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14 Marketing Team Nepal APR 19-25, 2004 Market pundits say VOL. 1, NO. 1 consistent display of WEEKLY quality is the key to attracting bigger crowds. 22 Ominous Rumbles There are signs that the Indian position against the Maoists is harden- ing. And it’s as much due to the alleged Maoists attacks against Indian vehicles and nationals in Nepal, as it’s due to India’s growing realization that the Maoists can be a serious trans- boundary menace. 24 Hushed Expectations The King appealed to all parties to help organize elections. His lofty ideas, however, don’t seem to impress political heavyweights. 26 Song of Cover Story Sovereignty By Swarnim Waglé 16 14 Years Later In this day and age, why should we be beholden to norms, institutions, and Party protests aren’t getting anywhere but that doesn’t symbols in our statecraft in a manner mean people are happy with the status quo. The sooner the that gives the impression that what we are holding on to, if let gone, would King and parties make peace, the better. violate all sanctity?

34 Anthropology and Columns Development Art & Society 9 Rebels With a Cause By Sondra L. Hausner 28 Phalano By Amanda Snellinger Together, anthropology and The Everyman: For readers tired of the In Nepal, vandalism is physical evidence development might be able to break out same old write ups in the papers of what the current government ignores: of their isolated states, and actually help everyday, K.C.’s flashes of insight into the stalemated political situation and Nepal improve its social and economic the Nepali ethos provide both a lack of justice. And it shows that people conditions. welcome break and a catharsis: they are not currently interested in the state, offer a glimpse of the way things are and or at least not in state property. for once people can laugh at the expense of the high and mighty. 32 When Rights Departments 30 The Sky in his Eyes Go Wrong 6 LETTERS By Jogendra Ghimire By Sanjeev Uprety Human rights advocates put the 10 PICTURE OF THE WEEK For Buddhi Thapa the entire universe is security forces and the insurgents on 12 NEWS a play of vibrations; energies that pervade not only solar systems and the same moral and legal plane; and 33 CITY PAGE though they blame both the parties, galaxies but also run through each leaf, they especially up the ante against the 35 BOOKS each blade of grass: a mystical motif that security forces. 36 KHULA MANCH forms the basis of his spiritual paintings. WITH MALICE TOWARDS NONE AND CHARITY TOWARDS ALL Nation Weekly, The Media House, Tripureshor, Kathmandu, Nepal (Regd. 113/059-060). Tel: 2111102, 4229825, 4261831, 4263098 fter five months of planning, we are finally hitting the EDITOR: Akhilesh Upadhyay [email protected] stands, with a certain degree of apprehension about our CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Suman Pradhan COPY EDITOR: Tiku Gauchan A market prospects but a great deal of excitement about how STAFF WRITERS: Sushma Joshi, Satish Jung Shahi PHOTOGRAPHER: Sagar Shrestha COVER PHOTOGRAPHER: Kishor Kayastha we are going to approach our news coverage. DESIGNER: Suresh Dhami Perhaps the question we have been asked most is: is it the right AD & CIRCULATION DIRECTOR: Krishna Shrestha [email protected] time to start a new venture, and a newsmagazine at that? We re- CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Nripendra Karmacharya ally don’t know. We have got into the business with the spirit of a SUBSCRIPTION: Ashish Bhattarai [email protected] venture capitalist. We are starting out with a five-member edito-

PUBLISHER: The Mirror Media Pvt. Ltd rial team but have set high standards for ourselves. We are a small

AD ENQUIRIES: Tel. 4229825, 4261831, 4263098 newsmagazine with an overwhelming purpose: to help our read- COLOR SEPARATION: ScanPro, Pulchowk, 5548861, 5552335 PRINTING: Variety Printing Press, 4278869 ers make sense of these extremely confusing times. We will try our best and let you decide whether our efforts have been good CONTACT enough. Nepal’s media market has become very crowded in recent

We prefer to receive letters via e-mail, without times. We are encouraged by the fact that scores of young people attachments. Writers should disclose any connection or relationship with the subject of their comments. have made journalism their full time career ever since Shyam All letters must include an address and daytime and evening phone numbers. We reserve the right to edit Goenka started Kantipur Publications in 1992, when just about letters for clarity and space. E-mail: [email protected] everybody dismissed his efforts to start a private media house as Fax: 4216281 Mail: Nation Weekly a bad business move. Kantipur defied all naysayers and went on The Media House, GPO 8975, EPC 5620 Tripureshor, Kathmandu, Nepal. to write its own history—perhaps the greatest success story of

SUBSCRIPTION post-1990 Corporate Nepal. In doing so it unknowingly served E-mail: [email protected] Nation Weekly, The Media House, GPO 8975 one huge purpose that Mr. Goenka may never have thought of: EPC 5620, Tripureshor, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: 2111102, 4229825, 4261831, 4263098 it pushed press freedom to a new height and secured the rights Fax: 4216281 for generations of journalists to come. And that has only come about the hard way. To be sure, Article 13 of the 1990 Constitu- tion guarantees press freedom, but that doesn’t mean a thing unless it is established through rigorous exercise. The Consti- tution has guaranteed a lot more, but you only have to look at subscription the mess around you to appreciate the remarkable development [email protected] of Nepal’s media. No matter what, we are firmly convinced that press freedom is 4229825 here to stay. And in similar vein to the spirit that defined the early years of Kantipur, we would like to think that good journalism is 4261831 also good business. As for the crowded media market, we say: Let 4263098 a thousand flowers bloom.

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hat are the legitimate forms of protest in a democracy? At present this is a valid question in Nepal. The Nepali people W have become familiar with techniques of public protest that

many different factions have exercised in the last 14 years. So as the chy, I would like to make the claim that the root cause can at least be students proceed in typical fashion, the public is not shocked, although dated to October 4, 2002. they may be slightly inconvenienced. Of these different forms of protest, Acts such as vandalism cannot be analyzed within a moral sensibility. the one that has fascinated me of late is the vandalism that the students It is neither right nor wrong but a reaction that tangibly signifies the are engaging in as an extreme-as well as extremely efficient-tactic. systematic flaws of society. In Nepal, vandalism is physical evidence of One may wonder, as I have, whose attention they are vying for. How what the current government ignores: the stalemated political situation does destroying public property further their cause? And on a more and lack of justice. And it shows that people are not currently invested in abstract level, what does this all symbolize? I am surprised to find that the state, or at least not in state property. These sorts of self-destructive students don’t expect to gain the current government’s attention with protests happen all over the world. these displays. I had it explained to me in cynical fashion by a student Thinking about this within my own national context, I am reminded of leader that the current government’s actions are so shameless that the littering and high crime rates in low-income neighborhoods in cities like such forms of protest don’t even faze them, much less move them New York. Many people have not been given reason to trust the state; they toward restoring democracy. are jaded by a history in which their voices were suppressed. So rather The government does not listen even if thousands come into the than participate in a legitimate democratic process that was set up for street; they certainly won’t listen to the smashing of bricks and glass, or them to air their frustrations, these frustrations manifest in counterproduc- smell the burning of tires tive ways that reduce the and effigies. But the quality of life in their com- people hear it, smell it, munity. and reroute themselves Currently in Nepal to avoid airborne bricks people don’t even have a and raised lathis. democratic system in What does the public which to dispute the politi- think of such exhibitions of cal situation legitimately, force? Well, for every ve- so vandalism comes as no hicle destroyed, a new surprise. one must replace it, and At least here, it is not during the replacement directed at the private citi- process, the politicians zens but rather targets the have a new opportunity to source of the frustration: swindle the public through the state. These state ve- their corrupting, non-trans- hicles represent a history parent practices. It also reemphasizes that security is a faint memory with of corruption, first by the Panchas, then by the political parties, and a dubious future, both inside and outside the Valley. now, again, by the Pancha leaders. The students understand this fact and they realize that they lose The students are the new generation and their acts of semantic and legitimacy in the eyes of the people by carrying on as hoodlums, yet physical destruction are more than just a testament to their rage—they they continue. As a student leader admitted this to me, he swiftly are opening up a new space in which they can publicly criticize the countered his own analysis by claiming that the students’ acts are not current government, which may lead to change. Perhaps the destruc- unsolicited—the police brutality began the cycle of destruction. This tion of a faulty government’s vehicles today will be the destruction of state violence laid fertile ground for the environment of student van- those faults tomorrow. And those who are responsible for destruction dalism. From this perspective, vandalism can be contextualized within today may be responsible for creation tomorrow. Unfortunately, there is an all too common trend in Nepal: at each display of power, the other no one who has enough legitimacy in Nepal to manufacture any con- side ups the ante. sent in favour of or against the students, so the non-political public will I have also heard the justification that if the current government does continue to be passively cynical until something much larger than van- not follow the law, then why should the students? They should not be dalism happens. held accountable to a legal system that was rendered futile by a series (Snellinger, a Ph.D. student from Cornell University, specializes in of unconstitutional acts. So if Nepal falls into a state of complete anar- Nepali student politics.) NATION WEEKLY | APRIL 19-25, 2004 9 Picture of the Week

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will be picked in a lucky that the airline owns, one draw every month. There has been grounded for are 10 VAT collection routine maintenance and booths in Kathmandu and will remain off-duty for others will soon be set up in two months at least. RNAC Birgunj, Biratnagar and currently flies to 10 Pokhara. VAT revenue destinations in seven currently makes up 2.9 countries. percent of the country’s GDP. Easter crackdown Protest politics duced before the court on Easter revelers in It has been over two weeks April 22. Mission Nepal Telecom Tundikhel had their since the revamped and The state owned Nepal celebrations cut short when increasingly violent new Nepal on top Telecommunication Samuel Sodemba and Isu round of the five-party Nepali youngsters success- Corporation has opened Jung Karki, both members protests started—supported fully defended their title at itself to private investments of the Easter festival by unions representing the recently concluded 2nd and turned into a company. organizing committee, everyone from journalists, AFC Under-14 Football It will now be called Nepal were arrested from Khula human rights activists, Festival held at Dashrath Telecom. The company Manch. The police say that teachers and even the RPP Rangashala. With a total of plans to float shares that the revelers broke the and Maoist supremo 183.86 points Nepal general public can buy. The government’s ordinance of Prachanda. The NC remained a comfortable company will also reorga- disallowing gatherings in (Democratic) led by Sher 51.42 points ahead of their nize its management, riot-prone zones while the Bahadur Deuba is the latest closest rival, India, at the provide added incentives to revelers say that the police addition to the ongoing stir tournament’s end. In their its employees and upgrade had given them the go- although the Nepali last match Nepal held India its communications ahead to congregate at Congress does not want the to a 1-1 draw. The football technology. Tundikhel. splinter party to join them festival featured six nations: on the streets. Meanwhile, Nepal, India, Pakistan, Army’s new spokesman Manisha miffed the Home Ministry has Bhutan, Uzbekistan and The Army has brought in Actress Manisha Koirala, declared key areas off-limits Turkmenistan. Brigadier General Rajendra who was in the capital last to public gathering. Even Thapa to head its public week to participate in a King Gyanendra’s return relations department. Col. walkathon organized by the from Pokhara and his New Deepak Gurung, who Rotary Clubs of Nepal, Year’s Day request to parties headed the department voiced her reservations over to commit themselves to earlier, will now assist the party protests. She said elections haven’t changed Brigadier Thapa. Thapa is things. also a renowned song writer whose compositions have Baidhya’s Indian links been sung by such famous Mohan Baidhya, the Maoist singers as Narayan Gopal leader arrested in India on and Aruna Lama. March 29, says that the Maoists have a working RNAC’s woes relationship with the VAT lottery Royal Nepal Airlines Kamatapur Liberation To encourage consumers to Corporation has cut down Organization, a rebel outfit demand VAT bills and its international flights after active in Assam and West businesses to register with the corporation’s plans to Bengal. The KLO is fighting the VAT office, the govern- lease a replacement aircraft to carve out a separate ment has decided to extend for one of its Boeing 757’s Kamtapur State comprising their VAT lottery scheme failed. Of the two big jets six districts in West Bengal across the country. The and four districts in Assam. earlier scheme, run within that she supports the King’s Baidhya, reportedly the the Kathmandu Valley, has call for elections. Koirala, second in command after been in place since January. however, bemoaned the Prachanda in the Maoists Customers can now win up police’s manhandling of her ranks, was arrested in to Rs. 100,000 by submitting granduncle Girija Prasad Siliguri. He will be pro- their VAT bills. Winners Koirala.

12 APRIL 19-25, 2004 | NATION WEEKLY authorities last week said that the blacktopping of the 20-km road that leads to Sishdole, northwest of Kathmandu, is almost complete. Kathmandu and Lalitpur together generate at least 400 tons of garbage everyday.

Malinowski’s murky recall U.S. Ambassador Michael Mayor mania Malinowski has been Kathmandu’s Mayor Keshav recalled by the U.S. State per se but the way with the Embassy staff ” that Sthapit has made it into the Department some eight Malinowski ‘presented’ the had led to the recall. first short list of the “World months before his term U.S. stance in the current Mayor 2004” competition triangular conflict (between Press attack being held by the web-portal the Maoists, parties and the Police arrested dozens of www.citymayors.com. Eleven King).” By the time we journalists on Thursday Mayors from 60 cities around went to the press, it was still before releasing most of the world were selected for unclear what had led to the them later in the day. Many the short list on the basis of a U.S. envoy’s unceremoni- of those arrested were senior web-based survey. Sthapit is ous recall. A diplomat told journalists associated with ranked seventh among the 11 Nation Weekly, the friction Kantipur Publications and mayors picked so far. Sthapit, between Kathmandu-based Kanitpur TV. Most of them who is known as Demolition European missions, who were arrested at Bhirkuti Man among his critics for envision a bigger role for Mandap, Bhotahity and razing settlements to clear political parties, and the Bagbazaar where they were space for building projects U.S. Ambassador who covering the street protests. and road constructions, could expires later this year. The thinks otherwise was “an Taranath Dahal, president of certainly use the positive spin. Kathmandu Post, which open secret.” He said he the Federation of Nepalese broke the news last week, wasn’t sure whether it was Journalists, has called the Army’s new spokesman said the recall “has nothing “the Ambassador’s hawkish incident “a naked assault on The Army has brought in to do with the U.S. policy policies or his abrasive ways press freedom.” Brigadier General Rajendra Thapa to head its public relations department. Col. Deepak Gurung, who was the Army’s spokesman earlier, will now assist Brigadier Thapa. Thapa is renowned for his song-writing skills and his compositions have been sung by such famous singers as Narayan Gopal and Aruna Lama.

City’s new dump In the next four months garbage from Kathmandu and Lalitpur municipalities will probably get hauled all the way to Sishdole in Nuwakot. Sishdole is only a temporary site and will be in use until the slated permanent site at Okharpauwa becomes BACK TO SCHOOL: With the new functional. Kathmandu city school session starting last week parents had their work cut out NATION WEEKLY | APRIL 19-25, 2004 13 Special Report

ger the imagination of the youth.” Not all the national leagues around the world can match English Premier League in skills and yet many of them have a size- MARKETING able fan base. Consistent display of quality and competitive football is the key to attract bigger crowds. Market pundits say the spectators will head back to the stadi- TEAM NEPAL ums once Nepali footballers start excel- ling in the international circuit. Look at the way the Koreans and Japanese now Nepal’s national team finished sixth in Pakistan, their follow their national teams. There was so much hope in 1999 worst showing in SAF Games, but football boss Ganesh when Nepal hosted the 8th South Asian Thapa insists our younger footballers are the best in the Federation (SAF) Games. Tens of thou- sands of Nepalis—many of them hardly region. Still, like any other football fan, he rues about regular football fans—turned up to cheer Nepal’s empty stadiums the home team. But fans will faithfully fol- low a losing team for only so long. Nepal’s national side must admit that they have BY SHARAN MARAHATTA been famously inconsistent. No one ex- ne person who never tires of talk pects them to beat South Korea, Oman, or ing football is Ganesh Thapa, Vietnam in the Olympic qualifiers, but O perhaps Nepal’s most prolific how do you keep fans excited over a team goal-scorer ever and now the president that fails to put up a decent fight once in a of All Nepal Football Association. while? How does one justify Nepal’s pa- As the chief football overseer in the thetic performance in the South Asian Foot- country, give the ace striker credit again ball Federation (SAFF) Championship just for netting some golden goals. None concluded in Pakistan? Nepal couldn’t more promising than the world govern- post a single win. ing body FIFA-funded Goal Project, Thapa, who has quite a reputation in which is also supported by local spon- the sports circle for taking active sors. If all goes well, the million-dollar (meddlesome, according to some) in- pilot project will help set up football acad- terest in every single thing that’s associ- emies in 30 districts in Nepal to train 1,000 ated with the country’s football, almost young booters—easily the most ambi- to attract the football-crazy crowd one swears that he is not sitting idle. tious football program ever undertaken took for granted 20 years ago. Clearly, “We are deeply troubled ourselves over in the country to tap budding talents. the clubs have lost their fan base. our performance in Pakistan. Overall, our All this may suggest that the future of For the world’s number one specta- football is certainly better than the rest,” the country’s number one spectator sport tor sport, Nepal’s near-empty stadiums he says, “except maybe India’s.” To make (though it seems that cricket will soon are an undeserved sorry sight. There his point, he offers Nepal’s standing in age- bump football out of the pedestal) is se- must be a way out here. group competitions. Our Under-19 team cure. But these exciting developments Many insist that the ANFA should is not only ranked among the top 16 in Asia mask a number of ills that plague the be accorded a high priority to ensure (out of 45), it’s the only team from the South game. And no one is more keen to dis- quality participation. Others suggest a Asian region to qualify for the 2004 Un- cuss them than Thapa himself. media-savvy approach to market the der-20 finals. Likewise, the Under-14 boys “Looking back, it is difficult not to game. are the best in the region as evidenced by feel a huge sense of loss,” says Thapa, “Soccer enthusiasts who are getting Nepal’s performance in the six-nation recalling his own glory days as a used to viewing top-class fares on TV in Football Festival that concluded in footballer. “Even a league match used to the comfort of their couch don’t want Kathmandu last week . have packed galleries in the 1980s.” to take the trouble of going to the sta- “Still, to arrest the decline of the se- Barring a few games, football dium to watch low-grade matches,” says nior side, we have increased the number matches even in the capital are now Mukunda Dahal, a journalist who has of tournaments, including Nepal’s par- watched by small crowds. The final been covering sport events for more than ticipation in international matches,” says rounds of the Khukuri Cup, with the a decade. “Tournaments with big outfits Thapa. “We plan to qualify for the Un- country’s 20 best teams vying for the top not only attract spectators but the exem- der-17 World Cup in five to six years. slot and Rs 200,000 in prize money failed plary skills put in by the players also trig- That’s our overarching vision.”

14 APRIL 19-25, 2004 | NATION WEEKLY Nepal’s football team at SAF Games Year Event Position 1984 1st Games 1 1985 2nd Games 2 1987 3rd Games 4 1989 4th Games 4 1991 5th Games 4 1993 6th Games 1 1995 7th Games 4 1999 8th Games 2 HARIYO BIRUWA KO CHILLO PAAT: The 2004 9th Games 6 ANFA academy catches budding talents when they are young and the grooming seems to be paying dividends.

vision side Kathmandu Club which rou- Consistent display of quality and tinely loses its promising players to richer clubs like Three Star, RCT and MMC. competitive football is the key to The key here is giving the game a attract bigger crowds. higher profile and corporate houses could play a vital role towards that end. Any market analysts will tell you The number of tournaments has in- To further bolster the league struc- football’s future in Nepal hinges as creased. The Martyrs Memorial Tour- ture, there are other strategies: the much on good marketing off the field nament (Nepal’s longest running league) ANFA could work out a system that is as it does on the team’s on-field perfor- finally seems to be running on track. The widely practiced in most football-play- mance. It’s not just his skills that have Khukuri Cup has become a regular fix- ing countries—allocate a certain per- made Sachin Tendulkar an icon in In- ture and a number of other tournaments centage of tickets to participating clubs dia. An extremely well-oiled corporate are being held outside Kathmandu. But in the leagues, instead of providing machine has gone behind the branding many feel that numbers alone don’t guar- them with limited cash incentives. of Team India. antee good football. The key is to trans- Each of the 12 premier division clubs “ANFA has to take an imaginative step, late ANFA’s high-pitched ambitions to in the Martyr’s Memorial League, for taking a cue out of the success achieved reality. But where does one begin? example, gets Rs 50,000 from the by other countries,” says Tashi Ghale, “ANFA should come up with a ANFA for preparations each season. who once served as vice-president for double-leg football league if we are to Many find the current league a lack- the ANFA. “You don’t have to go too far climb up the international ladder,” says a luster affair with a handful of clubs fight- to see changes. Just look at the strides former Nepal international footballer, ing for a title and others as mere also- made by Maldives over the years.” who has played professional league in rans. “It requires a complete restructur- The tiny island-nation, with a popu- Bangladesh and India. Such a league has ing—from regulation on players’ transfer lation of just over 300,000 introduced a already been endorsed by the Asian Foot- to providing incentives to smaller clubs semi-professional league a few years ball Confederation (AFC) and the Fed- in order to make the competition excit- back. The result is all-evident: Maldives eration of International Football Asso- ing for the paying public,” remarks is ranked 27 slots above Nepal’s 169 in ciation (FIFA). Sanjeev Mishra, president of the first di- the FIFA rankings.

NATION WEEKLY | APRIL 19-25, 2004 15 Cover Story

Party protests aren’t getting any- where but that doesn’t mean people are happy with the status quo. The sooner the King and parties make peace, the better.

BY SUMAN PRADHAN f you read mainstream newspapers and listen to private FM stations, the five-party anti- Igovernment demonstrations may seem like they are growing with each passing day. Scream- ing headlines tell you about the thousands of pro- testors marching in Kathmandu demanding res- toration of a representative government. And ac- companying news photos show demonstrators being beaten up and hauled into police trucks, testimony to the highhandedness of an undemo- cratic regime. And yet, strangely, what is portrayed in the newspapers is far removed from what’s happen- ing on the streets. Except for the area around Bagbazaar in the heart of Kathmandu, the mass of demonstrators fighting to roll back “regres- sion” in recent days are nowhere to be seen in other parts of the city. Most Kathmanduites seem snug in their daily lives, living a routine that is cut off from the protests and rioting in and around Bagbazaar. Frequent bandas and a never- ending series of street protests—they only lasted for two months in 1990—seem to have satiated the public appetite for mass demonstrations. If the five parties—Nepali Congress, CPN(UML), Nepal Sadbhavana Party (Anandi Devi), Nepal Majdoor Kisan Party and Jana Marcha Nepal—had hoped that these protests would balloon into a mass uprising of the sorts witnessed in 1990, they must be clearly disap- pointed. Since the first few days of April, when YEARSYEARS 14 LATERLATER 16 APRIL 19-25, 2004 | NATION WEEKLY NATION WEEKLY | APRIL 19-25, 2004 17 Cover Story

the turnout was in the tens of thousands, demonstrators tried to smash through excessive force. When protestors pelted the number of demonstrators around the security perimeters and march to- bricks and stones from Padma Kanya Ratna Park has gone down considerably. wards the Royal Palace and Singha Campus, a senior Valley Police officer And those who are there are almost in- Durbar, only to invite stern police ac- was heard saying, “Don’t throw the variably party activists, not the common tion. Demonstrators were brutally stones back. You are policemen. Show citizens the parties had hoped to excite. beaten and tear gas shells and rubber restraint and professionalism.” “There seems to be a disconnect from bullets were fired indiscriminately into Despite stray incidents, the security what’s being reported in the newspapers crowds. Protestors resorted to pelting forces so far have by and large shown and what’s happening on the streets,” says stones at the police and vandalizing cars remarkable restraint, although the arrest Angie Krysiak, an anthropology student and motorcycles. So far more than 1,000 Thursday in the capital of dozens of jour- from the University of Wisconsin who protestors and dozens of policemen have nalists covering the protest could mark has closely followed the protests. “The been injured, some seriously. More than a turning point. newspapers definitely seem to be exag- 5,000 protestors have also been arrested. The Home Ministry has declared key gerating the movement.” The joining in of civil-society groups areas off-limits to public gatherings in a It wasn’t supposed to be this way. like the lawyers, journalists and teachers bid to pre-empt angry mass protests. The year-old five-party protests gath- in the movement, did make it seem like Home Minister Kamal Thapa justifies it ered steam when the current round of the ranks were about to grow bigger and as an attempt to check Maoist infiltra- demonstrations took off with a bang on stronger. tion into the movement. The strategy has April 1. For a few days, the parties man- But that hasn’t happened yet. Even worked so far: demonstrators are find- aged to amass a sea of humanity in the the planned “huge” demonstrations by ing it increasingly difficult to gather at heart of the capital, protesting King the five parties on April 15 fell flat. The one single place. Gyanendra’s seizure of political power reasons could be many, but a couple of The second, and a more important in October 2002 and demanding the for- them stand out. reason, is symbolic. It’s been 14 years mation of an all-party government. Some First, after the initial bungling, the since the 1990 Jana Andolan was suc- of these demonstrators came from as far government changed tactics, ordering cessfully launched against the hated away as Dhanusha, Jhapa and Gulmi. police to show restraint in the face of Panchayat. Most Nepalis do support On some days, like on April 2, 3 and protests. Senior officers could be heard democracy, all right, but years of po- 4, the protests turned violent. Surging yelling at their subordinates not to use litical instability and an imperfect era

COURTING ARREST: Police take UML leader K P Oli in custody

18 APRIL 19-25, 2004 | NATION WEEKLY of multi-party democracy has made them wary of the leaders. There is no longer 30 years of pent up Consider just how changed the situ- public frustrations to fuel a popular ation is today. It is no longer a docile King Birendra who reigns from movement. If anything, many Nepalis Narayanhity. There is no longer 30 years of pent up public frustrations to fuel a are still angry at the party leaders for popular movement. If anything, many Nepalis are still angry at the party lead- not delivering the goods. ers for not delivering the goods. The international scene has changed, too. While in 1990 new democracies were no single political personality the dem- Without public participation in the sprouting all over the world as the Cold onstrators can rally around. Almost all demonstrations, the parties are finding War came to an end, today, the “global the leaders have either lost their stature, it difficult to sustain the movement. fight against terrorism” means Nepal’s or just don’t have any stature to inspire Does the situation call for a new strat- democratic struggle is seen as a side bar the common man.” egy? Isn’t the movement against “regres- to its larger fight for survival against the All this means the current anti-gov- sion” too vague a goal for an apathetic Maoists. ernment protests is being seen not as public? an agitation to restore democracy, but “We will continue the protests until he biggest difference is that the anti- as a movement led by the same old cor- regression is defeated,” says Madhav T Panchayat demonstrations were not rupt politicians jostling for power. “I Nepal, general secretary of the CPN split between the parties and the Maoists, could have easily joined the movement, (UML). “We are certain that more and as it is now. And there is no charismatic but I ask, what purpose will that serve,” more people will join the movement.” leadership to whip the crowd. Leaders says Rajesh Shrestha, a shopkeeper in While the movement does seem to like Ganesh Man Singh and Madan Lazimpat who was active in the 1990 be fizzling out now, the potential for a Bhandari, who became icons of the 1990 movement. “I don’t want to be sup- rebound is still strong, especially if the Movement, are nowhere to be found porting the same politicians who made government miscalculates. The use of today. As one observer puts it, “There is this country such a mess.” pro-government groups and plain-

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BOOMERANG: Bagbazaar businessmen protest against the party protests

“All the constitutional forces must work any in the future,” asserts Dr Ram Sharan Mahat, a senior leader of the together to bring the country back on Nepali Congress. Meanwhile, the target of the agita- track. No matter how much the parties tion, King Gyanendra, has followed a smart strategy. After waiting out much are hated, they do represent a large of the protests touring insurgency-hit section of Nepali society.” Western districts from his base in Pokhara, the King, since his return to the capital on April 10, has continued to ig- clothes policemen to disrupt the pro- But since the movement is not nore the protests. He pointedly failed to tests in the initial days almost led to an gathering steam, the parties could even mention the demonstrations in his explosion. And the recent move by the become desperate. The Maoists, the customary New Year Message on Home Ministry to isolate and prosecute wildcard in the ongoing political Baisakh 1 (April 13). Jana Morcha Nepal’s leaders and activ- struggle, have already positioned But the King could also be mis- ists could lead to a popular backlash. themselves to take advantage of the reading the nation’s mood—just as the Some analysts believe that instead of parties’ frustrations by actively court- parties are doing. The people may not waiting for the government to make mis- ing them in their fight for republi- trust the parties and their agitation, but takes, the parties could help themselves can goals. The parties are understand- they don’t necessarily view the mon- by instituting some drastic changes in ably wary of the rebels whose par- archy in a favorable light. The sooner their message and the messengers. But ticipation in the movement could the Palace realizes this and makes peace that is probably asking for too much. give the government a pretext to use with the parties, the better it is for the “It is unrealistic to expect the parties overwhelming force. Hence the or- country. to change leadership in the midst of a der that went out from the party lead- “In the end, all the constitutional larger fight against the monarchy,” says ership to ensure that the demonstra- forces must work together to bring the Krishna Hachhethu, a political analyst tions remain peaceful during the country back on track,” says a diplomat. associated with the Centre for Nepal and three days of the Maoist-called Nepal “No matter how much the parties are Asian Studies. “They will first need to banda on April 6, 7 and 8. “We do not hated, they do represent a large section win back power before attempting in- have any common platform with the of Nepali society, and it would be wise ternal reforms.” Maoists and we don’t plan on having to get them on board.”

NATION WEEKLY | APRIL 19-25, 2004 21 Neighbors

with India’s rebel outfit, the Kamtapur Liberation Organization (KLO) to wage terror in India’s West Bengal and Assam, according to the Indian newspaper Tele- OMINOUS graph. The news of Nepali Maoists joining hands with Naxalite outfits in India, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka were reported as far back as 2001 when they formed a RUMBLES unified organization, the Coordination Committee of Maoist Parties and Orga- BY SATISH JUNG SHAHI nizations (CCOMPOSA). The umbrella group then began to spread out through the People’s War Group (PWG), which started with the here are signs that the Indian position against the Naxalbari movement in West Bengal. Maoists is hardening. And it’s as much due to the The PWG is active in Andhra Pradesh, T Orissa, Chhattisgarh and Jharkhand. The alleged Maoists attacks against Indian vehicles and Maoist Communist Center (MCC),

nationals in Nepal, as it’s due to India’s growing realization that the Maoists can be a serious trans-boundary menace. On April 3, 18 Indian oil tankers were torched near the Nepal-India border in Dhangadi. A day later, Maoists set ablaze an Indian truck on the Siddhartha High- way. On April 5, the Maoists issued “Quit Nepal” notices to Indian businessmen based in Gularia, Bardiya. Many see these attacks on Indian prop- erty and nationals as retaliation against the arrest of Maoist politburo member Mohan Baidhya in Siliguri, West Bengal last month. Not surprisingly, the Indian External Affairs Ministry has reacted strongly and asked Nepal to prevent anti- India activities in its territory. On April 9, the Indian Home Minis- SPILLING THE BEANS: Maoist leader Mohan Baidhya PRIIZED INFORMATION: Maoists turncoats has admitted that there is trans-boundary reveal that Indian guerillas have trained ter and Deputy Prime Minister Lal cooperation among Maoists them Krishna Advani during his election speech in Jharkhand raised concerns over the Less than a week later, he made similar also a part of CCOMPOSA, is active possibility of unified attempts by Nepali comments in Orissa, adding that India across Bihar. and Indian Maoists to spread terror in the would take all measures necessary against Last October, Andhra Pradesh’s Chief region. “Following political instability in Nepali Maoists. Minister Chandrababu Naidu escaped a Nepal lately, Maoists of that country have There are reasons for New Delhi to landmine attack by the PWG. Like the radi- started trying to infiltrate into India to be nervous. Nepali Maoists are believed cal leftists in Nepal, the PWG has also de- increase Naxalite activities,” said Advani. to have forged a “working relationship” clared its own “Aadhar Chhetra” in Andhra Pradesh. And much like Nepali Maoists, the Indian rebels have started targeting se- On April 9, Lal Krishna Advani during curity forces and candidates for the general elections that begin this week. his election speech in Jharkhand On April 7, the rebels killed 26 po- raised concerns over the possibility of licemen in a Jharkhand landmine explo- sion, an attack reminiscent of Nepali unified attempts by Nepali and Indian Maoist tactics. Most recently, in a show of solidarity Nepali Maoists have called Maoists to spread terror in the region. for a poll boycott in India.

22 APRIL 19-25, 2004 | NATION WEEKLY counter, the Army for the first time got hold of an AK-47 rifle suspected to have been imported from the PWG. “As we moved further up the hills away from Beni, the locals told us some of the Maoists involved in the Beni attack were using language they could not understand,” says Bimal Chandra Sharma of INSEC who visited the scene days after the March 20 attack to prepare an on-site report for the human rights group. Nepal is most anxious to get its hands on two Maoist leaders who are currently in Indian custody—Baidhya in Siliguri and C. P. Gajurel in Chennai. Gajurel, who re- portedly heads the Maoists foreign rela- tions division, was arrested with a fake British passport at Chennai Airport while he was on his way to London last August. Two other Maoist central committee members, Matrika Yadav and Suresh Ale, were handed over in February. Gajurel remains in Indian custody facing charges. The court ruled out his handover after Gajurel insisted that his life was in danger in Nepal. “In Baidhya’s case, India has already gathered enough evidence that he had established contacts with the People’s War Group and other organizations de- clared terrorists by India,” observes Kantipur’s Jhapa-based reporter Chintamani Dahal, who has been travel- IT’S OFFICIAL: Indian Ambassador Shyam Sharan says there are links between ling across the border to Siliguri to fol- Moaists in India and Nepal low investigations on Baidhya. “His handover might be delayed for a while.” “The recent concerns raised by In- India’s response to such claims, until Baidhya is considered the main ideologue dia show that New Delhi is now tak- recently, has been routine: it was doing behind Prachandapath, the Maoist roadmap ing a harsher stand against the its best to curb the mobility of Nepali to republicanism. Many also see him as the Maoists,” says Shyam Shrestha, edi- Maoists in its territory but given the guru of Maoist chief Prachanda. Along with tor of Mulyankan monthly. “Obvi- country’s huge size and own share of se- Baburam Bhattarai, the three are said to con- ously, Indians are in no mood to al- curity concerns, it wasn’t always possible stitute the Maoist troika at the top. low Maoists a free lunch in their ter- to police the Maoists. Interestingly, New For their part, the Maoists have tried to ritory.” Delhi had declared the Maoists terror- give their own spin to Baidhya’s arrest, call- Many Nepalis always believed that ists even before Nepal outlawed them in ing the Indian action a part of a controver- a number of senior Maoist leaders November 2001. Indian envoy Shyam sial deal involving exchange of land and were taking refuge in India, at least Sharan has gone on record to claim time water between the “feudal lords” of Nepal intermittently, but it became public and again that Nepali Maoists have links and India. Both New Delhi and Kathmandu knowledge when CPN(UML) Gen- with Maoist groups in India, including have chosen to remain silent on the arrest, eral Secretary Madhav Kumar Nepal the Maoist Communist Centre (MCC) though Nepali authorities say they have ini- blew their cover. He publicly declared and the People’s War Group (PWG). tiated a legal process to extradite Baidhya that he had held a secret meeting with His thesis has been corroborated by but details are hard to come by. Maoist supremo Prachanda in former Maoist commanders. According Once the elections is over, New Delhi Lucknow last November. Earlier, to Jaya Bahadur Gharti, who surrendered is expected to take up the Maoist issue many people would either question to the security forces last July, Nepali with a renewed urgency. “It’s time too,” or dismiss claims in the media that Maoists received training from PWG and says Shrestha of Mulyankan magazine. similar meetings had taken place in MCC guerillas in 1998, 2000, and 2001 in “Otherwise, India would be seen as tak- Siliguri and Noida, near New Delhi. Rolpa. Last month during the Beni en- ing a double stand as in the past.”

NATION WEEKLY | APRIL 19-25, 2004 23 Pokhara

HUSHED EXPECTATIONS BY MAHESH PUN

t’s been a week since the Royal Couple left for To be sure, royalties have never been Kathmandu. And all the public attention has once again an uncommon sight in this city. The I Ratna Mandir Durbar, which stands on shifted back to the daily street protests in the the shore of Lake Fewa, bustles with routine royal visits. And it was here that capital. But it was quite an event extravagant abhinandan and the prob- poet Kshetra Pratap Adhikari composed while it lasted: for 17 long days the lems of Kathmandu seemed a world his famous line, “Chautarima Raja Western Region played host to an away. Bhetiyo” after spotting King Birendra

24 APRIL 19-25, 2004 | NATION WEEKLY The King appealed to all parties to help organize elections. His lofty ideas, however, don’t seem to impress political heavyweights.

ity in these times of globalization and Gurung, demanded that a zoological rapid economic development. park be set up in his city and that the These lofty ideas, however, don’t city’s main attraction, the Fewa Lake be seem to impress local political heavy- conserved. The District Development weights, who were expecting a clearer Committee President of Kaski, Ganesh commitment to an earlier timeframe for Man Gurung, rattled off his own list of the handover of executive powers. Most, demands: international airport in in fact, had called for the boycott of the Pokhara, upgrading of the Prithvi reception, the fourth since King Narayan Campus to a university, under- Gyanendra ascended the throne in June ground metro railway linking Pokhara 2001. And many did comply, though they with the capital, Kathmandu. remained glued to their TV sets even as Yet their core demand remained the thousands of school children and village same: a lasting peace, which would pave folks braved the midday heat (31 degree the way for economic and human de- Celsius) in the dusty stadium. velopment in the region famous for its “Let’s go home and watch TV in- ethnic diversity and natural beauty. For stead,” one woman was telling her friend their part, the Royal Couple did seem at Prithvi Chowk as a long procession to reciprocate the cry for peace when marched towards the stadium past the they released two pairs of pigeons, set- deep gorge of the Seti River. ting off cheers from those present at the “The nation is on fire and this King stadium. was having people felicitate him here,” “Everything will be alright once the says Rabindra Adhikari, local leader of monarch corrects his move (to wrest ex- the CPN(UML). Adds Nepali Con- ecutive powers),” says Nepali Congress gress (NC) lawmaker Shukra Raj leader Sharma. “After all, it was the King’s Sharma, “Yet another civic reception just ancestor, the Great King Prithvi Narayan under a tree, walking around like a com- while the nation is reeling. Here, people Shah who cared so much about his people.” moner. have no time to put coffin on corpses.” But at least in the eyes of political But even weeks before the current But the reception did inject some life, workers like NC’s Sharma, the King visit, Pokharelis knew this one would at least for a while. Take 72-year-old Som doesn’t seem overly concerned about be more than a casual out-of-the-town Bahadur Gurung, of Balkot village in “correcting” himself. So much was evi- trip for the Their Majesties. And so it remote Parbat district, for instance. He dent during his stay in Western Nepal. turned out. At a March 28 civic recep- had come to see the King and the Queen, Like his late father during these visits, tion, King Gyanendra announced elec- though it didn’t quite turn out that way. King Gyanendra, 57, was keen on reach- tions in an extremely volatile political The former policeman also brought with ing out to residents of villages and towns backdrop: a year and a half of non-repre- him some petition letters to pass on to across the region, including the people sentative government, a bloody insur- the King in the hope that his woes would of Beni, who had only a week ago wit- gency, and with the city’s own lifeline, be addressed. Gurung, who stands 5 feet nessed the worst carnage in nine years of the tourism industry, on the brink. He 3 inches and wears daura suruwal and “people’s war.” issued a salvo to political parties to seek topi, was just another poor villager in Many people here recollect what his a fresh mandate. the 20,000-strong crowd from 16 dis- brother King Birendra did after his “I appeal to all the concerned parties tricts, many of whom had been bused Pokhara visit in the spring of 1990. At the to help us organize elections in 2061 and trucked from across the region, de- height of the Jana Andolan, he consulted B.S.,” the King said in his address at the fying the Gandak region banda called by party leaders and the rest, as they say, is local stadium, as thousands converged the Maoists. history. The civic reception has been from nearby districts to see their new Interestingly, everybody present at momentous all right but the residents of King and Queen. He made a call to end the Pokhara stadium that sunny afternoon Pokhara are still hoping for a lasting peace. violence and terrorism so that the na- had a petition. The Mayor of Pokhara The street protests in Kathmandu, 200km tion could move in the path of prosper- Sub-Metropolitan City, Harka Bahadur away, are disturbing.

NATION WEEKLY | APRIL 19-25, 2004 25 Swarnim Waglé SONG OF SOVEREIGNTY

s one of the first Asian leaders to visit Victorian England Ain 1850, Jung Bahadur Rana, who became de facto emperor of the central Himalayas at the age of 29,

insisted that he be given a 19-gun salute Ram Mani Dixit, advisor to Chandra (higher than the 17 reserved for princes Shumsher, writes in his “Purana from the plains). A rare treatment not Samjhana” (from where this story is assured for all guests of England, this was taken) that he then recruited his poet next extended to his cousin Chandra who friend, Chakrapani Chalise to construct collected his honorary doctorate at Ox- Nepal’s own anthem. Like a dependent ford in 1908—a degree in Civil Law that Consultant, eager to please his benefac- was also given to Bill Clinton 87 years tors, Mr. Chalise enquired what “angle” later. Jung and Chandra, the notable of he needed to pursue for his composi- Rana rulers, kept this land unconquered tions. He was told they needed to be by sending as many hill men as neces- grand odes that felicitated the Shah King sary to fight the white man’s wars. And and his Rana Premier, “pure Ksetriyas in doing so, gave the British one good who ruled Nepal, home of the brave reason not to wage an expensive moun- Gorkha race.” An Indian gentleman from tain invasion. Rajasthan, M. A. Pathan, who was in town Technically, thus, we were never upon invitation by Chandra Shumsher colonized, but Nepal did not even have to serve as Nepal’s bandmaster, then put its own national anthem until music into Mr. Chalise’s words. Thus

We have come full circle. The cacophony of orchestrated felicitations of the King is growing.

Chandra’s final years. “God Save the was born the infamous “Shrimana King,” the English anthem, was played Gambhir”—a sycophantic mess that still in the “independent” kingdom. And it stands as our national anthem. would be played at the oddest of hours, The progressive drafters of the 1990 for random pomp and amusement, constitution thought they had reduced much to the inconvenience of the poor the King to his proper size. They thought British ambassador resident in so on the strength of Articles III (hint: Lainchour. He had to stand up, no mat- sovereignty lies in the people, not the ter what he was doing, whenever he monarch) and XXXV (hint: the monarch heard his native tune practiced in makes no mistake, for almost everything Tundikhel. In a sparsely populated, traf- he does is upon the advice and instruc- fic-free Kathmandu of the 1920s, much tion of the elected prime minister). The was seen and heard. drafters also thought reaching out fur-

26 APRIL 19-25, 2004 | NATION WEEKLY ther to reform the Army, reducing royal claims on the exchequer, and dismantling iconic rem- nants like the national anthem, would be an unnecessary stretch on their mandate. Justice Biswonath Upadhyaya was right to be benign, but not everyone was happy. The extreme left- ists that included today’s top Maoists wanted to go all the way. They even goaded their ally among drafters, Nirmal Lama, to break rank. In those chaste times, however, even the rebels were restrained. Thirteen years on, we have come full circle. The cacophony of orchestrated felicitations of the King is growing. In the remote district of Mustang early April, this columnist witnessed preparations for the King’s Jomsom felicitation. Marshalling every single resource of the poor state in the poor district, from the Army and the CDO’s office to the line ministries, ethnic lead- ership, and even airline agents, it was unclear how these costly tamashas could possibly gratify the King. In these events, the King routinely refers to the “glorious tradition of the Shah dy- nasty reigning in accord with the wishes of the people.” This desire to locate a glorious past that probably never existed is puzzling to stu- dents of history. Of the 10 Shah kings after the great Prithivi Narayan in 1775, hardly three made any lasting mark. There simply is no consistent record on past royal glory notable enough to be evoked to justify active royal roles today. The political parties have vowed to redress “political regression” definitively, especially the violation of the two articles cited earlier. And they should. But as custodian of state re- ligion, language, and armed forces, the House of Gorkha is in equal need of shedding its bag- gage of “cultural regression.” In this day and age, why should we be beholden to norms, institutions, and symbols in our statecraft in a manner that gives the impression that what we are holding on to, if let gone, would violate all sanctity? Instead of basking in the nostalgia of abso- lute authority, the institution of monarchy is always better off seeking new legitimacy through deeds and gestures that are social, not political. A harmless point to start would be to encourage the replacement of icons like the national anthem that have inglorious origins. It is after all an unusual song loaded with symbol- ism of where sovereignty rested in the yester- years. There is, of course, one more reason. The most striking adjective that describes the king in the anthem is “Prachanda.” And this has long been famously co-opted by a bearded man from Chitwan who is not exactly friendly to either the crown or his state.

NATION WEEKLY | APRIL 19-25, 2004 27 Art & Society

reports on death scores, politi- Phalano: cal intrigues and the shenani- gans of corrupt leaders hogging The Everyman newspages, readers don’t have much to look forward to. Yet BY TIKU GAUCHAN hope springs eternal and as ex- emplified by the man reading picture may speak a thousand the paper, people still look to words but cartoons sometimes the media for signs of redemp- A tion. say even more. Rajesh K.C., the cartoonist at Kantipur, has been churn- 4. Political speak: Politi- ing out ‘Gajab chha ba,” his single-panel cal figureheads have a knack funnies, for more than a decade now. for turning every event, even Last week, K.C. was honored by the catastrophes, into occasions Creative Communication and Re- for political gain. “Pidit” search Center, a media institute, for his grand designs—render a democratic ser- means anyone who’s been affected by some contribution to society through his car- vice. His cartoons afflict the comforted sort of setback. Much to the delight of min- toons. What are his contributions? For and comfort the afflicted. isters there are any number of pidit readers tired of the same old write ups people—victims of the ongoing war, vic- in the papers everyday, K.C.’s flashes of RAJESH K.C. ANNOTATED tims of natural disasters—whose cause the insight into the Nepali ethos provide (See Cartoon) politicians are more than happy to take up both a welcome break and a catharsis: 1. Phalano: The Nepali everyman. in order to further their own interests. they offer a glimpse of the way things are He’s a mute observer (notice his zipped 5.The caption: It ties together all the and for once people can laugh at the ex- lips) bewildered by the absurdities in elements that make up the panel and hits pense of the high and mighty. the country. In most panels he appears home the absurdity depicted: while the Just how does one come up with the to be excluded from the situation de- husband’s hoping for a windfall (the laugh lines so consistently? “I don’t re- picted, as if to imply the exclusion of the newspaper headline states that ministers ally know,” says K.C. “I keep abreast with common man from the political pro- will donate their 15-day earnings to pidit the politics and general happenings and cesses in Nepal’s “democracy.” people), his wife knows better. She from my readings I create a theme and 2. State of the nation: In tatters. points out that what the victims will get, play with that until I have the cartoon in 3. The press: Newspapers with axes if anything at all, is not the money that my mind. By the time I hit my work- to grind, yet working in a state that re- politicians actually make by way of desk at Kantipur in the evening, the car- stricts them, produce the strange con- bribes and shady deals but 15 days’ worth toon is well set and it’s time to work on coction that is Nepali news. And with of their government salary. the caption. I have to create a caption that everyone will understand and at the same time it has to pack that punch.” “Rajesh is essentially a funny guy,” says colleague and friend Bikash Rauniar, in an attempt to explain how K.C. creates his art. “He seems to have this knack for noticing the humor in everything. And when he’s talking to you his mind seems 1. to be constantly thinking about absurd 2. situations that will later appear on his panel.” 5. And all the pondering and planning definitely work in the end. K.C.’s car- toons pack a punch and the laughs they 3. generate prove his success. William Carlos Williams once wrote, “It’s diffi- 4. cult / to get the news from poems / yet men die miserable every day / for lack of what is found there.” And just like good poems are able to convey what the me- dia can’t, K.C.’s cartoons by giving voice to the everyman—the everyman who is above petty party politics and political 28 APRIL 19-25, 2004 | NATION WEEKLY

Art & Society

cellent view of the mountains and the skies. The Sky in “Art is not only my profession but also my only passion,” says Thapa. “I’d rather live and sleep by the side of foot- paths than work at anything else.” He his Eyes BY SANJEEV UPRETY speaks of his two major desires that re- main unfulfilled. The first is his dream of getting married. Thapa, 50, is wor- ried that time is running out, and he is uddhi Thapa’s exhibition of paint through Moktan’s connections that getting increasingly lonely as he gets ings at Nepal Art Council that con Thapa received a commission from the older. “Not only do I need to find a B Sikkim government’s Tourism De- woman who will match my age but the cluded last month presented three major themes that have haunted the art- partment in 1985 to draw ethnic por- ‘vibration’ between us needs to work,” ist for most of his career: ethnic por- traits. The next few years was a period he explains. For Thapa the entire uni- traits, depictions of Mother Nature, and of intense creative activity as Thapa verse, after all, is a play of vibrations; spiritual quest. Thapa says that his spiri- painted ethnic images that were suf- energies that pervade not only solar sys- tual paintings have their genesis in his fused with his own emotions and de- tems and galaxies but also run through childhood experiences of gazing at the sires. He also painted mandalas and the each leaf, each blade of grass: a mystical starry skies. Growing up in Nagaland as cosmic maps of the universe, trying to motif that forms the basis of his spiri- the son of a Nepali soldier in the Indian memorize the spiritual visions that tual paintings. army, Thapa used to spend countless sometimes overwhelm him as he gazes “My next major dream is to paint my hours gazing at the sky, wondering what at the open skies. spiritual visions upon large ten-by-ten lay behind its blue shell. In the late 70s, his love of art took him to the Government Art College in Calcutta from where he completed his BFA. Somehow surviving on an exceed- ingly low budget, Thapa read books and painted. He was completely broke by the time he acquired his degree. He lingered at the hostel for one more year before the authorities decided to expel him from their premises. On the night of December 24, 1983, as the hostel authorities were looking for him everywhere, he hid himself on the hostel roof and gazed at the sky all night. Midnight arrived and passed. Hungry and cold, Thapa still continued to stare at the skies. After 2 a.m., the po- sition of the constellations in the sky changed, and the entire starry map of the sky turned upside down. Buddhi con- tinued to gaze, however, wondering what had gone wrong with his career, why the map of his own life had turned upside Thapa has been coming to Nepal frames,” he continues. “But how can a down to leave him poor, lonely, and en- for solo exhibitions and other art re- poor artist like me hope to draw such tirely without prospects. lated work since 1985, and has also colossal paintings without someone The next day brought better luck. found a semi-permanent home at one sponsoring me? The walls of my studio As he was contemplating suicide near of the studios of the Nepal Associa- at NAFA are not large enough to hold the Hoogli River, Buddhi received a tion of Fine Arts at Naxal. Among all such big frames.” Thapa’s dreams are note from Mahendra Moktan, his one- other artists who have individual stu- very simple. He is not ambitious enough time friend from Sikkim who was also dios at NAFA, Thapa probably spends to crave grand worldly successes or a filmmaker. Moktan’s marriage was the most time in the building. He dili- make a big name for himself as a world foundering and he wanted Thapa to gently paints in his rooftop studio day famous painter. He wants to marry, raise paint a portrait of his wife in order to in and day out, by the side of an ex- a family and paint his art on large can- please her and revive his marriage. It is tended stone roof that provides an ex- vasses.

30 APRIL 19-25, 2004 | NATION WEEKLY

Jogendra Ghimire When Rights Go Wrong

he popular human rights discourse in Nepal has turned Tunacceptably simplistic. It begins with the assumption that the Maoists and the security forces stand on the same moral plane

and that both are equally justified—or not so justified—in whatever they or perceived enemies; and the degree and nature of human rights viola- are doing. This offers an easy exit to an extremely complex debate: civil tions that each can be held responsible to. Towards that end, there are society leaders start out with knee-jerk condemnations of the security a few questions that beg answers. forces and make sure that they also call upon the insurgents to respect First, is this a war that the Army initiated? Second, does the Army the rights of innocent civilians. Political correctness and the desire to have a well-thought out plan of action that encourages and condones sound “objective” presumably lead them into a framework of analysis killing, maiming and torturing of civilians, or even the armed insurgents? that doesn’t go beyond this routine. Is it possible that barring some cases, most civilian deaths attributed to When Maoists gunned down dozens of security personnel in Bhojpur the Army occurred not because of its excesses but despite its best and Myagdi, and took dozens others hostage for weeks, the response of efforts to minimize casualties? Third, is our notion of fair play really fair the civil society leaders was even more questionable. Few condemned to the security forces: can we put the cold-blooded killings of Krishna the attacks on the two district headquarters. More than anything else, Mohan Shrestha, Gopal Giri and Ganesh Chiluwal on the same plane didn’t the fundamental Maoist philosophy that condones violence need as the deaths in encounters? Fourth, if an international war crimes to be questioned outright? tribunal of some sort were to be established in Nepal, who is more likely To be fair to human rights advocates, it is understandable where their to be found guilty of crimes against humanity—the Maoist leadership framework of analysis and accusation comes from. The state has always or the Army? been treated as the principal violator of citizens’ rights. Human rights We may like to fudge the issue for as long as possible but from both organizations, many of whom have now become influential players in moral and legal standpoints the Maoists are on the wrong side of this international discourse, were debate—their claims as cham- founded in the background of, pions of the downtrodden not- and to raise voices against, dic- withstanding. There are quali- tatorships. They grew in stat- tative differences between the ure while opposing the regimes killings of the youth collecting of Augusto Pinochets and Pol donations on a national high- Pots. Their modus operandi: way at dawn, which was clearly shame states into behaving. based on false intelligence re- Nepal’s current state of affairs, ports, and the killings of a however, is rather complicated. former lawmaker or of Chiluwal First, how do you put a non- who came out vocally against state party—Maoists in this Maoist atrocities. This however case—on a leash? Is strict is not to condone rights viola- adherence to the classic hu- tions by the Army. In fact, re- man rights model the right way cent events have shown that to deal with issues of morality its human rights record as a re- and ethics? Does the clichéd sponsible institution leaves a lot state-centered human rights to be desired. My problems start advocacy allow us to assess, when human rights advocates analyze and understand the questions associated with human rights put the security forces and the insurgents on the same moral and legal abuses? Is it enough to merely call upon the insurgents to respect the plane; and though they blame both the parties, they especially up the rights of the citizens? Have we not reached the stage where even the ante against the security forces. non-state actors have to be told to adhere to international human rights Given the vicious cycle of violence, and the confusion among standards? Nepalis over allegations and counter-allegations of human rights A better appreciation of the human rights situation is possible if the abuses, it is important that human rights workers lead from the front civil society is willing to conduct a dispassionate analysis of the moral and by adding rigor to their treatment of the human rights debate. ethical foundations upon which the activities of the Royal Nepal Army (Ghimire is former Secretary of the National Human Rights Com- and the Maoist insurgents are based; the way they target their enemies mission)

32 APRIL 19-25, 2004 | NATION WEEKLY City Page STILL LIFE / STREET LIFE MOVIE LISTINGS

Siddhartha Art Gallery, “Still Life” is his recent work in colour Lazimpat Gallery Café Babermahal Revisited. with found objects. Together, the Admission: Free; Time: 7:00 p.m. An exhibition of photographs by photos portray two ways of seeing— For Information: 4428549 Wayne Amtzis. “Street Life” includes witnessing and expression. During the Wayne’s presentation of black and inauguration on April 15, Wayne read April 22: The Mexican white photos from the late 80s and “Bloodscript” from his series of poems In this romantic comedy Jerry Welbach early 90s depicting life in Kathmandu. based on the current situation in (Brad Pitt) needs to negotiate two Nepal. This is the 3rd exhibition by important events: his girlfriend Amtzis at the Gallery. Till May 3 Samantha (Julia Roberts) has dumped For information: 4414607. him and a mobster boss has ordered him to retrieve an antique pistol, “the OTHER Mexican,” which has seen a history of EXHIBITIONS: murders. A well-plotted entertaining Lazimpat Gallery Café ride all the way. “Samadhi: A journey through Sri Lanka” by Prakash Chandwadkar. Till April 20: The Man on the Moon April 26. For information: 4428549. Two-time Academy Award-winning director Milos Forman teams up with Lotus Gallery, Thamel Golden Globe winning screenwriters 3rd Annual Contemporary Art Exhibi- Scott Alexander and Larry Karaszewski tion by 8 Tibetan masters. Till April 25. in this movie on the life of enigmatic comedian Andy Kaufman. Jim Carrey New Orleans Café, Thamel is in his element portraying the antics New temple wall exhibition of of the eccentric genius that was Tibetan modern art. Till April 20. Kaufman.

Caravan hall, Summit Hotel Exhibition of Tibetan Thangkas, pashminas and statues. Till April 30. For Information: 5550415 RANI POKHARI EARTH DAY FESTIVAL

KMC Wards 1, 30 and 31 are hosting a month long Rani Pokhari Festival to Inter Cultural Film Society raise funds for the three wards. Festival ICFS presents “Ithihas Jitneharu Ko features: rafting on the lake, photo Laagi,” a documentary by Pranay exhibitions, live music, food stalls and Limbu and “Bheda Ko Oon Jasto,” a consumer goods stalls. This is a rare documentary by Kiran Krishna opportunity to explore this historic Shrestha at Nepal Tourism Board, lake-site, built by King Pratap Malla in Bhrikuti Mandap. The former 1667, which otherwise opens to the portrays the changes in the Nepali public only once a year on Bhai Tika. music scene, as represented by Kuber Rai and Dhiraj Rai and the latter documents journalist Narayan Wagle’s search for the source of folk tunes. Earth Day Celebrations April 25; Time: 5:30 p.m. April 19—Talk program and quiz at City Hall. Film Club, Baggikhana, Patan. April 20—Art competition at Paropkar Satyajit Ray Special: Film club High School presents a collection of famed Indian April 22—City-wide tree plantation director Satyajit Ray’s movies. Till drive, exhibitions and culture program. April 26

NATION WEEKLY | APRIL 19-25, 2004 33 Viewpoint Anthropology and Development

BY SONDRA L. HAUSNER oth anthropologists and development-walas have been part Bof Nepal’s bidesi world since the early 1950s. But each group has its own language and culture, and there has

rarely been an overlap of their social worlds. This is somewhat ironic, competition so stiff for stakes so low.”) Nobody really listens to what because both groups precisely deal with social worlds: the academics anthropologists have to say: just look at American foreign policy under studying social structures and meanings, and the development-walas President George W. Bush, at how little the State Department knew trying to figure out how to help disadvantaged groups. about life in Iraq, or at the upcoming presidential campaign, in which Western anthropologists may seem a strange species to Nepalis. We Democratic contender John Kerry is angling for presidency on the basis speak South Asian languages. We ask a lot of questions. We watch what of any foreign experience at all. There is a cohort of scholars who know people do, and many of us, wittingly or unwittingly, imitate what we see. a lot about Nepal, but policymakers rarely listen to them. But we are also undeniably Western. We ask questions like, “Why does And on the other side of the equation, most development-walas that happen?” and “What does that event mean to you?” when most actually do care a good deal about the countries in which they work, and people in Nepal feel that things happen the way they do for reasons that about reducing poverty in the world. They would like to be able to direct are largely inexplicable, and that the question, “Why?” doesn’t really development money to the right places. But the bureaucracies under mean very much. Although many anthropologists develop close friend- which they are forced to work are huge, expensive, and time-consuming. ships with people with whom they work—often over long People are still having the dinner table conversations I overheard as a periods of time, and quite devotedly—it’s not always kid: they know that most of their projects are missing the mark, clear what they really have to offer to Nepal. We and they feel exasperated by their inability to spend most of our time writing articles and books change the larger systems to which they are that end up in university libraries, often in an beholden. academic language that is almost impenetrable. But together, anthropology and development Development-walas have a different reputa- might be able to break out of their isolated states, tion. They clearly have access to a great deal of and actually help Nepal improve its social and money by global standards, let alone by Nepali economic conditions. If development-walas were standards. The inequities of development work to heed what anthropologists know and write about are glaring: the cost of a single Pajero could rebuild power, ethnicity, religion, gender, state structures, the entire infrastructure of any one village. And and cultural systems in Nepal, they might be able nobody even dares think what an enormous sal- to design and implement better projects. Doesn’t ary paid professionals must be getting. All too it follow that to help disadvantaged groups it might often, development-walas have very little idea about behoove a development planner to know how how Nepali society works, especially outside of those groups function? With clear, culturally-based Kathmandu. Most friendships exist within the de- information about people’s lives in different parts velopment world itself, rather than between devel- and for different groups in Nepal, development projects could actually opment-walas and the people they purport to as- reach people who need access to reproductive health care, drinking water, sist. The idea that people in such a vastly different economic good schools and education facilities, and real livelihood options. category would have any idea about how to help people whose lives they And if anthropologists start telling development-walas what they know, know so little about, seems rightly suspect to Nepalis. they will be using their knowledge to contribute to Nepal in ways that Both of these impressions are based in reality to some degree, but reach far beyond the ivory tower. Studying social groups can give people both are also quite one-sided. Those books and articles that anthro- in the development world, who have access to real power and real pologists produce are the sole stuff by which they get jobs or earn grants money, the information they actually need. There’s a recipe in here for to return to Nepal. Anthropologists usually make very little money, and togetherness that has taken half a century to come to fruition. And the the status of academic life in the West—especially in the United States, way committed foreigners can best help their adopted country relies on where most of the anthropologists on Nepal are based—is very low the marriage of these two social worlds: anthropology and development indeed. (There is a saying in the United States: “Only in academia is the can help each other, and together may be better able to help Nepal.

34 APRIL 19-25, 2004 | NATION WEEKLY Books

SUBALTERN TEXTS “Chitrakala Nirupan,’ written by Mukesh Unsung Heroes Malla, a painter and art critic, is a collection of 29 interviews and essays on contempo- rary Nepali artists. Although it is not an ex- COMPASSIONATE STORIES tensive writing on 20th century Nepali art, When Paul Theroux was still an emerg- it is a good introduction for laymen about ing young writer, his mentor V. S. the artistic traditions of Kathmandu. The Naipaul used to tell him that no matter book developed out of Malla’s visits to vari- what, a good writer was bound to get ous exhibitions and covers a wide range of noticed. But not every good writer is senior and young artists whom he inter- fortunate enough to be appreciated. A viewed, mostly on location. talented young writer, Mahesh Bikram The book reflects the tradition and Shah has been writing wonderful short works of master craftsmen as well as art- stories for literary magazines like ists of the margin. There are interviews “Samakalin Sahitya,” “Madhuparka,” and with veteran artists like Amar Chitrakar “Garima” for nearly a decade and yet his and Kalidas Shrestha, both of which were name scarcely gets a mention in the taken 13 years ago. From the interview with Nepali literary world. Shrestha we learn how Bhajuman’s trip to Some of Shah’s formerly published England with Junga Bahadur Rana exposed stories have been compiled in books: the artist to the world of oil painting, and “Sataha” (2053), “Shipahiki Swasni” how Bhajuman on his return introduced (2059) and the most recent, “African the art in Nepal. The book also has inter- Amigo.” “African Amigo,” which takes its esting stories about how the artists learned title from a story in the collection, con- their craft and how they live their lives: for tains 15 stories published over a period example, there is a story about how of six years. Although these stories have Manoharman Pun used to sell traditional different scopes and locales, a common drugs as a hawker and ran a tiny pub in thread runs through most: his concern Darjeeling before he started painting. The for the poor and hungry. Shah works the essays also examine the different educa- cruelty and insensitivity that poverty, tional backgrounds of the artists: for ex- hunger, pain and suffering breed in vil- lying dead, and weep. Outside, the cow ample, did you know that Urmila Upadhya lage people, into his fictional characters cries. They fear the cow is also dying was educated at the esteemed L’ecole de so movingly that he would put most and rush to the cowshed, only to see the Beaux Art in Paris? The book is packed Marxist writers to shame. calf suckling on her mother’s udder. Fa- with interviews with contemporary paint- Shah writes in the style reminiscent ther ties the calf to a pole and starts milk- ers like Batsa Gopal Baidya, Shashikala of 19th century writers like Guy de ing the cow. Looking at the bucket filled Tiwari, Ragini Upadhyaya, Manohar Man, Maupassant and O. Henry. His stories lin- to the brim, he smiles. Seeing him smile, Yogendra Dangol, Uttam Nepali, Kiran ger on with little of interest happening till Mother also smiles while the daughter Manandhar, Shyamlal Shrestha, Hiralal the last one or two paragraphs when he lies lifeless inside. Dangol and Ramananda Joshi. gives them a twist and ends them on an Although most of Shah’s stories work “Chitrakala Nirupan” is a text from emphatically high note. His endings fore- pretty well, at times they fail to pick up the margins in an age of glossy, mass-pro- ground human pathos so beautifully that and fizzle out. The reader who keeps on duced books. The Nepali market has the reader cannot help being deeply moved. reading his lingering narrative expecting dozens of small-scale publication houses “Charaki,” a story about a family that the stories to come to life can feel disap- which print books of poetry, fiction, es- needs to marry off their daughter, prob- pointed. And while Shah does add a fresh says and criticisms. Such print houses ably captures best the overriding theme voice to Nepali literature by bringing both have contributed immensely to our read- in Shah’s work. In the story, men come foreign locales and provincial settings and ing culture even when western books on to seek the daughter’s hand, but the suit- dialects into his stories, his foreign set- everything from politics and globaliza- ors won’t marry her until the parents tings sometimes seem generic. In stories tion to movies and art are available every- give the cow, Charaki, as a dowry. The like “African Amigo,” “Mrigatrishna” and where. Books published by such humble family depends on the cow for a living, “Chihan,” the reader cannot quite relate to presses may lack the fashionably critical and anxious though the parents are to the locales. But does this matter when he theories usually found in books pub- marry their daughter off, they can’t af- quite successfully brings foreign com- lished by big houses, but they brilliantly ford to give the cow as dowry or sell it plexities into these stories and makes us carry on the tradition of locals writing off to cover dowry expenses. Unable to relate to, or at leastN feel sympathetic to- about locals. They document the cul- get married the daughter commits sui- wards, his characters’ sufferings? tures of a nation and invite readings. cide. The parents rush to where she is By Ajit Baral By Arun Gupto NATION WEEKLY | APRIL 19-25, 2004 35 Khula Manch The Longest Period of Unrest

olitical parties have once again taken to the Pstreets and the riot police are out in full force. As the turn of events in the past weeks show, the police have no permanent friends and foes: former Home Minister Bamdev Gautam himself received a bloody blow during the street

protests. Sushma Joshi of Nation Weekly talked Inspector Deep Rana

with Deep Rana, an inspector at the like I was at the Hague Tribunal, and I Do you know the student leaders? Nepal City Police Office at was Milosevic. I explained the I have a cordial relationship with Bhrikutimandap, about his experience sequence of events, and was allowed to them. If I see them on the streets, I patrolling political protests and the go. ask them to controlDr. Prakash their boys,Sharan and Mahat I challenges of his job during what he control mine. It makes it easier to do calls the longest period of unrest in What are your main challenges the job. Nepal’s history. in this kind of work? My cadres come straight from the When violence happens, How long have you been villages. They arrive in the city, and who instigates it? working at this beat? have these plastic changes in None of the incidents this past year has I joined the City Police Office a year lifestyle. They have a lot of stress on been provoked from the police’s side. ago. You know what it’s been like the them. We have really good brief- The student leaders themselves have past one year with strikes and protests. ings— we tell them to make the praised us for our tolerance. We are So I have been going out on the streets, protesters run by scattering them, or trained from the beginning to be good and work to control the protests. by beating them on the legs rather to the public. Of course, it also than hitting them on the head. But depends upon the cadres. If there’s a What was the toughest political parties don’t have much cadre with a UML affiliation, and he is moment you faced? credibility in the streets. People will sent out to control a Nepali Congress There was a big protest in May 2003, and actually come up to the police and rally, he might see somebody who he it got out of hand. During protests, urge them: “Beat up these corrupt knows and against whom he has a certain areas like the Palace and Singha leaders. They deserve to have a good grudge, and decide to beat them up. Durbar are closed off to the public. beating. It makes the boys feel they That happens. Bhadrakali was also cordoned off. Then are justified in their actions. protesters forcibly tried to enter. I was at What are your personal thoughts the front trying to stop them. Then this There is a rumor that businessmen on the political movement? little protestor grabbed my walkie-talkie in Bagbazaar and Putalisadak are Multi-party democracy should happen, and ran. I ran after him. He fell down, trying to ban political protests in but political parties need to take the and my walkie-talkie fell on the ground. their neighborhood. time to analyze what went wrong for I was intent on retrieving it, and fell on Business has gone down 15 percent the past 10 years. They need to do some top of him. When I was down, all these in Bagbazaar and Putalisadak. The introspection. people started to kick me on the neck. protests have been happening for a When my boys saw what was happening year now—this is the longest Are you afraid when you’re to me, they couldn’t hold back and went period in Nepal’s history in which out on the street? in and started to beat people up. Lots of a political movement has been In the beginning, I used to feel not fear, politicians got beaten up that day. going on. In 1990, it was over in but anticipation when I went out on two months. I’ve been on the the streets about what might happen. What were the consequences streets, and I’ve seen it all—it used But now I’ve seen the worst of it. I’ve of that event? to be around 5,000 people, and now been stoned so many times the The DIG, Arjun Narsing, interrogated it’s no more than 2,000. People are dhunga-muda feels like dal-bhat me about what had happened. I felt fed up. now.

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NATION WEEKLY | APRIL 19-25, 2004 37 Last Word New Year, Old Problems

ven by Nepal’s recent stan- Nepal’s Maoist problem through the dards, 2060 was extremely prism of its global “war against terror- Emessy. After holding out peril- ism,” and India, which has never liked ously for seven uneasy months, the the international community’s pro- ceasefire finally collapsed. The toll in nouncements on Kashmir, would like to the “people’s war” galloped beyond the see Nepal resolve the Maoist issue with- 10,000-mark. Once the peace process out outside intervention. Share in the celebration of Lord Buddha’s birth in a idyllically peaceful setting, 98Kms away from the bustle of Kathmandu. foundered, it was clear that Nepal was We understand U.S. and Indian con- Choose to venture on a day hike, canyoning, rafting, climbing . we bring Live music, DJ, sumptious meals and smiles into the vivacious going to slide into a vicious cycle of vio- cerns but we think more along the Euro- atmosphere to make your stay wonderful lence and revenge killings. And events pean line. We urge both parties to the con- The Borderland since then are an indication that there is flict to ensure accountability for their ac- May 3: Arrive at Borderland for Lunch/Raft/ Thamel, Kathmandu Canyon/Other activities-Party. Tel: 4425836, 4700894 more in store for the country. tions. We condemn the Maoists for using May 4: Day Activities and then [email protected] depart to Kathmandu. www.borderlandresorts.com Each time a ceasefire breaks down, the child soldiers in the conflict and security task of putting together another gets that forces for not applying enough restraint in much more difficult, simply because the their counter-insurgency measures. We wel- parties to the conflict come the Army’s re- will approach the turn cent admission that of events with the Doramba was a mis- knowledge that pre- take, and the various vious attempts actions it says it has reached nowhere. taken against offend- And the public, ers. But such acts of whose concern for redemption have peace will remain been few and far be- central in cementing tween. any peace process, We call on both becomes apathetic to the parties to sign a the peace process. Human Rights Ac- For almost eight cord with commit- months now, both ments to respect in- the security forces ternational human and the Maoists have rights and humani- been trying to score tarian norms. To- needless points over ward that end, we call the other in an on the UN High unwinnable war. Abductions, extra-ju- Commissioner for Human Rights to pro- dicial killings, rape, torture and arbitrary vide its good offices to offer technical as- arrests have become so rampant that it is sistance to the National Human Rights almost impossible to keep track of them. Commission in monitoring and investi- And it is not just the number game that is gating the situation of human rights in our confusing (such as the wildly contradic- country torn apart by the present conflict. tory casualty figures given by the two We fear that unless the gross human rights parties on the Beni encounter last abuses committed by both the security month). Even the human rights debate forces and the Maoists are quickly stopped, is getting extremely polarized. the spiral of violence will balloon out of At the ongoing annual meet of the UN control, if it has not already, and any possi- Commission on Human Rights, Switzer- bility of reconciliation will be pushed back land is sponsoring a resolution that would that much further. We want to restore san- bind Nepal into improving its human ity while there is still time. That will make rights record. India and the United States, it all the more easy to rebuild the country on the other hand, are expected to block when the time comes—something we the resolution. The United States views hope will happen sooner than later.

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