E C O V O L U N T E E R P R O J E C T

E C O V O L U N T E E R E X P E R I E N C E

Field research on H U M P B A C K W H A L E S Caravelas, Bahia, B R A Z I L

2010

Auspices & co-operation: INSTITUTO BALEIA JUBARTE ECOVOLUNTEER PROGRAM

You can freely download this project file and files on other projects from the homepage for this project within the Ecovolunteer website: http://www.ecovolunteer.org/ (or from the national ecovolunteer domains).

As it is necessary for participants in this project to be able to communicate in English (or Portuguese), this text is provided only in English.

The text of this brochure is developed in cooperation with the project staff. Annually, under the supervision of the staff the text is updated. Nevertheless you may experience some changes in the field compared to the brochure text. It is inherent to wildlife research programs that during the operations incidentally changes are necessary because of unexpected results, bad weather conditions, behaviour by the wildlife, etc. Be prepared for such changes. (Last update January 2010)

Please help us: If you happen to find any of the information below no longer to be valid, or when you have useful additions, then kindly report so to: Ecovolunteer Program: [email protected]. That way we shall be able to provide better information to future participants.

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 1 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org Contents

PREFACE ...... 5

1 HUMPBACK WHALES ...... 6

2 THE HUMPBACK WHALE INSTITUTE IN BRAZIL ...... 7

3 HOW YOU CAN HELP ...... 8

4 CARAVELAS ...... 9 4.1 The Abrolhos Bank and the humpback whales ...... 9 4.2 The Caravelas program ...... 10

5 PRACTICAL TRAVEL INFORMATION ...... 12 5.1 Period ...... 12 5.2 Prices ...... 12 5.3 Date ...... 12 5.4 Participants ...... 12 5.5 Included in the price ...... 12 5.6 Not included in the price ...... 13 5.7 Flights ...... 13 5.8 Insurances ...... 13 5.9 Conditions for participation ...... 13 5.10 Swimming and snorkelling ...... 14 5.11 Money ...... 14 5.12 Photo / film ...... 14

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 2 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 5.13 Attainability ...... 14

6 ABROLHOS ARCHIPELAGO AND THE CORAL REEFS ...... 15 6.1 What is coral? ...... 15 6.2 What is a coral reef? ...... 15 6.3 Where are coral reefs found? ...... 16 6.4 Is coral vulnerable? ...... 16 6.5 Why is coral important? ...... 16 6.6 Why is coral important? ...... 16

7 ADVICE ON PERSONAL TRAVELLING NECESSITIES ...... 17

8 LITERATURE ...... 19 8.1 On humpback whales ...... 19 8.2 On whales in Brazil ...... 19 8.3 Recommended guides on cetaceans: ...... 19 8.4 Some interesting (semi-) scientific articles ...... 19

9 GUIDELINES FOR OBSERVATION ...... 21

10 SOME RULES OF CONDUCT ...... 23

11 SOME USEFUL WORDS AND EXPRESSIONS ...... 24

12 PRACTICAL TIPS ...... 29 12.1 Electricity ...... 29 12.2 Special days ...... 29 12.3 Tips ...... 29 12.4 Inoculations ...... 29 12.5 Medical services ...... 29

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 3 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 12.6 Climate ...... 30 12.7 Money ...... 30 12.8 Opening hours ...... 30 12.9 Passport and visa ...... 30 12.10 Prices ...... 30 12.11 Language ...... 31 12.12 Tax-free shopping ...... 31 12.13 Telephone ...... 31 12.14 E-mail ...... 31 12.15 Time ...... 31 12.16 Safety ...... 31 12.17 Water ...... 31

13 YOUR PARTICIPATION CLIMATE NEUTRAL ...... 32

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 4 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org PREFACE

This project offers you a unique opportunity to work with the most charming giant of the sea, the humpback whale. Fortunately, these friendly, social and inquisitive animals have not lost their trust in humans after centuries of whaling and you will be able to observe them from up close. When you participate in this project, you support the protection of these whales with your time, your energy, and your donation. At the same time, you will see the humpback whales in their natural environment and a specialist will accompany you to tell you everything there is to know about these beautiful animals. During your stay at the project, you will be in the middle of the richest coral reefs system in the South Atlantic Ocean. A small converted fishing boat or a schooner is used for the research and in your time off, depending on the route, you can swim amidst the coral reefs and turtles!

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 5 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 1 HUMPBACK WHALES

Humpback whales (Megaptera novaeangliae) are large baleen whales: one of the five largest species of cetaceans in the world. These friendly, sluggish moving giants of the sea can be up to 16 meters long and can weigh over 40 thousand kilograms. The name Megaptera refers to their large, long pectoral fins which measure about a third of their total body length; no other whale species has such long fins. The second name, novaeangliae, refers to the waters of New England, where this species used to be found in large numbers and was first described. Humpback whales have a very dark grey skin with white parts on their throat and on the lower sides of their body, fins and tail. These black and white patterns on the flukes are like a personal fingerprint; every individual has its own pattern and can be recognised by it. The females (cows) are usually slightly larger than the males. Humpback whales reach puberty at the age of two to four years and are sexually mature after four to seven years. When they are ten to twelve years old, they are fully grown. The maximum lifespan of these whales is not (yet) known. When you see a humpback whale for the first time, the size of the head, which is about one third of the body size, is the most striking feature. Their eyes are as large as oranges and as these animals are very inquisitive, it is not easy to determine who's watching who! On the upper and lower jaw, you can clearly distinguish the sensory nodules or tubercles, lumps the size of a golf ball. The amount and pattern of these lumps differs between individuals. In each lump there is a hair follicle, sometimes with a light grey hair in it (vibrissae). Recent research has demonstrated that there is neural tissue and sufficient blood circulation in each follicle. Researchers think the lumps to be some kind of sensory perception organs. Humpback whales are usually slow swimmers, but on the reproduction areas the females can move very fast when they try to protect their young against approaching boats. After coming to the surface to breathe, the whale submerges again. While submerging, the specific black and white pattern on the tail is often clearly visible: a perfect opportunity to make a photograph so the whale can be identified the next time it is spotted. In the winter and spring on the southern hemisphere (July to November) the humpback whales migrate to the areas around the Abrolhos archipelago and north shore of Bahia; especially in September there are large numbers of these whales present.

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 6 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 2 THE HUMPBACK WHALE INSTITUTE IN BRAZIL

Brazil is an immense country: it has a coast-line of 7,408 kilometres and measures over 8,5 million km² (larger than Western Europe). Many Brazilian organisations occupy themselves with the protection of the coastal areas, but because of international pressure most of the nature conservation projects focus on the Amazon. The work of the local Brazilian organisations is very difficult and it deserves our utmost respect. After the creation of Abrolhos Marine National Park in 1983, scientific researches had shown in that region, the presence of the humpback whale, one of the great whales in danger of extinction. Aiming to develop the research and conservation of this population, in 1988 the Projeto Baleia Jubarte was created. Important scientific data has been gathered in this most important breeding area for humpbacks in the south-western Atlantic. From July to November, research cruises improve our knowledge about Brazilian humpbacks and patrol their breeding grounds. Also there is research on the behaviour of the whales and their interaction with tourist vessels, searching alternative ways that both, humpbacks and tourism can co- exist harmonically. The project also works on raising awareness of the tourists and the fishermen community, trying to show them the importance of humpback whale preservation and its ecological value, not mentioning the tourist heritage they represent, attracting people from many places of the country and the world. In 1996 the Instituto Baleia Jubarte, a non-profit and non-governmental organisation, was created to provide the financial support for the development of research with humpback whales. This institute also develops an environmental education program. Since 2000 the institute undertakes systematic cruises along the Northern Coast of Bahia State to collect data about behaviour, distribution, photo identification, collection of biopsies for genetic analyses, and to determine concentrations of contaminants in fat tissues. The results obtained in many years of research in this area prove that the species is expanding its distribution limit and occupying a former area, used for reproduction before commercial hunting, when they were almost exterminated. The data gathered onboard whale watching cruises contribute to the these studies, adding important information regarding occurrence, occupancy, reproductive rates, distribution and other parameters in order to better understand this humpback population. Praia do Forte offers an extraordinary setting for whale watching on the northern coast of Bahia State. Besides constituting one of the main ecotourism destinations of Brazil, the area is considered of great potential for tourism for the wealth and exuberance of natural resources, privileged climate and main roads leading to an international airport at the nearby State capital, Salvador.

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 7 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 3 HOW YOU CAN HELP

This project is not a tourist program! We need you to participate in the research and conservation activities for two to four weeks from mid July to mid November. This project has one-and-a-half decade of experience in working with foreign ecovolunteers. You should realise that you are participating in an ecovolunteer project, not in a holiday on the beach. The needs of the project will decide what has to be done and when it has to be done. Keep in mind that the Brazilian attitude towards working is different from for instance the north-western European attitude. Everything is much more relaxed and there will be enough time for entertainment and relaxation. During working hours you are supervised by the project team. Your accommodation is not luxurious, but sufficient; showers and toilets are available. You must have a positive attitude towards living and working in a small international group of enthusiastic people and take the responsibilities that this way of life holds. Your stay at the project will be rather primitive compared to your way of live at home. Remember that you will stay in a shared accommodation; separate male and female rooms. Good relationship and respect towards your room mates is essential. It is important that you realise that the station is not a professional tourist organisation, but a well-organised nature conservation institute. You can expect good and friendly supervision and co-operation from your colleagues. They are open, charming and friendly people from the best-educated branch of the Brazilian community. The atmosphere at the project is informal and the Brazilian 'relax & swing' attitude sets the tone. During the cruises your activities will mainly consist of being on the lookout for jumping and blowing whales and sometimes you'll be asked to operate the GPS. After a while you can participate in helping to register their behaviour. When a group of whales is spotted, the boat follows them for about half an hour. Sometimes it will be a mother with her youngster who takes off immediately; sometimes the animals are interested in the boat and come to the surface. Groups of three to four animals with a calf are most interesting: showing all kinds of different behavioural elements. When ashore depending on your personal abilities and interest, you can also participate on data organisation and help with the photo analysis. However your participation whilst ashore is limited. Many times, the researchers are quite busy and it is not possible to give you full attention. Bringing enough books or other things to pass the time is therefore highly recommendable. You can also be requested for: • Helping the interns to prepare the cruise, as go to grocery store • Going to the Abrolhos' National Marine Park Archipelago in a tourism boat. On these one-day trips you will represent the project and collect data about the whales. • Helping in rescuing stranded (dead or living) cetaceans.

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 8 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 4 CARAVELAS

Caravelas is one of the main cities in the south of Bahia. It is a 500 years old city, with a colonial architecture and there are about 20.130 inhabitants. Caravelas is surrounded by one of the largest preserved mangroves in the world. In the last three centuries this town was an important whaling harbour, whalebones could be seen lying on the beaches near Caravelas until recently. In colonial days, the people used whale oil for their oil-lamps and for building, like the Santo Antônio Cathedral that was build in 1750, and many other houses that cam be visited. Caravelas is the nearest harbour of Abrolhos Marine National Park, 32 nautical miles from the land. There are daily tourism boats to visit the Park.

4.1 The Abrolhos Bank and the humpback whales Brazilian coastal waters are very important for the reproduction of humpback whales. In the southern winter they come to these waters to reproduce and during the southern summer the whales feed in the cold, rich waters of the Antarctic. In the southern autumn the humpback whales migrate along the east coast of South America to their 'breeding grounds' at Abrolhos Bank. Because of the higher temperature of these waters, the whales swim faster; they are more active and more competitive. During this breeding-season, the animals do not feed and they live of their fat (blubber). The typical sounds that whales produce ('the whale song') are very complex: we still know very little about the structure and the function of these songs. Bio-acoustics studies in Abrolhos are being held. The sea plateau around Abrolhos is very important for the humpback whales. Most Brazilian coastal waters are very deep, but in Abrolhos’ Bank the waters are shallow (less than 50 meters) and so the temperature of the water is higher. The humpback whales seem to like this and they come to these shallow waters to breed. Many young whales are born and raised in the waters surrounding Abrolhos. The female and youngster are often temporarily escorted by a male during the breeding season. In the northern part of Abrolhos’ bank is located the Abrolhos National Marine Park, a protected area, with approximately 266 square nautical miles (91300ha), divided in three areas: 1) 5 islands of the archipelago: Santa Barbara, Redonda, Guarita, Sueste & Siriba islands; 2) the Parcel dos Abrolhos, and; 3) the Timbebas reef.

The offshore islands of Abrolhos are situated near the south coast of Bahia. The largest island, Santa Bárbara, measures one kilometer by 300 meters and the highest point is 36 meters above sea level. The island has a lighthouse and is ______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 9 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org used as a Navy base and it is not part of the National Park, so it is not open to tourists. The permanent heliport is always stand-by for rescue-operations on sea. The island of Siriba, west of Santa Bárbara, is the only one that can be visited. Siriba measures about 300 meters by 100 meters and is only 16 meters above sea level. The beaches on Siriba are covered with pebbles. The other three islands are not open to visitors. Sueste (about 500 meters by 200 meters and 15 meters high) is surrounded by a reef that protects the island against the strong east wind. Redonda, which means 'round', has a diameter of about 400 meters. The highest point is at 37 meters and the island has a large sandy beach. The small island Guarita is nothing more than a pile of rocks covered with guano. Others species of cetaceans can also be seen in Abrolhos’ waters. Since 1991, the project has registered every year the presence of southern right whales. This species was almost extinct due to commercial hunting, but slowly has shown signs of recovery and they have been observed in many places of the Brazilian coast. It is also common to observe bottlenose dolphins, and rough-toothed dolphins, together with humpback groups. In the continent, groups of tucuxi dolphins might be seen feeding near the mangrove and in the Caravelas River. The archipelago holds some very important nesting sites for sea birds. You can expect to see noddies, boobies, frigate birds, little egrets, sterns, plovers, whimbrels, and many more. The underwater biological richness is even more fascinating. If you have the opportunity to snorkel near the coral reefs, you might see sea turtles, corals and tropical reef fishes. Every year a small number of turtles lay their eggs on the beaches of the archipelago.

4.2 The Caravelas program We use a small (15 meters), converted fishing boat for the research-cruises. With such a boat it is possible to observe the humpback whales from up close. Usually, you will be at sea for about four days on the week (Tuesday to Friday). However, when the weather is too rough this may be shorter, or the cruise may be delayed, or even cancelled. The accommodation on the boat is simple: the beds are rather small for tall Europeans, so you must be able to improvise - If it’s possible, bring your sleeping bag, you can experience a more pleasant night on the boat’s deck. During the cruise, the boat will be sailing on the look out for whales for about 9 hours per day; at sunset the boat will moor in the sheltered waters of Abrolhos archipelago if this is the route of the cruise. If the night harbour is the Abrolhos National Park, the Ecovolunteer can go snorkelling and visit the Siriba Island. However, we may not have the opportunity to stop in the Abrolhos Archipelago or any coral reef during the research cruises. The main objective of the project is the whales. When the research cruise goes to the north of the Abrolhos bank, the night is usually spent in Cumuruxatiba, Porto Seguro or Belmonte (Bahia) and if the route is to the south of the Bank, the night is spent in Barra do Riacho (Espirito Santo). The cruises may be delayed due to meteorological conditions, rain and / or wind greater than 20 knots, in this case, we will negotiate the best solution with you, you can either stay longer in Caravelas (if there is no more than 3 ecovolunteers) or the we will arrange for an alternative program on the mainland, for instance, visiting a mangrove-forest,

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 10 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org help on the environmental education program and on the monitoring of tucuxi dolphins. However, in past seasons, the participants have been able to board in all cruises, so the above statement is more a warning than a real problem. Since 2001 a new research branch started: monitoring the tucuxi dolphins on the Caravelas River. You may be asked to participate on this research. To look for the dolphins from a land base making notes about their pod number and behaviour are some tasks included. Some of the work is done at the field station, for instance the processing of the forms. It is possible to visit Barra's large beach, historical architecture and restaurants in your free time. There is a member of our staff designated to guide you during the activities, and free time. Note that usually nobody is available in the project after 18:00. We would appreciate it when you bring your own camera to make pictures on behalf of the project. Many useful photos were taken by ecovolunteers in the meantime our official photographer was changing film. When you have some time off, you can go shopping or organise your own trips. As only few people in Caravelas speak English, some creativity is necessary!

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 11 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 5 PRACTICAL TRAVEL INFORMATION

5.1 Period Annually participation is possible from mid July to mid November.

5.2 Prices Prices as mentioned on http://www.cybelle-planete.org

5.3 Date You can register for a one to four weeks period from Mid July to Mid November. Please enter the date of your preference on the application form. You can yourself set your own week(s) of preference, however, you have to schedule for arrival on Mondays (start day), someone from the project will be waiting (only on Mondays) for you at the Caravelas bus station. The cruises are usually programmed to leave every Tuesday, so enabling you to meet the staff and receive all information before getting on board. If the arrival cannot be on Monday, you have to be aware that you will be probably missing that week cruise. From Tuesdays to Fridays a pick-up at the bus station will not be possible. Usually on Saturdays and Sundays the project is closed.

5.4 Participants We can accommodate a maximum of three participants per week.

5.5 Included in the price • Supervision; • National Park entrance; • Transfers in accordance with the program from town to boat and v.v.; • Shared accommodation in the hotel, breakfast included; • Accommodation during the research-cruise on board of the research-vessel;

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 12 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org • Food during research-cruises: full board (special diets & vegetarian food can be a problem; usually seafood is served); • Advice on personal travelling necessities and literature; • Advice on rules of conduct near coral reefs and humpback whales; • Summary of relevant behavioural patterns of humpback whales in English & Portuguese to facilitate communication between the participants.

5.6 Not included in the price • Travel to and from project location (see below; flights); • Airport taxes and excess luggage charges (20 kg a head free); • Cancellation insurance, travel-, luggage- and accident insurance (see below); • Personal trips during your time off or during your stay at the mainland (public transport); • Personal expenses, such as: laundry and internet bills, souvenirs, drinks, entrance fees, medicines, etc; • Diving equipment (goggles, flippers and snorkel).

5.7 Flights You will have to make your own flight-arrangements. We advise you not to make reservations before your participation in the project has been confirmed. Of course you can also plan your stay at this project as part of a bigger journey. You can fly to Porto Seguro in Bahia, Brazil and continue to travel overland to Caravelas by public bus service (270 km).

5.8 Insurances All participants are required to carry both travel insurance and cancellation insurance; the travel insurance should cover for full medical costs. Neither the Ecovolunteer Program nor the project, and their staff, will accept any liabilities that could have been covered by travel insurance or cancellation insurance.

5.9 Conditions for participation This ecovolunteer project is suitable for everyone with a normal physical health; you must be able to swim and to walk long distances. You must be able to stand the heat and you must speak English (or Spanish or Portuguese). Not all your Brazilian colleagues speak fluently English and it is important that you are patient and understanding. You must be 18 years or older and you must be committed to nature- and animal protection, but you should also enjoy working with other people.

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 13 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org Keywords are: neo-tropical climate, beaches with loose sand. When you have problems with hearing, walking or breathing, or when you are very overweight, you may experience problems during this program.

5.10 Swimming and snorkelling Depending on the route of the cruise, you will have the opportunity to swim and snorkel. But you should consult the crew beforehand. Swimming and snorkelling is at your own risk: there is no surveillance or instruction.

5.11 Money It is highly recommended to change all your money at the airport. In Caravelas you cannot change money, and this applies both to Traveller Cheques and to cash money. It's not so easy to get some money with Visa Credit Card, and Visa Electron, Master Card and traveller's cheques are not accepted at all. The closest place for changing may be Teixeira de Freitas (a two hour drive by bus) or Prado. As the costs for changing money may be very high (sometimes even US$ 20 per transaction), it is recommended to change all the money that you think you might need at once, so that you do not need to do this more than once.

5.12 Photo / film It is recommended to bring all films for your camera from home, as this kind of material (both for photo’s and for slides) is relatively very expensive in Brazil. The research centre is always in need for photo-films: it will be a substantial help for the centre and the researchers if you bring some extra films (100 ASA) as a present.

5.13 Attainability The project does have available both telephone and fax. However, sometimes connections with Brazil are problematic, and also it may take several days before your folks at home may receive an answer. Take in view that you may be away, out on the sea for a few days, and it may be clear that the attainability is not great. However, it will not be difficult for you to phone to home (you will have to pay for these costs yourself!). Therefore you are required to inform your family and friends that there may be some days delay when trying to contact you. Also inform them that when the try to make a phone call, the phone might be answered by someone who does not speak English. To a certain extend it's possible to send and receive e- mails from the project, but only when computers are not occupied by the staff and using the house e-mails addresses. Radio is available for communication with the boat during the research cruises.

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 14 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 6 ABROLHOS ARCHIPELAGO AND THE CORAL REEFS

The Abrolhos Archipelago coral reefs are the biggest and biologically most diverse reefs of the southern Atlantic Ocean. To swim and snorkel in the coastal waters of the archipelago is a magnificent experience. The coral reefs extend over a distance of approximately six thousand square kilometres at the northern continental shelf of Abrolhos. The structure of the reefs is rather irregular and interrupted. In spite of the fact that the coral reefs are located parallel to the coastline, they do not form a barrier- reef as they do in most tropical regions. Depending on the route of the cruise, we may not visit the Abrolhos Archipelago or stop at the coral reefs. It doesn't mean that you cannot visit them by yourself, since you may go to the Archipelago (Park) in a tourism boat.

6.1 What is coral? Coral reefs are sometimes called the 'rainforest of the sea', due to its great biodiversity. But what is coral? Most people see coral reefs as some kind of rock. In reality corals are the skeletons of communities of very small animals, the polyps. This species has tentacles around the mouth to catch food from the water which flows past. They feed on plankton. The polyps excrete calcium from which their outer skeleton is made and which ensures the whole colony of a strong, protective cover. This outer skeleton is that part of the coral reefs which we usually consider to be thé coral. The coral skeleton can be found in many different forms, sizes and colours. Living corals are mostly covered by a thin layer of microscopically tiny seaweed or algae which remove the carbon dioxide from the corals and provide oxygen. Even though they look very different from the outside, the polyps are related to sea anemones and jelly-fish. Al these primitive animal species have so-called nematocysts which enable them to catch their prey and which, at times, cause human skins to become inflamed.

6.2 What is a coral reef? A coral starts out in life as a free swimming larva, it floats with the currents until it finds a place among other polyps and attaches itself to the seafloor. After settling down, the animal grows in to a mature polyp and starts to form its outer skeleton and multiplies itself until a coral colony is formed. Coral reefs consist of different kinds of plants and various animal species which become an interdependent whole in a so-called ecosystem. The corals are the framework of this system and determine the structure of the reefs. Corals grow very slowly, only a few centimetres in one year.

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 15 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 6.3 Where are coral reefs found? Corals are found in tropical seas where the temperature of the water ranges between 21 and 30 0C. They need clear water, a lot of sunlight and a stable percentage of salt in the water. Shallow, clear water and sunlight enable the symbiotic sea-weeds to do their work and make the corals grow as well. The reefs arise on those parts of the seafloor where they find a solid footing. Moderate currents help the corals grow as well by washing away sediment which could suffocate the coral polyps. But currents and waves which are too strong can damage the reefs. To exist, the corals depend upon a well-balanced, vulnerable environment.

6.4 Is coral vulnerable? YES! Coral looks rather strong but it is nevertheless very vulnerable and fragile. Just by touching the corals or by walking over the reefs, the polyps can be injured or even die. Sediments from land (erosion) can suffocate the corals for it obstructs the sunlight which the symbiotic seaweed needs. When the percentage of salt changes or when boats anchor on the reef or pollute the waters, this can cause serious damage to the reef and even destroy it.

6.5 Why is coral important? Coral reefs are extremely rich in biodiversity. In fact, it is the marine ecosystem with the biggest biodiversity. Coral reefs provide food, housing and protection for a large variety of sea-animals. Some of these animals depend exclusively on the corals to eat or grow up. Many species of fish live here during the greater or lesser part of their life-cycle. Besides all this biological importance, the coral reefs, like the mangroves, are big fish nurseries. A lot of fishermen depend on the coral reefs to catch their fish. The reefs also attract many tourists that, by visiting them, leave money for the local communities.

6.6 Why is coral important? To swim and snorkel between the coral reefs is a marvellous experience! Turtles, many colourful coral fishes, moraines, crab and even small sharks abound. You can imagine yourself swimming in a Jacques Cousteau movie. But it is advisable to take precautions and wear neoprene shoes or plastic sandals and thin gloves. This will protect your hands and feet against sea urchins, coral fragments or nematocysts. Always remember that you can destroy in a few seconds of carelessness what took hundreds of years to grow. * when you swim or snorkel do not touch or break the corals; * do not take any coral fragments from the reef; * avoid dumping litter in the sea; * when you spot litter in the reef, take it with you ashore;

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 16 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 7 ADVICE ON PERSONAL TRAVELLING NECESSITIES

You do not need a special outfit for Brazil. We advise you to bring airy cotton clothing and you should bring a warm sweatshirt, as the evenings can be rather cold . Below you will find a list of items we recommend you to bring with you:

♦ valid passport ♦ a print out of this information brochure and the additional information that you receive after booking ♦ pocket money, money belt ♦ small rucksack ♦ sunglasses, hat or cap ♦ sunburn lotion (high protection # 15 / 20 or total sun block; very expensive in Brazil; no baby-oil!) ♦ swimsuit (snorkel, goggles, flippers) ♦ clothing (long trousers that dry quickly - jeans are not recommended -, shorts, T-shirts & shirts with long sleeves, sweatshirt) ♦ waterproof and windproof poncho ♦ strong, dark and warm clothes for the cool nights ♦ comfortable shoes (for instance, sandals) ♦ spare glasses for those who wear them ♦ personal first aid kit, insect repellent, medicine for travel sickness ♦ personal items ♦ flashlight (with spare batteries) ♦ flask or thermos ♦ light summer sleeping-bag ♦ watch, preferably with luminous dial ♦ pocket knife ♦ alarm clock ♦ plastic/waterproof bags to protect your luggage ♦ camera and films (bring all films you will need from home) ♦ binoculars ♦ silica gel to protect optical equipment

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 17 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org Tips: ♦ It would be a nice gesture if you bring some small presents for the station, for instance, English literature on humpback whales, DVD’s, etc. ♦ A zoom lens of 28 mm - 200 mm is sufficient for most people.

The assets of the institute are very limited when compared to many American and European nature projects. You can help bringing useful gifts when you visit the project, like: binoculars, cameras, English-language books, office materials, handbooks, etc.

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 18 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 8 LITERATURE

There are many books on whales and on Brazil. Recommended titles:

8.1 On humpback whales ⇒ Clapham. 1996. Humpback Whales. 72 pages ⇒ Kaufman, G.D. & P.H. Forestell. 1993 (2nd edition). Hawaii's Humpback Whales. A Complete Whalewatchers Guide. Pacific Whale Foundation Press, Maui, Hawaii. ISBN 0-89610-281-5.

8.2 On whales in Brazil ⇒ Hetzel, B. & L. Lodi. 1993. Baleias, Botos e Golfinhos. Guia de Identificaçao para o Brasil. Editora Nova Fronteira S.A., Rio de Janeiro. ISBN 85-209-0501-3. (Portuguese guide on cetaceans of Brazil)

8.3 Recommended guides on cetaceans: ⇒ Carwardine. 1995. Eyewitness Handbook - Whales, Dolphins and Porpoises. Dorling Kindersley. 256 pages ⇒ Evans, P.G.H. 1995. Guide to the identification of whales, dolphins and porpoises in European seas. 36 pages

8.4 Some interesting (semi-) scientific articles (to be found at University libraries) ⇒ Evans, P.G.H. 1987. The Natural History of Whales and Dolphins. Christopher Helm Ltd., Bromley. ⇒ Gonchorosky, S., G. Sales, M.I.C. Belém & C.B. Castro. 1989. Importance, establishment and management plan of the 'Parque Nacional Marinho dos Abrolhos', Brazil. Pages 185-194 in: Neves, C. & O,T, Magoon. 1989. Coastlines of Brazil. American Society of Civil Engineers, New York. ⇒ Hoyt, E. 1991. Meeting the Whales. Camden House Publishing. ISBN 0-921820-23-2. ⇒ Pinedo, M.C. 1985. A note on a stranding of the humpback whale on the southern coast of Brazil. Sci. Rep. Whales Res. Inst., Tokyo, (36):165-168. ⇒ Siciliano, S. & L. Lodi. 1989. Observations of humpback whales in the Abrolhos Bank, N.E. Brazil, with a summary of Brazilian records. In: Biennial Conference on the Biology of Marine Mammals,8, Pacific Grove Abstracts. Pacific Grove Society for Marine Mammalogy, page 62. ______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 19 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org ⇒ Stone, G.S., L. Florez-Gonzalez & S. Katona. 1990. Whale migration record. Nature, 346(6286):705. ⇒ Threshold Foundation. 1981. Sea Guide to the Whales of the World. Hutchinson & Co Ltd., London. ISBN 0-09- 146.600.8.

Further, we advise you to read at least one travel guide on Brazil, as it is important to be well-informed about the political, social and cultural backgrounds of the country you are going to visit. Several good travel guides for Brazil are available: for instance, the Insight Guides, the Rough Guide and the Lonely Planet.

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 20 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 9 GUIDELINES FOR OBSERVATION

The behavioural patterns that are described below are regularly seen. The exact meaning or function is not always known. To facilitate communication and to avoid confusion between the Brazilian scientists and the ecovolunteers the list is both in English and in Portuguese. It is very important that all behavioural patterns that are observed are registered properly.

• BLOW - BORRIFO Normal patterns of exhalation and inhalation at the surface. The term refers to both the act of breathing and the cloud of water droplets produced above the animal’s head during the process of exhalation.

• PEDUNCLE ARCHING - ARQUEAMENTO Following the last inhalation, the whale begins a diving descent by arching its body slightly while rolling ahead at the surface (round out). As the caudal peduncle appears, the whale may arch high above the water, perhaps in an attempt to dive more deeply (peduncle arch).

• FLUKE UP DIVE – EXPOSIÇÃO CAUDAL EM MERGULHO Following a peduncle arch, the Humpback will usually bring its flukes above the surface of water. In a fluke up dive, the flukes will be brought straight up into the air, exposing the entire ventral surface, showing the pattern of markings found on each whale. In a fluke down dive the flukes are brought clear of the water, but remain turned down, so the ventral surface is not exposed.

• PECTORAL SLAPPING – BATIDA DE PEITORAL Humpbacks frequently roll on the surface, slapping their pectoral fins against the water. The whales also lay on their back waving both fins in the air at the same time or slapping them on the water.

• SPY HOPPING - ESPIAR The whale rises relatively straight up off the water rather slowly, maintains its head above the surface just below the eye, often turns 90-180 degrees on its longitudinal axis, then slips back below the surface.

• TAIL SLAPPING – BATIDA DE CAUDAL

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 21 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org A forceful slapping of the flukes against the surface of the water. This is carried out while the whale is lying either dorsal or ventral side up.

• BREACH - SALTO The whale propels itself out the water, generally clearing the surface with two-thirds of its body or more. As the whale rises above the water, it throws one pectoral fin out to the side and turns in the air about its longitudinal axis.

• The minimum distance of 100m must be kept at all times • No more than three boats are allowed in a one hundred metre radius around the whales. • Boats should approach the whales parallel to their swimming direction. • Boats shouldn’t change course or speed abruptly; sudden stopping or accelerating can confuse or alarm the whales. • Do not rouse the whales. • Do not stay longer than half an hour with the same group of whales. • When approaching the whales (100m) the engine should be turned to neutral to avoid the propeller from injuring the whales. It can be turned back into gear when the whale is spotted again on the surface at least 50 m away from the boat. • It's not allowed to swim with the whales. • Avoid contact with the whales when they show unusual behaviour, such as, slapping their tail on the surface, or when you observe many bubbles under water, or when sexual behaviour or suckling is interrupted.

Please, try to follow these rules as precisely as possible. Of course, sometimes the whales themselves break the rules when they approach the boat to inspect this strange 'whale', but when we approach the whales to study them we should respect their personal space and behaviour.

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 23 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 11 SOME USEFUL WORDS AND EXPRESSIONS Portuguese English

a the (feminine) abaixo below acasalar mating água water alicate pliers areia sand arquipélago archipelago assustar scare baleia whale barco boat boca mouth (river mouth) caminhar to walk cama bed capa rain coat casa house cauda tail cerca de close to cicatriz scar

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 24 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org chuva rain cobrir to cover colocar to put comer to eat comida food comportamento behavior cuidado careful dia day dormir sleep é is escavando digging escuro dark está is (conditional) estrelas stars exibir, expor to display fazer to do, to make fêmea female filhotes calves fotografar take pictures golfinho dolphin gringo foreigner grupo group ilha island iniciando beginning ir to go jubarte humpback kilometro mile marker lanterna flashlight longe far livro book lua moon luz light macho male manha morning mar sea

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 25 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org marca mark marear, enjoar seasickness mascara de mergulho dive mask mergulhar to dive molhar to get wet mover to move mulher woman nadadeiras flippers nadar swim nascer-do-sol sunrise nao está is not ninho nest noite night nuvem cloud oceano ocean olhar to look olhos eyes pé-de-pato fin peixe fish pescado fish (meat) pilhas batteries plantas plants pôr-do-sol sunset povo people praia beach recife de coral coral reefs rio river salto jump silêncio silence snorkel, canudo snorkel tarde afternoon tartaruga verde green turtle terminar to finish vamos lets go viagem trip vila, povoado village ______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 26 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org PHRASES Como é o seu nome? What's your name? O que você esta fazendo? What are you doing? Você tem fome? Are you hungry? Você esta pronto? Are you ready? Você pode ver? Can you see? Venha aqui, por favor Come here, please Você necessita ajuda? Do you need help? Bom dia Good morning Boa tarde Good afternoon (until 18:00) Boa noite Good evening, Good night Me ajude, por favor Can you help me, please? Como vai você? How are you? Nao posso ver I can't see Esta é a sua vez This is your turn Dar a volta To turn around Virar To turn over Apague a luz, por favor Turn off the light, please Acordar Wake up Que horas sâo, por favor What time is it, please Como está o tempo? How's the weather? Onde você vai? Where are you going?

NUMBERS 1 um 2 dois 3 três 4 quatro 5 cinco 6 seis 7 sete 8 oito 9 nove ______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 27 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 10 dez

12.1 Electricity The voltage in Brazil is 110 or 220 volt. In Praia do Forte it is 110 volts. You will probably need an adapter when you want to use your own appliances.

12.2 Special days 12 October: Our Lady of Aparecida Day (Children’s day) 2 November: All Soul's Day 15 November: Proclamation of the Republic 25 December: Christmas 1 January: New Year 6 January: Epiphany February: Carnival

12.3 Tips In restaurants and bars you usually give a tip of 10%, unless the tip is included in the price. Taxi-drivers expect to you to round up the bill.

12.4 Inoculations Recommended are DTP (diphtheria, tetanus, polio), gamma-globulin or Havrix and typhoid tablets. There is no malaria risk in Bahia as long as you stay on the coast. We strongly recommend you to check with a health-centre in your country to receive up to date information.

12.5 Medical services Caravelas has medical centres in various neighbourhoods and a small public hospital at the city centre that counts with a general practitioner, a cardiologist and an orthopaedist. Approximately 90 km from Caravelas, in Teixeira de Freitas, is located the most modern private hospital complex in southern Bahia, with excellent professionals and state of the art equipment to provide a variety of treatments. ______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 29 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 12.6 Climate The climate in the south-east of Brazil is humid and tropical. When you are in Brazil during 'our' winter, it will be summer there (Brazil is on the southern hemisphere!). At the working location the daytime temperatures fluctuate between 25-30 °C and at night it will be 20-25 °C. You should be prepared for some rain, but this is very difficult to predict beforehand.

12.7 Money The monetary unit of Brazil is the real, R$. One Real equals 100 centavos. One Euro is approximately 2,5 R$; one US dollar is approximately 1,75 R$ (31 December 2009). Credit cards and traveller cheques are not always accepted. Some major banks in the cities accept American Express traveller cheques. Thomas Cook Traveller Cheques are useless in Caravelas. It is not so easy to change money in Caravelas, so it is better if you change all the money that you think you might need on the airport or in a big city like São Paulo, Salvador or Rio de Janeiro. Out of the program, during your stay at the mainland, you can do some trips like dive in some places around Abrolhos, it could cost about R$250.

12.8 Opening hours Shops, Mon-Fri: 09.00-18.00 or 19.00 Sat: 09.00-12.30 or 13.00 Banks, Mon-Fri: 10.00-16.00 (big cities) / 8:00 - 12:00 - Caravelas city Some shops close during lunch time.

12.9 Passport and visa To enter Brazil you need a valid passport that extends no sooner than six months after you leave Brazil again. You will probably not need a visa, but we advise you to check this with the Brazilian Embassy in your country. You should bring enough money to finance your stay and you should already have the ticket for your return journey.

12.10 Prices Apart from the expensive big cities, the prices in Brazil are at a roughly European level. Local products are relatively cheap, imported products are relatively expensive.

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 30 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 12.11 Language The official language is Portuguese, but the Brazilian pronunciation differs on some points: in stead of 'r', Brazilians say 'h' and their use of words is very different from that of the Portuguese. When you want to study Portuguese before you visit Brazil, it is advised to consult a 'Brazilian' tutor.

12.12 Tax-free shopping You can import products with a total value of 300 USD: • 200 cigarettes / 25 cigars • 2 bottles of alcohol • perfume or eau de toilette.

12.13 Telephone All public phones operate on phone cards that you have to buy up front.

12.14 E-mail You can receive or send messages just when the computer is free and in the company of project staff.

12.15 Time Brazilian time is three/four hours earlier than Central European Time.

12.16 Safety At the project you do not have to worry about your personal safety when you go out or when you go for a swim. Of course, you should always stay alert.

12.17 Water Only drink bottled water. When you use tap water, you should boil it for at least 10 minutes. Do not drink raw milk or eat raw meat, chicken, fish or shellfish. Be careful with raw vegetables and ice cubes, as they are often washed in or made out of unboiled tap water. The tab water in the cities, big or small, is NOT drinkable. ______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 31 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org 13 YOUR PARTICIPATION CLIMATE NEUTRAL

The Ecovolunteer Program aims to offset all carbon dioxide emissions caused by your participation in the project. For this we cooperate with the Trees for Travel Foundation.

The Trees for Travel Foundation finances the planting, regeneration and maintenance of forests that will lock up greenhouse gases. The Foundation does her work in collaboration with local people and organizations to not only create a greener planet but also to fight against poverty. So we keep the greenhouse effect in check by contributing a modest amount to Trees for Travel to compensate your greenhouse gas emissions while participating in the Ecovolunteer project. Thus you help to make the world a better place at the same time.

The cost for climate compensation is not added to the price you pay, but is fully covered by the Ecovolunteer Program.

Please note that we only care for making your participation in the project climate neutral. Your travelling from your home to the project is not included. We recommend that you yourself will make your travels climate neutral as well. You could ask your travel agent or your airline to do so, or you can arrange that directly yourself through the Trees for Travel Foundation: Website: http://www.treesfortravel.info Mail: [email protected]

______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 32 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org ______Humpback Whales, Caravelas, Brazil, 2010 Page 33 / 33 © http://www.ecovolunteer.org