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Home , Ajaccio AOC, Aramon (grape), Bandol, Barbaroux, Bourboulenc, Braquet

AND 243 PROVENCE AND CORSICA

If any does not travel, it has to be Provence . But this probably has more to do with the romance surrounding the wine than with the wine itself. The best Provençal are red, and they can be truly splendid.

YOU CAN FORGET MOST PROVENCE ROSÉ. It may come in an exotically shaped bottle, but exotic is the last word that could be used to describe its dull, flabby contents. They have been making wine here for more than 2,600 years, and by the time the Romans arrived, in 125BC, it was already so good that they immediately exported it back to Rome. But ask yourself this question: do you think that wine was a rosé? Of course not; Provence rosé is a relatively recent phenomenon and, some would cynically say, one that was deliberately designed to swindle the gold-draped nouveau riche who flock here. Rosé still represents more than half of all Provençal production, although sales have declined in recent years, as the once-

FACTORS AFFECTING TASTE AND QUALITY

LOCATION AND CORSICAN HProvence is situated in the JVINIFICATION These vineyards of Domaine de Valrose at Borgo, near the east coast, southeast of , between the All the vines used to be planted in are typical of the Corsican landscape. The east-coast plains are Rhône delta and the Italian border. gobelet fashion, but most are now backed by dramatic mountains, and palm trees proliferate. A farther 68 miles (110 kilometers) trained on wires. The recent trend southeast lies Corsica. toward has exclusive resorts become more accessible to the sophisticated stopped, although many excellent CLIMATE wines are still made from this middle classes, who recognize how dull these wines are. Quality FWinters are mild, as are . The current vogue is to improved in the 1980s, but has reached a plateau and, without springs, which can also be humid. reestablish a true Provençal identity resorting to actually acidifying the wines, modern vinification Summers are hot and stretch into by relying exclusively (where techniques will never be able to rid them of the dusty flabbiness long, sunny falls. A vine requires possible) on local varieties, and the 1,300 hours of sunshine in one laws have been changed to that is their sunny southern heritage. growing season—1,500 hours is encourage this particular evolution. preferable, but in Provence, it Much of the rosé has been THE TRUE CLASSIC WINES OF PROVENCE luxuriates in an average of 3,000 improved by modern cool- For most people, Provence evokes the beaches of St.-Tropez or hours. The close proximity of the vinification techniques, although Mediterranean, however, is also most remains tired and flabby. the rich, -laden aromas of backstreet , but capable of inducing sharp there are other experiences to be had in this sun-blessed corner fluctuations in the weather. Rain is GRAPE VARIETIES of . For while the wines of Provence may not spread over a limited number of GAragnan, , Aramongris, days in fall and winter. Barbarossa, , Barbaroux have the classic status of or Bordeaux, the reds, such as Rosé, , , Brun- the magnificent , the darkly promising Bellet, and the aptly ASPECT Fourcat, Cabernet Sauvignon, named , have an abundance of spice-charged flavors that EThe vineyards run down (syn. Pecoui-touar), , hillsides and on to the plains. show more than a touch of class. Silly-shaped bottles are being Castets, , Cinsault (syn. discarded by the more serious winemakers who find the classic, SOIL Plant d’), Clairette, Clairette à DThe geology of Provence is Gros Grains, Clairette à Petits Grains, complex. Many ancient soils have Clairette de Trans, , Counoise, Doucillon, , Fuella, undergone chemical changes and RECENT PROVENÇAL AND CORSICAN numerous new soils have been , , created. Sand, red sandstone, and , Mayorquin, Mourvèdre, 2003 The year of the heatwave meant extremely variable results in granite are, however, the most d’, Muscat Blanc à regular common denominators, Petits Grains, Muscat de Die, Provence, where even the best reds are all too often overalcoholic with limestone outcrops that often Muscat de Frontignan, Muscat de and lacking in elegance. determine the extent of superior Hambourg, Muscat de Marseille, 2002 Wet at best, floods at worst, with few exceptional wines in : the département has Muscat Noir de Provence, Muscat mica-schist, chalky scree, and chalky Rosé à Petits Grains, , Provence (a good rosé year!), but good in Corsica for Vin de Corse tufa as well as granite hillsides; Panse Muscade, Pascal Blanc, Petit- (particularly, though not exclusively, for whites), , and there are excellent flinty-limestone Brun, , Picpoul, Pignerol, Muscat du Cap Corse. soils at Bandol; and pudding stones , Sémillon, (conglomerate pebbles) that are Sciacarello, , Téoulier (syn. 2001 A dry year produced well-colored Provençal red wines of good rich in flint at Bellet. The south Manosquin), Blanc, Terret to very good quality. of Corsica is mostly granite, while Gris (syn. Terret-Bourret), , the north is schistous, with a few Terret Ramenée, (syn. 2000 Very good quality all around. Tibourenc), Ugni Blanc, Ugni Rosé, limestone outcrops and deposits of 1999 Average to good for Bandol, better for other reds. sandy and alluvial soils in between. (syn. Rolle) 244 FRANCE

N 570 7 N D 19 St-Rémy-de- N85 ALPES N202 Provence D2 Gréolières D973 212 les Baux-de- MARITIMES Colomars Provence D569 D21 N7 D973 n Escragnolles D17 Eyguières Vinon-sur- o r d 51 e Comps-sur-Artuby Loup N572 A V ARLES 111 Pertuis D554 SALON-DE- D561 1122 23 S D ia PROVENCE 501 g St-Martin-de-Crau A54 N96 n D562 D572 Rians e 729 A8 D561 D557 D562 N7 BOUCHESG DU RHÔNE 656 D3 r 195 Etang a AIX-EN- Cap d'Antibes n N568 D10 du A7 299 d A PROVENCE 589 Vaccarès rc R D554 Ile Ste-Marguerite h Berre-l'Etang Etang ns N555 ô Arge 226 St-Maximin- N7 117 n D9

de N98 e la-Ste-Baume D35 A8 Berre N96 D908 A8 VAR Frejus Marìgnane N560 670 D25 Port-St-Louis- 47 N568 Auriol du-Rhône D1 507 N7 682 D558 D5 la Garde- Carry-le-Rouet A50 Gapeau D5 Freinet Marseille AUBAGNE Méounes- Ste-Maxime 57 Ile Ratonneau lès-Montrieux A D559 496 St-Tropez N8 800 Cassis A50 52 424 N98 153 D559 Cap Camarat Solliès-Pont 57 Cavalaire-sur-Mer A 175 Bandol Six-Fours-les Plages LA SEYNE- HYÈRES SUR-MER es Iles d ' Hyèr Villages entitled to add their names to Bellet the Vin de Corse (see Corsica map) Cap Corse or the Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence Vin de Corse appellation (see Provence map) Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence Patrimonio

Côtes de Provence D801139 Coteaux Coteaux Varois Muscadet du Cap Corse du Cap Corse Departément boundary Golfe Cassis 1307 de St-Florent Erbalunga Height above sea level (meters) Palette 0 10 20 miles St-Florent D81 Bandol 577 0 10 20 30 40 km I'lle-Rousse Sto-Pietro-

N1197 di-Tenda

Pointe de la Revellata D62 N193 Calvi N197 D151 9 1938 Casamozza G 848 olo PROVENCE AND CORSICA, D147 Ponte-Leccia see also p.55 D81 Asco Folleli

Although part of this wine-producing area is an N193 579 HAUTE CORSE island and part is on the French mainland, both F an Monte Cinto o PARIS go 2706 ol D71 of these sun-soaked regions are subject to the G same capricious Mediterranean weather 1438 D84 Corte conditions, although frost is rare in both. Golfe de Porto 146 Evisa 98 Capo Rosso 2327 Piana N200 N1 2453 D70 D81 T av D23 ig 22 141 na D69 732 n 1623 o Sagone Monte D344 Renoso Aléria Golfe de Sagone N193 123 2281 CORSE lli Capo di Feno ne ru THE CRUS CLASSÉS OF PROVENCE P 749 1569 Provence is the only region outside Bordeaux to boast a cru classé system.The AJACCIO D83 cru classé concept was conceived by Napoléon III, hence the 1855 classification. Golfe D555 Monte Incudine 2134 Solenzara One hundred years later, 14 domaines in the Côtes de Provence somehow d'Ajaccio 1060 DUD69 Verghia vo managed to arrange their own classification, endorsed by ministerial decree on ra D268 522 Ta Aullène e ès July 20, 1955.These domaines were selected on the basis of the following criteria: n Rizza ancestral inheritance; family ownership; historic buildings and reputation; the Capo di Muro 516 soil, , , and cellar; the wine produced; and the quality sought for N198 Ste-Lucie-de- more than one century.The crus classés of Côtes de Provence are: Golfe de Valinco SUD Porto-Vecchio 1058 • Château de Brégançon (Bormes • Domaine de Rimauresq (Pignans): D59 Porto-Vecchio les Mimosas): 124 acres/50ha • Clos 91 acres/37ha • Château de Roubine 281 1 Cibonne (): 34 ⁄2 acres/14ha (): 173 acres/70ha • Château Punta di Senetosa 171 N1 859 • Château du Galoupet (La Londe): Ste. Marguerite (La Londe): 62 96 D 163 acres/66ha • Domaine du Jas acres/25ha • Château de St. Martin d’Esclans (La Motte): 156 acres/63ha (): 94 acres/38ha • Château PARIS • Château de Mauvanne (Hyères): St. Maur (Cogolin): 119 acres/48ha • 124 acres/50ha • Château Minuty Château Ste. Roseline (Les Arcs-sur- Ile Bonifacio Cavallo (): 161 acres/65ha • Clos ): 222 acres/90ha • Château Capo Pertusato Ile (La Londe): 131 acres/53ha de Selle (Taradeau): 151 acres/61ha Lavezzi PROVENCE AND CORSICA 245 understated lines of Bordeaux- and Burgundy-style bottles better to better use. If the vin de pays system was intended to encourage reflect the quality of their wines. the production of superior-quality wines from the bottom of the The top estates of the Riviera produce red wines of a far more market upward, then here at least it has been successful, for this serious caliber than might be expected from an area better known island is no longer the generous contributor to Europe’s “wine- for its play than its work. Maximum yields are low, however, and lake” it used to be. the potential for quality can be high. The smaller AOCs of Bandol, The days when Corsica’s wines were fit only for turning into Bellet, and Palette are restricted to a maximum of 180 cases per industrial spirit are long gone, but nor is this a potentially fine acre (40 hectoliters per hectare), which is very modest for a region wine region. Just 15 percent of its vineyards are AOC, and that could easily average more than double this amount. Even the these barely more than 5 percent of Corsica’s total wine all-embracing AOCs of Côtes de Provence and Coteaux d’Aix-en- production. Although this is a fair and accurate reflection of its Provence are absolutely full of fine vineyards capable of producing true potential, most critics agree that even within the modest the exciting that must surely be Provence’s future. limits of vin de pays production there should be many more individually expressive domaines. What has restricted their CORSICA—“THE ISLE OF BEAUTY” numbers is, however, something few are willing to talk about— In Corsica, the advent of France’s vin de pays system meant that intimidation and extortion by the local Mafia, which has caused around one-third of the island’s vineyards were uprooted and put more than one brave new Corsican venture to founder.

THE APPELLATIONS OF PROVENCE AND CORSICA

Note * denotes producers who are particularly cinnamon, violets, and sweet herbs. gA minimum of 60% Cinsault, Grenache, and recommended for rosé. gA blend of at least two of the following: Syrah, no two varieties of which must Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Cinsault, of account for more than 90% of the entire AJACCIO AOC which a minimum of 50% Mourvèdre is blend, plus a maximum of 30% in total of This is a predominantly red-wine appellation obligatory, plus no more than 15% in total one or more of the following: Carignan, on the west coast of Corsica. or 10% individually of Syrah and Carignan Counoise, and Mourvèdre, with a maximum RED When successful, this will inevitably be k3–12 years of 10% Cabernet Sauvignon a medium-bodied Sciacarello wine with a WHITE These dry wines are now fresher and k1–2 years good bouquet. more fragrant than they were, but they are tHauvette Y • Mas Sainte-Berthe (Louis gAt least 60% (in total) of Barbarossa, nothing special compared with the reds. David) • de la Vallongue* Y Nielluccio, Vermentino, and Sciacarello (the gA minimum of 20% (50% as from 2011) last of which must account for at least 40%), Clairette, plus 40% (60% as from 2011) of BELLET AOC plus a maximum of 40% (in total) of Bourboulenc and/or Ugni Blanc (Sauvignon Grenache, Cinsault, and Carignan (the last Blanc is no longer allowed) of which must not exceed 15%) kWithin 1 year WHITE Decently dry and fruity, the best have ROSÉ Well-made, attractive dry rosés, with a good edge of Ugni Blanc acidity. body, structure, and a fine individual character. ROSÉ Average to good-quality dry rosé with a gAs for red but no minimum Mourvèdre typical southern roundness. content g As for the red k1–2 years k All wines: 1–3 years tChâteau des Baumelles • Bunan (Moulin tComte Abbatucci (Faustine Abbatucci) • des Costes Charriage, Château la Rouvière, Comte Peraldi Mas de la Rouvière) • Dupéré-Barrera (India) • du Gros’Noré • de l’Hermitage • BANDOL AOC de la Laidière • Lafran-Veyrolles • Château de Pibarnon • Château Pradeaux • This tiny Provence appellation is cooled Château Ste.-Anne Y • des Salettes • La by Alpine winds and produces exceptionally Suffrene (Les Lauves) • Tempier • fragrant wines for such a southerly Terrebrune • Vannières location. ROSÉ Fine, floral, dry rosés that are exceptionally fresh and easy to drink. LES BAUX DE gBraquet, Fuella, Cinsault, plus up to 40% PROVENCE AOC (in total) of Grenache, Rolle, Ugni Blanc, Excellent red and rosé wines, sold under the Mayorquin, Clairette, Bourboulenc, subappellation of Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Chardonnay, Pignerol, and Muscat à Les Baux until 1995, when they were given their Petits Grains own AOC and the requirements changed. k1–2 years RED Deep, dark, and rich, with creamy-spicy RED These wines have a good color and cherry and plum flavors. structure, with a well-perfumed bouquet. gA minimum of 60% Grenache, Mourvèdre gBraquet, Fuella, Cinsault, plus up to 40% The red wine of this Provence appellation is and Syrah, no two varieties of which must (in total) of Grenache, Rolle, Ugni Blanc, a true vin de garde and deserves recognition. account for more than 90% of the entire Mayorquin, Clairette, Bourboulenc, The encépagement changed blend, plus a maximum 30% in total of one Chardonnay, Pignerol, and Muscat à in 2003. or more of the following: Carignan, Cinsault Petits Grains RED The best of these wines have a dark and Counoise, with a maximum of 20% k4–10 years Cabernet Sauvignon purple-black color, a deep and dense bouquet, WHITE Fine, firm yet fragrant, and highly masses of spicy-plummy Mourvèdre fruit, and k4–10 years aromatic, dry white wines of unbelievable class complex after-aromas that include vanilla, cassis, ROSÉ De la Vallongue is rich and ripe. and finesse. 246 FRANCE gRolle, Ugni Blanc, Mayorquin, plus up to Cinsault, Counoise, Mourvèdre, Syrah, de Provence Villages AOC a logical evolution 40% Clairette, Bourboulenc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Carignan (the last and give the most expressive growers Pignerol, and Muscat à Petits Grains two of which must not exceed 30%) something to aim for. k3–7 years k3–12 years RED There are too many exciting styles to tChâteau de Bellet • Clos Saint-Vincent (Clos) WHITE Dry and fruity white wines that are of generalize, but the best have a deep color and moderate quality, and are certainly improving. many show an exuberance of silky Syrah fruit CASSIS AOC These wines may be sold from December 1 and plummy Mourvèdre. Some have great finesse, others are more tannic and chewy. The This is a decent but overpriced Provence following the without any mention of primeur or nouveau. southern spicy-cassis of Cabernet Sauvignon is appellation located around a beautiful rocky often present and the Cinsault, Grenache, and gA maximum of 70% (each) of Bourboulenc, bay, a few miles east of Marseille. In all but a Tibouren also play important roles. few enterprising estates, these vineyards are on Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Vermentino, up to g the decline. 40% Ugni Blanc and no more than 30% The following must represent at least 70% (each) of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon (80% as from 2015) of the entire blend: RED These solid, well-colored red wines can Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and kUpon purchase age, but most do not improve. Tibouren, but no two varieties may account gGrenache, Carignan, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, ROSÉ Fine-quality dry rosés that are light in for more than 90%; plus optional Barbaroux Barbaroux, plus up to 10% (in total) of body, but bursting with deliciously fresh and Rosé, Cabernet Sauvignon, Calitor, and Terret Noir, , , Terret ripe fruit. These wines may be sold from Carignan, with no more than 10% of Ramenée, Aramon, and Aramon Gris December 1 following the harvest without any Clairette, Sémillon, Ugni Blanc, WHITE These dry white wines have an mention of primeur or nouveau. and Vermentino interesting bouquet of herby aromas of gorse gAs for red, plus up to 10% (in total) of k3–10 years Bourboulenc, Clairette, Grenache Blanc, and bracken, but are usually flabby and Moderate but improving soft, dry, Vermentino, Ugni Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, WHITE unbalanced on the palate. However, Bagnol fragrant, and aromatic wines. These wines may and Sémillon and St.-Magdeleine produce excellent, racy be sold from December 1 following the harvest whites for such southerly vineyards, and Ferme k1–2 years without any mention of primeur or nouveau. Blanche can be almost as good. tdes Béates Z (Terra d’Or) • Château de gClairette, Sémillon, Ugni Blanc, gUgni Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Doucillon, Beaupré • Château de Calissanne • de and Vermentino Clairette, Marsanne, Pascal Blanc Camaissette (Amadeus) • Jean-Luc Colombo k1–2 years ROSÉ Pleasantly fresh, dry rosés of moderately (Pin Couchés) • Hauvette Y • Château interesting quality. Pigoudet (La Chapelle) • Château St-Jean* ROSÉ Mediterranean sun is integral to the enjoyment of these wines, which are without gGrenache, Carignan, Mourvèdre, Cinsault, COTEAUX VAROIS AOC doubt made to accompany food, but even the Barbaroux, plus up to 10% (in total) of best fail to perform against other rosés under Terret Noir, Terret Gris, Terret Blanc, Terret Upgraded from vin de pays to VDQS in 1985 blind conditions; their low acidity makes them Ramenée, Aramon, and Aramon Gris and to AOC in 1993, this appellation covers an seem flat and dull. These wines may be sold kAll wines: 1–3 years area of pleasant country wines in the center of from December 1 following the harvest without tdu Bagnol • Clos Val Bruyère Provence. The encépagement changed in 2001. any mention of primeur or nouveau. RED The best have good color, a deep fruity gThe following must represent at least 70% CORSE AOC flavor, and some finesse. (80% as from 2015) of the entire blend: Alternative appellation, see Vin de Corse AOC gAt least two of the following must represent Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and 80 to 90% of the entire blend: Cinsault, Tibouren, but no two varieties may account COTEAUX D’AIX-EN- Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah, plus for more than 90%; plus optional Barbaroux PROVENCE AOC optional Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Rosé, Cabernet Sauvignon, Calitor, and and Tibouren (permitted since 2001) Carignan, with no more than 10% of WHITE Soft and fresh at best. Clairette, Sémillon, Ugni Blanc, gA minimum of 30% Vermentino, plus and Vermentino Clairette, Grenache Blanc, a maximum k1–2 years of 30% Sémillon, and no more than 25% tClos d’Alari (Manon) • Château des Ugni Blanc Anglades (Collection Privée) • Château ROSÉ These attractive, easy-to-drink, dry rosés de l’Aumerade (Louis Fabre) • Château offer better value than some of the more Barbeyrolles • de la Bastide Neuve (d’Antan) famous, pretentious wines of Provence. • Ludovic de Beauséjour (Bacarras) • de la gAt least two of the following must represent Courtade • Château Coussin Sainte-Victoire 80 to 90% of the entire blend: Cinsault, (César) • Dupéré-Barrera (En Caractère) • Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah, plus Domaines Gavoty • du Grand Cros (Nectar) optional Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, and • de Jalle (La Bouïsse) • de La Lauzade • Tibouren (permitted since 2001), and no de la Malherbe* • Château Maravenne • more than 10% Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Château Minuty (Prestige) • Commanderie Sémillon, Ugni Blanc, and Vermentino de Peyrassol* • Château Requier* (Tête de Cuvée) • de Rimauresq • La Rouvade kAll wines: 1–3 years (Prestige) • Saint-André de Figuière • de tdes Chaberts (Prestige) • de Garbelle (Les St.-Baillon • Château Sainte-Roseline • Barriques de Barbelle) • Château Lafoux • Château Sarrins* • Château de Selles* (also de • Château Thuerry (Les Clos Mireille) • Château de la Tour l’Evéque* Abeillons) • Château Trians • Vignerons Presqu’Ile St.-Tropez (Château de Pampelonne, Carte Noire) • Vannières • CÔTES DE PROVENCE AOC Alba (Elevé en Fûts de Chêne) While this AOC is famous for its rosés, it is the red wines of Côtes de Provence that have real MUSCAT DU CAP CORSE AOC This large appellation has many fine estates, potential, and they seem blessed with good When I first wrote this book in 1988, Corsica’s several of which have been replanted vintages, fine estates, and talented winemakers. only truly classic wine, the succulent sweet and reequipped. Inferior wines are made, but drink the Muscat of Cap Corse, was not even recognized, RED The best are deeply colored vins de best and you will rarely be disappointed. let alone awarded the AOC status it deserved, garde with lots of creamy-cassis, spicy-vanilla, The major drawback of this all-embracing and it took five more years to get it on the and cherry flavors, capable of some appellation is its very size. There are, however, statute books. The Muscat du Cap Corse complexity. several areas with peculiarities of soil and appellation overlaps Vin de Corse Coteaux du gGrenache, plus a maximum of 40% of specific microclimates that would make a Côtes Cap Corse and five of the seven communes that PROVENCE AND CORSICA 247

VIN DE BELLET MORE GREEN WINES AOC See Bellet AOC In addition to the producers recommended in this directory that are either biodynamic or organic, there are also the following. No negative inference of quality should be taken from the fact that they are not featured among my recommended producers. There are a number that have been VIN DE recommended in other editions, and still make some fine wines, but have been removed to CORSE AOC make room for others. Vin de Corse is a generic appellation covering the entire island. The encépagement changed Biodynamic Chateau du Duvivier (Pontevès), in 2003. Château la Canorgue (Bonnieux), Château d’Esclans (La Motte), Château Les Les Fouques (Hyères), Eydins (Bonnieux), Mas de Gourgonnier RED These honest wines are full of fruit, round, Château Romanin (St Rémy de Provence), (Mouriès), Hauvette (St Rémy de Provence), and clean, with rustic charm. St Estève () de l’Isle des Sables (Fourques), du Jas d’Esclans gAt least 50% Grenache, Nielluccio, (La Motte), La Bastide du Puy Sciacarello, and Grenache Noir, plus a Organic (St Saturnin Lès Apt), de Landue (Solliés-Pont), des Terres Blanches (St Rémy-de-Provence), Mas de Longchamp (St Rémy de Provence), maximum of 50% Barbarossa, Carignan, du Thouar (Le Muy), de l’Adret des Salettes Château Miraval (), de Pierrascas Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Vermentino (Lorgues), des Alysses (Pontèves), (La Garde), de Pinchinat (Pourrières), (Carignan and/or Vermentino must not des Annibals (Brignoles), L’Attilon (Mas Thibert), Rabiega (Draguignan), de Révaou exceed 20% of the entire blend) Les Bastides (Le Puy Ste Réparade), (La Londes les Maures), Richeaume de Beaujeu (Arles), Château de Beaulieu WHITE The best are well-made, clean, and (), Robert (Rognes), de la Sanglière fresh, but not of true AOC quality. (Rognes), Château La Calisse (Pontevès), (Bormes Les Mimosas), SCIEV (Molleges), CV des Vignerons de Correns et du Val (Correns), de Séoule (St Saturnin Lès Apt), gAt least 75% Vermentino, plus optional Ugni de Costebonne (Eygalières), St André de Figuière (La Londe des Maures), Blanc Mas de la Dame (Les Baux de Provence), de St-Jean-de- (Villecroze) ROSÉ Attractive, dry, fruity, easy-to-drink wines. gAt least 50% Grenache, Nielluccio, Sciacarello, and Grenache Noir, plus a comprise the Patrimonio AOC. variety planted), plus Picardan, Ugni Blanc, maximum of 50% Barbarossa, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and Vermentino WHITE The wines of Clos Nicrosi (in Ugni Rosé, Grenache Blanc, Muscat (any (Carignan and/or Vermentino must not particular) demonstrate that Corsica has the variety planted), Picpoul, Pascal, Aragnan, exceed 20% of the entire blend) ability to produce one of the most fabulous Colombard, and a maximum of 20% Terret- Muscats in the world. These wines are so Bourret kAll wines: 1–3 years pure and succulent, with wonderful fresh kUpon purchase tAndriella • Casabianca • Clos Colombu • aromas, that they have very little to gain ROSÉ A well-made but not exceptional wine, CV de L’Ile de Beauté (Réserve du Président) through age. which is perhaps made too seriously for its level • Maestracci • Musoleu (Monte Cristo) • gMuscat Blanc à Petits Grains of quality. Clos de L’Orlea • Clos Poggiale kUpon purchase gAt least 50% (in total) of Mourvèdre, tClos Nicrosi • Leccia • Orenga de Gaffory Grenache, and Cinsault, plus Téoulier, Durif, VIN DE CORSE and Muscat (any variety planted), Carignan, CALVI AOC PALETTE Syrah, Castets, Brun-Fourcat, Terret Gris, AOC Petit-Brun, Tibouren, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lying north of Ajaccio, this subappellation of and up to 15% (in total) of Clairette (any Vin de Corse AOC requires the same grape The ridiculously long list of permissible grapes variety planted), Picardan, Ugni Blanc, Ugni varieties and meets the same technical level. here illustrates one of the worst excesses of Rosé, Grenache Blanc, Muscat (any variety t the AOC system. What is the point of such a Colombu • Maestracci • Renucci planted), Picpoul, Pascal, Aragnan, large number of diverse grape varieties? Colombard, and Terret-Bourret Ignoring the fact that it includes some low- VIN DE CORSE COTEAUX DU quality ones that should, if anything, be banned, k1–3 years it is obvious that no specific style could tChâteau Crémade • Château Simone CAP CORSE AOC possibly result from the infinite permutation A subappellation of Vin de Corse, this requires of varieties and percentages this AOC permits. PATRIMONIO the same varieties, except that Codivarta may be Why not simply have an appellation that AOC used with Ugni Blanc in support of Vermentino. guarantees that Palette is from Palette? Despite this farce, Palette is one of the best in Provence. This is a small appellation situated west of It can be considered the equivalent of a grand Bastia in the north of Corsica. The VIN DE CORSE cru of Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence, standing encépagement changed in 2002. FIGARI AOC out from surrounding vineyards by virtue of RED Some fine-quality red wines of good color, Situated between Sartène and Porto Vecchio, its calcareous soil. Three-quarters of this body, and fruit are made. Vin de Corse Figari is a subappellation of Vin appellation is occupied by just one property— gAt least 90% Nielluccio, plus Grenache, de Corse AOC and requires the same grape Château Simone. Sciacarello, and Vermentino varieties and technical level. RED Though not in the blockbusting style, this WHITE Light and dry wines of a remarkably tde Petra Bianca (Vinti Legna) is a high-quality wine with good color and firm fragrant and floral character for Corsica. structure, and can achieve finesse. gVermentino VIN DE CORSE PORTO gAt least 50% (in total) of Mourvèdre, ROSÉ Good-value dry rosés that have a coral- Grenache, and Cinsault, plus Téoulier, Durif, pink color and an elegant flavor. VECCHIO AOC and Muscat (any variety planted), Carignan, gAt least 75% Nielluccio, plus Grenache, The southeastern edge of Corsica, around Porto Syrah, Castets, Brun-Fourcat, Terret Gris, Sciacarello, and Vermentino Vecchio, is a subappellation of Vin de Corse Petit-Brun, Tibouren, Cabernet Sauvignon, AOC and requires the same grape varieties and kAll wines: 1–3 years and up to 15% (in total) of Clairette (any technical level. variety planted), Picardan, Ugni Blanc, Ugni tAliso-Rossi • de Catarelli • Gentile (Sélection Rosé, Grenache Blanc, Muscat (any variety Noble) • Giacomett (Cru des Agrigates) • planted), Picpoul, Pascal, Aragnan, Leccia • Orenga de Gaffory • • VIN DE CORSE Colombard, and Terret-Bourret Clos Teddi SARTENE AOC k7–20 years South of Ajaccio, this subappellation of Vin de WHITE Firm but nervy dry wine with a VIN DE Corse AOC requires the same grape varieties pleasantly curious aromatic character. BANDOL AOC and conforms to the same technical level. gAt least 55% (in total) of Clairette (any See Bandol AOC tClos d’Alzeto • Saparale