American wines vs. European: a primer

by David C. Ludwig

While California produces about 75 percent of all the wine annually con- sumed in this country, most Americans know more about French, German, and Italian wines than those produced here. The reason for this phenomenon may be that the word domestic on any product carries a somewhat negative connotation; more likely, however, this situation exists because in a sense California's wine industry is less than 40 years old. Now it is certainly true that Fran- ciscan monks were planting grapes in California over 200 years ago, and it is also true that many immigrant Euro- pean vignerons established vineyards and experimented with various grape types in California throughout the 19th and the early years of the 20th cen- tury. Unfortunately, the of the 1920's forced the closing of all but a handful of California wineries and those who were able to remain open were forced to switch to the making of sacramental wines or the production of thick skinned grapes of the table and raisin variety to be used for home winemaking, which was still legal. Although prohibition was repealed many years ago, the legacy of that period still haunts the wine industry in this country; for example, fully 60 Wines from California vineyards such as Los Hermanos offer percent of the wine presently some of the best bargains in the world. produced in California is still made from table variety grapes. Progress is being made,.however, brought 100,000 vine cuttings from according to the way they are and through the efforts of such men as Europe to California and published marketed: generic wines, labeled with Agoston Harasthy (who in the 1850's the results of his experiments on famous European place-names, and them) and the research conducted at varietal wines, labels with the name the University of California on the of the particular grape from which Constant readers of GOLF BUSINESS will suitability of sites for the planting of each wine is primarily made. be familiar with David Ludwig's earlier various grape types, California now articles explaining how knowledgable Generic names have been used produces some outstanding wines. promotion and sale of wine can increase almost from the beginning of Califor- golf clubs' foodservice/bar profits. He is nia winemaking to suggest, broadly, Wine Master, Wine Club of Labels can lie the kind of wine contained in the bot- America, and conducts many wine tastings Table wines from California may be tle. The most familiar generic names and lectures in the east. grouped into two general categories, for red wines are Burgundy, Claret, Grapes grown among the lakes of New York State produce a different flavor from those of California.

the quality of the former with the high productivity of the latter. The wines it produces, while agreeable, lack the style of the . — this grape, used to make the great wines of the Cote d'Or, is generally considered less complex, less fine, and in general, less similar to the Burgundy original than is the Cabernet Sauvignon to red Bordeaux. Red Pinot — is not a true Pinot but rather the Pinot St. Georges, and its wines are considerably less fine. and Chianti; and for white wines north coast counties around San Fran- — one of the most Chablis, Sauterne(s), and Rhine wine. cisco Bay, and this area produces less widely planted of all the wine grapes These wines have only the vaguest than 10% of California's wine harvest. in California. While of European resemblance, if any, to the wines that Even within this area, despite exten- origin, it has never been traced back actually come from these specific sive new plantings of these varietals, to a specific European wine district. places in Europe, and each producer they still account for less than half of While Zinfandel has become the darl- will decide for himself which charac- the crop. Because high-yield varieties ing of many "wine authorities," I find teristics each of his generic wines will grown elsewhere in California can it to be somewhat heavy and cloying, have. For example, a bottle of French produce four or five times as much especially when it has been aged in Sauternes will contain a sw«eet, wine per acre as these varietals and redwood. luscious made in a special because the best grapes are also the Napa Ganay — the grape used to way; yet a bottle of California most expensive, the finest varietal make the popular wines of southern Sauterne will often be dry, making the wines will never be cheap. Further- Burgundy and produces light, use of this generic name especially il- more, an important factor in the refreshing, if somewhat less complex, logical. It is not even unheard of for a quality of a varietal wine is the per- wines in California. winery to label identical wines as centage of the named grape being Gamany Beaujolais — not a true Chablis and Sauterne. used above the legal minimum. Since Gamay at all, but is now thought to be related to the Pinot Noir. The wines Even though this method of label- it is the specific character of each produced from this grape are not con- ing wines leaves much to be desired, it grape variety that distinguishes these sidered to be on par with those made is nevertheless at the level of generic wines and gives them their richness, from the true Gamay. wines that excellent values are to be depth of flavor, and so on, the extent Pinot — this varietal found among the many offerings of to which a Cabernet Sauvignon or produces the best of the California California. If you experiment with the Pinot Noir is diluted will have a tre- white wines and while this is the true many varieties on the market, you are mendous effect on its taste. Because Chardonnay of Burgundy (the word bound to find some brands that are the best California wines are Pinot has been dropped in Burgundy less expensive and more consistent in marketed by brands rather than by in- because recent studies have found quality than many imported wines. It dividual vineyard names, it is neces- that this grape is really not a true is interesting to note that many Cali- sary to compare the same varietal Pinot) it is unadvisable to make com- fornia generic wines are bottled with wine from several wineries to deter- parisons between the wines produced a small amount of sweetness in them, mine your preference. in California from this grape (or any which may or may not be to your The following lists well-known other for that matter) and those customers' tastes. California varietals in order that you might have some idea of what to ex- produced in, for example, Chassagne- Varietal wines have more recently pect when purchasing them: Montrachet or Meursault. come into their own and are slowly — the second classic Cabernet Sauvignon — the classic being adopted by many California grape used in white Burgundies is less grape of Bordeaux produces the best wineries. widely planted in California than the red wines of California. It is the well- These grape types imported from Chardonnay, but it still produces some aged examples of Cabernet Sauvignon the most famous wine districts of very good white wines. that have most impressed the experts Europe produce the best of the Cali- fohannisberg — the true with their quality. Unfortunately, fornia wines. These varietals include Riesling planted in the best vineyards production of the best examples of Cabnet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, Char- along the Rhine and Moselle. It is also this wine is limited and consequently donnay, , and so called, in California, the White Riesl- you should expect to pay over $20.00 a forth, and a given wine must contain a ing. A Johannisberg Riesling has much bottle for this truly fine wine. minimum of 51 percent of a particular of the flavor and fruit for which this varietal for its name to appear on the Ruby Cabernet — a cross between grape is noted, and the wine is often a label. the Cabernet Sauvignon and the bit mellow in taste. Varietals flourish best in the cool Carignane that attempts to combine Riesling — on a "The French especially make a great to-do over the similarities, or lack of them, between one year and another . .

label usually refers to a wine made vintages. As you probably know, the the name of the winery and the grape from the Sylvaner and is less flowery, French especially make a great to-do used. but often delightful in its own way. over the similarities or lack of Made and bottled, when used on a Grey Riesling — not a true Riesling similarities between one year and California wine label, means only that at all, but the Chauce Gris, and often another, while in California little, if 10 percent of the wine was produced produces a wine of indifferent any, attention is paid to a wine's par- by the winery itself. Bottled by in- quality. ticular vintage. This lack of attention dicates that all the wine may have Emerald Riesling — a cross of the given to California vintages, even for been bought in bulk from other true Riesling and the Muscadelle and the best of varietals, is based on sources. The phrase estate-bottled on produces a mild, very agreeable wine. several factors. For one thing, a Cali- a California wine indicates, as it does — the grape used to fornia wine marketed with a vintage in Bordeaux and Burgundy, that all of make Vouvary in the Loire Valley. year must be made up entirely from the wine was produced by the winery This wine can be more or less dry ac- grapes grown that year. Many from grapes grown on its own cording to the style adopted by the in- wineries would prefer to maintain property. This designation is rare, dividual wineries. Chenin Blanc is their flexibility by blending wines of however, because it is traditional for also marketed as White Pinot, which is different years to produce a consistent even the best wineries to buy grapes obviously misleading. The name wine for the public, rather than draw- from other growers. probably originated as a corruption of ing the consumer's attention to factors the Chenin Blanc's local name along that will only complicate his wine Why N.Y. wines are different the Loire-Pineau de la Loire. selection. This attitude is certainly While California is by far the largest Savignon Blanc — the famous shared by wholesalers and retailers producer of domestic wines, all the grape used in such different French for whom vintages necessarily create grape vines presently growing there wines as Graves and Pouilly-Fume, problems with inventory and con- had to be brought in from other states and in California too its excellent tinuity. or countries. When the earliest set- wines can be either dry or sweet. Nor- A further problem in the mar- tlers came to New York State, they mally relative mellowness of the wine keting of vintage California wines is found a variety of native grapes grow- will be noted on the label. that the best of these red wines ing wild throughout the countryside. Semillon — the grape that gives naturally need the same bottle aging Encouraged by this profusion of vines, Sauternes its special character when as do the best wines of Europe. The a number of colonists imported attacked by the noble rot. The dry California winemaker faced until cuttings of the European vinifera climate of California prevents this fairly recently, however, a problem grape varieties during the 17th and beneficial fungus from forming that his European counterpart did not 18th centuries and tried to establish naturally on grapes and consequently share: if he decided to hold back his vineyards on the east coast. Invariably Semillon is often marketed as a dry best wines until they had achieved a these vines died, and we now know wine. certain amount of age, they were sub- that this was the result of the Rose — the best-known ject to an annual California floor tax. phylloxera fungus and temperature varietal rose and is made from the Despite these problems, there is an extremes to which vinifera vines were same grape that predominates in the increasing tendency on the part of not resistant. Tavel district of France. California wineries to market wines In the 19th century successful that state the year of the vintage. Some experiments were carried out with ex- Business considerations affect wines of them are actually putting a part of isting native varieties, notably the One of the major problems that has their annual production aside to be , and native American wines faced those California wine-makers marketed only after these wines have began to be produced commercially. who are trying to produce the best achieved a certain maturity. These native grapes, made up for the varietal wines from the soil to which Apart from the year of the vintage most part of , impart a each variety is best suited is that the and the varietal name, there are other pungent aroma and distinctive flavor nature of commercial distribution specific indications on a California to the wines made from them. This forces each winery to market a com- wine label that are useful to know. may make their taste seem strange to plete line of wines. The best vine- The geographical origin of a Califor- those who are accustomed to Califor- yards in Europe, however, produce nia wine can be stated on its label only nia or European wines. This flavor is only a single wine. What this means is if 75 percent or more of the grapes described as foxy, and its tangy and that each winery in California is not come from the named district, such as grapey character is most typically ex- permitted to concentrate on making Napa. This is a useful guide to emplified by the Concord, which is those wines that it can do best. One selecting some of the best varietals also the most widely planted grape in result of this sorry situation has been from the north coast counties, but you New York. the appearance in the past few years should also realize that some of the The New York vineyards, then, are of small wineries that specialize in most respected winemakers have planted for the most part with native just a few varietal wines in limited acreage in more than one district. American grapes that are not grown in quantities. Consequently, they can make excel- any other wine district in the world, Another area where California and lent wines without being legally and its wines should be approached European vineyards differ concerns entitled to state anything more than with this fact in mind. In order to Grapes harvested in New York vineyards are mostly varieties native to American soil.

grapes. It is, therefore, not unfair to planting these hybrids along with say that the enophile who normally vinifera and native American grape imbibes European or California wines varieties. Some of them are: Oregon, is in for a bit of a surprise upon tasting Washington, Missouri, Ohio, Mary- New York State Chablis or Burgundy. land, Virginia, Pennsylvania, and Nevertheless, many people who enjoy New Jersey. the distinct flavor of certain table As more and more of these hybrids grapes find these wines very pleasant will be appearing on the market, it indeed. should be useful for you to have some A number of New York State wines idea of their names, encapagements, are made entirely from specific native and characteristics. The following grapes and are so labeled. The most represent the most widely planted of common of these varietals are: these new varieties: diminish this labrusca character, New Delaware, , Vergennes, York wineries are permitted to add a Isabella, Diamond, Missouri Riesling -Red — the driest of sugar-and-water solution to their (not to be confused with the Riesling hybrids. Baco Noir is quite full and wines during fermentation to reduce of Germany), and Catawba. While all robust in character, with a deep red the natural acidity of native grapes, these wines naturally have the typical color somewhat reminiscent of and the finished wine may be blended labrusca taste, their precise labeling Burgundy. This wine will continue to with as much as 25 percent of wines makes it easier for the consumer to acquire complexity and mellowness from California. choose among them. with bottle age. By far the biggest American wine- Some very worthwhile work has Noir-Red (80 percent producing area outside of California is been done by Dr. Konstantin Frank, Chancellor Noir, 1 percent Marechal the Finger Lakes district of New York who has demonstrated that vinifera Foch, 4 percent Chelois Noir, 7 per- State, about 300 miles northwest of grapes can be successfully grown in cent Banco Noir, 2 percent Cascade New York City. The region gets its the climate of New York State. Pinot Noir, 3 percent Rougeon Noir) — a name from several elongated lakes Noir, Riesling, Chardonnay, and smooth full-bodied wine with a rich that resemble an imprint made by the Gamay are some of the wines he has finish. When aged in small oak casks, fingers of a giant hand. Although the made, and the best of the white wines this wine acquires a bouquet many region is subject to great extremes of can be very good. As a result of his find comparable to a Cabernet temperature, these lakes exert a pioneering work, other wineries have Sauvignon. moderating influence on the climate also begun experimentation with Chelois-Noir-Red (55 percent of the vineyards situated along their viniferas. Chelois Noir, 22 percent Cascade sloping shores. In recent years, however, the most Noir, 17 percent Colobel Noir, 6 per- The first vines were planted in this important trend in the Finger Lakes cent Marechal Foch) — a vinous, ex- district in 1829 in a clergyman's gar- vineyards has been toward the tremely dry that will benefit den in Hammondsport at the southern French-American hybrids. These are noticeably from several years of bottle tip of Lake Keuka. A number of com- crossings that combine the hardiness age. mercial wineries were established in of the American vines — their -White (100 percent the decades that followed, but four resistance to disease and extreme cold Seyval Blanc) — recognized as the wineries established in the second — with the more delicate flavor of the most successful of the French half of the 19th century now dominate vinifera grape. varietals grown in the U.S. The Seyval the production in the Finger Lakes dis- These hybrids were originally Blanc produces very dry, clean, and trict: Taylor, Great Western (Pleasant named after the men who developed fresh wines with a soft lingering taste. Valley), Gold Seal, and Widmer. them, along with the serial number of Some find this wine comparable to a Although the Finger Lakes account for the original seedling — such as Baco 1, Chardonnay. less than 10 percent of the table wines Seibel 5279, and Seyve-Villard 5276. Aurora Blanc-White (100 percent consumed in this country, New York These names and numbers, of course, Aurora Blanc) — a light, fragrant wine State fortified wines and sparkling lacked sufficient cachet to be used by with a semi-sweet taste and a slightly wines account for a considerably themselves as varietal wine titles, so drier aftertaste. bigger share of the American market. they are being adopted for use on Please remember that each As is the case in California, the wine labels. Thus, Baco 1 is labeled as producer of these wines will vary the least expensive New York State wines Baco Noir; Seibel 5279 is now called encapagements to suit his own taste. are marketed under generic place- Aurora, and Seibel 10878 is (happily) It might be a good idea to ask your names of European origin: Rhine styled Chelois. While some of these wholesaler what wines are available wine, Chablis, Claret, etc. Because wines in which the labrusca flavor is from your own or neighboring states. labrusca grapes are used to make up considerably diminished are blended You could then schedule a wine these wines, they do not bear any with native wines, certain bottlings tasting of each of these wines from resemblance whatsoever to their are now totally composed of wines various producers to determine which French and German counterparts all from French-American hybrids. your members or customers would of which are made from vinifera Various other states have taken to prefer. •