Changing London Issue 6

C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR Gre C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR CY MY CM CM C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR Gre C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR CY MY CM CM C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR Gre C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR C M Y B 5th 75 50 25 SLUR CY MY CM CM C M Y B 5th 75 50

happening feel.’ happening

people’s past lives here.’ lives past people’s though it’s so different.’ so it’s though

because they’ve got a busy, a got they’ve because

derelict buildings remind you of you remind buildings derelict

h te ulig rudi,even it, around buildings other the

communal offices and meeting halls. meeting and offices communal

Shoreditch and Whitechapel and Shoreditch together with the paper and paper the with together

Dalston where I live now. Even the Even now. live I where Dalston

and close up it fits in really well with well really in fits it up close and www.jewish-heritage-uk.org

schools, hospitals, soup kitchens, soup hospitals, schools,

too. I particularly like areas like areas like particularly I too.

text and a digital image library that, library image digital a and text fJws eiaeU,visit UK, Heritage Jewish of en nara ato odn like London, of part real a in being

works.When it’s lit up it’s fantastic it’s up lit it’s works.When

Jws iulbts,cemeteries, baths), ritual (Jewish

For further details of the work the of details further For

And that goes for the buildings the for goes that And

The Survey’s database contains both contains database Survey’s The buildings. But I like the sense of sense the like I But buildings.

everybody seems to like it. But it But it. like to seems everybody

purpose-built synagogues, purpose-built Mikvaot

NOMTO POINT INFORMATION of cultures and people in London. in people and cultures of

touristy, although it’s got wonderful got it’s although touristy,

probably a bit boring because boring bit a probably

estimated post-war peak of 450,000. of peak post-war estimated ardadsclr including secular, and sacred

Swedish, I’m attracted to the mix the to attracted I’m Swedish,

Deptford – Greenwich was too was Greenwich – Deptford

‘I very much like the Gherkin.That’s the like much very ‘I

English Heritage. English numbering just over half of the of half over just numbering h eiea otemdr,both modern, the to mediaeval the

‘Being part Japanese and part and Japanese part ‘Being

then Deptford. I preferred I Deptford. then

Dr Sharman Kadish Sharman Dr Vikram Tagore Vikram planned, with photography by photography with planned, of British Jewry is rapidly shrinking, rapidly is Jewry British of ouet,bidnsadsts from sites, and buildings monuments,

Melanie Gabuten Gabuten Melanie

Austria, I lived in Greenwich and Greenwich in lived I Austria,

is also is imminent closure – the population the – closure imminent It embraces a wide range of Jewish of range wide a embraces It Ireland: An Architectural History Architectural An Ireland:

important, it’s cheap! it’s important,

‘When I came to London from London to came I ‘When

book at risk are synagogues faced with faced synagogues are risk at Christian minority in this country. this in minority Christian The Synagogues of Britain and Britain of Synagogues The

everything there and most and there everything

Sabrina Grill Grill Sabrina

dctr n osrainss A conservationists. and educators leaino eoiin Particularly demolition. or alteration architectural heritage of a non- a of heritage architectural maybe even in Britain.You can get can Britain.You in even maybe

resource for architectural historians, architectural for resource physical danger through radical through danger physical recording project relating to the to relating project recording told me it’s the longest in London, in longest the it’s me told

Monuments Record as a national a as Record Monuments documentation of sites that are in are that sites of documentation Survey is the first thematic building thematic first the is Survey I use the market a lot – someone – lot a market the use I

deposited with the National the with deposited eegnyrcrigcss ..the i.e. cases" recording "emergency odnsEs n n19,the 1996, in End East London’s lived in Walthamstow for 30 years. 30 for Walthamstow in lived

photographic archive, will be will archive, photographic Priority has been given to given been has Priority Beginning as a pilot project in project pilot a as Beginning

‘We came from Barbados, but I’ve but Barbados, from came ‘We

Alice Richards Alice

IN THE UNITED KINGDOM AND IRELAND AND KINGDOM UNITED THE IN

apartment blocks.’ apartment

the suburbs are mostly just endless just mostly are suburbs the

the ponds on the Heath.’ the on ponds the

THE SURVEY OF THE JEWISH BUILT HERITAGE BUILT JEWISH THE OF SURVEY THE

’ rm otpol iei lt,so flats, in live people Most from. I’m the greenery all round, the views, the round, all greenery the

individual. It’s not like Paris where Paris like not It’s individual. eas ftebidn tef but itself, building the of because

that are sort of the same but same the of sort are that be Kenwood House, not just not House, Kenwood be

because of all those rows of houses of rows those all of because FOR FUTURE EXHIBITION. FUTURE FOR She is also the Project Director Director Project the also is She pick a favourite building, it would it building, favourite a pick

London suburbs. I suppose it’s suppose I suburbs. London to take this important work further. work important this take to Anglo-Jewish history and heritage. and history Anglo-Jewish ERE IT AWAITS RECONSTRUCTION AWAITS IT ERE DIG),WH THE ORGANISED Elephant and Castle.‘If I had to had I Castle.‘If and Elephant

Ealing a lot. In fact I like a lot of lot a like I fact In lot. a Ealing

found inside the Jewish community Jewish the inside found has published several books on books several published has but I own an Italian restaurant in restaurant Italian an own I but BY REMOVAL TO THE MUSEUM OF LONDON (WHICH LONDON OF MUSEUM THE TO REMOVAL BY

‘I’m biased because I live there, I like I there, live I because biased ‘I’m needed match funding will now be now will funding match needed conservation since the 1980s and 1980s the since conservation

‘I’m half Greek. I live in Highbury, in live I Greek. half ‘I’m

WAS RESCUED FROM LOSS DURING REDEVELOPMENT REDEVELOPMENT DURING LOSS FROM RESCUED WAS

Francoise Picot Francoise Heritage UK hopes that vitally that hopes UK Heritage has been active in Jewish heritage Jewish in active been has

Tom Hunter Hunter Tom

THAT HAS BEEN IDENTIFIED WITH CERTAINTY.THE ‘ CERTAINTY.THE WITH IDENTIFIED BEEN HAS THAT MIKVEH’

nls eiaegat.Jewish grants. Heritage English Its Director, Dr Sharman Kadish, Sharman Dr Director, Its

UNEARTHED IN BRITAIN IN UNEARTHED ‘ MEDIEVAL FIRST THE IS THIS

MIKVEH’ from Heritage Lottery Fund and Fund Lottery Heritage from

old buildings in beneficial use. beneficial in buildings old

FROM ENGLAND DURING THE REIGN OF EDWARD I (1290). I EDWARD OF REIGN THE DURING ENGLAND FROM synagogues have already benefited already have synagogues

imaginative ways of keeping fine fine keeping of ways imaginative

FROM BEFORE THE EXPULSION OF THE JEWISH COMMUNITY JEWISH THE OF EXPULSION THE BEFORE FROM preservation. Several historic Several preservation.

rcse n,aoeal finding all, above and, processes

heritage and raise money for its for money raise and heritage WE YJWS IACESTECEPN,DATING CRESPINS, FINANCIERS,THE JEWISH BY OWNED

through the listing and planning and listing the through

VOICES cultural rich Jewry’s British promote

(RITUAL BATH) IN THE CELLARS OF A PROPERTY A OF CELLARS THE IN BATH) (RITUAL ‘ MIKVEH’

ocnevto tnad,guidance standards, conservation to

manner – can do a great deal to deal great a do can – manner

LONDON REVEALED A 13TH CENTURY STONE-LINED CENTURY 13TH A REVEALED LONDON practicalities of carrying out repairs out carrying of practicalities

tourism – in a carefully managed carefully a in – tourism

and management of historic buildings, historic of management and

EXCAVATIONS IN 2001 IN MILK STREET IN THE CITY OF CITY THE IN STREET MILK IN 2001 IN EXCAVATIONS

Opening historic synagogues to synagogues historic Opening

posed by such issues as maintenance as issues such by posed

with members in 58 countries. 58 in members with

UK when faced with the challenges the with faced when UK

Jewish voluntary service organisation service voluntary Jewish

able to turn to Jewish Heritage Heritage Jewish to turn to able

a,ognsdb ’a rt,a Brith, B’nai by organised Day,

sites and collections.They will be will collections.They and sites

popular European Jewish Heritage Jewish European popular

responsible for historic buildings, historic for responsible

Heritage Open Days and the and Days Open Heritage

synagogue organisations which are which organisations synagogue

participation in The Civic Trust’s Civic The in participation

to congregations, trustees and trustees congregations, to

the wider public by encouraging by public wider the

independent professional support support professional independent

British Jewry’s cultural heritage to heritage cultural Jewry’s British

fills an important gap in providing in gap important an fills

Street is a reflection of that story. that of reflection a is Street Jewish Heritage UK will promote will UK Heritage Jewish

Cultural Centre, Jewish Heritage UK Heritage Jewish Centre, Cultural

history and sense of place. of sense and history corner of Brick Lane and Fournier and Lane Brick of corner former Great Synagogue (listed Synagogue Great former housing a large Jewish community Jewish large a housing

Humanities Research Board. Research Humanities the auspices of the London Jewish London the of auspices the

a way which respects their character, their respects which way a large classical building on the on building classical large Indian sub-continent. So today the today So sub-continent. Indian by the 1890s, with Spitalfields with 1890s, the by

Academy and the Arts & Arts the and Academy Foundation and operating under under operating and Foundation

communities who live there, but in but there, live who communities ehp oeta n te,the other, any than more Perhaps by people from Bangladesh and the and Bangladesh from people by into Methodist use in 1819, but but 1819, in use Methodist into

others, the RIBA,The British RIBA,The the others, a grant from Hanadiv Charitable Hanadiv from grant a

the needs of needs the suit to adapted being character and culture of the area. the of culture and character Spitalfields, being replaced gradually replaced being Spitalfields, worship in 1743. It then passed then It 1743. in worship

trce udn rm amongst from, funding attracted of Jewish Heritage UK. Set up with with up Set UK. Heritage Jewish of

the buildings of Spitalfields are are Spitalfields of buildings the significant contribution to the to contribution significant Jewish community has left has community Jewish French Church was built for their for built was Church French

Lottery Fund and which has also has which and Fund Lottery ritual silver – is the primary task task primary the is – silver ritual

Brick Lane elevation. Once again, Once elevation. Lane Brick East London. Each has made a made has Each London. East Synagogue. Since the War the War the Since Synagogue. early 18th century and the New the and century 18th early

of English Heritage and the Heritage the and Heritage English of cemeteries, archives, artefacts and artefacts archives, cemeteries,

minaret will soon be added to its to added be soon will minaret countries have settled in Spitalfields, in settled have countries as the Machzeike Hadass Great Hadass Machzeike the as France, came to Spitalfields in the in Spitalfields to came France,

which was set up with the support the with up set was which community – synagogues, – community

Masjid, or Great Mosque, and a and Mosque, Great or Masjid, groups of people from other from people of groups the church was re-consecrated re-consecrated was church the religious persecution in their native their in persecution religious

Heritage in Britain and Ireland" and Britain in Heritage heritage of Britain’s Jewish Britain’s of heritage

grade II*) has become the Jamme the become has II*) grade For more than 250 years successive years 250 than more For emanating from eastern Europe, eastern from emanating uuntsl evr,fleeing weavers, silk Huguenot

of the "Survey of the Jewish Built Jewish the of "Survey the of Protecting the material cultural material the Protecting

AGENCY TO CARE FOR ITS RICH CULTURAL HERITAGE HERITAGE CULTURAL RICH ITS FOR CARE TO AGENCY

OUR JEWISH COMMUNITY NOW HAS ITS OWN DEDICATED CONSERVATION DEDICATED OWN ITS HAS NOW COMMUNITY JEWISH OUR

EXPLAINS. AS STRONG GOING PADDY PUGH PADDY

JEWISH HERITAGE UK: HERITAGE JEWISH

ILL ST IS IT CENTURIES. THE OVER IMMIGRANTS OF COMMUNITIES DIFFERENT

Y VER THREE TO HOME SPIRITUAL A BEEN HAS LANE BRICK IN BUILDING A

CH SU JUST WORSHIP. FOR BUILDING A IN FOCUS A FIND COMMUNITIES MANY

SPRING 2005 SPRING

06 2/3

6/7 12 06 06 06 SPRING 2005 SPRING 2005 SPRING 2005 Changing London AN HISTORIC CITY FOR A MODERN WORLD Changing London

AN HISTORIC CITY FOR A MODERN WORLD NEXT ISSUE Pictures from top left to bottom right LONDON’S MARKETS RUDOLF STEINER HOUSE RELIGION AND PLACE PARK ROAD, MARYLEBONE London’s markets are one of its greatest glories. BUILDINGS AND The sinuous stairway of this grade II building IN TOWER HAMLETS From Leyton to Leadenhall, from Brixton of the 1920s reflects its founder’s belief in the to Bermondsey, markets of all shapes and sizes PEOPLE: LONDON’S expression of the spirit through the physical PETER GUILLERY INTRODUCES A BROAD RANGING SURVEY offer everything from meat, fish, fruit and veg movement of a building. MAPPING THE IMPORTANCE OF RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS AS THE to antiques and collectibles. The next issue of – www.anth.org.uk/rsh CULTURAL Changing London will examine this rich and GREEK CATHEDRAL OF AGHIA SOPHIA FOCAL POINTS FOR COMMUNITIES AND NEIGHBOURHOODS, MOSCOW ROAD, BAYSWATER NOT JUST IN LONDON, BUT ACROSS THE UK vibrant heritage of sites, buildings and street life. DIVERSITY Built in 1878-9 in Byzantine revival style – a Cathedral since 1922 and listed grade II. Religion and Place is an English Heritage research project that is London is the world’s greatest multi-cultural city. London’s first organised Greek Orthodox More than one in three Londoners – 1.8 million community was established in the 1670s. exploring the history of buildings for religious worship.The survey takes in post-Reformation buildings of all faiths and denominations, in all – are now from an ethnic minority group SHRI SWAMINARAYAN MANDIR HINDU TEMPLE sizes and architectural qualities, relating them to local patterns of with resident communities from over 90 BRENTFIELD ROAD, NEASDEN settlement up to the present to include mosques, gurdwaras and different countries. Over three hundred Opened by His Holiness Pramukh Swami mandirs alongside churches, chapels and synagogues. Places of Institut Français Institut Français The Ismaili Centre Maharaj in 1995, this is the largest Hindu languages are spoken and fourteen different stone Mandir in the Western hemisphere – worship are often the most prominent and architecturally distinctive religions practised. construction included shipping almost 6,000 buildings in any neighbourhood, to which local residents have strong Pictures from top left to bottom right tonnes of European limestone and Carrara But this is not new. London has always thrived INSTITUT FRANÇAIS marble to India for carving before bringing attachments, whether they visit them regularly or not.Tower Hamlets, QUEENSBURY PLACE back to site. by being an open and tolerant city. Since – www.mandir.org with its rich history of religious mix, has been included to represent SOUTH KENSINGTON the capital. Fieldwork in Tower Hamlets has identified 167 sites that its Roman foundation it has been a city A remarkable building of 1937-39, housing the SYNAGOGUE, BEVIS MARKS of immigrants and newcomers engaged in Institut Français – since 1910 the official French CITY OF LONDON in 2003 were either places of worship, or buildings erected for government centre of language and culture in Completed in 1701 for Sephardic Jews (from worship, but are now in other uses. Investigation of these sites is commerce. Each generation has left its mark the U.K. Listed grade II. Iberia) and listed grade I. Almost demolished in on the buildings, in the names of its streets, – www.institut-francais.org.uk Rudolf Steiner House Greek Cathedral of Aghia Sophia the 1880s, it is a spectacular and rare survival. reaching new audiences, supporting conservation initiatives and THE ISMAILI CENTRE – www.bevismarks.org creating records for posterity. and on the character of whole areas. CROMWELL ROAD Shri Swaminarayan Mandir Hindu Temple SWEDISH SEAMEN’S CHURCH This edition looks at just a handful of these SOUTH KENSINGTON LOWER ROAD, ROTHERHITHE The case studies are intended to understand buildings not primarily as Religious and cultural centre for the followers Completed in 1966 to replace an earlier artefacts, but more as reflections of distinctive local histories, and the cultural groups and their continuing of the Aga Khan, Imam to the Shia Imami building, and unmistakably Scandinavian in style, relationship with London’s spectacular Ismaili Muslim community. Completed in it serves the needs of visiting seamen and contribution they have made to local distinctiveness and sense 1983, its polished granite surface, interspersed London’s Swedish community. of place.The long view is also important, helping to draw out that heritage of both historic and modern with teak window frames, provides an – www.swedish-church.org.uk/index-eng.html ‘Old and new interesting contrast with the Victoria & Albert across centuries of immigration, persecution and assimilation there CONTACT DETAILS buildings (such as the stunning Museum directly opposite. St George’s German Lutheran Church CHINESE WORSHIP & MINISTRY CENTRE have always been established and economically dominant groups If you have not received this edition direct and wish Buddhapadipa Temple in Wimbledon are neighbours’ – www.christopherlong.co.uk/pri.ismaili.html BROOK GREEN, HAMMERSMITH Former Synagogue of 1890, recently alongside the emerging and insecure. Some assert their presence, to be added to the circulation list, then please send shown here). Londoners from Hasib Abdul, ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH OF refurbished for use by the Chinese Church others conceal theirs, sometimes gradually becoming more assertive. in your address details to: different backgrounds tell us about ST PATRICK SOHO SQUARE in London. Although established for over 50 Aged 11, the East End Built in the mid-1890s to replace an earlier years, and with a growing congregation, this is The experiences and heritages of those who do not now see Richard Dumville (Regional Policy Officer) the places and buildings that mean building that had served since 1802 as the the first building of worship that the CCIL can themselves reflected in the great buildings have precedents and London Region, English Heritage most to them, and what they only place of worship for the then growing call its own. Not listed, but it adds character 23 Savile Row, London, W1S 2ET Irish community. Italianate in style with to the surrounding Conservation Area. change our perceptions of history. An open understanding of ‘English value most about London. a striking campanile reaching 125 feet, – www.ccil.org.uk heritage’ reveals the disparate as interdependent, not as being either Alternatively you can e-mail us at St Patrick’s is listed grade II* What it reveals is that ‘ours’ or ‘theirs’. [email protected] – www.stpatricks.uk.com irrespective of their ST GEORGE’S GERMAN GURDWARA Additional copies can be obtained from English backgrounds the LUTHERAN CHURCH Heritage Customer Services – call 0870 333 1181. ALLIE STREET,TOWER HAMLETS SIKH SANGAT overwhelming The oldest German church in Britain (founded A Sikh temple, majority of in 1762), recently fully restored by the Historic housed since Chapels Trust. Listed grade II* 1963 in a former Londoners care – www.hct.org.uk 19th century passionately ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE Roman Catholic Church of St Patrick coach house GUILDHALL YARD, CITY OF LONDON Published by English Heritage about the city’s First discovered in 1988, the remains to be Swedish Seamen’s Church Edited by Gordon Dulieu and Richard Dumville past, present and seen today, carefully preserved and integrated Designed by Real 451 into the Guildhall Art Gallery, are considered future heritage. Printed by Push to date to circa AD 120 and may be Philip Davies associated with Hadrian’s visit at that time. Cover image: Buddhapadipa Temple, 14 Calonne Road Made mostly of timber, it may have housed up to 7,000 spectators. Wimbledon – www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/corporation visit www.buddhapadipa.org ST OLAV’S KIRKE & SEAMEN’S MISSION All images © Derek Kendall/English Heritage except ALBION STREET, ROTHERHITHE Cover © Richard Dumville/English Heritage CONTENTS Built in 1927 for the many Norwegian seamen 8 10 whose ships visited the docks. Listed grade II China Town © britainonview/Grant Pritchard 2/3 The Islamic Cultural Jewish Heritage UK Amphitheatre © Museum of London it now caters for a large ex-pat. community, A Brick Lane building Centre and London 11 and has strong links with the Norwegian Calcutta © Philip Davies Central Mosque – chapel, synagogue, The Jamyang Centre Royal Family. Mikveh © Andy Chopping/MoLAS – www.sjomannskirken.no mosque 9 Shri Swaminaryan © BAPS Swaminaryan Sanstha 12 Londoners’ Voices The Anglo Sikh Cannizaro House © Cannizaro House Faith Places 4/7 Heritage Trail Product code: 50940 A Rich Cultural Tapestry Roman Amphitheatre St Olav’s Kirke & Seamen’s Mission Synagogue, Bevis Marks Chinese Worship & Ministry Centre

CyanMagentaYellowBlack 51212_ChangingLondon 1 A 12:23:11 05/18/2005 06 2/3 SPRING 2005

MANY COMMUNITIES FIND A FOCUS IN A BUILDING FOR WORSHIP.JUST SUCH A BRICK LANE BUILDING – A BUILDING IN BRICK LANE HAS BEEN A SPIRITUAL HOME TO THREE VERY DIFFERENT COMMUNITIES OF IMMIGRANTS OVER THE CENTURIES. IT IS STILL CHAPEL, GOING STRONG AS PADDY PUGH EXPLAINS.

SYNAGOGUE, For more than 250 years successive Huguenot silk weavers, fleeing emanating from eastern Europe, grade II*) has become the Jamme groups of people from other religious persecution in their native the church was re-consecrated Masjid, or Great Mosque, and a countries have settled in Spitalfields, France, came to Spitalfields in the as the Machzeike Hadass Great minaret will soon be added to its East London. Each has made a early 18th century and the New Synagogue. Since the War the Brick Lane elevation. Once again, MOSQUE…. significant contribution to the French Church was built for their Jewish community has left the buildings of Spitalfields are character and culture of the area. worship in 1743. It then passed Spitalfields, being replaced gradually being adapted to suit the needs of Perhaps more than any other, the into Methodist use in 1819, but by people from Bangladesh and the communities who live there, but in large classical building on the by the 1890s, with Spitalfields Indian sub-continent. So today the a way which respects their character, corner of Brick Lane and Fournier housing a large Jewish community former Great Synagogue (listed history and sense of place. Street is a reflection of that story. LONDONERS’VOICES CHANGING LONDON ASKED A GROUP OF LONDONERS TO NAME THEIR FAVOURITE AREA, BUILDING OR OTHER PART OF HISTORIC LONDON.

Peter Romanski Vishula Mahabir Tom Hunter Francoise Picot ‘London doesn’t forget.There are ‘It’s got to be Soho. I really like the ‘I’m half Greek. I live in Highbury, ‘I’m biased because I live there, I like so many memorials and statues. buzz of the area, especially Old but I own an Italian restaurant in Ealing a lot. In fact I like a lot of My favourite is the one of King Compton Street with all its bars Elephant and Castle.‘If I had to London suburbs. I suppose it’s George III on horseback near and pavement cafes. London is pick a favourite building, it would because of all those rows of houses Trafalgar Square.Very elegant, quite really becoming a 24 hour town. be Kenwood House, not just that are sort of the same but unlike ‘Mad King George’. My family It’s great.’ because of the building itself, but individual. It’s not like Paris where are from Poland and of course, he the greenery all round, the views, I’m from. Most people live in flats, so came from immigrant stock too.’ the ponds on the Heath.’ the suburbs are mostly just endless apartment blocks.’ Henry Lee ‘My parents came from Hong Kong Alice Richards to open a restaurant in London ‘We came from Barbados, but I’ve and we’ve been in Chinatown lived in Walthamstow for 30 years. ever since. I love it. I just hope the I use the market a lot – someone current proposals to redevelop it told me it’s the longest in London, maybe even in Britain.You can get don’t happen. It’s a real centre for Sabrina Grill everything there and most the Chinese community – although ‘When I came to London from maybe the pagoda-shaped phone important, it’s cheap! Melanie Gabuten Austria, I lived in Greenwich and boxes are a bit much!’ Joel Karamath Ayumo ‘Being part Japanese and part then Deptford. I preferred Vikram Tagore Vera Okumbe ‘For me, it’s not so much specific Nakamura Swedish, I’m attracted to the mix Deptford – Greenwich was too ‘I very much like the Gherkin.That’s I love the parks and gardens. In buildings. It’s the amazing range of ‘I like ornate buildings, Gothic of cultures and people in London. touristy, although it’s got wonderful probably a bit boring because Ghana, we’ve lots of open space uses that London puts its historic buildings like St Pancras. I suppose And that goes for the buildings buildings. But I like the sense of everybody seems to like it. But it of course but it’s not green like in buildings to – like the ICA in the it’s because in Japan where I come too. I particularly like areas like being in a real part of London, like works.When it’s lit up it’s fantastic London. I live near Crystal Palace Mall. Here’s this really classic from, everything is very simple. Shoreditch and Whitechapel Dalston where I live now. Even the and close up it fits in really well with and my kids love the dinosaur building and inside there’s In London there are so many because they’ve got a busy, derelict buildings remind you of the other buildings around it, even statues in our local park.’ cutting-edge art.’ elaborate buildings.’ happening feel.’ people’s past lives here.’ though it’s so different.’ 06 2/3 SPRING 2005

HERE WE LOOK AT A CROSS-SECTION OF THE CAPITAL’S RICH MIX OF BUILDINGS AND A RICH STRUCTURES WHICH ARE ASSOCIATED WITH PAST AND PRESENT COMMUNITIES. SOME ARE RECENT (AND POSSIBLE LISTED BUILDINGS OF THE FUTURE) CULTURAL ADDING TO THE LOCAL DISTINCTIVENESS OF LONDON’S VARIED NEIGHBOURHOODS. A NUMBER OF OLDER ONES ARE NOW BEING PUT TO NEW TAPESTRY USES – IT IS THE INFORMAL FLEXIBILITY OF OLD BUILDINGS THAT HAS SO OFTEN PROVED A SEEDBED FOR NEWCOMERS, NEGATING ASSUMPTIONS THAT THE OLD SHOULD BE SWEPT AWAY IN THE NAME OF PROGRESS.

Pellicci’s Café Pellicci’s Café

Pictures from far left to right CHINATOWN GERRARD STREET,WESTMINSTER Established by families moving out of the bomb-ravaged east end after 1945, Chinatown, centred on Gerrard Street with its many listed former Georgian townhouses has secured itself as one of the capital’s most colourful attractions. Caption – www.chinatown-online.co.uk PELLICCI’S CAFÉ BETHNAL GREEN ROAD One of a dying breed: grade II listed classic Italian café, run by the Pellicci family since 1900 (remodelled into its current form in 1946) and decorated with art deco marquetry panelling and Formica worktops. – www.classiccafes.co.uk French Hospital Former Odeon Cinema FRENCH HOSPITAL MONMOUTH STREET, SEVEN DIALS Former 19th century French Hospital, now the Covent Garden Hotel. FORMER ODEON CINEMA PARSONS HILL,WOOLWICH Art Deco streamlining at its best: grade II former Odeon cinema of 1937, once unused and a “Building at Risk”, now sympathetically restored and finding a new lease of life as a home for the evangelical New Wine Church and conference centre. – www.gatewayhouse.com JEWISH SOUP KITCHEN BRUNE STREET, SPITALFIELDS Built in 1902 to provide charitable support for Jewish immigrants to the area and grade II listed. Since converted to high quality apartments, but retaining its finely inscribed Abdesselam Ben Daoud terracotta cornice. – www.portcities.org.uk/london Chinatown Jewish Soup Kitchen Jewish Soup Kitchen 06 4/5 SPRING 2005

Pellicci’s Café Pellicci’s Café

Pictures from top left to bottom right RUDOLF STEINER HOUSE PARK ROAD, MARYLEBONE The sinuous stairway of this grade II building of the 1920s reflects its founder’s belief in the expression of the spirit through the physical movement of a building. – www.anth.org.uk/rsh GREEK CATHEDRAL OF AGHIA SOPHIA MOSCOW ROAD, BAYSWATER Built in 1878-9 in Byzantine revival style – a Cathedral since 1922 and listed grade II. London’s first organised Greek Orthodox community was established in the 1670s. SHRI SWAMINARAYAN MANDIR HINDU TEMPLE BRENTFIELD ROAD, NEASDEN Opened by His Holiness Pramukh Swami Institut Francais Institut Français The Ismaili Centre Maharaj in 1995, this is the largest Hindu stone Mandir in the Western hemisphere – construction included shipping almost 6,000 Pictures from top left to bottom right tonnes of European limestone and Carrara INSTITUT FRANÇAIS marble to India for carving before bringing QUEENSBURY PLACE back to site. SOUTH KENSINGTON – www.mandir.org A remarkable building of 1937-39, housing the SYNAGOGUE, BEVIS MARKS Institut Français – since 1910 the official French CITY OF LONDON government centre of language and culture in Completed in 1701 for Sephardic Jews (from the U.K. Listed grade II. Iberia) and listed grade I. Almost demolished in – www.institut-francais.org.uk Rudolf Steiner House Greek Cathedral of Aghia Sophia the 1880s, it is a spectacular and rare survival. THE ISMAILI CENTRE – www.bevismarks.org CROMWELL ROAD Shri Swaminarayan Mandir Hindu Temple SWEDISH SEAMEN’S CHURCH SOUTH KENSINGTON LOWER ROAD, ROTHERHITHE Religious and cultural centre for the followers Completed in 1966 to replace an earlier of the Aga Khan, Imam to the Shia Imami building, and unmistakably Scandinavian in style, Ismaili Muslim community. Completed in it serves the needs of visiting seamen and 1983, its polished granite surface, interspersed London’s Swedish community. with teak window frames, provides an – www.swedish-church.org.uk/index-eng.html interesting contrast with the Victoria & Albert Museum directly opposite. St George’s German Lutheran Church CHINESE WORSHIP & MINISTRY CENTRE – www.christopherlong.co.uk/pri.ismaili.html BROOK GREEN, HAMMERSMITH Former Synagogue of 1890, recently ROMAN CATHOLIC CHURCH OF refurbished for use by the Chinese Church ST PATRICK SOHO SQUARE in London. Although established for over 50 Built in the mid-1890s to replace an earlier years, and with a growing congregation, this is building that had served since 1802 as the the first building of worship that the CCIL can only place of worship for the then growing call its own. Not listed, but it adds character Irish community. Italianate in style with to the surrounding Conservation Area. a striking campanile reaching 125 feet, – www.ccil.org.uk St Patrick’s is listed grade II* – www.stpatricks.uk.com ST GEORGE’S GERMAN LUTHERAN CHURCH ALLIE STREET,TOWER HAMLETS The oldest German church in Britain (founded in 1762), recently fully restored by the Historic Chapels Trust. Listed grade II* – www.hct.org.uk ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE Roman Catholic Church of St Patrick GUILDHALL YARD, CITY OF LONDON First discovered in 1988, the remains to be Swedish Seamen’s Church seen today, carefully preserved and integrated into the Guildhall Art Gallery, are considered to date to circa AD 120 and may be associated with Hadrian’s visit at that time. Made mostly of timber, it may have housed up to 7,000 spectators. – www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/corporation ST OLAV’S KIRKE & SEAMEN’S MISSION ALBION STREET, ROTHERHITHE Built in 1927 for the many Norwegian seamen whose ships visited the docks. Listed grade II it now caters for a large ex-pat. community, and has strong links with the Norwegian Royal Family. – www.sjomannskirken.no

Roman Amphitheatre St Olav’s Kirke & Seamen’s Mission Synagogue, Bevis Marks Chinese Worship & Ministry Centre 06 6/7 SPRING 2005

Roman Amphitheatre St Olav’s Kirke & Seamen’s Mission Synagogue, Bevis Marks Chinese Worship & Ministry Centre 06 8/9 SPRING 2005

THE MINARET ‘PRESERVING THE PAST, THAT CALLS INSPIRING THE FUTURE’ TO LONDONERS CELEBRATING SIKH HERITAGE HARBINDER SINGH THE LONDON CENTRAL MOSQUE IN REGENT’S PARK IS NOT JUST A PLACE OF THE ANGLO SIKH OF WORSHIP:THE ISLAMIC CULTURAL CENTRE WHICH IS PART OF THE HERITAGE TRAIL COMPLEX IS THE MOST IMPORTANT OF ITS KIND IN THE WESTERN WORLD. EXPLAINS THE AIMS OF GORDON DULIEU WENT TO FIND OUT MORE. THIS NEW INITIATIVE. Moves to establish a mosque in contribute to the life of London and central London began as far back as the wider world. In 1994, we opened the 1890s, but it wasn’t until 1920 the Islamic Cultural Centre at a cost that a formal proposal was put of £2 million.’ forward. ‘Even so,’ says Abdesselam The range of events and activities at Ben Daoud, the Mosque’s press the Centre is impressive. It receives officer, ‘it took until 1940 for the around 15,000 visitors a year and government to agree in principle.The welcomes members of many faiths; Egyptian ambassador was the main the staff are particularly active in force, urging the Prime Minister, Neville interfaith groups. ‘The library houses Cannizaro House,Wimbledon, was built in the early 18th century as a gracious private Chamberlain to allow the project to go 20,000 books and manuscripts on all residence and, over the years, has been home to a number of distinguished figures, including the last Maharajah of the Punjab, Duleep Singh. It has been converted into a ahead.’ The U.K. made a donation of aspects of Islam,’ says Abdesselam. £100,000 and the rest of the amount 45 bedroom hotel, with beautiful landscaped grounds which hold many delightful surprises, ‘It’s important people learn about their including a ‘Gothic’ aviary, ornamental lake and, in the summer months, an open air theatre. required to purchase the land in culture, especially children, and we try Regent’s Park was raised across the to encourage that at all times.We run Muslim world. The Anglo Sikh Heritage Trail is a In recent years as various initiatives Trail. In explaining the Anglo Sikh Islamic courses for those who want to unique project that promises to have highlighted the true extent of relationship through the historic Abdesselam takes up the story: know more or are exploring Islam for change the cultural landscape of how much relevant material is to environment, the Trail offers a major ‘2.3 acres at Hanover Gate were the first time. And there’s a ‘New Britain. Supported by the Heritage be found in the UK, issues of Sikh source of information, education bought, complete with the original Muslim’ programme because there Lottery Fund and English Heritage heritage & culture have gained and inspiration, and it will develop villa. King George VI formally handed are an increasing number of converts it was launched in July 2004. prominence within the community. dynamically with new material, it over in 1944, but still the project – Islam is a world religion after all. This was highlighted at an initial locations and partners coming was slow to get going.The first plans We also offer courses such as our The Trail is a project of the Maharajah Duleep Singh Centenary consultative conference for the on stream all the time. wereCaption not finalised until 1959 – and training course for those making the Trail held at the V&A in July 2001. The Old Silver Mint they were rejected. I think it was a Hajj, the pilgrimage to Mecca.’ Tr ust. MDSCT was first established Given that a central aspiration cultural rather than a design thing: in 1993, the centenary year of the Conceived as a national initiative, of the project is to establish and The Centre also offers secular help Maharajah’s death, with the objective the Anglo Sikh Heritage Trail draws maintain durable links between SAVING some people didn’t seem to want a as well: free legal advice, courses on mosque there. But the trustees pressed of highlighting and promoting Anglo together all relevant UK locations, institutions and communities, we political and cultural issues, even free Sikh Heritage. Since then it has institutions and artefacts into one are focusing specifically on on and organised an international health care. Abdesselam Ben Daoud CALCUTTA competition.There were 52 designs engaged in a series of initiatives, inspirational project, including, of developing volunteer recruitment. sums up the spirit of the place: ‘Our Together with the London Rivers from 17 countries. Finally, in 1973 including the ‘Arts of the Sikh course, London. From the final We have already made great aim is to support the Islamic Association and a number of other a design by the British architect Kingdoms’ exhibition in collaboration resting place of the first Sikh settler, strides in attracting young Sikh community in this country, but also to consultants, English Heritage has Frederick Gibberd was chosen and with the V&A; the annual ‘Portrait of to royal treasures and palaces, the volunteers. We are now seeking build bridges to overcome prejudice. been demonstrating how building went ahead at last.’ Courage’ Lecture at the Imperial War project vividly demonstrates the to widen this to all age groups That’s why this building is so Museum; the ‘Jawans to Generals’ deep historical roots that make through a series of events for conservation-led regeneration can ‘This building Costs rose: the original figure of £3 important, not just to the Muslim Exhibition in collaboration with the Sikh community no strangers community organisations. transform one of the world’s most million became £6 million. However, community, but to London as a whole.’ English Heritage, and numerous to the UK. deprived cities. Once the city of is important the London Central Mosque was palaces and the capital of British other projects, including the For the first time ever the Trail will finally a reality. ‘But like so many faith India, Calcutta’s magnificent heritage not just to commissioning of a bronze statue bring to life a little known aspect buildings, the Mosque has always of buildings holds the key to its of Maharajah Duleep Singh, the of the cultural landscape of Britain. INFORMATION POINT been much more than just a place future prosperity. By sharing our the Muslim first major piece of Sikh art outside Visitors to the ASHT website will For information on the work of of worship,’ comments Abdesselam. the Islamic Cultural Centre and skills and experience with fellow India. In 1993 and 1998 the Trust be able to follow the Trail through ‘It became clear that we needed London Central Mosque, visit professionals we are helping the community but hosted two highly successful festivals a series of locations, exhibits & to build an extension to house the www.iccuk.org local agencies there to develop a of Anglo Sikh heritage with the latter institutions; plan actual visits and many activities designed to help our adopted by the V&A for the launch The Anglo Sikh Heritage Trail’s conservation-based strategy for the to London as explore the themes which provide website can be found at community learn about their faith, of the "Arts of the Sikh Kingdoms" www.asht.info regeneration of the heart of the city. Abdesselam Ben Daoud the historical background to the a whole’ their culture and how they could exhibition. 06 8/9 SPRING 2005

JEWISH HERITAGE UK: THE JAMYANG CENTRE: OUR JEWISH COMMUNITY NOW HAS ITS OWN DEDICATED CONSERVATION AGENCY TO CARE FOR ITS RICH CULTURAL HERITAGE A HAVEN OF PEACE IN Protecting the material cultural of the "Survey of the Jewish Built heritage of Britain’s Jewish Heritage in Britain and Ireland" community – synagogues, which was set up with the support BUSTLING SOUTH LONDON cemeteries, archives, artefacts and of English Heritage and the Heritage ritual silver – is the primary task Lottery Fund and which has also A BUILDING THAT ONCE DISPENSED EARTHLY LAW BUT of Jewish Heritage UK. Set up with attracted funding from, amongst WHICH NOW BESTOWS A MORE SPIRITUAL MESSAGE. a grant from Hanadiv Charitable others, the RIBA,The British Foundation and operating under Academy and the Arts & Not so long ago a visit to this statue of Buddha placed where the the auspices of the London Jewish Humanities Research Board. Victorian building, tucked away in Magistrate once sat. Holding cells Cultural Centre, Jewish Heritage UK Jewish Heritage UK will promote a quiet backstreet of Kennington, are now offices and the former fills an important gap in providing British Jewry’s cultural heritage to would probably have resulted in high-security courtyard is now a independent professional support the wider public by encouraging some form of punishment being tranquil garden retreat for meditation. to congregations, trustees and participation in The Civic Trust’s meted out or even being placed For a very modest sum, it is even synagogue organisations which are Heritage Open Days and the under lock and key. Happily, the possible to stay in the original cells, responsible for historic buildings, popular European Jewish Heritage welcome now is far warmer and the which have been retained as b&b sites and collections.They will be Day, organised by B’nai Brith, a accommodation on offer is voluntary! accommodation, although this time able to turn to Jewish Heritage Jewish voluntary service organisation This former Criminal Magistrates you get to keep the key! UK when faced with the challenges with members in 58 countries. Court was built in 1869 to the The Jamyang Buddhist Centre posed by such issues as maintenance EXCAVATIONS IN 2001 IN MILK STREET IN THE CITY OF Opening historic synagogues to designs of Thomas Charles Sorby. follows the Gelugpa Tradition of and management of historic buildings, tourism – in a carefully managed Faced in red brick with stone Tibetan Buddhism, and it was visited LONDON REVEALED A 13TH CENTURY STONE-LINED practicalities of carrying out repairs manner – can do a great deal to dressings, it is the earliest surviving by its foremost teacher, the Dalai ‘MIKVEH’ (RITUAL BATH) IN THE CELLARS OF A PROPERTY to conservation standards, guidance promote British Jewry’s rich cultural example of this type of building in Lama in 1999.The Centre provides OWNED BY JEWISH FINANCIERS,THE CRESPINS, DATING through the listing and planning heritage and raise money for its London. After being replaced by a a wide range of classes and FROM BEFORE THE EXPULSION OF THE JEWISH COMMUNITY processes and, above all, finding preservation. Several historic new facility in nearby Camberwell workshops both for newcomers imaginative ways of keeping fine FROM ENGLAND DURING THE REIGN OF EDWARD I (1290). synagogues have already benefited Green, it became a maximum and those looking for more detailed old buildings in beneficial use. THIS IS THE FIRST MEDIEVAL ‘MIKVEH’ UNEARTHED IN BRITAIN from Heritage Lottery Fund and security court for special remands, knowledge and understanding of THAT HAS BEEN IDENTIFIED WITH CERTAINTY.THE ‘MIKVEH’ Its Director, Dr Sharman Kadish, English Heritage grants. Jewish housing, amongst others, suspected Tibetan Buddhist teaching.The has been active in Jewish heritage Heritage UK hopes that vitally IRA terrorists and those who took Centre is to be applauded for the WAS RESCUED FROM LOSS DURING REDEVELOPMENT conservation since the 1980s and needed match funding will now be part in the Iranian Embassy siege. tremendous achievement in saving BY REMOVAL TO THE MUSEUM OF LONDON (WHICH has published several books on found inside the Jewish community Its closure in 1990 led to a period the building and providing it with a ORGANISED THE DIG),WHERE IT AWAITS RECONSTRUCTION Anglo-Jewish history and heritage. to take this important work further. of disuse and neglect, and with new lease of life. It is somehow FOR FUTURE EXHIBITION. She is also the Project Director decay setting in, this important fitting that a building designed for building could easily have been trial and punishment has been demolished or converted out of all adapted in to a centre for spiritual THE SURVEY OF THE JEWISH BUILT HERITAGE recognition. Listed grade II in 1993, enlightenment. and immediately placed on English Heritage’s Register of Buildings at IN THE UNITED KINGDOM AND IRELAND Risk it was purchased at auction and sensitively converted into the Beginning as a pilot project in Priority has been given to photographic archive, will be Jamyang Buddhist Centre. Much of London’s East End in 1996, the "emergency recording cases" i.e. the deposited with the National the work was done by volunteers, Survey is the first thematic building documentation of sites that are in Monuments Record as a national although an award of over £300,000 recording project relating to the physical danger through radical resource for architectural historians, from the Heritage Lottery Fund architectural heritage of a non- alteration or demolition. Particularly educators and conservationists. A helped to ensure high standard Christian minority in this country. at risk are synagogues faced with book The Synagogues of Britain and repairs to the roof, fabric and It embraces a wide range of Jewish imminent closure – the population Ireland: An Architectural History is also services. Dr Sharman Kadish monuments, buildings and sites, from of British Jewry is rapidly shrinking, planned, with photography by the mediaeval to the modern, both numbering just over half of the English Heritage. Unattractive recent additions were sacred and secular, including estimated post-war peak of 450,000. removed, but great care was taken INFORMATION POINT INFORMATION POINT to retain original features, so most For further details of the work purpose-built synagogues, Mikvaot The Survey’s database contains both For further details of the work (Jewish ritual baths), cemeteries, of the panelling, doors, fireplaces, of the Centre visit of Jewish Heritage UK, visit text and a digital image library that, glazed brick and signs can still be www.jamyang.co.uk or www.jewish-heritage-uk.org schools, hospitals, soup kitchens, together with the paper and telephone 020 7820 8787. It is communal offices and meeting halls. seen.The main court has become located at 43 Renfrew Road, SE11 the Shrine Room, with a nine foot 06 10/11 SPRING 2005

AN HISTORIC CITY FOR A MODERN WORLD NEXT ISSUE RELIGION AND PLACE LONDON’S MARKETS London’s markets are one of its greatest glories. BUILDINGS AND IN TOWER HAMLETS From Leyton to Leadenhall, from Brixton to Bermondsey, markets of all shapes and sizes PEOPLE: LONDON’S PETER GUILLERY INTRODUCES A BROAD RANGING SURVEY offer everything from meat, fish, fruit and veg MAPPING THE IMPORTANCE OF RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS AS THE to antiques and collectibles. The next issue of CULTURAL FOCAL POINTS FOR COMMUNITIES AND NEIGHBOURHOODS, Changing London will examine this rich and NOT JUST IN LONDON, BUT ACROSS THE UK vibrant heritage of sites, buildings and street life. DIVERSITY Religion and Place is an English Heritage research project that is London is the world’s greatest multi-cultural city. exploring the history of buildings for religious worship.The survey More than one in three Londoners – 1.8 million takes in post-Reformation buildings of all faiths and denominations, in all – are now from an ethnic minority group sizes and architectural qualities, relating them to local patterns of with resident communities from over 90 settlement up to the present to include mosques, gurdwaras and different countries. Over three hundred mandirs alongside churches, chapels and synagogues. Places of languages are spoken and fourteen different worship are often the most prominent and architecturally distinctive religions practised. buildings in any neighbourhood, to which local residents have strong But this is not new. London has always thrived attachments, whether they visit them regularly or not.Tower Hamlets, with its rich history of religious mix, has been included to represent by being an open and tolerant city. Since the capital. Fieldwork in Tower Hamlets has identified 167 sites that its Roman foundation it has been a city in 2003 were either places of worship, or buildings erected for of immigrants and newcomers engaged in worship, but are now in other uses. Investigation of these sites is commerce. Each generation has left its mark reaching new audiences, supporting conservation initiatives and on the buildings, in the names of its streets, creating records for posterity. and on the character of whole areas. The case studies are intended to understand buildings not primarily as This edition looks at just a handful of these artefacts, but more as reflections of distinctive local histories, and the cultural groups and their continuing contribution they have made to local distinctiveness and sense relationship with London’s spectacular of place.The long view is also important, helping to draw out that heritage of both historic and modern ‘Old and new across centuries of immigration, persecution and assimilation there CONTACT DETAILS buildings (such as the stunning have always been established and economically dominant groups If you have not received this edition direct and wish Buddhapadipa Temple in Wimbledon are neighbours’ alongside the emerging and insecure. Some assert their presence, to be added to the circulation list, then please send shown here). Londoners from Hasib Abdul, others conceal theirs, sometimes gradually becoming more assertive. in your address details to: different backgrounds tell us about Aged 11, the East End The experiences and heritages of those who do not now see Richard Dumville (Regional Policy Officer) the places and buildings that mean themselves reflected in the great buildings have precedents and London Region, English Heritage most to them, and what they change our perceptions of history. An open understanding of ‘English 23 Savile Row, London, W1S 2ET value most about London. heritage’ reveals the disparate as interdependent, not as being either Alternatively you can e-mail us at ‘ours’ or ‘theirs’. What it reveals is that [email protected] irrespective of their GURDWARA Additional copies can be obtained from English backgrounds the SIKH SANGAT Heritage Customer Services – call 0870 333 1181. overwhelming A Sikh temple, housed since majority of 1963 in a former Londoners care 19th century passionately coach house Published by English Heritage about the city’s Edited by Gordon Dulieu and Richard Dumville past, present and Designed by Real 451 future heritage. Printed by Push Philip Davies Cover image: Buddhapadipa Temple, 14 Calonne Road Wimbledon visit www.buddhapadipa.org

All images © Derek Kendall/English Heritage except Cover © Richard Dumville/English Heritage CONTENTS 8 10 China Town © britainonview/Grant Pritchard 2/3 The Islamic Cultural Jewish Heritage UK Amphitheatre © Museum of London A Brick Lane building Centre and London 11 Calcutta © Philip Davies Central Mosque – chapel, synagogue, The Jamyang Centre Mikveh © Andy Chopping/MoLAS mosque 9 Shri Swaminaryan © BAPS Swaminaryan Sanstha 12 Londoners’ Voices The Anglo Sikh Cannizaro House © Cannizaro House Faith Places 4/7 Heritage Trail Product code: 50940 A Rich Cultural Tapestry