Irish Mountain Log Issue 96
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Cíl Všech Horolezccíl Všech Horolezců Na Vrchol Mont Blanc Vede Více Cest
Grandes Jorasses Dent du Géant Aiguille du Midi Mont Blanc du Tacul Mont Maudit Mont Blanc Dôme du Goûter Aiguilles de Bionnassay 4208 m 4013 m 3842 m 4248 m 4465 m 4810 m 4304 m 4052 m Refuge des Refuge des Grands Mulets Refuge du Goûter Refuge de Tête Rousse Cosmiques 3051 m 3835 m 3167 m 3613 m Arête du Dôme La Jonction Plan de l’aiguille ! Uvědomte si nebezpečí Chamonix Nepleťte si obtížnost s nebezpečím. Nejrušnější cesty na Mont Blanc nejsou odborně řečeno nijak Plan de zvlášť náročné. Avšak vyskytují se na nich všechna nebezpečí spojená s tímto prostředím. Dosažení vrcholu Mont Blanc l'Aiguille 7 cest na vrchol Alp Pro snížení rizika začněte nejprve s identifikací nebezpečí terénu a monitorováním aktuálního stavu a možností členů vaší skupiny. Cíl všech horolezcCíl všech horolezců Na vrchol Mont Blanc vede více cest. St-Gervais- 3 les-Bains léphérique Té Nadmořská výška Vyzkoušet některou z méně klasických cest může být zábavné, zvláště v ruš- Pro nás horolezce, kteří kolikrát cestujeme tisíce kilometrů, abychom vylezli na vrchol nějším období. Techničtější pasáže vyžadují velké zkušenosti. Kvůli obtížnosti a Čím výše stoupáte, tím méně je kyslíku. les Houches AHN (akutní horská nemoc) je neustálou hrozbou. Bolest hlavy, Mont Blancu, je to něco víc než jen další vrchol v deníčku. Je to sen, někdy i legenda. Historie naší hlavně kvůli riziku expozice. TMB nespavost, dýchavičnost, nechutenství, pocit ucpaného nosu...hlavní příznaky se mohou objevit již v 3 500 m. vášně je vepsána do jeho svahů. Horlivé snažení, nedotčené svahy a elegantní štíty, přátelství na Nedá se dělat nic jiného, než se vrátit zpět. -
Objectif Mont-Blanc
UNE HISTOIRE DE PUDDING ET DE CHANTILLY Pour tout amoureux de la montagne, le Mont-Blanc est une course mythique, pour ce qu'elle représente dans l'histoire de l'alpinisme, parce qu'il s'agit du toit de l'Europe. Le 8 août 1786, à 18h23, Jacques Balmat et Michel-Gabriel Paccard sont les premiers hommes à fouler son sommet. L’aventure vous tente ? Alors, suivez-nous ! 1 OBJECTIF MONT-BLANC SOMMAIRE INTRODUCTION ...................................................................................................................................... 3 PRÉPARATION......................................................................................................................................... 4 Étape 1 : course type : l’ascension du dôme des Ecrins (Hautes-Alpes)................................................ 4 Programme ......................................................................................................................................... 4 Tarif ..................................................................................................................................................... 5 Étape 2 : Mise en condition (altitude, dénivelés).................................................................................... 6 La Jonction .......................................................................................................................................... 6 Le Mont Buet ..................................................................................................................................... -
Mountain Rescue Ireland the 12 Mountain Rescue Teams Mountain Rescue Ireland
11/11/2014 Mountain Rescue Ireland Prior to 1965 organised mountain rescue was practically nonexistent in Ireland. If you required assistance, this was organised through local mountaineering clubs and local farmers. The Kerry Mountain Rescue Team and the An Oige Mountain Rescue Team were formed in 1966. For almost twenty years the An Oige Team was the only organised mountain rescue service in the Dublin and Mountain Rescue – Accident Procedures – Plan of Action Wicklow mountains. Because of the need for a quick response local rescue team in the Wicklow Mountains, the Red Cross Glen of Imaal Mountain Rescue Team was formed in 1983. Around this time the An Oige Rescue Team disbanded and reformed as the Dublin / Wicklow Mountain Rescue Team in 1984. Since then both teams work very closely together to provide a very efficient search and rescue service for the Dublin / Wicklow mountains. The 12 Mountain Rescue Teams Mountain Rescue Ireland Donegal MRT Covering the mountains of County Donegal ie Slieve League, Bluestack Mountains, Each team has long-standing arrangements whereby it can be called out by a neighbouring team Errigal, Muckish, Derryveagh Mountains and the Inishowen Peninsula to assist them when required. North West MRT Covering the mountains of the north-west of Northern Ireland Some teams have more developed arrangements whereby call-outs in particular areas are dealt Mourne MRT Covering the Mourne Mountains with by the teams on a joint or allocated basis. This has developed in areas of high call-out rates Dublin & Wicklow MRT Covering the mountains of Counties Dublin and Wicklow such as the Dublin/Wicklow mountains which are close to areas of high population density. -
The Summits of Modern Man: Mountaineering After the Enlightenment (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2013)
Bibliography Peter H. Hansen, The Summits of Modern Man: Mountaineering after the Enlightenment (Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press, 2013) This bibliography consists of works cited in The Summits of Modern Man along with a few references to citations that were cut during editing. It does not include archival sources, which are cited in the notes. A bibliography of works consulted (printed or archival) would be even longer and more cumbersome. The print and ebook editions of The Summits of Modern Man do not include a bibliography in accordance with Harvard University Press conventions. Instead, this online bibliography provides links to online resources. For books, Worldcat opens the collections of thousands of libraries and Harvard HOLLIS records often provide richer bibliographical detail. For articles, entries include Digital Object Identifiers (doi) or stable links to online editions when available. Some older journals or newspapers have excellent, freely-available online archives (for examples, see Journal de Genève, Gazette de Lausanne, or La Stampa, and Gallica for French newspapers or ANNO for Austrian newspapers). Many publications still require personal or institutional subscriptions to databases such as LexisNexis or Factiva for access to back issues, and those were essential resources. Similarly, many newspapers or books otherwise in the public domain can be found in subscription databases. This bibliography avoids links to such databases except when unavoidable (such as JSTOR or the publishers of many scholarly journals). Where possible, entries include links to full-text in freely-accessible resources such as Europeana, Gallica, Google Books, Hathi Trust, Internet Archive, World Digital Library, or similar digital libraries and archives. -
Note on the History of the Innominata Face of Mont Blanc De Courmayeur
1 34 HISTORY OF THE INNOMINATA FACE them difficult but solved the problem by the most exposed, airy and exhilarating ice-climb I ever did. I reckon sixteen essentially different ways to Mont Blanc. I wish I had done them all ! NOTE ON THE ILLUSTRATIONS FIG. 1. This was taken from the inner end of Col Eccles in 1921 during the ascent of Mont Blanc by Eccles' route. Pie Eccles is seen high on the right, and the top of the Aiguille Noite de Peteret just shows over the left flank of the Pie. FIG. 2. This was taken from the lnnominata face in 1919 during a halt at 13.30 on the crest of the branch rib. The skyline shows the Aiguille Blanche de Peteret on the extreme left (a snow cap), with Punta Gugliermina at the right end of what appears to be a level summit ridge but really descends steeply. On the right of the deep gap is the Aiguille Noire de Peteret with the middle section of the Fresney glacier below it. The snow-sprinkled rock mass in the right lower corner is Pie Eccles a bird's eye view. FIG. 3. This was taken at the same time as Fig. 2, with which it joins. Pie Eccles is again seen, in the left lower corner. To the right of it, in the middle of the view, is a n ear part of the branch rib, and above that is seen a bird's view of the Punta lnnominata with the Aiguille Joseph Croux further off to the left. -
Guide Hiver 2020-2021
BIENVENUE WELCOME GUIDE VALLÉE HIVER 2020-2021 WINTER VALLEY GUIDE SERVOZ - LES HOUCHES - CHAMONIX-MONT-BLANC - ARGENTIÈRE - VALLORCINE CARE FOR THE INDEX OCEAN* INDEX Infos Covid-19 / Covid information . .6-7 Bonnes pratiques / Good practice . .8-9 SERVOZ . 46-51 Activités plein-air / Open-air activities ����������������� 48-49 FORFAITS DE SKI / SKI PASS . .10-17 Culture & Détente / Culture & Relaxation ����������� 50-51 Chamonix Le Pass ��������������������������������������������������������������������� 10-11 Mont-Blanc Unlimited ������������������������������������������������������������� 12-13 LES HOUCHES . 52-71 ��������������������������������������������� Les Houches ��������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 14-15 Ski nordique & raquettes 54-55 Nordic skiing & snowshoeing DOMAINES SKIABLES / SKI AREAS �����������������������18-35 Activités plein-air / Open-air activities ����������������� 56-57 Domaine des Houches . 18-19 Activités avec les animaux ����������������������������������������� 58-59 Le Tourchet ����������������������������������������������������������������������������������� 20-21 Activities with animals Le Brévent - La Flégère . 22-25 Activités intérieures / Indoor activities ����������������� 60-61 Les Planards | Le Savoy ��������������������������������������������������������� 26-27 Guide des Enfants / Children’s Guide . 63-71 Les Grands Montets ����������������������������������������������������������������� 28-29 Famille Plus . 62-63 Les Chosalets | La Vormaine ����������������������������������������������� -
Pour Les Guides
VOIE ROYALE POUR LES GUIDES L’histoire de la compagnie des guides de Saint-Gervais Le 8 août 1786 sonne la fin des espérances locales. est étroitement liée à l’exploration du massif du Mont- Michel Paccard et le guide Jacques Balmat Blanc et à la rivalité avec les communes voisines. atteignent le sommet du mont Blanc depuis Fondée en 1864, elle est la deuxième institution de Chamonix. La voie du Goûter va tomber dans guides de haute montagne en France. Avec quelques l’oubli pendant de nombreuses années. Charles singularités qui la distinguent de ses voisines. Durier, qui fut président et secrétaire général du Club alpin français à partir de 1895, écrira : u xviiie siècle, les tentatives « Chamonix et Saint-Gervais sont deux cités d’ascension du mont Blanc rivales, comme autrefois Rome et Albe. Si la pre- font entrer Saint-Gervais mière comptait les cristalliers les plus hardis, la dans l’histoire de l’alpinisme. seconde était fière à bon droit de l’intrépidité de La conquête de la plus haute ses chasseurs de chamois. C’est par le côté de cime des Alpes ne laisse pas Saint-Gervais que l’ascension du Mont-Blanc avait indifférents les habitants du d’abord paru plus près de réussir… Saint-Gervais pays. Ces paysans, conscients crut tenir la victoire, Chamonix l’emporta et Saint- des retombées économiques potentielles de l’alpi- Gervais en conçut un amer chagrin. » Ascension du mont Blanc La première ascension saint-gervolaine du mont ceux de Chamonix. Elle se dote d’un fonctionnement nisme, vont troquer leurs outils agricoles contre le En 1815, le colonel autrichien Franz-Ludwig von par le pyrénéiste et alpiniste Blanc est réalisée par le chef des guides Joseph- moderne reposant sur la « caisse de secours » (un français Henri Brulle, piolet pour accompagner les premiers voyageurs. -
Analysis of the Accident on Air Guitar
Analysis of the accident on Air Guitar The Safety Committee of the Swedish Climbing Association Draft 2004-05-30 Preface The Swedish Climbing Association (SKF) Safety Committee’s overall purpose is to reduce the number of incidents and accidents in connection to climbing and associated activities, as well as to increase and spread the knowledge of related risks. The fatal accident on the route Air Guitar involved four failed pieces of protection and two experienced climbers. Such unusual circumstances ring a warning bell, calling for an especially careful investigation. The Safety Committee asked the American Alpine Club to perform a preliminary investigation, which was financed by a company formerly owned by one of the climbers. Using the report from the preliminary investigation together with additional material, the Safety Committee has analyzed the accident. The details and results of the analysis are published in this report. There is a large amount of relevant material, and it is impossible to include all of it in this report. The Safety Committee has been forced to select what has been judged to be the most relevant material. Additionally, the remoteness of the accident site, and the difficulty of analyzing the equipment have complicated the analysis. The causes of the accident can never be “proven” with certainty. This report is not the final word on the accident, and the conclusions may need to be changed if new information appears. However, we do believe we have been able to gather sufficient evidence in order to attempt an -
La Pierre À Bosson
Aiguille du Aiguille du Passon Chardonnet Aiguille Aiguille 3 383 m 3 824 m Aiguille d’ Aiguille du du Tour Bec Rouge Argentière Génepi Purtscheller 3 529 m Bec Rouge Supérieur 3 900 m 3 265 m 3 478 m Pointes Inférieur 3 050 m Aiguille 2 841 m Pointe des Grands du Pissoir Bec de de Bron 3 102 m 3 441 m l’Achat 2 954 m 2 447 m Glacier du Tour Tête du Grand Chantet Y 1 967 m E Glacier d’ UR Argentière LE Point ÉC de vue P DE m 6701 MONTAGNE LE TOUR Le Bisme Pierre à Bosson MONTROC Départ 1365 m LE PLANET Gare Gîte Paravalanche Le Moulin ancien hôtel LES FRASSERANDS ARGENTIÈRE Arrivée L’Arve 1 250 m Arrêts de bus sérac. chute de formidable la à terminale langue sa de d’Argentière, glacier du d’ablation zone de vuesurl’ensemblede la superbe point un gagne crochet un Sur leparcours, Argentière en passant par le Planet, alternant vieil habitat, forêt et pentes fleuries. à Montroc de conduira vous qui demi-journée d’une balade agréable C’est une traversée traversée ponctuée de blocs prend fin au sommet en amont par une série de lacets. Une ultime dominés parleslysMartagon. d’épilobes champ large : florales espèces aux belle part la épicéas laissent des couvert du libérées pentes Ces Argentière. vers descente de chemin du lecroisement avec coïncide dernier et leplusvaste des couloirs d’avalanche, redoutables Le en hiver. Bosson, la forêt est régulièrement coupée par ! àraconter deshistoires enaurait :il mélèze très vieux un adossé à banc le de s’asseoir sur delamontagnePéclerey. -
In Memoriam 115
IN MEMORIAM 115 • IN MEMORIAM CLAUDE WILSON 1860-1937 THE death of Claude Wilson within a few weeks of attaining his seventy-seventh birthday came as a terrible shock to his many friends. Few of us even knew that he was ill, but in the manner of his passing none can regret that there was no lingering illness. We can but quote his own words in Lord Conway's obituary: 'the best we can wish for those that we love is that they may be spared prolonged and hopeless ill health.' His brain remained clear up to the last twenty-four hours and he suffered no pain. The end occurred on October 31. With Claude Wilson's death an epoch of mountaineering comes to an end. He was of those who made guideless and Alpine history from Montenvers in the early 'nineties, of whom but Collie, Kesteven, Bradby, ~olly and Charles Pasteur still survive. That school, in which Mummery and Morse were perhaps the most prominent examples, was not composed of specialists. Its members had learnt their craft under the best Valais and Oberland guides; they were equally-proficient on rocks or on snow. It mattered little who was acting as leader in the ascent or last man in the descent. They were prepared to turn back if conditions or weather proved unfavourable. They took chances as all mountaineers are forced to do at times but no fatal accidents, no unfortunate incidents, marred that great page of Alpine history, a page not confined to Mont Blanc alone but distributed throughout the Western Alps. -
Mountaineering Books Under £10
Mountaineering Books Under £10 AUTHOR TITLE PUBLISHER EDITION CONDITION DESCRIPTION REFNo PRICE AA Publishing Focus On The Peak District AA Publishing 1997 First Edition 96pp, paperback, VG Includes walk and cycle rides. 49344 £3 Abell Ed My Father's Keep. A Journey Of Ed Abell 2013 First Edition 106pp, paperback, Fine copy The book is a story of hope for 67412 £9 Forgiveness Through The Himalaya. healing of our most complicated family relationships through understanding, compassion, and forgiveness, peace for ourselves despite our inability to save our loved ones from the ravages of addiction, and strength for the arduous yet enriching journey. Abraham Guide To Keswick & The Vale Of G.P. Abraham Ltd 20 page booklet 5890 £8 George D. Derwentwater Abraham Modern Mountaineering Methuen & Co 1948 3rd Edition 198pp, large bump to head of spine, Classic text from the rock climbing 5759 £6 George D. Revised slight slant to spine, Good in Good+ pioneer, covering the Alps, North dw. Wales and The Lake District. Abt Julius Allgau Landshaft Und Menschen Bergverlag Rudolf 1938 First Edition 143pp, inscription, text in German, VG- 10397 £4 Rother in G chipped dw. Aflalo F.G. Behind The Ranges. Parentheses Of Martin Secker 1911 First Edition 284pp, 14 illusts, original green cloth, Aflalo's wide variety of travel 10382 £8 Travel. boards are slightly soiled and marked, experiences. worn spot on spine, G+. Ahluwalia Major Higher Than Everest. Memoirs of a Vikas Publishing 1973 First Edition 188pp, Fair in Fair dw. Autobiography of one of the world's 5743 £9 H.P.S. Mountaineer House most famous mountaineers. -
What Is a T-Nut and How Does It Work? How Do You Fasten ʻbolt-Onʼ
What is a T-nut and how does it work? How do you fasten ʻBolt-onʼ climbing holds to wood climbing walls? This guide is intended to be a quick explanation for customers who are brand new to climbing. Prior to fastening bolt-on climbing holds to wood climbing walls, t-nuts must be installed in the back of the climbing wall. The bolt will go through the climbing hold, through the wood, and into the t-nut. A t-nut is basically a nut with a flange on one side. The barrel of the t-nut can fit into a 7/16” hole, but the flange is 1” wide so it cannot fit through the hole. The flange catches the surface of the climbing wall surrounding the 7/16” hole. The Barrel of the T-nut should be recessed behind the front surface of the climbing wall by at least 1/ 4”. Climbing holds must not make di- rect contact with the t-nut. If the climbing hold makes direct con- tact with the t-nut it will eliminate the friction between the surface of the climbing wall and the back of the climbing hold. Climbing holds must have good contact with the climbing wall in order to be secure. Selecting the proper length bolts: Every climbing hold has a different shape and structure. Because of these variations, the depth of the bolt hole varies from one climbing hold to another. Frogs 20 Pack Example: The 20 pack of Frogs Jugs to the right consists of several different shaped grips.