Wallonia Land of Water Chateau De Walzin © P.Gerard
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Wallonia Land of Water Chateau de Walzin © P.Gerard Welcome to our autumn magazine keeping you up-to-date with tourism initiatives in Wallonia - the southern, French-speaking region of Belgium. If you paid attention during school geography class you might have raised an eyebrow at the title – ‘Wallonia – Land of Water’ – and wonder how a region that’s entirely land-locked, without even a distant glimpse of the sea, could make such a claim. But it’s true! Four great rivers and their tributaries have shaped Wallonia’s industrial, cultural and social history, and continue to do so today. The rivers Meuse and Escaut brought trade to the region; the Semois and Ourthe attract nature-loving, thrill- seeking tourists by the thousand. Add to those rivers Wallonia’s extensive canal network and some gorgeous lakes created by man but finessed by nature, and you have a recipe for a short break or longer vacation with the potential for a thrilling aquatic adventure in the wild Ardennes or a relaxed excursion on the calmer waters elsewhere. We hope this magazine will inspire you to consider this surprisingly diverse corner of north-west Europe to plan your next weekend break or longer holiday. It’s only a stone’s throw away: Wallonia is a mere 90-minute drive from the Channel ports of Calais and Dunkirk and the excellent motorway network gets you from one side of Wallonia to the other surprisingly quickly. And country towns like Mons, Namur, Liege can be reached by train in less than 3 hours from London by Eurostar. There’s more information and news of special offers on our website: walloniabelgiumtourism.co.uk and if you need more advice our London-based travel team on 020 7531 0390 will be pleased to help. We look forward to hearing from you. Bienvenue en Wallonie, Terre d’Eau! 3 DINANT – Country A PICTUREDinant POSTCARD COME TO LIFE Dinant, ‘The Daughter of the Meuse’, Towns is notable for its citadel, its dramatic cliff – the Bayard Rock - and the onion-shaped dome of the Collegiate church. A ribbon of colourful shops, cafés and restaurants running along the riverside ‘Croisette’ completes the perfect tableau. The Citadel that stands today was built in 1815, but the town has been fortified for nearly a thousand years. A cable car takes you to the top, where you can explore the dungeons and kitchens and a museum of carriages and weaponry. Back at river level, you can take a boat trip on the Meuse, which flows through glorious countryside © Dinant Evasion hereabouts, past grand châteaux and villas perched on steep cliffs. Alternatively hire a motorboat (no driving license required) and enjoy the river at your own pace. The ‘Croisette’ has been upgraded recently, with a dedicated path for pedestrians and cyclists that connects with the RAVeL track if you want to venture further afield. RAVeL network is made of over 840 miles of cycle routes throughout the region (see page 26). Just south of the town is another river with a very different character to the stately Meuse. Stretches of the fast-flowing Lesse are ideal for Bouillon Castle kayaking and canoeing, without © MT Bouillon Christel Francois being Olympic-level dangerous. Hire your craft and equipment in Dinant, BOUILLON – The Semois flows gently enough from where you’re driven to the THE PEARL IN THE HILLS for relaxed canoeing and kayaking, launching point a few miles into the Bouillon is tucked into a sharp with steep banks and ever-changing hills to begin your descent. © WBT Anibal Trejo meander of the photogenic river views enhancing the experience. Semois within a few miles of the An unmissable natural feature is the For music-lovers, Dinant is best French border. The town’s narrow ‘Giant’s Tomb’, a rocky headland known as the birthplace of the Bathtub Regata streets are shaped by the course of shaped like a coffin, decorated by saxophone and its inventor Adolphe © WBT M. Weemans the river, but everything is dominated an oak forest and almost entirely Sax. You cannot miss the giant by the medieval castle (described surrounded by the river. For walkers, models of the instrument running on page 22) high above the town, there are numerous short trails along along the Charles de Gaulle bridge. Tombeau du Géant from where the First Crusade was the twisting river valley. This is a © WBT J.P.Remy launched in 1096. The crusade popular holiday area for Belgians, Every year, on 15th August, is vividly brought to life at the and many old farm cottages have thousands of spectators line the Archéoscope, where stunning special been converted into gîtes – many riverbank and bridge to witness one effects are presented in a restored of them available for rent. From the of the world’s most bizarre regattas, convent down by the river. high ground, the panoramic view of involving a fleet of home-made the village of Frahan is another of bathtubs which race each other Wallonia’s scenic gems. along the river. The tubs can only be propelled by human force, and many of them, often hilariously, come to grief. Nobody cares much who wins... it’s the beauty and originality of the designs that earn the loudest © WBT David Samyn cheers and the top prizes. 4 5 Durbuy La Roche-en-Ardenne © WBT Bruno D’Alimonte © Dominik Ketz Durbuy Topiary La Roche-en-ardenne (c) WBT M. Weemans © WBT J.L.Flemal DURBUY – A VILLAGE? A TOWN? OR THE SMALLEST CITY ON EARTH? At the heart of the Ardennes, © WBT J.P.Remy the self-styled ‘smallest city on earth’ (courtesy of a Bishop’s LA ROCHE – charter awarded in 1331) fills a HIDDEN GEM IN THE ARDENNES narrow ravine created by the Surrounded by verdant forests, meandering river Ourthe, which sweet valleys and agricultural fields, curls around the place just like the La Roche is one of Wallonia’s most Semois at Bouillon. popular tourist haunts. It lies on the river Ourthe, a picturesque tributary Arriving in Durbuy is like stepping of the Meuse. La Roche is the ideal into a medieval film-set, with its place for a relaxing break or family narrow cobbled lanes and courtyards activity holiday, with easy access flanked by immaculate stone houses, to the countryside and excellent in the winter of 1944/45. The so- Every year in September for two and a turreted castle on a rocky Miniscule as it is, Durbuy has kayaking and stand-up paddling called Battle of the Ardennes is days, La Roche organises an promontory. The oldest of the streets, managed to squeeze in a remarkable on the river. evocatively commemorated by the incredible soup festival. You just rue Daufresne de la Chevalerie, is number of quality hotels, restaurants museum of the same name. The have to buy a bowl to taste any of entirely paved with pebbles taken and attractions to keep young and The town’s ruined feudal castle is of town was eventually liberated by the recipes on offer. But if you prefer from the river. old happily occupied. There’s a truly great interest because it’s said to be American and British troops, and it’s a different kind of liquid, only a few extraordinary topiary garden (one haunted. It’s a long and complicated the only museum in Belgium with a kilometres away you can immerse Durbuy is also renowned for its of the largest in Europe with over story, and impossible to authenticate, separate British section, complete yourself in the Ardennes brewing gastronomy – notably crayfish from 200 box tree sculptures), as well but the ruins are atmospherically with life-sized mannequins of the world. The brewery with the little red the river and a quiche to which as an adventure park, and, in the illuminated after dark. troops who turned the tide of the gnome (Achouffe) specialises in the the town gives it name: tartouille surrounding hills, arguably the finest war at a critical moment. VE Day brewing of quality special beers. durbuysienne, made with local blue hiking and mountain bike trails in The town found itself in the firing line came only four months later. Durbuy cheese, Ardennes ham and walnuts. the Low Countries. © WBT J.P.Remy during the German offensive 6 7 NAMUR – On dry ground, one of the best Liège A CAPITALNamur PLACE TO EXPLORE ways of exploring Namur is to The capital of Wallonia and gateway take a rickshaw ride with a multi- to the Ardennes boasts not one lingual guide who explains the most river, but two: the town was built interesting features while pedalling around the point where the Meuse you around the ancient streets and and Sambre meet, and a variety of lanes. sightseeing cruises start and finish their excursions a short distance Thanks largely to the impregnability away at the Quai de Meuse. of the Citadel, much of Namur’s architectural heritage has been Alternatively, the two rivers can be preserved, with as many as ten enjoyed on board a ‘Namourette’, sites – including the 14th century one of the flotilla of pleasure boats belfry – classified as being of that shuttle backwards and forwards exceptional heritage. throughout the summer. Boats with a driver can also be rented privately. Heading south of town takes you The river is a hive of activity in high to Wallonia’s strawberry-growing season. From the floating terrace district, and the Strawberry Museum of La Capitainerie on the Boulevard at Wépion, located in a former villa de la Meuse, you can hire all kinds by the Meuse, has five exhibition of craft or try your luck at stand- rooms and a shop selling every up paddling (SUP for short), an conceivable kind of strawberry- off-shoot of surfing imported from flavoured food and drink.