Ethiopia Bird Photography Tour: Highland Endemics, Rift Valley Lakes & Bird- rich Savannas 1st to 14th December 2018 (14 days) Simien Mountains & Lalibela Extension 14th to 20th December 2018 (7 days)
Bearded Vulture (Lammergeier) by Marius Coetzee Rockjumper & Oryx - Ethiopia Bird Photography Tour and Extension Itinerary 2
Simply put, Ethiopia is hands-down one of Africa’s most productive and rewarding bird photography destinations! The country’s awe-inspiring scenery coupled with an array of spectacular and wonderfully photogenic and approachable birds and mammals and a kaleidoscope of fascinating and striking cultures making this a photographer’s dream!
This amazing country supports a truly staggering volume of birds, probably more so than any other country in Africa and due to the population’s beliefs and customs of not hunting or persecuting birds and mammals, we will undoubtedly be able to get extremely close to many species that will afford us unrivalled photographic opportunities.
During this exciting bird photographic adventure, we will attempt to obtain superb photographs of as many of Ethiopia’s magnificent and highly acclaimed endemic birds and other superb and eye- catching species as possible and these include Wattled Ibis, Rouget’s Rail, Spot-breasted Lapwing, Abyssinian Owl, the mightily impressive Thick-billed Raven, Yellow-fronted Parrot and Abyssinian Woodpecker, as well as Wattled and Black Crowned Cranes, Arabian Bustard, Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse, Abyssinian Ground Hornbill and a plethora of confiding water-birds that frequent the various Rift Valley Lakes.
We will also spend some time enjoying and photographing the country’s impressive mammals such as Geladas and the critically endangered Ethiopian Wolf, while cultural photographic opportunities are abundant throughout!
THE TOUR AT A GLANCE…
THE ETHIOPIA BIRD PHOTOGRAPHY ITINERARY
Day 1 Arrival in Addis Ababa
Addis Ababa to Lake Langano via Lakes Chelekleka, Hora, Bishoftu, Koka & Day 2 Ziway
Day 3 Lake Langano area
Day 4 Lake Langano to Goba
Goba to Bale Mountain Lodge, via Sanetti Plateau, Bale Mountain National Day 5 Park Bale Mountain Lodge to Goba, via Sanetti Plateau, Bale Mountain National Day 6 Park
Day 7 Goba to Awassa
Day 8 Lake Awassa area
Day 9 Lake Awassa to Ziway via Lakes Abijatta and Shalla
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Day 10 Lake Ziway to Awash
Day 11 Awash to Bilen area (northern Awash National Park) to southern Awash NP
Day 12 Awash National Park (southern section)
Day 13 Awash National Park to Addis Ababa
Addis Ababa and depart or fly to Gondar if continuing on the Simien Day 14 Mountains and Lalibela Extension
THE SIMIEN MOUNTAINS AND LALIBELA EXTENSION
Day 1 Addis Ababa fly to Gondar and drive to Simien Mountains National Park
Days 2 & 3 Simien Mountains National Park
Day 4 Simien Mountains to Gondar
Day 5 Gondar fly to Lalibela; visit Rock-hewn churches
Day 6 Lalibela area (Ashetun Mariam and surrounds)
Day 7 Lalibela fly to Addis Ababa and depart
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TOUR MAP…
THE TOUR IN DETAIL…
Day 1: Arrival in Addis Ababa. Today is essentially an arrival day. For those who arrive during daylight hours, it is possible to arrange a city tour. Addis Ababa is well-known as one of Africa’s trading and cultural hubs and the sights and sounds of the city are certainly unique and enthralling. Today one will also have the opportunity to venture into the city where one can appreciate the unique “flavour” of Addis by visiting a local market or even the very interesting and well-presented National Museum. An Addis market really is an exhilarating, invigorating and intoxicating experience that should not be missed. The aroma of roasted coffee beans over small coal fires, the burning of frankincense and the wafting smells of freshly baked injera all add to the bright colours, banter and bustle and make for a very interesting and captivating experience and introduction to Ethiopia. To boot, the photographic opportunities of the Ethiopian people and other cultural aspects are excellent and extremely worthwhile.
This evening we will meet for a welcome introductory dinner to at our hotel’s restaurant where we can chat about the exciting days to come.
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Wattled Ibis by Adam Riley Day 2: Addis Ababa to Lake Langano. Our Ethiopian bird photography adventure commences with an early departure from Addis Ababa, as we head south into the Great Rift Valley. Our first scheduled stop will be at the shallow, extensive and prolific Lake Chelekleka, an excellent site for migrant and resident water-associated birds. Massive flocks of Northern Pintail, Northern Shoveler, Garganey, Eurasian Teal and Tufted Duck are usually present, as well as large numbers of migrant waders that include Black-tailed Godwit and Temminck’s Stint. Common Cranes often roost in staggering numbers on the far side of the water but are sometimes seen closer and pose well in the early morning light for good photographic opportunities, and we may see them flying off to forage in huge, noisy flocks. If we are fortunate we may also find and manage to obtain good shots of the stately Black Crowned Crane here, while the general birding and photographic opportunities around the lake edge is always superb!
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African Fish Eagles by Marius Coetzee Next up will be the deep Lake Hora that is surrounded by extremely bird-rich acacia woodland. The wooded habitats around the lake teem with birds and we may have difficulty knowing which direction to point our lenses due to the seemingly endless flow of new, exciting and richly-coloured birds! Blue-breasted Bee-eaters usually pose for amazing photo ops, while Black-billed Barbet, Common Redstart, Eurasian Blackcap, Red-throated Wryneck, Dark-capped Yellow Warbler, Rüppell’s Robin-Chat, Western Black-headed Batis, the aptly-named Beautiful Sunbird and the range-restricted Rüppell’s Weaver are also usually present and perform well. A diverse variety of water-birds, especially deep-water diving ducks are also likely to be seen and photographed here.
It is likely to be around mid-morning now and our late breakfast stop at the quaint and perfectly- situated restaurant over-looking the steep-sided Lake Bishoftu will be our next stop of the morning. The bird photography around here can be quite good too with Maccoa and Ferruginous Ducks, Southern Pochard, Singing Cisticola, gorgeous Tacazze Sunbird, Mocking Cliff Chat, Abyssinian Wheatear, Little Rock Thrush and flocks of Black-winged Lovebird often being present and quite tame.
After a delicious breakfast we will continue our journey south through the Great Rift Valley towards our destination at the edge of Lake Langano. Along the way we will pay a quick visit at Koka Dam that is often a great place to see and photograph Black Crowned Cranes.
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In the early afternoon we will arrive at Lake Ziway in time for lunch and we will spend a lengthy amount of time around the lake edge as this will likely be the best bird photography of the entire day and perhaps even the entire trip! Lake Ziway is classified as an Important Bird Area and hosts an incredible number of water-birds that congregate around the shallow edges of the lake. A large area, all of which will be teeming with birds is easily accessible on foot by way of a well- maintained, all-weather, dry gravel track that forms a kind of pier that extends through the shallows and into the lake. The birds here, many of which are large, impressive and immensely photogenic are all extremely tame and confiding and we are likely to spend most of the afternoon here savouring the amazing bird spectacle and unrivalled photographic opportunities.
Great White Pelicans by Marius Coetzee
Species that are likely to entertain us this afternoon include Pink-backed Pelican, African Darter, the magnificent Goliath Heron, unique and bizarre Hamerkop, stately Yellow-billed and Saddle- billed Storks, Spur-winged and Egyptian Geese, Knob-billed Duck, the elegant African Pygmy Goose, the common but magnificent African Fish Eagle, African Jacana, Spur-winged Lapwing, Gull-billed Tern, Pied and Malachite Kingfishers, Common Snipe and Senegal Thick-knee, and with a bit of luck, the rare Lesser Jacana.
We should also be able to obtain excellent, close looks and photo ops of Great White Pelican and the huge Marabou Stork, dazzling Northern Carmine Bee-eaters, migratory White and Western Yellow Wagtails (including some of the striking black, bright-yellow and green feldeggi race), White-faced Whistling Ducks, the less colourful Ethiopian Cisticola, migratory Sedge Warbler, a host of waders and in the late afternoon, Western Marsh Harrier that is often seen quartering low over the wetland edge in beautiful, late afternoon golden light.
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In the late afternoon we will depart the prolific Lake Ziway and continue the drive to our very comfortable lodge at the edge of the equally productive, bird-rich and picturesque Lake Langano, our wonderful base for the next two nights. Here we will be serenaded by grunting Hippopotamus from the nearby lake while admiring the 4,000m (13,200ft) high Arsi Mountains in the background. A fitting way to end what is often regarded as the most amazing and bird-rich first day to any birding and natural history trip on Earth!
Blue-breasted Bee-eater by Markus Lilje
This promises to be an action-packed and bird-filled day with an incredible number of fabulous photographic opportunities so make sure that the batteries are well-charged and the cards are empty and ready to be filled up.
Day 3: Lake Langano area. The varied habitats around Lake Langano are some of the most bird- rich in all of Africa and these consist of moist, ground-water, fig-dominated forest, arid acacia savannah, mudflats, rocky hillsides and scrub. With so many different habitats all easily accessible in a tiny area, the birding and photographic opportunities today are superb.
The beautiful fig forest and surrounding woodland absolutely teems with birds and the early morning, golden light that touches the forest edge provides amazing photographic opportunities of many fantastic and highly photogenic species such as the endemic Yellow-fronted Parrot, impressive Silvery-cheeked and Hemprich’s Hornbills, the gorgeous Narina Trogon, Scaly-throated and Lesser Honeyguides, the strange Green Malkoha, gaudy Double-toothed Barbet, Brown-
Rockjumper & Oryx - Ethiopia Bird Photography Tour and Extension Itinerary 9 throated Wattle-eye, Thick-billed Weaver, Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike, Bruce’s Green Pigeon, Northern Carmine Bee-eater, Ethiopian Oriole, Ethiopian Boubou, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, the handsome White-cheeked Turaco and Red-headed Weaver.
Blue-winged Goose by Marius Coetzee
At a different side of the lake we hope to find and obtain excellent shots of the endemic Abyssinian Wheatear, as well as Little Rock Thrush, inquisitive Von der Deckon’s Hornbill, Rüppell’s Weaver, dazzling Superb and Rüppell’s Starlings, Black-winged Lovebird and the brilliant little African Pygmy Kingfisher, with chances of the attractive Masked and Woodchat Shrikes. Local guides in the area often know the whereabouts of several species of roosting nocturnal birds and these could include Greyish Eagle-Owl, Northern White-faced Owl and Slender-tailed Nightjar.
Day 4: Lake Langano to Goba. Leaving the Rift Valley behind for a few days, we wind our way upwards towards the world-famous Bale Mountains National Park. Rugged hillsides en route may hold a few surprises for us, and some dedicated searching could produce the mackinderi race of Cape Eagle-Owl that might show well for photo ops once found, while wetter areas hold Rouget’s Rail, the boldly-patterned Groundscraper Thrush, Blue-winged Goose and the smart Spot-breasted Lapwing.
We can expect to arrive at our hotel in Goba in the late afternoon after a fairly long drive that will no doubt be punctuated by many fascinating and photogenic birds with many of them being highly sought-after Ethiopian endemics.
Day 5: Goba to Bale Mountain Lodge, via Bale Mountain National Park. This will be a day of great contrasts, amazing scenery and fabulous bird and mammal photography. We will depart early and ascend the Bale Mountain massif onto the Sanetti Plateau, which lies between 3,800m and 4,377m (12,540 and 14,444ft) above sea level.
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Abyssinian Owl by Rich Lindie
Upon reaching this unique plateau we will be driving on Africa’s highest road, passing close to the summit of Ethiopia’s second highest mountain. This habitat is termed “Afro-alpine moorland” and is characterised by Jibrra, or Giant Lobelias, which tower like monolithic giants over the rich tussock grasslands and extensive cushions of yellow Everlasting flowers. This site is an Important Bird Area of immense significance, supporting seven globally threatened species and nearly all of Ethiopia’s Highland biome species. The plateau holds the only Afrotropical breeding populations of Ruddy Shelduck, Golden Eagle and Red-billed Chough. We may also encounter and hopefully obtain excellent photographs of Black Stork, the highly photogenic and endemic Wattled Ibis, Chestnut-naped and Moorland Francolins, Rouget’s Rail (particularly common and confiding here), endemic Blue-winged Goose, Spot-breasted Lapwing, Wattled Crane, Thekla Lark, the dumpy Moorland Chat and vast flocks of endemic Ethiopian Siskins.
These grasslands are estimated to support an incredible biomass of 4,000kg (8,800lb) of rodents per hectare. This obviously attracts an array of raptors and we may be able to photograph Steppe and Golden Eagles, Augur Buzzard and elegant Pallid Harrier courting over this green sea. They share this abundant food source with the plateau’s most celebrated resident, the Ethiopian or Simien Wolf, crowned with the unenviable title of “the world’s rarest canid”. Watching and photographing these vibrantly coloured mammals, most closely related to the European Timber Wolf, exhibiting their hunting prowess whilst pouncing on Giant Mole-rats (another endemic to the Sanetti Plateau) is surely among Africa’s greatest wildlife experiences. We should enjoy excellent photographic opportunities in this unique montane habitat.
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Finally, we will reach the escarpment of this elevated plateau and stare down through the clouds at the vast Harenna Forest below. This remarkable forest is the largest intact forest block in Ethiopia and the largest protected Afro-alpine forest on the continent. It still supports populations of Lion, Leopard, Giant Forest Hog, the endemic Bale Monkey and the only surviving forest-dwelling African Wild Dogs. Although unlikely that we will see either of these species (although we have encountered all of these rare and elusive mammals on previous trips), the descent through this breathtakingly beautiful, moss-draped forest is inspirational. Here we will search for and hopefully manage to photograph the resplendent African Emerald Cuckoo, the rare and endemic Abyssinian Woodpecker, brilliant Narina Trogon, Ethiopian Oriole, Slender-billed Starling, Abyssinian Ground Thrush, White- cheeked Turaco, the vocal Abyssinian Catbird, African Citril and Yellow-crowned Canary.
Other eye-catching species that we may encounter and be able to Senetti Plateau Scenery & Giant Lobelia by Marius Coetzee photograph if the opportunity arises include the beautiful but shy Abyssinian Crimsonwing, the uncommon Mountain Buzzard, African Olive Pigeon, Lemon and Tambourine Doves, African Goshawk, Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk, Cinnamon Bracken Warbler, African Hill Babbler, Montane White-eye and Yellow-bellied Waxbill.
Our wonderful lodge for the night is perfectly situated at the edge of a natural clearing in a large glade of alpine Juniper forest, surrounded by the Bale Mountains on one side and the vast Harenna Forest on the other.
Day 6: Bale Mountain Lodge to Goba, via Sanetti Plateau, Bale Mountain National Park. After some early morning bird photography around our superb lodge we will begin the drive back over the Sanetti Plateau and the Bale Mountains in search of any desirable species that we may not yet have managed to photograph or of which we require better images.
After another long but extremely productive day in the field we can expect to arrive at our now- familiar hotel in Goba for an overnight stay.
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Rouget’s Rail by Marius Coetzee
Day 7: Goba to Lake Awassa. Following breakfast, we will depart Goba and make our way back across the grassland, Wheat, Barley and teff-covered Ethiopian Highlands back into the Great Rift Valley and onto our next destination, the once again extremely bird-rich Lake Awassa.
Along the way we will have time to stop in at the Bale National Park headquarters in Dinsho where we can take a short stroll along the trails at the forest edge in search of any of the key species that we may have missed in the Harenna Forest or of which we wish to obtain good photographs. These could include the handsome Chestnut-naped Francolin, secretive Abyssinian Ground Thrush, vocal Abyssinian Catbird and striking White-backed Black Tit. With some luck, our local guide/ranger may know the whereabouts of two species of roosting owls: the widespread African Wood Owl and the very rare, near-endemic and very attractive Abyssinian Owl, a species that has only very recently been seen with any regularity. We also hope to see and photograph a variety of mammals here, most notably the localised, endemic and very handsome Mountain Nyala (now entirely restricted to the Bale Mountain massif), as well as Menelik’s Bushbuck, Grey Duiker, Bohor Reedbuck and Warthog (unusual at this high altitude).
In the late afternoon we will reach our comfortable hotel, on the shores of Lake Awassa and our base for the next two nights.
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Day 8: Lake Awassa area. Today will be one of the most exhilarating, productive, enjoyable and photogenic days of the entire trip! The shores of Lake Awassa and surrounding woodlands harbour
Ethiopian Wolf by Markus Lilje immense numbers of resident and migrant birds and like earlier in the trip, the number of large, vibrant and charismatic species on show here are almost unrivalled. Almost every species we see will be extremely confiding and the photographic opportunities during our morning and afternoon sessions will be superb!
A pre-breakfast stroll around the hotel grounds will produce a number of cracking and easily- photographed species such as Double-toothed Barbet, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, the attractive Red- shouldered Cuckooshrike, Eastern Grey Woodpecker, Woodland Kingfisher, Black-billed Wood Hoopoe, Black Kite and Marabou Stork and we might also find and be able to photograph some of the area’s less obvious but rather unique and attractive species like the African Spotted Creeper, Little Weaver, Western Black-headed Batis, Brown-throated Wattle-eye, Mourning Collared Dove, Grey-backed Fiscal, Northern Puffback and Bronze Mannikin.
Reedbeds in the vicinity support the immaculate Greater Painted-snipe, as well as Black Crake, African Swamphen, Blue-headed Coucal, Red-faced Cisticola and Common Waxbill.
The hotel grounds should also yield family groups of Grivet Monkey, though it is the regal Guereza Colobus that will certainly steal our attention as they leap through the trees, their shaggy pelts and long tails trailing behind. They often pose for long periods in the open on low branches offering excellent photographic opportunities.
In the afternoon we will visit the remarkable Lake Awassa fish market. This large lake is particularly rich in fish and the fishermen gut their catch and discard the waste around the market. This in turn attracts large numbers of grotesque Marabou Storks and many other great birds –
Rockjumper & Oryx - Ethiopia Bird Photography Tour and Extension Itinerary 14 photographic opportunities are unrivalled! We should also be able to obtain brilliant photos of Great White Pelican, White-breasted and Reed Cormorants, Black-headed and Grey-hooded Gulls, Hamerkop, African Sacred Ibis and the massively-equipped Thick-billed Raven squabbling over the fish remains.
In the surrounding woodland we are likely to encounter the endemic Banded Barbet, as well as many of the species seen and photographed this morning.
Banded Barbet by Adam Riley
Day 9: Lake Awassa to Ziway via Lakes Abijatta and Shalla. This morning we depart Lake Awassa after some final early morning photography around our hotel grounds or perhaps one final visit to the immensely productive Awassa Fish Market with its photogenic visitors before continuing the journey back north towards the town of Ziway for an overnight stay.
Along the way we will visit the nearby Lake Abijatta and Shalla National Park where the shallow, saline lake of Abijatta usually supports hordes of impressive and highly photogenic Lesser and Greater Flamingos that feed up on the abundant food source available here during Ethiopia’s winter months. Once we have absorbed and thoroughly enjoyed the Flamingo spectacle we will make our way to the neighbouring Lake Shalla, an extremely deep, volcanic crater lake that is home to several bubbling sulphuric hot springs and usually holds some interesting species.
In the arid woodland, savannah and grasslands that surround these two lakes we may encounter and with patience, obtain good shots of Dark Chanting Goshawk, Eastern Imperial and Long-crested Eagles, Grey Kestrel, the honking Bearded Woodpecker, brilliant Little Bee-eater, family groups of
Rockjumper & Oryx - Ethiopia Bird Photography Tour and Extension Itinerary 15 the wonderful Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Black-billed Barbet, White-rumped Babbler, African Thrush, Buff-bellied Warbler, Red-faced Crombec, Beautiful Sunbird, the unique Red-billed Oxpecker, beautiful Red-billed Firefinch, spritely White-winged Black Tit and the scarce Clapperton’s Francolin among many other photogenic subjects that we would probably have already encountered and photographed by now.
Noteworthy mammals we may find and photograph here include Grant’s Gazelle and Oribi. In the late afternoon we will check into our hotel near Lake Ziway for an overnight stay.
Day 10: Ziway to Awash. This morning we’ll have one last chance to enjoy and photograph the wealth of water-associated birds that dominate the edge of Lake Ziway before beginning the journey north and then east towards the fabulous Awash National Park, our destination for the next three nights.
After leaving Ziway, we drop down the immense western wall of the Great Rift Valley and travel across the wild Afar tribal territories. We may very well encounter a large troop of the unique Hamadryas Baboon along the way and if so, we’ll take some time out to photograph these impressive mammals.
If we have time we might make a short stop in at Lake Beseka in the late Afternoon and depending on water levels we may find a number Rufous-throated Wryneck by Markus Lilje of shorebirds and other water-associated species, as well as a few localized and habitat-specific species like the rare and near-endemic Sombre Rock Chat, Blackstart and Striolated Bunting.
We will arrive at our hotel in Awash town in the early evening for an overnight stay.
Day 11: Awash to Bilen area (northern Awash National Park). Our first stop this morning will be at the vast Alledeghi Plain a little further north of Awash town. Here we will spend the early morning searching for and hopefully managing to obtain excellent shots of a number of fabulous species such as the regal Martial and Short-toed Snake Eagles, the rare, range-restricted and
Rockjumper & Oryx - Ethiopia Bird Photography Tour and Extension Itinerary 16 magnificent Arabian Bustard, captivating Yellow-necked Spurfowl, the boldly-patterned and striking Black-headed Lapwing, intricately patterned Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse and Double- banded Courser, and the handsome but nomadic Scissor-tailed Kite.
After a delicious field breakfast at the edge of the extensive plain we will make our way to the Bilen area situated in northern Awash National Park. This increasingly arid, picturesque and intriguing landscape is a haven for dry-country, resident and migrant species. Watercourses and rocky outcrops around the Fulhowa Hotsprings harbour Eurasian Sparrowhawk, European Turtle Dove, the range-restricted Yellow-breasted Barbet, Chestnut-headed Sparrow-Lark, Common Nightingale, Blue Rock Thrush, Rufous-tailed and Black Scrub Robins, pairs and family groups of quizzical Red-fronted Warbler, the amazingly musical Black-crowned Tchagra, Steppe Grey Shrike, Red- billed Buffalo Weaver and Chestnut-crowned and White-browed Sparrow-Weavers, the brilliant Nile Valley and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds. We will also make a concerted effort to find and photograph the immaculate and intricately-patterned Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse.
Arabian Bustard with Northern Carmine Bee-eater in tow by Adam Riley
This land is inhabited by nomadic Afar tribesmen who we will see dressed in their fine white cotton tunics, bedecked with traditional jewellery, daggers and spears. The men sport a unique bushy hairstyle, while women and girls are also extravagantly attired and adorned. They adhere strictly to their ancestral ways of tending their camel and goat-herds and roaming throughout this inhospitable land.
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In the mid-afternoon we will make our way back through Awash town and into the southern section of Awash National Park towards our comfortable lodge, scenically situated alongside the Awash River and Kirayawa Gorge and an awesome area for bird photography.
Day 12: Awash National Park (Southern Section). Today we will spend the productive parts of the day exploring the riverine forests, wetlands, Acacia woodlands and savanna grasslands that dominate this southern section of the bird-rich Awash National Park.
Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse by Markus Lilje
The park boasts a bird list of around 460 bird species and we will concentrate on finding and photographing the reserve’s most spectacular and special species. There will no doubt be many highlights and these could include the handsome Bateleur, African Harrier-Hawk, Eastern Chanting Goshawk, Scissor-tailed Kite, Egyptian Vulture, Tawny and Greater Spotted Eagles, Eastern Plantain-eater, the diminutive Pearl-spotted Owlet and giant Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl, Blue-naped Mousebird, gaudy Purple, Lilac-breasted and Abyssinian Rollers, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Eastern Yellow-billed Hornbill, Red-winged and Gillett’s Larks, Somali Fiscal, Grey-headed, Orange- breasted and Rosy-patched Bushshrikes, and the nocturnal Three-banded Courser and Star-spotted Nightjar.
Other interesting and noteworthy species we may encounter and wish to photograph if the opportunities arise include Shikra, Little Sparrowhawk, Helmeted Guineafowl, Common Buttonquail, the charismatic Eurasian Hoopoe, Greater Honeyguide, Wire-tailed Swallow, Singing Bush Lark, White-browed Scrub Robin, over-wintering Common Rock Thrush, localised Ashy
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Cisticola, Eastern Olivaceous Warbler, Grey Wren-Warbler, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Grey- headed Batis, Mouse-coloured Penduline Tit, Slate-colored Boubou, Northern White-crowned Shrike, Northern Puffback, iridescent Nile Valley and Marico Sunbirds, Fan-tailed Raven and Red-
Abyssinian Roller by Ignacio Yufera billed Quelea.
During our explorations we also hope to find the dazzling Northern Carmine Bee-eater perched atop the backs of striding Kori Bustard. This seldom-observed phenomenon will undoubtedly be one of our main target photographic opportunities during our time in this fabulous reserve. In fact, Awash is bustard kingdom deluxe and nowhere else on the planet can boast the chance of no less than six bustard species in one day (Kori, Arabian, Buff-crested, White-bellied, Black-bellied and Hartlaub’s)!
Mammals are also well represented and we may be fortunate and encounter the regal Beisa Oryx, Soemmering’s Gazelle, the unusual, long-necked Gerenuk (the giraffe-proportioned relative of the widespread Impala), Greater and Lesser Kudus, Black-backed Jackal, Common Warthog, the endearing Salt’s Dikdik and nocturnal Abyssinian Hare, African Wild Cat, Spotted and Striped Hyenas, Aardwolf, Leopard and the strange and rare Aardvark.
Days 13: Awash National Park to Addis Ababa. After some final early morning photography in Awash National Park where we hope to utilize the beautiful, golden early morning light and attempt to find and photograph any species that we may still be missing, we will depart Awash and make our way back to Ethiopia’s vibrant capital city of Addis Ababa.
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We can expect to arrive in Addis in the late afternoon with time to freshen up before making our way a short distance into the city to a very famous and excellent restaurant nearby our hotel where we can enjoy a delicious farewell dinner while enjoying some traditional Ethiopian dancing and music. It should be a very festive and thoroughly enjoyable and entertaining evening and a fitting way to end our incredible bird photography tour of Ethiopia.
Beisa Oryx in the Awash National Park Savannah by Markus Lilje
Day 14: Addis Ababa and depart or fly to Gondar for those continuing on the Simien Mountains and Lalibela Extension. This morning those who are heading home will be transferred from our Addis Hotel to the international airport to connect with their flights home, while those continuing on the Simien Mountains and Lalibela Extension will connect with their internal flight up to the city of Gondar in the north-west of the country. Upon arrival we will be met by our awaiting vehicles and begin the extremely scenic drive up into the Simien Mountains where we spend a delightful three nights at a superb lodge inside the Simien Mountains National Park.
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Simien Mountains and Lalibela Extension
Gelada by Markus Lilje
To do full justice to any tour of Ethiopia, one must visit the spectacular, awe-inspiring and wildlife- rich Simien Mountains National Park, as well as the amazing and incredibly picturesque rock-hewn churches and temples of Lalibela.
In the extensive Simien Mountains National Park, we will seek out several very special and impressive mammals such as the magnificent and endemic Walia Ibex, family troops of complex, social and extremely fascinating and photogenic Geladas and the rare and declining Ethiopian Wolf. Bird photographic opportunities are equally impressive and varied and we hope to find and achieve excellent photographs of Ethiopian highland endemics like the intimidating Thick-billed Raven, Spot-breasted Lapwing, Erckel’s Francolin, White-backed Black Tit, Red-breasted (Botta’s) Wheatear, Erlanger’s Lark and the recently-discovered Ankober Serin.
The fabled rock-hewn churches around the small, highland town of Lalibela will be our second port of call and here we can explore the area’s unique 12th century monolithic churches, hewn out of solid rock and now appropriately considered one of the Wonders of the World. These structures must be seen to be believed, and we encourage you to take advantage of this great opportunity to witness and investigate these marvels of human effort and ingenuity!
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While marvelling at the incredible architecture and history of Lalibela we will also find ourselves getting lost amongst what can only be described as Ethiopia’s easiest and most productive and rewarding highland endemic bird photography in the entire country and species such as White- winged Cliff Chat, Hemprich’s Hornbill, White-collared Pigeon, Black-winged Lovebird, Banded Barbet, White-billed Starling, Rüppell’s Black Chat and Abyssinian Catbird are all likely to be seen and photographed very well and at length, along with a number of other fabulous birds like the impressive Bearded Vulture (Lammergeier).
Day 1: Addis Ababa fly to Gondar and drive to Simien Mountains National Park. This morning we board our domestic flight from Addis Ababa to Gondar, the gateway to the world- famous Simien Mountains National Park; home to the critically endangered Walia Ibex, super troops of Gelada and a host of other spectacular wildlife.
Gondar is known as the “Camelot of Ethiopia”. This city was founded by Emperor Fasilidas around
Thick-billed Raven by Markus Lilje 1635 and is famous for its medieval castles and ornately decorated churches – in particular, Debra Berhan Selassie. Gondar is probably the most immediately impressive of Ethiopia’s major ex- capitals and is now one of the country’s largest cities. Flanked by twin mountain streams at an altitude of more than 2,300m (7,600ft), Gondar commands spectacular views over farmlands to the gleaming waters of Lake Tana 35 kilometres (22 miles) to the south. This marvellous city really is a sight to behold, and the ancient castle-like structures give a sense of the city’s age and the kind of civilization that once occupied the area.
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After a quick look around the city we will depart on the drive up into the mountains of the awe- inspiring Simien Mountains National Park, where we will be based at a superb lodge within the National Park for the next three nights.
Walia Ibex by Markus Lilje
This World Heritage Site, with its jagged skyline and blocks of volcanic core rock, was once described as a place where “Greek gods play chess” – and in the next few days we will see for ourselves just how apt this statement happens to be!
Days 2 & 3: Simien Mountains National Park. These will prove to be a very exciting two-days as we explore the rugged Simien Mountains in search of the magnificent Walia Ibex, huge, family troops of Gelada and a wealth of fabulous birds, many of which are endemic to the Abyssinian Highlands. The ibex, a large goat-like creature, sports a monstrous set of horns and inhabits the rugged rocky and grassy slopes of these seldom-visited mountains. The numbers of these animals are gradually recovering now that they are protected and the population is estimated to be approximately 500 animals, up from 200 in the late 1990s. Troops of Geladas, up to four hundred strong, also thrive here, and we will spend quality time observing and photographing these unique and fascinating primates. With long woolly capes, tasselled tails, bare red chests and an arrogant swagger, these last relics of once widespread grass-eating baboons are now endemic to the highlands of Ethiopia. The Geladas roost on the massive cliffs that dominate the park, but spend
Rockjumper & Oryx - Ethiopia Bird Photography Tour and Extension Itinerary 23 their days hunched over the grasses that form the bulk of their diet. Despite sporting massive canines (the largest in proportion to body size of any mammal!), Geladas are extremely docile and not aggressive in the least bit. With patience, we should find ourselves right in amongst a large troop as they concentrate on their foraging. We may also be treated to a formidable lip-flip – the imposing grimace put on by Geladas to reveal their impressive upper jaw and canines, but more likely we will be completely ignored as they go about their daily business.
Geladas with Simien Mountains backdrop by Markus Lilje
Ethiopian Wolf may also be found parading around this beautiful landscape, although they have suffered due to various diseases passed on from domestic dogs and are now rare in the Simiens and are usually only found in the very remote areas of the park. Serval, the Menelik’s sub-species of Bushbuck, Klipspringer, Guereza, the Abyssinian sub-species of Rock Hyrax and Golden Jackal are further mammalian possibilities.
Bird attractions in the area include several species of endemic birds such as Rouget’s Rail, Erckel’s and Chestnut-naped Francolins, Spot-breasted Lapwing, Abyssinian Longclaw, White-billed Starling, White-backed Black Tit, Red-breasted (Botta’s) Wheatear, Erlanger’s Lark, Ethiopian Siskin and the rare and localised Ankober Serin, as well as the striking Augur Buzzard, Tacazze Sunbird and an important population of the spectacular Bearded Vulture and we will attempt to track down and obtain excellent photographs of these specialties during our time in this extensive and picturesque reserve.
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There exists no better place in Ethiopia, and therefore on Earth since it is endemic to the country, where one can photograph the mightily impressive Thick-billed Raven with its staggeringly huge and ferocious bill. We will spend a lot of time photographing these great birds, as well as all of the other target species mentioned above.
St. George’s Chapel at Lalibela by Steve Davis
Day 4: Simien Mountains National Park to Gondar. We will spend some of the morning further exploring the mountains and photographing the great diversity of animals in the Simiens at leisure, after which we will then undertake the drive back to Gondar, stopping for any interesting sightings and photographic opportunities en route.
While in Gondar, we will no doubt encounter a variety of other special Ethiopian birds and good photographic opportunities exist for Black-winged Lovebird, Hemprich’s Hornbill, Banded Barbet, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, Brown-rumped Seedeater and Ethiopian Oriole.
In the late afternoon we will settle into our familiar and very comfortable hotel in Gondar, over- looking the city below.
Day 5: Flight from Gondar to Lalibela; visit the rock-hewn churches. This morning we catch a flight to the historical village of Lalibela. At the end of the 12th and beginning of the 13th centuries, King Lalibela of the Zaghwe dynasty excavated a series of rock hewn churches, the New Jerusalem as he called it, now rightly acknowledged as one of the Wonders of the World. There are eleven churches in this town named after him with others in the surrounding countryside, all of
Rockjumper & Oryx - Ethiopia Bird Photography Tour and Extension Itinerary 25 which are currently still in use. It is estimated that the churches took 25 years to construct, using an enormous labour force.
After checking into our lovely hotel, we will start our tour of the first group of churches with a lunch break at a delightful restaurant at the edge of town where one is often met with amazing eye- level photographic opportunities of the regal Bearded Vulture (Lammergeier).
In the afternoon we’ll continue our exploration of these unique and breath-taking constructions, while being constantly distracted by the amazing number and diversity of confiding and photogenic
The endemic White-billed Starling by Markus Lilje birds.
Day 6: Lalibela area and excursion to Ashetun Mariam. After breakfast we make our way to the church of Ashetun Mariam. Hewn out of the rock atop a 4,000m (13,200ft) high ridge to the east of Lalibela village, this church affords spectacular views of the surrounding rugged countryside. The well-vegetated slopes support a healthy avifauna typical of northern Ethiopia, and we are likely to encounter and obtain excellent photographs of Erckel’s Francolin, the handsome Augur Buzzard, Egyptian Vulture, White-fronted Black Chat, Little Rock Thrush and Yellow-bellied Waxbill. The Lalibela area also supports numerous Ethiopian endemic birds and we could well be treated to amazing photo ops of 15+ Ethiopian endemics here in a single day and these include the attractive White-backed Black Tit, Banded Barbet, White-billed Starling, the localised, near-endemic Yellow- rumped Seedeater, Erckel’s Francolin, White-winged Cliff Chat, Rüppell’s Black Chat, White- collared Pigeon, Hemprich’s Hornbill, Black-winged Lovebird, White-rumped Babbler, Abyssinian Catbird, Abyssinian Thrush, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher and Rüppell’s Robin-Chat.
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In the afternoon we will visit the picturesque cave church of Neakuto Leab and spend some time birding in the area. The waterfall behind which the church is situated attracts large numbers of birds in the late afternoon with amazing photographic opportunities of Hemprich’s Hornbill, the scarce endemic Banded Barbet, Black-billed Wood Hoopoe and large flocks of White-billed Starlings, along with other eye-catching and photogenic species such as Bruce’s Green Pigeon, Common Redstart, Black-billed Barbet, Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Red-billed Firefinch, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu and Little Rock Thrush.
Day 7: Lalibela to Addis Ababa and depart. After some final exploration and photographing in the Lalibela area, we will fly back to Addis Ababa where we may have time to explore some of the historical sites, markets and museums in the city before concluding our mammoth Ethiopian bird photography adventure.
FINANCIAL ARRANGEMENTS: Tour dates, prices, single supplement rates, approximate flight costs and spaces available for this tour are displayed on our website. Please see under IMPORTANT NOTES below.
This includes: • All meals from dinner on day 1 to breakfast on day 14, and from lunch on day 1 to breakfast on day 7 of the extension; • Bottled drinking water; • Tea and coffee at breakfast; • All lodgings during the tour; • All ground transportation; • All national park and other reserve entrance fees; • Transfers to and from the airport to the hotel in Addis Ababa for those arriving within two before the tour starts and departing within two after the tour ends; and • All guiding services (including tips for local guides and services).
This excludes: • ANY flights, (see above); • Visa fees; • Any drinks/beverages/cooldrinks other than water; • Tea and coffee at any other meals or times of the day other than at breakfast; • The optional city/cultural tour on Day 1; and • Special gratuities, telephone calls, laundry and other items of a personal nature.
Single Supplement: The single supplement cost for this tour will be charged if you wish to have single accommodation. If Rockjumper and Oryx cannot provide you with a rooming partner for these nights although you choose to share, the single supplement will become applicable. We will make all reasonable efforts to ensure that a rooming partner is found if you do wish to share.
IMPORTANT NOTES: a) Due to constantly fluctuating exchange rates, we quote our tours in 4 currencies. The tour price is however fixed only in the currency printed in bold, and the actual cost in the other currencies listed will be adjusted according to prevailing exchange rates at the time of final invoicing (usually 4 months before the tour.) The same applies to approximate flight and single supplement rates, which are also quoted in the respective fixed currency.
Rockjumper & Oryx - Ethiopia Bird Photography Tour and Extension Itinerary 27 b) Rates are based upon group tariffs; if the tour does not have sufficient registration a small party supplement will have to be charged. c) Furthermore, these costs are subject to unforeseen increases in tour related costs and may have to be adjusted as a result. d) Lastly, we may be forced to change or alter the itinerary and / or the designated Rockjumper leader/s at short or no notice due to unforeseen circumstances; please be aware that we will attempt to adhere as close to the original program as possible.
Tipping: As noted above, gratuities (drivers, hotel staff, restaurants etc.) are included on this tour. However, this does not include your Rockjumper leader/s. Therefore, if you feel that they have given you excellent service, it is entirely appropriate to tip them.
Please Note: • It can be very hot in some areas, especially in the Awash area, while the highland areas can get cold especially at night and light rain may be experienced in the Bale Mountains. • On our visits to the Bale Mountains we reach 4,200m (13,780ft) above sea level, but very little walking is done at this altitude. • There are several long, all day drives on this Ethiopia trip but we will take regular rest stops and photographic stops to break the long journeys. The longest drives are the Lake Langano to Goba and Goba to Lake Awassa but although they are lengthy, they are also extremely scenic and full of interesting waypoints! • Road conditions in Ethiopia are highly variable and dirt roads can be quite bumpy and very dusty, something that is simply not avoidable. It is advisable to bring a handkerchief that can be tied around your face to cover your nose and mouth. Although an extreme case scenario, persons with back troubles should probably bring back-braces to ensure comfort on bumpy roads. The road infrastructure and standard has however improved a great deal recently and most major roads throughout the country are now in good condition, smooth and paved. • Accommodation throughout the trip is generally comfortable but can be fairly simple in the Goba and Awash areas. Please note that the hotels that we make use of are always the best available accommodations in most areas visited (exceptions are in places like Addis and Gondar where there are very expensive luxury hotels that we tend to avoid). • The food in Ethiopia is generally fairly basic but quite tasty and consists of western and local cuisine. We will also enjoy several “bush breakfasts and lunches” on the side of the road whilst in bird-rich areas. This will occur mainly in the remote Awash area and will be prepared by our very able drivers. Although rather basic, these meals are often a highlight of any tour to Ethiopia.
ARRIVAL & DEPARTURE DETAILS: Main Tour – You may arrive in Addis Ababa anytime you wish on or before day 1 as this is an arrival day. The main tour will conclude in Addis Ababa after breakfast on the morning of day 14. Simien Mountains and Lalibela Extension - The extension will depart from Bole Airport in Addis Ababa on the morning of day 1of the extension, and will conclude by the mid-morning on day 7 at Bole Airport in Addis Ababa. The above information in respect of arrivals and departures is a guide only. Precise arrival and departure information will be sent to you in your Tour Confirmation package once the tour has been officially confirmed. If you wish to arrive early and/or depart late and would like assistance in this regard, kindly contact the Rockjumper or Oryx office.
FLIGHTS
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Addis Ababa Bole International Airport, Addis Ababa (IATA: ADD) is the main port of entry for international flights for this tour and is well serviced by most of the world’s major airlines. We have the capacity to advise you on the best route according to your preferences, but your local travel agent will best be able to book these flights for you. However, please DO NOT book your international flights until you have consulted the Rockjumper office for confirmation on the status of the tour.
Rockjumper Birding Ltd Vanilla Village Royal Road Black River Mauritius Tel (USA & Canada) toll free: 1-888-990-5552 Email: [email protected] Alternative email: [email protected] Website: www.rockjumperbirding.com
And:
ORYX Worldwide Photographic Expeditions (Pty) Ltd PO Box 13972, Cascades, Pietermaritzburg, 3202, South Africa Registration number: 2014/091441/07 Tel: +27 33 394 0225 Fax: +27 88 033 394 0225 Email: [email protected] Website: www.oryxphotography.com