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Newsletter the Start of a Campaign

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POST 2 — FRIDAY JUNE 16TH 1865 — from Zinal JUNE N°2 16TH 2015 The Story So Far In Zermatt, Herr Seiler of the Monte Rosa hotel brought me up to date with Edward Whymper’s aborted hopes for the Matterhorn last July. Then I received news that Mr Whymper’s 1865 campaign is already underway and he was soon to reach Zinal. I came to learn of his plans. Alexander Seiler MATTERHORN 2015 Newsletter The Start of a Campaign he village of Zinal mountaineering challenges perches on a high that remain. ledge, surrounded Post 2 — Friday June 16th 1865 T from Zinal by impressive, unclimbed The role of the mountain peaks. Edward Whymper guide is changing The Start of a Campaign arrived here yesterday. While these peasants were first His meticulous mind is of all mountain men who car- occupied planning routes ried our equipment and pro- and developing strategy to visions, cut steps through ice 150 Years Ago — find the most effective, the and snow and deployed their most elegant, climbs across mountain craft to the service First Ascent of the the Alps. I feel he has the of our expeditions, some are Matterhorn skills and has the energy to now starting to excel as climb- confront some of the biggest ers in their own right. These are It is Summer 1865… …and how many intrepid climbers, witness un climbed Alpine their achievements and post peaks will have been back my reports. Many of the conquered by the time summits of Europe have been the cool damp air conquered over the last fifty of Autumn returns? years, those left must rank as among the most challenging. Mountaineers, many of them Grandes Jorasses, Aiguille British, are planning their Verte, Matterhorn – who will routes and engaging their be the first to set foot on your favourite local guides to assist. proud peaks? So I, whose scribblings usually cover London society events and gossip, have packed my notebooks and pens with my climbing ropes and nailed boots. I will follow those Letter from Croz to Whymper POST 2 — FRIDAY JUNE 16TH 1865 — from Zinal Whymper working closely with Italian guide Christian Almer Jean-Antoine from Grindelwald Carrel Mr Whymper is deeply disappointed. the men whose mountaineer- ing skills and their will to climb outmatch those of many of their peers. Michel Croz from Chamonix is one of those men. So Mr Whymper delighted to Their intention be in the company of Croz but is to continue is deeply disappointed not to Zinal, he spotted in the hotel to Zermatt. have his services for the whole Guest Book an entry made by summer. He regrets having Mr Adolphus Moore, celebrat- made so nebulous an arrange- ing a first ascent of the Grand They left early, shortly after ment with the guide last year, a Cornier, with his guide – Franz 2 am, this morning. I look few snatched words when they Biner! Well, Mr Whymper forward to telling you the result parted at Visp. It is not to Croz’ turned in askance to the man. of their attempt. Their intention discredit that he accepted a But Biner shook his head – is to continue to Zermatt, by firmer offer employment by Mr some new and perilous route. John Birkbeck from Yorkshire “Sorry Herr, we thought we Then, I am sure, Mr Whymper which begins on the 27th of this had reached the top but now will be looking towards the month. I am sure it was only a point Matterhorn. Good luck to along the way.” them! As well as Croz, Mr Whymper has engaged two other guides who must be at the peak of the www.matterhorn2015.ch profession, Christian Almer Experience the 1st from Grindelwald and Franz Ascent of the Biner from Zermatt. With so Matterhorn “live” on strong a team, I have a suspi- the web. cion that some of the more stubborn mountains will be Imprint forced to shake off their cloaks Contact of invincibility and surrender. [email protected] www.matterhorn2015.ch Next on Mr Whymper’s Copyright 4iS Four Eyes Ltd. list is the unclimbed Dufourstrasse 118 Grand Cornier. Postfach 1446 9001 St. Gallen Or has that peak already suc- Chief Editor cumbed? It’s not entirely clear. Wind eaten ridge of Sara Randell When Mr Whymper reached Grand Cornier Editorial Advisors Dr. Hermann Biner Matthias Taugwalder Stephen Venables Front page: Whymper‘s drawing German translation of climbers and guides Nathalie Steindl outside Hotel Monte Daniela Rodriguez-Bonelli Rosa, Zermatt Michel Croz Design from Chamonix Part of the www.plus-gestaltung.com northern ridge of the Grand Cornier Supported by.
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