Helsinki Excursion
HELSINKI EXCURSION 167 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © 358 Finnish, Swedish Finnish, % none Tove Jansson (Moomin Jansson (Moomin Tove innovative design, 1952 design, 1952 innovative 564,521 Finland euro; US$1= €0.76; UK£1 = €1.10 not needed for most visitors for stays not needed for most visitors for stays 227,420 sq km of up to 90 days Official language Visas Famous for Famous Olympics, Suomenlinna, saunas Money Population Country Country code tax Departure Area Birthplace of author); Linus Torvalds (Linux creator); Jari Kurri (hockey hall-of-famer)
FAST FACTS FACTS FAST Not that the Finns will be blowing their capital’s trumpet. These northern folk are renowned northern renowned will be blowing their capital’s trumpet. These are folk Not that the Finns Helsinki and activities trip into a week. that day to easily extend has plenty of culture The
boats are so busy: Finns think of Tallinn as their ‘pub suburb’. think of Tallinn so busy: Finns boats are have to go easy on shouting drinks, though, as Helsinki prices are the reason those ferry those ferry to go easy on shouting drinks, though, as Helsinki the reason have prices are have to speak to one another – but they certainly loosen up after a few drinks. You might drinks. to speak to one another – but they certainly a few have loosen up after for being quiet – there’s an old joke that they invented text messaging so they wouldn’t messaging text an old joke that they invented for being quiet – there’s pastries and other local delicacies. you can keep your hip pocket happy by grazing the Kauppatori (Market square) for Finnish you can keep pocket your hip happy by grazing the Kauppatori Finnish for (Market square) up in the famous club scene or gobble some of the best food in the Nordic countries. Or Nordic countries. scene or gobble some of the best food in the up in the famous club summer terraces are the best way to take advantage of the long days; or, in winter, cosy the best way to take advantage of the long days; or, in winter, are summer terraces northern Europe’s most stunning public squares. And when it’s time to rest your weary feet, your weary feet, And when it’s time to rest northern public squares. most stunning Europe’s tural heritage that stretches beyond Alvar Aalto to include magnificent churches and one of to include magnificent churches and one of beyond Alvar Aalto tural heritage that stretches art of Kiasma will let you don a beret and embrace your inner art critic. There’s the architec- art art and embrace your inner There’s of Kiasma will let you don a beret critic. fortress of Suomenlinna makes for a historic afternoon’s excursion while the bleeding-edge excursion while fortress of Suomenlinna makes for a historic afternoon’s Tallinn as a suburb of Helsinki. Tallinn a stable relationship with ferries plying the waters so regularly that Finns almost think of that Finns so regularly the waters plying with ferries a stable relationship as Helsinki was wooed into the Russian and Swedish empires. Today the two cities have cities have Today the two as HelsinkiRussian and Swedish empires. was wooed into the Prince, Tallinn. Historically the two had a tension borne out by centuries of trade rivalry borne out by centuries of trade rivalry Historically the two had a tension Prince, Tallinn. Often called the Daughter of the Baltic, Helsinki has had a long love affair with the Estonian affair Helsinki has had a long love Baltic, of the Often called the Daughter Helsinki Excursion HELSINKI EXCURSION further out) distance. walking (orcyclingifyouwanttoexplore area buzzingspot.Themainsights allwithin frequentthough cruise-boat arrivalsmeanit’s Much of thecity’scharms are arounditsport, justalittleEnglish.the citywillspeakeven Finnish). Luckilymostpeopleworkingin easier tofigure outthanthevowel-mangling language (andisoftenthe country’ssecond Swedish onmostsignage: Swedishisofficially century. 20th independenceinthe survived city’s status in 1812theyanointed Helsinki; theFinnish toStPetersburg,wanted closer acapital so fortress, Suomenlinna. Theydecidedthatthey Helsinki anditstheoretically impenetrable During thewarof 1808theRussianscaptured founded Helsingfors (Swedish forHelsinki). fromacrossFinlandforhisnewly artisans of Tallinn. He shanghaied merchants and in 1550asarivaltotheHansa tradingtown Swedish KingGustav Vasa foundedHelsinki Pop 564,521/ 168
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Eteläsatama Kanavakatu 0.3 miles Pohjoisranta 500 m 44
HELSINKI EXCURSION
10am- B3 C2 C2 C2 B2 B2 B3 B2 D3 D3 D3 C2 C2 C3 169 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 h Kiasma in summer. in summer. ) 1733 6501; www.kiasma 622 05421; www.design , a contemporary art , a contemporary % % (
. Kamppi Bus Station Tallink...... C3 Kanava Ferry Terminal...... (see 43) Katajanokka Ferry Terminal...... (see 44) Linda Line...... (see 43) Makasiini Ferry Terminal...... Nordic Jet Line...... Viking Line...... Aarikka...... Artek...... Design Forum Finland...... IvanaHelsinki...... Marimekko...... Moomin Shop...... Sauna Market...... Stockmann...... Eckerö Line...... Greenbike...... (Underground)...... SHOPPING TRANSPORT C3 B2 B3 A2 B3 C3 B2 C2 C3 B3 C2 C2 D2 C2 C2 has a permanent collection that has a permanent collection that 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 Design Museum Mannerheim statue 11am-6pm Tue-Sun, plus Mon Jun-Aug, 11am-8pm 11am-8pm Mon Jun-Aug, plus 11am-6pm Tue-Sun, HELSINKI ON A HANDSET ON A HANDSET HELSINKI phone? Helsinki your mobile or cell Packed its tour- of version a cut-down Tourism has to your to be delivered designed ism site mobile at www.helsinki.mobi. For a more modern take, in the city cen- in the city modern take, For a more The The (€6.50; free with a Helsinki Card with a Helsinki (€6.50; free museum.fi; Korkeavuorenkatu €7/free; 23; adult/child h Sep-May) Tue Finnish design, looks at the uniqueness of tre you’ll find the quirky curves you’ll find the quirky tre of (Museum Art; of Contemporary .fi; Mannerheiminaukio 2; adult/under 18yr €7/free; 8.30pm Wed-Sun, 9am-5pm Tue) space that still surprises with exciting new it has field, left of exhibits. Focusing on the on the 3rd floor and a permanent collection with a changing an experimental theatre usually cost extra) on the program (tickets is known for the hand- ground floor, which clock outside the artsy museum written shop. The building has become a meeting point for ter- on its popular artists as well as drinkers of figure race, who look out on the horseback the that takes in the islands’ several in the islands’ that takes museums and cafes. You can also hop off at the King’s Gate Quay at the King’s Gate You can also hop off for your- on Suisaari, to explore if you want walking path a blue-signposted self. There’s
LUX...... B2 Cuba! Cafe...... Zetor...... DTM...... Heavy Corner...... Lost & Found...... Klaus K...... Sokos Hotel Torni...... Cafe Engel...... Chez Dominique...... Demo...... Fazer...... Olo...... Savotta...... Savoy...... Arctic Icebar...... Ateljee Bar...... (see 17) EATING DRINKING ENTERTAINMENT 10am-6pm May-Sep, 169 3757; www.hel 169 3757; 9am-8pm Mon-Fri,9am-8pm A3 A2 B2 A2 A1 C2 B2 A2 B3 C2 C2 B2 C3 B1 h , which has tourist , which 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 % h ( 020-451 4400; Mannerheimin Inventory Chamber Visitor Centre HELSINKI •• Sights & Activities % ( (www.helsinkiexpert.fi) Book hotel (‘fortress of Finland’) is the Finland’) is the of (‘fortress 7am-9pm Mon-Fri, Sat & Sun) The 10am-6pm h
668 800; www.suomenlinna.fi; 668 800; www.suomenlinna.fi;
Suomenlinna actually spans two islands: Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Forex...... B2 INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING Hotelli Helka...... Academica Summer Hostel...... Hostel Erottajanpuisto...... Hotel Linna...... Temppeliaukio Church...... Tuomiokirkko...... Yrjönkadun Uimahalli...... Art...... Mannerheim Statue...... (see 7) Natural History Museum...... Design Museum...... Finlandia Talo...... Helsinki City Tourist Office...... Helsinki Expert...... (see 3) Main Post Office...... Forex......
% SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES aukio 1; between the bus and post office is in the large building office adjacent. train stations with the poste restante ( walking tours 11am & 2pm Jun-Aug) information, maps and guided walking tours bridge. Most visits to the island begin at the bridge. with the bridge Iso Mustaari in the north and Susisaari in by a small connected are the south, which served as a prison for communist prisoners. served as a prison for mained in Russian hands until independence. hands until independence. mained in Russian Ironically, during the Finnish Civil War it tion Sveaborg (Swedish fortress). Of course Of course (Swedish fortress). tion Sveaborg in 1808 and it re- the Russians took the fort estate ever since the Swedes built here in 1748 estate ever here since the Swedes built off Russian attacks,bas- naming their to stave must-do half-day trip from the city. Set on islands, this Unesco World of a tight cluster real been has site hotly contested Heritage Just a 15-minute ferry ride from Kauppatori, ride from Kauppatori, ferry Just a 15-minute Suomenlinna Main post office Helsinki Expert Helsinki City Tourist Office lonelyplanet.com rooms and purchase ticketsrooms and purchase travel ferry for train, bus and and St Petersburg. to Tallinn and for travel around Finland tourist office. Also sells Helsinki located in the Card and is .fi/tourism; 19; Pohjoisesplanadi Sun May-Sep,9am-6pm Sat & 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am- 4pm Sat & Sun Oct-Apr) a Busy multilingual office with city. the on quantity of information great HELSINKI EXCURSION depend on events; ring depend onevents; for information. a concerthallbuilt in1971.Openinghours child €5/2.50; 13;adult/ PohjoinenRautatienkatu www.fmnh.helsinki.fi; Museum cal dominated bythechalk-white neoclassi- Square), amagnificentcitysquare. It’s to Finland unlessyou’ve The hadasauna. 13;guidedtours€6) box office4024400;Mannerheimintie the angular is oneof AlvarAalto’s mostfamousworks, Fredrikinkatu. of tics. Theentranceisatthenorthern end There are regular concerts,withgreat acous- roof covered in22kmof copperstripping. ture andfeatures astunning24m-diameter innovativeness of Finnish religious architec- tractions. Thechurch themodern symbolises and remains oneof Helsinki’s foremost at- by Timo andTuomoSuomalainenin1969 6pm Sat,noon-1.45pm&3.30-6pmSun) ( underthe ornamentation lofty dome. and, truetotheirideals,there islittleother Luther, Melanchthon and Michael Agricola features of statues theReformationheroes forNewYear’ssetting revelry. Theinterior placeforcanoodlingcouplesanda meeting of flight stairs, isapopular Its high however, minder of God’ssupremacy over thesquare. asare- itwascreatedsensibilities, toserve esty ashediedin1840.Given theLutheran itsmaj- saw until 1852,Engel never himself 9am-midnightJun-Aug) May, 29; Unioninkatu chitect CL Engel isthe elephant inthefoyerare hits with kids. African skeletonsThe dinosaur andthesaggy other creatures, including allFinnishspecies. extensive collectionof mammals,birdsand bring newlife totheUniversity of Helsinki’s puts skeletons context, inanevolutionary hibitions like theStoryof theBones,which of aspermimpregnating anovum. Newex- is knownforitscontroversial weathervane furniture. household fromclothingtoary design–everything Changing exhibitionsfocusoncontempor- particularly therecent Fennofolk movement. 170 % Everyone willtell youthathaven’t been A littlefurtheroutonMannerheimintie Hewn intosolidrock, Recently renovated, the One of thefinestcreations of ar- German 494 698; Lutherinkatu 3; 494 698;Lutherinkatu Tuomiokirkko HELSINKI ••Sleeping
(Luonnontieteellinen Museo; h h Finlandia Talo 9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pmSat&Sun) 9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 9am-6pm Mon-Sat,noon-6pmSunSep-
(Lutheran cathedral; ; as it was not completed ; asitwasnotcompleted h Senaatintori
Temppeliaukio Church 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am- 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, (
% visiting info40241, Natural History Natural History wasdesigned % % 1912 8800; (Senate (Senate 709 2455; ,
complex first opened in 1928. the more ArtDeco historic optionsinasleek noon-9pm Sun&Mon,6.30am-9pmWedFri) mission €4-11; the party people. singlesarethough agoodchance toescape Dorms are limitedbunkstoaroom toeight kitchen where free coffee isalwaysbrewing. large drawingroomthatdoublesasabasic ing Punavouri area, it’sasocialspotwith budget.on atight Inthethickof thehappen- ni 9;dm/s/d/tr€23.50/49/68/81; puisto.com; Uudenmaankatu program andaWWF-certified green office. aware,environmentally withacarbonoffset cheapest feel uncrowded. Management isalso limited the to four bunkstoaroomsoeven fridges anden-suite bathrooms.Dormsare are older,butstillhave great additionslike bar andwi-fi).(pool, sauna Traditionalrooms It’s super-clean andpacked withfeatures feel likenitely doesn’t astudentsharehouse. nisp s/tw upto€42/59,modern€55/69; 14;dm€23,standard .hostelacademica.fi; Hietaniemenkatu August. to (summer hostels) thatare available fromJune tunately there are someexcellent Budget optionsare rare inHelsinki, butfor- SLEEPING Uimahalli Yrjönkadun out with extra-longbeds, minibars and,in feelsnever cheesy: rooms are tastefully kitted nical university opposite. Thecastle decor forthetech-in 1903asthestudent clubhouse treatment, thisplacewasonlybuilt although give youtheroyal facade andcourtlyservice bill: LinnaisFinnish for‘castle’.Theturreted pni tinkatu breakfast.buffet Bikes canbehired (€15). a generousis therestaurant which serves daunting butdelicious.Keitto (kitchen) backlit togive roomsamoodyglow– of anautumnforest hanging over itthat’s and wheatytones.Every roomhasaprint design, mer €90/112; &sum- 23a;s/d€136/171,weekends Pohjoinen Rautatiekatu vated roomsdecked outinchocolate browns Academica Summer Hostel Academica SummerHostel Hotel Linna Hotel o Hostel Erottajanpuisto Hostel 29; s/d up to €130/119, weekends upto€130/250; 29; s/dupto€130/119,weekends ) Anexcellentcentraloptionifyou’re
you’ll love thishiphotel withreno- ) Foryourowncastle,thisfitsthe Hotelli Helka Hotelli nip h
Oneof thebesthostels, thisdefi- ) ( % men 6.30am-9pmTue, Thu&Sat,women Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels 010-344 4100;www.palace.fi; Lönnro-
( % ) Ifyou’re intoFinnish
( ( % 3108 7401; Yrjönkatu 21;ad- 3108 7401;Yrjönkatu %
642 169;www.erottajan 613 580; www.helka.fi; 613 580;www.helka.fi; ( % 1311 4334;www kesahotellis isoneof h Jun-Aug;
HELSINKI EXCURSION
a lunch 171 4-11pm h A rela- pulla, h was built in was built in Helsinki’s best Helsinki’s karjalanpiirakka Originally designed Originally designed (covered market; Eteläranta; market;(covered Eteläranta; 612 7393; www.chezdominique.fi; 612 7393; www.chezdominique.fi;
%
lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Tue-Sat) ( h 6128 5300; Eteläesplanadi 14; mains €36- 6128 5300; Eteläesplanadi 14; 228 90840; www.restaurantdemo.fi; Uuden- 228 90840; www.restaurantdemo.fi; 665 565; www.olo-restaurant.com; Kasarmikatu % % ( ( Kauppahalli
% A favourite with Helsinki’s chefs, this chefs, Helsinki’s with A favourite lunch & dinner Mon-Fri) (
8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat) h Demo Olo The Savoy Chez Dominique graze on. The always-busy Kauppatori is is Kauppatori graze on. The always-busy snacks and good for grilled salmon, cheap as berries in summer. produce such fresh and Most food stalls set up plastic chairs are – which tables on summer afternoons by seagulls. besieged such as Dover sole and Anjou pigeon with with sole and Anjou pigeon as Dover such Finnish flourishes; setmenus (from four include a divine to nine courses) Finnish pastry. 44; mains €75-38; fine-dining scene, Olo newcomer on the tive with a dining unpretentious is refreshingly The menu and whites. greys muted room of sauced lamb with a saddle is playful Finnish of mushrooms or ten- and forest with Madeira der piglet. All meals come with house-baked (try the fruity malt) and a wine list breads all palates. broad enough to to appeal best the country’s one of 1889 and remains good snacks and produce to with markets, 58; stand-out with blondewood and dining room throughout. Dishes source furniture Artek with an eye on the best in local ingredients sustainabilityconserving and your food par- miles, with highlights as roasted such that green It’s proof with duck liver. tridge sprouts and to be all alfalfa grub doesn’t have mashed yeast. Rikhardinkatu 4; mains €45-50, set menus €99-139; & dinner Tue-Fri, dinner Sat, closed Jul) loca- to a larger has moved restaurant French Michelin tion but has maintained its pair of classics The menu sticks to French stars. in peasant bring tops on moving before starters pies) as (Karelian or the Forest stew elk, bear like to meaty fare sam- is a carnivore’s which Plate Foreman’s pler served the into a skillet. If you enter in night out. be a top things, it can spirit of fashionable spot does modern European food goose or roasted ravioli as artichoke such at affordable prices. The location means breast it attracts bright young things who delight in rhubarb sorbets. or the liquorice ice cream h Tue-Sat) maankatu €48-52; 9-11; mains €19-25, set menu by Alvar and Aino Aalto, this is definitely a a is definitely this by Alvar and Aino Aalto, )
. This This This ni Kalevala The swankiest The swankiest ) HELSINKI •• Eating i 652 776; Senaatintori; meals 020-1234 604; www.sokoshotels % ( %
( 7425 5588; Aleksanterinkatu 22; mains 020-770 4700; www.klauskhotel.com;020-770 4700; % % ( ( Cafe Engel 8am-10pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, 10am-10pm
11am-11pm Mon-Fri, 1-11pm Sat & Sun) 6159 2959; Kluuvikatu 3; sandwiches €7-8, pies 7.30am-10pm Sun-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat) h h % h (
This heavenly spot in the Senaatintori This heavenly
Savotta o Sokos Hotel Torni Klaus K (Finland’s national epic) quotes woven woven national epic) quotes (Finland’s the lobby and the walls of into the gold €16-25; magazine selection. in the courtyard during summer, irregular in the courtyard during summer, irregular and a plump English-language piano recitals tion of cakes and enticing meals often of of and enticing meals often cakes tion of as a beetroot bent (such lasa- a vegetarian gne). It’s a cultural hub with films shown hums with both tourists and university hums with both tourists and university always a good selec- There’s students alike. €10-18; Sun) ing sundaes or slabs of cake. of ing sundaes or slabs wiches galore, but it’s one of the better places the better but it’s one of galore, wiches or to enjoy tower- confectionery to buy Fazer the flagship for Finland’s mighty chocolate the flagship for Finland’s mighty chocolate sand- are the same There name. of empire €9-10; but it’s a little cavernous, can feel cafe classic EATING EATING Fazer decor. Each room has its own guestbook filled decor. glowing comments. with in art deco and Art Nouveau style, though in art deco and Art Nouveau hip and black have red modern rooms in rich Bar (see p172 ). Now rooms have been stylishly ). Now rooms have p172 Bar (see with the historic feel, in keeping renovated longer the country’s tallest building, it still longer from Ateljee boasts excellent views, especially built as the tallest structure in Helsinki and in Helsinki built as the tallest structure Although Torni. has become Sokos Hotel no .fi; Yrjönkatu 26; s/d €220/250, weekends €105/115; State Building’ was In 1931 ‘Finland’s Empire in all rooms, plus two good restaurants and and restaurants in all rooms, plus two good cool bar. a frostily roofs of bathrooms. But there are worldly worldly are bathrooms. But there of roofs high-speed and DVDs comforts like wi-fi birch-scented toiletries to space-conscious toiletries to space-conscious birch-scented sauna-style to the corrugated architecture thread running onto a framed verse in every in every running onto a framed verse thread from luxurious room. It’s distinctly Finnish, hotel. It’s easily the slickest of the new gen- the new of the slickest It’s easily hotel. with hotels, Helsinki eration of Bulevardi 2; s/d from €140/180; this designer is definitely option in town some rooms, bathtubs. There’s a choice of of a choice There’s rooms, bathtubs. some per day) (€12 is available saunas; wi-fi three Book stay your lonelyplanet.com/hotels at representation of a logger’s mess hall offers mess hall offers a logger’s of representation working food. Waitresses traditional Finnish HELSINKI EXCURSION It’s -5ºC so you’ll need thefurrycapeyou’reIt’s -5ºCsoyou’llneed out of andthebar). ice(thatincludestables side? Thentrythisbarthat’sliterally carved slick club withstellar Itsposition on lighting. Sat) 1a; doorcharge€5-10; katu Kekkosen before hitting the town. as24yearsas high old)so check websites have varyingminimum-age restrictions (some places poppingupallthetime. Nightclubs Helsinki hasabuzzingclubculture withnew ENTERTAINMENT to staircase the top. the bestoption,thenthere’s anarrowwinding panorama. Taking theliftto12thflooris roof of theSokosHotel Torniforthecity worth theclimbuptothistinyperch onthe 2am Mon-Thu, &Sat,2pm-1amSun) noon-2amFri place. party and dancingare theorderof inthis thenight cocktails bands.Beers, andDJsorsalsa taxi with asmallstage thatfeatures aHavana-style place isdoneoutinpeach andmojito limes one of Helsinki’sCertainly brighter bars, this 4; Erottajankatu a minimumage of 24.It’sabove Bodega. La warming drinkincludedintheprice. There’s offered onentryandthecomplimentary €10; witha the night tractor ride. ifyou’re off juniper berries),butease finishing cluding dishes complimenttheFinnishbooze (in- bage soupandothertraditional rolls,salmon film-maker AkiKaurismäki. Foodlike cab- Czech tractorthemefromthemindof Finnish rant andpub(mains€10to€22) Thiskookyrestau-park theirpointyshoes? dered where Cowboyswould theLeningrad Mon, 3pm-3amTue, 3pm-4amWed&Thu) 3-5; Mannerheimintie season. outdoor bring outblankets andheaters tostretch the er’s good.Inautumnterrace bars willoften and rooftops of Helsinki whentheweath- mer terraces thatspilloutontothepavements places toslake yourthirst. Lookout forsum- Finns like adrinkandthere’s noshortage of DRINKING 172 LUX Cafe Cuba! Icebar Arctic Zetor Ateljee Bar Ateljee Ascend intoclubbing heaven atthissuper- h HELSINKI •• Drinking HELSINKI ••Drinking
10pm-4am Wed-Sat) (
% sahti, a ( % 020-775 9350; www.luxnightclub.fi; Urho 020-775 9350;www.luxnightclub.fi; Urho h
(Sokos Hotel Torni, Yrjönkatu 26; (Sokos HotelTorni,Yrjönkatu
010-766 4450;www.ravintolazetor.fi; ( ( % % traditionalaleflavoured with 5pm-2am Sun-Thu, &Sat) 5pm-4amFri h 278 1855; Yliopistonkatu 5;admission 278 1855;Yliopistonkatu 050-505 0425;www.cubacafe.fi; 11am-4am Sat,3pm-1amSun& Not cold enough out- Notcoldenough h
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bar upstairs andheadtothedarkgrotto- Annankatu 6; Annankatu Roobertinkatu 28;doorcharge€2-10; Roobertinkatu they’ll knowyou’re a tourist. Wear anythingotherthanblackhere and theyarebelieve auditioningforMetallica. karaoke, featuring super-serious patronswho to heartherockingest tunesandoften metal huge inFinlandandthisclubistheplace 2; Hietaniemenkatu ties following big gigs. It’softeneventually.’ thespotforafter-par- near theDJbooth,‘Don’trequest. I’llplayit the tunesare often chart-based withasign asa‘hetero-friendlystyles itself gayclub’), in luminescentdesigns.Stillagayvenue (it like dancefloordownstairs that’sdecked out as dragshowsor women-only sessions. 22) andthere are regular aswell clubnights of clubareas openat9pm(minimum age opening cafe-bar (admissionfree). Acouple complexwithanearly- club isamultilevel Sat, noon-4amSun; ternational visitors. Enter via Kamppi Sq. lounge tosweatyfunkwithlocalDJsandin- Musicrunsfromsexyaltitude cocktails. complexes) meansbrilliantviewsandhigh- top of Kamppi (oneof thebiggest shopping principle of its founders. furniture store thesimple design maintains wife Aino, thishomewares, glassware and Originally founded byAlvarAalto and his jewellery. Finnish in wood,Aarika isknownforitsdistinctly 27; shop thathostsmany designers’ works. down innovative craft,thisplaceoperates a Sat, noon-6pmSun) 7; forum.fi; Erottajankatu Helsinki the black-and-white sticker of hipper designers andboutiques.Lookoutfor thePunavuoribig nameplaces,though tourist street intown,you’llfindmostof the wandering alongPohjoisesplanadi, themain to thelatest furniture andhomewares. By Helsinki isknownfordesign, fromfashion SHOPPING Heavy Corner Lost &Found DTM Artek Aarikka Design ForumFinland h 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pmFri) 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, (Don’t Tell Mama;
(www.designd istrict.fi) ( % ( % h 6132 5277; www.artek.fi; Eteläesplanadi18) 6132 5277;www.artek.fi; 652 277; www.aarikka.fi; Pohjoisesplanadi 652 277;www.aarikka.fi; evening only) evening
A good place to start tracking A goodplacetostart ( i ( % h % ) 458 4309;www.heavycorner.com; Scandinavia’s biggest gay h 6pm-late Wed-Sat) 680 1010;www.lostandfound.fi; % ( 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, % 676 315;www.dtm.fi;Iso Youcanskipthe . 6220 810;www.design lonelyplanet.com h Specialising Design District Design District 9am-4am Mon- Metal is
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HELSINKI EXCURSION to 173 or the 7am-7pm Baltic Jet, car ferry, car ferry, h and Superstar is in the city is in the city or on the bus to Tallinn(adult/car to Tallinn(adult/car and Nordlandia Star Nordic Jet Rosella (Frederikinkatu; 681 770; www.njl.info; Kanava (rautatieasema) . Also serves Rostock (Germany) and 228 8544; www.eckeroline.fi; Manner- % 123 577; www.vikingline.fi;Manner- 668 9700; www.lindaliini.ee; Makasiini ( % % ( % 2282 1222; www.tallinksilja.com; Erot- 2282 1222; www.tallinksilja.com; ( ( % Kamppi Station ( Baltic Princess train station Some ferry company offices in Helsinki: company offices Some ferry Four of the five ferry terminals are just off are terminals ferry the five Four of purchased may be at the ter- tickets Ferry which sails daily to Tallinn (adult/car from €19/21, three to (adult/car from €19/21, three which sails daily to Tallinn 3½ hours) year-round. Train Train The by pedestrian subway and is linked centre is the ter- Helsinki metro. with Helsinki’s main railway minus for Finland’s three in Finland to anywhere lines so you can get from here. terminal) Small passenger-only hydrofoil company plying terminal) Small passenger-only (adult from €19, 1½ hours). with up the waters to Tallinn ice-free).are to seven trips daily (when waters Viking Line Bus bus tick- Purchase long-distance and express ets at Mon-Fri, 7am-5pm Sat, 9am-6pm Sun) itself. Buses run to destinations throughout to Russia. Finland and internationally city tourist office. Book in advance during the city tourist office. to mid-August). high season June (late Eckerö Line Linda Line Nordic Jet Line Tallink Boat Boat to and on to Tallinn travel ferries International catamaran a regular is also Stockholm. There to Tallinn. serviceand hydrofoil termi- Katajanokka and Kanava Kauppatori: servednals are 2V bus 13 and trams 2, by termi- Olympia and Makasiini and 4; and last terminal, The 3B and 3T. nals by trams is served (West Terminal), Länsiterminaali bus 15. by (and company’s office minal, from a ferry or, in some cases, the from its website) often heimintie 10, Länsiterminaali) Runs heimintie 10, Länsiterminaali) Runs tajankatu five services 19) Runs at least from Kanava from €23/20, (adult/vehicle one way terminal to Tallinn two to 3½ hours) on high-speed heimintie 14) Operates car ferry from €19/18, 2½ hours) from Katajanokka and Makasiini terminals. slower Stockholm (Sweden). terminal) Runs two catamarans, Tallinn (adult/car from €28/35, 1¾ hours) sailing from May (adult/car from €28/35, 1¾ hours) Tallinn to September weather) with or later (depending on the daily crossings. seven
Blue1 Blue1 Hel- Finnair Finncomm and 0200 18181; www.copter % ( have budget flights to flights to budget have
622 4422; www.ivanhelsinki.fi; 11am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm 11am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm and its subsidiaries offer and its subsidiaries offer 278 5051; Aleksanterinkatu 26-28; 686 0240; www.marimekko.fi; www.marimekko.fi; 686 0240; 622 2206; Kämp Galleria, Pohjoise- 1211; Aleksanterinkatu 52) % h ( % Finland’s most celebrated celebrated most Finland’s % % HELSINKI •• Getting & Away There ( (
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Until Copterline suspended servicesUntil Copterline in Stockmann Sauna Market Moomin Shop IvanaHelsinki Marimekko h % % % Sunday) in a zippy 18 minutes. There is a is a There Sunday) in a zippy 18 minutes. that serviceschance in the fu- will resume the website. – check ture 2b) Friday, 9am to 5pm Saturday, 10am to 4pm helicopter. helicopter. line.com; Hernesaari helicopter terminal, Hernematalankatu late 2008 (a victim of the global financial the global financial 2008 (a victim of late was by way to Tallinn crisis), the quickest 19km north of Helsinki. of 19km north some Finnish and international destinations. and international some Finnish Vantaa, city of The airport is in the satellite ( ( with flights to 20 Finnish cities – generally with flights cities – generally to 20 Finnish carriers at least once a day. Budget ( 1; as well as domestic services,international There are flights to Helsinki from the USA, from the flights to Helsinki are There on many airlines. Europe and Asia GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING THERE & AWAY Air jewellery, Lapponia jewellery, Moomintroll lots more. and souvenirs of Finnish souvenirs and Sámi handicrafts, Finnish souvenirs of Koru Kalevala textiles, as well as Finnish accoutrements for your own sauna. for your accoutrements h other of ladles and hundreds water bers, Finnish. most-loved children’s characters, the the characters, children’s most-loved and in English Moomins, including books splanadi 33; to Finland’s related Stock up on all things icons. Fennofolk style, it has to-die-for dresses dresses it has to-die-for style, Fennofolk Finnish that deftly play with and T-shirts Sat) as shirts, dresses, bags, sheets and almost bags, sheetsas shirts, dresses, almost and application. possible every other and hipper new designs, are available here here available new designs, are and hipper lonelyplanet.com way €98, hourly 7am to 8pm Monday to way €98, hourly 7am to 8pm Monday to Pohjoisesplanadi 31) Pohjoisesplanadi Uudenmaankatu 15; designer fabrics, including warm florals florals including warm designer fabrics, sinki’s ‘everything store’ does a good line sinki’s ‘everything store’ HELSINKI EXCURSION rents outqualitybikes including24-speed h rikinkatu rikinkatu Greenbike the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake or bybicyclebutthere’s alsoametrolineand HelsinkiCentral iseasytoget aroundonfoot Public Transport free mapavailable atthecity tourist office. the Kampii andForum;forotherlocationsconsult on weekends. There are undercover carparksin tre butare cost€3perhourduringtheweek, free be abigheadache. Metered areas inthecitycen- Parking inHelsinki isstrictlyregulated andcan Car &Motorcycle hybrid bikes.mountain reclaim itwhen youreturn itto any stand. then deposit a€2coinintothelockablestand, 2km fromKauppatori. Thebikes are free: you green ‘CityBikes’ withinaradiusof atstands tourist office. Thecityprovides 300distinctive of acopyof theHelsinki cyclingmapatthe paths, Helsinki hold isidealforcycling.Get With aflatinnercityandwell-marked cycling Bicycle GETTING AROUND ticketing information was available. St Petersburg, butatthetimeof research no trainisscheduled to 2010 anewhigh-speed 13 hours) andVyborg (€42,fourhours). In St Petersburg (€62,6½hours), Moscow(€92, national trains,includingtheonesthatgoto 174 © LonelyPlanetPublications For somethingmore sophisticated, There ticket isaseparate counter forinter- 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pmSat,10am-2pmSun) 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, Parking Guideforthe InnerCity of Helsinki, HELSINKI •• Getting Around HELSINKI ••Getting 31; bikes perday/24hr/weekfrom 31; bikes
( % 8502 2850; www.greenbike.fi; Fred-8502 2850;www.greenbike.fi;
€15/20/60;
a www.jt-line.fi) Kauppatori toSuomenlinna (return €5.50, ad Vuosaari. and part of thecityandnortheast toMellunmäki line extends toRuoholahti inthewestern daily fromabout 6amto11.30pm.Themetro of thecity’sR-kioskis. run Metro services tickets asdomany sell andpasses, stations andHakaniemiand theRautatientori metro 10am-3pmSat) Fri, August. to 30 minutes), 8amto7pmfrommid-May are available atthepier. times hourly,6.20amto2.20am).Tickets Kauppatori (return €3.80,15minutes, three p169 ) departfromthepassenger quayat within Helsinki. (see Card p168 ) gives youfree travel anywhere for ashorttime. Alternatively, theHelsinki €6/12/18) are thebestoptionifyou’re intown €2 fullfare. Touristtickets (one/three/five days inadvance.purchased A singletramticket is onboard,€2when costs €2.20whenpurchased hour flat-fare ticket foranyHKLtransport trams andaferry toSuomenlinna. Aone- .hkl.fi) Liikennelaitos Kaupungin The city’spublictransportsystem, reasonably comprehensive transportnetwork. phone foracab on Alternatively, orSenaatintori. tion, busstation locatedat oneof stands atthetrainsta- thetaxi You canhailcabsonthestreet orjoinaqueue Taxi HKL ferries toSuomenlinna(see HKL offices ,
operates buses, metroandlocaltrains, operates buses, runsanhourlywaterbus from
( h attheKamppi bus station 7.30am-7pm Mon-Thu, 7.30am-5pm % 0100 0700.
(HKL; JT-Lines % lonelyplanet.com 310 1071;www
( % Helsingin Helsingin 534 806;