Walks in Rome

The wheel of history The Oppian and Esquiline Hills Walks in Rome

• The Oppian and Esquiline Hills 8 1. Walking, walking... 9 2. The Domus Aurea 12 3. Walking, walking... 14 4. San Pietro in Vincoli 18 5. Walking, walking... 21 6. San Martino ai Monti 26 7. Walking, walking... 29 8. The Trofei di Mario and the Porta Magica 33 9. Walking, walking... 36

Rome for you Information series on the City of Rome

Produced by:: Cosmofilm spa - Elio de Rosa editor Texts: Alberto Tagliaferri, Valerio Varriale (Cultural Association Mirabilia Urbis) Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, the “Porta Magica” (Magic door) flanked by Editorial coordination: Emanuela Bosi statues of the Egyptian God Bes Graphics and page setting: Marco C. Mastrolorenzi Translation by: Teri Leigh VanLandingham and Stephen Geoffrey Wheeler The wheel of history Photography: D. Bianca: pages 32 bottom, 34 bottom; C. De Santis: pages 3, 9 left, 10, 11 bottom, 14, 15 top, 18, 21, 22, 23, 24, 29, 30, 31, 32 top, 33, 34 top, 35 bottom, 36, 37; A. Idini: page 35 top; A. Marchionne Gunter: page 20; P. Soriani: pages 2, 12, 13, 15 bottom, 16, 17, 25, 26, 27, 28; SSPMR: pages 9 The Oppian and Esquiline Hills right, 19; E. Vagni: page 38; Archivio Cosmofilm: page 11 top. Cover image, the so-called Trofei di Mario (Trophies of Marius) On this page, San Martino ai Monti, detail of the room with staircase leading underground T h e w h e e l o f h i Presentation s t o r y

alks in Rome are a series of itineraries for those wishing to further their knowledge of the city. Publications cove - Wring Rome’s great Renaissance period have already been made available - Caravaggio, Raphael, Michelangelo, and Baroque art as expressed in the architecture of Bernini and Borromini. Now further special walks have been drawn up to accompany and aid the visitor in their “step by step” discovery of our city.As such, the city is represented and “read” as a unique picture, a mosaic which comes together and dissolves according to the needs of the visitor. You can choose from monumental Rome (Via dei Fori Imperiali and the Colosseum), The Hill A nineteenth-century view of the Esquiline Hill by B. Pinelli of Poetry (the Aventine and its surroundings), Amid Woods and Aque - ducts (the Caelian Hill), The dawning of Christian Rome (San Giovanni in Laterano and Santa Croce in Gerusalemme), The Suburra (the neigh - bourhood of Monti and Santa Maria Maggiore), and A Virtual Film Set (Via Veneto and Surroundings).It has been daunting enterprise but a fulfilling one that has succeeded in simply conveying an image of the city’s traditions and cultural identity, whilst being at the same time scientifically accurate. The narration uses both a graphic approach and text, which is an effective system for conveying an understanding of Rome’s vast and unbelievable history. Our guides allows tourists to immediately identify the main significance of their chosen walk and at the same time orientate themselves in the area they wish to visit.These carefully selected walking guides serve well as a symbolic “artist’s sket - chbook,” providing the visitor with a large window display, full of mir - rors, inside of which there is a cultural horizon that could not be more Roman, evocative or abundant in enduring values.

Rome awaits you!

The Tourist Office of the Rome Municipal Council

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4. San Pietro in Vincoli h i s t o r y

he San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains) basilica is located on the modernising efforts of 1475. The portico Fagutalis, one of the three summits of the Esquiline. The basilica is was attributed to Vasari and Baccio Pontelli, Talso known as the Basilica Eudoxiana in memory of Eudoxia, the but it is currently considered to be the work wife of Emperor Theodosius I. Eudoxia sent the chains that had bound St. of Meo del Caprino. The della Rovere family Peter when he was imprisonedi n Palestine to her daughter in Rome, a coat of arms appears on the capitals of the consort of Valentinian II. The chains were then presented to Pope Leo the pillars, while the portico is enclosed with an Great who witnessed them miraculously fuse together with those that early eighteenth-century railing adorned were held in Rome as relics of the prince of the apostles’ imprisonment in with the coat of arms of Clement XI of the the Mamertine Prison. The church was built during the early decades of Albani family. The main entrance to the basilica is a part of the renovations of Sixtus the fifth century under the papacy of Sixtus II. Twentieth-century exca - The interior vations have alowed for the identification of the remains of the pre - IV, della Rovere , and is surmounted by this ceding domus ecclesiae dating back to the important Ligurian family’s coat of arms. The the same artist. Further ahead in the right remaining images, the Madonna with third century. Around the middle of the sixth basilica’s interior has three apsidal naves divi - transept, there is the celebrated Mauso - Child , who is above the image of the pope, century, Pope Pelagius I had the relics of ded by twenty Doric marble columns , leum of Julius II , which was completed in is attributed to Scherano da Settignano, the Maccabei , the seven brothers who pro - most likely of Greek origin, placed on Ionic 1545 by Michelangelo with the assistance whereas the Prophet and Sybil that flank it moted the Jewish resistance against Helleni - bases that were created during the eigh - of his understudies. The mausoleum was are attributed to Raffaello da Montelupo. stic conquest, returned to the basilica. Their teenth century. The central nave features a built according to the desires of the della The success of this monument undoubtedly remains, which were discovered in a sar - lacunar ceiling based on a design by France - Rovere Pope, who had commissioned the rests entirely on the titanic force that is relea - cophagus during the excavations of 1876, sco Fontana, and is adorned with the 1706 Tuscan artist in 1505 to create a monument sed by the powerful image of Moses. He is are now preserved under the high altar fresco of the Miracle of the Chains by of grandiose proportion that was to be pla - depicted at the moment he descended from along with the urn of the chains of St. G.B. Parodi. The side aisles have cross vaul - ced inside St. Peter’s basilica directly below Mt. Sinai with the tablets containing the Ten Peter . The austere façade features five win - ted ceilings that date back to the renova - the dome and was to be adorned with forty Commandments and is enraged with the dows and an open portico of five straight tions of Pope Julius II. In the right aisle at the statues. However with the pope’s death and Jews, who have taken to worshiping the arches with octagonal pillars, as desired by first altar, there is a painting of St. Augusti - the election of Leo X of the Medici family, Golden Calf idol. Some of the uncompleted Sixtus IV (della Rovere) ne by “Guercino.” At the second altar, there the project was initially shelved and then masterpieces of Michelangelo, the so-called during the re- is a copy of the Domenichino Liberation of greatly re-dimensioned. In the end, after Prisoners , the chained slaves that were St. Peter and next to it, the monument to various mishaps that had Michelangelo designed to adorn the grand St. Peter’s Cardinal Girolamo Agucchi based on a speaking of a “tragedy of the sepulchre,” it sepulchre, ended up in Florence and at the design by was transferred to San Pietro in Vincoli. At Louvre. In the small chapel at the end of the the centre of the monument, there is the right aisle, there is the extremely vivid Santa celebrated Moses , actually created by Michelangelo in person between 1514 and 1516. Next to him in two niches, there are statues of the two biblical wives of Jacob, Rachel (left) and Leah (right), symbolising an idealistic life of faith and an active life and charity, respectively. These statues were sketched by Buonarroti and completed by Raffaello da Montelupo from 1542 to 45. The reclining Julius II statue is traditionally attributed to the scalpel of Maso del Bosco, 18 even though recent studies suggest signs of 19 San Pietro in Vincoli, façade Michelangelo’s own hand. Regarding the The counter-façade T h 8

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eturning to the also belonged to the f

Barbieri, who is known as the “Guercino.” image of St. Sebastian beseeching the end Piazza, note the Walking, Margani, but popular h i

The high altar features a canopy by Virginio of the plague, artwork which is attributed to s

toweron the tradition holds that t Vespignani, under which is the confession students of Antoniazzo Romano. Below it, R walking... o

right that is erroneou - Vannozza Cattanei, r

containing the reliquary of the chains. The there is the tomb of Antonio and Pietro y sly associated with the the mother of the chil - canopy features a fifteenth-century relief del Pollaiolo , with portraits of the two cele - Borgia family but in reality was dren of Pope Alexander VI depicting Scenes from the life of St. brated brothers and artists sculptured by Lui - the property of the Margani. The tower Borgia, lived here. Immediately to the Peter by Cristoforo Foppa, who is known as gi Capponi in 1498. Externally and to the left was built during the twelfth century, right of the palace, there is the convent the “Caradosso.” The crypt located under of the basilica, there is the considerable restructured during the fifteenth, and is of San Francesco da Paola, where a part the altar contains an early Christian sar - structure of the convent. The 1503 work by now part of the bell tower of the nearby of the Istituto Centrale del Restauro (Cen - cophagus containing the reliquary of the Giuliano da Sangallo is now incorporated church of San Francesco di Paola . Also on tral Restoration Institute) is housed. Maccabei. Moving to the left aisle, in the into the Faculty of Engineering complex. the right, there is an arch with a staircase Next is the façade of the church of San second altar, there is a very interesting The basilica’s cloister with its columns, Ionic below; these are the so-called steps of Francesco di Paola, the national church seventh-century mosaic that features St. capitals, and beautiful well is a work of art by the Borgia, which pass under an arch of of the Calabrese. San Francesco di Pao - Sebastian . He is usually depicted as a the same architect. In the same area, prior the palace of the same name. The la, a native of Calabria, was a Franciscan young nude pierced by arrows but in this to the construction of the cloister, there was pathway, currently known as via S. Fran - at the age of twelve. He lived in the fore - mosaic he is depicted as an older, bearded Cardinal Julius III Ciocchi del Monte’s resi - cesco di Paola , faithfully follows the sts of the Sila and at nineteen founded officer of the Imperial army, reflecting more dence. The future pope kept the Apollo Bel - Roman street vicus Sceleratus, which got the Order of the Minim for those who ancient Byzantine iconography. Next, there vedere statue, discovered in Anzio, here its name from a legendary event. Accor - respected the most rigorous traditions is an eighteenth-century monument to until moving it to the Vatican. Archaeologi - ding to tradition, Tullia, daughter of of the Saint of Assisi. His most celebra - Cardinal Cinzio Aldobrandini. In the first cal research under the floor of the basilica Servius the sixth king of Rome, actually ted miracle is his crossing of the Straits altar, there is the Deposition of the Cross , has identified the remains of a house with drove her chariot over her dead father’s of Messina by means of his cloak as a ves - attributed to Cristoforo Roncalli, who is multicoloured mosaics dating back to the body on this road. Descend the stairs to sel. The church and convent were esta - known as the “Pomarancio.” At the begin - second century BC. The sacristy has inlaid reach Piazza S. Francesco di Paola, whe - blished in 1623 based on a design by ning of the aisle, there is the burial monu - marble flooring which is believed to have re it is possible to admire the façade of Orazio Torrioni and it was enlarged in ment to Cardinal Nicola Cusano , perha - originated from the Baths of Trajan. the so-called Palace of the Borgia. The 1650 following a donation by Olimpia ps the greatest philosopher of the fifteenth façade features a Serlian (Palladian Aldobrandini Pamphilj. The façade has century. He was the author of the funda - architectural feature) over the arch and two orders. During the eighteenth cen - mental treatise La dotta ignoranza (On lear - the lower portion of a medieval tower tury, the lower order, partitioned into ned ignorance) and among the first to ima - on the left. At one time, this building three parts by Iconic pilasters with che - gine an unlimited universe devoid of a cen - tre. The monument’s bas-relief featuring an The Palace of the Borgia San Francesco di Paola image of the cardinal, an angel and St. Peter, is a work of art by Andrea Bregno. To the left of the entrance, there is a fresco depicting

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left and continue to consists of sixteen halls r the end of viale del Monte in which approximately y Oppio . The impressive Palazzo 26,000 objects are exhibited, Brancacciois located on the right. This making the collection one of the most is a monumental building created by the important in Europe. The museum is rich American family of Princess Mary divided into the following sections: Elisabeth Field Brancaccio. The family Ancient Near and Middle East, Tibet acquired the former convent of Santa and Nepal, China, Islamic Art and Maria della Purificazione ai Monti from Archaeology and India and Gandhara. the State and then hired architect Luca There are also collections relative to Carimini to adapt and transform it, a Japan, Korea and South-East Asia. Opo - project which ran from 1886 to 1912. site the palace, at the corner of the inter - The magnificent apartments were deco - section with via Mecenate is Teatro Bran- rated under the direction of painter caccio, which was built in 1916 and is still Francesco Gai, an exponent of the eclec - operating today. Cross over Largo Bran - tic style at the end of the nineteenth cen - caccio , and continue to the left on via tury. A part of the palace currently hosts Merulana . This street was made famous the Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale in the novel by Carlo Emilio ‘Gadda (National Museum for Oriental Art), Quer pasticciaccio brutto de via Merulana’ built in 1957 with collections acquired (That Awful Mess on Via Merulana). Conti - Detail of the room with the staircase leading to the underground chambers in an agreement between the Ministry nue straight until reaching the staircase of Public Education and the IsIAO (Ita - of the Church of Sant Alfonso de’ Liguo- tant works of art to be noted is the Ecstasy is the second altar with the painting of St. lian Institute for Africa and the Orient). ri.The church was built in 1859 on the of St. Carlo Borromeo by Filippo Gherar - Alberto Carmelitano , a 1575 work of art The museum, which had among its site of Villa Castani by George Wigley di, located to the right of the entrance, and by Girolamo Muziano. A successive fresco principal promoters the celebrated and was the first example of Gothic revival the tabernacle and candelabra , works of reconstructs the scene of the Council of scholar G. Tucci, exhibits material from in Rome. The interior has a central art by Francesco Belli on the high altar. Next St. Sylvester , in which the pope ordered Italian missions to the Orient as well as nave, two aisles and features a painted to the altar, there is access to the Baroque the burning of all books contrary to the objects which were donated, traded or panel dating back to the second half of crypt, a work by Filippo Gagliardi. The theological thoughts of the Catholic Chur - acquired from antique markets. The the fifteenth century depicting the crypt features alternating columns and pil - ch. At the first altar, there is a St. Angelo by lars, as well as stucco and statues of saints Pietro Testa. Finally, there is another fresco The Brancaccio Palace created by Paolo Naldini in 1655. Below the featuring the architectural features of the crypt, there is a ninth-century fresco with Interior of the basilica of San Giovanni Images of the saints and a bejewelled in Laterano prior to Borromini’s renova - Cross as well as an effigy of St. Sylvester tions. At the beginning of the aisle, there is in a sixth-century mosaic. In the right aisle a 1651 fresco by Jan Miel of San Cyril bap - at the first altar, there is Santa Maria Mad - tising a sultan . In the sacristy, there is a sil - dalena de’ Pazzi painted by Matteo Pic - ver votive lamp , a papal tiara attributed cione in 1647. At the second altar, there is to St. Sylvester, and a bishop’s mitre. the Ecstasy of Santa Teresa di Gesù by Giovanni Greppi, and at the third, an eigh - teenth-century St. Martin by Fabrizio Chiari. In the left aisle, there is a fresco depicting the Interior of St. Peter’s basili - ca painted by Gagliardi, and then a seven - 28 teenth-century Landscape of the Roman 29 Campagna by Gaspare Dughet. Following 30 Walk 8 t t f e lu D b st a r nu a t S M S M he he or he igh t nci en nc ien nd a a a r ue m a a ck t n n uc t ing a S d d ma rbl n st Th t t of (ma rket) a t i i

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ys ) 5 7 1 g. 70 ) - 8 Tourists Information Points (PITs)

AIRPORTS • Ciampino “G. B. Pastine” Airport of Rome International Arrivals - b aggage claim area Daily 9:00am / 6:30pm

• Fiumicino Leonardo Da Vin ci Airport International Arrivals - Terminal T3 Daily 8:00am / 7:30pm

Daily 9:30am / 7:00pm • Castel Sant’Angelo Lungotevere Vaticano - (Piazza Pia) • Minghetti Via Marco Minghetti - (corner of Via del Corso) • Fori Visitor Center, Via dei Fori Imperiali • Leopardi at the Tourism Department of Rome Capital Via Leopardi, 24 - from monday to friday • Ostia Lido Lungomare Paolo Toscanelli - (corner of Piazza Anco Marzio) from May to September • Tiburtina Tiburtina Train Station - next opening

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Roma Capitale - Turismo Via Leopardi, 24 – 00185 Roma Call Centre Tourism Office tel +39 06 06 08 (daily 9:00am / 7:30pm) Switchboard Rome Municipal Council tel +39 06 06 06 www.comune.roma.it www.turismoroma.it [email protected]