TheVolume 54,Arête Winter 2021 James Blench Member Profile Page 22 Canada's First 5.14 Mountain Guide Page 25 Tragedy at the Columbia Icefields Page 32 Blinded by the Lightning - Don Vockeroth Page 42 Contents Editorial Features President’s Perspective 4 Tragedy at the Columbia Icefields 32 Tucker Talk 6 Medical Follow-up to the Icefields Tragedy 36 Buried Book Re-release 38 News Special Delivery on the Rockwall Trail 40 Blinded by the Lightning - Don Vockeroth 42 Training and Assessment Program Update 8 Technical & Interim Technical Directors' Report 10 Technical ACMG COVID-19 Policy Update 12 Edelrid Swift Protect 8.9 mm Rope Review 44 Avalanche Best Practices Course Correction 14 ACMG Partnership Program Update 16 Member Updates Conduct Review Summary of Complaints 18 In Memory of Philippe Delesalle 46 ACMG Scholarship News 20 Diapers and Vows 48 Mentorship Committee Update 21 Changes in ACMG Membership 49 Stewardship of the Land 21 ACMG Contact Information 50 Spotlight on ACMG Members ACMG Member Profile - James Blench 22 Canada’s First 5.14 Mountain Guide 25 On the Comeback Trail - Ben Firth 26 ACMG Recognition Awards 28 Member Photo Gallery 30 The Arête "If a bad day on the slopes beats a good day at work, then ski guides should be perpetually satisfied. No?" – anonymous ski guide Editor-in-Chief: Shaun King Editorial Consultants: Mary Clayton, Peter Tucker, Marc Piché Editorial Policy The Arêteattempts to print every submission believed to be of interest to the ACMG membership including items that challenge the Association to examine its actions or direction. Ar- ticles containing insulting or defamatory sections will be edited or not published at all. Technical articles are subject to review by the Technical Committee. Previous issues of The Arêtemay be found online at: acmg.ca/02member/communication/newsletter.asp Article submissions and advertising information Submission guidelines outlined on the ACMG members website. Submit articles and ads to [email protected] Cover photo: New ACMG Mountain Guide Kevin Rohn is all smiles, high on the Aemmer Couloir of Mt. Temple in Lake Louise, AB. Photo: Gery Unterasinger Built for what's to come. The Arête 2 Winter 2021 Winter 2021 3 The Arête Untitled-8 1 2020-10-29 2:47 PM Editorial Canada regarding increased bivy permits and use of the Icefields President’s Perspective campground. By Sylvia Forest Access and environment are core priorities in our current stra- tegic plan, which means we will assertively pursue Parks to lobby for access in critical guiding areas. The past year has been an intense time for avalanche of 2016, and the Massey’s avalanche of 2019. Both in- the ACMG and its members, on many lev- cidents have had significant impacts on all people involved and I also understand the concern that most of us have about the els. Clearly the biggest issue facing us now have had ramifications for the ACMG on many levels. As with predicted increase in skier/rider traffic in the backcountry this winter. Another fallout from C-19, the pressure of large numbers is COVID-19, and all the ramifications it most incidents, all those involved gained significant learnings. The ACMG is taking this learning as an opportunity to improve of riders vying for fresh lines may have multiple down-stream ef- brings to our industry. I know how hard it fects, not least of which may be an increase in incidents this win- has been on our members, and the unfor- our systems in multiple ways. Of note, the group involved in the Esplanade avalanche has embarked on a very positive campaign ter. With this in mind, I truly hope you all have a safe, uneventful, tunate reality is that there is even more un- to inform and educate the public about their story, and their in- yet fun winter. certainty going into the winter season. The sights. The ACMG has been invited to participate and contribute • Protecting the public interest, guide account- “second wave”, the closed borders, and the potential for more to this initiative, an opportunity we have embraced. ability, and the concept of becoming a bona lockdowns are very real. • Diversity, inclusion, and mental health is now part of our current fide self-regulating association, have been Executive Director Peter Tucker sent out a survey to all of three-year strategic plan, underscoring the board's support of this identified as strategic priorities for further you regarding how the pandemic has affected you. This has initiative. These topics are perhaps even more critical now, in light consultation and research. We currently are BLACKDIAMONDEQUIPMENT.COM helped us not only understand where you are at but has also of the growing spotlight on racial and gender discrimination, and not self-regulating; rather we emulate the helped with the difficult task of predicting budgets, member- the gradual acceptance in our industry that mental injury is a best practices of a self-regulating association. ship fluctuations, and what we can or cannot afford to accom- normal part of our world. Such subjects are something to be ad- An analysis of the pros, cons, and viability of such a move must be studied before a recom- plish this year. It will also help in determining what assistance dressed openly and normalized. With the devastating effects of C-19 (not just illness and death, but loss of income, identity, and mendation can be made. It is a complex is- the ACMG can give to our members, to support you through sue, so stay tuned for more information in the this difficult time. Actions such as reducing CPD requirements self-worth), it is even more critical to acknowledge the effects of mental or emotional stress, and to find systems to help manage it. months to come. If you have questions, please for this year, potentially reducing dues and fees, and providing contact your board representative. other types of assistance are all being considered. Increasingly, members are reaching out to ask for help when dealing with mental health issues. There are many avenues to • Mentorship: The mentorship committee Our training and assessment team (Derek Wilding, Geoff take, and I hope our members will take advantage of the resources has done an amazing job of providing men- Osler, and Laura Newsome) have done a huge amount of work available—a list of which is on the ACMG public website. torship opportunities, creating mentorship CPDs, and linking mentors with mentees. to ensure that courses and exams can continue. This is positive, • This summer, the tragic crash of the Brewster’s (Pursuit) Icefields as it not only allows candidates to continue their path, but also This is one of our most active committees, snow coach underscored the delicate psychological landscape in and I would really like to thank the commit- provides some employment for our TAP instructors. Although which we all potentially work, and the long-term repercussions the venue changes may not be ideal, the fact that these courses tee members for all the time and effort they of dealing with fatal or serious incidents. All ACMG members have put into this important initiative. are running is a major accomplishment. could at any time find themselves in a situation where they may If you as members have ideas about what more the ACMG need to respond to a serious incident—whether on your watch as • A new executive director: Peter is retiring this spring! We will be soliciting interest in filling can do to help you with the fallout from C-19, please don’t hesi- a guide, or as a responder to someone else’s situation (as occurred at the Icefields that day). Peter’s position. A competition for this posi- tate to contact your board representative. tion will occur this winter. The guides who responded to the snow coach rollover did Other important actions your board has been working on On a personal note, I want to thank the include the following: an amazing job, in fact putting themselves at risk to save others. I would like to thank each and every person who responded that ACMG staff for the incredible amount of • This fall, a great deal of work was put into creating our next three- day: Mike Trehearne, Kevin Rohn, Peter Lemieux, Corin Lohm- hard work they put in all year, but in par- year strategic plan. This plan was outlined by Peter in detail at ann, Tim Johnston and the Parks Canada Visitor Safety crew. I ticular during the “super week” of the BoD the AGM. If you are interested in understanding the priorities of know there were others that also responded that day. I am sorry meetings, AGM, CPDs, and public events— your association, I encourage you to review the plan, which can that I have missed your names here, but thank you too, for all be found on the members’ website. most of which were virtual (a very new thing). A GUIDE TO BEING ONE OF THE you did. There is so much work that goes on behind BEST CLIMBERS IN THE WORLD • The Critical Incident Management Plan (CIMP) is an important I also want to acknowledge all guides who respond to any document that will provide guidance to all ACMG members, the scenes to make all this a success. The week emergency during the course of their careers. We (your board was very successful, and I am grateful to them Be the fi rst woman to boulder V13. as well as the board, after a critical incident occurs. The research and staff) understand the impacts of these experiences on our and writing of this plan were awarded to Grant Statham and Jon for making it happen so smoothly! Switch to ropes after a back injury and climb 5.14+ sport.