16 ON TENTERHOOKS By Suresh Pradhan MAY 30, 2004 But it took 14 days after Prime VOL. 1, NO. 6 Minister Thapa’s resignation COVER : Kishor Kayastha (98510 52778) for the King and the parties to www.nation.com.np start talking. First, though, came the frantic rounds of consultations with everyone—from former prime ministers to diplomats to civil society representatives to Palace insiders. 24 All’s Not Well In Mao-land By Binaj Gurubacharya in Musikot In Rukum, one administrative chief is only 20-years old but rules 35 villages. He says he was elected district chief in a ballot. All the candidates, however were believed to have links to the Maoists. This, after all, is the Maoist heartland; there is no political opposition. 26 Withdrawal Symptoms COVER STORY By John Narayan Parajuli in Damak UNHCR has made it clear that come what 18 Collateral Damage may, any likely extension of its December 2005 deadline for the pullout from the By Sushma Joshi camps may be stretched by six months at The repercussion of bandas goes far beyond economics. most. But refugee leaders are apprehensive about the proposed pullout. While television footage of truckloads of okra being discarded by farmers in protest on our highways capture the ARTS & SOCIETY level of damage to the national economy, what goes 30 Worldly-wise unreported are the small, micro-level effects on Nepal’s Compassion most vulnerable citizens—women, children and old people By Tiku Gauchan Arya Tara School takes in girls from poor families, ordains them as nuns and COLUMNS provides them with both a Buddhist and 34 Of Witchcraft a secular education. 11 Unchain My And Witches 32 Tell Me A Story Education By Deepak Thapa By Satish Jung Shahi By Suman Pradhan It is a thin line to cross from believing Maithili storytelling culture is still I happen to be one of those growing that the stars rule our lives to being vibrant, primarily because women number of people who do not see any convinced that someone is the cause of storytellers have kept up the tradition. meaningful purpose the politicians-in- our misfortunes. students’-disguise serve. 36 Objection Overruled DEPARTMENTS 28 Rape Seed By Jogendra Ghimire 6 LETTERS By Samuel Thomas Appointments of Anup Raj Sharma 10 PICTURE OF THE WEEK As the west rejects genetically modi- and Balram K.C., none of them fied crops, they are being dumped in Appellate Court judges, to the 14 CAPSULES the South. This is one such story. Of Supreme Court Bench have come 35 CITY PAGE how canola, the Canadian oilseed, is under fire from the establishment. 40 KHULA MANCH: MILAN RAI invading our own Khokana, once But Sharma and K.C. both have solid famous for its mustard presses. track records. 41 BOOKS 42 LAST WORD

5 Letters

Nepal is in a worse state Nation Weekly, The Media House, Tripureshor, Kathmandu, Nepal (Regd. 113/059-060). Tel: 2111102, 4229825, 4261831, 4263098 now than it was 19 EDITOR: Akhilesh Upadhyay [email protected] “ CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Suman Pradhan months ago when the COPY EDITOR: Tiku Gauchan STAFF WRITERS: Sushma Joshi, Satish Jung Shahi PHOTOJOURNALIST: Sagar Shrestha King assumed executive DESIGNER: Raj Kumar Shrestha

AD & CIRCULATION DIRECTOR: Krishna Shrestha MARKETING EXECUTIVES: powers... Sarita Gautam and Rameshwor Ghimire SANJEEV M. SHERCHAN [email protected] MARKETING CONSULTANT: Kreepa Shrestha CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Nripendra Karmacharya Bush begone! I too sincerely hope that the Iraq crisis SUBSCRIPTION: Bipin Raj Ojha ” WHILE I WHOLE-HEARTEDLY will serve as an eye-opener for the [email protected] agree with the main thrust of Samrat Americans and that they will choose to PUBLISHER: The Mirror Media Pvt. Ltd Upadhyay’s article (“Bush Begone!” fire Bush out of the White House come AD ENQUIRIES: Tel. 4229825, 4261831, 4263098 Sense & Nonsense, May 23), I am also November. People like him do not de- COLOR SEPARATION: ScanPro, Pulchowk, 5548861, 5552335 PRINTING: Variety Printing Press, 4278869 tempted to soothe his perplexity over serve to lead 250 million-plus Ameri- DISTRIBUTION: R.B. News, 4232784, 4244679 the question: how can one “support the cans who are otherwise generally open- Nation Weekly is published every Monday by The Mirror Media Pvt. Ltd. minded and warm-hearted. All Rights Reserved. The reproduction of the contents of this troops” while, at the same time, “oppose publication, in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited without the ANIL J. SHAHI prior consent of the publisher. the war?” NEW YORK Vol. 1, No. 6. For the week May 24-30, 2004, released on May 24 CONTACT The King and them KING GYANENDRA HAS MAIN- www.nation.com.np tained that he removed the popularly elected government of Sher Bahadur Deuba in 2002 to prevent further dete- We prefer to receive letters via e-mail, without rioration of the Nepali state. More than attachments. Writers should disclose any connection or relationship with the subject of their comments. a year and half later, nothing could be All letters must include an address and daytime and further from the truth. Nepal is in a evening phone numbers. We reserve the right to edit On the other hand, we have to un- worse state now than it was 19 months letters for clarity and space. E-mail: [email protected] derstand that the American foot soldiers, ago when the King assumed executive Fax: 4216281 mainly composed of young men and powers and installed his handpicked gov- Mail: Nation Weekly women in their late teens and early twen- ernment The Media House, GPO 8975, EPC 5620 Tripureshor, Kathmandu, Nepal. ties, did not volunteer to go fight in While the political parties and their Iraq—they were merely being good sol- leaders must also shoulder their share of SUBSCRIPTION diers and following the orders of their responsibility for the worsening situa- E-mail: [email protected] Nation Weekly, The Media House, GPO 8975 Commander-in-Chief, the president. tion in Nepal, the need of the hour is for EPC 5620, Tripureshor, Kathmandu, Nepal Therefore, by “supporting the troops” the King and political parties to work Tel: 2111102, 4229825, 4261831, 4263098 Americans are only hoping that their together to put democracy back on track. Fax: 4216281 loved ones do well in what they were The Nepali polity is still maturing and trained to do and return home not in to discredit it by penalizing the very coffin boxes. democratic process is foolhardy. If anyone detests what is going on in Iraq The time has come for the King to and vociferously opposes the war (and I stop blaming the political parties and happen to be one of them!), he, instead leaders for all the country’s ills, and to of putting the blame on the troops, make way for an all-party government as should put the culprit’s label squarely the first step in restoring democracy and subscription on the handful of men who ordered them securing peace and prosperity in Nepal. into this quagmire: President George W. For the political parties, the time has [email protected] Bush and his team of extremely narrow- come to let bygones be bygones, discon- minded, heartless zealots who seem to tinue daily street protests to reciprocate be unaffected by the deaths of human the King’s gesture (if he stops playing 2111102 beings, both of their obedient soldiers’ one party against another, agrees to the formation of an all-party government SEE PAGE 22. and their enemies’.

6 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly and does not violate the norms of the constitutional monarchy) and uphold the spirit “Rashtriya Mel Milap,” the policy of the late B. P. Koirala that brought the King and the parties together. SANJEEV M. SHERCHAN, ASIA SOCIETY, NEW YORK We’re committed Genesis of leaders to you SWARNIM WAGLE’S TAKE ON Nepal’s leaders (“Leaders Classified,” Writing on the Wall, May 23) was an in- teresting read. He seems to have a sound Here at Nation Weekly the very same care and attention that grasp of Nepal’s modern political his- go into our magazine go into customer service. This means that if tory. But what about a closer look at the genesis of individual leaders? Sher you’re a Nation Weekly subscriber, your complete satisfaction Bahadur Deuba, Girija Prasad Koirala, is guaranteed because it’s our top priority. Madhav Kumar did not shoot to star- dom overnight and a lot must have gone into their emergence as national lead- We’re always n When you have ers. Perhaps Mr. Wagle can help trace suggestions where the fault lines lie—why did these here to help…. or comments - especially about ways gaints fail when it mattered most: post- n When you have a in which we can improve subscription 1990? Perhaps it’s the parties’ undemo- question service - we welcome them. cratic traditions, Nepal’s own deeply about your subscription, such as entrenched feudalism, or perhaps it’s undelivered issues, duplicate n When you want the leaders’ failure to educate them- invoices, your subscription uninteruupted delivery - selves to the requirement of modern expiration date, or anything else guaranteed leadership. Or a combination of it and – please don’t hesitate to get in please be sure to renew your or more? A similar piece on Nepali touch. Be sure to include your subscription early. We'll notify you in monarchy would shed light on the Full Name and Address when advance, so you needn't miss a people’s leaders even better since they you contact us. single issue. do not operate in a political vacuum. So far, my knowledge of our kings is based only on social studies books in the Write or telephone: school curricula. PRABIN PRADHAN BHOTAHITY E-mail: [email protected]

TIKU GAUCHAN’S “LUNCH Telephone: 2111102, 4229825, 4261831 Hour Rush” (May 23) is a welcome Fax: 4216281 breather in a newsmagazine that gets Mailing Address: Nation Weekly overly serious at times. Give me my food GPO Box 8975 EPC 5620 before you give me food for thought. SUSHMA SHRESTHA Media House MAHARAJGUNJ Tripureshwor Kathmandu, Nepal I WAS PEEVED WHEN I LEARNED that a national glory like Ram Man Dai is facing acute housing problems (“Ram Man Dai” by Sanjeev Uprety, Arts and Society, May 23). Both the municipality and the government should be ashamed of the fact that he received no compen- sation after his family house was seized. Why are such people mistreated? BASIC KATHET THE MIRROR MEDIA PVT. LTD. TALCHHIKHEL LALITPUR nation weekly | MAY 30, 2004 7 Read the story behind the news

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FIRST IN LINE: UML leader Madhav Kumar Nepal outside the Palace after his audience with the King

nw/Sagar Shrestha Meanwhile Unchain My Education

I happen to be one of those growing number of people who do not see any meaningful purpose the politicians-in-students’-disguise serve

BY SUMAN PRADHAN Despite these changes, student wings continue to function as they always have, seemingly oblivious to this changing political milieu. Stu- ince April 1, as the five political parties intensified their street dent union members blindly work for their parties at the expense of educa- Sprotests against “regression,” I have watched, sometimes with tional agendas, while the parties fail to recognize the danger in allowing the admiration and sometimes with dismay, the young students who politicization of educational institutions and students to flourish. have been at the forefront of the movement. Truth be told: without their What has the politicization of student groups really done? In the active participation, the agitation would have fizzled out long before end, the overt politicization of our educational institutions, particularly the Surya Bahadur Thapa had even considered resignation. public institutions, is coming at the cost of students themselves. It has But watching these students lead the protests and fight pitched worsened an already stumbling educational system. It has distorted battles with police evokes mixed emotions in me. I agree with their point student/faculty relations. And worst of all, it has turned students of the that political power should be wielded by political parties entrusted by organizations into the pawns of the parties. sovereign voters. And that, no matter how corrupt or inefficient these It’s no wonder that students who are serious about their education, parties are, voters can always throw them out in the hustings. But my and can afford it, go to private schools and colleges where politics is agreement with these agitating students and their parties ends there. definitely a no no. It’s often the poor student from the villages, who might I happen to be one of those growing number of people who do not have mortgaged his land to a local sahuji to pursue higher education in see any meaningful purpose these budding-politicians-in-students’-dis- the cities, who bears the brunt of this chaos in our public education guise serve. Alright, they serve the political parties, for whom the various institutions. affiliated student wings supply a steady stream of fresh storm-troopers Given the chaos fostered by student union politics, why has no one to push their various agendas. But do they serve any educational pur- done anything about it? There are two reasons for this. The first is that the poses? Indeed, do they even serve the nation’s larger interests? political parties actively encourage student politics for the simple reason that If it is true, as said by many, that only widespread education can lift it provides them a mass of energetic youth to fight their political battles. The Nepal out of its current morass, then student political activism is ironically current street protests are a case in point. The other is that, ambitious young working against that goal. By chaining active politics with public education, students who strive for a political career see student activism as a ticket to the student unions and their mother parties national politics. In this, they are BR are ensuring that the hundreds of thousands following the path of their illustri- of students who attend our public educational ous forbearers such as Sher institutions every year do not get a sound edu- Bahadur Deuba, Dr. Ram cation. Sharan Mahat and countless This is not to blame the various party- others who went on to become aligned student wings which all came into ex- leaders in their parties and even istence during the dark days of the Panchayat. prime ministers and ministers. During those days, the student bodies and The situation can be campus elections even served a noble pur- righted if these two reasons are pose: providing the only open forum for com- dealt with effectively. If the petitive politics, albeit at the college and uni- parties are sincere about their versity level. These unions became the tools past election manifestoes— of the banned political parties to expand their they claim they want to pro- organizational and ideological base. The com- vide sound education for all— plete suffocation of free political thought during the Panchayat turned then they should distance themselves from student unionism. How about the student unions and elections into vital outlets and safety valves that unchaining all the student unions from their mother parties? innocuously propagated the ideal of democratic politics. I thank the Secondly, the parties should develop an alternate system which student unions for that. allows ambitious youth and students a clear roadmap to party politics. But times have changed. We no longer live in the Panchayat (though For, as long as these youths see student politics as a ticket to party critics of the current dispensation complain about creeping politics, they will have a vested interest in keeping the system alive no Panchayatization once again). And at least in theory, Nepal has been a matter how corrupting an influence it is on overall education. multi-party democracy since 1990 where politics is freely practiced be- These measures understandably call for strong political will from the party yond campus compound walls. The nation as a whole has gone through leaderships. But more than that, they call for the need to question the status a transformation from autocracy to democratic practices, to a system quo. Why should things remain as they have for the last 40 years? based on free political competition. [email protected] nation weekly | MAY 30, 2004 11 Collegiate Association for the Research of Principles (CARP - NEPAL)

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Mounting toll which of Nagarkot’s hotels The Royal Nepal Army finds itself featured by the (RNA) put the Maoist toll Review? Club Himalaya, since the breakdown of the whose owner Yogendra ceasefire in August at 2,104 Shakya says, “Many people and that of the Army at 201. are simply skipping RNA Spokesman Brig.Gen. Kathmandu.” Rajendra Bahadur Thapa said the Army had successfully ac- SLC results complished its operation in Bandas, protests and Maoist Rolpa and Baglung, the blockades could delay the re- Maoist strongholds. sults of this year’s School Leaving Certificate Examina- tions. However, Examination BRAVO: Sagar Shrestha, Nation’s photojournalist, wins the All the highs “Viewer’s Choice Award” at the recently concluded National Bombs, bandas and pollution Controller Birendra Kumar Forum of Photo Journalists have made Kathmandu less Singh said his office is trying attractive, so head for its best to get the results out had their local addresses using water pumps in their Nagarkot, says Far Eastern by mid-June. A total 317,001 mentioned. The lists of DV- homes. But that’s only one Economic Review (May 6), students had taken the S.L.C 2005 winners have also been of many problems. Even dur- which has profiled Nagarkot examinations in 905 centers posted on the wall of the Gen- ing the best of times, water in its Asia/Life section. “Want across the country. eral Post Office in Sundhara. authorities can meet only to see the Himalayas without The U.S. government selects two-third of the Valley’s de- actually climbing them?” asks It’s time for DV upto 50,000 applicants as win- mand. According to a study, the Review. “Go to Four hundred thirty-three ners to the Diversity Visas some 40 percent of the Nagarkot.” Nagarkot has Nepalis have received the from around the world annu- Valley’s water is lost to pil- been described as a “breezy, Diversity Visa-2005 Lottery, ally, including Nepal, for ferage. The capital’s long- one-road village surrounded the ticket to permanenent countries that are under-rep- term water problems will by pine forests that perfume U.S. residency.The Nepal resented among 400,000 to perhaps be solved only after the air and ancient farm ter- Samacharpatra reported 153 500,000 immigrants traveling the Melamchi Water Project races that slice the hillsides of them had Kathmandu’s to the United States each year. is complete. But for now, the into giant-sized step.” Guess postal address—of them 70 Last year, 4,259 Nepalis had monsoon is almost here and won the DV Lottery, accord- Kathmanduites will prob- Celebrating womanhood ing to postal officials. ably stop complaining until another dry season. Press situation The International Press Insti- tute has termed Prime Minis- ter Surya Bahadur Thapa’s term as “memorable” for de- moralizing the press with the excessive use of force. At its 53rd World Congress in War- saw, a report presented by IPI his year’s Laxmi and 25 percent in the total pas- Nepal said Nepal detained 300 Award (named after senger car segments. The journalists and human rights T activists on April 17 for pro- Laxmi Bank) for the award was a part of the “Cel- Woman Entrepreneur of the ebrating Womanhood 2004” testing the policehigh handed- Year went to Binita Pradhan, campaign. Other awardees: ness against fellow journalists. Dysentry outbreak Executive Director of AVCO first women trekker Angdeli With the rain came dysentary International Pvt. Ltd. The Sherpa, educationist Rani Water shortage and diarrohea. Doctors in company is the sole distributor Devi Kakshyapati, fashion de- As the temperature shot up to the capital’s Sukraraj Tropi- of Hyundai Motor Company signer Gyani Shobha Tuladhar, the record 30s early last week, cal Hospital in Teku re- and Hyundai Motor India Ltd. social worker Radha Khadka, the capital’s residents were in ported a sharp rise in diar- Under Pradhan, the company police woman Gita Upreti, for yet another pre-monsoon rhoea cases. They also re- sales increased from 51 units to taekwondo athelete Sangina blues. Nepal Water Supply ported cases of cholera and over 700 units, commanding a Baidhya, writer Durga Corporation says the problem advised Kathmandu residents market share of over 30 percent Pokharel and artist Asmina intensified after 95 percent of to avoid roadside food and to in small passenger car segment Ranjit. its 123,000 consumers started drink filtered water.

14 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly Nepal’s knights ades. But there was one Finland has knighted two unique protest in Chitwan Nepalis. Mohan Man Sainju, that made headlines last week. Advisor of WWF Nepal and Kantipur reported that 300 Chandra P Gurung, Country farmers in Chitwan dumped Representative of WWF at least 500 quintals of their Nepal, have received vegetable on the Mahendra “Knight, First Class, the Or- Highway after the Maoists der of the Lion of Finland.” brought all cargo trucks to a The award was handed over grinding halt for five days in to them by Glen Lindholm, the area. The two-day five-

Ambassador of Finland to nw/SS party banda the week before Nepal. The decorations are was followed by a three-day in appreciation of their Nepal banda last week, this contribution towards biodi- Week in politics States says the King and parties one called by the Moaists. At versity conservation. Sainju, May 14: Parties announce ad- should sit for talks to patch up least two taxis were bombed who is an economist, once ditional protests. May 15: Se- differences. May 19: King by suspected Maoists in the served as vice-chairman of nior NC(D) leader Krishna meets five-party leaders jointly capital during the banda. the National Planning Com- Prasad Bhattarai says he is ready in Nagarjun Palace. May 20: mission. He was also an am- for the prime ministerial chair, King meets CPN(UML) Gen- Foreign advice bassador to the United States. should it come his way. May eral Secretary Madhav Kumar Pakistan’s Ambassador to Gurung is the designer of the 16: Maoists renew their pro- Nepal for two hours at Nepal Zamir Akram says first community-based inte- posal for roundtable talks Narayanhity; outgoing prime Nepal can solve its own prob- grated conservation and de- brokered by the UN, which minister Surya Bahadur Thapa lems but then everybody velopment project in Nepal, will include the King, parties says it is now up to the parties should work together to find the Annapurna Conservation and civil society representa- to resolve the crisis. May 21: a solution. Area Project (ACAP). tives; on the same day, fomer King meets Nepali Congress Ambassador Akram has Prime Minister Sher Bahadur President Girija Prasad Koirala also said that Pakistan was ex- Climbing season Deuba says it was time the at Narayanhity. pecting King Gyanendra to It’s time again to update the country went for the constitu- visit Islamabad. The invita- mountaineering record ent assembly. May 17: King Banda protests tion to the King was handed books. And not all of the en- meets 353 civil society repre- There have been quite a few over at the last SAARC Sum- tries have been happy ones sentatives in Rajanikunj, protests over the effects of mit held in Kathmandu in this time round. Scores of Gokarna. May 18: United protests, bandas and block- January 2002. climbers made it to the Everest summit in the first nw/SS two days of the new moun- taineering season which started on May 15. Appa Sherpa broke his own record for most climbs when he conquered the world’s high- est mountain for the 14th time. With her fourth climb, Lakpa Sherpa became the most frequent Everester among women. Likewise, 27-year-old Pemba Dorje Sherpa set a new world record for the fastest climb with a time of eight hours and 10 minutes. By the time we went to press, four climbers had perished on the slopes of Everest—three Koreans and a Japanese. A fifth climber, a Bulgarian, was missing. HOW GREEN IS MY VALLEY: Parts of Kathmandu were flooded last week with the premonsoon rain nation weekly | MAY 30, 2004 15 Politics

BY SURESH PRADHAN of the King himself, who was apparently racy, human rights and dialogue in Nepal feeling the heat from agitating parties and while addressing a function in Dhaka. opes were high when the international community. The much-awaited Nagarjun consul- But it took 14 more days for the King tations broke the ice and paved the way Surya Bahadur and the parties to start talking. First, for more consultations between the H though, came the frantic rounds of con- monarch and the five party heads, who Thapa, the second sultations with everyone—from former have been at loggerheads since October prime minister appointed by prime ministers to diplomats to civil 4, 2002. A day after Nagarjun, the King King Gyanendra in as many society representatives to Palace insid- held one-to-one talks with Madhav ers. Kumar Nepal, the CPN(UML) general years, stepped down on May The timing was interesting: the secretary, for nearly two hours. 7 after 11 tumultuous Nagarjun Durbar consultations with the While Nepal was careful not to di- parties last week took place a day after vulge all the details of the talks, he months at the helm. Many in the U.S. State Department sounded stressed that the King was anxious to re- the political circle even specu- alarm bells over Nepal’s civil war, “rights solve the stalemate. Most fundamentally, abuses” and political deadlock. Assistant the meeting marked the beginning of lated that Thapa had thrown Secretary of State Christina Rocca, on a renewed rounds of consultations with in the towel at the prodding visit to South Asia, emphasized democ- party leaders. After Nepal, it was Koirala. ON TENTERHOOKS

WHAT’S THE GOOD NEWS?

16 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly By agreeing to the parties’ core demand actly had transpired between him and the Clearly, the parties have adopted a two- of meeting them all together, the King at the Palace,” a Koirala aide told pronged approach: intensify street Nagarjun consultations helped the par- Nation. He said that Koirala apparently demos to put pressure on the monarch ties and the King to take the first impor- had strong reservations over what the and, at the same time, keep holding ne- tant step towards a possible reconcilia- King had said during the gotiations with the tion. talks. While it is still not monarch to have him After Nagarjun, Nepal and Koirala clear what rankles Koirala, The Palace-parties restore the dissolved seemed to have no qualms about meet- the aide says Koirala left House of Representa- ing the King separately in the days that Narayanhity with these standoff may take tives and, that way, re- followed, a remarkable shift in their po- remarks, “Your Majesty, I claim the achieve- sition. But on concrete terms, last week’s am leaving with some res- some time to ments of the 1990’s parleys made little headway. “The King ervations, and I am not resolve, especially Jana Andolan. is keen to resolve the crisis,” Koirala said going to make any com- Whatever the dif- on Friday after he met the King, “but I ments.” the issue of ferences between the cannot say anything conclusive until the In the meantime, the five-party leaders and results are there for all of us to see.” standing committee of where the the Palace, many— Koirala told reporters outside the CPN(UML) de- sovereignty lies and most importantly, Narayanhity, “We are for the reinstate- cided on Friday to go the general public ment of the House to restore people’s ahead with the street sick and tired of the power...and I am neither happy nor dis- demonstrations. “All the parties should never-ending series of street demos appointed.” move ahead according to the Constitu- and agitations and Nepal bandas—have Meanwhile, Koirala’s close aides sug- tion and a political resolution should taken the development very positively. gest that the leader was “not happy at all” be explored to take along even the One such person is former finance at the outcome of Friday’s talks with the Maoists,” Nepal told reporters on minister Ram Sharan Mahat. “The King. “He looked very ponderous and Thursday when asked to discuss the King’s observations are very positive,” didn’t share much with us as to what ex- content of his talks with the King. he argues in a newspaper article. “His wish to act only in a consti- ON THEIR WAY IN tutional manner is beyond question. But the problem is—the present imbroglio originated from the past acts for which there existed no constitutional provision.” The arguments and counter-arguments could go on and on. “But the wisest de- cision,” says Narayan Man Bijukchhe, leader of the Nepal

nw/SS Majdoor Kisan Party “would be to put the King among the

nw/SS people a unity between the parties and the Palace is the need of the hour. That’s why we are requesting the King to understand this , so that we can tackle the Maoist issue.” But for now, all indications are that the Palace-parties stand- off may take some time to re- solve, especially the most con- tentious issue of where the sov- ereignty lies. Until that issue is ON HIS WAY OUT resolved, will the parties and the monarch find a common meet- ing point? Both realize that the

nw/SS Maoist insurgency continues to

nw/SS take a heavy toll on the national economy and security . nation weekly | MAY 30, 2004 17 Cover Story

18 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly DamageDamageCollateralCollateral

The repercussion of bandas goes far beyond economics. While television footage of truckloads of okra being discarded by farmers in protest on our highways capture the level of damage to the national economy, what goes unreported are the small, micro-level effects on Nepal’s most vulnerable citizens—women, children and old people wSgr Shrestha nw/Sagar

nation weekly | MAY 30, 2004 19 Cover Story

BY SUSHMA JOSHI But this can be misleading. The reper- etables so that I don’t have to ask my cussion of bandas goes far beyond econom- husband for money to spend,” she says. abin fever—the feel- ics. While television footage of truckloads Although her husband’s earnings as a ing of being cooped of okra being discarded by farmers in pro- plumber will tide over their household up inside a small test on our highways capture the level of expenses, she will get hit where it hurts space—is a common damage to the national economy, what goes the most—her independence. feeling during the unreported are the small, micro-level ef- Rammaya Tamang is even less lucky. bandas. Groups of fects on Nepal’s most vulnerable citi- A divorced mother of three teenagers, only men, restless from zens—women, children and old people. one of whom is employed, Tamang also C Tika Pradhan of Bhojpur sells her sells fruits and vegetables to make a living inactivity, walk, cycle or motorbike through the empty vegetables at the Handigaon vegetable at Bishalnagar Chowk. For her, the three streets. The downward plunge of air market every evening. For the three days days of lost time mean not just a loss of pollutants, and the holiday feeling in the during last week’s banda, she was only earnings, but an increase of workload in air, can lull an observer into thinking able to sell the leftover vegetables she private homes where she has to do me- bandas are popular events. bought on Monday morning. “I sell veg- nial tasks to make ends meet. Tamang pre-

I neither support nor oppose the CAMPUS POLITICS political parties. I just want them not to hamper my work,” she Your Freedom Ends complains, voicing a common re- frain heard among many nonpar- Where My Nose Begins tisan students. BY BISWAS BARAL Still, most of my friends and classmates seem to support the ur dingy psychology movement against “regression” classroom perched atop but like the student from St.

O nw/SS the old building of Xavier’s College they believe that Ghantaghar barely remains open the goal can be achieved without these days. As if we had not had calling for bandas and, by keeping enough bandas and on-campus education separate from politics. rioting to mar our studies, some It’s no fun when you have to students had locked all the rooms complete most of the courses at in the campus for supposedly get- home, all by yourself. Our teach- ting poor grades in their practicals. ers aren’t feeling any better either. Due to this ‘start-stop’ time- When one of them, who takes table, most students are visibly classes at Padma Kanya Campus despondent. All kinds of views are before she heads to our college, rife in our small circle. Some, while GROUND ZERO:Tri-Chandra College is perhaps the failed to turn up for the third con- morally supporting the protestors, nervecenter of Kathmandu’s student politics secutive day recently, we fired an- are against the disruption of their gry queries at her. “What can I do,” studies; some feel the cause of between two to two and a half at other times—end up disrupting she replied, “I leave my classes at democracy is much greater than hours) of practicals where a fac- classes, by pelting stones, when Padma Kanya early, but I am held their education; while still others ulty evaluates the student’s class- they are not organizing bandas. up by the riots in Bag Bazaar ev- remain vehemently against any room presentation of a “subject”— Dipendra Subedi, a B.A. sec- ery time, and hence I end up be- kind of disruption in studies and, how they respond to an event or ond-year student, remains deeply ing late. Some days, the police naturally, against protests or idea. suspicious of the intent of the po- completely stop us from entering bandas. To say that in Tri-Chandra Col- litical parties. He says, “As I see it, the Ratnapark area. I have no Last week, we could only have lege, a hub for student politics and they are rebels without a cause. choice but to head home.” one class out of the seven sched- riots, the campus authorities are Even if democracy is restored, what I do support the campaign for uled. As it is, even without disrup- quick to dismiss all classes at the can we expect of them? They the restoration of democracy and, tions, the teachers are hard sight of a hurled brick will perhaps could let us study, at the least.” so do most of my friends. But in pressed to finish their courses on not be an overstatement. So while Another B.A. second-year stu- this noble quest, let us not be un- time. To add to our woes, we have most students still support the dent in St. Xavier’s College is wor- duly bullied. To me, democracy is yet to start our practicals—the movement against “regression,” ried that she many not finish her as much about voicing your opin- most tedious of tasks at the best there are many who are beginning field work which she says has been ion as it is about respecting oth- of times. Every single student of to have second thoughts about delayed with the ever-increasing ers’ right to dissent. psychology has to go through five the intent of the student leaders, number of bandas and chakka (Baral is a B.A. Third Year stu- long sessions (lasting anywhere who inadvertently—or deliberately, jams. “What am I supposed to do? dent at Tri-Chandra College)

20 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly fers the autonomy of her being her own Her cold store in Kamalpokhari has couraged from leaving home by in-laws employer and will have to do overtime in barely been open for four months. She who fear for her safety. Her music les- order to recuperate her losses. struggles to meet the monthly rent of sons, which she takes in order to pre- Women, who are often at the fore- Rs. 5,000 and Rs. 3,000 on electricity bills pare for her examinations at Allahbad front of small and informal businesses, incurred from the use of two refrigera- University, are suspended. With the in- also have to deal with the potential for tors. She says there is less to fear in a creasing incidents of motorbikes and violence on banda days. “I was sitting Maoist banda because the Maoists would cars being vandalized and set on fire dur- inside when I saw these five boys from at least not dare to openly shut her down. ing bandas, women are rarely seen using the five-party alliance come and peer Besides the loss of livelihood and fear them during these times. inside. They called to see if anyone was of violence, women also lose their mo- Children are also badly hit by bandas. there, but I hid inside. They didn’t see bility. “I can’t do anything,” says Sangita Parents, fearing for their children’s safety, me, so they just pulled my shutter down Sharma, a bright and vivacious 25-year- keep them at home. Those who can afford and went away. I waited for a while, then old, for whom the banda means confine- to send their children to study abroad are opened my shop again,” says Renuka ment at home. Recently married and with doing so in increasing numbers. India, with Thapa, who is from Dhading. a six-month-old infant, Sharma is dis- its proximity and relative affordability, re- mains a popular destination. Binay Pandey, after a lot of soul-search- ing, finally sent his eight-year-old son Alok to a school in Delhi. Although he and his wife both miss their son, they feel it was important to send the child away so that his academics remain untroubled by po- litical violence and instability. “He started to follow me around at night, asking me if I had locked the doors. An eight-year-old child should not have to carry around that much fear,” says his mother. Besides education, people seeking medical care are also inconvenienced. The hardest-hit are older people, who are often cut off from urgent medical care for days. A banda can also prove fatal to women giving birth, as was seen in a recently documented case in Pokhara. And with the Maoists burning an ambu- lance during a recent banda, it is clear that even vehicles clearly marked with signs of emergency and medical care are not immune to violence. Although strikes are common in other nw/SS EMERGENCY MEASURES: Getting to the hospital parts of the world, the “banda”—an event during bandas can be more than a hassle where organizers assume they nw/SS nw/SS have the moral right to threaten dissenters, vandalize property and shut down institutions that disagree with them—seems culturally specific to Nepal and other South Asian countries. Forms of civil protest re- flect the culture of a country. In Nepal, where women and children remain some of the poorest and most marginalized citizens of the world, even the banda organized by political groups claiming to represent citizens fail them in significant COME BANDA NO BUSINESS and sometimes lethal ways.

nation weekly | MAY 30, 2004 21

Photography

FREQUENT FLYERS: Mandal,Rana, Deuba have all been to the Palace twice

By Chandrashekhar Karki 2

B E S T5photos By Sagar Shrestha 1 At the first-ever press photo exhibition organized by the National Forum of Photojournalists last month, viewers selected the five best pictures. Nation Weekly photojournalist Sagar Shrestha’s “Victims of Conflict” taken three years ago in the village of Bichaur By Gopal Chitrakar 5 in Lamjung received the highest number of votes (864). Kantipur’s By Ashok Tuladhar Chandrashekhar Karki (495 votes) and Gopal Chitrakar (368) finished second and third. A total of 102 pictures by 64 photographers were put on display at Nepal Art

Council Gallery. N By Dhruba Ale 3 4 nation weekly | MAY 30, 2004 23 Workforce ALL’S NOT WELL IN MAO-LAND

In Rukum, one administrative chief is only 20-years old ploited by the landlords who were get- ting richer and fatter everyday,” says but rules 35 villages. Sangam says he was elected district Bhim Bahadur Dangi, 45. chief in a ballot. All the candidates, however were believed A farmer, he joined the Maoist rebel- lion at its beginning eight years ago and to have links to the Maoists. This, after all, is the Maoist today he is administrative chief of nine heartland; there is no political opposition villages in the Arma area of Rukum. “We have taken the farms from these land- and mediated disputes among farmers lords and distributed them to the people BY BINAJ GURUBACHARYA and villagers. In the village of Dupai, who actually work on them. We are IN MUSIKOT bright posters depicting Mao and the teaching them how to get maximum pro- n the mountains of Mid West, a full- elusive leader, Prachanda, were pasted duction out of their farms,” he says. blown Maoist uprising is gaining on a wall by the school. Many farmers say they support the I In Rukum, about 250 miles west of revolution simply to give their children ground. The present-day Nepal, over- all, seems to offer laboratory conditions Katmandu, many Maoist-built mountain a better life. They see technology com- for a revolution: widespread ing to neighboring countries, and their nw/SS poverty, an undemocratic gov- government failing to do the same for ernment perceived as remote them. In Rukum, one administrative and corrupt, and a feudal sys- chief is only 20-years old but rules 35 tem run by the handful of rich. villages. Sangam says he was elected dis- This reporter, who trekked trict chief in a ballot. into the rebel heartland and However, all the candidates were spent a week in the villages believed to have links to the Maoists; it and the besieged district capi- is after all the Maoist heartland, there is tal, heard voices both for and no political opposition. “I joined the against the Maoists. Some de- THE GREAT DIVIDE:Government and Maoist negotia- tors shake hands during the peace talks plored the guerrillas’ violent intolerance of criticism, and their at- tempts to impose communist ideology on the farmers. Teachers spoke of rebels entering their classrooms to lecture pu- pils. There were accounts of fighters dragging opponents from their homes and killing them. “If there were free elections today and the Maoists came without their guns, they would lose by a big margin,” says Harka Bahadur Chhetri, 41, a teacher

who was repeatedly stabbed in front of nw/SS his family for criticizing the rebels. RUKUM But people also conceded the rebels have done much for the villages under trails and concrete bridges across streams their control. They said they have banned were evident. So were dug canals and polygamy, child marriage, alcohol and pipes brought in by the Maoists to chan- witchcraft. They have seized farms and nel water to many villages. “The poor MERCYCORPS redistributed the land among the poor farmers were getting poorer and ex-

24 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly Maoist movement because I wanted to a big security problem,” acknowledges Farmers and businessmen pay accord- free our people,” Sangam says. He be- Chet Prasad Upreti, Musikot’s chief dis- ing to their assets. came a fighter at 15 and took part in sev- trict administrator. The town is besieged. The rebels say defendants facing their eral raids, one of them two years ago in The only way around rebel roadblocks courts have the right to attorneys, who have which 32 police officers were killed and is by air. Food stocks no legal education and 31 captured and freed after a month. are diminishing. are usually picked by Sangam was shot in the hands. “We have grains to Teachers like the rebels. A seven- In another village, Pipal, a Maoist last a few more days and member jury of villag- official Ganesh Man Pun outlined am- after that we are all go- Ghimire give away ers must reach a unani- bitious goals of building roads, bridges, ing to starve,” said Dil mous verdict. Defen- hydroelectric plants and schools. “Our Ghimire, who runs a five percent of their dants are tried in an aim is to have an autonomous people’s small hostel in Musikot. monthly income to open-air courtyard, fac- government where people seize the The government tried ing a judge at a desk and power for themselves,” says Pun. airlifting grain, but the the Maoists. jurors seated on a mat. Rukum, a district of beautiful mountains Maoists burned down “There will be a and valleys, is the Maoists’ de facto capi- the storage shed. Among day when all of Nepal tal. They patrol with guns and grenades the refugees living in Musikot is Nayan will follow this system,” says Rupesh as farmers mostly tend their vegetable Singh Damai, 65. He says he was attacked Mainali, chief of the rebels’ law and jus- crops. The region’s capital is Musikot, en route to a political rally in 1998 and in- tice department. A woman who killed whose 6,000 people live behind a fence jured so badly that he lost a leg. Doctors in another woman brought home by her and, after nightfall, under curfew. Katmandu gave him an artificial leg, but husband is given a seven-year sentence; The 500 soldiers and 300 policemen the Maoists would kill him if he tried to a rapist is serving three years. Their rarely venture beyond the fence. “We make the four-hour walk to his village, so prison is a house seized by the rebels have full security inside the district head- his wife visits him twice a year, he says. from a landlord who had to flee to the quarters, but outside thefence we have “My only offense was I had different district capital. Their punishment in- political beliefs” says Chhetri. The cludes working in farm fields or carry- rebels have their own courts, judges, tax ing supplies. system and schools. Teachers like (Gurubacharya, an Associated Press reporter, Ghimire give away five percent of their visited Rukum last month.) monthly income to the Maoists.

nation weekly | MAY 30, 2004 25 Refugees

UNHCR has made it clear through a series of state- ments from its headquarters in Geneva, and in Katmandu that come what may, any likely extension of its De- cember 2005 deadline for the pullout from the camps may be stretched by six months at most. But refugee lead- ers are apprehensive about the proposed pullout WITHDRAWAL SYMPTOMS

BY JOHN NARAYAN PARAJULI Does it then imply the end of the according to officials: just as UNHCR IN DAMAK refugee movement for repatriation? No, phases out from the care and assistance says S. B. Subba, a refugee leader, “We part of the refugee operation, other bi- s the hope of a negotiated settle- will still re-group and we will still be lateral donors like GTZ, JICA, USAID Ament with Bhutan and repatria- agitating for a dignified repatriation.” and DANIDA will step in, including tion of refugees fades, the UN Refugee leaders say the UNHCR with- other UN agencies. refugee agency, UNHCR, has unveiled drawal will seriously hurt the refugees. “We are not going to leave a vacuum a phase-out plan that some insiders say The agency officials, however, insist behind,” says a UNHCR official. “Even was long overdue. their plan is foolproof and will provide if we fail to engage donors directly, we’re UNHCR will phase down its role in a durable solution to the refugee stale- hopeful that the host government would the Bhutanese refugee camps to protec- mate that dates back to the early 1990s. do the ‘burden-sharing.’ We are also ne- tion level alone, which UN officials insist Though UNHCR still hopes that bona gotiating with the government in this is UNHCR’s true mandate in protracted fide refugees will get repatriated by the regard. Yes, it’s true that we assist and refugee crises. The agency will then only 2005 deadline, there are clear hints that render protection to refugees, but only be responsible for extremely vulnerable it considers local integration a viable in cases where the governments are un- cases (like cases of sexual and gender-based option. This means that the ethnic able to.” violence) where the refugees cannot re- Nepalis in the camps will probably be But refugee leaders fear that it may turn home. UNHCR has already made it assimilated into the larger society out- not turn out to be as simple as officials clear through a series of statements from side the camp. Should that happen, Nepal make it sound. They express deep con- its headquarters in Geneva, and in will likely witness a very visible addi- cerns over the feasibility of the proposed Katmandu that come what may, any likely tion to its population—in one region, at transition. Their apprehension: other extension of its December 2005 deadline one time. agencies just don’t have the all-round for the pullout from the camps may be The logic behind the seemingly am- expertise of UNHCR in handling refu- stretched by six months at most. bitious pullout plan is simple enough, gees. “It doesn’t seem quite feasible given

26 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly BR

the different field of expertise they tance. “...I don’t believe USAID or any (UNHCR) possess,” says Subba, chair- other bilateral donors will be involved man of the Bhutanese Refugee Repre- in the transition of assistance from sentatives Repatriation Committee UNHCR—they plan to continue assis- (BRRRC). tance programs through UN agencies.” UNHCR must stay, he insists. “Bi- The diplomats also expressed uncer- lateral donors cannot be a substitute to tainty over the time-frame of the transi- UNHCR nor can the UN agency tion process.“ I don’t know when unprecedentedly delegate its mandate.” UNHCR actually intends to begin the Apart from legal protection, the refugees phase out, although I assume we will be in the camps receive a wide range of as- briefed once they have a concrete plan.” sistance from the UN agency like daily The news of phase-out and transition ration, clothes, and materials to build has already created a sense of panic homes, medical aid and education. As a among refugees here. Sources say the part of phase-down, these facilities will newly elected Camp Secretaries and be scrapped. Members have threatened to resign en Last year, refugees had to face serious masse as a symbolic protest. problems of readjustments when It’s been an interesting policy shift UNHCR shut down child play centers for the UN refugee agency. From “We and kindergartens, deleted turmeric wouldn’t pull out of the camps till a du- powder from the ration list and reduced rable solution is found” six months ago funding for higher secondary education. to a drastically changed—”We might” and UNHCR says it spends $120 per refu- now “We will.” It all started last fall. gee annually in the camps. When laying out his plan for Much like the refugee leaders, some Bhutanese refugees before an executive foreign diplomats in Kathmandu whose committee meeting in Geneva on 29 Sep- interest and consent the agency is count- tember 2003, UN High Commissioner ing on, do not appear quite enthusiastic for Refugees, Rudd Lubbers had said that about the UN pullout. A senior U.S. his office would promote self-reliance diplomat earlier this month expressed projects to facilitate local integration and disbelief (in an email message to this gradual phasing-out of UNHCR’s direct reporter) over directly involving bilat- involvement. eral donors in the transition of the assis- “I have decided to take three key measures,” Lubbers said, “first, since the BR Nepalese government has offered to settle those [refugees] willing to remain, and grant them citizenship, my office will promote self-reliance projects to facilitate their [local] integration. Sec- ond, my office will support resettlement initiatives for vulnerable cases. Third we will not promote returns.” The funds saved from the phase-out here is likely to be directed to Iraq, Af- ghanistan and the Horn of Africa, all troubled spots. In a statement issued in March, the UNHCR said it was “downsizing its assistance” for Bhutanese refugees as it has “other areas to focus on.” Although observers here agree that the self-reliance projects might be the best option for a dignified life, in light of the refugee stalemate, they however say that a graceful homeward journey might become more difficult once the camps have been dismantled. With TIKU GAUCHAN in Kathmandu nation weekly | MAY 30, 2004 27 Broadside

be left to commodity traders. Most dis- turbing is the potential for genetic pol- lution—transgenics finding their way into conventional seed through pollen RAPE SEED or accidental seed mixing. An Agricul- ture Canada study in June 2003 con- firmed what canola farmers had been As the west rejects genetically modified crops, they are saying for years: “that GM canola was popping up where it isn’t planted and being dumped in the South. This is one such story. Of isn’t wanted.” A secret briefing to the how canola, the Canadian oilseed, is invading our own Canadian government in November 2003 (obtained under the Right to In- Khokana, once famous for its mustard presses formation Act) said that cross-contami- nation was now “irreversible.” BY SAMUEL THOMAS fication of food. And that after that de- The NFU policy also talks about bate, citizens—not the corporations that the potential risks to human and eco- hokana is the ancient town on the promote these products—must decide logical health. There has not been a outskirts of Kathmandu Valley whether to accept or reject GM food. systematic, scientific investigation of K Clearly, in Nepal, where small farm- the health effects of GM foods. There known for its traditional mustard presses. The unrefined, smoky-thick ers and their dependants form the bulk are also many unanswered questions mustard oil is used for just about all pur- of the population, such matters cannot about the environmental risks of GM poses—cooking, lighting lamps at crops and livestock. Genetic modifi- homes, temples and religious events, cation threatens to unbalance the bio- massaging newborns and their mothers. sphere, create ‘super-weeds,’ endanger Only for some four years now, oilseed beneficial insects, and erode (canola, rapeseed or mustard) has been biodiversity. coming from Canada. The same goes for Millers in Khokana say local mus- presses elsewhere in the Valley. tard production is not enough. But what Canada is the third-largest producer about customer preference for tradi- of genetically modified (GM) crops af- tionally pressed oil? “We mix the two, ter the United States and Argentina. Ge- because rapeseed that comes from else- netically modified refers to any organ- where does not have the flavor of ism in which the genetic material has Nepali mustard, although the seeds are been altered in a way that does not occur larger and contain more oil,” says a naturally. By 2002, it was estimated that miller in Khokana. It is also cheaper over two-thirds of Canadian canola was than locally produced mustard. “All the genetically modified or transgenic. A big companies are also using imported record high in exports was reached in oilseed,” he adds. 2001-2002 after GM was introduced What this can do to farmers and widely. The bulk of it was being dumped consumers is clear from the Indian ex- on the unsuspecting (and technologically perience. From being a net exporter of unable to detect GM or lacking provi- oilseeds in 1994-95 (production: 22 sions to block) South, because Europe million tons), India was importing over had shut the doors to GM produce by five million tons of edible oils by 2002 1997 and other countries discriminated (roughly 50 per cent of domestic re- against GM produce. GM crops form a quirement), costing the exchequer significant part of the international trade over IRs.12,000crore. It put farmers out in corn, soybeans and canola. Canada’s of business and destroyed the country’s canola exports have grown after the in- self-sufficiency in oilseed production. troduction of GM varieties and today This is something Nepali farmers and account for more than 40 percent of consumers can ill afford. Here, prices world exports. of cooking oil (soy and mustard) have Back in Canada, the country of origin, doubled in the last two years, a price there has been an informed public debate rise unmatched in any other food item. on GM. The National Farmers Union The reasons are obvious—the govern- (NFU) believes all Canadians—farmers ment is keen on supporting foreign INSIDIOUS ALCHEMY: Canola saplings in and non-farmers alike—must engage in petri-dishes bloom in lush Canadian fields producers and traders, not local farm- an informed debate on the genetic modi- before the harvests head to the markets ers and the consumer.

28 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly The case against GM produce here is so obvious that it does not need to be argued. One, chances are that transgenic varieties of canola have contaminated our crops. Two, chances are that a substan- tial portion of the oil here is now from GM seed. Three, chances are that a lot of our farmers have stopped growing for the local markets because of the crip- pling effects of western farm subsidies that allow for dumping in faraway Nepal, essentially affecting the market for non-GM organic produce, destroying local production capacities and self suf- ficiency. Given Nepal’s fragile ecosystems and farming systems, citizens need to decide whether they want GM food or not. The idea is not to toss evidence at Nepal, but to allow Nepal to build its own evidence and have a public debate before decid- ing. Given the health and environmental risks it is only fitting that relevant Cana- dian authorities—dealing with farming and export—explain the presence by stealth of GM produce in Nepal. If in- deed transgenic canola has contaminated the environment, they must pay for the clean up costs. If the government of Canada is answerable to its people, it must answer also to the people of Nepal. Last month, China, one of the big- gest markets for Canadian SPINNING OUT OF CONTROL: How long can canola, shut its doors. The oil-processing families in Khokana hold on head of the Chinese agency that to their traditional lifestyles? oversees the genetically modi- fied crop, Shi Yanquan, de- clared that genetically modi- fied products would not enter China without a safety certifi- cate. New EU rules on labeling and tracing of genetically modified foods came into ef- fect on 18 April 2004. The rules, described by the EU as the toughest GM food regu- lations in the world, require food and animal feed to be la- beled if they contain at least 0.9 percent of GM ingredi- ents, essentially giving con- sumers the choice. A survey of EU customers showed that 70 percent do not want GM food. Do we? (Thomas works at IUCN.The views expressed are his.) nation weekly | MAY 30, 2004 29 Arts & Society

experiences are varied, you have to get Worldly-wise creative with your class sizing and group- ing. The students are grouped into three classes: junior, intermediate and senior. Compassion Junior classes have students who would normally be attending grades 1 to 3, in- termediate: 4 to 5, and senior: 6 to 8. A nun-school prepares its students for the real world Four full-time teachers take turns teaching the nuns in classes with fluid BY TIKU GAUCHAN the school by her foster mother after she boundaries separating the age groups. Fifteen-year-old Choying Sangmo says herself decided to become a nun. Within the span of the 45-minutes allot- she wants to be a doctor. That sort of a Arya Tara currently has 27 students liv- ted for the subject being taught, the teach- statement might not stand out for its ing there as boarders. The school will in a ers have to shift their methods to pitch originality given that most kids in few months shift to its permanent loca- their lectures sometimes to the younger Kathmandu seem to routinely blurt out tion in Pharping, where the building’s con- section and sometimes to the older group. that they want to be either engineers or struction is almost complete. And on the From time to time foreigners who doctors. But unlike urban children who cards: the possibility of the enrollment want to volunteer their services help ease can, and do become doctors with proper shooting up to 150 full-time students. the workload. Just recently, two Ger- guidance, Sangmo’s case is a little differ- How can a non-profit run school raise mans, Sabine Thoma and Kay Ehrbar, ent. Had Sangmo not been brought to the money to finance such a venture? The taught the children for three months be- Kathmandu by her aunt from her native answer lies in founder Ani Choying’s fore heading back home. The volunteer Mustang and enrolled at the Arya Tara voice, or more specifically her singing. teachers teach supplementary classes School in Samakhusi, her dreams of be- Choying chants hymns and sings at ben- like art, geography, health care and even coming a doctor would most likely have efit concerts the world over. She’s per- knitting and self defense. remained a pipe dream. formed at the Smithsonian Folk Festival Some of them help with the adminis- Arya Tara takes in girls from poor in Washington D.C., at the sixth world tration too. Mera Thompson, a Canadian, families, ordains them as nuns and pro- music festival in Barcelona, and in places has taken on the role of an all-in-one co- vides them with both a Buddhist and a like the UN headquarters in New York. ordinator. She takes care of the school’s secular education: the girls, besides en- Her album, “Cho,” that she made with accounts, subs in for sick teachers, and gaging with Buddhist texts, also get guitarist Steve Tibbets in 1997, received helps with the fundraising. Thompson, schooled in the SLC curriculum. The rave reviews in magazines like Guitar who used to be a reporter for the South school was founded by Ani Choying, a Player, and the Philadelphia Enquirer China Morning Post and Agence France renowned nun-singer who believes that Presse, got involved with the

nuns need to get a practical edu- nw/SS school after meeting Ani cation if they are to live well- Choying during one of rounded lives. Buddhism teaches Choying’s concerts in compassionate action, but with- Kathmandu. out an education in some sort of Ani Choying is defi- a vocation, it’s hard to translate nitely the center that keeps the compassion into action. When school going, and the main rea- the girls enroll, they are made to son for volunteers like Thomp- take a vow that after finishing their son and even full-fledged nuns formal education, at what- like Tserab Sangmo showing up ever level, they’ll head back in her school. Tserab Sangmo, a to their villages and use the 23-year-old political science skills learned to help their graduate from Singamari, fellow human beings. Darjeeling, takes lessons in Ti- Many of the girls at Arya betan and Dharma translation at Tara have experienced first- daily. The proceeds from Ani the Arya Tara. Teserab Sangmo is actually Choying Sangmo hand the trials of living in a Choying’s concert ticket sales and viewed by many to be the seventh incarna- poverty-stricken environment and the CD sales account for more than 80 per- tion of a Tibetan Lama, Khandoma. Just attendant problems that come with such cent of the school’s budget; the rest comes like many of the younger nuns at Arya Tara, a life. Seven-year-old Drolma Tsering from donors. she too plans to head back to her commu- from Sikkim, the youngest nun at the While the mission to give nuns a secu- nity to help her people after she’s done school, lived with an alcoholic father lar education is a noble aim, carrying out with school. Such an army of nuns, from until her uncle decided to bring her to such a task isn’t all that easy. When you the initiates to a Lama incarnate looking to Kathmandu. Chimey Lhamo, who was have 27 students whose ages range from give back to their communities, should abandoned at birth, was later brought to seven to 23, and whose formal learning keep the good karma going a long way.

30 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly THE WORLD’S BEST CLOTHS

Putalisadak, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel. 4412017, Fax. 977-1-5539787 Arts & Society

which are perpetuated through an oral Tell Me A Story culture. For ages, Maithili women’s folktales have been the repositories of Maithili cul- Maithili storytelling culture is still vibrant, primarily ture, mores and lessons to live by. Today, because women storytellers have kept up the tradition Maithili storytelling is still vibrant, pri- marily because women storytellers have kept up the tradition. For the last six phors of myths are kept alive by con- months, Coralynn Ann Davis, Assistant BY SATISH JUNG SHAHI stant recreation through the arts, the life Professor of Women’s Studies and Anthro- oseph Campbell, celebrated my just slips away from them.” This is es- pology at Bucknell University, Pennsyl- thologist and storyteller, once said pecially true of myths and folktales like vania, has been traveling around Janakpur, J the ones told by Maithili women, documenting their tales. Davis’s work, that, “unless the symbols and meta- which includes listening to, transcribing and analyzing over 140 stories told to her The Jackal and the Eagle (A Maithili Tale) by a selected group of 10 women, is funded by a Fulbright Senior Research Grant. Jackal and eagle, two friends Silawati’s children. Since both The Maithili society is ma- “I had done my doctoral research on lived near a riverbank. There the women now didn’t have triarchal, and the stories told women development here, a decade ago,” was a pakhar tree near the any children, they found them- by Maithili women highlight the says Davis, “and I had to find a way to bank, and the eagle lived in selves undertaking fasts dur- primacy of women, the issues come back to Nepal as I am so much in its nest on the treetop while ing the next Jitiya festival. Lord of self and society as under- love with it.” the jackal lived near the tree’s Shiva, who had seen the mur- stood by them and their rich That love for Nepal may be a bless- base. Every year in Bhadau, ders, brought back to life earthy knowledge of life. As ing. Davis, whose earlier works include, during the Jitiya festival, all the Silawati’s children at the end exemplified by the story above: “Listen, Rama’s Wife!” “Society and the women from the neighboring of her fast. This enraged 1. In most stories told by Sacred in the Saamaa-Chakeba Festival village who wanted a son, Lilawati even more, and she Maithili women, the protago- of Nepal’s Eastern Tarai,” and “Feminist would go on a fast and bring called a panchyat, where she nists are women Tigers and Patriarchal Lions,” will pub- ritual offerings of dried peas accused Silawati of being a 2. The animals of Tarai, who lish a book on Maithili stories based on and mustard peena, which witch. She said that Silawati share living space with people,

her work. Given the pervasiveness of TV, AMTZIS WAYNE they placed on the riverbank. had used withcraft to both kill play a prominent part in Maithili movies and Bollywood music in the sub- One year, the jackal and eagle, her children and to bring her stories. continent, oral mythologies are hard who had been watching the own children back to life. As 3. The stories have a strong pressed to keep up. And such work by women performing the pujas proof, Lilawati said that she moral theme: don’t be greedy, people like Davis, at least help preserve every year, decided to ape the had killed Silawati’s children. don’t lie, respect your gods. the stories for future generations. womenfolk and participate in Silawati, however, won the 4. The importance of festivals The Maithili women too have done a Jitiya ritual of their own. So case because the panchyat and women’s participation in their part to ensure that their storytelling the animals fasted and then decided that her children got them is highlighted: the will not become just a cultural vestige. tired, went to sleep. While the back their lives not through panchayat says that Silawati They have transformed their stories to eagle kept his fast, the jackal witchery but because of her got back her children because reflect issues of power, gender and the got hungry and in desperation, devotion during the Jitiya fes- of her devotion during the Jitiya influences of the modern world. Accord- bit off chunks from the corpse tival. Furthermore, Lilawati’s festival. ing to Davis, that’s a good sign. Even of a tehliya (oil seller) who was admission of killing Silwati’s 5. Accusations of witchcraft, though it’s hard to tell how these story- being cremated near the children backfired against her so prevalent in our villages, are tellers will fare in the future, Davis riverbank. Years later, after and was used as evidence to shown for what they are: says,“For now, Maithili story telling both the animals died they punish her. cooked-up charges. practice is alive and well.” were reborn as women. The jackal became Lilawati, who got married to a rich but un- educated man, while the eagle became Silawati, who got married to a poor but edu- cated man. Silawati and Lilawati both had many chil- dren but all of Lilawati’s chil- dren somehow died. Jealous of Silawati’s good fortune, Lilwati hired a butcher to kill

32 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly

A Little Word Of Witchcraft And Witches

It is a thin line to cross from believing that the stars rule our lives to being convinced that someone is the cause of our misfortunes. Our life is ruled by irrationality and we follow most of it without thinking twice

BY DEEPAK THAPA believing that the stars rule our lives to being convinced that someone is very now and then, newspapers carry reports about women and, the cause of our misfortunes. Our entire life is ruled by irrationality and we Esometimes, men being persecuted on charges of witchcraft. follow most of it without thinking twice. We conduct rituals while buying Generally, these victims tend to be living on their own, and so land or laying the foundation to a house, moving shop or going on a when the community rises up against them in a frenzy, there is no one to journey. There are injunctions of what we are to do or not to do: no speak out for them. We in Kathmandu come to know of these incidents whistling indoors, no sweeping after the sun goes down, no setting out on if the local stringer gets wind of it and files a story. Human rights organiza- a journey on Saturday, and so on and on. Then there is the ‘auspicious’ tions quickly come forward to document the case, but often nothing time for everything: from naming a child to getting married to taking up comes out of it and soon everyone goes back to their lives as if nothing office. People also develop individual idiosyncrasies. Wearing a particu- had happened. lar kind of ring, or often rings, fasting on fixed times of the week, a The immediate reaction in the press is usually of righteous indigna- penchant for doing things on particular days, all in the hope that it will tion that such things should take place in this day and age, and this is ward off bad luck. These are examples of, to borrow Pakistani thinker vented occasionally by various writers in their columns. These writings Eqbal Ahmad’s words, a mediaeval mindset at work. often blame the ignorance of One can well argue that the villagers in believing that these are questions of personal someone’s ‘evil eye’ could be belief and undue comment is the source of their misfortune unwarranted. It certainly is, but it which could be anything from is this kind of behavior that is at chronic illness and death of a the root of all superstition and person to something as mun- can certainly not contribute posi- dane as the drying up of a cow’s tively to the health of a society. udders. So long as we allow ourselves to Here, one would like to ask be guided by the supernatural, how are these ‘ignorant’ per- we will constantly be looking over petrators any different from the our shoulders even as we try to more ‘enlightened’ members of create a modern society driven our society. Let’s take one shin- by rational thought. For instance, ing example. When Sher the same newspapers which Bahadur Deuba became prime preach against superstitious be- minister in July 2001, the coun- lief continue to propagate super- try had lost its head of state in a stition through its pages every gruesome massacre, the day, i.e., through the horoscope Maoist onslaught had renewed, columns. Practically every news- and Girija Prasad Koirala had paper or magazine has an as- resigned as prime minister. trologer predicting what is in store Deuba had won the contest to for the readers that day, that lead his party’s government. But week or that month, as the case what did he do? He left the country rudderless for five whole days while, may be. Since there is specialist literature available for those who cannot do as was reported then, his astrologers tried to figure out the most ‘auspi- without knowing what they think the future holds for them, it fails reason why cious’ time for him to take the oath of office. Whoever his astrologers are, the general media should also be involved in soothsaying. they must have felt rather sheepish when 14 months later, Deuba was Having said all this, something interesting happened during the re- ignominiously booted out with the tag of ‘incompetence’ to haunt him cent Indian elections that was reported in passing by the Indian press. forever. It is a different matter that his incompetence was in reference to Apparently, having arrived earlier, Sonia Gandhi had hung around the his inability to hold elections in the promised time. polling station waiting for a less ‘inauspicious’ time to cast her vote. Days With such trendsetters, why should it shock us that some unfortu- later she was vaulted to the prime minister’s chair. Now, that sure is one nates consider a neighbor to be a witch? It is a thin line to cross from big boost for obscurantism.

34 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly For insertions: 2111102 or [email protected] City Page ART CITY:ThisWeek EXHIBITIONS V T “Faces and Aspects of Nepal”: E EN S Mani Lama’s Photo Exhibition. “Howlin’ Young Asman Welcomes the Fantastic Fridays Saturday Café, Boudha. Till June Summer of 61. May 29 A musical night with lip-smacking For information: 2073157 Wolves” At 1905, Kantipath. Time: 6 p.m. food. Jazz and club music by vari- Tickets: Rs. 750 (includes dinner ous bands. Time: Fridays 7-11 p.m. “Transformations:” An exhibition of “Rock ‘n Bark” is a CD produced and welcome drink). For informa- Venue: The Club, Bhatbhateni paintings by Sushma Joshi. by Animalnepal.org with music by tion: 4471342. In aid of ASMAN's Entrance Free. Gallery 9. May 25-31. For Infor- some of Nepal’s top singers. charity mation: 4428694 Animalnepal.org aims to reach the Madonna Mania youth through music from the CD From Like a Virgin to Vogue to True “Infinity’s Journey”: Mixed-media, as well as a series of concerts and Blue. It's Time For Some Maniacal collage and water-color paintings events. The CD was launched on Dancing! Venue: Club Platinum, by Gaurav Shrestha, Binod Gupta, October 4, World Animal Day, at Hotel Yak & Yeti. Date: May 29 Ramesh K.C. and Suman Shrestha. the Moksh in Jhamsikhel. Perform- Time: 1 p.m. Entrance: Rs. 200 Park Gallery, Lazimpat. May 28- ing at the launch were Anil Singh, (Boys) Rs. 100 (Girls) June 7. For information: 4419353 Bijay Lama and members of the popular rock band 1974 AD. The Educational Fairs program was hosted by Jiggy Gaton 8th Nepal Education & Book Fair and Maria Rai. The song “Aau Mili 2004. Education and career sec- Gau” is a joint effort by15 artists. tion: Till May 25. Book section: till Those of you interested in helping in May 29. 11 p.m. to 7 p.m. at anyway can call 9841-231284 or Bhrikuti Mandap Exhibition Hall. e-mail: [email protected] For information: 4260232 BY DINESH RAI Fair and Lovely Educational & Ca- reer Fair: May 27-29, Close-up Inter College Musical Contest: May “Finland in Nepal 1985-2004”: Shangri-la Summer Special 27-30 at the Birendra Interna- Photographs from Finland. Gallery Shambala Garden Lunch with tional Convetion Center. For infor- Moksh. Till June 5. For informa- swimming and soft drink. Rs. 500 mation: 4258977, 4262267 tion: 2113339

Movies at Lazimpat gallery café American Center, Gyaneshwore FREE Time: 7 p.m. Admission Free Time: 5:30 p.m. The Usual Suspects, May 25 The Candidate, May 27 MOVIES Ocean Eleven, May 27 Admission Free

Discussions Social Science Baha A lecture by David Gellner on “Re- building Buddhism: Transnational Theravada Revivalism in Nepal.” . May 27, 5:30 p.m. at Baggikhana, Yala Maya Kendra, Patan Dhoka. For information: 5542544

Martin Chautari Effects of the Indian Elections on Nepal. Tapan Bose and Yuvraj Ghimire. May 23, 3 p.m. nation weekly | MAY 30, 2004 35 Legal Eye Objection Overruled

Appointments of Anup Raj Sharma and Balram K.C., none of them Appellate Court judges, to the Supreme Court Bench have come under fire from the establishment. But Sharma and K.C. both have solid track records and the judiciary has to free itself from conventional trappings if it is to establish meritocracy in its ranks

BY JOGENDRA GHIMIRE Sharma and K.C. are only two of the 10 individuals who have been appointed as permanent or ad hoc justices of the apex court during the t’s not just the country’s executive, or absence of one, that is in the last two lots of appointments. Every other individual who has been ap- Inews. Recently, there has been some controversy over the appoint- pointed as an ad hoc judge or confirmed as a permanent judge was from ment of two senior practicing advocates—Anup Raj Sharma and among the Appellate judges. Considering that a far fewer number of Balaram K.C.—as the judges of the Supreme Court. The appointment of lawyers who get appointed to the apex court compared to sitting judges practicing lawyers to the highest Bench is a rather rare happening in our of the Appellate Courts, the obvious question before us is: what was so judiciary, which is used to promoting career civil servants and career different about these appointments that outraged the Appellate judges judges right up to the highest echelons. In the past, such appointments so much? have been fairly low-key affairs since the con- This reaction can be best understood stituency that was directly affected by such keeping in view most of the post-1990 ap- appointments—the Appellate Court judges, pointments, which seem to have created an the senior members of the Bar and eligible impression that the apex court positions were academics—generally kept silent over such the preserves of the career judicial officers appointments. and lower court judges. This seems to have The two recent additions to the Bench, given credence to the conventional theory however, have disturbed the ranks, especially that those from outside the Appellate Courts the Appellate Court justices, so much that they essentially come in to bite off chunks from have gone so far as to petition the King against the pie—to borrow an expression used re- the appointments. The outrage is palpable. cently by a retired Supreme Court justice, Their criticism revolves around a few points. Krishna Jung Rayamajhi. The duo were junior compared to a number The tendency to take the easy route by of sitting Appellate judges; and, that appoint- appointing the seniormost of the Appellate ment of Sharma directly as a permanent judge judges to the apex court has been doubly without having served as an ad hoc judge, retarding. It makes the Apellate judges pro- the route most judges in the apex court nor- fessionally complacent; it also frustrates far mally take, is a deviation from a time-hon- more capable lawyers and judges in the lower ored tradition. courts who don’t have a shot at the Supreme These arguments are limp. The judiciary Court Bench despite their competence. has to free itself from bureaucratic trappings, The fundamental problem lies with the if it is to establish meritocracy in its ranks. twin issues of seniority and service with the Both Sharma and K.C. have great track government—both against the letter and spirit records—Sharma as a successful commer- of the Constitution. We have been obsessed cial lawyer and K.C. as a government pros- with the idea of appointing the seniormost of ecutor and, since his retirement from the government, as a litigator and the Appellate judges to the Supreme Court without actually looking into arbitrator of repute. They are undoubtedly among the brightest members the competence of the individual under question. of the Bar and have a sound understanding of Nepal’s judicial system. The Constitution, in fact, looks for neither the seniormost indi- Indeed, they are junior to some of the judges in the Appellate Court. vidual, nor for an Appellate judge. What it looks for are competent But those who say they have greater claims, and not Messrs K.C. and jurists who have either been an Appellate judge for at least 10 years Sharma, to the Supreme Court based on their seniority are ignoring or have been practicing lawyers or law researchers for at least 15. perhaps the most important underlying philosophy. That of the Constitu- Beyond this, it is purely individual competence that ought to be the tion, which provides no guarantee to appointments to the apex court deciding factor—not seniority or X number of years one has put in based on seniority. It is not a process of natural progression. government service.

36 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly Jobs

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nation weekly | MAY 30, 2004 39 Khula Manch Ferryman, Get Me Across The Seas he frequency of bandas has disrupted academic Tlife, forcing increasing numbers of students to seek educational opportunities abroad. The United States remains one of the most sought-after

destinations—the growth rates of Nepali student nw/SS

applicants for the United States is among the humanities and social sciences, not been done at a national level to imple- the highest in the world. Michael Gill, just at the undergraduate level, but even ment these ideas? the executive director of the Fulbright at high school and primary school lev- I am not involved in, or privy to, or up- Commission for Educational Exchange els. I happen to believe that a liberal edu- dated on government thinking on this between the United States and Nepal, cation such as the ones colleges in the area. My job is to provide information talked with Sushma Joshi of Nation United States provide is a real develop- to students who seek to get an education Weekly about this outward move. Gill’s ment. in the United States. association with Nepal goes back to the mid 1960s, when he was a Peace Corps Do you see any moves towards devel- What does your work entail? Volunteer. oping this system of liberal education Part of our job is to figure out if study in in Nepal? the United States is appropriate for a stu- Is Nepal among the countries with the A number of people have been pushing dent or not. Many times, it’s not. Educa- highest numbers of students applying this idea in Nepal. The proliferation of tion in the United States is very expen- for visas to study in the United States? MBA programs is also a start, although sive—an average of $20,000 a year. Sev- Not in terms of absolute numbers, but it starts at the top, instead of at the bot- enty percent of our students who go are the rate of growth of student applicants tom—the critical thinking and indi- self-funded. Of the other 30 percent, only is amongst the highest in the world. The vidual research skills of a liberal educa- a small fraction get total financial aid. growth rates of other countries that have tion need to be introduced in college, traditionally sent high numbers have lev- You administer the Fulbright program, eled off. one of the most sought-after fellowships The lamentable to the United States. Do you find that Do you see any patterns in the Nepali people use it as an entryway to migrate educational system? thing about the to the United States? Most Nepali students are pushed into Nepali educational We have a 100 percent rate of return of the sciences by employment options, our fellows. Our job is not to fund for- and through family pressure. We get system is its eign students to find employment in the many applicants for the Fulbright who devaluation of the United States. Most of the students we have done many years in science. We have select go in areas for which there is not a a student trained as an engineer who humanities and big employment market in the United worked for many years for an NGO social sciences. States, everything from art to creative building water systems. The system kept writing. We do not fund medicine, engi- on failing, and not because of technical neering and IT students. reasons. So finally, he started to study and if possible, even further back in pri- rural sociology in order to understand mary school. Knowledge is not some- Will institutions in Nepal increasingly what’s going on at a social level. That’s a thing that can be created like a mother offering more liberal arts-oriented aca- fairly typical pattern—coming out of the bird vomiting regurgitated food into the demics discourage the trend to study sciences and going into other fields of baby’s mouth. It can’t be learnt through aboard? study. rote. Private education will continue to grow in Nepal—I don’t see anything wrong What’s missing here that students can Individual efforts and the contribution with private education per se. But if Nepal get in the United States? of private institutions are of course im- is serious about universal education, they The lamentable thing about the Nepali portant, since they are the seed of have to strengthen the state of education educational system is its devaluation of larger developments. But has anything in Nepal at the public level.

40 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly Books Pokhara Through The Years Tibetan Healing REVIEWED BY KARL-HEINZ KRAEMER Made Simple DR. LOPSANG RAPGAY okhara: Biography of a Town,” But Pokhara also became the com- written by David Seddon and mercial and administrative center for the ere is a thoughtful, PJagannath Adhikari, is the fasci- western hill region. This process was dra- Hclearly-written in- nating history of the beautiful town in matic and far-reaching in the second half troduction to the Tibetan the heart of Nepal that within the last 50 of the 20th century. Unlike most other tradition of healing, a tra- years grew from a small settlement of a studies, the authors of this book view this dition which has points little more than 3,000 inhabitants to process of urbanization of Pokhara and in common with Nepal’s second largest urban conglom- its hinterland by adopting an urban rather Ayurveda from India and eration. Both authors’ special relation- than a rural focus. This gives the study with Chinese medicine. ship to Pokhara finds expression special value given that Nepal—a The book discusses in the way the history and social mainly rural society with an ur- health and wellness; the setting of this town is analyzed. ban population of less than four fundamental principles Adhikari was born and raised in percent in 1971—has now become of Tibetan medicine; the the country with the high- Tibetan constitutional typology test; di- est rate of urban growth in agnosis, nutrition; behavior; the Tibetan all of South Asia. Pancha Karma; herbal therapeutics; Tourism definitely spiritual practice; rejuvenation therapy; plays a major role in the self-healing through the Medicine Bud- town’s future develop- dha Practice; and the Tibetan horoscope. ment plans, though it cur- rently contributes to only about 10 percent of Pokhara’s total income. Empty Moon: Belly Full

tc.uws.edu The town is blessed with JOHN BRANDI natural attractions like Phewa Taal and a magnifi- sing the medium of haiku, cent view of the Himalaya. UJohn Brandi, poet, essayist and pas- Pokhara, while Seddon began his re- But in the face of rapid urbanization, sionate traveler, shares his experiences, nowned social research on Nepal in town planners and administrators have insights and observations from his years Pokhara and its surroundings almost 30 had problems balancing necessary infra- on the road as a traveler in India and years ago. structure development with environ- Nepal. The natural setting of the Pokhara Val- mental protection measures. Brandi’s haiku capture bits and pieces ley makes it hard to believe that this in- The story of immigration is another of life in the subcontinent, much like viting region had been more or less unin- interesting aspect of urbanizing Pokhara. well-framed photographs do. And just habited by the indigenous Magars and Most of the permanent immigrants have like good photographs, his haiku bring Gurungs before the 12th century. But the come from rural Kaski as well as from to light small things that often go unno- ticed. An excerpt: development of Pokhara as a market cen- the neighboring districts.N This has meant ter began only after the unification of growing numbers of local indigenous climbing Ganesha’s Nepal when Newars from Kathmandu ethnic groups (especially Gurungs) who belly, an expedition Valley settled there to escape persecution nowadays constitute the largest popula- of ants from the conquering Shah forces. tion group in a town once dominated by Empty Moon: Belly Full, is filled From about the 1920s onwards, ex- Bahuns, Chhetris, and other Hindu with many such quirky montages that panding trade relations with India and castes as well as, to a lesser degree, capture the small but telling things that the return of local Gurkha soldiers, who Newars. make up our lives. had fought for the British in World War The process of urbanization and the Brandi is the author I led to the growing political importance consequent transformations in political, of “A Question of Jour- of Pokhara as the town became a kind of cultural, socio-economic, and environ- ney” (essays on travel in refuge for dissidents. The town’s close mental aspects of Pokhara are well de- India, Nepal, Thailand affiliation with political activists became scribed. Other issues covered by the and Bali). His other obvious towards the end of the Rana era book are folk and written literature, tour- books include “Heart- (and especially during the revolution of ism, and the interaction of the town with beat Geography,” “Visits 1950/1), and it was again confirmed 30 its hinterlands. to the City of Light.” years later during the National Referen- Kraemer is associated with the South Asia www.pilgrimsbooks.com dum of 1980. Institute, University of Heidelberg. Pilgrims Bookhouse nation weekly | MAY 30, 2004 41 Last Word

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42 MAY 30, 2004 | nation weekly