SLOVAKIA Key to Main Symbols S

Region colour codes sPecTAcULAR s LOVAKiA SPECTACULAR SLOVAKIA Key to main symbols S

lovakia t R  address  estimated time for touring the sight Bratislava Region (pages 26 – 59) Å phone P parking walking distance (for sites in Bratislava from 1 1 ref. number for sights from Bratislava Region Main Square; for sites in Košice from 1 1 Western Slovakia (pages 60 – 95) ref. number for sights from western Slovakia slovakia St Elizabeth’s Cathedral) 1 1 ref. number for sights from central Slovakia  driving from the relevant tourism hub 1 1 travel guide ref. number for sights from northern Slovakia Central Slovakia (pages 96 – 117) a opening hours throughout the year 1 1 ref. number for sights from eastern Slovakia R opening hours summer season 1 1 ref. number for sights part of relevant city av T opening hours outside summer season V a must-see sight Northern Slovakia (pages 118 – 165) Live your own story of Slovakia U religious service church E admission charge for adults Information and castle l Guid E ¯ live music Eastern Slovakia (pages 166 – 197) contact details for more manor house, mansion é than 450 tourist spots wheelchair access castle ruins ä restaurant cave 3D aerial drawings of å café, bar Top Slovak sights ski resort tRaVel GuiDe speCtaCulaR sloVaKia 7 major city centres e gift shop www.spectator.sk © 2014 The Rock, s.r.o.; address: The Rock, s.r.o. Lazaretská 12, 811 08 Bratislava, Slovakia. UNESCO site G museum publisher: Ján Pallo; editor-in-chief: Beata Balogová; editor: Benjamin Cunningham; Cover photo: Spiš Castle and the High Tatras 32 travel railway (Peter Baňas); layout: Peter Malatinec, Miroslav Čech, Ján Pallo Content advisor: Slovak Tourist Board (SACR); partners: Bratislava 17 maps of city  gallery Tourist Board, Bratislava Region Tourism, Slovnaft feature stories highway centres and major ® theatre authors and contributors: Beata Balogová, Nadia Beard, Tímea Becková, Benjamin Cunningham, Roman Cuprik, Michaela Džome- mountains u train stop (station) - sometimes also distance 1st-class road ková, Beata Fojtíková, Michaela Gedaiová, Miroslava Germanová, Kristína Hamárová, Jozef Hámorský, Lenka Hudáková, Monika 2nd-class road Kacejová, Kristína Krupčíková, Filip Lehotský, Jana Liptáková, Martin Majdák, Zuzana Matkovská, Karina Miartanová, Radka Minarecho- Pull-out map from the stop to the relevant sight is published vá, Peter Nagy, Lukáš Onderčanin, Ján Pallo, Jitka Parobeková, Michaela Pástorová, Ján Pestún, Martina Raabová, Lucia Rusnáková, v bus stop (station) - sometimes also distance 3rd-class road Lenka Sabová, Natália Semianová, Donald Stoll, Patricia Stoll, Howard Swains, Michaela Terenzani, James Thomson, of Slovakia More than Alica Tkáčová, Zuzana Vilikovská, Viktória Vincejová, Carmen Virágová from the stop to the relevant sight is published border crossing 1,000 photos road number photos: Peter Baňas, Nadia Beard, Tímea Becková, Tomáš Benedikovič, Miroslava Cibulková, Roman Cuprik, Yuri Dojc, Eva Dučaiová, public transport: stop or numbers - sometimes Dušan Dudík, Michaela Džomeková, Pavol Funtál, Michaela Gedaiová, Miroslava Germanová, Michal Glonek, Noro Halabuk, Kristína also distance from the stop to the relevant sight is golf Hamárová, Katarína Hudačinová, Lenka Hudáková, Peter Jánošdeák, Kristína Krupčíková, Gabriel Kuchta, Sanela Kurtek, Filip Lehotský, Suggested published water park Jana Liptáková, Manik, Zuzana Martinková, Zuzana Matkovská, Cyril Meňuš, Karina Miartanová, Roman Millan, Radka Minarechová, seven day Calendar Miriam Molnár, Peter Nagy, Lukáš Onderčanin, Ján Pallo, Jitka Parobeková, Chris Perkins, Jaroslav Pilát, Christian Prandl, Martina Q animals of events airport Raabová, Erik Rédli, Michal Rengevič, Amanda Rivkin, Lucia Rusnáková, Lenka Sabová, Martin Sárossy, Natália Semianová, Stanislava itinerary N cable car Smadišová, Martina Smolková, Peter Snadík, Tibor Somogyi, Jaroslav Stankovič, Donald Stoll, Patricia Stoll, Ján Svrček, Howard page references for sights described Swains, Vladimír Šimíček, Viera Šramková, Miro Švec, Emanuele Terenzani, James Thomson, Lukáš Varšík, Jana Vašašová, Viktória in greater detail elsewhere in the guide hiking Vincejová, Carmen Virágová, Gabriela Zigová; media: Korzár, SITA, SME, TASR  population spa photo permissions from companies and institutions: Abeland, Amade Château, AquaCity Poprad, Balónová fiesta, Black River Golf Drawings of 28 Selection of top i i information centre wine Resort, CBS Maľované mapy , Dubova Colonorum, EnjoyRacing, Ernest Zmeták Art Gallery Nové Zámky, Galéria mesta Bratislavy, historical monuments hotels and restaurants Galéria Jána Koniareka, Golf International, Golf Park Rajec, Gray Bear Golf Resort, Historické múzeum - Slovenské národné múzeum, ¤ events park, natural beauty Hubert, J&J Ostrožovič, Košice Gurmán Fest, Maratónsky klub Košice, Milosrdné sestry Svätého kríža, Múzeum Stará Ľubovňa, Múzeum Bojnice - Slovenské národné múzeum, Múzeum mesta Bratislavy, National Science and Technology Medals Foundation, Park Snow Donovaly, Penati Golf Resort, Plte na Orave, Privat Juma, Ranč u Trapera, Simplicissimus vydavateľstvo, Skalica Golf Resort, ConVeRsions Ski Kubínská hoľa, Slovakia Ring, Slovenská národná galéria, Slovenská správa jaskýň, Slovenské elektrárne, Slovenské národné Distances temperature Weight múzeum, Smolenice village, Sosna, Spa Piešťany, Spa Rajecké Teplice, Spa Sklenené Teplice, Sygic, TIC Senec, Tatry Mountain 1 km = 0.62 mile (km = mile / 0.62137) 0°C = 32°F (°C = (°F -32)/1.8) 1 kg = 2.2 lb (kg = lb/2.2046) Resorts, Volkswagen Slovakia, Východoslovenské múzeum, White Eurovalley Golf Park, www.slovakmountainguide.sk, XCHNG, 1 mile = 1.61 km (mile = km x 0.62137) 32°F = 0°C (°F = °C x 1.8+32) 1 lb = 0.45 kg (lb = kg x 2.2046) Zaježová, Židovské komunitné múzeum Copy editors: Benjamin Cunningham, Russel Lunday, Donald Stoll, Patricia Stoll, Jeff Whiteaker; maps: CBS Painted maps (CBS Maľované mapy), Kartografie HP. Drawings of architectural monuments are the work of the following authors: Bratislava Castle, Includes © 2014 The Rock, s.r.o. All rights reserved. Any reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited by the construction and drawing Bouda a Masár architektonická kancelária, s.r.o.; St Martin’s Cathedral, digital drawings Vojtech Jakab, pull-out map law. The authors of the articles published in this issue, represented by the publisher, reserve the right to give their approval architecture student; Old Town Hall, construction and drawing Martina Poláková, architecture student; creative design Pavol Martinický, architect; change of proportions and structures Peter Horanský, conservationist; Primate’s Palace, construction and drawing Tomáš for reproducing and public transmission of articles marked © The Slovak Spectator/ Spectacular Slovakia as well as for the ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2 Flak, design student; Jelka – Watermill on Posts, construction and drawing Gabriel Gyenes, architecture student; Častá – Castle Červený public circulation of reproductions of these articles in compliance with the 33rd article and 1st paragraph of the Copyright Law. Kameň, construction and drawing Michal Škrovina jun., architect; Topoľčianky – Manor House, construction and drawing Miroslava since Media Monitoring is provided by Newton, IT, SMA and Slovakia Online with the approval of the publisher. Advertising material Kemeňová, architecture student; Svätý Anton – Manor House, digital imaging Lukáš Cesnak, architecture student; creative finishing 1995 The Slovak Spectator contained herein is the responsibility of the advertiser and is not written or implied sponsorship, endorsement or investigation and changes Iveta Chovanová, architect; finishing Peter Horanský, conservationist. All other historical monuments are done by Matúš of such commercial enterprises or ventures by The Slovak Spectator or The Rock, s.r.o., ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2; Pniak based on photos by CBS Painted maps (CBS Maľované mapy) and Fly media. ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2 Slovak news you can trust content Address: The Rock, s.r.o. Lazaretská 12, 811 08 Bratislava advisor

0_obálka rozkres_2014.indd 1 Obalka_solo.indd 3 4. 9. 2014 11:47:28 Obalka_solo.inddPDF_spec.indd 12 12.4. 9. 2014 14:18:0213:43:02 4. 9. 2014 15:27:44 CONTENTS How to use this guide 2 Slovak art 204 Bojnice Castle Seven day itinerary 4 Folklore 209

Banská Bystrica Gothic architecture 212 Religion 214 Wooden churches 216

Jewish heritage 220 Speed, army 270 Spas 223 Out of the city 272 Slovakia’s TOP 10 5 Wine 228 Luxury 274 History 6 Golf 276 Changing Slovakia 12 Genealogy 280 Personalities 16 War 282 UNESCO 20 Mines, technical Sight by sight monuments 285 Beer & Spirits 232 Bratislava 26 Industrial tours 288 Food 234 Bratislava Region 45 Economy 290 Agritourism 238 Western Slovakia 60 Animal watching 240 Basics for tourists Central Slovakia 96 Hronsek Language (inside front cover) Northern Slovakia 118 Souvenirs 294 Eastern Slovakia 166 Events 294 Feature section Travellers’ needs 300 Castles 200 Horses 242 Restaurants 302 The annual coronation Index ceremony Cycling 245 (inside back cover) Rafting 249 Pull-out map Hiking 252 (inside back cover) Caves 256 Skiing 259 Aqua 262 Best deals 265 Extreme - heights 268 Štiavnické vrchy

01_05_how to use.indd 1 7. 9. 2014 20:58:05 8 history

the centre of the kingdom comprised as they were by the In 1563, the new King Maximilian craftsmen and merchants crucial II became the first Hungarian to the city’s business development, monarch to be crowned in St as well as servants and manual Martin’s Cathedral in Bratislava, labourers. There were many job and the church would continue to opportunities in Bratislava and in serve the same function for nearly local vineyards, and it attracted 300 years. Even today, it still has workers from far and wide. a 300 kilogramme gilded copy of St Stephen’s crown (the Holy capital Crown of Hungary) at the top of Bratislava’s advantageous location of thE EmpirE its cathedral tower. on the banks of the Danube, and Bratislava’s fame rapidly grew after After the era of coronations in its close proximity to Vienna and the Battle of Mohács in 1526, Bratislava ended, the crown jewels Budapest, has made it one of the when Sultan Suleiman I defeated were moved from the city. At the most important cities in central King Louis II of Hungary. In moment, the original crown is in Europe for hundreds of years, the aftermath of the battle, the Hungary, while Bratislava has only especially during the period of the Ottoman army occupied the a copy. Austro-Hungarian Empire. Hungarian capital Buda as well as The gothic St Martin’s Cathedral Indeed, the single most significant is now one of the most popular period in Bratislava’s history sites on the Bratislava tourist trail, was from 1563-1830, when it and contains numerous fascinating became the coronation city of the artefacts in its main building and Hungarian Kingdom. catacombs. There is a permanent At the time, Bratislava was a exhibition of relics and liturgical well-developed, multilingual city, objects that were once used in the with a population comprised of Small crowns mark the route of the coronation coronation ceremonies, as well as a a German-speaking majority and march in Bratislava list on the cathedral wall of the 19 solid minorities of Hungarians monarchs – ten kings, one queen and Slovaks. Society was divided the primary coronation city of the and eight consorts – who were into several classes: the upper kingdom, Székesfehérvár. In 1543, crowned there. aristocratic class provided the displaced rulers of a newly the secular and ecclesiastical founded empire made Bratislava maria thErEsa authorities, but the middle and its capital. While besieged by the The only queen on the list is, of lower classes remained strong, Ottomans, it was never conquered. course, Maria Theresa, who was Photo: Courtesy of Galéria mesta Bratislavy Crowds packed the Bratislava streets for the coronation procession

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Drevená MoNArChS CrowNeD iN BrAtiSlAVA Bradlianska Kozia KonventnáTrain Bus 1563 – King Maximilian ii and his wife, Mary station Poštová StaromestskáVeterná Suchémýto Obchodná Jedlíkova Heydukovastation of the Spain Podjavorinskej 19 min 17 min Zochova Kolárska 1572 – rudolf ii Hurbanovo Nám. SNP 1608 – Matthias ii Svoradova Župné nám. nám. Pilárikova 1613 - Anne of tirol, wife of Matthias ii PalisádyŠkarniclova Zámočnícka Nedbalova Zámocká FrantiškánskaUršulínska 1618 – ferdinand ii Baštová Kamennénám. KlobučníckaNedbalova 1622 - eleonora Gonzaga of Spain, second wife Staromestská Klariská of ferdinand ii Na vŕšku Biela

Zámocká Michalská

Františ. nám. Františ. Primaciálne Dunajská Židovská 1638 – Maria Anna of Spain, first wife of Sedlárska nám. Štúrova Farská Hlavné Radničná ferdinand iii nám. Laurinská Prepoštolská 1647 – ferdinand iV habsburg Zelená Rybárska br Gorkého 1655 – Maria eleonora Gonzaga, third wife of

Mikulášska 25 Kapitulská Židovská Panská . ferdinand iii Ventúrska Jesenského 1655 – leopold i Rudnayovo Medená Vodný vrch nám. 25

Strakova Tobrucká 1687 – Joseph i Kúpeľná Beblavého Palackého

Panská Mostová 1712 – Charles iii Staromestská Hviezdoslavovo námestie 1714 – elisabeth 25 Christine of Brunswick-wolfen-

Rigeleho Paulínyho Riečna Medená büttel, wife of Charles iii Žižkova Coronation mound 1741 – Maria theresa Rybné nám. Vajanského nábrežie 1790 – leopold ii Most SNP Most Fajnorovo nábr. Dvořákovo nábrežie Rázusovo nábrežie 1808 – Maria ludovika of Austria-este, third wife of fPrancis ii 1825 – Caroline Augusta of Bavaria, fourth wife of francis ii the route taken by monarchs on their coronation day 1830 – ferdinand V crowned in 1741 and would Bratislava is best remembered towards Michael’s Gate, where become one of the most significant by the annual coronation march the monarch would climb aboard figures in central European history. through the city, which remains a waiting charger and gallop to Maria Theresa acceded to the as close as possible to the the coronation mound on the throne after the death of her father, route taken by the Hungarian banks of the Danube. He or Charles VI, but only after he had monarchs on their coronation she would wave his sword to Mapka_Bratislava.indd 1 3. 9. 2014 3:28:15 successfully campaigned for what day. The new monarch would the north, east, south and west, became known as the Pragmatic have led a parade on foot promising to defend his kingdom Sanction of 1713, which allowed through the streets, via the Main from all directions. In those a female to inherit the possessions Square and past Maximilian’s days, the route would have been of the Habsburgs. Although Maria Fountain, which was placed there covered by red canvas, which was Theresa took charge of the empire in 1572. The tour continued torn down by citizens after the as it was still recovering from the into the Franciscan Church, celebration. plague epidemic of 1712, and her where the king or queen would Today’s residents of Bratislava rule was blighted by conflicts confer on selected noblemen get to enjoy the festivities in the region, including the the prestigious Order of every year, in June, when war of Austrian Succession the Golden Spur. The actors play the parts of the (1740-48) and the Seven Years’ procession would courtiers and monarchs, War (1756-63), her influence then proceed along dressed in period costume. over the empire was largely Michalská “It is good that Bratislava positive. Bratislava, in Street remembers its history,” said particular, underwent Dvořák. “A lot of buildings a period of significant from that era have been economic and social demolished, such as the improvement. towns’ gates, and old “Maria Theresa is buildings have been interesting for being replaced by new an enlightened ruler; ones. There were she made several even plans to bring appealing changes,” down Bratislava said the historian Castle during the first Pavel Dvořák. republic [1918-1939]. “For example, This is why it is very she introduced important to recall compulsory school the glorious times of attendance and Bratislava.” forbade torture.” By Carmen Virágová march through history These days, the royal history of

6_25_spectacular_2014.indd 9 7. 9. 2014 20:21:52 98 central slovakia - banská bystrica

1 Banská Bystrica W map E 3 210 km / 131 miles (117 min) NE of Bratislava  80,003  Námestie SNP 1, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 415-5085; +421 (0)907 846-555 www.banskabystrica.sk   1.5 km / 0.9 mile E of centre  May: United Europe Jazz Festival; July: Outbreak Europe (Hip-Hop Festival); September: B. Bystrica Town Days; October: Bábkarská Bystrica (festival of puppet theatre); December: Christmas market The City under the Urpín mountain, as Slovaks refer to Banská Bystrica, was once along with Banská Štiavnica and Kremnica, one of the three wealthiest mining towns in central Slovakia. The history of the city is similar to that of other mining towns which were settled by German colonists. The first written mention of the town also relates to mining. In 1255 Hungarian King Béla IV granted a deed giving German settlers the right to mine gold, silver and other metals. The immense wealth arising from mining is still reflected in the architecture of the city, most notably in the town castle, the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, the old town hall, the remaining vestiges of the fortifications, and the main square. The square is flanked by gothic and 1e Renaissance burgher houses and in its upper section, the leaning clock tower and the Marian column. Because of its unique architecture it was declared a preserved urban Barbakan reserve in 1955, the first town so designated in Slovakia. The town played a significant role in the Slovak National Uprising (SNP), when the armed resistance 1d against the Nazi occupation ignited here on August 29, 1944. The SNP Museum, documenting the events of Old Town Hall anti-fascist revolt, is also located in Banská Bystrica. Banská Bystrica is the capital of Banská Bystrica Region, and is the site of the Matej Bel University. Many factories and a rich cultural life continue to make Banská Bystrica lively and interesting. The city is also known for its brewery and beer named Urpiner.   +421 (0)48 470-1613 (called the Barbican) from 1512. www.ssgbb.sk  Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 10:00-16:00 €2  WC Today the Old Town Hall houses 1e Barbakan (Barbican) exhibitions of the Stredoslovenská  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa 26, Banská Bystrica galéria (Central Slovak Gallery) www.bystrickybarbakan.sk  WC and the House of Matej hosts a  Mon-Fri 12:00, 16:30 Sat 16:30 Sun 7:00 permanent exhibition about the history of the city prepared by the The Town Castle was once a church Stredoslovenské múzeum (Central that was protected by fortifications Slovak Museum). In the Barbican 1 Mestský hrad (Town Castle) Námestie Štefana Moyzesa, Banská Bystrica and a moat. At one time Banská there is a restaurant and a café. 1a Kostol Nanebovzatia Panny Márie Bystrica was a prosperous mining The oldest part of the town (Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary) town, and the castle was built castle is the Catholic Church  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa 1, Banská Bystrica to protect the income from of the Assumption of the +421 (0)48 412-4531 precious metal mining. The Virgin Mary. It was built by  exterior views only  Mon-Fri 12:00, 16:30 Sat castle was not built on a hill Germans in the 13th century 16:30 Sun 7:00, 8:30, 11:00, 16:30 like most castles but was in a late romanesque style 1b Matejov dom (House of Matej) incorporated into the centre and reconstructed in  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa 20, Banská Bystrica th +421 (0)48 412-5577  of the city. The castle gothic in the 14 www.ssmuzeum.sk  Tue-Fri 10:00-18:00 Sat-Sun was constructed century. In the 14:00-18:00  Tue-Fri 9:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 13:00- around the Church 15th century it was 17:00 €2.5    WC of the Assumption fortified. Initially 1c Kostol sv. Kríža (Church of the Holy Cross) of the Virgin Mary a cemetery  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa in the 15th century. surrounded +421 (0)48 412-4531  exterior views only Its fortifications the grounds,  Mon-Sat 6:30 Sun 9:45 were extended then later 1d Stará radnica - Pretórium (Old Town Hall) several times and new a romanesque charnel  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa 25, Banská Bystrica structures were added. house, which survived Only about a quarter of into the 19th century. Altar dedicated the fortification walls have to St Barbara The main altar, the work of survived the rigors of time Master Paul of Levoča, was and battle, but there are many destroyed in a fire in 1761 and later interesting nearby sites, including: replaced by a baroque piece. An the gothic House of Matej from altar dedicated to St Barbara, from 1479; the Slovak Church, also Master Paul’s workshop, completed called the Church of the Holy in 1509, has been preserved. Cross, from the late 15th century; The frescoes of the saints and the the Renaissance Old Town Hall, original 1770 baroque vault as well called Praetorium; and the entrance as a late gothic sculpture of Christ

House of Matej and Church of the Holy Cross House of Matej and Church gate with an impressive tower on the Mount of Olives from the

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Church of the Assumption 1a of the Virgin Mary contains the Stredoslovenské múzeum (the Museum of Central House of Matej Slovakia). The house was the 1b former headquarters of the Thurzo-Fugger copper mining company from 1492 to 1540. The exhibition on the history of Banská Bystrica includes a large collection of archaeological exhibits, mediaeval arms, coins, and 1c copies of historical Church of the documents. A special embattled partisans. A historical Holy Cross place is devoted to gothic art, library that contains more than mining, guilds, and crafts. 20,000 volumes is also noteworthy.

early 16th century are worth seeing. 5 Štátna opera (State Opera) The church continues to offer  Národná 11, Banská Bystrica Old Town Hall    masses on a regular basis. +421 (0)48 245-7101 www.stateopera.sk  depends on performances  depends on   2 Hodinová veža (Clock Tower) performances WC  Námestie SNP 24, Banská Bystrica +421 The State Opera resides in a building   (0)48 415-5085 Mon-Sun: 10:00-19:00 €1 dating back to the 1920s and is At the top of the square there is the based on a plan by prominent Slovak yellow-fronted clock tower from architect Emil Belluš. It has been the 16th century, which has two named a national monument. The clock-faces and a narrow balcony State Opera began as a branch of beneath its black and gold domed the Zvolen Theatre, but since 1993 cap. As a result of the collapse of a it has been independent. It employs neighbouring building, the tower its own orchestra, soloists, choir, and leans to the left by 68 centimetres in a ballet ensemble. The repertoire a rather disturbing manner. It offers focuses not only on well-known a panoramic view of the town and 4 Múzeum Slovenského národného povstania works such as Verdi’s Macbeth and surrounding valley. It was reopened (Museum of the Slovak National Uprising) Puccini’s Madame Butterfly, but   after reconstruction in August 2014. Kapitulská 23, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 also produces the work of its own 412-3258; +421 (0)48 245-1124; +421 (0)918 899-430  www.muzeumsnp.sk  May-Sep: Slovak composers. Since 1979, the Tue-Sun 9:00-18:00; Oct-Apr: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00 State Opera has participated in the €2    WC festival Zámocké hry zvolenské (Zvolen Castle Plays), an annual The distinctive grey building, drama and opera festival that offers designed by Dušan Kuzma and performances in the the yard of completed in 1969, is divided into Zvolen Castle. two parts connected by a bridge. The gap represents the Slovak National 1b 1c Krížna Uprising (SNP) as a milestone in Nám. Štefana Moyzesa 1a SkuteckéhoHorná

the life of the Slovak nation during 1 Nám. Štefana Moyzesa Štefana Nám.

World War II. Slovakia was a satellite Lazovná 1d of Nazi Germany when on August 1e Horná 29, 1944 the SNP erupted into a revolt against the Nazis. Despite the 2 uprising being suppressed in late 4 3 Thurzov dom (Thurzo’s House) October 1944, Slovakia ultimately i Kapitulská  Námestie SNP 4, Banská Bystrica +421 Námestie Slovenského 3 changed sides and ended the war on národného povstania 25 (0)48 412-5897  www.ssmuzeum.sk  Tue-Fri the side of the Allies. Arcade pasáž 10:00-18:00 Sat-Sun 14:00-18:00  Tue-Fri 9:00- Today, the museum houses a 25 17:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 €2.5  WC Národná Train permanent exhibition devoted to station 25 Kapitulská Some of the burgher houses on crucial political and military events 16 min Jána Cikkera the square are decorated with in Slovakia from 1918 to 1948. stucco and sgraffito façade. One There is an open-air exhibition of N Národná 5 Františka Švantnera P of the most beautiful houses, military equipment, including a Kuzmányho the green-faced Thurzo's House, plane that airlifted supplies to the Štadlerovo nábrežie Bočná

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Mapka_BB.indd 1 9. 8. 2014 15:38:28 144 northern slovakia - liPtov

Poprad +421 (0)907 886-644 www.jasna.sk Cableways Jasná Biela Púť – Chopok  Jun, Sep: Mon-Sun 8:30-16:00; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 8:30-17:00  Mon-Sun 8:30-15:00 from €13   WC Srdiečko – Chopok juh (south)  91 km / 56.3 miles (75 min) SW of Poprad +421 (0)907 886-644 www.jasna.sk Cableways Srdiečko – Kosodrevina  Jun, Sep: Mon-Sun 8:30-16:30; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 8:30-17:30  Mon-Sun 8:30-15:30 Cableways Kosodrevina – Chopok  Jun, Sep: Mon-Sun 8:30-16:00; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 8:30-17:00  Mon-Sun 8:30-15:00 €13   WC

The Low Tatras are extremely popular during the winter. The Jasná resort is the largest ski centre in Slovakia, offering 45 kilometres

Jasná ski resort (Courtesy of Tatry Mountain Resorts) (Courtesy of Tatry Jasná ski resort of slopes with 30 lifts. From the northern edge (Chopok sever), 28 nízke TaTry V Horehronie (central Slovakia) visitors can pass through the ridge (Low Tatras) and the Liptov region (northern into the Low Tatras and ski on the map E 3, F 3  19-110 km / 12-68 miles (20-75 Slovakia). Thus, the Low Tatras southern slopes (Chopok juh). min) SW of Poprad www.nizketatry.sk are bounded by the two longest Some skiers may choose the less 2 Area: 1,242 km ; Highest point: Ďumbier (2,043 m) rivers in Slovakia – the Váh and confined slopes for free-riding the Hron. Ďumbier is its highest on more daunting courses. Ski peak with a height of 2,043 passes of two or more days also metres / 6,703 ft, followed by include access to the aquapark Štiavnica (2,025 m / 6,644 Tatralandia, which is 20 ft) and Chopok (2,024 m / kilometres from Jasná. 6,637 ft). The highest peak The cable cars operate all in the western Low Tatras is summer for hikers. Kráľova hoľa which rises up The southern face of to a height of 1,946 metres the Low Tatras in central The second highest mountain range / 6,385 ft. The mountains Slovakia offers less expensive in Slovakia offers an experience that are home to a rich variety of skiing. Centres in Mýto is quite different from what can wildlife – especially bears, pod Ďumbierom (www. be found in the High Tatras. The wolves, and lynx. The Low skicentrummyto.eu) or in slopes of the Low Tatras are less Tatras also boast some unusual and Tále (www.tale.sk), which precipitous and rocky than those interesting geologic formations, are located in the valley under the of the High Tatras which actually including huge limestone formations Chopok, are popular for families. makes them more suitable for skiing called limestone or karst as well as Donovaly (www.parksnow.sk), and hiking. The Low Tatras are the several large underground caves. situated on the western edge of the largest mountain chain in Slovakia Low Tatras with the Greater Fatra and make up its biggest national 29 choPok (Veľká Fatra), is also one of the park. They form an 80-kilometre Jasná – Chopok sever (north) most visited ski centres in Slovakia. border between the regions of Map E 3 73 km / 45.3 miles (52 min) SW of During summer, Srdiečko is an

27 Liptovský Hrádok i3 Čierny Váh (pg 288-289) Ďurková 1,750 Dereše 24 24 Liptovský Hrádok (pg 142) 32 2,003 Chopok 25 Liptovský Ján (pg 142-143) 2,024 25 27 Liptovský Mikuláš (pg 143) 31 Ďumbier 29 Chopok (pg 144-145) 30 2,043 30 Demänovská Cave of Liberty (pg 145) Skalka 31 Demänovská Ice Cave (pg 145-146) 1,980 32 Svätý Kríž (pg 146) Latiborská hoľa 28 Šumiac (pg 111) 1,643 35 Tále (pg 113) 29 36 Dead Bats’ Cave (pg 113) 41 Donovaly (pg 114) Ráztocká hoľa 36 Zvolen 1,565 1,403

35 Tále 41

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ideal starting point for hikes from central Slovakia to Chopok – it takes around three hours to get to the top. Hikers can take a break in the Kamenná chata pod Chopkom chalet, or they can continue on numerous other trails. For non-hikers there are cable cars from Srdiečko to Kosodrevina, then up to Chopok. The best way to reach the highest point of the Low Tatras, Ďumbier, from the southern side, is to make the hour and half hike from Trangoška (2 kilometres before Srdiečko) to the M. R. Štefánik chalet, passing around the Dead Bats’ Cave. From the chalet it takes 90 minutes to Ďumbier. On the northern side, the cable cars from Jasná-Záhradky  The cave’s entrance is about 400 metres from cave is known for its rich colours, will take visitors almost to the top the car park +421 (0)44 559-1673 ranging from white, through  of Chopok. To go back down, www.ssj.sk Jan-May, Sep 15-Nov 25: Tue-Sun various shades of brown to black. 9:30-14:00 (entrance every 90 min); use hiking trails or the cable cars. Jun: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00 (entrance In the cave you can also Jasná also offers hiking adventures every hour); Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun see a 60-metre waterfall as for children. The Giant Bike Park 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour) well as a cave organ Jasná is suitable for anyone keen  €8   WC consisting of stalagmites on mountain biking. Bikes can be that emit a musical tone rented then the chair-lift will take The Demänovská Cave of when struck. All the them to the top of the hill. Other Liberty is the most visited cave formations are continuing to activities including paragliding and in Slovakia thanks partly to its grow, or in cave parlance are alive, horseback riding are also available. location in the Demänovská Valley meaning they glisten. To get to the a popular tourist destination. The cave take the road from Liptovský interior of the cave was created Mikuláš to Jasná, walking about 15 by the underground flow of minutes up from the parking lot. the Demänovka River, whose headwaters spring below the main 31 deMänoVská ridge of the Low Tatras. The cave ľadoVá jaskyňa is 8,497 metres long, and visitors (Demänovská Ice Cave) can choose between a 1,150-metre map E 3  63 km / 39 miles (43 min) SW of Photo: Michal Rengevič and a 2,150-metre tour to see sinter Poprad  0.6 km / 0.4 mile W of the cave 30 deMänoVská water-lilies and other forms, as well Demänovská Dolina, Ľadová jaskyňa  The cave’s jaskyňa slobody as eccentric stalactites (stalactites entrance is about 600 metres from the car park  hang upside down, as opposed +421 (0)44 554-8170 (Demänovská Cave of www.ssj.skMay 15- May 31, Sep: Tue-Sun Liberty) W to stalagmites, which grow from 9:30-14:00 (entrance every 90 min); Jun: Tue-Sun map E 3  65 km / 40 miles (46 min) SW of the ground up; eccentric means 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour); Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun Poprad  0.5 km / 0.3 mile W of the cave that they defy gravity by growing 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour)  7  Demänovská Dolina, Jaskyňa Slobody horizontally, for example). The  WC

Liptovský Hrádok 24 i3 Kráľová hoľa 1,946 Veľká Vápenica 1,691 Orlová Predná hoľa 1,840 1,546 Babiná Oravcová 1,516 1,544 © Kartografie HP

Šumiac 28

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5 Dóm sv. Alžbety than 5,000 worshippers, it took (St elizabeth’s Cathedral) W 130 years to build. During this city map page 169  Hlavné námestie 3, time, construction was halted by Košice Å+421 (0)55 622-1555 (the crypt+the various attacks on the city, only to stairs) Mon 13:00-17:45 Tue-Sat 9:00-17:45 Sun 13:00-17:45; (the tower) Mon 13:00-19:00 Tue-Thu be restarted as hostilities abated. 9:00-19:00 Fri-Sat 9:00-20:00 Sun 13:00-19:00 U The construction of the ambitious Mon-Sat 6:00, 7:00, 18:00 Sun 6:00, 7:30, 9:00, and expensive St Elizabeth’s 10:30, 12:00, 15:00, 18:00 €1 (the crypt); Cathedral clearly announced to all €1.5 (the tower); €1 (the stairs) €5 (all parts + St in the region the bold confidence Michael’s Chapel) é(partly) and prosperity of mediaeval Košice, the northern touting its leadership position entrance to the among eastern European cities cathedral and its favoured status among Hungarian royalty. The investment clearly paid off as Košice assumed centrality in the region. Rather than light and airy like later examples of gothic architecture, the building is imposing and overwhelming. There are two towers, one truncated and the other reaching nearly 60 metres. The public is allowed (and encouraged) to climb the 161 steps and view the entire region from the top. The Dominating the south end of exterior is all 14th century gothic, Košice’s main square, St Elizabeth’s complete with dozens of decorative Cathedral honours the city’s spires and even adopted patron, St Elizabeth of gargoyles on the Hungary, patron saint of bakers, roof directing homeless, nursing services, tertiaries, rainwater widows and young brides. The new cathedral, begun in 1378, was built on the site of the romanesque parish church dedicated to St Michael. Rather than alienate St Michael, a new gothic chapel was built in his honour in the shadow of the cathedral. St Elizabeth’s is a large gothic cathedral, 60 metres long and 36 metres wide, the largest in Slovakia and the leading example of this architectural style in eastern Europe. Featuring the highest dome of any Slovak church, the construction of a Košice skyscraper in recent years was abandoned because it would have been taller than St Elizabeth’s. With room for more

the most impressive northern entrance to the cathedral the public is allowed to climb the 161 stairs of Main altar with sculpture of the northern tower the Virgin Mary in the middle

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away from the building. Legend perhaps by the master himself. It 4 Kostol Sv. Michala (St Michael’s Church) city map page 169  Hlavné námestie 4, Košice has it that one of the gargoyles consists of 48 paintings. However Å+421 (0)55 622-1555  Mon 13:00-18:00 is a rather unflattering caricature visitors cannot see all of them at Tue-Sat 9:00-18:00 Sun 13:00-18:00 U of the builder’s wife. Another once as they rotate seasonally. This Tue 15:00 Thu 15:00 Sun 9:30, 11:00 (in English) legend – there is a keystone hidden gothic altar with a double rotating €1.5 é someplace which, if removed, mechanism is one of two in the would cause the building to world (the second is in the French collapse, allegedly as an insurance city of Colmar). policy guaranteeing the In the centre of the cathedral builder would be paid. is a hanging sculpture of The northern entrance the Immaculata. to the cathedral is most Other chapels include impressive with its a late-gothic altar engravings of the Last with depictions of Trial, scenes from the the Visitation of the life of St Elizabeth, the Virgin Mary, a wooden Virgin Mary, the Apostle sculpture of the Virgin John, and the Calvary. In Mary, fragments of the wall the middle is a sculpture of painting the Last Judgement St Elizabeth. the side altar of St Anthony The interior is even more impressive of Padua, a wall painting The thanks to the main altar dedicated Resurrection, the bronze font, the to St Elizabeth, which places altar painting of St Anna Metercia, When construction on the massive it among the world’s highest and a gothic Calvary. There is also St Elizabeth’s Cathedral was started quality gothic art. According to an impressive carved neo-gothic in 1378, another building project, art historian Peter Kresánek, it stone pulpit. a small chapel dedicated to St was created by Nikolaus Gerhaert Two other highlights of the interior Michael, was already complete. This von Leyden and his followers, are not to be missed. One is a rare architectural gem is a much better (there are only five) side-by-side example of gothic architecture than carved marble spiral stairway leading its neighbour, no doubt because it up to the royal gallery (where was built so much more quickly, visiting nobles could attend mass between 1350 and 1370. without mixing with the common Serving originally as a cemetery folk) offering a hawk eye’s view of chapel, its lower part was an ossuary, the cathedral’s central nave. One housing bones uncovered in the arm of the stairs continues up to the old cemetery, and its upper part space where it is believed the relic of a site for requiems. On its altar Christ’s blood used to be preserved. is a sculpture of St Michael the The stairway, often called a lovers Archangel battling Satan depicted stair because it offers several as a dragon. In 2006, the award- meeting points along the way, is winning reconstruction received open to the public. Ask for a key reclassification as a full-on church. at the shop next to the church This was acknowledging that St entrance. The second highlight Michael’s served as a church for is the crypt where the remains minorities from the 17th century of Francis II Rákóczi were to the early 20th century while moved in 1906. Rákóczi, a the cathedral was reserved for the leader of the last anti-Habsburg Hungarian-speaking population, uprising, was a much revered which at that time was the majority hero to the citizens of Košice. in the city.

the church is accessable from the west

entrance to the Central part of the northern tower cathedral with carved neo-gothic stone pulpit

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orava Castle is one of the most impressive castles in slovakia There are 138 small chateaus, 435 manor houses, and alto- gether 180 castles and chateaus in Slovakia. The rise and fall of Slovak castles These days Slovakia is recognised as shown interest in these magnificent the world leader in car production per constructions, and volunteer groups capita. What is lesser known is that this have formed to preserve and renovate country also has the highest number of castles. registered castles per person. Terminology Theoretically, the country could be In The begInnIng Castle (hrad) – Fortified structure serving for defence purposes comprised of 180 small The story of Slovakia’s kingdoms of 30,000 people castles begins in the 9th Chateau (zámok) – Representa- tive fortified structure more suitable each with its own castle or century when Slavs began for nobles chateau. Unfortunately, building wooden fortresses manor house (kaštieľ) – Resi- because of a lack of in present-day Slovakia, dence of nobility usually placed on maintenance, there are just with about a dozen stone a plain rather than on top of the hill 120 castles with visible remains and castles replacing them in the Curia (kúria) – Small chateau even most of those are largely in 11th century – including in where low nobility used to live ruins. For visitors, there are luckily Bratislava, Nitra, and Trenčín. still dozens of castles to tour replete The best example of one with their majesty and cold beauty. of these constructions is one As a mountainous country, Slovakia of the best-known Slovak is naturally predisposed to castles that castles – the Bratislava Castle. CasTles, CiTy CasTles & use the high ground and rocks as Its first mention dates to the forTresses construction material. Starting in the 10th century, but the castle hill Middle Ages and up to the 18th century, was inhabited also in the Celtic 1 Bratislava Castle the aristocracy of the Kingdom of and the Great-Moravian era. Despite  page 40 Hungary preferred to build their castles turbulent times, fires and lack of money 14 Pezinok Castle in Slovakia’s easy to defend territory, art for its maintenance Bratislava Castle has  pages 51-52 18 Červený Kameň Castle historian Peter Kresánek says. been preserved until today. It has been  page 54 Most of those constructions turned renovated and now stands proudly on to ruins as their military importance a hill above the banks of the Danube. decreased and landowners sought out Indeed, Slovaks voted to make it one more comfortable residences. For a long of the three symbols representing time, few had a passion for castles and the country on their new euro coins, what was not destroyed over the years introduced in January 2009. became construction material for nearby Tartar raids in the 13th century brought homes. about a period of consolidation in the After the fall of the communist regime Kingdom of Hungary’s defence strategy, Bratislava Castle in 1989, more and more people have and by the end of the century, around

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150 castles had been built or fortified to 12 smolenice Castle protect the area from further raids. Later,  page 67 many castles became administrative 23 Trenčín Castle centres or living quarters for Hungarian  page 72 29 Bojnice Castle nobles. This period gave birth to the  page 76 Orava Castle which is one of the most 36 nitra City Castle visited castles in Slovakia. It became  page 84 part of cinematic history in 1922 when 46 Komárno fortress German director F. W. Murnau shot the  page 90 silent vampire movie Nosferatu inside c2 ilava Castle its walls. Mierové námestie 1, Ilava exterior views only (the goIng bIg building serves as a prison) More new castles were built and fortified 1 Banská Bystrica Town th during the 15 -century Hussite wars, slovak castles often offer re-enactment of history Castle  page 98 this time taking into account firearms. In 2 Hronský Beňadik this era, Trenčín, Devín, and Spiš Castles By order of the ruler, castle walls like monastery page 100 became three of the biggest in Europe. those at Vígľaš, Fiľakovo and Krásna 5 Banská Štiavnica old Of all Slovakia’s castles, the grand and Hôrka were significantly extended. Castle  page 102 gloomy Spiš Castle is probably the most Also the Komárno Fortress was rebuilt 5 Banská Štiavnica new Castle  page 103 celebrated. It is reputed to be the largest according to Italian war engineer 11 Zvolen Castle castle ruin in central Europe, and in its designs, becoming the strongest fortified  page 106 stony decay it seems to erupt out construction of the Kingdom 15 Vígľaš Castle of the hill on which it is perched, of Hungary. In 1594 the  page 107 as if the earth itself were trying fortress resisted a month-long 39 slovenská Ľupča Castle to resurrect a lost gothic past. siege by an Ottoman army  page 114 Perhaps that is why the castle of 100,000 soldiers and 45 Kremnica Town Castle was used in American movie later became a symbol  page 116 Dragonheart as a castle by of European military 1 Červený Kláštor the sea, while in reality it is architecture. monastery  page 123 more than 600 kilometres But it is not only castles 2 stará Ľubovňa Castle from the nearest shoreline. that were used in the fight  page 124 One of the best preserved against the Ottomans, 8 Kežmarok Castle castles built in this era is the even some monasteries  page 128 Kežmarok Castle, constructed were fortified and absorbed 49 oravský Podzámok in the mid 15th century. Today into the defence system. orava Castle  page 152 The coat of arm of Pálffy family 69 Bytča Castle  page 158 it is used as a museum that Hronský Beňadik is an 70 Žilina Budatín Castle tells the history of both Kežmarok and example. The abbey was first established  page 160 the castle itself. in 1075, and the local monks were instrumental for centuries in spreading 8 Krásna Hôrka Castle oTToMAn InVADeRS Christianity before the whole complex  page 178 Another round of castle building took was fortified to face the Ottoman raids. place after the Ottomans conquered The monastery was declared a national lower Hungary in the 16th century. cultural monument in 1945.

spiš Castle is impressive from the air as well as from the ground

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ruins wiTH exHiBiT 3 Devín Castle  page 44 20 Čachtice Castle  page 70 22 Beckov Castle  page 71 41 levice Castle  page 83 8 Bzovík Kláštorná pevnosť Bzovík (Bzovík fortress) www.muzeum.sk +421 (0)907 852-925  Jun-Sep: non-stop  booking necessary free 19 modrý Kameň Castle  page 109 23 fiľakovo Castle  page 110 14 spiš Castle The Bojnice Castle is inspired by french chateaus in the loire Valley  page 134 24 liptovský Hrádok Castle During the Ottoman wars in the 16th writers, playwrights, filmmakers, and  page 142 and 17th centuries, Slovak castles played artists from across the world. The 39 likava Castle a considerable role in the defence of list includes a song by the American  page 149 the whole region which had become a thrash metal band Slayer or a 2008 67 strečno Castle geopolitically important English-language fantasy  page 157 crossroad. Many travel film of an international books and publications co-production between written in those times Slovakia, the Czech describe Slovak castles, Republic, Hungary, and according to Kresánek. the United Kingdom. It However, the stories were comes as no surprise that manor Houses wiTH not only about heroic much of the small town exHiBiT battles. For instance, museum in Čachtice 13 Dolná Krupá one famous legend focuses on Báthory.  page 67 recounts the exploits 34 oponice of Elizabeth Báthory. TwIlIghT of  page 80 Otherwise known as the The cASTleS 38 Topoľčianky Blood Countess, this Most of Slovakia’s castles  page 81 Hungarian aristocrat elizabeth Báthory were destroyed after a c1 sobotište became notorious in the series of anti-Habsburg manor House early 17th century as a serial killer who uprisings in the 17th century which www.muzeum.sk +421 (0)34 628-2102 Tue, tortured and killed scores of young ended in 1711. Because the castles were Fri 12:30-18:00 Wed-Thu 10:00- women – possibly up to 650 victims considered to be centres of rebellion, 12:00, 12:00-16:00 in her residence – Čachtice Castle. rulers decided to render them useless. The €1 Many myths and legends have surfaced emperor’s army systematically deprived c3 Brodzany surrounding Báthory’s crimes, most them of their defence capabilities by manor House notably the claims that she bathed in destroying important parts of their walls, www.snk.sk €1 her victims’ blood in a bid to retain embrasures and other tactical structures. +421 (0)907 812-770 Mon- her youth. Whatever the truth, she After that the castles were used as Fri 9:00-15:30 Sat 10:00-14:00 c4 Jelenec has been the grisly inspiration for watchtowers and continued to decay. manor House Some saw their prospects partially www.forgach.org revived with new lives as more pleasant  Hlavná street - Forgáčov dvor and luxurious chateaus, family residences +421 (0)37 631-3311Wed, or museums during the romantic period Sat-Sun 13:00-16:00 €1 toward the end of the 18th century. c5 Beladice For example, after the Thurzo family manor House took over the Bojnice Castle in the www.tartuf.sk th  Pustý Chotár 495 16 century, they promptly remade +421 (0)37 633-0235 the heavily fortified defence structure exterior views only free into a Renaissance-style chateau. Later, Polish crown jewels were hidden at stará Ľubovňa Castle János Pálffy, a wealthy heir and castle-

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makeover enthusiast, gave the castle a c1 1 late-Tyrolian gothic look. 2 69 70 c2 49 50 Mimicking the romantic chateaus of 7 46 c1 71 67 39 8 14 32 France’s Loire Valley, the Bojnice Castle c2 80 25 24 16 has become a wonderful destination c2 20 23 29 39 7 8 19 for travellers with children. Rumours 22 45 1 c1 20 34 c3 11 that the castle is haunted have led to 5 15 12 13 38 the whimsical International Festival of c4 6 23 18 36 c5 2 8 20 14 41 19 Spirits and Ghosts, held annually in late 3 April and early May. 1 manor Houses wiTH The Pálffy family has also reconstructed 46 exHiBiT the Červený Kameň Castle in an early baroque style. It now serves as a museum origin in romanesque-gothic parts of the 6 svätý anton chronicling the development of the monastery,” Kresánek said.  page 105 housing culture of the nobility and 20 Dolná strehová SAVIng nATIonAl Kaštieľ imre madácha (imre bourgeoisie in Slovakia. madách manor House) However, most of Slovak castles have TReASuReS www.snm.sk th not had such a happy ending. Many of In the beginning of the 20 century  Madácha 1 +421 castles drew the focus of various tourism (0)47 489-7189 Tue-Sun clubs and later the state. Many now 10:00-17:00 €2 serve as museums (Červený Kameň Castle, Modrý Kameň Castle, Kežmarok 7 strážky  page 126 Castle), some have galleries (Bratislava 16 markušovce  page 136 Castle, Zvolen Castle), and the Ilava 25 liptovský Ján Castle was turned into a prison. Plenty  page 142 of the castles remain a dominant feature c1 radoľa of the towns and cities they are in, manor House like Bratislava, Trenčín, Nitra, Zvolen, www.kysuckemuzeum.sk €2 Kežmarok or Banská Bystrica. Moreover, +421 (0)41 421-2505 Mon- Cathedral dominates the nitra Castle dozens of chateaus were restored and Fri 8:00-15:30 Sun 10:00-15:30 them burned down. Two castles outside are commercially used as restaurants c2 oščadnica manor House Bratislava – Devín and Pajštún – were or hotels. As time passes even ordinary www.kysuckagaleria.sk €1 burned intentionally by Napoleon, after people try to conserve or reconstruct  Oščadnica 13 +421 he had signed a peace treaty in 1805. (0)41 433-2166 Tue-Fri Two more were lost in World War II. 10:00-17:00 Sun 12:30-16:00 Another two were shaken to the ground by earthquakes. 7 Betliar  page 177 The latest hit by fire was Krásna Hôrka, 19 Trebišov  page 183 one of the most cherished and best- 20 michalovce  page 184 32 Humenné  page 188 preserved castles in Slovakia. Most of the c1 Hanušovce nad Topľou castle was destroyed in March 2012, and manor House it needs serious reconstruction. www.muzeumhanusovce.sk Other castles simply fell apart because  Zámocká 160/5 of neglect. In the past, castles had no restoration of castles is a leisure activity for many +421 (0)57 445-2371  (Photo: martin sárossy) historical value to locals who let the Jul-Aug: Mon-Fri 7:30-18:00 structures to crumble. Tragically, many damaged castles. For example, there Sat-Sun 14:00-18:00  Mon-Fri destroyed the castles by using their were 24 castles maintained by civic 7:30-15:00 from €2 c2 Budimír; manor House walls as construction material for their associations and 36 by municipalities www.stm-ke.sk own homes. Art historian Kresánek in 2014. Reconstruction work on +421 (0)55 622-4035 Tue- mentioned Bzovík Fortress as one castles became a sort of leisure time Sat 9:00-17:00 from €1.5 which was partially looted by locals for activity which could be enjoyed even by its materials. “Foundation materials of foreigners staying in Slovakia. (For more CasTles anD monumenTs the whole village of Bzovík have their information go to pg 272.) wHere foreigners are While the particular motivation for welComeD To HelP wiTH people who try to save castles varies, reConsTruCTions 50 sedliacka Dubová most agree that they cannot watch as a  page 272 historical treasure vanishes. “I do care 71 lietava Castle about people who do not know their  page 161 history, which is richer than it appears,” 80 sklabiňa Castle Rastislav Rybanský from the civic  page 165 association renewing the Topoľčany 5 Banská Štiavnica Castle said. “I do care for sure about  page 102 history decaying in front of my eyes.” 46 Šariš Castle Bzovík is a former monastery rebuilt into a fortress By Roman Cuprik  page 273

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agriTourism 33 Bojná; ranč pod Babicou A taste of life on the farm  Bojná 812 +421 (0)38 537-3298 www.babica-bojna.sk (mini-zoo, fishing) 58 galanta ranč na striebornom jazere  Galanta +421 (0)917 049- 449 www.rancgalanta.sk (fishing, horse riding) a1 Podkylava; agropenzión adam  Podkylava 188 +421 (0)32 777-2101 www.penzion-adam.sk a2 Bolešov; Chata gilianka  Bolešov +421 (0)905 629- 668 www.chatagilianka.sk (horse riding, hunting, fishing, be- ekeeping, collecting mushrooms and herbs) 6 svätý anton; ranč nádej  Na Záhumní 499, Svätý Anton +421 (0)911 806-499 www.rancnadej.sk (horse riding, fishing, collecting berries, sheep products tasting) 33 Brezno; eurosalaš michalová  Brezno +421 (0)903 610-126 www.eurosalas.sk (sheep cheese making, taking People tired of speedy and consumer lifestyle can try to work at farms care of the farm, cooking of halušky) a1 Turany; ranč aljaška Every year, lovers of bryndzové halušky product of the sheep industry with a  Družstevná 10, Turany travel to the village of Turecká in Banská long-time tradition,” Sven Harman of +421 (0)43 429-2008 Bystrica Region to demonstrate their the Bryndziareň a Syráreň company www.rancaljaska.sk skills at the World Championships in Zvolenská Slatina told The Slovak (dog sled and horse riding) in cooking Slovakia’s national dish. Spectator. Bryndza has its fans also a2 nižné Kamence The event draws international halušky outside Slovakia, said Harman, noting Camping Belá devotees suggesting that the fame of the demand from Slovakia’s neighbours and  Nižné Kamence +421 (0)41 569-5135 salty sheep cheese dish has the Turkish communities in Austria and www.campingbela.eu crossed Slovakia’s Germany. (mini zoo, fishing) borders. The picturesque wooden houses, salaše, 16 nováčany The or koliby, the sheep farms, where herders Biofarma – Zlatý Hýľ championship (bačovia) used to live are today often  Nováčany 145 “is clearly the transformed into restaurants, usually +421 (0)903 706-655 first event of this built along the important roads instead www.zlatyhyl.sk kind open to the public in Slovakia,” of the green pasture lands. The historical (taking care of the farm) a1 Hodkovce; agrofarma said Ivan Janovec, the mayor of Turecká. process of bryndza-making has changed, - ranč f&a&H  Hodkovce In the past bryndzové halušky “was but the farms remain. Today, however, +421 (0)53 449-5129 the meal of hardworking Slovaks”, such businesses face tough times. www.ranch-fah.sk; (hunting, but it is increasingly thought of as a “Traditional sheep farms will not collecting berries, herbs and cultural delicacy. The popularity of last,” Eva Grénerová from Eurosalaš mushrooms) the main ingredient of the dish, the Michalová in Brezno told The Slovak bryndza or ‘white gold’, comes from the Spectator. “Young people do not want to ranCHes  page 242-244 deep-rooted tradition of sheep herding work here and the old cannot keep up.” th TraDiTional fooD reaching back to the 15 century when 1 Bratislava; schoppa the Wallachians began to settle in what www.schoppa.sk is today’s Slovakia. 8 lozorno; Biofarma Detva, located in the Podpoľanie region, príroda; www.biofarma.sk was the home of the first bryndza 7 senica; salaš sobotišťan factory. The company was established by www.salas-sobotistan.sk the Vagač family and functioned until 36 nitra; salaš Cabaj the end of World War II. Ten years later, www.salas-cabaj.sk a3 nimnica; salaš nimnica another factory opened in Zvolenská www.salasnimnica.sk Slatina which is still operational today. 1 Banská Bystrica; Koliba u “Interest in our products has not faded sv. Krištofa; www.usvkristofa.sk away, as [bryndza] is the most typical Competing in halušky eating (Photo: noro Halabuk)

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fARMeR pARADISe a3 2 38 While lifestyles have changed a2 47 dramatically, Slovaks’ love of nature has 45 a5 a3 a1 a4 13 not. After the nationalisation of farms in 43 40 38 32 a2 41 20 post-war Czechoslovakia, the only way 33 1 31 a3 16 1 a1 for large-scale raising of livestock was 7 a1 a2 a1 in an agricultural cooperative. The state 33 6 owned all meat-production while certain 8 36 TraDiTional fooD meat types became exclusive goods for 58 31 michalová; eurosalaš 1 which people queued up. Friends of the Brest www.eurosalas.sk butcher were the only ones who could 41 Donovaly; Koliba goral guarantee that a Sunday lunch included a www.maguradonovaly.sk a1 ladomerská Vieska cut like tenderloin, for example. In recent years, the tourism potential of motorest ladomer Although such stories are a thing of the the countryside and farming has been www.motorestladomer.sk past, some Slovaks still prefer to keep rediscovered. Some farms offer a wide a2 Kováčová; salaš Hron their own animals to maintain a fresh range of activities to visitors, including www.salashronkovacova.sk daily supply of foods. Older generations workshops, and it is possible to try a3 Pohronská Polhora often put more trust into home-kept out the real work on salaš. Routine salaš Zbojská - Zbojnícky animals rather than imported goods. farming activities such as milking and dvor www.zbojska.sk “Our family keeps poultry and rabbits herding sheep, splitting wood or the 2 stará Ľubovňa; salaš u franka www.salasufranka.sk hand reaping of grass, are offered to 13 spišské Podhradie people interested in experiencing the spišský salaš kind of effort that goes into making www.spisskysalas.sk their favourite produce. Biofarma 32 svätý Kríž; salaš Stupava is one of those spots where Dechtáre; www.salasdechtare.sk visitors can experience life on the farm 38 Kozí vŕšok while learning how to crack a whip, call www.kozivrsok.sk the sheep or cook home-made quince 40 ružomberok Koliba u dobrého pastiera sweets. www.kolibaupastiera.sk “The traditional cuisine, farms and salaše are one of the opportunities for our economy and tourism,” Martina Hlinová from Biofarma Stupava told The Slovak Spectator. Another is the Zlatý Hýľ biofarm at the end of the village Nováčany about 15 kilometres from Košice. Its owners, many slovaks prefer keeping their own animals a married couple, have been pursuing and buys meat only from smaller their interest in farming for the past 10 butchers,” Jaroslav Štrba from Pezinok years. René Pavlík describes himself as 43 salaš Krajinka told The Slovak Spectator. “We enjoy a guy from the block, but he www.salaskrajinka.sk living with the animals and eating and his wife have dedicated 45 Dolný Kubín; Penzión healthy food,” his wife Františka added. themselves to converting Koliba www.penzionkoliba.sk an old farm into a 47 Zázrivá; salaš syrex www.syrex.sk complex agritourism a3 nižná nad oravou centre. The goal is to offer oravský zrub tourists the chance to escape www.oravskyzrub.sk modern consumerist a4 Veľký slavkov; salaš society. slavkov www.salas.sk “People can get their a5 stará lesná; Zbojnícka hands on anything koliba www.zbojnickakoliba.com that’s usually done 1 Košice; salaš Barca www.salasbarca.sk at a farm,” Pavlík 1 Košice; u šuhaja said. “They can try www.usuhaja.sk what it feels like to 20 michalovce be a shepherd, run euro Penzión salaš after a flock of sheep or www.salas.sirava.info look after grazing cows.” 38 Bardejov; salaš lesná Photos: manik By Lenka Sabová www.salaslesna.sk

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av T opening hours outside summer season V a must-see sight Northern Slovakia (pages 118 – 165) Live your own story of Slovakia U religious service church E admission charge for adults Information and castle l Guid E ¯ live music Eastern Slovakia (pages 166 – 197) contact details for more manor house, mansion é than 450 tourist spots wheelchair access castle ruins ä restaurant cave 3D aerial drawings of å café, bar Top Slovak sights ski resort tRaVel GuiDe speCtaCulaR sloVaKia 7 major city centres e gift shop www.spectator.sk © 2014 The Rock, s.r.o.; address: The Rock, s.r.o. Lazaretská 12, 811 08 Bratislava, Slovakia. UNESCO site G museum publisher: Ján Pallo; editor-in-chief: Beata Balogová; editor: Benjamin Cunningham; Cover photo: Spiš Castle and the High Tatras 32 travel railway (Peter Baňas); layout: Peter Malatinec, Miroslav Čech, Ján Pallo Content advisor: Slovak Tourist Board (SACR); partners: Bratislava 17 maps of city  gallery Tourist Board, Bratislava Region Tourism, Slovnaft feature stories highway centres and major ® theatre authors and contributors: Beata Balogová, Nadia Beard, Tímea Becková, Benjamin Cunningham, Roman Cuprik, Michaela Džome- mountains u train stop (station) - sometimes also distance 1st-class road ková, Beata Fojtíková, Michaela Gedaiová, Miroslava Germanová, Kristína Hamárová, Jozef Hámorský, Lenka Hudáková, Monika 2nd-class road Kacejová, Kristína Krupčíková, Filip Lehotský, Jana Liptáková, Martin Majdák, Zuzana Matkovská, Karina Miartanová, Radka Minarecho- Pull-out map from the stop to the relevant sight is published vá, Peter Nagy, Lukáš Onderčanin, Ján Pallo, Jitka Parobeková, Michaela Pástorová, Ján Pestún, Martina Raabová, Lucia Rusnáková, v bus stop (station) - sometimes also distance 3rd-class road Lenka Sabová, Natália Semianová, Donald Stoll, Patricia Stoll, Howard Swains, Michaela Terenzani, James Thomson, of Slovakia More than Alica Tkáčová, Zuzana Vilikovská, Viktória Vincejová, Carmen Virágová from the stop to the relevant sight is published border crossing 1,000 photos road number photos: Peter Baňas, Nadia Beard, Tímea Becková, Tomáš Benedikovič, Miroslava Cibulková, Roman Cuprik, Yuri Dojc, Eva Dučaiová, public transport: stop or numbers - sometimes Dušan Dudík, Michaela Džomeková, Pavol Funtál, Michaela Gedaiová, Miroslava Germanová, Michal Glonek, Noro Halabuk, Kristína also distance from the stop to the relevant sight is golf Hamárová, Katarína Hudačinová, Lenka Hudáková, Peter Jánošdeák, Kristína Krupčíková, Gabriel Kuchta, Sanela Kurtek, Filip Lehotský, Suggested published water park Jana Liptáková, Manik, Zuzana Martinková, Zuzana Matkovská, Cyril Meňuš, Karina Miartanová, Roman Millan, Radka Minarechová, seven day Calendar Miriam Molnár, Peter Nagy, Lukáš Onderčanin, Ján Pallo, Jitka Parobeková, Chris Perkins, Jaroslav Pilát, Christian Prandl, Martina Q animals of events airport Raabová, Erik Rédli, Michal Rengevič, Amanda Rivkin, Lucia Rusnáková, Lenka Sabová, Martin Sárossy, Natália Semianová, Stanislava itinerary N cable car Smadišová, Martina Smolková, Peter Snadík, Tibor Somogyi, Jaroslav Stankovič, Donald Stoll, Patricia Stoll, Ján Svrček, Howard page references for sights described Swains, Vladimír Šimíček, Viera Šramková, Miro Švec, Emanuele Terenzani, James Thomson, Lukáš Varšík, Jana Vašašová, Viktória in greater detail elsewhere in the guide hiking Vincejová, Carmen Virágová, Gabriela Zigová; media: Korzár, SITA, SME, TASR  population spa photo permissions from companies and institutions: Abeland, Amade Château, AquaCity Poprad, Balónová fiesta, Black River Golf Drawings of 28 Selection of top i i information centre wine Resort, CBS Maľované mapy , Dubova Colonorum, EnjoyRacing, Ernest Zmeták Art Gallery Nové Zámky, Galéria mesta Bratislavy, historical monuments hotels and restaurants Galéria Jána Koniareka, Golf International, Golf Park Rajec, Gray Bear Golf Resort, Historické múzeum - Slovenské národné múzeum, ¤ events park, natural beauty Hubert, J&J Ostrožovič, Košice Gurmán Fest, Maratónsky klub Košice, Milosrdné sestry Svätého kríža, Múzeum Stará Ľubovňa, Múzeum Bojnice - Slovenské národné múzeum, Múzeum mesta Bratislavy, National Science and Technology Medals Foundation, Park Snow Donovaly, Penati Golf Resort, Plte na Orave, Privat Juma, Ranč u Trapera, Simplicissimus vydavateľstvo, Skalica Golf Resort, ConVeRsions Ski Kubínská hoľa, Slovakia Ring, Slovenská národná galéria, Slovenská správa jaskýň, Slovenské elektrárne, Slovenské národné Distances temperature Weight múzeum, Smolenice village, Sosna, Spa Piešťany, Spa Rajecké Teplice, Spa Sklenené Teplice, Sygic, TIC Senec, Tatry Mountain 1 km = 0.62 mile (km = mile / 0.62137) 0°C = 32°F (°C = (°F -32)/1.8) 1 kg = 2.2 lb (kg = lb/2.2046) Resorts, Volkswagen Slovakia, Východoslovenské múzeum, White Eurovalley Golf Park, www.slovakmountainguide.sk, XCHNG, 1 mile = 1.61 km (mile = km x 0.62137) 32°F = 0°C (°F = °C x 1.8+32) 1 lb = 0.45 kg (lb = kg x 2.2046) Zaježová, Židovské komunitné múzeum Copy editors: Benjamin Cunningham, Russel Lunday, Donald Stoll, Patricia Stoll, Jeff Whiteaker; maps: CBS Painted maps (CBS Maľované mapy), Kartografie HP. Drawings of architectural monuments are the work of the following authors: Bratislava Castle, Includes © 2014 The Rock, s.r.o. All rights reserved. Any reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited by the construction and drawing Bouda a Masár architektonická kancelária, s.r.o.; St Martin’s Cathedral, digital drawings Vojtech Jakab, pull-out map law. The authors of the articles published in this issue, represented by the publisher, reserve the right to give their approval architecture student; Old Town Hall, construction and drawing Martina Poláková, architecture student; creative design Pavol Martinický, architect; change of proportions and structures Peter Horanský, conservationist; Primate’s Palace, construction and drawing Tomáš for reproducing and public transmission of articles marked © The Slovak Spectator/ Spectacular Slovakia as well as for the ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2 Flak, design student; Jelka – Watermill on Posts, construction and drawing Gabriel Gyenes, architecture student; Častá – Castle Červený public circulation of reproductions of these articles in compliance with the 33rd article and 1st paragraph of the Copyright Law. Kameň, construction and drawing Michal Škrovina jun., architect; Topoľčianky – Manor House, construction and drawing Miroslava since Media Monitoring is provided by Newton, IT, SMA and Slovakia Online with the approval of the publisher. Advertising material Kemeňová, architecture student; Svätý Anton – Manor House, digital imaging Lukáš Cesnak, architecture student; creative finishing 1995 The Slovak Spectator contained herein is the responsibility of the advertiser and is not written or implied sponsorship, endorsement or investigation and changes Iveta Chovanová, architect; finishing Peter Horanský, conservationist. All other historical monuments are done by Matúš of such commercial enterprises or ventures by The Slovak Spectator or The Rock, s.r.o., ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2; Pniak based on photos by CBS Painted maps (CBS Maľované mapy) and Fly media. ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2 Slovak news you can trust content Address: The Rock, s.r.o. Lazaretská 12, 811 08 Bratislava advisor

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0_obálka rozkres_2014.indd 1 Obalka_solo.inddPDF_spec.indd 1 3 12.4. 9. 9. 2014 2014 14:09:57 11:47:28 Obalka_solo.indd 2 4. 9. 2014 13:43:02 4. 9. 2014 15:27:44