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Amalfi Coast Since 2000, Spends Four Months a Year in His Is the Time of Year in Italy Wine Making

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Amalfi Coast Since 2000, Spends Four Months a Year in His Is the Time of Year in Italy Wine Making INSIDE: Sarah’s New Favorites in Italy 3 Sicily: Italy’s Hot Destination 4 Locals to Love 5 Swirl The Glass Wine Experiences 8 Le Vigne di Raito Rick Steves and Sarah Murdoch celebrating 15 years of great travel advice Adventures with Sarah: Rick SteveS’ dream of ® itAly expeRt f you have ever visited Italy, it is likely you’ve used Rick Steves as i a resource; reading one of his books, watching one of his TV shows, listening to one of his podcasts or even taking one of his tours. Even if you didn’t know it, chances are you’ve Volume 16, Issue 8 www.dreamofitaly.com October 2017 encountered Steves’ right hand woman ITA LY when it comes to all things Italy — The Unexpected Vineyards of the Sarah Murdoch. Murdoch, a former architect and Italy travel expert, has worked for Rick Steves Amalfi Coast since 2000, spends four months a year in his is the time of year in Italy wine making. In this predominately Italy, leading tours for Steves and when the air smells like mosto — vertical landscape, farmers have been updating his guidebooks. The travel bug Tthe heady scent of must cultivating grapes for centuries. This is bit her when she studied in Rome in fermenting to create wine. Often you’ll no small feat. The terraces are a work 1995. After earning a B.A. in find it unexpectedly coming of art in nature, created by a architecture and after working as an around a corner while traditional dry stone wall architect for a few years, she abandoned climbing a winding staircase construction — itself a the drawing board for the allure of the or while driving along the dying art. These terraces not open road. The rest of the year she’s home windy Amalfi Coast road. only secure the landscape in Seattle researching and lecturing and but also create functional being mom to Lucca, 13, and Nicola, 10. It is unexpected precisely spaces for cultivation. While Dream of Italy Editor Kathy McCabe because this isn’t a landscape many of the terraces are full had too many questions for her! of rolling hills covered with of the lemon trees this area postcard-worthy vineyards is most famous for, olive Dream of Italy: I’ll ask you the views. This is the landscape groves and vineyards are question everyone wants to know. How of sheer cliffs, rocky beaches, also dotted along the Amalfi did you get this job? and narrow roads barely Cantine Maria Cuomo Coast. large enough for two Fiat 500s to cross Sarah Murdoch: I went to Europe paths. It’s here in this scenic setting that some with some friends in college and of Campania’s best wines are found out about Rick Steves when I Here on the Amalfi Coast everything produced. In an area known for its went to the office to buy a rail pass. I happens in small spaces, including continued on page 6 continued on page 2 Italy is the largest wine producer in the world. Adventures with Sarah continued from page 1 the guidebook work is an honor and a huge responsibility, considering how many people rely on our independent evaluations and recommendations. it is an art form. Rick has personally trained me and has quite the work ethic. people think it is very glamorous but it is very difficult, long hours and physically taxing. started working in architecture even Architecture isn’t just practical, it this so long, I can tell what the before leaving university and was speaks about the values of the people problems are from looking at one room doing pretty well. who built it. I use — if it is well-run, clean, a good value. There were some architecture as a lens to frustrations, especially help my clients discover In the afternoon, I go to museums and feeling like being a more about the place we sites, checking every price, timetable woman was a are visiting, tracing the and strategy for a better visit. In the disadvantage in the development of the evening, I go to restaurants — 7 1 profession. urban fabric and what obviously, we can’t eat at all of them. 0 2 that evolution means for We rely on our readers as our best r e b After a frustrating day the people in a particular critics. If I see someone with a o t c at the office, my place. I am also an artist guidebook on the table, I ask them O mother-in-law asked Sarah tasting wine in my heart. I feel that what they think. Then I spend the rest 2 me what I would do if I could do architecture is the only truly interactive of the night typing until about 1 a.m. anything. Without hesitation, I said art form. I really enjoy explaining and get up at 7 a.m. to do it again the m “Oh, I don’t know, write guidebooks buildings and pointing out how we next day. o c . y for Rick Steves and travel around interact with them on an emotional l a t i Europe?” She said, “Well, why don’t as well as physical level. The most I have ever done is five f o m you?” I sent in a resume on a whim, weeks straight and it was exhausting. a e r not really being serious about it, DOI: I love to know how the sausage is Even if the workload is d . w because I had a very good job as an made when it comes to travel ridiculous, I have the advantage w w architect. I just thought, why not? And writing. What is the process for that I’m also a tour guide, I know these they called me. I took a job in the office updating the guidebook? cities inside and out. I think that is the to get a foot in the door, but once I reason we write the best guidebooks, went out on a tour, I found the job I SM: We update them yearly, some we are not just writers but tour was made for. bi-annually. The guidebook work is guides who have a deep an honor and a huge responsibility, knowledge of places and DOI: How does your degree in considering how many people rely on personal contacts with the best architecture inform your tours and our independent evaluations and information. guidebook research? recommendations. It is an art form. Rick has personally trained me and has DOI: This year you updated the Rick SM: I eventually wanted to be a quite the work ethic. People think it is Steves Florence and Tuscany 2018 book professor of architecture history, that very glamorous but it is very difficult, and Rick Steves Italy’s Cinque Terre was my plan in the architecture world, long hours and physically taxing. book. Can you tell me your best new finds and in a sense I have achieved that! I in each area? have a passion for history, and You get up in the morning and make a architecture is one of the best ways for plan over breakfast. We always try to SM: My favorite new hotel for the people to understand the civilizations visit hotels in the morning after check 2018 edition in Florence is Palazzo of the past. out and before check in. Even if they Guadagni (39 -055 -2658376 ; show me the best room, I have done www.palazzoguadagni.com ) on Piazza Cinque Terre literally Santo Spirito. I remember when this friends, including Ruth Manfredi always encourage time for fellowship hotel was a ramshackle backpacker’s from Save Vernazza on my tours, because the social aspect dive; it used to be called Sorelle Bandini. (www.savevernazza.com ) to try is often a highlight that people don’t and give visitors better ways to expect. Then I head to my room for a I hadn’t been there since the early days visit the Cinque Terre and avoid little organization time and sleep. Then of guidebook research, more than a the crowds. I do it again! decade ago. I knocked on their door out of pure About half of the trails remain DOI: How has Italy changed in the years curiosity about what had you have been visiting? happened to the hotel… and it is wonderful. The SM: I could write a book on that. I am top floor loggia has privileged to have been around to see stunning views. I’ve even the change. When I studied in Rome in gotten a few of our tour 1995, it was not the Italy you see today. groups to stay there next We had to live without a supermarket year. — you would go to a butcher, then the pasta shop, etc. Quite a shock. Siesta Directly under the hotel, Torre Campitelli Mozia, Sicily time closed down cities every day for 7 right on the piazza, is closed, unfortunately the hours, it was hard to get things done. 1 0 2 a great restaurant I’ve easiest ones, so I went in To make phone calls, I had to use a r e added as well, called search of a trail continued on page 4 b o t Tamero. It’s a funky experience that anyone c and fresh pasta bar in could do. Ruth suggested O an old automotive Framura, a little series of dream of 3 garage. They make towns to the north of the ® the pasta fresh in an Cinque Terre. You can m o c .
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