginning and when the rope is trade–luck playing a large role in the process. For On the mornings of July 2 and Aug. 16, antici- fi nally dropped, the race is over before the blink the next four days, fi erce competition dominates pation and excitement fi lls the streets of Siena of an eye. as the contrade begin preparing for the Palio. and fazzoletti, or the colorful scarves of each con- When the winning horse crosses the fi nish line During these fi nal crucial days, Siena’s breath- trada, are proudly tied around the necks of both (with or without the jockey on its back) the Piazza taking Piazza del Campo is transformed into the young and old. A fi nal trial run is then held. The del Campo erupts in pandemonium – in shouts, offi cial race track, the perimeter ring being cov- horses are taken to the participating contrada’s songs, and tears. The winning contrada fl oods the ered by a layer of dirt and sand. The length of the church for a benediction. The fi nal parade and racetrack in celebration, having earned bragging circle is .21 of a mile and the race entails three procession begins as the Piazza del Campo fi lls rights for the coming year. loops around the campo, equaling .66 of a mile in with revellers from near and far. The seats and total. The race typical lasts a minute and a half, bleachers that have been erected all around the give or take 10 seconds. track host the 33,000 ticket holders are lucky This year the Palio will be held on: The race’s death-defying speeds require exter- enough to have a seat. Every window, balcony Sunday, July 2, 2006 at 7:30 nal and internal barricades and protective pad- and loggia is fi lled and the center of the piazza Wednesday, August 16, 2006 at 7:00 ding in specifi c areas. The most dangerous of is fi lled with nearly 50,000 brave souls willing to For more information visit www.ilpalio.org these areas is the curve at the front right area of be “trapped” inside the piazza once the entrance

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Robert later insisted that ness history fi rsthand. She admits ‘I HEARD last night a little child so singing they be published – as that she might be optimistic, but she ’Neath Casa Guidi windows, by the church, translations to disguise prefers “to sing with these who are O bella libertà, O bella!—stringing how personal they were. awake /with birds, with babes, with He wrote later “I dared men who will not fear…” In the sec- The same words still on notes he went in search not reserve to myself the ond part of Casa Guidi Windows, So high for, you concluded the upspringing fi nest sonnets written written 1849-50, she laments the Of such a nimble bird to sky from perch in any language since dashing of her hopes for freedom, Must leave the whole bush in a tremble green, Shakespeare’s”. following the entrance of the hated And that the heart of Italy must beat, The Italy they came Austrian forces from the north into to was in rapid fl ux. It Florence. While such a voice had leave to rise serene was a divided land – the While some of Elizabeth’s politi- ’Twixt church and palace of a Florence street: Austrians ruling in the cal ideals were naïve, she was emo- A little child, too, who not long had been north, the Spaniards tionally and intellectually engaged By mother’s fi nger steadied on his feet, oppressing the south, an with Italian events – Casa Guidi And still O bella libertà he sang.’ Austrian Grand Duke, Windows, indeed, was published lizabeth and Robert Brown- Leopold, ruling Tuscany from the simultaneously in English and Ital- ing arrived in Italy in 1846 Palazzo Pitti, and the Pope holding ian translation in 1851. She is still JULIET OF NATIONS, Casa Guidi Windows Efollowing a secret marriage Rome and the surrounding lands. remembered in Italy for her part in in London. For Elizabeth, coming Elizabeth followed the struggles of championing the ideals of the Risor- to Florence was a merciful release. the Risorgimento – the movement to As an invalid, she revelled in the unify and bring freedom to Italy. In air, “so much lighter and more elas- her poem Casa Guidi Windows, she British Institute, Lungarno Guicciardini 9 tic” than the smog of London. And celebrates the civic liberties granted Wednesday 5 July more, she was escaping the claus- by the Grand Duke: “I heard last At 15.00, reading of Casa Guidi Windows (See review) trophobic brutality of her father’s night a little child go singing / ‘Neath At 17.00 visit to Casa Guidi, house of the Brownings house – her father felt betrayed by Casa Guidi windows, by the church / At 18.00 Lecture: the secret love affair, and afterwards ‘O Bella Liberta, O Bella!’” On their cut off all ties with her. The Brown- fi rst wedding anniversary, Elizabeth 200th Anniversary of the birth of Elizabeth Barrett Browning ings’ courtship was immortalised in and Robert had watched the peo- Sister Julia Bolton Holloway is Professor Emerita of Medieval Stud- Elizabeth’s secretly written Sonnets ple’s procession of celebration pass ies at the University of Colorado, Boulder, previously custodian of the From the Portuguese: “How Do I beneath their house near Piazza San Browning’s Casa Guidi house in Florence and custodian of the cem- love thee? Let me count the ways! Felice. The poem reveals Elizabeth’s etery in Piazzale Donatello, known as the ‘English Cemetery’, where / I love thee to the depth & breadth excitement as a lifelong invalid who the Brownings lie buried. & height / My Soul can reach…” suddenly has the opportunity to wit-

BOOK REVIEW Poetry along Title: PERCORSO GUIDATO the silver river The Guide to Florence with exercises and activities for students of Italian as Cultural events on the Arno a foreign language

Ideal for pre-intermediate level students of Italian, The Guide to Florence is a new and useful tool for those who study Italian as a foreign language. It is divided into short July 10-12, 24-25 chapters, complete with exercises and exercise Love stories and comedy shows inspired by the Divine Comedy key, illustrations, and comments that relate to particular texts and information on Florentine will be playing all summer aboard the antique sand boats of language use. Its aim is to serve as a practical the Renaioli rowers. The show ‘Come in America’ by Manuela guide which provides answers to questions Critelli, will be preformed by actors Silvia Giudi and Fabio Mas- regarding cultural aspects of everyday life in cagni who will interpret a ‘backwards’ version of the story of Italy. The guide also helps learners develop The Inferno’s Paolo and Francesca. vocabulary useful for a holiday in Florence. This guide can be used as a supplement to a course book in class or be enjoyed in its own June 29, July 17-19, 31 right by students who live either in or outside Navigate on the Arno from Ponte alle Grazie to Ponte alla Car- Italy. raia, and enjoy the river’s natural beauty and a unique view of Bonacci editore Lungarno’s most beautiful palazzos. Onboard, feast your ears on Via Paolo Mercuri 8 the Venturino Camaiti burlesque and humorous verses inspired Author: S. du Bessé 00193 Roma by Dante, Florence’s divine poet. Boats leave at 9:30 pm from ISBN: 88-7573-360-0 Tel: 06/68300004 the ‘porticciola’ in Piazza Mentana. Tickets cost 20 euro. Price: 5.20 euro Fax: 06/69966382 Pages: 80 [email protected] For more information call 055/50000640. www.bonacci.it ***All shows will be preformed in Italian. 23 www.thefl orentine.net Useful Numbers and Classifi ed Ads Thursday 29 June 2006 Classifi ed ADS

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