Z MAY 10, 2019

ON TRACK OR OFF THE RAILS? THE ‘MAGAZINE’ INSPECTS THE NEW DEVELOPMENTS IN ISRAEL’S TRAIN SERVICE CONTENTS May 10, 2019

Cover Sections

8 The Jerusalem fast train vs. the 4 Letters powerful media 7 Refections • By GOL KALEV 24 Arab Press 12 Israel Railways: Across-the-board failures 26 Trending • By URI BOLLAG and 28 Wine Talk CASSANDRA GOMES-HOCHBERG 30 Food 14 Jerusalem by rail 32 Travel 30 • By PEGGY CIDOR 34 Observations 6 The astrology of independence 37 Psychology • By ERICA SCHACHNE 38 Books 16 Chats with writing legend Joyce Carol-Oates 42 Judaism • By MOSHE DANN 44 Games 18 The gig economy 46 Readers’ Photos • By ILANA STUTLAND 47 Arrivals 20 Eating disorders: A growing Middle Eastern issue • By MAYA MARGIT 21 Menstruation: A shift in Egyptian attitudes • By TARA KAVALER COVER PHOTO: Reuters Photos (from top): Dror Katz; Meital Sharabi 32

SAY WHAT? PHOTO OF THE WEEK | MARC ISRAEL SELLEM BY LIAT COLLINS Ayom v’nora איום ונורא Meaning: Dreadful Literally: Terrible and awful Example: The extremes in the weather are horrible. One day hot and the next day cold. Ayom v’nora.

Z Editor: ERICA SCHACHNE Literary Editor: AMY SPIRO Graphic Designer: HANA BEN-ANO EMAIL: [email protected] www.jpost.com >> magazine

2 MAY 10, 2019 COVER

THE JERUSALEM FAST-TRAIN VS. THE POWERFUL MEDIA During the six-month test period, early-adopter passengers on the Jerusalem-Tel Aviv train line got an insider look at the phenomenon of mind-setting through negative news

ADMIRING THE view in September: ‘The ride is not just reliable and luxurious, it is also quick.’ (Gol Kalev)

8 MAY 10, 2019 After 3,000 years as a landlocked city, during most of which it was surrounded by walls, Jerusalem now has a ‘beach’

THE RAILWAY station in • GOL KALEV ous, it is also quick. The 47-minute ride of previously canceled Jerusalem trains. Jerusalem, 1914. from the capital to the White City (soon Needless to say, there is no word on the (Photos: Wikimedia ailways and the power of media to be shortened to 28 minutes) makes the dozens of bus lines that get canceled every Commons) – two new things that shaped train a quicker, safer and more convenient day. (Imagine a breaking-news headline 19th-century Europe – were alternative than taking a car or bus – the like this: “The 10 a.m. 480 bus got canceled; both of great interest to Theodor previous modes of transportation that passengers boarded the 10:10 a.m. bus Herzl, the founder of Zionism. connected Jerusalem, which now, like the instead.”) RSome of Herzl’s Zionist thinking oc- horse, seem increasingly outdated. Of course, there is legitimate criticism curred while riding on trains, and as a pow- During the experimental phase, there about Israel Railways, its management and erful journalist for one of Europe’s leading is a simple transfer at Ben-Gurion Airport unions, as well as about its prioritizing this newspapers, Herzl fully understood how from the electric train that descends from line over others, but the intense negativi- newspapers could shape public perception Jerusalem to a regular train that leaves ty that is directed specifcally at the high- of political developments and events (such from the same platform. One can either speed Jerusalem line entrenched a mindset as the Dreyfus Affair). continue working on the train (there are among Israelis that is disconnected from The new train line between Jerusalem 10 minutes until the electric train revers- reality. and Tel Aviv seems to be such a case of es course back to Jerusalem), sit in the Herzl understood that mindsets are dif- media shaping public perception. The line outskirts of the platform on the spacious fcult to change. Jews in his time viewed that Herzl envisioned over 100 years ago benches, use the bathrooms or listen to Judaism through a particular prism that was inaugurated in September on an exper- sounds of a piano occasionally trickling included a yearning to return to their imental basis and for free, running every 30 down from the station upstairs, while ob- homeland, but only in a theoretical, de- minutes. serving new arrivals to Israel as they de- featist, “some day” dreamlike way. Even Having ridden the train about 100 times, scend the escalator from the airport into before he launched Zionism, Herzl un- only once was a train canceled. Offcial the platform area. derstood that the Jews would not listen Israeli railroad statistics show a similar pat- Only 47 minutes after departing to him, given their sagging spirits and en- tern, with fewer than 1% of trains being Jerusalem, one arrives in Tel Aviv. slavement to such a mindset. canceled. In nearly all other cases, the To make his case, Herzl resorted to trains! trains left and arrived precisely on time. BUT THEN a bizarre phenomenon occurs: He argued that when railroads were frst This makes the Jerusalem line one of the telling people that you took the train is constructed, some people “were of the most reliable modes of travel, even during met with a strong reaction. opinion that it was foolish to build certain its experimental phase! “Why are you risking your life? Every lines because there were not even suffcient It is not just reliable, but also relatively other train gets stuck in the tunnel.” “It passengers to fll the mail coaches.” luxurious. The double-decker cars are takes an hour just to get through the Railroads were an astonishing leap in impeccably clean, well-maintained and station.” “You need to take a bus from the human progress that occurred during usually quiet. Given the generally sparse airport.” These are just some of the com- Herzl’s century, replacing animals as the use by the general public, each passenger ments one hears. Some even refuse to ac- primary mode of transportation, radically gets his own suite, which includes a table, cept that it took only 47 minutes, opting to shortening distances and facilitating ex- dual electricity plug and foor-to-ceiling believe what they think they heard on the pansion to new frontiers. And yet, far too windows through which one can view the news rather than an eyewitness account. many people were stuck in old mindsets astonishing miracle that Herzl dreamed. Regular passengers on the train report that were shaped by journalists and others: This frst-class-like travel experience makes similar reactions upon arriving in Tel Aviv: if there are not many who people travel the ride productive and inspiring for “The Jerusalem line is a national disaster, from Vienna to Paris, why invest a massive business travelers, writers and casual trav- and please don’t let facts get in the way.” amount of money to build railroads? elers alike. Just as Herzl came up with great Not only is there substantial negative “They did not realize the truth – which ideas while on train rides through Europe, press about the Jerusalem-Tel Aviv line, now seems obvious to us,” said Herzl. so do some of today’s Zionist innovators but when a train does get canceled, it turns “Travelers do not produce railways, but come up with their great ideas while on into national news! Israeli major news sites conversely, railways produce travelers.” train rides through the Jewish state that consistently report service interruptions As Herzl intuited, the reality of a fast, Herzl seeded. as news items and when doing so, they convenient and reliable railway between The ride is not just reliable and luxuri- usually include in the article the history Jerusalem and Tel Aviv would likely alter

www.jpost.com 9 COVER

the dynamics of the two cities. He under- stood that just as obsessive naysayers spoke ill of the trains, they would also speak ill of Zionism. He described them as “nothing more than men sunk into the groove of daily routine, unable to emerge from a nar- row circle of antiquated ideas.” But at the same time, he understood the power of media and other opinion-leaders. “Their adverse opinion carries great weight and can do considerable harm to a new project.”

THE LAUNCH of the Jerusalem train pro- vides a case study for such “great weight.” It might also be indicative of a broad- er reality, that those who read Israeli newspapers and consume Israeli media often have a more inferior understanding of Israel than those on the outside. That is because the negative knowledge acquired from domestic media at times surmounts the positive information it provides. This is neither new nor unique. The foundation of Zionism was laid from the outside and by an outsider, Herzl, who had very little to do with the Jewish community. Similarly, some of the con- temporary innovative Zionist thinking is done on the outside. Indeed, Diaspora Jews and non-Jewish friends of Zion can con- tribute tremendously to the development of the Zionist story – as they can see things that newspaper-reading Israelis, sunk into the groove of daily reporting, cannot. When infuenced by the media, it is indeed sometimes diffcult to emerge from a nar- the ultimate and infnite ideal that unites spective to the “I want it, I got it” mantra. ‘IT MIGHT take a neophyte 20 row circle of antiquated ideas. Israeli Jews, and through which non-Jews The train, therefore, can also turn into a minutes to go through security To be clear, criticism is crucially relate to the Jewish state. This was evident vehicle to spread the Jerusalem optimism and make it down 80 meters important in a democracy, even at the risk in the recent elections; nearly all Israeli to vibrant Tel Aviv. to the underground platform. of being excessive. Similarly, a culture of Jews and an increasing number of Israeli Yet for the regular, it only takes complaining, skepticism and dissent could Arabs voted for Zionist parties (Meretz, a IT IS exactly this Tel Aviv vibrancy, about fve minutes.’ be constructive. Yet, there is a point where Zionist party, got into the Knesset thanks including the availability of shared-bicycle (Marc Israel Sellem) opposition turns to slander: about the to the Arab vote). Still, while there are and scooter options, that for six months trains, the price of Milky pudding, life in those in Israel who take pride in the half- now has turned it into something of a Israel, the morality of our soldiers. full glass, there are those who obsess on neighborhood of Jerusalem and visa-ver- With Israel’s military might, thriving the half-empty aspect. sa. Those Tel Aviv inner-city modes of economy, strengthening alliances with its The two points of the train symbolize di- transportation make the commute from Arab neighbors and with world’s nations verging attitudes toward optimism. On the any of the four Tel Aviv train stations to the dependent on Israeli technology, the ex- Tel Aviv end, there is a tendency by many beach, restaurant, gallery or bar a matter of istential threat to Israel is shifting to a to complain, while on the Jerusalem end, mere minutes, and contribute to the pre- political one: attempts to negate Israel’s to appreciate. A few short blocks from the dictable certainty of arrival time, since, raison d’etre as the nation-state of the Jerusalem train station, a sign proclaims: like the train, they are traffc-neutral. Jewish people and to demoralize Israeli “This land is very, very good,” and a short After 3,000 years as a landlocked city, society. walk away, in the Mahaneh Yehuda shuk, during most of which it was surrounded by Israel remains a resolute society, with one frequently notices customers at bars walls, Jerusalem now has a beach! One can high conviction and an unmatched sense pause briefy before sipping their wine to sip coffee in the Jerusalem shuk, indulge in of mutual responsibility. The Zionist recite a blessing and say thanks. In doing an urge to hit the beach, and get there in ideology that Herzl established remains so, they are injecting some valuable per- just over an hour. Jaffa, which used to be

10 MAY 10, 2019 Accessibility remains an issue

srael takes pride in its advances in accessi- the Israeli railroad network, are there to assist. Ibility. And while the new Jerusalem train Indeed, for pre-coordinated rides, train staff station and the trains themselves are fully ac- wait at the trains’ doors with equipment to cessible, a person in a wheelchair must take facilitate moving from the trains to platforms four separate elevators to board a train. The and vice-versa for those who need assistance. elevators are not right next to each other, The Jerusalem train station is located right and there is just one small elevator that goes near the central bus station light rail stop, from the main elevators to the platform. which helps. But in Tel Aviv, the Light Rail Passengers in wheelchairs share this small is still under construction. All in all, accessi- elevator with people carrying suitcases and bility remains an issue, and lack of suffcient strollers, and anyone else who prefers riding infrastructure makes the ride longer and more an elevator to climbing stairs. challenging for the elderly and for passengers Staff in the station, as well as throughout with disabilities. – G.K.

Today is Israel’s actual Independence Day

esterday was just the frst of four cups of menced at sundown, as Shabbat entered. Yindependence. Indeed, this warrants a third toast on Shabbat, Israelis and friends of Israel around the the 6th of Iyar, Israel’s actual Independence world raised a toast yesterday to celebrate the Day. (At midnight for those wishing to be exact). Jewish state’s 71st birthday. Yet, the precise Hence, this year, we can celebrate three Independence Day is today, Friday the 5th days of Israeli Independence: Thursday – of Iyar. It was moved earlier this year due to when observed; Friday – the precise date, and Shabbat. (When the 5th of Iyar is on Friday, Saturday – the actual Independence Day. Independence Day is celebrated on the 4th of But don’t fold your fags on Saturday night Iyar). and put away your Israeli wine bottles just yet. Moreover, the 5th of Iyar in 1948 was also There is also a fourth cup. a Friday. It was today at 4 p.m. that David Some 15 years ago, the State of Israel add- Ben-Gurion declared independence, 71 years ed a new national holiday to its calendar: ago. This warrants a second toast this Friday, Herzl Day, marking the birthday of Theodor as if to join the celebrations on that Friday af- Herzl on the 10th of Iyar, which is this com- ternoon back then on Rothschild Boulevard ing Wednesday. Symbolically, this year it in Tel Aviv and throughout the country. would coincide with the 15th of May, the However, the British Mandate was still English calendar anniversary of Israel’s actual in effect at the time of the Declaration of Independence! Independence. It was set to expire only about On Israel’s 71st birthday and Herzl’s 159th eight hours later, at midnight. birthday, there is a lot to celebrate. There is, of To avoid violating Shabbat, the declaration course, much to improve and lots to debate, was made in advance, on Friday afternoon. but for four cups, Israelis can unite to admire This is why the 5th of Iyar became Israel’s the fulfllment of a dream, appreciate the as- (TOP) SHADES of Herzl: Railway ticket offces, Vienna, 1923. Independence Day. Yet, actual independence tonishing miracle, express gratitude and say occurred only on the sth of Iyar, which com- l’haim – to life! – G.K. CHUGGING ALONG at high speed: ‘Having ridden the train about 100 times, only once was it canceled.’ (Reuters) known as “the port of Jerusalem,” can now the extent of this. There is absolutely no Jerusalem train early adopters will inevita- more than ever be considered part of the connection between how it is reported and bly soon experience fuller and noisier train cafe, bar and restaurant scene of Jerusalem. how it runs.” rides, as the cloud of negative news dissi- Such new realities are not readily visi- Commuting daily from Jerusalem to pates (hopefully Israel Railways will des- ble to most news-consuming Israelis, but Ramat Gan, that man said the train im- ignate an ample number of “quiet cars,” for the small but growing clique of ear- proved his life tremendously, and he given the nature of the audience and the ly-adopter passengers, this is now reality. knows who he should be grateful to. “It is destination). This is also due to those regulars’ familiar- thanks to this fake news that we still get to Yet those early adopters will always be ity with the train station, akin to business ride the train for free!” he says, referring to left with the sense of being part of the six- travelers at airports. It might take a neo- the extension of the initial three-month month experimental period when they phyte 20 minutes to go through the sta- free period due to perception of repeated witnessed frsthand another aspect of Her- tion’s security and make it down 80 meters failures. That man estimated that he has zl’s dream come true, and in doing so, were to the underground platform. Yet for the ex- saved well over NIS 1,000 in waived fees. vested with the task of preserving and trans- perienced passenger, it takes only about fve Yet, a few weeks ago, the party came forming the dream. minutes, being familiar with the elevators, to an end: The railroad company begun “All the deeds of men are only dreams at having his card pre-loaded, understanding charging. Jerusalem still has a beach, but frst,” Herzl wrote, “and in the end, their which staircase to take to the platform and now it will now be not just an hour but also deeds dissolve into dreams.” even which car is most likely to be quiet. NIS 11 away. An ultra-Orthodox man who is one of When the supersonic Concorde was The writer analyzes trends in Zionism, those regulars shared that the last few grounded in 2003, there were business Europe and global affairs, focusing on long- months led him to a stark revelation: “I travelers who claimed that the world will term shifts and applying historical perspec- always suspected news is fake, but not until always be divided between those who took tives. His articles are featured on I began experiencing the train did I realize the Concorde and those who did not. The Europeandjerusalem.com