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The Travels of a Hindoo to Various Parts of Bengal

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The Travels of a Hindoo to Various Parts of Bengal THE TRAVELS OF A HINDOO TO VARIOUS PARTS OF BENGAL AND UPPER INDIA. VOL. I I. BY BHOLANAUTH CHUNDER, MEMBER OF THE ASIATIC SOCIETY OF BENGAL. London 1869. Reproduced by Sani H. Panhwar (California 2014) CONTENTS OF VOL. II. CHAPTER I. Futtehpore Sicri.— Its origin.—Colossal gateway.— Akber’s palace.— His monster dice-board.—Beerbul’s house.—Badshahi coshminars, or milestones.— Secundra.—Akber’s tomb. —His greatness.—Munee Begum’s tomb.—Muttra.— Its antiquity.—Accounts of, by Chinese travellers.—The Kunsatila. —Analogy of incidents in the history of Christ and Krishna. —The sentimental traveller at Muttra.—The Jumna below that city.—Bisram-ghaut and its mela.—Worship of Bacchus and Greek colony at Muttra.—Mahmood’s description of that city. — Jain temple of the Paruckjees.—The Katra, or market-place.—Fort and observatory of Rajah Jeysing.—Massacre of the priests during a festival.—The Chowbays.—A Chowbaynee.—Muttra hospital and the Dhutoreeas.—Activity of trade. —A Hindoo ruth, or carriage.—Pastoral state of the country in former times.—Road from Muttra to Brindabun.—Insecurity of pilgrimages to Brindabun before the British rule. Brindabun Pandas. — Sanctity of the place. — Ancient Vrij.— Its desolation by the Islamite.—Restoration of Brindabun by Choitunya.—Identification of the ancient Penates.—Tour of the temples.— Govinjee.—His temple.—Young Bengal’s address to him. .. 1 CHAPTER II. Other temples.—Statue of Gopinath.—Statue of Radha.—The Jumna at Brindabun.—Kaisee-ghaut.—Bukasoor-ghaut.— Busliter-hurun tree. — Ukoor- ghaut and the origin of the ‘car-festival.’—Kalya-dah ghaut and its legend.— Brahma-koond. Gopeswara.—Hureedoss Gossain and Tansen.—The Pooleen, or Ras-mandala.—Lallah Baboo.—The Jain temple.—Needhoo-bun.—Monkeys at Brindabun.—Muddun Mohnna.—Neekoonj-bun.—Baka-Behary.—Radha- rumun.—Doubtfulneas of the objects at Brindabun.—Vrij-bashees and Vrij- bashinees.—The ex-Rajah of Hatras.—Pundit Rangachari Swami. —Vrij-bashee antipathy against the Bangslees.—The old man of ninety-siz.—The Natuck, or drama at Brindabun.— Radha-koond.--Mount Gnverdhun and its legend.— Festival of Anna-coot—Saraje Mull’s tomb.—Churun-paharee.—Kammya-bun.— Burshana. — Nanda-gaon. — Gokul.— Departure from Brindabun. .. 29 CHAPTER III. Hatras.—Coel-Allygurh.—French rule in India.—The runaway Bengalee Baboo.—Khoorjah.—Boolundsber.—First view of Delhi.—Its antiquity.—The Rail, a great innovator. —Apostrophe on the fallen state of Delhi.—Chronological mode of sight-seeing.—Indraprastha, or Pooranah Killah.— Its description in the Mahabarat.—Judishthira’e Rajsuye.— Negumbode-ghaut.—Flies in Delhi.— Keela Kona mosque.— Share Mundil.—Old Delhi.—The Iron Pillar and its legends. —Bulwan Deo.—Lalkot.—Rajah Pirthi-raj.—Rai Pithora.— The Bhoot- Khana.—Mahomedan conquest of India.—Musjeed-i-Kootub-ul-Islam.—The Kootub Minar.—The unfinished Minar.—Altamash’s tomb.—Diving-wells in Mehrowlie.—Adam Khan’s tomb.—Rupamati.—Ruby Palace.—Kilokeree.—Alia Durwaza, or Gate of Alla-ud-deen.—Emam Zamin.—Metcalfe House.—Kootub bungalow.—Jogh Maya. —Siri.—Rooshun Chiragh.—Hunumanjee. — Toglukabad.— Mahomed Togluk.—Mahomedabad.—Jehan-Pannah.—Leela Boorj.—Tir Boorj.—Nizam-ud-deen Oulia.—Poet Chusero’s tomb.—Princess Jehanara’s tomb.—Mahomed Shah’s tomb. —Mirza Jehangire’s tomb.—Jumaat Khans mosque.—Nizamud-deen’s well.—Ferozabad, or the Kotila.—Lat, or Staff of Firoz Shah.—Kushak Shikar.—Kala Musjeed.—Kirkhee.— Sut-poolla Bund.— Firoz Shah’s canal.—Hous-Khass.—Patan greatness of Delhi.—Timoor’s invasion.—His battle-field. — Collapse of Delhi.—Beloli and Secunder Lodi.— Deen-pannah. Delhi-Shere-Shah — Selimgurh.— Abul Fazil’s description of Delhi.—The Patan and Mogul compared.— Hoomayoon’s tomb.—Hadjee Begum.—Dara.---Shekoh.—Jehander Shah.—Feroksere.— Ruffeh-n-Dirjat.— Ruffeh-u-Dowlah.—Alumgeer II.—Bahadoor Shah’s retreat.—Hodson and the Shazadaha.—Burra-Pul.— Arab-ke-serai. — Mukburrah Khan Khanan.— Musjeed Esa Khan.—Tagah Khan.—Chowsut Khumha.—Lal bungalow.—Kala Mahl.—Jehanara’s serai.— Shah Jehannabad, or modern Delhi.—The culminating days of Mogul rule.—Building of Shah Jehannabad.—Its various gates. —Chandney Chowk.--Jumma Musjeed.—Imam Hossein’s. Manuscript of the Koran.—Ramazan at the Jumma Musjeed —Fort or Palace of Shah Jehan.— Lahore-gate of the Fort. Nowbut-khanna. —Dewanni-aum.—Marble throne.— Great Mogul justice.—Dewanni-khas.—Tukt Taous, or Peacock Throne. — Bernier’s description of the Mogul court.—Anecdote of coffee-drinking.—The Seraglio.—The Hummaums, or baths. —Tusbear Khannah, or the picture- gallery.—Mooti Masjeed. — Shah Bang, or royal garden.—Delhi-gate of the palace.—Shalimar gardens.—Ali Merdan’s canal.—Mogul houses and thatched buildings in former Delhi.—Aurungzebe and his age.—Koomari Musjeed, or Maiden Mosque.—Roshenara gardens.—Tomb of Zeebun-ul-Nissa.—Mahomed Shah and his times.—Koodseah Baug.—Tez Hazari Baug.—Nadir Shah and his invasion.—Ronhun-a-Dowla.—Khoonie Durwaza.—Sack of Delhi.—The Junter Munter, or observatory.—The Sufder Jung.—Sadut Khan and Nizam-ul- Moolk.—Sufder Jung and Ghazi-ud-deen Khan.—Madrissa, or College of Ghazi- uddeen.—Ahmed Shah Doorani.—Rise and progress of the Mahrattas and Jauts.—Mahratta possession of Delhi.—Final Mahratta and Mogul contest.— Gholam Kadir.—Scindia and Perron.—The Great Mogul in 1793, 1803, and 1824.—His Zenana.—Zinat Mahl Begum.—Company Jehan and the Great Mogul.—Bahadoor Shah.—Sir C. Metcalfe, Resident. —Lord Ahmerst at Delhi.— Lord W. Bentinck there.—Lord Ellenborough there.—Lord Dalhousie’s abolition of the pageant of the Great Mogul.—State of the palace immediately before the Mutiny.— The ex-Great Mogul and his Begum under surveillance.—Fate of the last descendant of Timoor. —The Moslem and his rule.—Skinner’s Church.— William Fraser and Nawab Shums-dood-deen.—Delhi College.—The Magazine and Lieutenant Willoughby.—Mutiny at Delhi.—Remains of the English trenches.—Hindoo Rao.—Sammy House.—Siege of Delhi.—Blowing of the Cashmere Gate.—Brigadier Nicholson.—Final capture of Delhi.—Sir John Lawrence’s prohibition of its demolition.—The amnesty.—Delhi under the Moguls.—Its population at various times.—The Moguls in India.—Mussulmans and Hindoos.—Delhi and Calcutta compared.—Former and present opulence of Delhi.—Arts and merchandise there.—Cheap living.—Delhi Institute.—Statues of Jeimul and Puttoo.—Portraits in the Museum.—Archaeological collections.— The miraculous croft —Government College.—Intellectual progress of the Delhiites.—Queen’s Gardens.—Delhi Canal.—Festival of the Dewallee.—Lalla Choona Mull. —Delhi-ka-Ludhoo.—Delhi women.—Omrao Sing.—Departure from Delhi.—Grand Durbar of Sir John Lawrence at Agra.—The Taj illumination.—The Viceroy and Native princes.— The civilization of the East and West compared. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 61 TRAVELS OF A HINDOO. CHAPTER I. November 1. — UP at dawn to proceed to Futtehpore Sicri. Indeed, fate must have destined us to try all sorts of carriages, for the one that was to take us on this morning had to be drawn by a camel. There was the gharry waiting at the door with the head of the camel on a level with the head of the coachee, and affording an oddity for a caricature in Punch. But it is the extreme obedience of the animal, and the unflagging equableness of its pace, that must have always recommended the camel in a long journey, and that fast wore out the prejudices which had been at first felt against our utterly strange mode of travelling. In passing by the artillery practice-ground, we were reminded of the tomb of the Empress Jodh Bai that at one time stood there, ranking among the architectural curiosities of Agra. But the walls and magnificent gateways that surrounded it, had been first taken away and sold by a thrifty government, and then the tomb itself was experimentalized upon for a practical lesson in mining. No palliation can ever be urged to defend an outrage upon the dead—far less can any plea extenuate the act of blowing up into the air the remains of a woman, no other than Akber’s favourite Sultana, to whom the people of India owed much of the good they enjoyed under his long reign, by inspiring not only her husband, but the most able Mahomedan minister that India has ever had, with feelings of universal benevoknee. From Agra to Futtehpore Sicri is twenty-four miles, or a good six hours drive in a gharry. The whole way, says Fitch, resembled a market, as full as though a man were still in a town. To confirm this, numerous mosques, tombs, and houses, all more or less in ruins, still occur along the road. But much of the country appears to have been brought under the plough, and turned into fields for rice crops and the growth of other staples. Futtehpore Sicri was something like the Windsor Palace of Akber. The town is situated on the crest of a hill, rising abruptly from the plains to the height of a hundred and fifty feet, and enclosed by a high stone rampart with battlements and towers, five miles in circuit. The whole extent of this space in its present state is one scene of desolation, strewed more or less with the ruins of broken columns, walls, gateways, and porticoes, in huge fragments of stone and masonry. Formerly, a great part of the surrounding low country had been laid out in an extensive artificial lake, twenty miles of circumference, the dam of which is still traceable in many parts. The hill at first was little frequented by men, and on its The Travels Of A Hindoo To Various Parts Of Bengal And Upper India: Copyright © www.panhwar.com 1 top lived in seclusion a hoary and holy fakir, under the name of Sheik Salim. But few places in India have become famous under more romantic circumstances than Futtehpore Sicri. The Emperor Akber was of an age verging upon thirty. He was then monarch over the fairest provinces of Hindoostan Proper.
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