TIM WRIGHT JULY 2007NO. 142 h aiba’ otl oka e Shore & Sea at Look Monthly Caribbean’s The Women at theHelm

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BARTLETT Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales & Distribution Stéphane Legendre Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution - Gladys Jones Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Bob and Judi Goodchild Tel: (473) 443-5784, [email protected] Guadeloupe: Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik Distribution - Wayne Barthelmy Ad Sales & Distribution - Giselle Sankar Cruising Kids’ Corner ...... 38 Dolly’s Deep Secrets...... 38 Book Reviews ...... 39 Product Postings...... 43 Cooking with Cruisers...... 46 Readers’ Forum ...... 48 Classified Ads...... 52 Advertisers’ Index ...... 52 Calendar...... 54 [email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (340) 774 7931, [email protected] St. Vincent & the Grenadines: Tel: (784) 457-3527, [email protected] Tortola/BVI: Tel: (284) 494-2830, Fax: (284) 494-1584 Trinidad: Tel: (868) 634-2055, Fax: (868) 634-2056 [email protected] Venezuela: Tel: (58-281) 265-3844 Tel/Fax: (58-281) 265-2448, [email protected] Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 [email protected] Martinique: Tel: (0596) 596 68 69 71, Mob: + 596 (0) 696 93 26 38 [email protected] St. Lucia: Tel: (758) 584-1292, [email protected] St. Maarten/St. Barths/St. Kitts & Nevis: Distribution - Eric Bendahan (599) 553 3850 Ad Sales - Stéphane Legendre Tel/Fax: + 590 (0) 5 90 84 53 10 Mob: + 590 (0) 6 90 49 45 90 How Sweet It Is Summer on the Rio Dulce .....30 Whale Tales Would you let them steer? .....34 Marooned Swell holds hostages ...... 22 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the ISSN 1605 - 1998 DEPARTMENTS JULY 2007 • NUMBER 142 JULY 2007 • NUMBER www.caribbeancompass.com is published monthly by We support free speech! sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no liability for delayed distribution or printing quality as these services are supplied by other companies. ©2007 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. welcomes submissions of short articles, news items, photos and drawings. Distribution - Hubert J. Winston, Distribution - Norman Faria Distribution - Cees de Jong Ad Sales & Distribution - Lucy Tulloch

Compass Agents by Island: Antigua: Tel (268) 774-6657 [email protected] Barbados: Tel/Fax: (246) 426-0861 [email protected] Curaçao: Tel: (5999) 767-9042, Fax: (5999) 767-9003, [email protected] Dominica: Dominica Marine Center, 24 Victoria Street, Roseau, Tel: (767) 448-2705, [email protected] Caribbean Compass See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. Business Briefs...... 7 Eco-News...... 8 Regatta News ...... 9 Destinations ...... 20 Street Talk...... 24 Meridian Passage ...... 33 Sailors’ Horoscope ...... 36 Island Poets ...... 36 Cruising Crossword ...... 37 Caribbean Compass Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected] www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected] Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] His Hurricane Hints His Hurricane Brad’s Annual Reminder...... 18 Jamaica Hello! Cruisers get Irie welcome...... 20 Guade-Loop 2007 Guade-Loop 29th round-the-island race....10 CHETLAND STÉPHANE LEGENDRE STÉPHANE The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore Look at Sea Monthly The Caribbean’s newspaper: —Continued on next page Barbados Nation , “thousands of people awaiting pass- , “thousands of people awaiting Business Machine USA Today on-line subscribers! goes to press, the Caribbean Tourism Association (CTO), goes to press, the Caribbean Join our growing list of & Updates For full details visit: NOW AVAILABLE! Compass 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 www.caribbeancompass.com Same price, same content — faster delivery! ON-LINE SUBSCRIPTIONS There’s Good News, But Stay Alert daily on single-sideband radio The Caribbean Safety and Security Net, which broadcasts first-hand reports of crimes frequency 8104 at 1215UTC (0815 hours local time) collects against yachts in the Caribbean. These are posted at www.safetyandsecuritynet.com. interactive radio network of The Caribbean Safety and Security Net is primarily an information about safe- cruising yachts which meets for the purpose of exchanging Its main purpose ty and security concerns while cruising in the Eastern Caribbean. yachts, so that sailors has always been to report and log incidents of crime against about where to visit and in the Eastern Caribbean can make intelligent decisions how to behave while there. is still a large part of Net While the reporting and logging of cruiser-related incidents people who listen and/or activities, the Net has expanded into much more. Most as a place to turn when contribute, see the Net as an information exchange and cruising life. there are questions or concerns about some part of this provides a relay on emer- In addition to reporting and logging incidents, the Net watches for vessels miss- gency and priority messages from friends and family, boat natural and manmade, ing or overdue, warnings of navigational hazards both on a variety of other sources for medical services, and, as time allows, information fees, other nets, sources topics, such as customs and immigration procedures and of weather information, etcetera. fewer than half the num- Net controller Melodye Pompa reports that so far this year, to the same period ber of crime reports have been made to the Net as compared fewer reports were made of in both 2005 and 2006. She notes that, in addition, far reminds us, “Let’s not let burglary and incidents involving weapons. However, she lifting and locking their our guard down. As soon as boats in Margarita stopped lock the dinghy to the dinghies at night, there was a string of dinghy thefts. Always you leave it.” boat and to the dinghy dock, always lock the boat when on how to stay safe. Visit www.safetyandsecuritynet.com for additional tips Crime Hinders Caribbean Development Bank and the United Nations According to a recent report, jointly prepared by the World of Colombian Office on Drugs and Crime, violent crime caused by the trafficking is severely affecting the cocaine through this region to Europe and the United States on the region to modernize Caribbean’s potential economic growth. The report called programs. The report police forces, improve crime statistics, and invest in crime-reduction through the Caribbean is added, however, that signs were that the flow of narcotics organizations in distributing diminishing as Mexican cartels take over from Colombian America. drugs in the United States and shift trafficking routes to Central which represents 32 Caribbean countries, is lobbying the US Congress to extend the which represents 32 Caribbean until 2009. According to the CTO’s chairman, Allen passport-requirement waiver Minister of Tourism, “The evidence is now over- Chastenet, who is also St. Lucia’s commerce in the Caribbean have suffered considerably whelming that tourism and Travel Initiative passport rule.” as a result of the Western Hemisphere ports were canceling vacations or losing money on non-refundable tickets.” ports were canceling vacations As this issue of “Overwhelmed by the flood of applications for passports from United States citizens “Overwhelmed by the flood Canada, Bermuda and Mexico, the United planning to travel to the Caribbean, issues passports, has decided to suspend the [require- States State Department, which the rush for passports… it took about six weeks to ment] for passports…. Before Now the waiting time can be as long as three months.” receive the travel document. in According to a June 17th report Cover Photo Tim Wright: WOMEN AT THE HELM Marsha Farfan at the Helm of

Caribbean Requests Extended US Passport Reprieve Extended US Passport Caribbean Requests for all US State Department’s requirement this year, the United States In January of travel to) the from (and thus in effect, passports in order to return citizens to have areas by air went into effect. On June 8th it was Caribbean and other neighboring of passport centers to cope with the resultant announced that, due to inability has been suspended through the end of flood of applications, this requirement US citizens can return home if they show a receipt September. During this time, for a passport. proving that they have applied June 19 th issue of the As Tony Best explained in the Info JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 e-mail: [email protected]/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527(evenings) (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) Located oppositeG.Y.E. Dinghy Accessories * Waterproofing * Aqua Signal*Imray lolaire Charts Apelco *Harken *Sta-lok316SSRiggingCordage * West System*Shields Weblon *Clear Vinyl *Canvaswork Supplies*Marinco *GarminUniden Boatlife *Starbrite *CampZincsMarinePadlocks * OrionSunbrella Racor * Wix *Shurflo* Johnson Pumps*3-MFlags *Perko *JabscoGroco Seachoice *Marpac Teleflex * Tempo *RitchieBreeze * Whale * Ancor Marlin BottomPaint *DelcoUnderwater MetalKit*Z-SparCetolMercury NEW ICUT NATGAABTEL ANDCARIBEDINGHYS DISCOUNTS ON ARTIGIANA BATTELLI Come inandseeusforallyour BEQUIA BEACHFRONTVILLAS CORNER OFMIRANDA &GUARAGUAO, -al [email protected] Standby E-mail: VHF Channel 72 www.bequiabeachfrontvillas.com [email protected] 8-5-43or284-495-4467800-367-8455(waitforring) 784-457-3423 SAILS &CANVASSAILS EEHN:(8 21 6-84 FX (58) (281)265-2448 FAX: (58)(281)265-3844 TELEPHONE: VHF: ch VHF: [email protected] OR EMAIL: OR EMAIL: www.boglesroundhouse.com For moreinformation,For moreinformation, visit: visit: OR EMAIL: OR EMAIL: For moreinformation,For moreinformation, visit: visit: BIMINI &DODGER A C on T XANADUMARINE: including ta GRENADINES c 1 t 6 us

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AINT Caribbean swung throughouttheEastern his trumpet,jazzfromthe‘30s Right: WhenDavidpickedup house rightontheriver moved fromtheirboattoa David andJoycehadrecently Above: Notquitelandlubbers: yacht Mathew, andGregfromthe nied byTrinidrummer,Winston his gardenoftentimesaccompa- Michael Boothman,hostedgigsin known Trinidadianguitarist, tacular results.Theinternationally join themonstagebroughtspec- Encouraging localsandcruisersto unfamiliar withjazzfromthatera. as havemanyotherswhoare by Davidtoplaythiskindofjazz, local bassisthadtobecoached played musicfromthisperiod.A islands asvirtuallynootherband welcome everywhereinthe mostly fromthe1930s,theywere Since MoodIndigoplayedjazz musicians toaccompanythem. other cruisersandTrinidadian permanent bandmembers;MoodIndigo’sbeautylayinthefactthattheyinvited the beat,andthisiswherehereallyenjoyedhimself.JoyceDavidwere ten to15yearsdroppedawayfromhisage.Hiseyessparkled,fingersclicked Though Davidhadsurgeryforadebilitatingbackproblem,whenhetookthestage Caribbean since1993. Indigo, wastheirsignaturetuneaswellthenameofboattheycruisedin many jazzconcertsthatheandJoycehosted.Thenameoftheirband,Mood Trinidad formanyyears.HewillalsobemissedthroughouttheCaribbean Joyce, andthecruisingcommunitywhichremembershimasradionetcontrollerin a fallinthekitchenofhisnewriversidehomeGuyana.Thisissadlosstowife, Barbara Morganreports:DavidDavisdiedonthe23rdofMay2007atage81,after Eight Bells:DavidDavis four humpbackwhales. engaged inhuntinglargecetaceans,wasonceagaingivenanannualquotaof several countries.St.Vincent&theGrenadines,onlyCaribbeannationactively ing doesnotaffectaboriginalsubsistencewhalingandquotaswereapprovedfor ing thathasbeeninplacesince1986.Thecurrentmoratoriumoncommercialwhal- The recentIWCsessionre-authorizedtheexistingmoratoriumoncommercialwhal- lation ofmercury,PCBsandothertoxins. the pointthatconsumptionofwhalemeatcouldbedangerousduetoitsaccumu- at theresumptionofcommercialwhalingforfood,Monaco’sIWCdelegatemade some observersspeculatedthatthenewgroupisaJapanese-inspiredfrontaimed while encouragingtheirutilizationinaresponsibleway,especiallyforfood.”While tainable usewearetalkingaboutpreventinganydepletionofourmarineresources the sustainableuseofworld’smarineresources.MinisterLiburdstated,“Bysus- spearheading theformationofanewglobalbodycommittedtoprinciple May, St.KittsandNevis’MinisterofAgricultureFisheries,Hon.CedricLiburd,is In thewakeof59thmeetingInternationalWhalingCommission,heldin St. KittsMinisterHeadsGlobalSustainableUseBody invited toperformall overtheCaribbean.Marjorie,MichaelBoothman’s mother,… most ofusfeelDavid andJoycewerealwaysinTrinidad,they hadinfactbeen Secret Harbourresort attendedthegig.Theywereaninstant success.Although Their firstconcertwas inGrenadawhereahundredcruisersand fourguestsfrom Curaçao, playingand singingalltheway. with everythingJoyceandDaviddid,they learnedfastandsailedasfarwest that reefingin45knotsofwindand12-foot seasisajollygoodidea!However,as did notknowmuchaboutreefingsailson apassagetoSt.Martin,butsoonlearned David andJoyceretiredin1993bought theboat taking SesameStreettoIsrael. Boston PopsorchestraandtheAmerican Playhouse.Davidwasalsoresponsiblefor radio andintheearlydaysofPBStelevision. Hewasintheforefrontofsettingup before heretired,youcouldnotbemore wrong.Davidhadanexcitingcareerin Although youmightbeforgivenforthinking thatDavidhadplayedjazzforaliving tar. Thisisjustasampleofthemanymusicians whojoinedDavidandJoyceonstage. anytime andjamwithhisbassgui- Russell, anotherTrini,wouldslipin keeps onhis32-footsailboat! his doublebass,aninstrumenthe Tony Gregorysometimesplayed —Continued frompreviouspage —Continued Four Winds on harmonica. Mood Indigo —Continued onnextpage —Continued in theBVI.They JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 Friendship , celebrated 40 —Continued on next page — we wish you many more! Friendship Rose crew celebrating the schooner’s 40th crew celebrating the schooner’s crew hosted an open house for in one piece’, the 1975 Swedish-built piece’, the 1975 in one , plans to carry on to Malta when repairs Malta when to carry on to , plans Friendship Rose a few years ago and have helped make a and have helped ago years few a Mahina Mahina Friendship Rose Friendship Rose from her original owners Friendship Rose Rose since her launching. A toast was also made to Meg and Alan Whittaker, who pur- since her launching. A toast Boat Watch Net Update Watch Net over to the folks at Melodye Pompa reports: Mike Pilgrim has turned the Boat Net website, www.boat- ShipCom, who run the WLO public coast station. The Boatwatch will go to [email protected]. watchnet.org, has been updated so that reports filed there same address. The site states that other e-mails or inquiries should go to the gale-force winds and ‘trying to keep ‘trying to keep winds and gale-force damage.” her considerable causing by a French catamaran, rammed yacht was rac- crewed yachts, working on in the Caribbean his five years who spent Eleandro, and refitting regattas ing in major made. have been Happy Birthday, the iconic island schooner, On June 6th, Bequia’s many more well-wishers. Happy birthday, day trip on this classic West Indian vessel a favorite activity for visitors. day trip on this classic West Indian vessel a favorite activity On return to Admiralty Bay, the years since her launching with a celebratory sail from her usual berth in Admiralty Bay sail from her usual berth launching with a celebratory years since her the English of were made by Jacqui where she was built. Speeches to Friendship Bay, Ministry of Tourism; Deputy Director of Grenadines Affairs St. Vincent & the Grenadines Calvin Lewis, who has been at the helm of the Herman Belmar; and Captain Rose chased the Captain Lewis, center, and the Captain Lewis, center, and : “After three days in Horta braving within sight of their new house for many within sight of Times of Malta Mood Indigo First Maltese to Sail Antigua to Horta set sail from Antigua aboard On May 14th, 31-year-old solo sailor Eleandro Buhagiar to sail from the his 37-foot sloop in an attempt to become the first Maltese he did become the first Caribbean to Malta. He hasn’t reached home yet, but he successfully reached Maltese to sail across the Atlantic single-handed when Horta in the Azores 20 days after leaving Antigua. Joanna Ripard report- Unfortunately, an accident has delayed part of his ambition. ed in the June 17th issue of the Eight Bells: Charlie Cary on The Moorings yacht charter company, passed away Charlie Cary, the founder of at age 89. June 14th in Vero Beach, Florida, The Moorings on July 4th, 1969, in the British Charlie and his wife Ginny founded Pearson yachts. The company grew to over 850 yachts Virgin Islands with six 35-foot worldwide. operating in over 20 countries industrial engineering from the University of Maryland, Charlie earned a degree in at the Harvard Business School, and joined the US Navy completed his graduate work married his junior high sweetheart, Ginny, who accompa- in 1943. By this time he had to Bermuda. For recreation, they started sailing. nied him when they deployed a successful corporate career, and ownership of After discharge from the Navy, Gulf one-design to an Alberg 35, “we decided to look boats ranging from a 28-foot vocation” and the Carys sailed to the Caribbean on into making our hobby our of opening a charter business. their 44-foot yawl with the intent collaborated with Florida yacht builders such as Over the next decade Charlie yachts and Vince Lazarra of Gulfstar yachts, and in the Charlie Morgan of Morgan Beneteau, to produce the optimum charter yachts. 1980s with the French company property in Tortola’s Road The company purchased a prime piece of waterfront Harbour which remains the flagship base for The Moorings. —Continued page from previous play at them to she then invited in Trinidad, the US embassy them play at …heard at the former a performance to give also were invited Village. They Coconut in Bequia. bar and restaurant Schooners learned music. He soon to read at St. Dominic’s orphans David coached In Trinidad, they it once and for music — play uncanny ear had an of the children that many was a bit of a them to read music note for note — so teaching could play it back he left St. star student so that when a trumpet donated for a slog. David had could join the Police Band. Dominic’s he stage of their life to move on to the next David and Joyce were ready In early 2005, river from of Guyana, 60 miles down a house, way out in the wilds plan: building Bartica. They anchored visit the local purchased a pirogue to the work was in progress. They months while home. their house as David’s retirement Joyce often referred to town for supplies. and adven- that his new home provided, the peace and tranquillity David enjoyed see them in their new abode. friends have visited them to turous cruising heaven, I am sure. David will be making Jazz in [email protected]. Condolences can be sent to JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 efits thatwillkeepyoudryandpitch-poling”.Themindboggles.Fortunately,sucha Compass mayhavenoticedanunusualnewproduct:jacketsthat“offerextraben- Perceptive readersoftheIslandWaterWorldadonpage56Juneissue Errata www.oceanswatch.org able managementonthesesystems.Formoreinformationvisit programme willunderscoretheimpactofglobalwarming,pollutionandunsustain- and cost-effectivemeanstostudybothvulnerablepristinemarinehabitats,the endangered marineecosystemsonourplanet.Offeringanenvironmentallyfriendly makers andhumanitarianreliefworkerstoneedycoastalcommunitiesthe zation thatplanstousesailingvesselsandskilledyachtsmentakeresearchers,film- in marineenvironmentalprojects.Oceanswatchisenvisionedasapracticalorgani- cation andconservationinordertopromotetheroleofyachtsmentheirvessels yachting communityandthosewhoareactivelyinvolvedinmarineresearch,edu- group’s goalsistostrengthenandsupportcommunicationsbetweentheglobal having joinedupwithotherenvironmentaliststoformOceanswatch.Oneofthe Insanity world, logging31,400nauticalmilesinher28-footSouthernCrosssloop, DONNA’S NEXTADVENTURE:DonnaLangespent300dayssailingaloneroundthe at dock, intendedforpresentationtotheChiefMinister,canbefound added tothemix,youcanimaginedireconsequences.”Apetitionagainst care ofthelocalpopulationmuchlessanytourists.Ifhundredsmoreadaywere “Most days,thereisn’tenoughelectricity,waterandsewagetreatmenttotake build adockatWhiteBaytofacilitateaccessbycruiseshippassengersisbadnews: swim. AgroupofconcernedboatersandresidentstheBVIsaythataproposalto Dollar Bar,sonamedbecausethewaytogetbeachfromyourboatis WHAT’S UP,DOCK?WhiteBayonJostVanDykeintheBVIisfamousforSoggy www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/media/07/0604/ TIME FLIES:Lastmonthmarked40yearssincemanfirstwentwindsurfing.Visit www.marinamap.com. After freeregistration,userscansavetheirroutespermanentlyon between themarinasandagraphicimagebasedonGoogleMapsisdisplayed. into individualnauticalroutes.Foreachroutethetotaldistance,distances a worldchart,hasimplementedfunctionalitytocombineseveralmarinalocations namap.com between marinascannowbedoneontheinternet.Thesailingportal MARINAMAPS: Drawingsailingtripsonasatellitemaporcalculatingdistances he found.Thisinformallist(typosandall)canbefoundat through alltheBritishAdmiraltycharts(bothbigshipandleisure)listanyerrors Caribbean Sea,tells Laurie, NorieandWilsoninproducingtheImray-Iolaireyachtingchartsfor ing inandwritingabouttheEasternCaribbean.Don,whoisassociatedwithImray, CHART CORRECTIONS:Asweallknow,DonStreethasspentthelasthalfcenturysail- Cruisers’ Site-ings frompreviouspage —Continued www.petitiononline.com/92543/petition.html , Shenowplanstocommitmuchofhertimetheprotectionouroceans, , whichenablesmarinasallovertheworldtobefoundbymouseclickon Compass . that hehasrecentlytakenituponhimselftogo . www.street-iolaire.com www.mari- Inspired . Antigua, GrenadaandSt.Martin,page15.Goodtohaveyouwithus! In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! compass.com. For fulldetailsongettinganon-linesubscriptionto Check itout!Tellyourfriends! and family. individual pageisprintable,forthosearticlesyouwanttofileorsharewithfriends waiting forthepostmantoarrive!Theentireon-lineissueisdownloadableandeach complete related researchisapproved)orwhiletraveling.On-linesubscriberswillenjoythe advertisements includingtheclassifieds—athome,work(weassumemarine- read eachcompletemonthlyissue—everypage,withallarticles,photosand When you’renotintheCaribbean,withanon-linesubscriptionyou’llbeableto now available! Great newsfor Compass Your generosityisappreciated! Community HighSchoolLibrary. R.C InfantandPre-PrimarySchoolinGrenada;JohnRowlandtotheBequia Governor General’sChildren’sFundinSt.Vincent;HeatherBacontotheWoburn Carriacou Children’sEducationalFund(CCEF)inCarriacou;HansBaertothe Palmborg’s animalwelfareprojectinBequia;JohnandMelodyePompatothe Buccament GovernmentSchoollibraryinSt.Vincent;KeithSmithtoMariann Marine EducationandResearch(MER)CentreinBequia;BeckyJonestothe Bequia’s SunshineSchoolforChildrenwithSpecialNeeds;CiarlaDeckertothe and JackFoardtoSt.Benedict’sInfantHospitalinVincent;MikeBeaumont ceeds fromrecentarticlestoworthylocalcauses:BarbaraSparks,ClaytonLewis Who sayscruisersarecheap?Thefollowing Charitable Writers Sarah attel(268)460-1059,[email protected]. For moreinformationvisitwww.antiguayachtshow.com,orcontactAfsaneh held December5ththrough10th,2007. Registration isnowopenforthe46thAnnualAntiguaCharterYachtShow,tobe Register NowforAntiguaShow abouts, pleasecontactSharonattel(868)[email protected]. Christophe FareudoftheFrench-flagged Ahoy, Christopheon They are,ofcourse,availableatIslandWaterWorld. you dryand The Burke’sSuperDry3/4lengthjacketsactuallyofferextrabenefitsthatwillkeep product doesnotexist—thewordingwasworkofourresidentprinters’devils. in Cyberspace Compass comfortable Compass Compass promptly everymonthwhile“backhome”—withoutanxiously Concerto we welcomenewadvertiserHorizonYachtManagementof . readers —on-linesubscriptionsto ! S/Y Concerto Compass Compass , oranyoneknowinghiswhere- writers havedonatedthepro- Caribbean Compass , visitwww.caribbean- are JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 by Julia Bartlett WE ‘R’ WE ‘R’ kay, here’s a scenario. You arrange to get some work done on your boat in your boat on done work get some to You arrange a scenario. here’s kay, the grandkids. home to visit you hop destination while Caribbean a sleepy call the boat- You might be happening. that not much the feeling You have BIG BROTHER O Within seconds someone was walking over to greet me. My unorthodox entry had Once inside the yard the heat blistered me from below as well as above as it reflect- “We are not in a hurry,” Richard Monstein, the owner, tells me from Los Angeles. Right includes a machine that shaves boats down to the gel coat and vacuums up The architect responsible on site is José Luís Donis. He told me the effluent is 98- If you are a closet Big Brother, like me, you can watch what is going on in real time, On a burning hot mid-morning a taxi dropped me off at the wrong place when I On a burning hot mid-morning a taxi dropped me off Or perhaps there has been a nasty storm in the vicinity of your chosen yard. The in the vicinity of your chosen has been a nasty storm Or perhaps there hear the sci-fi the heebie-jeebies. I can at the same time it gives me It does to me, it if it were available? sort of reality? Would I use Do I want this in at least this facility is available find out. And so are you. Because I am about to Guatemala, has included the technology to enable Ram Marina in the Rio Dulce, been spotted on camera. It was an embarrassing way to start an interview, not helped by the fact that I had heels and a skirt on — cooler than my other option, which was jeans, but not the right kit for what is still, in places, a building site. ed up from the pristine, white concrete slab. I swear that you could have easily cooked a full meal on it, never mind an egg. But don’t worry about that. Only the yard workers have to suffer it because there will be a less expensive and less reflec- tive surface for the DIY boats. If a boat needed drying out it, would be ideal though. “We are doing it right first time. Can I call you right back? There’s a strange heli- copter landing on my pad.” the mess in one operation. It includes a channel to take the used water from pres- sure washing into a tank that filters all the chemicals out before returning it to the river. It includes a holding tank pump-out facility and treatment plant. percent pure when it is discharged into the river and Mr. Monstein can monitor the whole operation from his home in Los Angeles (when he is not busy seeing off strange helicopters), including checking on the purity of effluent, so we know where the buck stops in this operation. plus videos and progress reports, when you visit the Ram Marina website at www.rammarina.com. visited Ram Marina, but there was a convenient hole in the concrete wall so I visited Ram Marina, but there was a convenient hole sensible option than walk- squeezed through it rather inelegantly. It seemed a more by then I would have experi- ing all the way round to the official entrance because enced total meltdown. yard and they assure you that everything is on schedule, but still there’s a nagging still there’s schedule, but is on you that everything they assure yard and you want you what they just telling before. Are down this path You have been doubt. check that and to perception to have extra-sensory it be nice again? Wouldn’t to hear your boat doing something? bodies moving around there were actually for yourself? being able to take a peek all is well, but what about yard staff says Doesn’t that appeal? metallics colours change to pearlised of weird variation of pan pipes, music; a sort surrounding me are vaporised. everyday grotty microbes and all the normal, new day. spread like the dawn of a in the Caribbean and it will one boatyard afar in the “state of the art”, ecologically sound haul- you to watch your boat from on of building. The facility is nestled incongruously out yard they are in the process jungle vegetation, between picturesque marinas with a riverbank of rampant wooden docks where boats wallow lazily in the dappled thatched roofs and wobbly in can be heard every afternoon. Locals paddle by shade and the click of dominos the water. Given the innate dignity of the indigenous dugouts and gaze at it from tell if they are impressed or horrified. population, it is difficult to Architect José Luís Donis points out the ‘brains’ of the latest thing in marina technology — long-range surveillance Yacht Yacht Express has been purpose- —Continued on page 44 Yacht Express is expected to reduce the time of a Yacht Express will mobilize through Australia and New Zealand makes you dream of cruising the islands, but you don’t yet makes you dream of cruising the islands, but you don’t Yacht Express Compass at the Yantai Raffles Shipyard, located at Yantai, Province of Shandong in Yantai, Province of Shandong Raffles Shipyard, located at at the Yantai

Sailing Skills Training for All Levels If reading the and to Florida before making a special appearance at the Monaco Yacht Show in and to Florida before making a special appearance at to the yachting community. September, where it will be re-christened and introduced Caribbean from its Dockwise Yacht Transport offers service to and from the Martinique office. For more information, see ad on page 16. makes it easy with a three- know how to sail — never fear! Offshore Sailing School joining its Offshore Cruising day “Learn to Sail” course as the only pre-requisite for limited time only, this 43- Club adventures and seeing the world under sail. For a training, is offering a 50- year-old operation, which leads the field in sail and power Sail course and one of the percent discount for those who sign up for the Learn to following two cruises at the same time: Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast (August 10 to 19) and BVI (November 4 to 11). The Learn To Sail course — which is available in Florida, on the Chesapeake and in the New York metro area — must be taken at least three weeks prior to the cruise start date. The November BVI cruise features a Treasure Quest theme — an island-to-island hunt for doubloons and fun prizes. Packaged together with the half-price Learn to Sail course, the entire package starts at US$1,795.50 per person. Offshore Sailing School has been leading cruises for its graduates since 1972 when it first located in the British Virgin Islands. “There were only a few boats in any harbor then,” says Doris Colgate, President and CEO, who led that cruise and at least 60 more all over the world with her husband Steve Colgate. “We were the innovators in providing flotilla cruising vacations on sailboats back then” she continued. Anyone can participate in the cruises who has taken at least the Learn to Sail course at Offshore Sailing School. “Everyone aboard works together to sail the boat, under the watchful eye of the cruise leader on a lead boat,” explains Colgate. “We get many people returning year after year, qualified now to assume the role of skipper. The success of these adventures has been amazing, with couples who meet here going on to cruise together, even singles marrying and pursuing the sailing lifestyle!” Continuing their tradition of excellence in training at all levels, Offshore Sailing School has recently announced that it has received recognition from the presti- gious Royal Yachting Association (RYA) to provide three practical levels of RYA cer- tification for recreational sailors. The RYA Sail Cruising and Yachtmaster® Scheme, with 2200 schools in its system, is the training standard for the United Kingdom, Ireland, Scotland, New Zealand and Australia. Offshore Sailing School is one of just three United States sailing schools now recognized by RYA to teach its courses. “The RYA training system is considered to be the gold standard worldwide,” says Offshore’s COO Doug Sparks. “It is a knowledge-based system that emphasizes… transatlantic voyage by nearly 50 percent — from 15 to eight days. The ship also will transatlantic voyage by nearly 50 percent — from 15 to crew, an atrium feature amenities such as complimentary cabins for ride-aboard conference, media and fit- with swimming pool, restaurant and cinema, as well as ness facilities. to outfit the new ship DYT has partnered with the International SeaKeepers Society monitoring system. The with the modular SeaKeeper 1000 ocean and meteorological measures, records and trans- SeaKeeper 1000 is a fully automated unit that samples, oxygen and pollution, mits critical measures of ocean health — salinity, temperature, across the globe. among others — to various scientific and public communities Following sea trials, Yantai Raffles Shipyard began construction of the supership in 2005. “ Yantai Raffles Shipyard began construction of the supership is more than 130 feet longer than our largest carrier,” said DYT President and CEO is more than 130 feet longer than our largest carrier,” the development of the Clemens van der Werf. “It marks a major milestone in more yachts on regularly yacht transport industry, as it will not only accommodate but also will deliver scheduled trips to and from Florida and the Mediterranean, them faster.” With a service speed of 18 knots,

Dockwise Yacht Transport Christens Supership Dockwise Yacht (DYT), the world’s only float-on/float-off Dockwise Yacht Transport On May 24th, metre) ship, the 687-foot (209 service, christened its newest yacht transport Express to be safely allows yachts of any size dock bay that built with a semi-submersible operates four is unique to DYT, which also off as cargo. The process floated on and yacht carriers. other semi-submersible Business Briefs Business world, vessel of its kind in the China. The largest Yacht shipping is big business, and with this launching it just got bigger Yacht shipping is big business, and with this launching JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 Phone: (58-281)267-7412Fax:2677-810VHFChannel71Webpage:

Join the growing Breathe Easy number of BOATERS that have solved their mold & odor problems with our Pure Aire Products. with ■ marina internacional El MorroTouristComplex Guarantee 30 DayMoneyBack Maintenance Free USCG LabsApproved Lat. 10°12 No hurricanes270sq.milesofcalmseasFullamenities http://bahiaredonda.com.ve E-Mail:[email protected] Quantum PureAire [email protected] fax: 401.732.6772 ' 24"N Long.64°40 Eliminate Mold,Mildew&Odor www.quantumpureaire.com 401.732.6770 ■ Puerto LaCruz BilgeBuster ■ RoomMate Venezuela ' 5"W training exercises. US ArmyandNavysalvage diversremovedthetiresaspartof theirannual the nearbynaturalreef, blockingcoralgrowthanddevastating marinelife. ing theoceanfloorand washinguponbeaches.Otherswere wedgedupagainst the bundlesboundtogether withnylonandsteelhadbroken looseandwerescour- But littlesealifeformed onthetiresdumpedaboutamileoffshore in1972.Someof dive sites.Theplanalsoservedtodispose of tiresthatwereclogginglandfills. cal disaster.Thewell-intentionedideawas tocreatenewmarinehabitatandalternate a planinthe1970stocreateworld’slargest artificialtirereefbecameanecologi- Divers inFloridarecentlyremoveduptotwo millionoldtiresfromtheoceanfloorafter Tire ReefIdeaDidn’tWork Republic during1998.Todate,ReefBalls havebeenusedinmorethan55countries submerged breakwaterprojectconstructed usingReefBallswasintheDominican on thestructure,reducingwaveenergy that reachesanderodestheshore.Thefirst merged ReefBallsassistinstabilizingthe shoreline byforcinglargerwavestobreak Like naturalreefsthatcontributetothestabilityofbeachesintheirlee,sub- everyone mightcontributetorestoringthenaturalreefenvironment. for staff,residentsandguests,whereFoundationrepresentativesexplainedhow could contributetothepreservationeffort,resortbeganhostingpublicforums Reef Ballsoffshore.Recognizingthattheentirecommunity,aswellitsguests, In 2005,theMarriottcommissionedFoundationtocreateandplaceanother 69 Ivan in2005. waves frommajorhurricanes,includingthedirecthitbyCategory5Hurricane been restoredtoitspreviousdepth.Thebreakwaterhasremainedstableduring that beganatthesouthendofSevenMileBeach.ByFebruary2003,beachhad In 2002,200ReefBallswereinstalledtocreateafive-rowsubmergedbreakwater which isnowsupportinganincreasinglyrichecosystem. March 2007,anewFITstudyreportedgrowthofnew,naturalcoralonthereef, beach, restoreailingcoralreefsandcreatenewfishingscubadivingsites.In Ball Foundation,andtheFloridaInstituteofTechnology(FIT)torebuildaneroded Resort, theGrandCaymanDepartmentsofTourismandEnvironment,Reef A collaborationbeganfiveyearsagobetweentheGrandCaymanMarriottBeach Resort ReportsReefRestorationSuccess Eckert, ExecutiveDirector,[email protected]. If youwouldlikeacopyoftheFieldGuide,pleasesendyourrequesttoDr.Karen focal pointsineveryCaribbeannation. veterinarians, andanimalrescuepractitioners.WithintheyearSTTRCplanstohave internship opportunitiesforfieldstaffandvolunteers,naturalresourcemanagers, at seaorstrandedalongtheshoreline.TheSTTRCwillfeatureregulartrainingand throughout theWiderCaribbeanRegiontorespondseaturtlesincrisis,whether (STTRC). TheaimoftheSTTRCistostrengthenandcoordinateeffortspeople Another WIDECASTinitiativeistheregionalSeaTurtleTraumaResponseCorps cally soundseaturtlemanagementprograms. framework, andtopromotearegionalcapacitydesignimplementscientifi- stakeholders togetherinacollectiveefforttodevelopunifiedmanagement managers, resourceusers,policy-makers,industrygroups,educators,andother Caribbean Statesandterritories,haslinkedscientists,conservationists,resource For morethantwodecades,WIDECAST,withCountryCoordinatorsin40 these unexpectedevents. disposal provideeventheleastexperiencedturtlebiologistwithtoolstoaddress and up-to-dateinformationonresuscitationprocedures,euthanasia,carcass range ofcircumstancesrangingfrombuoyancytoentanglementparasites.Clear professional biologists,strandingpersonnel,andveterinariansareprovidedfora ground, referencephotosofnormalanatomy,anddiagramstoguidenoviceor ma, alleviatingpain,andrespondingtoemergencysituations.Fundamentalback- The guideprovidesacomprehensiveandreadableprescriptionfordiagnosingtrau- turtle illnessesandinjuries,addressingthenatureofseamortalities. Trauma ResponseProcedures:AFieldGuide ment throughoutourregion,hasanewpublicationavailable,entitled ed foritsroleindefiningbestpracticesseaturtleconservationandmanage- The WiderCaribbeanSeaTurtleConservationNetwork(WIDECAST),widelyrespect- Sea TurtleFirstAidGuide not stop—intensehurricaneactivityinawarmerworld.” “Conversely, ifwehavemoresteady-stateElNiñoconditions,itmayreduce—but cane periodthatisunprecedentedinthelast5,000years,”Donnellysaid. exceedingly highseasurfacetemperatures,wecouldexperienceanactivehurri- “If wehavefewElNiñoeventsandastrongWestAfricanmonsoon,combinedwith more oftenontheothersideofAtlantic. and discoveredthatwhenmonsoonrainsincreased,intensehurricanesoccurred The researchersalsoexaminedprecipitationrecordsfromLakeOssa,Cameroon, tant indeterminingthekindofhurricaneactivitywewillseefuture.” Understanding howtheywillchangeinawarmingworldcouldbeextremelyimpor- Niño/Southern OscillationandtheWestAfricanmonsoonarecertainlyimportant. how theywillaffecthurricaneactivity.ButourresearchdemonstratesthattheEl have neverbeenaswarmtheyarenow,sowenoanalogtohelppredict canes,” Donnellysaid.“Overthepastseveralthousandyears,oceantemperatures “Warm seasurfacetemperaturesareclearlyimportantinfuelingintensehurri- past, whenoceantemperatureswerecoolerthantheyarenow. soons. Unexpectedly Caribbean Eco-News Nature . . Thisisapracticalguidedescribingsea Oceanus Marine Turtle mag- JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware !). , his Farr 115 cruising ketch. Compass Sojana today’s Carriacou people. The Regatta’s race events race Regatta’s The people. Carriacou today’s with built sailing “workboats”, the locally highlight from small open ranging different classes some 12 While cargo sloops. boats to decked fishing to the island, sloops are unique decked Carriacou’s as islands other Grenadine boats from open sailing are also join the competition. There well as Tobago sportboats of Petite races for the distinctive and for yachts in both competitive Martinique, and the junior as well as dinghy races for “fun” classes, typically events, along with sailors. The workboat race, are such as the donkey Carriacou attractions is based and the yacht action based at Hillsborough, round-the-island at Tyrrel Bay. The double-handed favorite. race for yachts is always a on page 11. For more information see ad in St. Maarten New Transatlantic Race to Finish The inaugural Transatlantic Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup is set to take place in late November, racing from Real Club Nautico de Tenerife in the Canary Islands to the Sint Maarten Yacht Club for the finish. It is open to monohull Maxi yachts with a minimum overall length of 18 metres (59 feet) that are in compliance with the International Maxi Association’s (IMA) five divi- sion regulations (Racing, Cruising, Wally, Spirit of Tradition, Mini Maxi). After a November 26th start, the Maxis will sail for approximately ten days before reaching the finish line off Sint Maarten. The prizegiving is scheduled for December 14th at the Sint Maarten Yacht Club, where the Rolex Trophy and a Rolex Oyster Perpetual timepiece will be awarded to the overall winner. Over the course of the race, satellite positioning systems installed on every boat will allow organizers, competi- tors and armchair sailors to monitor the fleet’s progress at www.yccs.it. IMA President Claus Peter Offen, from Hamburg, Germany, was one of the first entrants to sign on for the event and will race aboard his new Wally 100. Peter Harrison, the driving force behind Great Britain’s 2002 America’s Cup Challenge, will also compete aboard “The IMA had a lot of requests from owners who want to compete in a transatlantic race; up until now there has been no special race for Maxis,” explained Offen. “The Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, for example, has now added a racing division but there is a maximum boat size so maxis don’t really fit in. The IMA therefore decided to create a dedicated Transatlantic regatta for Maxi yachts.… I expect around ten to 20 yachts for the first edition of the race which we intend to repeat biennially.” Many of the competing boats expect to remain in the islands for several months and are likely to take part in other regattas, including the International Rolex Regatta in St. Thomas, which will offer an IRC division for the first time in 2008 (we’ll have news on that in next month’s

GRANT e-mail: [email protected] z Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear , also from 452 0311 , a Carriacou boat. , a Union Island boat Ark Royal ) Unity goes to press, the 6th North Pimpy ! 758 , won the Largest Kingfish prize ( Islander Fax: Compass Compass z FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR Johnson Hardware Ltd. Johnson Hardware Carriacou, and third was Sailing Club. owned by the Union Island are loads of fun and have These small-island regattas of traditional sailing helped to bring back the love skills in the Grenadines. Underway Caribbean Keelboat Championships As this issue of In first place overall was 27th and 28th of May. It was well attended by partici- by attended was well May. It of and 28th 27th a is always alike. This regatta spectators pants and was no exception. event; this year colourful and Martinique Carriacou, Petite dinghies from Sailing was The weather with gusto. participated Union Island of wind. and plenty — lots of sunshine perfect Second place was taken by with the catch of a 19.33-pounder. First organized by the Northside Sportfishing Club in 1987, the tournament has become one of the high- lights of French Heritage Week festivities. The event benefits the Joseph Sibilly School, St. Thomas Rescue, The American Red Cross, Kidscope, and the Family Resource Center. For more information, call (340) 774-5206. Carriacou Regatta in August The Carriacou Regatta was established in 1965 by the late John Linton Riggs, a Jamaican-born yachtsman who settled on this Grenadine island in the early 1950s. The early-August festival, which began as a local boat racing event held over the Emancipation weekend each year, has now grown to include yacht races and a wide array of sporting and cultural activities. The organizers say that the main aim of the festival is to perpetuate the indigenous art of boatbuilding, handed down by the Irish and Scottish forebears of Sails Caribbean Keelboat Championships are taking Sails Caribbean Keelboat Championships in the Simpson Bay place on June 16th and 17th lagoon, St. Maarten. We’ll have the results for you in next month’s Bastille Kingfish Tourney in St. Thomas Carol Bareuther reports: The Northside Sportfishing Club’s Annual Bastille Day Kingfish Tournament, set for July 15th at Hull Bay Hideaway, offers more ways to win and more cash and luxury gift prizes than any other inshore sports fishing tournament held in the Virgin Islands. In addition to fishing fun, there’s a live band and beach party in the afternoon along with special Coors Light shoreside games. New this year, a continuous free shuttle compliments of Hull Bay Hideaway will run from the parking lot at Sib’s On The Mountain to Hull Bay Beach from 11AM until 11PM on July 15. Jump on or off at Sib’s or any- where along Hull Bay Road. Last year, 67 boats and 272 anglers — including 34 junior anglers — competed. St. Thomas’ Jill Nicolini, fishing aboard Chain & Rope Anchors & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils 452 0299 ) 758 ( Tel: Tel: z

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia Whitsun Sailing Regatta at Petite Martinique Heather Grant reports: The annual Whitsun weekend sailing regatta was held in Petite Martinique on the the DYC competed in May’s inaugural BMW J/24 the DYC competed in May’s by the St. Lucia Yacht Invitational Regatta hosted by Ultimate Club. The new event, sponsored teams, which included Automobiles, attracted seven and Barbados as well teams from Trinidad, Martinique Jerry Bethell skippered the as Dominica and St. Lucia. DYC team and Valence Victor, Marie Mazat and Rowald “Felly” Derrick crewed. On Saturday the teams raced in two groups, swapping boats for each race so that all raced in each boat. The teams were then divided into Gold and Silver Fleets, the winner and second place of each of the groups going into Gold and the remainder into Silver. On Sunday the competition for the winner of each fleet took place. The Gold Fleet was hotly contested between St. Lucia’s Junior Team, skippered by 18- year-old Frederic Sweeney, and another St. Lucian team skippered by the St. Lucia Yacht Club’s sailing captain, Nick Forsberg. The overall winner, by one point, was the St. Lucia Junior Team. The training they received with the Yacht Club’s Junior Sailing Programme and the international experience of Frederic and crewmember Luis Meixner paid divi- dends. In third place was the team from Martinique and fourth the team from Trinidad. The Silver Fleet results could not have been closer. The winner was the boat skippered by the St. Lucia Yacht Club Commodore, Charles Devaux, who won only because he won the last race which, by a quirk of yacht racing rules, made him the winner over the Dominican skipper, despite the fact that Jerry and Charles finished with the same number of points. In third place was Barbados. All DYC team members and supporters declared the regatta a great success, as well as another giant step for the DYC and for Dominica’s infant sailing industry in general. The DYC is extremely grateful to the event organizers and St. Lucia Yacht Club members for being such gracious hosts. The DYC continues to look at plans to race the Dominica flag around the region, and to getting the kids’ sailing program going this summer in Dominica.

News at New St. Lucia Event Dominicans Second historic Dominica Yacht Club’s (DYC) Following the in April, to the Bequia Easter Regatta first race outing Regatta JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 Galante’s eveningbeachpartywaspleasantandwell to current;onlyafewcouldpassit.ButMarie celled astheupwindbuoyatMarieGalantedrifteddue miles against20knotsofwindwasunfortunatelycan- into fivelegs. fleet alltheway. the archipelago.Ageneroussunalsoaccompanied southeasterly windthroughoutthisjourneyaround every night. which includeddifferentshowsanddancingtilllate oughly enjoyedeverybitofthoseeveningparties challenging insomeplaces,butparticipantsthor- by theorganization,andneedlesstosaythingswere Two tothreehundredmealswereservedeachevening organized forthefifthtimebyTriskellAssociation. means, saysorganizerJeanMichelMarziou. cannot bedonerightnowduetolackoffinancial out theCaribbeanalsoneedstobeintensified,but enough toenterafive-dayevent.Promotionthrough- culty manysailorshaveinleavingtheirjobslong than lastyear’s60boatswasattributedtothediffi- Multihull andteninBeachCat.Thesmallerturn-out Racing/Cruising, fourinRacing,fiveCoastal,ten Regatta gathered50boatsinfiveclasses;18 FIVE CHALLENGINGPIECES That firstplannedlegofapproximately25nautical Leg One:GosiertoMarieGalante The morethan150-nautical-mileracewasdivided This editionwaswindywith15to25knotsofeast The regatta,heldthisyearfromMay16to20,was For its29thanniversary,theRoundGuadeloupe by StéphaneLegendre of theCaribbeanatTerredeHaut.Thecoursespecified rough Sainteschanneltookustooneofthenicestbays sail totheSaintes.Thisalwaysexitingrideacross far asVieuxFortanddepartedatmiddaytoraceunder entire Tour. well fortheevening.Theshowwasbestof village ofDeshaieswherethemunicipalitydidthings course beforeheadingdirectlytothecharminglittle appreciated. Itstartedwithanupwind-downwind the raceagainatDeshaies. Rebuffat recoveredwithonlyastiffneckandjoinedin the firebrigade’semergencysquaddidrest. reaction oftheentirecrewgothimbackaboardand the deckandfellunconsciousoverboard.Theprompt tender dramatic accidentwasavoidedasracingclasscon- des ChâteauxareaattheeasterntipofGuadeloupe.A miles) waswindyandrough,especiallyinthePointe edition of on one-designBeneteaus(SeereportinJune2007 Marie Galanterace,asingle-handedAtlanticcrossing cal eventsasthisyearithostedthefamousBelle-Ileto agriculture, isslowlybecomingaccustomedtonauti- organized. Thisisland,traditionallyturnedtowards The fleetmotoredthroughtheleeofBasseTerreas Leg Four:Deshaies-VieuxFort-LesSaintes After alongjourney,thisrelaxing20-miledaywas Leg Three:PortLouistoDeshaies The longestlegonthisTour(about55nautical Leg Two:MarieGalantetoPortLouis TOUR DEGUADELOUPE2007 Clair deVent’s Caribbean Compass skipper, YannickRebuffat,hit

). start atGosier gets offtoatight The monohullfleet LEGENDRE STEPHANE 44 contact [email protected]. Guadeloupe. Seeyouallnextyear! winner PascalMarchais. woman, BirgitKrahé,placedfirst,infrontoflastyear’s challenge inthoseweatherconditions.Thisyear,a and experience. Riffault’s MacGregor,wonbecauseofhisregularity puted astenboatsjoinedin. François YachtClubonaFirstClass8. Class overall,aheadofanewcomerfromSaint ly tunedboatssuchas fought forsupremacy.InRacing/CruisingClass,high- the marinabyearlyafternoon. those 30milesinrecordtimesandeverybodywasat Southeasterly windshelpedcompetitorstocover Pointe àPitre,thefinishlineofthisedition. the Saintesarchipelagobeforeheadingtowards nautical miles,startedonSundaywithasailacross line betweenIleàCabritandTerredeHaut. rounding theSaintestoportbeforereachingfinish ing thelogicofthisclass. Marie seven, dominatedtheclass.Butanewcomer, (TOP 50)with21schoolchildrenonboardinturnsof Parapharmacie Tour deGuadeloupe2007 For moreinformationvisitwww.triskellcup.comor Once again,itwasamemorableTourde For the13BeachCats,thisTourwasaphysical This yearthebusymultihullclasswaskeenlydis- As expected,severalveterancompetitorsagain The lastraceoftheTour,alegapproximately30 Leg Five:LesSaintestoPointeàPitre 1) Racing/Cruising Class 2) 3) 2) 1) Racing Class 3) Pascal Poisson’s Racing ClasswasdominatedbyJimmyDreux’s 1) Coastal Class 2) 3) 1) Multihull Class 2) 3) )Bohl,HobieCatTiger PascalMarchais,HobieCatTiger BirgitKrahé,HobieCat16 3) 2) 1) Beach CatClass , fromtheSailingSchoolAssociationofGoyave. (Feeling 10.40),cameinsecondoverall,disturb- Paulista Marie-Marie Team HP Americano Voile 44 Sofaia Parapharmacie VM Materiaux YCSF YOU 2 Sopsag Coco Kafé Lady Manta Overall Winners , Budet (Gib Sea414),and , MacGregor,Riffault , Dreux , J/112,Champion , Lahary , Bonvoisin , Wilzius VM Matériaux , Jeanne , Feeling10.40,Soret , Cardin , Poisson Paulista , GibSea414 won theCoastal Sopsag (J/112), Crédit Maritime , Patrick Sofaia Marie- Voile JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 de coursean’changin’itatlastminute.Deyexcuse,becausestartlate,dem dem widmespeedboat.Ahgo’getahgoodlookfo’whocheatan’mekmistake. ers, dende16-footan’downtobigboys.T’ingstense.Offdemgoahtrackin’ Robin, Spy,When,Sustain an’ Image —ahdon’thavefo’tellyo’waydemfrom!Inde16-footclassis Perseverance Canouan Regattaisaboutfo’start.Inde28-footclasswegot trough fo’demdrink! me oldparentsusefo’tellgoan’fullupde Trust me,ahknow,becausewhenwassmall somet’in’ yo’fullahwaterfo’animalsdrink. trough an’alldatbecause,fo’me,ahis system an’upperleveltroughlower understand whendemusewordliketrough because Saharadustblindin’yo’.But,ah’don’ de islandsan’,ontopahdat,visibilitylow sout’-east an’howwegotatroughsystemover tomorrow, windgoin’be6to8knotsfromde understan’ demforecastdesedays.Demsay news. Butfo’tellyo’detrut’,ahdoescan’t ah watchin’anlistenin’meTVfo’deweather give demdeyshareinCanouan. good fo’him.Buthesaynothappy,sogo’ come fo’winderaceonMonday;ahlotguts, man gotgutsfo’fixdespritonSundaynightan’ he shareahbadluckatEaster,rollin’Saturdayan’breakingspritonSunday.De changin’ debottom,lightenin’up,gettin’newsailan’alldat,ahmustadmithehad tekin’ deoverallfirstatEaster.Well,afterdoin’allhardwork,shapin’downstern, CANOUAN REGATTA2007 Give DemDeyShare Talkin’ ‘boutmistake,deCommitteemekfirstonebygivin’demahchartwid D Well, isSaturday,26th.Deweatherfairtofine,desunhot.12o’clockan’ Well, isFridayde25thMay,7o’clockgonean’ Liberty, den, deyplannin’fo’Canouanregatta. game, fo’demmanisrealserious.BequiaRegattacomean’gonebut,since em sayregattaisdename,boatracegame.But,ahtellyo’,itain’tno an’ inde14-footis ; inde27-foot, an’ Limbo Teaser My Love,I’mStillAlive,BadFeelings,HardTarget,D an’ . Yo’hearnames?Class2firsttogo,de14-foot- Iron Duke by OrbinOllivierre Confusion ; 18-foot,Worries,Tornadoan’Sweet say heno’satisfywid Bluff, Confusion, Marion, Scope Bluff an’ ‘Class 2firsttogo,de14-footers…’ two laps,aroundamarknort’-westahGlossyHill.Ahsay‘hill’—no,changedat. watchin’ fromdehilltoday(gaspricegoneup!).Isahdownwind Right now,ahneedfewcoldgreenbottles. she. Inde18-foot, Bluff Bluff back, betondat. say nomore.Somehearandsomenotbutdemgone.Demgo’arguewhencome beach an’deygotsomeboomboxbiglikedeboatdemblaringnexttohim,soIwill shortenin’ it.An’fo’mekt’ingsworse,destartmanshoutin’onahmegaphone Sunday mornin’,debreezefeelgoodan’gettin’stronger.11o’clockdemstart.Ah Ah can’tgiveyo’commentaryon Well, demturndedownwindmarkwid . NowisabeatalldewayuptomarkinFriendship.Detidegoin’nort’-west track an’ahcan’tsee Worries tle. Datishowdeyfinish: fight, but,asfarahcouldsee, fo’ ahlottackin’an’datiswhatdeold hard an’dewindcomin’fromnort’-eastlightsodemin till tomorrow. course an’whats-notbutahdidexpectdat.Demgo’argue Perseverance dem lengt’alldetime,leavin’ yo’ lost.Luckyfo’ because alldemboatfast.Don’tmekahbadtackotherwise two ahdeman’lengthenin’,watchin’close she bydewindan’lethergo!Ont’irdtack,cutall givin’ demmoreworries.Ahgo’tellyo’tomorrow. Iron Duke Limbo third, an’ahlittlebitargument‘boutde at all,shesofarbehind—windtoolightfo’ an’ Confusion Bluff Iron Duke , sheain’tmeknone,an’givin’ in deleadden Bluff Confusion because —Continued onnextpage —Continued Confusion first, − upwind coursetoday, Limbo an’ Confusion Perseverance Bluff Perseverance leadin’ datbat- was tackin’in want —put second, den

fo’ ELAINE OLLIVIERRE ELAINE JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13 want. Confusion third or last. say de race no’ finish an’ all race no’ finish say de Perseverance is better upwind but dat leg too is better upwind first also by ah long way. Ah can’t first also by ah Bluff an’ second, Tornado Bluff Perseverance Confusion an’ , Rannie Hazell, Canouan Bluff , Arnold Hazell, Bequia , Adolphus Forde, Mayreau , Samuel Forde, Mayreau , Robert Hazell, Bequia , Wayne Gooding, Bequia , Evan Chambers, Bequia by ah long way an’ by ah long way , Stanley Harry, Bequia , Kingsley Stowe, Bequia , Andy Mitchell, Bequia Overall Winners , Elmore Snagg, Canouan , Bonnie Forde, Mayreau , Allick Daniel, Bequia want she first, want she , Lashie King, Bequia Tornado Sweet Image Limbo Iron Duke Confusion Bluff Perseverance Marion Liberty Worries I’m Still Alive Scope International My Love Bad Feelings Iron Duke Canouan Regatta 2007 Canouan Regatta beat Perseverance 2) 2) joint Class 5 1) 2) Class 6 1) 2) 3) 2) 2) joint Class 4 1) 3) Class 3 1) Monday, last race. De wind holdin’ good an’ de skies clear. Triangle in de bay (two an’ de skies clear. Triangle race. De wind holdin’ good Monday, last Limbo of the Bequia Sailing Club. Orbin Ollivierre is the Commodore Class 2 1) 2) an’ all de boat on de way down. Watch a mess, all boat headin’ fo’ shore now. Goin’ now. fo’ shore boat headin’ all a mess, Watch down. de way on all de boat an’ few hours But after a when dey start! be close dem want fo’ to pay — ah don’t be hell Not reach ah decision. ask if dem in de do an’ beers, ah get ah couple ah pass an’ to be. ah sug- fort’, ah mek lot ah back an’ After ah at fault. right! Is de Committee ah dem at least Talk done, an’ dem accept. spoils equally Share de to de Committee. gestion another day. different matter but is also de overall goin’ be ah fo’ now. Choosing today, ah up de track. It go’ be ah nice race go, small boats first down laps). Off dem close to each de first mark. All dem boat to watch dem go out to on de hill early short upwind, just wha’ is two broad reach an ah other. After all, He carry water Wayne does try everyt’ing. on de draw. Yo’ see, de man She very fast Ah ain’t sure dat full de jugs with water. he light an’ upwind he ballast. Downwind workin’ fo’ him. allowed but it catch up. So he tek first, short fo’ dem dem way down dere an’ de sun hot like hell. No trees tell yo’ ‘bout dem rest because de shade an’ ah cold one. Ah go’ get de results from up here so ah ha’ fo’ find some start at 7 o’clock, short an’ to de point. Ah only wish Committee later. Prize-giving de dat. All in all, it was a good three days. Ah t’ink dem could start de races like room for improvement, yes, next year. Committee did well — but Bluff an’ tackin’ on each Confusion Bluff an’ Confusion turn de top mark first, in de lead, Perseverance Perseverance Yo’ see, dem building ah jet port in Canouan, lengthenin’ de old airport, an’ dem old airport, an’ de in Canouan, lengthenin’ ah jet port dem building Yo’ see, Not to be; is de first race ah see finish without crossin’ de finish line! Dem old peo- Not to be; is de first race ah see finish without crossin’ ‘…an’ down to de big boys’ ple does say, never let yo’ left ear know what yo’ right ear hear. De man startin’ de ple does say, never let yo’ left ear know what yo’ right say dem tell he one, so, as race say two laps but de man dat puttin’ down de mark head up too. So he comin’ up de last boat turn de west mark, he tek up de mark an’ close behind. Downwind dem goin’ fo’ de other lap. other, is man beat man. mark an’ is upwind, blastin’ down Glossy Hill fo’ get stone an’ dirt. So, no hill — dem almost got it flat. dem almost So, no hill — an’ dirt. Hill fo’ get stone down Glossy blastin’ turn de dem boat — too bad. Well, home ha’ fo’ get another an’ dove Dem pigeon —Continued page from previous JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 close tothetworedbuoyseverythingwillbeokay. you willremember,asitisverynarrow,butstaying channel betweenbreakersonaroughdayissomething fishermen’s harbour.Enteringtheharbourthrough percent chanceofbeingtheonlyyachtinthisfriendly has notyetbeenvoted.Nottoworry—youhavea99- is aplantoinstallsomemooringbuoysbutthebudget a time,anchoredwithsternlinestothebreakwater.There Reserve), Marie-Galante,DominicaandLesSaintes. views ofGuadeloupe,theisletsPetite-Terre(aNational table mountainwhichprovides,onaclearday,fantastic running alongthesouthcoastandthenontopof wheel drivetoexploretheisland,firstononlyroad are waitingforyou.Youcanhireamotorbikeorfour- Long beachesprotectedbycoralreefsonthesouthcoast unspoiled andquiet,inhabitedbyonly1,700people. journey isreallyworthit,though,asthisisland François harbourontheGuadeloupemainland.The tourists makethejourneytoDesiradefromSaint Atlantic crossing,greatly“desired”toreachland. named Desiradabecausethesailors,afteratwo-month Columbus in1493duringhissecondvoyage,itwas long by2kmwide.WhenseenChristopher L Beauséjour harbourcanonlyhosttwotothreeboatsat Although shuttleferriesruntwiceaday,onlyfew of Guadeloupe,LaDesiradeisgeologicallythe ocated threenauticalmilesfromtheeasterntip oldest islandoftheLesserAntilles.Itis11km DESIRADE REGATTA2007 Guadeloupe’s SaintFrançois by StéphaneLegendre channel andmarinawillbedredgedtoreachadepthof March 2008,willinclude20visitors’berths.Theaccess project ofrestructuringthemarina. field. Theassociationwasalsodeeplyinvolvedinthe exacting “StationNautique”labelforexcellenceinthis Claude Grassetandhisteamwereawardedthevery based onwatersportsactivities.In2007,President dynamism totheSaintFrançoismarinaandvillage ated in2004;thegoal,amongothers,wastobring island intheLesserAntillesandoneofleastvisited And they’reofftoDesirade,geologicallytheoldest The newmarina,scheduledtobefullyoperationalin Saint FrançoisYachtClubonGuadeloupewascre- to DesiradeRace is toreach20. increased numberofparticipantsnextyear.Thegoal companies agreedtomakeroomintheharbourforan back home.Itconcludedabeautifulweekend. Pointe àPitrewasanenjoyable,sunnydownwindride rum wasprominent. ners receivedavarietyoflocalproductsamongwhich took placeonthebeach.Inoftrophies,win- 10:00 andfinishedbynoon.Theprizegivingceremony their ownboat. seas. FormanyitwastheirfirsttimetoDesiradewith moments negotiatingtheentrancechannel’sbreaking

For moreinformationvisitwww.ycsf.info. Desirade’s localauthorities,fishermenandferry The afternoon’sjourneybacktoSaintFrançoisor Sunday morning’supwind-downwindracestartedat STÉPHANE LEGENDRE STÉPHANE ences —especiallythoseexciting the chancetosharetheirday’sexperi- at alocalrestaurant,gaveallparticipants the firstbeachcat! jury boatwasbarelyontimetowelcome Beauséjour ofDesirade,wasfast—the was tacticalandwet.Thesecondpart,to day’s leg,toPetiteTerreNationalReserve, under sunnyskies.Thefirstpartofthe were fromthesoutheastat20knots outside SaintFrançoismarina,.Winds and BeachCats. three classes:Racing/Cruising,Coastal with tenboatsregisteredthisyearin edition washeldonJune2ndand3rd, those whodidnotparticipate.Thisyear’s participant putsit,theonlylosersare There areofcoursewinners,butasone small —convivialityprevailsoverracing. Hemingway Trophyforsportsfishing. Gardel Trophyforsailingboatsand es otherregattasandevents,suchasthe becomes veryattractiveforyachting. Louis ofMarieGalante,thisarea buoys whichhavebeeninstalledatSaint area. Ifyouaddthe25freemooring Guadeloupe archipelago’seasternsailing airport, beautifulbeachesanditslagoon. including an18-holegolfcourse,thesmall es andactivitieswithinwalkingdistance, sailing vessels,asitwilloffermanyservic- become apopulardestinationformany three metres.SaintFrançoisshouldthen A scrumptiouseveningmeal,organized Saturday morning’sracestartedjust The Desiraderegattaisvoluntarily Saint FrançoisYachtClubalsoorganiz- All thisisgoodnewsforthe JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 . Paulista Studio 10 in first, followed , and third EO Marie-Marie and Pascal Bouvard’s third. Routine Maintenance Š Professional Delivery Š , second New and Used Yacht Brokerage New and Used Yacht Š Marie-Marie Authorized dealers , ‘standing on one leg’ Chimère Orange Clippers Ship Super U www.horizon-yacht-sales.com , one-off design, Philippe Pollet, Guadeloupe , Surprise, Manu Velasquez, Martinique www.horizonyachtmanagement.com www.horizonyachtmanagement.com Full Service Marinas , Feeling 10.40, Franck Sorret, Guadeloupe Secure Moorings & Dockage , J/120, Philippe Champion, Guadeloupe , JDK28, Vincent de Maynard, Guadeloupe came first, followed by Technical Installations Technical , Formula 40, Vincent Trancart, Guadeloupe , with Pascal Marcel’s also from Martinique. In the Multihull Class, it was Passage du Vent Paulista Super U EO Marie-Marie Clippers Ship Super U 3) this successful event Another fresh fish barbecue and abundant wine concluded For more information phone (590 590) 90 80 44. 3) Multihull Class 1) 2) Race Three within a calculated limited The pursuit race started at 11:00. The rule is simple: Clippers Ship were announced: By early afternoon, on Cabrit Island the overall winners Racing/Cruising Class 1) 2) Race Two eager to difficult but everyone seemed after the night before” was “The morning before everyone said au revoir. One wish for next year: to have boats from more before everyone said au revoir. One wish for next year: neighbouring islands join us to race and fête in Les Saintes! For the multihulls, the order of arrival was identical to the first race. For the multihulls, the order of arrival was identical to is calculated according to time of one hour and thirty minutes, the start schedule race a one-design each boat’s rating which gives that third windward/leeward flavour. The first across the line is the winner. Le Ponton by the start took place. In Monohull Class, the winning order was different but the three the start took place. In Monohull Class, the winning order first boats were the same: first face that beautiful windward/leeward racing day. Fifteen to 20 knots of wind, gust- day. Fifteen to 20 knots windward/leeward racing face that beautiful easy sheltered seas were the conditions under which ing to 30 later, sunshine, and Above: Multihull Class winner Left: ‘The morning after the night before’ everyone seemed eager to race again Left: ‘The morning after the night before’ everyone seemed

PHOTOS: STÉPHANE LEGENDRE Marie- By Stéphane Legendre By Stéphane . EO and Manu Velasquez’s [email protected] Paulista [email protected] [email protected] Three great locations, one great management serviceThree 268 562 4725 473 439 1000 599 544 3329 followed by Vincent Trancart’s Formula 40 from Martinique. Multihull class was dominated by Vincent de from Martinique. Multihull class was dominated by Vincent

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Yacht Management Yacht A Wonderful,Windy Weekend Horizon Horizon Yacht Management . . . Horizon Yacht a dedicated private management service. came first in front of Philippe Champion’s J/120 As usual, the weekend racing started by a Round Les Saintes Race. This was fol- As usual, the weekend racing started by a Round Les this year in two classes: Twenty monohulls and five multihulls registered Race One which had to leave Terre de On the Saturday a 10:30 start was given for the fleet, Competitors includ- All the usual local boats were present, plus five from Martinique. Sorret’s Feeling 10.40 With ten to 15 knots of wind for that first race, Franck The Cercle Sportif du Bas du Fort - Gosier, Andrew Dove and Les Saintes sail- Andrew Dove and Les du Bas du Fort - Gosier, The Cercle Sportif fifth edition, June 9th and 10th 2007, were dry and The two days of the event’s By 2:00 everybody was back to Terre de Haut, already preparing for the very hot By 2:00 everybody was back to Terre de Haut, already LES SAINTES REGATTA 2007 REGATTA SAINTES LES lowed on Sunday by two races, one typical windward/leeward race and, to finish, a lowed on Sunday by two races, one typical windward/leeward an interesting way of having windward/leeward pursuit race. The pursuit race was for a beautiful barbecue pre- the whole fleet finishing almost together and on time salads and all sorts of drinks. pared by the local fishermen, featuring grilled dorado, Racing/Cruising and Multihull. to starboard and cross the fin- Haut, Grand Ilet, La Coche, Terre de Bas and Le Paté ish line at the Pain de Sucre of Terre de Haut. based in Guadeloupe. ed two Swan 56s from the Caribbean Swan Charter company because of their rating and the Those two could not expect to attain podium positions battle took place between short legs which had to be covered, but nonetheless a fierce the very experienced skip- Swan Caribbean manager John Burnie and Claude Thélier, the Guadeloupean. per from Guadeloupe. It turned out to the advantage of Marie maker Philippe (Phil à Voile) organize this event, which is not only a wonderful week- event, which is not only a (Phil à Voile) organize this maker Philippe Martinique or goal for boats coming from locals, but also an attractive end break for waters of the Saintes archipelago. As the organ- other islands to sail in the sheltered and nothing is going to prevent them from having isers put it, it is their weekend on the water things are very seriously well organized! great fun ashore, whereas to 25 (gusting to 30) on the Sunday morning. winds ranged from ten knots evening to follow at the village restaurants. Surprise Maynard’s JDK28 JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 Promoters whoworksontheregattayearroundto are women.Let’smeetafewofthem. cial onepercentwhoorganiseanddrivethisregatta Although 99percentofthesailorsaremen,cru- regatta runssmoothly:putthewomenincharge. GIRLS ONSAILINTOBAGO A First upthere’sBettyDavidsonfromRegatta Yacht atRest [email protected] Telephone: +1954-525-8707 DYT USA

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RELIABLE FREQUENTSCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENTSCHEDULES RELIABLE FREQUENTSCHEDULES PHOTOS (4): TIM WRIGHT TIM (4): PHOTOS which servesasthedinghydockinStoreBay. don’t sailawayonthequaintlittlethatch-roofedbarge keeps akeeneyeonthejettytomakesureroguecrew of boatsarrivingtorace. Point Hotelinordertofacilitatetheclearingandout from Tobago’sairportandinstallthemselvesatCrown inveigle CustomsandImmigrationofficialstocome organizes everythingfromAtoZandevenmanages make sureeverythingrunslikeclockwork.Betty is aidedbyDianaClarke,above thing. Thekeyorganizer,BettyDavidson,left, At thisregatta,womenareatthehelm—ofevery- Betty isaidedandabettedbyDianaClarkewhoalso

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RATES COMPETITIVE DESTINATIONS UNIQUE OPTTV AE RATES COMPETITIVE DESTINATIONS UNIQUE RATES COMPETITIVE DESTINATIONS UNIQUE Martinique toLaRochelle–December St. ThomastoNewport–October Port Everglades Martinique toPalma–November www.yacht-transport.com St. Thomas Freeport right …Nancy YenChong, ed withthesailingandsocialevents. are indispensableincarryingoutallmattersassociat- lage. Theydoalltheregistrations,handlecashand and TweedleDee”)runtheraceroomatregattavil- Phyllis SerraoandNancyYenChong(“TweedleDum World Yacht Class Logistics Newport Martinique CALL FOR SPECIALS! CALL FOR Palma deMallorca Toulon La Rochelle Cherbourg —Continued onnextpage —Continued voyage infall2007 newport -freeport NEW! Genoa assisted by… runs theraceroom, Phyllis Serrao,left, Marmaris JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17 skipper Marsha, Sea Wyf Business Machine’s And where would a professional regatta be without an Above: The Regatta Committee — elegance and experience! Left: Carla Rauseo on the foredeck of regatta founder Kevin Kenny’s experienced Committee? Angostura Tobago Sail Week has always been proud to have one of the most elegant and efficient Start Committees in the Caribbean. Pauline Leighton briefs her team of 11 women with strict instructions because accuracy is essential, and all take their roles seriously. This year the ladies started and finished nine races a day — with four races a day for the Racing Class. That’s no mean feat. center, with crewmembers Natalie, Keisha and center, with crewmembers Natalie, skipper Brenda Crystal, and boatowner/former mom!) (who also happens to be Marsha’s Above:

TIM WRIGHT . She is Sea Wyf Carla Rauseo runs the foredeck on Carla Rauseo runs the foredeck a physical therapist — which comes in handy when a physical therapist — which crew through its paces, skipper Kevin Kenny puts the (at the sprightly age of especially as Tommy Gatcliffe sure their pole is always 86) is on board. Carla makes in the right place! her crew to go home from the regatta without a prize. her crew to go home from the place overall in the This year they took second Cruising Class.

TIM WRIGHT proves crew at prizegiving, winning crew this year Business Machine (nearly) all-women crew is skip- Bruggadung II — the boat from Barbados skippered by Bruggadung II’s Business Machine’s Also part of Renata Goodridge is the official Regatta Measurer, the official Goodridge is Renata enata Goodridge, front row center, is official Regatta R Measurer. With fellow Madeleine Mercure is standing in back row on a regular basis they are made of not just beauty but brains and bravery as well. It is rare for Marsha and is Madeleine Mercure. Originally from Canada, Madeleine has lived for years in Barbados, where she is a swimming coach and nursery school teacher. through the CSA rating system, she sails on Bruggadung II pered by Marsha Farfan. She not only has Tobago Sail Week’s only female crew, Marsha is probably the youngest skipper in the fleet. Andrew Burke which was overall Racing Class winner at this year’s Angostura Tobago Sail Week. Renata swears that without a stiff rum-and-coke she can’t get through the daily maths marathon required to work out all the final scores! The rum prevails, and results are out before the prizegiving every evening. —Continued page from previous handicap everyone’s well as calculating and, as JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 In factanythingyoucanthink of- ePaeBe aia Petite Calivigny BleuMarina, Le Phare Leathering SteeringWheels&Grabrails [email protected] Laying-up Covers&Dinghy Dave &JaneRoyce Exterior &InteriorUpholstery Dodgers, Biminis, Awnings, Stak-paks &Sailcovers, Tel/Fax (473)4432960 rnd,West Indies Grenada, we haveitcovered! SCIENTIFIC SAILMAKING NEW L Agents for OCA TION Virgin Islands.At5 ing questions. sailors inourcommunitypassingontheirbodyofknowledge,andNOWisthetimetostartpreparingask- people whohaveinformationtoshare.Properseamanshipresultsfromthewillingcooperationofexperienced are peoplereadingthiswhonewtothetropics,haveforgottenlessonsoflastseasons, north andeastofthecenter.Residentsinwarnedareasareadvisedtorushpreparationscompletion.” winds extendoutthirtymilesfromthecenter.Tropicalstormforceonehundredmiles,mainly book are acceptedbyLloydsandtheUSCoastGuard,amongothers. ABYC isagroupofveryseriousengineersandarchitects.Theirstandardsarethe standardsoftheindustryand spondent doesn’tknowwheretheygetthosefigures;IgotbelowfromtheAmerican BoatandYachtCouncil. stand? Ifmygearneedsbeefingup,howlongwillIneedtodothat? and seewhattheirrulesare. in, someatthelastminute.Manyhurricaneholeshavelocalregulationsineffect. Talktotherelevantauthorities going togetin,andwhereyou’rego,thenvisualizethesamesituation with50otherboatscrowding the bottomtoseewhetheryou’redealingwithhardsand,mixedrockorsoupyprimeval ooze.Visualizehowyou’re area onacalmandpeacefulweekend.Takesomesoundingstoseethedepth, maybeevensomesamplesof locals whoseemtoknowwhattheyareabout,pickoutoneortwogoodspotsand GOTHERENOW!Scopeoutthe going tobeherethroughthesummerseason,nowistimeanswerthatquestion. Lookatcharts,talktothe underway, headedforshelter,in40knotsandrisingwinds—youmayhavealongwaytogofindshelter. winds extendoutaconsiderabledistance,typicallysixto12hoursinadvanceoftheeye.Youdonotwantbe unprepared anchorage. storms toend-of-the-worldhurricanesin24hours,theycandevelopenoughofapunchbringchaossleepy have alotlesstimetogetreadythanyouwouldwish.Whiletropicalwavesdon’tgofromdepressions on theeveningnewsmaypresentitselfnextmorningasanamedstorm,24hourseastofyourisland.You storms andhurricanestendtodevelopoutoftropicalwavesjusteasttheislands.Thatinnocuouswave they leaveAfrica,andwehavesevendaysofwatchingworryingtrackingthedamnthings,July’stropical depended onexactlytheoppositephilosophy. they turnouttohavebeenunnecessary.Safetyatseaforathousandyearshas Nothing ismoredangerousforaseamantobegrudgingintakingprecautionslest not ABYC’s. same forsomethingelseontheotherendofline(likeananchor),thenthat istheskipper’sassumptionand line onacleatforgivenwindspeed Part One: Annual HurricanePreparationHints "The NationalHurricaneCenterisissuinghurricanewarningsfortheWindwards,Leewards,BritishandUS The timefortakingallmeasuresaship’ssafetyiswhilestillabletodoso. Now thatwe’vegotyourattention...Muchaswedon’twanttoadmitit,hurricaneseasonishereagain.There The databelowwasextractedfromtestsdonetofigureloadoncleats,andingiving permissiontouseitinmy We’ve allseenthosetables:“foraboatthissizeuseanchor;forstorm onesizebigger”.Yourcorre- Ask yourself:Aremydeckhardwareandanchorsstrongenough?Justhowmuch pulldoesmygearhavetowith- Other ReasonstoStartPreparingNow So, whereyougonnagowhenthehurricanecomesontoblow?Ifyou’recruising through theislands,andyou’re It isalsoimportanttorememberthatthestormforecastforcenterofstorm,andtropicalforce Well, first:becauseof“popup”hurricanes.UnlikeinAugustandSeptember,whenstormsgetnamedsoonafter Why StartPreparingNow? 01 55020 4000 3200 2400 1800 1400 980 720 500 320 2000 1600 1200 900 700 490 360 250 160 500 400 300 225 175 125 90 60 40 to42kts 15 13 11 10 to30kts 9 8 7 5 4 HORIZONTALLOAD ONBOAT 18 to15kts 16 14 13 11 9 8 6 60 5 50 40 35 30 25 20 15 10 Length Beam BOAT DIMENSIONS Boat dimensionsgiveninfeet,horizontal loadonboatinpounds. Design LoadsforSizingDeckHardware Having saidallthat,here’sthepoop: — FleetAdmiralChesterNimitz,aftera1945typhoonsankthreeUSNavydestroyers A Cruiser’sGuidetoHurricaneSurvival But reducingthewindageofboatsonhardbyremovingsailswouldhavehelped Okay, Ivanwasexceptional,andwehopenothinglikeiteverhappensagain. (power) (sail) PM Atlantic StandardTimethecenterofHurricaneAardvarkislocatedat….force Prepare forPopUps and drownedathousandsailors . Ifaskipperistoassumethatgivenfigureforloadoncleatwillbethe , ABYCwasquiteemphaticthatthisisallthetableshows: by BradGlidden

—Continued onnextpage —Continued DEREK BERRY DEREK load ona JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 Chapman’s Caribbean Compass , we have found nothing Compass , available at bookshops and chandleries or reader feedback on these questions, ranging from the benefit of give a formula for wind force on an object: Area times wind speed Compass A Cruiser’s Guide to Hurricane Survival In fact, taking down masts altogether would have helped even more, and some yards In fact, taking down masts altogether would have helped serious consideration now require it. Even if it’s not compulsory, give this step Personal Preparations PERSONAL NEEDS: If you use prescription medicines, now is the time to put away at least a two-week supply. be. Do you wear glasses or contacts? Spares put away now will be available; replacements after a storm might not a lit- ECONOMICS: Power will be out. Banks will not be open, credit card machines will not work. People will be What Do You Say: Stay or Go? In the last three years of publishing these hurricane preparation hints in the sea • “If a hurricane is coming towards my island, should I hunker my boat down in a hurricane hole or go to • “If my boat is in a hurricane hole, should I stay aboard or seek shelter ashore?” If you missed the last three years of Brad Glidden is the author of A serious examination of the through bolts and backing pads on your deck hardware would be a good idea, too. A serious examination of the through bolts and backing Windage Considerations 40 is to prepare roller furling sails for fast removal. Another task that it is better to do now than when it’s blowing so I don’t have to worry about anchors and docklines Now, you say, I’m hauling out for the hurricane season, • When using this table with the l.o.a. and beam, use whichever gives the highest loads, e.g. a 45-foot boat with e.g. a 45-foot highest loads, gives the use whichever and beam, with the l.o.a. using this table • When high- use one category et al) should cabins, towers, houseboat (deckhouses, with large superstructures • Boats bow- its smallest, swing and present freedom to the boat has here; that of assumptions are a number • There three times doubles, force quadruples; above 42 knots. As wind speed way to calculate loads There is a simple might you need not be overkill. Not only REALLY BIG cleats might imply that adding a few more All this would After a bad storm, the local drugstores may not be open, or may be out of what you need, and may very well not After a bad storm, the local drugstores may not be open, or may be out of what you need, and may very well be able to re-supply depleted or destroyed stocks. tle crazed, and some will be a little unscrupulous; no one will be paying attention to the finer nuances of finance bills. but will want cash, now, and may not be able to make change. So, start stashing away a supply of small and Ones, fives, and tens, in whatever the local medium is. That gallon of gas you need might cost eight dollars, you can’t expect change from a ten or a twenty. and head for somewhere I think the hurricane won’t be?” Piloting, Seamanship and Small Boat Handling squared divided by 100. So a 50-foot by one-foot mast, sideways to 100 miles an hour of wind, is 5,000 pounds trying to tip your boat over. generates more passionate, vehement answers than the following two questions. first-hand experience to ill-tempered rants, you missed a series of exchanges where phrases like “well-meaning souls” and “criminally irresponsible stupidity” were among the most tempered of responses. will re-open those cans of worms next month, and now is the time for you to submit your experiences, thoughts and suggestions for the August issue to me via [email protected]. from from Cruising Guide Publications, www.cruisingguides.com. The new third edition includes lessons learned Hurricanes Katrina, Opal and Ivan. Stainless steel likes to be exposed to a free flow of air around it; when hidden away, say where it passes through Stainless steel likes to be exposed to a free flow of air of rust weeping through on a fastening should be viewed a deck, you get corrosion, pitting and rusting. Any sign eight bolts that are all that’s between you and disaster, with alarm. Hell, if you haven’t looked recently at those than pristine, replace them. pull one or more of them now and if they look any less furling sails off. No ifs, no ands, no buts, no excuses. When a storm approaches, you MUST take your roller NOT stay closed when exposed to 12 hours of tropical Modern roller furling gear is wonderful stuff, but it will in your anchorage when — not if — the genoa unfurls storm force winds. You will not win any popularity contests halyards run free, the blocks and swivels aren’t seized, the during a storm. So, now is the time to make sure the a place for the damn thing below. Likewise the main. An jib comes down smartly, and you can fold it up and find a storm is coming and the *%^#$@#* thing is jammed amazing number of people forget this little detail until yourself to your anchorage mates? Have 500 square feet of halfway down and halfway unfurled. Want to endear Want to have a fun exercise? Go up in a bo’s’n’s chair Dacron flogging away in 30-knots-and-gusting conditions. in those conditions and try to unsnarl the mess. sails off, and you don’t want to do that while the boat is and cleats. Well, good — but you still have to take the further and take the mast out. Some yards, after seeing chocked up in the air. In fact, you should go one step Even if your yard doesn’t require it, if they have boats topple like dominos in a hurricane, make this compulsory. can do all that routine maintenance you can’t do afloat, and the facilities and room, have them pull the stick. You upright more than reducing windage by removing the rig. NOTHING increases the likelihood of a boat staying with the rail in the water just by windage on bare poles; Boats at anchor in a storm are going to be knocked down a boat up on the hard. Older editions of imagine that load on the four or five jackstands holding the strength, you might need the space. You may have to attach three anchor lines or five docklines to those for- the strength, you might need the space. You may have of a cleat to secure three or more 5/8 inch (14 mm) or big- ward cleats. Do you have enough room on the horns ger lines, with multiple turns? a 13-foot beam uses the 3,200-pound figure for winds up to 42 knots. winds up to figure for the 3,200-pound beam uses a 13-foot column. the powerboat by using that determined er than wave action. Surge due to high seas and protection from surge loading wind; and that there is on profile to the increase weight and and/or a lot of chain to of nylon to absorb shock, the load; this where lots will vastly increase the bottom, becomes crucial. angle between the rode and the horizontal calculations for 60, 42 knots; we will leave to the columns for 30 and is nine times the force. Go the wind speed isn’t it? In fact, for impossibly high number, for the student. An us) 120 knots as an exercise 84 and (God help So, if you have weight of the boat. starts approaching the displacement 100 knots, the force wind speeds above by a crane attached lifted out of the water cleats, imagine the boat being about the heftiness of your any questions cleats! only to those —Continued page from previous JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 YAMAHA GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, cnyeBros.Ltd. McIntyre EQUIPMENT MARINE SERVICE SPARES (DUTY FREEPRICES) ENGINES KMRN TEL: (784)4571806FAX:4561364 TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL Y AMAHA MA Located CALLIAQUA,St.Vincent email: [email protected] PHONE: (473) 4443944/1555 E-mail: [email protected] PAIE opposite Howard’sMarine Outboard Engines2HP-250HP Duty-Free EnginesforYachts FAX: (473)444 2899 P.O. Box17,Kingstown Parts -RepairsService R INE DISTRIBUTOR LTD Shearwater attitude ofofficials”( island andabout“theunfriendlyoftenaggressive way. Wehadreadaboutthehighcrimerateon eastern coasttowardsPortAntonio. dropping aswesailed,againstthecurrent,up squalls ofthenightandourspeedwasgradually lunch. Thewindhadeasedconsiderablyafterthe to relishtheprospectofpattiesandRedStripefor coast ofJamaicaroseupfromthedarknesswebegan the lastnight,andasnewdaydawned fect conditionsallthewayexceptforafewsquallson quite adifferentattitude. prepared fortheworst.Weareleaving,however,with sive officialdominmy head. going on—Istillhad imagesofmuggingsandaggres- and ahalfIwas beginningtowonderwhatwas sorted theboat.He was goneformorethananhour station withourdocuments. NigelwentalonewhileI tives whohadcomeoutinoneoftheboats. metres, underthesupervisionofpolice representa- eventually anchoredoffthepolicestation in3.5 several fishermenastheirboatsmilledaround us,and us toManchioneal,wherenocruiserhad been before! some fishermenwhoagreedtogiveusatow. Theytook one seemedtomakeadetourandpass us by. rain cloudsoptimistically,hopingforwind,buteach we wererunningoutofoptions.Wewatcheddistant getting worried;theafternoonwasmarchingonand VHF buthadnoreply.Ourdriftwasslowwewere had triedseveraltimestogetassistanceusingthe ly driftedbackdownthecoasteverclosertoshore.We engine. Neitherofuswassuccessfulandwegradual- of windthatcamebywhileNigelworkedonthe completely. Weweregoingnowhere. the bestofitandkeepsailing.Butthenwinddied even attwoknots,andhadlittleoptionbuttomake We couldstillmakeittoPortAntoniobeforedark, when wediscoveredhadaproblemwiththeengine. knots wedecidedtomotorthelastfewmiles.Thatwas AAC ‘RESPECT!’ JAMAICA T We hadaverypleasantsailfromCuraçaowithper- Eventually Iheardthedinghy returnandabright, We wereaskedtoreportimmediately thepolice We enteredtheharbourundercurious gazeof After aneternitywemanagedtoattractthe attentionof For thenextfewhoursItriedtopickupanybreath When wefoundourselvesstrugglingtodothree just thoughtwewouldmakeashortstoponthe iting Jamaica.WewereonourwaytoCubaand o behonestIwasnotoverlyexcitedaboutvis- D D at anchorinManchioneal.WefoundthatJamaica’sreputationasadangerouscountry isunfounded E E S S World CruisingGuide T T I I N N A A T T ) andsowere I I by KathyChetland O O N N S S contact oursontoreportsafearrival,andwiththat night wewerefeelingmorepositiveaboutoursituation. during ourstay,sobythetimewesettleddownfor man friendlyandhelpful,aswerealltheofficialswemet happy hourthereandwentbackseveraltimes. money ornomoney,asfellowtravellers.Wespenta were wrong;hewasinvitingusforadrinkinhisbar, “Here wego,”thought.“Thehasslebegins.”We a manranupbehinduscallingbacktohisbar. were freetolookarounduntiltheappointedtime. come outtocheckusinand,afteranotherbeer,we been arrangedthatanImmigrationofficialwould been havingabeer(ortwo)withthepoliceman!Ithad smiling Nigelwastellingmetocomeashore.Hehad need helpwithanything inJamaicayouwillfindit. came torealisethat thisistheJamaicanway.Ifyou visited whenwewere passing. stayed chattingfor some timeandthereafteralways call andwantednopayment.Shewasvery friendly;we lady intheshopinsistedweusehermobile phoneto to letourson,inEngland,knowthatwe were safe.The we couldmakeourcallandexplainedthat weneeded no publictelephone! music setsyourpaceasyouwalkalong. Butthereis ing carscalloutgreetingsastheygo.The beatofloud or barstopassthetimeofdayandoccupants ofpass- ture. Peoplegatherinsmallgroupsoutside thestores houses withpatchedroofsandwalls,littlefurni- catch. Manyofthehomesaresmall,roughlybuilt ing foratripor,ifyouarelucky,bringingintheir there isusuallysomeonemendingnets,prepar- cious dishesoffish,chicken,porkorgoat. rudely-built hutshousingbars,oreateriesservingdeli- shop, ahardwarestoreandpostoffice,many main road,hasseveralsmallshops,includingaclothes small vegetableplots.Thevillage,whichstraddlesa green landscapewithanabundanceoffruittreesand It issetatthefootofJohnCrowMountainsinarich, ters fromPortAntonioand80kilometersKingston. Portland ontheeastcoastofJamaica,about22kilome- Manchioneal isasmallfishingvillageintheparishof in mindwewalkedintoManchionealVillage. The firstthingweneededtodothenextdaywas Check-in wasstraightforwardandtheImmigration As wewalkedalongtheroadawayfromvillage, At firstwewereamazed bythisgenerositybutsoon We wentintoageneralstoretoenquire abouthow Fishing boatslinetheshorebehindshopsand —Continued onnextpage —Continued JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21

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Again we were met with kindness and felt welcome Should you decide to visit Manchioneal, you should We took a day out to travel by bus to Kingston and Eventually it was time to move on and we made our The town itself is a bustling place with a good atmos- Our days were filled, once the jobs were done, with filled, once the jobs were Our days were with pride about We found that people talked wherever we went but, of course, we wouldn’t expect anything less from our Jamaican hosts! Time after time people asked us to pass the word that Jamaica is not the bad place it is reputed to be and asked us to invite other cruisers to come and see for themselves. In particular the people in Manchioneal invite you to visit their harbour! We shall certainly return. clear in at Port Antonio and get a cruising permit. As you enter the harbour, keep close to the rocks on your port side where the water is deep. The fishermen take a tran- sit on those rocks and the police station (a square white building with a blue base) where you can anchor safely. The water by the river mouth is shallow and there are reefs, clearly visible, to starboard. It is possible to navi- gate safely closer to the village. Should any boats come towards you as you enter, don’t worry, they are only curious and will pilot you in if you ask for help. their country, of its beauty and its bounty and of their country, of its beauty a dangerous country is how its reputation as unfounded. In fact most of the crime centres around Kingston and much of it between rival gangs in small areas of the city. found the atmosphere relaxed and the people we met helpful. We certainly didn’t feel threatened at any time, even when we were lost on the outskirts of the city, looking for the chandlery which, incidentally, is very well stocked. Portland, the district in which both Port Antonio and Manchioneal lie, has the lowest crime rate in Jamaica with the majority of its crime being petty theft and domestic incidents. The locals take great pride in this and actively work to keep it so. way to Port Antonio. We spent a few days at the Errol Flynn Marina, which is well run by a congenial man- ager and has very good facilities, including a small swimming pool and free Internet access for patrons. phere and a market with the best fresh produce that we have seen for a long time, with all but the apples and grapes being locally grown. The supermarket has most things that one might need. dinghy, through the mangroves and the brackish the and the mangroves through dinghy, clear fresh, crystal we reached so love, until water they who meet others, sometimes Here we would water. time of pass the purpose, and for the same had come laun- doing the ever enjoyed think I have day. I don’t rinsing of unlimited luxury much (the sheer dry so hair so soft was wonderful, our water!). And bathing use the in such pure water. We didn’t after washing once! police showers village, and the boat, trips into the swimming from stopping the surrounding countryside, long walks in Jamaican to talk to all manner of folk. along the way conversa- direct in their approach and people are very life, poli- about all sorts of things; tion evolves easily sea. tics, cricket, the We spent a few days at the Errol Flynn Marina, We spent a few days at the manager and which is well run by a congenial has very good facilities The fishing community here is like a big family and It was during one of these gatherings that the fish- The river was also the place to do our laundry and We settled down for our stay. Manchioneal harbour We settled down for our stay. The entrance to the river is quite tricky, with stony We soon realised that our intended two nights in two nights our intended realised that We soon we were made to feel part of that family during our stay. Every Sunday they have a get-together with a “cook up” during the afternoon and early evening, and we were always included. We were treated to delicious fish soup and baked fish with rice and peas, all sim- ply cooked on an open fire and worthy of any good restaurant. The atmosphere was always very laid back and the air filled with music and laughter. ermen asked if they could look at our charts, having none of their own, to find banks within their 80-mile radius where there might be good fishing. We were delighted to be given the chance to repay some of their kindness and spent a happy afternoon plotting way- points with them, while being plied with beer. (I hope the later ones are accurate!) to bathe. We would go about a mile upstream, in the is protected by a natural wall of ancient coral; it has a is protected by a natural wall large reef just inside the entrance to starboard, and a river flowing in at the southwestern corner. It is, how- ever, open to the southeast and in certain conditions can be very rolly, although we were comfortable for all but three or four days of the three weeks we stayed there. With only local fishing boats using the harbour there is little need for a dinghy dock, so at first we beached our inflatable dinghy outside the police sta- tion when we went ashore. Once we realised that secu- rity was not an issue we began to take the dinghy into the river and leave it tied amongst the fishing boats, always with our air pump and fuel cans on board and never locked. The only outcome of which was that a fisherman asked if he could borrow the pump to inflate some fenders, having no other means of doing so. shallows extending from each bank leaving only a nar- row gap to navigate. Once through, the waters are calm and the mangroves ahead, where dozens of egrets roost at night, give a feeling of tranquillity. On the starboard bank is Manchioneal Fishing Village, a small community; separate from the main village, and sponsored by ‘Feed the Poor’. Manchioneal would be longer as we had to send to the had to send be longer as we would Manchioneal as we quite happy We were an engine part. UK for went to tell starting to feel at home. We were already made us feel the police station and they our friends at shower facili- giving us the use of their very welcome, to dispose of us to fill our water jugs and ties, allowing any help we the station and offering our rubbish at us to the few days later they invited might need. A fed on goat party where we were Inspector’s birthday As news and endless beer and rum! curry, roast fish told us we were stuck many people got around that asked if we that we were staying and they were happy to drop by for a chat. needed anything or asked us —Continued page from previous appar- here is of the people and kindness The warmth ent everywhere. At Manchioneal, every Sunday they have a laid-back get-together with a ‘cook up’, and we were always included JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 talked about options,deciding themostpractical was (See howmyrookie thinking hauntsme?)DavidandI this pinwasastandard partandreadilyavailable. David Ridsdale-Saw. Davidshatteredmyhopesthat needed tobeadded to thelist. noon. Obviouslyatriptoboatyard or chandlery errands beforewemetPatatthehotelin thelateafter- Tuesday, givingustheopportunity to runsome arranged forSeamosstopickusup atnoonon still inplace,andmadeasketch.We hadalready plan mightbegettingofftrack. scary. Inthebackofmymind,Iconsidered thatour mast. Thepinwasstillinplacebutnotsecured —very which holdstheboompiecetopartattached tothe was thethreadedendofpinin gooseneck a seriousbolt. bolt, castlenutandcotterpinintact.Aseriousendto she foundwhatappearedtobetheendofabroken to takeafewpicturesofbeautifulsunset.Atherfeet tucked awayonMondayevening,Nancywentdeck morning andtheplanwasoffrunning.Provisions our cabservice,Seamoss,onVHF16Monday known anchorage.Wehadaplan. uses forhisbusinessclientsandSouthFriar’swasa an acquaintanceinNevisforacabservicewhichhe Tuesday afternoon.Wehadarecommendationfrom on Monday,wewouldbereadyforPat’sarrival Friar’s BayonSundayevening,didourprovisioning usually verycalm.Greatspot.IfweanchoredinSouth short cabridefromtheMarriottandanchorageis makes agreatdinghylandingarea.Thespotisonly umbrellas andaswimraft.Thesouthendofthebeach Shipwreck’s hasabeachwithchaisechairs,thatch South Friar’sBaynearShipwreck’sBarandGrill. example, thereisagoodareatobeachdinghyin Classic YachtRegattaandstartedtoplanforSt.Kitts. invited. WetossedoutourplansfortheAntigua meeting wasattheSt.KittsMarriottandPat tribution tothecompany’ssuccess.Thisyear those employeesjudgedtohavemadethelargestcon- holds ameetingeachyearatresortlocation,inviting St. Kittsforaweek.ThecompanywhichPatworks son Patsayingthatheandhiswifeweregoingtobein the pastweek,I’mnotsurewhatelsetothink. think ofourselvesasrookies.But,giventheevents to TrinidadandbacktheLeewards,it’shard Seamoss tookusto Indigo YachtswhereImetwith I tookdimensionsofthepin,asbestcould withit We lookedabouttherigging,findingthatpiece We anchoredinSouthFriar’sonSunday,contacted We knowSt.Kittsreasonablywell.knew,for A couplemonthsago,wereceivedane-mailfromour I week. After17monthsofcruisingfromBaltimore cockpit tryingtosortouttheblurofpast t’s April24that0630hours.I’msittinginour Left: SilverSeas nature ofcruising,fixingboatsinexoticplaces! ha! Anopportunity!WecouldintroducePattothetrue from thegooseneckandtakentomachineshop.Ah life inananchorage,but,thepinneededtoberemoved to theboat,showoffnewcanvas,givehimatasteof Wednesday wasgone.Wecertainlycouldtakehimout the nameofamachineshopwhichcoulddojob. less boltcomingupfromthebottom.Davidgaveus ed endhadbrokenoffandsecurethepinwithastain- to haveamachineshopdrillholewherethethread- promised the partwouldbeready earlythenextafter- sense ofurgency(“I have aboatthatisinpieces”).He Lucky, understood exactly whatIneededandmy of St.Kitts.Theyoung maninchargeoftheshop, is aremnantfromthe nowshutdownsugarindustry delivered ustothemachine shop.TheSugarFactory our slightlyseasickvisitorbacktoland. pin, jury-riggedthegooseneckbacktogether andgot cult timewiththemotionofboat.We removedthe bit rollyand,whenwegotPataboard,he hadadiffi- encountered thenightbefore.Thebayhad becomea went intopickupPat. eye onthatsituation.Wecleanedoutthe dinghyand around tothesouth.Obviously,weneeded tokeepan of theVirginIslandsandwindswere clocking the USwasformingaweaklowpressuresystemnorth cast carefully.Theaccumulationofweathercomingoff ing anyfurtherconsiderationsforthemorning. checked thejuryrigonboomandturnedin,leav- never hadbreakers.Whenwereachedtheboat, wet andankle-deepinwater,headedfortheboat. again. Onthethirdtrywegotherlaunchedand,very bailed heroutandtriedagain,onlytobeswamped to thepainter,andpulledboatoutofsurf.We selves upontothebeach,Nancystillgrimlyholdingon ing herwithwaterandturtlegrass.Wedraggedour- into thesurf.Thenextwaveswampeddinghy,fill- dinghy intotheairrightoverNancy,andthrewmeout water, filledwithsandandturtlegrass,threwthe before Icouldpullthecord,afour-footwallofblack jumped intostartitwhileNancyheldsecure,but, launch sequence. a surfupbutwesimplystartedournormaldinghy beach wasprettydark.Thereseemedtobeabitof off atthedinghy,Shipwreck’swasclosedand the nextmorning.Bytimecabdroppedus with instructionstomeetusatShipwreck’s9:30 MAROONED At thispointanyhopeoftakingPatsailingon Seamoss pickedusupatthepre-arranged timeand There wasabitofsurf,butnothinglikewhat wehad The nextmorning,welistenedtotheweatherfore- We wereconcerned.Thisbeach,inourexperience, We pushedherindeepenoughtodroptheengine,I We metPatatthehotelfordinnerandlefthim Above: ThemaroonedcrewflankingRobin,whorunstheShipweckBarandadoptedthemforduration alone inthebay—andinaccessible by JohnRowland could move,ifweneededto. would haveherbacktogetherinthemorning.Thenwe the partwouldbereadysoonand,withanyluck,we apart, weprobablywouldhavemovedtheboat.But haps thesouthwest.Ifgooseneckhadnotbeen ing. Thewindwasstillmovingtothesouthandper- back totheboatwithoutanytrouble. attend toabusinesscommitmentofhisownandgot him someofSt.Kitts.Weleftlateafternoonto noon. WespenttherestofdaywithPat,showing day) wasinthesurf tryingtocontrolthedinghy. business suitwhich shehadworntotheofficethat the surftryingtohelp Nancy.Seamoss’swife(inher wave thatswamped us,RobinandSeamosswerein we hadanaudience! WhenIsurfacedfromunderthe cord, justlikethepreviousevening,except thistime dinghy withmethrownclearbeforeIcould pullthe dinghy. Youcanguesstheresult:Nancy underthe surf ontothebeachatShipwreck’s. a rollingmonsterandwasdrivingsix- toeight-foot even thislightwindhadturnedSouthFriar’s Bayinto to thewest.Withliterallyhundredsofmiles offetch, Over thecourseofday,windhad shiftedmore up onshore,outofthereachcrashing waves. the surf,bailedheroutandgot the HobieCat in whenwearrived.Wehelpedpullthedinghyoutof halfway toCubabeforeanyoneknewitwasgone. Hobie Cat,thedinghyprobablywouldhavebeen and thenturtled.Ifwehadnottiedthelineon The dinghyhaddraggedtheHobieCattenor12feet surf hadrisen,grabbedthedinghyanddraggeditout. ing topullourdinghybackshore.Apparentlythe were inthesurf—nowaverysubstantialtry- um! Robin,whorunstheplace,andoneofpatrons machined pinandgreathopesoffixingtheailingboat. with him.WesetoffforShipwreck’sthenewly hotel atfive,asarranged.Hiswifeanddaughterwere repairs inthemorning.Seamosspickedusupat get backtotheboatindaylightandreadydo decided nottohavedinnerwiththem,butinstead reasonable cost.Onthewaybacktomeetkidswe dinghy, wepackedachangeofclothesinZiplocs. noon) so,hedgingagainstanyissuewithlandingthe Pat andhiswifefordinner(Danaarrivedlatethatafter- ed nexttoheronthebeach.Wehadplannedmeet tide pointandtiedalineontotheHobieCatwhichrest- Seamoss. Wemadesurewepulledheruppastthehigh- The nextday,theweatherreportwasnotencourag- We decidedtomakeanattempt launch the The guyshadrightedherandwerepullingback When wearrivedatShipwreck’sitwaspandemoni- The partwasreadyontime,verywelldone,andata We ranthedinghyinatappointedtimetomeet —Continued onnextpage —Continued JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 Compass and . Navimca Vemasca on the Venezuelan at any of these locations (advertis- Caribbean Compass… Compass mainland at You can also pick up your copy of Cumanagoto, in Cumana, and in Margarita at ): readers — on-line subscriptions to , visit our website: bold Caribbean Compass Compass are now available! Compass Readers! When in Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela, pick up your Readers! When in Puerto La Compass We Ask YOU to Support Them. : 3 Locations: PICK UP! PICK Now Available! www.doyleguides.com Mini Market Transpacific TBS Services All the info you need if you are planning a cruise! 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ROWLAND CHRIS DOYLE Sightseeing in St. Kitts is worthwhile Below: At least being marooned gives you time to do tourist-type stuff. Below: At least being marooned gives you time to do tourist-type We spent as much time as we By Sunday, the wind had We took the two painters on the dinghy, each 25 feet long, and tied them end to About then, Robin showed up with a 200-foot line. He and his staff were in early Within minutes the dinghy was bailed, engine started and we were on our way We had been very lucky. There was no damage, nothing had been tossed about in That done, we pulled up the anchor and moved down to Ballast Bay where it was All is well now. The pieces of this jigsaw puzzle we call a life seem to be back in Anyway, if you are ever in Shipwreck’s on St. Kitts and someone starts talking When the commotion and confusion died away, several things were clear to us. were clear several things died away, and confusion commotion When the adventure. The of fear, frustration and days were an odd mixture The next three in the morn- to Shipwreck’s first thing the next three days, we got Each day, for There were more folks around, but they faded into a blur of noise and motion as I noise and motion into a blur of they faded around, but more folks There were Above: Shipwreck’s Bar and Grill on South Friar’s Bay has a beach with chaise Above: Shipwreck’s Bar and Grill on South Friar’s Bay of the beach makes a great chairs, thatch umbrellas and a swim raft. The south end dinghy landing area could with Pat and Dana. We did a bit of tourist-type stuff and just “hung out” a bit. The little hotel we were in was on Frigate Bay, on the beach. There were some interesting beach bars and restaurants in that area. The Shiggidy Shack has superb grilled lobster at very reasonable prices. Down the beach, Ziggy’s had a most interesting mix of patrons: tourists, locals, stu- dents and some castaways like us. They had some good live music and, on Sunday morning, they even serve breakfast. Had we been looking for a three-day land vacation, this spot would have been a great place for it. backed around to the south and the bay had started to calm. We arrived at Shipwreck’s early. The surf was still too high to launch the dinghy. We needed to find a way. We were frustrated and tired of wearing the same clothes for days (thank God we had packed a spare set that first day) and too worried about the boat to let anything stop us from getting to her. end, adding the two lines we use to lift the dinghy with the halyard. Our intention was to swim this long line out to the swim raft in the beach area and pull the dinghy out to the raft, out of the breaking surf. Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough line. to prepare for a filming session for a publicity piece being done on the area. He still took the time to give us the hand we needed. I tied the end of Robin’s line to ours, swam the other end out to the raft, ran it through the eye where the raft’s anchor was attached and swam back in with the end of the line. Robin, Nancy and I then pulled the dinghy through the surf, out to the raft. Nancy and I swam out, secured the dinghy with our line, disconnected Robin’s line and went to work. back to our boat. any of the cabins, and our jury rig was reasonably secure. With the bay still rolling significantly, it took over an hour to get the components of the gooseneck aligned so that we could put in the pin and secure it. much calmer. We stayed in Ballast for a couple of days, checking everything out, then sailed down to Charlestown, Nevis, to really test the rig. place. We are sailors again, not castaways. I’m not sure what Pat and his wife think, but at least we gave them some stories to share back home. about the couple who were marooned, you know the story. gone for only four or five hours), concerned that our anchor would hold. At least the wind generator would keep the refrig- erator and lights on, but we our- selves were powerless. First, our boat was three-quarters of a mile out in the rolling bay, behaving like a bay, behaving in the rolling of a mile out three-quarters boat was First, our condi- her. Next, until us to get to was no way for and there gone mad, metronome Kitts. we were marooned on St. tions changed, us rides and helped us find a hotel, gave sort of adopted us. They folks at Shipwreck’s about us. They are probably still talking where they could. provided encouragement to launch the on several occasions trying assess the level of the surf, ing. We would launch, we After we were sure we couldn’t degrees of disaster. dinghy with varied awhile. We were bounce like a cork for beach and watch our boat would sit on the that we had would hold up, concerned our jury rig on the boom concerned that expected to be the now rolling bay (we had well enough to deal with stowed things —Continued page from previous waves. the crashing dinghy through to get to the struggled

JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24

TYRREL BAYYACHTHAULOUT INSTRUCTOR TRAINING Your ExpertGuidetoCarriacou’sBestDiving cruise throughSt.Vincent,GrenadaandtheGrenadines. Come alongsideoursplendidjettyandreplenishyour ENTERPRISE A steppingstoneasyou B &CFUELS Petite Martinique Welcomes youto For furtherinformationcallGlennClementor supplies of Reynold Belmar.Tel/Fax:(473)443-9110 at thecheapestpricesinGrenadines. Call sign:“GolfSierra”VHFchannel16 Find usrightinthetownofHillsborough! Phone/Fax (473)443-7882andVHFCH16 Dailydivesat9.30amand1.30pmorindividually • RendezvousServiceforSailorsatHillsborough, • FUEL, OIL,WATERandICE • PADI CoursesfromBeginnertoInstructor ● ● ● ● ● ● & 15SpecialtiesinEnglishDeutsch SpecialGroupPricesforSailors • ScubaandSnorkelGearRental • New environmentallyfriendlyhaulout Chandlery Mini -Marina Do ityourselforlabouravailable Fuel Dock,Water 50-ton hoist,18ftbeam,8ftdraft [email protected] Air-FillsatPADI5*Standard • Phone/Fax: 473.443.8175 www.scubamax.com Sandy Island&Tyrrel-Bay E-mail: [email protected] CARRIACOU VHF: 16 Trinidad behind reefs,withanchoragestoonumeroustolist.(See Kendeance PointtothenorthernendofCarriacoutherearemilesshelteredwater Kendeance PointatthesouthernentrancetoGrandBayandWateringBay.From from TangaLangaonGrenada’swestcoast. a fasttwo-totwo-and-a-half-hourclosereach,versusfour-hourslogwindward to WhiteIslandisa14-milecourse.Ifdoneonweather-goingtide,thisshouldbe it isusuallyaneasyreachtoanchorageatSalineIslandjustsouthofCarriacou; on theeastcoastofGrenada.FromSandyIslandoffGrenada’snortheastcoast, route offerstheopportunitytostopatsomeofwonderfuldesertedanchorages sis ofsailingfromGrenadatoCarriacouthehardway,viawestcoast).Theeasy Imray-Iolaire chartB32;the2007editiongivesdetailedsailingdirectionsandanaly- easy wayistosailupGrenada’seastcoast.(Seesailingdirectionsonthebackof yachts visittheeastcoastofCarriacou. on theoppositesideofisland,toclearCustomsismajorreasonwhyfew Customs regulations.TherequirementfortheyachttobepresentatHillsborough, protected anchorages.ButtheyareseldomvisitedbyyachtsbecauseofGrenadian ages. OnthewindwardsideofCarriacou,WateringandGrandBaysaresuperbreef- per day)isbeingcharged,sailorswillbelookingforalternativeunspoiledanchor- Tyrell Bay. benefits ofyachting tourism thatarenowenjoyedbythepeople ofHarveyValeat to thecrowdedTobago Caysandalsoincludethecommunity ofWindwardinthe yachts areanchored inWateringBay.Thiswouldofferyachts asuperbalternative pers tocomeHillsborough bylandtocompleteentryorexit formalities,whentheir Board togettogether andpersuadetheCustomsDepartment toallowyachtskip- Hillsborough). their boatsinHillsboroughtoclearor out(oranchorinTyrellBayandbusto sible; IwastoldinApril2006thatthis absolutelyillegal:skippersmustanchor on abustoHillsboroughenterorclear. Butatthistime,scenarioisimpos- Hillsborough toenterorclearout. occasionally aCustomsorImmigration Officerinsiststhattheyachtcometo Hillsborough toenterorclearout.Thisseems tobeacceptablemostofthetime,but taking thebusfromWindwardtoHillsborough. per ofayachtsailingnorthwardshouldbeabletoclearoutGrenadawaters by he couldcruisesouthtoGrandBay,SalineIslandandTyrellBay.Equally,theskip- Hillsborough toclearin(whichwillgiveawonderfulscenictourofCarriacou).Then in WateringBaystraightaway.TheskippercouldthentakeabusfromWindward to Carriacou, thenheadsouthtoWateringBay. anchor, enter,thenback-tracknorth,beattowindwardaroundthetopend of Bay, insteadofgoingdirectlythereyoumustfirstheadsouthtoHillsborough, from Hillsboroughit’sasailnorthtoUnionenterSVGwaters. around thetopofisland,andthenalegsouthtoHillsborough.Afterclearingout, Harbour. ThismeansabeattowindwardthenorthcoastofCarriacou,reach regulations requireyouclearoutofGrenadabybringingyourboattoHillsborough Watering BayintothewatersofSt.Vincent&Grenadines.Atpresent,Customs After anchoringatSalineIsland,ashortbeatthenextdaywouldtakeyouto If comingfromthesouthcoastofGrenadaandheadingnorthtoCarriacou, Now thattheTobagoCaysareaNationalParkandanentryfee(EC$10perperson It istimefortheMarineandYachting Association ofGrenadaandtheTourist Similarly, yachtscouldbeallowedtoanchor inWateringBay,andtheskipperhop Yachts oftenanchorinTyrellBay,then theskippertakesataxiorbusto I wouldliketosuggestthatyachtscomingfromthenorthbepermittedanchor Similarly ifcomingtoCarriacoufromUnionIslandandwishingvisitWatering So far,sogood.Theproblemarisesifyouintendtocarryonnorthwardfrom STREET TALK:FOODFORTHOUGHTBYDON the EastCoast , pages133/136,fordetailedsketchchartsandsailingdirections.) of Carriacou Opening Up

Street’s GuideMartiniqueto STREET’S GUIDES STREET’S JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 www.shelterbaymarina.com We monitor VHF channel 74 Email: [email protected] Shelter Bay Marina is situated behind Shelter Bay Marina For reservations or more information: Phone: 507 6615-6631 or 507-433-3581 As the hurricane season rapidly approaches rapidly season hurricane As the cove on the Caribbean side of Panama Canal cove on the Caribbean the Colon breakwater inside a protected all weather the Colon breakwater we invite you to enjoy “ HURRICANE FREE” Panama FREE” HURRICANE to enjoy “ you we invite 100 ton Travellift is hauling boats up to 29.5 feet wide 100 ton Travellift is , PM to 4:30 AM . Hopefully you’ll There have been some recent changes in Immigration law in Panama; if any affect cruisers, we’ll have the news in next month’s Compass be able to stick around and enjoy Bocas Town, above, and the archipelago’s great diving, left SS SS NN NN O O O O II II TT TT

AA AA NN NN II II

TT TT SS SS EE EE del Toro DD DD by Karen Bradbeer

The Caribbean current is what makes the formation of the Bocas del Toro archi- The Caribbean current is what is inside the main current that runs along the The Bocas del Toro archipelago risen as the word is broad- The popularity of the Bocas del Toro archipelago has a Port Captain for Bocas del Toro is considered a Port of Entry and maintains There are two marinas in Bocas del Toro, Careening Cay Marina (Marina There are two marinas in Bocas del Toro, Careening Bocas del Toro has excellent water-taxi service for travel within the province. A water taxi also provides service to Changuinola (approximately 45 minutes), a There are two bus services that offer transportation to San Jose, Costa Rica, from From the Bocas del Toro airport you can reach Costa Rica or Panama City. For Cruisers now have a new safe haven from hurricanes in the Bocas del Toro archi-

Archipelago Inside Bocas Inside pelago unique. The current runs at about two to three knots setting towards the runs at about two to three knots setting towards pelago unique. The current itself lies from east to west, unlike what most peo- east and the country of Panama ple think. the fact that almost all of the islands are sheltered by Panamanian coastline. The hump of Colon makes them cup formation of the coastline and protected by the is well protected by large bar- more popular with cruising sailors. This archipelago rier islands with other islands. that only those who really cast by SSB from cruiser to cruiser with the secret hope current is strong, the inside desire such a paradise are begged to visit. Since the who live there. Cruising islands give protection to the various indigenous Indians with the Indians is inter- sailors are starting to find that sharing the remote islands only visual, but aural, offer- esting and unique. The natural rainforest beauty is not sloths, and bats that ing varied calling sounds of the many tropical birds, monkeys, the basics (plentiful rainwa- live in its trees. What more could a cruiser need than to make entering ter for drinking, easy foraging and fishing) with an infrastructure and exiting easy by vessel, launch, bus, or airplane? The clearing process is easy; clearing from outside countries; no agent is needed. hours of 9:00 call on VHF 16 to the Port Captain during the office Carenero), www.careeningcay.com, and Bocas Marina, www.bocasmarina.com. Carenero), www.careeningcay.com, and Bocas Marina, Marina Carenero has 27 slips and has been in service since 1998. Contact on VHF 68; the owners are Mack and Mary Robertson. They have very good security, new showers/bathrooms/laundry rooms, Internet and other services, as well as boat maintenance services. This is particularly good for long-term stays for cruisers who need to leave their boats. Bocas Marina has 75 slips with floating docks, a small bar/restaurant, showers/bathroom, Internet, and laundry service. They also have boat maintenance services. Both marinas take reservations. There are two water taxis that cross Almirante Bay (approximately 20 to 30 minutes) for connecting bus travel to the town of David and other points in Panama. The road from Panama City has recently been extended to David and then on out to Chirique Grande and ending at Almirante. Panamanian town located on the Caribbean side, close to the Costa Rican border. Changuinola is where you can renew your visa for an extended three months, go shopping, or cross the border into Costa Rica for travel and thereby renew your passport’s visa stamp. Sixaola via Changuinola: MEPE and the Caribeños bus line. Also, from either Sixaola or Changuinola, car taxis can be hired to complete a journey to Almirante Bay, where a water taxi can be taken to Bocas del Toro. Panama City, David or Changuinola, there are two airlines: Aeroperlas www.aerop- erlas.com, and Air Panama, www.flyairpanama.com. For Costa Rica, there are two airlines, Nature Air, www.natureair.com, and Air Panama. This gives cruisers many different routes to choose from when planning land travel. pelago. What are you waiting for? Monday to Friday (overtime fees are applicable outside normal hours). All yachts are Monday to Friday (overtime fees are applicable outside permit for the vessel can welcome for a three-month cruising period. The cruising Immigration grants cruisers be extended every three months on an unlimited basis. three months before a stay of three months, which can be extended for an additional having to exit the country. JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 look around. Services turnsonhisoutsidelightsandtakesagood during thenight,JanBrocksieperofB&BYachts power outboard.Inaddition,ifhegoesoutondeck anonymous donationtoPAYS,aswasthe15-horse- Portsmouth police.Thepatrolboatitselfwasan should thatbenecessary,aswellcontactthe call anyoneofthemembersPAYSforassistance, phone —wesawhimonseveraloccasions.Hecan a largespotlightandhandheldVHFradiocell station everynightbetweenduskanddawn.Hehas hired apersontostaffthepatrolboatandheison Security (see The newly-formedPortsmouthAssociationofYacht although currentlyjustatthenorthendofbay. is alsoaddressingtheissuesinPrinceRupertBay, lock theirdinghiesathisnewdock. and boatersusingthemooringfieldinRoseaucan and boatpartsareduty-free.Hestockssomesupplies, Hubert WinstonwilltakecareoftheCustomswork Quikpak, withtwodays’turnaround.TheCenter’s Budget MarineinSt.Martin,usuallyviaLIAT Marine CenterinRoseaureceivesshipmentsfrom make arrangementsforamooring.TheDominica Pancho ServicesorRoots(heworksforSeacat)to improvements forbothcruisingandcharteryachts. Association) inRoseauhaveresultedsignificant out theislandhaveformedDominicaMarine number ofothermarine-relatedbusinessesthrough- Center, theAnchorageHotelandDiveCentera businesses (Pancho,Seacat,theDominicaMarine efforts betweengovernmentandtheprivatemarine government ofDominica),reportsthatcollaborative Development Corporation(thetourismarmforthe Linton, MarketingOfficerfortheNational throughout thisentirecruisingseason.Patricia have comeintotheCaribbeanSafetyandSecurityNet nightly securitypatrolsandnoreportsofproblems changes —allimprovements. PAYS wouldliketoextendthesecuritypatrol Up atthenorthendofisland,asecuritypatrol Yachts visitingRoseaucancallaheadonVHF16for Pancho andSeacatarecoordinating In Roseau, O www.errolflynnmarina.com e-mail: info@errolflyn Contact John Louis•876-715-6044 •876-873-4412 Caribbean, servicingyachts upto95'inlength. The only100-tontravel liftinthispartofthe DESTINATIONS derful timeandseeing,first-hand,many some sixweeksinDominica,havingawon- nce again,myhusbandJohnandIspent Compass May 2007Info&Updates)has mrn.o VHF • nmarina.com Channel16 of CabritsDiveCenterissecretary,and,asindicated man thepatrolboat. anchor duringJulythroughOctober,someonewill time inNovember;however,ifthereareanyyachtsat station untiltheendofJuneandwillresumesome- not yetcoverthoseadditionalcosts.Thepatrolwason near thePortsmouthBeachHotel,butfundingdoes south endofthebay,forthosewhochoosetoanchor in Dominica Changes intheWind Faustin AlexisisthepresidentofPAYS,HelenHepp Errol Flynn &BoatyardErrol Marina THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASON





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security patrol. B&B YachtServices.Thesememberssubsidizethe Bay Restaurant,thePurpleTurtleand including MaxTaxiTours,BigPapa’sRestaurant,Blue of them,atlastcount)aswelllocalbusinesses members includemostoftheIndianRiverGuides(13 in theMayissueof etuat Beach Bar&Grille Restaurant, 24 HourSecurityGatedMarina Open Air Market 1Minuteby Foot Depth Upto25Feet atFace Dock Downtown Nightlife Protected Harbor Navigating thegood life Compass

—Continued onnextpage —Continued , Janistreasurer.Other
JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 , the new dock at the mouth of , the new dock To clarify an earlier report in the To clarify an finished, The Indian River dock is at any of Your dinghy can be locked The Longhouse Pier, where yachts under construction and being expand- ed. As part of the overall extension of the pier, there are plans to build one, and maybe two, dinghy landings. That School students, and the only visible School students, rebuilding the Douglas progress toward razing of the old, severely school is the damaged building. Compass was not funded by the the Indian River guides, but by the Indian River National Development Corporation, European through financing from the Development Fund. for yachts although it is only necessary if you are to tie their dinghies there gas station walking to the bank or the swells in the in that area, or if there are of other bay, as there are a number Blue docks: Purple Turtle, Big Papa’s, There is a Bay, and the town dock. just up the bank and a gas station street from the town dock. the south these, however, be careful on started to side of the town dock: they big freighter cut up and carry away the the wreck that was beached there, but hull are fell apart and pieces of the dock along strewn from the end of the the waterfront. clear Customs in Prince Rupert Bay, is The damage from the November 2004 earthquakes at the hospital and the hospital at the 2004 earthquakes the November from The damage been the best season yet Pancho, Roots, Martin and Cobra all agree that this has section they are working, and walking down the street is sometimes a challenge! a challenge! is sometimes street the down walking and working, are they section most of its classrooms School has up. St. John’s all cleaned Church is Methodist and well as the kitchen space as rest of the class to have the and hopes refurbished Church the St. John’s The lot where of 2008. for use by January available the library being is presently constructed, which parish hall and a small been cleared stood has Douglas can be rebuilt. Sadly, the Roosevelt until the church itself used for services, Secondary space with the Portsmouth students are still sharing Government School office, and a dramatic change will certainly make it easier getting to the Customs from climbing over old tires. many staying for more than for yachting in Dominica: lots of boats stopping and night between Portsmouth overnight. Jan claims he counted 66 boats at anchor one and the Cabrits cruise ship dock. The new PAYS security patrol boat in Prince Rupert Bay, Dominica The new PAYS security patrol boat in Prince Rupert Bay, ) to the street in front of Big Papa’s. AM We were invited to enjoy the hospitality of Ms. Patricia Etiene at the Purple Turtle at the Purple Patricia Etiene of Ms. the hospitality invited to enjoy We were and has developed seasons now Bay for two in Prince Rupert has been Jan himself side, the On the communications still the The Portsmouth Market is days a Trash pickup is now three There seems to be lots of construction going on all over the island. In There seems to be lots of construction going on —Continued page from previous Martin, Helen, Jan, (Faustin, executive committee of the PAYS a meeting and attend enthu- plans. They are and future to date to discuss progress and Patricia) Eddison for next season. look good ideas, so things and full of great siastic He can arrange visiting yachts need. brokering many of the services a business of Service in tanks from Dominica Marine for American and European propane refills installed a water pipe Roseau. He has a mooring just in front of leading out to you can take on water Big Papa’s where rate we’ve found. at the least expensive can arrange laundry, ice, In addition, he receiving of duty-free garbage disposal, take care of ordering, parts (he will and pick-up at Customs clearance, a range of Canefield Airport), as well as failing to repair services. Our fridge was to us was cool and the fellow he sent out priced. quick, competent and reasonably Internet out Purple Turtle has wireless to the bay, through HOTHOTHOT. weekly or Subscriptions are daily, the user ID monthly, and you can carry Bequia, on to Antigua, Les Saintes, islands. Grenada and a number of other of selec- best in the Caribbean in terms and price. tion, quantity, fresh quality — you It starts early Saturday morning announcing can hear the conch horn to get there fresh fish for sale. You need every- early, and I mean early, because thing closes up by mid-morning. week: Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. There is no longer a garbage tip at the town dock/bus park. Jan can arrange to have your trash picked up from your boat; there are several surf- boarders who will do this, or you can carry it in (those mornings only before 10:00 Portsmouth alone, the single-lane bridge between town and the Blue Bay Portsmouth alone, the single-lane bridge between straightened. In town, the Restaurant is being widened to two lanes and the road repaving Bay Street and water company is laying new lines, and, in the process, patterns depending on which putting in new sidewalks. Traffic moves in different s a summertime cruising destination, Tobago has it all or nothing at all, depending on how A you look at it. Tobago: If you like a natural tropical environment, a choice of undeveloped anchorages, a broad range of diving and hiking opportunities, cultural events such as bumboat races, goat races and the Heritage Festival, The Unsung Summer Place and the idea of cruising below the usual hurricane by Sally Erdle belt, Tobago has it all. If you like to be away from crowds, the appeal grows even stronger. All was buzzing in Store Bay when we arrived in Tobago on May 12th. The island’s premiere annual regatta was a magnet for boats from neighboring islands; the anchorage was alive with race boats, their dinghies and mother ships, and other craft attracted by the event. The Regatta Village on the grounds of the Crown Point Hotel was jumping. The sprawling Hilton Tobago Resort, where we were welcomed for our shoreside stay, was full of Trinidadian families treating Mom to a special Mother’s Day week-end. In the evening, the open-air Tartaruga restaurant at Buccoo served up world-class Italian cuisine to tables of appreciative diners. The next night, “Sunday School” — a street party with craft stalls, rum shops and live steel pan music — thronged with tourists and locals. We lunched well at Café Iguana and at the food court by the public beach at Store Bay, where it was hard to find a free table. Dinner at Patino’s on Sunday was impressive. Yes, tourism is strong in Tobago. But when we ventured up the winding country road along the northwest coast, enticing coves such as Castara and Englishman’s Bay were empty. Not one yacht. The palm trees were waving invitingly. The water was calm and oh-so-clear. The beaches were long, sandy, clean and not overdeveloped by any stretch of the imagination; the sole establishment on Englishman’s Bay was a funky little beach bar, which was closed. A lone Rastaman hung some handmade bamboo wind- chimes in a shade tree, hoping for the day’s sale. Why were these and other apparently perfect anchorages empty? Okay, sailing to Tobago from the rest of the island chain can be a long struggle against wind and current. What’s missing in this picture? Marinas, moorings, docks and other paraphernalia — or just you and your yacht And once you get there, you must mind the special swinging peacefully at anchor? yacht clearance formalities (see sidebar). And lying along a northeast to southwest axis, at north winds and big swells. But the good news is November through March. Chris Doyle’s Cruising only a slight angle to the northeast tradewinds, that in the summer, the trades tend to mellow out Guide to Trinidad & Tobago lists more than a dozen there is no real “leeward” side. Many lovely anchor- and come more from the east or even southeast, anchorages from which to choose, depending on ages can become untenable in times of strong and the big swells are normally felt only from prevailing conditions,… JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 Cruising Guide to Trinidad & Trinidad & Tobago Boaters’ Directory for information on yacht clearance. Clearing In Tobago Clearing If coming from abroad, go directly with your yacht to with your yacht go directly from abroad, If coming starboard fly your Q flag from the It’s proper to TT$50 (about US$8) Customs will charge you a 90-day stay upon entry. Immigration usually grants from Trinidad and then If you plan to sail to Tobago Handy phone numbers in Scarborough: Customs (868) Thanks to the one of Tobago’s ports of entry, Scarborough or Scarborough of entry, Tobago’s ports one of then Customs and in first with to check Charlotteville, delays, and Directly means with no with Immigration. at any day, including official holidays, applies every should pres- or night. The whole crew hour of the day in, let the at check-in. When you clear ent themselves wish to visit. know all the harbors you Customs officer replace it cleared by Immigration; then spreader until Note that & Tobago courtesy flag. with the Trinidad at the same Tobago, you must clear out when you leave clear in at your checked in. If you port of entry where in Trinidad, let Customs Tobago and plan to clear out know so that they can send and Immigration in Tobago to Trinidad with you. the appropriate paperwork You pay for the first Navigation Dues per month. and any additional when month when you clear in, other fees to clear in or out you clear out. There are no are, however, overtime of Trinidad & Tobago. There your arrival to clear in on charges. To avoid them, time 1600 hours. a weekday between 0800 and longer, request up to If you wish to stay in the country TT$50 for a Visa Waiver. 180 days. If granted, you’ll pay an extension one week Alternatively, you may request 90 days; if granted, you prior to the end of your original above. If a crewmember is will pay for the Visa Waiver as they must report to arriving in Tobago by air, to sign on to the vessel. Immigration within 24 hours out of the country, go to return to Trinidad to clear Trinidad before departing for Customs and Immigration in Tobago and have them endorse your entry papers. At the first reasonable opportunity, show these to Customs and Immigration in Tobago. In this case, you can leave the boat in a convenient anchorage and go by bus; the whole crew should go. Before returning to Trinidad, the captain must obtain clearance from Tobago, requesting Customs and Immigration endorsements. Tell the officers if you want to drop anchor along the north coast of Trinidad. 639-2415; Immigration 639-0006; Coast Guard 639-1461. and Chris Doyle’s Tobago Boaters’ Directory He added, “We will have to convince He added, “We will have to that “There has been much controver- that “There has been much of the sy concerning the pollution visiting waters around Tobago by Office has cruisers. The Marine Park discharge asked cruisers to… not any of heads or holding tanks within because Trinidad & Tobago is one because Trinidad wealth from oil and gas, country, with to island nations more as compared tourism alone, “We can dependent on and do it right. We are afford to wait of what a bad decision very conscious propose to compro- can do. We don’t for whatever mise our environment is material gains. Our environment Tobago is the legacy we have, and weather to famous for it. It’s up to the to keep it keep it green — our job is clean and pristine.” are doing the people of Tobago that we environ- everything to protect the to repre- ment. To some, yachts seem The public sent pollution of the bays. can be a needs to learn that yachting help. It’s clean activity.” Cruisers can mentioned in the Seems like a reasonable request. If you can comply Thanks to Sharon McIntosh of the Yacht Services For more information visit said that his division, with advice from the national the from with advice his division, that said also a Mr. Jack is (of which Committee Yacht Steering to for a marina at proposals have looked member), facili- disposal dock and waste a fuel/water provide best to find the the entire coast are studying ties, and for environ- the least potential for yachts with location feel the deci- Although some interests mental damage. noted that is moving slowly, Mr. Wilson sion process the bays.” with that and can take the trouble to get there, and if natural beauty is more alluring to you than services, try cruising Tobago this summer. You might even take a buddy boat with you just for company. This Caribbean isn’t overcrowded yet. Association of Trinidad & Tobago, Candice Imam of the Tourism Development Company, and Avion Hercules of Tobago’s Division of Tourism for making my first visit to Tobago such an excellent one. www.boatersenterprise.com, www.doyleguides.com and www.visittobago.gov.tt. Some cruisers might also find the lack of yacht facil- We spoke about the possibility of future yacht facil- Although south of the usual path of hurricanes, the of hurricanes, usual path south of the Although In life in Tobago. part of daily is still And fishing while others see it as an increasingly rare “old Caribbean” attraction. ities a drawback. There is as yet no marina, not even a permanent dinghy dock (although one magically appears just for the regatta). Fuel and water must be jerry-jugged. ities in Tobago with the Hon. Neil Wilson, Secretary, and Norris Jack, Executive Advisor, of the Division of Tourism of the Tobago House of Assembly. Mr. Wilson island was hit in 1847 and 1963. was hit in 1847 island able to might not be coves, you the bays and many of of the you wish due to the activities anchor wherever annoyance, Some might find this an seine fishermen. …and notes that inside the harbor wall, Scarborough wall, the harbor inside that notes …and always comfortable. is nearly According to Doyle, ‘Englishman’s Bay makes According to Doyle, ‘Englishman’s a spectacular anchorage… the scenery here is gorgeous.’ Yacht count on May 13th, 2007: zero JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 GUATEMALA’S Part 3: Almost PerfectHurricaneHoles river linkingthe around theelegant85-foot-tallbridgethatspans are adinghyridedowntheriver.Mostnestled the treesaboveyourhead,someareintownand swimming pool,MonkeyBayoffersmonkeyswildin in pricefromUS$100to$250permonth.Someoffera Mayan ruins. veggies andeasyaccesstoancientspiritual tiny barswiththatchedroofs,stallsladenfresh small andintimatemarinas,inexpensiverestaurants, protected flatwaters,wherethereisroomtosail,16 how coolisthat?Itreallyapossibility.Nowadd hurricane season,inthetropicswithnobarnacles— Rio Dulceforexample,becausetherearenobarnacles. mutants musthaveevolved. stagnant) waters,somenew,colourfulandtasty pour intotheseprotected(andthereforemoreorless poisons, togetherwithalltheotherseasoningswe types ofanti-foulingtheyprefer.Giventhisvariety because barnacles,too,arepeopleandvaryinthe could probablyofferseveraldifferentexoticspecies is barnacleheaven.Bytheendofaday’sdivingI usually anchorourboatsinduringhurricaneseason boaters caughton.Thetepid,salty,primevalsoupwe and startaharvestingfrenzybeforealltheother straight forthenearest,average-type,hurricanehole and Iwantedtocashinonthefad,wouldhead very littlemoney.Butthat’sanotherarticle. hurricane hole;Iwaslookingfortheperfectboat anchor off. El Rellenoontheother.Or,ifyouprefer,can You cantakeyourpickofthelittlemarinas,varying Let yourimaginationrunriotforamomenthere.A I wouldn’ttryharvestinginafresh-wateranchorage,the If barnaclesbecamethelatestculinarydelicacy I foundthisonewithoutevenlooking.Well,notfora Phone: +(5999) 4658936 Fax: 4658941 Email: [email protected] New marinecenterpresentsthelatestDutchinnovationinboathandling equipment. Curaçao Marine pueblos by JuliaBartlett Hauling capacity45tonsandCatamarans upto33ftbeam. of Fronterasononeendand —Continued onnextpage —Continued Safe drystoragewith24hourssecurity We arelocatedinthesafeharbor ofWillemstad. AWLGRIP® indoorspraypainting and manyotherservices. - Long-termstorage. There isabusstationhereifyouwanttotravelinland Friendly, funkyFronterasisthemaindragforcruiserssummeringonRioDulce. RIO DULCE www.curacaomarine.com JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 Dugout and fold-up — different dinghies for different folks , told me it took their —Continued on next page Live Sea Lee El Canyon in turn gives way to El Golfete, a a spectacular gorge, El Canyon, carved out over a spectacular gorge, El Canyon, that Dave and millennia. It is so beautiful Leanne, on breath away. The walls are cliffs of white lime- stone rising dramatically to 350 feet, draped with exotic plants and vines that sweep down to the water’s edge where herons wade. Far above, hawks float dizzily in the up-drafts, watching and waiting. “After El Canyon, the river itself was almost a disappointment,” Dave said, looking appreciatively at the paradise around him. long narrow lake surrounded by wild jungle from which the cries of monkeys and squawks of parrots echo across the water. stuffed tiendas (cowboy) needs from vaquero The trip from the Gulf on Honduras through El Canyon and El Golfete to the Rio The trip from the Gulf on Honduras price of admission itself is worth the bar-crossing You have to earn the right to be in the Rio Once you pass the town of Livingston you enter Fronteras is a vibrant marketplace for produce Fronteras is a vibrant marketplace Dulce by crossing a sand bar with a five-foot controlling depth, from Bahia Amatique in the Gulf of Honduras. A calm sea and shallow-to- medium draft are requisites. Many boaters make use of a spring tide to carry them across. saddles to lariats. In between is everything else, including Internet cafés, local restaurants, stalls with colourful woven cloth, and the bus company office where you can buy a ticket to Guatemala City, a bargain at US$10 for the five-hour trip. with everything a —Continued page from previous from the surrounding area and JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 rare, crocodiles. an eyeopenforoccasional,althoughincreasingly The idealplaceforadip?Well,youstillhavetokeep pretty palm-thatchedroofspeekoutfromthejungle. be followedinadinghytosecludedlagoonswhere of liliesandhyacinthsdriftby.Thetributariescan mangrove andbuttressedtreetrunkswhereislands miles long,isfedbyintriguingtributarieslinedwith Golfete toLagoIzabal,thelargestlakeinGuatemala. frompreviouspage —Continued There areeventwohaul-outfacilitiesintheRioDulce. The river,aboutaquarterofmilewideandeight Then onandintotheRioDulce,whichconnectsEl ally highwaterthreetimesinthe15yearsshebeen Emy, on However, thehillsprotectedriverfromhighwinds. to escape,resultinginarecordrisethewaterlevel. water uptheriver,meetingrainwaterrunofftrying tions duetoHurricaneMitch.Astormsurgepushed 1998, waterrushedintotheriverfromopposingdirec- effects oftheoccasionalhurricane.Forexample,in ways inoperationandcanhandlecatamarans. Abel BoatHaulOut,SanFelipedeLaura,hasthreerail- tional traveliftandwillsoonhaveaPortSupplyoutlet. The still-under-constructionRamMarinehasaconven- The downsidesoftheRioDulce?Theydofeel ADL

‚ toldmethattherehasbeenexception- BARTLETT sleepy andlow-key.Somecruisersforgettoleave Many marinaoptionsontheRioDulcearesweetly there istoknow. rest oftheindex,you’llfindjustabouteverythingelse date informationontidesandcrossingthebar.In Site IndexandthentoBoatersInfoyouwillfindup-to- the RioDulceiswww.mayaparadise.com.Ifyougoto well swingbackinyourhammockandenjoyit. ing alostcauseinthisparadisesoyoumightjustas anchor getssuckeddownintothemud,you’dbefight- leave. Butwhywouldyou?Ifyouarethetypewhose Luperon intheDominicanRepublic. of themountains,asimilartopographicaleffectto there, butthattheydon’tgethurricanewindsbecause The bestwebsiteIfoundforall-roundinformationon The worstpartoftheRioDulcewouldbetryingto JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 111213141516 1054 17 1145 18 1232 (new) 19 1316 20 1357 21 1437 22 1517 23 1558 24 1642 25 1728 26 1817 27 1910 28 2004 29 2100 30 2155 31 2248 2340 0000 (full) 0029 0119 0208 NEW 63’ SAIL CAT SEATING FOR 90 PASSENGERS NEW 212223242526 1722 27 1804 28 1848 29 1936 30 2027 31 2122 August 2007 2218 1 2314 2 0000 (full) 3 0008 4 0100 56 0150 7 0238 8 0325 9 0414 10 0505 0559 0657 0758 0859 0958 JULY & AUGUST CATAMARANS • Available as single or double deck • Available as single 49 passengers, Base price $199,000 OF THE MOON

All new Offshore 53’ catamaran Twin diesel, AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY • Fast delivery • Twin Diesel - Base Price $299,000 • Fast delivery • Twin • 63 x 24 Power Cat USCG Stability test for 149 PAX • 63 x 24 Power Cat MERIDIAN PASSAGE MERIDIAN PASSAGE Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable tide will make your Crossing the channels between Caribbean islands with a favorable The tide starts running to Water, Don explains, generally tries to run toward the moon. Note: the maximum tide is 3 or 4 days after the new and full moons. For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts. passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy Don Street, author of passage faster and more comfortable. The table below, courtesy the time of the meridian Street’s Guides and compiler of Imray-Iolaire charts, which shows help you calculate the tides. passage (or zenith) of the moon for this and next month, will an hour after the moon the east soon after moonrise, continues to run east until about reaches its zenith (see TIME below) and then runs westward. From just after the moon’s setting to just after its nadir, the tide runs eastward; and from just after its nadir to soon after its rising, the tide runs westward. Times given are local. Fair tides! Call Ron Cooper (727) 367- 5004 • www.coopermarine.com July 2007 DATE123 TIME 456 0029 7 0124 8 0216 9 0306 10 0354 11 0441 12 0528 13 0617 14 0707 15 0805 16 0904 17 1007 18 1109 (new) 19 1209 20 1303 1353 1439 1521 1602 1641 , he “bor- stern rail. was scheduled Skybird Skybird’s stern for our arrival. Skybird by several hundred parrots. by Mary Robinson Skybird’s AM was at last lifted and slowly trun- had been covered with plastic sheet- Skybird Skybird in the boatyard. Final Caribbean Season: Caribbean Final began to look loved and cared for. We even found time to go Skybird progressed, a launching date was arranged. We counted the Skybird was laid up on the hard for the 2006 hurricane season in 2006 hurricane season on the hard for the was laid up Skybird

engine started on the button. Cooling water came through. We were afloat.

was filthy. Never had we seen her deck so dirty. Evidently the owner of the was filthy. Never had we seen her deck so dirty. Evidently

Next month: We bid adieu to the Grenadines. Weary and travel-worn, we arrived at last at Piarco airport. It was dusk. We Weary and travel-worn, we Skybird So we were only too glad when launching day dawned. Returning on board, we brewed up a jug of coffee and assessed the situation. Returning on board, we brewed up a jug of coffee and Work on One night, while still on the hard, we had gone to bed early with the intention Morning, in Chaguaramas, is heralded at 6:00 Morning, in Chaguaramas, A tall boarding ladder had been placed against A tall boarding ladder had

Down below, things were little better. The previous year we had hired a dehu- Down below, things were little better. The previous year smile of welcome from I went to the boatyard office where I was greeted by a beaming We began a massive clean-up operation and hired enough scaffolding for us to RETURNING TO RETURNING A LAID-UP BOAT A LAID-UP Skybird’s Between commissioning tasks, we found time to tour Trinidad’s wetlands Between commissioning tasks, we found time to tour Trinidad’s dled the full length of the boatyard to the launching dock. There she was gently low- ered into the water. The travel-hoist driver and his team were careful and efficient. Skybird’s Chaguaramas, Trinidad. Like thousands of other yachts of every conceivable nation- Chaguaramas, Trinidad. Like since April. Now it was November. al flag she had been there and Immigration together with our two specially made our way through Customs for yacht in transit”. These would have to be taken labelled packages: “boat parts Customs office in Chaguaramas. Our worries were “without delay” to a second taxi driver, a representative of Jesse James who spe- quickly alleviated by a smiling the yachting fraternity. We were promptly transported cialises in quality service to we where our imports were quickly cleared; thence to the yachting Customs office were taken straight to When his foot found no ladder rung in its customary position he was in danger of a very nasty fall but managed to pull himself back on board. The call of the toilet block was becoming urgent. How should he get down? He managed to lower himself down to a scaffold plank that was some six feet below the deck. to be the first vessel put in the water that day. But first scaffolding had to be taken down, and then another boat had to be moved before the travel hoist could reach us. It turned out that this vessel had acquired a bees’ nest under his radar; this had to be removed before his boat could be put into the slings. What with one thing and another, it took the whole morning before Skybird of work to be done in his next boat had commissioned a substantial amount an old sail around his work absence. The contractor, to do him justice, had draped to minimise flying debris. Additionally, on one of Jesse James’ sightseeing tours to the Trinidad wetlands. days in eager anticipation — what a delight it would be to have an operational toi- let on board once we were afloat. of being up at “Parrot Time” the following morning. The owner of a nearby vessel arrived late from the airport, and, seeing no sign of life on board rowed” our boarding ladder. It so happened that Alan experienced an urgent call to visit the toilet block before dawn. He stepped confidently over Their squawking reveille would arouse us every day for as long as we remained in arouse us every day for as long as we remained Their squawking reveille would We blinked our eyes and made our way up on deck Trinidad. It was “Parrot Time”. to the ground. Thence, we took our bearings and has- and down the tall stern ladder the occasional dollop of dog dirt that ignorant boat- tened to the toilet block, dodging to deposit. owners had allowed their pets We had left Glasgow some 24 hours earlier and had little, if any sleep during the 24 hours earlier and had little, if any sleep during We had left Glasgow some to meal in the boatyard’s restaurant and went straight journey; so we got a hasty leaving all problems to be solved in the morning. sleep on our rather damp berth, ing during her lay-up period; even so, her deck was thick with grinding dust and ing during her lay-up period; even so, her deck was a sort of mud. This lay so wood shavings. Driving rain had converted the dust into to sprout in the scuppers. thick on the deck that little green seedlings had begun ants. Ropes and canvas were green with mildew and alive with excessive drying of the inter- midifier but it had been so powerful that it had caused and paid the price in nal woodwork. This year we did without the dehumidifier dead on our berth; we never mildew. There was also a quantity of small bugs lying no evidence of cockroaches; did manage to identify them. But at least there was things could have been worse. tokens and arranged for water the ever-charming Charlene. I bought a quantity of laundry and electricity connections. As ever, the staff of PowerBoats were efficient and friendly. wash and polish the topsides and for my husband Alan to varnish the rubbing bands. Alan applied antifouling with rollers while I filled in any inaccessible corners with a brush. JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 Grand VivarilloCay. Nicaragua. Iwasverygladtomakeasafeharborat our rendezvouspointoftheVivarillosCays, kilometers. Ittook48hourstogo220kilometers storm conditions.Avoiddamageandfatigue. years. Don’tpresstheboat,yourself,oryourluckin reefed main,atacticthathasservedmewelloverthe to makewayinsuchachop,andhoveunder got tossedacrossthecockpitandbrokesomeribs. Panda 40,hadnodamage,butthe60-year-oldcaptain snapped offatthehull.Thethirdboat,aten-yearold stainless steelwhenits30-year-oldspaderudder 13-meter raceboatdiscoveredmetalfatigueinthe did thesmartthing:dropsailandmotorthroughit.A I callit. seas fromthreedirections.Washingmachineweather rainsqualls every20minutesandthree-metercross ly sailedintoit.Meantime,itwasaseriesof50-knot and itwascorrect—15hourslater,whenweactual- with noconvectionand15knotsofnortheastwind, report calledforanupperlevellowpressuresystem rity ofsailingwiththreeotherboats.Theweather second-hand weatherreportinordertohavethesecu- to Panama.Imadeamistakeandleftportbasedon Indians andagainstaknot-and-a-halfcurrentsouth formerly pirate-controlledstrongholdoftheMosquito around theeasternhookofNicaragua,through are noexception. one ortwowhowanttomakemischief,andwhales phins, butineventhebestgroupstherearealways phins isnotlikelookingintotheeyesofotheranimals. whale smile.Lookingintotheeyesofwhalesanddol- on theirsidetomakeeyecontactandgivemeabig pilot whales30centimetersfrommyhulllazilyturning the engineonandimmediatelyfull-poweredaway. turned inmydirection,itscaredmesobadly,Icranked at highspeed.Whenthecrazedanimalspottedme,and crazy, leaping,turningandzig-zaggingacrossthewater spotted akillerwhaletwokilometersaway,justgoing anything morefrighteninginthesea. the waybacktoaonemetergullet.Ican’timagine row afterofbrighteight-centimeterteeth,goingall employed bytheMiamiSeaquarium.AllIrememberis opened mouthofthekillerwhaleLolitawhileIwas it andswallowmewhole. threatening herbaby,shecouldrammyboatandsink telepathy becausesheconvincedmethatifIwas water andshookherhead“NO”.Maybeitwasmental whale stopped,gotherheadtwometersoutofthe ed tosailcloserforabetterlook,themamakiller circle, teachinghernewborntoswim.WhenIattempt- with blood. himself fromthereef,seaaroundhimdiscolored He wasthrashinghistailfuriouslytryingtodislodge aground onthecoralreefoffAndrosinBahamas. ters withtheseintelligentanimals.Likealargewhale ful eyes. with theirgrandsize,playfulnature,anddeepsoul- creatures ofthesea,theyaremostfascinating, exchanged stormstories.Thecaptainof and so sail theboatandhisladycrewcouldn’tmanagealone old mainsail whilereefing. lack ofsleepandput aone-metertearinmy15-year late seasonlowpressure system.Iwascarelessfrom swell andlowblack clouds announcedthearrivalofa moonlit sails. rience ofbrilliantlyclear,calmseasand reflectionsof never touchinghelmorengine,anunforgettable expe- and onenight.BothsteeredbyMonitor windvanes, sail alongsideher,only300metersaway, fortwodays The reefedsailsof jib, sincehewasn’tfitenoughtoreefsails inablow. dently putupapermanentlyreefedmain andworking 15 knots,calmseasandafullmoon:perfect conditions. brought usthewinterwindpatternofnortheast tento age peacefulandspearfishingexcellent.December1st weather andafullmoonforribstoheal. The Panda40, I didgetblowndownwindanddown-current40 Myself? Ina34-year-oldBristol35,Igaveuptrying Of thethreeboatswithme,a20-metermotorsailer It wasamixedbagofsailingoncruisefromRoatan I havenothingbutrespectforwhalesanddol- But mostofmywhaleencountershavebeenpleasant: Another scaryencounterwasoffRoatan,Honduras.I My closestencounterwasonemeterfromthefully Or afemalekillerwhale,swimmingin200-meter After cruising34years,I’vehadmanycloseencoun- I’ve alwaysgottenalongwellwithwhales.Ofallthe Sixty kilometersnorth ofProvidencia,abigeast The captainof It wasnoburden.Theislandlovely,theanchor- PRANKSTER PILOTS Oz sat therefortwoweekswaitingperfect Oz Oz Oz , wasthere.Iwentoverandwe still hadbrokenribssohepru- allowed myslowerBristol35to by Stephen“Nara”Bourassa Oz couldn’t with thesails luffing.Iwentinto thecockpittoreset my back oncourse. anything wrongand wentbelowwhentheboat course. Ipoppedmy headoutofthehatch,didn’tsee Monitor windvanewent crazyandtheboatwentoff stop. AfewminutesafterIwentbelow torest,the respectful tothem.Theydidn’twant the partyto hours offlat-outfun,Iwentbelowtorest. single-handers arealwayslackingsleep, soaftertwo eye. Theyhadmefascinatedforhours. But ofcourse close, turnontheirsideandlookmesoulfully inthe moves andTravoltapoint.Wehadawhale ofatime. so Icrankeditupfullblastandshowedthem mydisco ond! Iwasflatteredtheyenjoyedmymusicsomuch, right upnexttothespeakersofmystereo. come onebyamere12centimetersfrommyhull, and three-meterbabies,patientlywaitingtheirturnto Brown-skinned, five-toeightmetremomsanddads, went ondecktofindapodof20orsopilotwhales. I startedhearingclicksandwhistlesoverthemusic. ers todestroymygoodmood. Night Feverdancemoves. by discodancingTravolta-stylewithmanySaturday I turnedonsome1970’sdiscomusicandcelebrated Panama, Ipickedupafairone-totwo-knotcurrent. miles rollby—memoriesIwillkeepuntilmydyingday. ing ingentlewindsandseas,justwatchingthesea clearing someoffshorereefsbysunset.Uneventfulsail- Caribbean. ItwasperfectsailingpastSanAndres, most persistentandnastiestpiecesofwaterinthe avoid thelowpressuredomeoffCartagena,oneof fully sailedoutinperfectconditions. tle swells.Allstormsandbreakdownforgotten,Ijoy- behold, cleardryskies,northeastwind15knots,gen- a safeharbor.Thedayafterthestormwasjoyto extreme squalls. then hehadtoheave-toforabout36hoursdue Basically hesailedanother100kilometerssouthofme Oz’s wasn’t offshoreinsuchweather.Icouldlistento mainsail intothecabintorepairandthankedGodI thundered againstthereef. 30-knot rainsquallslashedmyboatandbigseas and risingwinds.Ispentapeacefulnightwhile20-to age, while north ofProvidenciainagoodreef-protectedanchor- and atornmainsail,Ioptedtoanchor14kilometers A fewminuteslater the boatwentwildlyoffcourse In hindsight,Iguessthisseemedunfriendly ordis- I putmyhandinthewaterandthey would come I expectedthemtobreakintodiscomovesanysec- I wasdownbelowdiscodancingtoloudmusicwhen That’s whentheprankstersshowedup,troublemak- Two hundredkilometerseastofBocasdelToro, I laidacoursesouthwestoftherhumblineinorderto So foronceImadeacorrectmoveandanchoredin The nextdaywasmoreofthesame,soItook With badweatherapproaching,36hoursofnosleep sailing reportsonSSBbutcouldn’ttalktohim. Oz bravely sailedon,intoominousskies His bestline was:“Animalsare peopletoo,youknow.” series MASH.Heplayed thepartofanaivefarmboy. the characterRadar O’ReillyontheAmericanTV only 12hoursbehind Panama, mymost fascinating landfalltodate,and beautiful KunaIndiansoftheSanBlas Islandsof like Irepresentedmyspeciesverywell. Maybe Iwasn’tplayfulenoughforthem. Idon’tfeel mischief elsewhere. sea soundsastheyswamoff,nodoubt lookingfor later theirclicksandwhistlesfadedinto alltheother leave. “Party’sover,folks.Timetogo!” Tenminutes ever, soIturnedoffthemusictoencourage themto the messagetohim. All Ihadtodowaswavetheboathookinairget if I’dgobelow.Minuteslaterhe’sinchingcloseragain. he movedofftwometersagainandwatchedmetosee splashed theboathookonsurfaceofsea,and a fewminutesandgentlyinchedhiswaycloser.I a confusedlookonhisface.Hewatchedmeshylyfor boat hook. gave himagoodhardpokewiththerubbertipof the paddleagain.Afterthreego-roundslikethisI course.” Hetookashortpauseandputhisnoseto ain’t doingnothing!” cent lookonhisface:“Whatareyoupokingmefor?I up laughingagain,becauseofthewoundedandinno- his headawayfromthepaddle.That’swhenIcracked too muchfuntolisten. on course.Iyelledathimtostopbuthewashaving vane, Ihadtokeepreadjustingmyruddergetback out ofahuman. quickly figureouthowtomakemischiefandgetarise ing thewaterpaddleofwindvanemove,could down onatwo-meterswell.Anycleverwhale,watch- sidering theboat’srolling,pitchingandridingup water paddleonmywindvane,anincrediblefeatcon- the whaleapplyingnothingbutgentlepressureto When Irecoveredfromlaughingcarefullywatched whales allseemedtohavebigsmirksontheirfaces. amused withhimself.Andtherestofpod the whalehadonhisface—soproud,cockyand side toside. nosing thewaterpaddleofwindvanegentlyfrom saw oneofthegranddaddywhalessteeringmyboatby again, sailsflogging.Whatthehell’sgoingonhere? went below.Momentslater,theboatwasoffcourse course andwindvane,didn’tseeanythingwrong Whenever Ithinkof this whaleencounterIthinkof Thirty-six hoursofperfectsailingbrought metothe After theydepartedIfeltsad,crueland unfriendly. I realizedcouldn’tstandananti-whalewatchfor- That gothisattention.Hemovedofftwometerswith “Get outofhere,”Isaid.“I’mtiredadjustingmy I gotoutmyfour-meterboathookandgentlypoked Although heneverdidanythingtodamagethewind- I fellintothecockpitlaughingbecauseoflook I leanedoverthetransomtoseewindvaneand Oz

. A. THODY A. JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 is smaller our 44-foot Scud, ] : “No definitive studies Aedes aegypti Compass MARTINIQUE BOATS FOR SALE www.acyachtbrokers.com E-mail: [email protected] Editor’s note: Mary Beth Ellison, MD, wrote in the Fortunately, Warren wasn’t alone. His traveling Warren wasn’t alone. His Fortunately, How Can You Protect Yourself? to prevent dengue, so There is no vaccine at present of a dengue outbreak, Cruisers may not be aware light-colored clothing • When going ashore, wear use insect repellent with • Also when going ashore, [ “[In] 2005 the CDC announced the licensing in the US • Stay anchored in breezy locations in harbors. • Sift through belongings onboard to shake out lin- • Screen your boat hatches, portholes and compan- • If you are chartering and only in the Caribbean for We’ve cruised the Caribbean for 20 years with rarely Last week, his e-mail informing us of his serious informing his e-mail Last week, Port de plaisance du MARIN A&C YACHT BROKERS catamaran, and were unable to help him. Did he know him. Did he unable to help and were catamaran, I hadn’t dangers of DHF, I wondered. the possible pure jelly. I My calm reserve turned to informed him. the cases of knowing that ten percent of grew frantic, DHF are fatal. area, rushed familiar with dengue in the companions, diagnosed clinic. Alert medical staff him to the local He was with previous signs of dengue. him with DHF, recover from with time to spare to well in no time, fatigue. you must take precautions. is black in color and can than most other mosquitoes, spots on its body and be distinguished by the white white rings on its legs. to make our way south for since we are often rushing not all Caribbean nations the hurricane season. Also, be delayed in reporting. report outbreaks, or they may sleeves. Mosquitoes are with full-length pant legs and and it makes mosquitoes attracted to dark clothing nearly invisible. children, don’t apply it to DEET on exposed skin. For wash off the DEET when cuts or small wounds, and adults, use 35 percent returning to your boat. For six to ten percent. You can DEET, and for children use or well-stocked large buy it in island hardware stores grocery stores. June 2005 issue of have been done regarding safety in children with DEET, so exercise caution when using this on them. DEET is toxic when ingested, can cause blistering in high con- centrations, and should never be used on open or abraded skin. Application to a child should be done by the parent, being careful to avoid the face, eyes, and mouth; it should never be used on infants. All users should wash their hands well following application, and avoid inhaling any preparations with DEET. of two “new” chemoprophylactics. One is Oil of Eucalyptus,… It has not been approved for children under three years of age, and its duration of efficacy is notably shorter than standard products. The other product is Picaridin, also known as KBR3023. This chemical has been used in Europe and Latin America for years, and has an efficacy similar to DEET. The new product marketed by Cutter is called Advance; the one used in Europe is known as Autan.” Especially, avoid anchoring in front of towns, where forgotten old tires, bottles, or containers of water are virtual party pools for breeding mozzies. gering mozzies that might have sneaked aboard. (I’ve discovered them many times, often never first hearing their ubiquitous whine.) ionway. You can buy one of those cool-looking mozzie nets for your berth that drapes like a tent across the mattress. They’re easy to install overhead. Better yet, don’t wait; throw one together yourself. Mozzie screen is sold by the meter in hardware stores. I hand-sewed mine, with bits of fabric lying around the boat and some Velcro, in a couple days. Some boutiques sell the lightweight mozzie nets for your berth. a brief time, report your recent return from the West Indies to your doctor, if you happen to fall ill back home. Medical staff can act quickly to avoid time-con- suming exams, and thus prevent possible advanced stages of dengue fever or DHF. any illness. Armed with information about dengue fever and DHF, I can continue exploring these gems for many years to come with pleasure, and most in the Caribbean, to studying and working in the in working and to studying Caribbean, in the Basin. Caribbean knees. me to our my husband and DHF sent bout with in on passage time, we were At the

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TT TT KK KK RR RR II II AA AA HH HH MM CC MM CC II II Full Service Station: BB BB Mobile: +696 29 28 12 Conveniently located at by Tina Dreffin - Grocery - Ice - Cigarettes - Cold Drinks - Fuel/Diesel/Gas - Laundry - Call Station Tel: +596 74 70 94 Fax: +596 7478 08 Tel: Open 7am to 7pm Sundays: 7am to 1pm - Breakfast (Coffee, Croissants) - Fishing Items What is DHF? Dengue is actually four viruses, not one, and once Once you’ve come down with dengue the first time, How do you know if you have DHF? Symptoms are: • bleeding from the mouth, nose, or gums, which • bruising, intense abdominal pain, and vomiting Without prompt treatment, you can go into dengue If you suspect you have any form of dengue fever, do The good news is: dengue fever and DHF are easi- Our sons slowly recovered from dengue fever, but • a rash of small red spots which appears three to three appears which red spots small rash of • a diag- an accurate can confirm blood test A simple Carenantilles Dockyard LE MARIN The virus-carrying Aedes aegypti mosquito has distinctive stripes on its legs you’ve recovered from one type, you are immune from that particular serotype only. Your resistance to the other serotypes is partial and transient. you are more susceptible to contracting DHF, dengue hemorrhagic fever, and the dangers can be greater from the secondary infection. With DHF, your immune system is suppressed. It can be potentially fatal, so drink, drink, drink, and get to a doctor quickly for a blood test. If fluid loss is not replaced, you can die from circulatory failure because of the collapse of blood vessels. can be a sign of internal bleeding from the blood ves- sel collapse; can occur, too. shock syndrome (DSS) or circulatory failure. not take aspirin. It can impair blood clotting. Take acetaminophen instead. ly treated in early stages by a doctor. Fluids are administered to replace lost fluids; transfusions to control bleeding. Warren, our youngest, later came down with the more serious stage, the horrifying DHF. In the intervening time, he’d grown from a young boy living on our boat four days after the onset of fever. after the onset four days for dengue, specific treatment but there is no nosis, vein treat possible fluids and to replace lost except hem- of dengue serious form from the more collapse char- (More on that later.) Recovery, orrhagic fever. a month. To fatigue, can take up to acterized by with your boat to a secluded anchorage recover, take projects. and rest. Forget those boat a stiff breeze, And stay social life a short break. Give your busy away from towns. . Sound like an alien . Sound

Aedes aegypti Aedes is a daytime biter living close to island is a daytime biter mosquito. It has bitten an infected per- Didier and Maria

Saturday by appointment

tel/fax: (596) 596 74 88 32 he beginning of summer brings blessed rainfall blessed brings of summer he beginning

to the Caribbean, a welcome gift to the abun- welcome gift Caribbean, a to the as can bring annoyances, but it dant flowers,

DENGUE FEVER DENGUE located at Carenantilles dockyard LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE e-mail: [email protected] Know Your Facts: Your Facts: Know Open Monday to Friday 8-12am 2-6pm Sails & Canvas (repairs & fabrication)

Voiles Assistance T We had just dropped the hook in soft sand, in the We had just dropped the hook Bright sunlight burst through the hatch the follow- Soon our sons’ fevers were followed by severe We made a bee-line to the emergency room, and the Don’t let my tale bring you despair. We all want to What is Dengue Fever? It is a viral disease transmitted by the infected • a sudden onset of high fever, headache, joint and • nausea or vomiting late afternoon, when our sons, Adam and Warren, late afternoon, when our after having been on pas- needed to stretch their legs starboard lay the perfect sage for most of the day. To boys: a long ribbon of setting for two rambunctious white sand fringed in mango trees, near a creek-bed. We set off immediately in the dinghy, and soon they were absorbed in their normal Huckleberry Finn style of play — exploring the tropical bush to create mock battles, imaginary hunts, or light sport. This day, their activity was to see who could land the most mangos for me, using pebbles collected from the nearby creek to knock fruit from the treetops. Little did I know how that choice of setting would turn our lives upside- down shortly thereafter. ing morning to announce the arrival of dawn, surpris- ing me awake. Odd — usually my husband Peter and I are awake early. This morning was altogether differ- ent. Both boys were limp in bed with high fevers. Since they had been fully immunized against tropical dis- eases like hepatitis A and B, typhoid, yellow fever and the tetanus-diphtheria/measles booster, we weren’t too worried. We assumed, wrongly, that they had the flu. Frequently, we’ve contracted viruses and bacterial illnesses from arriving tourists who swoop down for some good old-fashioned island cruising of their own. headaches and joint pain. Neither would eat. A rash appeared on their torsos with deep red splotches that I thought was prickly heat due to the high humidity. But when there was no improvement after three days, I became alarmed, considering for the first time that we were dealing with something far more serious. boys were diagnosed with dengue fever. I knew noth- ing about it! A simple blood test can tell you — request it. It was a month before our sons’ health returned and they resumed their normal activity level. continue cruising these island jewels of the Caribbean with peace of mind. Here’s what you need to know to arm yourself with accurate knowledge, and take prop- er precautions. Aedes aegypti muscle pains (hence its old name, “breakbone fever”) fell ill in peaceful Bequia. son, then you. It is usually a daytime biter, but can hide in clothes, behind curtains, or inside cupboards onboard your boat, coming out at night for a good feed. Symptoms include: well, such as well, such descending upon earth? Maybe not quite, but close. It quite, but close. Maybe not upon earth? descending species that invades common the most is a mosquito, dengue virus. and it transmits the our tranquillity, Aedes aegypti towns. So you can be bitten by an infected mosquito can be bitten by an infected towns. So you a leisure- the farmers market or during while hiking to or feel the You may never even see ly morning walk. children the case when both our young bite. Such was JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 23) TONGUE 22) TUT 21) TRANSOM 20) TRAVELING 16) TOP 15) TREASURE 13) TRAMMEL 12) TRAVADO 10) TODDY 9) TOPSAIL 8) TORE 7) TIRED 5) TORRENT 1) TRAWL ACROSS Crossword Solution tage asyounearyournextlandfall. will havesomecreativeideasthatworktoyouradvan- month. and don’tslipofftoleeward.Thingsmoveforwardnext business maygiveyoucauseforworry.Justkeepwayon will regret. keel whilethisaspectisineffect,lestyousaythings This aspectwilllastuntilthe5th.Somaintainaneven rough goinggettingyourideasacrosstomateorcrew. good time. on adaysailaroundthe10th.Andjustrelaxandhave mate orcrew. board andonclearingupanymisunderstandingswith source offrustration.Concentrateonrelationships sun shouldshinethroughafterthe15th. communicate yourcreativeideastocreworworkers.The on boardthatyou’vebeenlettingslide. skies afterthe15th. female creworcruisingcompanions,butyouwillseeclear this badweatherinthelastweek. with communicationsqualls.Youwillgetabreakfrom upsurge ofenergybyplanningsomenewonboardprojects. 10th. Therestofthemonthisaspectfree,soprepareforan rough seasonthe25th. related projectsyou’vebeenconsidering.Businessmayhit understood willsetyourcreativesailsabackuntilthe23rd. This willbeatimeofclearskiesandsmoothsailing.You It willbeslowsailingasfarworkisconcernedand You willhavemanychallengesonboardandfindit You’ll findclearsailingthismonth.Takeafewfriends Whatever projectsyouattempttolaunchnowwillbea There maybecloudsoverheadaffectingyourabilityto This monthwillbeagoodtimetoworkonthoserepairs Your businessmaysufferafewmoredaysofraindueto Any creativeventuresyoulaunchthismonthwillmeet Your senseofhumormayreachalowebbaroundthe This monthwillbeagoodoneforworkingonanyboat- “Does anybodyreadme?”Problemsmakingyourself JULY 2007 SAGITTARIUS (23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN (22Dec-20Jan) QAIS(21Jan-19Feb) AQUARIUS SCORPIO (24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS (21Apr-21May) GEMINI (22May-21Jun) CANCER (22Jun-23Jul) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) VIRGO (24Aug-23Sep) ARIES (21Mar-20Apr) LIBRA (24Sep-23Oct) 11) TOGS 10) TRANSPORT 8) TOO 7) TOLL 6) TRAVERSE 5) TROD 4) TRANSFER 3) TEMP 2) TOE 1) TRANSIT DOWN 27) TEAR 26) TONNAGE 25) TOR LEO (24Jul-23Aug) 24) TAR 23) TONE 21) TURNS 20) TINKER 19) TON 18) TINGLES 17) TENOR 16) TO 15) TORNADO 14) TOGGLE The ColorsofBliss In timetocolormyblissfuldreams Are companionstothemoon’ssilveryorb The twinklingdiamondsofthetropicalnightsky Quickly theheavensturnavelvetyblack A quickkiss,theinfamousgreenflash! That great,warmballretreats,leavingbehind Air perfectlyclear,notacloudtoblockitsdescent Oranges, redsandburgundyshadesspreadacrossthewesternvista And thesunsinkslowinresponse Then atday’sendthehorizonbeckons Leaping andfrolickingabovebelowthesurface Bring forththegrayish-blueporpoisesandsilveryflyingfish Darkening tomidnightblueoutofsightanyland Still closertotheequator,alltonesofturquoiseandteal Bliss isnowcoursingthroughmyveins Jet blackfrigatebirdsandbrownpelicanssoaringdiving Grey gulls,brownboobies,snow-whitetropicbirdswiththeirlong,flowingtails Dawns ofmauvesandpinksstreakacrossthesouthernskies Caribbean shadesnocrayoncomesclosetoimitating From paletovividastheseadeepened Paint-box colorscometolife Aquamarine blueswerecommon Yellow-green palmtreesswayingonpinkish-huedbeaches The colorsofmyworldwerechangedforever Where watersturnedfromdarkblue-greentoswimming-poolblue A placewhereseasonschangedbutyoucouldn’ttellwithoutacalendar But southerlyclimeswhispered,warmtradewindscalled I thoughtthatwasbliss Or ahornmarksitspassage A passingvesselisonlyagreendotonradarscreen And pewterfogcanhideyourhandsbeforeface Summer breezescanturnquicklytowhite-outsqualls Feeling thesought-afterfreedomofsea Pallid bodiesareturnedtanunderwind-filledsails Waters adarkgreenish-brown Blue skiesandgreat,fluffywhiteclouds Then it’ssailingoutpastthejetties Getting theboatintowateraftercoldwhitewinter By thetimesummerarrivesthere’smuchtodo New Englandsummersweretooshortforme Dolly’s Answer )MANGROVE Topic: FISH FARM RAISING ANTIBIOTIC 8) FRIENDLY 7) HEALTHY 6) SEAFOOD 5) INFECTION 4) FERTILIZER 3) 2) 1) Island Poets — SandiPomeroy Help measIpledgetokeepthesealitterfree Let usworktogethertocareforthesea With themarinelifegone,where’sincomeforliving? When welitter,marinelifekilling So stopallthelittering Many usetheseatoearnaliving Swimming, sportingactivitiesanditalsosupportsus. The seahassomanypurposes What willourpeopleenjoy? When wedestroythemarinelife Because itwillaffectallcreaturesfromAtoZ! Don’t throwplasticsinthesea Help keepthesealitter-free We needtocareforthesea CARE FORTHESEA www.caribbeancompass.com Caribbean Compass — DillonOllivierre

On-line ISABELLE DYER ISABELLE JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37 Solution on page 36 — ‘4 O’Clock T’ O’Clock ‘4 scarphed end of another The Nautical Alphabet: Alphabet: Nautical The ACROSS a drag net 1) Iron head of 5) Heavy flood 7) Fatigued of 27 Across 8) Past tense above deck 9) Second sail or hot rum drink 10) Palm juice sky 12) Black squall in a clear 13) Cod net 15) Pirate’s booty 16) ‘___ o’ the morning!’ 20) Type of movable backstays ship 21) Planks forming stern of name 22) Boy pharaoh; also a ship’s made to fit into the 23) Long, tapered piece of timber 25) Pinnacle 26) Cargo ships carrying capacity 27) Rip DOWN across the meridian 1) Passage of a celestial body 2) ‘____ the line’ 3) Short for impermanent 4) Change of ownership 5) Walked 6) ______sailing; tacking to windward, for example 7) Fee 8) Also 10) Carry 11) Clothes (slang) 14) Wooden pin or button 15) Whirlwind 16) __ and fro 17) Irish sailor’s vocal range? 18) Thrills 19) A short one is 2,000 pounds 20) Class of sailing dinghy 21) Changes course 23) Quality of sound 24) Pine sap residue used to paint standing rigging On-line! 14 Caribbean Compass 2007 27 © 17 18 17 rossword 23 C 13 Caribbean Compass Caribbean [email protected] 11 ruising ruising 24 25 9 19` 20 C www.caribbeancompass.com 5 7 6 15 8 26

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C parlumps marooned JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2007 © and Venezuela.Carlosatbesidehersmiled. across thebluewatersofGulfbetweenTrinidad off. Insteadshesatdownonalowrockandlookedout ther. Shewouldn’tgoanywherenearthatawfuldrop- to thetopofvillage.Buthere,Pruecouldgonofar- fence. Pruetookhishandandtheywalkedalltheway touched thegroundinhishastetogetaround book ofinvitationsintothatoneword.Hisfeethardly narily hewouldneverhavedreamtofbeingsoforward. ing awalkupthehillwithme?” attractive way. smiled athimandhercheeksdimpledinthemost of thepalingshelookedintoPrue’sprettyface.She across tothefence,thenputtinghisarmsontop appeared atthedoor.Hewalkeddownpathand young maninsideanditwasn’tlongbeforehe the oldwoodenfenceandconcentratedhardon new familyhadmovedin.Shestoodleaningagainst “Go!” Sheshoutedandpointedtothedoor. of fallingovertheedge.SendSueorLue.” to pushhimoff!” rocky cliff?Well,whileheisstillentrancedIwantyou the placeImean,whereroadendsinasteep, and takehimtotheverytopofvillage.Youknow door andIwantyoutoweavethespellI’vetaught handsome youngmanhasmovedintothehousenext last chance,girl.” have alwaysbeensuccessfulDiablesses.Thisisyour you upinthetraditionsofourfamilywhosewomen “Look heremygirl,you’dbettershapeup.I’vebrought death. Yes,PruewasasorryspecimenofDiablesse. what wasworse,cliffedgesfrightenedherhalfto and pushthemoff.ButnotPrue.Pruehatedit.And job ofLaDiablesseistoenticeyoungmencliffedges foot andhowcanyoudancewiththat?Butthenthe you mayneverseeit,oneoftheirfeetisreallyacow’s because theyhaveaclovenfoot.That’sright,although In fact,Diablessesactuallyhateallmusicanddancing of thesteelbandthatcarriedonwinduphill. erations, sononeofthemappreciatedthesweetnotes and sowereallthewomenofthatfamily,backforgen- Antigone wasaDiablesseandsowereherdaughters daughters, Sue,LueandPrue,lived.Now,Mistress it’s whereMistressAntigoneandherthreepretty roads. Laventilleisalsothehomeofsteelbandand up therehavesimplecottagesbuiltalongnarrow above PortofSpain,butnotabitit.Infactmostfolk want toliveonthebreezyhillsideofLaventillehigh “Yes,” wasallthatPruesaidbutCarloreadawhole Carlo wasdefinitelyunderPrue’sspellbecauseordi- “Hello,” hesaid,“myname’sCarlo.Howabouttak- Prue walkedslowlytothehousenextdoorwhere Mistress Antigonepulledherfaceintoanastyscowl, “But Ma,I’mfrightenedofgoingupthere!scared Prue hungherheadbutmothercontinued,“A One dayMistressAntigonegavePruethiswarning: You wouldthinkthateveryoneinTrinidad confined incages,they donothavesomuchroomtomovethey oftenscratchand farmers whichcause concern. from commercialaquaculture. However,therearemanyproblems facedbyfish made ofwireandmooredoffshore.When grown, thefishcanbeharvestedandsold. specially builthatcheriesand,astheygrow, theyaremovedtolargerpens,usually public demandforseafoodhasledtoaboom infishfarming.Babyareborn lem findingsuitableplantfoodforthemand theirwastescouldbeusedasfertilizer. environmentally friendly.Thefishraisedwere notcarnivoroussotherewasnoprob- fish suchascarpandtilapiawereused and thetraditionalmethodswereusually eral differenttypesoffishwereraisedin ponds andtanks.Atfirst,onlyfreshwater ancient methodoffishproduction.Intime, thepracticespreadtoEuropeandsev- numbers. Onesuchwayalreadybeingtriedis and sustainthefishstocksthatwealreadyhavefindwaysofincreasingtheir year 2048.Ofcourse,wedon’twantthistohappen!Sowillhavemanage DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS Marine fishinthewild travelgreatdistancesthroughtheoceans. Whentheyare A largepercentageof theseafoodeateneveryyear(over25 percent)comes Raising seawaterfishinfarms( Aquaculture wasusedinChinaafewthousand yearsagosoitreallyisan Some scientistspredictthattheglobalfishingindustrywillcollapseby

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let meshowyou.” now becauseI’llteachyoutodanceinnotime.Here, in theworldtofix.“Well,youcanstopfrettingright and Iwanttohavefunlikeeveryoneelse.” young man. What’s thetrouble?” by liftingithigherthantheotherandtokeepoutof wrong withmyleftfootandit’stooheavy.” wailed, “Ican’tdance!Ireallycan’t!havesomething wasn’t easy.Pruehadstumbledaboutuntilshe rest comeseasy.” arm. “First,youmustlearnthebasicstepsand Prue’s handandthenencircledherwaistwithhis with admiration. and didallsortsofcleverstepsthatleftPruegasping around, twirled,swayedhiships,shuffledfeet, moved hisbodyrhythmicallytothebeat.Hespun

i Carlo laughed.Hethoughtthatwastheeasiestthing “Oh Carlo,”sheansweredtearfully,“Ican’tdance Prue couldn’tresistconfidinginsuchahandsome “For abeautifulgirlyoudon’tlookatallhappy. So Carlohelpedhertocompensatefortheheavyfoot That afternoonCarlotaughtPruethewaltz.Butit “There! Now,standupandfollowme.”Hetook Carlo sprangupandhummingthelatestcalypsohe

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e a Learns . by LeeKessell spell outthismonth’stopic. way tohelpconservewildstocksintheworld’soceans. against stormsandseaactionsotheirremovalmaycausetroubleinthefuture. like mangrovehasbeencutdownforspace.Mangrovesareanaturalprotection produced. Thefarmsareclosetoshoresothereisaproblemifnaturalvegetation of shellfishsuchasoystersandmussels,forexample,wellshrimpsarealso water iscleanandwell-oxygenated. closely monitored.Waterqualitymustalsobemonitoredtomakesurethatthe and uneatenfood—hasthepotentialtodamageenvironmentsomustbe Taking thesesmallfishalsodisruptsthemarinefoodchain. system whereyouhavetotakemorefromtheseathanproduceinafarm. needed tofeedthefarmedfishbutit’sobviousthatoceanscannotsustaina keep thefishhealthy.There’salotofdisagreementoverhowmuchwildis fish thathumansdon’teat.Themealmaycontainchemicalsandantibioticsto which canbepassedonfromfishtointheirsmallenclosuresarealsoproblems. eat awayatthefleshoffishcausingscalelossandsores.Diseaseinfections hurt themselvesagainstthecagewire.Parasitescalledsealiceareverycommon.These )IGSR______VOGRAMEN INGASIR 8) TIBICATION 7) DRILFYEN 6) THEYLAH 5) AFODOSE 4) TONIFINCE 3) FRIZILTREE 2) 1) Unscramble thesewordsfromthepassage. Thefirstlettersofthewordswill WORD PUZZLE Despite allthedifficultiesthough,well-managedaquaculturemaybeone Fish arenottheonlymarinecreaturesthatfarmed.Manydifferentkinds The pollutionfromthewastesofcagedfish—suchasbodyexcrement Many farmedfisharecarnivorousandfedwithmealmadefromsmall — Answersonpage 36 Carlo fromthecliffedgeandaverystickyend! new lifethatbeganthenightshedreamedofsaving Trinidad. AndasforPrue,itwasthebeginningofa greatest danceteacherthateverlivedandbreathedin Prue toteachTHEMdancelikethestars. more, MistressAntigoneandSueLueallbegged gotten inthedancehistoryofTrinidad.Andwhat’s with aheavyclovenhoof,toDANCE!” I lovehimtrulyandhehastaughtme,aDiablesse me, Ibegthisonerequestofyou.MUSTsaveCarlo. her heart.“Please,allDiablesseswhohavegonebefore magical powersintoatightlittleknotinthecentreof because Carlodancedasifhehadwingsonhisfeet. solo theaudiencecheeredandclappedasneverbefore head overheelsinlovewithher. the prettiestyounggirlinallofTrinidadandCarlowas cleverly tiedintoalittlehatwithpeaks.Pruelooked On herplaitedhairsheworeamatchingfabricscarf frills andribbonsasilkscarfoverhershoulders. hem, anoverskirtofrosyfabric,awhiteblousewith erations: alongwhitepetticoatwithlacefrillsatthe traditional costumethattheCreoleshadwornforgen- Antigone hadmadeforherschoolconcert.Itwasthe Carlo. ShewaswearingthefolkdressthatMistress chance ofsavingCarlofromthecliffedge,thiswasit. to bemydancingpartnerinSaturday’scontest!” him whenhesuddenlyannounced,“Prue,Iwantyou into Carlo’sheadthenextafternoon.Itsurprisedeven then shehadthisbrilliantideaandwouldputit that nightworryingaboutthefateofpoorCarloand dance competitionthatveryweekend.Pruelayinbed he knew.Healsotoldherthatwasenteringthebig end oftheroadandCarlotaughtPruealldances you aweekandthenmustpushhimoffthecliff.” play withhimforalittlewhile,”Prueanswered. Antigone asked,“Well?” “See youtomorrow!” behind her.Astheyreachedhisgatehecalledout, she ranoffdowntheroadwithCarlopanting pulled herselfawayfromCarloandcried, was sinkinginaredballdownintothesea,Prue the way.Atlast,Pruecoulddancebutjustassun THE END And thatwasthebeginningofCarlo’scareeras “I can’tteachyou,”Pruelaughed,“butCARLOCAN!” Well, itwasanafternoonthatnevertobefor- Next camethecouples.Prueconcentratedallher The dancehallwaspackedandwhenCarlodancedhis Saturday afternooncamearoundandPruemet “Yes,” Prueagreedandsheknewthatifhada “We’re suretowin,Prue,andwe’llbestars!” Prue smiledaslysmile. The nextafternoonPrueandCarloreturnedtothe Mistress Antigonesmiled.“Verygood,mygirl.I’llgive “I’ve wovenmyspellasyoutoldmetobutIwant As soonasPruewalkedintothehouse,Mistress “Oh, howlateitis,I’vegottogethomeNOW!”And JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 , by Juliet Barclay with Barclay Juliet , by Miri and the Magic Door the Magic and Miri All of these books are available at bookstores or from A little girl of Havana steps though a magic door — one a magic door — steps though girl of Havana A little and the is imaginative and engaging, The story line wall is an ancient door And there in a before. knows there was no door in a place Miri rusty, it’s painted pale blue. Its hinges are open and Miri steps through.… It slowly groans in white tuberoses. Gentlemen’s noses Water in pails. Rigging and sails. Clanging of bells. Very strong smells. This would be a wonderful book to read aloud. The author, a writer, photographer and graphic The technically accomplished artwork might be www.macmillan-caribbean.com. illustrations by Xiomara Sera, ©2007. Published by Published Sera, ©2007. by Xiomara illustrations illus- 56 pages, color Hardback, Caribbean. Macmillan £8.25. ISBN 978-1-4050-6891-8. throughout. trations pirates. into the era of — and right there before that wasn’t is fun: rhymed writing design manager, lives in Havana with her daughter and has worked on both sides of the Atlantic for the Office of the City Historian of Havana. somewhat dark for many children’s tastes, but is sure to be admired by adults. , by Peter Laurie with , by Peter Laurie

Another tale with an animal hero, this third in a series an animal hero, this third Another tale with The cheery illustrations, by a Barbadian artist, are by a Barbadian The cheery illustrations, the Hurricane Mauby and Mauby effects many exciting rescues and eventually saves all the farm animals from the violence of the storm — and from the icky bats and dung beetles, too. illustrations by H. Ann Dodson, ©2007. Published by H. Ann Dodson, ©2007. illustrations by color illus- Hardback, 56 pages, Macmillan Caribbean. £8.25. ISBN 978-1-4050-7718-7. trations throughout. cat is writ- the adventures of a Caribbean of books about farm older children. Mauby, a Caribbean ten for slightly when a hurricane threat- cat, is getting fat and lazy. But are away, it’s up to her ens the farm while the humans the other animals. Once to use all her feline wits to save survival instincts. With a more, she has to draw on her and her wild friends like little help from Bongo the dog the crab and the tortoise, the mongoose, the monkeys, ily all learn to cope with this unusual stranger who stranger unusual this with to cope learn ily all of pleasing parable midst is a lives in their suddenly the personable ending, in which The inclusiveness. of the a variation mascot, is a school bird becomes can I me home — “He followed children’s line, classic keep him?” a toucan’s beak. as colorful as , by Nancy Rogers , by Nancy

Wee Crew Wee

Any young child who has tried to puzzle out life in Trying to find his way in these new circumstances, Constantine Goes to School Constantine for the for

suddenly strange surroundings will identify with Constantine, a toucan who flies ashore in Barbados from a ship. The bird is looking for green trees and grass, more natural to him than shipboard life, but he finds himself not in the jungle but in a very human community. he gets into some trouble — and so do his new human friends, the schoolboys Neville and Tom. What to do? How the children and their teachers, friends and fam- Three New New Three Yaeger with illustrations by Bill Grace, © 2006. illustrations by Bill Grace, Yaeger with 64 Macmillan Caribbean. Hardback, Published by 1-4050- illustrations throughout. ISBN pages, color 5714-9. £8.00 JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 Port dePlaisance97290,LeMarin ✽ Doyle Barefoot-theonlysailrepair loft ✽ email: [email protected] leLgo,S.Vincent&theGrenadines Blue Lagoon,St. Surfshop -WatersportsCentreBoutique Facility forVisiting Yachtsmen Internet Café-Faxandweather service Internet Bareboat &CrewedCharters e:(8)4692 Fx (784) 456-9238 Fax: (784)456-9526 Tel: & SafetyEquipment t Vincent’sBestFullService St. St. Vincent-professionalsail,bimini ✽ http://www.barefootyachts.com & dodgerrepairsatgreatprices Spare partsordering E-mail: [email protected] All theSupplies, ✽ Restaurant, Bar,dinghydock for yourBoat ASA SailingSchool ✽ Fax: +596748539 Tel: +596748755 Raymarine Electronics Chandlery ✽ Yacht Charters Barefoot PADI DiveShop Open 7/7 & MarineCentre if youbringthisad! ARC participants

10% rebatefor MARTINIQUE ✽ Apartment in presented. Thecolorreproductionisgood. photos arewellselected,widelyvariousandnicely The workofmanyphotographersisrepresented. plethora ofpictures(over250)speakforthemselves. Capital ofParadise—Clean,GreenandSerene any goodcoffeetablebookshould— commissioned locally,agoodidea.Butmainly—as tion andabriefhistory.Theeditorialmaterialwas Publications offerssomebasicfacts,usefulinforma- the TobagoHouseofAssemblyandHansib ant collaborationbetweentheTourismDepartmentof rate publicationforTobagowasrequired.Theresult- Tobago, TerrificandTranquil, multiple printings. agencies. Anumberhavehad missioned byofficialtourism these bookshavebeencom- the variousnations,manyof tourism-promotion mottoesof the titles,whichreflect As mightbesurmisedfrom Tobago, TerrificandTranquil Beautiful; Guyana; St.Lucia,Simply Spice IslandoftheCaribbean; Carriacou, PetiteMartinique, Caribbean; Grenada, Dominica, NatureIslandofthe Beyond YourImagination; Paradise; Barbados;Just Barbuda, ALittleBitof Wrapped inBlue;Antigua& includes books” abouttheCaribbean photo-rich “coffeetable people inBritain. experience ofethnicminority ment andprospects,the world, theirhistory,develop- and peoplesaroundthe books aboutmanycountries catalogue presentsoriginal hundred books.TheHansib lished approximatelyone 1980s, thecompanyhaspub- ing WestIndiancommunity. publishing forBritain’sgrow- magazine andnewspaper the 1970swasinvolvedin Indian Digest the monthlymagazine year, thecompanylaunched 1970 byArifAli.Thefollowing Publications wasfoundedin Kingdom. Hansib publishing intheUnited established visibleminority acknowledged ashaving a publishinghousethatis Caribbean-related titlesfrom US$36/£20. photographs throughout.ISBN1-870518-97-7. Publications Ltd.©2005.Hardback,168pages,color and Serene Following thepublication,in2000,of Hansib Publications’listof Since thebeginningof This isoneofthe Tobago, TheCapitalofParadise—Clean,Green TREATMENT FOR TOBAGO Anguilla, Tranquillity and , editedbyHanifAli.PublishedHansib and throughout

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The opening story, “Mas is The opening story, “Mas Monty checked the bills in his moving lives of his protagonists. is one More than a Creole Thing”, as of adversity and triumph strives Bhim, a wiry cane-cutter, Band to become a King of the during Carnival. He is universal- back- ly rejected because of his Monty, ground until he comes to the six a bandleader in need of thousand dollars Bhim produces from a grimy pocket as a 50-per- the cent deposit to purchase towering costume. Bhim argues persuasively, “Boss, Chutney is the thing now, so leh me give it a try. Mas is more than a creole thing now, time change. Chutney have power.” hand then stared at Bhim’s face. He was overwhelmed by the inter- est, by the enthusiasm of this boy from Bustahall. He pushed Bhim under the light and examined his lean, willowy frame and powerful neck, which had escaped his first glance. When he shook Bhim’s hands, Monty felt the rough touch of the labourer. He took the youth out of the compound into the back room, where the imposing costume stood mounted on a stand, daz- zling and magnificent. Bhim’s eyes brightened, and a great feeling of

by Willi Chen, Macmillan Caribbean, ©2006, by Willi Chen, Potpourri Rural Trinidad Rural Chutney Power and Other Stories, Chutney Power Willi Chen’s stories of Trinidad’s rural East Indian culture are disarmingly short Willi Chen’s stories of Trinidad’s mas, but not be King, as Monty’s friend Alexander advises him to let Bhim play under the heavy cos- Monty’s faith in Bhim is rewarded as Bhim’s performance Roopchand has saved and In “The Bottle-Washer who Nearly Danced”, Prakash numb feeling. He felt ostra- Prakash could not think, he could not see and he had a In “Chanka’s Backpay”, the hero, a cane-cutter of prodigious stamina, is given the But Chanka kept his head on and spat out most of the contents of his mouth into the Night falls, and after Ah Ping’s closes Chanka passes out. His pay envelope is lift- In another story, “Secret Love”, a village lothario’s unnatural death is mourned by In any group of stories there are some that resonate more than others, but on the BOOK REVIEW BY BOB BERLINGHOF BOB BY REVIEW BOOK and sweet, whether he is writing about thieves, good neighbors, murderers or run- and sweet, whether he is writing a humour, violence, sex and death, all the makings for away pigs. There is pathos, Trini reality. Mr. Chen himself is a modern Renaissance potpourri of “curry mouth” he set and building designer, playwright and poet, and man — a painter, sculptor, There are nearly equal parts of charm and brutal- knows his characters intimately. make the reader feel right at home in the strange and ity, generosity and greed, to him. Alexander is also the notion of an East Indian as King of the Band offends have climbed the econom- somewhat jealous since many of his Indian school mates of cash Bhim so easily part- ic ladder ahead of him, and he is irked by the amount Alex… Remember, Carnival is ed with. Monty answers, “Anybody could play King, slavery and white masters. bacchanal and it past creole t’ing now. Don’ think about Let the world see and hear us. Them times gone… now is steelband, iron, and tassa. This is a national festival.” tume is worthy of Carnival King. to a local dance. But for borrowed enough money to take provocative Beulah Payne that don’t fit, Beulah only all his preparations, including borrowing two-toned shoes arduous walk to the com- has eyes for a rich boy, Andy Coleman. After a long and they even get to dance. munity centre, she spies Andy and ditches Prakash before But in his mind he was cized and foolish. This dougla behaving real bad, he thought. branches, into darkness, counting unwashed bottles… He walked under heavy amidst the symphony of croaking crapauds, back to Caratal. Back to the bottle wash- ing that he could do so well. princely sum of $3,800 as back pay, and his two best friends decide they must get monumentally drunk together at Ah Ping’s rumshop, their usual haunt. Chanka’s daughter comes to remind him, “Ma say to come home. It have plenty to buy. Come now, the man bring the furniture and he want pay.” It is nearly Christmas Day. Chanka dismisses her and, as his friends ply him with sugarcane brandy, the read- er gets more and more uneasy. spittoon and in the urinal, each time he went to the rear. He complained of his cough and a dizziness brought on by the drinks. ed by Ramsook and Bachan, but Chanka returns home and with a glint in his eye, pulls out the money from under his bicycle seat. “‘Ram and Bachan gone with two stale sada roti. Let them eat that for Christmas. And is pepper for so,’ he added with a smile.” many women, but few men. The ending is too shocking to be revealed, but on reflec- tion it makes a great deal of sense given the conservative values of the community. There is heartbreak and pathos galore in the story of a girl who can’t get married because the odiferous ram goat offered by the groom’s rich family is deemed an unworthy swap. And in “No Ham for Christmas” a young boy discovers that his poverty will not be relieved for even one day. whole this collection gives a wonderful feel for the downtrodden in rural Trinidad of a generation ago. The six-page glossary of Trini and Indian slang is essential and was a welcome inclusion. Kudos to Willi Chen. ISBN 13: 978-1-4050-2973-5, 162 pages, with six-page glossary. 162 pages, ISBN 13: 978-1-4050-2973-5, on in silent relish. power and hope coursed through his body. Monty looked JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 over tootherboatshelppullpeopleupmasts, handle. Youcanuseitonanywinchandeventake only tobetoldtheyhadnotyetseentheproduct. tors ayearagotoseeiftheycouldgivedemonstration, they reallyworked.Ievenwentintooneofthedistribu- seen theseadvertisedfromtimetoandwonderedif down, analternativecameup:TheWinchBuddy.Ihad tric motorthatisgoingtohelpyoucrankinarope. something likehalfthepriceofanewcarfortinyelec- can affordone,itseemssomehowimmoraltopayout offer service.Thenyoulookatthepricetag.Evenif the ticket:quiet,undemanding,alwaysathandreadyto about isbuyinganelectricwinch.Thiswouldseemtobe to find,tolerateandmaintain.Sothenextthingwethink But that’snoteasyforasingle-handedoldcurmudgeon tage doesn’tseemaspowerfulitusedto. of manyus“boomers”,eventhatmechanicaladvan- can tamethatcrazygenoa.Thetroubleis,attheage tremendous mechanicaladvantage,whichiswhywe The WinchBuddyisabasicallyrechargeablewinch While Iwaswaitingformysensibilitiestosimmer We begintothinkabouthiringamuscularyoungcrew. Winches arewonderfulthings—theygiveus Getting toKnow My NewBuddy PRODUCT REVIEWBYCHRISDOYLE your winch—whichyouwillneedtodoonhardtasks. a switchyoucangofromhighspeedtolowon winch isreversible,whichmeanswithasimpleflickof electric winch(importantforusmultihullers).The to about16,whichishalftheweightofasinglefixed pounds, thenthechargerandotherbitsbringitup ing bag.TheactualWinchBuddyweighsabout11 protect yourvarnish.Italsocomeswithagoodcarry- that willhelpprotectthewinchand,moreimportantly, a one-hourcharger.Inaddition,ithasneoprenecoat out ofstainlesssteel.Itcomeswithasinglebatteryand rechargeable drill.Thewinchbitisnicelyengineered sional, 28-volt,top-quality,Milwaukeeright-angle any. Thebasicbrawnisprovidedbyagiant,profes- instructions, butitissimpleenoughyoubarelyneed was delighted.Itcameinabigboxwithvirtuallyno Winch Buddyguys,offeringtosendmeonetry.I Maogany, hegotamessagefromDavidandLarry,The time? Isitconvenienttouse? does itreallywork?Doyouhavetorechargeallthe winch, sothequestionsthatcametomymindwere: etcetera. Itcostsasmallfractionofqualityelectric While IwasintheSainteswithYvesCohenat not thegal!) of course,thegizmo, the crew’.(Hemeans, excellent additionto sea trialshefound‘an awkward, butafter may lookalittle Chris’s newfriend al infusionofjuice;anexcellentadditiontothecrew. “grunt” outofsailing,anditneedsonlytheoccasion- down belowandjustbringitoutwhenyouneedit. hoisting sails,itwillbereasonablyconvenienttokeep furling thejib,gettingyourpartnerupmast,and ly tuckupunderaspraydodger.Ifyouwantitmorefor store it.Ithinkonmanymonohullsitwouldconvenient- use, thenyouwouldneedsomewheredryandhandyto ing insailswhileshort-tackingtowindwardisamajor probably robustenoughtoacceptsomeabuse.Ifcrank- Buddy easier,itisnotessentialifspaceaproblem. handle makesbothpickingupandusingtheWinch set at90degreesononeside.Althoughthissteadying ed steadyinghandleinplace,whichisa10-inchpipe high, and4incheswide.Ialsoliketokeeptheextend- be aconsideration.Itis19incheslong,8.5 up alotofroom,butonpocketcruisersthesizewould a hugestepupfrom“manual-only”grinding. if allyourwincheswerepush-buttonelectric,butitis be abigdrag,butitisnotthatbad.Itaseasy whether havingtopickitupallthetimewasgoing charger, andplentyofbatterypowerforthattime. You willneedatleasta300-wattinvertertorunthe charge itbeforeyouit,toprotectthebattery. you don’twantittorunout.Youdonothavedis- couple ofsailingdays,asitchargesinanhourand the jibtwice.Tomeitmakessensetorechargeevery dinghy twice,trimmedthejibafewtimes,andfurled charge Ihoistedthemainfourtimes, an attachmenttohookitupmyfishingreel! Buddy willmakeagreatbackup.Ievenfantasizeabout dle top.Ifthewindlassmotoreverbreaks,thisWinch it willworkfine.Myanchorwindlasshasawinch-han- this willhappennexttimeIhavetogoupandamsure have notyetpulledsomeoneupthemastwithit,but like oneofthoseexpensiveelectricalroller-furlers.I you canleadthefurlinglinetoawinch.Itrollsitupjust every tack.)Itworkswellontherollerfurling,aslong take alittleefforttopickitupandputinthewinchon takes muchoftheworkoutshorttacking.(Itdoes and getithoiststhedinghylikeagiant. tired, orhaveextraweightinthedinghy,Igodown my dinghyisnothardtowinchup.ButshouldIfeel the dinghyIdonotbothertogodownandfetchit— the workshop.Ihavenoticedthatforanormalhoistof — Iamnottryingtobe“JohnHenry”here). I havehadawork-out(althoughnotflatonmyback ing awayforthreeandhalfminutes,afterwhichIfeel I feelcompletelyfresh.Comparethiswithhand-grind- It zipsupthemainin30seconds,atendofwhich sail oftheday.TheWinchBuddytotallychangedthat. little engineifnecessary,especiallyitwasthesecond made mesometimesopttosailunderjibalone,plusa short distancesthethoughtofpullingupmain weight topulldownwards.Ibegannoticethatfor halyard atthebottomofmast,usingmybody advantage thanwhenIusedtograbdirectlyonthe gives memoreresistanceandalotlessmechanical lines ledafttothecockpit.Thisisconvenient,but hoisting themain.Whenmycatwasbuilt,Ihadall could operateitinthiswayanddo”bigmen”tasks. because itkeepsyoufirmlyincontrol.Evenachild powerful thatIliketousebothhandswhencan, handle soyoucangetbothhandsonit.Ifoundit with triggerandanoptionalside-mountedsteadying It comeswithtwohandles—theregularpistolgrip lcrnc,Cadey Rigging Chandlery, Electronics, www.midatlanticyachtservices.com For moreinformationvisitwww.winchbuddy.com. This productworksasadvertised,takesmuchofthe The WinchBuddyisbynomeanswaterproof,though On acatlikeminetheWinchBuddydoesnottake Is itconvenienttouse?WhenIfirstgotit,wondered Do youhavetorechargeitallthetime?Onone It cranksinsailsbetterthana300-poundgorilla,and When atanchorIstoretheWinchBuddydownin One ofthethingsIfindabittiresomeonmyboatis Does itwork?Yes!Thisthingisasstronganox. So letuslookatthequestionsIwasasking. PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL YACHT SERVICES EU-VAT (15%) Importation Bunkered Fuel(+10,000lt) for Trans-Atlantic Yachts FAX +351292391656 TEL +351292391616 [email protected] MID ATLANTIC Services &Repairs Services Providing allvital AZORES JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 Fuel Sender Detects Water in Fuel Water Detects Sender Fuel Offshore Fuel Sender from NMEA2000 The 3271 a fuel level accu- only provides (UK) Ltd, not Systems if it sends an alarm detects and ±2% but it also rate to fuel. This dual in the water contamination detects and worldwide sender is unique in a single capability fuel is peace of mind that your boat’s provides real from damaging contamination. safe and free up to two are available in lengths The fuel senders cut to a half feet), and are simply metres (six and and tank. They are self-calibrating length to fit the They can parts to stick or wear out. have no moving its to the tank shape so that also be calibrated litres, US gal- can be displayed in remaining contents gallons. lons or imperial visit www.osukl.com. For more information Systems Optimizing Boat Refrigeration a “cool” new tool to SetSail.com has just introduced Safe is a pocket-sized the boating community. Freezer thermometer use- battery-operated digital recording It features an LCD ful for optimizing fridge operation. date, time, and high and graphic display that shows hours or minutes (the low temperatures for 100 days, to record), and user decides what time increment alarm. Just a little big- includes an audible thaw-out gum, it runs on two AAA ger than a pack of chewing temperatures from batteries. The Freezer Safe monitors and temperatures can -20°C to +50°C (-5°F to +122°F), or Fahrenheit. be set to display in either Celsius For more information visit www.setsail.com/cooltool. Get Buffed… of cleaners and polish- There’s no need for a boatload variety of boat surfaces. ers to restore and protect a reconditioner, Yacht Not only an excellent fiberglass Brite Buff Magic from Shurhold Industries is also an ideal metal polish for stainless steel and brass. It restores sur- faces to their original high-gloss finish and helps keep a boat looking like new. Buff Magic, applied with Shurhold’s Microfiber Towels, safely removes oxidation, scratches and dirt in one easy step, without damaging the finish. The Towel set includes an extra-strong towel to wash and clean, a super-soft towel to polish and shine, and a lint-free towel to wipe glass or mirrors. Buff Magic is a nonabrasive cream polish containing jewel- ers rouge — originally formulated to buff precious met- als — to bring out maximum luster and a mirror-like fin- ish. This versatile product also makes quick work of cleaning and polishing glass, plastic and Plexiglas and was the winner of the 2003 National Marine Manufacturers Association’s Innovation Award. For more information visit www.shurhold.com. Boat- (and Eco-) Friendly Washer and Dryer What if your washing machine and dryer could travel with you on your boat and save the environment while saving you money? One Earth-conscious company has created just that in amazing new products called the Wonderwash and the countertop Mini Spin Dryer. Laundry Alternative, Inc. have taken the large bulky washers and dryers out of the equation by creating portable, economical products that are changing the way we think of laundry. The Wonderwash uses 90 percent less water and detergent than conventional washing machines and fits easily on any countertop in your galley or work- shop. The lightweight and quiet Mini Spin dryer extracts much more water from clothes than a regular spin cycle, leaving clothes just slightly damp, ready for a brief airing above decks. For more information, visit www.laundry-alternative.com. Disclaimer: Compass Publishing Ltd takes no responsi- bility for any manufacturer’s claims. delivers nearly nine times more air volume. Perfect for increasing air flow in craft ranging from 10 to 20 metres or for smaller spaces, including engine rooms, on larger vessels, these fans are now CE approved. Designed specifically for the harsh marine environ- ment, each fan features tough, black Teflon epoxy coating for superior corrosion resistance. A specially- sealed, DC direct-drive motor provides silent and reli- able service. Armatures are dynamically balanced for quiet, vibration-free operation. For versatile applications, the Delta “T” 23cm Axial Fan can be used as a “pusher” or “puller” — air flow direction can be changed by simply removing the hub/shaft clip and reversing the hub. An extractor fan for the galley or head perhaps? The Delta “T” Systems Marine Axial Fans are available in 12 or 24 volt DC, with extended wiring leads for easy and quick installation. For more information visit www.deltatsystems.com. grammable, 24-hour LED digital clock and timer, with grammable, 24-hour LED digital it’s finished brewing. energy-saving shut-off when For more information visit www.contoure.com. Away New DC Axial Fans Blow Competition hot on my yacht!” Where Summer’s here, and “It’s too systems are required, compact, high-flow ventilation electrical requirements, most fans fall short. With lower Marine Axial Fan supplies Delta “T” Systems 23cm DC two to three times the air volume of traditional small DC centrifugal marine blowers, while the 28cm model brushed stainless steel thermal carafe keeps coffee keeps carafe steel thermal stainless brushed for — great without a hotplate up to four hours hot for features a pro- also The coffeemaker night watch. SITUATED IN Fax: +7674487701 VHF: 16 Working CH: 19 UNIQUE IN DOMINICA THE CITY OF ROSEAU Capitainerie Tel: +7672752851 www.dominicamarinecenter.com [email protected]

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Postings Outboard High Power Electric many inno- Germany-based winner of Torqeedo, the high-tech has recently introduced a vation awards, The with outstanding thrust. electric outboard thrust force of a six- Torqeedo Cruise 2.0 offers the Product JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 satisfy mypalate’slustforfreshfishcuisine. him whilehewashustlingonthewaterfront.Iforcedtofindanothersource to hill. ThiswasamadnessIneverquitefathomed. that hewaspeddlingtome.Hewouldbypasshishousereachmyplaceon the with more.MosttimesIgavehimtendollars.Itwasourmagicnumber. him atbargainprices.Henevercomplainedandalwayspromisedtohookme up er consumer. dejected, bowinghislankyframetothestreet,ondesperatequestconanoth- these werefishthatdiscardedbythefishermenonshore.Hewouldleave never faltered. would bestandingoutsidewithaplasticbaginhishands.Hishustler’spitch Sometimes Icringed.Othertimessmiled,shookmyheadandheadedout.He ghetto brethren,Ican’thelpbutreminisceaboutourstrangesymbioticrelationship. lock-down, staringoutthroughironbars.AsIcontinuemyjourneytovisitanother but failtopickhimoutfromthecrowdofblue-cladinmates.Mostlikelyheisin con man’svoiceoftheslickestfishhustlermyvillage.Iscanforsignsfiend Fish onHigh Eventually themadnesscametoahead.Hisaddictionbrokehim.Theycaught I knewthathewasusingthemoneytogethisfix.neveratefish On manyoccasionshebroughtfresh,mouth-wateringfish.Ialwaysboughtitfrom Sometimes Irefused.Hehadatendencytooffermemutilatedfish.suspect “Just givemewhatyouhave.” “Just givemetendollarsforthethreepounds.” “I evencleaneditforyou.” “Fresh, freshfish,mybrother.” “I haverealgoodfishforyoutoday,Billy.” Most dayshecameintheafternoonshoutingmynamefromstreets. Someone shoutsmynameasIentertheprisonyard.immediatelyrecognize

by BillyJnoHope

GUY DEAN GUY

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VHF Ch68 orTel: (784) 4583474 JANE GIBB JANE . Thisupscale,oversized is designedtoinspire JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 We cram our overladen bags under the seats of the bus. After a short visit to a We cram our overladen bags under the seats of the Above: By seven o’clock, the Saturday morning market at Port of Spain is well under way Right: I bought a Brazil nut gourd, which burst open weeks later or in steaks? Do I want the head and backbone to make soup? As we are still living or in steaks? Do I want the head and backbone to make on board will soon rise to a in a boat which is on the hard, and as the temperature humid 35 degrees Celsius — perhaps not! driver tours the boatyard to supermarket, we are back in the boatyard by 9:30. The vessel and I hasten to stock drop each one of us off as close as possible to our own the fridge and the freezer with my purchases. Wind and Sea Day Charter, Mayreau,Tobago Cays, Palm Island, Mopion Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878 [email protected] Okaou Boutique Souvenirs, Craft,Tee Shirts, Pareos, Bathing suits, Furniture and more… Tel: (784) 458 8316 Bougainvilla@vincysurf .com Seaquarium Restaurant & Bar Seafood specialties, Live lobsters (Sept to Apr), Bar, Pizzeria, Pool, Table Games and its Giant Aquarium Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8311 [email protected] The Dock Water Station, Dockage, Watertaxi, Ice (Blocks & Cubes), Bakery (French bread) Res: VHF 16, Tel: (784) 458 8878 [email protected] Union Island

Market

by Mary Robinson Bougainvilla For me, a highlight of life in a Trinidad boatyard was a trip to the early Saturday For me, a highlight of life in a Trinidad boatyard was to get in. The entrance By 7:00 the market forecourt throngs with vehicles, jockeying stalls. Not, perhaps, a place A massive concrete building houses the meat and fish A vast covered market spills A vibrant, jostling crowd teems amongst the colourful stalls. back into the meat mar- My bags are getting heavy and time is ticking on. I head

morning produce market in Port of Spain. I would gulp down a quick cup of coffee and morning produce market in Port of Spain. I would gulp and a couple of voluminous hurry off to the main gate, equipped with a large rucksack minibus, organised by Jesse holdalls. A group of shoppers would assemble to await the the various boatyards. James. In total there might be three or four bus loads from one hour to cover the entire hall is lined with snack vendors’ stalls; but we only have heel soup (which might not in market so we ignore such delicacies as goat roti or cow hasten into the market itself. any case seem very attractive so early in the morning). We are being butchered into for the faint hearted or the squeamish, as whole carcasses cow lies amongst the displays saleable joints and the occasional head of a pig or a out of an overcrowded crate. on the counter slabs. In one corner, live chickens peer into the open air. I move on, leaving meat purchases until last, and emerge more. There are innumerable out onto the surrounding streets, for a good half-mile or but bananas. That man, noth- stalls, each one different. Perhaps this lady sells nothing tomatoes and cucum- ing but chili peppers; hot or sweet. The next stall has aubergine, look, here there are little bunch- ber; but another stall over there has bigger tomatoes. And some jars of a superb hot es of sweet-smelling herbs. I want some of everything. I obtain later, burst open to reveal Indian relish. I find a Brazil nut gourd, which, several weeks forget potatoes, eggs and cheese. some 40 Brazil nuts within. In my excitement, I must not Lastly I go to where effi- ket and acquire some excellent steak and a joint of pork. catch. Do I want it filleted cient fishmongers will clean and scale my choice of their

Port of Spain Spain of Port A Morning at at Morning A JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 book especiallyforpeoplelivingonboats. this recipefrommyFrench/Englishcook- Court BayatthesouthofGrenada. ager ofWhisperCoveMarinainClarke’s wide-eyed face. three darkspotsattheinnershell’sbaselooklikea name, brown ordouble.Spanishexplorersgavethecommon six feet.Thenutscanbered,yellow,orange,green, species. Treescangrowto80feetorbearasshort hundreds ofvarietiescoconutsbelongtothesame tude —theclosertoequatorbetter.All only growbetween28degreesnorthandsouthlati- where thathasatruetropicalclimate.Thenutswill throughout theworldandcoconutsnowgrowevery- coconuts ascurrencyuntil1910. Islands intheIndianOceanuseddiscscarvedfrom woven intomats,fishnets,paintbrushesandrope. husks canbestrippedintoafibercalledcoirand into hatsorstrippedtomakesimplebrooms.The sary forlife”.Thecoconutpalmleavescanbewoven which means“thetreethatprovideseverythingneces- Sanskrit tabletsthecoconutisnamed Asia ornorthwesternSouthAmerica.Inancient it wasfirstgrownover3,000yearsagoinsoutheast cook withoutcoconuts? beaches; wherewouldhammockstie;howwe nature’s mostusefultrees.Whatelsewouldshadethe tries usual,andrumwatery.Thecoconutisoneof Callaloo, pilau,and“oildong“wouldbebland,pas- COCONUTS Une Casserole 1 potato(ormashed potatopowder) 1 eggyolk cayenne pepper 1 garlichead(6to8 cloves) 3 Tablespoonsolive oil AÏOLI 2 tablespoonstomatopuree 2 tablespoonsoliveoil bay leaf thyme 2 largeonions 1 lobsterheador2crabs 4 to6reeffishes(23pounds) SOUP Palavas LesFlotsFishSoup I hopeyouenjoy! It’s withagreatpleasurethatIofferyou I’m Luke,ChefdeCuisineandnewman- Ocean currentshavedistributedfloatingnuts The coconut’soriginisamystery.Scientistsbelieve What wouldCaribbeancuisinebewithoutcoconuts? coco à laMer , whichmeansmonkeyface,becausethe kalpa vriksha soup (veryhot). Tablespoons aioli, then pourinthe a sliceofbread,add some cheeseand2 andchill. and pepper.Cover skimmed earlierfromthesoup,salt purists willdisapprove.) (This willlightenthemixture,though stream withequalamountsofwater. create asmoothpaste. pepper (ablenderisalmostasgood),to combine garlic,eggyolkandcayenne juices. Discardthebones. firmly throughaclothtorecoverallthe ing thesoupforafurther40minutes. puree forlateruse.Continuesimmer- 20 minutes.Removethepotatoand used laterintheaioli,andsimmerfor foam foruselaterintheaioli. foam fromthesurfaceandretainthis heat. Whenthesoupboils,skim the fishandbringtoboiloverhigh with aspatula. ring andscrapingthebottomofpan onions andcookuntiltranslucent,stir- Then removethefish. brown thefishwelloverahighheat. into coarsechunks. essary toscalethefish.Cutfish the finsoffwithscissors.Itisnotnec- “Bon appétit!” Serves four. To serve:inasoup plate, firstputin thebread,andgratecheese. Toast Add thepureedpotato,foam Add theoliveoilslowlyinasteady mortarandpestle with For theaioli, Sieve thesoupandpressbones Add thepeeledwholepotato,tobe Add tomatopuree,2litresofwater, Reduce theheat In alargepanheatsomeoliveoiland For thesoup,cleanfishandcut grated cheese 4 breadslices GARNISH , SERVING ATSEABYSHIRLEYHALL ing withbiscuitsortoast. then mixwithremainingingredients.Chillbeforeserv- a fork.Inbowl,mashavocadowiththesaltfishand first brownsaltfishonbothsides,andthenshredwith coconut dryonpapertowels. to itforhalfanhour.Drainoffthemilkandlet coconut dries,itcanbereconstitutedbyaddingmilk grated meatandonecupofliquid.Ifyour not thesameascannedcoconutmilk. sweetened creamofcoconutusedinpiñacoladasare mer andstrainit.‘CocoLoco’orothervarietiesof boil equalpartsofshreddedcoconutandwater,sim- milk butcoconutwater.Tomaketruemilk, dered, flaked,toasted,frozen,andreconstituted. and candy.Coconutfleshcanbedried,grated,pow- type ofdriedcoconutsliversusedincooking,baking mature meatalsoproducestheworld’smostfamiliar ture, butis68percentoil.Gratingorsheddingthe Processed coconuthaslessthanthreepercentmois- fat, usedforcooking,religiousceremonies,orsoap. three months. substitute forglucose.Freshnutscanbestoredupto water issterile,ithasbeenusedintravenouslyasa as thewhitemeathasnotyetformed.Sincecoconut young (lessthansixmonthsold)nuthas“jelly”inside, harvested atdifferentagesforpurposes.A nuts willbecontinuouslyavailable.Coconutsmay nuts. Certaintreescanbloomtentimesayear,so palm. Yearlyatreeusuallycanproduce40ormore 2 clovesofgarlic,minced 1 mediumonion,chopped 2 Tablespoonsgratedfreshginger 1 Cupdrylentils,washed Coco-Lentil Soup Soak saltfishovernight,drainandrinse.Inaskillet, Salt andspicetotaste 1/4 Cupcoconutmilk 1/2 Cupbreadcrumbs 1 Tablespoonfreshparsley 1 clovegarlic,minced 1/4 Cuplemonjuice 1/4 Cupvegetableoil 1/2 Cupcanolaoil 1/2 hotpepper,mincedasfinepossible 1 mediumripeavocado 1/4 poundsaltfishwithoutbones Spicy SaltfishAvocadoGuacamole One regular-sizedcoconutshouldyieldthreecups The almost-clearliquidinacoconutisnot Mature nutsareprocessedfortheiroil,asaturated It takestento12monthsforanutmatureonthe ,

add finelychopped 4 hoursorovernight. Makes8servings. out clean. minutes oruntilawoodentoothpickinserted inthecentercomes a generouslygreased9”x5”loafpanand bake at375°Fforabout50 ture intoflourmixtureandblendwell.Foldinthepecans.Pour cado untilsmooth.Addbuttermilkandmixwell.Pouravocadomix- baking soda,andsalt.Inasmallmixingbowl,combineeggavo- by MaryHeckrotte AVOCADOS? Blend allingredients andpourintopiecrust.Cover chill 1 grahamcrackerpie crust 1 largeavocado,peeled,pitted,pureed 8 ouncescreamcheese 1 cansweetenedcondensedmilk 1/2 Cuplemonjuice (recipe fromMyra, Psalty’s AvocadoPie In alargemixingbowl,mixtogetherflour,sugar,bakingpowder, 1/2 Cuppecans,chopped 1/2 Cupbuttermilk 1/2 Cupmashedavocado 1 largeegg 1/2 teaspoonsalt 1/2 teaspoonbakingsoda 1 1/2teaspoons 3/4 Cupsugar 2 Cupsplainflour Avocado Bread Try theseunusualrecipes. Got excessavocados? WHACHA GONNADOWITHALLTHOSE.... baking powder at least20feetapart,orfromfencelinesstructures. easy. Itisrecommendedtoplantdwarfcoconutpalms after planting.Dwarfcoconuttreesmakeharvesting a heavyraindoesn’twashitaway. sprout acoconutistoplaceitindrain.Bewatchful in threetofourmonths.Ifindtheeasiestway them athome.Nutskeptdampusuallysproutastalk are sprouting,selectfallenmaturenutsandsprout and plantthem—sproutsideup,ofcourse!Ifnone which mayhavealreadysprouted.Takethemhome nuts youenjoy.Scantheareatofindanyfallen Mango orpineapplepiecesmaybeaddedbeforeserving. until riceiscreamy.Removefromheatandallowtocool. before addingcoconutmilk,vanillaandsugar.Simmer simmer untilwaterisabsorbed.Removecinnamonstick cover withwaterandbringtoaboil.Reduceheat Bake at350°Ffor40minutes. order. Pourintoagreasedbakingdishorpiepan. Serve hot. and coconutmilksimmerfortenmoreminutes. simmer for20minutes.Addtomatoes,sweetpepper, broth, hotpepper,andlentils.Bringtoaboilthen ginger andgarlic.Addturmericpowder,chicken A coconuttreeshouldbegintobearfivesixyears To growatree,simplyfindtreewiththetypeof For Gardeners In amediumsaucepotplacericeandcinnamonstick, Fruit (optional) 1/4 Cupsugar(preferablybrown) 2 Cupscoconutmilk 1 cinnamonstick(orTablespoongroundcinnamon) 1/2 Cupuncookedrice Coconut RicePudding Mix allingredientstogether,preferablyintheabove 1 teaspoonvanillaextract 2 Cupsgratedcoconut 4 Tablespoonsmeltedbutterormargarine 1/2 Cupbaker’sflour 1 Cupsugar 4 eggs,beaten Easy CrustlessCoconutPie In alargesouppotheattheoilandaddonion, Salt andspicestotaste 1/4 hotredpepper(canberemovedbeforeserving) 1/2 cupchoppedripetomatoes 1/2 Cupchoppedsweetgreenpepper 1 Cupcoconutmilk 2 Cupschickenbroth 1 teaspoonturmericpowder 1 Tablespooncanolaoil S/V Psalty ) JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 : PORT OF ENTRY HAPPY HOUR 5-6 Compass TOURS ARRANGED MOORING FACILITIES BAR AND RESTAURANT WATER, ICE, SHOWERS CREDIT CARDS ACCEPTED CARIBEE BATIK - BOUTIQUE ... If you need to transport need If you parcels, pallets, magazines, etc... newspapers give CIRExpress to SERVICES efficient COURIER fast and side of St. and French the Dutch Maarten/ St. Martin, delivery system the new offer local the door to door collect and deliver same day,documents, packages and Express Packages,Overnight Freight, Documents etc. us to fast pick up need is contact All you goods. all your and deliver s Mustique …and more! ’ and Choice Meats Sunday: 9am to 12pm Carriacou Revisited VHF Ch 16 & 68 (range limited by the hills) AGENT FOR NEW JEANNEAU YACHTS AGENT FOR NEW JEANNEAU in the Grenadines. T&T’s Operation Optimist West Indies. nn nn ee ee ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WALLILABOU tt tt YACHT CHARTERS, BROKERAGE, SERVICES, RACES YACHT CHARTERS, BROKERAGE, rr rr In Defense of Yacht Hitch-Hikers aa aa aa aa E-mail: [email protected] Int. 001-3057042314 E-mail: [email protected] WWW.CARIBBEANYACHTINGBJ.COM Tel: (784) 488-8479 Fax: (784) 456-5230 MM Monday-Saturday: 8am to 12pm & 3pm to 6pm MM Packages Pick – up call:Packages Pick 690-222473 (599) 553-3850 / + (590) + Read in Next Month’s Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 .. .. Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Vegetables Fine Wine, Cheeses, Fresh Fruits, Corea tt P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, tt THE FOOD STORE Your #1 Choice for Provisioning Caribbean Yachting B. J. Inc Caribbean SS ST. LUCIA, RODNEY BAY MARINA FAX: (758) 452 0742 TEL: (758) 458 4430 SS BAREBOAT, RACE, CREWED CHARTERS – REPAIRS, EXOTIC MATERIALS CHARTERS – REPAIRS, EXOTIC MATERIALS BAREBOAT, RACE, CREWED Beneteau 41S5Jeanneau 35 03 Nauticat 52 92 $ 90 000 $ 90 000Beneteau 50 84 E 230 000 01 Van der Stadt 46 $ 219 000 Wauquiez 38 000 $ 75 Beneteau 38S5 $ 75 000 $ 75 000 Lagoon Cata 55S $ 590 000 Princess 50 63” Catamaran House Boat $ 550 000 35” Racing Extreme $ 800 000 $ $ 50 000 50 000 Beneteau 411 from $ 115 000 Jeanneau 45.2 from 000 $ 145 readers who might

Compass

. I realize the author said she adapted that . I realize the author said she I read an article on cassava where the writer Compass True by Arlene Walrond Compass

and Other Things Other and

of stem attached Trinidad Callaloo, Trinidad It’s not really necessary to have the stems attached to the leaves but it is more con- It’s not really necessary to have the stems attached to the in a deep cooking pot Next, place all the solid ingredients except the hot pepper If you forget to remove the Remove pot from heat, take out pepper and discard. return pot to heat and Next you swizzle the callaloo for about five minutes then passed from generation Bear in mind this method of making callaloo has been Another thing I want to touch on are the root and leaves pictured in the article. In Moving on. In February’s The ingredients are basically the same, with some important variations, and the The ingredients are basically name you may know it by) with about six inches 12 dasheen leaves (or whatever 1 large sweet pepper, chopped 1 green hot pepper 2 Cups coconut milk 2 Cups water and diced 1/2 pound of pumpkin, peeled 8 ochroes (okra), sliced crushed 6 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped finely 1 chive or a few leaves of celery, margarine 1 Tablespoon of butter or cooking salted meat) Salt to taste (omit if using (optional) Crabs and salted pork or beef As a true Trini I feel that I must defend our callaloo. I’m referring to an article that As a true Trini I feel that I must venient to do so. Peel the stem all the way down the veins on the back of the leaves, venient to do so. Peel the stem all the way down the veins tender, they can be rolled then chop leaves finely. Or, if the leaves are young and them and stems as well. and tied in a knot (the traditional way actually); chop pepper in the centre, on top then pour all liquid in and place on stove. Put the hot for half an hour on medi- of everything, and do not allow it to be submerged. Cook um heat. smoke yuh pipe” as we pepper or cause it to rupture while in the pot then “crapaud say in Trinidad. is attained, repeating the simmer for a half hour more or until required consistency stick then whisk vigorous- swizzling process at intervals. If you don’t have a swizzle texture — not too runny ly with an egg beater. You are aiming for a smooth, mushy nicely blended together to the nor too dry, where all of the chopped ingredients are While cooking add water point where the individual items cannot be easily identified. if needed, a little at a time. to generation for more than a hundred years, back in the days before electric blenders and fancy beaters. Originally the swizzle stick (some called it le-le stick) was a small branch, usually from the sapodilla tree, with a cluster of twigs sprout- ing from one end (clipped short) forming natural prongs. The bark was removed and there you had it. The modern ones are made of wood, some with rolled wire at one end. The persons I’ve shared this recipe with in the past are more familiar with the swizzle stick that is used to stir drinks with. Maybe you have a swizzle stick but call it by a different name. Here’s how it’s done. Place handle between closed palms and roll back and forth swiftly. If the leaves are old and tough, as they sometimes are, then mid-way through cooking remove meat or crab, if any, and put callaloo in blender (you might want to let it cool for a bit first) for a sec- ond or two then return to pot and continue cooking. Too much time in the blender will change the texture drastically. Trinidad that root is called tannia, the leaves of which we have always believed to be inedible. What we know of as dasheen in Trinidad looks a lot different, and so do the leaves. To identify the root when cooked, if it ain’t blue it ain’t true! method of cooking also makes a difference. I would like to share my family’s recipe. method of cooking also makes recipe from a Trinidadian high school’s cookbook, but that is not “Trinidad Callaloo”! recipe from a Trinidadian high be interested. To preserve cassava over time, you need to buy freshly dug ones to begin with. Cut off both ends and if it is milky white with no discoloration then it’s good. Peel, rinse lightly and seal in plastic bag and place in freezer. Once a frozen state is maintained it can last for months. When ready to use, don’t thaw — just drop into a pot of boiling water. I’ve tried it and it really works. said that the only problem with cassava is that it spoils relatively quickly. Since reading that I’ve been wondering how to share this information and I’m glad of this opportunity to do so now. On a visit home some time ago a market vendor shared this secret with me. I say secret because if she told this to all of her customers it would be bad for business. I would like to pass it on to appeared in the May issue of the appeared in the May issue of JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48

Flyingfish VenturesLtd

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tel: 440-2310 Dear Dear www.un.org/Overview/rights.html. Human Rightsvisit Editor’s note:ForthefullUniversalDeclarationof J.L. ofSt.Barth democratic society. of morality,publicorderandthegeneralwelfareina freedoms ofothersandmeetingthejustrequirements securing duerecognitionandrespectfortherights as aredeterminedbylawsolelyforthepurposeof doms, everyoneshallbesubjectonlytosuchlimitations lot moreeloquent: Declaration ofHumanRights,aboutliberties,whichis ed, I’lljustletyoureadArticle29,(2)oftheUniversal answer toLauraSargentcouldnotbepossiblyprint- turbing atnightlandfallsinalreadytoo-well-litharbors. truly annoyedbystrobelights,whichcanbereallydis- To Mr.Harvey, S/V Columbine Tony Bullard Simply Googleit. Seamanship andSmallBoatHandling,on-line. You canfindacopyoftheCOLREGSinChapman’s not longandforthemostparteasytounderstand. be familiarwithalltheCOLREGS.TheCOLREGSare and imprisonment.Captainscrewarerequiredto adhere totheserulesandviolatorsaresubjectfines purpose, thandistress,isprohibited.Allvesselsmust specifies thattheuseofastrobelightforanyother strobe lightisadistresssignal.AnnexIV,paragraph2 of nationality.COLREGSRule37specifiesthata any vesselatsea,commercialorpleasure,regardless Collision atSea(COLREGS).Theseregulationscover International RegulationsforthePreventionof other thandistress,isspecificallyprohibitedbythe tioned thattheuseofastrobelightforanypurpose, ter ofchoice.Iwassurprisedthatnoonehasmen- anchor lightisillegal,andthereforenotsimplyamat- people understandthatusingastrobelightasan Harvey intheMayissue.Ithinkitisimportantthat accident occurred. ine whatcouldhappen regardingresponsibilityifan shall beavoided. intermittent orrevolving lights,suchasstrobe navigation. shall besuchthatitcannotmistaken for anyaidto in suchawayasnottoembarrassanyvessel. beam ofhersearchlightinthedirection of thedanger, authorized elsewhereintheseRules,ormay directthe or soundsignalsthatcannotbemistaken foranysignal attention ofanothervessel,anyvesselmay makelight it canbeseen…. prescribed inparagraph(a)ofthisrule. light whereitcanbebestseeninsteadofthelights 50 metersinlengthmayexhibitanallaroundwhite Guard (page106,rule30)say: example, thenavigationrulesfromUSCoast Does everyonehaveitonboardforsure? everyone musthaveonboardasrequiredbythelaw. has broughtuptheofficialinternationalrulesthat lights inananchorage,Iamsurprisedthatnobody Article 29,(2)Intheexerciseofhisrightsandfree- Since mythoughtsaboutthearroganceofyour I’ve livedfulltimefor24yearsonasailboatandam I wouldliketorespondtheletterfromDerrick This cannotbemore clearandIdonotwanttoimag- For thepurposeofthis ruletheuseofhighintensity Any lighttoattracttheattentionofanother vessel Signals toattractattention:Ifnecessary attractthe Second step:samepublication(page124, rule36). That’s thefirststep. Paragraph (a):avesselatanchorshallexhibitwhere International lightsandshapes:Avesseloflessthan If wetaketheUSDepartmentofTransportation,for To finishthediscussionaboutuseofstrobe Compass Compass Readers’ Forum , , Erich Beyer,whosevessel, ting meintouchwithaforumcontributor, Skipper Daphne Langley Thank you, vide anumber,Iwill callback). 2433 ore-mailedat [email protected] (ifyoupro- bay nearthe mine ifherecallsanothervesselthatmoored inthe Los TestigosinearlyApril2006.Iamtrying todeter- Dear CC will informuswhenthePorlamarNetisback ontheair. the VHFnetsthroughoutregion,and wehopeyou — fromweathertosocialannouncements —givenon other cruiserswhoappreciatethevarietyofinformation much ofthecontent“useless”.Naturally,thereare Porlamar inVenezuela”becausehepersonallyfound cruisers’ nets“fromGeorgeTownintheBahamasto not onlyreadinthe Hi there,FellowCruisers, S/Y Nostromo Mike East Bye all, USA. Immigration menwithgunsontheirwaist,likeinthe would workforinyourcountries. don’t forgettheyarenotgettingthewagesthatyou Immigration. Theseguysareheretodoajob,and whinge aboutsomethinglikeCustomsand ing. Behappy.Enjoytheprivilegeofbeinghere.Don’t courtesy flaginthecorrectposition.Andstopmoan- don’t forgetthatyourboatshouldbeflyinganicebig end thefoolhadtogetcorrectcurrencyclear. bank. Youcanimaginethereactiontothis.Butin suggested thathechangethisstuffintoEurosatthe bour duties.Theofficialwasthepeakofcourtesyand tain saidthatheonlyhadUSdollarstopayforthehar- St. BartsonetimewhenanAmericansuperyachtcap- of alotpeoplethatarriveintheseislands.Iwas people. Theyarepolicemenfirstandforemost. Immigration officersarethefirstbarrieragainstdodgy boats comingandgoingalldayduringtheseason. as wellJollytherecanbealotofworkwithsmall was “deepsea”thatisalotofwork.InEnglishHarbour boats withtenor15inthecrew,andasIrecallwhen bad day?InAntigua,sometimestheguyshavetoclear Harbour, Antigua.Isthistosaythatyouneverhavea about CustomsandImmigrationofficersinJolly Hello again,Cruisers, excludes thesolarlightsthatcomefromgarden. Motor YachtBobato Charly Guglielmi strobe lightyouhadinvestedinwithsuchpleasure. his choicetostoplistening nor didhecallit“rubbish”.Hesimplysaidthatwas Forum ErichBeyerdidnotsingleouttheMargaritaNet Dear Katie, Yacht RavenEye Katie Lee Yours sincerely, could announcethis. going againandIwouldgreatlyappreciateitifyou do) thatthisgreatmanshouldstarthishappynet thing. Ipersonallythink(andknowotheryachties closer togetherisagreatthing—well,it one whoisentertaininginthemorningandbringsus leaves yourkneesknockingtogether.Sotohavesome- times boatsdragandevenintoeachotherwhich rip throughtheharbourgustingupto50knots;some- ence strongwindsfromthetropicalsystemsthatcan one grumpysailor. Now Ihavefoundmyselfdisappointedjustbecauseof and hisjovialnessbringsusgreatsmileslaughter. spoken toalotofcruisersaboutthisonegentleman gentleman thatmakesusalllaughandsmile.Ihave myself inPorlamarawaitingthegreatnessofthisone and jokesthatcomewiththemorningnet.Ifind taken agreatdealofpleasurelisteningtothelaughs Porlamar threetimesinthelastyearorso,andIhave yacht news. the so-calledrubbishbutjustweatherand starts at8:00 Compass the onecruiserthatannouncedin through fellowcruisersthatwemetalongtheway,of lovely magazineforustoperuse,Ihavealsoheard I wouldbemostgratefulforyourassistance input- My disappointmentmakesmewritetoyouall.Ihave Oh, bytheway.InCaribbeanwedon’thave In additiontoturningupwiththepropermoney, They arealsothefirsttomeetbombasticattitude We havetorealizethattheCustomsand So wehavecomplaintsintheMayandJuneissues PS. Ananchorlightmustbevisibleattwomiles.This Have agoodnightandAVOIDtrouble, It isacruelworldwhereyoumustavoidusingthe To beaccurate,inhislettertheMayReaders’ Thank youverymuchandkeepupthegoodwork. The anchorageatPorlamarcansometimesexperi- May Isaythathavebeenprivilegedtobein Compass , inreferencetotheMargaritaNet(which Key ofLife AM Readers, local time),thathewishesnottohear Caribbean Compass . Icanbephonedat (206) 654- Key ofLife —Continued onnextpage —Continued any of themorningVHF , wasinabay , whichisa was Caribbean a great JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 business insurance SAIL cell: 340-513-3147 cell: 340-513-3147 e-mail: [email protected] e-mail: 340-0714-6271 office: POWER it is too late. it is too www.maritimeyachtsales.com Fax: 340-777-6272 Marine Fax DM Street or unsatisfactorily settled, Then, if the claim is denied Insurance www.street-iolaire.com insurance is until you have a claim. have you is until insurance The insurance business has changed. business has insurance The insurance,no good cheap is but there There is good insurance,There is cheap there Rather, can only say, broker the honest No longer can brokers talk of low rates. talk of low No longer can brokers insurance.You never know how good your how know never insurance.You “I’ll do my best to minimize your increase!” your minimize best to “I’ll do my settlement record cannot be beat. Iolaire Enterprises (353) 28 - 33927 or e-mail: [email protected] I have been in the 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims Independent Boatyard St. Thomas, USVI Boatyard St. Thomas, Independent 47 Stevens, 1981Oceanis , 1994 44 Beneteau 1978 44 CSY walkover, 42 Hunter Passage, 1995 42 Catalina MKII, 1996 $ 185,000 38 Kennex Catamaran, 1992 37 C&C, 1985 $ 79,000 36 Frers, 1985 35 Morgan, 1971 198834 Tartan, $ 139,000 $ 159,000 32 Gulf Pilot House, 1966 $ 210,000 32 Bristol, 1976 $ 29,000 $ 121,900 $ 32,000 $ 48,600 $ 48,500 $ 49,000 $ 22,000 55 Cheoy Lee LRC, 1980 198050 Marine Trader, 2003 45 Silverton MY, 37 Fountaine Pagot Trawler 34 Mainship, 197927 Grady White, 1997 198526 Fortier w/cuddy, $ 415,000 $ 329,000 $ 445,000 $ 149,000 $ 59,900 $ 40,000 $ 30,000 —Continued on next page , Compass Thank you for the short-wave weather report fre- BBC short wave frequencies change frequently. To get The current BBC schedule (times in UTC) is: 1100 to 13002100 to 2200 9660 & 9480 2200 to 2300 11675 & 13640 On another subject: As ocean travelers we are most- 5795 & 13640 This year has been different however. We recently I would be interested to hear about the experience of Dick McClary’s article “Overboard” in the June issue Perhaps it was particularly poignant because it On one tuitional charter I was supervising the Heaving a sigh of impatience (he was always His escapades had become so routine I had forgot- “If we must,” I quipped, missing out entirely on a Further, when Moor Seacure comes to town, they to town, Seacure comes when Moor Further, is what Moor Seacure’s arrangement I am not sure in moorings, which, to If Nevis is indeed going to put this year and spent I spent about a week in Nevis quencies in the June issue. Unfortunately assembling a table like this invites comments when a discrepancy is noticed. the up-to-date schedule go to www.bbc.co.uk/ worldservice/schedules/frequencies/index.shtml. ly interested in wind and waves, but ocean currents can also affect our progress. We have been crossing the area between Tobago and the Windwards in our sailboat for 16 years and have a pretty good idea of what to expect in this regard as far as where the cur- rent is strongest. completed a trip from Bequia to Tobago, which took 40 percent longer than it usually does due to an uncommonly strong northwest current and a weak southeast wind. Our usual current-avoidance tac- tics did not work. At times I was reading a difference of 2.5 knots between my knot meter and the GPS. Earlier in the month we traveled from Bequia to Martinique using the windward sides of St. Vincent and St. Lucia. This is a route we take whenever there is a southerly component to the wind in the forecast. This year we did the trip in record time, due no doubt to a stronger than usual northerly current along both coasts. other boats that travel these waters regularly. Sincerely, Paul London Saint Brendan Dear Compass, was a rare gem; it had my heart in my mouth while I was laughing at the same time, and was well written with not a word wasted. reminded me of many not dissimilar events when I was sailing with my best friend and partner at that time. He had a habit of leaping overboard. women on the helm and my partner was showing the guys how to bring down the jib when his hat flew off. He did no more than dive in after it. doing that sort of thing) I left the women and helped the guys get the jib down. I had started giv- ing instructions on bringing the main down when one of the guests meekly asked, “Aren’t we going back for B_____?” ten him for the moment. I looked back over the stern and could just see the black bobble of his head. wonderful man-overboard teaching opportunity and setting the worst example I can possibly think of. another island. another and where it is safe balls exactly place their inevitably where mooring than in places anchor, rather easy to two accomplishes useful. This would be balls really chain to use much don’t have for them: They things for out or eliminate the anchorage and they squeeze rather anchor. those who would as far as islands, but I do know that, with the various cruisers are and as far as a lot of other I am concerned less with are on budgets and will spend concerned, we money on a if we have to spend the local businesses local econ- that does not go into the mooring — money coffers in the into government omy (except perhaps point From the island government’s case of moorings). charging more in cus- of view, they would do better balls and cut out the mid- toms fees, not have mooring dle man: Moor Seacure. on an island where me, seem particularly unnecessary then perhaps they would the anchoring is excellent, deep water where it is too consider putting them in like to get their deep to anchor. I know governments source, not indirectly from money directly from every case of moorings, they are local merchants, but in the expense of the local busi- getting that money at the of Moor Seacure, and ness people and the enrichment that seems a terrible shame. local market, the Sunshine quite a bit of money at the (excellent lobster Bar and at other local restaurants pay for a mooring every sandwiches), but having to the future could severely night while I am there in spending money ashore, dampen my enthusiasm for or even visiting Nevis. Sincerely yours, Ken Campbell S/V Magic Hello , too many Editor’s note: , and lack of Caribbean Compass ) too many moorings, moor- , , surveys mentioned. Readers’ Survey 2007 ( Readers’ Survey survey: in which the notice about moorings in Nevis , rolling, too great a depth for anchoring, and , rolling, too great a depth Caribbean Compass Compass Compass I don’t know if the seabed in Nevis is in danger, I really believe that it would be in the best interests I noticed in your June, 2007, edition a small I have seen this trend spread through the islands As a cruiser, I prefer to anchor, for peace of mind, As for the cost of the Moor Secure moorings, the sav- By contrast, when there is an expensive mooring “The anchorage where virtually nobody wants to be “The anchorage where virtually the results of the 2004 This is little different from respondents… The “According to this year’s survey Re: Info & Updates June 2007 “Moorings for Nevis”. 2007 “Moorings & Updates June Re: Info Ports and Sea Nevis Air Henley, Mr. Spencer that one of the undesirable factors Moorings are June issue of the Interestingly, in the same Dear although both Chris Doyle and Don Street say in their cruising guides that the prime anchoring area has a sand bottom. I do know that when Nevis goes ahead with the mooring plans, its seabed will definitely not be disturbed by yachts — nor will the businesses and vendors who previously relied on yacht tourism. of the islands that if, before they go too far in their planning for changes that could negatively impact their yacht-tourism industry, the people in charge talk with their customers to find out what their needs and wants are, and not rely on anecdotal comments or the opinions of a few who are too far removed from the reality of cruising. John Pompa S/V Second Millennium Boston, Massachusetts announcement that Nevis is about to put in 100 Moor Seacure moorings for yachts, supposedly because “yachtspeople prefer to tie up to a mooring.” Another reason given is to protect the sea floor. and have several misgivings. because it does not cost US$15 or $20 or even $25 to spend the night and because I can’t stand the bang, bang, banging of the ball against the yacht’s hull. To add insult to injury, Moor Secure’s “contract” with the unwilling cruisers demands that should the wind exceed 40 knots of speed, the yacht must be removed immediately. That’s great. When the weather is really bad and you really want to be securely attached to the bottom, you have to pick up in the middle of a storm, possibly in the pitch-black of night, and go who knows where along with dozens of other hapless displaced and sometimes not very seasoned boaters. Now that’s a deal I could live without, thank you! The reason for this, of course, is because Moor Secure says their moorings aren’t safe in such weather and, although they don’t say it, they are doing it to be off the hook liability-wise, and your insurance may also well be in jeopardy if you stay. ings from not having to pay a mooring fee allow me to spend my money on shore at local businesses, such as restaurants, vegetable markets, gift stores and rental- car companies. that I must use, I spend less time on the island, less money on shore, or I simply go elsewhere — say to suffers from security problems, harassment, noise, an suffers from security problems, Lack of facil- unclean environment and overcrowding. Other undesirable fac- ities was not of much concern. boatboys, tors written in include nuisance Compass wants to be suffers from anchorage where NOBODY noise, an unclean security problems, harassment, Other undesirable environment, and overcrowding… factors written in included May 2007), yachtspeople’s feelings about moorings are feelings about May 2007), yachtspeople’s out by their responses: clearly spelled spots moorings in the good anchoring operators including jet- respect from other watercraft and anchoring-chal- ski users, speedboat drivers lenged bareboaters.” ing fees Authority General Manager, states that “we believe that “we states General Manager, Authority rather to a mooring to tie up prefer that yachtspeople anchor”. How badly this misconception than drop an his country’s the yachting segment of could affect tourism business.to state that “we Mr. Henley goes on be mandatory whether it will have not yet determined to use the moorings”. In the when choosing an anchorage. cruisers use Compass did not want to be in mosquitoes. Most respondents an anchorage with jet-skis.” Compass appears, Don Street’s article on harbors and moor- ings is spot on. Moorings were installed initially in the BVI as a strictly commercial proposition. Therefore one wonders whether the Nevis Air and Sea Ports Authority’s prime motivation was protecting the seabed and marine life, or have they succumbed to Moor Seacure’s sales pitch: “look at the BVI, over ninety percent of our moorings are rented every night during season”? Left unsaid is the fact that the moor- ings in the BVI are virtually all rented by bareboat charterers. How many bareboats visit Nevis as com- pared to the number of private yachts? ( —Continued page from previous Dear It was mainly private yacht owners who responded to the JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 to findquietanchoragesfarfrom“TheMaddingCrowd”. are notdescribedintheotherguides.Thisenablesthem anchorages thatarepopularwithbareboaters. pictures anddescribehotels,bars,restaurants describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, ARE MOREECONOMICAL! www.iUniverse.com andwww.seabooks.com Real sailorscircleinStreet’sGuidetheanchoragesthat Real sailorsalsobuytheotherguides,thathavepretty Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor experience intheCaribbean,series’fourvolumes BUY STREET’SGUIDES cover theEasternCaribbeanfromPuertoRico at bookshopsandchandleries,orfrom Written byanauthorwith50yearsofsailing STREET’S GUIDES the coastofVenezuelatoABCs. Street’s Guidesareavailable REAL SAILORS down throughtheislandsand Dear Boatless inParadise Julia Bartlett Compass mile toshore. ner wasmorethancapableofswimmingthehalfa was flat,thereonlyagentlebreezeandmypart- frompreviouspage —Continued Ahoy, Forum, S/Y Ambia Jim Hutchinson comparison? flights toandfromtheboat?Doouryachtspaleby ingly crowdedanchorages. stink, andslicksonthewaterIswimin,inincreas- ronmental concerns.I’lladdlifequalityissues,noise, terms ofcarbonemissions,pollution,andotherenvi- much? IstheretooWhy? usage andnumberofyachtswillcontinuetoincrease. far moreyachts.Anditappearsthattherateoffuel what itoncewas.Multiplythatbythefactthereare belief thatperyachtfuelconsumptionismanytimes panels andwindgeneratorsnotwithstanding,itismy systems basedonshort-livedstoragebatteries.Solar generators servingindividualhouseholds,especially cient waystogeneratepoweraregasolineanddiesel sources betweenlargeareas.Perhapstheleasteffi- serving alargearea),improvedbynetworking was centralizingpowergeneration(alargesource demand. Perhapsthemostfundamentalefficiency ly bytokenamounts,againstsignificantincreasesin improves theefficiencyofourpowerusage,butmost- ours) willwanttheirturn.Technologycontinuously awaits itsturn.And ing worldcontinuestoescalate,andthethird have allofthese.Sometimesthatisnotenough. and/or gasolinegenerators.Manymodernyachts dedicated gensets,windgenerators,solarpanels, power fromship’sbatteries,auxiliarygenerators, science fictionwritersofmyyouth.Alltheseneed held devicesthatwouldhavebeenamysterytothe electric stoves.Plusabagfullofrechargeablehand- tioning. And(Icouldn’tbelieveitwhenIfirstheardit) ers, dryers,and(stillrareintheseparts)aircondi- ovens, TVs,powerfulentertainmentsystems,wash- Moreover, therearehairdriers,blenders,microwave tric heads,evenfreshwaterandmore. tronic charts,poweredwinches,watermakers,elec- recent years:sailinginstruments,GPS,radar,elec- tems, andall. grown apacetotheirmotherships—size,power,sys- genset. Meanwhilethetenders,“dinghies”,have Also, anewclassofyachtwhichhasdedicated24/7 rans. And,inmyobservation,morepoweryachts. article areatrendtowardmotor-sailersandcatama- range” inthenextdecadefor“cruisingcouples”. Their guessforthefuturereckons“the60-foot-and-up 40 to45feetadecadeago,and50today. the commonyachtas35to40feettwodecadesago, of theboatswechoseforcruising”andcharacterizes future. Thearticlespeaksof“thegradualsuper-sizing taken placeincruisingandofferedaforecastforthe (October 2005)lookedbackatchangesthathave www.caribbeancompass.com Perhaps there’sroomfora“Confessions”slotin Only slightlyinourdefencecanIaddthatthesea All yachtsnotcapableofandwillingtoimmediately Hurricane seasonishereagain. And whatoftheenvironmentalfootprintall Some mightanswerintermsofmoney,others So, howmuchpowerisenough?Howtoo Power consumptionbythedevelopedanddevelop- Many additionaldeviceshavebecomecommonin Other growthsinyachtingmentionedthe The tenthanniversaryissueof CARRIACOU REALESTATE Tel: (473)4438182Fax:8290 Property Management on Carriacou Compass e-mail: [email protected] or contactCarolyn Alexanderat For fulldetailsseeourwebsite: We alsohandleVilla Rentals& . Land andhousesforsale www.islandvillas.com , Down IslandLtd all of ourgrandchildren(notjust Blue WaterSailing BWS name maybewithheldinprintatyourrequest. We donotpublishanonymousletters;however,your individual regattaresultscomplaints(kudosareokay!). required. and awaywecancontactyouifclarificationis Dear S/Y Ambia Jim Hutchinson One Love, the way.) itself. (One’sverylifemayalsobeatriskashore,by vessels aremoredangeroustothemthantheweather their homesandpossiblyverylives.Unprepared around you,manyofwhommaysoonbefightingfor for astormthreatmakesyouresponsibletothose and seriouslytoallthreats.Enteringahurricanehole keeping abreastoftheweather,andrespondingearly to thosearoundthem.Thisincludesbeingequipped, should hauloutorleavethehurricanebeltsoon. and effectivelysecureforanyallstormthreats 50 ftLuxuryPowerCruiser St. Vincent&theGrenadines Bequia Box 175BQ Readers’ Forum Compass PublishingLtd. or or fax(784)457-3410 [email protected] Send yourlettersto: Letters maybeeditedforlength,clarityandfairplay. We donotpublishindividualconsumercomplaintsor Please includeyourname,boatnameoraddress, We wanttohearfromYOU! Don’t believetheforecasttracks.Beprepared. All whoremaininthewatershouldactresponsibly Based inBequia&Mustique E-mail: [email protected] Yacht Owner’sGuide and howtonavigatethroughthemarineinsurance system To MarineInsurance Practical informationontheproperwaytoinsure ayacht and inexcellentcondition. Compass With orwithoutcaptain. Non-Technical Handbook US$19.95 plusUS$6.00postageandhandling Currently doinggood US Checks,VisaandMastercardaccepted FOR SALE Phone 7844888414 charter business. 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Ketch CC, 3 cab/3 hd50’ Beneteau 50, Cutter, 4 cab/1 crew/5 hd47’ Vagabond, Ketch CC, 2 cab/2 hd ’0346’ Kelly Peterson KP46 CC, Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd ’88 $405K 46’Kelly Peterson,2 cab/2 hd, Immaculate ’02 $249K 46’Formosa Peterson Cutter, 2 cab/2 hd ’80 ’01 $329K 46’ Hunter 460, 3 cab/2 hd 2 avail.from $199K $299K 45’Jeanneau Sun Ody. 3 cab/3 hd45’ Bombay Explorer, 2 cab/2 hd World Cruiser ’83 ’7845’ Hunter Marine Passage CC, 2 cab/2 hd $199K ’8744’ Beneteau 44CC, 2 cab/2 hd, In Great Shape ’79 $ 59K ’94 $249K 44’ CSY 44 2 cab/2 hd, Reduced – Motivated $119K $189K 44’ CSY Walkover, 2 cab/2 hd, Great Condition ’00 ’98 ’7943’ Hans Christ. Christina, $149K ’77 $149K $165K $ 85K ’99 $149K . I would try to help to get the ball the Month the . He made some very valid points, as ever. But I do feel very valid points, as ever. . He made some Caribbean Compass Letter of Letter , Compass Compass www.caribbeancompass.com underwater plain. Now on a different subject altogether, that of waypoints. As I just said, I accept my Now on a different subject altogether, that of waypoints. Okay, so I use five-year-old charts, which actually is quite new for me. But Having exposed in public my predilection for paper charts and the paraphernalia What a blissful state of ignorance we lived in even as recently as ten years ago, What a blissful state of ignorance diving down to check that the anchor was nicely In the early 1990s I remember halcyon days of the 1960s Once again, it is largely a question of numbers. In the conclusion that this dev- Long before I read Uncle Don’s article I had come to the to minimise this damage: It seems as though there are three basic alternatives 1) Yachts are banned. seabed will be a sterile 2) It is accepted that where yachts anchor the 3) Moorings are provided. only viable, alternative. But Yes, there is a capital cost to the last, and to me the I suggest that port author- Far from yacht owners fighting such a suggestion, may It was interesting reading “Uncle” Don Street’s article “Of Moorings and Harbours” article “Of Moorings reading “Uncle” Don Street’s It was interesting Yacht Samhadi Frank Pearce Old Fartdom, and therefore don’t have much enthusiasm for electronics as such. I Old Fartdom, and therefore don’t have much enthusiasm the UK singlehanded; seemed did buy a GPS some time ago when I sailed back to to get a sight in cloudy condi- better than losing sleep jumping up and down trying thing and put some in my tions. I thought recently that I should crack this waypoint type in the name of the way- GPS. I expect that mine is normal in that one can either lazy, I did the latter. And as I point or use the waypoint number in the GPS. Being which I took the waypoint am based in Antigua, I used the Imray chart “A3”, from them in my GPS waypoint numbers that Uncle Don has kindly provided. I entered I still use paper charts, and list and duly set off for Deshaies and Waypoint #19. Yes, produced them. Some weeks have been eternally grateful to Uncle Don for having I used chart “A” for a later when I again set off from Antigua to go to Deshaies 24, so I selected that on the change. Looking at the chart, the waypoint number was Martinique, overland. I GPS — only to find I was being directed to southwestern identical waypoint positions haven’t checked other charts, but on these two, all the have different “Imray” numbers. although this discrepancy must be obvious to the wary navigator, it could catch you out if you were tired after a long passage and not being as careful as you should. We have all heard of “radar assisted” collisions; this could lead to “GPS assisted” groundings. that goes with them, I do have to accept that electronic charts have virtues. This was brought home to me some time ago on my way to Tobago, in the lee of St. Vincent. Under engine I did the unforgivable, took my old Imray chart, the sort that conve- niently folds up, on deck to show the crew, and it blew overboard. An interesting “chart overboard” exercise followed, chasing after sections of the chart, which had separated, with a boathook, in the dark. Got every page back, dried them out and sellotaped them together and must have got them in the right order, as we did arrive in Tobago and not Tortuga or somewhere. I just mention this in case anyone is thinking of coming sailing with me. rolling if needed. when the major objection to anchoring on coral was that it is such rotten holding when the major objection to I would scream blue murder at any boat that ground. Now, with new awareness, to anchor on coral. even looked like intending on covered in conch, live and edible! I’m not going to let set in, to find a flat seabed that’s irrelevant now, because going back to the same where this was, even though the a conch in sight, only a flat seabed furrowed by bay recently, there was not Often there are ten or more yachts in that anchor- familiar tracks of anchor chains. seabed with the anchor chain as they swing, clearing age, each one tearing at the Multiply that by the number of yachts in the popu- anything that lays in its path. and the devastation is awesome. Let it not be “out lar anchorages during the season an exercise one day, snorkel above the many anchor of sight, out of mind”. As Tobago Cays. Lie there and watch for a while. What chains in, for example, the for beam trawlers, maybe, which have been castigated comes to mind? Trawlers or do to the seabed. They may have just a twinge of justifi- years for the damage they food, but the pleasure-seeking yacht has no justifica- cation, as they are providing tion whatsoever. what damage they did to the and before, there were so few yachts anchoring that tend to all congregate in cer- seabed was minimal. But now, especially when yachts tain popular anchorages, it is a very different matter. of his generation, I was astation was not sustainable. Being an Old Fart myself, the cocktail set. And as for brought up thinking that moorings were for wimps and — well, I mean to say, what- having to pay for the privilege of gracing the anchorage ever next?! it should not require an enor- given the life of a screw mooring to be about ten years, the costly dedicated staff mous daily fee to reclaim this amount. Rather than have in the Port Charges upon and boats to collect the fees, these fees could be included Dues on yachts.) clearing in/out. (After all, we don’t have to pay Light of lying in our bunks, hear- ities be petitioned to PROVIDE moorings, so that instead can sleep with a clearer con- ing the anchor chain rumbling over the seabed, we me on the basics of this, let science if nothing else? If anyone out there agrees with me have your ideas through that while mention was made of damage to the seabed by yachts’ anchor chains, the of damage to the seabed by yachts’ anchor chains, that while mention was made consideration it deserves. matter is not really given the in the June issue of in the June issue Dear JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 Yanmar 2GM20,newAwlgrip,2 PEARSON 30'BUILT1973 Olliver orDalliTel(784)458-8888 US$60K/neg. Formoreinfocall dition andresonablypricedat Revolutionary boatingoodcon- built byLaGriffeMarine. engines. 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WHAT’S ON MY MIND ON WHAT’S

Common Sense, Common

then started to drag while he anchored off in another part of the lagoon. then started to drag while he anchored off in another

Common Knowledge Common As long as it doesn’t interfere with neighbours… As long as it doesn’t interfere with A case in point: recently in St. George’s Lagoon, Grenada, I anchored A case in point: recently in St. George’s Lagoon, Grenada, Common Sense an anchorage or in restricted waters, two recent inci- Regarding sailing through a fishing boat pops out of its dock in Gros Islet, or In Rodney Bay, many a time a cold one on the Angels Rest floating bar, we In Tyrrel Bay, while enjoying Common Knowledge me to another minefield – It’s so unnecessary to take these risks. Which brings We all come across these problems, and it is so annoying and worrying. In the We all come across these problems, and it is so annoying anchorage she noticed a My wife Yvonne is a good lookout, and again in the same Common Decency Finally, I’d like to comment on what I would call good manners or lack thereof, i.e. What one does on his or her own boat is, of course up, to them. As long as it does- Why do some people’s inhibitions disappear in a crowded anchorage? On terra and Common Decency Common and times” scope is a bare minimum — and only in certain conditions. I, like many, times” scope is a bare minimum — and only in certain matter how shallow the water would put out a minimum of 30 metres of chain, no is. I want to protect my home. dents come to mind — one in Rodney Bay, St. Lucia, and one in Tyrrel Bay, dents come to mind — one at we can competently sail onto and off an anchor, or Carriacou. Many of us know but in these two cases the skippers had no emer- least hope we can in an emergency, dictates that sailing a large, heavy boat in a restricted gency. Surely common sense area is dangerous. and swims across the “cut”, or a dinghy slides out from someone dives in the water a 40-foot Beneteau sails downwind out of the cut (a nar- nowhere. But, nevertheless, battened mainsail up in 15 to 20 knots of wind. How row channel) with his fully in boat if necessary? Turn into wind, drop the sail, pull could the skipper stop the not chance with a stern anchor and a sky hook! Why the mainsheet? He’d have more up and wait those few hundred yards before putting sail out under headsail alone the main? sailed beautifully through and around all the anchored watched as a 32-foot sailboat did demonstrating the skipper’s sailing abilities, which he boats and the floating bar, boats and anchor chains to avoid. Tacking and gybing remarkably well with so many But moments before, a young past the onlookers, his skills were without question. were different she could girl had slid off the bar to swim back ashore; if the timing the skipper avoiding her. have been run down or other boats hit as a result of about in all cruiser hangouts, anchoring! I suppose this subject is the most talked have the answers. It’s com- and I suppose we all believe a little arrogantly that we all, that the text-book “three mon knowledge for cruising folk, and should be for same anchorage, a sailboat on his fourth attempt to anchor, having already dragged same anchorage, a sailboat on his fourth attempt to anchor, dragged yet again — near onto two other boats, fortunately damaging only his own, in the process hooked mine. to me. He was watching, and lifted his anchor, but Chaser movement. If we were not on Fortunately we were on board and my wife noticed our board, we would have been on the reef! dragging and no one sailboat taking off sideways at a rate of knots. It was obviously on the side of the hull. else noticed. I jumped in my dinghy, raced over and banged No answer. This boat was moving quickly in strong winds; there was no holding at all. I tied alongside and climbed aboard. The companionway was open, keys in the ignition, but nobody on board. I ran forward and paid out 20 metres of chain and the hook bit. As in so many cases, the skipper had apparently just dropped the hook and gone ashore. This was a potential disaster for either him or the boat behind. When I spoke to a crewmember on his return, he said, “Thank you, but I am not the captain. He will be back later.” Then he jumped back in the dinghy and went ashore again. They departed later that day without even saying common decency. n’t interfere with neighbours, what the hell. It’s great to skinny dip, run naked across a deserted sandy beach, sunbathe or sail getting the less exposed white bits coloured up. But when it comes to deliberately displaying the not so attractive parts, and the motions thereof, I must say I find it rather distasteful — as I do my lunch, after having seen them. When someone on a boat 20 metres away decides to urinate over the side of the boat that has the most onlookers, or worse, slide his or her fat backside to the second rung of the boarding ladder — ugh! “Don’t look, then!” my wife says. “I can’t help it; I’m not gonna lay on the cockpit sole to eat!” I reply. “Get the catapult out!” firma, if the same people were in a public park in any town, they wouldn’t walk up to a family having a picnic on the grass, drop their trousers or lift their skirts and have a jimmy or a pony. No, of course not. If so, they would be arrested, locked up and the key thrown away. So be a little discreet, that’s all. If you haven’t a working head, use your head, or head ashore, or better still head for home — we don’t want a fish’s-eye view of your toilet habits. to six metres of water, with 30 metres of chain on the bottom. We had been there for to six metres of water, with 30 metres of chain on the anchored alongside a week or more, in some strong winds. A Lagoon 44 catamaran my polite concern and advice, with little chain out and too close. The skipper noted many times before.” The fol- ignored it, and said, “Don’t you worry; I’ve done this up a lot, the cat swung closer lowing day when the wind turned a little and picked of his friends/crew, but I and closer. I didn’t want to humiliate the skipper in front started to drag and we start- mentioned that he was getting a bit close. His boat then then cursing me for getting to ed to swing in the wind. He started lifting his anchor, near me!” he shouted. close. “How much chain have you got out? You are swinging for, but in essence he said, I said 30 metres. The abuse from him was uncalled man!” Of course, I had to “Thirty metres in five metres of water? You must be crazy, who is dragging!” reply with words to the effect of, “Listen, it is not me JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 31 28 25 25 24 16 -22 16 15 13 -14 11 -12 6 6 5 4 -5 3 1 1 AUGUST TBA TBA 31 -5Aug 30 29- 6Aug 27 -7Aug 26 -39 25 -27 25 24 23 -11Aug 23 -29 21 -7Aug 21 20 -22 19 -29 18 -6Aug 17 16 -18 15 14 14 13 -1Aug 12 -14 9 -10 8 -11 8 7 -8 6 -15 6 -8 5 -18 5 4 3 3 2 2 JULY If youwouldlikea nauticalortourismeventlistedFREE inourcalendar, at thetimethisissueof and thename contactinformationoftheorganizing bodyto so pleasecontacteventorganizers directly forconfirmation. Dragonboat RegattaatKayakCentre,Chaguaramas Independence Day.PublicholidayinTrinidad. FULL MOON GreatRace(powerboats)TrinidadtoTobago Carib St. LouisFestival,Corossol,Barts.Fishing contests,boatraces Festival ofSt.Barthelemy,Gustavia,Barts.Boatraces www.sanjuaninternational.com 54th SanJuanInternationalBillfishTournament,PuertoRico. Restoration day.PublicholidayinDominicanRepublic Feast oftheAssumption.PublicholidayinFrenchWestIndies Grenada Carnival.Publicholidayin Fête duVentRegatta,Lorient,St.Barts. Emancipation Day,PublicHolidayinStKitts&Nevis Kadooment Day.PublicholidayinBarbados Constitution Day.PublicholidayinAnguilla CSA CaribbeanDinghyChampionship,StCroix,www.stcroixyc.com Carriacou Children’[email protected] Carriacou [email protected] Carriacou Children’sEducationFundPotluckBarbecue, St. Vincent&theGrenadines,andTrinidadTobago Emancipation Day.PublicholidayinBarbados, Grenada SummerRegatta Antigua -BarbudaRace.JollyHarbourYachtClub, FULL MOON Fête desquartierduNord-FlamandsBoatRaces,St.Barts Rebellion Days.PublicholidayinCuba Constitution Day.PublicholidayinPuertoRico Bolivar’s Birthday.PublicholidayinVenezuela Saba [email protected] Schoelcher Day.PublicholidayinMartinique USVI LifestyleFestival,St.Thomas.www.usvimf.com Statia Carnival.www.statiatourism.com Luis MuñozRivera’sBirthday.PublicholidayinPuertoRico St. LuciaCarnival.Publicholidayin Northside SportfishingClub,(340)774-5206 Bastille DayKingfishTournament,St.Thomas. Underwater Cleanup,Bonaire.www.dive-friends-bonaire.com Bastille Day.PublicholidayinFrenchWestIndies.YoleracesMartinique St. BarthsOpenFishingTournament Vincy Mas.PublicholidayinSt.Vincent&theGrenadines Chief Minister’sCupYouthRegatta,Tortola.RBVIYC 12th AnnualBequiaFishermen’sDay.www.bequiatourism.com Annual ArubaReefCareProject.dutch.aruba.com Dominica [email protected] Charlotteville Fishermen’sFestival,Tobago.(868)660-5521 Tortola BVICarnival Independence Day.PublicHolidayinVenezuela and USVI.CarnivalinSt.John,USVI US IndependenceDay.PublicholidayinPuertoRico CARICOM Day.Publicholidayincountries Emancipation Day.PublicholidayinUSVI Curaçao FlagDay.Publicholidayin Territory Day.PublicholidayinBVI All informationwascorrecttothebest ofourknowledge 42nd CarriacouRegattaFestival.www.carriacouregatta.com 23rd TourdesYolesRondes,Martinique.DepartsTrois-Ilets Culturama, Nevis Antigua Carnival50thAnniversary.www.antiguacarnival.com Tobago HeritageFestival.(868)639-4441 [email protected], www.yoles-rondes.org (Martinique), tel(596596)614850,Fax:059672, and sailsaroundislandinsevenlegs.SociétédesYolesRondes Cropover Festival(Carnival)inBarbados BVI EmancipationFestival please sendthename anddate(s)oftheevent •[email protected] CALENDAR Compass went topress—butplanschange, . www.st-barths.com separate classes. and crowdedthreeclassroomshavepartialroomdividerstoaccommodatetwo retired teacherservesasavolunteerlibrarian.Mostoftheclassroomsaresmall dents, agesthreeto12years,and11teachers,operatingineightclassrooms.A The firstschoolweadoptedwasBostonPrimaryandInfantSchoolwith330stu- ed tworuralcommunityschoolsthatmetthecriteriaandconceptofourprogram. ical environment.WemovedontothebeautifulislandofJamaicawherewelocat- to haveNorthAmericanschoolscommunicatewithaCubanschoolduethepolit- Zambia andKenya. Schools BeyondBordershadadoptedschoolsinGuatemala,Nicaragua,Romania, would beinterestedinthis.Beforeleavingonoursailingadventureoneyearago, deductible receipt.Webuiltawebsiteandapproachedfewpeoplewethought donation statussoanyCanadiandonatingtothisfoundationcanreceiveatax- go tothe“sisterschool”.WealsoappliedthroughRevenueCanadaforcharitable to ensurethatcommunicationisworkingand100percentofanyfundsraised developed countries.Oncesuchalinkisestablished,thefoundation’smainrole pose ofthefoundationistolinkschoolsindevelopingcountrieswith Act ofBritishColumbia,Canada,calledSchoolsBeyondBorders.Theofficialpur- a schoolindevelopingcountry. would beifeveryschoolinCanada(orthedevelopedworldforthatmatter)adopted We thoughtthisideawasexceptionalandwonderedwhatadifferentworld and evendevelopedafishfarmwhichprovidedon-goingrevenuefortheorphanage. Throughout thoseyearstheCanadianschoolheldfund-raisersfororphanage with anorphanageinGuatemala.Thatrelationshiphascontinuedfor25years. It wasourdesiretohavepurposeaswelladventure. boat withmyhusband,Bill.Itwasdifficulttoimaginewhatthatlifewouldbelike. the horizon,whichincludedanewadventureinvolvinglivingandtravelingonsail- During ourtravelswevisitedCubaandsadlyfoundthatitwouldbetoodifficult The ideablossomedintousestablishinganon-profitfoundationundertheSociety Several yearspreviouslyweheardaboutaschoolinCanadathathadpartnered Having workedinschooldistrictadministrationfor36years,retirementwason Sailing With a Purpose by BevBate —Continued onnextpage —Continued JULY 2007 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 Students in countries of privilege benefit by gaining a new understanding of the understanding a new benefit by gaining of privilege in countries Students and, support, needed financial receive much countries in developing Students a needy the joining of stimulating the catalyst, part, could be for their The sailors, always use by volunteers and we can Borders is run completely Schools Beyond or e-mail www.schoolsbeyondborders.com in this program visit If you are interested send an educational gift to their “sister school” for the benefit of all students. of the benefit for school” “sister to their gift an educational send citizenship. model good global learning to world and developing care about them. others truly hope knowing a sense of importantly, even more developed world school. school with a countries and to schools in developed in introducing the program more, particularly to get involved. encouraging them us at [email protected]. While in Haiti we were able to bring Etoile Du Matin School 200 students’ notebooks While in Haiti we were able to bring Etoile Du Matin School which had been donated by a fellow cruiser in Jamaica The second Jamaican school added to our program, Drapers All Age School, has All Age School, Drapers to our program, school added Jamaican The second that the we noted However, in all areas. numerous needs schools have These small Haitian arrived in Ile-a-Vache, a Port Antonio, Jamaica, and We sailed from selling fish, came in droves to our boat dugout canoes Children in home-made Du Matin School and interviewed the principal and While in Haiti we visited Etoile purpose. We are anxious to We have truly experienced the joy of sailing with a classroom-to-classroom or Once schools are connected, the schools communicate 258 students and 17 teachers, including the principal, with Grades 1 to 9. Grades 1 to 9. with the principal, teachers, including and 17 258 students their into moving most interest have expressed of their needs, regardless teachers, not have currently do The schools computers. age with into the electronic students We are excit- shared by the teaching staff. except for one computer any computers have expressed in Canadian cities program working as two teachers ed to see the September. with these schools in interest in joining beautiful island We encountered a southwest corner of Hispaniola. island on the (and cruis- delight. Most cruising guides respectful people and a true with friendly, extremely high it is unsafe due to the to steer clear of Haiti because ers) advise you We were wel- Ile-a-Vache is an exception. against whites. However, murder rate peace. was a true sense of joy and friendly people and there comed by warm, looking for work doing laundry or boat cleaning. Bill had eggs, vegetables or fruit, or children arriving at the boat. We tried to take a nap endless patience with these traveling for 42 hours) and we kept hearing “knock, when we first arrived (after Bill jumped up and visited with the children and kept knock, knock” on our hull. else he thought they might like including coloring digging around for something as line and hooks. We unloaded all our goodies there books, crayons, balls, fishing so to find a people of greater need. One little boy was we knew we’d be hard pressed gave him, he left kissing it. One fisherman left the bat- thrilled with the little ball we our board our boat so we could give him a boost from tery for his fishing boat on received diving masks so they could harvest from the sea. generator. Two young men by doctors in Spain in 1995 and they send funds director. This school was founded The the equivalent of approximately US$150 per year. for the teachers’ salaries — is attracting and keeping qualified teachers. Two school admits its greatest challenge attend school in shifts, as all ages are accommodated hundred and sixty students has minimal resources. There is a dire shortage of text- in this school. The school equipment, art supplies, musical instruments and books, library books, playground is clean, organized and orderly and the students well even electricity. The school We were able to bring them 200 students’ note- groomed with neat, clean uniforms. by a fellow cruiser while we were in Jamaica. He had books which had been donated to go to Haiti if at all pos- worked in Haiti and was anxious for his gift of notebooks gift. This school was added to sible. The principal was thrilled with the unexpected Borders. The school in Haiti our growing inventory of schools for Schools Beyond them. already has a school in Canada interested in adopting in Canada (or elsewhere adopt as many schools as possible but need more schools would like to have an inven- in the developed world) to partner with them. Ideally we in a third world country. tory of privileged schools waiting for a “sister school” the school year. Amazingly student-to-student through letters or e-mail, during which makes communication most third world schools have access to the internet Once a year, or more often as much more effective as regular post can take months. would do a fund-raiser and determined by the school in the developed country, they —Continued page from previous