TheVolume 54,Arête Winter 2021

James Blench Member Profile Page 22

Canada's First 5.14 Mountain Guide Page 25

Tragedy at the Columbia Icefields Page 32

Blinded by the Lightning - Don Vockeroth Page 42 Contents Editorial Features President’s Perspective 4 Tragedy at the Columbia Icefields 32 Tucker Talk 6 Medical Follow-up to the Icefields Tragedy 36 Buried Book Re-release 38 News Special Delivery on the Rockwall Trail 40 Blinded by the Lightning - Don Vockeroth 42 Training and Assessment Program Update 8 Technical & Interim Technical Directors' Report 10 Technical ACMG COVID-19 Policy Update 12 Edelrid Swift Protect 8.9 mm Rope Review 44 Avalanche Best Practices Course Correction 14 ACMG Partnership Program Update 16 Member Updates Conduct Review Summary of Complaints 18 In Memory of Philippe Delesalle 46 ACMG Scholarship News 20 Diapers and Vows 48 Mentorship Committee Update 21 Changes in ACMG Membership 49 Stewardship of the Land 21 ACMG Contact Information 50 Spotlight on ACMG Members ACMG Member Profile - James Blench 22 Canada’s First 5.14 Mountain Guide 25 On the Comeback Trail - Ben Firth 26 ACMG Recognition Awards 28 Member Photo Gallery 30 The Arête "If a bad day on the slopes beats a good day at work, then ski guides should be perpetually satisfied. No?" – anonymous ski guide

Editor-in-Chief: Shaun King Editorial Consultants: Mary Clayton, Peter Tucker, Marc Piché Editorial Policy The Arêteattempts to print every submission believed to be of interest to the ACMG membership including items that challenge the Association to examine its actions or direction. Ar- ticles containing insulting or defamatory sections will be edited or not published at all. Technical articles are subject to review by the Technical Committee. Previous issues of The Arêtemay be found online at: acmg.ca/02member/communication/newsletter.asp Article submissions and advertising information Submission guidelines outlined on the ACMG members website. Submit articles and ads to [email protected]

Cover photo: New ACMG Mountain Guide Kevin Rohn is all smiles, high on the Aemmer Couloir of Mt. Temple in Lake Louise, AB. Photo: Gery Unterasinger Built for what's to come.

The Arête 2 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 3 The Arête Untitled-8 1 2020-10-29 2:47 PM Editorial Canada regarding increased bivy permits and use of the Icefields President’s Perspective campground. By Sylvia Forest Access and environment are core priorities in our current stra- tegic plan, which means we will assertively pursue Parks to lobby for access in critical guiding areas. The past year has been an intense time for avalanche of 2016, and the Massey’s avalanche of 2019. Both in- the ACMG and its members, on many lev- cidents have had significant impacts on all people involved and I also understand the concern that most of us have about the els. Clearly the biggest issue facing us now have had ramifications for the ACMG on many levels. As with predicted increase in skier/rider traffic in the backcountry this winter. Another fallout from C-19, the pressure of large numbers is COVID-19, and all the ramifications it most incidents, all those involved gained significant learnings. The ACMG is taking this learning as an opportunity to improve of riders vying for fresh lines may have multiple down-stream ef- brings to our industry. I know how hard it fects, not least of which may be an increase in incidents this win- has been on our members, and the unfor- our systems in multiple ways. Of note, the group involved in the Esplanade avalanche has embarked on a very positive campaign ter. With this in mind, I truly hope you all have a safe, uneventful, tunate reality is that there is even more un- to inform and educate the public about their story, and their in- yet fun winter. certainty going into the winter season. The sights. The ACMG has been invited to participate and contribute • Protecting the public interest, guide account- “second wave”, the closed borders, and the potential for more to this initiative, an opportunity we have embraced. ability, and the concept of becoming a bona lockdowns are very real. • Diversity, inclusion, and mental health is now part of our current fide self-regulating association, have been Executive Director Peter Tucker sent out a survey to all of three-year strategic plan, underscoring the board's support of this identified as strategic priorities for further you regarding how the pandemic has affected you. This has initiative. These topics are perhaps even more critical now, in light consultation and research. We currently are BLACKDIAMONDEQUIPMENT.COM helped us not only understand where you are at but has also of the growing spotlight on racial and gender discrimination, and not self-regulating; rather we emulate the helped with the difficult task of predicting budgets, member- the gradual acceptance in our industry that mental injury is a best practices of a self-regulating association. ship fluctuations, and what we can or cannot afford to accom- normal part of our world. Such subjects are something to be ad- An analysis of the pros, cons, and viability of such a move must be studied before a recom- plish this year. It will also help in determining what assistance dressed openly and normalized. With the devastating effects of C-19 (not just illness and death, but loss of income, identity, and mendation can be made. It is a complex is- the ACMG can give to our members, to support you through sue, so stay tuned for more information in the this difficult time. Actions such as reducing CPD requirements self-worth), it is even more critical to acknowledge the effects of mental or emotional stress, and to find systems to help manage it. months to come. If you have questions, please for this year, potentially reducing dues and fees, and providing contact your board representative. other types of assistance are all being considered. Increasingly, members are reaching out to ask for help when dealing with mental health issues. There are many avenues to • Mentorship: The mentorship committee Our training and assessment team (Derek Wilding, Geoff take, and I hope our members will take advantage of the resources has done an amazing job of providing men- Osler, and Laura Newsome) have done a huge amount of work available—a list of which is on the ACMG public website. torship opportunities, creating mentorship CPDs, and linking mentors with mentees. to ensure that courses and exams can continue. This is positive, • This summer, the tragic crash of the Brewster’s (Pursuit) Icefields as it not only allows candidates to continue their path, but also This is one of our most active committees, snow coach underscored the delicate psychological landscape in and I would really like to thank the commit- provides some employment for our TAP instructors. Although which we all potentially work, and the long-term repercussions the venue changes may not be ideal, the fact that these courses tee members for all the time and effort they of dealing with fatal or serious incidents. All ACMG members have put into this important initiative. are running is a major accomplishment. could at any time find themselves in a situation where they may If you as members have ideas about what more the ACMG need to respond to a serious incident—whether on your watch as • A new executive director: Peter is retiring this spring! We will be soliciting interest in filling can do to help you with the fallout from C-19, please don’t hesi- a guide, or as a responder to someone else’s situation (as occurred at the Icefields that day). Peter’s position. A competition for this posi- tate to contact your board representative. tion will occur this winter. The guides who responded to the snow coach rollover did Other important actions your board has been working on On a personal note, I want to thank the include the following: an amazing job, in fact putting themselves at risk to save others. I would like to thank each and every person who responded that ACMG staff for the incredible amount of • This fall, a great deal of work was put into creating our next three- day: Mike Trehearne, Kevin Rohn, Peter Lemieux, Corin Lohm- hard work they put in all year, but in par- year strategic plan. This plan was outlined by Peter in detail at ann, Tim Johnston and the Parks Canada Visitor Safety crew. I ticular during the “super week” of the BoD the AGM. If you are interested in understanding the priorities of know there were others that also responded that day. I am sorry meetings, AGM, CPDs, and public events— your association, I encourage you to review the plan, which can that I have missed your names here, but thank you too, for all be found on the members’ website. most of which were virtual (a very new thing). A GUIDE TO BEING ONE OF THE you did. There is so much work that goes on behind BEST CLIMBERS IN THE WORLD • The Critical Incident Management Plan (CIMP) is an important I also want to acknowledge all guides who respond to any document that will provide guidance to all ACMG members, the scenes to make all this a success. The week emergency during the course of their careers. We (your board was very successful, and I am grateful to them Be the fi rst woman to boulder V13. as well as the board, after a critical incident occurs. The research and staff) understand the impacts of these experiences on our and writing of this plan were awarded to Grant Statham and Jon for making it happen so smoothly! Switch to ropes after a back injury and climb 5.14+ sport. members, and we are doing all we can to have in place a support Mix it up and send 5.14b R trad. Heshka. The ACMG has hosted two presentations by Statham network necessary for healing. and Heshka (one at our annual round table event, the second Climb three free-routes on El Cap, including the coveted at the AGM), wherein they outlined the process, content, and • Access and Environment: Whether because of COVID-19, free ACMG President and Mountain Guide Sylvia second ascent of Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a). outcomes from this document. The CIMP is scheduled to be park passes in 2017 for Canada 150 celebrations, or other rea- Forest lives near Golden, BC. BE BABSI. complete in April 2021. sons, parks and public lands became drastically busier this sum- mer. This underscored the challenges for guides to find suitable live.climb.repeat. • The Incident Response and Learning System is more important objectives for their clients. I know that many guides simply don’t BD Athlete Babsi Zangerl on Magic Mushroom (VI 5.14a), Yosemite, CA Jon Glassberg now than ever, and the committee working on this will continue go to the Back of the Lake for sport climbing, or to Moraine to explore ways to encourage everyone who has had an incident ADIAN Lake for alpine climbs, because access is limited due to over- AN M C O F U O N T to report it, so we can all learn. I can’t emphasize enough how N A O I

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the ACMG staff rallied behind the idea of creating bivy sites in A • We continue to be involved to varying degrees with the aftermath critical areas of the national parks for safe access to alpine climbs. of two serious incidents involving guides. These are the Esplanade Our permit manager, Janet Miller made good inroads with Parks

The Arête 4 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 5 The Arête Editorial Tucker Talk By Peter Tucker

Half a century ago (yikes—did I really say reason for taking the group a little too close to a sag on the glacier that?) when I was at McGill University in was something the instructor didn’t see. Maybe the reason for tak- Montreal studying ecology, I took a course ing a longer, less steep approach on an off-trail hike was because called the Philosophy of Biology. The profes- another member of the group was favouring an ankle. sor was a botanist from Germany, and he is Applying the concept of umwelt is valuable in aspects of life still memorable to me after all these years for outside of guiding as well. Unless you’ve been living solo in a cave two reasons. The creepy way he pronounced for most of your life, you know that interacting with other humans the word gynoecium, which is the female re- is complicated. We are often quick to judge, quick to react in anger productive part of a flower, and his introduction to our class of the and slow to forgive. Each wired a little differently at birth; hav- concept of “umwelt”. He described umwelt as the way in which ing grown up in different family environments; attended different organisms see their environments. He showed how bees view the schools at different levels; lived in different communities in differ- world through both simple eyes (for stability and navigation) and ent parts of the world; been exposed to varying levels of privilege, compound eyes (for the ultraviolet spectrum) to find nectar. He opportunities and resources; is it any wonder that we find ourselves modelled what it would be like to see eight times more telescopi- in conflict with others who don’t see things quite as we would prefer cally (the way a falcon does) and transported us into the eyeless them to? world of a protozoan that navigates biological and chemical stimuli When we truly understand that humans operate on a loose con- in pond water. sensus of reality at best, we are less likely to think or scream, “Why In humans, even though our sensory systems are largely similar can’t you see this my way!” and more likely to say, “You see it like to one another, the complexity of the translation of those senses that? Wow, that’s amazing! Tell me more.” within our brains creates an intra-species umwelt that, once un- That level of understanding not only makes us better guides derstood, becomes transformative in the way we view our com- and instructors, but it also makes us more reasonable, kinder and munication and our behaviour. It is not only possible that two of more compassionate human beings. What guest would not want us looking at the same object or hearing the same words will com- that kind of person leading them on their adventure? prehend them differently, but also nearly impossible that it could be any other way. So, you ask, what does all this have to do with guiding or in- ACMG Executive Director Peter Tucker lives in Bragg Creek, AB. structing climbing? Well, everything. Risk management takes on a whole new level of complexity when you understand that everyone in your group will view the snow slope, the narrow ridge or the warmth rocky trail differently from you. It drives a higher level of com- munication that is required to ensure the comfort, or in some cases with stretch. the excitement, of your guests. ™ Some years ago, my niece and her family came west from On- featuring the Stretchdown Collection tario to ski in the Rockies. Go to Lake Louise, I advised…it just snowed 20 centimetres there, so you’ll have a blast! Their end of day report informed me that it had taken hours to descend Wi- waxy, the green run on the frontside of the mountain. Too much powder they said. Is there anywhere with less snow? Built for the The best guides are those who not only take the time to deter- mine the likes, desires, energy levels, fears and concerns of their guests at the pre-trip meeting, they also check in regularly dur- ing the day as terrain, weather and conditions may change the way guests view their trip. Describing why you are choosing to Biggest Lines. make a particular decision at critical junctures is a powerful way of helping guests understand how you view the path forward, giving them confidence that you are applying sound risk management To meet the demands of big-mountain principles and providing teachable moments that help their own development as mountain travellers. athletes, our latest Steep Series gear Course instructors need to be aware of umwelt too. The ones answers the call. who are in tune with this ask about a student’s decision-making process either on scene or in the end of day debrief. Perhaps the Proud Partner

The Arête 6 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 7 The Arête News With over 80 contract instructors working for the TAP, fund. On behalf of the training and assessment program and the Training and Assessment Program Update funding and financial resources have often been a barrier to instructor pool, I’d like to express my gratitude to Alison, Rob By Derek Wilding ensuring that consistent and meaningful training is accessible and the many individuals who supported the online auction, this to all. This fall, mountain guides Alison Andrews and Rob Or- funding will aid tremendously in improving the quality and con- Since relaunching its programs in June, the Climbing gym instructor programs are operating again in vig generously donated $25,000 to the instructor training fund sistency of instruction in the program. training and assessment program (TAP) all regions. Most facilities are operating with reduced capaci- and the online auction generated an additional $16,000 for the team has been busy adjusting its program ties, strict hygiene practices, and mandatory face covering poli- structures, delivery methods, and policies cies. Throughout September and October, CGI programs were 2020 Supporters & procedures to adapt to the evolving rec- delivered in Lethbridge, AB; Calgary, AB; Toronto, ON; and ommendations of public health officials; Squamish, BC. Additional courses in Canmore, AB; Victoria, The following providers offered operational support for the training and assessment programs. This support is critical to the successful and to maximize the health and safety of BC; and Toronto, ON are scheduled for later this fall. conduct of the training courses and exams and their generosity is greatly appreciated. students and instructors in the midst of the The 20% - 30% reduction in student enrolments this year pandemic. Health and wellness strategies that was projected in the spring, is likely to be accurate when The Training and Assessment Program instructors University of Lethbridge centred around proactive prevention and transmission reduction 2020 draws to a close. This is partially due to capacity issues The Alpine Club of Canada The Calgary Climbing Centre have been the program’s focus, and to date have proven to be and an inability to offer the postponed apprentice ski guide Mount Norquay Revelstoke Mountain Resort highly effective. The few on-course illnesses that have occurred, exams this year, and partially due to a decrease in overall ap- Elevation Place and the Town of Canmore Lake Louise Ski Resort all produced negative COVID-19 test results, and the majority plicant numbers. Of the 200+ students that were displaced by The Boulderz Climbing Gym Canadian Mountain Holidays of the students impacted by an on-course illness have been able the industry shut down in the spring, over 90% will have been Boulders Climbing Gym Alpine Helicopters to make up any missed trainings or assessments in order to com- accommodated on rescheduled programs before the year end. plete their course or exam. Simon Fraser University Whistler Blackcomb Considering the success of the summer programs, the deci- University of Manitoba HeliCat Canada sion was made to modularize the rescheduled 2020 ski guide Instructor Training exams. This year students will complete their exams in two 3-day Instructor training has been a high priority for the TAP for some ACMG TAP Director, Rock Guide and CGI 3 Derek Wilding lives on Piers Island, BC small group guiding assignment modules with an additional time now. With this year’s challenges, the training focus shifted technical skills assessment day incorporated into the first mod- away from in-person events to online training. The Calgary Cen- ule. Keeping the exam groups small, eliminating the use of back- tre for Sexuality was retained using funding provided by ACMG country huts, lodges and camps, and minimizing student and supporter MEC, and several Zoom sessions relating to diversity instructor exchanges, are all strategies that are being employed and inclusivity were offered throughout the summer months. to ensure these exams are successful in the current environment. These sessions provided a strong foundation for the instructor pool and the TAP to continue to build upon in the year ahead. Exam Enrolments and Pass Rates

2020 2019 2018 Adapt your crampons Qualification Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate to any challenge the Apprentice Ski Guide rescheduled 29 83% 28 93% mountains have to offer. Ski Guide 35 incomplete 29 66% 29 79% Climbing Gym Instructor 1 38 89% 64 91% 104 86% SWITCH FRONT SECTIONS Climbing Gym Instructor 2 10 70% 24 88% 30 100% for flat glacier or technical ice Top Rope Climbing Instructor 25 88% 25 96% 56 98% Via Ferrata Guide 9 100% 18 100% 11 91% SWITCH BINDINGS for approach shoes Apprentice Hiking Guide 29 86% 51 96% 38 87% or mountaineering boots Hiking Guide 10 100% 18 100% 16 100% Hiking Guide Bridge 2 100% 6 100% 14 100% SWITCH HEEL SECTIONS for tough and durable Apprentice Rock Guide 22 77% 23 78% 16 69% or fast and light Rock Guide 7 43% 4 75% 2 50% Apprentice Alpine Guide 10 90% 10 70% 9 78% Alpine Guide 3 100% 6 100% 10 70% Total 200 307 363

Switch System_ad_acmg.indd 1 10/20/20 2:46 PM The Arête 8 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 9 The Arête News

Collaboration with the CAA ITP curriculum development relevant to the hiking, rock, alpine and ski disciplines. At time of Technical and Interim Technical Directors' Report team includes more course material that addresses the forecast- Arête printing, this manual is at the publishers. ing challenges in the climbing environment (ACMG/TAP/CAA). Climbing Guide Manual: Technical skills and applications for By Marc Piché and Mike Adolph This is currently in progress, and future CAA ITP courses will rock and alpine guiding. contain case studies relating to this issue. This issue is also being addressed through the development Ski Guide Manual: Technical skills and applications for ski Stakeholder Input for the CAA's Terrain guiding. Guidelines for Avalanche Instruction and delivery of ACMG CPDs. We aim to continue this through- out future CPD events. The Canadian Avalanche Association (CAA) is nearing the final CULTURE: We continue to work on breaking down the barriers stages of the creation and implementation of this document. We Creation of Guidelines for Guiding Ratios here. Avalanche professionalism is a requirement for all members at the ACMG have been providing feedback in the hopes that working in avalanche terrain, not just those working on skis. All The ACMG is currently one of only a few IFMGA nations that the final revision meets their needs, protects the public inter- our members working in avalanche terrain should be embracing has not set guidelines for maximum ratios in various guiding con- est, and is aligned with the ACMG's scope of practice. There the benefits of CAA membership and capitalizing on the tools texts. Not surprisingly, this lack of direction is the source of many have been several challenges here, mostly arising from the need Update of the ACMG's First Aid Policy that have been created in this ever-evolving industry. The ACMG questions and confusion. The ACMG fields many questions from to meet the demands of the sled-based avalanche instruction and TAP are addressing this on these fronts: members, guests, and land managers, seeking clarity and guid- During the preliminary process of engaging with the ACMG's providers regarding the use of complex terrain and operating in 1. Promote the benefits of CAA membership. This is ongoing and ance on this topic. early executive, public land managers, and our current first aid remote areas. providers, as well as reviewing the Alberta OH&S and WorkSafe begins at the apprentice rock and ski programs. The technical committee started this discussion during the BC standards, the following has come to light. 2. Encourage the use and promote the benefits of the InfoEx for recent revision of the scope of practice. We are now comparing other IFMGA nations' policies before creating a final recommen- 1. The ability for an ACMG guide to deliver adequate and profes- ACMG guides working independently in avalanche terrain. Continued Improvement of Professional Ava- dation to be reviewed by the board. sional first aid to their guests has been a priority since almost the Our ongoing and upcoming actions here are: inception of the ACMG. With the lack of guidance from both lanche Hazard Forecasting in the Climbing 1. Working with the CAA on finding a solution to make the InfoEx provincial and national levels, the ACMG took it upon itself to Environment. more accessible to ACMG members. implement a standard in the required level of first aid, the length Pandemic Response of the course and what might be deemed equivalent to medical ACMG members who do not work in a structured avalanche 2. Engaging with members currently operating in avalanche terrain professionals who are also ACMG members. This resulted in our risk management program such as a mechanized ski operation to get feedback on how best to target our efforts. There is no doubt that COVID-19 has had an enormous impact or modern ski touring hut can miss out on a big part of their on our members. Several members have reached out to take ad- current requirement for an 80-hour Advanced First Aid course, ACCOUNTABILITY: It is crucial that all ACMG members the equivalency granted to those holding the WorkSafe BC OFA development as avalanche professionals. This can result in some vantage of the COVID-19 timeline extension for their coming working in avalanche terrain understand that they will likely be 3 and the rough guidelines for those medical professionals who difficulty applying learned concepts from the CAA Level 2 and exam. We are currently only issuing extensions into the 2021 held to the same expectations and best practices as the ski guiding are exempt from this requirement. a lack of an operational routine. CAA membership is relatively calendar year and will be revisiting this come spring. On the posi- industry should anything go wrong. The following measures are 2. Currently, there is no regulating body that oversees how profes- low among ACMG members, particularly within the climbing tive side, there have been reports of guides seeing more introduc- currently being considered: sional guide wilderness first aid is delivered in Canada. The result guide community. It is often perceived that the CAA is only tory work as our clients and the public look to tick some of their is several providers offering a variety of course and recertification of benefit for those who work on skis. Additionally, conditions 1. A requirement for mandatory avalanche related CPDs for all mountain goals. Both the TD and I-TD continue to be involved members working in avalanche terrain. options. The delivery of these has also been complicated with information sharing platforms that are currently available (apart with the communication and community groups to navigate this COVID 19. Some providers opt for online courses, some for from the InfoEx) are often public which can stifle critical in- 2. Encourage the use of the InfoEx for data submission and record wild and unpredictable landscape. Hopefully, some of you were a blended course, and some deliver their classes in person with formation sharing. Given that our climbing membership may keeping. able to Zoom in on the ACMG’s COVID and guiding winter precautions in place. This lack of consistency has resulted in some operate in some of the most challenging avalanche hazard fore- • Engage with the CAA InfoEx committee to explore options that edition or participate in the ACMG/CAA CPD online sessions confusion among members needing to complete a recertifica- would allow ACMG members to access and use the InfoEx. dealing with some of the challenges of working and training. If tion this year. As a rule, if the wilderness first aid provider you casting environments, it is time to up our game. • Model InfoEx use and best practices on ACMG TAP programs. not, some were recorded and are still available for viewing so are considering is listed on our recommended providers page on the ACMG website, your certification will be recognized. If it is • Deliver CPDs on InfoEx use. check them out. Four key areas have been identified: not, it may not be recognized, and you should consider a provider PROTECTIONISM: There can at times, be a reluctance to share who is listed on the website or contact the ITD for clarification EDUCATION: Some of the gaps that have been identified for information with the recreational climbing community. Public and or approval. Looking Ahead those working predominantly in ice and alpine climbing venues platforms such as the MIN and MCR are rarely used by guides 3. Perhaps most important is that this information gathering process include difficulty forecasting for remote areas, lack of exposure as this sometimes results in crowding at venues. If successful, our We continue to work on the following: has been a strong reminder that the ACMG is not a specialist in to the InfoEx, and a limited skill set for gathering field informa- InfoEx initiative will make considerable gains in the amount and • first aid policy update first aid and should look to move away from regulating who can tion and applying it to their day. and cannot deliver first aid courses and in what fashion. quality of available information for guides working in otherwise • avalanche hazard forecasting for alpine guides Ongoing curriculum development and implementation data-sparse areas. • revisions on the technical manual within the alpine guide certificate program addresses the chal- To shift away from regulating our wilderness first aid provid- lenges of avalanche hazard forecasting in the climbing environ- • final review and editing to the ACMG policy manual regarding the timelines policy and inclusivity ers, the ACMG has officially taken this initial step. As of October ment (TAP). Some of the changes introduced on guide training ACMG Revised Technical Manuals 31st, the ACMG will require all new first aid providers wishing ice and guide training alpine courses include: to join the ACMG's recommended provider list to either have The technical director has been working on the development of • daily use of the InfoEx ACMG Technical Director and Mountain Guide Marc Piché lives Alberta OH&S or WorkSafe BC accreditation, or be an affiliate the ACMG technical manual. Due to a significant increase in • case study review in Canmore, AB. or partnered wilderness first aid provider with a company that • professional field practices like gathering daily field observations the material needed to be developed to address gaps identified by has been accredited. Currently two options exist. An affiliation the TAP program review, the decision was made to create three • travelling with avalanche safety equipment when appropriate with Wilderness Medical Associates (WMA) or partnership with separate manuals: ACMG Interim Technical Director and Mountain Guide Mike the Canadian Red Cross Society. Adolph is based in Nordegg, AB. Core Guiding Skills: This manual will cover the foundational skills

The Arête 10 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 11 The Arête News Apprentice Guide Timelines Return to Normal Policy Management ACMG COVID-19 Policy Update Training and assessment courses are a significant expense, and Without a crystal ball, we are not able to say when we will re- By Marc Piché we recognize that for many, it will not be possible to meet the turn to the regular management of these policies. Although we 2020/21 apprentice guide timelines in their chosen discipline. are hopeful for a best-case scenario, we expect the impacts of As we head into winter and another stretch members to strive to maintain currency and develop relevant We will be granting one-year extensions, no questions asked, the pandemic to last well beyond the end of the current state of uncertainty in the guiding community, skills to the best of their ability. Here are some ideas to help stay to all those who need them. You are required to contact Mike of emergency for many members and our industry as a whole. the ACMG has updated its COVID-related sharp during the downtime: Adolph, the interim-technical director ([email protected]) to in- Knowing full well that we are dealing with a moving target, form him of your intent so he can update your membership file. we will focus on maintaining the balance described above and policy changes until spring 2021, at which Online resources: There is an incredible amount of material update members, well in advance, when we believe it is time time the situation will be re-evaluated, and available on the internet. That said, it can be challenging to We encourage all members to challenge their certificate ex- to return to holding them accountable to these membership re- the policy will be further updated. separate the good from the bad. Here are a few ideas for high- ams on time if possible. Those who can’t, please remember that quirements. Inevitably, the timing will not be perfect for all value web time. this policy intends to ensure that people remain current and fin- ish their training within a reasonable period of time. It is your members, but we hope it will be sustainable for the vast majority. • ACMG Technical Info webpage Professional Practice and Continuing Profes- responsibility to do your best to stay active and current in your • AMGA Public Tech Videos sional Development (CPD) chosen discipline(s). Consider taking this time as an opportu- Do not hesitate to contact us with any questions or con- • Canadian Avalanche Association CPD Videos (CAA Members nity to upgrade your personal, recreational skills to be better cerns: [email protected]; [email protected] Professional practice and CPDs are largely self-directed for only) prepared for the certificate exam in the future. ACMG members. A random audit process has been in place • ISSW Proceedings of Professional Papers from Montana State It must also be pointed out that the training and assessment ACMG Technical Director and Mountain Guide Marc Piché lives for nearly a decade and has ensured a level of accountability on University program has limited resources and is committed to maintain- in Canmore, AB. the currency of skills and knowledge front. The ACMG will be • ENSA YouTube Channel ing a high standard. There may be significant backlogs if many suspending the audit program until spring 2021. We will review • Harvard Backyard Meteorology course (free) members opt to take the one-year extension. If this occurs, there the state of the guiding industry and the forecast for the pan- • Petzl – Tech Tips by activity will likely be difficult decisions to be made in terms of prioritiz- demic at that time to decide when the audit process will resume. ing enrollment for exam spaces. Once audits are taking place again, members who are unable to fulfill portions of their requirements because of something Mentorship: Hours spent mentoring another ACMG pandemic related will be given provisional passes and a year to member can count for up to one half of your total required make up the difference. The Professional Practice and Continu- CPD hours. This can often result in a two-way street for more ing Professional Development document can be found on the experienced members to learn what is currently being taught on member website under Governance. TAP courses. Training with Peers: Independent guide training sessions, where members gather to learn and practice specific skills, can Professional Practice count for up to one half of your total required CPD hours. Although most members don’t have much trouble accumulat- ing the required number of professional practice hours for their First Aid chosen discipline(s) in normal times, we recognize that this may become challenging under current conditions. Consider The ACMG is not able to issue extensions for first aid certifi- increasing your recreational activities with a goal of maintaining cates. First Aid requirements are complicated because there are or even improving your movement and fitness standards. Al- many stakeholders, including land managers, employers, and S L I N though these hours won’t count toward professional practice, it government regulators for workplace safety. A Y T R may better position you for an injury-free return to work when Most ACMG approved first aid providers are offering bridge it occurs! or alternative education programs due to COVID-19. If your S L I N A D first-aid certificate is expiring this year, your first step should be A to contact your provider about your options.

Continuing Professional Development T E : M I K R The ACMG requires valid first aid certificates for two rea- T H L E The ACMG’s CPD policy is flexible and allows for many forms sons: it is a membership requirement, and it is a requirement for A of self-directed learning. Although the majority of the ACMG obtaining access to parks permits. Each of these are managed in spring CPD sessions were cancelled, there has been a full slate of different ways. “TAP instructors use and love their Intuition Liners. offerings from the ACMG and CAA, as well as the Virtual Snow Membership: If your first aid certificate is expired at the Warm, lightweight, and superior performance.” Science Workshop this fall. time of membership renewal, and you DO NOT require access While the audit program will be suspended until next year, to ACMG permits and insurance, the ACMG can offer a 90-day we encourage all members to do their best to maintain their cur- extension. You will be asked to provide proof of being registered intuitionliners.com rency or even take advantage of this time to learn and practice on a recertification course before the extension expires. CUSTOM BOOT LINERS new skills and techniques in a recreational setting. Permits: The land managers responsible for issuing permits The Professional Practice and Continuing Professional De- have confirmed that a valid first aid certificate, or a letter of SKI / SNOWBOARD / TELEMARK / ALPINE TOURING / MOUNTAINEERING velopment document outlines the many ways to accumulate the extension from the provider, are required to be named on an necessary hours, many of which are still possible given current ACMG permit. rules set by health authorities. The ACMG encourages all its The Arête 12 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 13 The Arête News

fered as a “what-to do” rather than a “how-to do”. Some of the ACMG Technical Director and Mountain Guide Marc Piché lives Avalanche Best Practices Course Correction how-to parts already exist, and others need to be developed and in Canmore, AB. delivered. By Marc Piché Stay tuned for more communication on this topic, and please get in touch with ideas to help us meet this goal. There is an elephant in the room. As is the Some of the foundational best practices for guiding in ava- case with most elephants hanging out qui- lanche terrain include: etly in the corner, it should have been hard to • Structured pre and post-trip meetings ignore, but we've done an excellent job of it • Records of all operational meetings anyway. • Thorough pre-trip information gathering (weather, avalanche occur- It has long been accepted that the mecha- rences, conditions) nized ski industry created, maintained, and • Use of terrain photos (when appropriate) evolved the standards and best practices for • Use of a 'run list' concept for opening of climbing or skiing terrain avalanche risk management in Canadian guiding. Nearly every ava- (when appropriate) lanche professional in Canada has benefitted from this tremendous • Recording of field observations resource. It has had a strong trickle-down effect reaching many countries worldwide and further solidifying Canada's leading role • Debriefing the operational day in the industry. • Sharing of observations Oddly enough, the trickle often dries up before it reaches • Appropriate avalanche safety training smaller companies and independent guides. The effect is even more • Carrying of appropriate avalanche safety equipment magnified in the climbing guide community. The intent is not to point fingers at guides or companies. It is an These procedures can be scaled to the size and nature of the admission that there are significant gaps that need to be addressed. operation, with the goal of finding a way to tick all of the boxes in The ACMG has recently concluded that there is room for consider- our daily operations regardless of the activity. It wouldn't be practi- able improvement in education, training, and defining expectations. cal or even effective to cut and paste a large heli-skiing company's There is a more "nuts and bolts" discussion of this initiative's procedures into a private ice guiding trip, but the objective is to details in the technical and interim technical directors’ report. In adapt and scale them to fit—and work. The new Rostrum Cabin under the east face of Rostrum Peak ACMG Mountain Guide Jeff Relph on "The Day After les the next few paragraphs, I'd like to hit on some of the big picture Avalanche risk presents some of the greatest uncertainty guides in the Canadian Rockies of British Columbia. Vacances de Monsieur Hulot” on the Stanley Headwall. challenges and the importance of following best practices. encounter in their decision-making process. We must position our- Photo: Larry Dolecki Photo: Gery Unterasinger selves individually to remain current on the evolving best practices, Expectations techniques, and direction of the professional avalanche world. We can achieve this by ensuring that an appropriate amount of our In principle, we believe that every ACMG member taking clients yearly CPD is aimed at avalanche safety related topics. Member- into avalanche terrain should think of themselves as avalanche pro- ship in the Canadian Avalanche Association, reading papers from, fessionals. We should be doing our best to emulate the operational or even attending the International Snow Science Workshops, are risk management procedures and best practices followed by the excellent ways to network and stay current in the ever-changing mechanized ski guiding industry. This isn't about custom-designed environment. software and high-quality projectors. It is about following a struc- We must also shift our mindset to acknowledge that avalanche Time to embrace tured risk management framework, whether working alone or in a risk is not merely a seasonal problem. Not only are the challenges the new norm. group. faced by ice climbers not well addressed in formal training, but A best practice is a professional procedure that is accepted or summer avalanche problems are virtually non-existent in any cur- prescribed as being correct or most effective. In the guiding indus- riculum. The bulletins disappear, the InfoEx goes dormant, but try, best practices tend to relate to policies and procedures, while avalanche problems often persist. If guides working in avalanche ZED The days of having to choose between light weight and common practices usually refer to technical skills and applications. terrain continue using the InfoEx throughout the summer months, downhill performance are over. Welcome to the new norm. it could become an important risk management tool year-round. The lightest fully-featured tech bindings available - Fundamentally, best practices are conventions that most guides ZED 12 and ZED 9 and companies have decided are necessary to incorporate into their We recognize that the InfoEx, in its present form, presents Simple and intuitive - easy step-in, quickflick heel lifts, single tool adjustment - so you can focus on the skiing daily operations. It is important to remember that best practices some barriers for ACMG members. A few years ago, we lobbied Go hard knowing the ZED makes no compromises are the result of learning from past mistakes, and as such, should for the Class I subscription level, and we are now back at the table in performance in the name of weight be taken seriously. Failure to follow best practices could jeopardize looking to make the platform more accessible to ACMG members safety and result in serious legal consequences in the event of an to help guides meet the expectations of best practices. The ACMG accident. will not require that guides use the platform; however, it is our duty We need to be better at adapting best practices to the guiding to inform the membership that its use has been strongly recom- industry's various facets to meet the intended outcomes. We also mended in past legal discussions and coroner reports. I'll leave it to need to improve how and when we communicate the importance you to do the math. of understanding and following these norms, enhancing our opera- This initiative represents a massive cultural shift in the guid- tions' safety, and reducing exposure to legal risks. ing community, and it won't happen overnight. This article is of- The Arête 14 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 15 The Arête News ACMG Partnership Program Update By Ken Bélanger

Program updates Of course, the auction would not have happened without the generous donations of ACMG partners and members. I’d like ev- The impact of COVID-19 continues to trample eryone to know who supported this auction and YOUR associa- over nearly everything, and marketing budgets tion. Thank them personally and refer your guests and friends! in the outdoor world are not exempt. Realiz- ing the challenges, the ACMG has adopted an Donors (in order of date received). ACMG members in RED. extremely flexible working approach with our Valhalla Mountain Touring: guided/catered backcountry lodge week partners. Despite this, we’ve had a number of Elevation Guides: 1) One guided backcountry ski/board day changes in support, and overall, it’s not the best 2) Two nights in a luxury Canmore condo news. Rather than summarising all here, please refer to the ACMG High Sights Guiding: $500 voucher toward guided hiking website for a listing of partners and their respective levels of sup- Francisco Medina: guided climbing day port. Note which companies have maintained their support, mov- ing to a lower level if necessary but still supporting our association. Edelrid: 1) Salathe helmet acmg.ca > partners 2) Protect Pro Dry 8.9 mm 60 m rope Intuition: Five prizes of a pair of boot liners: any model, any size ACMG 2020 Online Public Auction Banff Mountain Festival: Two prizes of a virtual 2020 ticket Deuter: AViANT 60 L duffel bag Although it may not always seem so, there are some positive aspects Dynafit: Rotation ST 10 ski touring bindings of this pandemic. It has forced us to re-evaluate how we have done Archetypal: 1) 2021 workshop registration certain things in the past and try new methods. Sometimes these 2) signed copy of the book Buried “novel” approaches are an improvement, and such was the case with this year’s ACMG silent auction. Mammut: 8.7 mm Alpine Sender 70 m rope The ACMG has run a silent auction for several years now. It Petzl: 1) pair of Nomic ice tools began during the members’ social, where only members and their 2) two prizes of a GriGri & Freino package invited guests could bid. In 2019 we integrated it into the Public 3) Arial 9.5 mm 70 metre rope Mountain Safety Day. This doubled our revenue as we had many All Aspects Alpine: guided backcountry ski/board day more bidders without access to industry pricing. However, they still Jen Olson: one day of guided climbing including mental strategies needed to be physically present to bid and win. MEC: $500 gift card As 2020 necessitated a mostly virtual SuperWeek, an in-person Julbo: 1) Montebianco2 sunglasses silent auction was not possible. So, we ran one online instead! We secured a solid online platform and solicited donations from 2) Monterosa2 sunglasses ACMG partners and members. It was a tremendous success with 3) ShieldM sunglasses four times more revenue than our previous (2019) high for total Mountain Hardwear: Trango 3 tent & footprint bids of $16,307!!! All proceeds went to the TAP instructor devel- Icebreaker: Merino top & bottom base layers opment fund. More funds Adam Burrell: guided backcountry ski/board day from external sources Sorcerer Lodge: 5-day guided/catered backcountry lodge trip means less funds required internally via dues etc. We Element Therapeutics: 2 x 1 hr physiotherapy sessions HOJI FREE 110 are already planning to do Margo Talbot: Two prizes of signed book All That Glitters this again in 2021, and Theresa Yau: guided rock climbing day maybe a spring auction as Ortovox: Haute Route 32 L backpack well. Eagle Pass Heli skiing*: guided day of heli-assisted ski touring. SKI HARD – WALK EASY We entered every bid *Bookings welcome from independent guides wishing to take into a random draw for their guests heli-assisted ski touring. Contact them for details. FLEX 110 an Arc’teryx SK 32 pack. Paintbox Lodge: 1-night accommodation and day of guided skiing Note this was for every LAST 102 bid (not just the bidder) so Black Diamond: one pair of Guide gloves ISO 9523 the more often individu- als would bid, the more PHOTOS: FRED MARMSATER ACMG Partnership Coordinator, Ski Guide, Hiking Guide and Via WWW.DYNAFIT.COM entries they received. Con- Ferrata Guide Ken Bélanger lives in Canmore, AB gratulations to Suzy from Canmore on her new pack! Untitled-3 1 11/9/20 2:09 PM The Arête 16 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 17 The Arête News ACMG Code of Conduct 6. Continue their professional development throughout their ca- Conduct Review Summary of Complaints reers by engaging regularly in professional practice and meeting Members of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, the required educational standards as outlined in the ACMG By Jeremy Mackenzie while: marketing or promoting themselves as ACMG members; Continuing Professional Development document. offering professional services; fulfilling their professional du- 7. Represent themselves and their certification according to the In the early spring of 2020, the ACMG Con- exchange involving alleged unprofessional conduct including the ties; otherwise engaging in activities directly associated with the ACMG Advertising and Representation standards. duct Review Committee (CRC) temporarily use of inappropriate language and threats. The conduct review ACMG, shall: 8. Carry valid land use permits, licenses or tenure agreements when suspended activities on CRC files due to the hearing was held remotely, in which David Edgar chose not to 1. Hold paramount the safety of their clients and, in so doing, shall providing professional services on public lands and ensure their COVID-19 pandemic. Work began again in participate. The hearing panel decided that there was a breach to manage reasonably foreseeable risks to the fullest extent possible liability insurance coverage meets the requirements of land man- July with several active cases. section 10 of the ACMG code of conduct. The hearing panel made commensurate with their training and experience. agers and employers. The following is a summary of the com- the following determination: 2. Assist colleagues or members of the public who are in difficulty 9. Adhere to well known or reasonably discoverable local guiding plaints (completed cases and on-going files) In the complaint filed by John Bell against David Edgar, mem- or distress in the outdoors so long as this can be accomplished practices and cultural protocols when conducting their profes- that the committee has been working on over bers of the CRC unanimously decided there was a breach of section without jeopardizing the safety of the member’s client or their sional business abroad. the past 12 months. This summary is provided primarily as an edu- 10 of the ACMG code of conduct. On October 29th, 2019, David own safety. 10. By their actions, support the dignity and human rights of all cational tool. As per the ACMG code of conduct procedures, all Edgar sent a personal email regarding a conversation about product 3. Perform professional services only in areas permitted by their people with whom they interact, irrespective of race, colour, names are excluded in these summaries except in cases that proceed warranties that John Bell had initiated on the Informalex. David’s level of certification and in accordance with the ACMG Scope ancestry, place of origin, religious beliefs, gender, gender iden- to a conduct review hearing. The ACMG code of conduct is at- email was aggressive, threatening and humiliating and was not sup- of Practice. tity, gender expression, age, physical disability, mental disability, marital status, family status, source of income, sexual orientation, tached below for reference. portive of John's dignity. This type of communication violates the 4. Conduct themselves so as to uphold the honour and reputation code of conduct and is unacceptable. The CRC decided that the of the ACMG. certification or other discernible trait or characteristic. Examples complained of email communication did breach the code of con- of unacceptable actions include, but are not limited to: For example: File #1702 duct, and that the open declaration of this conclusion is sufficient • Physical, verbal, written or electronic aggression, threat, sexual disciplinary action. No additional sanction was imposed on David • Ensure that the responsibilities of all parties to the professional harassment, bullying, shaming or humiliation In October 2017 a complaint was filed against a member in regard relationship are clear, understood and complied with. to a fatal avalanche incident at a backcountry ski-touring lodge. Edgar. The CRC hopes this decision serves to educate the ACMG • Offensive humour or other malignant reference to a person’s • Keep criticism constructive and refrain from speaking abu- discernible traits, characteristics, education or societal status This complaint was filed by a group of eight members of the pub- membership that aggressive, threatening, and humiliating emails are never acceptable. sively or in a defamatory fashion about the Association or its • Indefensible exclusion from work group or work-related social lic. The allegations primarily revolve around section 1 of the code members. of conduct (see below). During the preliminary review committee activities 5. Meet their obligations as an ACMG member as outlined in (PRC) phase the case was temporarily stayed based on advice from • Indefensible devaluation or dismissal of input or opinion ACMG Conduct Review Committee Chair and Mountain Guide ACMG bylaws, policies, governing documents and Conduct ACMG legal counsel. It was subsequently restarted with the PRC Review Committee decisions. ultimately deciding to send the case to a conduct review hearing. A Jeremy Mackenzie, lives in Canmore, AB. third-party legal counsel was retained to act as the conduct review hearing chair and a conduct review hearing panel was struck with the hearing dates still to be determined. After an extended period, the member being complained of petitioned the conduct review panel on file #1702 to dismiss the case due to unacceptable delays. After significant discussion on the matter, this petition was granted. Mountain Conditions Report/ The complainant is currently seeking a judicial order to overturn this decision. Informalex Committee Update By Brian Gould File #1902 In September of 2019, a complaint was filed against an ACMG member alleging unprofessional conduct; guiding without permits; Since managing the transition of the MCR We have heard little from the membership on issues with the and guiding activities that are not permitted on the land base. This platform from Arc’teryx to Venture Web last MCR or Informalex, so we assume all is going smoothly. complaint was filed by a member of the public. The PRC submit- year, the MCR committee has been active, ted a proposed remedy to the ACMG member being complained albeit less than usual. Most of our work recently has involved managing weekly ACMG MCR/Informalex Committtee Chair and Mountain Guide of, which was declined. This member then presented extensive new Brian Gould lives in Squamish, BC. evidence to the PRC. The PRC reviewed the new evidence and then summaries throughout the summer and decided to dismiss the complaint as they determined the original shoulder seasons, and working with Venture complaint to be unfounded. Web on minor tweaks to the site including: • Made the signup link much more visible to encourage first time viewers to join File #1903 • Created a privacy policy page on the site to ensure subscribers know what will be done with the information they provide to us This file proceeded to a full conduct review after the ACMG mem- ber being complained of, David Edgar, declined to accept a pro- • Created an RSS feed posed remedy from the PRC. In October of 2019, ACMG member • Updated the security for the content management system John Bell filed a complaint against David Edgar based on an email

The Arête 18 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 19 The Arête News ACMG Scholarship News Mentorship Committee Update By Derek Wilding By Monte Johnston 2020 Scholarship Recipients The ACMG Mentorship Committee has continued to work Hayden Buck (AHG), Holly Walker (ASG, AHG) and Markus on several initiatives this summer. This has included continued Wybrow (ARG) applied as a team for funding for a ski trip in the At this year’s virtual AGM and social, I once again had the pleasure of awarding close to $21,000 in training and assess- work towards the development of a webpage designed to con- Coast Range. The $1500 they were awarded with will help cover ment program course subsidies, equipment credits, and funded training and mentorship, to ACMG members through nect mentors and mentees. Work is expected to continue through the cost of a helicopter into the seldom visited Tzoonie area. They our many partner awards and memorial funds. the winter although COVID-19 has slowed things somewhat. A plan to spend 3-4 days exploring the area with a mentor. If you I’d like to express my gratitude to our partners for their continued funding support of the scholarship and awards mentorship day was also planned to run in conjunction with the have a mentorship idea or opportunity that needs some financial program despite the many challenges this year and thank all the members who applied. Additionally, I’d like to congrat- Revelstoke CPD’s but was abandoned due to some organizational support be sure to apply this spring. ulate this year’s recipients and to wish them all the best in their continued efforts towards their respective certifications. and COVID related challenges. We hope to be able to offer these events again once the pandemic is over. ACMG Mentorship Committee member and Mountain Guide Mon- The Robson Gmoser mentorship fund, which is awarded ACMG Centennial Scholarship ($1000 TAP course subsidy) te Johnston lives in Squamish, BC twice annually, was given to a team of three applicants this fall. Dylan Cunningham (SG, AAG) Niccy Code Memorial Scholarship ($1000 cheque) Morgen Funston (SG,RG, AAG) Brian Ebert Memorial Fund (funded training for apprentice guides) Chelsea Sullivan (ASG), Daniel Robb (AAG, ASG), Holly Walker (ASG, AHG), Jake Foster (ARG) Stewardship of the Land By Heather Davis D’Arcy McRae Memorial Scholarship ($500 TAP course subsidy) Not awarded in 2020 I became an environmental scientist because I was inspired to give As professional guides, we can take a huge role in the steward- back to the outdoors. In previous years, I suffered from traumatic ship of the land. Stewardship is more than picking up garbage Arc’teryx Scholarship (TAP course subsidies of $500, $1000 and $1500) experiences that haunted me. I turned to the outdoors for help and leave-no-trace techniques. While these are excellent leader- Alejandro Raurell (TRCI), Teresa Yau (ARG, TRCI), Robbie Chmelyk (ASG, TRCI) and healing, and this is when I fell in love with something more ship roles to set good examples of stewardship actions, there is than adventure. Our environment gives us so much and does not more to stewardship. Many of us are already stewards of the land Arc’teryx Equipment Award ($2000 equipment credit) ask for anything in return, so when I decided to return to school, I without even knowing it. Phil Widmer (AAG, ASG), Ashley Weeks (ARG, CGI 1) picked a career path that would lead me to help our environment. Professional guides take people out on the landscape and con- Arc’teryx Product Development Mentorship Award (funded training for apprentice guides) After university, I then spent years cleaning up contaminated nect them to this wondrous world. We help people get away from oil sites and reclaiming large parcels of land used for open pit min- everyday stresses. We help them to heal from trauma. We help Dave Crerar (ASG), Jamie Hood (ASG, AHG, CGI 1) ing. I didn’t always feel great about the work because I was wit- them to discover and connect with the outdoors. In that process, Gougeon Scholarship ($500 TAP course subsidy) nessing the destruction that got our land to this point. I switched they are becoming connected and starting to understand the value to government rehabilitating backcountry trails and riparian areas of our environment. As guides, we can take the next step and Jeremy McDougall (CGI 2), Bastien Villegas (CGI 2, TRCI) after the 2013 floods. I started to see a new perspective. I started learn about the sensitivities on our landscape and guide people Julbo Scholarship ($500 TAP course subsidy) to see how our land is used for multiple activities, industries, and to make good decisions both about safety and our environment. people. The pressures on some landscapes are intense and our land Stefanie Mathar (ARG, TRCI), Dave Crerar (ASG) These actions are contagious and will continue to be shared with is treated differently based on what designation our government friends, and friends of friends. MEC Community Scholarship ($500 TAP course subsidy) gives it. Our government has then set a value on our landscape Our role as professional guides is to be leaders both in safety Darren Farley (SG, ARG, HG), Meaghan Buisson (AHG), Nathalie Drotar-Roulin (HG) based on the resources that it provides, disregarding that our land- and stewardship, so that our future generations can enjoy this scape is connected and forcing industrial pressures into smaller landscape too. I feel a responsibility to learn from experts in the Lifestyle Financial Scholarship ($1000 TAP course subsidiy) and smaller parcels. field so that I can then pass down this information to others. I Jamie Hood (ASG, AHG, CGI 1) To really highlight the importance and value of our environ- feel a responsibility and a passion to share my knowledge with If you’re an apprentice guide or instructor looking to continue your training or certification, remember to login to the ACMG member ment to others is to show and connect people to the outdoors. To others so that they go home feeling connected and will themselves website to preview and apply for one or more of the awards that may be available to you. The 2021 awards application deadline is deadline help them understand that our landscape is more than a resource become stewards of the land. is August 15, 2021 and completed application forms can be emailed to the ACMG Scholarship Committee at [email protected] extraction or a joy ride of adrenaline. There is a famous quote by Baba Dioum, “In the end, we will conserve only what we love; ACMG Stewardship & Access Committee member and Hiking Guide we will love only what we understand and we will understand Heather Davis lives in Crowsnest Pass, AB. ACMG Scholarship Committee Chair, Rock Guide and CGI 3 Derek Wilding lives on Piers Island, BC only what we are taught.” When we are disconnected and don’t understand, then we are less likely to care about it.

The Arête 20 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 21 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members

During our full alpine exam in l987, James was asked to softly, it’s still feedback. Maybe in the ‘90s we weren’t as good ACMG Member Profile - James Blench demonstrate the self-extrication method. Typical to the way at the educational process to highlight that kind of feedback to James adapted and invented systems (instead of using the com- people and say, “pay attention”. By Sharon Wood plex and archaic tangle of prusiks we were shown) he used a There was also a phase where people were not alpine climb- Garda hitch and a single prussik to raise himself in a fraction of ing. It just seemed like alpine climbing was unfashionable and Last summer, I had the pleasure of in- Early teaching methods had James the usual time. His performance left our examiners stunned for we’d get people who clearly had not spent much time on that terviewing my old friend and climbing soloing a lot of ground, setting top words, and I imagine, gave top marks. Their positive reaction, in ground. As a result, the failure rate on exams was pretty high. partner, James Blench, for this profile. ropes, lapping students on early stage the era of negative feedback, was a first. James (nicknamed by some as Jimmy rock & ice multi-pitch climbs to in- the Hat) can often be recognized by spect systems, and leading guests up What is your advice for aspiring guides? the flat cap he wears. Beneath that cap alpine and rock routes. All of which Be more patient (with the climbing passion) until you have is a mind that works outside the lines contributed to a solid head, where more equity and a stronger financial position. I think when of conventional thinking—a kind of moving fast and light and the no- you’re young and climbing has high priority, you don’t have a genius. One that thinks in systems and falling rule reigned supreme. big enough picture. The young guys I see today who are getting probabilities. He could be a world- “Serendipity” led James through a way over their head in debt way too soon, have stressors that changer in any profession, and he chose string of big wall climbs. A work trip contributes to relationship destruction. So, if you’re going to ours. in l980 to the Peruvian Andes revealed be a climber or a guide, know that your income is going to be Born in Canada and raised in San that he did well at altitude, which led limited. Most of us are not going to be in the $100,000 a year Diego, California, James graduated to several expeditions to the Himala- bracket or anything approaching that amount. With this said, from high school at the age of 16. After yas starting with Gangapurna in ‘81 you might want to ask yourself, “what kind of lifestyle can I one year at San Diego State University, with Dwayne Congdon, John Lauch- carve out?” For me, developing a comfortable lifestyle couldn’t he moved to San Louis Obispo where he lan, and Dave McNab. In l982, our have happened without marrying Lesley who works as a health graduated with a music diploma and a cabal of instructors and the mountain professional, so our combined incomes made life totally easy. degree in natural resource management. community at large suffered a great James in a marijuana grove on the way into Everest, l982. In terms of advice to aspirants preparing for exams, I’d say James has always struck me as loss when John Lauchlan died in an Photo: James Blench Collection train a lot and get lots of experience in different places. I find the someone who follows his nose—pure avalanche on Polar Circus. That same rock guides who haven’t done any wall climbing stick out like a in intention and motivation rather year, James took John’s place as a team In part due to James’s personal experience with the exam sore thumb. If you’d ever done a 30-pitch wall, you’d have your than ambition. He states, “serendipity member on the Canadian Everest ‘82 process and in larger part due to an invitation from the ACMG systems and efficiency sorted out. The same thing goes for the has been good to me.” James first dis- James accepting the ACMG Platinum Award for distin- Expedition. In l984 he attempted executive, he headed up the technical committee in the early candidates who haven’t spent much time in the alpine. Maybe covered his love for adventure as a boy guished service. Photo: Jordy Shepherd Broad Peak with Jim Elzinga and cur- ‘90s. He served as technical director and examiner for several another message that is secondary and somewhat tangential is roaming the local canyons. In his late rent ACMG mountain guides Dan years and is presently a committee member. teens, without any formal introduction to climbing, he bought a Griffith, and Rob Rohn. By then James had garnered a reputa- tion as a strong high-altitude climber and team player making rope and some webbing and started inventing the craft for himself. What were your high points in serving the ACMG? He dragged friends out to the local crags where he met other climb- him a sought-after partner for a lifetime of remarkable adventures. ers and soon began frequenting Yosemite Valley. James returned to Everest in ‘86 as member of our 13-strong Ca- I’ve had enough people come to me ten or more years later after I first met James in l978 on one of his trips to the valley when nadian team on the West Ridge of Everest, followed by expedi- they’ve failed an exam who were very irate at the time and said he ambled into our campsite at Camp 4 looking for climbing part- tions to Shivling in ‘91 and Bagarathi in ‘96. All the while, he it was the best thing that ever happened to them because finally ners. There he found us—a group of instructors from the Yamnus- was squeezing in work and personal trips to the Peruvian Andes someone had given them some really direct feedback. That hap- ka Mountain School, including current ACMG mountain guides, between expeditions. pened enough, that despite my reputation as a hard liner, I think Albi Sole and Dwayne Congdon. Pale-faced and freckled with a On one of his many trips to the Andes, we climbed the Para- essentially that my judgements and intuitions were correct. sun-scorched beak, James looked more Canadian than Californian. got Route on Huascaran Norte together. I could not have hoped Soft spoken with a refreshing propensity to inquire more than dis- for a better partner for this committing route—and in less than Sharon adds: Much of James’s value—his intuition and close, James assimilated into our tribe as if he’d always belonged. desirable conditions. On the crux lead of our forward retreat, judgement came from hard-earned experience where We liked him so much that we talked him into joining our crew James in his way of getting up anything, pulled on all options, luck and rules failed him, his partners, and/or colleagues. of instructors for the next summer. I like to think James liked us including a tatty fixed rope for a good length of the pitch. Re- But his experience and those lessons have served us. so much that he remained in Canada with us to make it his home. sourceful and lucky, he would discover the top end of the rope was Together with a tight knit group of climbers, James developed anchored by no more than a thin veneer of ice. Upon reaching the and worked an ever- increasing number of courses, expanding what summit a day or two later, visibility had deteriorated from poor to What were the challenges in serving for the ACMG? was a summer mountaineering program for teenagers into a moun- nil, which extended our trip considerably. Albeit a little grumpy on our second day without food and fuel, he held steady and ut- The problem calls that would come in every end of day when I tain skills school for adults. Up until the early ‘80s, the school op- was the TD. Maybe we didn’t do a good job back then of fram- erated under the auspices of the Rocky Mountain YMCA. Within terly reliable as we stumbled our way through a seemingly endless labyrinth of crevasses. ing exam comments in a way that the candidates would not take a few short years, the mountain school’s vision grew beyond the personally (which often seemed to be the case). If I contrast that James entered the ACMG guide stream in the early ‘80s. De- scope of the YMCA’s mandate. In the mid ‘80s James and Marni to the avalanche modules, we used to get chronic comments that spite a confrontational beginning, he was generous when describ- Virtue bought the school for one dollar and incorporated it. The students weren’t getting enough feedback. We started saying in ing his examination process: “It was not very much fun. Usually expansion of the school coincided with the National Parks imple- the course introduction that when an instructor says “maybe the objectives and parameters were unclear, and feedback was too "Jimmy" pondering in a rare state of hatlessness. menting mandatory certification for teaching and guiding. James you should modify your technique in a profile”—that’s feed- late and often times unkind.” Photo: James Blench Collection described the ACMG’s role in this transition time as “adversarial”. back. If you don’t listen to it just because it’s presented kind of The Arête 22 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 23 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members

that alpine guides have to see themselves as avalanche practi- tioners. As such, they need to get involved with that end of the Canada’s First 5.14 Mountain Guide industry and hone their snowpack analysis. We saw the problem with alpine guides who aren’t in the ski program, neglect that Interviewed by The Arête part of their education. Editor’s Note: Upon news of ACMG be very selfish with your time. Most mountain guide Simon Meis climbing of my regular partners weren't that If you could do it all over again, would you have done any- 5.14, ACMG member Andrew Wexler keen on the Upper Wall. They were thing differently? urged him to write about his experi- good sports, and each gave me a I would have worked more when I was younger. I mean, in the ence for The Arête. This is thought to catch for a day, but then they moved ‘80s I guess we worked a lot, but we had all those climbing trips. be the first time a Canadian moun- on to their own climbing projects. tain guide has achieved this feat, and In desperation I began cold calling star climber Sonnie Trotter was not random people I had never met, but Would you have traded those trips in? aware of another Canadian MG who had heard might climb at the Up- had accomplished this either. per Wall. This strategy paid off and Well, maybe taking one less trip a year and adding another I soon had a lineup of kids half my month of work would have been better for me in the long run. age to trade burns with on the proj- All the playtime was great, but I think I should have done a Simon, you had already climbed ect. When it finally went down, it little more future planning. Early in the game, I was just too several 5.13s previously, but the was one of those sends where every- focused on climbing. I think it is important to have something realm of 5.14 is for pro climbers thing clicks, and it just feels easy. that you can do at a level that you find satisfactory as you get and young stars with nothing but older, given one’s inevitable change of temperament. It’s not like James at the pickup after climbing Huascaran Norte, l989. time on their hands. Not a full- I regret anything, but I think I could have done things smarter Photo: James Blench Collection time mountain guide in his mid Congrats! What an accomplish- because I never had a plan. A little less focus on climbing and forties. Walk us through your ment. Then what happened? more on diversity would have made me a more rounded person. James’s enduring propensity to inquire more than disclose all process. I thought “sweet, I’ve climbed he knows makes him an exceptional teacher, guide, mentor and I had set my sights on climbing a 5.14a!” The thing about hanging valuable member of the ACMG. I have reaped the benefits of his 5.14 and Sonnie Trotter recom- out at the Upper Wall is that ev- If you didn’t have a plan what did you have? influence and friendship for over four decades now. Early in our mended Flying Ants, a 5.14a at eryone there is CRUSHING rock careers working together, I recall standing beside him watching You guys! A bunch of good friends who liked to go climbing! I Acephale’s Upper Wall near Can- climbs. But then there were ru- a student who was flailing on a bouldering move. I held back think that network we had through the ‘80s was just amazing, more. This climb has several difficult mours that my "easy" 5.14a might from inflicting my usual bombardment of beta and instruction eh? There was always someone to go climbing with and always a bouldery sections separated by good get downgraded to 5.13d! I needed to see what James would offer. Following a sufficient amount of good trip to get connected to. or okay rests. It isn't really my style an insurance policy! Fortunately, struggle and time, James asked the student a simple question: of climbing, but Sonnie told me it a few things were in my favour: “How’s that working for you?” His method of inquiry rather was an "easy" 14a, so I got to work. Simon on Sticky Buns 13a at Planet X in Cougar Canyon. COVID-19 was persisting, so I was than telling invited the student to get just what he needed—no In the spring of 2018, after six days Photo: Gery Unterasinger under employed, and in the best more and no less. of projecting, I got really close to shape of my life. Also, I had another James claims he is not a “celebrity guide.” Some years ago, sending it but bobbled off the 5.13 exit climbing. Now I knew 5.14a that I had been chipping away at for years: Fit Bird at the when a prospective guest approached him with Mount Robson I could do it, I just needed to be stubborn. Stubborn is more Coliseum on Grotto Mountain in Canmore. This climb was my on his tick list, James told him that he couldn’t guarantee him my style. But then I went to Europe and my legs got big; then I style, and it was on one of my favorite cliffs in the Bow Valley. the peak, but if it was an adventure he was after, he was the right injured my finger; then winter happened. No send. After only six days of effort (and the previous six years of trying person for the job. In 2019 I was sure I'd send it, but weather, bad finger skin, it on and off) I had a second 14a in the bag. I thought “Phew… After James and Marni sold YMS in 1989, he continued bad fitness (insert more excuses) shut me down in the spring. safe from the downgrade!” I followed this up with accents of The working for the school (now Yamnuska Mountain Adventures) Then summer guiding took over and I didn't recover my fitness Shadow and Strike Like a Cobra (both 5.13d). “What a summer! and still does on occasion. He also works for Tyax Heliski- until fall... er... no... winter. No send. I'm going to crush on my fall road trip... oops, CANCELLED ing and the Canadian Avalanche Association teaching courses due to COVID-19... oh well.” through the winters, and as an independent guide year-round. He plays a mean guitar, has several projects on the go and draws How did things change for you in 2020? What are your thoughts looking back on it now? from a deep well of interests. He lives in Canmore, Alberta with When COVID-19 struck I saw my chance. I was in fairly good his wife Lesley Arnsdorf, their son Simon and his partner, Daisy, shape already, due to a new work schedule that allowed more In climbing today, 5.14 is no big deal. When I started climbing and geriatric cat, Oliver. home time (i.e. training). Also, a basement climbing wall at work at age fifteen, 5.14 would get you on the cover of a climbing When asked about his future he says, “Back to the bad hab- and some motivated co workers had helped while on the job. On magazine. You might even get sponsored by Jrat or Verve and The Yamnuska staff in the early 1980s. its: playing with my friends.” day one of the lockdown I scoured the internet and bought up get a free chalk bag or something. Well, I'm still waiting for my Back, L-R: Janet Miller, Rob Rohn, Chris Miller, Randy Clem- the last climbing holds and T-nuts available in Canada. Then we free chalk bag, but I think my 15-year-old self would be pretty ent, Guy Lacelle. Front, L-R: Bruce Elkin, Marni Virtue, James built a climbing wall in the garage and sheltered in place (in the impressed to know I'd climb the grade. I just wouldn't have Blench and Dwayne Congdon ACMG Alpine Guide, Apprentice Ski Guide, and Climbing Gym garage) till the weather improved and it became socially accept- believed it would take me 30 years to do it. Instructor 1 Sharon Wood lives in Canmore, AB. able to have fun outside again. Photo: James Blench Collection The problem with climbing hard projects is that you need to ACMG Mountain Guide Simon Meis lives in Canmore, AB.

The Arête 24 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 25 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members On the Comeback Trail By Ben Firth

Editor’s Note: ACMG Mountain the risk I had mismanaged only Guide Andrew Wexler, inspired a few years before. Sure enough a by the achievements of his fellow few years later I passed my alpine guides and friends, suggested that guide exam, and then my ski. I we spotlight them in this edition. was able to do this by using the Here is the firsthand account of Ben arm-wrestling technique, physi- Firth’s return to hard sending after cally unbalanced and highly de- a life-altering accident that put him pendent on my left arm. Over 10 on the sidelines from M13 mixed years I saw very slow and minor climbing and 5.13 trad climbing. improvement to my right arm but thankfully, enough to allow me to get out again. Now I have I think what Simon Meis ac- about 50% total function, and complished this summer is challenges using my hand with pretty amazing, I've watched him only 30% use of my thumb, bi- dedicate himself to the process ceps and triceps. of climbing 5.14 over the last 10 years with discipline and focus. After having kids and selling He systematically went through my business last year I resolved to the grades building the pyramid, return to rock climb at a higher he's always the last at the crag level again. So, inspired by many and the guy to squeak in one last in the community, I started sieg- route. I’m not surprised that he ing the crags. One day this spring sent 5.14 this year. He's under- I ventured into an old local area stated but very accomplished, called The Stoneworks near Can- being an IFMGA guide amongst more where I had spent some of other things. Very inspirational. my youth putting up routes. Years before I had been working toward For my part I have been climbing a blank piece of beauti- working on improving my rock Ben climbing at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. ful, pocketed water worn stone climbing for the last 25 years. It Photo: Ross Suchy at the north end of the canyon. I was going pretty well up until knew it was easy to mid-5.13. At 2007. At that time, I was climbing for myself. A selfish pursuit. the time I had endeavoured to do it on gear, placing skyhooks I was focused on Headpointing, mixed climbing and alpinism and micro tricams modeled in the spirit of UK headpointing, amongst other things, living in the mountains at high levels of but I never had the cajones to step up. Probably a good deci- risk. On Dec 26th of that year I went ski touring for the second sion in retrospect! Last spring I found out someone had recently time in my life and was caught in an avalanche at Tryst Lake bolted it as an open project so I set my efforts to try and make it (Kananaskis, AB) that raked me through a bunch of trees and happen, this time with the security of the bolts. sent me over a 60 foot cliff. I tried slowing myself by sticking my arm out initially. It turns out that clotheslining a tree at 60 I spent July and August making four-hour round trips from km/h isn't such a great idea. Thank god for K-Country visitor home in between rearing my two and four year old kids and safety, saving my life that day. I was left a little broken up in the working part time with Jasper Visitor Safety. Alongside good aftermath—broken leg, pelvis, back, arm… I spent the next five friends like Will Gadd and Jeff Moore I began piecing moves to- months in hospital recovering and putting my life back together. gether. By the end of August with the heavy support of my wife, I had to learn to walk again and adapt to having only the use of and the inspiration of the late Simon Parboosingh (who put up one arm. My right arm had suffered significant nerve damage the adjacent high quality routes, and whose fund I chair for the disabling the use of my biceps, triceps and hand. ACMG) I managed to send it. And so, The Anvil was born, and a high point reached amidst a long journey. For three years following the accident I had many surgeries and leaned on many people who are too numerous to thank God, I love climbing! here. I continued rehab and managed to slowly gain minor func- tion of my arm. It was time to get back in the mountains, so I ACMG Mountain Guide Ben Firth lives in Canmore, AB resolved to become an IFMGA guide as a goal I could strive . towards that seemed possible and would teach me to manage

The Arête 26 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 27 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members Platinum Award Platinum Award ACMG Recognition Awards Marc Ledwidge Todd Guyn New Mountain Guide Kevin Rohn

ACMG family tree. Newly certified ACMG Mountain Guide Kevin Rohn poses at the AGM with his parents Julie Timmins (former ASG) and Rob Rohn (MG).

Photo: Jordy Shepherd

Honorary Member Marc stood for three two-year terms as ACMG President during With over five years volunteering as the ACMG’s technical di- challenging and time-consuming years, as well as volunteering rector and another 10+ years on the technical committee since Guy Clarkson for numerous years on a variety of committees. His push to es- then, Todd’s service to the ACMG has been long and invaluable. tablish the ACMG as a truly national association was in large Guy was president of the ACMG during the mid and late ‘80s, a part responsible for the current partnership with Rando-Quebec. time of significant growth in the industry. As president he focused his experience and energy on securing financial stability and estab- lishing professional training standards for the association. These ef- President's Award Silver Award forts resulted in the funding and publishing of the ACMG’s first Jeremy Mackenzie Madeleine Martin-Preney manual: The Technical Handbook for Professional Guides. Guy was a heliski guide for Canadian Mountain Holidays from 1980 to 2012 and, in collaboration with ACMG Technical Director Marc Piché, created and produced a series of mountain and helicopter safety films. Guy is an award-winning filmmaker, IFMGA mountain guide, professional sailor, and commercial fixed-wing and rotor pilot. Combining his unique skill sets with a passion for storytelling, Guy’s depth of international production experience spans the globe and world’s oceans. From 2013 to the present he has been a senior producer of The Amazing Race Canada on CTV. Guy and his partner Judy live in Banff. They have four sons and a new granddaughter.

Platinum Award Jeremy Mackenzie has been a longstanding member of the Madeleine deservedly received this award for her work in creat- Janet Miller ACMG Conduct Review Committee and is currently serving ing and chairing the ACMG Mentorship Committee, as well as as the committee chair where he has helped navigate several dif- for her time on the board of directors for which she is currently Janet has both volunteered and worked for the ACMG for far lon- ficult reviews. serving her second term. ger than the requisite ten years required for this award. Our associa- tion would not be anywhere near where it is today without all her time, effort and energy. She has handled the permits portfolio since Special Recognition Award 2004, managing it through significant evolution. Janet has also volunteered since 1996 for events and on committees, including Parks Medical Council chairing the ACMG Hiking Guide Committee and sitting on the Member Services Committee. ACMG Mountain Guides Lisa Paulson and Kirsten Knech- tel nominated this group with a special mention for Dr. Kyle McLaughlin, in a letter from Lisa which outlined the significant contribution this team has had to our members involved with Parks—and really to all the guides and their clients actively using Alberta Provincial and National Parks.

The Arête 28 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 29 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members

Lake Baikal Heliskiing in Siberia. Fresh tracks in the glaciated terrain west of the Lyell Peaks, Canadian Rockies. Photo: Grigory Mintsev Photo: Larry Dolecki

Amazing sunset from the Scott Duncan Hut on the Wapta Icefields. ACMG Mountain Guide Andrew Weexler dry tooling at the Alcatraz Cave in Canmore, AB on a beautiful December day. Photo: Lyle Grisdale Photo: Erica Roles The Arête 30 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 31 The Arête Features

to the operations section, the model Tragedy at the Columbia Icefields is expanded with personnel filling ad- By Rupert Wedgwood with supporting material from Dr. Chris Turner, ditional roles within the plans and lo- gistics sections. During SAR missions Tim Johnson, Tereza Tereka, and Aaron Beardmore. the goal of this model is to support the operational strike teams with their as- Despite a long career in dead; send all the help you signed tasks. Once on site, strike team mountain search and res- can". I followed up with members may be reassigned by the op- cue, I received a jolt of some questions on flying erations chief to assume roles of higher adrenaline as I overheard the conditions and access to the priority. During the morning meeting crackling radio transmis- site with favourable reports of July 18th, we organize ourselves into sion to Jasper Dispatch. In being given to both ques- two 3-person tactical strike teams and the early afternoon of July tions in return. assigned the roles of plans chief, logis- 18th, I was catching frag- The Jasper Visitor Safe- tics chief and the IC who would double ments of an initial report; a ty program employs seven up as the operations chief. snowcoach had rolled down ACMG guides who play a Before hanging up with Mike I as- a steep moraine at the Co- leadership role in technical sured him that Parks Canada would be lumbia Icefields throwing mountain rescues. It also responding immediately, and our ETA passengers through win- draws an additional eight would be approximately one hour. dows as it tumbled multiple staff members from the Strike Team 1 was initially composed times downhill towards the ranks of the larger resource of three guides: Darren Vonk, Jesse Athabasca Glacier. conservation program who Milner, and Garth Lemke. They were Having worked in Jas- are trained in technical to kit up for a mass casualty incident per for 25 years I was very rescue and first aid. Many and be transported to the site by the The developing incident command organization chart used during the snowcoach mass casualty incident familiar with the terrain of these staff are seasoned Park’s wildfire contract helicopter, an at the Columbia Icefields. Image by R.Wedgwood and the snowcoaches’ jour- veterans who are frequently A-Star supplied by Yellowhead Heli- My initial rescue coordination actions were interrupted by an- ney at the Icefields. From The ACMG community pulled together in an impressive display of coordination and called upon during the copters. The Park's fire management team are well trained and prac- other transmission over the radio; “Papa 1 from Papa 6”. Tim John- the embarkation area high professionalism during this devastating event. Photo: Parks Canada summer months to support ticed in the incident command system and, like the visitor safety son (ACMG alpine guide/apprentice ski guide), one of our team on the lateral moraine of rescue responses when they program, has a designated team leader called the fire duty officer members on a day off from Parks was guiding on Mount Athabasca the Athabasca Glacier the route drops steeply down a graded dirt are not too busy chasing elk out of the town-site and shepherd- (FDO). As Strike Team 1 prepared for their mission I contacted and was now trying to reach me on the radio. On his descent from track onto the glacier flats. Continuing across the blue ice surface ing park visitors away from the bears. Each morning at 8:20, team the FDO, Katie Ellsworth, requesting authorization to deploy their the AA Col he had witnessed the tragedy unfold and now on site for several hundred metres, it reaches a turnaround point where members attend a Zoom meeting during which roles are assigned helicopter to the rescue site. Katie had heard the initial radio report he was taking a lead role in the initial response. He reported; 3 guests can get out and marvel at the pristine landscape which sur- in the event of a rescue that day. and had immediately understood the gravity of the events unfold- code black, 10 code red, at least 6 code yellow and an infant code rounds them. The personnel are assigned predefined roles within the incident ing. She pointed out that the fire program had staff who could help green. The last, a hopeful note to a bleak picture. Calling back to Last fall I had driven the road to gain access to the crevasses command system; a pyramid shaped organizational model used if needed, for which I thanked her, indicating that they may well be dispatch I asked that the RCMP be notified, and that we get all the and mill wells to practice crevasse rescue with the Parks Canada during emergency response. At the apex is the incident commander brought into play and should ready themselves for this event. With support we could from the STARs helicopters and neighbouring search and rescue (SAR) team. The oversized windows of the pass- (IC), a key role responsible for setting priorities and objectives. the Yellowhead A-Star helicopter now committed, I assembled a community EMS units. ing snowcoaches maximize viewing and I recall the happy faces of Moving downward in the pyramid are the general staff positions second strike team to be deployed by truck. Barb Sharp, a seasoned the vacationers as they waved to us while we practiced our skills. At of operational chief, plans chief, logistics chief and finance chief. veteran of our SAR team and ACMG ski guide, was joined by Jeff The gravity of the event was starting to sink in. More resources the end of the day the climb back up the lateral moraine seemed These positions report upwardly to the IC and if a position is unas- Andrews of a similar tenure and Matt Kennedy, a new member of would be needed. I called Banff Visitor Safety and spoke with Con- ridiculously steep as I put the suburban into four-wheel drive low signed the IC will assume those duties. During the opening act the technical rescue program, keen to gain experience. rad Janzen (ACMG mountain guide). He assembled Strike Team 3 with ACMG mountain guides Aaron Beardmore and Steve Holeczi and crawled up the intimidating gradient. Thinking back on this I of an emergency operation the three key staff officer positions are The Jasper Dispatch Centre provides 911 services and a mul- to deploy ASAP in an Alpine 407 helicopter from the Canmore tried to imagine; what would it look like if a bus lost control here? operations, plans, and logistics. At the tip of the spear and report- titude of other communications roles to more than 30 parks and hanger. Over the radio another call; Jasper Fire Command reported Up until this point on July 18th it had been a quiet day. I was ing upward to the operations chief are the tactical units referred emergency services across Canada. It is not uncommon for them on their progress down the parkway towards the accident site with on the phone with my colleague Garth Lemke (ACMG apprentice to as strike teams. Each strike team is assigned a leader. During to be juggling multiple incidents at any one time. They are highly their sirens an audible backdrop to the calm voice of their fire chief, ski guide), discussing the afternoon plans. Keying in on the radio most SAR missions the bulk of the staff are assigned to strike teams. proficient at their work and an essential part of all SAR responses in Greg Van Tighem. On my portable radio I call Zulu 1 (the fire transmission, I advised him to go to the rescue room and start pre- The operations chief will coordinate the actions of these teams to Jasper. Local radio traffic was increasing and more 911 callers were chief), to give him the latest update and let him know air support paring gear for a medical evacuation. Quickly stepping next door achieve the objectives set by the IC. The plans chief supports this by reporting multiple patients—some trapped in the wreckage. With was on the way. He suggested the fire department form an extrica- into the staff office, I joined Darren Vonk (ACMG alpine guide), formulating strategic options and assigning and tracking resources the incoming information three Park’s dispatchers worked rapidly tion section under the operations branch with additional firefight- and Jesse Milner (ACMG ski guide). Jasper Dispatch transferred supplied to the operations chief. The logistics chief will source out to notify the Jasper Municipal Emergency Services while paging the ers joining a medical section. Strike Teams 1 and 3 would form the incoming 911 call to the speaker phone in the office, saying that and deliver resources needed by the operations chief to support the local fire department members. an evacuation section and Strike Team 2 would join the medical they had Mike Trehearne, a guide at the accident site on the line. strike teams. Emergency dispatcher Tereza Tereka (ACMG top rope climbing section. Hoping that I would be dealing with an ACMG guide I introduced This approach to organizing and coordinating responses can be instructor), commented after the event, “I would like to stress the The organization model was starting to fill out, but now alone myself as a mountain guide with the Parks Canada rescue team. He used for a diverse array of activities such as avalanche control and importance of the incident command structure, as once the inci- in my office, filling the role of three section chiefs and the IC, I was responded similarly by identifying himself as an ACMG mountain wildfire management. It allows for a rapid and scalable organiza- dent commander and operations chief were established, dispatch starting to exceed my optimal span of control. Hearing the radio guide. I asked him to size the scene up for me which he did quickly tional approach to assigning scarce resources to best effect. As the staff could start focusing on their part of the response and the rest of traffic and anticipating my predicament, Brett Haug, one of the sea- and poignantly, "There are many seriously injured and likely several complexity of the incidents grows, with more resources assigned their duties without high volume radio traffic on the main channel.” The Arête 32 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 33 The Arête Features soned fire management team, stuck his I quickly found a good vantage point quest and direct resources to the site: more than 20 ambulances; ficulty or distress in the outdoors…”, but their rapid actions almost head through the doorway and asked from which I could see both sides of three STARS helicopters from Edmonton, Calgary and Grand certainly resulted in fewer lives lost and lessoned the suffering of the if I needed a hand. Having worked on the bus and announced loudly to ev- Cache; four private helicopters to sling rescuers into the site and injured during this tragic event. many large multi-day fires across the eryone my name, I worked with Parks transfer patients to waiting EMTs and doctors; and a fixed wing am- country, Brett was very comfortable Canada, and I was taking charge.” - bulance from Hinton that shuttled the critically injured to intensive in the role of plans chief and quickly Tim Johnson care units. Three and a half hours into the operation, 24 patients ACMG Mountain Guide Rupert Wedgwood lives in Jasper, AB. set about drafting an organizational The site of the accident was ap- had been removed from the accident site with the most injured be- model on the board. He also checked proximately 30 metres downhill from ing transported by ground or air under medical care. There was now in with the strike teams and tactical the snowcoach track below the steep- time to think about the care of the rescuers as they started to demo- units on route while relaying details to est moraine. The loose rock and dirt bilize. I reached out to Pursuit (the tour operators at the Icefields other responding agencies. which characterizes glacial moraine Centre) for food and water for the rescuers and then made some Brett asked me who was going would present additional challenges to calls to organize a mental health counsellor for the next day’s critical to fill the role of operations chief (to the first responders. Tim’s SAR train- incident debriefing. Recognizing a similar need for the guides who whom the tactical sections would re- ing with Parks Canada would prove had responded, I called ACMG Executive Director Peter Tucker port). Initially I had asked Jesse Milner essential as he started to size the scene and ACMG President Sylvia Forest to explain the magnitude of in Strike Team 1 to fill this role, but up and coordinated activities on site. the event and pass on my gratitude to members who had selflessly it was clear we needed all our certified He reported later, “I knew from past rushed to assist those in need. first aiders and heli-sling technicians training and experiences that an acci- Across Alberta the injured patients were transported to the with the patients. For this quickly dent of this size and scale was going medical centres by air and ground. Later that evening Dr. Chris growing operation we needed a per- to require a leader to stand back and Turner, an ACMG ski guide, would take a patient into his care at son who was familiar and comfortable delegate. It became an organizational Banff’s Mineral Springs Hospital. For commentary on his perspec- with coordinating helicopter move- exercise for me. I began identifying my tive and patient conditions see his medical follow-up article. ments, setting up staging areas and priorities; gathering patient numbers The traumatic nature of incidents such as this can have lasting organizing multiple strike teams from and conditions; setting roles and del- negative effects on first responders. This is referred to as post-trau- different agencies. Brett suggested egating tasks; and having the off-duty matic stress disorder or PTSD. The following day a psychologist was Katie Ellsworth with whom he had paramedic/ER nurse who showed up brought into our critical incident debriefing. All the participating worked on many large fires. I agreed on site try to stabilize the most critical Parks Canada staff, Jasper EMS personnel, RCMP and Yellowhead and Katie along with Kayleigh Wallace patients. pilot were invited to attend. Because of the COVID-19 precautions and Emma Freeman set off with lights Next, I started to build objectives we sat outside in a large circle in a pleasant green space behind the and sirens on to the accident site. and identify strategies and tactics to dispatch office. The first responders recalled their involvement with Veteran SAR team technician achieve those objectives. I radioed the harrowing accounts of what they had witnessed. Sometimes this was The upper staging area during the rescue response. James McCormick (ACMG top rope IC that this was going to be a heli-sling expressed with tears as the group listened and offered supporting Photo: Aaron Beardmore climbing instructor) joined Brett and operation and that we would likely words. The accident site below Mt. Andromeda I in the command post and filled the need the ‘jaws of life’ to get the pinned Following this debriefing, the counsellor, Justin-Claude Du- role of logistics section chief. Raquel Martinez, with the Parks bus driver—one of the red patients—out of the bus. Also, that mont, spent several more days in the park offering one-on-one Photo: Aaron Beardmore Resource Conservation program, teamed up with James in the ambulances and fire trucks would be unable to drive back up the counselling. I spoke with Justin during an evening session looking logistics section. Things were starting to come together as the steep hill and all rescue equipment would need to be shuttled for ways to minimize the time I knew I would spend mulling over team requested and directed resources while tracking events and in 4x4 trucks. the events during the small hours of the mornings to come. Mental updating Alberta Health Services. I started to have idle hands clean the site of debris to aid in health exercises and following practical advice on healthy living are Back at the rescue sites Kevin Rohn (ACMG mountain future packaging and transportation. By this time three or four an essential part of a long and healthy career in search and rescue guide) and Corin Lohmann (ACMG ski guide), were working RCMP members had arrived on scene but EMS or fire had yet where if neglected, even the mighty can fall. To this end I try to for the Athabasca Glacier Icewalks owned by Peter Lemieux to arrive. I announced to all responders that for the time being exercise regularly, minimize alcohol consumption, eat well, and go (ACMG ski guide) when the alarm was given. All three joined we were going to do our best to stabilize and get everyone in a to bed early. Tim Johnson and Mike Trehearne with modest first aid kits to position of comfort until more resources arrived and that the In the days that followed, the news was dominated with ac- set about helping the injured and trapped. Later I heard reports plan was going to be to heli-sling all patients to a forward stag- cident site images and interviews with witnesses. The eyes of the of their calm and professional approach as they rendered aid and ing area where they would be transferred into ambulances. public were directed towards the RCMP and their on-going inves- helped organize the onsite rescue response along with the staff Once EMS, fire, and Parks Canada Visitor Safety staff be- tigation into why the accident had happened. The lack of media from Pursuit, the snowcoach operator. gan to arrive my role shifted to becoming the liaison between commentary on the rescue response is often a clear sign to me that “The first person I met on scene was ACMG guide Kevin the EMS and the Parks Canada Visitor Safety team who were our job was done well with no controversy to create a story. The Rohn, my partner for our upcoming alpine guide exam. Know- packaging and extracting. EMS would indicate which subject scale and severity of the incident in this remote setting makes this ing what needed to take place next in terms of getting resources was the next highest priority and I would send the necessary re- a noteworthy event. As does the rapid and effective actions of the to site I asked him if it was OK if I took charge of the accident sources (vacuum mattresses, arial rescue platforms and heli-sling many first responders. site. He agreed and continued providing first aid. I then quickly technicians) to them. After all subjects were extracted from the The response from the guiding community during this event ran into IFMGA Guide Mike Trehearne and I asked about pa- accident site to advanced staging I became the liaison between should be a trigger for congratulatory reflection for all those in- tient conditions and numbers. He told me that we had at least RCMP and Visitor Safety Staff to extract the fatalities to a sepa- volved, both professionally and by happenstance. Not only did they The roof caved in as the snowcoach rolled over numerous times. 3 dead and numerous critically injured, I once again asked if rate staging.” personify the direction of the ACMG’s code of conduct point num- Photo: Parks Canada it was OK if I took charge of the accident site and he agreed. The team in the incident command post continued to re- ber 2; ”Assist colleagues or members of the public who are in dif- The Arête 34 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 35 The Arête Features Medical Follow-up to the Icefields Tragedy By Chris Turner

The events of July 18, 2020 were both tragic and incredible. To in emergency that day. My colleagues did not awaken me during see such a monumental effort by so many individuals is inspiring. the day as they anticipated that I would need to relieve them after Reading Rupert’s words emphasizes a major theme in my mind. a storm of patients. The storm never came. When I started at 10, It is not the actions of a single individual but a system that saves I received an ambulance patient from the scene as one of the last lives and reduces suffering in an event that overwhelms resources. transported. She had a fracture that required conservative manage- The incident response system allows a framework to coordinate a ment with no internal bleeding and was part of an extended family response. The provincial mass casualty plan launches a calvary of that was all on the bus. There was her husband, son, daughter- resources and is also designed using the incident response system. in-law, and baby granddaughter who had a fractured femur. Her This provincial plan has a large scope of coverage and can bring the daughter-in-law and son both went to surgery for multiple trau- entire resources of the province if needed. It can be read at alber- mas and her husband was killed. In the patient’s culture, only the tamfr.ca>Forms & Resources>MCI Response Plan. son can inform his mother of her husband’s death and bring her There is an air transport section in operations which will launch specific food. Unfortunately, with the son in surgery this process multiple helicopters and coordinate their movement with fixed was delayed by two torturous days. Eventually the son played out wing transport. This is all vital but what about poor Mike, Kevin his role while relatives brought the appropriate food. and Corin who are at the scene with their light weight first aid kits As for the Banff paramedics, Mack Wardle did a great job and a solid promise that help is coming in an hour? There is a sys- of secondary triage along with Dr. Weng, and Fabio Lacentra tem for them as well. Many may already know this, but scene safety (ACMG top rope climbing instructor) ran out from climbing at is the first priority. This could be traffic management if the incident Lake Louise to arrive in time to care for a code red patient. There is is a highway bus crash; or armed police if there is an active shooter. only one medic at risk for PTSD so far. That is because he missed The second priority is scene assessment. Do not start triaging being involved by three minutes. patients here. Remember this is the system that is going to save peo- Thanks to all ACMG members who stood up when it counted. ple, so stick to the system. This is an approximate number of victims The public has come to expect nothing less. and approximate severity. The scene assessment also includes how you would get people out of there. Where would be a good spot for secondary triage? Where would you land helicopters and how ACMG Ski Guide Chris Turner lives in Banff, AB. would ambulance flow be best achieved? Once a quick scene as- sessment is complete you call in all the resources; 911, EMS, Parks, RCMP and give them your assessment. The next thing is to set the scene up. Use available bystanders to enact the plan that was formulated in the scene assessment. This will involve people to secure all the spaces required to land helicopters, move ambulances, and perform primary and secondary triage. Once the scene is safe, organized, and help is en route it is time to triage. The START triage system is fast and easy to learn. Initially tell all the people who can walk to come to you. This identifies all the people that can ambulate and understand. This is your primary tri- age green group. Cohort them in one spot. Next go to each patient that is not green and follow a quick algorithm. First check respira- tions. If they are not breathing, clear and position the airway. If they still are not breathing, they are code black. If they start to breathe, they are red. If the patient is breathing when first seen, count their respiratory rate. If it is >30, they are red. If it is less than 30, check perfusion. If the radial pulse is absent or cap refill is >2 seconds they are red. If radial pulse is present or cap refill is <2 seconds, then check mental status. If they obey commands, they are yellow. If not, they are red. Hopefully, this helps to structure your thoughts should you be first on a tragic scene like this. More importantly, you will have a better idea of how a paramedic is likely to be thinking and can fit into their system when they arrive. Image: www.start-triage.com For those involved I will try to give some privacy sensitive fol- low-up on a few of your patients. I started a 10 pm to 8 am shift The Arête 36 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 37 The Arête Features but nothing happened; near miss events where we experienced a isolation because they are required by insurance companies to Buried Book Re-release “warning shot over the bow”; events where we or someone else stifle the flow of information during the threat of lawsuits. To By Kenneth Wylie is injured; and even events with tragic outcomes. support transparency and learning in the professional commu- nity, the individuals need to feel safe. The airline industry has achieved this by deeming “black box” information inadmissible “Is anyone strong enough to stay conscious through such teaching as Remember, the narratives we might choose: in court so that lessons from tragedy can immediately be trans- you are receiving? Probably very few.” - Ram Dass 1. Connect to your humanity and learn hard pain-filled lessons that ferred to industry and implemented. lead to growth and awareness. We have a ways to go to achieve this kind of information 2. Turn a blind eye and carry on as if there was nothing to be learned. With the re-release of Buried (a book about my participation as flow among adventure professionals if we hope to achieve the 3. Blame someone or something else. a guide in the tragically fatal “La Traviata” avalanche) on the cal- new standard for learning. As it stands, any headway we may endar, I have taken the opportunity to re-examine why I wrote have gained toward becoming healthier, resilient, courageous the book in the first place and why it remains important today. I have always envisioned that adventure has the potential to humans through adventure, can get thrown out when faced with a lawsuit or the threat of losing professional credibility. I Initially, I was compelled to write Buried. I was led to the act help us become better human beings. I use the word potential participated in this fear-based response for many years. We lose of putting fingers to keyboard because I was physically sick from because it is not a passive process, it is active. As an adventure our best selves to the system we engaged with. The process of the burden of the dissonance inside me—of having information community, we have not yet met with our potential. Fostering adventure deserves better. but not sharing it. My conflict resulted in a frozen shoulder, transparency, learning, and healing from our adventures is the debilitating joint pain and issues with my lower back. At the new standard that some are practicing well. To step up to the I have a dream for the horrific tragedy that was La Traviata time, I did not fully understand the connection between my ill- modern game we need to understand that we have a responsibil- and the loss of Kathy, Vern, Dennis, Craig, Jean Luc, Naomi, ness and a failure to harvest and share my lessons, but now I do. ity to use adventure to become better people. In doing this, we and Dave. My dream is this; that the legacy in our community protect our freedom and bring purpose to what we are doing. is the humility to learn from our adventures regardless of the There were two aspects to the information I needed to un- outcome. To make our adventures a practice in awareness that load. First was the admission that we failed our clients terribly However, we have a journey to travel with the professional helps us manage the hazardous situations we choose, and along with a laundry list of technical errors. side of adventure. It suffers. It’s a product of societal norms and structure that put financial resources ahead of our human- the way become the quality individuals we always dreamed we ity which values healing, and learning. The legal and insurance could be. It all comes down to our choice to learn. They include: systems support silence and isolation which are post tragic by- 1. A failure to protect the clients by leading twenty-one people at Locations of the parties prior to the La Traviata avalanche of 2003. products that suppress awareness, growth, and healing. Profes- ACMG Mountain Guide Ken Wylie lives in Mill Bay, BC. once, up a 33-38 degree alpine slope when the avalanche danger sionals involved in tragic outcomes tend to follow silence and rating was posted as “Considerable.” Choosing between these three paths was difficult. The as- 2. A failure to recognize the consequence of a slide on the slope we sumption I had about myself was that I would always choose were ascending. The bottom of which was flat, which would add severity to any snow that slid because it would (and did) pile up learning and never turn a blind eye or blame others. Writing deeply, making burials of our group members more serious. taught me that my ego rarely wanted to admit anything. 3. A failure to recognize the severity of two features in the snowpack Humans have a history of digging their heels in when faced that posed a significant hazard to our clients given the terrain we with the prospect that the choices they made or supported were chose: the 2002 November rain crust and a December surface wrong. Admitting error is one of the hardest things for a human hoar layer. to do, especially when the outcome is fatal. 4. A failure to listen and act on the concerns of our clients about Wrongful convictions give us a window into the denial of where we were going, and how we were positioning our groups. error phenomenon. When the legal system of police, lawyers, 5. A failure to work effectively as a guiding team to manage and and judges puts someone in jail who was wrongfully committed, mitigate the hazards present. it is nearly impossible for those involved in the case to admit er- ror. In many situations, the system would rather see an innocent person spend their life in jail, than to admit their error. Have These failures are obvious to anyone who is willing to look. a read of Mistakes Were Made; But Not By Me npr.org/books/ The deeper question to me was why did these errors come to be titles/138300923/mistakes-were-made-but-not-by-me-why-we- in the first place? It is one thing failing to make the right choice, justify-foolish-beliefs-bad-decisions-an. Once you’re done, ques- but a whole other level to understand the human behaviour that tion whether you have held yourself accountable for the errors in led to the choices that were made. This was the second part of your life or career. The truth really does set you free. my unburdening; finding these answers and sharing them in the book. Buried and its lessons gathered a cult following of people who see adventure as a practice of becoming more aware, so they can harvest important lessons early and reduce their poten- While writing, a menu of choices was before me: tial for suffering a tragic error. Interest in the work spurred me 1. Connect to my humanity and learn hard pain-filled lessons that to create—out of the book’s lessons—The Heroic Adventurer lead to growth and awareness. retreat: Mindfulness Applications for Adventure Risk Manage- 2. Turn a blind eye and carry on as if there was nothing to be learned. ment. In the retreat participants learn powerful strategies for WORLD LEADING MANUFACTURER OF SKI TOURING SKINS 3. Blame someone or something else, ignoring the process of ac- entering into high risk environments with clarity and maturity. countability (which later proved to be a rite of passage). The process explores the narratives we can choose about our ad- WWW.POMOCA.COM venture experiences in situations where we made bad choices, Untitled-6 1 11/10/20 10:07 AM The Arête 38 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 39 The Arête Features Special Delivery on the Rockwall Trail By Robert Olinger

This summer was an inter- other woman had just caught esting one in many respects, up with them at the moment and for many of us, a difficult I came along. Once I delivered one. Certainly, as a newly the message, they were be- certified apprentice hiking side themselves with joy, and guide, I wondered, heading gratitude, and had it not been into summer, what my pros- for COVID, I would have re- pects for work would be. As it ceived a firm handshake and turned out, I have reason to be two sincere hugs! After grate- grateful. fully accepting some chocolate One of the most enjoyable covered almonds, I sent them workdays I have ever had in on their way, as they had a my life, regardless of what ca- high pass to ascend, and 18 reer path I was pursuing at the km to travel with big packs. I time, occurred in late August. then texted an inReach mes- I was in Canmore with a sage to Mama, basically saying bit of time on my hands and “10:30 am, message delivered, happened to see an Informal- daughter ecstatic”. ex post which resonated with I then had the option of me instantly. The gist of the Flow Lake from Numa Pass on the Rockwall Trail, Kootenay National Park, returning the way I came, or post was that an urgent mes- BC. Photo: Bob Olinger carrying on over Tumbling sage needed to be delivered Pass and either down the to a person who was backpacking the Rockwall Trail in Kootenay creek, or continuing up and over Wolverine Pass and down Helmet National Park. I phoned the contact person on the post, and got the Creek, either of which would take me to my bike and a 13 km ride contents of the message. In essence, her daughter was camping at back to my car. In COVID times, I didn’t think hitchhiking was Numa Creek campsite that evening, with her fiancé and his mom. appropriate. It was a no-brainer for me to carry on and run the She had been on a waiting list to get into medical school and had shorter option. I was back in Canmore with cold beverage in hand been accepted. The only caveat was that she HAD to be online in later that afternoon. the morning two days later to complete the acceptance. If not, her I kept in touch with the mother until I got word that the group spot would be given to someone else. had made it out safe and sound, and so my job was done. My I still do a bit of trail running, and am familiar with that trail, employer got good value for money, her daughter got into med so I thought “I could do that …” I assured the lady that I could school, and I got paid handsomely for running a spectacular trail. deliver the message early enough the next day that the daughter and The mother wrote a nice letter to the ACMG, I got praise, every- her group could forego their last night of camping at Floe Lake, body won. and get out to the highway, and then to a Wi-Fi location by the Fast forward to early September. I received a message from a morning of the deadline. young Canmore woman with whom I had discussed running the The next morning, I stashed my road bike at the Paint Pots Rockwall Trail earlier in the summer. We couldn’t get it together parking lot (for contingency sake) and hit the trail from the Floe to do the run but she did it with a friend in August and was pretty Lake parking lot at 0630. It was a gorgeous running day, quite cool happy that she had. Of course, I couldn’t resist telling her that I to start, but bluebird. got paid a bunch of money to run it ;-) By now she was at school Heading down from Numa Pass, I began encountering hikers in Vancouver but the message she left on my voicemail went some- coming up from the campsite where the girl had been camped, and thing like this: finally spoke with one person who had actually seen them. I was “OMG, Bob, you are NOT going to believe this! I am having MASTERS OF EXPLORATION almost at the campsite before I encountered a group of four, who, a beer with friends of friends, and the guy across the table from me when I asked about the group of three, looked at me quizzically, is telling this story of his brother, his brother’s fiancée, and their After decades crafting clothing for mountaineers and alpinists, Khroma is Rab’s mom. They were backpacking a trail in Kootenay, and early one dedicated ski-specific range. Rugged, protective and reliable, Khroma is for then asked “Do you know their names?” those who love the up as much as the down. Of course, I did, and then there was a play of different emo- morning, as they were hiking up a pass, this old bugger runs up to tions over their faces, ranging from fear on the face of the Russian them out of nowhere, and delivers a message that the fiancée got mother, to shock and wonder on the other two faces. They could into med school ...” hardly grasp where I had come from, how I knew their names, how WWW.RAB.EQUIPMENT I found them, etc. There were four in the group only because an- ACMG Apprentice Hiking Guide Bob Olinger lives in Canmore, AB.

The Arête 40 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 41 The Arête Features were in the gully knocking talus down on us. We had to press into gest jolt yet. My legs went out from under me and I was on my Blinded by the Light the wall and hide for an hour until they passed the loose section, butt, half-hanging from the anchor and half sitting. The pain was delaying us even more. Meanwhile, the dark clouds were starting intense and non-stop. I could not lift or bend my legs, even with The Day Don Vockeroth was Struck by Lightning—Three Times. to boil over the top of the peak, I could hear the faint roll of thun- my hands. They felt paralyzed. I hoped I could get them to work, By Don Vockeroth as told to Elaine Powers der, and daylight was fading. because I figured I was going to need them. Just then, drifting I am not a person who gets angry easily, but now I was very through the roaring wind and pounding rain, very faintly, I heard Note: Don Vockeroth was one of None of them wanted worried—and fully pissed off. I would not be there this late in the what sounded like the women singing. I vaguely thought wow, the leading climbers of his genera- to, as they were so close day if not for the injured climber and the delays. Yet I could not that is really inspirational, what fortitude to sing into the face of tion. He was in the ACMG’s first to the top. I insisted: “I abandon them. I felt trapped, with no good options. I was mostly this tempest. But between the ringing in my ears from the explo- self-run full guide courses and ex- STRONGLY recommend mad at myself. How did I allow myself to wind up in this situa- sion and the overwhelming din of the storm, it was hard to make ams, becoming a mountain guide you descend. There might tion, and what was the best way out of it? out any words. in 1967, and is now an Honorary be something wrong with Fritz had reached the ledge and said he saw yet another one Oh God. I dreaded that it would strike again. I started count- Member. him that we can’t tell here, below him. He asked for a rope, so I sent my spare 9 mm down. ing anew, but somehow time had slowed down, and so had the like a concussion.” They Next, I sent one uninjured guy from the Calgary group, who rate of my counting. When I reached 29, it turns out at least 60 were adamant about con- stayed on the first rappel ledge. Lilo and Inga rappelled down to seconds had passed—and so had the storm. It took me three or It began like any other alpine tinuing upward. I could Fritz. Now there are seven people on the same descent route, and four minutes to wrestle my legs back under me to sit again. They climbing day. It was early sum- not talk them out of it. four people on two different stances below. did not stop hurting, but I felt I could get down now. I had to. mer, 1963. At the time, I was just I wasn’t leading them It was early summer, so the evening light lingered. But the We shivered our way through the night, all mildly hypother- a young guy in my twenties who and had no control over main worry was the storm that had finally reached us. The sky mic. I’ve never been so happy to see first light. The remainder of liked climbing and was not yet a the situation. The best turned black. The mild breeze brought a spattering of raindrops the descent that early morning involved lowering ropes from the guide. My partner Lilo Schmidt alternative seemed to be that splashed our shoulders and bounced off the rock. Then the Calgary party, Fritz and I setting rappels, me climbing back up to and I met in the pre-dawn and to help them in hopes of temperature dropped, and we were battered by high winds and help others, and rappelling again. Eventually we reached the base hiked up the trail to the base of speeding things up, as it rain, quickly becoming wet to the skin. The thunder and light- of the cliffs. The group of seven traveled together and stayed fo- the east face of Mt. Louis, which Photo: Rock Mountain Outlook. www.rmotoday.com was now afternoon. I took ning came closer. I was counting to 29 between the light and the cused as we moved carefully down the rocks and trail. Only when is near Banff. We planned to the injured man’s pack explosion of sound, which was not too bad. I figured the lightning we reached a safe location did we examine my legs and feet. My climb a line that we had never been on before. To our knowledge, and climbed upward. Fritz and Inga had already reached the sum- would soon hit the top of Mt. Louis because it always does. left leg was the most painful. The heel of my left boot had cracked no one else had either, so we thought it might be a first ascent. The mit, so Fritz hauled the pack over the top. I then descended again, open. We gingerly removed the boot, and to our surprise found day started as usual—but didn’t end that way. Darkness finally enveloped us completely, and we were re- grabbed another pack from the group, and climbed back up. signed to spending the night out in the elements. We were all no visible holes, burns, or discoloration on my feet or legs. So, I Lilo was a top athlete, and a world-class Nordic racer who had There were now three parties on the mountain for a total of sev- secure and anchored, although all in different places. My anchor laced up my boot and started slowly walking again. Lilo pulled won a Canadian championship, but she could not be on the Cana- en people: four on the summit, and three below us with one injured was a piton in a crack in the wall behind me, with a sling. The me aside and told me that during the lightning strikes, Fritz had dian Olympic team because she was from Germany. We were climb- person, who was stiff and sore, and so moving very slowly. Fritz water ran down my piton crack, soaking the sling, my harness, shouted to the two women, “We’re all gonna die!” What I mistook ing smoothly together, as we had many times before. We were about and I discussed the situation. We did not want to descend atop the and pants. I sat on a small ledge with my heels hooked on and for singing at the height of the storm was actually the unearthly halfway up when she cocked her head and asked, “Do you hear party below us on the normal route and knock rocks down through toes hanging over the abyss. Lilo, Inga, and Fritz were on the sec- wailing of pure terror. people talking?” I could. “That’s German” she said. “One accent is the chimney on them. About a week earlier, I had talked with an- ond ledge. There was room for two to sit down, but Lilo was left We all made it to the cars, even though it took us more than from Dresden, the other is Austrian. Can we go see who they are?” other climber, Wayne Smith, about another potential descent route standing. three times longer than usual to walk out. Being young and in- We traversed about 200 feet over to the normal route and met on the west side of the mountain and had gotten a description of it Now the high fury of the electrical storm burst upon us. The vincible, I did not go to the hospital immediately, thinking that up with them. It was Fritz Wiessner, a well-known climber origi- from him. It was down a gulley about 300 feet, then you must go lightning was so intense that when I closed my eyes and covered the cramping and pain would go away. I knew I was lucky that nally from Dresden who was now a US citizen. I had heard of him left or right, climb down a chimney, then you come to a 150-foot them with my hand, I could see the bones in my hand. When I the lightning strikes had not traveled through my upper body. If and was tickled to meet him in person. He was climbing with Inga rappel. I told Fritz that Lilo and I were going to give it a shot. Fritz covered them with two hands, I could see the bones overlapping. they had, I might not be alive to tell the tale. But the pain in my Steinbach, an Austrian. We had an early lunch and chatted a bit. said he and Inga would come that way too. Then I covered my eyes with my arm, and I could see the bones in legs did not disappear. In fact, it got worse over time. So, three They continued up the standard route and we traversed back to the By now, I was getting worried. Evening was approaching fast. I my arm. I have never been in light that blindingly bright. days later I found myself in the hospital. The doctor told me that new route and headed upward. cells had died inside my leg, not from the electricity, but from felt I had little control over the situation. There were far too many Suddenly, lightning hit the rock above us. It raced down I was about two rope lengths from the summit when I heard the cramping, which was so severe and so lengthy it cut off blood people involved, the Calgary group was quite slow due to the in- the water-filled crack, through the piton, the sling, and into my some belay chatter on the normal route. There were not that many supply, causing tissue death. He gave me some pills for it, and I jured man’s stiffness and pain, and I was in charge of none of them. lower legs. The pain was strong and hard, my legs collapsed, and climbers back then, and we were curious. We were so close to the don’t remember if they were antibiotics or pain meds—I didn’t So, I started to descend. I came to the left-or-right choice and I slipped off the ledge. But the piton held. I made it to a sitting top, we felt we had plenty of time. Lilo suggested we find out who much care for doctors in those days. It took me a few weeks to went left to check it out. I got to a ledge and looked down. Holy position again and thought, “Well that was not pleasant”. they were so once again, I led a traverse back over to the normal completely heal. crap! It was at least a 500-foot vertical cliff. We were in the wrong Twenty-nine counts later, there was a simultaneous flash and route. Lilo and I never recorded that climb so it was not a first ascent. place. Fritz said, “I can see a ledge below us we can rap to.” I told explosion, and I was struck again. This time the pain was much Just when I reached it, I happened to glance down and saw a Years later, a much easier descent was established. To this day, I him I did not think that was a good idea, and we should climb up worse as the electricity zapped through my legs. It was like a ter- person floating through the air, then heard thudding and scraping am not sure what I could or should have done differently. I was again and take the right fork. Fritz said no, I am going. I asked him rible muscle cramp that won’t release, but it was every muscle— as he bounced down the walls of the chimney. “Don, you have to in a situation you just plain don’t want to be in, but I also felt I if he had prussiks in case the rap did not go, and he didn’t. I again every square inch—inside and out, in both legs. This time I really go see if he needs help!” gasped Lilo. I descended and met the party could not abandon the other climbers, including the injured one, said this is not a good choice. Fritz went anyway. Now we were had to struggle to get my legs under me and sit—they were hard of three climbers from Calgary. There was blood everywhere: on the to focus on getting only Lilo and myself out. It sure was a day to truly committed. I looked up and saw the sky darkening. A storm to loosen, bend, and extend. I thought, man, if this happens again, climber who took the leader fall, on the rocks, and in various spots remember! was on its way. I’m not sure I’m going to make it. in the chimney above. After examination, it appeared the injured Just then, a hail of rocks pelted down on us. It was the Calgary climber had not broken or dislocated anything, but he had cuts and I counted another twenty-nine seconds and sure enough— group, who for some unexplained reason had decided to follow us once again, the lightning raced through my body. It was the stron- ACMG Administrative Assistant Elaine Powers lives in Rossland, BC. bruises in many places. I recommended to them that they retreat. down, rather than descending the same route they climbed. They The Arête 42 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 43 The Arête Technical

Utilizing this new test, the Protect with the aramid reinforced out and taken a bunch of huge whippers, so I can’t comment on Gear Review: Edelrid Swift Protect 8.9 mm Rope sheath performs substantially better than other ropes, regardless the Swift Protect’s performance in that style of use, however I don’t of diameter. This should provide a marked improvement in safety really see that as the application for this rope! I look to it more as By Monte Johnston should you fall and rake your rope over a sharp edge. an alpine climbing, new routing, chossy, sharp rock climbing rope. Not something you use when you’re going for the send on the local sport test piece that provides clean air for a soft catch. Edelrid Cut Resistance Test Results: On the other end of the spectrum, as a stiffer cord, it’s a little 8.9 mm Swift Protect* w/ 80 kg load: 100.6 cm less forgiving of sharp changes in direction which can cause it to pig 8.9 mm Swift Eco w/ 80 kg load: 54.0 cm tail or twist. It’s also not all that light for such a thin rope, weighing in at 53 g/m vs. 48-52 g/m for comparable sub-9 mm ropes. So, 10 mm Python w/ 80 kg load: 66.3 cm for a 60 m rope you’ll carry 60-300 g more (1-4 Clif bars). At the *86% better than the Eco & 52% better than the Python end of the day, improved safety in the mountains and on the rock A video from Edelrid showing the test and the results can be is worth a few extra grams. found at edelrid.de>Sports>Ropes>Swift Protect. It really makes you wonder how your rope would perform doesn’t it! It also has me wondering how used ropes would perform Summary: and how much resistance is lost when your cord gets a little worn Pros: and fuzzy… I’m really looking forward to more data becoming Improved safety due to the cut resistance, with good durabil- available if this test is adopted by the UIAA. ity & performance. Cons: Not Cheap! Expect to pay about $75 CAD more for the Protect. Handling: Overall: Are you willing to pay a few extra bucks for improved The Edelrid 8.9 mm Swift Protect rope. Photo: Monte Johnston TheSwift Protect comes out of the wrapping as stiff as any dynamic safety and more peace-of-mind when you’re out in the mountains? I rope I’ve ever bought, but still not as stiff as a static rope. After a definitely am! On a recent climb with a couple of friends I brought In one of the coolest climbing rope innovations for some time, cut resistance. The test basically involved a fall over an edge, if few uses the rope relaxes a little for a softer feel but is still on the the Swift Protect and my friend brought a regular 9.4 mm rope. Edelrid’s new Swift Protect has aramid woven into the sheath. the rope held the fall it passed. Unfortunately there was a flaw stiffer end of the spectrum. The Protect also has a nice tight feeling Everyone wanted to climb on the Protect! What is aramid, you ask? Well, it’s basically a very strong syn- in the test procedure, edges dull over time so not every test was weave, not at all mushy like some ropes. This allows it to run nicely thetic fibre that also goes by the brand name of Kevlar. From identical. As a result the test was abandoned in 2004 as results through a belay device, whether it’s a tube (like an ATC) or a Gri- ACMG Mountain Guide Monte Johnston lives in Squamish, BC. a functional point of view aramid fibres have good tensile were inconsistent across different testing facilities. This has left Gri, and makes it a little less prone to tangling. strength, are lightweight, tough, and heat resistant. a known weakness in climbing ropes largely unchecked since. That all sounds great so why doesn’t everyone use this stuff However, advancements in technology have also made it ripe for in their ropes? Because aramid fibres are static, which means it innovation. Durability: can be hard to add to a climbing rope without losing the all the In conjunction with developing a rope more resistant to cut- dynamic properties—but obviously not impossible! ting over a sharp edge, Edelrid has developed a test that can be I want to separate cut-resistance and durability here. Cut-resistance Edelrid has been working with the material for some time used to measure this characteristic. The test basically uses a spe- of course refers to the ability of the rope to resist severing when it and has even developed a few climbing products that use the cial saw blade to cut a loaded rope while measuring the length runs over a sharp edge, whereas durability refers to how resistant the fibre including the 6 mm Aramid Cord Sling and Rap Line II. of the cutting surface that was required to sever the rope. Not rope is to wearing out with use. They have now taken this expertise and applied it to their 8.9 a very real-world type solution but one that is reproducible and As with the Rap Line II, the aramid in the sheath of the Swift mm Swift. Using a special processing method they were able to so can be used to compare different ropes to one another. One Protect seemed to get fuzzy much faster than the surrounding nylon. reinforce the sheath of the rope with aramid to markedly in- really interesting outcome of testing different ropes on this new I found this a little concerning at first, but with continued use this crease its cut resistance while still maintaining enough stretch apparatus is that the weight on the rope matters much more than fuzzing of the surface aramid fibres didn’t seem to get any worse. In to keep the impact forces within the required standards. Quite the diameter. fact, it slowed to the point where the nylon fibres started catching an achievement! up, at a rate I found to be consistent with other ropes. It just seems to be how the aramid initially reacts to use as the rope gets broken in and the fibres harmonize within the weave. Cut Resistance: Edelrid assured me that they’ve done significant research on the subject and found that it has no negative impact on the cut-resis- We’re going to start with this particular feature as it’s what really tance. In-fact, they said a lightly used rope typically performs better! separates the new Swift Protect from the rest of the pack and is Even if it detracts a bit from the cut-resistance, the Swift Protect is the entire reason that Edelrid added aramid to the sheath. The still so much more cut-resistant compared to other ropes. basic idea is that the high-strength, cut-resistant aramid fibres will protect the rope against sharp edges and prevent a cata- strophic failure. This is a major weakness with current climbing Performance: rope designs, especially as they get thinner and thinner. Unfor- tunately it is also a feature for which ropes are not currently I know, the dynamic elongation is on the lower end of the spectrum tested. and the impact force is on the higher end, which is not all that Back in 2002 the UIAA developed a testing standard for Edelrid cut resistance testing rig. Photo: gearjunkie.com surprising, given that aramid doesn’t like to stretch. I haven’t gone

The Arête 44 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 45 The Arête Member Updates In Memory of Philippe Delesalle 1929-2020 By Chic Scott

Philippe Delesalle, the ar- His work also in- chitect who designed many cludes the hotel (1965) of our most notable moun- and the day lodge tain structures, died in (1967) at Sunshine Vil- Canmore on July 6, 2020. lage Ski Resort. Philippe was born near A keen mountain- Lille, in Normandy, France, eer, Delesalle played on September 17, 1929. a key role in design- His father was a successful ing small backcountry industrialist and Philippe shelters for skiers and grew up in a comfortable climbers: the Asulkan QUALITY. home where he learned to Hut near Rogers Pass PERFORMANCE. ride at an early age. and the first iterations INNOVATION. In 1950 Philippe set of the Balfour, Peyto and Bow Huts on the PREMIUM LONG-STRAND INNOVATION, QUALITY, AND off to travel the world but SUSTAINABILITY. fell in love with the Rocky Wapta Icefields. MERINO WOOL BASELAYERS, Mountains and settled in In 1960 with Mar- MIDLAYERS, RISE PRO 34 Banff in 1952. During tin Cohos he created AND OUTERWEAR. For ascent-oriented winter sports. the winter of 1952/53 he Cohos/Delesalle which For over 80 years, worked as a lift operator still exists today as Hestra has kept on the Strawberry rope Dialog, one of Canada’s cold hands warm. Horse "Jaka" and Philippe at Horsethief Creek in the Purcell Mountains. We have HASdesigned KEPT tow at Sunshine Village Ski most successful archi- and crafted gloves Resort where he met Hans Photo: Philippe Delesalle Collection tectural firms. HANDSfor WARMmany FORdifferent OVERpurposes, 80 YEARS. styles WITH and Gmoser who was guiding An adventurer at weather – all of TIMELESSthem withSTYLE one AND thing clients to Mount Assiniboine. The pair became fast friends and heart, Philippe lived with the Inuit in Alaska for six months, EXCEPTIONALin common: QUALITY Timeless, shared many great adventures together, including a new route uncompromised quality. crossed the Sahara Desert on foot and camel, sailed the Atlantic ANDWe CRAFTSMANSHIP, make gloves that on the east face of Mount Edith in 1953, an ascent of the East Ocean, and flew a light plane the length of the Americas. In 1970 OUR- GLOVESwhen taken ARE care of, Ridge of Mount Logan in 1959 and an attempt on the Great HIGHLYbecomes DURABLE more AND stylish he purchased Swansea Ranch in the Columbia Valley where he with time.This is our Divide Ski Traverse in 1960. In 1969 Philippe climbed the el- took great pleasure raising horses and working the land. ONLYtake IMPROVE on sustainability WITH egant Alpamayo peak, in Peru with Peter Fuhrmann and Hugh AGE.– THISit is IS OURold, TAKE but it Philippe married Mireille Le Bars in 1960 and they settled in still stands and it Considine. ON hasSUSTAINABILITY. never been more up a lovely little house in Canmore along Policeman’s Creek. They to date. Philippe graduated in 1959 with a degree in architecture from had three children—daughter Nathalie, and sons Bruno and McGill University and had a very successful career. He designed Marco (who is now an ACMG mountain guide). five churches in Calgary and Bishop Grandin High School but Philippe lived a rich and interesting life. He loved good mu- he is best known as a designer of mountain structures. In 1967 sic, good books and above all great architecture. He also was he designed Bugaboo lodge for his old friend Hans and over the a very talented photographer. He had many friends and was years designed several more heli-ski lodges for Canadian Moun- blessed with a wonderful wife with whom he shared sixty years. tain Holidays in the Cariboos, Bobbie Burns and Adamants. Phillipe Delesalle played an important role in our Rocky One of his innovations in these lodges was the adaptation of the Mountain community and was awarded the Banff Mountain double roof method by which the snow-bearing roof is separated Film Festival Summit of Excellence Award in 2011. from the standard roof by a crawl space. Innovation, Technology, and Experience Donations in memory of Philippe may be made to The Al- One of Philippe’s finest creations is the original Whyte – The Best For Grip and Glide pine Club of Canada “Philippe Delesalle Fund”, created to sup- Museum of the Canadian Rockies in Banff, which was built in port and benefit disadvantaged children and youth who would 1967-68. Philippe built the museum from what he called “noble otherwise have limited opportunities or prospects to experience materials”—stone, wood, steel and concrete. His good friend, the mountains, mountain life, and culture. Catharine Whyte (for whom the Peter and Catharine Whyte or Peyto Hut is named), asked him to design the building and GLOVE MAKERS SINCERECREATION 1936 OUTFITTERS has been an exclusive distributor of Premium Outdoor brands in Canada for over 40 years. Contact us and register for PRO Program pricing at [email protected] worked closely with him on the project. Philippe always includ- Mountain historian and ACMG Honorary Member Chic Scott, Untitled-1 1 9/24/2019 1:32:03 PM ed art in his buildings and the Whyte Museum was no excep- lives in Banff, AB. tion. He commissioned Robert Oldrich to design a steel grill and a magnificent steel candelabra which can still be seen near the stairway at the north end of the Gateway room.

The Arête 46 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 47 The Arête Member Updates Diapers and Vows Changes in ACMG Membership By Lilla Molnar June to October 2020

ACMG Appren- Congratulations & welcome newly certified ACMG guides & instructors. tice Ski Guide Mountain Guide Doyle, Jake Apprentice Hiking Kreutzweiser. Nick and Apprentice Frid, Tiege Rast, Katherine Rohn, Kevin Hiking Guide Godlington, Jesse Guide Willson, Gannon Scheiber, Konrad (IFMGA) Peter Nave was Klatt, Dustin Barron, Caeli engaged to his Lauzon, Vincent Beatty, Stephen partner Katie Alpine Guide Menter, Brett Campbell, Christopher Top Rope Climbing Instr. Ashbaugh in August, while back- Johnson, Tim Rieberger, Ryan Erb, Josh Braun, Ryan packing in Denali National Park. Rowlands, Josh Grabowski, Jonas Douglas, Luke He asked her to take a timed Apprentice Alpine Guide Von Butler, Tobias Hammond, Colleen Doyle, Jake Hartwig, Brandon Foster, Michael photo in front of Denali and Cunningham, Dylan Waring, Marcus Hebel, Anna Hardy, Dylan the Muldrow Glacier and then Farquharson, Jordan Lindsay, Jason Klemmensen, James Funston, Morgan popped the question. Hiking Guide Lucian, Tyler Linteau, Carl Latimer, Forest They will be waiting until Barrow, Patrick MacLaine, Robert Lui, Terry Majorossy, Josh COVID makes it safe to gather Diaconu, Diana Milner, Patrick MacLeod, Katie Ribi, Paul Drotar, Nathalie Morton, Kevin Matheson, Sarah in large groups again before tying Robb, Daniel Flegel, Cindy O’Rielly, Kristine Ouellette, John the knot. Taylor, Tim James, Mark Peabody, Alex Speranza, Natalie Widmer, Philip Kaipio, Chris Scotland, Jesse Terriff, Natalie Congratulations Peter and Katie! Loree, Jason Segal, Natalie Thompson, Eva Rock Guide Lyster, Clark Teale, Trisha Waldorf, Jesse Binnema, Phillip Patterson, Tim Williams, Morgan ACMG Mountain Guide Lilla Molnar lives in Canmore, AB McLane, Tony Renner, André Strachan, Ian Skinner, Chris Apprentice Hiking Guide - ASG Bridge Via Ferrata Guide Apprentice Rock Guide Hiking Guide – SG Bridge Menter, Brett Bélanger, Aurelie Baggaley, Nick Corias, Mary Claire Everts, John Irvine, Caroline Bejcar, Nicholas Flavelle, Erika Climbing Gym Instr. 1 Birt, Henry MacLeod, Katie Bruns, Justen Boshart, Zach McCormick, Byron Dahlberg, Eric Broderick, Georgia Simsons, Matt MANAGE RISK FROM YOUR WRIST Wilson, Jake

INREACH® AND INSTINCT® Stay connected and informed with inReach satellite communicators. Pair any Instinct GPS watch with an inReach device (sold separately; active satellite subscription required) to view and send messages, get weather alerts on your wrist and trigger an SOS to the GEOS 24/7 emergency response team.

The new Alexandra Cabin in Lyell Creek. Sunrise on Mt. Balfour, Wapta Icefields. Several 2000+ metre vertical ski runs end here. ©2020 Garmin Ltd. or its subsidiaries. Some jurisdictions regulate or prohibit the use of satellite communication devices. It is your responsibility to Photo: Lyle Grisdale know and follow all applicable laws in the jurisdictions where the the satellite communication device is intended to be used. Photo: Larry Dolecki

The Arête 48 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 49 The Arête ACMG Contact Information Board of Directors - Officers of the Board List is subject to change: for current infor- President Vice-President Secretary-Treasurer mation, see www.acmg.ca > Contacts Sylvia Forest Jordy Shepherd Director, Rockies Kevin Dumba Director at Large, Public Golden BC Canmore AB Calgary, AB [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Board of Directors - Elected Directors Director, Specialty Guides Director, Apprentice Guides Director, Climbing Instructors Director, Hiking Guides Director at Large, Member MG Madeleine Martin-Preney Dylan Cunningham Scott McKay Chris Kaipio Patrick Jerome Revelstoke BC Canmore , AB Canmore, AB Whistler BC Canmore, AB [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

Director at Large, Member MG Director, Interior Director, Eastern Canada Director West Coast Director at Large, Public Tim Ricci Alex Geary Stephane Gagnon Evan Stevens Ryan Morasiewicz Canmore, AB Revelstoke, BC Sainte-Anne-des-Monts, QC Garibaldi Highlands BC Vancouver, BC [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Board Advisors The Arête Newsletter ACMG Technical Director ACMG Training and Assessment Team Communications The Arête is a semi-annual publication The technical director oversees all technical stan- The training and assessment program (TAP) team oversees the Kimanda Jarzebiak focusing on relevant technical issues dards matters and chairs the technical committee. administration of the ACMG certification programs. The TAP direc- Ascent Public Affairs and news for ACMG members. The TD reports to the executive director. tor reports to the executive director. Victoria, BC Editor-in-Chief Technical Director Interim Technical TAP Director TAP Operations TAP Administrator Legal Shaun King (on special assignment) Director Derek Wilding Manager Laura Newsome G W Kent Scarborough Canmore, AB Marc Piché Mike Adolph Piers Island, BC Geoff Osler Canmore AB Scarborough Herman Bluekens [email protected] Canmore, AB Red Deer, AB [email protected] Banff AB [email protected] New Westminster, BC [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] ACMG Admin Team The admin team oversees the administration of the membership, member services, sponsorship, partnerships, CPDs/special events, communications, social media, website development, IT and accounting. The executive director reports to the president.

Executive Director Permit Manager, Permit Assistant Administrative Member Services Accounting Web, Graphics & Partnership Events & CPD Peter Tucker Assistant to ED Derek Eaton-Loken Assistant Manager Hélène L’Heureux IT Coordinator Coordinator Coordinator Bragg Creek, AB Janet Miller Canmore, AB Elaine Powers Laura Young Canmore, AB Chris Miller Ken Bélanger Sasha Ruttan [email protected] Canmore, AB [email protected] Rossland, BC Canmore, AB [email protected] Canmore, AB Canmore, AB Revelstoke, BC [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] ACMG Committees Committees are groups of volunteers who assist the board and executive director with some operational work and decicion making for the association. As a member-driven organization with limited resources, the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy. Board members typically, but not necessarily, chair each committee and the president and executive director are ex officio members of all committees. If you would like to join one of the committees, please contact the president [email protected].

Awards - Advisory Group Marni Virtue (public) Governance Membership Services Ryan Merrill Technical Chair: Chris Miller Kenzie Wade Chair: Rick Cowburn (public) Chair: Ben Firth Dave Healey Technical Director: [email protected] Darren Vonk [email protected] [email protected] Veronika Vackova Marc Piché [email protected] Lloyd Gallagher Sarah Hueniken Steve Blagbrough Christoph Dietzfelbinger Co-Chair: Mike Adolph Helen Sovdat Bree Kullman Pierre Hungr Jorg Wilz Stewardship & Access [email protected] Sylvia Forest Peter Roginski Kent Scarborough Mike Welch Chair: Chris Kaipio James Blench Marc Piché Monte Johnston (legal advisor) Lenora Carbonetto [email protected] Dwayne Congdon Markus Ebner Jonas Hoke Paul Vidalin Kori Cuthbert Jeremy McDougall Todd Guyn Brad White Kyle Chartand Kimberly Farrelly Pierre Hungr Kirk Mauthner Tyler Petrusic Incident Review Matt Stelmaschuk Craig McGee Conduct Review Jeff Relph Chair: Mark Klassen Mentorship Philip Widmer Helen Sovdat Chair: Jeremy Mackenzie [email protected] Chair: Madeleine Emily Compton [email protected] Diversity & Inclusion Kent Scarborough Martin-Preney Carla Demyen Communications Work Group Committee members added as Chair: Rachel Reimer Larry Stanier [email protected] Heather Davis Chair: Sylvia Forest [email protected] necessary. Pool includes: [email protected] Ben Firth Jordy Shepherd Willow Rigsby Marc Piché John Bell Co-chair: Matt Peter Scott McKay Olivia Sofer Derek Eaton Chris Miller Paul Berntsen [email protected] Crosby Johnston Brent Peters Al Black Geoff Osler Barry Blanchard Laura Newsome Tim Johnson Emma Russell Elaine Powers Nathan Dahl Kirsten Knechtel MCR/Informalex Patrick Lindsay Brent Peters George Field Erica Roles Chair: Brian Gould Monte Johnston Community Work Group Rod Gibbons Julie Timmins bgould@avalancheser- Scholarship Chair: Matt Peter [email protected] Neil Haggard (public) Lilla Molnar vices.ca Professional Practices Chair: Derek Wilding Mike Adolph Caroline Marion (public) Nathalie Drotar-Roulin Steve Holeczi Chair: Nathan Dahl [email protected] Alex Geary Dave Stark Morgan Rogers Conrad Janzen [email protected] Julie Timmins Janet Miller Larry Stanier Roger Yim Tom Wolfe James Blench Jordy Shepherd Lauren Shearston Leslie Taylor (public) James Madden Brent Goodman Derek Wilding

The Arête Winter 2021 Winter 2021DOCKET # 14_MISC ITEM PRINT AD FULL PAGE 51 ISSUE DECEMBER 2020 The Arête 50 PROJECT ACMC PRINT AD IMAGE FILE MICHAEL OVERBECK_2019_BACKCOUNTRY SKI-004.TIF TRIM 7.5 X 9.5

CLIENT [email protected] PHOTOGRAPHER MICHAEL OVERBECK DESIGNER [email protected] PROOF PROOF DATE NOVEMBER 4, 2020 11:19 AM FILE NAME 14_MISC_ACMG_PRINT AD_D3_7.5X9.5_FA PRODUCTION [email protected] FA MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT CO-OP 1077 GREAT NORTHERN WAY, VANCOUVER, BC V5T 1E1 604 707 3300 Partners The following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level. We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support, and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada. Logan

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The Arête 52 Winter 2021