Paul Clammer, Tamara Sheward ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Fiji Vanua Levu & Taveuni (p150) Mamanuca & Yasawa Groups (p113) Ovalau & the Nadi, Suva & Lomaiviti Group Viti Levu (p138) (p52) Kadavu, Lau & Moala Groups (p180) THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Paul Clammer, Tamara Sheward PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Fiji . 4 NADI, SUVA Toberua . 102 Fiji Map . 6 & VITI LEVU . 52 Korovou to Rakiraki via Kings Road . 102 Fiji’s Top 15 . 8 Nadi & the West . 56 Korovou to Rakiraki Need to Know . 16 Nadi . 56 via the East Coast . 103 Denarau Island . 65 If You Like… . 18 Rakiraki & Around . 104 North of Nadi . 69 Month by Month . 21 Nananu-i-Ra . 106 Foothills of the Lautoka . 107 Itineraries . 24 Sabeto Mountains . 69 Lautoka to Koroyanitu National Which Island? . 28 Rakiraki . 110 Heritage Park . 69 Diving . 36 Ba . 110 Viseisei & Vuda Point . 70 Travel with Children . 41 Nadarivatu, Navai South of Nadi . 71 & Koro-Ni-O . 110 Regions at a Glance . 45 Naisali . 71 Nausori Highlands . 111 Celebrate Fiji . 47 Uciwai Landing . 71 Navala . 111 Momi Bay . 72 Bukuya . 112 Natadola Beach . 72 Tavua . 112 Yanuca & Around . 74 Coral Coast . 74 MATTEO COLOMBO/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES COLOMBO/GETTY MATTEO MAMANUCA & Sigatoka . 75 YASAWA GROUPS . 113 Korotogo & the Sunset Strip . 78 Mamanuca Group . 114 Korolevu & Around . .. 80 South Sea Island . 118 Pacific Harbour . 82 Bounty Island . 118 Around Pacific Harbour . 86 Beachcomber Island . 119 Navua & the Namosi Treasure Island . 119 Highlands . 86 Vomo . 120 Offshore Islands . 86 Navini . 120 Beqa . 86 Mana . 120 ISLAND IN THE MAMANUCA GROUP (P114) Yanuca . 87 Matamanoa . 122 Suva . 88 Modriki . 122 CULTURA RM EXCLUSIVE/STUART WESTMORLAND/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES WESTMORLAND/GETTY EXCLUSIVE/STUART RM CULTURA Eastern Viti Levu . 101 Tokoriki . 122 Nausori & the Castaway Island . 123 Rewa Delta . 101 Wadigi . 123 Nasilai Village & Naililili Malolo . 123 Catholic Mission . 101 Malolo Lailai . 124 Bau . 102 Namotu & Tavarua . 125 A WARM WELCOME AWAITS VISITORS (P215) Contents UNDERSTAND Yasawa Group . 125 North & East Fiji Today . 194 of Savusavu . 161 Kuata & Wayasewa . 128 History . 196 Waya & Around . 130 Drekeniwai to Dakuniba . 161 Environment . 206 Naviti & Around . 131 Offshore Islands . 162 Culture . 211 Matacawalevu & Yaqeta . 133 Namenalala . 162 Village Life . 219 Tavewa . 133 Kioa . 162 Nanuya Lailai . 135 Rabi . 163 Nacula . 135 Labasa . 163 Nanuya Levu Around Labasa . 165 (Turtle Island) . 136 Nabouwalu & Around . 167 Sawa-i-Lau . 137 Wainunu Bay . 167 Yasawa . 137 Taveuni . 167 Waiyevo, Somosomo OVALAU & THE & Around . 170 LOMAIVITI GROUP . 138 Southern Taveuni . 173 SURVIVAL Matei . 174 Ovalau . 140 GUIDE Eastern Taveuni . 177 Levuka . 140 Bouma National Lovoni . 146 Heritage Park . 177 Directory A–Z . 222 Rukuruku . 146 Offshore Islands . 178 Transport . 229 Arovudi & Silana . 147 Qamea . 178 Language . 235 Other Lomaiviti Matagi . 179 Islands . 147 Index . 244 Laucala . 179 Naigani . 147 Map Legend . 255 Yanuca Lailai . 148 Moturiki . 148 KADAVU, LAU & Caqalai . 148 MOALA GROUPS . 180 Leleuvia . 148 Kadavu Group . 182 Wakaya . 149 Lau & Moala Groups . 187 Koro . 149 Lau Group . 189 Vanua Balavu . 189 Other Northern VANUA LEVU & Lau Islands . 190 SPECIAL TAVEUNI . 150 Lakeba . 190 FEATURES Vanua Levu . 151 Other Southern Savusavu & Around . 154 Lau Islands . 191 Island Guide . 28 Moala Group . 191 Diving . 36 Travel with Children . 41 Celebrate Fiji . 47 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 24 Itineraries •# Sawa-i- Blue Lau Cave Lagoon É •# f# É YASAWA f# GROUP Nanuya Balavu•#•#Drawaqa É •#Waya S O U T H •#Wayasewa f# PA C I F I C O C E A N É Beachcomber MAMANUCA •# Modriki GROUP Island É •# •# É Mana f# É •# Port Denarau VITI LEVU 1-2 WEEKS The Eclectic Island Hop Though it’s easy to imagine the Mamanuca and Yasawa Groups as one long string of same-same paradisiacal islands, this hugely popular region is quite diverse. Board the Yasawa Flyer at Port Denarau and head first to Beachcomber Island; popular with party people (and increasingly, families), this is a great place to pick up tips from fellow travellers and to soak up the first of your island rays. Head onwards to Mana for a sharky scuba dive at the nearby Supermarket and a day trip aboard a schooner to Modriki, where Cast Away was shot. Say goodbye to the resorts of the Mamanucas and hello to a genuine look at local life, Yasawas-style, with a homestay at Waya island. After a couple of days of village food – and a steep host-led hike up a volcanic plug on neigh- bouring Wayasewa – you’re now ready to keep up with the manta rays that ply the passage between Nanuya Balavu and Drawaqa islands; resorts in the area run snorkel trips here in season. Further north, give yourself a well-earned rest with a frolic in the Blue Lagoon before hopping a water taxi to the magnificent and mysterious Sawa-i- Lau Cave. This trip is best undertaken with a Bula Pass (from five to 21 days) for the Yasawa Flyer. See page 127 for more information. 25 VANUA LEVU •# YASAWA GROUP PLAN YOUR TRIP f# •# É Nananu-i-Ra Viseisei É South Lautoka Sea •# MAMANUCA •# Stoney Creek IT GROUP Island •# •# •# I f# •# Resort NERAR É f# S O U T H •# É Sabeto Hot Springs Denarau PA C I F I C VITI LEVU I O C E A N ES É Kula Eco Sigatoka •#•# Park Sand Dunes Coral •# É •# Pacific Coast Harbour 10 DAYS Family Fling Slow down and get into the slow swing of Fiji time with a relaxing couple of days at a family-friendly resort on Denarau Island. It’s not all flopping by the pool (though it can be if you desire), with a nearby water park, family cooking classes and minigolf to keep everyone on the go. Head out of town – you can stay at the wonderful Stoney Creek Resort or take day trips from Denarau – and enjoy a bout of literal mud-slinging at Sabeto Hot Springs, whizzing over waterfalls on a zipline and bouncing through the forest on a buggy tour. Nearby, the friendly village of Viseisei offers homestays (though you can also just visit); the local kids love making new playmates. But a boat ride away, the Mamanuca and Yasawa Groups seem purpose-built for families, with easy snorkelling, water sports and safe swimming on offer. Some popular family destinations include Treasure, Castaway, Malolo Lailai and Mana island resorts. If you’re on limited time, a day trip out to South Sea Island (30 minutes from Denarau) is a must-do. Back on Viti Levu, options abound. If you can’t get enough of island escapades, head north, making a brief stop in Lautoka to watch the sugar trains (in season) clunking through town, then carry on to Nananu-i-Ra, a low-key island with great kayaking, windsurfing and oodles of friendly fish. Otherwise, head south to the Coral Coast for a ride on its scenic railway, a trek to the top of the Sigatoka Sand Dunes and awesome animal encounters at Kula Eco Park. Nearby Pacific Harbour offers all manners of adventurous outings, from horse-riding to fishing. 26 VANUA LEVU Buca Bay •# PLAN YOUR TRIP Savusavu É É •# •# f# Naweni Nasonisoni É •#Taveuni Passage•# É #– MAMANUCA IT GROUP É I •# NERAR f# É S O U T H É •# Nausori É Nadi •# É Highlands PA C I F I C VITI LEVU O C E A N I ES É Pacific É Harbour #_SUVA •# f# •# Frigate •# Beqa Passage Lagoon 2 WEEKS Thrills & Spills Hit the ground running – or riding – in Nadi by joining a fast-paced downhill cycling tour of the nearby Nausori Highlands. The next day, take a 14,000ft leap over the spine-tingling scenery of the Mamanuca Group with a tandem skydive. Continue your island journey with a few days of surfing some of the country’s best breaks at Cloud- break, Restaurants and Desperations. Catch the Yasawa Flyer back to Nadi, but don’t wash the salt from your hair just yet; travel south to Pacific Harbour for an exhilarating shark dive at Beqa Lagoon, then hop a boat for more surfing, this time at the underrated Frigate Passage. For fresh- water thrills, head up to the nearby Navua River for rafting through deep canyons. Make your way to Suva and indulge in some wild nightlife before hopping a flight bound for Savusavu on Vanua Levu (landing at this tiny airport can be a spine-tingling experience in itself). From your base in this rollicking port town, it’s easy to access some superb dive sites, including an exhilarating, superfast drift dive through the narrow Nasonisoni Passage. Continue your underwater adventures at any of the remote dive resorts near Buca Bay. At Naweni, you’ll encounter the legendary ‘sacred prawns’ that respond to locals’ chants. Across the strait, Taveuni offers jungle kicks, including hur- tling down the Waitavala Water Slide and clambering across slick boulders at the Tavoro Waterfalls. 27 VANUA LEVU PLAN YOUR TRIP Koroyanitu •# National Heritage Park LAU É GROUP ÷# Ovalau •# É Nadi •# VITI LEVU É – # IT É Navua f# I River SUVA NERAR •# •# É f# #_ É É É Naihehe É S O U T H Cave É f# PA C I F I C É I •# f# O C E A N ES Vatulele É É # f# – MOALA GROUP •# Kadavu •# 3+ WEEKS Fiji Rambler From Nadi, head up and inland to the Koroyanitu National Heritage Park for a few days of slow-going hiking: you’ll need a guide, and your guide will need a machete! There are two small, friendly villages – Abaca and Navilawa – visitors are welcome to stay and take part in laid-back local life.