RICHEMONT NET SOARS/2 ANN TAYLOR LOFT’S BIG ARRIVAL/11 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • November 20, 2006 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Full Scallop Charm starts from the inside out. When it comes to the season’s bras and panties, the attractive elements are sheer fabrics in a soft palette and a little bow here, delicate embroidery there. Here, Pfi ff’s scallop-edged nylon and Lycra spandex bra and bikini bottoms. Calvin Klein Home’s cashmere blanket. For more lingerie, see pages 6 and 7.

All Ready and Waiting: Stores Prep for Big Rush As Black Friday Nears By David Moin and Sharon Edelson

ANO.COM; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN STYLED BY ANO.COM; lack Friday is getting brighter. PRI B Though holiday sales results are ultimately unpredictable and determined by the inevitable last- minute rush to malls, retailers are surprisingly upbeat about the outlook,

AS, BOTH FOR ARTISTSBYTIMOTHY predicting significant sales gains. “Everything seems to be very well aligned,” said Jane Elfers, chief executive officer of Lord & Taylor. “We are in an apparel cycle right now.” There are plenty of indications they

USH AND MAKEUP BY MICHELLE YUR USH AND MAKEUP BY have the wind at their backs: Sales have been strong so far this fall, despite mild temperatures in the Northeast; the See Retailers, Page 15 /ELITE; HAIR BY JACQUELINE B /ELITE; HAIR BY PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: JO PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 WWD.COM Richemont Profi ts Surge By Samantha Conti WWDMONDAY Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear LONDON — Booming sales of jewelry, leather accessories and luxury clothing at Compagnie Financière Richemont drove net profits up 22 FASHION percent to 645 million euros, or $815.9 million, on A sultry palette, subtly alluring shapes and lots of lace make for a gently a 15.7 percent rise in sales to 2.3 billion euros, or 6 sensual lingerie season, giving off a slightly nostalgic, fl irtatious air. $2.91 billion, in the first half ended Sept. 30. This compares with net profi ts of 529 million euros, or $655.9 million, on sales of 1.99 billion GENERAL euros, or $2.47 billion, in the corresponding period Though holiday season sales results are ultimately unpredictable, some a year earlier. Currency conversions were made at 1 retailers are predicting signifi cant gains and counting key categories. average exchange rates for the respective periods. Booming sales of jewelry, leather accessories and luxury clothing drove The company said in a statement Friday that 2 Richemont’s net up 22 percent to $815.9 million in its fi scal fi rst half. nearly all product categories registered double- digit sales increases worldwide, and that Dunhill Montblanc has been expanding its scope. Clover Corp., which has owned Robert Lee Morris Inc. since 1998, has and Lancel — both of which are undergoing a re- increased 11 percent, boosted by the company’s 2 parted ways with its founding affi liate, M. Fabrikant & Sons. launch — had performed well. recent purchase of its retail network in China. At BEAUTY: Clinique has its eye on a greater share of the moisturizing Executive chairman Johann Rupert said in Lancel, sales climbed 10 percent. Losses at Dunhill 3 market with the January launch of All About Eyes Rich. the statement that Richemont’s performance for and Lancel were more than halved in the period, the full 2006-07 fi scal year would be “signifi cantly the company said. INNERWEAR: The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show made its Hollywood ahead” of last year, despite tough comparisons “We’re starting to see Dunhill turn a corner, al- 8 debut to a crowd used to scanty outfi ts, red carpets and paparazzi. with fi scal 2005-06. though it’s still early days, and we won’t be turn- ACCESSORIES: Isaac Mizrahi has gone high-low and has now found In the statement, he said strong consumer ing a profi t there this year,” said Grieve. “There 9 middle ground in a handbag line for his Isaac Isaac Mizrahi bridge label. demand at retail, coupled with double-digit were stupid mistakes made in the past — with late sales growth in markets such as Asia-Pacifi c, the deliveries, for example — and we’ve been trying FINANCIAL: The fl urry of M&A activity that started in late 2005 is expected Americas and Europe, contributed to strong half- to play catch-up. But we’ve been tightening up the 12 to continue through 2007 for the retail and apparel sector. year results. “During the fi rst half of the year, ship, and we’re optimistic.” Richemont has benefi ted from strong demand in Grieve also said brands such as Cartier and its major markets,” said Rupert. Montblanc rapidly have been developing their leath- EYE “The group has a globally diversifi ed clien- er accessories businesses. “We’re getting to grips with There was no shortage of unsolicited friendly advice at Thursday’s tele and has demonstrated its capacity to develop leather goods as a proper product area,” he said. 4 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund awards dinner at Skylight Studios. quickly in new market areas — for example, China Sales at Richemont’s “other businesses” cat- and Russia — at the same time as achieving good egory, which includes Chloé, rose 46 percent, and Classifi ed Advertisements...... 16-19 growth in established markets,” he added. Rupert said in the statement that Chloé doubled To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. However, Richemont spokesman Alan Grieve its sales in the period, thanks to retail store open- said the company was not expecting the 16 per- ings and the broadening of its product ranges. [email protected], using the individual’s name. cent sales growth it witnessed during last year’s Geographically, all regions performed well, WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Christmas season. He said the company would not with sales in Asia-Pacifi c rising 20 percent, fol- VOLUME 192, NO. 107. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one be surprised by growth along the lines of 11 per- lowed by the Americas with 19 percent, Europe additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and three cent in the coming months. with 18 percent and Japan with 14 percent. additional issues in February, April, and September by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. Indeed, in the month of October, overall sales With regard to future acquisitions, Grieve was PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and C.O.O.; grew by 11 percent. “November and December are tight-lipped. Over the past 18 months, Richemont Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David critical months for us, and barring any avian fl us has been whittling down its brand portfolio to focus Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice Presi- or terrorist attacks, we can build on the momen- on its core jewelry, watch and accessories busi- dent_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. tum in the fi rst half. But you can never be sure; nesses, and has sold off companies including men’s Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. we’re not in the business of selling cigarettes or wear fi rm Hackett and Paris retailer Old England. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RT0001. Canada post return undeliverable baked beans, and we constantly rely on our cus- Last month, Richemont purchased Minerva, Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, tomers’ feel-good factor,” he said. the Swiss specialist watch parts maker, and ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR Richemont said jewelry sales in the fi rst half Richemont’s strategy going forward is to focus on DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four rose by 13 percent, with double-digit growth re- its core businesses. weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other ported by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Sales “We do lots of little acquisitions aimed at devel- U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. from Richemont’s specialist watchmakers rose 14 oping our competence and business areas. We’re First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, percent, while those of writing instrument compa- really building on that,” said Grieve. and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To nies rose 24 percent. With regard to larger, branded companies Grieve subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make The fl agship brand in the writing category is said Richemont is always looking — although it may our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would Montblanc, which Grieve said has moved to a new not be keen to buy just yet. “Everything out there interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. level. “It’s no longer a pen manufacturer — it’s be- seems very expensive right now, although we are WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- coming a global luxury lifestyle brand,” he said. always looking at attractive possibilities,” he said. SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- At Richemont’s leather and accessories hous- “We get thousands of approaches every year and ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, es, sales rose 10 percent. At Alfred Dunhill, sales very few come to fruition.” OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED

MONDAY: Nordstrom Inc. and Phillips-Van Heusen Clover, Robert Lee Morris Split From Fabrikant Corp. report third-quarter sales and earnings. TUESDAY: Coldwater Creek, J. Crew Group and Perry Ellis By Jennifer Hirshlag Clover II Corp., which will serve as kitchen. We are now a leaner, International report third-quarter sales and earnings. the business umbrella for Clover meaner, tighter machine.” Clover Corp., which has owned II and Robert Lee Morris. The Morris has been busy this fall. THURSDAY: Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade Robert Lee Morris Inc. since 1998, original Clover will cease to exist. Last month, he launched an e-com- has parted ways with its founding Clover II will take over much of merce Web site and two jewelry FRIDAY: Exit-Exportitalia, Bologna, Italy (through affiliate, M. Fabrikant & Sons. the former fi rm’s operations, in- collections based on Andy Warhol, Saturday). Fabrikant sold the assets and cluding wholesaling jewelry to the Andy Warhol by Robert Lee certain liabilities of Clover to enti- QVC, J.C. Penney and Sam’s Club, Morris line and the more pricy SUNDAY: Moda Prima, Milan (through Nov. 28). ties owned by Lester Friedlander, among other customers. Factory X assortment. Morris also a former officer of Clover and Friedlander said the manage- collaborated with Donna Karan COMING THIS WEEK Robert Lee Morris Inc. Terms of ment group and staff at the two and the Estée Lauder Cos. on the the sale were not disclosed. fi rms — Clover II and Robert Lee new DK Gold fragrance, and with Friedlander will now form Morris — would stay the same; Catherine Malandrino on jewelry Robert Lee Morris’ will remain for her spring collection. In Brief creative director. Friedlander Morris, which signed a li- will become president of Clover cense last year with Warner II. He added the companies will Bros. to create jewelry for the ● FEDERATED CLOSURE: Federated Department Stores Inc. operate individually on the front “Superman” movie series and will close three distribution centers in Minneapolis, Kansas end, but will share back-end func- other DC Comics heroes, said City and Warren, Mich., in early 2007. The centers were pur- tions such as shipping. The head- there are other licenses in the chased in 2005 in The May Department Stores Co. acquisition. quarters will continue to be at works that may include home The closings affect 296 workers. Other centers in the region will 233 Spring Street in Manhattan. goods. He said he would begin pick up the volume. In addition, Federated plans to reduce the “We are delighted to fi nally remodeling the space at 400 workforce at distribution centers in several Midwest centers, be independent and free to West Broadway in January to ac- affecting about 240 jobs. pursue our businesses with 100 commodate his various lines percent zeal for the fi rst time,” Friedlander said as a result of ● NHL FLAGSHIP: The National Hockey League and Reebok said Morris. “Both our fi rms are the restructuring, Clover hoped announced plans to open a Manhattan flagship for fall 2007. growing quickly and we have a to increase its fashion business to The 6,700-square-foot retail store, at 1185 Sixth Avenue, will lot of plans on our plates that help its retailers offer more niche carry a wide selection of NHL-licensed and Reebok branded would be hampered if there products. M. Fabrikant & Sons de- apparel, outerwear, footwear and equipment. were too many cooks in the clined to comment on the sale. WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 3 WWD.COM Crown Risdon Sold Philadelphia Fashion Honors Galanos eading cosmetic packaging and components manufacturer By Pam Lazor LCrown Risdon was sold to private investors on Friday for an un- disclosed amount. PHILADELPHIA — Neither heavy rains nor wicked Private investors, doing business as Tea House Partners Ltd., winds kept Philadelphia fashion followers away purchased Risdon from Crown Holdings to create a new, expanded Thursday evening as they came out to fete design- global packaging group, said Steve Pearlman, president of Risdon. er James Galanos. The partnership will use Risdon as the base for moving into other Galanos, a city native, was inducted into areas of the cosmetics packaging industry. “We will become the plat- the Philadelphia Fashion Hall of Fame by the form company for expansion,” he said. Philadelphia Fashion Council, presented by the Risdon supplies the industry with primary packaging compo- Antoinette Westphal College of Media Arts & nents including cosmetics caps and closures, eye care products, lip- Design at Drexel University and sponsored by sticks, lip gloss and compacts. Tiffany & Co. and Neiman Marcus. The celebra- Pearlman will continue to head the new company, called Risdon tion also served as a benefi t for Drexel’s design International Inc. He will be joined in the venture by James Adams, programs and the Historic Costume Collection. Sidney Kimmel, James Galanos vice president of operations, and Faqueer Ahmad, executive vice Galanos is the fi rst inductee of what will be a and Caroline Kimmel. president, international. The company’s sales group will also re- biennial award. Cocktails at Tiffany on Walnut main the same. Street kicked off the evening, followed by dinner “We are very excited at the historic Union League. Overlooking the James Galanos about this new relation- room was a stage fi lled with 25 Galanos-dressed gowns on display. ship to build on our past mannequins, examples of 40 years of the design- BEAUTY BEAT success and signifi cantly er’s work, from 1950 through the Nineties. expand both our product The award is bestowed on a designer who lines and our market presence in Asia and Europe,” Pearlman said has made a deep impact on the fashion industry. in a statement. “The new ownership has a thorough understanding Caroline and Sidney Kimmel, chairman of Jones of our products and these markets and is an ideal partner for Risdon Apparel Group, were benefi t chairmen. The dean as we embark on a new era in the company’s development.” of the Antoinette Westphal College of Media Arts Risdon will maintain its corporate headquarters in Watertown, & Design, Allen Sabinson, presented Galanos with Conn. The company also operates manufacturing facilities in the award, calling him “a true fashion icon” and Watertown, Middletown, N.Y., Laconia, N.H., Barrie, Ontario, and “an inspiration to anyone who is moved by fash- Reynosa, Mexico. The new entity will add an offi ce in Shanghai. ion, by beauty and by elegance.” Risdon’s customers include most of the industry’s major cosmet- The room was fi lled with Galanos fans, many ics and fragrance brands. wearing his gowns. Guests included Ralph — Liza Casabona Rucci, Sandra Blumberg, Barbara Brown, Judith Palestini, Melba Pearlstein, Rita Rome, Claire Rose and Gerry Sills, with Renée Weiss Chase, Kathi Martin, Lisa Hayes and David Toll of Drexel More Clinique All About Eyes University. linique has its eye on a greater share of the moisturizing market. Although he offi cially retired from the fashion C The beauty giant plans to launch All About Eyes Rich, a more industry in the late Nineties, Galanos embarked intensive version of its best-selling All About Eyes eye cream, in on a new chapter of design and creativity, produc- January. ing a new collection through a camera lens. “While All About Eyes, a gel-cream, is one of our top sellers, con- “I had accomplished what I wanted to in fash- sumers told us that they wanted a product that is a little more mois- ion and started to do photography. It’s a different turizing and that also addressed dark circles and puffi ness,” said point of view,” he said. Galanos recently had an Jon and Jill Powell and Barbara Ellen Greenwald, executive director, global marketing treatment, exhibition of his photographs at the Serge Sorokko Nipon-Spencer and Craig Spencer.

for Clinique. “As a result, we developed All About Eyes Rich.” The Gallery in San Francisco. & MASSA KELLY PHOTOS BY cream’s key ingredient is the aptly named Eyebright, extracted from a plant used in ancient times to promote eye health. “It’s known to soothe and calm irritation,” said Greenwald, calling it “the perfect RAIN CHECK: Rain may be enough to deter guests, ingredient.” The formula also includes glycosaminoglycans and phy- but it took a Calvin Klein trunk show in Milan to keep tosphingosine, said to strengthen the skin’s structure and help hide Fashion Scoops honorary host Francisco Costa away from Nov. 16’s the appearance of dark circles, and a triple cocktail of lipids, said to Fashion for Action benefi ting Housing Works Thrift restore maximum hydration to the eye area. Optical diffusers, said VERSACE WALKS ON: Donatella Versace and the late Shops. The third annual benefi t has been cursed with to immediately minimize the appearance of fi ne lines and wrinkles, Gianni Versace will be the ninth and 10th recipients stormy nights every year, and guests brave enough are also in the mix. of the Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award, in a ceremony to traipse between the silent auction at the Rubin Greenwald doesn’t expect the new formulation to impinge upon to take place Feb. 8, the Rodeo Drive Committee Museum of Art in Manhattan’s Chelsea neighborhood All About Eyes’ business. “We think we’ll get both new custom- and the City of Beverly Hills will reveal today. The and the Housing Works Thrift Shop across the street, ers and that many of our exist- ongoing award, inaugurated in 2003 with Giorgio where they scoured designer clothing donations, used ing customers will choose to use Armani, honors past and present style legends for umbrellas smartly purchased that day by Matthew this at night because it’s a richer their contributions to the worlds of fashion and Bernardo, president of Housing Works Thrift Shops. formula,” she said. “All About entertainment. Each individual receives a plaque on Rain did not deter everyone, and $100,000 was Eyes Rich isn’t meant to replace the fabled street bearing their signature and quote. raised — 25 percent more than last year. Adam All About Eyes. It’s intended to Most recently, Salvatore Ferragamo was feted on Oct. Lippes of adampluseve made it and donated pieces broaden the franchise.” 8. Previous honorees are Edith Head, James Acheson, — perhaps a safer bet than his sample sale, where All About Eyes Rich will retail Milena Canonero, Herb Ritts, Mario Testino and Tom earlier this week he wrestled with shoplifters who tried for the same amount as its sister Ford. The ceremonies take place more than once a to smuggle thousands of dollars worth of apparel in product: $27.50. In the U.S., it will year, as the city realized it has several blocks to fi ll their underwear. be sold in Clinique’s full distribu- in order to catch up to Hollywood Boulevard’s Walk of tion of some 2,000 department and Fame. LOVE FOR SALE: Caviar just became even more specialty store doors. fashionable. Retired couturier Yves Saint Laurent National advertising breaks GOLDEN VIEW: Asim and Isha Abdullah — owners has pitched in at Pierre Bergé’s Prunier franchise in February fashion, beauty of Emanuel Ungaro — last week opened their San by designing a special heart-shape caviar box for and lifestyle magazines, includ- Francisco penthouse to a local fashion legend of sorts, the holidays. It features one of his treasured “Love” ing In Style, Allure, Glamour, O the Junior League. Since 1926, Bay Area League designs that he typically uses for his holiday greeting The Oprah Magazine and Vogue. ladies have thrown a spring fashion show fund-raiser. cards — accent on treasure. The stylish box retails Clinique’s new Clinique also plans to distribute To honor donors to the upcoming March 24 event, Isha for 375 euros, or about $480, and contains 4 oz. of All About Eyes Rich. more than three million samples Abdullah hosted a French tea, with stunning views of made-in-France house caviar. Richer still is a gift set both in-store and in national mag- the city, bay and Golden Gate Bridge as backdrops. that includes 8 oz. of caviar, a Prunier history book and azine advertising. While Greenwald would not comment on project- A string quartet played, and at one point guest and an Edgar Allen Poe poetry CD for 750 euros, or $960. ed sales or advertising spending, industry sources estimate that All opera buff John Houghton performed “La Vie en Rose” Printemps’ new Haussman store food corner, due to About Eyes Rich will do about $10.5 million at retail in its fi rst year a cappella. bow Nov. 24, is slated to carry the heart-shape treats. on counter and that about $2 million will be spent on advertising “I love beautiful clothes,” said a soft-spoken and promotion in the same time frame. Abdullah, wearing a knee-length gauzy navy blue DRINK TO THIS: Paolo Bulgari knows his rubies In other Clinique news, the brand is currently waging a sig- chiffon Ungaro dress with cap sleeves and a back and diamonds, but now he’s eyeing gems such as nifi cant promotional and advertising program for its venerable cutout. Abdullah, a physician, was standing in her Sangiovese and trebbiano. The family patriarch and Three-Step Skincare collection, said to do upward of $180 million Pacifi c Heights living room accented with an art chairman of the Rome jeweler is busy setting up at retail yearly in the U.S. alone (and accounting for more than 14 collection of masters from the Indian subcontinent. his own vineyard on a 49-acre plot in Tuscany’s San percent of Clinique’s overall U.S. business). The campaign, which She said she hasn’t been involved in the Ungaro Casciano dei Bagni, near Siena. Bulgari and his son, began in September, includes national print advertising, televi- business, since her husband, a venture capitalist and Giovanni, are working with famed enologist Riccardo sion and radio advertising and mailers, outdoor billboards, street Internet entrepreneur, last year rescued the venerable Cotarella to determine what grape varietals will win teams, education rallies and even cable-car ads in San Francisco, and indebted fashion house. She attends the Paris over wine buffs. “It’s diffi cult to know what people’s noted Alicia Sontag, executive director of North American mar- runway shows, but the fi rst time she sees a collection tastes will be in three to four years’ time, but it’s fun,” keting for Clinique. She added that Clinique is partnering with is during model fi ttings. As for her own wardrobe, says Bulgari, who’s happy to have a diversion from its top retailers, including Macy’s and Dillard’s, in the effort. A Abdullah said she also dresses down, and before the the boardroom. He plans to harvest his fi rst fruit in microsite, doyousayyes.com, is also live now. As well, Clinique is party was wearing jeans, a hoodie, fl ip-fl ops and big 2009. “With agriculture, you need a lot of patience, planning to do the largest sampling campaign in the brand’s 38- sunglasses. “I’m not a snob,” laughed the petite but I enjoy it because it’s very different from what I do year history. Abdullah. “I’m a mother of two and a physician.” professionally,” he said. — Julie Naughton 4 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 WWD.COM

Doo-Ri Chung Derek Lam with Michelle Williams in Derek Lam at CFDA.

Cecilia Dean in Rodarte Consuelo at CFDA. Castiglioni Olive Garden in Marni. NEW YORK — “If you are in this business, at some point you are going to have to eat something, and that thing is called humble pie,” new CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg told the crowd at the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund awards dinner Penélope Cruz in Marchesa Thursday. Not that humility was the dish of the day. with Diane von Furstenberg. The young designers gathered nervously and mingled with the mighty at Skylight Studios, which was outfi tted in a veritable forest of olive branches (both literal and fi gurative) for the occasion. And they were met with no shortage of unsolicited yet friendly advice. Marc Jacobs described the fi ts and starts of his career — being a Charivari stock boy, getting “so fi red” after the Perry Ellis grunge episode, buying a garage on what was a then-deserted Mercer Street, and enduring “a nightmarish fi rst year at Louis Vuitton,” among others. Earlier, during cocktails, Valentino talked about his salad days. “I worked alone for decades. Even though I have assistants now, I still do everything,” said the designer, who upon entering the party was warmly embraced by the evening’s hostess, Anna Wintour. The Wintour warmth extended into the rest of the night as von Furstenberg paid homage to the Vogue editor. “Before I say anything, I think I should say everyone is intimidated by Anna Wintour. But once you know Anna, you know she is very warm, very loving and she cares.” Mary-Kate Nevertheless, the youngsters spent the cocktail hour trying to Olsen in quiet their nerves. “I’m on my third glass of Champagne,” Halston admitted nominee Thakoon Panichgul. and Ashley There was clearly much at stake, as certain members Olsen in of the glam crowd made their loyalties known. Lisa Airan Calvin Klein arrived in a poufy Rodarte frock, while Cecilia Dean Collection. swanned around in one of the designers’ more languid creations. And the evening’s biggest star, Penélope Cruz, wore her preferences on her sleeve — literally, as she was decked out in a one-shoulder Marchesa dress. The actress may have had plenty of practice in front of audiences, but she promised she was no pro when it came to public speaking. “I always get nervous — I just hope I don’t screw up.” She handled Anna it with aplomb as she presented the night’s winner, Doo-Ri Wintour Chung, with the top award. No one was more surprised than in Chanel Milla Chung herself. But getting one of the prizes, a key to a Lexus, Haute Jovovich really fl oored her. “I just wish I had a license,” she said. “But Couture. at CFDA. I’m sure someone will use it.” The night before, while Marni designer Consuelo Kate and Castiglioni was being feted uptown at Bergdorf Goodman, Laura models, designers and PYTs streamed into the Gramercy Mulleavy at Park Hotel for a fete in honor of Mary-Kate and Ashley CFDA. Olsen, stars of the latest (and fi rst ever) split cover of Teen Vogue. But it was Ashley’s newly brunette do that had everyone talking. “I got bored,” she shrugged. Next week, however, the diminutive pair will be busy as they head home for the holidays, where apparently they will have a large hand in the annual feast. “I’ve mastered Thanksgiving,” stated Ashley of her cooking skills. “I make the side dishes!” piped in Mary-Kate, who eschewed the Champagne in favor of a cappuccino.

The dinner scene at Skylight Studios. Marc Jacobs

Thakoon Panichgul with Tina Chai, in Thakoon. Ellen Barkin in L’Wren Olivier Lily Cole Scott at Theyskens in Rodnik CFDA. at CFDA. at CFDA. OLSEN PHOTO BY KRISTEN SOMODY; ALL OTHERS BY STEVE EICHNER ALL OTHERS BY KRISTEN SOMODY; OLSEN PHOTO BY NOT ALL CONSTELLATIONS ARE IN THE SKY

MOISSANITE... BORN FROM A STAR Offering more brilliance than any other jewel, Moissanite was discovered in tiny particles taken from a meteor crater by the French scientist Dr. Henri Moissan in 1893. A century later, this remarkable find inspired our fiery Moissanite collection of fine jewelry. Now you can discover for yourself a jewel of incomparable beauty that is second in hardness only to the diamond – discover Moissanite! To shop our entire Moissanite collection, visit hsn.com (keyword: born from a star).

TUNE IN NOVEMBER 20 3am, 1pm & 9pm ET 6 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 WWD.COM

Romantically Inclined A sultry palette, subtly alluring shapes and lots of lace make for a gently sensual lingerie season. The looks have a slightly nostalgic fl irtatious air.

Hanky Panky’s nylon lace bra with Only Hearts’ nylon and spandex slip. Sethi & Sethi’s beaded silk shawl. Fornarina shoes. ANO.COM; FASHION ASSISTANT: CAMERON KERSHAW; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN STYLED BY CAMERON KERSHAW; ASSISTANT: FASHION ANO.COM; PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: JO/ELITE; HAIR BY JACQUELINE BUSH AND MAKEUP BY MICHELE YURAS, BOTH FOR ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRI MICHELE YURAS, JACQUELINE BUSH AND MAKEUP BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; MODEL: JO/ELITE; HAIR BY PHOTOS BY WWD, NOVEMEBER, MONDAY 20, 2006 7 WWD.COM

Rosamosario’s silk bra and thong under Sethi & Sethi’s nylon net.

Josie Natori’s nylon and polyester lace camisole, bra and shorts.

Felina’s polyester and nylon mesh bra with nylon and Lycra spandex panties. Sethi & Sethi’s silk pillow. 8 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 WWD.COM Innerwear Report

The Coquettish Justin Timberlake takes a Fetish statement. gander at Victoria’s Secret’s Femme Fetal theme.

Victoria’s Secret Goes Hollywood By Marcy Medina HOLLYWOOD — The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show made its Hollywood debut Thursday night at the Kodak Theater for a crowd well-versed in scanty outfits, long red carpets and hordes of paparazzi. “Los Angeles is the capital of entertainment and our show is the height of entertainment,” said Victoria’s Secret executive producer Edward Razek. “The show doesn’t need to be staged in New York like a traditional fashion show because our audience isn’t buyers and editors, it’s customers, the majority of which are women.” That didn’t stop French Vogue’s Carine Roitfeld, or a slew Pink does a rah-rah The Scottish of very interested men — including Derek Jeter, Quincy Jones, cheerleader look. Highland fl ing Stavros Niarchos, Alex von Furstenberg and Kevin Connelly — gets a new twist. from attending. Although Razek said the decision to move the show west after 10 years in New York was partly based on feedback from Los Angeles-based entertainment fi gures who wanted to be there, the 1,000 faces that fi lled the theater were a bit less A-list than an Oscar-night crowd. “American Pie” star Jason Biggs sat next to Alyssa Milano in the front row, along with “Grey’s Anatomy” stars Sarah Ramirez and Justin Chambers. The second row was reserved for the likes of “Dancing With the Stars” runner-up Stacy Keibler, and playboys such as Harry Morton were relegated to row three. It seemed like the rest of Hollywood was in Rome for the wedding of Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes. The $12 million, 20-minute show, which will be broadcast on CBS as a one-hour special on Dec. 5, was fi lled with “Angels,” in- cluding Gisele Bündchen, Karolina Kurkova, Alessandra Ambrosio and Adriana Lima, along with 23 other models who were serenaded by Justin Timberlake singing “SexyBack.” The basic bras and panties were embellished with diamonds, crystal and feathers in themes ranging from futuristic warrior and naughty stewardess to Scottish sexpot and a Marie Antoinette coquette. And those attending seemed pleased with the results. “Please don’t write about me if I make a fool of myself over this,” said former Los Angeles Laker Rick Fox. As for the ladies, Paris Hilton uttered her signature “That’s hot,” during Timberlake’s choreographed medley. While stylist Charlotte Stockdale said she and designer Todd Thomas “create the fantasy,” the themes are meant to address what’s relevant in fashion now, as well as forecast the direction of the merchandise. To that end, Victoria’s Secret’s year-old Pink line, a mix of loungewear, activewear and intimates targeted to teens and col- lege students, had its runway moment, as well. But some pieces, such as the Hearts on Fire Diamond Fantasy Bra, remain a fan- tasy for most women, with a price tag of $6.5 million.

At least in Hollywood, sparklers can be borrowed for the night. SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 9 WWD.COM Accessories Report Isaac Handbags Bridging the Gap By Jennifer Hirshlag has a defi nitive point of view that he brings to the marketplace. That, coupled with his tal- NEW YORK — For Isaac Mizrahi, there’s high fashion, low fashion ent in delivering a real personality to each and now a middle ground, too. design, is a winning combination.” The designer has unveiled a collection of handbags under his The bags, which will hit stores in Isaac Isaac Mizrahi bridge label, and he said more categories soon March for the spring selling season, could follow. focus on what Mizrahi said is missing in “It’s always hard to talk specifi cally about the goals of my com- the marketplace right now: a combina- pany, but we’re building something here,” he said, sitting among tion of tailoring and soft construction. the handbags in a sun-fi lled conference room within his studio in “While we have one or two pieces Chelsea here, just a day before presenting what he calls his cou- that are tailored, most of the looks ture and semicouture apparel collection. “It’s starting to be the are amorphous with a little structure world of Isaac.” to them,” he explained. “It’s ladylike, The collection of about 25 handbag silhouettes joins a footwear which is the edgiest thing in the world line that has been in existence since 1996. The Fashion House Inc. right now.” Isaac Mizrahi took over that license for the footwear from GFW Group in March. Bags are designed mostly from supple The shoes retail from $200 to $300 through department and special- matte leathers or combinations of patent ty stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman, as well leathers with canvas or suedes with can- as at Zappos.com. vas. Silhouettes include totes, duf- The handbags, which are being created under a license with the fels, oversized satchels, purses Accessory Network Group, will target similar department and spe- and clutches, while colors range cialty store distribution. Prices will range from $395 to $895. While from neutrals such as black, Mizrahi declined to name what other categories could arise in the chocolate brown, camel and same price point, company president and chief executive offi cer cream to more signature hues Marisa Gardini said growing the department and specialty store such as fuchsia, pink and red. business is central to the fi rm’s focus. Ateyeh said elevating the “When I was in business before, I tried to go into accessories, detailing was crucial to the Isaac Isaac but we were doing it all in-house and it was such a huge job,” said designs. Upscale touches such Mizrahi Mizrahi, who shuttered his designer women’s ready-to-wear label as leather bows and fl ower- handbags. in 1998 and has been carefully orchestrating his return step by step shaped feet are iconic to after fi rst launching a women’s sportswear collection for mass re- Mizrahi, while other accents, tailer Target in 2003, and then the custom line that sells in Bergdorf including painted edges and Goodman in 2004. custom toggles, are added to distinguish the looks. “I’m always designing shoes and bags, but they take on lives “The marketplace was considered when we developed based on opportunities. That’s really why there’s an opportunity this line,” said Mizrahi. “But you won’t fi nd trendy materi- now with this license. It’s been this long, slow process of fi nding the als and designs here. I’m a classicist and I want to design right partners.” classic things.” ANG signed the license to work on Isaac Isaac Mizrahi bags in Mizrahi said he considers accessories to be the motor May. ANG chairman and ceo Abe Chehebar said at that time he pro- driving fashion right now and it has even changed his ap- jected the line to do $1 million to $2 million in sales in its fi rst year. proach to designing clothing. While Chehebar wouldn’t provide an updated fi gure, the fi rm admit- “In order to make yourself fashionable right now, the ted the business is an integral part of its goals to grow ANG’s prestige fi rst things you think about are your bag, your shoes, your division of brands, which includes the wholly owned label Ghurka as hairstyle,” said Mizrahi. “Then everything else looks con- well as the license to produce accessories for Calvin Klein. temporary if you have that right. And what I’m fi nding is that “It is the goal of Accessory Network Group to focus on and devel- clothes are more and more like accessories every day. No op its prestige brands division, and clearly Isaac Mizrahi is an ideal longer do you do groups of meaningless clothes that work to- partner for us,” said Michele Ateyeh, who was named president of gether. Each piece has to feel like it can stand on its own be-

ANG’s prestige brands division this month. “First and foremost, he fore you can even consider how it works within a wardrobe.” ANTONOV PAVEL ERICKSEN; HANDBAGS BY KYLE PHOTO BY MIZRAHI

DOUBLE VISION: When the new Denzel Washington fi lm “Déjà Vu” is released Wednesday, NoLIta jeweler Christie’s to Sell Hélène Arpels Jewels FINDINGS Karen Karch may get quite busy. She designed a pair of platinum and ruby By Sophia Chabbott “Diamonds go with everything.” earrings that is a focal point of the movie. The collection, which is expected to fetch “It’s really exciting to have my jewelry in this movie, especially n a blockbuster year of jewelry auctions, an- $500,000 to $600,000, includes some impressive because the earrings are a hot point in the story,” said Karch, who is Iother patrician’s collection is on the block. pieces: a set of three diamond fl ame brooches stocking up on the style for her Mulberry Street store of the same name. On Dec. 14, Christie’s in New York will auc- from her husband’s fi rm that were fi rst intro- “People will defi nitely remember them after leaving theaters.” tion off 50 pieces of jewelry from the estate of duced in 1934, a Ludo Hexagon platinum and The fi lm tells the story of a government cover-up. Karch celebrated Hélène Arpels, the former wife of Van Cleef & diamond bracelet and a gold Van Cleef & Arpels 10 years in business in September. Arpels scion Louis Arpels. Snowfl ake brooch speckled with Hélène, a native of Monte diamonds. Arpels also owned COCO PEARLS: Chanel Fine Jewelry celebrated the U.S. debut of its Les Carlo, was a Paris doyenne in Hélène Arpels pieces from other jewelers that Perles De Chanel collection this month at the Beverly Hills home of her own right, with a spot on are in the sale, including a Jean Susan and Alan Casden. The lavish cocktail party and dinner were in an the 10 Best Dressed List from Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. all-white tent on the Casdens’ tennis court. 1949 through 1959. She hob- bracelet, several pieces from “When Chanel asked me if we would host this event, it took me nobbed with the likes of Rose Boucheron and Cartier ruby about two seconds to say ‘yes,’” said the hostess, a couture collector Kennedy, Gloria Guinness and and diamond fl ower clips. and avid Chanel fan. Begum Aga Khan. She married Hélène and Louis eventu- The space was transformed into a dinner club complete with Louis Arpels in 1933, and the ally became estranged, but they tufted circular banquettes and huge chandeliers. “It’s like Paris,” said two moved from Paris to the still traded jewelry and style ad- Nicole Richie, who was among the 120 U.S. to establish the com- vice. In 1960, Hélène opened an guests that included Kristin Davis, Kelly pany’s fi rst branch in New Aliata shoe boutique on Madison Carlson, China Chow and Rachel Zoe. York in 1940. Avenue, which later moved to The collection, incorporating pearls, “It’s a fine collec- Park Avenue. She designed diamonds and gold, was displayed in the tion of jewelry, which and sold the shoes to the likes center of the space, where guests could Louis had handpicked of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis try on pieces. for his wife, Hélène,” said The Ludo Hexagon and other Manhattan socialites. “If I can’t get this ring off, does that François Curiel, chairman bracelet from the It has been said Hélène pri- mean I get to keep it?” joked Chow. of Christie’s Europe and Christie’s sale. vately sold many of her jewels The 16-piece, one-of-a-kind collection, the auction house’s head of in her last years and so some which ranges from $35,000 to $395,000 jewelry. He also was a friend signifi cant pieces from her estate aren’t included retail, has been traveling throughout of Hélène’s. She died this year at the age of 97. in the sale. Van Cleef & Arpels has no association Europe and will head next to Louis, 25 years her senior, died in 1976. with the Christie’s sale. New York, where Chanel is “While she was married, they were a power This year has been an exceptional one in jew- expected to host another couple,” Curiel remembered. “She would wear elry sales. In October, Christie’s auctioned the extravaganza on Dec. 12. fabulous jewelry from Van Cleef & Arpels, and baubles of Ellen Barkin, which included 17 piec- they were invited everywhere.” es of JAR jewelry, to the tune of $20.37 million, as Louis often ran jewelry prototypes by his well as some signifi cant diamond pieces from the Far left: China Chow and wife, who was known to wear her jewelry in ex- estate of Joan B. Kroc. In December, Sotheby’s Nicole Richie. Left: Les ceptional ways, such as putting diamond brooch- is auctioning rare Italian Victorian jewelry by Perles De Chanel ring. es on her shoes, demonstrating her catch phrase: Giuliano and Castellani. CHOW AND RICHIE PHOTO BY JOHN SCIULLI/WIREIMAGE CHOW AND RICHIE PHOTO BY 10 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 WWD.COM

Gap (Product) Red

Gap

Gap (Product) Red

Gap

Comfort Cool NEW YORK — “Khakis with an attitude,” is the way Gap describes its look for spring. Indeed, the classic’s influence showed up in everything: cropped trenches, slouchy pants, softly pleated skirts and simple shirt- dresses. While the collection, much of which had a sa- fari influence, is mostly cotton, a few touches of linen and cashmere were added to the mix. A gray cashmere bikini by Gap (Product) Red was particularly charm- ing. Accessories continue to be an important arena for the firm, with ballet flats, sandals and a great oversized leather tote with rope straps key items for spring. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 11 WWD.COM Lofty Times for Ann Taylor By David Moin Inside Loft’s Times Square fl agship. NEW YORK — “We definitely have to keep the music pumped up,” declared Kay Krill, president and chief executive officer of Ann Taylor Stores Corp., as she stood on the expansive split-level selling floor of the new Loft flagship in Times Square last Friday. There was good reason to be energized. It was opening day for the Loft fl agship, by far the chain’s most theatrical and largest location, and the corporation released record results for the third quarter, in what has been a turnaround year. Third-quarter earnings grew 29.7 percent to $39.3 million, or 54 cents a diluted share, from $30.3 million, or 42 cents a diluted share, in the same period last year. Sales for the quarter rose 10.2 percent to $566.3 million from $514 million. Comp-store sales overall were up 2.6 percent in the quarter, with the 355-unit Ann Taylor division up 6.1 percent and the 445-unit Loft chain down 0.9 percent. Based on its third-quarter results, the com- pany raised its guidance for the full year to $2.07 to $2.12 per share from previous esti- mates of $2.05 to $2.10 per share. For the nine- month period ended Oct. 28, earnings bal- looned to $121.5 million, or $1.67 per diluted share, from $54.5 million, or 76 cents per share, on sales that grew 13.3 percent to $1.7 billion from $1.5 billion. “The third quarter was highlighted by Ann Taylor, Ann Taylor Factory and our online business, with each delivering a particularly strong performance,” Krill said in a state- ment. However, “These results were partially as travel and wardrobe bags, and outerwear, including quilted puffers for $129 and offset by a less than robust quarter at Loft, faux shearlings priced at $149, about the highest priced item in the store. The lowest due primarily to softness in the sweater cat- price point is a $15 key chain purse. egory. We look forward to continuing to ex- The store is right below the company’s own executive offi ces which opened a year ecute our growth strategies and to further ago. “We weren’t about to let another retailer get under own corporate headquar- building our Ann Taylor, Loft and Ann Taylor ters,” Krill stated. Factory brands.” Asked how she likes being based in Times Square, she said, “I didn’t think I would The new Loft unit in Times Square may Donna Noce, president love it, but it’s great. It’s very convenient for commuters and we have a cafeteria in help do that. The store is hard to miss, consid- of Loft, with Kay Krill. our headquarters. There’s a lot of energy.” ering it’s 10,000 square feet on 42nd Street be- tween Broadway and Seventh Avenue, atop a subway station where several lines converge, and 8-foot tall letters spell out Loft in the windows. “This is really the fi rst tourist location we have,” Krill said. “This is a great branding experience.” The visuals intensify at night, with the facade’s 90-foot long “rib- bon” of 30,000 lights wrapping around the building. There is more fl ash inside the store, which is almost twice the size of the average 5,500-square-foot Loft unit and is seen as gen- erating over $900 in sales per square foot, or double the corpora- tion’s average unit, which last year generated $461 in sales per square foot. The decor is a nod to Broadway, with vintage elements from the Rootstein mannequins in Bob Fosse-inspired poses to some of the original Radio City seats on the selling fl oor. The fi tting room area replicates the backstage of a theater set, and Playbills are displayed under glass tabletops. Unlike other Loft locations, the fl agship actually seems like a loft, with its 24-foot-high ceiling, exposed brick walls and duct work, and tall wood fi xtures that resemble bookcases. Certain other fi xtures are also unique to the store but might be adapted to future locations, such as a metallic accessory bar that is suspended from the ceiling and resembles a trapeze. The store also merchandises around columns and has a long 20- foot “runway” fi xture in the front, which Krill considers as “a buf- fet” of apparel, shoes, cold-weather accessories and jewelry, with some outfi ts displayed as well. The concept is in all Loft stores, but not as elongated. Loft’s bread and butter categories are relaxed related separates, priced $39 to $59; knit tops from $19 to $39; sweaters at $39 to $69, and pants, $49 to $79. The store also prides itself on providing three- piece outfi ts for around $200, such as printed chiffon dresses, for $99, that go with a $29 velvet evening clutch, and a $59 velvet wrap, or a black velvet silk blouse, $44, with velvet pants, $89, and a cash- mere shrug, $89. There is a 600-square-foot petite section in the fl agship, as well

A ribbon of lights wraps around Loft’s facade. JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY Weekly Stocks 12 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE Financial 79.42 49.98 Abercrombie & Fitch 16.4 198667 71.09 -3.29 27.13 19.41 Acadia 44.4 8088 25.50 0.47 33.01 20.95 Aéropostale 18.9 50051 28.49 -0.32 20.50 17.01 Alberto Culver 18.5 120494 21.43 0.00 3.19 1.88 Alpha Pro Tech 19.3 1314 2.34 -0.03 49.51 19.45 American Eagle Outfitters 20.6 188904 47.33 -0.05 45.15 27.51 Ann Taylor 20.4 160492 36.57 -3.37 10.45 6.17 Ashworth 34.6 4282 7.10 0.12 33.90 25.41 Avon 31.9 86464 33.67 0.53 23.03 9.02 Bakers 26.6 439 13.14 -0.10 26.86 13.05 Bebe 27.1 37023 23.50 -0.01 40.00 21.41 Benetton 46.5 951 35.64 -3.79 16.25 6.66 Big Dog 88.8 153 16.23 0.48 The M&A Boom: M 7.85 5.70 Birks & Mayors 9.5 51 7.25 0.00 33.07 25.18 BJs 17.7 66460 29.61 0.56 46.44 23.73 Blair 13.5 295 30.25 0.03 7.00 1.62 Blue 16.3 7796 2.14 -0.13 1.59 0.68 Bluefly - 7374 0.98 0.10 By Vicki M. Young we are investing typically in underperforming 38.60 17.71 Bon-Ton 342.7 7324 33.79 -0.86 41.95 23.33 Brown Shoe 19.1 10228 39.69 0.20 companies or distressed fi rms so that we are not 45.21 31.75 Buckle 16.5 5439 44.96 5.16 24.61 15.00 Caché 32.6 16004 24.04 1.93 he mergers and acquisitions boom still has a that concerned with consumer confi dence numbers 35.24 21.08 Carter 21.3 35084 28.34 2.02 Tlot of momentum. or comps at Wal-Mart. We are concerned with the 15.10 5.74 Casual Male 27.7 40538 13.50 -1.36 26.70 19.35 Cato 15.2 10518 24.67 1.06 The fl urry of M&A activity, which started in causes of the underperformance of the retailer in 44.30 35.80 CBL 36.3 22313 41.00 0.58 12.74 7.75 CCA 13.3 1666 11.73 0.28 late 2005, is expected to continue through 2007 question and whether they can be turned around 26.29 8.07 Charles & Colvard 25.8 4326 8.24 -0.26 29.41 15.28 Charlotte Russe 17.0 29943 28.44 -0.14 for the retail and apparel sector, particularly as to perform more in line with their peer group.” 15.57 9.69 Charming Shoppes 16.5 81656 14.11 -0.57 48.70 27.99 Chattem 21.2 27409 46.40 -0.06 private equity fi rms are said to be eyeing new tar- But with the frothy valuations of late (EBITDA 45.12 33.65 Cherokee 20.4 2344 43.39 0.39 49.40 17.26 Chico’s 22.2 199028 24.45 1.00 gets, such as Pacifi c Sunwear, Claire’s Stores and multiples are averaging 8.6 percent) and the 71.81 41.81 Children’s Place 25.9 44017 66.29 -3.72 31.25 14.61 Christopher & Banks 21.8 27027 22.46 -0.05 Timberland. competitive heat from private equity fi rms that 45.40 34.57 Cintas 21.6 30267 43.47 1.03 57.85 26.78 Citi Trends 28.9 15720 44.70 1.41 Stein Mart has also surfaced as a potential tar- are chasing the same deals as strategic fi rms, 36.73 23.88 Claire’s Stores 17.1 125297 29.52 2.07 get, according to fi nancial sources. The sources some transactions do fall through. According to 42.67 25.18 Coach 30.5 281568 42.04 3.30 31.26 18.69 Coldwater Creek 54.6 83898 30.25 1.46 said Stein Mart could fetch around $650 million Talarico, if deals fail, they normally fall apart 65.80 53.41 Colgate Palmolive 26.4 99651 66.01 0.77 58.48 42.85 Columbia Sportswear 17.5 12850 58.95 3.01 from a strategic buyer. because of price. “It could be that [deals] fail be- 44.99 17.61 Conns 13.6 5500 24.43 0.96 57.94 46.00 Costco 22.7 169717 53.40 0.50 Pacifi c Sunwear and Stein Mart could not be cause of unrealistic expectations of value, and 9.45 6.44 Cost U Less 11.2 1156 8.30 -0.14 50.25 20.32 Crocs 34.9 123837 46.49 -0.65 reached for comment. Spokeswomen for Claire’s not necessarily because they have gone negative 6.75 4.24 Culp - 719 5.28 0.06 13.48 9.02 Cutter & Buck 18.1 681 10.32 -0.44 Stores and Timberland said neither company on a sector.” And sometimes after due diligence 5.70 1.85 Cygne Designs - 324 2.90 -0.04 32.46 21.34 Deb Shops 16.2 851 26.53 -0.62 comments on market speculation. is done and more information is gathered, buyers 56.36 18.81 Deckers Outdoor 22.0 14841 54.54 1.62 11.55 6.61 Delia’s 73.3 5532 9.60 0.10 Financial sources said that even though there might conclude that the business just isn’t fi xable 20.50 14.60 Delta Apparel 12.2 290 18.45 0.20 10.58 5.92 Delta Galil - 132 10.34 0.58 have been failed auctions, such as Jones Apparel enough to generate a viable return. 62.18 43.08 Developers Diversified 37.7 18857 61.89 1.11 Group’s deciding not to sell itself, retailers, more Still, a trailing off of consumer spending 36.47 20.36 Dillard’s 15.4 156982 35.80 5.79 19.84 12.10 Dollar General 15.9 192578 15.17 1.26 so than apparel fi rms, could be where most of the wouldn’t necessarily be bad for the M&A market. 28.09 13.89 Dress Barn 17.1 29826 21.80 -0.58 37.39 22.53 DSW 27.6 13313 34.25 0.93 action will be next year. “I would expect that it might bring valuations 42.06 20.02 Duckwall-Alco 24.8 199 41.16 -0.14 23.50 6.88 Eddie Bauer - 161473 9.24 0.39 In a recent fi nancial roundtable during the down and make some transactions more reason- 24.58 13.63 Elizabeth Arden 17.2 15340 18.43 -0.03 43.60 32.35 Estée Lauder 27.1 82326 41.04 1.08 WWD/DNR CEO Summit, panelists noted that able,” Talarico predicted. 20.63 6.10 Everlast Worldwide 14.8 914 16.78 0.02 30.91 21.57 Family Dollar 22.0 73686 28.45 0.78 global mergers and acquisition volume reached David Landau, founder and partner of LNK 45.01 31.76 Federated Department Stores 22.8 443842 42.57 1.91 19.29 9.55 Finish Line 16.2 16686 14.35 -0.33 $2.37 trillion in the fi rst nine months of 2006, a Partners, a private equity fi rm focused on the con- 26.16 24.46 Forest City 31.8 40 25.65 0.25 23.84 15.89 Fossil 23.8 20839 22.21 0.14 condition the panelists described as unprecedent- sumer-retail sector, believes that the most impor- 17.70 11.33 Freds 18.1 20735 12.43 0.61 ed. There’s a lot of money fueling this M&A activ- tant factor in any investment is the management 42.95 31.12 G&K 20.7 3630 39.69 0.29 19.98 9.80 Gaiam 94.9 3236 13.90 -0.29 21.39 15.91 Gap 18.7 348127 19.81 -0.38 52.88 41.92 General Growth 242.0 77922 48.34 1.34 43.72 25.50 Genesco 13.3 15316 36.54 -0.07 17.89 6.33 G-III Apparel 77.3 2693 16.88 0.99 54.29 36.24 Gildan Activewear 27.1 7395 54.17 2.97 29.10 23.08 Glimcher 98.5 8289 25.60 1.03 Slowing down? They said that at the beginning of 2006, 11.08 6.29 Gottschalks 42.3 3453 10.98 0.25 65.98 30.65 Guess 27.8 49724 62.44 -1.38 49.11 19.23 Gymboree 25.3 66640 44.32 -2.65 “ 152.00 69.00 Hallwood 4.9 61 90.05 -4.70 and we’re not seeing anything about [M&A activity] being 24.90 11.76 Hampshire 10.1 528 14.99 1.19 24.60 17.75 Hanesbrands - 30588 24.00 1.47 9.97 5.50 Hartmarx 18.9 4930 7.25 0.06 25.29 15.80 Helen of Troy 16.0 10624 24.93 0.96 soft right now. 16.30 9.43 Hot Topic 37.3 111061 12.74 2.08 7.50 0.95 House of Taylor Jewelry - 4989 2.66 0.80 33.92 23.54 IAC Interactive 35.0 93449 33.84 0.44 ” — Frederick Schmitt, The Sage Group 19.18 9.00 Iconix 18.8 15766 16.00 -0.24 1.47 0.37 Innovo - 2656 0.69 0.00 21.75 14.86 Inter Parfums 27.4 2827 21.00 -0.07 35.29 24.00 J. Crew - 22584 33.20 1.65 ity, with more money being raised every day. But team. His fi rm last week invested $61 million in 82.49 51.80 J.C. Penney 17.2 128903 80.10 -0.75 9.20 7.15 Jaclyn 12.3 475 9.19 0.51 will it ever slow down? Ariat International Inc., an equestrian-focused ap- 36.10 27.30 Jones Apparel 21.1 39538 33.75 -0.02 48.12 22.14 Jos. A Bank 15.2 19348 31.14 -0.78 “Slowing down? They said that at the begin- parel and footwear brand. 34.57 22.67 Kellwood 31.7 8341 30.12 0.57 29.60 21.75 Kenneth Cole 18.0 6238 23.76 -0.05 ning of 2006, and we’re not seeing anything about “The key for us is a really strong team that is 67.67 56.59 Kimberly Clark 21.8 89799 66.52 0.53 45.50 30.30 Kimco Realty 29.8 52342 44.15 1.32 it being soft right now,” said Frederick Schmitt, very enthusiastic about the future and wants to re- 75.54 42.78 Kohls 24.8 182027 73.27 -0.42 an investment banker at The Sage Group. “Plus, main invested in the company’s future. There are 37.81 22.54 K-Swiss 15.9 12191 35.74 -0.16 13.98 9.51 LaCrosse Footwear 12.7 245 12.64 -0.23 there’s more money being raised this year on a number of OK management teams out there, but 18.86 11.37 Lakeland Inds 13.8 443 14.55 0.43 32.60 21.24 Limited Brands 16.5 143773 30.80 -1.30 top of what was raised last year — hundreds of we are looking for the few great ones. Also, there 20.21 8.66 Liquidity Services - 17750 19.14 1.27 43.30 33.40 Liz Claiborne 17.0 28023 42.55 -0.31 millions every day. It is unbelievable how much are a number of companies with OK consumer 4.89 2.69 LJ Intl 18.7 10414 4.30 -0.16 31.45 24.17 Luxottica 28.3 6686 31.37 0.43 money has been raised. If you have a fi ve-year in- propositions, but again we are looking for the 80.96 65.31 Macerich 126.0 22827 80.80 2.59 22.84 8.49 Maidenform 19.4 7222 20.60 0.60 vestment horizon, you need to spend it [because great ones. We are looking for a combination of 41.75 26.64 Mens Wearhouse 15.3 105563 38.48 -1.34 26.10 15.20 Marcus 33.1 3645 25.45 0.86 you don’t want to give it back to investors], and a strong brand with great management that is not 8.79 4.91 Mossimo - 0 8.50 0.00 52.21 8.15 Mothers Work 60.2 4005 46.85 -2.29 if the money was raised this year, you may have selling the entire company and wants to stay on to 27.29 17.60 Movado 21.6 4597 26.09 -0.04 1.12 0.50 Movie Star - 8050 1.13 0.35 four-and-a-half years to spend it. [Only if] it was continue to grow the business,” Landau said. 23.54 18.81 National Retail Properties 22.6 14807 22.79 0.68 money raised 2002 [then you might] need to spend Landau noted that because of the amount of 28.93 22.80 New Plan Excel Realty 30.0 21640 27.31 -0.24 22.63 9.41 New York & Co. 18.1 37092 14.20 0.58 it this year.” private equity money industrywide to be invested, 95.93 75.52 Nike 18.3 61927 95.58 1.51 9.19 1.53 Nitches 313.5 807 6.39 -0.12 Schmitt, whose fi rm advises apparel fi rms and M&A dealmaking should continue for some time, 49.52 31.77 Nordstrom 21.1 131468 48.08 1.33 19.03 14.18 Oakley 27.3 7105 18.40 0.33 catalogue-retail operators that are looking for even if there is an economic slowdown. “When the 8.97 1.50 Oralabs 20.7 5812 5.18 0.11 6.00 3.50 Orange 21 - 1894 4.57 0.02 a buyer, thinks buyers will primarily have their economy slows down, this will likely reduce credit 11.55 6.47 Orchids Paper 288.7 33 8.65 0.35 57.58 34.34 Oxford 18.2 6149 52.00 0.12 sights set on retail next year. “I think retail is very availability and debt multiples. This should slow 27.82 13.12 Pacific Sunwear 18.3 117240 18.92 0.36 19.24 4.43 Parlux Fragrances 23.0 30413 6.38 -0.12 popular right now. There was a lot of focus on ap- down the pace of M&A activity somewhat, but not 22.67 17.00 Paxar 19.5 8717 22.08 1.07 28.98 20.36 Payless Shoes 21.2 53893 28.07 -0.24 parel this year, and it will still be strong, but retail to a crawl. I don’t foresee any signifi cant slow- 38.30 18.50 Perry Ellis 17.8 3219 37.16 0.53 will be a focus in the next six to nine months.” down in M&A activity in the near-term,” he said. 49.89 30.55 Phillips-Van Heusen 17.7 40036 47.24 0.68 6.39 3.00 Phoenix Footwear 10.5 3151 3.95 -0.60 If consumers tighten their purse strings next Mitchell Schaffer, managing director and head 15.49 9.30 Playtex 82.8 15454 14.80 0.07 77.37 45.65 Polo Ralph Lauren 21.8 38178 76.26 1.46 year amid a lackluster economy or adjustable- of the Consumer Investment Banking Group at 17.91 7.55 PriceSmart 59.4 4563 17.52 0.34 3.00 1.06 Quaker Fabric - 376 1.15 -0.04 rate mortgage resets, M&A deals in the sector Ryan Beck & Co., said his clients believe the eco- 15.06 11.60 Quiksilver 28.8 59770 14.26 -0.32 36.55 25.81 Ramco-Gershenson 67.6 3964 36.37 2.00 would not be affected, sources said. Companies, nomic resilience will continue through the fi rst 72.86 56.04 Regency Centers 40.9 12919 72.45 1.49 18.00 11.57 Retail Ventures - 7364 17.02 0.30 looking for expansion opportunities, could fi nd half of 2007 as energy costs have declined, and 3.95 0.76 Revlon - 136073 1.59 0.20 26.70 9.73 Rocky Brands 9.8 934 13.81 -0.35 themselves in a search of a buyer to achieve their interest rates have remained unchanged. Job cre- 31.80 22.12 Ross Stores 20.0 107983 30.41 -0.97 21.45 14.10 Saks 28.0 175700 20.21 0.10 strategic goals. Likewise, retailers that are strug- ation also seems steady, all of which point to a 182.38 113.92 Sears 19.8 173611 172.98 -4.00 gling could be looking for a buyer as a way to help strong M&A environment. 29.24 18.18 Shoe Carnival 17.8 6452 28.42 0.33 11.00 5.19 Shoe Pavilion 30.0 651 7.58 0.31 bail them out. “You’ll see some interesting deals and acquirers. 97.87 75.36 Simon Properties 55.6 43868 95.45 0.67 31.40 13.60 Skechers 19.2 21036 29.05 0.00 Gary Talarico, managing director at Sun Capital There’s a new model out there involving licensing, 6.16 3.83 Sport-Haley - 258 4.03 -0.02 20.37 11.27 Stein Mart 18.0 29316 15.58 -1.45 Partners, observed, “Remember that in our case, and you’ll probably see more deals done by Iconix 4.00 2.83 Stephan 37.3 178 3.37 0.24 44.70 17.63 Steve Madden 18.0 11520 37.20 -1.19 16.21 11.90 Stride Rite 19.2 9162 15.97 0.21 13.40 9.95 Superior Uniform 38.9 299 13.29 0.53 21.24 14.02 Syms 35.2 457 19.03 -0.04 1.38 0.30 Tag-It - 19992 1.13 0.25 WWDComposite Index 31.00 17.30 Talbots 26.2 72103 25.18 -1.35 Weekly % Changes Ending Nov. 17 12.30 9.27 Tandy Brands - 187 11.80 0.01 8.30 4.80 Tandy Leather Factory 17.9 1612 7.75 0.98 38.19 26.36 Tanger Factory Outlet 92.0 12588 38.02 1.28 60.34 44.70 Target 19.5 291736 58.22 0.28 Composite 2.20 1.02 Tarrant Apparel - 5596 1.30 0.01 Gainers Decliners 47.13 33.64 Taubman 39.7 12516 46.10 0.58 1007.81 13.73 7.40 Tefron 17.9 2812 10.85 0.04 43.80 29.63 Tiffany & Co. 21.2 52002 36.54 0.55 Close Change Close Change 37.61 24.80 Timberland 17.9 47192 31.93 0.19 29.84 21.47 TJ Maxx 16.7 188835 29.24 0.61 24.36 11.75 True Religion 15.4 22160 15.40 -0.07 Movie Star 1.13 44.87 United Retail 16.23 -16.60 44.09 25.75 Tween Brands 21.4 40251 41.78 -1.23 49.99 21.08 Under Armour 69.0 39725 46.55 0.90 House of Taylor 2.66 43.01 Phoenix Footwear 3.95 -13.19 3.76 2.00 Unifi - 5285 2.45 -0.13 40.30 28.65 Unifirst 17.8 2922 39.95 1.15 11.41 20.78 9.27 United Retail 8.6 9526 16.23 -3.23 Tag-It 1.13 28.41 Benetton 35.64 -9.61 33.77 13.65 Urban Outfitters 32.4 155244 22.39 0.23 78.57 53.25 V.F. Corp. 15.6 20369 77.37 0.37 Hot Topic 12.74 19.51 Casual Male 13.50 -9.15 41.40 18.24 Volcom 28.2 11296 32.64 0.28 Index base of 1000 is keyed to closing prices 52.15 42.31 Wal-Mart 17.1 960312 47.50 1.03 28.22 15.75 Warnaco 23.3 21917 25.31 0.58 of Dec. 31, 2002. Dillard’s 35.80 19.29 Stein Mart 15.58 -8.51 13.45 10.60 Wellco 14.3 58 11.60 0.19 46.89 36.21 Weingarten 25.8 36966 45.18 0.15 25.72 18.76 Weyco 14.5 448 25.17 1.44 4.75 2.03 Wilsons - 5059 2.49 0.07 30.20 20.26 Wolverine 19.3 11339 27.92 0.27 COMPILED BY DATA NETWORK, HUNTINGTON, N.Y., 631-549-1014. NOTE: INFORMATION AND DATA, THOUGH BELIEVED ACCURATE, IS NOT GUARANTEED. DATA NETWORK SHALL 31.72 21.01 Zale 29.9 21870 29.99 1.31 NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY INACCURACIES. 38.85 18.06 Zumiez 46.7 55471 28.10 -2.57 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 13 WWD.COM More Retail Deals Expected in ’07

Brand Group and NexCen Brands. potential investors in attendance I think that those are two very inno- at the Max Azria fashion show in vative and somewhat different busi- September. As reported, Azria is ness models that involve innovative considering a public offering of his licensing transactions driving the fi rm, the BCBG Max Azria Group. bottom line to a certain degree. In Gilbert Harrison, chairman of order for each company to move investment banking fi rm Financo the dial further, and push earnings Inc., said that attending the shows growth, these fi rms will need more helps one make contacts and get a M&A deals,” Schaffer said. better understanding of the busi- Mark Schwartz, president and ness. “Sometimes you check out chief executive offi cer of Gordon these companies before they need Brothers Group, a fi nancial services our services to see where they are and advisory fi rm, also doesn’t ex- headed and so on. There’s a cer- pect any slowdown, adding that his tain art to it. Many young design- company sees more opportunities ers don’t go anywhere, even though now than before. we think they are very good. It is “We see in the market a dichoto- just that Wall Street doesn’t agree. my, with continued interest in more Every designer needs to have a lower-end retailers, the companies certain amount of ability and a in the discount channel who are certain amount of luck and timing. going after the lower-end consum- Timing is everything.” er. We believe that we will see bet- To be sure, Laurence Leeds Jr., ter-run discounters doing well. We chairman of Buckingham Capital also continue to see strength in the Management, is no stranger to the luxury brands,” Schwartz said. fashion industry. The former chair- For Schwartz, the opportunities Private equity fi rms are expected to continue eyeing retailers such as Pacifi c Sunwear for acquisitions. man of men’s wear fi rm Manhattan are in the middle market. “We are Industries Inc. turned investment seeing very good opportunities when the retailer is bet- too focused on quarterly or monthly results, he noted. guru, goes to the shows every year. ter run, more along the six to seven times price range. If retail remains in the spotlight, apparel fi rms and “It was very dynamic and exciting [in September]. I The pricing is more reasonable in the middle market small fashion houses can still provide inspiration for went to Perry Ellis, Badgley Mischka and Ralph Lauren. than for the larger deals, at least for companies that are fi nancial movers and shakers. In recent years, there I see a lot of old friends in the fashion industry and it run well,” he said. has been a growing presence of fi nancial power bro- makes me nostalgic for the days when I used to give Schwartz said he expects to see more sales involving kers attending fashion shows and the parties afterward. fashion shows. I consider it a social eye-candy experi- noncore divisions of public companies. In addition, pub- They’re watching not just the fashions on models on the ence, with a networking ingredient mixed in. You see lic companies with sales volume between $500 million to catwalk, but keeping tabs on which other fi nancial pro- many retailers there now, but I don’t really try to but- $1 billion could be ripe for conversion to private status, fessionals are present. tonhole them on their business at fashion show. Now the particularly since investors in public companies are still For example, sources said there were at least 75 parties, they can be fun,” Leeds said. 14 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 WWD.COM Financial Factoring in Mergers and Acquisitions

By Liza Casabona iarity with the inner workings of their clients because edge and understanding of a company’s assets. their relationship with a client includes asset-based On the other side of M&A deals, factors are able to actoring firms, which handle a company’s accounts lending and the outsourcing of many back-offi ce func- provide information to potential acquirers about the Freceivables for a fee, are in a unique position to tions. That specifi c knowledge means factors are well health of a company they lend to. Information and sta- offer merger and acquisition assistance ranging from equipped to get involved in deals. tistics are regularly compiled by factors for clients about company matchmaking to financing deals. “We form marriages and introduce companies,” said their own fi nancials. At the request of a specifi c vendor, it As consolidation in the retail industry continues to John LaLota, president, Sterling Factors Corp. “It’s anoth- is simple to provide the same bill of health to an outside create larger companies, more vendors are forced to turn er intangible benefi t of being in a factoring relationship.” party who might be looking to acquire that company, said to strategic partnerships in a bid to stay competitive, fac- By nature, a factoring company’s portfolio of clients is Gary Wassner, president, Hilldun Factors. toring sources said. At the same time, larger vendors are varied within the apparel industry. If, for example, a knitted “When someone is interested in purchasing a client on the lookout for acquisitions to add to their stable. goods client wanted to get into woven goods, a factor could they contact us for the information they want from a fi - Factors fi nd themselves offering a number of “unof- be in a good position to hear of opportunities, LaLota said. nancial standpoint. We are the best fi nancial reference fi cial services” to clients trying to navigate through a Factors regularly help clients form strategic partnerships. that our clients have,” Wassner said. “We are the fi rst merger or acquisition. Many of the roles factors fi ll de- In the case of a company looking to acquire a part- place that someone would go after the client’s own ac- veloped naturally out of the existing services they pro- ner or another business, once the marriage is arranged countant for the kind of information they want [during vide clients. Factoring fi rms have a high level of famil- companies sometimes turn again to factors for more tra- an acquisition or merger].” ditional help with fi nancing. Aside from marrying clients with potential partners, “Factors’ lending formula is, coinciden- factors fi nd themselves frequently serving in an adviso- tally, specifi cally tailored for acquisitions,” ry role providing recommendations for other services. said Michael Stanley, executive vice presi- “We offer our industry and fi nancing expertise as a tool dent, Rosenthal & Rosenthal. to build relationships,” said Jeff Guldner, chief credit offi cer, Factors are often more comfortable lending GMAC Commercial Finance. “We have an extensive network larger sums of money to their clients than other of industry resources available to assist our clients and pros- fi nancial institutions because they control their pects. These include accounting fi rms, law fi rms, industry collateral, Stanley pointed out. Lending against consultants and trade groups who we work with on a regular receivables gives the factors real-time knowl- basis to help our clients get the best advice possible.” Federated Sells Bridal Group for $850M ederated sold its bridal group for $850 million Lundgren, chairman, president and chief execu- Fin cash on Friday. According to a statement tive offi cer of Federated, in a statement. from the company, the group sold in two separate “While the bridal group did not fit with transactions to Leonard Green & Partners and Federated’s strategy for focusing on the nation- Men’s Wearhouse. wide Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s brands, we do Leonard Green & Partners bought David’s believe these businesses have a promising fu- Bridal and Priscilla of Boston for approximately ture under the ownership of Leonard Green and $750 million. Men’s Wearhouse bought the After Men’s Wearhouse. We look forward to a continu- Hours Formalwear business, which includes Mr. ing relationship between Macy’s and David’s Tux stores in New England, for $100 million. Bridal, with Macy’s being the exclusive depart- Federated will net approximately $750 million ment store wedding gift registry partner with from the sale after taxes. Pending regulatory ap- David’s,” he said. proval, the two transactions are expected to close The management team that lead the bridal in the fi rst quarter of next year. group at Federated will continue to oversee “These sale agreements represent the suc- David’s Bridal and Priscilla of Boston after the cessful conclusion of a process that yielded an acquisition. Men’s Wearhouse will integrate the excellent price for our shareholders,” said Terry companies with the management of After Hours. Sally Beauty Makes CEO: Foot Locker Not for Sale atthew D. Serra, Foot Locker Inc.’s chairman and Mchief executive officer, said in a statement Friday that Stock Market Debut the company is not for sale. Several media sources, includ- NEW YORK — Sally Beauty Holdings, ing WWD, have reported that Foot Locker is up for sale. the former distribution arm of Alberto- “The continued rumors in the press regarding Foot Culver, made its stock market debut as Locker being involved in discussions of a potential sale of a separate company Friday, with shares the company are not true,” the ceo said. “There are no dis- opening at $7.35 on the New York Stock cussions taking place, nor have there been.” Exchange. The statement went on to say that “several months ago, the The stock closed at $7.86. The global company had hired Evercore Partners to advise it on a range private equity fi rm Clayton, Dubilier & of matters and The Parthenon Group, a strategic consulting Rice completed its investment in the fi rm, to assist in the review of the company’s business plan.” company on Thursday, acquiring 47.5 “Based on our assessment of their work, we continue to percent of Sally Beauty’s shares. The be confi dent about our business and our ability to gener- transaction is valued at $3 billion dol- ate long-term shareholder value by executing our strategic lars, including the $575 million invest- plan,” Serra said. ment made by a CD&R-managed fund. WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 15 WWD.COM Retailers Ready for Strong Holiday

Continued from page one stock market is holding up; Wall Street bonuses should be big, and gas prices have declined. From Bloomingdale’s: Michael Kors These positives should offset continued concerns over softness in the housing market. ankle boot, $215; Chanel chain Since September, the National Retail Federation has been forecasting a 5 percent tote, $2,225, and Juicy Couture gain in total holiday sales to $457.4 billion. According to a survey commissioned by cableknit armwarmers, $95. International Council of Shopping Centers Inc. and UBS Securities, 17 percent of consumers said they expected to spend more this holiday season than last year, and 56 percent said they expect to spend the same. Shoppers said they expected to spend $676 on average during their holiday shopping, up from $620 last year. And, more than ever this year, retailers are moving to direct shoppers to what the stores see as a few key items for gifts. Retail executives are banking on: ● All manner of sweaters, from long tunics to paper-thin cashmere; ● Denim, including straight- and skinny-leg styles from J Brand and AG; ● Leggings to go over the jeans; ● Jewelry, from charms to watches to high-ticket necklaces; ● Gift cards, which are likely to be bigger than ever. But the hottest items around probably won’t be apparel. Observers predict that holiday 2006 will once again be all about electronics, from the impossible-to-fi nd PlayStation 3 by Sony to an Apple iPod to Microsoft’s new MP3 player, the Zune. Demand for these items could eat into spending on apparel. Still, L&T anticipates selling 160,000 cashmere sweaters in December, priced $89 and $180, and sees a big season ahead for diamonds, belted wool coats, denim jeans and cold-weather accessories. “I can’t wait to see what happens in the fourth quarter,” Terry Lundgren, chair- man, ceo and president of Federated Department Stores, recently said, noting the company was pleased with its comp-store performance in September and October. Sweaters are also a hot category, with oversize styles, wrap sweat- “We are optimistic,” Steve Sadove, ceo of Saks Inc., chimed in ers and tunics selling well. Those trends are driving the belt and earlier this month. He thinks his buyers have a handle on what con- fl at-shoe business, she said. “Our average price point has gone up sumers want and said the relaunch of petites and private label this pretty signifi cantly, from $107 last year to $122,” she said. fall should help the holiday season. Saks Fifth Avenue is looking to “We’ve had an unbelievable season,” said Stefani Greenfi eld, co- Toy Watches, $150; Portolano gloves and scarves from $98 to $135; founder of Scoop. “It’s a dress-driven season.” Scoop’s top-selling Alex & Ani necklaces, $175, and bracelets, $115, in precious metals dresses are Diane von Furstenberg, Thread, Alice & Olivia, Le Shak in 18-karat gold vermeil; Marc Jacobs wristlettes, $475; Juicy Couture by Tracey Feith, Miu Miu, Tibi, Azzedine Alaïa, Thakoon, Leila Rose, velour hoodies, $148, and drawstring pants, $128, as well as Fabergé 3.1 Phillip Lim and Missoni. “We’re running a 22 percent increase decanters and shot glasses, to be among the bestsellers. for the season,” Greenfi eld said. Handbags and belts have been sell- ing well, especially clutches from Tory Burch and cinch belts from GETTING THE PRODUCT RIGHT Motif 56, Michael Kors and Lucy Sykes. Other retailers also believe their assortments are in sync with what consumers want. THE MASS CHALLENGE “Our results have been going really well this year, and we don’t But the outlook isn’t all positive. see anything that would lead us to think that will change,” said a “The prospects for Christmas are more than moderately good, but Nordstrom spokeswoman. it’s kind of bifurcated,” said Arnold Aronson, managing director of re- Luxury watches from Michelle and Burberry; handbags such as Yves tail strategy for Kurt Salmon Associates. “There will be great price com- Saint Laurent’s Muse, and in footwear, ballerina shoes, kitten heels, petitiveness at the mass end of the business, with down-to-the-minute peep-toe dress shoes and animal prints are standouts so far. Nordstrom, nail-biting and Target maintaining its performance differential versus which recently expanded its designer collections online, started offer- Wal-Mart. However, luxury and affordable luxury stores will have very ing free shipping for orders of $100 or more for the holiday. positive results, and this will be a breakout year for department stores “We’ve had a great fall season,” said Michael Celestino, executive including Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Belk and Penney’s.” vice president of stores for Barneys New York. “From what I can see, Planalytics, a weather forecasting service that is geared to help we’re going to have a very good holiday season.” retailers plan their season, believes consumers will spend far less The Co-op business continues to be strong, dresses and sweat- on seasonal apparel and other need items as a result of the much ers are key classifi cations and handbags and jewelry are doing well. warmer weather this year, 20 to 30 degrees warmer in some areas. Celestino said he expects the last two categories to accelerate as That favors nonseasonal gift purchases and mass merchants could the season progresses. “The consumer’s mind-set is good,” he said. Saks’ spur higher demand for outdoor lighting and outdoor recreational “I don’t anticipate our business being any more promotional than it Christmas activities, Planalytics said. normally is. Our business is continuing to grow.” look: Badgley With Hannukah falling very late last year, many retailers saw Mischka IN THE CARDS sales intensify as Christmas approached. This year, Celestino noted, mink capelet, According to an NRF gift-card survey, conducted by BIGresearch, Hannukah falls in the middle of December. “The business this year $4,000, with gift-card sales will total $24.81 billion this holiday season, a $6 bil- will be more spread throughout the season,” he said. Kaufman lion increase over last year’s $18.48 billion. Consumers will spend Macy’s East is looking to chunky, long-length sweater jackets, Franco twist $116.51 on average for gift cards versus $88.03 in 2005. cashmere sweaters, cocktail rings, iPods sold via the Zoom vending jersey dress, “The popularity of gift cards has increased at a remarkable rate,” machines recently installed in most stores, active velour separates, $3,295. Tracy Mullin, NRF president and ceo, said in a statement. “Consumers puffers in longer lengths, wristlets from such brands as Coach, Kors, love gift cards because they take the guessing out of holiday shopping Dooney & Bourke and Calvin Klein, as well as Lionel trains sold just at the Herald and retailers love them because they are easy to stock and take up minimum shelf space.” Square store and Steiff teddy bears to be big sellers. Because retailers record sales from gift cards after the card is exchanged for Ann Taylor is emphasizing gift items such as jewelry boxes from $20 to $30; cash- merchandise, much of the $24.81 billion won’t be refl ected in holiday sales and will mere sweaters, priced $128 to $198, and cashmere accessories including scarves, instead be included later, primarily January and February, when the cards get re- gloves and hats, priced from $42 to $118. At Ann Taylor Loft, the gift assortment in- deemed, NRF said. The survey polled 8,090 consumers from Nov. 1 to Nov. 8, and has cludes nylon travel bags, priced from $19 to $79, and the Real Simple Book Collection a margin of error of plus or minus 1.0 percent. at $20. “We’re hopeful. Our guidance is above last year for the fourth quarter and 2006,” said Kay Krill, president and ceo of Ann Taylor Stores Corp. ONLINE OPPORTUNITIES “It’s been a good season,” said Ed Bucciarelli, president and ceo of Henri Bendel. E-commerce also is expected to boom this holiday after truly coming into its own dur- “We’ve done our homework. We’ve done some testing throughout the season to know ing the holiday 2005 period. “Online retailers are really going to do well,” said Michelle what the customer is looking for.” He said Bendel’s is poised to capitalize on the Madhok, founder of SheFinds.com, who has polled online retailers, including Sephora, popularity of knitwear with the store’s private label and new contemporary subbrand, Apple and Drugstore.com and others, on what they see as potential bestsellers. Madhok Henri, where trends such as tunics and rugby stripes are addressed. added, “Consumers are shifting to more online shopping due to the high price of gas “Our accessories business is on fi re,” he said. “We’re selling tons of clutches. Our [and] getting more comfortable with shopping online — there are great deals online and beauty continues to grow tremendously. We are the MAC headquarters and have two you can compare prices easier. Most sites are offering free shipping or a fl at rate.” new brands, Model Co. from Australia and Mally Beauty.” Consumers are expected to spend $11.9 billion online for the holidays, according to Charms and found objects are driving the jewelry business, Bucciarelli said. SheFinds. Among the potential sellouts cited by SheFinds are Playstation 3 and its com- “In denim, we think we’re the headquarters for J Brand skinny-leg jeans. We also petitor Nintendo Wii; Gap’s Go (Red) items, including candles and cashmere hooded have Josh Goot apparel from Australia, and we’re having a big love affair with adam- sweatshirts; iPod Nano; Tickle Me Elmo; J Brand skinny denim jeans; Chanel nail polish, pluseve. These resources are becoming core for us.” specifi cally 219 Black Satin Le Vernis, and Microsoft’s Zune 30GB digital media player. Bendel’s introduced holiday merchandise earlier this year than in the past. The re- “We’re having a really strong start to holiday already,” said Melissa Payner, ceo of tailer has two catalogues planned for the season, Wonderland and Chic Treats. This is Bluefl y, the off-price Web site. “Last Monday, we had the most traffi c we’ve ever had. the fi rst time Bendel’s has produced a catalogue in 20 years, Bucciarelli said. “We’re We see our season building earlier this season.” seeing the holiday shopping already begin, but it will crescendo at the last minute,” On Wednesday, the site launches a 15-percent-off shoe promotion and then a dif- he said. “I believe we’ve seen it start earlier. The consumer is pretty upbeat. It’s the ferent percent off each category on subsequent days. Based on a 35 percent increase beginning of the season, and she’s responding to everything we’re doing.” for the third quarter, Payner said, “We see really big increases going into the holiday.” “Every indication we have for the season is positive,” said Stacey Pecor, founder of She expects designer handbags between $500 to $2,000 (20 to 40 percent off regular Olive & Bette, New York specialty store. Categories such as dresses have been strong, prices) as well as cashmere crewneck sweaters, $85 (from $240 at regular retail), cash- and the retailer’s top dress vendor is Susana Monaco. Straight-leg velvet jeans from mere scarves priced at $50 from $120, daytime dresses in the $150 range and generally AG and leggings are top sellers. 40 percent off, to emerge as holiday bestsellers. “They have to have leggings,” she said. “We can’t keep them in stock.” — With contributions from Liza Casabona 16 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006

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1412 Broadway Miami (305) 556-9122 New York (212) 369-3778 [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 17 NATIONAL MARKETPLACE

NEED FINANCING? Merchandiser/Designer Purchase order financing & letters of credit for importers, exporters, distrib- PRODUCT MARKETING DIRECTOR Large accessories co seeks Merchan- utors & mnfctrs Competitive rates & fees. diser / Designer to head up product Millennium Capital USA LLC ATTENTION: LADIES BUYERS Third largest US health care organization seeks an experience marketing / development dept. for large costume Phone (516) 621-1110 jewelry div. Must have 3-5 years exp Fax: (516) 621-1119 merchandising individual with a proven track record to lead our women’s including overseas travel. Fax resume: [email protected] 212-302-2753 ARE YOU CRAZY FOR CALIFORNIA health care specialty division within North American operations. This position will be responsible for overseeing all aspects of marketing, new business PATTERN/SAMPLES Forman Mills, the #1 Off Price Apparel Retail Chain on the and product development, and relationship management. Experience in high Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast East Coast is expanding. We are looking for an Executive touch customer contact business environment a must. Experience required, work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Ladies DMM to buy Junior, Missy, Plus sportswear on the 10-15 yrs. in establishing and adhering to budgets, pricing strategies, and PATTERNS, SAMPLES, West Coast. This is a new position developed to support our extensive national growth plans. driving marketing initiatives. Catalog, web marketing, and e-commerce are PRODUCTIONS desired. BS required, advance degree preferred. Compensation package DOE. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. REQUIREMENTS: V.P. of Sales Call Sherry 212-719-0622. · Off Price Urban Buying experience, strong fashion sense Please submit cover letter, resume, and salary requirements to: Six Figure Salary + Bonus PATTERNS, SAMPLES, · Know the California off price and traditional markets. Email: [email protected] PARISA Lingerie & Swimwear in PRODUCTIONS · Have strong negotiation skills, current branded contacts Los Angeles area is seeking Key Full service shop to the trade. and PC Literate. High Energy, Dynamic Self Starter Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. V.P. of Sales. Candidate must have: We are RE – REtail Evolution & REvolution in the industry. We offer excellent benefits. Including: life, LTD insurance, As one of the nation’s leading mfr’s & distributors of ladies •Relationships with mass market/ Patterns/Samples/Production 401 (K) with match & great opportunities for growth. chain/ department stores, Snaps, Eyelets, Covered Bottoms Clothing, Footwear & Accessories , we are currently in search of a Any Style - Full Service •Strong marketing & sales Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 This is a Ground Floor Opportunity SENIOR EXECUTIVE MANAGER background (5+ years), Get In While the Getting is Good! To manage & oversee the below managerial positions. •Organizational skills, computer/ PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD • Real Estate Location Selections High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- E-mail savvy, dedicated/ driven/ sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Forward your resume/history & salary req’s to: • Retail Stores & Outlet Interior Design Expert ambitious, ability/ willingness to E: [email protected] F: 856-661-6285 • Visual Merchandising Manager travel, motivated/ results driven. • Head Buyer • Retail Planning Must also have an understanding of • Marketing Strategist • E-commerce foundation/ intimates construction cur- rent trends in this area. Please E-mail • Human Resources • MIS resumes to: [email protected] • Traing and Development • Store Operations Please email or fax resume to E: [email protected] F: (718) 228-6272 SALES MANAGER Administrative Assistant A. Che’, an up & coming high-end New York Luxury Apparel Co. is seek- Handbag Designer Co. is seeking ing an energetic, self-motivated, and Well Est Missy Sportswear an energetic and personable Sales well organized Administrative Assistant . Technical Designer Responsibilities include front desk & Co. seeks YOU for: Manager. Requirements include office support, track sample shipments, extensive sales experience in acces- accounts payable. Preference for college PRODUCTION COORDINATOR GREAT OPPORTUNITY sories (handbags) as well as an graduates with relevant experience, TO JOIN OUR TEAM excellent references and be computer Strong communication & computer understanding of the high-end market literate. Please E-mail all resumes to: skills. Liaison b/w sales & overseas, A leading Dress Co. seeks a and strong relationships with better [email protected] track orders and shipments. Department and Luxury Specialty TECHNICAL DESIGNER with Stores. Please E-mail resumes to: Administrative Asst. Technical Designer a min. 5 yrs exp. in dresses. European Fashion Company seeks Highly organized and detailed- Must be knowledgeable of [email protected] experienced Administrative Assistant who is highly motivated/detail oriented specing, grading, fit & tech packs. dresses cut on bias, beadwork, individual. Computer savvy in Microsoft Fax res: 212-768-1858 or garment construction, fittings, Office (Excel, Word, Powerpoint, Out- Email:[email protected] graded specs and detailed look). Knowledge of Adobe programs such as Acrobat and Photoshop a plus. corrections. Tech. Packages, E-mail: [email protected] Design good communication skills or Fax resume to: (212) 246-0034 SENIOR DESIGNER:BOYS and proficiency in Excel and ADMIN/Prod Asst-1+ yr doing order Boys wear importer seeks a creative Illustrator are a must. entry/Emailing/Excel nec/handle invent prof. to design boys-sizes 2/4, 4/7, 8/18. cont/deal w/overseas plants. $33-43K Work w/ team of artists to create sets & Les Richards Agcy Call (212) 221-0870 separate tops. Must have strong sense €EXCELLENT BENEFITS € of new & upcoming trends & have Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Admin Since 1967 Customer Service Rep Designer $50-70K Current exp in private good knowledge of the market. Knowl- label updated Jr. driven missy sports- edge of Illustrator & Photoshop essential. Please e-mail your resume to: No Lot Too Big or Too Small. W-I-N-S-T-O-N Richard Leeds Int’l seeks a Customer [email protected] Call CLOTHES-OUT: Service Rep w/ 3-5 yrs exp in apparel. wear. Midtwn co. Call 973-564-9236 or Email: [email protected] (937) 898-2975 APPAREL STAFFING Resp for day to day coordination of Email [email protected] DESIGN * SALES * MERCH shipping & maintenance of orders. DESIGNER AND ASSISTANTS EDI Coord to 38K. Exp in Excel + EDI. ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION Must review cut and sold reports. Operations Manager Missy or Contemporary Bergen/ Hudson County area. Assist in High end mid size Acc manufacturer (212)557-5000 F: (212) 986-8437 Heavy interaction with Distribution Woven or Knit Sportswear Walmart followup. Call 973-564-9236 or Center. Must be detail oriented & seeks hands on exec to oversee all Call (212)643-8090-Fax 643-8127 (agcy) email [email protected]. back office functions (data entry,cust APPAREL OPPORTUNITIES organized. Wal-Mart / Sam’s Club exp A+. Excellent environment & benefits. serv, inventory ctrl, factory personnel SRI SEARCH INC DESIGNER management etc). Must have min 5yrs www.srisearch.com Email or fax resume to: 212-696-8450 [email protected] Graphic Artist to 60K. Exp in girls. Operations exp plus full command of 212-465-8300 For boys sportswear size 4-18. Must be EDI & Dept Store regulations. A proven Allen Platt/Jennifer Glenn able to merchandise and design line. Newborn, toddler, up to tween. Cutsy, Sweet, Girly applicas and prints. Full track record in a leadership position [email protected] DATA PROCESSING Responsibilities include travel to factories for MFG, prof attitude with exec verbal [email protected] time perm only. Call 973-564-9236 or Seeking motivated individual for entry overseas. Fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 email [email protected] & written communication skills a level data processing position using must. No travel req. Would interface w/ ASSISTANT DESIGNER AS400. We will provide training. dom and foreign production. Please fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 Email resume w/ salary req to: Leading better separates co. looking for DESIGNER HEAD/ BOYS organized, motivated, creative firecracker [email protected] Design DENIM Collection/to $100K+ HOT JOBS, COOL COMPANIES willing to do whatever it takes. Must For major NYC apparel co. Design line *Designer-Home decor w/license exp Patternmaker $100-125K. Current exp have 2 yrs exp working with China, ASSISTANT DESIGNER of Fashion Basics. Req: strong Boy’s for kids. Ill/Photoshop. $45-50K in first + production patterns of lined drawing skills, spec, sketch, technical *Production Asst-Walmart/Target exp tailored womens suit jackets. Must Major apparel co. seeks experienced denim bottoms/tops w/ mass market packages, EMB layouts. Fax resume to: expr. Excl. llust./Photoshop skills. Preferred 1+yr exp needed $40-45K have exp on Gerber also. Midtown Co. 212-302-3872 / MRS. KRAMPF individual to create production/tech Email resume: [email protected] *Art Team Manager-Licensing Call 973-564-9236 or [email protected] packs. Other responsibilities include Fax 917-591-2521 Ph: 914-337-3660 (Disney) exp. Home decor/bedding helping prepare worksheets and artwork Ill/Photoshop $55-60K PLANNER / ANALYST 5th & 38th st. SUBLET 5,000 ft. ASSOC MEN’S DESIGNER $80K pages. Must have knowledge of Illustra- Call Laurie 212-947-3399 or e-mail: N.Y. Co.: Monitor plans/sales/margins. High ceilings - Excellent Condition Sweater/Knits. Flat Sketch. Fabric Devel [email protected] tor & Photoshop. Designer Woven/Textiles Handle inventory/replenishment. Must Prime Manhattan RE Scott 212-268-8043 [email protected] 212-947-3400 Est’d Textile Co seeks talented yarn KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS FAX RESUMES TO : 212-730-9705 have solid Wal-Mart Retail Link exp. Search www.manhattanrealty.com dye woven fabric designer for men’s Fax: 973-812-0581 and women’s imported fabrication. Search For Space In Garment Center Design Import Traffic Coord. $45K Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee CAD experience helpful. Salary com- mensurate with exp. Company Paid Assist Import Manager. Follow up on PRODUCT DEVEL $40K www.midcomre.com BABY PHAT Assistant Designer air freight, ocean tariffs, & liaison cus- Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Major Apparel Co located in NY seeks benefits. Fax resume to: (212)209-4406. Better Bridge Evening Dress Mfg Designer & Graphic Designers Needed tom brokers. Raskin Executive Search. Must Sketch & Spec. Time’n Action detailed oriented and organized indi- Fax:732-536-4770 Email: [email protected] Infants through 16 vidual. Illustrator and Photoshop a [email protected] 212-947-3400 Showrooms & Lofts Email: [email protected] must. Strong written and verbal com- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS munication. Entry level to 1 yr exp. Design Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Fax resume: Attn: Aida 212-768-3588 Fast paced, high energy, growing Merchandise Allocator PRODUCT DEVEL $65-70K ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 BOOKKEEPER Women’s Apparel Co seeks: Est’d apparel company seeking for an Sweater & Knits. Apparel Import Co. seeks bookkeeper Sportswear Designer exp’d allocator. Must have experience Test/Analyze Yarns & Fabrics w/5 yrs exp. in A/P, A/R, factors, banks, DESIGN ASSISTANT with min 3 yrs exp in Sportswear in allocation and customer service. [email protected] 212-947-3400 be proficient in Excel & computer savvy Seeking a detail-oriented, technically design. Exp w/ cut & sew knits and Strong communication skills and team in other programs. Fax/Email resumes to: advanced individual with a great work woven tops a must. Must have strong work required. Please send resume to: 212-997-7441 or [email protected] ethic to join our fun, fast-paced team. computer illustrator skills, be a self- E-mail: [email protected] PRODUCT Illustrator a must. Fax: (212) 944-5333 starter who thrives in a fast paced environment. Great opportunity for DEVELOPMENT MGR. growth. Excellent benefits package. Merchandiser Buyer Design Consultant (Lingerie) Major apparel company seeks individual Specialty NY retailer seeks designer to Email resume: Asst. Merchandiser for MANAGEMENT position. Respon- EXPERIENCED BUYER consult on producing sophisticated, high [email protected] or Major Textile Importer based in NYC sibilities include approving lab dips, -end lingerie & nightwear line. Ideal Fax : 212 827 3344 Attn: KS seeks a highly motivated, energetic & fabric, and accessories. Individual will Men’s Wear/Ladies’ Apparel/Children’s candidate will have 10+ yrs. experience, Wear. Fax resume to: 201-943-4290 multitask applicant to effectively work review design worksheets and coordinate have extensive knowledge of fine fabrics Design Room Mgr to $175K. Current in a fast environment. Computer literate information between design department GREAT OPPORTUNITY OUTSOURCING CAD Artist $50-55K Current exp in & manufacturing processes. Compen- exp in supervising min. 20 designers, & email overseas a must. Knowledge and production department. Must have PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Primavision, Illustrator, Photoshop. sation commensurate with experience GA’s, assistants, etc. Boyswear li- in print production a PLUS. good organizational, communication and Strong in Line-Building / N.Y.C. Base Strong in prints, cleaning up of prints. & industry standing. censed co. Strong in mgmnt of design Excellent benefits! computer skills. Fabric construction Design•Patterns•Samples•Production Mdtwn sprtswr co. Call 973-564-9236 Please fax resume to: (212) 414-8219 flow, calendar scheduling, etc. Call 973- Fax resume & salary requirements to: knowledge & Wal-Mart experience a plus. T: 212-627-3602 E: [email protected] or E-mail: [email protected] or E-mail: [email protected] 564-9236 or email: [email protected] 212-575-2660 Please fax resume to: 212-730-9705 18 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006

Product Development / Sourcing Growing accessory co. (bags, belts, jewlery) seeks organized and creative SOFTWARE/MIS MANAGER $70-75k indiv. Must be able to identify emerg- ing trends, design concepts and hands on sourcing for junior & young ladies Excellent Opportunity mkt. Strong computer and communi- cation skills. Exp with licensing. Email Responsible for daily functions/integrity of ERP system. Ensure resume to: [email protected] inbound execution & on time delivery of all EDI transactions Production Assistant Blue Cherry software experience strongly preferred; Access Seeking highly motivated person to rqd, SQL a plus. Knowledge of Accessories, bag industry preferred. worked in our Production Dept. Experience with mass market retailers. Managed employees. Computer literate with good follow-up Excellent communication, organizational, prioritization, skills. typing skill of 45 WPM, knowl- edge of garment and fabric preferred multitasking skills. Blue Cherry resp: but not necessary. Company paid • Test, install software upgrades, liaise w/IT on hardware upgrades benefits. Fax# (212)209-4406 • Develop/maintain spec rqmts for software suppliers Production Coord $45-50K. Current • Test EDI trading partner transactions, VICS versions exp in private label. Follow up emails • Create reports, Monitor daily reporting/allocations functions to far east. Scheduling work in proc- ess. 1400 Bway. Call 973-564-9236 or • Train staff Email [email protected] • UCC 128, RFID label design and printing • RP security set-up and user access Production Coordinator Seeking individual to handle Wal-Mart Please email: [email protected] color approvals and sample tracking from overseas. Wal-Mart experience a big plus. Knowledge of Wal-Mart color systems preferred. Individual must be detail oriented & organized. Please fax resumes to: 212-730-9705 PRODUCTION A midtown Industry leader in Accessories is offering Established Lingerie Co. seeks individual great opportunities to work in a fast paced environment w/min 3yrs production experience. Must with excellent salaries & benefits. be able to read and write in both English and Mandarin. Opportunity for growth. SR. DESIGNER PLEASE FAX RESUME TO: 212-889-8411 SCHOOL SUPPLIES/STATIONERY DIVISION $50k PRODUCTION Photoshop, Illustrator required. Experience managing others, Pet Fashion Co. seeks indiv with 2+ years production experience. Target will direct 1-2 Designers. 3-5 yrs Licensed exp. experience a plus. Must be highly mo- required and some relevant item experience. tivated, have excellent communication & organizational skills. Excel a must. If qualified send salary & resume to [email protected] Fax or email resume & salary req. to: Subject line: yourname/position applying for/WWD 646-486-1336, [email protected] Production Sourcing Mgr $130-160K Current extensive exp in outerwear, polyfill, wool, winter jackets req’d. Must have worked for min 100 mil vol Wal-Mart Planner co. technical proficiency in construction Must have the following experiences: of outerwear. Will supervise min 10. manage replenishment program, Retail Call: 973-564-9236 or Link/CPFR, planning multiple new Email: [email protected] programs, extensive MS/Excel knowl. which includes: pivot tables, formulas Production Sourcing Mgr to $125K. & V-lookups, manage inventory, create Current strong exp in better to bridge & maintain forecasts, excellent written womens market required. Domestic & verbal communications, & work w/ plus overseas. Well known brand. retail link analysts. Excellent career E-mail [email protected] opportunity for the right candidate. IMMEDIATE HIRE QA Assistant E-mail: [email protected] Great Opportunity! Great Company! Leading Intimate Apparel Mfg. seeks Web PDM Administrator to $75K. experienced & highly organized Quality Current exp in better sportswear co. Assurance person to assist the VP of Strong exp in non creative admin QA on all daily activities. Duties in- input of data to be put online. Well clude: maintaining all inspection logs, known co. Call 973-564-9236 or e-mail running in-house processes, sending [email protected] products for testing and working on special projects. Will also asst prod dev personnel on finished garment audits. Previous Quality experience mandatory. Strong follow-up and analytical skills necessary. Experience in Word, Excel and Outlook mandatory. Experience with Walmart, JCP & KMart a plus. Please FAX your resume to: B. Farrell (212) 842-4032. EOE. QUALITY ASSURANCE Quality minded person needed with experience in factory certifications, fabric and garment testing procedures, and quality control standards. Must be detail oriented. Will oversee quality team in Shanghai office. Knowledge of garment construction necessary. Must be computer literate. Knowledge of Mandarin helpful. Email resume to: [email protected] Receptionist / Administrative Asst Manufacturer of Women’s Sportswear seeks energetic self motivated person. Person should possess good interper- sonal skills, be organized & dependable. Job duties include answering phones, greeting visitors and administrative tasks. Please fax resume to 212-239- 7332 or email to [email protected].

SAMPLEMAKER - Couture Women’s Couture Company seeking highly skilled Samplemakers. Talents must include: knowledge of all high end fabrics, cutting, eveningwear, tailoring, corsetry, & all hand finishings, including appliqué. Great opportunity for the right individual. E-mail resume to: [email protected] SAMPLE ROOM COORDINATOR Children’s wear company seeks indiv. w/ exp in tech packs to communicate b/w NY office & China sample room. Must have communication and organi- zational skills.Illustrator a must. Email:[email protected]

Tech Designer-$50-60K. Current exp in putting tech pkgs together to be sent to far east. Strong in sewing construction. Long Island City. Call 973-564-9236 or Email: [email protected]

Tech Designer/Patternmaker to $100K. Current exp in womens dresses/ sprtswr, missy. Send tech pkgs to Far East. Involve w/ fittings of fully lined beaded dresses. Georgettes. Call 973- 564-9236 or Email: [email protected]

Vice President Branded Childrenswear/ Women’s Sportswear Production/Sourcing/ Merchandising/ Prod Dev [email protected] WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2006 19 WWD.COM

Time is joining the race in January, with Group, Affl uent Market Insights. According to PERSONAL STYLIST: As People ramps up Kate Betts overseeing a new luxury section Telsey Advisory Group, true luxury goods sales publication of StyleWatch to 10 times MEMO PAD that will appear in the magazine 14 times measured $100 billion last year. Apparel had annually from fi ve this year, the spin-off a year. Taylor Gray, Time’s publishing the largest share, at 27 percent, followed will get its fi rst dedicated editor, Susan TAKE MIU: Talks may have fallen through director, said the special section will go by fragrances at 25 percent; shoes/leather Kaufman. She joined People in 2002 to work to make Lindsay Lohan the face of Louis out to 800,000 targeted subscribers goods, 22 percent; wine, 15 percent; jewelry/ on StyleWatch in the weekly magazine, then Vuitton earlier this year, but it looks like with “editorial relating to the luxury watches, 7 percent, and home goods, 4 worked on the spin-off and other People the starlet has a second shot at the ad marketplace.” A magazine spokeswoman percent. — Amy Wicks specials, such as the Oscar issue and has campaign stakes. Miu Miu has tapped said the layouts will be approximately eight worked on photo galleries for people.com. the tab terror as the face of its spring to 16 pages of ads and editorial. “It’s a NUMBERS PLEASE: Mediamark Research Prior to joining People, Kaufman was fashion 2007 ad campaign. A Prada spokesman good way to get more luxury advertisers in Inc. released its fall magazine audience director at Mademoiselle and creative confi rmed Lohan shot the campaign in the magazine,” she admitted. In addition, estimates last week, meaning publishers director, beauty and fashion, at Us when the new issue of Betts’ Time Style & will be touting a whole new set of metrics the title moved to a weekly publication from Lindsay Lohan Design, which comes out today, will feature proclaiming to advertisers how much monthly. — S.D.S. a luxury index of the biggest trends. younger, richer and bigger their audiences Over at American Express Publishing, Ed are. Of the men’s fashion and lifestyle TALENT SEARCH: Will fashion’s next big talent Ventimiglia, publisher of Departures, said the titles, Esquire saw the largest gain in be discovered via the Internet? That’s the magazine had its best year ever this year. median household income, jumping to aim of Rafael Jimenez and Suran Goonatilake, Pages increased by 13 percent and ad pages $68,685 from $59,104 last fall, while the Paris-based entrepreneurial duo were up 14.5 percent versus last year. “We GQ’s median income fell to $63,180 from behind Iqons, a nascent online networking have an audience of proven spenders,” he $67,144. Nevertheless, the title’s riches community targeting the fashion pack. said. Next year, Departures plans to expand are easily explainable. Esquire’s median “Designers don’t always have enough its wealth to Russia — an increasingly age is a decade older than GQ’s — 43.5 backing to break onto the scene, so this popular spot for magazines to set up shop. years compared with 33.1 years. is the ideal vehicle for visibility,” said At Town & Country, a spokesman said ad In other cases, though, the older you Jimenez. With bearded Belgian Walter pages rose 1.3 percent this year, and that are, the less money you have. Men’s Health Van Beirendonck elected as the site’s fi rst 2006 was the magazine’s most successful saw its average income fall to $71,148 “Iqon,” the company is in talks with big- ever. “There are more wealthy people from $73,310 last year, while median age name designers and industry players for spending more on nicer brands,” he said. inched up to 37.7 years from 36.1 last future slots, according to Jimenez. Iqons Publisher Jim Taylor pointed to the hotel and fall. Men’s Journal’s household income are invited to answer a Q&A, select and real estate sectors as ones to watch. fell to $71,569 from $83,749, while comment on their favorite designers and London last weekend. Separately, WWD Dan Galpern, chief operating offi cer at readers grew older — 37.8 from 36.9 last share inspirations. Other features include has learned Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott are CurtCo Media, said the size of the luxury year. Maxim readers also carried thinner “Rip Off,” a section denouncing fashion’s the photographers. The move sees Miu Miu advertising market is growing, partially wallets this year: Median income declined copycats; “15 Mins,” where each hour mixing it up on the image front once again. because of the increasing number of to $59,144 from $62,110 last year, while members will be randomly posted on the For fall 2006, Chinese actresses Dong Jie companies offering bespoke goods and age grew to 28.5 from 27.6 last fall. main page for 15 minutes; competitions, and Zhou Xun and Japanese model Lina services. CurtCo’s luxury yacht magazine, FHM saw income grow to $64,462 from and regular events. A search function also Ohta fronted the brand, while in the past, ShowBoat International, experienced a 30 $62,570 and median age move to 28.4 will allow visitors to surf by name, key word celebrity faces have included Kim Basinger, percent jump in ad pages over last year. from 28.1 last year. Stuff’s median income or category. Financing will come mainly Camilla Belle, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Drew He added that next year, the watch, jewelry remained fl at at $61,535 from $61,843, from sponsors and advertisers that will Barrymore and Chloë Sevigny. — Miles Socha and fashion categories look promising. while median age was 28 compared with appear as banners. “We will also be offering Last year, there were approximately 27.9 last year. Playboy readers earned subsidized advertising space for designers MORE LUXE: With the success that 930,000 U.S. households with more than a median income of $53,930 this year, who can’t usually afford to do so,” said magazines such as Departures have $5 million in liquid net assets (excluding compared with $58,355 last year, as age Jimenez, adding that, since its soft launch had in luxury advertising, it’s no wonder principal residences), compared with moved to 33.1 from 32.7 — proving you’re in October, the site has clocked up 10,000 competition is heating up in the category. 480,000 in 2002, according to Spectrum never too old. — Stephanie D. Smith visitors and 700 members. — Katya Foreman WWD ACCESSORIES

SPRING 2007 | ISSUE: FEB. 5 | CLOSE: DEC. 18

Want it. Need it. Have to have it. The ultimate shopping guide for sophisticated consumers, industry leaders, media mavens, Hollywood stylists and entertainment insiders who need to have the hottest accessories each season.

Bonus Distribution: Select Neiman Marcus InCircle customers and qualified consumers.

For more information, contact Alix Michel, associate publisher, accessories, at 212-630-4596; ™ Ron Troxell, senior account executive, at 323-965-7280, or your WWD sales representative. WWD Style Starts Here FairchildFashionGroup PHOTO BY CHARLES MASTERS