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THAT SPECIAL SOMETHING If Ludwig Reiter only consisted of the finest materials and traditional craftsmanship, the shoes would simply be good shoes. But there is more to our product: that special something. Through close relationships with artist friends Tex Rubinowitz, Mariella Habsburg, Percy Thonet, Daniela Zacherl, Jakob Spahn and DJ bettyfly, who come from music, painting, illustrating, acting or design backgrounds, ideas and inspirations for our own work are ignited. We hope you like the result! ANNA AND MAGDALENA REITER 3 STANDING OVATION STANDING OVATION BEST SUPPORTING ACTRESS For Viennese actress Daniela Zacherl, Café Goldegg is somewhat an extension of her living room. It is here that she sits and studies her scripts for her upcoming movies or meets up with friends - some long nights have been spent together in this café. Whichever role the actress takes on though, the most important sidekick is the shoe. Ankle boots such as these always make the cut, matching a comfortable off-duty outfit just as much as a relaxed pair of jeans or an elegant cocktail dress. Aaaaand cut! ARIZONA BOOT Tobacco, Suede Spanish Last S.877-VTT.DES-3-W4 4 autumn / winter 2018 autumn / winter 2018 5 STANDING OVATION STANDING OVATION MARY VETSERA In 1889, the politically non-conformist, emotionally unstable Crown Prince Rudolf shot his seventeen year old mistress Mary Vetsera and himself in Mayerling, causing one of the monarchy’s greatest scandals. The Mary Vetsera laceboots, named after her, are a modern classic inspired by a lady´s shoe that was very popular at the end of the 19th century. SIESTA BAG MARY VETSERA MAYFAIR Anthracite, Suede N. T746-VSA Onyx, Corrected Calf Anthracite, Suede Viennese Last Spanish Last S.88-RCS.DWF-2-ES S.869-VSA.DES-3-LI CHELSEA BOOT ALLEGRO CHELSEA BOOT Umbra, Suede Black, Vintage Pullup Leather Spanish Last Spanish Last S.867-VMU.DES-3-LI S.871-RPS.DES-3-W4 6 autumn / winter 2018 autumn / winter 2018 7 A STAGE FOR A SHOE DON’T YOU LOVE A CLASSIC? Basso continuo is the fundament and defines the harmonic structure in classical music. In Jazz, Pop, and Rock music, the bass often plays an additionally significant role in maintaining the rhythm. Due to his numerous performances in chamber-music and with various orchestras, the Berlin-born Jakob Spahn – Cellist a bassist at heart – knows just how the right shoes play an important base for the success of a performance. In his case, we’d recommend nothing less than a timeless classic, such as the Derby. DERBY Black, Boxcalf Salzburg Last R.20-BCS.RF-1 autumn / winter 2018 9 A STAGE FOR A SHOE A STAGE FOR A SHOE SALON-ESCARPIN Black, Velvet Gold Embroidery Tuscan Last S.103-TSSE-CS APRÈS SKI ERZHERZOG JOHANN Black, Suede Black, Patent Leather Tuscan Last, Shearling lined Tuscan Last S.429-VMS.TGS-ES S.30-LS FRANZ VON WOLSCHAN Together with Carl Ritter von Ghega, the railway engineer Franz von Wolschan helped to build the spectacular Semmering railway line. In spite of his progressive spirit he valued the old-fashioned. In the evenings, he would enjoy sitting in his armchair with a glass of Port and a good cigar in hand, reminiscing over his childhood in Moravia or contemplate about the future. Though he would hardly have guessed that more than 150 years later, his great-great-great-grand- daughters Anna and Magdalena Reiter would choose to embellish a Salon-Escarpin with the Wolschan Family crest, in homage to the elegant OXFORD THERESIANER lifestyle of the railway construction director. Black, Boxcalf Black, Bookbinder Calf Spanish Last Salzburg Last R.15-BCS.EF-3 R.14-BBS.RF-1-W FRANZ VON WOLSCHAN (1831-1869) WOLSCHAN (1831-1869) FRANZ VON 10 autumn / winter 2018 autumn / winter 2018 11 HEAD TO TOE HEAD TO TOE MAY’S BREEZE AND AUTUMN’S STORMS “May’s Breeze”, or “Mailuefterl” was the first computer in Europe, functioning on transistors alone. Built at the Technical University Vienna in 1958, it calculated a ten-digit prime-number within sixty-six minutes. That, a Ludwig Reiter shoe cannot do. It also has less stitches than the May´s Breeze’s 1000,000 solders. Nevertheless, to the delight of its wearers, such as the illustrator and writer Tex Rubinowitz, the shoe defies all autumn storms and power cuts. GRINZINGER Marron Suede T.535-VPM-D 12 autumn / winter 2018 autumn / winter 2018 13 HEAD TO TOE HEAD TO TOE * Very few people know that in the year 1904, Ludwig Reiter developed a shoe-telephone. However, the time was not yet ripe for this invention. * CHELSEA BOOT CUMBERLAND GRINZINGER Dark Brown, Suede Marron Black, Suede Tuscan Last Suede Shearling lined R.61-VMD.TGS-2-KS T.529-VPM T.535-VMS-S-PY Caricature: Tex Rubinowitz ADRIATIC TOURING BOOT Black, Suede Marron, Suede Shearling lined Shearling lined T.557-VMS-PY.S S.228-VPM-PY.LN-2H-ES 14 autumn / winter 2018 autumn / winter 2018 15 ART & CRAFTSMANSHIP ART & CRAFTSMANSHIP PAINTINGS WITH LEGS Her pieces are called Outer Space, Lentil Dish, or Sea Creatures. The Viennese artist Mariella Habsburg paints tables; changing their style, character and charisma, thus combi- ning the quotidian with art, coating it in beauty. Since Mariella’s tables are “Paintings with Legs”, it is only right that the feet creating them wear shoes which in themselves epitomise the art of everyday shoemaking too. 16 autumn / winter 2018 autumn / winter 2018 17 ART & CRAFTSMANSHIP ART & CRAFTSMANSHIP MARINA ARLBERGERIN DACHSTEIN Marron Onyx, Corrected Calf Boxcalf Shearling lined Marron, Russia Leather Shearling lined N.T755-NRM S.883-RCS-PY.Q-DS S.8783-D-VD SHEARLING When it comes to shoes, everyone looks at appearances, hardly anyone mentions their inner values. We think otherwise: thanks to nature’s incredible invention called “shearling”, feet in Ludwig Reiter shoes remain warm even when exposed to sub-zero temperatures. Forget about downloading a shoe- heating App. SENNERIN TOURING DACHSTEIN Black, Russia Leather Black, Suede Black, Russia Leather Shearling lined Shearling lined Shearling lined S.895-S-VS.Q-ES S.828-VMS-PY.DM-2K-DS S.8783-S-VS 18 autumn / winter 2018 autumn / winter 2018 19 VINYL & LEATHER VINYL & LEATHER THAT OLD BLACK MAGIC One can download music digitally from the Cloud. But, one can also rummage in old record stores for analogues and in doing so fall for the Vinyl’s shine – as did DJ Bettina Koll alias bettyfly at Teuchtler’s in Vienna. With its fascinating shine, the Vinyl shares a joint attribute with a long play record of the shoe industry: the timeless, elegant Après Ski, made in black corrected calf leather. Unlike many records though, no bootleg copies of Ludwig Reiter’s Old Black Magic exist. The Après Ski is always an original. And completely analogue. APRÈS SKI COLPORTAGE Onyx, Corrected Calf Black Shearling lined Pony Skin S.829-RCS-PY.DW-ES N.T693-CCS 20 autumn / winter 2018 autumn / winter 2018 21 VINYL & LEATHER VINYL & LEATHER APRÈS SKI Between 1900 and 1925, the custom, amongst the guests of the luxury hotels in Chamonix, St. Moritz and Megève, became to meet one another for dinner after skiing, dressed in a smart-casual, yet elegant style. This ritual of “après ski” was soon to be taken on also by other ski-resorts. Our shoe model of that namesake, with its charming retro style, latches APRÈS SKI COLPORTAGE MARONIBRATERIN on to that point in time. Stormy Grey, Suede Burgundy Burgundy, Black Shearling lined Pony Skin Pony Skin, Russia Leather, Shearling lined S.829-VMA.U-ES N.T693-CCW S.892-S-CCW-G.Q-ES MARONIBRATERIN GARDENER Black, Onyx Black, Patent Leather Pony Skin, Corrected Calf, Shearling lined Leather & Neoprene lined S.892-RCS-CCS-G.Q-ES T.549-XLS.I 22 autumn / winter 2018 autumn / winter 2018 23 SNOW TRACKS SNOW TRACKS BENT OR SEWN? In both cases “legs” play a supporting role. The chairs of one traditional Viennese business, have a lot in common with shoes of the other. Both are long-lasting, sustain- able, and handmade products of the highest quality with a timeless design. Percy Thonet, great-grandson of Michael Thonet - the founder and inventor of the famous Bugwood Chair N.14 - keeps this in mind when marching through the wintry woods in his Maronibraters to pick the right trees for his chairs. SENNER MARONIBRATER Anthracite, Black Anthracite, Black Felt & Russia Leather, Shearling lined Felt & Russia Leather, Shearling lined S.495-S-ZWA S.592-S-ZA.K-GR 24 autumn / winter 2018 autumn / winter 2018 25 SNOW TRACKS SNOW TRACKS RUSSIA LEATHER The Maronibrater and other Ludwig Reiter boots are made from robust, dense Russia leather: full grain, vegetable tanned calf leather, and treated with Birch tar in the Russian MARONIBRATER tradition. Since the 18th century, Russia leather has also been produced in Central Europe, Light grey, dark brown especially to make boots and working-shoes Felt & Russia Leather in the Alpine region. shearling lined S.592-D-ZT DACHSTEIN HUSAREN BOOTS Mocca Mocca, Russia Leather Scotch Grain, Hungarian Last Kitzmantel Last S.1784-SGD S.279-UBD.KTS-2Z-GJ ARLBERGER HUBERTUS Dark Brown Black, Vintage Pullup Leather Russia Leather, Shearling lined Hungarian Last S.583-D S.475-RPS.AF-2K-ES 26 autumn / winter 2018 autumn / winter 2018 27 SNOW KING The many good reasonseasons which speak for the MMaronibrater Elegant piping on Bootstraps made of durable the bootleg and resistant cotton twill Handcrafted in more than 200 steps Adjustable strap against intruding snow Warm shearling lining throughout Water repellent woollen felt Handmade in Vienna Last with a marvellous fit Uppers made from water-resistant and comfortable support Russia leather Goodyear-welted for stability, longevity and damp defense Non-chafing goat skin lined heel Insoles of warm, Anti-slip sole with a shearling lining non-stick snow profile 28 29 MINDGAMES MINDGAMES A WORD PLEASE, I LAST WORE SHOES BY A DIFFERENT MANUFACTURER ..
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  • Ethical Consumers' Awareness of Vegan Materials

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    sustainability Article Ethical Consumers’ Awareness of Vegan Materials: Focused on Fake Fur and Fake Leather Yeong-Hyeon Choi 1 and Kyu-Hye Lee 2,* 1 Department of Clothing and Textiles, Hanyang University, Seoul 04763, Korea; [email protected]figure 2 Human-Tech Convergence Program, Department of Clothing and Textiles, Hanyang University, Seoul 04763, Korea * Correspondence: [email protected]; Tel.: +82-2-2220-1191 Abstract: With an increase in ethical awareness, people have begun to criticize the unethical issues associated with the use of animal materials. This study focused on the transition of global consumers’ awareness toward vegan materials and the relationship between the interest in ethical subjects such as animals, the environment, and vegan materials. For this purpose, consumers’ posts about fur/fake fur and leather/fake leather uploaded on Google and Twitter from 2008 to 2019 were utilized, and the Term Frequency-Inverse Document Frequency (Tf-idf ) value was extracted using Python 3.7. Furthermore, the worldwide Google keyword search volume of each word was analyzed using Smart PLS 3.0 to investigate global consumers’ awareness. First, with time, consumers began relating animal materials such as fur and leather to topics such as animal rights, animal abuse, and animal protection. Second, as interest in “animal welfare” increased, interest in “fake fur” also rose, and as interest in “cruelty free” increased, interest in “fake fur”, “vegan fur”, and “vegan leather” also increased. Third, as consumers’ interest in the “environment” increased, interest in vegan materials such as “fake fur” and “fake leather” decreased. However, as interest in “eco” increased, interest in “vegan leather” also augmented.