Amalfi Coast Since 2000, Spends Four Months a Year in His Is the Time of Year in Italy Wine Making

INSIDE: Sarah’s New Favorites in Italy 3 Sicily: Italy’s Hot Destination 4 Locals to Love 5 Swirl The Glass Wine Experiences 8

Le Vigne di Raito Rick Steves and Sarah Murdoch celebrating 15 years of great travel advice Adventures with Sarah: Rick SteveS’ dream of ® itAly expeRt f you have ever visited Italy, it is likely you’ve used Rick Steves as i a resource; reading one of his books, watching one of his TV shows, listening to one of his podcasts or even taking one of his tours. Even if you didn’t know it, chances are you’ve Volume 16, Issue 8 www.dreamofitaly.com October 2017 encountered Steves’ right hand woman ITA LY when it comes to all things Italy — The Unexpected Vineyards of the Sarah Murdoch.

Murdoch, a former architect and Italy travel expert, has worked for Rick Steves Amalfi Coast since 2000, spends four months a year in his is the time of year in Italy wine making. In this predominately Italy, leading tours for Steves and when the air smells like mosto — vertical landscape, farmers have been updating his guidebooks. The travel bug Tthe heady scent of must cultivating grapes for centuries. This is bit her when she studied in Rome in fermenting to create wine. Often you’ll no small feat. The terraces are a work 1995. After earning a B.A. in find it unexpectedly coming of art in nature, created by a architecture and after working as an around a corner while traditional dry stone wall architect for a few years, she abandoned climbing a winding staircase construction — itself a the drawing board for the allure of the or while driving along the dying art. These terraces not open road. The rest of the year she’s home windy Amalfi Coast road. only secure the landscape in Seattle researching and lecturing and but also create functional being mom to Lucca, 13, and Nicola, 10. It is unexpected precisely spaces for cultivation. While Dream of Italy Editor Kathy McCabe because this isn’t a landscape many of the terraces are full had too many questions for her! of rolling hills covered with of the lemon trees this area postcard-worthy vineyards is most famous for, olive Dream of Italy: I’ll ask you the views. This is the landscape groves and vineyards are question everyone wants to know. How of sheer cliffs, rocky beaches, also dotted along the Amalfi did you get this job? and narrow roads barely Cantine Maria Cuomo Coast. large enough for two Fiat 500s to cross Sarah Murdoch: I went to Europe paths. It’s here in this scenic setting that some with some friends in college and of Campania’s best wines are found out about Rick Steves when I Here on the Amalfi Coast everything produced. In an area known for its went to the office to buy a rail pass. I happens in small spaces, including continued on page 6 continued on page 2 Italy is the largest wine producer in the world. Adventures with Sarah continued from page 1

the guidebook work is an honor and a huge responsibility, considering how many people rely on our independent evaluations and recommendations. it is an art form. Rick has personally trained me and has quite the work ethic. people think it is very glamorous but it is very difficult, long hours and physically taxing.

started working in architecture even Architecture isn’t just practical, it this so long, I can tell what the before leaving university and was speaks about the values of the people problems are from looking at one room doing pretty well. who built it. I use — if it is well-run, clean, a good value. There were some architecture as a lens to frustrations, especially help my clients discover In the afternoon, I go to museums and feeling like being a more about the place we sites, checking every price, timetable woman was a are visiting, tracing the and strategy for a better visit. In the disadvantage in the development of the evening, I go to restaurants — 7

1 profession. urban fabric and what obviously, we can’t eat at all of them. 0 2 that evolution means for We rely on our readers as our best r e

b After a frustrating day the people in a particular critics. If I see someone with a o t c at the office, my place. I am also an artist guidebook on the table, I ask them O mother-in-law asked Sarah tasting wine in my heart. I feel that what they think. Then I spend the rest 2 me what I would do if I could do architecture is the only truly interactive of the night typing until about 1 a.m. anything. Without hesitation, I said art form. I really enjoy explaining and get up at 7 a.m. to do it again the

m “Oh, I don’t know, write guidebooks buildings and pointing out how we next day. o c .

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w because I had a very good job as an made when it comes to travel ridiculous, I have the advantage w

w architect. I just thought, why not? And writing. What is the process for that I’m also a tour guide, I know these they called me. I took a job in the office updating the guidebook? cities inside and out. I think that is the to get a foot in the door, but once I reason we write the best guidebooks, went out on a tour, I found the job I SM: We update them yearly, some we are not just writers but tour was made for. bi-annually. The guidebook work is guides who have a deep an honor and a huge responsibility, knowledge of places and DOI: How does your degree in considering how many people rely on personal contacts with the best architecture inform your tours and our independent evaluations and information. guidebook research? recommendations. It is an art form. Rick has personally trained me and has DOI: This year you updated the Rick SM: I eventually wanted to be a quite the work ethic. People think it is Steves Florence and Tuscany 2018 book professor of architecture history, that very glamorous but it is very difficult, and Rick Steves Italy’s Cinque Terre was my plan in the architecture world, long hours and physically taxing. book. Can you tell me your best new finds and in a sense I have achieved that! I in each area? have a passion for history, and You get up in the morning and make a architecture is one of the best ways for plan over breakfast. We always try to SM: My favorite new hotel for the people to understand the civilizations visit hotels in the morning after check 2018 edition in Florence is Palazzo of the past. out and before check in. Even if they Guadagni (39 -055 -2658376 ; show me the best room, I have done www.palazzoguadagni.com ) on Piazza Cinque Terre literally Santo Spirito. I remember when this friends, including Ruth Manfredi always encourage time for fellowship hotel was a ramshackle backpacker’s from Save Vernazza on my tours, because the social aspect dive; it used to be called Sorelle Bandini. (www.savevernazza.com ) to try is often a highlight that people don’t and give visitors better ways to expect. Then I head to my room for a I hadn’t been there since the early days visit the Cinque Terre and avoid little organization time and sleep. Then of guidebook research, more than a the crowds. I do it again! decade ago. I knocked on their door out of pure About half of the trails remain DOI: How has Italy changed in the years curiosity about what had you have been visiting? happened to the hotel… and it is wonderful. The SM: I could write a book on that. I am top floor loggia has privileged to have been around to see stunning views. I’ve even the change. When I studied in Rome in gotten a few of our tour 1995, it was not the Italy you see today. groups to stay there next We had to live without a supermarket year. — you would go to a butcher, then the pasta shop, etc. Quite a shock. Siesta Directly under the hotel, Torre Campitelli Mozia, Sicily time closed down cities every day for 7

right on the piazza, is closed, unfortunately the hours, it was hard to get things done. 1 0 2 a great restaurant I’ve easiest ones, so I went in To make phone calls, I had to use a r e

added as well, called search of a trail continued on page 4 b o t Tamero. It’s a funky experience that anyone c and fresh pasta bar in could do. Ruth suggested O an old automotive Framura, a little series of dream of 3 garage. They make towns to the north of the ®

the pasta fresh in an Cinque Terre. You can m o c .

open kitchen. I’ve walk or ride a bike on a y l

ITALY a

Kathleen A. McCabe t done a couple of tour flat trail from Levanto, i Framura, Cinque Terre f

Editor in Chief and Publisher o

group dinners here, and my clients then do the cliff-side walk at Framura m a e

loved it. to a pretty little beach. Anyone can do r

Executive Editor: Bethanne Patrick d .

it! It’s brand new this year, and I’ve Associate Editor: Elaine Murphy w Design: Kim Leaird w It’s rare to find anything truly new in written it up for the 2018 edition. w www.leaird-designs.com Tuscany, but I did find something cool in San Gimignano, of all places. They DOI: What’s a typical day like when you Dream of Italy, the subscription travel newsletter cover - ing Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a have recently opened up a Torre are guiding a Rick Steves Tour? year. Delivery by mail is $87 in the U.S., Canada and Campitelli as a museum. It’s a period abroad. A digital subscription (downloadable PDFs) costs $77 per year. Subscriptions include online access to home, furnished with the former SM: Today was a good example — we more than 140 back issues and regular e-mail updates. owner’s belongings and displaying started about 9 a.m. We were joined by Three ways to subscribe: their story. They have a section of a local guide with expert knowledge of 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 2025, tower house visible with the floors cut the area. We took a boat ride out to an Denver, CO 80201 2. Call 202-297-3708 away, to see the structure. Very cool. I island in the salt flats of western Sicily, 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, love period homes and try to find one and got a tour of the Phoenician ruins Mastercard and American Express accepted) in each city I research. I think it really there. I arranged a country lunch on Editorial feedback is welcome. E-mail: [email protected] connects you to the history in a the island with fresh salads, pasta, Advertising opportunities are available. personal way. cheese and bread, with plenty of local E-mail: [email protected] wine from the island. Copyright © 2017 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights The Cinque Terre is the jewel of the Rick Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per - Steves world. Everyone loves it…so it’s We came back in the afternoon and mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide information that is accurate and reliable; however, pretty crowded these days. had free time, then a happy hour on Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that I have been working with my local the hotel roof terrace before dinner. I may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com translates as “five lands.” Adventures with Sarah continued from page 3

Sicily is a passion of mine. it is one of the most diverse and beautiful places in europe. Most people have no idea what is here to discover. there are traces of almost every major ancient western civilization. the landscape is diverse and picturesque. the food is fantastic. the people are friendly.

public phone in a bar, using gettone DOI: What is the next upcoming area? guiding and the wonderful locals (tokens). Sometimes the power would I have met here. [Check out be out for no reason. I had to boil SM: Sicily. Sicily is a passion of mine. Sarah’s Sicily blog at water to take a hot bath in my It is one of the most diverse and www.adventuresinsicily.com ] apartment’s tiny squat bathtub. beautiful places in Europe. Most people have no idea what is here to DOI: If you could have a last meal in Italy There was no discover. There are traces of where would it be and what would you 7

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b now feels like the landscape is diverse and SM: I would have a meal made by o t c Italy I remember, a picturesque. The food is Stacy’s husband Domenico in Venice. O little wild and fantastic. The people are He’s the chef at Osteria Bentigodi 4 untamed. I’m a friendly. Mainstream (39-041-8223714; www.bentigodi.com ) little untamed tourism in Canareggio. He’s a

m myself, so I relate hasn’t magician and artist. o c .

y better to that Italy caught on I never ask for anything

l Sarah in Agrigento, Sicily a t i of the past. I’m concerned for the yet. I suggest you go particular, I just let him f o

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w de Fiori market in Rome has changed produce he has on w

w severely, all the traditional vendors Most people have seen hand. I recall a have had to move out because of EU The Godfather but don’t particularly delicious hygiene regulations and now it is a realize that there is so Osteria Bentigodi, Venice wild strawberry risotto touristic market. much more to it than mafia a few years ago. stereotypes. Every day I ask my tour DOI: What’s the biggest mistake group if they expected Sicily to be this DOI: What’s your best advice for a travelers to Italy make? way and they cannot believe it, no strategy to plan your trip? matter how they have prepared. SM: It is a mistake to force Beautiful beaches, snowy volcanoes, SM: Start with priorities. The biggest Italy to behave the way you want it to lush valleys, temples, museums. mistake people make is to go to the or apply your standards and This island has it all. Did I mention the places they think they should rather expectations on it. The biggest example food? than where they will enjoy. Do you I see is an American speaking really have to go see the Vatican Museum? loud to an Italian waiter asking for ice. I have such a passion for it, I have No. It is a miserable experience Italians don’t typically use ice in soft started a new blog devoted only to normally and dangerously crowded on drinks, sorry. Italy is not going to Sicily coverage. There are so few good occasion. Most people go because they change for you. You have to let it resources on travel in Sicily. I hope to think they should, not because they charm you and accept it as it is. connect my readers with the want to. Most people would be information I have learned in tour happier to see the Borghese Gallery or September is no longer the ride a bike along the Giuditta Bernardi is my favorite. She Appian Way. Do what you runs a restaurant in Monterosso called enjoy, not what someone Piccolo Diavolo (39-0187-801528), which tells you that you must. is the best in the Cinque Terre in my opinion. I’ve known her since she And we have to dispel this was a kid, and she came to live with idea — I know that we my family last year for a couple of have promoted it — that months. I wrote about her in an September is a good time to Sarah and Rick Stacy Gibboni’s art article on my blog, “The go. That was true many years ago, Italian in the Basement” and but now it is high season and super people have come in to the crowded. Any month is better. Go restaurant and called her in April! Spring is lovely and not that! crowded at all. Seriously, don’t go in September or early October In Rome, one of my favorite unless you enjoy sardine-like characters is the famous crowds. Paola Fazi. She runs Trattoria der Pallaro (39-06 68801488), a 7

DOI: What’s your best packing tip for restaurant near Campo dei 1

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Paola and Sarah’s son, Nico o t SM: Italy is a patchwork of climates, for the better, at least I hope so. We eat what they are cooking. That c from the Dolomites to the sunny encourage travelers to learn, live local restaurant hasn’t changed in 50 years; O beaches. You can leave snow and lay and be sensitive. We have tried to it’s like a time warp of the way 5 on the beach in the same day! The best break the mold of typical tour Rome used to be. She’s been

strategy is to pack layers. I prefer companies. We work in an honest way. feeding me for more than 20 m o c .

ultralight layers of clothes in natural We, the tour guides, are all passionate years, and now she’s feeding y l a t fibers like linen and silk. Silk is a about our subjects and help our my kids too! i f o

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dresses, they are easy to layer with support local economies. Our travelers, about what you do? w w

leggings and a sweater. Italians love to in my view, are the gold standard of w layer clothes as well, more for the style, the travel industry. SM: You can read my blogs at so you’ll fit right in! www.adventureswithsarah.net and DOI: Tell me about your favorite locals in www.adventuresinsicily.com DOI: So what’s Rick Steves like and how Italy. has he changed travel? I’m creating my own off-season tours SM: My favorite local in Venice is my for Italy and you can get my latest SM: He has many facets. He’s the friend Stacy Gibboni schedule by emailing Martha Stewart of the travel industry (www.stacygibboni.com ). We met [email protected] I also offer — totally self-invented. He works while I was doing guidebook research. my own tours to Morocco and harder than anyone I know. He is a She was running a B&B out of her Thailand. very savvy businessman and a deeply Venetian palazzo and I came to update caring employer. I have so much the listing. We immediately clicked To find out about the Italy tours from respect and fondness for him, and and I blew off research for the rest of Rick Steves, visit have learned so much over the years the day to drink Prosecco with her! She www.ricksteves.com/tours from his example. He’s given me a is a contemporary artist and paints Sarah had so much to tell us that we beautiful life and connected me to gorgeous canvases. couldn’t fit it all here. Read about her six some of the people I love most. favorite towns in Italy on the In the Cinque Terre, my “sorella” Dream of Italy Blog. best month to visit Italy. 6

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Ettore Sammarco

history, she was determined to Options include everything Ravello. Their produce a new wine — one that would from a simple wine tasting celebrated white capture the scents and flavors of the to a full tour, tasting and wine Vigna Grotta landscape that had captured her heart. lunch or dinner. This is a Piana is produced family farm and what’s for from a century-old With the assistance of experts, the sure is that you’ll leave vineyard with a vineyard was planted on the terraced feeling like family, too. For spectacular setting property overlooking the sea. After more information, call (39) above Ravello — many years of hard work, the first 089 233428 or visit nearly 1,700 feet wine was produced in 2007. Ragis www.levignediraito.com above the sea on Rosso, a mix of Aglianico and Monte Brusara. A Piedirosso grapes, is a rich, strong red blend of Ginestrella, wine. Reflecting the area’s history, it RAVELLO Falanghina and takes its name from the supposed Ettore Sammarco Biancolella grapes, Gothic or Lombard founder of Raito, a only about 2,000 certain Ratgis, according to local Located in a curve on the bottles of this legend. tiny road that winds its special wine are way up the mountain to made yearly. 7

From the beginning, Patrizia was Ravello, the entrance to 1 0 2 driven to create a vineyard with the Ettore Sammarco winery The grapes harvested r e

highest respect for the land and local could easily be missed. by Ettore Sammarco b o t traditions. By 2011, Le Vigne di Raito Here, in an impressively grow on small c was certified organic by I.C.E.A, the small space, Ettore terraces around O Italian organization regulating organic Sammarco and his family Ravello and the 7 products. The same year they released have produced wine since neighboring village

their second wine, a refreshing rosé he founded the business in of Scala, a landscape m o c .

called Vitamenia, produced from 1962. Today Ettore is just as that sits right at the y l a t Piedirosso grapes with a touch of involved in every aspect of the wine cusp of sun-soaked lemon groves and i f o

Aglianico. production, along with his son Bartolo, northern-exposed mountainsides m a e

while his daughters Maria Rosaria and covered with chestnut trees that crave r d .

Ten years on from the release of their Antonella help with sales, making the winter cold. w w

first wine, Le Vigne di Raito is just Sammarco wines truly a family affair. w getting started. Vistors can experience Here the grapes take on different tones Patrizia’s warm hospitality while While you’ll see small terraces of vines from the landscape and climate, which getting a close look at a working along the steep slopes of Ravello, their Sammarco have combined to create vineyard and tasting their two flagship wines are made with traditional their Selva delle Monache Costa d’Amalfi wines. Amalfi Coast grape varietals cultivated DOC white, rosé and red wines along in a variety of locations around with the Terre Saracene Costa d’Amalfi DOC red and white wines crafted using a blend of Campanian favorites like Piedirosso with lesser known varietals like Pepella, which is cultivated primarily on the Amalfi Coast.

A stop by Ettore Sammarco while visiting Ravello offers the chance to sample their wines, along with a wide selection of liqueurs, from the classic Le Vigne di Raito limoncello to finoccchietto, a fennel- continued on page 8 heir wine to the United States. Amalfi Vineyards continued from page 7 Tenuta San Francesco

infused liqueur that is another local Tenuta San Francesco fact that they are still favorite. For more information, call (39) producing grapes that 089 872774 or visit If the name seems are exactly the same as www.ettoresammarco.it familiar, Tenuta San over a century ago. The Francesco was featured isolated mountain in season one of the PBS setting saved them TRAMONTI travel series, Dream of from the Phylloxera pest Longtime Dream of Italy readers might Italy. Launched in 2004, from North America remember when we delved into the Tenuta San Francesco that ravaged Europe’s Ancient Vines of Tramonti and visited set out to revitalize the vineyards in the 19th several winemakers in the village. winemaking tradition in century. Many years on, Tramonti is still one of Tramonti, and they have the most notable winemaking locations since been one of the To save their on the Amalfi Coast. That is due in leaders of the Costa vineyards, Phylloxera- large part to its protected setting in the d’Amalfi DOC wine resistant rootstock from Monti Lattari Mountains. production. Set in a America were grafted cantina from the 1700s, to vines across Italy The name Tramonti literally means they have brought and Europe. The work 7

1 “among the mountains,” which is an modern winemaking into a historic of vintners in Tramonti over the past 0 2 apt description for a place composed of setting. With just over 22 acres, Tenuta century have helped to preserve these r e

b many tiny villages nestled in and San Francesco is one of the largest very rare vines. It’s not often you can o t c around a valley rather than one central vineyards in Tramonti and produces taste wine that has change so little over O town. The vineyards as well are some of the area’s most respected a century! 8 situated along terraced slopes and wines as well. historic farmhouses, creating an idyllic Among these rare vines, Tintore,

m mountain setting worlds away from Here among the peaceful landscape Aglianico and Piedirosso grapes are o c .

y Positano’s pastel-hued homes and there are vines that have been growing grown to create the Tramonti Riserva 4 l a t i rocky beaches. for over 100 years. What sets these Spine. A unique wine to Tenuta San f o

m vines apart, besides their age, is the Francesco, the E’ Iss label was created a e

r exclusively from ancient Tintore grape d .

w vines and dedicated to the fathers of w

w the vineyard’s founders in honor of Swirl the Glass Wine Experiences their hard work protecting the ancient Don’t know your Aglianico from your Falanghina? etals to the unique challenges of growing grapes vineyards of Tramonti. The white grape Do you love discovering local wines while traveling? and producing wine on the rugged Amalfi Coast. varietals cultivated at Tenuta San Francesco are just as treasured, and Whether you’re new to wine or a connoisseur, Swirl You’ll start right in the vineyard before moving into include Falanghina, Biancolella, Ginestra the Glass takes travelers on in- the winery and getting an up-close depth tours of the coastline’s top look at local winemaking traditions. and Pepella. vineyards. This Amalfi Coast- The final—and tastiest step—is sit - based company was created by Tenuta San Francesco offers tours of the ting down to sample the wines, Positano local vineyard along with wine tastings and Cristian Fusco, accompanied by a delicious lunch head sommelier at lunch featuring local dishes that match Le Sirenuse of local specialties. Swirl the Glass hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant perfectly with their wines. For more offers full-day wine experiences on and his American-born wife Jenny information, call (39) 089 876748 or visit La Sponda, the Amalfi Coast as well as further afield in Konopasek. Swirl the Glass offers travelers the www.vinitenutasanfrancesco.com Campania’s wine producing areas, such as chance to experience locally produced wines with Avellino —Laura Thayer and the Mt. Vesuvius area. They also offer wine the insight of a professional sommelier. Laura Thayer is a freelance writer and photographer tastings right in or catered to private villa Positano living on the Amalfi Coast. She has contributed to Visit picturesque vineyards while learning about the rentals. For more information, call (39) 329 4219392 Fodor’s and DK Eyewitness guidebooks and shares entire winemaking process from local grape vari - or visit www.swirltheglass.com about life on the Amalfi Coast on her blog, Ciao Amalfi. For more, visit www.ciaoamalfi.com The average Italian drinks 45 bottles of wine per year.