The Travels of a Hindoo to Various Parts of Bengal and Upper India. Vol. I. By
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THE TRAVELS OF A HINDOO TO VARIOUS PARTS OF BENGAL AND UPPER INDIA. VOL. I. BY BHOLANAUTH CHUNDER, MEMBER OF THE ASIATIC SOCIETY OF BENGAL. London 1869. Reproduced by Sani H. Panhwar (California 2014) CONTENTS OF VOL I. A TRIP UP THE HOOGHLY. CHAPTER I. Preliminary remarks.—The date of the earliest trip.—Chitpore. —Legend of Chitraswari.—Cossipore.—Burranagur.—Duckinasore.— Balli.—Penhatty.— Sumaj of Raghub Pundit. —Khurdah.--The Gossains.—Mahesh.—Serampore.— Barrackpore.—The Hindoo Lady of Job Charnock.—Ghiretty.— Chandernagore.—The French Revolution there.—Chinsurah. —Hooghly.—The annihilation of the Portuguese power in Bengal. —Satgaun.— Triveni.— Doomurdah.— The robber-chief Issur Baboo.—Sooksagur.—Chagdah.— Goopteeparah. --Santipoor.—Kulna.—Nuddea.—Traditions of its origin. —Its celebrity as a place of learning.—History of Choitunya. —Present state of the Brahmins of Nuddea.—A Gymnosophist.—Jahn-nugger.—Brahmaditala.— Snake-charmers and snake-players.—Krishnugger.—Anecdote of convict labour. —Rajah Krishna Chunder Roy.—The poet Bharut Chunder.— Agradweep.— Cutwa.—Choitunya’s adoption of Dundeeism.—Clive and the guardian angel of Britain.—Plassey.— The river Adjai.—Bisramtullak—Soopoor.—Rajah Surath.— The vagabond Sunnyassi.—Kenduli, the birth-place of Joydeva.—Doobrajpoor.— Hot wells of Bukkesur.—Soory.--The old woman of eighty-six.—Cynthia.— Jammo-Kundee—Festival of Rasjatra.—Berhampore.—The Irish Raja of Hurrianah.—Kasimbazar.—Moorshedabad, as it was and as it is.—The new palace of the Nabob Nazim.—His Zenana.—Jungi-pore.—Sooty.--The ruins of Gour . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1 CHAPTER II. Rajmahal.—The Mootee-Jhurna waterfall.—Secreegully—The Terriagurry Pass.—Peer-Pointee.—Colgong.—Bhagulpore.-- Cleveland’s monuments.— Mount Mandar.—The rock of Jan-. geerah.—Sultangung.—The ancient Buddhist Vihara, or monastery.—Jumalpore tunnel.--Hot springs of Seetakoond.— Mongbyr.—Ancient Palibothra and modern. Patna.—Bankipore.—The sacred Peepul tree of Buddha.—Herihar-Chetra Mela and Sonepore Races.— Dinapore.—The Soane Bridge.— Arrah.—Chuprah.—Ghazipore.—Lord Cornwallis’s tomb.— Chunar.—Trimbukjee Danglia, the ex-minister of Baja Row.—The Almighty’s seat at Chunar.—Mirzapore.—The temple of Bindachul. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 50 A TOUR TO THE NORTH-WEST. CHAPTER III. Introductory remarks.—Railway in India.—Pundooa tower.—Battle of the Cow.—The ghost of a bovine Bhuggobuttee.— The iron rod, or Shah Sufi’s walking-stick.—Peer-pukur and Fatiklian, or the tame alligator.--Boinchi.—The robber in India.—The Amazon Kali.—Mam aree.—Bu rd wan.—The tale of Biddya and Soondra.—Biddyapotta, or the abode of Biddya. —The Maunsurrobur, or Raja Maun’s tank.—The Mushan, or the place of Soondra’s execution.—The Nabobhaut.— Shere Afkun’s tomb.—The old Rajbaree.—The Maharajah of Burdwan.—Kristoshair and female swimmers.—The Dilk-hoosa- baug.—The menagerie and its lions.—The future of Hindoo shrines and temples. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 73 CHAPTER IV. Mankur.—Paneeghur.—Legend of Byjnath.—Hindoo opinion of coals.—The petrified forest at Singarim.—Raneegunge.— Hindoo and Anglo-Saxon characteristics.—The future of Raneegunge.—Its collieries.— The Damooder.— The Grand Trunk Road.—Dawk travelling.—The Barakur river.—The Barakur serai.—Young Bengal’s picture of the prospective of India.—The Santhals, an aboriginal race.—Their homes and habits.—Santhal females.—Santhal polity and religion. —The hill-tribes of India.—Taldangah bungalow. .. 85 CHAPTER V. Mount Parisnatb.—Topechanchee.—The Hindoostanee proverb about Bengal.— Jain temple at Parisnath.—Doomree.—The desolation of the hill-regions.—The man carried by a tiger. —A gentleman’s encounter with a bear.—The break- down of a dawk-gharry.—Burhee.—Dunwah Pass.—Barrak-serai. —The sick child.—Legend of the Fulgoo river.—Shergotty. —The Vishnupud at Gaya.— Perpetual widowership of the Gayalese.—Antiquities of Oomga.—The legend of the Nerbudda and Soane.—Deyree.—Rotasgurh.—Koer Sing and Ummer Sing.— The Gossain-talao. — Sasseram.— Haseyn Khan’s tomb.—The tomb of Shere Shah.--Legend of the Caramnassa river.—Rajah Trisanku and Young Bengal. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 106 CHAPTER VI. Benares.—Its situation upon the Trident of Shiva and exemption from earthquakes.—Legend of Vyas-Kasi interpreted. —Hindoo characteristics of Benares.—The great antiquity, and description of that city in a Tamul drama.— The many changes in its site, and the origin of its present name.—Its modern features.—The fort of Benares.—The Rajghaut.— Khottah architecture.—The idols and temples.—Various sectarian influences at various times.—Bheloopoor, the birth-place of Parisnath.—The Ranee Dowager of Vizianagram.— Ghautscenes at Benares.—Teelabhandessur, and his history.—The legend of Munikurnika-ghaut.—The observatory.—Madoo-raike-dharara, or the mosque of Aurungzebe.—Ramnugger.— The temple of Biseswara.—The Gyan-Bapi.—The temple of Unna Poorna.—Sunnyassees and Bhoyrubbees.—Sameness of sight- seeing in Benares.—The Chouk.—The Benares college. —Comparison of Sanscrit and English.—Summing up of the account of Benares.—Secrole.—Church Mission School.—Warren Hastings at Benares in 1781, and the Englishman there in 1860.—A Mofussil magistrate and a Calcutta attorney.—The English burial- ground at Secrole.—The mutiny at Benares.—The Bengalee-tola, or the quarter of the Bengalees.— Sarnath.—The Buddhist temple of Dhamek.—Choukandi, or Luri-ka-kodan.—Description of Benares in the Kasi-khund.— Destruction of Sarnath . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 125 CHAPTER VII. Allahabad.—The Ganges and Jumna.—Shaving operation at their confluence.— The Allahabad mela.—Antiquity of the city.—Ancient Hindoo Republic at Allahabad.—Legend of the Seraswattee river.—The Allahabad fort.—The transmigration of Akber from a Hindoo Brahmin to a Mahomedan emperor— Importance of Allahabad during the mutiny.— Patalpooree, or the subterranean temple.—Bheema’s Gada or Lat.—Jehangeer and his Marwaree Begum.—Martial law at Allahabad.—Stories of the mutiny.—Hindoostanee peasant-women.—The Duria-ghaut. —Bhradwaj Muni’s hermitage.—The Chusero Bagh.—The rebel Moulivie and his well.--Battle of the Shoes.—The future of Allahabad.—The valley of the Doab.—Berhampore.—Futtehpore.—Cawnpore, past and present.— Shah Behari Lal’s ghaut.—Nana and his council.—MissWheeler.—The House of Massacre.—Intrenchments of General Wheeler.—Suttee-Chowra-ghaut—Ancient Khetryas and modern Sepoys.—The Ganges canal.—The visionary attorney.— Idolatry in Hindoostan and Bengal.— Chowbeypore.— Mera-ka-serai.— Kanouge.—Buddha’s tooth there in former times.—The ancient Hindoo citadel.—The Rang-Mahal.—Hindoo and Mahomedan accounts of Kanouge criticized.—The Grand Trunk Road in the Doab.—The drought of 1860.—The famine of 1861.—Mutiny-ruins along the road. —A mango tope.—Mynporee.— Shecoabad.—The Hindoostanee and Bengalee compared.—Former insecurity and pre-sent security of travelling in the Doab.—European fugitives during the mutiny.—Ferozabad.—Field of the wreck of Hindoo independence.—Approach to Agra. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 158 CHAPTER VIII. First view of Agra.—A Jumna sandbank.—Feizi.—The Gool-fushun and Charbagh of Baber.—The Etmad-ud-Dowla.— Fort of Agra.—Darsan Darwaza, or Gate of Sights.—The Lallah host. —Young Hindoostan’s parlour.—Excursion to the fort.—Umra Sing Ka fatuck.—Dewani-khas.—Sheesha Mahl, or Hall of Mirrors.—Akber’s harem.—Mogulfancy fairs. —The Phanseghur.— Dewanni- aum.— Mootee Musjeed.— Shah Jehan’s bath.—Jehangeer’s drinking-cup.— Great gun of Agra.—The Taj.—Its story.—Its architect.—Commemorative poems.—The public works of the Hindoos, the Mahomedans, and the English in India.—Taj gardens.—Antiquity of Agra.—Description of, by Jehangeer.—The Agra of 1860. —Its Chowk.—Varieties of its population.—Peculiarities of the Hindoostanees.—The Agra college.—Memorials of British rule at Agra.— Hindoostanee opinion of the Income Tax. .. .. .. 200 INTRODUCTION. ‘THE Travels of a Hindoo,’ by Baboo Bholanauth Chunder, which are now for the first time published in Europe, will be found on perusal to be among the most remarkable, and certainly among the most original, works which have hitherto appeared in connection with India. These Travels originally appeared from week to week in a Calcutta periodical entitled the Saturday Evening Englishman,’ and in that shape they soon attracted public attention. That the author was a Hindoo seemed scarcely open to question. His thoughts and expressions respecting family and social life were evidently moulded by a Hindoo training; whilst his observations and opinions, especially as regards places of pilgrimage and other matters connected with religion, were eminently Hindoo. At the same time, however, his thorough mastery of the English language, and his wonderful familiarity with English ideas and turns of thought, which could only have been obtained by an extensive course of English reading, appear to have led some to suspect that after all the real knight-errant might prove to be a European in the disguise of a Hindoo. The present writer has been requested by Baboo Bholanauth Chunder to introduce his Travels to the English public; and accordingly considers it desirable in the first place to assure the reader that the Baboo is a veritable Hindoo, and the author of the entire work. The writer of this introduction has not added or altered a single line or word; and is given to understand that the Baboo has derived no literary assistance whatever from any one, whether Native or European. The Baboo has given his solemn assurance that he is the sole author