Bequia Easter Regatta 2008 the Caribbean’Smonthly Look at Sea&Shore

ALL PHOTOS: WILFRED DEDERER APRIL 2008NO. 151 Bequia Easter Regatta 2008 The Caribbean’sMonthly Look at Sea&Shore

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t Trinidad and Tobago Antigua Barbados Bequia Britis Barbados Antigua Tobago and Trinidad t Antigua Barbados Bequia British Virgin Islands Curacao Curacao Islands Virgin British Bequia Barbados Antigua Dominica Grenada Panama Puerto Rico St. Croix Croix St. Rico Puerto Panama Grenada Dominica St. Lucia St. Martin St. Vincen St. Martin St. Lucia St. APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4

CHANEY The Caribbean’sMonthlyLookatSea&Shore iiigVnzeastpi.. 24 Visiting Venezuela’stepuis.... Angel FallsForay 18 The routebackeast ...... Cuba, Continued… 11 Record-setting fleet ...... Heineken St. Maarten’s odSac ...... 39 Word Search ...... Cruising Crossword 38 Cartoons ...... Island Poets 38 ...... Sailors’ Horoscope 24 All Ashore… ...... 18 Destinations ...... 14 Regatta News...... 8 Business Briefs ...... See Writers’Guidelinesatwww.caribbeancompass.com.Sendsubmissions [email protected]. Caribbean Compass Tel: (767)448-2705,[email protected] Dominica MarineCenter,24VictoriaStreet,Roseau, Dominica: [email protected] Tel: (5999)767-9042,Fax:767-9003, Curaçao: [email protected] Tel/Fax: (246)426-0861 Barbados: [email protected] Tel (268)720-6868 Antigua: Compass AgentsbyIsland: [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Art, Design&Production...... WilfredDederer [email protected] Advertising &Distribution...... TomHopman [email protected] Assistant Editor...... ElaineOllivierre [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3409,Fax:457-3410, Bequia, St.VincentandtheGrenadines. Compass PublishingLtd.,P.O.Box175BQ, Caribbean Compass AdSales&Distribution-LucyTulloch Distribution - Cees de Jong Distribution-CeesdeJong Distribution - Norman Faria Distribution-NormanFaria Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution -HubertJ.Winston welcomes submissionsofshortarticles,newsitems,photosanddrawings. except shortexcerptsforreviewpurposes,maybemadewithoutwritten permissionofCompassPublishingLtd. ©2008 CompassPublishingLtd.Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction, copyortransmissionofthispublication, supplied byothercompanies. Compass PublishingLtd.acceptsnoliabilityfordelayeddistributionor printingqualityastheseservicesare responsibility foranystatementsmadetherein.Lettersandsubmissions maybeeditedforlengthandclarity. sole responsibilityoftheadvertiser,writerorcorrespondent,andCompass PublishingLtd.acceptsno We supportfreespeech! is published monthly by ispublishedmonthlyby APRIL 2008•NUMBER151 www.caribbeancompass.com ...... 38 ...... 39 ...... DEPARTMENTS ISSN 1605-1998 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the Butthecontentofadvertisements,columns,articlesandlettersto editorarethe id rgtnvyg ..... 32 Birds brightenvoyage ...... Welcome Guests 30 Guadeloupe toMontserrat .... Passage Paddleboard North shorebeckons St. CroixCalling! [email protected] Tel: (58-281)265-3844Tel/Fax:265-2448, Venezuela: [email protected] Tel: 868)634-2622Mob:(868)620-0978 Trinidad: Tel: (284)494-2830,Fax:494-1584 Tortola/BVI: Tel: (784)457-3527,[email protected] St. Vincent&theGrenadines: Tel: (340)7747931,[email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: [email protected] Tel/Fax: +590(0)590845310Mob:64945 Ad Sales-StéphaneLegendre Distribution -EricBendahan(599)5533850 St. Maarten/St.Barths/Guadeloupe: [email protected] Tel: (758)584-1292, St. Lucia: [email protected] Tel: (0596)596686971,Mob:+(0)696932638 Martinique: [email protected] Mob: +590(0)6904945 Advertisers’ Index 54 ...... 54 Classified Ads ...... 52 Caribbean Marketplace...... What’s OnMyMind 51 ...... Readers’ Forum 47 ...... 46 Cooking withCruisers ...... Meridian Passage 42 ...... 40 Dolly’s DeepSecrets ...... Cruising Kids’Corner 40 ...... Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend Ad Sales&Distribution-JackDausend Distribution -WayneBarthelmy Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik AdSales&Distribution-PattyTomasik Stéphane Legendre Guadeloupe: Tel: (473)[email protected] Ad Sales&Distribution-AlanHooper Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado AdSales&Distribution-IsabellePrado Distribution-GladysJones Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution-BryanLezama Ad Sales & Distribution AdSales&Distribution ...... 28 ......

Ad Sales - Debra Davis, Ad Sales-DebraDavis, DE ROUCK DE Photos: WilfredDederer Cover: BequiaEasterRegatta2008 MAY WindsurfraceinBonaire 30 28 27 -May3 tel/fax(268)460-1799,[email protected],www.antiguayachtclub.com 25 -20 25 -27 25 -27 24 Club(RBVIYC),tel(284)494-3286,[email protected],www.rbviyc.net 22 20 19 19 17 -3May 17 -22 12 –13 12 –13 12 11 -13 6 -26 1 -6 APRIL Mriiu) e 56 49 8 a 56 46 2 (Martinique).tel(596)749248,fax6202, [email protected] TBA 30 -June1 30 30 29 -June1 26 fax(284)495-4184,[email protected],www.weyc.net 24 -31 WestEndYachtClub(WEYC),Tortola,BVI,tel(284)495-1002, 23 -27 23 -25 23 -25 22 22 21 -24 20 20 www.clipperroundtheworld.com 19 12 11 -16 11 11 10 -11 www.antiguanice.com/fish 9 -12 9 -11 8 -12 www.worldcruising.com 8 8 5 2 -11 2 1 -4 www.carib1500.com 1 1 1 R uoest alfo ol abu,Atga oPrua. ARCEuropesetssailfromJollyHarbour,Antigua,to Portugal. ArmisticeDay.PublicholidayinFrenchWestIndies WorldEnvironmentDay ArrivalofIoumoulicoCaribCanoeProjectatScott’s Head,Dominica WestMarineAtlanticCupsetssailfromTortola,BVI toBermuda. AscensionDay.PublicholidayinsomeFrenchand Dutchislands MayDay/LabourDay.Publicholidayinmanyplaces All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledgeattimethisissue ue’ itdy ulchldyi ehrad nils Queen’sBirthday.PublicholidayinNetherlandsAntilles. NationalHeroes’Day.PublicholidayinBarbados GuadeloupetoAntiguaRace.YachtClub(AYC), DeclarationofIndependenceDay.PublicholidayinVenezuela Earth FULL VirginQueenPizzaPursuitRace,BVI.RoyalBritishIslandsYacht Day MOON Clean-UpDive,Bonaire AnguillaDay.Publicholidayin IndianArrival Day.PublicholidayinTrinidad&Tobago Memorial Day. PublicholidayinPuertoRicoandUSVI Emancipation Day.PublicholidayinMartinique CorpusChristi. Publicholidayinmanyplaces IndependenceDay.PublicholidayinCuba ClipperRoundtheWorldRacestopoveratPortAntonio,Jamaica. FULL WhitMonday.Publicholidayinmanyplaces MOON Mothers’Day,PublicholidayinPuertoRico DutchAntillesWindsurfChallenge,Bonaire BigDrumFestival,UnionIsland,St.VincentGrenadines St.ThomasUSVICarnival.www.vicarnival.com 2dAtga&BruaSot ihn oraet 42ndAntigua&BarbudaSportsFishingTournament. AnguillaSailingFestival.www.anguillaregatta.com CanouanRegatta.SailingClub(784)458-8197 If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismevent listedFREEinourcalendar, St.BarthFilmFestival,Barts.www.stbarthff.org PlymouthJazzFestival,Tobago.www.tobagojazzfest.com CarriacouMaroonMusicFestival.www.grenadagrenadines.com/fest.html AntiguaClassicYachtRegatta.SEEADONPAGE8 CuraçaoInternationalKiteFestival.www.curacaokites.com CuraçaoDiveFestival.www.curacaodive.com AroundGuadeloupeRace.http://triskellcup.com BVIMusicFestival,Tortola.www.bvimusicfest.net 34thAnnualFoxy’sWoodenBoatRegatta,JostVanDyke, 4thAnnualBonaireJazzFestival.www.bonairenet.com AngosturaTobagoSailWeek.www.sailweek.com BVIDinghyChampionships,RBVIYC Banana’sCupRegatta,[email protected] TriskellTrophyRegatta,Guadeloupe.www.triskellcup.com BVI SpringRegatta,Tortola.www.bvispringregatta.org Le CombatdeCoquesRegatta,Martinique.ClubNautiqueduMarin St. LuciaJazzFestival.www.stluciajazz.org Compass please sendthenameanddate(s)of eventandthename 41stStanfordAntiguaSailingWeek.www.sailingweek.com 4thZooRegatta,Gosier,Guadeloupe.www.zoo-regatta.com MountGayBoatyardRegatta,[email protected] St.MaartenCarnival.www.stmaartencarnival.com and contactinformationoftheorganizing bodyto wenttopress—butplanschange,sopleasecontact event organizersdirectlyforconfirmation. CALENDAR [email protected]

APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 checked the CBP website (http://www. readers have recent first-hand experience Normally, Rains reports, at the height of cruising sea- reports, at the height of cruising Normally, Rains fees for yachts On March 1st, the ACP increased the increased fees for For more information about US? New Requirements for Cruising “noonsite” website In February, Jimmy Cornell’s Compass —Continued on next page day. He said yachts begin transit only on Mondays, begin transit only on day. He said yachts on Tuesdays, and Fridays — finishing only Wednesdays Saturdays. Thursdays and be transit- to 60 yachts per week would son, about 40 about 18 schedule allows for only ing, but the new told Another agent, Tina McBride, yachts per week. on both marinas and yacht clubs Rains that all the with boats Canal were packed ends of the Panama waiting to transit. Yacht fees went up and ships to transit the canal. ship fees increased eight about seven percent, and possible new pilot- percent. The ACP also announced March 1st if certain “defi- age fees for yachts starting as “inadequate sanitary ciencies” were found, such if the boat’s head facilities” on board (for example, the pilot) or if the yacht’s was not available for use by to relay the pilot’s line handlers “show an inability instructions.” visit www.pancanal.com yachts, called “hand lines,” Shipping N-1-2008. and review Marine Notice to (www.noonsite.com/Members/doina/R2008-02-07-1) new rules affecting received a report about possible the USA. According to foreign-flagged vessels visiting entry into the country, noonsite’s source, after initial foreign-flagged yachts must now report to CBP (Customs and Border Protection, part of the Department of Homeland Security) each time they move from one port to another, or even from one berth or marina to another within one port. cbp.gov/xp/cgov) but found no recent news on this subject. Noonsite suggests that on arrival in the US, all foreign-flagged yachts should find out from the CBP officer who clears them what the reporting requirements are while sailing in that country. Do any Compass with this? Yachts have been experiencing long waits to transit the Panama Canal

ALECIO Yacht transit agent Pete Stevens told Rains that, Pete Stevens told Rains Yacht transit agent Owing to a higher than usual number of transiting Owing to a higher than usual Canal (ACP) has ships, the Authority of Panama to begin transit through begun allowing only six yachts from the Pacific side the canal per day: three starting The ACP is scheduling and three from the Caribbean. so they must anchor yachts only for two-day transits, down-lock the following overnight in Gatun Lake and The (www.thelog.com): “Dozens of cruis- (www.thelog.com): “Dozens

Panama Canal Backlog Rains reported in On March 20th, Captain Pat [1500 words. Wilfred, if this needs a filler, let me Wilfred, if this needs a filler, [1500 words.

& Updates & Info Log Newspaper Panama Canal are ing yachts trying to transit the weeks. And because of a being delayed at least four ships, the scheduling backlog of at least a hundred get worse.” delays are only expected to APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 night, when ARC crewscameacrossit,oneatclosequarters which wascatchingupfromastern. taking partintheracingdivisionofARCrally, doned toaliferaftandwerepickedupbySwan discovered crackingofthechainplates.Theyaban- and FrancesWellerfromNorthernIrelandwhenthey Antigua on28February. Atlantic. Shewassalvagedandtakenashorein ued todriftuntilitreachedtheothersideof As manyofussuspectedatthetime,boatcontin- because hercrewjudgedindangerofdismasting. Corsair abandonedmid-AtlanticinDecember remember thestoryof blog/elaine_bunting.html) onMarch14th:“Youmay reported onherblog(www.yachtingworld.com/yw/ the 11-yeardrugsentence. terms forthefirearms,whichwillrunconcurrentlywith Barbados magistrategaveMooretwosix-yearjail Magnum. Atotalof135bulletswerealsorecovered. Majesty’s prisonsintheislandsincethen. detained. MoorehasbeenonremandinHer west coast.Adaylater,heandtheothermanwere and thenanchoreditoffSt.Jamesparish,alsoonthe marina onthenorthwesttipofBarbadosinMay2006, do athoroughsearchofthecraft. boat’s bilgeafterBarbadianauthoritiesthreatenedto bags ofthedrugfromunderaholdingtankin early March,Moore,fromKeyLargo,retrievedthe were carrying. police saytheyfoundinabagheandanotherman Bds$57,000 (US$28,500)andUS$4,630cashBarbadian ed. TerryWayneMoore,35,alsohadtoforfeit US-registered 30-footercalled tion hadbeenfoundonboard. (134 pounds)ofcocaineplusfirearmsandammuni- tenced to11yearsinjailonthatisland.Sixty-onekilos yacht intoBarbadostwoyearsagowasrecentlysen- WearelocatedinthesafeharborofWillemstad. services. other many and AWLGRIP®indoorspraypainting storage. Long-term - “When “The yachtcontinuedtofloatandseveralother “ Yachting World Abandoned The gunsseizedwereaGlock.40pistol,and.357 Moore hadsailedtheboatintoPortSt.Charles According totestimonyinaBridgetowncourt The yacht—accordingtosomereportsa Norman Fariareports:AFloridamanwhosaileda Coke Adds…11years — Phone: +(5999)4658936 Fax:4658941 Email: [email protected] Barbary Duck Continued frompreviouspage New marine center presents the latest Dutch innovation in boat handling equipment. New marinecenterpresentsthelatestDutchinnovationinboathandling equipment. Barbary Duck Curaçao Marine Barbary Duck Duck wasabandonedbyownersJohn magazineeditorElaineBunting ReachesAntigua Hauling capacity45tonsandCatamaransupto33ftbeam. wasfoundoffAntiguashehad Barbary Duck wasunlit…. Leyla —wasconfiscat- , theWesterly Safe dry storage with 24 hours security Safe drystoragewith24hourssecurity of January 2008issueof soundly afloatoffAnguillainearlyMarch2007,the in mid-AtlanticonDecember11th,2006,andarrived 35 up, oneintheCaribbeanandotherAzores.” not scuttledduringthe2006ARCwhichlaterwashed process ofbeingsalvaged. looted. Shealsosustainedtopsidesdamageinthe boarded previously,asalotofequipmenthadbeen had broken.Sheobviouslybeenfoundand thought, thoughbythenthetopsectionofmast not dismastedfromthechainplates,aswaspreviously Norman FariareportedintheNovember2007issue What’s WiththeWindjammers? John BurniereportedonthesearchforBavaria “This casefollowstwootheryachtsabandonedbut Compass Arnolf , whichwasabandonedduetorudderfailure : ”Uptopresstimeinmid-October,efforts Compass www.curacaomarine.com . Grenada, intheheydayoffleet windjammers linedthewharfatSt.George’s, Long apartoftheCaribbeansailingscene, countries thatdonotrequirelegaldisclosure.” of thecompanyisinhandsoverseasagents mation aboutWindjammerCruisesbecausesomuch ship guide,writes:“Itisveryhardtofindsolidlegalinfor- CruiseMates (www.cruisemates.com),anonlinecruise- September oflastyear.PaulMotter,editor Caribbean fleetoftallshipshasnotoperatedsince financial sandbanks.”What’shappenedsincethen? based WindjammerBarefootCruisesoffapparent were ongoingtotryandgetthe60-year-oldFlorida- —Continuedonnextpage It’s hardtofindout.Windjammer’soncepopular APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 we welcome Yachts are invited to join CaribCanoeWarriors/. Be CaribCanoeWarriors/. part of the welcoming team and celebrate in an old-time Koné Konla Welcome Feast on May 2nd in Scott’s Head/ Soufriere. The following morning, try your hand at paddling these canoes in the waters of the bay or take part in local Dominican canoe races. Dominican historian Dr. Lennox Honychurch and two history professors from Université Antilles-Guyane in Martinique, Thierry L’Etang and Benoit Berard, will be there to explain the historical context of this project. the flotilla which will accompany the two canoes from Friday morning to Friday afternoon from Grande Riviere in Martinique to Scott’s Head. All events are free of charge. Caribbean Compass Dominica’s indigenous Kalinago tribe has been invit- Kalinago tribe has Dominica’s indigenous For more information visit www.dominicaheritage. ‘Mister Baker’, Who Are You? Will the kind gentleman who recently sent in the Welcome Aboard! In this issue of Caribbean chain of islands from South America. Caribbean chain man two to send 15 paddlers to help ed by KARISKO as These “Carib Canoe Warriors”, 25-man canoes. every week have been training they call themselves, in a smaller, Marigot and Atkinson in the seas between canoe- Carib canoe built by master riskier eight-man http:// “Napoleon” Sanford. (See builder Emmanuel picasaweb.google.com/mixx777/ org and http://www.karisko.org great oven-free boat bread recipe please contact [email protected]. I lost your name! aboard new advertiser Jordan Boats of the UK on page 51. Good to have you with us! The re-enactment of the voyage on the May Day New Carib Canoe Project New Carib Canoe Ioumoulico reports: On May 2nd, the Hubert Winston Dominican Kalinago paddlers are practicing for May’s re-enactment KARISKO Association in Martinique aims to recreate the very first arrival of the Kalinago people to the shores of Dominica. holiday weekend will commemorate how the pre- Columbian Kalinago people paddled up the the major resources offered include the biggest list of offered include the biggest the major resources an enormous on the Internet, boat owners’ associations “fixer- and the ever-popular list of marine suppliers, than US$5,000 with boats offered for less uppers” page and free! by the Crossing project launched Carib Canoe , is report- . Some of Legacy , is due in book- Yankee Clipper, Yankee Clipper, . have been held in port and have been held . Will the historic Windjammer Will the historic be revived? Barefoot fleet www.goodoldboat.com magazine has recently posted an Mandalay Around the Next Bend and Continued from previous page Continued from Cruisers’ Site-ings Long-time cruisers Bernie and Yvonne Katchor are The February edition of the Caribbean Sailing Good Old Boat — venerable Meanwhile, the underway again, and Bernie’s new book of cruising adventures, all-new website at es on the company’s website, as of this writing, Windjammer has neither refunded many passengers’ payments for a number of cruises that never happened, nor scheduled any future cruises. Association (CSA) newsletter reports that the CSA website is being updated to be even more informative than ever. Check out the progress at www.caribbean-sailing.com stores this month. See their website at www.berniekatchor.com Polynesia in the fleet, the newer only one ship promis- Despite repeated edly legally unencumbered. APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 Read inNextMonth’s

The Ever-EvolvingCulebra Regatta My BoatisTooUglyto Steal! Amazing IleàVache,Haiti Compass andmore! : paid attheportsservedbyGeest(St.Lucia, Barbados,Dominica,St.Vincent, checking GeestLine’sfreightrates,herealized thatkitscouldbedeliveredduty- there inDecember,foundagreatdealof interestinhisfive-year-oldbusiness.After can supplyaplywoodcomponentkitto getyoustarted. yacht, aday-sailer,powerboat,oreven a cruisingyacht,UK-basedJordanBoats Northern Lightsseeadonpage28. Northern Lightgeneratorsets. are measurablyquieterthancomparablemodels.” keeping customercomfortattheforefront,weareabletobuildgeneratorsetsthat gle-piece, cast-ironexpansiontank/exhaustmanifoldswhichminimizeenginenoise. which dramaticallyreducenoiseresultingfromthetransmissionofvibration,andsin- 1800 RPMat60Hz).OtherkeycontributorstoNorthernLights’quietdesignaremounts Lights generatorsetsarebuilttorunat1500RPMintheir50Hzapplications(amodest erator iscomparedtoanother.” for whichweusedthesymbol sound levelsmeasuredshouldnotbeseenasabsolutevaluesbutrelativevalues, the M673LD2,atfewerthan66dBA.VictronEnergynotesinreportthat“the electrical load.ThesecondquietestmachinetestedwasalsoaNorthernLights— Northern LightsM773LW2wasdeemedthequietest,atlessthan65dBAwithno 1500-3000 RPM). Energy. Marinegeneratorsetsweretestedat10kWandbelow(50Hzratings, are thequietest. world’s mostprominentbuilders.Theconclusionregardingnoise:NorthernLightssets is pleasedtoreporttheresultsofamajormarinegeneratortestthatincluded sored byBudgetMarine. The annualpartyistoopenthefirstdayofracingforHeinekenRegatta,spon- has servedontheboardofSt.MaartenMarineTradesassociationforthreeyears. industry. Mike,ownerofNAPAandaformercommissionerintheislandgovernment, between theSintMaartengovernment,manylocalestablishmentsandmarine Ferrier whohasexcelledinprovidingbettercommunicationandunderstanding particularly pleasedtoawardtheMarineProfessionalofYearAward2007Mike Velasquez, ErnstLooser,RobbieGilders,KevinGavinandJeffBoyd. particularly outstandingassettotheindustry.PreviouswinnersareSirBobby als fortheircontributions,andannuallygivesanawardtoapersonwhohasbeen ernment. BudgetMarine,beinghighlyinvolved,ishappytorecognizekeyindividu- work hardincommunicatingtheimportanceofindustrytopublicandgov- and offeringgreatfinancialcontributionstotheisland.Everyyear,manypeople Marine ProfessionaloftheYear2007wasrecentlypresentedtoMikeFerrier. been takinganactiveinterestinyachtingconcerns. who attendedtheFortLauderdaleInternationalBoatShowinOctoberlastyear,has back aboutsomeoftheissuesaffectingyacht-basedvisitors.PrimeMinisterKing, first handtheimportanceofluxuryyachtindustrytoSt.Luciaandhearfeed- Charles DuGas-Standish.ThevisitaffordedthePrimeMinisteropportunitytosee aboard thevisiting208-footmotoryacht, to payavisitMarigotBayinFebruarythemarinawithhisfiancéeandgo ideal year-rounddestination,notjustaplacefortheholidays. Bob Hathaway.HewasalsokeentoemphasizethattheMarinaatMarigotBayisan owners andchartergueststorivalSt.BarthsMustique,”saidMarinaManager docks wellintoFebruary. and NewYearperiod,butitcontinuedtoseealargenumberofbigboatsonits yachts. Notonlydidthemarinaenjoy100-percentoccupancyoverChristmas son whenitwelcomedarecord-breakingnumberofsuper-yachtsandmega- BUSINESS BRIEFS Proprietor AlecJordanspentmuchofhis childhoodinSt.Lucia,andafterreturning If youhaveeverthoughtaboutbuilding your ownboat,whetheratenderfor Boat KitsfortheCaribbean For thefullstudyvisitvictronenergy.com/generatortest/.moreinformationon Northern Lightssoundenclosuresareoneofmanyoptionsthatfurthercustomize Said Puckett,“Byusingthebestpossiblecomponents,keepingrevolutionslowand Independent testingprovesthatthequietestgensetsrunat1500RPM.AllNorthern The onlytwoNorthernLightstestedprovedtobethequietest. Of the19generatorsetstestedfromworld’spre-eminentmanufacturers, In 2007,anindependentlycertifiedtest(byTUV-EPS)wascommissionedbyVictron Northern Lights/Lugger,aworld-renownedmanufacturerofmarinegeneratorsets, Northern LightsTestsQuietest For moreinformationonBudgetMarineseeadpage2. The awardwaspresentedonMarch5th,duringapartyhostedbyBudgetMarine. Budget Marine,incollaborationwiththeSintMaartenMarineTradesAssociationis The marineindustryonSt.Maartenisattractingmoreyachts,providingjobs, Robbie andMicheleFerronreport:TheBudgetMarineAwardforSt.Maarten’s St. Maarten’sMarineProfessionaloftheYear For moreinformationonTheMarinaatMarigotBayseeadpage26. The HonourablePrimeMinisterStephensonKingtooktimeoutofhisbusyschedule “The MarinaatMarigotBaybecameaNewYeardestinationformega-yacht The MarinaatMarigotBay,StLucia,celebratedabumper2007/2008festivesea- Bumper SeasonforMarigot,St.Lucia Δ dBA, showinghowmuchmoreorlessnoisyonegen- Polar Star , foratourandchatwithcaptain —Continued onnextpage APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 to enjoy the last day of the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta. Carpe Diem Continued from previous page Continued from For details on the race visit clipperroundtheworld.com. For more information on For more information on Sweet Cry Freedom see ad on this page. Round the World Race to Make Jamaica Stop Errol Flynn Marina in Port Antonio, Jamaica, will be buzzing starting May 19th when It is with great expectations that persons from near and far look forward to seven The rebirth of Sweet Cry Freedom Festival in May 2007 was well worth the wait. An integral part of the festival was the presentation of the “Cry Freedom Award”, Between 1993 and 1997 a high-profile, international line-up of who’s who in vin- Antigua’s Sweet Cry Freedom Festival In the early 1990s, a music festival was staged in Antigua which became the For details visit www.horizonyachtcharters.com. New in Carriacou yachts, but a new Not only does Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou, offer free WiFi to visiting For more information contact [email protected] or [email protected]. For more information contact [email protected] Happy Birthday, Horizon! with all sorts of unique Horizon Yacht Charters is celebrating its 10th Anniversary Jeff Drake, Managing Director of Peters & May Ltd and Richard Klabbers Jeff Drake, Managing Director of Peters & May Ltd and For more information visit www.NoLimitsYachts.com. Special Regatta Transport Service a new joint venture Peters & May and Sevenstar Yacht Transport have announced The presented yacht is capable of speeds in the 80 mph range while maintaining The presented yacht is capable of speeds in the 80 mph Mystic Powerboats Inc. was founded in 1996 by John, a race boat pilot, and has Mystic Powerboats Inc. was founded in 1996 by John, For more information see ad on page 51. For more information see ad New Power Yacht for St. Maarten’s No Limits Power Boats in Florida, Recently appointed Caribbean representative for Mystic For the Caribbean market, the kits are priced in both US dollars and Sterling. Kits For the Caribbean market, Jordan’s website has a page giving fuller information for Eastern Caribbean cus- Jordan’s website has a page As the kits shipped from the UK include only the plywood parts, Jordan is making As the kits shipped from the The kits are constructed using either the stitch-and-tape method, made famous by method, made using either the stitch-and-tape The kits are constructed Jordan works with prominent small-boat designers to provide kits for their designs, designers to provide kits for with prominent small-boat Jordan works Errol Flynn Marina see ad on page 20. the participants in the Clipper ’Round the World Race start rolling in. Ten 68-foot yachts are racing, including a Jamaican entry. The racers will be enjoying several days of R&R after their leg from Panama and prior to heading for New York. As this is their only stopover in the Caribbean, Errol Flynn Marina is honored to host the fleet. days of entertainment surrounding Antigua’s Sailing Week 2008, culminating in the musical climax that is Sweet Cry Freedom Festival ’08, scheduled for May 2nd and 3rd. This year, plans are for SCF ’08 to be re-located to the English Harbour area — even more convenient for the regatta-goers to attend! Title-sponsored by the Ministry of Tourism, from the opening acts — Flora Haywood, Swallow, General P, Etana and Teflon — to the current stars of today — Macka Diamond, Freddie McGregor, Barrington Levy, Shurwayne Winchester & Traffik and Cham — dynamic performances by all these artists brought to a climax the 40th Anniversary of the Stanford Antigua Sailing Week. which was presented in person to Stevie Wonder in 1997. Professor Hilary Beckles received the award in 2007. Third World, Osibisa, and the Right Honorable Vere Cornwall Bird Sr., among others, received awards in the past. tage and popular music from across the Diaspora performed at the festival, including Arrow, David Rudder, and the reggae ambassadors Third World; dancehall champions Buju Banton and Beenie Man; reggae crooners Beres Hammond and Diana King; Creole heavyweight Kassav; plus soca’s super-bands Square One, Atlantik and Burning Flames, among many more. model for the various music festivals that have proliferated across the Caribbean. laundry has opened next to the Alexis Supermarket. It’s open Monday to Saturday laundry has opened next to the Alexis Supermarket. It’s fold service. A book and 0700 to 1800, offering speedy hot-water wash, dry and DVD swap is also offered. Caribbean charter package specials. Managing Director of Sevenstar stated: “Yacht racing programmes are notoriously Managing Director of Sevenstar stated: “Yacht racing and fragile. Efficient logistics complex and time crucial, and their equipment costly in-depth industry knowl- management in this arena requires experience, skill and with a service where one edge. Our new joint service will provide the customer phone call does it all.” to provide specialised logistics for the yacht racing community. This initiative will pro- to provide specialised logistics for the yacht racing community. logistics package offering vide racing teams and yachting associations with a total refit work and multi-destina- global solutions for yacht transport, spares positioning, tion racing programmes. maximum comfort and safety. specialized in the design, engineering and construction of high-performance power- specialized in the design, engineering and construction individual owners, the com- boats. Working with both production boatbuilders and outboard centre consoles pany has created a wide variety of boats from 60+ mph models are designed in- to 200+ mph turbine-powered offshore catamarans. All house with a full-time staff of engineers. yacht broker No Limits Yachts in St. Maarten - St. Martin, presented a new power yacht broker No Limits Yachts in St. Maarten - St. Martin, press and guests joined yacht on March 8th. Members of the local and International the new 70-foot fast power owner Stew Leonard and builder John Cosker aboard yacht for established designs can normally be landed in the West Indies about four to five normally be landed in the West Indies about four to five for established designs can payment for the order, depending on the weeks after Jordan receives can get together with friends to include Geest Line schedule. If you significant savings can be more than one kit in an order, made in the shipping costs. tomers, and much information about building, particularly the clinker ply method. If about building, particularly the clinker ply method. tomers, and much information about stitch-and-tape, Jordan has produced a DVD. you want more information contact with timber suppliers in the Caribbean to supply the other wooden compo- contact with timber suppliers varnish, paint and standard fittings can be nents required. Supplies of epoxy, in the Caribbean. If you want special brass and obtained from the local chandlers arrange shipment of these parts from the UK, as well gunmetal fittings, Jordan can bronze fixings. as stainless steel and silicon the Mirror Dinghy, or clinker ply/glued lapstrake, which simulates the classic clinker which simulates the or clinker ply/glued lapstrake, the Mirror Dinghy, used for the kits is BS1088 Lloyds Type Approved gaboon/ construction. The plywood can also be cut in mahogany or the beautiful sapele okoume marine plywood. Kits ply at additional cost. with nearly 60 different designs set up as kits, and several more in preparation. If kits, and several more in preparation. different designs set up as with nearly 60 kit for your cho- Jordan can create a new designs does not suit, one of the current Iain of kits include Selway Fisher, in Jordan’s portfolio sen design. Designers as required. made with other designers Dix Design. Agreements are Oughtred, and — shipping to at about the same price as St Kitts and Trinidad) …Grenada, Antigua, European destinations. APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 THAN AMARINA:IT’SHOME! IT’S MUCHMORE Visit ourwebsite:www.sbmarina.biz E-mail:[email protected] Over andoveragainourguestsrefertomarinaastheir“Home”! We monitorVHFchannels16&79A(alpha –Americansystem) • P.O. Box4540,AirportRoad,SintMaarten, N.A.,Caribbean Wirelessinternet,banksandlaundry withinthecomplex Join usthissummerandcontinuetoenjoythehospitality. • Pick-upanddrop-offfrommajorsupermarkets • Electricity: 220V/ 50amp; 110V/300amps Electricity:220V/50amp;110V/300amps Tel: 599-5442309Fax:599-5443378 (single phaseandthreephase) • FreesatelliteTVateachslip • • Fueldockandbunkering 120concreteslipberths WE OFFER: • Telephonehook-up • • Showerfacilities 24hoursecurity • 16ftchannel Grenada 6:00 of EasternCaribbeanStates(OECS). in andaroundthemarinepark.BothwerethankstosupportofOrganization the startofaprojectaimedatpromotingsustainablelivelihoodsforpersonsworking Cays MarinePark’snewpatrolvessel.Thesecondwasthepublicannouncementof two “launchings”onMarch8th.ThefirstwastheofficialhandingoverofTobago LAUNCHINGS CELEBRATES TWO MARINE PARK TOBAGO CAYS Fond Françaispourl’EnvironmentMondial. by theGlobalEnvironmentalFund, OrganizationofAmericanStatesandthe taken insixOECSmembercountriesas partoftheOPAALProject,whichisfunded lihoods sustainably. feeling ofownershipfortheparktomotivate themtoprotectitbyearningtheirlive- Terrence OllivierreaddedthattheSouthern Grenadinescommunitymusthavea near aprotectedareaarebestsuitedto protectingit.ParliamentaryRepresentative financial sources,andin-kindcontributions fromtheprivatesector. Associated Livelihoods(OPAAL)Project,andwillalsobenefitfromin-houseTCMP of theTobagoCays.TheprojectisfundedbyOECSProtectedAreas and alternative livelihoods,therebyreducingnegativeimpactsonthenaturalresources reduce unsustainablelivelihoodpracticesintheTCMPbypromotingsustainable for low-incomehouseholdsintheSouthernGrenadines.Theprojectisexpected to year projectaimedatprovidingenvironmentallyfriendlyemploymentopportunities formal launchingoftheTobagoCaysSustainableLivelihoodsProject.Thisisathree- law enforcement,moreefficiently.Regularpatrolsarenowdonefrom6:00 will enableTCMPrangerstomanagetheday-to-dayoperationsofpark,including bimini top,ispoweredbytwin200-horsepowerMercuryoutboards.Thisfastvessel Youth inActionevokeSouthernGrenadines’pride Below: AtthelaunchingofSustainableLivelihoodsProject,UnionIslandCultural Above: Afterthehanding-overceremony,newparkpatrolboatgoesforaspin The harborsidetownofCliftononUnionIslandintheGrenadineswassite The TobagoCaysSustainableLivelihoods Projectisthefirstinaseriestobeunder- At thelaunching,TCMPChairmanFr.Andrew Roachenotedthatthoselivinginor Following thehandingoverofpatrolboatfromOECStoTCMPwas The newparkpatrolvessel,acenter-consoleBostonWhalerlaunchwithhigh PM , withstaffworkingtowardeventualround-the-clockpatrols. AM

to DONALD DE RIGGS DE DONALD APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 , in the Sojana Something Hot , was named the BVI Yacht Charters , after their boat was dismasted early in , after their boat was dismasted , in the Racing category and to , in the Racing category and Tryst , who selflessly invited aboard fellow Multihull , who selflessly invited aboard Aquarius Triple Jack on her way to winning first overall in the Sojana , which dominated the tough Spinnaker 1 class with a perfect series of five , which dominated the tough For complete results visit www.heinekenregatta.com. For complete results visit Saturday’s race-course was from a Simpson Bay start to the Anguilla Channel Bay start to the Anguilla was from a Simpson Saturday’s race-course the Anguilla Bay and sailed into 9th, boats started at Marigot On Sunday the The CBBS Cups, presented to the high scorers in the Caribbean Big Boat Series, to the high scorers in the Caribbean Big Boat Series, The CBBS Cups, presented and public from both sides of the island were the Happy organizers, competitors is and enjoying the Heineken Regatta weekend Even if you do not race, coming The big Farr ketch Maarten Heineken 2008 Caribbean Big Boat Series’ Racing/Cruising Class at St. a Beneteau 473. And the winner of the St. Maarten/Saint Martin Cup for Most winner of the St. Maarten/Saint Martin Cup for Most a Beneteau 473. And the 52, was awarded to Benny Kelly and the crew of the TP Worthy Performance Overall Racing/Cruising class. Phil Otis’s Cyclades 50, Racing/Cruising class. Phil Top Bareboat Charter Boat in the fleet. The Spirit and Style Award went to Richard in the fleet. The Spirit and Style Award went to Richard Top Bareboat Charter Boat Woodridge and the crew of buoys and back to Marigot Bay on the French side of the island for a French-touch side of the island for to Marigot Bay on the French buoys and back square of Marigot village. fête on the main ceremo- the closing party and prizegiving the finish at Simpson Bay, Channel. After at Kim Sha beach. ny were held went to Sam Fleet’s Swan 601, went to Sam Fleet’s Swan 601, Panthera of the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta. conclusion to this 28th edition cruising the Caribbean should experience at least once. something any yachtsman Come and join in 2009! consecutive wins. the regatta. The Heineken Fun prize went to the crew of the bareboat the regatta. The Heineken Fun 1 class competitors from the trimaran 1 class competitors from the , a Bruce Sojana ST. MAARTEN HEINEKEN REGATTA 2008 HEINEKEN ST. MAARTEN See this month’s “Regatta News” on

by Stéphane Legendre

] 28th Edition

Record-Breaking Record-Breaking

oming to St. Maarten for the largest sailing event of the Caribbean is always oming to St. Maarten for the to. The obvious questions every visitor has something a sailor looks forward this year? Am I going to see some exciting new in mind are: How many boats C On Thursday the 6th, the “Budget Marine Commodores Cup” was a prologue to the On Thursday the 6th, the “Budget Marine Commodores Now a little about the races: wind. Breezes were stron- Weather conditions were excellent, with sunshine and The St. Maarten Yacht Club was the strategic place to be for more than one rea- The St. Maarten Yacht Club was the strategic place to and finished inside Great Friday’s Round the Island Race started at Simpson Bay Being familiar with sailing events, I always think of the organizational effort Being familiar with sailing events, I always think “It’s great to have a record number: it shows we’re doing something right,” said “It’s great to have a record number: it shows we’re doing Again this year I was not let down, as the organizers announced 280 boats regis- Again this year I was not let www.caribbeancompass.com regatta and did not count for the final results. [ gest on the Friday, reaching 25 knots and slowly diminishing through the event — gest on the Friday, reaching 25 knots and slowly diminishing perfect for everyone. page 14 for a report. son. First, this was the meeting place for everyone. Even if you were not expecting if you were not expecting son. First, this was the meeting place for everyone. Even stage and enjoy a beer anyone, you were sure to bump into a friend at some important, were the bridge (Heineken of course) and good food. Second, and more yachts are not your cup opening times and leaving/entering boats. Even if motor their captains’ skill coming of tea, watching those mega-yachts and observing side, is quite something. Even through the bridge, where little space is left on each coming through, their more interesting for us was to admire the racing machines That’s an example of the relaxed crews saluting us warmly as they entered. Heineken Regatta conviviality. by a wonderful party on Bay, a fast and rough course, very exciting, followed Philipsburg’s waterfront promenade. involved, in terms of coordination both on land and on the water. From what I could involved, in terms of coordination both on land and on this year, although organizing observe, there were very few complaints on the water exciting evening festivities in around 20 class starts each day is not easy! Providing was another challenge, three different locations ashore, with good water-taxi service, everything with extreme avail- but a very efficient group of volunteers took care of regatta’s duration. Renowned ability and smiling friendliness, right through the each evening: Intwine from musicians from the Caribbean entertained the crowds from Antigua and, to conclude Sint Maarten, Alison Hinds from Barbados, El A Kru Lover himself, they say…). on the Sunday, the famous Shaggy from Jamaica (Mister Robbie Ferron, the chairman of the regatta’s steering committee. “But our emphasis Robbie Ferron, the chairman of the regatta’s steering I like to think we’re doing that has never been about getting bigger, only better. And as well.” tered for the March 6th through 9th event. This was a new record number of entries, 9th event. This was a new record number of entries, tered for the March 6th through bareboats. That means all participants, whatever their of which 128 were rented are allowed to really compete. Boats ranged from sailing skills or financial means, Peter Harrison’s superb 115-foot ketch the smallest “beach cats“ to as More than ten Swans, half a dozen Beneteau 40.7s, Farr design from the UK. others, turned up to compete. many J/boats and five Gunboat catamarans, among Difficult to remember all the beautiful boats I saw! sailing machines? Will there be talented crews from which we can learn by observing be talented crews from which we can learn by observing sailing machines? Will there or starts? maneuvering skills at buoy-roundings APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 One andTwo,then Bloody Mary the UKandGermany. USA, Canada,Antigua,Grenada,Barbados,Trinidad, seven Surprises. based Hobie33’swinwasinaclassthatincluded of mainlyMartinique-basedboats.TheGrenada- place withthreebulletsinakeenlycompetitivefleet Szyjan puthislocalknowledgetogoodusecoptop Benjamin Todd,waswelldeserved. places. Thevictoryof Bequia, St.LucianJ/24sdominatedthetopthree came fromTrinidad&Tobago,Grenada,Barbadosand in asouthernCaribbeanregatta.AlthoughJ/24s Class wasanewhighforone-designkeelboatclass the turnoutof11 with afun-filledLayDayincluded,ofcourse. 24th. Oneraceadaymadeupthethree-raceregatta, brilliant sailingweatherfromMarch21stthrough of thebestever!Andasidefromthatgroundsea,itwas ble-enders madethisyear’sBequiaEasterRegattaone and neck-and-neckracinginthefamousBequiadou- number ofentriesintheinternationalyachtdivision Regatta mightevenbecancelled,arecord-breaking tant unfoundedrumorthatthisyear’sBequiaEaster really swell YACHT TURN-OUT RECORD-BREAKING and 17seconds,followedlessthan15minuteslaterby Gillet —roundingtheislandintwohours,11minutes saw CSA Ratedclasses.Thenail-bitingcombat island. TheyweredividedintoCSARatedandNon- an impressive16soloskipperstoracearoundthe Handed RaceontheEasterSundayLayDayattracted the topslotsoverallinthisclass. enough toshake tively. Nevertheless,thelastday’sresultsweren’t Hot Chocolate schooner grabbed awaythetopspotandAntigua-based and Hot Chocolate around-the-buoys coursepresentdifferentchallenges? and thenacircumnavigationofBequia,didthefinal race fromAdmiraltyBaytoFriendshipandback, and athirdplacetotakefirstinthelastrace.After Cruising ClassIwasexciting,with In thetwoCruisingClasses,boatscamefrom In theRacingClass,formerBequiaresidentRichard Forty-five yachtsweredividedintofourclasses,and Despite anunusuallylargegroundseaandaresul- Dare wesaythatdespitetheseasurge,itwas… Although itdidn’tcountintheseries,aSingle- Cruising IIalsosawupsetsintheMondayrace.With Hallucine Appleseeds Yacht at Rest [email protected] Telephone: +1954-525-8707 DYT USA

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regional competitors Regatta’s 2005event,attracted11enthusiastic Above: TheJ/24Class,establishedatBequiaEaster Right: Trinidad’srenownedRawleBarrowatthehelmof Ministry ofTourism,YouthandSports,Digicel, Gay andPepsi(BottlersLtd.St.Vincent),theSVG main sponsorsHeineken(St.VincentBrewery),Mount ed byRawleSealyoftheBarbadosYachtClub. James BenoitandWayneFrankfromGrenada,assist- rected timeforfirstplace. Yann Lecamon BEQUIA EASTERREGATTA2008 The BequiaSailingClubwouldliketothanktheir All yachtracesweresmoothlyrunbyRaceOfficer

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Marmaris PHOTOS: WILFRED DEDERER WILFRED PHOTOS: APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13

tek win, second Cloudy by ah does go Bluff Confusion Bluff placed Confusion Confusion Cloudy Bay Confusion tek de honours, , like if she draggin’ fish- in de lead. Dey turn de cay in de lead. Dey turn de cay But not to be. She get she act Bluff beatin’ out come back!). Well, dem start come back!). Well, dem start downwind to West Cay, Bay leave dem rest bundle up under Cay dey. Up de track to Semple mark, all dem boat gone leave Bluff pot. Ah swear to God she hook to up somet’ing an’ ah say meself, she dead today! together. Dem rest boat gone: she tack an’ come to de shore an’ leave dem goin’ south. When dem come back, all boat together — what ah race! On de road line wid vehicle. People fo’ so. Everybody shoutin’ an’ whis- tlin’. I in de boat so ah can’t tell who backin’ who. But ah know ah lot ah bettin’ goin’ on: somebody go’ cry later! Tack fo’ tack, dem boat go round de Semple Cay mark makin’ room fo’ each other. T’ings hot today! Downwind now an’ ah fight back up to de Hamilton mark an’ what ah fight it was. Ah can’t explain it on paper, only wid me mouth. But nose! Ah could tell yo’, is one ah de best races an’ closest finishes ah have ever seen. An’ dat’s ah fact. —Continued on page 41 third. Ah forget to mention dat third. Ah forget to mention

ALL PHOTOS: WILFRED DEDERER in de lead but not fo’ long. in de lead but third. join de fleet today. Braveheart Confusion Cloudy Bay Sunday, weather nice, breeze nice, may de best man Sunday, weather nice, breeze lighter an’ de sun hot like Monday reach. Wind ah bit fightin’ fo’ de lead. Well, yo’ know fightin’ fo’ de boat got ah train, but today, dem downwind like pumpin’ Dem burnin’ ah lot ah energy, plenty steam. Upwind dey de reach to Adams mark. jib an’ main on come, over. She say yo’ had yo’ turn, my turn now. She get yo’ had yo’ turn, my turn over. She say de finish. in front an’ stay in front to an’ down West Cay, tri- (or boat) win. Start Friendship, end off Hamilton Point. Dey angle in Admiralty Bay an’ say de best man win so second an’ Perseverance dere real hot but ah don’t hell (dem preacher say down t’ink anybody ever go an’ believe dem because ah don’t second overall in Class 7 Main photo: Boats from Classes 1 and 2 demonstrating Main photo: Boats from Classes 1 and 2 demonstrating the traditional sprit rig’s ability to windward Inset left: Wayne Gooding’s pretty

Bluff, ; in Class was Confusion Class 5A is

; an’ Spank

an’ Bluff Braveheart . Class 1, 2 an’ 4 is boat Shamu, More Worries, Shamu, More Worries, Limbo Dance in Divine an’

; 5B is an’ helmed by his son Gladwyn and helmed by his son Gladwyn crew included members of New York’s Manhattan Yacht Club Lennox Taylor’s Iron Duke, Trouble Start 10:30, triangle off Paget Farm, two laps an’ ah BEQUIA EASTER REGATTA 2008 EASTER REGATTA BEQUIA much fo’ me to write. sausage. But boy, dem big boat start wid ah bang up to Hope Rock mark an’ down. from Canouan, Mayreau an’ Bequia an’ dem name too from Canouan, Mayreau an’ Shannalou, Dem Say Tornado, Nerissa J boat registered. In de 28-foot class, we got boat registered. In de 28-foot Bay Confusion, Braveheart, Cloudy 6 is HOT

by Orbin Ollivierre F D P G A P

T N E M E T’ings E R ' E B I A

R A #

Saturday is double-ender day, start at Friendship,

Easter Regatta, what ah slam! Two days before, all Easter Regatta, what ah slam! Double-Enders’ Class 7! Class Double-Enders’ finish off Paget Farm. Good breeze an’ clear sky, 28 finish off Paget Farm. Good breeze an’ clear sky, 28 Well, we got 45 yacht registered, ah record number. Well, we got 45 yacht registered, ah record number. Friday mornin’, weather fair to fine, breeze nice. boat sailin’, tryin’ dis an’ testin’ dat but de forecast look boat sailin’, tryin’ dis an’ testin’ say look out for 14- to like it go’ dampen t’ings. Dey Thursday night through 17-foot swells an’ gusty winds come an’ gone an’ ah ain’t Friday. But Thursday night ground swell in Lower Bay. see nothin’ more dan a little APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 NEWS REGATTA the twoSwan56s Barbuda thisspring. with planstotakechildrenGuadeloupeand with theAntiguaDukeofEdinburghAwardScheme the JuniorAchieversClub,isnowactivelyinvolved Jolly HarbourGolfClub.JHYC,alreadyworkingwith Regatta Evening,whichover200peopleattendedat helped withEC$2,000rafflemoneyraisedduringthe reports JHYCCommodoreBrianTurton. up tosixSwansbattlingitoutnextyearisawesome.” friends, wereatremendoussight,andthethoughtof including threebigSwanswhopromisetoreturnwith Budget MarineCaribbeanChandleries.“Theboats, the regatta,whichwassponsoredfor16thyearby Antigua. JollyHarbourYachtClubonceagainhosted Islands Harbour,locatednexttoJolly four classesinperfectweatherontheoutskirtsofFive held February16thand17thsaw20boatsracingin ‘The Swans…wereatremendoussight,andthethoughtofuptosixSwansbattlingitoutnextyearisawesome’ In RacingOneClass,abattlewasfoughtbetween The Club’sYouthDevelopmentProgrammewas The 16thAnnualBudgetMarineValentinesRegatta Sunshine andSwansLoveBudgetMarine Valentine’s Regatta Deneb and Albireo . Thecrewsrep- Cruising Class,ColinJones’ Sven Harder’s won overBernieWong’s Forrester on resented thetalentofAntigua(StanPearson/Neil came inthirdon Harbour withonlyafewyearsofracingunderhisbelt, Magic wins. SecondinthisclasswasGeoffreyPidduck skipper HansLammersrepeatedpreviousregatta 27-foot waterline) ner wastheRhodesBounty(41feetlongwitha by alittle-knownsailmaker.Theclassandoverallwin- an aluminummastandsailspastsell-bydate,made equipment. Butthewinnerwasalong-keelboatwith with carbonsails,mastsandthenewest The ten-boatclassincludedmanymoderndesigns races arewonbyequipmentandnotsailingskills. duced anunlikelywinnerforthosewhobelievethat Racer Classinwhichverycloseandmixedresultspro- able forCaribbeansailors. stantly interesting,challengingandstilleasilymanage- particularly enthusedtosponsorracingthatiscon- man RobbieFerronexplainedhowBudgetMarinewas ties. Attheprizegiving,BudgetMarineSponsorspokes- led anonshoreeventsteamthatproducedlivelypar- done theprotestsiftherehadbeenany.BrianTurton Solent directedtheracing,andWillRuddwouldhave offset buoy.RaceofficerStephenParryfromthe six tocount.Allraceswerewindward-leewardwithan ed bytheAntiguawin. lacked excitement,andthelocalcrowdwasdelight- was skipperedbyJohnBurnie).Theracingnever However, themostcompetitiveclasswasCruiser Three raceswererunoneachday,givingatotalof In RacingTwoClass,ShawnMaloneon , andRickGormley,themodestsailorfromJolly Deneb Flying Tiger Elethea Sunshine ) andthatofGuadeloupe( . High Tensionb-mobile . Inconstantclosecombatin , whoseskilledcrewand Cydia tookthehonours. Likkle Hugo Albireo and Biwi

JODY SALLONS-DAY JODY Jenny and IanHope-Ross’sBeneteauFirst36s7 ered and broach. Happily,thesoakedsailorwasswiftlyrecov- a crewmanwentintothedrinkafteryetanother sections and,worse,aman-overboardsituationwhen but twofiredrills:aspinnakerthatexplodedintothree aboard theJ/109 bled towindwardtryandgetherbackupright! asymmetric spinnakerinthewaterashercrewscram- Connection saw itwillforgetthesightofMelges24 her kiteflailingawayatthemasthead.Noonewho the GrandSoleil50,sufferingsamemishapwith Spinnaker 5;CliveLlewellyn’s pair ofvictories:RobertArmstrong’sJ/100 classes werealsodecidedbycrewswhoposteda winners intheremainingthreeCommodore’sCup Beneteau 40.7, win Class4,narrowlybeatingSergioSagramoso’s A40, 3 classwithafirstandsecond.ArnauddeMeillac’s victories: inSpinnaker1BennyKelly’sTP52, games, winningtheirrespectivedivisionswithapairof of opportunitiesforsubstantialgainssavviercrews. patches oflightairandholesinthebreeze,withplenty before andafterthebrief,passingsqualls,therewere rather thanthethreeoriginallyscheduled.Typically, race committeechosetoconductapairofraces, many ofhercompetitorsslippedpast,and mark andstrugglingwithaspinnakertakedownas the BeneteauFirst40.7,wipingoutatleeward spirited andimagesmemorable.Therewas February 6th,inSt.Maarten,NetherlandsAntilles. es with47boatsandkickedofftheHeinekenactionon Regatta, theCommodore’sCupracefilledsevenclass- Mick ByrnebestedUSVirginIslandsnativeand Sponsor Challenge. Dominican Republic’sfirstCasadeCampo Pindar’s IanWilliamsfromGreatBritainhaswonthe crowned asthereigningWorldChampion,Team rocket, with astraight-setvictory.CarloFalcone’splywood the Swan68 Spinnaker 2,ClayDeutsch’sperennialcampaigner, stood atopthefieldwithconsecutivebullets;in —Continuedonnextpage occurring betweenboats,rocksandmarks. action wasalittletoocloseattimes,withcollisions providing plentyofopportunityforcloseaction.This were perfectwithshiftyeight-to12-knottradewinds the mouthofCasadeCampoMarina.Conditions course areasetbyPROPeteLawsonandhisteamat ans oftheWorldMatchRacingToursparredinatight the racingwasclosethroughoutasthesetwoveter- lowed theorywithpracticeoutintheclub’sJ/24s. ing heldattheCasadeCampoYachtClub,thenfol- Holmberg attendedamatchraceclinicinthemorn- Eduardo Otero.Thesesixandothersracingwith tice roundswereJimRead,JoseRodriguez,and Casa deCampoResort.AlsoassistingIanintheprac- points seriesheldonFebruary15thintheharborat alumnus PeterHolmberginanexcitingfirst-to-three- But nocrewhadmoreofahandfulthantheteam Several teamsprovedtheywereatthetopoftheir In ordertokeepthecarnageaminimum, In stauncheasterlywindsof25knots,thesailingwas As apreludetothe28thSt.MaartenHeineken Ian andhisteamofDenisCartier,SueHarvey Showing thematchraceskillthatledtohisbeing While thescoreswentthree-to-oneinWilliams’favor, World ChampionWinsInauguralCasaDeCampo sailing styl’caraibes inSpinnaker7. Double BulletsHitTargetinBudgetMarine Caccia AllaVolpe Vrijgezeilig inanear-knockdownwithherbigred Chippewa Lazy Dog Commodore’s Cup Sponsor Challenge Vrijgezeilig resumedracing. , matchedtheperformance , recordedthesamescoreto . Inotheraction,thedivision , wonthe11-boatSpinnaker , whichfacednotone MAD IV inSpinnaker6; Kick ‘em Bad Girl French Panthera MAD IV Elandra Alinghi in , , ,

APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15 using the Friday’s won Best AM Antifouling Paint Paint Brushes Epoxy Resins Sanding Paper & Discs Hand & Power Tools Houseware & Cookware Lilymaid won Classic Class and the Spirit & Style won Classic Class took away the Perseverence Trophy and Perseverence Trophy and took away the on the 22nd and docking in the huge marina won Vintage Class, Most Photogenic and Class, Most Photogenic and won Vintage Apollonia AM The St. Lucia Yacht Club celebrated that island’s Along with this annual event it has long been an A three-part event ensued: A race/cruise to Le Marin, With two classes and four special trophies, virtually and four special trophies, With two classes Regatta will be The next Grenada Classic Yacht St. Lucia’s Sir John Compton Memorial & Diamond Dash at Le Marin on arrival. The combined second and third races started on the 24th at 10:00 finish line as a starting line. The second race was the return to Rodney Bay via Diamond Rock. The “finish” of Race Three, the Le Marin to Diamond Rock leg, was self-timed, creating a “line honours” race for the fastest yacht to reach this point irrespective of handicap. —Continued on next page Independence Day, February 22nd, by resurrecting the traditional Prime Minister’s Cup Race, initiated in the time of the late Sir John Compton. Using a new trophy for the occasion, it was re-titled the Sir John Compton Memorial Trophy with the kind consent of Lady Janice Compton, who graciously agreed to present the trophy at the prizegiving on completion of the race at the SLYC. intention to race to Diamond Rock off the southern end of Martinique. Diamonds International was prepared to sponsor the race in order to produce an annual regional sailing event. Martinique, from St. Lucia’s Rodney Bay, starting at 10:00 charter catamaran with sailing enthusiasts came all with sailing enthusiasts charter catamaran St. Lucia to enjoy the race. the way from 53-foot a winner. Fred Thomas’s 1962, everyone was yawl cutter Jefferis’ 1889, 44-foot gaff Trophy, and Ivan Thalia Whitsett’s 1979, 76-foot schooner Overall. John Raindancer century-old Mike Jerrold’s Dressed Crew. 22nd, 2009. For more held from February 19th through information visit www.ClassicRegatta.com. e-mail: [email protected] Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear , Tony Sanpere , Robin Pitts Liberty Cayenne III , John Hayes Fax: (758) 452 0311 in Sunday’s race from St. David’s, on her Wildfire FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR Inaugural Grenada Classic Yacht Regatta Inaugural Grenada Johnson Hardware Ltd. Kenny Coombs, organizer of the Antigua Classic The official opening party and skipper’s briefing took Crowds followed the regatta action from Grand Classic Wannabees: Classic Wannabees: Couples: For full results visit www.vistandpoint.com/content/ For full results Grenada the organizer of the first West Indies Events, Classic Regatta in St. Jan Roosens, who started the Classics 61 to 100 feet: Classics 61 to Raindancer way to collect the Perseverance Trophy at St. George’s to set up this new event. Jan said that everything went smoothly and sailors had a lot of fun. Yacht Regatta, which now has around 60 participants, recalled having only six or seven entries at the first edition of that event — each regatta has to start somewhere! Coombs was in Grenada as advisor to Grenadian James Benoit, who was the Race Director of the first Grenada Classic. place at the Grenada Yacht Club on February 21st, and the yachts were hosted at Camper & Nicholsons’ Port Louis Marina in St. George’s Lagoon, where the award giving party was also held. On Saturday the boats raced to St. David’s Harbour on Grenada’s south coast, where BelAir Plantation and Shipwrights hosted lunch and an evening barbecue while a live band entertained sailors and locals. Another key sponsor was the Maritime School of the West Indies. Anse Beach and other viewpoints, while a bareboat view/890/35/. first edition Regatta, is pleased with the Classic Yacht the 22nd in the waters surrounding held February next year the number Spice Island, and expects that five! of entries will be more than Fred Thomas in Grenada Maarten, has partnered with

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Sweethearts of the Caribbean Draws Classics

Continued from previous page Continued from Schooners 61 to 100 feet: Singlehanders: Schooners 46 to 60 feet: Classics 26 to 34 feet: Classics 46 to 60 feet: Classics 35 to 45 feet: The Sweethearts of the Caribbean Regatta was Holmberg, too, was supportive of the efforts made Holmberg, too, was supportive “It was great to have this opportunity to put on this “It was great to have this opportunity “This was a great start towards building interest in “This was a great start towards Holmberg led in the first beat of the second match in the first beat of the second Holmberg led Rodney Bay, St. Lucia 32 entries, there was a day of schooner and singlehanded racing and a day of Classic Boat (boat design more than 30 years old) and Classic Wannabes (boat design more than 20 years old) racing, along with double-handed racing. Class winners were: raced out of Soper’s Hole, Tortola, BVI, on February 16th and 17th, hosted by the West End Yacht Club www.weyc.net. Mike and Di Kirk, the relentless organizers of this fun weekend event did a great job. With by CCYC Commodore Gianfranco Fini to organize this by CCYC Commodore Gianfranco the larger Casa de exhibition match as part of the next day. “I hope Campo Regatta, which started in the Dominican Republic this shows the people here can be, how accessi- how exciting match race sailing that this will grow into ble it is to spectators, and hope more events in the future,” said Holmberg. “There is tremendous potential here.” exhibition of match race sailing in this fantastic place, exhibition of match race sailing towards more interest and I hope this starts a trend and events,” said Williams. match racing here,” said World Match Racing Tour match racing here,” said World was providing director Scott MacLeod, who shoreside commentary. but then ran hard aground on a rock off the breakwa- aground on a rock off but then ran hard win in the to sail off to his second ter, allowing Williams fought third match, Holmberg series. In the critical by a Williams around the first mark back to lead in his Williams touched the mark length, but then to give a umpire Dobbs Davis rounding, prompting the gap Briton, who could not close penalty to the the fourth and offset the foul. And in enough to try turn again for con- and final match, it was Holmberg’s while chasing tact, this time surging on a wave hit the transom of the Williams back to the start to a penalty for Deutsche Bank boat, prompting Holmberg. —

Vincent Barnett

APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 was BernardJohnson’s52-footMorgan, — Rock dashforLineHonourswaswonby Loose Cannon Diamond RockwaswonbyEdgarRoeontheJ/24 Race Two,fromLeMarinbacktoRodneyBayvia the ItalianValerioCalderoni.Placingthirdwasapretty year’s winner,wasLeeStoneoftheUSA,followedby done withwaterbikes.Thefavorite,andalsolast showed upandwereimpressedbywhatcouldbe harbor ontheFridayevening.Manylocalspectators petition tookplaceatthePointe-à-Pitredowntown tion ontheThursdayevening,andfreestylecom- enced amateurs. fessionals, butshortercourses. world championship. three competitions: Terre districtofGuadeloupe.Thiseventconsists March 2nd,atViardBeach,PetitBourgintheBasse of theKarujeteventtookplacefromFebruary28to included PeterandCompanyRainForestSkyRide. Valmont ofDiamondsInternational.Othersponsors Dash Trophy2008,presentedbySharonLeonce- Breezeaway sented byLadyJanicetoBernardJohnsonof with atimeof1hour,23minutes,30seconds. St. LuciaYachtClub accepted theComptonandDiamondtrophiesat Bernard Johnson,center,andhis Winning RaceOne,fromRodneyBaytoLeMarin, The world’sbestjet-skifreestylersgaveademonstra- • Worldchampionshipforprofessionalsandexperi- • Amateurrace,usingthesameitineraryaspro- • Freestylecompetition,leadinguptothe Stéphane Legendrereports:The11thannualrunning For moreinformationvisitwww.stluciayachtclub.com. The SirJohnComptonMemorialTrophy2008waspre- Continued frompreviouspage Jet-Ski WorldChampionshipHeldinGuadeloupe Technical shop Equipment forrent Haulout andhullsandblasting Breakdown service24/7 Engine diagnosis Boat Maintenance Mechanics andElectricity SERVICES . Johnson also accepted the Diamond . JohnsonalsoacceptedtheDiamond . RaceThree,theLeMarintoDiamond LEAVE YOUR BOATINSKILLEDHANDS Breezeaway Breezeawa Breezeaway crew FRED MARINE 24h BREAKDOWNSERVICE•SALESREPAIRSMAINTENANCE Phone: +590590907137Fax:908 651 y.

MARINE MECHANICS(ALLMAKES)-HAULOUT physical injuries,butbothmechanicsanddoctors to theother.Thereweremechanicalfailuresand those monsters,whichseemtojumpfromonewave than anhourwasneededtocompletetheracefor course andtheamateursa68-kilometrecourse.Less machines. Professionalshadtofinishthe120-kilometre spectators gatheredtoseethewonderfullynoisy three days. no majormishapswerereportedattheendof and racesecurityteams,theyprovedefficientas security measuresweretakenbybothlocalauthorities three-metre swellinLesSaintesChannel.Important wind, gustingrainsquallsat40,accompaniedbya to theveryadverseweatherconditions:30knotsof ing whichsafetyrecommendationsweremany,owing young girlfromRussia,KatharinaKolotnova. in Guadeloupe Getting airtimeatworldjet-skichampionship The FridaystartlinewasatGosierBeach,where Friday startedwithaveryseriouspilot’sbriefing,dur- Various lubricants Various lubricants Primers andAntifoulingInternational Electric parts,batteries Anodes,Shaft bearings Filtration FLEETGUARD Basic spareparts Genuine partsYanmar&Tohatsu GOODS E-mail: Marina Pointe-a-Pitre97110 (filters, impellers,belts) [email protected]

Guadeloupe F.W.I. Scaffolding Vacuum cleanerforwater Diverse handtools Electrical tools High pressurecleaners150/250bars FOR RENT couple ofspecialcrewsaboardtheFarr49, festival ofyachtinghasanicheforeverysailor.For Grand Prixracersandmultihulls,thisannualCaribbean Heineken Regatta.Frombeachcatsandbareboatsto not keen,itisreallyfuntosee! Martinique, andGuadeloupe. Russia, USA,Spain,Hungary,Germany,France, nine countriesandislandswererepresented:Italy, participants fromotherCaribbeanislands.Thisyear the future,withoneoftheirgoalsbeingtohavemore of theKarujetevent,arepleasedandhaveplansfor offshore racing. famous promoterofinternationaleventsin ski worldfederationpresidentandMauroRavenna, from France,whoalsowontwoyearsago. first dayandhadtoretirefromtheentirecompetition. ner, DavyVaïtilingon,whothisyearbrokehisjetskithe Vaïtilingon fromGuadeloupe,brotheroflastyear’swin- sport, veryimpressive. say, forsomeonewhodoesn’tknowmuchaboutthis organizers provided.Spectacularagain—andImust ing thebeachpartiesandmanyfreeactivities (compared to15,000lastyear)whowerealsoenjoy- for acircuitrace,cheeredonby30,000spectators two hours.Justanotherworld! day todothis,whereasthemachinestooklessthan Terre. Thoseofuswithsailboatswouldneedagood were onhandtosolvetheproblems. Everywhere) aboard regatta toraisefundsforgreatcauses. chance toraceforagranderpurpose,andusethe event providedanotheropportunity.Itgavethemthe and theBeneteauOceanis473, —Continuedonnextpage to 23knotsandsometimesreaching47knots.Rain… Weather conditionswereheavy,withgustsregularlyup Swissport, andtheMCBBank. Partners, HBNLaw,DAE,theCuracaoTouristBureau, Synergy Company hashelpedoutwithanewheadsailfor and volunteers.TheNagicoMarineInsurance Bruder Pius,whichistotallydependentondonations child.” OnememberoftheTeamWAVEcrewworksat they canlearnaprofessionandtakecareoftheir them aplacetoliveandassistingintheireducationso organization thattakescareofthesegirlsbygiving nant, homelessandoutofschool.KasBruderPiusisan very youngteenagegirlsinCuraçaowhoarepreg- for ourownfunbutalsotoraisemoneyagroupof their personalaims.“TheideawastodotheHeineken to dothe2008St.MaartenHeinekenRegatta.” a greattimeandlearnedsomuch,thatwedecided in Bonairethatwebecameateam.Andhadsuch enthusiastic andnojobwastoobigforanyone.It Luckily, thewindswerelight.Butgroupwasso several headsailsandanasymmetricspinnaker. before anditwaschallenginglearningaboatwith “Everything wasnew,”shesaid.“Wehadn’ttrained to learn”aboutthe49-footer,whichwasbuiltin1974. er LeadeHaassaidthe14-membercrew“hadmuch time lastOctoberforaregattainBonaire.Teamlead- based inCuraçao,whichcametogetherforthefirst There arecountlesswaystoenjoytheSt.Maarten For moreinformationvisitwww.karujet.com. Come andjointhepartynextyear.Evenifyouare Eric PaulinandJacquesBoucher,theco-organizers This eventwashonoredbythepresenceofjet The WorldChampionshipwinnerwasCyrilleLemoine The overallwinnerfortheamateurswasBruno The SundayepiloguetookplaceofftheViardBeach Saturday wasthelongracethatroundedBasse Take TeamWAVE(WomenAgainstViolence Team WAVEsailed But deHaassaysTeamWAVE’sgoalsgobeyond Teams RaceforCharityinSt.MaartenHeineken . OthersponsorsincludePremierManagement Synergy Synergy TOHATSU in the Spinnaker 6 class. intheSpinnaker6class. , theall-womenteam Team Goldendog, Synergy, the

APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

! Vessels up to 1500 tons for April 12th and 13th Compass 150' Length - 52' Beam - 13' Draft Guadeloupe’s Triskell Trophy Set Guadeloupe’s Triskell Trophy Management for the Superyacht Cup Management A New Name for a Great Youth Regatta CONSTRUCTION REPAIRS MAINTENANCE The Yacht Club de la Martinique takes great pleas- All racecourses will be on the waters in the Baie des The committee desk opens on Wednesday, April For more information contact Yacht Club de la A long-standing feature of the regional youth-sailing For more information contact Tom Gerker For more information visit www.bvispringregatta.org. For more information of GWM and John Grandy Peter Wykeham-Martin International John Grandy is an ISAF-appointed The Triskell Trophy Regatta for cruising sailing boats For more information contact the Association Le Martinique’s La Banana’s Cup to Honour Jean Trudo For more information visit www.thesuperyachtcup. ure in inviting one and all to compete in La Banana’s Cup on April 12th and 13th. On this occasion, Martinique’s yacht-racing legend Jean Trudo will celebrate 47 years of racing and in his honour the 16th edition of this event has been dubbed “La Banana’s Cup — Jubilee Jean Trudo”. Flamands of Fort de France, with one race on the Saturday and one on Sunday. Classes will include Racing, Surprise, J/24, Racing/Cruising, Cruising and Multihull, as well as Laser, Sunfish, Tempest, Soling and Beach Cat. Both days’ races are followed by barbe- cues and live bands at the yacht club. 9th, and the skipper’s briefing is that evening. The event will be run under the patronage of Peter Holmberg from St. Thomas. Customs and Immigration clearance is available at Sea Services, Rue Ernest Deproge, Fort de France, (596) 70 26 69. Martinique [email protected], (596) 63 26 76. calendar, the BVI’s Chief Minister’s Cup International Youth Regatta has been renamed the Premier’s Cup International Youth Regatta. This year’s event will be held from July 11th through 14th at Nanny Cay Resort and Marina, Tortola. at (284) 494-2830. all a-buzz from April 1st through 6. We’ll have a report April 1st through 6. We’ll have all a-buzz from in next month’s run the on- have been appointed to Racing Limited planned of The Superyacht Cup events water aspects includes the SYC Transatlantic for 2008. The calendar from on April 8th, the SYC Palma Challenge starting SYC Antigua from June 11th to 14th, and the December 10th to 13th. is a quali- Race Officer and Peter Wykeham-Martin together as GWM Racing fied IRC measurer; working in professional they have decades of experience the needs of par- regatta management, balancing Patrick Whetter, ticipants, sponsors and organisers. and John will bring a SYC Event Director, says: “Peter management to The new level of professional race we have received Superyacht Cup. The feedback has suggested we from some owners and captains as well as the cruising should introduce an IRC class in introducing this class, and GWM will be invaluable new element.” com and www.gwmracing.com. and sport catamarans will take place in Guadeloupe on April 12th and 13th. It is an official race of the Federation Français de Voile, organized by Association Le Triskell. The regatta is part of the championship for cruising boats and beach cats organized by the Ligue Guadeloupeenne de Voile. A minimum of five races will take place over the two days. Triskell at [email protected], phone Jean- Michel Marziou at (690) 49 57 57, or visit www.triskellcup.com. Team

Synergy E-Mail: [email protected] (for more on the program, check out their BVI Springs Ahead with Spring Regatta • Awl Grip boat spray and antifouling Of course, you don’t need to have a cause to sail in The BVI Spring Regatta has the British Virgin Islands Last year, Sochrin’s Beneteau was covered with Beneteau was covered Last year, Sochrin’s Goldendog website at www.teamgoldendog.org). In addition to working with the Yankee Golden Retriever Association, they always try to address the problem of stray ani- mals on St. Maarten, an island Sochrin and friends have come to respect and love. Specifically, they contribute to a program that neuters and spays dogs and cats. “We’ve met a lot of great people here,” said Sochrin. “And this notion has taken off in ways I couldn’t have imagined.” the St. Maarten Heineken Regatta, other than the desire to have some “serious fun”! So it seemed kind of natural to identify homeless ani- kind of natural to identify homeless So it seemed just took off them good homes. And it mals and find from there.” 27 sponsors who now back stickers from the Tel: + 590 590 911 011 Fax: + 590 590 919 652 • All Types of mechanical and engineering work • Bow thrusters – Stabilizers - Shafts and props • 4 Docks : 120 tons – 200 tons – 650 tons – 1480 tons Seminole Marine, 97110 - Pointe à Pitre - Guadeloupe, F.W.I. • Carpentry and fiberglass repairs to the highest standards Team Goldendog. fun. Team WAVE from Curaçao raced the Farr 49 serious

and the team as well! Team WAVE was the as well! Team WAVE was and the team

With over 30 years' experience, customers are assured of a complete range of quality services GUADELOUPE DRY DOCKS Continued from previous page Continued from Another sailor who used the St. Maarten Heineken “It started with a pretty simple notion,” Sochrin said. For more information, or to make a donation, con- in Spinnaker Class 6 in St. Maarten to raise funds for homeless pregnant teens in Spinnaker Class 6 in St. Maarten to raise funds for Girls just wanna have Regatta as a launching pad for good deeds was Connecticut yachtsman Jeffrey Sochrin, who this year sailed his fifth Heineken. Sochrin competes in the bareboat class with his mates from the Milford Yacht Club, and he always calls his entry “We wanted to sail competitively, but with a cause. I’d always wanted a Golden Retriever and I ended up rescuing and adopting a dog back in the States. tact Charlotte Hartmans van de Rijdt at charlotte@ premier-mp.com. Of course, there’s a story behind the name. cessful event in their effort to raise money for young teen mothers. only all-women crew in their class. Team WAVE fin- crew in their class. Team only all-women a very suc- and can look back on ished 12th in class — of regularly wetted the deck …and high swells Synergy APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 obvious alternativesarethenorthernshoresand ages canbetoowindyandchoppyforcomfort.The outer reefsarelowwithlargegaps,potentialanchor- offer littleprotectionfromthetradewindsand,as an east-westline.Thus,thesouthsidesofthesecays lying withtheireasternendsabout15degreesnorthof is, longthinstripsofsand,coveredindensescruband the mostpart,outercaysarelikeCayoLargo,that to windwardthroughanendlesschainofislands.For north ofJuventud,butfromthenonwardswemotored much ofthetimeasweworkedourwayaround was goingtobeuphillalltheway. Antigua andveryconsciousofthefactthatourreturn point wewere1,300mileswestofourstartingin ney backeast.Itisworthbearinginmindthatatthis tradewind flowsubsidedandwebeganourlongjour- small sum.Westayedforaweek,untilthestrong men soldusabucketfuloflobstersforridiculously the puntersofftoexplorewall.Somelocalfisher- dive boatpotteredaroundinthedistance,dropping beach andnotanothersoulinsight.Thedailyvisiting west-facing baywithwaterclearasgin,awhitesand Caleta PlayaFrancesaisabeautiful,well-protected visit thedivesitestowest.Herewehitjackpot. our returnfromIsladelaJuventudtoCayoLargo. Frontera, our Gerona, andafterfurtherinspectionsbytheGuardia For thefirsttwodayswewereluckyandsailedfor Juventud toCayoLargo Before headingbackeast,however,wedetouredto Having purchasedsomefreshproduceatNueva Fascinating… andFar! Part Two: Southwest Cuba DESTINATIONS despacho

wasreissuedwithauthorityfor by ChristopherPrice left CayoLargo,itoccurredtomethattheCubans… another portofentry. to Cienfuegos,inthemiddleofsouthcoastand More stamps,moreglueandwewerecleartoproceed the paperworkwascompletedindouble-quicktime. the Interiorwerefullofabjectapologiesandrest removed immediately.ThemenfromtheMinistryof message wasclearandtheoffendingarticle and despiteitshandler’scompletelackofEnglish,the top ofhervoice,“Getthatbloodyanimaloffmyboat!” with excitementinthegalley.Jeanettescreamedat ferent snifferdog.Thisonedisgraceditselfbypeeing and stampedbyvariousofficials,visitedadif- passage toCayoLargowherewewereagaininspected consider tobedownrightdangerous. involve unmarkedreefandchannelpassagesthatwe Calder’s on paper,andaredescribedwithenthusiasmbyNigel light winds.Wealsofoundanumberthatlookedgood anchorages andnumerousothersthatweregoodin experience provedotherwise.Wefoundthreebeautiful hundreds ofsuperbanchoringopportunities.Our includes CayoLargoandIsladelaJuventud,willoffer vast shallowareatothewestofCienfuegos,which quito problem. always tooshallowandthelattersufferfrommos- inter-island channels,buttheformerarealmost During thecourseoffinalinspectionbeforewe In spiteofourreservations,weenjoyedreturn Detailed studyoftheCubanchartssuggeststhat Cuba: ACruisingGuide —Continued onnextpage , butwhichnow Antigua wasbrokenbyarefreshingstopinJamaica The longreturntripfromCuba’ssouthcoastto APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 strategy of mak- —Continued on next page In Cienfuegos we hired a car for a couple of days, we hired a car for a couple In Cienfuegos and Cuba proved to be a Checking out of Cienfuegos windward but, much to We expected a hard slog to Port Antonio, Jamaica The Errol Flynn Jamaica was, to us, a revelation. We found a good supermarket a couple of miles out- To Puerto Rico Our plan was tocross the Windward Passage to the like pigs in the proverbial. like pigs in the which is to go to the city of Trinidad, mainly in order Atlantic. The city on this side of the the second oldest for the most new, in good condition and car was fairly This was of the roads was also good. part the condition traffic and because there was very little not surprising for miles outside the towns, we drove frequently, once is an absolute another vehicle. Trinidad without seeing Cuba should visiting south central gem and anyone on the itinerary. make a detour if it is not already now we expected nothing fairly lengthy process, but by resident officials at 0830 else. We advised the marina’s day, but by 1030 nothing that we wished to leave that chasing seemed appro- had happened so a little gentle system required that they priate. We were told that the our departure, so they sat be given four hours notice of hours before bestirring in their office for another two we were ready to go, themselves! By early afternoon Port Antonio in Jamaica. and our first objective was the wind was north of our pleasure and surprise, lee of the coastal moun- northeast and once out of the 24-hour passage we have tains we made the fastest ever made. probably the best we have Marina in Port Antonio is hand it sits in the middle ever been into; on the other of a town that is probably the poorest we have found in the Caribbean. We hired a car with the intention of driving over the Blue Mountains to Kingston and back round the east coast main road, but the quality of the roads was so bad that we had difficulty in maintaining a 20-mile-per-hour average and we aborted the trip near the top of the Blue Mountains. Nevertheless, a fascinating experience. side Port Antonio and in the town center there is the best fruit and vegetable market we have found in the Caribbean. We left Jamaica with the fridge and freezer well stocked for what we anticipated would be a long, hard haul to the east. western end of Haiti and then Bruce adopt Sant’s Van Guide to Passages SouthGentleman’s ing relatively short inshore hops at night when wind and current would be least unfavorable. cam- articles, Compass meant that we were cambio It is probable that there were a It is probable that there were Cienfuegos And so to Cienfuegos. A narrow we have ever seen anywhere: the we have ever into flat hook went down ten feet feet of white sand, I let out 80 off the chain and, when snorkeling be seen stern, the anchor could clearly 130 feet away. man- couple of lighthouse keepers Cayo ning the powerful light on about Guano del Este (just think eight that one for a moment) about them miles to the east; apart from was it was unlikely that there of us. another soul within 30 miles As we left the following morning, north- the wind was backing to the of para- east and our isolated bit dise was becoming untenable. but well-marked deep-water channel leads into a huge enclosed bay that is a major port. Around it is a lot of heavy industry with distant views of a nuclear power station, two oil refineries and a vast cement , or currency exchange, with a few hustlers outside Others have described, in previous Cayo Sal somewhat of the eastward journey was The first part Cuba’s extraordinary dual currency system. I will not, Cuba’s extraordinary dual currency system. I will not, therefore, go into details; it is enough to say that if a visitor can exchange pounds, euros or Canadian dollars for local pesos, then instantly the cost of living — at least for things like fruit, vegetables, meat and fish — reduces by 95 percent. Yes, 95 percent! The combination of market and bio offering even better rates. disappointing as we motored to the south of the chain as we motored to the south disappointing shallow and the reef. It was windy, of cays, but inside for a lunch no comfortable anchorage choppy, with the end of the at the end of the day and stop. However, anchorage hit the jackpot — a superb chain, we again clearest water of Cayo Sal. It has the on the north side works. But the city itself, with a population of 150,000, appears to be generally clean and unpolluted. It has a very large central square surrounded by some impressive public buildings, an attractive pedestrian shop- ping area and, best of all, a small and very busy public market. To top it all, across the road is an official is quite Hummingbird Continued from previous page Continued from Before leaving Cayo Largo we refueled and had no ‘Trinidad is an absolute gem and anyone visiting south central Cuba should make a detour if it is not already on the itinerary’ problems with fuel quality. This was just as well, problems with fuel quality. This was just as well, because we ended up motoring a very high proportion of the 1,150 miles back to Antigua. enough to house three Haitian refugees! The men from enough to house three Haitian refugees! The men from the Ministry of Agriculture had asked to see our refrig- erator, where they discovered our offensive salami. But they did not ask to see the freezer, which is in the other hull. (For this we were very grateful, because its contents sustained us for a large part of our six-week stay in an area in which good-quality meat was almost impossible to find.) a large catamaran with a lot of internal space. with a lot of internal a large catamaran it walked around the accommodation, Although they rooms, anyone to look in the engine didn’t occur to to stand is large enough for two adults each of which near the in. Similarly, no one ventured up and work each large there are two lockers foredeck, where — cruising sail- know very much about …really don’t why should they? boats — and APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 anchorages were fewer than we expected and this was anchorages werefewerthanweexpectedandthiswas match uptoourexpectations.Well-protectedandattractive of thesouthcoast,GolfodeBatabana,didnotquite However, wefoundthatasacruisingareathewesternend was wellworththeeffortandplanningthatwentintoit. nally intendeditwasanewandfascinatingexperiencethat area. Althoughwedidnotcoversuchalargeareaasorigi- island, andtomakeanassessmentofthemasacruising areas ofshallowwatersandcaysonthesouthside out, nottovisitCubaastourists,butexplorethevast really worthwhile.Ouranswerisaresounding“yes”.Weset us twomainquestions. pleted aroundtripof2,990miles. into FalmouthHarbor,Antiguawehadcom- uneventful andwhen,atlast,wesailedback B VIs.Ourpassageswerelargelysmoothand through thealphabeticaljumbleofS,USand then spentseveralweekswaftinggently comfort. our scheduleandwehadtraveledincomplete down thetubes,butwewerefar,faraheadof hours! Byourstandardsalotoffuelhadgone ered 302miles,almostentirelydueeast,in52 coast, finallystoppingatPonce.Wehadcov- and wemotoredonalongthePuertoRican extraordinary weatherwindowremainedopen along thecoastafewmilesattime.Our for thewest-to-eastpassage,hackinghisway to windward”andheusuallyallows11days the mostdifficultpartsofhis“thornlesspath fashion. Thegreatgurubelievesthisisoneof south coastoftheislandintrueVanSant Mayaguez andthenworkourwayalongthe kept going.Ourintentionwastocheckinat motoring east,soweaimedatPuertoRicoand cape wefoundnearperfectconditionsfor DR, butagain,assoonweroundedthe few fishermencampedonthebeachamileaway. company wehadwerepelicansbythehundredsanda protected anchoragemilesfromanywhere.Theonly the northwestofcapewefoundabeautifulandwell- minican Republic,andjustkeptgoing.Afewmilesto toward CaboBeata,thesouthernmostpointofDo- ters thewinddroppedalmostentirely,sowepointed We wereamazedtofindthatonleavingJamaicanwa- — First, they want to know if this lengthy round trip was First, theywanttoknowifthislengthyroundtripwas Since wereturned,ourcruisingfriendshaveasked The TwoMainQuestions We loiteredbrieflyaroundPuertoRicoand After twodayswesetofftohopalongthecoastof Continued frompreviouspage e-mail: Contact John Louis •876-715-6044876-873-4412 Caribbean, servicingyachts upto95'in length. The only100-tontravel liftinthispartofthe www.errolflynnmarina.com noerllnmrn.o • [email protected] VHF Channel16 that althoughnearlyeverybodyhasajob,bynomeans high levelofemployment,butinrealitythismeans books intouristsouvenirshops. only otherreadingmaterialwesawonsalewasguide- passed onepoorlystockedsecond-handbookshop;the book, newspaperormagazine.InCienfuegoswe that wevisited,sawnotasinglepersonreading these claimsrathersurprising.Inthecitiesandtowns tion ofjustover11,000,000.Thiscasualvisitorfound high, withmorethan60universitiesservingapopula- world; indeedthegenerallevelofeducationisvery literacy hasrisentoalevelashighanywhereinthe have theworld’shighestratioofdoctorstopopulation. one oftheproudestclaimsRevolutionthatthey poverty. Almosteveryonelooksveryhealthyanditis signs ofaffluence,butalsoverylittleevidencereal and wentoutoftheirwaytobehelpful.Therewerefew The Cubansthemselvesweregenerallyveryfriendly January, mega-millionsofmosquitoes. largely becauseofmurkytidalwatersand,atleastin central ParqueMarti Terry andColegioSanLorenzosurroundCienfuegos’ Well-preserved buildingsincludingtheTeatroTomas Being acommuniststate,Cubawillclaimvery The Revolutionalsoclaimsveryproudlythatadult Ashore, asexpected,wefoundCubatobefascinating. Errol Flynn &BoatyardErrol Marina THE WATER THIS HURRICANE SEASON PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENTON Duty Free Zone inMarina Engine andPart Specialists 24 HourFuel Paint Sheds 100 Ton Travel-lift Full ServiceMarina

Out ofthe Water Storage Upto95Feet OT NOI,JAMAICAPORT ANTONIO, Introducing the NEW Tobago andPuertoRico. they havesailedtheEasternCaribbean,mostlybetween 50-foot catamaran fascinating anddesertedwatersofsouthernCuba. would go—andintheprocessdevotemoretimeto we wereheadingforthePacific,thenthatisway or theCaymanislands,thenreachingtoCanal.If to PanamacouldthenbecompletedviaJamaicaand/ a safe,secureandfascinatingnewexperience.Thetrip towards PuertoRico,theDRandthenCubawilloffer route. AdeparturefromanyoftheLeewardIslands native tothestandardVenezuela,ABCs,Colombia cruisers headingforPanamashouldconsideranalter- hotels wevisited,wereinfestedwithsecurityguards connected withtourists,forexamplethemarinasand more inplainclothes.Ontheotherhand,facilities in Cienfuegos.Ofcourse,theremayhavebeenmany police —justthreeofthemguardingabankdelivery on inCuba. times Ijustsits.”Thereseemstobealotofthatgoing the guywhosaid,“SometimesIsitsandthinks,some- do theyhavemuchtodo.Iwasfrequentlyremindedof Christopher andJeanettePriceliveaboardtheir I wouldalsosuggestthatanyEasternCaribbean For apolicestate,wesawremarkablyfewuniformed etuat Beach Bar&Grille Restaurant, 24 HourSecurityGatedMarina Open Air Market 1Minuteby Foot Depth Upto25Feet atFace Dock Downtown Nightlife Protected Harbor would openupawholenewworld. Florida, toroundthewesternendofCuba downhill run,eitherfromtheBahamasor south fromNorthAmerica.Arelativelyshort will doitagain. starts isalongwaytogoandIdoubtifwe well overathousandmilesbeforethefun would gotimeandagain.Butsailing usual EasternCaribbeangroove,thenwe were, say,only300milesawayfromour with theweatheronwayback.IfCuba — ifwehadnotbeenextraordinarilylucky have beenmuchlonger—andlesspleasant nearly 3,000milesandthetimetakenwould Our triptoCubainvolvedaroundof is moretodowithatime/benefitassessment. ing todowithdisappointmentCuba;it the answeris“Probablynot”.Thishasnoth- cruisers is“Wouldyoudoitagain?”andhere we sawcarryingfirearms. ly. Theywere,however,theonlypeoplethat long periodsbeforeamblingaroundaimless- who didverylittleotherthensitaboutfor The pictureisdifferentforcruiserscoming The secondquestionaskedofusbyfellow Hummingbird Navigating thegoodlife

. Forthelastsixyears APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 shipments & marine services providing easy access for large • Drive-down dock garbage disposal & washroom cable TV, 24hr security, water, fuel, telephone & internet, • Electricity (110, 220 & 380 3-phase), with full marina facilities • 30 stern-to berths, 30 alongside berths up to 350’ LOA, 21’ Draft • Excellent dockage for Super-yachts When, after a long wait, they did not return, we began drifting out to the main When, after a long wait, they did not return, we began Guest lodges on the Mánamo River provide rustic accommodations Guest lodges on the Mánamo River provide rustic accommodations in superb natural surroundings a moment and then quickly moved back into the forest out of sight. a moment and then quickly moved back into the forest river. The rest of the caño trip was uneventful, with the exception of a toucan that river. The rest of the caño trip was uneventful, with back to our boat and move landed in a tree near the waterway. It was time to head to our next anchorage. —Continued on next page the motor Paddling off . caño

, somewhat startled by the sight of the monkey. As we , somewhat startled by the sight of the monkey. As we , on this wondrous journey , on this wondrous journey e

Sea Schell

is another day aboard our Tayana 42, is another day aboard our El Shaddai the Orinoco up the Mánamo River in very much Delta, Venezuela. This is machine, as like taking a trip in a time the farther the farther we go upriver back in time we seem to travel.

Bat

Bi DESTINATIONS

HYACINTHS AND MONKEYSHINES AND HYACINTHS Falmouth Harbour Marina Falmouth As we rounded a bend in the caño, we heard rustling in the trees and spotted a As we rounded a bend in the caño, we heard rustling The tidal current was against us, even 20 miles inland. The tidal current was against us, even 20 miles inland. It To free ourselves from all the clutter and noise, we get The morning stillness is broken only by the occasional The morning stillness is broken www.antigua-marina.com [email protected] Tel: +1 268 460 6054 Fax: +1 268 460 6055 www.antigua-marina.com [email protected] Tel: +1 268 by Bill Bate Mánamo River Adventure Part Two: Part Two: River Adventure Mánamo Capuchin monkey. It was not running from us, instead, it climbed out on a limb Capuchin monkey. It was not running from us, instead, sat in the dinghy with Harry where it could get a better view of these intruders! We and Melinda from appeared. They studied us for sat quietly waiting and watching, three or four more The noise of the dinghy motor discouraged us, as we The noise of the dinghy motor discouraged us, as of were sure that it would cause any wildlife to move out sight before we arrived at their location. Consequently, shut off the motor. Paddling as we moved in deeper searching for fruit trees, we those we had seen monkeys quietly forward, we moved into an area of berry trees like and eat the crimson fruit. feeding on in the past. They peel away the outer husk We have not sighted a monkey on this trip and we go We have not sighted a monkey on this trip and we with high hopes of finding our first troop. in the dinghy and head into a small tributary, a drone of a 40-horsepower Yamaha engine at full throttle drone of a 40-horsepower Yamaha on the back of a river taxi heading south along the eastern shore of the river. Not only does the sound of the motor break the time warp; half a day in our engine room working on an alternator problem confirmed we are actually in the 21st century. The romance of time travel is dispelled and our sense of self-dependence sharpened by our failed alternator, making it necessary to bring our portable generator into service for battery charging. APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 immediately begansharinggiftsfromtheirgardenandsmallorchardwherethey moved totheareaabout17yearsagoasrefugeesfromGuyana.Thisfriendlyfamily amazed thattherewerenowthreeTayana42sinthisremotelocation. we wereunexpectedlyjoinedbyathirdTayana, and anchoredwith Lodge. Tostarboardwasafairlylargevillage.Wepulledupjustbeyondthelodge a rusticbutcleanandwell-organizedsetofbuildings—clearlytheBocadeTigre On ourportsidewasalargeblue,rectangular,metal-cladbuilding.Behindthat later learnedtheVenezuelangovernmentwasbuildingaschoolandhospitalhere. flowered treesandwatercacao. of theriverwasdenseandforbiddingbutlushgreen,withoccasionalmauve- ing ustoincreaseourspeed.Aswegotfartherupstream,thevegetationoneachside — We werewelcomedashorebyanEnglish-speakingfamilywhotoldustheyhad As weroundedabend,couldseeconstructiononbothsidesoftheriver.We We travelledcautiouslyandtoourdelighttheriverwideneddeepened,allow- Continued frompreviouspage Most familiesalongtheriverliveinopenbuildingsandsleephammocks Sea Schell (anotherTayana42),justbeyond Sea Gypsy . Weweremorethan Alouette . Beforelong —Continuedonnextpage were groomedwiththeconstructionblendingintosurroundingforest. private cubicleseachwithadoublebed,table,toiletandwashsink.Thegrounds present atthetime.Thebuildingsconsistedofsingle-storeystructures,dividedinto tained wildernesslodge,readyforcustomers,althoughweheardofonlyonebeing mixed congregation. in threelanguages—English,WaraoandSpanishbenefitingthesmallbut one oftheirSundayservicesandwerequiteimpressedthattheycouldconductit church. Theyhadbeenholdingservicesforthepastsevenyears.Welaterattended ings andsleptinhammocks. quite differentfromthehomesoftheirneighbours,wholivedinopenframebuild- stilt structurebutwiththeadditionofwallsclapboard.Italsohadbeds.Thiswas cans withthemontheirfuelruntoTucupitointhemorning. carried homesomefruitandtheassurancefamilywouldtakeourtwoemptyfuel ric, needles,thread,flour,cookingoilandchildren’scoloringstorybooks.We were growingmangoes,lemons,coconutsandbananas.Wesharedourgiftsoffab- Our shortvisitattheBocadeTigreLodgeshowedittobeanimmaculatelymain- Nearby wasanotheropenrectangularbuildingthatturnedouttobeaChristian The familyconsistedoffouradultsandeightchildren.Theirhomewasatypical APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 leading, Sea Schell anchorages and channels are found in the

Call us on (284) 494 2830 for a dealer near you. us on (284) 494 2830 for Call had been on to date. In contrast to typical anchorages, the had been on to date. In contrast to typical anchorages, El Shaddai Later that afternoon, four large speedboats came up the river at full throttle, past Later that afternoon, four large speedboats came up the treated to more troops of As we travelled out, we explored more caños and were The GPS coordinates of the Mánamo River The resort was larger than most of the villages we had seen. All interconnecting villages we had seen. All interconnecting larger than most of the The resort was of fruit on each dinner, with large bowls was elegantly set up for The dining room Our river trip back was uneventful, a clean close to one of the most spectacular Our river trip back was uneventful, a clean close to side. It was quite a comical sight and we couldn’t help but marvel at the intelligence side. It was quite a comical sight and we couldn’t help of these young monkeys. about 20 people per boat our boats. At the dock in front of the lodge, they unloaded stay in the rainforest. — Toyota employees being pampered with an overnight travel, to the point we became monkeys. We found ourselves more confident in river river channel with the yacht, a little cocky and decided to explore a secondary were charting our own course, rather than by dinghy. We had no reliable charts and river. With which we trusted would get us through to the main Mánamo River was truly an exciting place to be. through Members Only Maxi cruising package available in Chaguaramas, Trinidad, Taxi Service. walkways and cabins were on stilts well above the forest floor. On the entry dock, above the forest floor. On cabins were on stilts well walkways and two colourful entered the lodge there were was a tame toucan. As we greeting guests, Capuchin monkeys. macaws and two and relaxed to we purchased a cold drink invited to the bar where table. We were building and in stark contrast to its rustic set dining room, take in this elaborately from the appeared, hanging upside-down around it. A monkey’s head the wild forest was suddenly It scanned the room and through the open doorway. roof, looking dropped to the in close proximity, they monkey. Seeing nobody joined by a second grabbed some fruit and retreated immediately out- floor, scurried up onto a table, we did not ground at any time. However, at times the canopy over the river closed we did not ground at any time. However, at times the That was a little too close in, occasionally allowing branch tips to brush our mast. — and highly risky. for comfort. This trip was particularly exciting and adventurous This part we would not recommend to other boaters. adventures Resident cats cozy up to fishing tourists at Orinoco Delta Lodge. Note the masses Resident cats cozy up to fishing tourists at Orinoco Delta of water hyacinth in the river Sea and, as dark- PM M65 M92B M115T M135 M225Ti M265Ti M300Ti Sabre M135 that evening where Ben treated us to delicious barbe- Ben treated us to delicious that evening where reported they had traveled by dinghy to Isla De Mono, reported they had traveled had traded nail polish and shampoo. The women immedi- Sea Gypsy Alouette Sea Schell

adventures as Ben nears the conclusion of a circumnavigation. adventures as Ben nears the

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Continued from previous page Continued from QUIET CLEAN POWER QUIET CLEAN We planned to treat ourselves this evening by having dinner at the lodge around this evening by having dinner at the lodge around We planned to treat ourselves A treat to the eye was the sight of a couple of guests sitting on the edge of the dock, of a couple of guests sitting on the edge of the dock, A treat to the eye was the sight Our next stop was the Orinoco Delta Lodge. This lodge is a large complex consist- Our next stop was the Orinoco We had discussed going further upriver toward Tucupito but found that due to trans- We had discussed going further upriver toward Tucupito As days on the river closed, many groups of parrots, mostly in pairs, flew over us As days on the river closed, many groups of parrots, Melinda from cut their hair short to sig- We learned that the Warao girls, when reaching puberty, On one occasion we noticed a young girl, probably around ten years old, at the On one occasion we noticed a young girl, probably around Across the river from the lodge is a village; from these homes dugout canoes were Across the river from the lodge is a village; from these Earlier in the day We were invited aboard We were invited Making our way back to our boat, we discovered it had been completely surround- it had been completely back to our boat, we discovered Making our way six o’clock. The staff informed us dinner was normally served at 8:00 six o’clock. The staff informed dangling fishing lines into the water, hoping to catch a fish while the resident cats the water, hoping to catch a fish while the resident cats dangling fishing lines into a feast opportunity. It was like a scene from “Tom hung closely by waiting for the by with a colorful macaw on his shoulder. On Sawyer”. One employee walked a tarantula seeking out insects hiding in the thatch. edge of a thatched roof was ing of individual cabins, rather than rooms, with a central hall with dining room and than rooms, with a central hall with dining room ing of individual cabins, rather all in conveniences, including internet. The cabins are lounge. It is quite modern Everything is on stilts, including the raised walk- interconnected to a main walkway. a puma is housed. Along the walkway are blackened ways. There is a cage where out of the lids; these burn used motor oil for night paint cans with wicks coming help keep mosquitoes away. lanterns. We understand they Gypsy’s so lodge, and had seen a troop of monkeys on the island, about 30 minutes from the far the next morning. Apparently we hadn’t gone quite we made plans to go early enough up the caño. cued, fresh-caught fish and entertained us with a fascinating, hour-long slide show of cued, fresh-caught fish and entertained mission lines across the river it wasn’t possible to go much farther. Consequently wemission lines across the river it wasn’t possible to go much out the Mis Palafito Lodge.started to head back downstream where we decided to seek just short of the lodge.We found it about four miles up a side caño where we anchored of the forest and well cam- To our surprise the lodge, though hidden under the canopy announcing “Toyota”. We wereouflaged, had brilliant white banners with red writing resort property on the edgefascinated to find the dining room of this very large, remote convention.of the river completely set up for what appeared to be a with their familiar cry, as well as flocks of scarlet ibis. With the exception of the with their familiar cry, as well as flocks of scarlet ibis. channel, the evenings were drone of the odd outboard engine on the main river onslaught arrived, making silent. However, just as light started to fade the mosquito it necessary to retreat inside the boat for about two hours. nify that they are available for marriage. In many cases this is at the age of 12 or 13nify that they are available for marriage. In many cases have three or four children.years, and by 16 years some of the girls are reported to control of an outboard motor with seven or eight younger children along for the ride. control of an outboard motor with seven or eight younger or five years of age paddled to In other instances young boys and girls of about four was completely under control, our boat. In each case there was no doubt the boat a ball to play with and in except in one instance where we gave the young paddler his excitement, he almost upset his canoe. female traders approached theirately began washing their hair in the river. Other young the new glamour product.boat later, pointing to their fingernails hoping to receive paddled up to our boat. The women and children offered baskets and necklaces for paddled up to our boat. The women and children offered from trees — quite rough and trade. The dugout canoes were obviously hand-hewn the heat of the sun, cracks rustic in their construction. As the canoes dry out in but rather the water is con- develop, causing them to leak. The holes are not filled with one or more bailers. tinuously bailed out. Nearly every canoe had one paddler ness closed in, we discovered why. The mosquitoes became thick and aggressive to ness closed in, we discovered why. The mosquitoes became and seek cover. After dark the point we found it necessary to hurry back to our boats we enjoyed a most excel- the mosquitoes abated and we returned to the lodge where It was easily the best lent meal of breaded pan-fried piranha, potato and vegetables. US$8 per plate. restaurant meal we’ve had in a long time, and cost about ed by flotillas of rich, emerald-green water hyacinth. It gave the appearance that the hyacinth. It gave the appearance of rich, emerald-green water ed by flotillas that large float- garden. We had heard in the center of a large green boat was settled its anchor. We cause a boat to drag water hyacinth could actually ing masses of pulling the hya- boat, where we could start through and up to our pushed our way current would the clumps of hyacinth, the we pulled and separated cinth away. As 15 minutes to the next piece. It took about and allow us to go after carry them away free the boat. —

APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 CHANEY Canaima Fallsfromtheair.‘Despiteasleepingcaptainandso-soweather,welandatcampwithoutincident’ VHF channel 14 C&N Port LouisMarina VHF channel14C&NPort Tel: +14734357431or415 0820 Email: [email protected] Visiting Yachts Rental: &Berth Grenada’s StTropez, answertoStBarts, CostaSmeralda,Portoﬁno... so pleasecontactusinadvanceofyourbusiness. availabilityislimited sales.Duetoongoingdevelopment,presentberthing berth andlong-term on property LouisSalesOfﬁce,includinginformation Louisprojectareavailableat thePort DetailsoftheentirePort services. The CreoleVillage includesshops,arestaurant/bar, andtheCapitainerie,whichcanprovidefullmarinesupport from10to40metres. and200berths berths During thecourseofthisyearwewillbeaddingninesuperyacht LouisMarinaisnowopen. Phase oneofCamper&NicholsonsPort Find usintheLagoon,St.George’s, Grenada. byDeanna Discovering theLost World AngelFallsAdventure of Venezuela’s Tepuis

Tel: +35622480000 Email: [email protected] SalesManagerAnnaTaboneInternational Long Term Sales: Berth

ALL ASHORE… Chaney

—Continuedonnextpage La Cruzistimedtocatcha9:00 Bahia RedondaMarinainPuerto taller thanNiagaraFalls. longest has atotaldescentof3,212feet.The as thefallsarecalledin beloved Auyantepui.SaltoAngel, ashes werecastuponthetopofhis death in1956,JimmyAngel’s Cuidad Bolivarairport.Afterhis plane isnowondisplayatthe through thejungle.Therestored civilization afteran11-daytrek descend thetepuiandreturnto his companionsmanagedto remained for33years.Angeland the planewashopelesslystuckand marsh ontopofAuyantepui,where Angel landedhismonoplaneinthe with hiswifeandtwocompanions. ern Venezuela.Hereturnedin1937 tepuis flat-topped mountains,called falls in1933whenheflewoverthe South America.Angelfirstsawthe searched forlegendarygoldin bush pilotfromMissouriwho are namedforJimmyAngel,a Angel FallsinVenezuela. one oftheworld’sgreatwonders, cruisers foramemorabletripto and Ijoinedtenotheradventurous August 2007,myhusbandNick “jello plan”. cover thisscheduleisjustanother on Sunday.However,wesoondis- Falls, andreturntoPuertoLaCruz travel upriveronSaturdaytoAngel spend FridayatCanaimaFalls, According toouritinerary,we’ll the campatCanaimaFalls. flight departingCuidadBolivarfor Our predawndeparturefromthe Friday The tallestwaterfallsintheworld At 3:30onarainymorningin (teyPOOeez),insoutheast- drop is2,648feet,15times Spanish, Spanish, AM

APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 !” we demand. Carlos promises !” we demand. AM “What about lunch? We haven’t eaten lunch? We haven’t eaten “What about By now the rain has resumed, so a cov- By now the rain has resumed, trip, the canoe About 30 minutes into the Our journey continues into the heart of The manager arrives, but he doesn’t speak arrives, but he doesn’t speak The manager tries again to convince English. So Carlos Falls today. us to go to Angel since 6:00 we’ll have a picnic on the boat approximate- we’ll have a picnic from now. About this time, ly two hours through our group, carrying waiters weave of smothered steak and rice aromatic plates group seated at the table. to the other tour in our group are By now the hungry gringos Ultimately, ready to devour their tour guide. pull on after all the fussing, we obediently departure. our rain gear and prepare for transport us to ered mini-truck arrives to awaits. We the riverfront where our canoe only ten for the pass around the lifejackets, in the back 12 of us. Our luggage is loaded a plastic tarp; of the canoe and covered with the front of the the gringos sit two-by-two in back to drive the boat. There is a pilot in the to watch for boat, a bowman with an oar rocks, and debris and steer the boat around our guide, Carlos. for a is landed and we all disembark flat savannah. 30-minute hike across the too dangerous, The rapids in this area are while our pilot so we must walk around takes the boat by water. Once back on board, our picnic lunch is distributed. Each lunch box contains two sandwiches con- sisting of a hot dog bun with a slice of ham and cheese, a small package of plain cook- ies, and a mint. Only ten boxes are passed out, so some folks have to share. Bottles of water are also provided. It’s obvious that there won’t be a potty stop during the four- and-a-half-hour trip, so I take just a few sips and try to visualize the desert. tepui country. These sandstone plateaus formed over the course of three billion years when the African and South American continents split apart and erosion created the river valleys. Stark and brown, the rocky tepuis rise vertically from densely forested hills. —Continued on next page

CHANEY Pioneering pilot Jimmy Angel grounded his small plane atop Auyan tepui and Pioneering pilot Jimmy Angel grounded his small plane had to hike back out

AM . The posa- PM (strong café marrón with guest rooms and a restaurant. We Continued from previous page Continued from “We’re going to Angel Falls today,” Carlos Despite a sleeping captain and so-so weath- Despite a sleeping captain and Just after noon we finally board the twin- Just after noon we finally After three hours of speeding down a rain- After three hours informs us. This will be a four- to five-hour trip by boat and it’s already after 1:00 er, we land at the Canaima Falls camp with- er, we land at the Canaima the small airfield out incident. We’re met at Indian, who by Carlos, an indigenous Pemon will be our guide for the remainder of the trip. He advises us to apply sunscreen and bug spray, which seems overkill for a six-minute hike to the camp. The camp includes a da file into the restaurant and plop down our bags. Another tour group is already seated at a long table awaiting their lunch. We’re all famished and exhausted. “What’s for lunch?” we wonder, and then the hammer falls. engine plane that we thought had been engine plane that we thought it turns out, the reserved for our group. As on a first-come, plane serves passengers enters the first-serve basis. Our captain speech: “Hello, plane and gives us the safety you just came in I am your captain. The door door at the front is your emergency exit. This emergency, you is my exit. So if there’s an weather today guys go out the other way. The is 45 minutes. is, eh... so-so. The flight time please try to be I’m going to take a nap, so bucking for a job quiet.” This guy is obviously at Southwest Airlines. we’re crossing the famous Orinoco River and the famous Orinoco River we’re crossing Bolivar airport in plenty arrive at the Cuidad by our flight. We’re greeted of time to catch local tour company representa- Natasha, the that rain has caused tive, who explains so we wait, and delays with the planes. And we wait, and we wait.... angry reply from the bedraggled gringos: “No way! That’s not what we were told. We’re starving and tired and we’re staying here!” Carlos patiently explains that the posada is full and we can arrive at Angel Falls before dark if we leave now. In the American tradi- tion, we demand to speak to his manager. coffee topped with steamed milk). By 8:30 coffee topped soaked, pot-holed highway, we stop for pas- highway, we stop for soaked, pot-holed cups of tries and hot — APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 water makingthenavigationmoretreacherous. the rapidsarerougher.Largebouldersjutoutof gringos arenowshivering.Theriverhasnarrowedand dusk approaches,itstartsrainingagainandthewet use theirDixiecupstobailoutthesinkingcanoe.As of theboatfillswithwater.Westopandgringos repeatedly chokesandsputters.Atonepoint,therear est, the48-horsepowerYamahaoutboardengine ture teaus inspiredSirArthurConanDoyle’sclassicadven- mits. Formidableandmysterious,theseancientpla- the sheercliffs,fallingshortoftepuis’loftysum- — the flatmountaintopintoamistycloud.Withrainpelt- Falls loomsaboveus,torrentsofwatercascadingfrom a magnificentsighttotakeyourbreathaway.Angel minutes later,weroundabendandstraightaheadis under theclouds’ ‘I openmyeyestoseeAngelFallsplayingpeek-a-boo Around 5:00 As wemakeourwayupriveranddeeperintothefor- Green fingersofvegetationseemtoclawtheirwayup Continued frompreviouspage The LostWorld PM , Carlossayswe’regettingclose.Afew . ids of the Churun River, the pilot revs up our gasping ids oftheChurunRiver,pilotrevsupourgasping and nerve-racking.Aswebuckourwayagainsttherap- inspiring wonders. opportunity towitnessoneofnature’strulyawe- ing myface,Isayasilentprayerofthanksforthe eggs, asliceofhamandcheese, say more? means nowaterpressuretoflushthetoilets.NeedI camp guideshaven’tstartedthegeneratoryet.This the peacefulnessofmorning.Forsomereason, moving ataslowpace,takingpictures,andenjoying Falls playingpeek-a-booundertheclouds.Everyoneis sheet andmosquitonet,IopenmyeyestoseeAngel sheet againstthemorningchill.Spreadingapart self: packearplugsnexttime. soothing lullaby.Andthenthesnoringstarts.Noteto on thetinroof,whilechurningriverprovidesa river. Thenit’sanhour’shikeupamuddyandslippery fed, weloadupinthecanoeforaquicktripacross biscuits noteasilydigested),andcoffee.Sufficiently

The last hour of the trip is the most difficult: cold, wet, The lasthourofthetripismostdifficult:cold,wet, Our guidesserveusaheartybreakfastofscrambled I awakencocoonedinmyhammock,snuggleda Saturday CHANEY 8:30 Spirits areimproving! clothes andpassesaroundtherum. rooms. Everyonechangesintodry supplies waterpressureinthebath- lightbulbs strungundertheroofand ers, andasink.Ageneratorpowers with twotoilets,non-functioningshow- are men’sandwomen’sbathrooms,each hammocks slungfromtherafters.There floor beneathatinroof,withcolorful the rockyshorebelowourcamp. lighting theway,pilotbeachesuson though, andwiththesun’sfinalglimmer night approaching.TheYamahaprevails and carriedrapidlydownstreamwith gringos willbeinthewater,scattered, know thatiftheenginediesnow, within inchesoflargeboulders.Weall engine whilethebowmanguidesus our hammocks.Agentlerainpatters and thelightsoff,weallcollapseinto tomato/onion salad.Withfullbellies roasted overabarbecuepit,rice,and Our long-awaiteddinnerisservedat The campisanopenpavilion,asandy PM andit’sdelicious:chicken arepas (heavy corn —Continuedonnextpage pack thoseearplugs? Lying inbedwideawake,Iberatemyself.Whydidn’t the crowing,averitablesymphonyonourdoorstep. seem togetthesunrisething.Soonbarkingdogsjoin hours byaroosterjustoutsideourdoorwhodoesn’t rest isshort-livedthough.We’reawakenedinthewee I guessweeventuallytuneitoutandfallasleep.Our crawl intoourseparatebeds,thewailingstartsagain. child nextdoorissilent.However,aboutthetimewe an eggplantandvegetablesauté,rice,bread. group istruckedbacktothemainposadafordinner: showers, althoughthereisn’tanyhotwater.Laterour ing whenweleavefordinner.Wedogetmuch-needed screaming whenweenterourroomandisstillscream- next totheinnkeeper’squarters.Nextdoor,achildis Nick andIgetaspartanroomwiththreesinglebeds single beds.Ah,thatspecialfeelingkeepsgrowing. so twocoupleswillhavetosharearoomwithfour inform usthattherearen’tenoughroomsforallofus, We’re feelingprettyspecialbynow. us here.Instead,we’llbesenttoanearbyposada. posada. OnceagainCarlostellsusthere’snoroomfor lug ourgearaboutamiledownmuddyroadtothe Canaima Falls,there’snotrucktotransportussowe once again. jackets aswavesboardtheboatandsoakgringos We’re expectingadriertrip,butquicklyreachforour the fasterdownstreamtriptoCanaimacamp. fish/tomato sauce.By2:00 falls, butnottoday. tions, visitorsareallowedtoswimatthebaseof mist beforejoiningtheriverbelow.Incalmercondi- tepui. Thefree-fallingwaterexplodesintoaswirling a roaringriverburstsfromcrevicesatthetopof The viewisspectacularthough.Sinceit’swetseason, quite treacherous,anOSHAinspector’snightmare. drop-off. Sprayandwindfromthefallsmakearea compete forspaceonarockyprecipiceoversheer are thereanyguardrails.About30to40tourists joins theriver.There’snoviewingplatformhere,nor vides aviewofAngelFallsnearthebottomwhereit way, lookingforsnakes. over roots,mudpuddles,andlogs.Carlosleadsthe path throughthejungle.Wecarefullypickourway When wereturntoourroom,we’rerelievedthatthe Upon arrivalatPosadaKaikuse,theinnkeepers When wearrivebackattheriver’sedgejustabove Back atcamp,lunchisspaghettiwithasurprising We ultimatelyreachMiradorSaltoAngel,whichpro- PM we’reinthecanoefor

APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 ARBOUR 284 495-5685

Fax: 284 495-5706 ACHT Y VHF Ch: 16 Full Service Marina Facility during hurricane season. LEAVE YOUR BOAT Web: www.vgmarina.biz ORDA G located within convenient walking distance. IN OUR CARE THIS SUMMER 284 495-5318

Tel: 284 495-5500 IRGIN laundry facilities, and an office of the BVI Tourist Board all in fax facilities, free wireless internet access, fuel, water and ice, offering insurance approved hurricane pits to secure your vessel Our facility located in the heart of beautiful Virgin Gorda comprises a pristine and relaxing environment. BVI Customs and immigration chandlery, restaurant, bakery, clothing store, dive shop, phone and V Onsite amenities and services include a bank/ATM, a supermarket, a 111-slip marina and a boatyard with 12 acres of dry storage space : a fried egg, pancake with jelly, and the usual slices with jelly, and the : a fried egg, pancake AM Angel Falls Tips . Okay, we are feeling special now. Then it’s back in the van for the bone- . Okay, we are feeling special malecón Continued from previous page Continued from The Angel and Canaima waterfalls are spectacular, and this trip will certainly be are spectacular, and this trip will certainly be The Angel and Canaima waterfalls • Don’t forget the EARPLUGS! • For more background and breathtaking video of the tepuis, watch the PBS docu- • For more background and breathtaking video of the • Bring a seat cushion for the long canoe trip. beverage at the falls, bring • Pack some snacks and water. If you want an alcoholic • Verify vaccination requirements for entering Cuidad Bolivar. Our group got yel- • Verify vaccination requirements for entering Cuidad • Bring waterproof footwear that has good tread. Sandals and Crocs are too slip- • Bring waterproof footwear that has good tread. Sandals • Pack lightly but be sure to take extra changes of dry clothes. • Pack lightly but be sure to take extra changes of dry to December), so bring • The falls are most spectacular during rainy season (June • Undertake a trip to Angel Falls with a sense of adventure. It’s more like camping • Undertake a trip to Angel Falls with a sense of adventure. Sunday at 8:00 Breakfast is served Natasha greets us at the airport and apologizes for our problems. She arranges for and apologizes for our problems. She arranges for Natasha greets us at the airport For the trip back to Cuidad Bolivar, Nick and I end up on two different single- For the trip back to Cuidad one of the most treasured memories of our cruise. Although the logistics didn’t go memories of our cruise. Although the logistics didn’t one of the most treasured to be flexible when traveling in remote areas. Venezuela quite as expected, we learned natural beauty. It offers islands with powdery white is a country of unsurpassed We lush jungles, majestic mountains, and fertile plains. beaches and pristine water, country before we leave. hope to see more of this incredible jarring ride home, arriving at the marina just after dark. jarring ride home, arriving mentary “The Lost World: Venezuela’s Ancient Tepuis.” your own. low fever shots. pery. Keens are a good choice. rain gear and some warm clothing. However, crowds are usually smaller during rain gear and some warm clothing. However, crowds dry season. than five-star travel, and you should expect the unexpected and be flexible. A little than five-star travel, and you should expect the unexpected Mother Nature’s power discomfort is a small admission price to experience firsthand and beauty. — several taxis to take us to a market area on the Orinoco River. We have a delicious a market area on the Orinoco River. We have a delicious several taxis to take us to of followed by a quick stop at the shoreside festivities lunch with a fabulous view, the engine, five-passenger planes. Once on course, the pilot on Nick’s plane pulls out a Once on course, the pilot on Nick’s plane pulls out engine, five-passenger planes. about Lady Diana. When another plane appears just newspaper and reads an article a port wing, the pilot pulls out his cell phone and takes a few hundred feet off the picture of it. of ham and cheese. Afterwards, eight of our group join Carlos for the Sapo Falls tour. group join Carlos for the Afterwards, eight of our of ham and cheese. and a torrential path between the rock wall our way down a narrow We gingerly pick is all that stands A single rope guardrail thundering over the falls. cascade of water The waterfall is could mean disaster. the slippery edge. A misstep between us and below. In some who fell onto the rocks would easily crush anyone so powerful it to see. If path making it nearly impossible curves back across our places, the water idea. The fire hose, you’ll have the general standing in front of a you can imagine and wet and awestruck. gringos are once again cold APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 Great Pond, out to the three-mile limit, excluding Buck Great Pond,outtothethree-milelimit,excludingBuck and shorelinefromGreenCayaroundPointUdallto Croix EastEndMarinePark,whichincludesthewaters Virgin IslandsgovernmentapprovedrulesfortheSt. regular visitorsdon’tknowabout.LastOctober,theUS sailors, hernorthshorealsohasmanysitesthateven The beachatthefriendlySt.CroixYachtClubonTeagueBay WHILE

unknown tomost shore isstill St. Croix’s south Marine Parkhasmadesomeofthesespotsalittle spells “special”inmanyacruiser’slogbook,andthe and hercrewcanenjoythatareignoredbymost.That be quitesurprisedtofindseverallovelyspotsayacht tours ofthebayswithinitsboundaries. preserved —theParkhasofferedWednesdaymorning the publicregardingwonderstobefound—and Island ReefNationalMonument.Aspartofeducating Those whoreadonlythepopularcruisingguideswill Association (www. Reserve, ownedbytheSt.CroixEnvironmental non-volcanic island. rupt thesandyshoresarebasalt,unusualonthis sea. Theshinyblackrockveinsthatoccasionallyinter- sediment andmineralsunderthebeachinto pond createshydraulicpressureandpushes structures formedwhenthewaterinalandlocked though theyareman-made,butactuallygeological ing, nestingorhatchinginthelightofmoon. prohibited. Luckycampersmaywitnessturtlesmat- manchineel) forcamping,thoughfiresandvehiclesare the seagrapeandmahoetrees(butsteerclearof should avoiddisturbing.Thereisplentyofroomunder back seaturtlesnestonthebeach,whichhikers fly above.Endangeredhawksbill,greenandleather- osprey, frigatebirds,whiteternsandbrownpelicans manta rayandbarracudainhabitChenayBay,while lizard canbefound.Conch,lobster,snapper,stingray, pelican rookeryandthelastplaceSt.Croixground sports atthefareasternendofbay. has adockinshallowwater,restaurantandwater western partofthebay.TheChenayBayBeachResort are availableinasmuchsixfeetofwater,towardthe showers, fuel,andfinedining.ThePark’sdaymoorings or maytakeaslipinGreenCayMarina,whichoffers sand. YachtsmayalsoanchorintheleeofGreenCay the waterisdeepenoughformostyachtstoanchorin lively reefsandshorttrailstoserenesaltponds. ride toeithermooringorshoreforsecludedbeaches, anchored indeeperwater,it’sashortdinghyorkayak accommodate shallow-draftboats.Fromayacht ings (currentlyfreeofcharge)havebeeninstalledto more convenientthantheywerebefore. aksatu sea back fly above. osprey, manta ra lizard canb pelican roo s has adock western par are availabl s or ma s the wateris livel ride toeith anchored i accommod —Continuedonnextpage other infrastructureimprovements. able ReserveCenter,birdblinds,walkingtrailsand of designinganenvironmentallysensitiveandsustain- uses foreducationandresearch.SEAisintheprocess includes mangroveforestsandgrasslands,whichSEA duck, Caribbeancootandleasttern.Thereservealso endangered species:white-cheekedpintail,ruddy dent andmigratorybirds,includingfourterritorially area, animportantrefugeandbreedingsiteforresi- on aneasytrailleadstoalargesaltpondandwetlands ports atth howers, and. Yacht The beachliesadjacenttotheSouthgateCoastal The sandstoneledgesfoundinthebaylookas Green Cayisanationalwildliferefugewithbrown East ofGreenCayliespeacefulChenayBay,where Chenay Bay From ChenayBaytoCottonGardenBay,daymoor- Green Ca E Chena g( ast o y ree y tak f f y ri f G f y s

u ga

B n E a k e a e y e e a r e e t stxenvironmental.org) . Ashorthike APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 stxeastend- , or call (340) 773-3367, for Wednesday Carol Kramer-Burke, SEA program director, Cotton Garden Bay Cotton Garden Garden Bay, Park moorings at Cotton East of Teague and snor- are invited to swim, dive Visiting cruisers The St. Croix East End Marine Park is part of the US with empty turtle shells from a nest at Chenay Bay history, anthropology, geology and culture. Check the history, anthropology, geology and culture. Check the East End Marine Park calendar at www. Bay are in front of Cramer’s Park, a large sandy public of Cramer’s Park, a large Bay are in front designated facilities. These bays are beach with some diving, Areas:” swimming, snorkeling, “Recreational 100 feet of line fishing within boating and recreational shore are permitted. To get waters and to enjoy the beaches. kel in the park free interpre- of the Marine Park, take a even more out Farchette III. He is a walk- tive tour with Ranger John of St. Croix flora, fauna, ing, talking encyclopedia morning walking tours of the Park’s bays and adjacent morning walking tours of the Park’s bays and adjacent salt ponds, and for Saturday snorkel clinics, too. Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources, Coastal Zone Management Division. Headquarters are located at the Great Pond Estate on St. Croix’s south shore. marinepark.org

Teague Bay Tague, or Teague Bay is Trails lead through shore Trails lead through shore further east to anchor. Park further east for tenders and moorings are snorkelers small craft, while and swimmers enjoy the pristine reefs and rocks. The beach is usually deserted the except on weekends. In words of Marine Park Ranger John Farchette III, “When out you’re on the beach, look — to sea: you’re all alone unless somebody says something.” vegetation to salt ponds, where deer and big blue land crabs share the peaceful brackish water with birds, mongoose and other island critters. Chenay, Coakley and Prune Bays have been designated “No Take Areas,” where commercial and recreational fishing are prohibited. No official word on kite boarding, but it looks good here and elsewhere on the north shore, especially during the Christmas winds. In the southwestern corner of Teague Bay, moorings well-known for its friendly St. Croix Yacht Club, which well-known for its friendly St. Croix Yacht Club, which welcomes cruisers with warm Crucian hospitality, a dinghy dock, showers and clubhouse. The barrier reef protects the bay from the roughest seas and offers divers and snorkelers hours of fun. Yachts may enter the reef at Coakley Bay, leaving the “G1” beacon to port: proceed east about 1.7nm, keeping to the middle of the channel, watch for and avoid the easy-to-see patch reefs on either side. in front of Duggan’s Reef Restaurant are in shallow water and offer a spot to tie the tender while snorkeling or swimming. isolated coral heads and the patch reef between the heads and the patch reef isolated coral the anchor in sand to avoid disturbing two bays, and is Pull Point, the west end of Prune Bay sea grass. At roof, once house with a green featuring a prominent of the atomic Oppenheimer, father the home of Robert the swift cur- about radiation, but bomb. No worries mariner shoreline will send the prudent rent and rocky Continued from previous page Continued from Coakley Bay and Prune Bay Coakley Bay and Prune Bay lie west of the “G1” bea- Early mornings are best for sighting teals, pintails, are best for sighting teals, Early mornings con (approximately 17˚45’59”N, 064˚38’11”W) and con (approximately 17˚45’59”N, 064˚38’11”W) and offer pleasant day anchorages in nine to 13 feet of water within a short distance of the beach. Watch for the still, brackish water. A barrier reef protects Teague Bay from the roughest seas and offers divers and snorkelers hours of fun ducks, herons, moorhens, warblers, stilts and other moorhens, warblers, stilts ducks, herons, land crabs Tiny fiddler and large wetland species. iguana and with birds, mongoose, share the pond mud around can be seen in soft deer, whose footprints — APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 Danielle DeRouck.Backrow:UlrichMeixner,PeterRouck With mysupportteam.Lefttorightfrontrow:TedBull,Teresa,me, ble ofamagnificentprimevaldisplay. to seethat,thoughbesiegedbytechnologyandpollution,ourplanetwasstillcapa- reminded meofafallenmammoth.Butthishistoriccreaturewasalive.Iglad volcano layheapedontheflathorizonandbreathedoutawhitetuskofsteam.It Montserrat anditsactivevolcanothatwere30milestomynorthwest.SoufrièreHills paddleboard. Bythelightofaverybrightfullmoon,Iclearlysawtallisland person evertocrossthe30-milechannelbetweenMontserratandGuadeloupeona rippled, moonlitwater;itwastwo-thirtyinthemorning.Ihopedtobefirst —Continuedonnextpage Or shedoesn’t. either eruptortheydon’t.Apaddleboarder eithermakesitacrossa30-milechannel. the barehandsandarms.Loverseither consummatetheirlove,ornot.Volcanoes lovemaking, orlikeavolcano.Apaddleboarder usesnomotor,paddleorsail,just ocean manytimesinalifetime,andvice versa.Paddleboardingisprimitive,like behind themonthesand. this case,love.Theysankslowlydown togetheronayellowbeachtowelspread York twintowers:innocent,abouttobe bowledoverbyalethalflyingobject—in surf, IheardthemwhispertoeachotherinFrench.TheyremindedmeoftheNew in ablackthongbikini.Theystaredintoeachother’seyes.Betweenthecrashes of toothed, slimboyworearedSpeedobrief;thesmiling,plump,longhairedgirldanced intense moonlight.Theirdarkhandsdartedovereachother’sbodies.Thewhite- vous. Itookalastlookattheshoreandsawtwoloversdallyonpalesandin before onapaddleboard.Now,IworkedtoconnecttheLeewardIslands. and betweenSt.LuciaVincent.AsfarasIknew,noneofthishadbeendone from St.VincenttoGrenada,crossedthechannelsbetweenLuciaandGuadeloupe, waters oftheVirginIslands,inBahamasandTurksCaicos.I’dpaddled was myeighthCaribbeanpaddlingtrip.I’dpaddledmostlywithoutescortinhome sewn ontomyvisor.Thelightswouldhelpescortvesseltoseemeinthedark.It for mybow,redthestern—andthenactivatedtwowhitelightsticksthatI’d carryall attachedtothebowofmyboard.Icrackedchemicallightsticks—green I checkedtoseethatmysportsbars,waterandsunscreenweresecureinthemesh smelled thebriny,pungentoceanthroughsweet-smellingzincoxideonmynose. protection, thenchilledbythecoolnortheastbreeze,Isweatedandshivered. in thedistance Taking abreak,withMontserratanditssinister-lookingvolcanicplume Oh well,Ithought,wouldmakelove to thesea.Apaddleboardercaresses I hadtrainedhardandfeltreadytopaddletheGuadeloupeChannel.wasner- Hot inthelong–sleevedredsurfingjerseyandpurpletightsthatIworeforsun I Paddleboarding Paddleboarding

long, whitefiberglasspaddleboardbobbedandchuckledbesidemeinthewind- water wasstillwarminOctoberfromthehotCaribbeansummer.My14-foot- stood waistdeepintheoceanoffabeachnearDeshaies,Guadeloupe.The to Montserrat by SusanChaplin APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 473 443 8783 VHF Channel 16 Aquanauts Dive Center www.truebluebay.com [email protected] Resort & Villas Resort Indigo Car Rentals & Horizon Yacht Charters True Blue Bay Marina Bay Marina True Blue Dock, moor or set anchor at True Blue Bay located in the south Bay located in the south or set anchor at True Blue Dock, moor full service marina and and enjoy our coast of Grenada Caribbean cocktails and delicious fabulous accommodation. Dodgy Dock Lounge Bar and dishes are a must at our waterside five minutes walk from Spice True Blue Restaurant. Located five minutes drive from the airport. Island Marine Services and

BENITO PINTO ; I’d been at sea for 12 hours), I knew what I was after. Not just a PM Continued from previous page Continued from Uli and Teresa monitored me from the dinghy. When they saw a hiatus in the surf Going in to touch Montserrat would be the hardest part of my challenge. To make Everything that I wanted was on Montserrat. I pushed myself to the point of col- Six miles from the south tip of Montserrat, I turned into a seriously tired old lady. Six miles from the south tip of Montserrat, I turned into Daybreak showed me that I was closer to Montserrat than I thought. Uli and Teresa Daybreak showed me that I was closer to Montserrat than The moon and stars vanished under dark clouds. In total darkness, I felt disori- The moon and stars vanished I did not want to breathe diesel fumes, so I had asked my chase boat, a sturdy boat, a sturdy so I had asked my chase to breathe diesel fumes, I did not want The wind was only five knots, but northeast and a headwind. Paddling out from and a headwind. Paddling only five knots, but northeast The wind was My strong support team was responsible for my good luck. I was reminded that in accomplishing something big, hope and despair go hand- Left, right, left, right.… Paddling to Puerto Rico in 2006, Left, right, left, right.… Paddling to Puerto Rico in 2006, this shot shows Susan’s set-up they shouted, “Go!” I made it in to an eddy behind a boulder that was part of the shore. When I heard the sharp crack of my board hitting solid stone on Montserrat (it was 2:30 a “legal” point-to-point channel crossing, I’d have to tag the land on both ends of my crossing. Much of the southeast and southwest coast of Montserrat, up to two miles offshore, is in the Exclusion Zone (due to volcanic danger) and thus off limits to mariners. But Shoe Rock where I planned to land is protected from dangerous ash flow by the South Soufrière Hills. It would be hard to get in there. Two-meter waves crashed against the steep rocks and tossed salt spray high in the air. lapse. What was it that I wanted so much to permit myself such agony? Ironed smooth under the scorching sun, the sea began to look cold and lumpy. After paddling for 24 calm miles, I was suddenly forced to sprint in a 12-knot northwest headwind (an unusual wind for the Caribbean) and to fight three to four-foot wind chop. Water sluiced over my head. A fast-moving eastbound current seized me like a game fish taking bait. I was pulled east into the Atlantic Ocean. Montserrat had been so close that I could smell volcanic sulfur and see stones in the cliffs; now the island began to slip away westward. I couldn’t believe that I might not get there. Like any competitor who doesn’t want to be beaten, I dug deep. buzzed me in the dinghy to offer food and water at the end of a boat hook — a sanc- buzzed me in the dinghy to offer food and water at the and paddlers. My leg cramps tioned method of nourishing long-distance swimmers at between three and four eased. I was riding a northwest current and paddled had arrived to bring me ideal knots, faster than usual. A forecast weather window board slipped through the paddling conditions. The wind dropped completely. My above Montserrat and a smooth water. The rising sun painted the eruptive column halfway to Montserrat, and nearby cumulus cloud brilliant pink. I was more than stopped the boat to let people still no wind. My crew enjoyed themselves. Captain Uli in the dinghy. The big smooth dive from the stern. Uli and Teresa surfed the swell hills of water to look down waves made paddling exciting. I clawed my way up blue like a surfer while my boat on the mast of my boat. Then I glided into wave troughs became an amusement park, hung up above me on a wave top. My paddling trip complete with childish shouts, “Wheeee!” motored quickly into the distance. Windblown waves broke over me. I often fell off motored quickly into the distance. Windblown waves on. A fish jumped and col- my board, was rolled underwater, and had to climb back paddling, my calves cramped lided with my left ear. Though I didn’t use them for into cannonballs. ented and nauseated. Lit by the glow of my light sticks, my face, reflected on my wet the glow of my light sticks, my face, reflected on my ented and nauseated. Lit by chase boat allowed me to almost catch up and then board, said, “Sixty-two.” My catamaran, to stay 400 yards ahead of me. Aboard my escort vessel were two vessel were two of me. Aboard my escort stay 400 yards ahead catamaran, to in 2003, and the St. Lucia Channel watched me cross the 22-mile friends who had in St. Lucia Meixner of DSL Yachting Channel in 2004. Ulrich 26-mile St. Vincent living in Ted Bull, a nautical Englishman sponsor and captain, and was again my offer his soft-spoken encouragement. New faces were St. Lucia, was there to De Rouck. Our tribute to youth and beauty was crew- Belgian: Danielle and Peter sailing instructor new to St. Lucia. It was a good member Teresa, a young English proud by crossing the Guadeloupe Channel and tagging team. I hoped to do them land on Montserrat. the lee of the beach, I was lifted on large swells generated by a distant storm. I settled swells generated by a distant I was lifted on large the lee of the beach, on my knees while lying prone, a hundred — a hundred strokes in to my paddling and arms felt the water. the rhythm as my hands — and enjoyed — in-hand. The lovers on the beach in Deshaies told me that love is absolute power; the people who think that absolute power corrupts are absolutely wrong. The fish that hit me in the ear whispered, “You spend a lot of time with fishes. But don’t think you’re one of us.” The dawn said that a pretty daybreak could start a peaceful day. Or, as when Mt. Pelée in 1902 killed 30,000 people on Martinique, it can herald a lethal eruption. For me, the rosy dawn brought the chance to be first to cross the 30-mile Guadeloupe Channel on a paddleboard. Success was sweet, but I realized that at any time my luck could have turned sour. moment of glory. I recalled the lessons of the day: Montserrat had reminded me of what a privilege it is to glide through the ocean pulled by the broad blue spinnaker of the sky. APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 Tel: +596(0)5967480Fax:[email protected] Centre deCarenage97290LeMarin

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Our Malo43, turning northeast. pause intheAvesshouldwechoose,andevencarryoneasttoRoquesbefore Islas delasAvestogetsomeeastingunderourbelt;thatalsogaveusthechance we werehopingtotakeadvantageofflatterseasatnight.Wehaddecidedhead most oftheforecastingseemedtobeinourfavour.Itwasmidnightaswedeparted; had beengenerallytoohighfrommid-JanuarytoFebruarybutthedaycamewhen Bonaire isseductive. going butsomepartofuswantedtoremainput.Thatgentleswingingonabuoyin —Continuedonnextpage north? Thedaywasfullofanticipatoryexcitement. cluster ofwind-sweptandremoteislands, wouldwecarryoneast,orhead settled intoourfirstnightandthree hourson,threeoffroutine. headlands havethishabit.Withinanhour orsomyhusbandandIwerebothwell Bonaire to

WE We hadwaitedmanyweeksforaweatherwindowourpassagenorth.Thewinds Daylight cameandtheAveswereinsight. Wouldwestopandrestinthatbeautiful The southendofBonairegaveusareal thrashingbutwewerepreparedasmost HART & STONE & HART St. Croix Skysong,

had adayofgood-byestogoodfriendsandwereeagerget place inthecruisinggamehasplussesandminuses:wehad Kralendijk, Bonaire,underawaxingmoon.Amonthinone untied fromthebuoysandgentlyslidawaylightsof isawonderfulfriendinheavysea by TriciaChapman

APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33

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and ricochetting Skysong Skysong . She’s a real beauty and a wonderful friend in a . She’s a real beauty and was quivering and bucking at the same time, as she Skysong was a real turn-around for me. It instantly took my mind off was a real turn-around for me. It instantly took my Skysong , situated in Antigua and awaiting our arrival. Hearing Sue’s , situated in Antigua and awaiting our arrival. Hearing was coping with this confused and messy sea. Ugly mountains of was coping with this confused Skysong Odyssey Skysong Continued from previous page Continued from Although no squalls had been forecast, in no time at all they became a serious Morning light brought our daily SSB connection with our dear friends Sue and Morning light brought our daily SSB connection with When the going got rough both birds fled but they returned shortly and re-negoti- When the going got rough both birds fled but they returned A full five minutes later a landing was negotiated for the first time. The arrival of A full five minutes later a landing was negotiated for snoring down below. To They remained with us for nine hours. Peter was happily The wind reached 30 to 35 knots during the squalls, with seemingly mountainous The wind reached 30 to 35 knots during the squalls, priority. For two hours or Another landing was achieved and preening was the first There is something magical about being alone out on the ocean with a silvery, wax- There is something magical about being alone out on the to withstand winds such The tenacity of this bird was enormous. Such an ability We bore away, things did become easier, and so my watch approached. Unrested We bore away, things did become easier, and so my watch All enjoyment of the passage disappeared rapidly for me, but Peter, my husband of disappeared rapidly for me, but Peter, my husband All enjoyment of the passage A sharp, loud crack and a flapping sail indicated the furling line to the genoa had flapping sail indicated the furling line to the genoa had A sharp, loud crack and a The wind picked up, and the seas became lumpy and uncomfortable as sunset the seas became lumpy and uncomfortable as sunset The wind picked up, and However the wind didn’t allow this course for long and a St. Maarten landfall for long and a St. Maarten wind didn’t allow this course However the We had many reasons for making a passage back to the Lesser Antilles island back to the Lesser reasons for making a passage We had many We decided to turn north between Aves Sotovento and Aves Barlovento and once Sotovento and Aves Barlovento turn north between Aves We decided to As time passed it became obvious to us that, despite our situation and increasing Cooking meals down below isn’t a problem for me in a heavy sea so we ate well with Morning light again brought a sense of relief, of joy in seeing the sunrise in spite Braced in advance, sitting in the companionway, my thoughts were everywhere. feature. The ominous clouds held quantities of rain and built from a small cell to large in a very short time, releasing their power on us with venom, it seemed. Our minds were taken back to our Atlantic crossing when at 7 o’clock each evening — the start of my watch, of course — line squalls arrived. We have radar on Peter on golden voice restored normality for me. She and Peter discussed our possible destinations, the latest weather forecast and methods for retrieving our unfurled genoa. For a while I was transported to our reunion in Barbuda, and a belated celebration of Sue’s 50th birthday, which we had missed due to weather. Again I was moder- ately cheered, despite the continually heavy seas and what had become known as the “great, white, flapping monster” (the genoa) taking over our lives. ated their sitting areas. One perched above me on the bimini cover, but not for long; ated their sitting areas. One perched above me on the preening, more twittering. they were soon back to the liferaft and the Jon-buoy. More They were happy even if I wasn’t. this bird on My mind had been taken have company on a night such as this seemed a rare treat. were going to make landfall in away from the CMG and the SOG, from whether we Republic, which we’d Puerto Rico, Haiti, St. Croix, St. Maarten or the Dominican been steering toward during the day. seas of 12 to 13 feet. Crouching as close to the companionway as I could, suddenly seas of 12 to 13 feet. Crouching as close to the companionway on it! I saw a booby bird wres- my eye was drawn to our liferaft; there was movement flapping flag but persistently tling with our ensign, getting wrapped up in the attempting to land on the liferaft. I heard the twittering of more I watched as she groomed herself. A mate arrived; Jon-buoy. I was amazed and friends greeting one another as her mate landed on the so happy to have their company. ing moon, a plethora of stars and only yourselves and your boat transporting you ing moon, a plethora of stars and only yourselves and when you are being buf- through the universe. However, the magic does fade rapidly spray is soaking your cosy feted from one side of the cockpit to the other and the sitting areas. with as these, using its wingspan to hold a rough position she was trying to establish a across the waves, buffetting up and down. But still proper footing. and unwilling, I went on deck with a hot cup of tea for Peter and with a little coaxing and unwilling, I went on deck with a hot cup of tea for I took my watch. centre my mind on. I was so myself, my worries and my fears. I had something to through the night with this grateful for it as I was feeling pretty scared as we roared us. fully flown genoa and heaving, undulating waves all around 42 years and Caribbean cruising chum for six, saw this immediately as the challenge42 years and Caribbean cruising relaxing on the buoys in Bonaire! I have a super-toleranthe had been missing while it about the condition we found ourselves in, husband but when I got over-excited to go below. Always calm in an emergency, and his crewdidn’t take him long to tell me a lot of moods and emotions to cope with on this occasion.being the opposite, we had bow There’s always only one skipper and I’m happy to Needless to say I went below. lay in the aft cabin praying forto his superior skills (when it involves sailing!). I just Sleep was not readilysafety that night and for the wise decisions of my husband. the boat was sounding soavailable. The bow was slamming into the waves, and on, seemingly out of control.unhappy with all her creaks and groans as she raced snapped. It was dark and we were not going to achieve much by going up to the bow were not going to achieve much by going up to the snapped. It was dark and we to sort things. heavy sea. She did us proud on the Atlantic in 2002; why should she not do us proud on the Atlantic in 2002; why should she not do us proud heavy sea. She did us proud the furled genoa and reefed main, we were content with again? So, with a one-third way us. thrashing, foamy waves encircled approached on our second night and reefing the sails was necessary. Our boat is a night and reefing the sails was necessary. Our boat approached on our second Swedish-built Malo 43, became more of a possibility. But there was a long way to go at this stage and we But there was a long way to go at this stage and became more of a possibility. our by dreaming of where we would end up. As long as were just amusing ourselves we would be happy — or so we thought. course was east and not west chain. We had been over in the Southern Caribbean for nearly three years, we han- Caribbean for nearly three been over in the Southern chain. We had to meet us we had special friends waiting favourite haunts, and kered after re-visiting make Barbuda that at one point we could laughed when we realised in Antigua. We perfection.... spot. To return would be it had been our favourite on this tack, as away from any inter-island chop reckoned on being able to judge the better sea state on being able to judge the inter-island chop reckoned away from any seemed nicely comfortable. North we chose and all — east or north? — winds and seas, a St. Croix landfall was going to be a possibility. This cheered us immensely. We had sailed from Bonaire to St. Croix the previous year and thor- oughly enjoyed all St. Croix had to offer. —Continued on next page the normal favourites of chili con carne, spaghetti bolognese, omelets, ham sandwiches and “cuppa soups” coming up through the hatch with regularity — always well received and appreciated. of loathing the movement the waves were creating under us. Sleep was becoming a rare commodity as raced along. I am so lucky being married to an ex-airline pilot. They are a breed which can survive with a cat-nap style of sleep. Me, I need a solid eight or nine hours to function correctly. I was really suffering here. However, after all these years together we are good at compromising, and many a watch I was generously donated the odd hour here and there. What was I doing? Had I really just said fond good-byes to all my newly made friends? Was I going to see them again? Where was our landfall going to be? Were we going to be safe? Was something else going to go wrong? I became adept at reading these beastly grey clouds that produced so much distur- bance and threat. APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 e-mail: [email protected]/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527(evenings) (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) Located oppositeG.Y.E. Come inandseeusforallyour

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Courtesy Flags & DivingGear Wir sprechenDeutsch Snorkeling andrepair Penn Service Penn Parts Penn Reels — and ontoawinch.Therewaslotofcanvastogetfurled. line tothebrokenendoffurlingandleadingitstraightbackintocockpit cussing howwewoulddothis.Wesettledhappilywiththeideaofattachinganother the “bigwhiteflappingmonster”safely.Muchtimewasspentovercupsofteadis- fall inSt.Croixandallwewouldexperiencethere. last sixyears. Tricia andPeterChapmanhavebeencruisingtheCaribbeanaboard sense ofachievementthatenvelopedusboth. home. Arestfulnightwasinsightandthesleepgoingtobeglorious,as reflecting onthepassage,appreciativeofwell-builthullprovidinguswithour beneath you?Werelaxedinthecockpitwithpristinesealappingaroundus, in asparklingsea,aquawaterallaroundyouandthechainsnakinggentlyaway was furledsuccessfullywithsighsofreliefandouranchorageinsight. deep fortheenergyrequiredtomotorsailwithafullyflowngenoa.Finally,genoa St. Croix.Theengineaidedourlasthour’sapproachin28knotsofwind,digging give usandwehadtobattleforthelastsixhoursgetupsouthwestcoastof manageable afteragoodbreakfastforusboth.Thewindsstillhadmuchenergyto bring downthegenoa. sight, eventhoughafewtackswerenecessarytoachievetheshelterweneeded Odyssey being withinsight.OurSSBconnectionwasmadeand,withSueandPeteron hope thatthiswouldbeourlastmorningonpassage,wehadasenseoflandfall skills cametotheforeandwithdaybreakonfourthmorning,hopingagainst every limb.Again,therelianceandtrustIhadinPeterkeptmegoing.Hisnavigating as highwecould; miliar andthereforewouldnotknowoftheshelteravailable. couldn’t keepupthecourseforSt.Croix,wewouldbeheadedsomewhereunfa- — as weroaredthroughthenight’ ‘The tenacityofthisbirdwasenormous…itinstantlytookmymindoffmyself But astimeprogressed,weobviouslyhadtoaddresstheproblemofbringingdown Another visitwouldbewelcome,soourtimewastakenupwithdreamingofland- Don’t youjustloveitwhencanseeyouranchordroppingontoasandbottom A glorioussightisland.Mywholedemeanourchanged;eventhetirednessbecame Every timeasquallhitus,itknockedusoffourfavouredcourse.Wewerepinching But aboveallwhatweneededwasgoodshelter.Oneofourworriesthatif Single-Handed Race J/24 Class Cruising ClassII Cruising ClassI Racing Class Continued frompage12 Continued frompreviouspage Yacht DivisionWinners 3) 2) 1) 2) 1) 1) 3) 2) 1) 3) 2) 1) 3) 2) 1) 3) 2) 1) willinguson,spiritswerelifted.WithinafewhourswehadSt.Croixin Kula Obock Klondike NON-CSA RATED Clippers Ship Sonadio 3 Hallucine CSA RATED Unbridled Attitude Kula Appleseeds Hot Chocolate Jaystar Bloody Mary Petit Careme Padig Clippers Ship Category 5 Jabal , Tartan41,MarkMacNeill,Canada , Tartan41,MarkMacNeill,Canada , NickForsberg,St.Lucia , Surprise,VianneySaintenoy,France(Martinique) , Fandango32,GildasCourrier,France (Martinique) , J/30,RonHunt,Barbados , BenjaminTodd,St.Lucia , Beneteau456,DonaldRadcliffe,USA , Open40,NicolasGillet,France(Martinique) , MikeGreen,St.Lucia , A40,YannLecam,France(Martinique) , Hobie33,RichardSzyjan,Grenada , SunOdessey40,PeterAsseltine,Canada Skysong , Hughes38,JerryStewart,Grenada(Carriacou) , Beneteau38,RawleBarrow,Trinidad&Tobago , Surprise,NicolasGillet,France(Martinique) , Surprise,NicolasGillet,France(Martinique) , C&C38,RichWashington,USA Bequia EasterRegatta2008 wascopingbeautifully,butweweretiredandwearyin Skysong forthe APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 is of tops .com The Panama Guide The Traditional Route to Florida The traditional route to the Miami or Fort Lauderdale This trip should be duck soup, but unfortunately it It is useful to carry a guidebook to the Bahamas. If When crossing the Gulf Stream to Florida, lay your Whenever running down wind, rig an anti-gybe pre- down wind, rig an anti-gybe Whenever running necessary, sure of a daylight arrival! If Finally, make charts show the location The relevant Imray-Iolaire also excellent. area departs from St. Thomas or Puerto Rico, taking a course of roughly northwest, skirting the northern edge of Muchoir and Silver Banks and the northeast- ern edge of the Bahamas, until you reach the northeast Providence Channel. Then swing west, through the northeast/north/west Providence Channel and on to Florida. On this route you should be broad reaching, or sailing dead downwind before the Trades. [See downwind rig described above.] has proven to be a great problem for insurance underwriters. I think the reason such a great number of boats are lost off the Bahamas is that they are coming from an area of high islands with, in most cases, deep water right up to the shore, then transiting an area of low islands with off-lying reefs and shoals extending two, three or even four miles offshore. I always say, “If you see a Bahamian island, you are two miles too close!” The only things you should see when sailing from the Eastern Caribbean to Miami are the the lighthouses on San Salvador and at the northern end of Eleuthera, and the top of the light marking the south end of the northwest Providence Channel. you have a breakdown and must stop there, with aid of a guidebook you can find your way into a harbor of refuge — entering in daylight only, of course. (Twice it has been necessary for me to do this on delivery trips.) course well to the south of your landfall, as the Stream (which can run as strong as three knots) will carry you northwards. —Continued on next page venter on the main boom. venter on the Blas Islands wait for sunrise. The San slow down and you’ll want surrounded by reefs, and are low-lying and make landfall eyeball navigation if you good light for entrance is well buoyed there. The Panama Canal’s lights ashore can be very and well lit, but the many has missed the channel confusing. More than one boat and dry on the beach, or at night and ended up high worse yet, on the breakwater. facilities in Venezuela and and capacity of all hauling HO charts are excellent, the ABC islands. Colombian However CMap and but only available in Cartagena. manufacturers do cover possibly other electronic chart the Colombian HO office the Colombian coast using ascertain if they are info. If using electronic charts, using US or BA info, as only the electronic charts based on the Colombian HO info will give detailed info on yacht anchorages. Zydler’s Leaving the Caribbean Leaving Part One: To Panama or the East Coast Part One: To Panama For passages such as this, where you may have heavy Approaching Panama Approaching last 200 or 300 miles, Approaching Panama for the yacht with a Moreover, a modern light-displacement fin keel really will get up and surf. Surfing down the fin keel really will get up and surf. Surfing down the face of a wave at 12 or 13 knots in a 45-foot boat is thrilling but dangerous, as you are traveling at almost the same speed as the wave. Because there is little or no water flowing over the rudder, you have no steerage and are therefore on the edge of disaster. A broach in these conditions is all too possible. weather while running dead down wind, I feel that a worthwhile investment is a drogue. This, once streamed, will tend to keep the stern square to the waves and thus minimize or eliminate the chances of broaching. stay well offshore when passing it. Also, the outflow at when passing it. Also, stay well offshore a really bad the Rio Magdalena creates the mouth of a tremendous times of the year, sea and, at certain pouring trees and other flotsam comes amount of logs, out of the river. and a hard you can expect to meet a counter-current velocity combined with the blow. The increasing wind the autopilot or wind- bad sea conditions mean that and you should hand vane should be disconnected will only steer according steer. The electronic autopilot take into account the wind to the compass; it will not will only help steer in and sea conditions. A windvane you surf down a wave relation to the wind, so when forward, the windvane will and the apparent wind goes possibly broach. cause the boat to bear off and SAILING DIRECTIONS BY DON STREET DIRECTIONS BY SAILING Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours Work • Refrigeration • Quiksilver Surf wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Restaurant & Bar • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop • Book Exchange • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238

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The seas around Cabo de Vela are always rough; As you progress westward, the wind and sea will If the wind is on the quarter, the main can be left up, If heading to Panama direct, rig for down wind. Hoist Heading to Panama Heading west to Panama, you can island-hop or Boats heading northwest to Charleston, Morehead/ Boats leaving the Caribbean for Florida often find Timing is Important to Panama are often Skippers heading westward Nothing could be further from the truth. Boats leav- Nothing could be further from ONE ONE

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both increase. Keep your boat speed down to l.2 or l.3 times the square root of the waterline length. If speed gets above this, slow down by starting to roll up the headsails one on top of the other. vanged down hard and held forward by a foreguy (pre- venter) led from the end of the boom to the stemhead. If the main is blanketing the lee headsail, douse the main but leave the boom out to act as an outrigger to correctly trim the lee headsail. two headsails on the roller-furling headstay. If the luff two headsails on the roller-furling headstay. If the luff lengths are not the same, add a pennant to the shorter headsail. The windward headsail’s sheet goes through the end of the spinnaker pole. The leeward headsail is trimmed through a block on the end of the main boom, forward to another block, thence back to a winch. cruise coastally (check www.safetyandsecuritynet.com cruise coastally (check www.safetyandsecuritynet.com for any current crime hotspots) or stay offshore. Beaufort, or the Chesapeake should wait till mid- or Beaufort, or the Chesapeake should wait till mid- or late May, as they are traversing an area where subtropical hurricanes can crop up through April and possibly later. These small, intense subtropical hurricanes were only spotted in recent years when weather information was gathered from satellites. Prior to this, since they were small and in an area where big ships seldom go, there were not enough reports of these storms to show up on the weather charts. themselves in trouble if they leave before mid-April. themselves in trouble if they leave before mid-April. They run into a “norther” — a northwest wind, dead on the nose. This wind then clocks to the north and then northeast, making the Silver Bank and the Bahamas a dead lee (deadly) shore! Boats heading farther north up the US East Coast also frequently run into trouble with a late-season northwesterly, blasting them with high winds and a severe temperature drop. But by late April, the northers that force their way down to Florida are not too strong. over-confident. They think this passage will be a nice, over-confident. They think But if they look at the US easy 900-mile downhill slide. that for the period from weather charts, they will note and for another period December to the end of March, east of Panama denot- in July, there is a big red circle of 12 feet or more. During ing expected wave heights the waves may not be the rest of the year, although you’re still likely to expected to reach these heights, near the end of the trip encounter rough conditions where there is a counter-current of up to one knot running against 15 to 25-knot tradewinds. ing the Caribbean for Panama, North America and ing the Caribbean for Panama, large sums each year, in Europe cost underwriters groundings and aban- heavy-weather damage claims, invariably these losses donment/total losses. Almost at the wrong time are due to leaving the Caribbean of year. has spent at least one winter cruising up and down the one winter cruising up has spent at least little risk of underwriters would see islands, insurance vessel’s any claims for such a well-tried having to pay the States or Europe, or subsequent trip back to onward to Panama. APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 HOTEL E-mail: [email protected]:www.frangipanibequia.com frangipani the jump up Thursday nights! our famous barbecue and our famous and barbecue • RESTAURANT Don’t miss

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Bequia • BAR Part Two:ToEurope. something anyseamanlikestocontemplate. strong northwesterblowingagainstthe Stream isnot wester. Beingstuckinthemiddleof Stream witha miles! Asperpreviouswarnings,watchout foranorth- for 24hours,wediscoveredhadmade only40 meander whileheadingnorthwest.After sailinghard documented asitistoday, Back in1975,whentheGulfStreamwasnotaswell southeast meander,whichwillstopyoualmostdead. what theGulfStreamisdoing.Frequentlytherea pretty mucharhumblinecourse,buttrytoascertain obtain areallygoodlong-rangeweatherforecast.Itis until lateMayorearlyJune.Itisessentialthatyou in galeconditionsisextremelydangerous. magnet, andenteringthenarrowSt.GeorgeChannel Bermuda ifnecessary.attractsgaleslikea sufficiently provisionedandpreparedtoby-pass the Customsdockandclear. navigation lights.Onceyouhaveentered,goalongside shore lightsmakeitdifficulttocorrectlypickoutthe night isnotadvisable.Althoughthechannelwelllit, ted 30ormoremilesoff. sheets andheadforBermuda.Theloomcanbespot- southwest. Ifyouarewestoftherhumbline,ease come outofthecalmspell,windcomesinfrom it willfrequentlydieoutaltogether.Usuallywhenyou 27°N thewindwilleaseoffandbylatitude29°or you aredrivenbelowtherhumbline,ataboutlatitude going asquicklyandcomfortablypossible.Evenif trim thesailsandadjustcoursesothatyouare east, don’tworryaboutstayingontherhumbline,just beam, givingagoodfastreach.Ifthewindisnorthof and aimfortheNorthStar.Thewindshouldbeon is usuallyawonderfulsail.LeavetheEasternCaribbean outfitted forseverelycold,wetweather. freezing. Everysinglememberofthecrewmustbefully windward butthetemperaturedrops—sometimesto wester blowsthrough,notonlyareyoubeatingto approaching northwesterlywinds.Butwhenanorth- lee shores. Cape Hatterasandthecoastnorthofitbecomedead progress canbemade.Oncethewindgoesnortheast, Stream. Theresultingseaconditionsaresuchthatno 20, 30oreven40knotsofwindagainstthethree-knot in, thewindswitchesnorthandthennortheast,giving the coastnearCapeHatteras.Ifanorthwestercomes Imagine aboatridingtheGulfStreamnorthwardup (i.e. beintheICW),or200milestowestofyou. Hatteras istoeitherhaveit30milestheeastofyou Many peoplefeelthattheonlywaytopassCape known asagraveyardforshipsover500years. the latitudeofNorfolk,turnwest. the mouthofChesapeakeBay.Whenyouapproach a point100mileseastofNorfolk,Virginia.Norfolkisat feet), sailarhumblinefromtheEasternCaribbeanto of Norfolk,andyourkeelmustdrawlessthannine able topassunderthe65-foothighbridgejustsouth this route. or haveconsiderablerangeunderpower,shoulduse well andhavecrewswillingtodoalotofsailchanges, an areaofcalmorvariablewind.Onlyboatsthatsail above butyouwillrapidlysailoutoftheTradesinto This isconsiderablyshorterthantheroutedescribed course northwestabout1,200milestoCharleston. the StreamrightuptoMoreheadCity/Beaufort. north viatheICW.Ifthereisnonortherpredicted,ride duck intoCharlestonandeitherwaititoutorcontinue league boots.Ifanorthwestfrontispredictedyoucan with theStreamunderneathyouwillbewearingseven carry theTradesallwayuptoGulfStream,then the Streamandheadnorthwards.Withluckyouwill Grand Bahama,runovertotheGulfStream,pickup going throughtheProvidenceChannel,passnorthof and SilverBanks,viatheBahamas.Butinsteadof Lauderdale/Miami area,passingnorthoftheMuchoir west, usingthesamerouteasonetakestoFort leaving fromSt.Thomasandheadingroughlynorth- head northtotheMiami/FortLauderdalearea. marked andhasdeeperwaterclosetoshore).Then Bahama ChannelfavoringtheCubanside(itisbetter Puerto RicoandHispanola,thensailthroughtheOld head westfromSt.Thomas,skirtthenorthcoastsof north-running current. prevailing southwesterliesandatwotothree-knot entrance andhavetobeatwindwardagainstthe the Caribbean,todiscoveryouarenorthofyour — Next Month:LeavingtheCaribbean, When leavingBermudatoheadfortheStates,wait Boats headingfortheStatesviaBermudashouldbe When youarriveinBermuda,enteringSt.Georgeat Heading northviaBermuda,thefirstpartoftrip The BermudaRoute Most yachtswillbeabletoobtainwarningsof Cape Hatteras,justbelowtheChesapeake,hasbeen If youcan’tnegotiatetheICW(yourmastmustbe To theChesapeake Alternately, leaveSt.Thomasandtakearhumbline The bestroutingissubjecttomuchdebate.Ifavor To theCarolinas A fasterroutewithfewernavigationaldangersisto It canbemostdiscouraging,afteryourlongtripfrom Continued frompreviouspage Iolaire hitasoutheast

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Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! Noelina & Lennox Taylor McIntyre Bros. Ltd. TRUE BLUE, ST. GEORGE’S, GRENADA W.I. YAMAHA on and off Saganor , a fibreglass boat that needed a eter Keily known as “Irish Pete” eter Keily known as “Irish of 85 died peacefully at the age in Torrington House Nursing His love affair with the sea started Irish Pete was best known in the Irish Pete was best known P Dungarvon, County Waterford, in his teens, to the day he died. Home, Barbados. first char- 1970s and ’80s as one of the base in ter skippers at The Moorings’ His shy the British Virgin Islands. endeared character and quiet Irish lilt charterers, him to many of those early best-loved and made him one of the He was captains in the Virgin Islands. traditional not a great storyteller in the sense, and yet when he had a story to tell, it was told with a paucity of words, an Irish idiom and punctuated with a warm giggle that was unforgettable. And his stories were legion, as Irish Pete lived his life to the full from the day he left his father’s bakery in Saganor replacing her with by Deb Andrews , a lovely wooden sloop known to Pete and his friends as “de , a lovely wooden sloop known to Pete and his friends Valerie, It was on the personalities of those unique hardy individuals like Irish Pete’s knowledge of sailing ran bone deep, and yet he would never Pete was a well-known figure in Maya Cove, sailing Pete settled in Maya Cove, now known as Hodge’s Creek, and finally Valerie And I turned to Pete who sat in a corner of the cockpit, watching them silently with his usual Old Milwaukee clasped in his huge seaman’s hand. “Pete,” said I, thinking to draw him in and make a definitive deci- his mooring in what became a very crowded anchorage. Only two years ago, he and Wilf Wild, both in their 80s, were still spending each hurricane season in the mangroves along the south coast of Puerto Rico, drinking El Presidente and dining on Puerto Rican barbecued chicken in the company of old cruising friends. Pete, Fritz Seyforth, Ross Norgrove, Wilf Wild and Dan Bowen that the success of the modern BVI chartering industry was founded. These men are legend and Pete is one of the last. boast to those less knowledgeable or experienced than himself. I once did the Round Tortola Race with him and at one point there was an altercation between the six would-be skippers we had on board that day. lot less maintenance. This meant that when he was not working he could relax and enjoy his idyllic mooring spot in Maya Cove. He loved the BVI and it was his home for nearly 40 years. the Moorings. sold a Pioneer a Pioneer that he made his first big singlehanded crossing, from England to Antigua. that he made his first big singlehanded crossing, from The Passing of of Passing The Valerie from Charter Skipper Charter Valerie Irish Pete’s ashes will be scattered at sea close to his beloved British Virgin Islands. After a few years working and chartering in Antigua Pete moved to the BVI and started his long career for And soon after, they set sail for Antigua, Pete carrying only a large barrel of beer lashed to his keel- Unfortunately it took him three years to actually leave England as he couldn’t get his new-fangled self- Unfortunately it took him three years to actually leave In the late ’60s he upgraded to His fascination with boats and the sea continued to grow and he always had a yacht moored up the His fascination with boats and the sea continued to This time he signed on for bigger adventures. As a merchant navy seaman he visited Shanghai and Port This time he signed on for bigger adventures. As a merchant Once back in Ireland Pete made his way to a “bonesetter” in County Waterford, a member of an Irish Once back in Ireland Pete made his way to a “bonesetter” But he forgot that the tide was out! sticky mud and declared that his back was broken. It was some time before they dug him out of the deep Those early trips between England and Ireland came to an abrupt halt one night in Liverpool docks. After Those early trips between England and Ireland came to sion. “What do you think?” He raised his beer can in a familiar motion of dismissal, “Oh my,” he said with that blue eyed mustachioed smile of his, “Oh my!” That was all. Needless to say, we didn’t win that year. stepped mast for sustenance. When Dan Bowen’s mother who came to see them off asked to see his food lockers, Pete’s now-famous response was to point at the sturdily tied barrel and say “Dere’s enuff vitamins in dat to see me to Antigua!” steering to work. It was another old BVI charter skipper, Dan Bowen, who left three years earlier expectingsteering to work. It was another old BVI charter skipper, Nelson’s Dockyard in Antigua buys the rum” arrange- Pete to follow right behind him (it was a “last one into around Antigua and then sailed back to thement) who sorted him out. Dan did two years of skippering got to. “Dis new self-steering doesn’t work, Dan, doSolent one summer to find out where on earth Pete had from Pete, that he had the lines on back to front.it?” quoth Irish Pete. Dan showed him, with some resistance was Pete’s and Pete’s alone: “Oh my, oh my, oh my!”Pete let loose with his strongest exclamation, one that Valerie”! It was on Hamble River on the south coast of England. She was always there for him when he stepped off a merchant- Hamble River on the south coast of England. She was at sea. man in Southampton after a three- or six-month stint Said, Adelaide and Hong Kong — you name the port, he knew the best pubs. Pete was never a ladies’ man, Said, Adelaide and Hong Kong — you name the port, eyes and his courteous Irish charm over the years. although he had romanced a few with his bright blue But no lady ever supplanted the love of his life, the sea. fraternity who have set bones since the Battle of Clontarf and before, passing on the secret knowledge cen- fraternity who have set bones since the Battle of Clontarf was as upstanding as it had ever been and he left tury after century. And before long Pete’s six-foot frame Ireland once more. In Liverpool they told him he would never walk again. But Pete could be stubborn and difficult for all his In Liverpool they told him he would never walk again. a ferry to Ireland. shy demeanour, and he insisted that they put him on the last pub closed, Pete appeared at the end of the pier, only to remember that his ship was anchored the last pub closed, Pete appeared at the end of the he dove off the pier, quite prepared to swim out some distance out from the dock. Shrugging off his jacket to his bunk. before even he could remember, and as a teenager he saved up and bought his first boat, a Bantry Bay. He before even he could remember, and as a teenager he Liverpool and Dun Laoghaire. Baking bread was secured a job aboard a coal freighter that plied between not in his genes, the sea was. Esteemed by friends and family, Irish Pete was never a ladies’ man — his first love was the sea England to Antigua Pete sailed APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 24) VALUATION 23) VAN 20) VELOCITY 19) VANGUARD 15) VERIFY 13) VARIABLES 12) VAIL 9) VANE 8) VESSEL 7) VEGA 3) VALVES 2) VIA ACROSS Crossword Solution don’t bewishy-washy—say“aye-aye!” to itandclearupanyboatprojectsleftundone. of allthisshouldseeafavorablebreeze. and yoursenseofhumor.Aftermid-month,thelovepart much doneaspossiblebeforemid-month. and yourcreativitywillbeanchoredalongside,sogetas prospects offer. Concentrate onwhateversmallpositivesyourbusiness your lovelifewillbeonaslogtowindwardafterthe15th. attack thoseboatprojectsyou’vebeenputtingoff. humor willsailyouthrough.You’llhavelotsofenergy,so ing plans. time tojustrelaxandspendonboardmakingcruis- friends andnotworryaboutboatprojectsnow. to backyoursails.Itwouldbebestjustspendtimewith continue tohavestrong,steadywinds. seas inyourlovelife,businessprospectsshould projects underwaytomakethemostoftheseaspects. make thebestofyourtime. your lovelife.Concentrateoncreativepursuitsto tained untilthethirdweek. romance isagooddistractionandshouldkeepyouenter- made goodtowindwardseemsagonizinglyslow.However, There willbenewbusinessopportunitiescoming,so Your driveandsenseofhumorareingoodaspect,sohop You’re stillinthedoldrumswithbusiness,creativity,love Your lovelifewillkeepyoubusyforthefirsttwoweeks While businessorfinanceshouldshowsomepromise, Your lovelifewillmeetroughseasbutyoursenseof Now thatskieshaveclearedinyourlovelife,it’sagood For everytackyoumake,itwillseemthewindsshift Even withlightairsinyoursenseofhumorandbumpy You’ll feelfullofenergyandgoodhumor.Getsomeboat After thesecondweekyoumayhaveroughweatherin Your humorandbusinessshipsarestillinirons.Speed APRIL 2008 SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) 16) VALKYRIE 14) VENDUE 13) VICTOR 12) VANG 11) VERY 10) VAT 9) VALUES 6) VEERING 5) VARIATION 4) VANES 2) VEER 1) VIE DOWN LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul) 23) VANN 22) VEIN 21) VALUE 20) VANGEE 19) VENTRAL 18) VOYAGES 17) VACUUMS

parlumps marooned The Pitons,St.Lucia Bill Robinson’sFavoritePhotograph: buttrue,andofnocentury. andspeaksofsometotality andruggedness,allgossamer. until thephotoisnolongerseeming andsteel,languidnow,amereglimmer As thePolefieldsdrawcompass,shedrawsyou of wakespastandtocome;hergracefulfamouslines Aphotographthat’shardtoget, this one’sof inthedistancebutclear,silhouette awidebaycool,azure,unpeopled; or withhersailslazy,unfurledondeck,spent. thenthetracklessearthlikegold and thereatanchortheyacht—verysmall melts toacurveofpalmandsandthatborders The focusisondream:intheforeground,fronds; Keep MeClean but thelivesofeveryone. It willnotonlyaffectfishes, in ourregion. Water pollutionhasbecomecommon seas, riversandlakes. if youcontinuetopollute be atstake Remember, marinelifecould no otherkind. One sea;truebeautylike You candivefortreasure. I willglowandshine. If youkeepmeclean the onesyousee. and colourfulfishes— I holdmanywonders I amthedeepbluesea. Eleuthera — KeithonGrant

, blue-hulled [email protected] surelyalandsmancanunderstand. inthesoftroughpalmofNature’s hand, havefeltthetimeinmybonesrespond of apersonalenlargening—view seeingthebigketch,mywingand bond, to herrareimageoffriendshipandadventure far below,nearlyicebound,elusivestill; ofthesoul,tothis I havestoodinGreenlandandfeltthesameway andwhatperspectivecomeswith distance thesamesenseofwhatitistodiscover on yourvoyagingtothisfarplaceandnear thecoastunknownbefore not theworldofislands,butanislandworld: Today, theviewexcitesinwindwardeye Captain Cookclimbedhillslikethistochart bob williamson

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APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 ST.CROIX ST.JOHN ST.KITTS TOBAGO TRINIDAD TURKS U.S. VINCENT VIRGIN ISLANDS Crossword Solution on page 38 ‘Nautical Alphabet: V1’ Alphabet: ‘Nautical ACROSS 2) ___ Lactea: the Milky Way 3) Pressure control devices 7) Bright star in Lira of ship 8) General name for any sort 9) Wind indicator 12) To lower topsails in salute 13) Unsteady winds 15) Authenticate 19) Forefront 20) Rate of movement 23) Short for 19 Across 24) Estimation of worth DOWN 1) Compete 2) Pay out chain or line 4) Plural of 9 Across 5) Magnetic anomaly affecting compass 6) With wind, the opposite of backing 9) Esteems 10) Large tub 11) Colored signal flare 12) Device to control a gaff or boom 13) “V” in radio speak 14) Marine auctioneer: ____ master 16) 1894 America’s Cup contender 17) Empty spaces 18) Sea trips 19) Pertaining to the belly 20) Contrivance for working a bilge pump by means of a barrel and crank 21) Worth 22) Blood vessel 23) David ____, author of true sea adventures HAITI ISLAND JAMAICA MARTIN MARTINIQUE NEVIS PUERTO RICO SAINT SEA Tito Figueroa S/V Alleluia! 12 issues US$29.95, 24 issues US$53.95 Join our growing list of on-line subscribers! Same price, same content — faster delivery! www.caribbeancompass.com “Boating interests served in a neighborly manner!” AMERICAN ARUBA BARBUDA BRITISH CAICOS CARIBBEAN COMPASS CUBA GRENADA GUADELOUPE Caribbean Compass 2008

© Word Puzzle solution on page 55 Word Puzzle by Pauline Dolinski LRNAYONHOJTSOOC LOG I XARUBEPOVUE URNDAO IPUGRENADAAROC R PRV SA I NTBRCOUNT PRV EISLANDOCOTREUP A I I ABUG RVANCPS I ABSTK I TTSASTUBM AN I CETBRURA I REH ABRITISHRMMODET UCSOMAD I SWI RHHO DBLOMART I N I QUEA UE I MEBOSACSL I PA OADGUN I X I ORCTSA GANSHAN I D I SKRAJ OV I NCENTAAOCRON APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE 2008 © and hefeltsurewouldneversurpassit. Mr. Needlefishstoodbackandgruntedwithpleasure;yes,thiswashisfinesthour rectly withjustalittlestitchaddedhereandthere.WhenMerrywasdressedatlast, Needlefish wasonhandtomakesurethathismostmagnificentcreationfittedcor- sweepers actedashermirrors,AngelfishandDamselsfussedaboutMr. getting readyinhercoralcottageandshehadmanywillinghelpers.Theglassy wedding veilmakingitglitterwitheverymovement. soms ofsoftcoral.Moonbeamshadbeencapturedandthesewerewovenintothe and itwaspinnedtoherlongredhairthatcurledallaboutface,withtheblos- netted seadrifthadbeenwovenintoashortbridalveilthatfelltoMerry’sshoulders drops, silversequinsandrainbowbubblesassmallgrainsofsearice.Purewhite and asweetheartnecklinethewholethingwasembroideredwithpearltear- foam. ThebodicewasfittedtightlytoMerry’sslenderfigure.Ithadlittlepuffsleeves Needlefish wasnowmakingMerryawhitegown,withswirlingskirtfineassea stitches ofgoldthreadthatitwasimpossibletoseewherethetearhadbeen.Mr. year’s ballandMr.Needlefishhadsewnthejaggedrenttogetherwithsuchfine her. Merryhadcaughthergorgeousgoldenballgownonacoralsnaggoingtolast tiful weddingdressevercreated,soofcoursesheaskedMr.Needlefishtomakeitfor tions hadbeengoingonforweeks.First,MermaidMerrytohavethemostbeau- Merry wouldhavetheirweddingandballtogether. night oftheball—haddecidedtomakeitadoublecelebration.GemandMermaid Mermaid Merryallyear—althoughshehadmadeuphermindtomarryGemthe have anevengranderballthisyearandsoGem,theirsonwhohadbeencourting the pearlymoondeeps,otheronsun-spangledreef.Theyhadpromisedto they oftenspenttimetogetherbuteachfelthappiestlivingwheredid—onein the reef.Thisdidn’tmeanthattheyhadceasedtoloveeachother,notabitofit!No, Mother Mermaid,whohadpinedforhersunnycoralhomeoptedtoreturn Marcus, likeallofhiskind,livedinthedeepsseawherewascalm,while one onthereefhadeverbeento.IfyouweretherewouldknowthatMerman Mermaid, hadcelebratedtheirweddinganniversarywiththegrandestballthatany- Merry andGem of Mermaid The Wedding Merry’s bouquet was a beautiful combination of white leafy Scroll Blades, the edges Merry’s bouquetwasabeautifulcombinationofwhiteleafyScrollBlades,theedges So, hereitwasatlast,themorningofwedding.Merryhadspentalongtime Mother MermaidandMermanMarcusthoughtthisasplendidideaprepara- A wholeyearhadpassedsinceMermanMarcusandhislovelywife,Mother tions insomeareas.Forexample,the Caribbean,Earthwatch’sSavingthe awareness ofthenestingpatterns leatherback hasledtoincreasedpopula- withstand hotandcoldtemperaturesat sea. back bonesgivestheleatherbackitsname. Theyarefoundinalloceansandcan kilos). Theydon’thaveashelllikeother turtlesdo,butthetoughskinover metres) ormoreinlengthandweigh, on average,around1,300pounds(600 the longdistancerecordwouldhavebeen ifthetechnologyhadn’tfailed! turtle’s journeystoppedtransmitting.Justimaginehowmuchmoreimpressive stop swimming,butthebatteryonitstaggingdeviceranout!Sodataabout for thelongestrecordedmigrationthroughocean.Afterthat,turtledidn’t of 12,774miles(20,588kilometres)wasmeasuredin647days!Thisisarecord Pacific OceantothewestcoastofUSAandalmostbackHawaii.Adistance erback turtlefromwhereitwasfirsttaggedonabeachinIndonesiaacrossthe This month,let’slookatoneoftheirfindings. are workingtowardsabetterunderstandingoftheoceansandseasworld. DOLLY’S DEEPSECRETS Leatherback turtlesareconsideredto be criticallyendangered.Increased Leatherbacks arethelargestturtlesin the world.Theymeasuresixfeet(two News itemsfromearlyFebruary2008reportedtheamazingjourneyofaleath- For severalmonths,wehavebeenlookingatthevariousorganizationswhich

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i s by LeeKessell

n CRUISING KIDS’CORNER

e a . also recognizetheglobaleffortneededtokeepthemalive. scientists arerecognizinghowmanycountriesvisitedbyleatherbacks,they fish. Theplasticclogsuptheirdigestivesystemssotheystarve. nets. Othersswallowplasticbagsbecausetheylookliketheirusualfood,jelly- ards oftheopensea.Thousandsdrownwhentheybecomeentangledinfishing But thebiggestdangerstosurvivalofthesewonderfulcreaturesarehaz- baby leatherbackscanhatch.Theadultturtlesarealsohuntedfortheirmeat. 80 eggs.Ifthenestsarefoundbypredators,theneggswillbeeatenandno They usetheirmassiveflipperstodigabigholeinthesandwheretheylayabout What iskillingthem? mated atabout5,000,downfromanestimated91,000twenty-oddyearsago. vive. However,inthewesternPacificOcean,numberofleatherbacksisesti- number ofnestingleatherbacksthereandinthehatchlingsthatsur- Leatherback TurtleprojectinSt.Croix,USVI,hasseenabigincreasethe necklace ofdeepredrubiesandpinkdiamonds. and emeralds.Forhisownwifehehadchosenasheranniversarygiftafabulous the goldencoronetandpresenthisnewdaughter-in-lawwithlongropesofpearls Merman Marcushadlookedforwardtothisdaywhenhewouldcrownhissonwith from hisfatherwhohadfoundatreasurechestdeepintheseamanyyearsago. framed hishandsomefacewereheldincheckwithacoronetofgold.Thiswasgift with goldensunsembroideredonhislongtunicandcurlyblacklocksthat Gem ofcoursehadspentagesonhiscostumetoo!HechosentowearRoyalBlue bride totheweddingchapelhighontopofcoralreef. quoise scalesandWrassedeckedoutintheirbestrainbowfinery—escortedthe black, Chromisaglowinsapphireblue,Hamletsroyalpurple,Parrotfishtur- smile outshoneallofthesun,moonandstarspanglesflashingabouther. upon thereef.EveryonewasspellboundwhenMerrypickedupherbouquetand before ontothebouquetitseemedtodanceinfilteredlightofsunshiningdown pearl. Whenasilverflyingfishblewthetinymoonbeamshehadcapturednight small whiteandgreenMermaid’sWineGlasses,eachoneholdingaglisteningbluesea touched withsoftgreen.Thedelicatescrollswerecurledaroundtheruffleddiscsof couple enjoytheirhoneymoon. home ofMermaidMerryandMermanGem.Inthemeantime,we’lllethappy deep water.Butyou’lljusthavetowaittillnexttimehearallabouttheseamount months beforewhenGemhadchanceduponabeautifulseamountrisingfromthe could behappywiththeotherforeverafter?Theyhadarrivedatperfectsolution to herpalaceinthereefandMerrytookGemhomewithher. and theoldfolkledbyyoungsters.MermanMarcuswentwithMotherMermaid sure thatthedancingandmerry-makingwentonfarintonight. came outoverthereef,sheddingsilverstarlightdownuponparty.Youcanbe stuffed themselvesasfullpossible,buttheyoungcouplesdanceduntilstars guests clappedloudandlongthenthefeastbeganinearnest. our ofMermanMarcus,MotherMermaid,GemandMerry.Toastsweremade,the were heapedhighbutbeforetheguestsfellto,everychalicewasraisedinhon- way tothetablesladenwithnearlyeverysortofseafoodyoucouldimagine.Plates newlyweds untilMermanMarcusdemandedthathebegivenaturn. was enoughforthem.KisseswereexchangedallroundandMotherMermaidhuggedthe each other.Whatanold-fashionednotion!No,GemandMerrybelievedinlovethat sea songallduringtheexchangeofvows.GemandMerrysaidnothingabout“obeying” favourites wedatlast!Youcanimaginethesighsofhappinessthatblendedintoasoft with Gem,whileeveryfishandcreaturefromnearfarhoveredaroundtoseetheir Tagging theleatherbackswillgiveinformationvitaltotheirsurvival.Nowthat Like otherturtles,leatherbacksnestonabeach.Onlythefemalescomeashore. ed obgntewdigcrmn ieodCria ihi lm e waited red flame in Fish Cardinal old wise a ceremony wedding the begin to Ready Bridegroom Gem,alldazzlingsmileshimselfwaswaitingforMerryatthealtar. Scores ofbrightlycolouredreeffish—includingButterflyFishclothedingoldand THE END Now, thebigquestionis,wherewereMerryandGemgoingtolivesothateach Before thenewdaybegan,everyonewenthome,littlechildrencarriedbyfathers Just likeatthelastball,someofolderfolkdriftedofftosleepaftertheyhad But nowitwastimeforthefeastandballtobeginproudparentsled Ready tobegintheweddingceremony,awiseoldCardinalFishinflameredwaited in royal purple,Parrotfish inturquoisescalesand Wrasse decked outintheirbestrainbow finery… Chromis aglowinsapphireblue,Hamlets Butterfly Fishclothedingoldandblack,

APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41

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tries to take the to take the tries o t le.com

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O t THE TWELVE BOOKS OF THE TWELVE 0 O a g 0 e a LL b 0 , t The Hoard of the Incas, a legendary treas- Incas, a legendary of the Hoard The tribes the Incan was gathered from ure, Conqu when the place in a secreted was It America. South precise instruc- to find without impossible With priest. high an ancient from tions fiery a of promise those instructions is a outsider who death to any treasure. 9 r 1 a

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UNIQUE ALUMINUM BIMINI , Andy Mitchell, Bequia Colors: White with Navy Blue , Samuel Forde, Mayreau , Allick Daniel, Bequia to real-time location of vessel. or: [email protected] , Arnold Hazell, Bequia Contact Elise (1) 305 600-2401 , Ray Leslie, Bequia Tornado , Ryan Marks, Bequia , Ryan Marks, , Wayne Goodling, Bequia Type: Fountaine-Pajot Athena 38’ $2000 Reward if information leads , Vernon Laidlow, Canouan Registration Papers are fraudulent * , Stanley Harry, Bequia , Stanley Harry, , Kingsley Stowe/Ekron Bunyan, Bequia , Hudson Ollivierre, Canouan

Previous Home Port: Vancouver B.C. , Elmore Snagg, Canouan , Damien Bess (Bequia), Mayreau , Delacey Leslie, Bequia , Lachie King, Bequia (18 feet) (18 feet) (27 feet) WITH ARCH SEAT ABOVE BOOM LEVEL , Michael Marks, Bequia , Michael Marks, (16 feet) (28 feet) (14 feet) (12 feet) My Love Bad Feelings D Shark Liberty Knowledge Rat Tornado Shanna-lou Divine Marion Nerissa J More Worries Limbo Dance Bluff Confusion Cloudy Bay STOLEN STOLEN Double-Ender Division Winners Division Double-Ender Catamaran sailing in the Caribbean 1) 2) 3) Class 4 1) 1) 2) Class 5A 1) 2) 3) Class 6 2) 2) Class 5B 1) 1) Class 7 1) 2) 3) Continued from page 13 Continued from Class 2 Class 1 George Corea accepts trophy from Parliamentary Representative Godwin Friday George Corea accepts trophy from Parliamentary Representative for Class 5A winner, — APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 Call RonCooper(727)367-5004•www.coopermarine.com Fair tides! nadir tosoonafteritsrising,thetiderunswestward.Timesgivenarelocal. moon’s settingtojustafteritsnadir,thetiderunseastward;andfrom moon reachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward.Fromjustafterthe to theeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutanhour passage (orzenith)ofthemoonforthisandnextmonth,willhelpyoucalculatetides. Street’s GuidesandcompilerofImray-Iolairecharts,whichshowsthetimemeridian passage fasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDonStreet,authorof 20 0000 (full) 19 2333 18 2251 17 2210 16 2128 15 2045 14 2000 13 1910 12 1816 11 1717 10 1615 9 1511 8 1408 7 1309 6 1214 5 1122 4 1034 3 0946 (new) 2 0859 1 0811 DATE TIME April 2008 For more information, see “Tides and Currents” on the back of all Imray Iolaire charts. For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolairecharts. Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestartsrunning Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewillmakeyour • 63x24PowerCatUSCGStabilitytestfor149PAX • FastdeliveryTwinDiesel-BasePrice$299,000 MERIDIAN PASSAGE

AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY All newOffshore53’catamaranTwindiesel, 49 passengers,Baseprice$199,000 OF THEMOON • Availableassingleordoubledeck APRIL&MAY2008 CATAMARANS 9 1607 8 1504 7 1358 6 1252 5 1149 4 1052 3 0958 (new) 2 0909 1 0822 DATE TIME May 2008 30 0736 29 0650 28 0602 27 0514 26 0423 25 0332 24 0241 23 0157 22 0103 21 0017 NEW SEATING FOR90PASSENGERS NEW 63’SAILCAT 31 0836 30 0747 29 0700 28 0615 27 0531 26 0445 25 0358 24 0309 23 0219 22 0128 21 0037 20 0000 (full) 19 2347 18 2300 17 2215 16 2132 15 2051 14 2010 13 1928 12 1844 11 1756 10 1704 forget themanual;repairtimeishowlongittakestodojob.” asterisk atthebottomofpagewhereitstates:“Ifmotorisusedinsaltwater, tells howmuchtimeitshouldtaketodoaparticularjobonanoutboard,thereis ment inwhichtheoutboardsoperate.Whenyoureadflat-ratemanual, in themandtheywillrun.Theydon’ttakeintoconsiderationthesaltwaterenviron- that mostpeoplethinktheiroutboardsarejustlikecars:putgasandoil rebuilt justabouteverytypeofoutboardfromone-cylinderstoV8smotors.I’vefound two-stroke motors. horses. Withalittlecaretheywillgiveyougooddependableservice,especiallythe ming. Theyarealsousedandabuseduntiltheyfail.Outboardsreallywork- back andforthtothedock,otherboatsforrecreationwhendivingswim- boat intheCaribbean.Whentheyareonourdinghiesprovideuswithtransport with Outboard Repair Avoiding Despair tom drain.Spinthepropwhiledoingthistogetoutanyair. (about 6to8ouncesintwo-cylinder10-or15-horsepowermotors)throughthe bot- old oildrainout,beingverycarefulnottodropthescrews. drips out.Thenputacontainerunderthelowerunitandopentopscrew.Let six months,oratleastonceayear,openthelowerdrainscrewandseeifanywater this maintenancemode,itwouldbeagoodtimetochangethelowerunitoil.Every vent themotorfromfreezinginoneposition.Now,sinceyouarereallygettinginto the carburetor.Thengiveallofgreasefittingsaboutfivepumpstopre- lubricants onceamonth.Atthesametimegreaseallcablesandlinkagesaround we allknowthatthisisnevergoingtohappenintherealworldofcruising. outboard. Well,ifyouwantYamahatohonoritswarrantymustdojustthat.But much freshwaterthatwearegoingtowasteitflushingthecoolingsystemofan with freshwatertokeepthecoolingsystemclean.Yeah,right!Likeweallhaveso in twinoutboards Double trouble?Theauthorseemstobechucklingatanewconcept As aformermobilemarinemechanic,Ispecializedinoutboardmotors.have Outboard motorsareamongthemostimportantpiecesofequipmentonacruising When theoilstopsdraining,replacesmallamountoflowerunitcontains We can,however,spraydownthepowerheadwithWD40,CRC,oranylocal Preventive maintenancegoesalongway.Weshouldflushoutourmotorseveryday by RichardD.Fitser

—Continued onnextpage APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43

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Find us right in the town of Hillsborough! VHF Ch 16 & 68 VHF Ch (range limited by the hills) Bar open daily until… Sunday 6pm - 2am Bar open daily until… Sunday West Indies. WALLILABOU BAY HOTEL WALLILABOU Kitchen open Monday to Saturday 10am - 10pm Kitchen open Monday to Saturday ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU Call sign: “Golf Sierra” VHF channel 16 BEQUIA, Port Elizabeth, Admiralty Bay at the cheapest prices in the Grenadines. Chicken Wings, Conch Fritters, etc. • Dinner Menu Reynold Belmar. Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 supplies of For further information call Glenn Clement or Bequia - Restaurant - Great Cocktails & Fun - Great Cocktails & FunBequia - Restaurant Welcomes you to Petite Martinique E-mail: [email protected] B & C FUELS A stepping stone as you ENTERPRISE Come alongside our splendid jetty and replenish your Menu: Burgers, Flying Fish, Philly Steak Sandwiches,Fajitas, Salads,Menu: Burgers, Flying Fish, Tel: (784) 457 3443 cruise through St. Vincent, Grenada and the Grenadines. Full Cable TV • Air Conditioning • Sportsbar • Pool Table Full Cable TV • Air Conditioning • Sportsbar Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) 457-9917 Tel: (784) 458-7270 Fax: (784) Your Expert Guide to Carriacou’s Best Diving Your Expert Guide to Carriacou’s P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, P.O. Box 851, St. Vincent &

INSTRUCTOR TRAINING

We are on-line: www.caribbeancompass.com Outboard Fix The Two-Cent The Two-Cent . They cruised down the island chain and west to Curaçao, spending much Continued from previous page Continued from I only wish that I could claim that it was my idea. If your Yamaha is acting tired Now it was time to put the bowl back on the carburetor and put the carburetor Here is how I made my “magic” wire. First I found a scrap piece of #12 marine wire. I would like to say that I came up with the solution, but I didn’t. A friend described I would like to say that I came up with the solution, but I tried to buy a rebuild kit for my carburetor in Venezuela, no luck. I tried to have I tried to buy a rebuild kit for my carburetor in Venezuela, Well, as my Dad once told me, if you have good compression and good spark, the Well, as my Dad once told me, if you have good compression I tried new spark plugs, no difference. I checked the compression. It was the same I tried new spark plugs, no difference. I checked the compression. My 15-horsepower Yamaha was running like a 5-horse. It would not get up on a My 15-horsepower Yamaha was running like a 5-horse. Has your Yamaha lost its get-up and go? Well mine sure did and it just about drove Has your Yamaha lost its get-up and go? Well mine sure A little preventive maintenance will go a long way toward getting good service from A little preventive maintenance will go a long way toward Perhaps one of the most important pieces of advice that I can give you is: use the pieces of advice that I can give you is: use the Perhaps one of the most important If the outboard will not be used for an extended period (more than one month), run for an extended period (more than one month), run If the outboard will not be used Water pump impellers are another item most people don’t think about until the another item most people don’t think about until the Water pump impellers are Now that you have put in the new plugs, look at the connector boots that you are goingNow that you have put in the Now get out your spark plug wrench and remove the plugs. (You do have a spark remove the plugs. (You do spark plug wrench and Now get out your When the new oil leaks out of the top hole, the unit is full and you can replace the the unit is full and you oil leaks out of the top hole, When the new and nothing else seems to help, give it a try. Richard D. Fitser was a former teacher, general contractor, and marine mechanic. He and his wife Diane left Fort Lauderdale, Florida, in June 2003, on their 38-foot ketch, Jabulani of the past three years on the north coast of Venezuela and its islands. Richard enjoyed helping people and healed many ailing outboards. Richard and Diane were anchored in Porlamar, Margarita, Venezuela, when he died of a heart attack on January 28th. He was buried on Margarita. back on the motor. When I started up the motor it idled as it always did, but when I opened it up it jumped up on a plane and would plane out at one-third throttle as it did when it was new. I stripped off about three inches of insulation and untwisted the wire. Then I snipped off three strands and twisted the ends together for a distance of about one inch. I took my needle-nose pliers and made a small loop in the twisted end (about 1/8 inch in diameter). I had already removed the carburetor bowl from the carburetor so I could insert the three wires into the jet. When I could see they could go no farther into the jet I removed them and snipped off about an inch. When reinstalled the little loop stuck out about 1/8 inch from the bottom of the jet. the problem he had with his 15-horsepower Yamaha Enduro, and it was the same the problem he had with his 15-horsepower Yamaha as mine. He told me how a mechanic in Panama fixed his. It seems the Yamaha uses a very soft brass in its high-speed jets and the orifice enlarges over time, causing the motor to get too much fuel. This causes it to bog down at high speed. So the cure was to put three small copper wires into the jet, which leaned it out. So I tried it and it worked. I will get a new jet, but the two-cent fix is a great stopgap measure. Lauderdale, Florida, in 2001. some cruising friends who were going back to Texas get me the kit, still no luck. The some cruising friends who were going back to Texas get Some friends who were going Yamaha dealer said, “There is no such model number.” “That model was not a North to Canada checked with the dealer there. He said, Yamaha dealer in Fort American model.” What? I bought it from a licensed problem is fuel. So I took apart the carburetor, cleaned it, put it back together and problem is fuel. So I took apart the carburetor, cleaned at low speed as smooth as reinstalled it. No difference. The motor started and ran driving me nuts. I fix other silk, but would not run at high speed. This was really people’s outboards, but can’t get mine to run. in both cylinders (120 PSI), no problem there. I made a spark tester and checked the in both cylinders (120 PSI), no problem there. I made a spark. No problem there. plane. This didn’t happen overnight; it was a gradual process. It first started taking plane. This didn’t happen overnight; it was a gradual up on a plane. Finally it would longer to plane out, then needing more throttle to stay not get up on a plane at all, just mush along. me over the edge, although some people may say I didn’t really have that far to go. I me over the edge, although some people may say I didn’t problem. spent a good deal of time and effort trying to solve this your outboard for a long time. best outboard oil you can find. It is the cheapest insurance you can get to keep your It is the cheapest insurance you can get to keep your best outboard oil you can find. when adding oil to the gaso- outboard running well. More is always better than less will not hurt a thing, although line. A little extra oil just produces a little smoke and and then. you might find yourself having to clean the plugs now out all the gasoline from the carburetor. If this is not done, the gas will turn into carburetor. If this is not done, the gas will turn out all the gasoline from the carburetor. varnish and will gum up the motor overheats. It is a good idea to check or even change the impeller once every idea to check or even change the impeller once every motor overheats. It is a good engine is running cool, periodic inspection will prevent two years. Even though the up in place. Just take off the lower unit and grease the lower unit from being frozen by as you reinstall. The motor will show its appreciation all the connectors and bolts time. running smoothly for a long to put back on the plugs. Spray a little WD40 in there and push them on good and tightto put back on the plugs. Spray the put the cover back on the motor and put it back on (make sure they snap on). Then run the motor out of the water without a water hose hookeddinghy and start it up. Never way I know to destroy a water pump impeller. up to it. That is the quickest plug wrench, don’t you?) Take a good look at the plugs. Are they clean? Are the look at the plugs. Are they don’t you?) Take a good plug wrench, to get out the close to specs? You need light brown? Is the gap insulators a nice could be .030”, what the gap should be. It your outboard and check handbook on a three-dollar feeler gauge to measure it. If it has been .040” or .060”. You will need have been checked, do yourself a favor and buy some a couple of years since they the is usually pretty close to being gapped correctly from new plugs. The NGK brand idea to check them before installing. factory, but it is always a good top screw. Next, remove the filler tube and replace the bottom screw. I am sure by replace the bottom screw. remove the filler tube and top screw. Next, procedure. It more hands when doing this saying, I wish I had two now you are to be several old need help there are sure or complicated. If you really is not hard try. you a hand on your first who would be glad to give pro’s out there — APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 welcome! Credit Cards Wir sprechenDeutsch former LePetitJardin New locationat Your #1 Choice forProvisioning Bequia Marina THE FOODSTORE Corea Fine Wine,Cheeses,FreshFruits,Vegetables The YachtClub,BequiaMarina, PortElizabeth,Bequia, Look forthe Water, Diesel,Ice,BottledWater andDockageavailable. Open MondaytoSaturday8:00a.m.4:00p.m. Monday-Saturday: 8amto 12pm &3pmto6pm Tel: (784)488-8479Fax:456-5230 VHF 68,Telephone784-457-3361 in theGrenadines. Big BlueBuilding St. Vincent&TheGrenadines Sunday: 9amto 12pm and ChoiceMeats ’ s Mustique Daily FreshHerbs&Produce

YACHT PROVISIONING [email protected] andaskforStanorMiguel! Imported Cheeses&Pastas and othergourmetfoods Fax (784)457-3134 Tel (784)458-3625 Fine Wines VHF 68 in Fresh Croissantsdaily Special 8-grainbread Bequia scores ofyachtsarrivingfortheBequiaEasterRegatta. Pizzeria, alandmarkontheshoreofAdmiraltyBayandprimespotforviewing Bequia fortheoccasion.ThevenueCompassWriters’Brunch2008wasMac’s and entertainingmonthly”servingboatinginterestsintheCaribbean. Caribbean Compass annual wayofsaying“thanks”tothosewhoprovidethecontentthatmakes always theThursdaybeforeEaster. your talentandeffortshopetosee youatafutureCompassWriters’Brunch, Debra Davis,WilfredDederer,SallyErdle, TomHopmanandElaineOllivierre. writers andphotographerswerejoined byCompassPublishing’s“cockpitcrew” Antigua agent),AnnVanderhoofandNathalie Wardandtheirinvitedguests.These Carriacou agent),DonaldStollmeyer,Amal Thomas,LucyTulloch(whoisalsoour Frank Pearce,DaveRichardson,Jo-Anne Sewlal,JerryStewart(whoisalsoour Berlinghof, SteveManley,MorrisNicholson, RolandO’Brien,MariannPalmborg, were flew fromhandtoasnewcontactsandfriendsweremade. pared byJudySimmonsandherMac’sPizzeriastaff.Boatcardsbusiness Mitchell sharinghislong-termperspectivefromthegovernmentalside. yachtsman andformerSt.Vincent&theGrenadinesPrimeMinisterSirJames ranging fromcruisers’relatingfirst-handexperienceswithclearancepaperwork, to for yachts. the English-speakingEasternCaribbeantohaveasingleCustomsclearanceform yacht tourismindustry.Alsotoboostthatsector,theCMAiscurrentlylobbying in System) suspendedforyachtsintheinterestofprotectingEasternCaribbean’s include theCMA’srolelastyearinhavingAPIS(AdvancePassengerInformation policies anddecisionsatgovernmentallevels.Examplesofsuchaccomplishments regional recreational-boatingtradeassociationscanhelpinformyacht-friendly Among othertopics,hertalkraisedawarenessofhowtheCaribbean’snational and & Tobago.Sharonisaneconomistbytrade,specializinginsectordevelopment. Tobago, andformerGeneralManageroftheYachtServicesAssociationTrinidad Association (CMA),ChairmanoftheYachtingSteeringCommitteeTrinidad & Annual Get-Together Correspondents’ Compass This yearonThursday,March20th,40guestsfromfarandneargatheredin To thosemanycontributorsunabletoattend thisyear,wethankyou,too,forall Present atCompassWritersBrunch2008,inadditiontothosementionedabove, Conversations continuedoveranabundantandscrumptiousbrunchbuffetpre- Sharon’s talkkickedoffalivelyopendiscussionofbureaucracyvis-à-visyachting, Our guestspeakerwasSharonMcIntosh,ManageroftheCaribbeanMarine There Caribbean Compass is suchathingasfreebrunch,atleastinthe whatitsreaderssayis“themostinteresting,useful,informative contributorsRichardAshton,Herman Belmar,Bob

yacht clearanceform is lobbyingforacommon marine tourismsector,theCMA of improvingthesub-region’s McIntosh statedthatintheinterest Left: GuestspeakerSharon intense discussion clearance proceduresgenerated question aboutcumbersomeyacht correspondent DaveRichardson’s Above: Veterancruising Compass world!It’sour APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 , PM - 6 AM aradise. Call 784-488-8407 , Lunch is served 11:00 ine foods in P is nothing general about Basil’sThere Call 784-488-8407 AM Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named one of the Basil’s Bar in Mustique was named

Call 784-457-2713 Imagine, decorating your home with Antiques from Bali and Imagine, decorating your home with Antiques from Bali and Fabrics as bright as the sea and as light as air... perfect for as bright as the sea and as light as air... Fabrics efficiently arranged. Basil’s Bar Basil’s

WE SHIP AROUND THE WORLD! In St Vincent - near the port of Kingstown is an 18th century cob- In St Vincent the island.

www.basilsbar.com [email protected] www.basilsbar.com Visit Basil’s in Mustique or St. Vincent Visit Mustique

Dinner at 7:30 until late. Come to Basil’s for Cocktails anytime and plan to attend theDinner at 7:30 until late. Come up and BBQ. Call 784-488-8350 or VHF 68. night Jump Wednesday BOUTIQUE BASIL’S women, men and children, For day wear. Elegant island evening and playful island joy. silver and gemstone jewel- home. Basil’s Boutique also offers to take plus lots of T-shirts ry. STORE: GENERAL GREAT BASIL’S wines, cheeses from Europe, with fine French Great General Store - stocked sauces and gourmet jams. Imported cigars. F ACROSS FOREVER: ACROSS has Forever India - contemporary pieces and fabulous lighting. Across from Asia. a magnificent collection of furniture and home accessories Shipping is easily and BASIL’S BAR: BASIL’S Air conditioned, and Bar. blestone building where you may find Basil’s Restaurant and the meals, some you will enjoy cocktails most delightful, the staff most welcoming of the best on Visitors to Mustique are invited to: to Mustique Visitors BAR AND RESTAURANT: BASIL’S and today lives up to that tradi- Best Bars in 1987 by Newsweek magazine Ten World’s the new face of Basil’s Bar in Mustique is all that and more renovated tion. Recently lunches and break- Terrific and pastas for dinner. offering the freshest seafood, steaks you can enjoy sunset cocktails and catch up on the web.fasts. Now equipped with WIFI 21 - February January of the Mustique Blues Festival, Basil’s Bar is home and originator 4, 2009. Breakfast service begins at 8:00 are invited to: to St Vincent Visitors by Ross Mavis PIZZA Cover toppings with lots of grated mozzarella cheese. Bake in hot oven until crust is nicely browned and cheese is bubbling. It’s even almost as good on shore. Put dough into a large bowl oiled with the cooking oil. Roll dough around to coat Caribbean Pizza Dough 1/4 Cup lukewarm water 1 teaspoon sugar 1 envelope dry yeast 1/4 Cup milk 1/4 Cup hot water 3/4 teaspoon salt 3 Tablespoons cooking oil 2 1/4 Cups sifted all-purpose flour and stir until dissolved. Measure lukewarm water into a medium bowl, add sugar We’re pleased to share this superb recipe with other cruisers and encourage you We’re pleased to share this superb recipe with other The friendship became instantaneous when our sloop’s small oven turned out The friendship became instantaneous when our sloop’s “In Turks and Caicos we met a Canadian couple from a mining town in Ontario,” “In Turks and Caicos we met a Canadian couple from Good pizza was not new to my wife and me ever since she was given a recipe for Good pizza was not new to my wife and me ever since The thin but crispy crust of good pizza, with a sauce and topping of your own The thin but crispy crust of good pizza, with a sauce The first pizza franchise restaurants were formed and soon flourished. Many inde- The first pizza franchise restaurants were formed and When Pizza Pie arrived on the North American commercial scene some 50 years the North American commercial scene some 50 years When Pizza Pie arrived on It was an unexpected treat for me, and no doubt countless others. When staying for me, and no doubt countless others. When staying It was an unexpected treat lightly with oil and let rise in a warm place until double in size, about 45 minutes. Cut risen dough in two and pat each portion onto a 14-inch pizza pan. Top with your favorite tomato pizza sauce, onions, olives, green peppers and mushrooms. Add any sausage, salami, pepperoni, hamburger or bacon to your liking. We have even had great results using sliced wieners. Shredded lobster or crab also makes an incredible seafood pizza à la Mac’s. Sprinkle yeast onto water and let stand for about 10 minutes. Stir well. Combine Sprinkle yeast onto water and let stand for about 10 and flour, mixing until thick milk and hot water and stir into yeast mixture. Add salt and knead until dough is and sticky. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured board smooth and elastic. to make delicious pizza from this 40-year-old cruising recipe. to make delicious pizza from this 40-year-old cruising many little pizzas. To this day the pizza dough recipe is dutifully kept in Willa’s many little pizzas. To this day the pizza dough recipe authentic thin-crust pizza is cruising cookbook and referred to regularly when in the warmth and humidity wanted. It’s a real snap to make and rises wonderfully of the Caribbean. Willa says. “They were sailing a concrete ketch and we spent a few days anchored Willa says. “They were sailing a concrete ketch and we We had a gas oven, fairly next to them. She was Italian and we all loved good food. dough. Between us we mus- uncommon then, and they had a great recipe for pizza tered up some tasty topping ingredients.” fantastic pizza dough. While sailing in the Caribbean in the early 1970s after cruis- fantastic pizza dough. While sailing in the Caribbean Scampi sloop, a Swedish ing through Europe and crossing the Atlantic in a 29-foot dough recipe. design, my wife Willa encountered this excellent pizza choosing and lots of melted grated Mozzarella cheese, is difficult to beat for an out- choosing and lots of melted grated Mozzarella cheese, toppings available, and the of-hand meal. The ability to add or delete the myriad sauce or simple herb-infused choice of your own specially formulated tomato-based oil allows complete customization. pendents sprang up as well and continue even today in a society where chain owner- pendents sprang up as well and continue even today in ship and branding dominate. ago, few people realized how popular this fast food would become. Its quick accep- ago, few people realized how large food companies like Kraft to develop lackluster tance by all ages soon brought of envelope of baking ingredients for the crust, a can pizza mixes in a box. An small packet of Parmesan cheese enticed many families tomato and herb sauce and food. Some families were satisfied with the less than to try this “new” exotic Italian perfect results, but many were disappointed. on the magical island of Bequia a while back, we enjoyed a lobster pizza from Mac’s a while back, we enjoyed a lobster pizza from Mac’s on the magical island of Bequia Bay. Pizzeria on the shore of Admiralty APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 seasonal specialties and fresh baked goods. seasonal specialtiesandfreshbakedgoods. MAC’S PIZZERIA The FoodFairhasitallandalotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s In addition to our famous pizza we offer In additiontoourfamouspizzaweoffer Situated in Admiralty Bay, Bequia between Open dailyfrom11:00am to 10:00pm. the FrangipaniandPlantationHouse. For Reservations:VHFCh68 or Tel: (784)4583474 Closed onMondays Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: from heat;letsitfortenminutesbefore serving. and chadonbene.Cookforfiveminutes andremove utes. Addtheroastedcuminseeds,garam massala, necessary toprovideagoodsauce. Cook covereduntilbeansaretender.Addwateras and removefromtheheat. pepper, cuminandturmeric,cookforahalfminute minutes. Stirconstantlyoritwillstick.Addthehot they brown.Addgarlicandgingercookforfive strong juice.Setbeansandtamarindjuiceaside. work thepastebetweenyourhandstoproducea paste inhotwaterforanhour.Whenithascooled, mortars andpestles. tamarind heartwoodmakesthebesthoehandles,and strong tamarindwater—letitdryonthem.Hard fleas ortickscanbewashedandthenrinsedwith tree’s barkmakesanexcellenttonic.Petsinfestedwith as poulticesforsprainsandarthritis.Ateafromthe throat. Boiledtamarindleavesandflowerscanbeused on inflammationsandusedasarinseforsore protein andfiber.Freshpulpcanbeapplieddirectly pulp hasonly50caloriesintwoounceswithsome largest producer. “Indian date”(tamarhindi),andIndiaistheworld’s the deliciousfruit.Thewordtamarindtranslatesas originated inAfrica,althoughIndiaalsotriestoclaim used asastabilizerforicecreams. that makesthingsgelbetterthanpectinandwhichis make acoffeesubstitute.Theseedshaveproperty flavor. Addsugartoyourtaste. and evenahotpeppermaybeaddedtoenhancethe flavor) inabottleofwaterovernight.Cloves,ginger, shelled fruitsasyouchoose(morewillmakeastronger but delicioustosavor. and rollingranulatedsugar.Theyareamesstomake the strained-pulp/sugarmixtureintoone-inchballs on acolanderandkeepaddingpowderedsugar.Shape shell, separatethepulpfromseeds,workgoo mon wayofeatingthepulp.Tomakethem,remove (“English”) sauce. variety ofsaucesincludingWorcestershire are boiledwithrice.Thetamarindpulpisusedina only needswell-drainedsoil.Enjoytheshade. resistant treethatcanadapttomostconditions,and of 70-footheightand30-footwidth.It’sahearty,wind- you justlovetamarind! pulp, orevendescribetheflavorassoursweet?But hooked. Canyousaywhylovetheflavorof months. Onceyoutasteit,asuglyitis,willbe tamarind thatcanjuststayripeonthetreefor are fullyripe.Ican’tthinkofanyfruitotherthan The shellsarebrittleandbreakeasilywhenthepods as 12seedsburiedintheedible,stickybrownpaste. tamarind. Thelumpy,six-inchpodscanhaveasmany 1 teaspoonroastedcuminseeds,ground 1 Tablespoonsugar 1/3 Cupseedlessraisins 1/4 Cuptamarindpaste 3/4 Cupwater Tamarind Chutney Stir inthetamarindpasteandsimmerfortenmin- Stir inthetomato,beansand2cupsofwater, In alargeskilletheatoilandsautétheonionsuntil Soak blackbeansinwaterovernight.tamarind salt totaste 2 bundleschadonbene,chopped 1 teaspoongarammassala 2 teaspoonsroastedcuminseeds 1 largetomato,choppedsmall 1/4 teaspoongroundturmeric 1 teaspoongroundcumin 1 hotpepperseededandchoppedfine(optional) 2 Tablespoonsgratedfreshginger 2 Tablespoonsmincedgarlic 2 mediumonions,chopped 1/3 Cupoil 2 Cupshotwater 1/4 Cuptamarindpaste 2 Cupsblackbeans,pre-soaked Tamarind BlackBeans The pulpishighincalciumandVitaminB.Tamarind The tamarindisconsideredtheonlyspicetohave In Thailandtheygrindthedrytamarindseedsto Tamarind waterisanothereasytreat.Putasmany Tamarind balls,acandy,areprobablythemostcom- When green,thepodscanbeusedasaseasoningand Tamarind treesareslowtomaturethegrandeur The WestIndieshaveaveryunusualfruit,the SERVING ATSEABYSHIRLEYHALL for everyfiveyearsofageatthesameintervals. times ayear.Bearingtreesshouldget8-3-9,atcup years oldwithacupof6-6-3fertilizeraboutthree ber ofpodsandamountpulp,fertilizetreestothree mer untiltheyaretender.Sprinklewithchadonbene. and simmerfor20minutes.Addthechanasim- ened tamarindpasteandbringtoaboil.Reduceheat utes. Increasetheheatandadd1/3Cupofsoft- minutes. Addvegetables.Simmercoveredforfivemin- utes andthenaddthecurrypowder.Cookforthree the onion,garlic,gingerandhotpepperforfivemin- Let itsitforanhourandthenworksoft.Setaside. let thechutneystandatroomtemperatureovernight. Blend itwithaspoonoranelectricblender.Coverand while addingthespices,pepperandlemonjuice. hour. Workthetamarindpasteintoacreamyjuice raisins andsugar.Removefromheatsoakforan For thefarmers:Togetbestresultsinbothnum- In alargefryingpanwithcoverheattheoil,cook Boil onecupofthewaterandaddtamarindpaste. 3 Tablespoonschoppedchadonbene 2 cupschana(chickpeas/garbanzobeans) 3 Tablespoonsoil 1 Cupcoconutmilk 1 bunchbodibeans,choppedintoone-inchpieces 1 largecarrot,chunked 1/4 Cupslicedmushrooms 2 cupscauliflowerflorets 1 largesweetpepper,seededandchunked 2 Tablespoonscurrypowder 1 hotpepper,seededandmincedorwhole(optional) 2 teaspoonsfinelychoppedgingerroot 3 clovesofgarlic,minced 1 largeonion,sliced 1/3 Cuptamarindpaste 2 Cupswater Tasty TamarindVeggies—adifferentstir-fry! Bring watertoaboilbeforeaddingtamarindpaste, salt totaste 1 teaspoonlemonjuice 1 hotpepper,seededandminced APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47

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rare + 40 years, 36 with Lloyds, and my claims investigate these , Noonsite and Net and written by Dick Yachting Monthly is regarded by the fraternity of Yachting Monthly , and comments about yacht attacks , and comments , , Yachting Monthly Compass Compass After reading the article in the March 2008 issue of the article in the March 2008 After reading “Yes, it’s very unfortunate. I would not say, however, unfortunate. I would not say, “Yes, it’s very Chateaubelair, we have“Aware of the insecurity at the past year, been step- “The Coast Guard has, over “Unfortunately crime exists everywhere and I’m afraid As someone who has enjoyed these islands without Hopefully these island governments have begun to In the meantime, keep your eyes open and be safe. The article continued by further alleging that “other The article is based on a report written on January While we sympathize with Mr. Jones and his family Yachting Monthly I kindly ask that I wish to respond to an article published in a recent Dear Yachting Monthly in St. Vincent, I forwarded it to a friend who lives on I forwarded it to a friend in St. Vincent, response: get his opinion. Here is his St. Vincent to that when are getting worse, more that these incidents a lot of occurs it tends to attract one bad incident this occur two or three incidents like publicity. Where often the as in this case, it’s very in the same area, out the crime. If you same group of people carrying that come here every consider the thousands of yachts against visitors, the truth year, and the level of crime extremely low compared is that the percentage is still including other Caribbean with most other countries, Antigua, St. Maarten islands (in particular St. Lucia, and St. Thomas). stop there. We would, how- always advised yachts not to and Cumberland whereever, disagree about Wallilabou after 26 years has beenthe worst I’ve ever encountered than aggression or crime. ‘nuisance boat boys’ rather patrols, as have the local ping up its activity and ministries have also taken police, and the Government and done what they these incidents very seriously the perpetrators — usu- humanly could to apprehend that got caught are now ally successfully. The last lot and for the nature of the enjoying 20 years in prison, to 150 years. prisons here, this is more akin that here is no exception. I’m certainly not trying to play down this incident, but to put it more into perspective.” incident (especially Wallilabou), I can only talk from my experiences. We never leave our boat unlocked, especially at night while onboard, just like our home in the States. As for the couple who were attacked on St. Martin, this would appear to be a random crime of opportunity that could happen anywhere in the world and I would say be more prone to happen in our home- towns than on a Caribbean island. Take their advice to be careful and vigilant at all times. realize that the increase of violent incidents will have a drastic effect on their economy and they better try harder to minimize these crimes. John Wilson S/V Double Down Dear Durham, which alleges that “a mini-crime-wave has hit St. Vincent & the Grenadines” with “vicious armed attacks on yachtsmen in the last six weeks”. attacks have taken place in Petit St. Vincent, Union Island, Wallilabou and Young Island” and reports “a story of one yachting couple’s frightening experience at the hands of armed pirates”. 4th by Steve Jones and communicated to a number of websites including News. It gives an account of a violent attack by three armed men against himself and his wife on December 27th, while anchored off Chateaubelair. While Mr. Jones acknowledged Wallilabou as a “safe-ish” anchorage, he proceeds to report on a supposed incident in which a gang of 20-plus armed men raided the bay recently and stole six dinghies and outboards in one night, purportedly well-prepared with wire cutters and other tools to accomplish their objectives. over the tragic misfortune that occurred at Chateaubelair, we unequivocally deny that any such event such as the dinghy raid described above occurred at Wallilabou Bay. On the contrary, while we have more than our fair share of “boat boys”, this bay has had no incidents of violence perpetrated against any visiting yachtsmen and only one dinghy has been lost in the last year and a half. Over the years, we have expended every effort to make Wallilabou a safe and pleasant anchorage. sailors as a distinguished, credible source of yachting information. Statements made in that publication have an indelible quality; once made, indictments will linger, irreversible in the minds of John Public. In our case, this will haunt us with deleterious effect for years to come. These falsehoods about Wallilabou have already created a furor of discussion in the regional media, blog sites and within the general community. Blacklisting initiatives have also already been taken by some charter companies. edition of allegations made in respect to Wallilabou in an effort to get to the truth in this matter and provide the opportunity for our exoneration. Yours faithfully, Stephen Russell Managing Director Wallilabou Bay Resort Limited, St. Vincent —Continued on next page in the old , and neither Mermaid Clean Sweet Wind

, , , Readers’ Forum Readers’ . Only those with air-conditioned galleys was launched on January 31, 1968. She is in the March issue, I will give the facts here. Compass Compass Compass Compass It seems as if I will never get to make any corrections Mermaid I ought to know, after 31 years, huh? Someone sent us a great recipe for oven-free boat I wonder how many people will try the no-knead Could we have a series on recipes that can be done We hope to see you out cruising. We cruised the Bahamas and Caribbean before leav- We are in Cumaná having our boat painted at the Thank you for publishing in the January issue the Thank you for publishing to Douglas Pyle’s book, John Smith Mermaid of Carriacou bread, but we lost his name (sorry!) and are reluctant to publish the recipe without giving him the credit he deserves. If the contributor of that recipe would get in touch, we’ll be happy to share his recipe in an upcom- ing issue. CC Dear would I want to, a lovely piece of work. However, further to the caption that quoted Pyle under the photo of Mermaid a lot beamier than the 12 foot and 3 inches as taken from that famous half model of Mermaid Tavern in Carriacou, well over 13 feet actually and she draws over 7 feet. bread recipe from Chris Doyle in the February issue bread recipe from Chris Doyle in the February issue of on stove tops and that do not need ingredients that are exotic to the Caribbean? Sue Simons S/V Lorensu Dear Sue, Sandra and Paul Johnston Yacht Quarterdeck Dear and shares in cooking-gas companies will want to pre- heat an oven at 450°F for half an hour and then bake at that temperature, I should think. I stop reading every time I see a recipe that says “bake for 30 minutes” (or more). ing for a circumnavigation in 1995. Back then there ing for a circumnavigation in 1995. Back then there were also a lot of dinghy and outboard thefts. We would lock our 15–horsepower outboard to the stern pulpit and haul our dinghy out by a halyard on the side every night, and had a motion detector directed at each. We continued to do this every night everywhere around the world for our 20 years full time cruising on the boat and we have never had a problem. In areas of questionable security like Colombia, the Mosquito Coast, the Pacific side of Panama, the Malacca Straits and the Gulf of Aden, we always waited to travel with a companion boat. The trend toward violence and threats and maiming captains and crews who do not resist is new. We have never locked ourselves in our boat anywhere. We shall purchase another motion detector for the cockpit and hopefully not have a problem. Navimca boatyard. The workers are doing a wonderful Navimca boatyard. The workers are doing a wonderful job and we have no complaints. We are comfortable in the yard and take the bus to the CADA supermarket, the central market or to the boat stores downtown for parts. I had a spot of basal cell carcinoma removed from my nose by a surgeon for a very reasonable price here also. Dear on the exemption of for- letter from Gabriele Drucker clearance in Venezuela. eign vessels for national Unfortunately it came too late for us as we had already done our national check-in from Margarita to Venezuela in January. We had asked in Porlamar and in Puerto La Cruz and no one really seemed to know the rules: some continued to do it and others were ignoring it. Now at least it is definitive. I shall keep that article handy for our movements within Venezuela. APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 to findquietanchoragesfarfrom“TheMadding Crowd”. are notdescribedintheotherguides.Thisenables them ages thatarepopularwithbareboaters. pictures anddescribehotels,bars,restaurantsanchor- describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, Your Caribbean MarineFleaMarket S CHIP-OAE Dutch –EnglishFrenchGermanspoken Close toMarinaBas-du-Fort-PointeàPitre ARE MOREECONOMICAL! EQUIPMENT MARINE SERVICE SPARES (DUTY FREEPRICES) ENGINES KMRN Real sailorscircleinStreet’sGuidetheanchorages that Real sailorsalsobuytheotherguides,thathavepretty Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor experience intheCaribbean,series’fourvolumes TEL: (784)4571806FAX:4561364 Y at bookshopsandchandleries,orfrom www. AMAHA MA BUY STREET’SGUIDES Located CALLIAQUA,St.Vincent iUniverse.com andwww.seabooks.com Charts –Sails-BookExchangeetc… Open 6daysaweekexceptSundays cover theEasternCaribbeanfromPuertoRico Written byanauthorwith50yearsofsailing E-mail: [email protected] E.mail :[email protected] PAIE New &Second-HandChandlery Phone :+590(0)831775 STREET’S GUIDES opposite Howard’sMarine the coastofVenezuelatoABCs. Street’s Guidesareavailable REAL SAILORS P.O. Box17,Kingstown down throughtheislandsand Guadeloupe –F.W.I Contact :Anke R INE DISTRIBUTOR LTD as acompanionhewas was atmyside;therenosuchthingasprivacy. have thetopofhisheadstroked.WhereverIwas,he him. Heseemedtoneedmybodycontact.loved the topofmyhead.Thepillow’snotsamewithout recently hesleptonmypillowwithhisbodytouching side ofthebedwithmyhandrestingonhisback.Most top andtomyuttershockitflewaway,noharmdone! small, stillbody.Iatonceputitoutsideonthebimini until makingthebednextmorningthatIfound a game.Oneputundermybedpillowanditwasn’t caught sixbirdsbutdidn’tkillanyofthem;itwasjust ocelot wasanotherofhisfavoritepets. tle, whichhe’dcarrybyitshead.LaterhisBeanieBaby would carryonconversationswithhisterryclothtur- rolled-up napkin,agameheenjoyed.Attimes where nottogo.Healsolearnedplay“fetch”witha enjoy hissnack.Hewasalwaysafishlover! fish butoncetheywerecutintobite-sizedbitshe’d always hungdownintothewater.He’dplaywithbait dinghy ridesandshowedhimtheropecat-ladderthat He wasnimbleonboardbutasakittenItookhimfor that landedontheboat,evenduringpassagesatnight. only MILTONhas!ButheremainedMilitomealways. the nicknameMili. proper nameforsuchapreciouscat!Fromthatcame Dear Porlamar, Margarita Sandi Pomeroy good-bye tomyfavoriteboatcatMili! Grace, welettheweightedbagoverboardandsoIsaid August 6th,2007,andafteroneverseofAmazing ly bodynowsits:10°56.7N,63°49.9W.At0939on hand-held GPSwemarkedthespotwhereMili’searth- the boatsatanchor,westoppeddinghy.Witha ing InowcallhomeinPorlamar,Venezuela,beyond Straight outfrommylivingroomwindow,inthebuild- was readytotakeusoutforaproperburialatsea. him onelasttime,too.Thenmyfriendcalledtosayhe stroke hisheadandtohaveMissi,myothercat,see passed awaythenightbefore,Ihadtimetositand Hispanic cat,Icalledher reply. Agirlkitty!Weighingakiloandbeing “gatita ogatito?”(Girlorboykitten?)“Gatita”washer the surrogate“owner”(agirlaroundtenyearsold) Dear S/V AnnaMaria Matthew Clegg after all. are away,becausethemooringsmaybenotsosecure securing theirboatsonhurricanemooringswhilethey would cautionyourreaderstothinktwiceabout ings maybeinvitingtargetsforwould-bethieves.I of absenteeowners,andboatsfoundonsuchmoor- moorings maygainareputationforsecuringtheboats management company. cane mooring,whichIhadrentedfromalocalyacht occurred. Theboathadbeenleftonaso-calledhurri- I wasatmyhomeinCaliforniawhentheincident 2007 inWoburnBayalongthesouthcoastofGrenada. that occurredtomyvessel, Dear — Bay, Carriacou,andImanagedtobeatthem all.Only left inlateDecembersohecouldpopup anyday. Classic YachtRegattainAprilAntigua. Theysaidhe Wylo) washeadedupfromAfricatrying tomakethe think) andfoundoutNickSkeats(designer ofthe for mysupper.MetaWylosloopnamed kept mestockedwithlocalknowledgeand afewfish time tokeepitcool.Imetanicelocalnamed Hopewho off thesunandacoolbreezecomingthrough allthe little boatyardonthebeach.Hadaroofoverittokeep dutchman inthebottomofhismizzenmastasweet buddy SpeedyJohnwasthereon so nowI’mgonnamakearunforitdownwind. eight Vineyardersaboard.Ijustcouldn’tshakethem, should passmebutJeffGibsononacharterboatwith the sametime.IwassailingtoCarriacouandwho Vineyard onBequiaandtheywerealltheislandat Carriacou. Imetatotalof15peoplefromMartha’s fished thewholewayanddidn’tcatchathing. a lotofrainandthevegetationismuchmorelush.I recommend it.Thewindwardsidesoftheseislandsget of youevergetthechancetodosuchathingIhighly down thewindwardoreasternshoreofGrenada.Ifany terday morning(February24th)fromCarriacou,sailing local “mil” (1000Bolivars,orabout67UScents)inthe Mili wasmymostconstantfriendfornineyearsand Mili’s favoriteplacetosleepwasattheheadofmy He wasahunterandinoneseven-dayperiodhe He wasquicktolearngoodmanners,andwhere He wasborntobeaboatcat.lovedtheflyingfish At threemonthsofageMilicentbegantogrowthings After Ipickedhimupfromthevet’swherehe’d In retrospect,itseemseasytobelievethatcertain I wouldliketomakeyourreadersawareofabreak-in There werealotofsailingdinghiestorace inTyrell I ranintosomegoodpeopleinCarriacou.Myold I’ve spentthelastmonthbetweenBequiaand Hello allfromsunnyGrenada.Icamedownhereyes- A wee,whiteballoffluff,nineyearsago,itcosta Continued frompreviouspage mercado Compass Compass Caribbean Compass inPuertolaCruz,Venezuela.Iasked Readers, ,

the best! ,

Milicent KiloMercado,a Anna Maria Gaucho , inNovember . Iputa Flower (I —Continuedonnextpage what wasassumedtobethedivevessel inquestion. Hughes ofWindDancer(Grenada)Ltd., who operates There wasaresponseintheFebruaryissue fromPeter liveaboard divevesseloperatinginthe Grenadines. polypropylene mooringlineswhichwere placedbya to bewareofunbuoyed,floating,one-and-a-half-inch the Januaryissueof Dear S/V Victoria2 Keith andVivienneKirmond the Venezuelanwaters.Is We usedtheinfoinyourpublicationtosafelynavigate found yourpublicationmostinformativeandhelpful. Pass Christian,Mississippi,allthewaytoAruba.Have on twoislands! vided theadditionalmeds.Greatcareandkindness husband wenttothecliniconCanouanandtheypro- the prescribedmedicationlongerthanIhadpills.My kindness. MyUSdoctorrecommendedthatIbeon We couldneverhavedoneitwithouttheirhelpand for Canouanandcontinuedonourtripdownisland. this helpandkindness. bring usbacktoourdinghy.Iwassogratefulforallof Basil’s droveustoDr.Freddy’sclinicandwaited on aSaturdayeveningtoseeme.Oneofthewaitersat bartender calledDr.Freddyandheopenedtheclinic macy andwalkedintoBasil’sBarforinformation.The outbreak. Myhusbandwentashorelookingforaphar- my firstfeverblister—whichturnedouttobemajor their help.Iwasmiserableandinpain,sufferingwith employees ofBasil’sBar,Mustique,andDr.Freddyfor Dear Yacht EmmaGoldman Dennis White Bonaire. and ifI’mfeelinggoodabouteverythingI’llbypass stay about80milesnorthoftheVenezuelanislands estimating tento15daysforthepassage.Iplan down thecourse.Icangeticeandyogurtthere.am it isDutchandontheway.That’s400nauticalmiles give thewholeplaceamiss.ImaystopinBonaire,as gings happeninginVenezuelaatthepresentI’mgonna due west—270°.Ihavedecidedthatwithallthemug- is 1400milestoRoatanIsland,Honduras.Course a whileandIgettoturnwestheaddownwind.It Windward Islandsmyclose-reachingdaysareoverfor ful ofclassicyachtsintheregatta. sics. It’skindagoodI’mhereasthereareonlyahand- downwind. Anyway, guys hadtobeatallthewayherewhereasIcamein Seems theracestartedinSt.George’s.Allthosepoor cross thelinesecondbutIwascomingwrongway! Yacht Regatta’sfirstracewasfinishing.Imanagedto and hadapizzawithhim. him almosteverydayIwasthere.ranintoBananas speed. SawHutchandhadfunsailingaroundwith for sure.Sometimestacticsaremoreimportantthan to seehimthenexttimethroughandthenweshall downwind buttoweatherhecanpointhigher.Ihope one Ihaven’tbeatisDan’sof to spendtimehere. away anddisposeofitproperly. please separateitfirstandtakethecansglass only asfarweknowinCuraçao. they don’thaveaccesstotheEuroShopperbeersold tles andglassfancypreservejars.Notthefishermen: and leftdozensofEuroShopperbeercans,winebot- four anchoragewheresomeboatshadburntgarbage and bottles.Onebeachinparticularthenumber after ninemonthsandfindingthebeachesfullofcans one anchorage. which almostdestroyedthemangrovesinnumber cruisers alsoleftfiresburningwhentheysailedaway properly outatsea12milesoffshore.Atthistime took allthecansandbottlesdisposedofthem and bottlesleftonthebeachesbyothercruisers.We Forewinds Venezuela, weandfriendson Dear CC tions totheentirepublication. com. Seeourwebsitealsofordetailsofon-linesubscrip- the monthlyprinteditionisatwww.caribbeancompass. Dear Monica, Fidelis II Monica Montagnet Thanks, [ Our five-monthsailingodysseyhastakenusfrom With medicationinhand,wedepartedthenextday Just wantedusethisforumtosaythanksthe So nowthatI’vereachedtheverybottomof When IpulledinhereyesterdaytheGrenadaClassic Please, pleasehelptopreservethisfragileecosystem. These islandsareveryspecialandwefeelprivileged If youaregoingtoburngarbageonthebeaches You canimaginehowdisappointedwearereturning Last yearwhilevisitingLasAvesBarlovento, Compass Thanks forsharingyourpositiveexperience. Editor’s note:ThisisfurthertoScottNichols’ letterin Compass Compass Compass spenthourscollectingandbaggingcans isavailableonline.Anabridgedversionof , , Readers, Emma Compass Compass fitsrightinwiththeclas- , warningotherboaters S/V Jezebel Spindrift availableonline? . Ibeathim and S/V ] APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49 Readers, Compass “Concerned Citizen” states they are looking for an for an states they are looking “Concerned Citizen” a restau- “Concerned Citizen” is really I suspect that We want to hear from YOU! name or address, and Please include your name, boat consumer complaints or We do not publish individual Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. Send your letters to: [email protected] or fax (784) 457-3410 or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia St. Vincent & the Grenadines easy way to survive. I would say they are looking for looking for I would say they are easy way to survive. them away And any job that keeps a way to survive. or begging or selling marijuana, stealing from growing the jobs are fellow citizens believe that because their and contin- deserves our respect reserved for them, ued support. inform us in would he/she otherwise rant-owner. Why gone down that restaurant sales have the same letter some restaurants are not 50 percent? The reason the Grenadines is because doing well in St. Vincent & quality of food, or type of they are not providing the tourists want, like and food, or price level, that the SVG simply because I can accept. I scarcely eat out in in my own house, instead cook the food much better in his twenties playing of having a European youngster and charging me an “international chef” in the kitchen arm and a leg for it. Please sign me, of St. Vincent & the Another Concerned Citizen Grenadines Dear (preferably by e-mail) if a way we can contact you clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Budget Marine Randy’s Food Center Pirate’s Cove Tickles Crown Bay Marina Office Island Marine Offshore Marine Frenchtown Deli Sandfill Island Water World SubBase at any of these locations. Advertisers in this issue are at any of these locations. Advertisers in this issue are Readers! When in the USVI, pick up your free monthly copy of Readers! When in the USVI, pick up your free monthly PICK UP! worried about tourists www.caribbeancompass.com Compass Caribbean Compass . Compass On-Line • Advertisers’ Directory • Check It Out… Tell Your Friends! Compass We’re on theWeb! We’re Caribbean Compass bold Ahoy, in the , Schooner Bay Market (Christiansted) Connections (Cruz Bay) Connections (Coral Bay) Donkey Diner Keep Me Posted Sapphine Hotel Lobby Sapphire Marina Office Burrito Bay Deli Island Marine Coffee Cart Molly Malone’s AYH Marina Office Red Hook Mall Yacht Club Patsy’s Place Compass ST. JOHN: ST. THOMAS: Red Hook ST. CROIX: Continued from previous page Continued from (Compass Point) I am sure that the yachting community is capable of And I would happily buy a hundred lobsters barbe- And I would happily buy a I believe it is a great way of trying to survive, by sup- I believe it is a great way of I’d like to respond to “Concerned Citizen” who in the I’d like to respond to “Concerned making their own judgments whether they trust a making their own judgments whether they trust a stranger to prepare their food or not. At least they get to see the face of the person cooking, and they might even also know his name and the name of his dinghy. If some of these service providers are a bit overbearing, let us then address it on a individual level instead of trying to put down a whole community of working men and women. cued by an ex-convict if that helps him to put food on cued by an ex-convict if that the table for his family, rather than seeing him forced to go back to whatever criminal activity he was involved in before, probably at the time also trying to put food on the table. plying the yachts with a service they obviously are plying the yachts with a life of me understand why asking for. I do not for the to eat a lobster cooked by it would be more dangerous it at an overpriced res- a school drop-out than eating underpaid staff don’t get taurant where the seriously need to care for the cus- the incentive or training they tomers’ well-being. being poisoned when eating food prepared by “school being poisoned when eating ex-convicts who look for an drop-outs, young boys and easy way to survive”. March edition of the — your Peter Hughes of Wind Dancer, In regards to not neces- missing mooring ball was apology for the time. But loses a marker buoy some sary. Everyone Your moor- the riser should sink. when this happens, the ball floating poly riser and when ing is a black Flying five there floating but unseen. is gone it stays of these schooner, I ran over one sails on a 75-foot hours after leaving Isle De Ronde three floating lines boat dead in my prop and leaving my you left, fouling the water. Scott Nichols Schooner Satori Dear APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 use thisemailaddress: If youwouldlikemoreinformationabout thisjoborsendyourCVtous,please Anyone withaninterestiswelcometoapply. have apositivedispositiontolifethiscouldbeyourDREAMjob. This isaFUNjobwithgreatearningpotential.Ifyouarewillingtoworkhardand We offer fulltrainingonsiteintheCaribbean. Dive master/instructorforeithertheCaptainand/orChefisaplus. Chef/Hostess withabasicunderstandingofcooking. licence. Requirements: CaptainwithaSkipper’s between CaptainandChefthemoresuccessfulyourcharterswillbe. The natureofthejobissuchthatbetterunderstandingandteamwork We prefercouplesthataremarriedORhavebeenlivingtogetherforatleastayear. We arelookingforcrew, mainlyteamsintheformofaCaptainandChef/Hostess. 4 06Ausa eba,10PYmh $34,900 $167,000 $60,000 $119,000 38’ 1999SeaRaySundancer,mercruisers,18kts, $69,000 32’ 1996Carver325,twincrusadersgreatcondition$99,000 31’ 1999SeaRaySundancer,newengines,2005$79,900 $79,500 14’ 2006AquascanJetboat,160HPYamaha 43’ 1995Hunter430,steppedtransom,2strms 40’ 1987O’DaySloop,Westerbeke,2strms 40’ 1986HunterLegendroomy,aftcockpit 37’ 2001BavariaSloop,3strms,Yanmardiesel Call, faxorvisitourwebsiteforacompletelistofboatssale ST. THOMAS YACHTSALES 44’ 1982TaChiaoCT Tel. StVincent +784 4573407Tel. StMaarten+5995510550 or bymailto:BequiaMarina,P.O.Box 194BQ, PortElizabeth, email: [email protected] $89,900 CREW VACANCIES! operating TERM CHARTERS, allinclusive,7days. We arethefastestgrowingchartercompany, six destinationsintheCaribbean. TradeWinds CruiseCluboperateafleetofcatamaransacross Compass PointMarina,6300Est.Frydenhoj,Suite28, [email protected] Bequia, StVincent &theGrenadines www.stthomasyachts.com St. Thomas,U.S.V.I.00802 Fax: (340)779-2779 Tel: (340)779-1660 [email protected] Power Sail 33’ 1973Pearson10MSloop, $33,500

faster boatsovertakingsmaller,slowerboats. is merelyaddingtotheexistingrules. tional judgeswhosaythatthiscanbedone.Theyitisnotchangingtherules, it permissible toaltertheracingrules,butIhavecheckedwithtwoseniorinterna- to provethatsheusedherbesteffortskeepclear. must keepclear.Ifthereisaprotestorcollision,theonusonovertakingboat a relevantruleshouldbeinsertedintheracinginstructions. in regattaswherethereisagreatdifferencespeedthecompetingboatsfeelthat members oftheprotestcommitteewerehighlyregardedinternationaljudges. bar abouttheincompetenceofprotestcommittee,despitethatfactsome Not onlythat,butwhentheyweredisqualified,latercomplainedbitterlyatthe the helmsmanandtacticianoflargerboatwereanACCtactician. an overlapexiststheovertakingboathasrightsthatcomplicateissue. but sincetheword“overtaking”hasdisappearedfromracingrules,assoon boats intightsituations. dozen near-disasters—allcausedbylarger,fasterboatsovertakingsmaller,slower how manyhavehappenedworldwide? two cases,thesmallerboatsweresunk.IfIpersonallyknowfiveseriousaccidents, the leachlineheld,almostcapsizinganddismastingsmallerboat.Infinal the smallerboat’smasttorelargermain,openingituplufftoleach.But ketch, lostbothmasts.Another,ayawl,suddenlybecamesloop.Inthethirdcase, taking aslower,smallerboatandcausingseriousdamage.Oneboat, sion and,insomecases,accidents. cated. Eventhosewhoknowtherulescaninterpretthemdifferently,causingconfu- the samelegsofacourseandroundingmarks,thingscangetverycompli- you haveboatsofdifferentsizeswithconsiderabledifferencesinspeed,sailingon tled “ProperCourse”intheJanuary2008issueof problems forthosewhoknowtherules. speed, theeliminationofoldrule“overtakingboatkeepclear”hascausedfew in anefforttosimplifyandclarifytherules.Aslongasboatsareofsimilarsize handicap ratings,butoccasionallytodangeroussituations. wide varietiesofboatsinoneclass.Thissometimesleadsnotonlytoquarrelsabout Ireland Don Street If thisweredone,itwoulddomuchtoeliminatethecollisionscausedbylarger, Some racecommitteememberswithwhomIhavediscussedthisfeelthatitisnot The insertedruleshouldbesomethingtothefollowingeffect:overtakingboat In thelightofaccidentsandnearaccidents,manycompetitorswhohavesailed In thecaseofsmallboatopeningupsaillargerwithitsmast, In allcasesboatswerecompetentlycrewedbycrewsthatknewtheracingrules, I notonlyknowoffivedisasters,butovertheyearshavewitnessedatleasta I personallyknowoffiveseriousaccidentsinvolvingamuchfasterbigboatover- However, asexplainedbyJohnDoerrinhisexcellentarticleonracingrulesenti- About 30yearsagotheword“overtaking”disappearedfromyachtracingrules Yacht racingintheCaribbeanisthriving,butmanyregattasinclude Dear In

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I said, swearing some more, as he proceeded to

WHAT’S ON MY MIND WHAT’S ON DON’T LEAVE PORT WITHOUT IT Don’t swear at people, it doesn’t help! In front of all his friends the spokesman could not have backed down and removed There is often a lesson to be learnt from situations such as these. I feel that in this Meanwhile, we buoyed and cast off the stern line, lifted and re-laid the anchor and Meanwhile, we buoyed and cast off the stern line, lifted “I forbid you to touch the anchor,” “Okay, mon, de other ting we go’ do is we go’ lift yo’ anchor over de net, so we can “Okay, mon, de other ting we go’ do is we go’ lift yo’ anchor Now there were two reasons that I wasn’t going to pass him the bitter end of myNow there were two reasons “No problem, mon, jus’ pass me de end of yo’ chain and we go’ pass de net under me de end of yo’ chain and we go’ pass de net under “No problem, mon, jus’ pass “Hey mon, pass me de end of yo’ anchor chain.” “Hey mon, pass me de end had been launched from the beach on one side of us, Sure enough, the net which We were anchored in Wallilabou Bay, St. Vincent, with a stern line tied to a palm Bay, St. Vincent, with a stern line tied to a palm We were anchored in Wallilabou laying their net around us!” “Dad, those fishermen are “I’m sure they know what they’re doing.” “Oh, don’t worry son,” I said, more attention, until ten minutes later, with a rap on For the time being I paid no his net. I should have realised this and worked with him, perhaps by laying out the small kedge anchor over his net, before lifting the main anchor. case the lesson must be: as we came back in astern, I was in such a rage that I managed to tangle the buoyed stern line in the propeller! ‘You want me to do what?’ jump overboard, attach a rope to our anchor, pull it up and dump it unceremoni- jump overboard, attach a rope to our anchor, pull it hauled the net under us ously beyond the net. Sure enough, the group on the beach and successfully landed their catch! pull de net under yo’ keel.” anchor chain. Firstly, there remained about 30 meters of chain in the chain locker,anchor chain. Firstly, there hepulling out and passing to him, even if I thought that which I really didn’t fancy boat, as he was. Secondly,could stand the weight of it, balanced on his small rowing want to hand him the onlywith the beach only 20 meters astern of us, I really didn’t So I swore at him a lot. thing that was holding us off, namely the chain and anchor! yo’ keel.” rowed out in an arc and landed on the other side of us, had now been hauled in on the other side of us, had now been hauled rowed out in an arc and landed preventing the completion of this communal fishing fairly tightly and the only thing were anchored squarely in the middle. The spokesman venture was the fact that we for the group assured me: tree on the beach. One morning I laughed when my nine-year-old son said: tree on the beach. One morning the hull, I heard: APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 www.santabarbaraplantation.com For asafeberth… www.midatlanticyachtservices.com Services &Repairs for Trans-Atlantic YachtsServices Come andfindusamongstthetrees! C YACHT SERVICES car [email protected] PT-9900-144 HORTA /FAIAL, AZORES Phone:(784)457-3000 Candlelight Dinners Monday toSaturday Phone:(784)457-3000 FAX +351292391656 T T T T TEL +351292391616 [email protected] C MID ATLANTIC Please Reserve! Bequia,St.VincentBe HARDWOOD MARINE PLY H M [email protected] Electronics, Chandlery,Electronics, Rigging TEAK TE a SERU BOCA SERU BOCA Caribbean CompassMarketPlace EU-VAT (15%)Importation Bunkered Fuel(+10,000lt) i ARDWOO Tel: r in Lower Bay, Bequia ARIN bwoods@v Curaçao Antigua i MARINA Bequia Azores b Providing allvital A q ( uia, St.Vincen Yamaha engines b 784 e K a and service and service ) US$10–11/BF US 458-3758 n i We sell nc E W W y $ PLY surf.com 10 –11/BF o o t

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APRIL 2008 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55

TANOGUCHI Down Island Ltd www.islandvillas.com Land and houses for sale For full details see our website: or contact Carolyn Alexander at Alexander or contact Carolyn We also handle Villa Rentals & also handle Villa We e-mail: [email protected] Tel: (473) 443 8182 Fax: (473) 443 8290 (473) Tel: For more information contact ECCN Director Nathalie In Tobago, children took part in a beach clean-up on ECCN island coordinators will be partnering with ECCN island coordinators The “Live Free in the Sea” 2008 program will educate youngThe “Live Free in the Sea” 2008 On March 25th the Whale and Dolphin Conservation the Whale and Dolphin Conservation On March 25th Property Management on Carriacou Property CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE Ward at [email protected]. Turtle Beach, where the litter collected will be recycled Turtle Beach, where the litter collected will be recycled to make functional art. This is the main nesting site of endangered leatherback and hawksbill sea turtles on Tobago. In Saint Lucia, children will participate in a whale and dolphin watching tour, and research and write a children’s book for the school library on whales and dolphins that migrate through their waters. In Grenada, participants in the program will produce a video that will be distributed to the local cable channel. In Bequia, Saint Vincent & the Grenadines, children will take part in a beach clean-up, where collected bottlecaps will be used to make a large sea- themed mural for display in the community. primary and secondary schools to conduct activities primary and secondary schools to conduct activities under this theme. The program on each island will consist of environmental education, environmental action, and an artistic component (for example, music, performing arts, functional or aesthetic art). Children will participate in lectures, discussions and activities on the coastal and marine environment, their inhabit- ants and how their actions impact them. Whales and dolphins, sea turtles and coral reefs and mangroves will be topics of focus. people in Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent & the Grenadines,people in Saint Lucia, Saint their actions on land canGrenada, and Tobago about how life.affect beaches, reefs and marine Society (WDCS) announced a new educational initia- announced a new educational Society (WDCS) of its “Live region with the launch tive in the Caribbean in partnership with the Free in the Sea” campaign Network (ECCN). Eastern Caribbean Cetacean Marine Conservation Conservation Marine Campaign Education for Youth Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Trinidad Publishing Company Limited