PART V.

HISTORY OF CHELAN. COUNTY

CHAPTER I.

EARLY HISTORY AND PASSING EVENTS.

To write a history of Chelan county from man could trace them. Rock bluffs rise abrupt• the time it was'organized from portions of Kit::• ly and frequently along the Columbia, sheer titas and Okanogan counties would be a com• from the water's edge, from one to five hun• paratively easy task. At present it is the new• dred feet in places. These must be conquered est county commonwealth in the state,· but it and oft times this could only be accomplished has traditionary and authentic histories dating by a wi11ding tortuous trail, so steep that even nearly as far hack as any other distinct section the cure-footed cayuse cottld hardly nl.aster it. in . Among the earliest to come to this country The name of the county is derived from were Chinese. Placer mining was the object the famous lake . in its northern part. The of their most sanguine hopes. Up and down word "Chelan" is, doubtless; a contraction of the Columbia and its numerous tributaries they Chelanic, the name of a tribe of Indians, but wandered and panned and rocked a satisfying, the meaning of the term Chelan is still wrapped if not an enormous volume of auriferous de• in ambiguity. Many years ago the fur traders posits fro1J1 the various bars and creeks. A following up, or down, the great natural high• majority of these Celestials came from Califor• way of the state of Washington, the Columbia nia, following the trails of Indians, fur dealers river, frequented these parts, hovered awhile and miners. And thus it chanced that all along and traded witlr the Indians at times, and then the banks of this big, roaring, treacherous plunged again into the wilderness stretching stream, wherever wash soil could be found, on away to the northward, far up through the which water could be obtained, or to which it Okanogan country, and even into British Col• could be carried, one finds today the abandoned umbia.. Then came the prospectors, tho:e prospect holes of the original Chinese placer ous and tireless searchers after mineralized miner. It developed a fruitful field; for many rock or the more accessible placer mine. The years it was worked industriously; frequently Indians found their winding trails along the with astonishing profit. Opposite the mouth Columbia execllent paths to the ocean. These of the Chelan river, where it debouches into trails would be far froin satisfactory to the the Columbia, from the west, are the ruins of members of a "good roads commission." They a Chinese village in what is now Douglas coun• were not even on a level. Only a skilled woods- ty. The remains of this early settlement may

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

be seen from Chelan Falls, across the river, or how death had come to him. Some of his half a mile away. It was built mainly of cedar comrades spoke of a broken heart, and then boards split from the log, like shakes, pegged they buried him in the little patch he had so against upright posts, and roofed with logs and assiduously attended. When the village was brush. At present nothing but the shells of deserted no vandal hand disturbed the garden; these huts remain. In this early settlement Nearly fifteen years ago this settlement was there was a store. It was the first business en• abandoned. The finances of the old Chinese terprise in the country; the proprietor was a merchant were running low, for.he had "grub• Chinese merchant. To the Chinese workers staked" too many of his countrymen in their along the river he supplied goods, and he made search for gold. In a big mine up on the Okan• considerable money. A pack train of forty ogan river he had an interest, and there he horses he owned with which he brought in his moved, taking his lares and penates, his goods, miscellaneous assortment of English, Ameri• his horses and even the number of his store can and Chinese merchandise. It is stated that with him. One by one others followed him, no stranger ever appeared at this store who was and wandered away, up or down the trail. The not made welcome by the old Chinese mer• "diggings" are deserted; the village is a ruin; . the cabins the abode of snakes and rodents. A tragedy tinged with romance is connect• VVith the progress of civilization in the Colum• ed with this oriental settlement. On one side bia Valley these old ·placer marks will disap• of the site there was a garden, now overgrown pear ; the cabins will be torn clown and real with mustard plants and weeds. It was en• prosperity will sweep grandly over the scene. closed by a low picket fence and a gate led in• All this was in r875. It was, practically, ward. It was a token of advanced civilization. an Indian war against the Chinese that drove The proprietor of this little kitchen garden was them away, but at the ti111e this was not gen• a -eyed youth with a voice like a muffled erally known. Along the Methow river the bell. He was in with a dusky maiden who savages began attacking the Chinese of whom lived across the Columbia, on the banks of they killed several. The news rapidly circu• . But this Celestial had made a lated among their comrades. When the Siwa• peculiar vow never to declare his love. · And shes came to the settlement intent on its demol• this vow had been registered before the great ishment, they found nobody save a few strag• joss of the little Chinese community. Hence glers. · There were several sharp skirmishes in he was moody and g-rew "queer," unsocial, mel• which some were killed on both sides. A cor• ancholy and distrait. While others flocked to respondent of the Spokesman-Review says: the gaming house he remained solitary and "\i\Then thIndians reached a point on the alone in his garden. Until quite late in the even• Columbia a few miles below where Chelan ing he would sit there and brood over his un• Falls now stands they discovered a number of spoken love, when, Chinamen at work on the benches three hun• "Night hung her sable curtain out, and dred feet above. The savages advanced cau• pinned it with a star." tiously ·and surrounded the Celestials on three So he sighed anci dreamed way his life. sides, leaving only the steep bluffs unguarded. Everyone sympathized with him in accordance Then began an uneven fight. The Chineman with the old, old adage, "All the world loves were unprotected and unable to escape, and a lover." But his friends could do him no they proved an easy prey to their savage an• farther good. One morning he was found dead tagonists. How many were massacred was in the little kitchen garden. No one knew when never known, but it is positive that not one was

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.-

left to tell the tale. It was an awful fig-ht, that the town "New Mission.'' Here the first steps sent 'terror into the-·hearts of the other Chinese toward irrigation were taken. Father Grassi along the river. After that there was little turned a small stream of water flowing to the placer mining- done for months, then one· by river from the mountain, over a small garden one the Celestials returned, but never could one patch ai1d planted a few seeds which he had _ of them be induced to g-o on the bench where brought with him into the country. The soil the massacre occurred and open up the dig• yielded bountifully. To the Indians he taug-ht gings again. Today they are in exactly the the elementary principles of agriculture. In same condition as that in which they were when the temporal as well as the spiritual welfare of the workers were slaug-htered by the Indians. the Indians Father Grassi interested himself. "Now the placer fields of the past are own• Within a brief time the log church was found ed by settlers, and are fast becoming- beautiful too small to accommodate the congregation and fruit orchards. Occasionally a townsite spring-s a larger one was erected .one and one-half miles up and some envious fellows, anxious to secure to the eastward. For five years he held stated control, file, or attempt to file, placer claims on services here, and then the natives were left the land, but such work is considered as dis• without a regular pastor, being supplied at in• reputable among the settlers as claim-jumping tervals from other missions. It is undoubted that and the intruders usually receive a cold recep- Father Grassi's influence upon the IndiaBs tion." rnade for their best good. They became peace- The oldest settled portion of Chelan county . ful, law-abiding and sent their children to is Mission Valley. Authentic reports of white school. men visiting this portion of the Columbia Then came the white settlers into the valley. valley date back to about 1863. But it is well The productive gardens of the Indians taught known that the nomadic tq.ppers connected them what irrigation could accomplish in this with the Astoria enterpi·ise explored the Wena• country. Among the first to settle in Mission tchee river long before that period. These men, Valley was Mr. D. S. Farrar. At that period however, were adventurers, not settlers.· They he was the only one in the valley who had hay brought nothing into the country; they carried to sell, and t[1e Indians called him "Hayman." nothing out save their bundle of peltries. But He came here in r883 carrying a pack upon in 1863 Father Respari, a Catholic missionary, his back, and homesteaded a ranch. Other early visited the Indians of the locality in an en• settlers in the valley were Captain A. S. Bur• deavor to Christianize them. For twenty years bank, Mr. J. Frank Woodring, Joel Treadwell, he labored and was succeeded by Father Gras• Squire Stewart, James H. Chase, J. L. Weyth• si, mention of whom has been rhade in the "His• man and R. A. Brown. tory of Okanogan County." Twenty-seven years ago Colonel Merriam Father Grassi built .a log church on the was sent to Lake Chelan with a body of troops. banks of the Wenatchee river. He made his His object was to locate there a military post. home with one Peter Benoit, a sort of Archon• Following the building of a saw mill prepara• ic chief, who early becoming a Christian, large• tions were continued for the establishment of ly influenced the Indians of his tribe to em the post, which might have been one of the fin• brace the same doctrine. The name of "Mis• est and most picturesque in the , sion" was given to the log church. By this but the project was abandoned and the troops name it was recognized until a town was estab• moved away. . lished one quarter of a mile to the westward, The name Lake Chelan is derivr.d from a and then the church became "Old Mission" and tribe of Indians at that period under command

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

of Chelan Jim, an athletic, belligerent young them. In making a perilous descent to the chief, who stood six foot two inches in his water's edge their cayuse fell over a precipiCe moccasins. He divided chieftanship with Wa• and was killed. Their stock of flour was scat• pato John, the leader of the more civilized ele• tered to the four winds of heaven. Unknown ment of the tribe which occupied the productive to Sanders and Dumke was the character of district on the northeastern side of the lake. these shores and they started down the lak To the trappers in the employment of the fur only to be checked· before they had proceeded a companies Lake Chelan had been known for mile by a bold headland rising sheer from the more than half a century. But the precipitous deep waters. They_ returned to a near-by stream character of its shores; the stern, inhospitable and here they found a large cedar log, and with nature of its mountain setting, long stood as a an axe they fashioned a rude canoe. This barrier against exploration. Following the de• stream is now known as Canoe Creek, while parture of Colonel Merriam's troops it became the brook where the cayuse was killed bears the known to the world that Lake Chelan was the name of that unfortunate animal, Prince. most magnificent body of fresh water within During this trying period Sanders . and the limits of the state of Washington. The Dumke lived upon such fish as they were able first white settlers along the lake were William to take with hook and line. Full of hardships Sanders and Henry Dumke. Sanders had serv• and adventure was the voyage down the lake. ed as a guide to the engineering parties under So closely as possible they hugged the shore, Major Roger and Engineer Stevens. In r886 frequently swamped and chilled to the bone by he left "Wild Goose" Bill's ferry, on the Col• the icy waters. Reaching ,the mouth of the umbia, in a skiff. He came across Dumke near lake, hungry and ragged, they were fed by the mouth of the Nespelem. The latter was a Indians. Subsequently these two men "squat• cheerful optimist, born and bred to western life ted" upon homesteads. Settlers drifted into in its severest phases. He was, at this time, the vicinity. Dumke, as full of schemes as living in a tent and engaged spasmodically in was ever Colonel Sellers, declared his intention placer mining by means of which he had accu• of erecting a saw mill. The settlers only smil• mulated a bunch of dust which he estimated to ed at him, but it was a .smile of sympathy for be worth $7, but which weighed out only $r.so. his proverbial impecuniosity. But Dtlinke went Sanders and Dumke pooled their issues for a westward and when he returned he had the trip of exploration through the Cascade moun• saw mill. He had interested a Portland firm tains. All in all Sanders had $2.5Ci, and with in the enterprise; they had "staked" him to a this he purchased some flour and bacon. Then portable mill and loaned him money with which they traded the skiff off for a cayuse upon to set it up. Choosing a site at Crane's Falls whose patient back they packed their small be• he loaded the mill on a scow and went sailing longings and started up the Methow in search up the lake. About that period a Mr. \iVoodin of a trail through the mountains. Thus they had gone in with his mill, and there was great arrived at the head of Lake Chelan. Then rivelry for the honor of sawing the initial stick came two weeks of perilous climbing over of timber in the Chelan country. vVoodin w.on; rough ridges and across deep canyons. They the first slab, appropriately inscribed, was for• cut their way through underbrush; they lived warded to Dumke up the lake. chiefly upon game and fish; they came out upon The latter had a run of hard luck with his a precipitous mountain; they gazed. upon the mill. Tradition tells the story of his or, lake sparkling in the summer sunshine far be• rather; several stories. One of tlie low them. And here misfortune overtook plausible is that when the water was turned

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

to the wheel the mill ran backward; others say first orchard and farm. H. N. Merritt is an• that the penstock was knocked to pieces. But other Chelan pioneer, settling there in r888, at no lumber w:as ever cut and the Portland firm a point now known as Merritt's Harbor, about took back the machinery. twenty miles up the lake on the south shore Another, among the earliest settlers on this Here Mr. Merritt erected a comfortable cabin,. · beautitul lake, was I. A. Navarre. In April, hung the latch-key outside and entertained r888, Messrs. Johnson, Hardenberg and Smith many a tired and hungry hunter or prospector. from Nebraska, with their families, came upon The Entiat Valley has a history that is not the east bank of the Columbia, just across from without great interest. Elder T. J. the mouth of the Chelan river. There was no and his estimable wife were the pioneers of ferry. The men of the party went down to this district. Their daughter, Dema, is the old• Badger Mountain, near Waterville, leaving est white child born in this beautiful valley. their families in camp, and there they cut tim• For many years Elder Cannon, besides work• ber for a raft. Hauling it to camp it was put ing industriously with his hands, faithfully together and the party landed safely on the preached the gospel in the neighborhood. Chelan shore, selected homesteads and settled Where the Wenatchee river flows into the by the lake. L. H. Woodin, of Minneapolis, Columbia has been the council ground in ages in July, r888, procured a skiff at Chelan and past for the war chiefs of the Chelans, Okano• made a trip of exploration to the head of the gans, Umatillas, Columbias, Spokanes, Yaki• lake. The tributary timber was the object of mas, Walla Wallas, Malheurs and even tribes his close examination. Returning he looked from so far east as the Bannocks and Nez over the immense water power and the adja• . Perces. The heads of these nations, or tribes, cent agricultural lands. Mr. Woodin decided assembled here in solemn council with Chief that here were natural resources of which he, Moses, and his remote ancestors, on the banks and others, might profitably avail themselves. of the Columbia, a natural or common meeting From Ellensburg, the nearest railway station, ground. he brought in his saw mill, the successful com• During the troubles of 1877 and r878 with petitor of Mr. Dumke's, farther up the lake. Chief Jos<;ph we learn that five hundred In• Until about r886 the region of Lake Che• dians, decked in war-paint, congregated here lan was thinlysettled. The history of Wash• and were about to ·join in an outbreak, but ington shows that settlement has closely fol• were held in check by the wily Moses and his· lowed the lines of transportation, and the Che• personal followers, who were friendly to the lan country was considerably north of such whites at that time. transportation; the greater portion of Okano• To the Wenatchee Valley, about r872, came gan county was enbraced in Indian reservation. Norwegian named Tolefson, and for twenty When the United States government, in years he made his home there, living the life r88I, established a post called Camp Chelan, it of a . His past life had been a tragedy. built a road from the eastward which has since Shortly before his arrival in this district Tolef• been used. Judge I. A. Navarre came, with his son was a prosperous fisherman at Bomsdal, family, across the mountains from North Yaki:• Norway. He owned a of small fishing ma, settling a few miles up the south shore of boats and was looked upon as one of the the lake, at Rose Beach. Judge Navarre was wealthiest citizens of that little fishing hamlet. in search of an ideal cattle ranch, not townsites.. \i\Tithin one week all of his family died and So rapidly did incoming settlers·crowd in that Tolefson was arrested on a charge of poisoning the ranch was crowded out, giving way to the them. He was released, but was soon to be re- 43

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

.arrested. One day he set out in a small fish• Freer's trading post, September 2, of the same ing boat to escape from his native land. Event• year. They remained in the cabin that ually he reached America. For years he raised with Alex Brender, on Brender Creek, above grapes and manufactured wine in the We• Mission, where they homesteaded a piece e5f natchee Valley. land two and one-half miles below. the present In r892, twenty years after Tolfson's ar• town of Mission, which bears the· name of rival in this country, his mother-in-law con• Brown's Flat, (Monitor Postoffice.) The fessed that she had administered the fatal poi• following spring Brown returned to Vancouver :son, and that she had intended to give Tolef• where he was married. He came back the :son the largest portion of it. The modern Bor• same year, r885, James L. \iVeythman return• gia was arrested and advertisements inserted ing with him, who located a homestead of r6o to apprise Tolefson of the fact that his 'inno• acres adjoining Brown's place. They had cence was established. Circulars were sent to many experiences of an eventful nature, as they the police department throughout this conn• were compelled to haul "all their provisions try. The police of learned of Tolef• from Ellensburg, a distance of sixty-seven son's whereabouts and notified a friend of his miles. On these journeys they were obliged to who lived near Ballard. This friend, Erickson, cross the icy waters of the. Wenatchee river by name, at once notified Tolefson, and that four times on the round trip. On one occa• gentleman immediately left for his old home in sion they upset their wagon in the water while Norway. returning from Ellensburg, depositing their One of the early settlers in what is now load of freight in the river. A brood sow which Chelan county was Freer, who took they had in a box floated down the current a up his abode on the land fronting the Columbia. mile or more, when it landed against a pile of river, near Wenatchee, in r873. Freer married driftwood and was rescued. an Indian vvoman and lived here ·until r877, In July, r89r, the many rumors of proba• when he died. ble railway extension to Wenatchee concen• The first white settler in Wenatchee Valley trated into some semblance of fact. The Great is said to have been an Indian trader named Northern Company officially announced that McBride. Where the thriving town of We• the road would follow up the Wenatchee Val• natchee now stands he conducted an Indian ley, crossing the Cascades at· . trading post. In r876 he was -followed· by Its map was recm ded in the local land office Samuel C. Miller, who became the first perma• at Waterville; . all doubts werdispelled; real nent settler in the valley. Mr. Miller was fol• estate advanced. During. the construction 'of lowed in turn by Jacob H. Miller, E. D. Hin• this road, in October, 1892, a terrible accident man, H. S. Simmons, Philip l\1iller, George occurred, Monday morning, October 24, at Blair, Conrad Rose and many others. Agricul 8 :30 o'clock, the had reached and crossed tural pursuits were engaged in by a majority the second bridge over the Wenatchee river, of these pioneers, who utilized for irrigation thirteen miles from the town. The enofthe purposes the uncertain supply of water from train and the track-layers had just cleared the the hillsides. bridge. This left three cars loaded with steel N. A. Brown and Thomas Owen walked rails on the center of the bridge. There was a from Vancouver, Washington, with their blan• sharp, su

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

of the river. A coupling broke on the west a sub-commonwealth to be known as Wenat• side, leaving two cars on that end of the bridge. chee county, comprising territory south of On the east side a fourth car tipped its load of Lake Chelan, with southern boundaries 11early steel down into the awful chasm on to the un• identical with those of the present county. But fortunate men vvho had gone down with the the legislature of 1892-3 adjourned without three other cars. This _fourth car, also, broke action in this direction. At this unexpected loose and hung suspended over the yawning outcome many citizens were, naturally, sorely gulf. Immediately the work of recovering the disappointed. Still, there was subsequent con• bodies of. the victims of this terrible accident solation in the fact that eventually victory came began. Of the fourteen who made the awful out of defeat, and efforts then . put forth in plunge, only six were alive. Seven were taken behalf of the project were not barren of result. out dead; one .body was not discovered until Messrs. Chase and Gunn, who had been in the following day. The ninth unfortunate died charge of the project at Olympia for six weeks, followil)g the amputation of his leg. Their ·returned to Wenatchee. Their efforts to ob• names were: John Johnson, James 'vVright, tain home government awakened syJ11pa.thy, Daniel ·Wakux, Nelson Nelson, Joseph Brady, and the cause was not permitted to languish. A. Olson, ]. J. , J. Linville, and John The efforts of Representative George W. Kline Leonard, conductor. The wounded were: J. were ably seconded by a number of friend , Robertson, skull injured and chest torn open both in and out of the legislative body, and the by a steel rail; George Nelson, deep gash. in Vvenatchee Chelan 'and Entiat countries be- the abdomen; Charles Anderson, serious bruis• came as w'ell known and understood as any es about the body, and right arm broken; other portion of the state. Robert Anderson, internally in jured and h ad . In June, 1894, a conservative estimate badly cut; A. Maxwell, struck in the eye by placed the height of the at fifty• a fish-plate and both shoulders dislocated; C. four feet above low-water mark. The main James, caught under a falling tie and badly street in Lakeside was under water, and the brt1ised about the body; Henry Payne, scalp waves surged up as high as the porch of the cut open from above the right eye to the back Lakeview House. At Knapp's ferry a newly of the head. A coroner's jury rett1rned a ver.: painted house belonging to Captain . Griggs, of diet to the effect that this fatal accident was Virginia City, was carried away together with caused by improper construction of the bridge. its contents. Tons of rock were piled upon the The fall of 1872 was accentuated by an bridge across the Chelan river. Nearly every earthquake, causing a cliff from a mountain, farm along the Columbia river bottom was about twenty miles up the river from vVenat• flooJed, the water being higher than ever be• chee to slide into the Columbia. This ob• fore known. People living on the banks saw, struction caused the river to "back up," aside from vast quantities of driftwood, dwell• acting in the nature of a coffer dam, and the ing houses, churches, sawmills, outbuild• great Columbia ran dry for several hours, the ings, etc., going down on the breast of this entire bed being exposed. The time at which stupenduous flood. ]. H. Hintermister, Dr. this remarkable phenomel?-on occurred was . A. S. Hayley, A. Vv. LaChapelle and Louis E. eleven o'clock at night. At daylight, the fol• Dart were an10ng those whose places were over- . lowing morning, the river bed was still destitute flowed, their crops ruined, their fruit trees, out• of water. When the stream broke loose it came buildings, and in some cases their residences n\shing dowr{ in a column fifteen feet high. carried away. The town of Chelan escaped Early in 1893 efforts were made to create without material damage, but a large portion

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

of Chelan Falls was under water. It was a veyed and opened by executive order of Presi• period of sore trail and incalculable damage dent Cleveland. The allotments of the Indians throughout the county. had not been made, but as they held land of This flood was caused by a very heavy great value it was soon applied for by the snowfall the previous winter, the heaviest ever whites, and their filings were allowed by the witnessed in the . The spring register and w; eiver at Waterville. A pro• was decidedly cool with no warm weather un• tracted fight resulted between the Indians and til May r, when the weather suddenly turn• the whites. ed warm. All streams between the Pacific coast "Long Jim, as hereditary chief, occupied a and the · Rockies were swollen out of their beautiful home at the mouth of Lake Chelan. banks. At Wenatchee the Columbia river Chelan Bob and Cultus Jim occupied land near reached 73 feet above low-water mark, rising where the Chelan river flows into the Colum• six inches above the Great Northern depot plat• bia. On this tract is a spring which furnishes form. At many points between Wenatchee water for irrigation. At the time this was and Columbia Siding, Douglas co.unty, a few thought to be an available towns!te. It was miles east of Rock Island, the railroad track claimed that LaChapelle drove Chelan Bob and was washed away. This caused the entire Cultus Jim away, appropriated their crops to track between Wenatchee and Columbia Siding his own use, and made complaint that the to be re-located above high water mark. Indians were dangerous characters. Finally a According to a decision handed down by company of troops were sent out under the Judge Hanford, of the United States Circuit direction of Indian Agent Hal Cole, who was court, in May, r897, three square miles qf cul• ordered to remove the Indians to the reserva• tivated lands in the vicinity of Lake Chelan, tion. They were incarcerated in the agency then occupied by white families, reverted back jail, but were finally released and a contest in to Indians. The action was brought in. the the land office ensued. The register and re• name of the United States against A. W. La• ceiver decided in favor of the white sett ers, Chapelle, but with this were consolidated seven but Secretary Noble, in r893 decided in favor other suits. The decision of Judge Hanford of the Indians. Secretary Hoke Smith, in applied to all of them. The white claimants, 1894, allotted the land embarced in the home• or defendants were A. W. LaChapelle, C. H. steads of LaChapelle and the other white claim• Abecrombie, Charles A. Barron, Enos B. ants to the Indians, directing the agent to Peaslee, John Francis Williams, S. P. Rich• oust the hite settlers and put the Indians in ardson and E. Larrabee. In explanation of possession. Chapelle sued out an injunc• this rather· hard decision the S pokesm.an-Re• tion against Captain Babb, acting Indian Agent view said: preventing him from removing him until after "The Columbia Indian reservation embraced trial. Judge Hanford permanently restrained the land at the head of Lake Chelan, and where the agent from interfering with the white set• the Chelan river flows into the Columbia. The tlers, reserving to the Indians, or the govern• government made a treaty with certain Indians' ment, the right to bring an action of ejectment who ceded this land to the government with for possession. the exception that it was agreed that Indian "The case just decided was an action of occupants not desiring to move to the Colville ejectment'bropght by the government against reservation might each obtain a square mile the white claimants. The case occupied where they then resided. Before the land was days in trying, the government being reDireE;efl1t':·:} allotted to the Indians the reservation was sur- ·d by Assistapt United States Attorney F.

HISTORY OF NORTH W.ASHINGTON.

Robertson, and the defendants by Blake & Post Moore's Point, and at the extreme head of and Mr. , of Seattle. R. W. Starr, who the lake. · Judge Navarre, who came down was then register of the land office at Water• from ten miles up Twenty-five Mile Creek, said ville, conducted the case before the land office that prospectors in that vicinity declared that on behalf of the Indians. The court sustained the creek, one of the largest tributaries of the the contention of the government that the lake, went dry for the space of three hours, white settlers having sought to file on lands in afterward resuming its natural flow. 'It was a possessio1,1 of Indians against their will, and phenomenon that has not since been repeated protest, were. trespassers, and acquired 110 and is attributed to a volcanic upheaval. rights. In 1899 another, and more successful step "The matter has been in constant litigation was taken toward the organization of Chelan since 1890. In the meantime the v.rhite claim• county as it exists today. Following is the or• ants have made improvements of considerable ganic act: value. Two of the Indians, Long Jim and Che• "An act to· create the County of Chelan lan Bob, were born on the land formerly oc• subject to the requirements of the State Con• cupied by them, and the wife of Cultus Jim stitution and statutes in respect to the estab• was born there. They testified that their fa• lishment of new counties : thers' fathers had land there for generations. "Be it enacted· by the Legislature of the The testimony was that the whites came in State of Washingtoh: 1890. Prior to that time the rights of the "Section r. All those portions of the coun• Indians had been respected by the whites in ties of·Kittitas and Okanogan described as fol• that locality for half a century, the Indians re• lows, towit: Beginning at the point of inter• fusing tempting offers to buy them off." section of the middle of the main channel of A most peculiar phenomenon was witnessed the Columbia river with the fifth standard par• on Lake Chelan about nineteen miles above the allel north, thence running west along said mouth, in September, 1899. A singular up• fifth standard parallel north to the point where heaval of the glassy surface of the lake to a said fifth standard north intersects the summit height, apparently, of from six to ten feet, was of the main divide between the waters flowing witnessed by H. A. Graham, while at the place northerly and easterly into the Wenatchee and belonging to E. F. Christie. This was fot• Columbia rivers, and the waters flowing south• lowed by a tidal wave inshore. It was fully erly and westerly into the Yakima river, thence six feet high and drove the little steamer, Kit• in a general northwesterly direction along the ten, moored there, upon the rocks. The re• summit of said main divide between the waters ceeding of the waves caused the vessel to cap• flowing northerly and easterly into the We• size and sink. For fully two hours succeeding natchee and Columbic.., rivers and the waters waves continued to lash the shore, but finally flowing southerly and westerly into the Yakima the lake became quiescent. There was, at the river, following the course of the ct:;nter of the time, not a capfull of wind from any direction. summit of the watershed dividing the said re• T. R. Gibson said that at Mountain Park, four spective waters, to the center of the sum• miles east, the wave from this upheaval was not mit of the Cascade mountains; at the east• over a foot in height, and was twenty minutes ern boundary line of King county; thence reaching the shore of the lake from the center north along the east boundary of King, of disturbance. Officers of the steamer Dexter, Snohomish and Skagit counties to the point which assisted in raising the sunken Kitten, along the said east boundary of Skagit county, ·reported that the wave vvas quite noticeable at where said boundary is intersected by the water

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

shed between the waters flowing northerly and have been compiied with that the county of easterly into the Methow river and the waters Chelan shall be deemed fully established;- Pro• flowing southerly and westerly into Lake Che- vided)- That said petition shall be accompanied Ian; thence in a general southeasterly direction by a good and sufficient bond to said superior along the summit of the main divide between judge to be approved by him in the sum of the waters flowing northerly and easterly into $J,OOO to cover costs of proceedings under this the Methow river and the waters flowing west- act in case the said county shall not be estab• erly and southerly into Lake Chel

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

truly and impartially, and thereupon he, or vided, That in the accounting between the said they, shall take such enumeration and return counties neither county shall. be charged with the same verified by his affidavit, to the effect ·any debt or liability incurred in the purchase of that he believes the same to be a true and cor.,• any county property or the purchase of any rect enUJ;neration of suci1 county, or as the case county building which shall fall within and be may be, of the portions of such county as to retained by the other county. which the same relates, in such court, and to file "Sec. 7· The county seat of said Chelan the same in such court within one month after county is hereby located at the town of We• such enumeration has been completed. natchee, and shall there remain until the sarpe "Sec. 4· If it shall be shown to the satis• shall be removed in accordance with the pro• faction of such judge of the superior court of visions of law. Okanogan county that there are two thousand "Sec. 8. Until otherwise classified said or more inhabitants within the boundaries here• county of Chelan is hereby desigi1ated as be• in set forth for the county of Chelan, and that longing to the twenty-sixth class there shall remain four thousand or more in• "Sec. 9· Dennis Strong, of Mission, Wash• habitants in the reri1aining portions of Kittitas ington, Spencer Boyd, of Chelan, Washington, and Okanogan counties, respectively, thereup• and G. W. Hoxsey, of Leavenworth, Wash• on he shall make a decree setting forth the fact ington, shall be the first board of county that the provisions of the Constitution of the commissioners of Chelan county, who shall State of Washington have been complied with. meet at the county seat of said Chelan county: Upon the filing of such decree it shall be the within thirty days from the date of the gover• duty of the clerk of such court to make and nor's said proclamation, as hereinbefore pro• transmit to the board of county commissioners vided, and shall qualify as such county com• of Kittitas and Okanogan counties, respective• missioners by filing their oath of office with the ly, a certified copy thereof, and also a certified judge of the superior court, who shall ap• copy thereof to the governor of the state, and prove their bond in the manner provided by to the secretary of state. law; Provided, howeve1', That if any of the "Sec. 5· I.mmediately upon receipt of said above named commissioners shall fail to quali• certified copy of the decree of the superior court fy within the time specified, then the governor of Okanogan county the governor shall make a shail appoint a bona fide resident and qualified proclamation declaring the county of Chelan elector of said Chelan county to fill the vacancy.· fully established. "Sec. ro. Such commissioners shall di• "Sec. 6. The county of Chelan shall assume vide their county into precincts, townships and and pay to the <;ounties of Kittitas and Okan• districts as provided for by the laws then ex• ogan, respectively, its proportion of the bonded isting, making only such changes as are ren• and warrant indebtedness of each of said coun• dered necessary by the altered condition of the ties, respectively, in the proportions that the boundaries occasioned by the segregation from assessed valuation of that part of Chelan coun• the original counties. ty lying within the present boundaries of Kit• "Sec. I. In all townships, precincts, school titas and Okanogan counties respectively bears and road districts which retain their old boun• to the assessed valuation of the whole of Kitti• daries the officers thereof shall retain their tas and Okanogan counties respectively. The respective offices in and for such new. county adjustment of said indebtedness shall be based until their respective terms of office expire, or upon the assessment for the year 1893; Pro-:- until their successors are elected and qualified,

68o HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

and shall give bonds to Chelan county of the boundaries of ·· said Kittitas and Okanogan same amount and in the same manner as had counties respectively. previously been given to the original county. "Sec. 17. Within sixty days after the "Sec. 12. Execpt as provided in the pre• governor's proclamation, as hereinbefore pro• ceding section such commissioners shall be vided, the county auditors of Kittitas and authorized and required to appoint all of the Okanogan counties, respectively, shall tran• county officers of the county organized under scribe from the records of said counties, re• the provisions of this act, and of which they are spectively, all records and all papers and docu• commissioners, and the officers thus appointed ments on file in anywise affecting the title of shall commence to hold their office immediately any real estate or property, real or personal, upon their appointment and qualification ac• situated within the county of Chelan, and the cording to law, and shall hold their offices until county commissioners of . Chelan county shall the second Monday of January, 1901, or until provide at the expense of the county, proper their successors are elected and qualified. and suitable record books to which such rec• Sec. 13. Until otherwise provided by law ords shall be transcribed by the auditors of said Chelan county shall be, and hereby is, Kittitas and Okanogan counties, in legible attached to the district composed of Okanogan writing, and said record books and papers shall Douglas, Lincoln, Ferry and Adams counties, be delivered to the auditor of Chelan county for juducial purposes. and said records and documents so transcribed "Sec. 14. The board of county commis• shall be accepted and received as evidence in all sioners at a regular meeting held within one courts and places as if the same had been orig• year from the time when they shall qualify as inally recorded or filed in the office of the audi• commissioners of the said county of Chelan, by tor of Chelan county. an order duly entered in the minutes of their "Sec. 18. All actions and proceedings proceedings, shall divide Chelan county into which shall be pending in the superior courts three commissioners' districts in the manner of Kittitas and Okanogan counties at the time provided by law, and designate the boundaries of the governor's proclamation hereinbefore thereof, and at the next general election in said referred to, affecting the title or possession of county there shall be elected three commission• real estate in Chelan county, or in which one ers, one from each of said distrids; the commis• or all parties are residents of Chelan county, sioner for district number one to be elected for shall be transferred to the superior court of four years and the commissioners for districts Chela1c, ounty, and all further proceedings number two and three for two years. had .therein shall be in Chelan county the same "Sec. 15. For the purpose of representa• as if originally commenced in that county. All tion in the legislature until otherwise provided other actions or proceedings, civil or criminal, by law, the county of Chelan shall be included now pending in the superior courts of Kittitas in the first senatorial district, and shall con• and Okanogan counties, shaii be prosecuted to stitute the 5 Ist legislative district. termination thereof in the superior courts of "Sec. 16. Until the county of Chelan is or• Kittitas and Okanogan counties, respectively. ganized by the appointment and qualification "Sec. 19. All pleadings, process; docu• of its officers, the jurisdiction of the present ments and files in the offices of the county officers of Kittitas and Okanogan counties re• . clerks of Kittitas and Okanogan counties af• spectively, shall reman in full force and effect fecting pending suits and proceedings to be in those portions of the territory constituting transferred as provided in the preceding sec• the said county of Chelan, lying within the . tion of this act, shall be transferred, and all

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON. 68r

records therein transcibed by the county clerks legislature from Okanogan county. Arthur of Kittitas and Okanogan counties, respective• Gunn and Frank Reeves were on the ground at ly, and transmitted to the county clerk of Che• Olympia all the time the measure was pending, lan county, after said clerk shall have entered and did yeoman service in furthering the inter• upon the duties of said office. ests of the bill. "Sec. 20. All records, papers and docu• By the bill introduced in the house the new ments of record on file in the offices of the county was to be named "Wenatchee," and this county clerks of Kittitas and Okanogan coun• bill passed the house in this shape. However, ties, respectively, in anywise affecting the title when it came before the senate Senator Baum, or possession of real estate in Chelan county, of Okanogan county, amended the bill to read shall be transcribed and transferred to the "Chelan county," and this passed the senate county · cle1;k of Chelan county by the county and was concurred in by the house. clerks of Kittitas and Okanogan counties, re• In accordance with the requirements of the spectively, and said records and documents state constitution, a petition requesting the for• when so transcribed and transferred shall be mation of a new county addressed to the legis• received as evidence in a]l courts and places lature was, with the exception of three persons, as if originally recorded and filed, as the case signed by every legal voter in the territory of may be, in the county of Chelan.. the proposed new county. "Sec. 21. All records so transcribed shall According to the bill creating Chelan be certified by the officer transcribing the same county it was necessary that there should be under the seal of his office in the manner fol• left in Okanogan county at least four thousand lowing, to wit : Each book of transcribed rec• people, and that here should be at least two ords shall be certified to be a correct transcript thousand in the new county. In May, 1899, of the records of Kittitas or Okanogan county, a census was taken by the assessors of Okano• as the case may be, contained therein, describ• gan county with the following result: ing in the certificate the office in Kittitas or Okanogan county from which the same· were Johnson Creek, north ...... '. 930 transcribed, and each officer so transcribing Johnson Creek, south ...... 432 shall finally certify to the completeness of all Reservation, whites ...... 325 records so transcribed by him. Reservation, Indians ...... 415 "Sec. 22. The county of Chelan shall pay Methow Country ...... 737 to the counties of Kittitas and Okanogan, re• spectiveJy, for the transcribing of all records, at the 'rate of ten cents for each one hundred words, including in the computation the certifi• Chelan Country ...... 776 cate thereto. Entiat Country ...... r65 "Passed the House February 27, 1899. Wenatchee & Leavenworth ...... 380 Passed the Senate March 8, 1899. Approved March 13, 1899." 1,321 This bill was introduced by Representative Total population of Okanogan county 4,r6o M. E. Field; of Stehekin, upon request. Three men who were especially prominent in the for• This would leave only 2,839 people in mation of the new county were Arthur Gunn Okanogan county in case of division. But in and Frank Reeves, .of Wenatchee, and Repre• August, r899, Judge Neal, holding court at sentative Frank Baum, then a member of the Conconully, Okanogan county, ordered a

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

special census of the Methow country taken. oner. James HChase had been previously From this it appears that the result was satis• appointed prosecuting attorney. at the meeting factory, and some different from former esti• held in the office of the Bell hotel. mates, as in November, 1899, we find Judge \Afednesday, February 14, news was re• Neal at Davenport, Lincoln county, entering a ceived that the Wenatchee Development Com• . decree to the effect that the requirements of the pany had held a meeting the day previous and state constitution and the act creating Chelan decided to donate a brick hotel building in county had been complied ith. · . vVenatchee to the new county for a court house, Thursday, December 7, 1899, Governor a stru\JUre costing over $15,000. The fol• Rogers issued his proclamation setting off and lowing completes the record of this act of pub• establishing Chelan county. A dispatch from• lic spirited generosity: Olympia stated that H. N. Martinof Dav.en• "Seattle, Wash., February 14, 1900. port, attorney for the people in the upper por "Arthur Gunn, Wenatchee: tion of Okanogan county, would contest the "At a stockholders' meeting of the formation of the new county and try to bring Wenatchee Development Company, held at the matter before the supreme court of the Seattle February 13, 1900, it was voted to state. The grounds upon which this action convey to Chelali county lots IS, I6, I7 and I8, was based were that the provision in the bill block 29, Great Northern plat of Wenatchee, naming the county commissioners was uncon• and the brick hotel building thereon, for pur• stitutional, in that it took from the governor pose of court house, subject to reversion to his prerogative of those appointments. Noth• company in case of removal of county seat ing, however, appears to have resulted from from Wenatchee, or in case the property shall this attempt to defeat the creation of Chelan cease to be usd at any time for county court county. house. June 6, 1900, Dennis Strong, of Mission, "THOMAS BuRKE, Preside1tt. " and Spencer Boyd, of Chelan, bvo of the com• missioners named in the act creating the This handsome offer was accepted with due ocunty, met in the office of the Bell hotel. G. appreciation, and the deed made over Febru-. vV. Hoxey, the other commissioner, was ab• ary 19, 1900. sent. The two commissioners present pro• February 23 the commrsswners made ceeded to organize, and Mr. Strong was elected Conrad Rose, of Shell Rock farm, near \Afen• chairman. J. E. Porter was selected to act as atchee, a member of the board of commissioners, temporary clerk of the board. At this meeting to fill the place of Mr. Hoxsey, who had faile(i James H. Chase was named as prosecuting at• to qualify. Chelan made final settlement with torney. Little business was transacted at this Okanogan county, August 7, 1900, and issued preliminary meeting, and it soon adjourned. to the latter county seven hundred and sev• January 22 the two commissioners met in the enty-seven $100, six per cent. warrants, or J. W. Ferguson building, Wenatchee, and ap• $77,000. In the settlement with Kittitas county, pointed the following county officials : H. A. from which ali that portion of Chelan Graham, Chelan, treasurer; F. F. Keller, south of the Wenatchee river was taken, Stehekin, sheriff; L. V. Weiis, \1\f enatchee, Ian county assumed $29,000 of its bonded county clerk and ex-officio clerk of court; C. debtedness bearing interest at six per ·cent. J. Trow, Chelan, auditor; Alexander Pitcher,' Prior to the completion of the assessor; John D. Atkinson, superintendent of Cascade the Great Northern schools; Dr. A. A. Tozer, Leavenworth, cor- Company utilized a "switch back" in

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

its trains over these ·mountains. The building pose of taking on wood. Having done so she of this tunnel was an extraordinary engineer• backed out into the river, made the turn and ing feat. The eastern terminal of this cavern, headed down·the Columbia. As her bow struck two and one-half miles long, is Cascade Tun• the current she began to twist, and finally nel, in Chelan county, while the western is rolled completely over iri twenty-five feet of Wellington, in King county. The altitude of water. No satisfactory explanation of this ac• Cascade Tunnel is 3,375 feet, the altitude of cident has ever been given. The boat backed Wellington being 3,125 feet, making a differ• out under the slow bell, and at the time the ence of 2 50 feet in the elevation of the two en• engines were not working, the custom being trances. to permit the current to swing the boat around, W.ork on the approaches to the tunnel be• When broadside with the current the Camano gan in January, 897, 'but it was late in the listed and it is supposed the cargo shifted,· as summer of that year before the workmen got she rolled over and remained in that position fairly under cover, and had the compressor for some time. Later she righted and finally plants for running the drill machinery in• drifted on her side, landing on the rocks at the stalled. Eight hundred men ,¥ere employed in head of Entiat r pids, nearly a mile below and about the tunnel, work going forward where the accident occurred. The story of from each end simultaneously. The greater Chief Engineer Schuenman is as follows : portion of the excavation was accomplished by "The boat went over without any warning. machinery. Thirty-two rock drills, driven by I was standing in the engine room when it compressed air, were employed to bore large sank, and started .for the door, finally swim• and deep holes in the rock at the end of the ming out, and I clung to the side of the hull workings. Charges of dynamite were then till the boat came bottom up, when I managed inserted and fired, the blocks of granite crumb• to crawl onto her. I looked around and saw led to pie es, loaded on electric cars· and con• three or four of the boys hanging onto the veyed out each end of the tunnel. Outside the boat. After all that were in sight were safe on · tunnel the rock was delivered to a large crusher the overturned boat I saw the life raft go by with a capacity of forty tons per hour, which and made a jump and swam to it, where I was converted it into fragments. These were joined by three others." mixed with sand and Portland cement, taken P. Stoffel, the , said: back into the tunnel by the electric railway and "When the boat went over I was caught used to line the interior of the tunnel with an under the railing, and went clear under the imperishable wall of concrete four feet in thick• craft before I succeeded in releasing myself. ness. The tunnel is twenty-three feet high by I immediately to clear the wreck, find was sixteen feet wide. Huge exhaust fans, driven coming to the surface, struck an obstruction, by electricity, and a system of pipes kept the air and thinking I. was still under the boat I dove of this tunnel always pure and sweet during the again, although nearly suffocated. I came up construction of this gigantic enterprise. They a few feet further on and saw that I had struck have since been taken out. the life-boat on coming up the first time. I was Tuesday, May 27, 1902, the steamer Ca• assisted on to the raft by the chief engineer, and mano, Captain Barrett commanding, was was taken off by a skiff some distance clown the wrecked near Entiat Landing, the mate, A. river." Doval, drowned, and the crew, consisting of \iVilliam O'Donnell also had a narrow es• twelve men, narrowly escaping with th.eir lives. cape, being pulled through a window that was The Camano had made the landing for the pur- so small he could barely get through. Great

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

presence of mind and personal bravery were the side of the skiff and were picked up by the shown by Captain Barrett, he saving the lives steamer Echo, more than a mile below." of two men himself. Mate Doval, who was Deceinber 5, 1902, Vv. R. Wanzer, a civil lost, was never seen after the capsizing of the engineer, residing in Seattle, and two helpers, steamer. It is supposed that he was injured H. Cooley and Matthew Martin, both of in some way and was unable to help himself to Blewett, met with a tragic death. They were a place of safety. Some of the survivors were engaged in surveying thsite of a new power picked up by the ferrymen at that point, who plant for the Wenatchee Electric Light and witnessed the accident and hastened to the res• Power Company. While in a boat they were cue, succeeding in saving all those on the life• swept over the falls of the Wenatchee river in raft and those who were clinging to the bot• Tumwater . tom of the capsized craft. Tuesday, January 20, 1903, a serious wreck Wednesday, September 4, 1902, the occurred on the Gr.eat Northern railway, five steamer North Star, owned by Wenatchee par• miles west of Chiwaukum. Twelve people ties, was sunk just above the Entiat rapids, people were killed and as many more seriously near where the Camano was wrecked. She injured, aside from the destruction of thous- . struck a rock on the east side of the river, op• ands of dollars' worth of property. This ter• posite the rapids. There was a rush for life• rible accident was the result of a tail-end col• belts, the boats were launched and all escaped lision between an extra freight and a rotary in safety. Some of the more impatient pas• snow plow, at a sharp curve in what is known sengers gained the shore by swimming. A as Happy Hollow. participant in this wreck relates his experi• Through the coolness and daring of an ex• ence: fireman named Abbott, what might have been a "The boat was climbing up what is known horrible catastrophe in the ascade tunnel, as the 'race track,' and going into the eddy Thursday, February 5, 1903, was prevented. too far, caught the current broadside arid rush• When nearly through the tunnel Number 4 ing across the narrow channel, struck a huge the east bound overland train became stalled, rock amidship and stove a large hole in the remaining in that condition for over an hour. hull. The boat hung on the rock, but filled rap• From beathing the deadly gas that had accu• idly. The captain instructed all hands to get mulated the entire train crew and many of the life belts and ordered the small boat launched. passengers vvere pa.rtially asphyxiated. \iVill• One load of passengers were landed and before iam Doyle, fireman, had his left leg badly the boat could return the steatner careened and burned from falling against the fire box of the those still remaining thought that she was go'• engine, through the effects of the deadly gas. ing over, and they all jumped off into the rag• \iVith the assistance of fellow passengers R. 0. ing torrent, where the waves were running five Sturgeon saved the conductor of the train, who or six feet high. There ·were twelve· or fifteen· was found on the ground, overcome by the persohs who jumped into the river. One lady fumes and carried into the smoker. Mr. Stur• did not get away in the first boat and she geon said: jumped into the water with the rest of them. "When almost through the tunnel the A skiff then put off from shore and began to helper broke from the train .and the crew while pick up those who were struggling in the trying to make her fast were overcome by water. Four men reached shore without as• gases. The air tube was broken .and, of course sistance, the rest, including the lady, clung to that set the brakes, and until the air could b

HISTORY OF NORTH ·wASHINGTON. 68s

cut out our engine could neither go ahead nor of the engineer and fireman and succeeded in back up. I was in the smoker at the time cutting the air and: backing the train out of the and did not become alarmed until the tunnel, but as soon as we had stopped the train brakeman opened the door of our car and fell on at the station he fell from his seat exhausted. the floor in a dead faint. Being a fireman myself, We worked over the men for about two hours I knew something was wrong and lighting and succeeded in reviving them, and then with the brake• man's lantern started out and found the assistance of another engine securely the con• ductor and helped him into. our car. chained, we came through the tunnel an on Ex-fire• man Abbott, a passenger, went to the 'our way east." assistance

CHAPTER II.

DESCRIPTIVE.

At the time of present writing, Chelan, tute for .the succulent grasses upon which cat• with an area of 3,070 square miles, is the lat• tle thrive. Vvater could be found only in. the est organized county in the state of Washing• valleys along the mountain streams, but these ton. That portion of its territory north of the were so much lower than the average of Wenatchee river was taken from Okanogan the land it was thought it would never avail county; the part south of that river from Kitti• much more than to afford water for cattle, tas county. The census of 1900 gave Chelan horses or bands of sheep, which were then per• county a population of 3,931. The school cen• mitted to roam at large in search·of food. But sus of 1903 shows an increase of ninety-two along the streams where this water could touch per cent., or a total population of 7,547. the sandy soil a surprising degree of fertility There is no other county within the limits was noticed; grasses grew rank and h.1xurious; of the state possessing the scenic attrations of the_ idea of irrigation was formulated in the Chelan; it has already attained a national celeb• minds of men, an idea that has expanded into rity. Properly the county rnay be divided into the· full fruition of the most sanguine hope3; two distinct sections, the Lake and Wenatchee an idea that has reclaimed hundreds of thous• Valley countries. The latter is almost entirely ands of acres of arid waste. devoted to irrigation, the results of which From· the inception of irrigation, fitst ex• have caused the country to be aptly chritened ploited by private enterprises, the Wenatch,ee "the land of the big, red apple." Twenty years country has made rapid progress... Whe_n the ago the whole of what is .now known as the wonder of creating f rtility of soil hy artifiCial Wenatchee country was thought to be a waste application o\water. had been amply demons• covered with only sage brush and scant forage tt·ated, a rush was made to sechre land that adapted to an exceedingly dry climate. As could not, at ope time,. be giyen away. Thete these grasses contained but little moisture. they was a sudden rise in values.. Where.. Ia:nds were hardly fit for pasturage; a poor substi- came under the bel).eficient irtflitence of ditches

GLACIERS AND GLACIER PEAK. THIRD HIGHEST PEAK IN WASHINGTON. THE LIGHT COLORED PORTION IS SOLID ICE.

RAINBOW FALLS NEAR THE . CHELAN FALLS OF CHELAN

686 HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

prices ran from $so to $roo per acre. Great beauties of this county center in Lake Chelan. orchards laden with an amount of fruit that Enthusiasts have amplified this assertion to in• seems almost impossible for slender limbs to clude the United States. And it is not for us bear without breaking, and fields of grain, who have fallen under the speii of this subtle' watered from ditches, that yield from 40 to 70 enchantment to gainsay them. The lake re• bushels to the acre sufficiently attest the many gion is at once grand, impressive and awe-com• advantages obtained froh1 such a water supply. pelling. Lake Chelan is situated in the north• Throughout the whole of Ch lan county ern part of Chelan county. It is, by United there are never any extremes of temperature; Sta{es government measurement sixty-eight cyclones, blizzards and severe storms of any miles long, and from one to three miles in description are unknown. A change of ten de• width, lying parailel with the northern bound• grees of temperature in 24 hours is considered ary of the county, which trends northwest .by a rare occurrence. By the soft winds from the southeast.· It is one of the deepest lakes in the Pacific ocean the climate is tempered, and while United States, which is practicaily the same as the days are sometimes warm in the summer saying in the world. Soundings give a depth. the atmosphere is dry, and the heat never op• of r642 feet. In "Six Thousand Miles pressive with the baleful humidity so common Through \Vonderland," Mr. 0. D. Wheeler in eastern states. Once in the shade, even the writes: slightest defense from the sun, and one is al• "Lake Tahoe has heretofore ranked as the ·ways cool in this climate, ·which is far from deepest lake in the United States, averaging being the case in many other localities. Nights from ,200 to ,400 feet, with a greatest depth are invariably cool and refreshing. The aver• of r,645 feet. Of European lakes there are age temperature for the winter months is 26 two deeper than Tahoe, viz: L"!-go -·-· ,.,, · to 28 degrees above ·zero, with light snows and Lago di Como, in Italy. It will thus along the river and lake front. Few days seen that Chelan is one of the few there are in winter when the temperature does lakes in the world, and further soundings not rise above freezing point, and it rarely serve to place it at _the head of the Jist in falls so low as zero. The annual rainfall is own country, at least." from 12 to IS inches, this precipitation being . Concerning the depth of this lake mainly during the spring and fall months. Steel, of the Unite States Ge logical There is an extensive mineral belt over fifty writes: miles wide crossing Lake Chelan. ·within this "To the Editor of the Sp'okesman zone are represented nearly all the precious You will remember that in 1886 I broke and commercial l'ninerals, ·with some of the record for deep water on the American largest deposits of gold-copper ores found in nent by sounding Crater Lake in the northwest. The same may be said of the , for the government. You vvill leaf-silver ores of the Horseshoe Basin camp, ber, also, of having invited me to vist on the headwaters of the Stehekin river. The Chelan a year or so later. I was very sorry ledges are strong and well defined, bearing all deed not to be able to do so, but am now the characteristics of true fissures, many of ining the Washington forest reserve for them extending for miles through the country. government, and in that capacity Particularly is this true of :the gold-copper sound the lake last Saturday. A steel line leads, whose values run far above the average sent me 2,560 feet long, all of which out of this class of ores. in the middle of the lak, without bottom. It may be truthfully said that the scenic Have just ordered more wire

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

everything necessary to do the work tho,r• peal; when its surrounding foot-hills and buttes oughly, and shall find that bottom under any are draped in spotless white; the mountain circumstances. This makes Chelan the third crags of the lower Cascades clad in evergreen deepest body of water in the world, outside of forests, overspread with winter's lace work, the ocean, the record standing: Lake Baikal, Truly it is an enchanted region, winter or sum• in Siberia, 4,000 feet; the Caspian Sea, 3,000 mer. No Pacific coast tourist should fail to feet; Lake Chelan, 2,560, plus-which means, visit Chelan, for it is to \Vashington what the we are after second place and have good hopes Yosemite Valley is to California. Steamers of beating the Caspian Sea. Before Saturday ply its entire length, passing, en route, a won• last Crater Lake held the third place. derful natural panorama. Owing to its pic• "W. G. STEEL. turesque and magnificent mountain environ• "U. S. Geological Survey." ment, combined with rare climatic conditions, Two years later it was discovered by the as well as the many side attractions of hunting, United States Geological Survey that there had fishing, boating, mining, recreation, etc., Lake been a kink in the steel line used by Mr. Steel, Chelan is yearly becoming more. famous as riv• and the actual depth of the lake was ascertained aling the most celebrated scenic attractions or to be something over r,6oo feet, thus placing more promin.ent health and pleasure resorts, Lake Chelan well up in among the deepest lakes either in the new or old world. It is the testi• in the world. mony of the inhabitants of the lake district that The water of Lake Chelan is of wonderful each year witnesses a doubling of the annual clarity and purity. Submerged boulders off tourist travel. It is not a matter of surprise shore may be easily seen at a_depth of between that upon such a magnificent sheet of water, 30 and 40 feet, but generally the immense amid a settting of such wonderful natural at• depth of water imparts to the surface of the tractions that there are places more ideally lake an inky blackness. Of the water's purity perfect than others for the purpose of resorts. it may be truthfully affirmed that whenever it Amid a multitude of pleasure, health and is dipped, near shore or far from lat1d, it con• wealth seekers different localities will naturally tains no trace of vegetable or organiC matter. appeal to different temperaments. People Precipitous and adamantine are the shores, have seized upon this fact, with the result that with here and there a low point jutting out, the shores of Lake Chelan boast of a number of strewn with boulders or covered with coarse tourists' resorts. Prominent among these are granite sand. The prevailing formation is Moore's and Stehekin, with innumerable camp• granite, with occasionally a limestone contact. ing localities between. On the eastern bank of the Columbia river A disciple of. the gentle Isaac Walton will basalt is common enough, but along the lake not find himself an incongruity along the not the smallest quantity is to be found. At fre• shores of Lake Chelan. He is the right.man in quent intervals a torrent comes leaping over the the right place. The sport is ample. There are cliffs, to be dissolved in a shimmering mass of in the state of Washington numerous streams spray and foam before it strikes the blue-black where trout-fishing is par excellence. But, as waters of the lake. with many other things, it is on Lake Chelan Whether clothed in summer verdure, cling• that the art of enticing several varieties of _ing vines and lovely blossoms, or when winter's trout from the ultramarine depths attains its snow comes scurrying through the air, Lake highest embodiment. There are two principal Chelan is stil incomparably beautiful. To many species of trout, the rainoow, or common lake he scenery of winter will more attractively ap- trout, and the "Dolly Varden," colloquially

688 HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

known as "bull trout." During the spring and Big Bend country, separated from that land fall months they take a troll as bait better than of mammoth wheat crops by the Columbia at other times. It is not an unusual thing for river. Through the Chelan river the lake drains parties to report a killing of from so to roo into the Columbia, the Chelan being about three pounds, the result of three or four hours fish• miles in length. Over a rocky bed the river ing. In the streams flowing into the lake, not• flows in its first reaches, thence plunging ably First Creek, Twenty-five Mile, Railroad into a canyon where it breaks into an avalanche and Fish creeks, are thousands of brook, or of cascades, falls and rapids.. Viewed from mountain trout, measuring from three to ten the road above or from the water's edge the inches in length. There is excellent fishing also sight is beautiful. Emerging from the mouth• in the headwaters of the Stehekin, Bridge of the canyon the stream plunges onward down· Creek and the Agnes. The last Washington to the bottom lands bordering the Columbia, legislature, ( 1902-3) made an appropriation leaping huge boulders and forming what is for a fish hatchery, which is now being erected known as Chelan Falls. Water power ex• at Stehekin, for the purpose of restocking the perts will realize the value of this stream when lake with its present varieties and, also, adding told that in the course of three miles the fall is to the list the great lake trout and Lake Super• over 376 feet. ior white fish. There is still another fish in the From the foot of the lake we obtain a view lake known as the cusk, a deep water fish, sel• exten:ding northwest twelve miles. This is not dom or never· seen alive, and which requires the end of the lake, although appearances deep sea fishing to secure. It is a claimed that would indicate it. Here where the view is ob• the cusk is quite destructive to trout. Several structed, it bends to the south, and it is this years ago a party of campers on Railroad sharp turn that obstructs our view. Perhaps Creek discovered a dead cusk floating among this first inspection of the lake is disappointing. some driftwood. The specimen was about two The crags, the mountain crests, the mighty feet in length, and had partially swallowed a domes and bluffs we came to see are not here, large bull trout. Being unable to complete the but farther up the lake. Let us take a boat-the deglutition or eject its prey from its mouth, winter boat, perchance the famous "Flyer.'' the cusk had succumbed to death. The craft creeps out upon the ultramarine blue, a The pen of the most clever word painter shade seen on waters only of stupendous fails utterly to even approach justice in an at• depths, and now the mountains and hills rise in tempted description of the manifold beauties lovv terraces, gentle, rounded, a scene which of Lake Chelan. The nearest approach to a may be described as pretty, but not yet sublime. graphic delineation- of its attractions is from This is only the preliminary of the witchery• the lips of an enthusiastic tourist, fresh from the transformation scene comes later. the scene. To be appreciated the lake must be The Flyer having made the first turn in the visited, must be traversed, taken into commun• lake we are brought face to face with banks in• ion of spirit, a heart-to-heart investigation of creasing in height, imposing, precipitous flanks. one of nature's most picturesque features. Let Do you see that mountain side on the left, the reader sail with us upon the waters of this as sheer and straight as a knife would mountain gem. through a mammoth cheese? There, We come full upon the lake at its south• ago, was a mighty avalanche, a slide that eastern extremity, its foot situated at the base posited the whole face of a gigantic and under the shadows of the lofty Cascades in the waters of the lake. Another turn to in eastern \iVashington. It lies just beyond the left and a more magnificent view presents · .

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

a reincarnation of power, grandeur, sublimity, a gantic forms stand forth from frames of mam• realm that might appropriately be dedicated to moth proportion-frames formed by the wide. a mountain god-a scene rivalling Goethe's horizon alone. The poet has sung : "Night on the Brocken." Btt just ahead of . "It's up among .the Rockies where the clouds. us are· the "Narrows." Here the mountains are hanging low, lean toward each other, as though in whispered And the mountains stand like pictures, like: consultation-plotting some catclysm of na• pictures in a row." ture with which to overwhelm the adventurous tourist. And now the snowy peaks rise in the But no such pictures as these were .ever pre• distance. These old hills fall back a bit at sented by the Rockies. No such stupertdous Twenty-five Mile Creek, exposing a large, cir• heights, gigantic domes, cavernous precipices cular opening of bench land, a point of ex• carved and fluted with ravirtes and canyons. quisite beauty. A sheltering nook, as its name 'We begin to feel like pigmies-Lilliputians on implies, is Safety Harbor, on the othr shore, · the Brobdingnagian palm of mighty nature. to the right. It lies just around a monstrous "Than Chelan there is no more beautiful bluff, ·a crescent-shaped enclosure winding sheet of water in the world." This is what gently back into the Methow ranges. We have has been said of it and reiterated. We are won our way to Twenty-five Mile, and yet the speeding onward to the head of the lake. Be• scenic beauties are not all that fancy painted. hind the vista at our wake is more pituresque No awe-compelling mountain heights have than it was when we faced it lower down the claimed ·rapt attention, particularly on the east• ·lake. But ahead of us! Mountains rise seem• ern side of the lake. But perhaps the western ingly out of the inky bosom of the waters and exposure has grown in stature, and, mayhap, pierce the skies; where the wind fails to stir at times there has stolen over us a scene of im• the lake huge reflections of mountains vastne3s pending confirmation of our most ardent hopes. 'plunge downward into the depths which have The oncoming enchantment is not sudden-the become gigantic mirrors, doubling the sublim• spell is gradual. The gap in the range, the. ity of all the surrounding scenery. It is and is open savannahs, the slimly wooded terraces, not duplication. These reflections are as power• with the houses of the ranch people glinting ful and real as are the timbered mountains along the shore or rtestling in the vistas of wild themselves. Tinkling cascades boil and tim• woodland, have all served their turn in check• ble down the bights, mainly on· the western ing the awe, or at least the effect of it, of the shore. Would you see them at the acme of now overpowering mountain wall. their beauty? Come in the spring time when Shakespeare has written, "Everything the condensing snow swell.:; these gentle must Stiffer a sea change." But we are now to streamlets into mountain torrents. When the pass . through a combinatiGD of sea and land soft, musical tinkle rises into the hoarse roar changes of whose wonders none can write with of a mighty flood. satisfying result. The transformation takes Bare and brown is Round Mountain, a place at the "Narrows." Here fret and chafe withered bluff rising several hundred feet from the waters of the lake that erstwhile had been an iTosing precipice. No soil C(ln be de• · placid as the face a sleeping infant in a crib. tected on its repellant face, and it uplifts by a Hurtling down from the.Alpine snows and the series of terraces, a formation peculiar to .this srags fat ahead sweeps the wind; And the entire country. Under the walls of this moun• mountains! They loom now in colossal gran• tain skirts the Flyer, and under the Flyer at deur; Tq the right, to the left, the same gi- this point hangs a 1vall of water, the deepest 44

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

in the lake. The Flyer has borne us into a starboard quarter it is the glorious blue which wilderness of everlasting hills. Like the oppos• we have noticed since leaving the foot -of the ing hosts of armies, on the verge of combat, lake. And in the wake the churning whee yet forever petrified, they stand arrayed against throws foam and spray, revealing millions of :a backgrOund of loftier heights. And how dancing crystals, and all of varying hues:· Far vastly different the configuration of these an• to the left is a scene not to be witnessed from tagonistic mountains! Of the eastern range the deck' of the Flyer. vVith the aid of a small :tbe masses nearest to- us are not so ravaged by rowboat we ga1n a mighty cliff named "The •canyons. A fe::tture of this side is the dome• Painted Rocks." Here nature and rude art Jike -structure of many of precipital walls ris• combine. High up on the face of this cliff, yet jng from the water's edge. These overhanging fifty feet below the summit is a series of gro• cliffs are not only in their entirety dome• tesque designs,. done in artificial pigments by shaped, but their faces are pinched and Indians. The pictures represent, crudely, yet weather-beaten into a .multitude of lesser plainly enough, men and horses. No one has domes. - Some of the flutings or grooves are yet come forward with an explanation satis• hundreds of feet long. What cut them so factory to us as to how these savages scaled the :sheer and clearly? .Mountain streams that in precipitous height to paint the pictures. The spring and summer bound down these natural , proof that they did so is before us. This is viaducts to the sombre lake below. Black Cap another addition to the wonders of the world. is now in view, a towering rounded rock, faced It is something that could appropriately be in• into a bald bluff and boldly confronting the corporated in Wendell Phillips' celebrated lec• lake. It long holds- our attention. Mark now ture on the "Lost Arts." the pronounced difference between the eastern And now, Chelan, fare':Vell. The shadcnvs and western shores. Of loftier height is the creep along the shores, the giant pictures in western, of greater variety of form, more ex• your depths fade with the declining sun uberant foliage, deeper canyons and more im• Night wears on apace and all nature seems posing gorges. Into all descriptions of monu• bathed in a supernatural light. The mr:nn mental forms Father Time has carved the sum• climbs over a mountain crag and hangs t\h.e mits thousands of feet above us. Pyramidal a brazen shield in the evening sky. Le1: us crags, sharp, incisive peaks, oblong heads, bat• leave the boat and repair to a comfortable tleinented walls, turreted cliffs, imagination hotel, there to disillusion ourselves, to exor• can stipply almost any mediaeval or feudal pic• cise the spell that long hath bound tts and free ture ·desired from the configurations, and they ourselves from an enthusiasm which only a all shoot toward the zenith, whichever way night's rest can overcome. you look. The elevation of Lake Chelan is given by the From scenery so bewildering and overpow• United States Geological Survey as r,o,79 ering itis a relief to turn and contemplate the above sea level. The distance from Vv more quiet aspect of the lake. We are now chee, via the Columbia river, is 40 miles; neari11g. the head of these wonderful waters climate is mild; the trout fishing superb. west into \vhich flows the little Stehekin river. The of the Columbia three miles it is the est north wind has sent white caps scurrying body of fresh water within the limits of southward, and there is a perceptible roll to the state of Washington. It is fed by glaciers Flyer. Here is a paradox. Over the port rail is navigable for the largest vessels, much of the steamer the water is deep green, glinted craft than the commercial enterprise of the •. by slanting rays of the declining sun. On the rounding country will warrant. ·Although

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

is only three miles from the Columbia river, ery is magnificent. This is Park Canyon, and its elevation is nearly four hundred feet above it extends from a point on the lake nearly three that stream. Rarely does the mercury drop miles from the mouth to the Col mbia river. below zero in the vicinity of the lake. What is Nearly a quarter of a mile in width, it is a nat• known as the foot of the lake is about midway ural roadway with walls ranging from 500 to between Seattle and Spokane; the lands sur• Sao. feet in height, rugged and rough in places, rounding it are open to the-successful cultiva• with their granite ribs exposed ih bold and tion of almost every description "of agricultural regular flutings, like giants' ribs and again in. products. The prevailing winds are from the . places covered with an excellet quality of soil, west· in summer; from the east during the win• rich bunch grass and wild shrubbery. Huge ter months. The mountains are more or iess pines are scattered over the surface of Park timbered, heavily in some localities, the quality Canyon; standing out from a luxuriant carpet being excellent sawmill timber. The nearest of bunch grass. Evidences of seismic disturb• railroad facilities are at Wenatchee, from which ance are scattered around in the shape of large point connection is made by steamers on the boul<;Iers which have been jarred from the Columbia. Of game there is an abundance ,in mountain side. In sharp contrast to this awful the vicinity at all ·seasons of the year; grouse, reminder the place, through the glorious sum• prairie chickens, ducks, geese ·and swans are mer months, is a veritable flower garden, plentiful, and the neighboring mountains are changing in its variety of bloom as the seasons the natural haunts of the bear, cougar, deer, pass. goat and various other animals falling within Iitfteen miles up the lake from the town of the classification of "." Six steamers . Chelan is Mountain Park, a strip two or three and several gasoline launches ply the lake at miles wide and densely wooded, paralleling the present. Among them are the Stehekin (mail south shore, and gently sloping from the base steamer), Flyer, Dexter, Swan, Lady of the of the mountain to the water's edge. The Lake, Rustler, Mountaineer and Vixen. For picturesque home of Thomas R. Gibson is lo• fifteen miles .along the lower end of the lake cated near the center of this gem in the wilder• the valley and foot-hills afford a comparatively ness. He pre-empted the property in the early large area of arable land, productive of fine 90's, being one of the pioneers of Chelan Val• fruits, cereals, grasses and all varieties of vege ley. The lake is narrower at this point than tables. elsewhere. Passinf'steamers are always in Prominent among the scenic attractions of sight and the most of them make a landing at Lake Chelan is a coulee heading from a point this place. Here, against the side of the moun• a short distance above Judge Navarre's, extend• tain is a large, almost perpendicular, fan-shaped ing several miles in a southerly direction gash, the result of the mountain slide previous• through the mountain spur to the breaks of the ly men ioned. It is named "Mineral Slide," Columbia river, which trends to the westward and is visible for miles. south of Chelan Falls. Comparatively .little On the north shore of the lake, fifty miles higher than the lake level is the bed of the from· Chelan, and six or eight miles from the coulee. For quite a distance the side walls are. head of the lake, is Moore's Point. In r889- . perpendicular, rock precipices, ·hundreds of 90 it was taken up by Colonel J. Robert Moore, feet high. Dotting the nar;ow valley are cool, a New York veteran who had served with dis• grassy meadows, interspersed with clumps, or tinction through the Civil War. In· his judg• -"openings/' of evergreen trees. The valley ment this spot was ne plus ult-ra., far and away ·'tvidens on the southern outlet and here the seen- ahead of all other localities on the lake in which

VIEW ON LAKE CHELAN.

LAKE CHELAN. VIEW FROM MOORE'S POINT.

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

to build a tourists' resort and a home. The popular representative, is proprietor of the ho• experience of years has not caused the colonel tel. Here is the point of departure for the to regret his choice. A stream rises away back world-famed Horseshoe Basin, , among the lofty mountains. called Fish Creek. Bridge Creek and other notable mines. The At times it swells into a mad torrent aggravated surrounding scenery is picturesque and attrac• by the melting snows of spring. Whipped by tive. At the present writing Julian E. Itter, the line of the zealous angler this runlet yields the noted artist, has passed several months in many a fat basket of delicious trout. South• the vicinity of upper Lake Chelan painting a west, four miles diagonally across the lake is panorama of the scenery of Horseshoe Basin Railroad Creek bar, where there is a grade of for the St. Louis Louisiana Purchase Exposi• the C. T. & S. Company's contemplated rail• tion. When completed the picture will be road for the purpose of conveying ore from the twenty feet in height and two hundred feet Holden mine to the lake. In the early 90's a long. distinguished guest visited Colonel Moore's The evidence of ice action in Okanogan and hotel, no less a personage than Miss Clara Bar• Chelan· counties is most pronounced. To be ton, of Red Cross fame, and since then the place convinced that the ice age has retreated none has been honored by many persons highly dis• too soon one has but to note the fresh appear• tinguished in official and social life. anee of terminal moraines, kettle holes and ter• Of -the "Painted Rocks," in a small cove races, together with the occurrence of glaciers where the cliffs come sheer into the deep waters · by the score on the western ranges. Not by a of the lake, one can say little authoritatively. All general ice-sheet was the glaciation of this re• is conjecture. Here the smooth face of the cliff gion effected. It was accomplished by local is covered with Indian sign-writing; startling and somewhat restricted action. Let us look hieroglyphics done in red, brown and blue for no ice-sheet margin; each individual gla• paint, and rudely representing men and horses, cier will halt or deploy upon the plain in a. man• figures of war-parties with bows and spears, ner depending on the size of the area of its ac• and wild goats and other animals resembling cumulation. Down the valleys of the Chelan, buffalo. These designs are far above the reach Methow and Okanogan these glaciers swept of man in a boat, even at the highest stage of respectively. It is believed that on account of water. Since they could have been painted only the narrowness of its valley and the height of from a canoe we drop into conjecture, and offer its mountains the Chelan glacier was the the not altogether plausible explanation that first to reach the Columbia river. In an article this is the work of a race that roamed the land on "Glacial Phenomena" Rev. W. L. , before the Chelan river had cut so deep a gorge in the American Geologist, says between the lake and the Columbia. There are "In doing so, it forced out the waters of the some, however, who believe they are not older pre-glacial Lake Chelan; which must have ex• than fifty or sixty years, reaching this conclu• . isted at a level some four hundred feet below sion by the rapidity with which the colors are present one, as a lateral reservoir of the Col-' fading. umbia river. Upon reaching the Columbia, Field's Hotel is at the head of Chelan, orie stead of at once and effectually damming of the most popular resorts in the state. The the stream, in the struggle which ensued building is three stories high, entirely sur• glacier was held in check and its foot dissol rounded by a broad porch, elegantly furnished by the impetuous river. Besides this it had and the service embracing all the market lateral means of discharge through affords. Hon. M. E. Field, Chelan county's and Navarre's coulees. These latera.l ·

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

streams also emerged upon the Columbia river, began to retreat it is possible to suppose that but at a lower point, where the valley is wider, both the Chelan and Methow glaciers began to and today great benches and banks of morainic withdraw at first, while the Okanogan glacier and half-sorted material may be found dis• still filled the Columbia gorge, and that the ice tributed for several miles on the Douglas coun• of the latter bulged into and followed the path ty side of the river. * * * Examples of of the retiring glaciers. This apparently out• the third class of coulees are the most numer• of-the-way explanation is called for because of ous. The fact has already been referred to that the remarkable presence of certain boulders in the Chelan glacier found channels of discharge the Chelan. and Methow valleys. Distributed through a barrier range to the southward by all along the western bank of the Columbia means of Knapp's and Navarre's coulees. The river, and at certain points in the lower Methow latter of these is the larger and in some respects and Chelan valleys, there occur large, rounded more remarkable, but the former has been masses of basalt boulders, brought by the ice. I carefully studied and will be described briefly. saw two on the Methow at least five miles An observer standing on the north side of Lake from the mouth of the river. Another near Chelan across from the north end of Knapp's Lake Chelan weighing hundreds of tons lies coulee sees a low divide cutting deeply through half buried in the hillside about fifty feet above an east and west range of foot-hills, which the water on the north shore of the lake, and rise from I,8oo to 2,500 feet above the level of also ,five miles from the Columbia. The pos• the lake; cutting deeply, I say, yet not clown to sible parent beds of these traveled blocks can be the lake level, for it ends substantially in a con• found only on the east bank of the Columbia fusionof irregular terraces some 200 feet above or in the region east of the Okanogan river, the lake. Passing through the four or five that swept by the eastern flank of the Okano• miles' length of this coulee, we find that the cen• gan glacier. A notable aggregation of these tral portion is level for quite a distance, and is boulders is to be seen in the Columbia valley a bounded by abrupt mountain walls, while the little below the entrance of the Methow. The slope in either direction toward the ends of appearance of the great boulder-field there the valley is only four or five per cei1t. It is an found is difficult to account for. * * * ice-hewn valley, a discharge-pipe of the Chelan "But to recur to the subject of terraces; we. glacier. Originally consisting of two opposite notice that in the Chelan Valley there must valleys heading at near the same point on the have been a time after a partial rec_ession of the divide, it was selected by the ice as presenting ice, while yet the ice occupied the Columbia the easiest avenue of escape across the rampart, gorge, when the pent-up waters filled the lower i. e., the lowest point, and was subsequently end of the valley. This feature is indicated at deeply excavated by the long-continued and various levels, but especially at the 225 foot gradually concentrated ice-flow. Today its level, where the material of lateral moraines superficial features of kettle-holes and morainic was worked over and spread out in benches, banks have not been obliterated nor even no• which are now capped by a fertile soil. ticeable modified bp subsequent drainag'e. * * "One of the latest phases in the retreat of "The Chelan glacier, when it encountered the lake waters is to be read in the Wapato dis• the Columbia river, began to deposit a moraine trict. This is a comparatively level section of across the mouth of its valley. This deposi• land which occupies the angle of a bend in the tion was kept up at least until the Columbia lake, where it emerges from the north and south valley was occupied by the southward flowing, narrows to open into the eastward-stretching "vest fork of the Okanogan glacier. As the ice terminal sheet. At the knee of this bend a val-

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

ley opens westward. Down this valley a gla• Wright's Peak, itself bearing a small glacier, cier flowed. Moreover, it did not tarry until I have looked off upon a region where they its foot rested against the angle of the Wapato might be counted by the score. Some of the section, thus forcing the lake waters to cross central mountains seem to be completely cov• between it and the highland opposite. The ered with ice and snow, except for the aiguilles broad and shallow channel thus formed is now which pierce through. Although moist condi• completely evacuated by the lake waters, and is tions stili prevail, it is probable that we are wit• occupied through its five or six miles extent nessing a period of slow retreat." only by occasional alkali sinks. Lake Chelan Another of Washington;s wonders is the is held in place by a dam of gracial debris. The Wenatchee valley. It is situated in the geo• terminal moraine of the Chelan glacier chokes graphical center of the state. The foot-hills of up the lower valley and holds the lake back at the Cascade range are hugged by its western a level of 325 feet above that of the Columbia lirpits; the eastern portion of the_ valley is river which sweeps its base. Instead of exca• bi-sected by the Columbia.- Roars and rushes vating a channel through the heaped up mate• the Wenatchee river, piercing the giant clefts rials of the moraine and so reducing the lake ·of snow-capped mountains, until, gathering 'to its pre-glacial level, the outlet of Lake Che• volume from its tributaries, it bursts through lan has found another route-a precipitous the famous Tumwater gorge, ten miles in channel through the granite. This course is, length, and enters the low-lying valley. Wind• perhaps, det rmined, as Mr. Russell suggests, ing to and fro from west to east it intersects the by the fracture-line between two immense fal• valley, joining forces with the Columbia ju.st len rock-masses, which were at some time split above the prosperous and eligible town of We• off from the northeast corner of Chelan butte. natchee. Some thirty miles in length is this At the time of the Kokshut Mountain disaster valley, varying in width from one to five miles. water coming from some point in the river burst Ranges of hills are to the north and south aver• forth from under the moraine, qnd- has since aging 2,ooo feet in height. The north 'range persisted as a series of springs-making a verit• is a divide between the fruit belts of the We• able garden spot at La Chapelle's landing, natchee Valley and the Big Bend Country. where was only barren sand before. If it be This section was named in honor of the old true that the Chelan river, instead of cutting Chief Wenatchee, long since passed over to the through the granite, has met:ely followed a happy hunting ground. He left a sun-scorched, break in the rock, then no reliable estimate of barren waste, relieved oniy by the foaming wat• its age can be formed on this basis. Better ers that bear his name. Could he return he results, however, may be expected from work would gaze upon luxuriant orchards, produc• at the head of the lake, for the Stehekin river, tive ranches, comfortable homes and all the in• which occupies the continuation of the valley to dices of modern civilization, its luxuries, its the west, has beeri filling in the head of the lake culture and its intelligence. Before him would for a considerable time and has shortened its be spread successive acres of peerless fruit length by several miles. trees, interspersed by fields of clover or alfalfa, "Little, however, has been done to explore vividly, brightly green. In the language of the the ice-fields which occupy the rugged region Seattle Co1nmonwealth: to the north and west of Lake Chelan, and the "Did the old ruler of this now flourishing Methow river. Prospectors report them as be• domain seek to investigate, more minutely the ing numerous throughout that country. From why and wherefore of these marvels he would the summit of a high mountain west of Chelan, J observe, trickling rows of growing fruit trees,

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

and percolating -the green masses of the mead• "This canal is about thirty miles in length. ows tiny streamlets of life giving fluid, and en• The ·intake will be located on the north side of lightenment would follow. For it is water, the Wenatchee river, opposite Peshastin Creek. guided from its natural channels in the higher The waterway will .continue along the nor h ground by the hand of man that has wrought side of the Wenatchee until it reaches a point this wonderous change; it is irrigation, the one and one-half miles above the mouth of that wizard of the ,.;rest, that has forced the arid stream, where it crosses the river in a wooden desert to supply mankind with the choicest gifts stave pipe, forty-two inches in diameter and one at nature's disposal. By its means thousands and one-half miles long. It waters 2,000 acres of acres of tillable soil are 'flourishing like a on the north side, 'but after crossing the Wenat• _ green bay tree.' " chee river supplies water to over s,ooo acres of Between the years 1890 to 1892 an at• most fertile land. This is the con• tempt was made to form an irrigation district sumation of years of labor. About twenty under what was known as the "Wright Law."· years ago Philip Miller, one of the earliest set• This measure authorized the formation of irri• tlers in this locality, built the first irrigation gation districts and taxation of all property ditch of any size. He took the waters out of within tle limits of the districts to pay for the the Quiltocchien Creek, abot1t two miles west of work of construction and maintenance. C. :£\. Wenatchee. The remaining waters of the Reed, of Rock Island, was a prominent factor Quiltocchien and those of the Stemilt were then in this project, and acquired the name of "Irri• taken up by the farmers who saw the great ad• gation Reed." Until the district was formed vantage gained by 1rngation. With these he continued to earnestly agitate the matter. operations the limit of cheap irrigation was A test of the Wright law having been made in reached. ' the courts it was decided to be unconstitutional In 1896 Arthur Gunn and J. A. Shotwell and the enterprise was abandoned. Several huilt a small irrigation ditch, taking water out thousands of dollars had been expended in the o-f the Wenatchee river eight miles west of the survey, and this preliminary survey is, practic• town. Convinced that the results obtained ally, the same upon which is run the eminently would sustain the undertaking a company was successful "High Line Ditch," Later Mr. Reed formed called the Wenatchee Waterpower formed the Lake Irrigation Company, for the Company, an:d this organization continued the purpose of irrigating his own and a few neigh• canal to reach the fertile acres along the Colum• boring farms. This proved a successful under• bia, in, and surrounding Wenatchee. Three taking and Mr. Reed has profited greatly miles from this town they built a bridge across thereby. the Wenatchee and conveyed the waters to the Throughout the Wenatchee Valley the south side of the river. This canal cost $4s,ooo of irrigation is being rapidly worked and supplied water to about one thousand acres. to a successful conclusion. Much has been said Land which had been worth from $10 to $so and written about the Wenatchee Canal, com• an acre prior to- the completion at once reached plet d in October, 1903. Its waters will be the value of from $zoo tci $sao an acre. In poured lavishly over every acre of dry land in 1893 a preliminary survey was made by C. F. the now famous valley, thus realizing the fond• B. Haskell, locating engineer of the Great est hopes of early settlers - who have never - Northern Railway Company, for the location abandoned faith in the ultimate completion of . of a . practical line for the building of a higher the "High Line Ditch." Of this enterprise -the ditch, but nothing was done toward its con• Coast Magazine of October, 1902, said: struction so high was the estimated cost. In

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON. ,,

I896 S0me farmers and oth,ers, among' whom Burke, president, and T. N. Haller, vice-presi• wereJ. A. Shotwell, A. Gunn, A. L.,Burbank, dent, offered to give the Wenatchee Canal H.S. Shotwell, Taylor Hughes, Mr. Benjamin Company one-half their. land holdings in the Chapmah, J. B. Holmes and oth rs, organized Wenatchee Valley. Later, in order to secure the North Wenatchee· Canal Company, and be- completion of the canal, they, in addition, gave gan construction work which was contemplated a, bonus of $6,ooo cash, to be delivered whet). the to cover abo).lt one thousand acres on Warner's work was completed. In fact -the Wenatchee Flat,' opposite and below the town of Mission. -Development Company has stood in the breach Under the direction of Harvey Shotwell, now and from the first, seeing the gt:eat advantage of the city engineering department of Seattle, to be gained, has been a staunch and strong $w,ooo worth of construction work was done, supporter of the enterprise. but the canal still remained uncompleted. In "The new ditch is known as the 'High Line the meantime, until I90I, the project was kept Ditch'; the former as the 'Low Line.' 'The alive md the right of way retained for the canal 'High, Line Ditch' will put 7,ooo acres of land through the efforts of Arthur Gunn, of Wenat- · under water in addition to the territory now chee. - covered by the 'Low Line.' " "In 1901 L. McLean succeeded in interest- In the heart of the Cascade Mountains, in ing \iV. -T. , of North Yakima, who had . Chelan county, lies Lake Wenatchee. Seven just finished building the Selah-Moxie canal in miles long is this lovely body ot water which the Yakima Valley. Upon visiting the locality is fed by the Little Wenatchee and White and looking over the situation he at once saw rivers, and drained by the Wenatchee river the utility of the undertaking and set about or- proper. Snow-capped peaks and wooded slopes ganizing the Wenatchee Canal Company. He surround its crystal waters and inlets stocked received the hearty support of the Wenatchee with an abundance of· gamy trout. Through• Chamber of Commerce and a committee com- out the entire northwest there is no more fav• posed of L. McLean, F. _M. Sheble, L. V. 'arable spot for a summer outing. From the Wells, M. Horan, Z. A. Lanham and Arthur town of Wenatchee it is reached by the Great Gunn was appointed. These gentlemen saw Northern Railway to Nason Creek, thence by each of the land owners along whose land the wagon; a distance of seven miles to the lake. ditch would pass, and secured contracts from For pleasure seekers and hunters the Hotel them to take water from the new company and Bates affords ample accommodations and ex• pay upon the completion of the ditch the sums cellent service. of from $so to $6o per acre for the privilege. Of the beautiful Wenatchee Valley the This secured money for the cost of construction. Washington State Bur<;au of Statistics, Agri• In June, 1902, active operations were begun culture and Immigration makes mention as and have progressed constaptly since. The follows: woxk was completed in- October, 1903. "In the Wenatchee we find a district com- "The greatest cost of irrigation ditch build, paratively small in size, and yet of such beauty ing has been reachecf in this instance, but not- and productiveness that it might be called the withstanding that fact, through the enterprise Washington 'Vale of Cashmere.' The Wenat• and activity ofthe residents and those interested chee river rises in a lake of the same name in it has -been undertaken and now is an assured the heart of stupenduous mountains snow• fact. During the preliminary negotiation, in capped the year round. It descends ina streak order to secure the building of this ditch, the of foam into a narrow canyon, whence it is• Wenatchee Development Company, Thomas sues clear and sparkling upon a smiling valley,

WANATCHEE FRUIT EXHIBIT AT THE SPOKANE FRUIT FAIR IN 1902.

PAINTED ROCKS NEAR THE HEAD OF LAKE CHELAN.

EY CAME FROM LAKE CHELAN.

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

thirty miles long and from one to five miles and .residence, but until recently no steps had wide. The soil, air, water, and an indefinable ever been taken to secure any title to the la d, something-call it the genii of the place, which but I am now in negotiation with the state land imparts the last touches of perfection-seem to . commissioner £or a long-term lease of the prem• have marked the Wenatchee for the natural ises. This plant was erected during the summer home of fruits and vegetables. If one region of r899. Owing to the location of this hatch• more than another can be called the 'jewel,' that ery the cost of maintenance is greater than at title must probably be accorded to Wenatchee. any other hatchery of the same capacity. The A great variety of fruits is produced here. extreme cold winters, heavy snows, difficulty in "Though the Wenatchee does not at all controlling the river and the isolation of the approach the Yakima in aggregate production, plant makes it an expensive one to operate. yet in proportion to area it surpasses its big sis• However, good work has been done. and this ter. When we consider the comparatively small season the hatchery will be filled. The cost of area of this. region and its population of only maintaining this hatchery from November I, 3,500, with the further fact that in addition to 190I, to November I, I9o2, was $3,8zs.So. the .fruit great qu ntities of hay are produced, This was more than any one of the other nine• we can form some conception of the great pro• teen hatcheries in the state. Output for season ductiveness of the Wenatchee Valley." of 1902, 7,934,'560, the largest output in the Of Tumwater Canyon the Wenatchee Ad• Columbia river district and next to the largest vance of December, 1902, says: in the state." "Tumwater Canyon is one of the wildest Although not widely advertised, one of the and most picturesque spots in this part of the most important portions. of Chelan county is the country. Through a narrow canyon rush the Entiat Valley, so named from the stream that waters of the Wenatchee, with majestic moun• rises far back in the heart of the Cascades tains towering thousands of feet on either among the giant glaciers from which outflow side. In a· few places the river is quiet for a two other streams, the Agnes and Railroad hundred yards or so, and any one may cross Creek. Fifty or sixty miles long is the Entiat with comparative safety, but if he should be Valley, extending northwest and southeast, the drawn over the falls death is sure to overtake· river .flowing into the Columbia from the west him." about twenty miles north of Wenatchee. Won• On the Wenatchee river, four miles distant derfully fertile is this valley, though narrow, from the town, is Paradise Valley. There is and it is well settled on each bank of the river no prettier picture to be found anywhere when for a distance of twenty-five miles. Fruits, the orchards are loaded with fruit and the al• vegetables, cereals, stock, lumber, mining, etc., falfa fields arrayed in their rich green habili• are the varied resources of this productive ments. valley.. To Seattle and other points many Of the Wenatchee Fish Hatchery the 1902 car-loads of fruit are annually shipped from this report of the State Fish Commission says : section. Each succeeding year the area of or- . "The hatchery is situated in the northwest . chard culture is rapidly extended. The prin• quarter of the nofrhwest quarter of section r 6, cipal stock-feed raised is alfalfa, and under township 25, north, range 17 east, on the We• irrigation conditions the weight of this crop is natchee river, and tributary to the Columbia almost incredible. The incalculable value of. river, and about one and one-third miles from systematic irrigation is well illustrated in this Chiwaukum, a Great Northern railway station. vicinity. It is, practically, useless to attempt to The state haerected a fine hatchery building make any description of crop without water.

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

With the valuable auxiliary aid of this life• ous toil and difficulty to reach an altitude of giving fluid all is smooth and successful. The ro,ooo feet, and they describe the view of principal supply reservoir for the purpose of mountain scenery witnessed· from that point to irrigation here is the Entiat river. It is rapid be sublime beyond all description. Castle Rock from its source until it gains the 'columbia, af• could be plainly seen, and from as accurate cal• fording sufficient fall to make the supply easily cualtion as it was possible to make the yet un• utilized, and on each side of the valley, some• named mountain on' which they were, which times many feet up the mountain side, may be ran up rock spires still 500 feet higher than seen the water ditches and flumes bearing limpid they were able to ascend, was at least that much streams of pure, cold water throughout the mF higher than Castle Rock. Having determined merous farms. Thus is made possible the cul• 'it to be the very highest peak in the vicinity, tivation of almost everything known to semi• they proceeded to christen it 'Wright's Peak,' tropical husbandry. At the mouth of Entiat in honor of that eminent scholar and scientist, river the elevation is about 700 feet above sea G. F. Wright, professor of glaciology in Ober• level. An industry beginning to figure prom• lin college, and author of 'The Ice Age in inently in the economy of the Entiat Valley is North America.' They noticed another moun• bee culture. At present quite a large number tain whose top seemed shattered into great of residents have stands of bee hives, and the rock splinters, pointing starward, like giant output of honey is first-class in every respect. fingers, and to this they gave the name of Although better results are obtained as more 'Splinter Peak.' " clover is sown, bees are doing well at present. "Cascades rival the tnighty Alps." This There are numerous points for fruit ship• sentence is from an• interview given by Julian ment in Chelan county along the Columbia E. Itter, the eminent artist, to the Everett river, yet it nearly all passes t rough Vl/enat• Daily Herald. The H eralld contiues: chee. From the latter point the fruit shipment "Mr. Itter, who is an artist of note, has 'by express from June I to October I, 1903, been assigned by the St. Louis Fair commis• were 122,350 packages, aggregating 2,798,576 sion to the work of transferring to canvas pounds. The amount shipped by freight from some of Washington's choicest scenery, which Wenatchee during the same period was 121,- will be placed on exhibition in the Washington 020 packages or 3,345,000 pounds, a grand to• building at the St. Louis Exposition. In open• tal of 232 cars, and 6,142,576 pounds. ing his interview Mr. Itter pronounced the Wright's Peak is not visible from the head Chelan country the Switzerland of America, of Lake Chelan, as it is situated some distance and says that 'words fail to describe the gran• south by west. In all its majesty and gran• deur of the scenery to be found there. , There deur it may be seen after several hours of ar• are miles and miles of cloud piercing, snow• duous climbing over the first divide of the Ste• capped peaks; wide, snow white glaciers hekin river. The Chelmt Leader says concern- stretch away from you until they seem to ing this peak : . melt into the blue of the sky, veritable crystal "Rev. and Mrs. W. L. Dawson, the former pavement leading, it would seem, into the very pastor of the First Congregational church of gate of heaven; there are towering· cliffs of Chelan, in 1895, visited the peak and named it. castellated rocks, yawning chasms, peaceful Mr. and Mrs. Dawson started out one morn• lakes, wild torrents leaping a thousand feet, ing bright and early, well supplied with food, great forests and 1 rich river valleys. No coun• a pair of blankets, hob-nailed shoes, alpen try in the world equals it. stocks, etc., and .managed after a day of ardu- "'Standing on one peak you look upon an

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

)Cean of mountains stretching north and1 south bend in the canyon is the m.ain fall, and then md east and west. You see Mount Baker and you observe a sharp plunge of twenty feet, a Mount Ranier in all their grandeur, Glacier wild, tumultous cascade, with a total fall of Peak and a hundred other mountains loom be• about forty feet, and then the, view is shut out fore you; you look north into Canada and by another rocky wall. Up the slippery bank· ;outh into Oregon; is unrolled we clamber, coming out upon a mighty snow )efore you like a map, while beyond it you see bank like a glacier. It hangs over a deep, dauk :he silvery Olympics. There is no reason,' con• pool of coal black water. A small river is above :inues Mr. Itter 'why Washington should not us which leaps suddenly and desperately over )ecome the scenic resort of not only America, a precipice, as if intent on suicide. Here it mt also the world. This state surpasses tpe makes an unbroken plunge of 250 feet. Sound 'losemite; it excels Switzerland; the world has and mist; reverbrating sound and soaking mist, )nly to learn these facts and tourists will flock are in the air, and up out of the dark canyon :o the state.' " comes a mighty wind whispering and 'Search• On the rim of Horseshoe Basin, on the ing, penetrating one's bones with an icy chill. i1eadwaters of Stehekin river, above Lake Before it is driven the spray, sheer and cut• ::::helan, the highest pinnacle is Mount Sahale. ting, right into our faces. It is like a blizzard Mounts Baker, Ranier, (or Tacoma), Glacier driving before it sharp, icy pellets. And yet Peak and several hundred snow-crowned the sun shines brightly on the cliffs, and on the 1eights may be seen from this point, as well as gathering mist as it trickles down into the :he shimmering waters of Puget Sound. The seams and crevices may be traced the colors of valley of the Columbia and the Big Bend coun• the rainbow-colors ,unfading, while the sun try to the east are1 also spread before the gaze. contributes to the mise en scene. Horseshoe Basin is a vast conservatory of "Racing Rainbow" is the name given by waterfalls. Here there are twenty-one of them the Indians to this beautiful fall, and the me• averaging about I,ooo feet in height. In a taphor is not inapt. At their ,fairest: and most single stream these waters unite, flowing majestic stage are these falls in the spring and through a narrow cleft in the rocks. A giant early summer. To the volume of a mountain boulder has fallen into the cleft, and this, di• brookI dwarf these streams in midsummer, and viding the stream into nearly equal parts, forms the great fall of 2 50 feet is broken in two. Twin Falls. From Field's hotel the distance to the Rain• Up the sombre-valley of the Stehekin river, bow Falls is four miles, over a fair carriage four miles, we come to Rainbow Falls, on Boul• road. Up the valley from Stehekin to Horse• der creek. Nowhere in the northwest is there shoe Basin the road passes wi-thin a few rods a more picturesque waterfall. Down through of it. the valley comes rushing the Stehekin like a Goat Mountain, about half way up Lake mill-race-nay, not so torpid as a mill-race Chelan, is a stupendous wall, extending twelve -bank-full in places, and at others backing miles, with scarcely a crack into which one up into sloughs and high water channels. Half might thrust a boat-prow, or up which the most a mile frorfP'the Stehekin are Rainbow Falls, agile cougar could wriggle his si'nuous body. and the roar of the waters accentuate their im• Here the wild goats stand on juts of rock and mediate presence long before they burst upon watch pigmy man plying his oar far below. our· sight. Gaining them we stand in a cloud And yet fortunate shots have reached a goat of ascending mist. Slightly disappointing is from the waters of the lake, and the victim t}:te first view. Hidden away behind a slight has come hurtling down to reward the hunter.

700 HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

Of the wild country lying back from Lake painted an obscure cross upon one of these Chelan but little, comparatively, is known. rocks, which marks the entrance to the ice cave. Foaming torrents tear through the deeper .can-, Otherwise a stranger would find some difficulty yons, baffling the curious encroachment of man. in locating it, there being no road, track or un• Undisturbed roam the red deer and here the usual appearance to guide one. No water is cougar makes his lair in safety; here the visible, no sound of water is .audible, but there shaggy bear has yet to be startled by the rifl 's is a perceptibly cold breeze coining from its crack, and from these cliffs and crags the depths and the crannies, which are at the bot• mountain goat has yet to be driven by the en• tom, are full of wonderfully clear and solid ice, thusiastic Nimrod. It is stated authentically which appears to 'maintain a certain height on that with the first adventlof settlers in this vi• the floor and renews itself as it is taken away. cinity one could row in Lake Chelan through• It still remains a problem whence come the out the day without losing sight of these bands water and the cold winds. of wild goats. The present Chelan county is bounded on Between Chelan and Pateros, and about the north, or rather on the, northeast by a line eight miles from the former town, the road running, on survey, from the southeast corner passes a natural ice cave, in which ice is to be of Whatcom county to a point a few miles be• found any month in the year. After climbing low Pateros, on the Columbia river; on the the mountain side about soo feet above the east by the Columbia; on the south by Kittitas Columbia river, which now looks like a narrow county, and on the west by Skagit, Snohomish, ribbon, one loses sight of the river as he passes and a small portion of King counties. · Its into a lofty canyon, where the disintegrating geological formation will be be found generally forces of time have so rent and thrown the described in the chapter devoted to "Mines splintered granite rocks that the sides of the and Mining." The superficial area of Chelan canyon are lined and floored with talus. But county is 3,070 square miles. The county very few boulders are' found here. The road seat is Wenatchee. then winds its devious way among the giant Six miles above Rock Island, on the road to fragments of the mountain top, while firs and Wenatchee, and near the line of the Great pines struggle for a footing. A mile: or so of Northern railroad, are two enormous heaps of this and the canyon widens a little and occa• basaltic rock, in the exact form of Indian te• sionally a fertile spot appears. On the left, pees. From a distance they appear tattered

1 abou.t seventy-five feet below the road, a small and discolored from long usage. Those fa• lake of gem-like emerald green invites one's miliar with Indian habitations can almost im• admiration and excites surprise. A sparkling agine the appearance of smoke through .the spring bubbles at about three feet above the ragged opening near the top. On nearer ap• south side of the lake, but the lake itself is so proach they are found to bet about fifty feet in impregnated with copper, arsenic, etc., that it diameter at the base, and one hundred and fifty is -qndrinkable. Beyond the lake the ravine feet high. During the last trouble with Chief . widens with a high, steep and barren cliff on Moses' tribe a desperate battle took place Lll'-·"''"' ""'' the right which is flanked almost to its summit and here young Chief Moses, son of the fa• with a solid pile of talus-large, sharp, rugged mous warrior, was killed by a detachment of and irregular, at the base of which are a few General Howard's men. The soldiers desig- / struggling firs and pines. nated these huge rocks "Twin Tepees," but About five hundred feet from this road and they are now termed locally "The T ,o,!o Dead a few feet above it some kindly pilgrim has Indians."

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON. 701

Ten miles northwest from Wenatchee is the Wenatchee growers, within a few minutes beautiful Mission Valley. On the north it is drive of the town of Wenatchee, won seventeen bounded by the Wenatchee river; on the east, medals at the Buffalo Pan-American Exposi• south and west by lofty mountains. The Mis• tion, this being more than one-third of the sion canyon averages sixty rods in width and number won by the state, which was forty-two. is three and one-half miles long. Through this These figures, coupled with the fact that the canyon flows Mission creek. All varieties of state of Washington won the gold medal for fruit and vegetables grow here in lavish pro• the best sustained display of fruits speak for fusion. From the winds and cold it is shel• themselves. The conditions governing the tered by vertical mountains, rising from 2,000 production of fruits in this district, briefly to 6,ooo feet. The scenery is magnificent. stated, are somewhat as follows : Altitude Above Mission river this canyon widens into a immediately on the Columbia river at beautiful level valley, containing about 3,000 this point, six hundred feet, with gentle slope acres. Brender's canyon, which opens into to the foot-hills of the Cascade mountains, a Mission Valley, is another handsome place.· distance of from three to four miles. The cli• There is something entrancing about this Mis• mate is such that all the semi-tropical, fruits sion, whether it is the air, the river, the moun• are grown with remarkable success. On the tain scenery, or all combined. uplands back from the valley are also success• ln August, 1903, L. M. Hull, as secretary, fully grown fruits of many kinds, making a sent in a report from the Chelan County Hor• long season for certain varieties. For instance, ticultural and Floricultural Association, to the strawberries are on the Wenatchee market.:; United States Promological society. It was at from May until the latter part of July. All the request of Charles H. Ross, who is chair• the fruit sections of this district are irrigated man of the Washington committee of that as• excepting a few farms in Douglas county, and sociation, and the report was made to him. The the Lake Chelan country." points covered are answers to interrogatories Late in February, 1900, the Chelan county from Mr. Ross : Horticultural Society was organized. This "This fruit section, consisting of territory was at the time when the creation of the county mostly found in Shelan county, is commonly had become an assured thing by an act of leg• known as the 'Wenatchee Fruit Belt,' from islature then in session. The first official act of the fact that the country immediately sur• the association vvas to elect a county fruit in• rounding the town of Wenatchee has for· sev• spector, which election was promptly ratified eral years past shipped considerable quantities by the county commissioners, in accordance of its product east and west, over the Great with the state law. The inspection of nursery Northern Railway. Also for the seasons 1901 stock, however, was not the only thing that the and 1902 Wenatchee successfully competed for fruit growers had in view when they decided premiums at Washington State and Spokane to organize. Section I, Article 3, of the con Inter-State fairs. There are, however, other stitution reads as follows : . sections equally good for fruit raising, viz : "The object of this association shall be to Mission, Entiat, Chelan, Malaga, and Orondo, guard against the introduction of fruit insect the latter country being situated about twenty pests into the county, the destruction of such miles up the Columbia river, in Douglas pests as already may be here, and the promo• county. tion of any enterprise that may redound to the "To illustrate the importance of this sec• benefit of the horticultural and floricultural in• tion as a fruit producer, permit ine to say that dustry of the country."

702 HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

This provides for a wide field of operations, ways been of much interest and value. It goes and clearly sets forth the aims and purposes of without saying that a Wenatchee five-acre fruit the society. During the four years of its ex• ranch will make as much work and more in• istence the association has sought in various come than a hundred and ·sixty-acre grain ways to disseminate infoqnation of benefit to farm. It is quite probable that so marked a fruit growers. It has annually arranged for, feature will become the small holdings of We• and borne the local expenses of farmers' insti• natchee flat proper that in the future it will be tutes, the lecturers being furnished by the state known as the city of small faqns. agricultural college. These meetings have al-

CHAPTER III.

MINES AND MINING.

Within the confines of the present county The editor of the Leader asserts: "So vast was of Chelan is located the first quartz mine ever it that he naturally hesitated to attempt to tell opened in the state of Washington so far a.s its dimensions, lest his reputation for truth and the records show. It is the testimony of Mr. veracity should be seriously injured." For a McKee, an old prospector and miner, that he distance of thtee thousa 1d feet the ledge is ex-. prospected the Chelan district as early as 1875, posed on the surface, and from the highest to making a trip up Lake Chelan long before tl1ere the lowest exposure the depth is fully seven was a white man in the country. Since that hundred feet. At the date last mentioned Tun• period mining has been followed in a desult• nel No. r, near the highest point, had cros.s-cut tory manner, and it was not until July 20, some eighty feet all in ore. Near the lowest 1896, that the great strike of the Holden mine outcrop a cross-cut tunnel has been run hun• was made by J. H. Holden, a mining dred and twenty-eight feet, all in without man. This mine is situated ten miles up Rail• finding the hanging wall and with surface indi• road creek, which flows into Lake Chelan. cations that at least seventy-five feet more While this is not the only mine in the L ke would have to be made to gain the other wall. Chelan country it is believed to be well within An average assay gave $r8.75 through a dis• the facts to state that it is at present the best tance of ninety feet in this tunnel (No.2). A developed property on the lake. By the conservative estimate of the value of the ore in . Chelan Leader the Holden mine is claimed "ac• sight, placing the depth at 400, and the length cording to the showing and assays to be the on surface at 3,000 feet, and width at roo feet, most monumental ore body existing in the en• rating the value per ton at $r2, gave a result of tire , without exception." $ r2o,ooo,ooo, This valuable property consists of three full Since that period a tunnel over 500 feet in claims, extending diagonally across · the face length, 500 feet lower down, has been run, and of a steep mountain side. The showing pre• recently struck the ledge after first cutting a sented so early as July, 1901, was amazing. twelve-foot stringer that had been encountered

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

above. The tunnel is now run all in ore of rich den mine is a true fissure vein; that the hang• quality. Eight hundred feet is the present to• ing ·wall has not yet been reached; that there tal depth of the ledge. While clearing away is more ore in sight than can be exhausted for for an ore dump near tunnel No. 2 workmen a generation or two to come, without going a uncovered a vein of galena, the extent of which foot lower, or increasing a foot iri width; and is unknown. But it is believed it will furnish ·that almost, invariably, large copper ledges go all the ore of this q,uality necessary for smelt• down for thousands of feet-well; the possibili• ing purposes. The highest assays taken from ties of this wonderful proposition are simply all points on the ledge give the value of $52, staggering. ' and the lowest $5.90. This property is owned "Tunnel No. 3 has been started below the by the Holden Gold & Copper Mining·. Com• largest cross-cut tunnel and is expected to tap pany, of which J. H. Holden, the discoverer, the ledge some 400 feet deeper. When the is president. The Chelan Transportation & . ledge is reached by that tunnel it will be con• Smelting Company, which has a contract with nected by a shaft with the upper workings, and the Holden company to transport and smelt its the whole mine can be worked downward on ore for a term of years, has let contracts which the gravity principle. On the 12th day of No• will probably insure the completion of a twelve• vember, 1900, the Holden group passed under mile railroad from the lake to the mine. · Of the control of the Drummers Development this remarkable mine the Chelan Leader, of Company, of Spokane, under a seven years' date November 21, 1901, said: lease from the Holden Gold & Copper Mining "The total length of the property is 4,500 Company. This company will push the work feet, and the ore body is known to extend at of getting the ore ready for shipment which, as least 500 feet above the floor of cross-cut tun• has been shown, is a comparatively easy propo• nel No. 2. The known width of the ore body sition. At the time of the execution of the lease thus far isI9 feet-and is probably 7 5 feet another company, composed principally of the more,. or nearly 200 feet in width. But let us stockholders of the Development company, but take the length of exposed ore, 3,000 feet; separate and distinct from it, was organized place its width-to be within bounds-at roo under the name of the Chelan Transportation feet, and the known height of the ore at 400 & Smelting company, to take care of the trans• feet, which gives .a total of 12o,ooo,ooo cubic portation and smelting end of the proposition. feet of ore. It takes IO cubic feet of solid ore, The Holden ore is what is known as self-flux• or 12 (some say 13) feet of loose ore to make ing smelting ore. The latter company entered a ton. At 12 cubic feet to the ton it equals ro,• into contract with the former to transport ooo,ooo tons of ore, which at $r8 per ton, the and smelt the ore at minimum price lowest average of all the assays, gives the stu per ton, and to have a smelter in operation at pendous value to the ore now in sight and easily the expiration of the fit:st two years. The of• demonstrable of $r8o,ooo,ooo. Or to let it ficers of the company are: Fred R. Thompson, down still lower, plae the average value of the of Seattle, president; G. A. Gordon, of San ore at $r2 per ton, and it still shows the value Francisco, vice-president; Thomas Malony, of of the ore in sight to equal the enormous sum Olympia, secretary and treasurer; R. D. John• of $12o,ooo,ooo. Where can anything ap• son, of Spokane, general manager. proaching· this mine in magnitude and wealth The Entiat Valley bids fair to be noted at be found? Certainly not elsewhere in the state no distant day for its mining industries alto• of Washington. together, aside from its rich agricultural. re• "Taking into account the fact that the Hoi- sources. Extensive ledges of copper and gold

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

are known to exist far up toward the head of of these claims is about 2,ooo feet above the Entiat river. They are gold-bearing min• sea level. At the ra:nch, one mile below, a erals as well as galena, and they pr sent a two-stamp mill has peen installed, with an ex• virgin field, having hardly been prospected cellent wagon road leading to it. At this mill · to an extent. The most prominent and the ores are crushed, the values being saved by best developed mines in the Entiat valley are a sluice box and riffles, similar in all respects near the lower end and easily accessible. They to placer mining. It is the opinion of Mr. were discovered during the years 1902-3 by Crum that he saves, in this cru_de manner, an Mr. and Mrs. E. J. Crum. They were farmers average value of $40 per ton. Mrs.Crum is who had settled a short distance up a spring herself an enthusiastic and successful prospec• branch, flowing into the Entiat river. At pres• tor. About one and one-half miles above the ent Mr. and Mrs. Crum are located on a pro• Rex m.eshe recently located the North Star ductive ranch. From the town of Entiat to claim, at an elevation of 2,200 feet, with three the mines the distance is about ten mild by a feet of hard quartz, well mineralized between roundabout road, although an air-line route granite walls. would fall within two or three miles. The pre• Of the Horseshoe Basin Mines the Chelan cipitiousness of the mountain renders such a Leader, of date August 14, 1903, says: road impossible. These mines are known as "T. S. Burgoyne is president of the Horse• the Rex and Ethel. The ledge extending in a shoe Basin Mining & Development Company, northeasterly and southwesterly direction is which owns the Black Warrior on one ledge about six feet wide between well defined gran• and three claims on another and parallel ledge, ite walls, faced with talc. The ledge matter is known as the Davenport Nos. r, 2, and 3· The decomposed quartz, carrying free gold, easily Black Warrior was located about 1891 by panned and exceedingly rich. In close con• Messrs. Pershall and Kingman, who also dis• tact to the walls are particularly rich streaks, covered and located the Davenport later. They while the middle strata runs much lower in are east and west ledges, the Black Warrior values. Still, with proper appliances for treat• lying at an aJtitude of 6,ooo feet, and the ment it is all "pay ore," the latter assaying $ro Davenport (outcropping and sudace develop• per ton. Some picked samples have shown ment) at between 8,ooo and 9,000 feet. The assays running over $1,700 per ton. The pres• Black Warrior varies in width from 20 to 30 ent development consists, aside from a number feet, with a pay streak of two to eight feet, car• of open cuts, of an So-foot tunnel, run in on the rying galena and chalcopyrites, wit11 silver ledge, and an upraise to the surface of between values. A ton of the Davenport ore shipped 70 and 8o feet, all heavily timbered, which is to the smelter gave a return of $74 in lead, necessitated by the loose, crumbling natu _<;'- of copper, silver and gold. Assays on the latter the ledge. For about 300 feet the ledge is have given as high as $28 in gold, $9 r in silver easily traced on the surface. and $35 in lead. Only a few rods away from the tunnel and "To develop the Davenport two companies, higher up on the mountain is another open cut the one under consideration and the Cascade on another vein in five or six feet. At the grass Gold & Copper Mining Company, are n;mning roots the vein pans coarser gold than the first a joint tunnel, and a force of men and ample ledge mentioned, some of the particles being supplies were taken in last fall, and work was half as large as a pin head. One pan test continued during the whole winter for the first yielded nearly a teaspoonful of yellow metal. time in the history of Horseshoe Basin. The ,At the point of development the altitude snowfall was over so feet and sometimes it.

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

took the men days of "tunnelling through snow feet. The ore is pyrites of copper and gold ancll to find the mouth of the tunnel after a night assays show an average to the ton of $ro2.70. 'or a day or so lay-off. They have built comfort• This is the average of the whole six feet of the able cabins this year and electric drills are be• ledge. ing installed and Mr. Burgoyne thought they "These claims were first discovered about would be in operation within ten days. The ·four years ago and the company has been peg• tunnel is now 75 feet in, but the work will pro• ging away at dev. lopment work since, until gress much faster with the electric drills. They. now they have what promises to be a valuable have 300 feet more to go to strike the ledge, at mine. It is a tramway proposition, by which a depth of 700 feet, which will probably be ac• the ore can be landed cheaply and expeditiously complished by January I, 1904." upon the lake shore. Aside from the mineral The Baker Mountain Mining Company, in value of the claims they are situated in the which Judge 0. P. Mason, of Seattle, is inter• midst of the finest scenery in the lake country. ested, owns properties located on the head• Mr. A. L. Cool, one of thowners, was for• waters of Thunder creek. Associated with tunate in securing a homestead claim on the Judge Mason are Fred Mears and R. S. Mears,· shore of Dumke's lake-which is about r,ooo of Minneapolis; R. B. Mears, of Topeka, Kan• feet higher than Lake Chelan-before the for• sas; J. M. Allen, Minneapolis; Professor Ed• est reserve law went into effect." ward M. Shepard, Springfield, Missouri, Seventeen claims are owned by the Cascade state geologist, and who is also connected with Consolidated Mining & Smelting Company, lo• the United States Geological Survey, and cated at Doubtful lake, on the headwaters of Henry S. Volman, of Milbank, South Dakota, the Stehekin river, in- Cascade Pass, on the editor and proprietor of the Grant County Re• present Great Northern survey, and 25 miles view. Judge Mason reports these properties ·west of Stehekin. Concerning this property as being in a very prosperous condition. A Mr. Rowse said: ·300-foot tunnel is in process of construction, "The company is capitalized at $85o,ooo, which will cross-cut one of the ledges on the and we have a group of very rich claims up company's property. It is the intention of these there at Doubtful lake. Over $zo,ooo has been parties to install a 55-ton Vulcan smelter. The expended in development work and several company's property is about 30. miles from are in over 200 feet. A saw mill is Stehekin, just across the Park creek divide now being built, which we expect to finish this from Horseshoe Basin. Judge Mason is presi• winter, and then we shall be in a position to dent of the company. erect many good fram.e buildings. Four of Speaking of the Emerald Park mines the the claims have been put in shape for shipping Chelan Leader) ?f November 6, 1903, says: ore. All the claims are so located on a moun• "The Copper Queen group of eight clairns tain side so that one tunnel can pass through is situated above and back of Dumke's lake, at all the ledges, opening them up at a depth of an altitude of 6,0oo feet. above sea level, and from 300 to 3,000 feet. This tunnel will so 'about five miles from Lake Chelan, at Railroad drain the mines that there will be no expense creek bar. The width of the ledge is six feet. for pumping plants. There is plenty. of timber The point of discovery is against a steep cliff. and water to be had. The veins in these mines A tunnel was begun roo feet lower, in which are true fissure and are from four to fifty feet the ore was struck almost at once. Besides sev• in width, giving values in gold, silver, copper eral open cuts this tunnel has been run in 2 5 and lead. Returns from the United States

45

;o6 HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON..

Survey office at Seattle, A. McCollough, B. A., ible, feels greasy and will leave a trace on pa• M. E., Tacoma and others, give $22.60, per like soft graphite, which mineral it resem• $88.36, $75.08, $IIo and $57.56 per ton. bles, but is much more fiexible, and its color is "We will install compressor drills and a a bluish gray. In chemistry alone over three concentrator this coming spring, and just as thousand tons are used annually. The moly• soon as possible we will also put in a smelter bdic acid sold by wholesale druggists at thirty• plant. \lV e are working continually on the five cents per ounce and molybdenum powder, mines and expect to make still greater showing quoted at $2.62 per kilogram, or $2,380 per by spring." ton, are extracted from molybdenite. This The officers of this company are George L. metal is in great demand in the manufacture Rowse, president, Seattle; Charles M. Baxter, of armor plate, crucible vessels, self-hardening vice-president, Castle Rock, vVashingtoq; vV. tool steel,. in coating large cartridges used in A. C. Rowse, secretary and treasurer, Kelso, rapid-firing guns on battleships, also in gun vVashington. The headquarters of the company metal, in the manufacture of jewelry, or as a are located in Seattle. lubricant, and heat has no effect on it whatever. The Doubtful Lake camp, which lies to the The _company has two veins of molybdenite westward of Horseshoe Basin, and nearer Cas• and the white quartz in which it is found also cade Pass, was discovered by the Rowses, canies free gold. On the same claims, not far George and John, partners, but not relatives, in .from the molybdenite mine is a thirty-foot I 886. This was three years before the dis• ledge, carrying gold, silver and copper of a · covery of mining opportunities in Horseshoe gross value of $103.32 per ton. Considerable Basin. Their principal location was the Quien of this molybdenite has already been shipped Sa be. to the United States gun works, located near Eighteen miles up Railroad creek from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. One shipment of Lake Chelan is an extensive molybdenite mine, behveen 900 and r ,ooo pounds was made late the only development of the kind in the state last fall, which realized $4.50 per pound. Mr. of vVashington, if not in the United States. It Rubin, 'Yho has charge of the development is the property of the Crown Point Mineral \York of this property, has succeeded in secur• company, with headquarters at Seattle. Tis ing a piece about eight inches square, which is mine is unique in mining experiences in the 'to be shipped to the St, Louis World's Fair. Pacific northwest, or on the continent for that The country rock of the Lake Chelan dis• matter, there being only six places in the world trict is granite, amid which lie great dikes of where molybdenite is mined in paying quan• porphyry. The ledges are usually if the con• tities-Sweden, Norway, Bohemia, Saxony tact between these two. rocks in the Meadow New South 'vVales and in Chelan county-and creek district, their course being slightly 11owhere in the five former places are so large south of west and north of east. In 1891 the pieces, or "kidneys" found as in the latter first prospecting was done from row boats on place. The metal is among the rarest known the lake, whence the croppings of mineral were to geologists. Few people have ever heard of could be descried along the mountains on each it, and still fewer have any idea of its uses or side. The heights were scaled the following value. year and more thoroughly explored. The Blue Molybdenite is a rare and precious metal, Jay, on the east bank of Meadovv creek, one which occurs in granite, gneiss, mica schist and thousand feet above the east bank of the lake, granular limestone. It is found in thin, foli• was discovered by Captain Charles Johnson, ated, hexagonal plates or masses; is very flex- of Lakeside. It is.now being developed by the .

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

Chelan Gold Mining Company. The red iron familiar iron cap, which is a sure sign of min• cappings of the ledge rise in a series of big eral deposif throughout the Cascades, or in the swells on both sides of and above a slide, in Gold Range.· which the crumbled, iron-stained rock slopes Down by. the glaciers of Horseshoe Basin for 200 feet down to the west bench. It is a galena ledges have been traced twelve miles clearly defined ledge of iron and copper py• eastward to the head of Bridge creek, twenty• rites from 30 to 45 feet wide between walls of three and one-half miles by trail from Stehekin. porphyry and granite, the line of cleavage be• They are found parallel, or associated with the ing marked by seams of quartz. Eight feet of ledges of pyritic ore in a formation of granite the ledge is white quartz, and ten feet diorite, and porphyry. Of the Tiger group of claims exactly like that of other sulphide districts. owned by H. 0. Hollenbeck, Van Smith, Pro• Assays of surface ore showed that it carried fessor Piper, George Young, H. Willis Carr $8 in gold, twelve per cent. copper, and a little and others, three claims are on a ledge fifty silver. The Blue Jay has been traced eastward feet wide, running northeast and southwest, where it widens to sixty feet on the two Gem near the head of the north fork. Three pay claims, owned by Captain Johnson, and on the streaks are shown by the troppings, 24, r8 and Blue Jay extension, owned by 0. Graham, of 6 inches wide, two of them carrying galena, Anacortes, where a 30-fooot open cut and tun• steel galena, gray copper and sulphurets, as nel showed it to be well mineralized, with a pay shown in a 20-foot open cut, while a 12-foot streak carrying $10 to $19 in gold and har£ of shaft shows the third to change from large ga• that in silver. FurtheJJ extension eastward lena crystals to s11lphides. Assays range from traces the ledge through the Winnipeg,. owned 103 to 176 ounces of silver, and uniformly by A. Crumrine, the two Iron Cross claims of show about $24 in gold. Three other claims Messrs. Turner and Bull, and onward to the are on a parallel ledge five feet wide, in which summit. Five distinct ledges parallel with the a twenty foot tunnel shows a 14-inch streak Blue Jay have been traced, some of them to the of white iron assaying $6 gold and $8 silver, summit of the Methow range. besides copper. The Stehekin district, with a story of a lost Of the Wenatchee District Mr. L. K. Hod• mine, dating back to r88o, has a mining his• ges says: tory commencing in the year r885. Along the The city of Wenatchee· is known chiefly as the summit of the range it extends northward outfitting point for the distriCts in Okanogan county from Cascade Pass, including the entire water north of it, being the connecting pqint of the Great shed of the Stehekin river. On Doubtful lake, Northern Railroad and the Columbia river steamer line, but it also has the making of a mining camp at its back north of the pass, discoveries began and these door, within three miles of it by wagon road. The ore extended to Horseshoe Basin and along each is low grade bearing gold and a small proportion of side of the Steheki'n canyon, up Park and silver, but it is in such large deposits that, if worked on a considerable scale with modern methods and skill• Bridge creeks, · flowing from the right, and ful management, it would pay handsome dividends. thence up Agnes and Company creeks to the The deposit is a great dike of porphyry in which are 1eft. The high grade ore from these proper• numerous veins of quartz, and extends over three miles ties. would pay a handsome profit on shipment in an almost due north and south course from· Squil• chuck creek to. Canyon No. 2, directly back of the town to the smelter. Of two kinds is the ore-one among the foothills. The principal work in this district carrying galena, gray copper and sulphides in has beem done on the Golden King group ·of three which silver is the principal value, although claims, located by M. J. Carkeek, of Seattle, and is owned by ·the Golden King Mining Company, of Se• there is a large admixture of gold; the other attle. nrrying iron and copper sulphides under the The dike is a veritable landmark in the Squilchuck

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

canyon, standing out on the north side, one mile from from the bars at the mouth of Negro creek, giving that the Columbia, from roo to ISO feet wide between walls stream its name. It was not until I874 that the first of bastard granite rising in a great cluster of pinnacles quartz ledge was discovered. In that year John Shafer ancl spires of bright red, yellow and brown to a height located the Culver on a ledge of free milling ore near of ISO feet above the road and growing taller toward the summit of the ·mountain dividing the Negro creek the crest of the hill until it reaches an elevation of soo canyon on the one s de hom the Culver draw on the feet. The whole dike is more or less mineralized, the other, but was a short time behind Samuel Culver, who porphyry carrying about $2 gold besides silver, but the located the Polepick on a parallel ledge. Culver then best value is in the quartz stringers, which range in took the Humming Bird on another ledge, James Lock• width from six inches to seven feet, and have given wood staked out the Bobtail adjoining it, and John assays ranging from $4 to $r6. The dike is so thor• Olden and Peter Wilder took the Fraction; John Olden oughly mineralized from the very surface that it could and Samuel Culver the Little Culver. All these claims be mined very cheaply, in fact it could be quarried out, except the Polepick and Little Culver were shortly after• and with a large stamp mill reduced profitably. ward bought by James Lockwood and his son, E. W. Lockwood, and H.. M. , who erected a six-stamp The Peshastin and Negro creeks districts mill with one Frue Vanner, which they operated by Mr. Hodges describes as follows : water power. The mill reduced eight tons of ore in twenty-four hours, and the cleanup from the first nine About midway between the two transcontinental days' run was $2,100. The company also had an arrastre railroads which traverse the state of VI!ashington ·from with a capacity of one thousand pounds a day, of which east to west lies the district where the .first stamp mill the product averaged $70 a day. After running the in the state was erected. Taking the Northern Pacific mine and mil for eight years this company sold it to train from Seattle Cle-elum, 122 miles, one can ride or Thomas Johnson, who shut down after a short run. drive to Blewett, the center of the district, a distance Then arose the dispute as to the ownership of the prop• of thirty-two miles over a good road, or taking the erty which culminated in the killing of William Dona• Great Northern train to Leavenworth, ISO miles, one hue by Thomas Johnson in r8g6, but this did 10t pre• can go over a good road fourteen miles to the mouth of vent the sale in r8gr to the Culver Gold Mining Com• Ingalls creek, and thence by trail five miles to the camp pany. This company erected a ten-stamp mill with four farthest up Negro creek or four miles to Blewett. A Woodbury concentrators · and stretched a bucket cable road four miles long would close the only gap in the tramway from the mill to the Culver mine, one-fifth road between the two railroads. · mile. Some ore was shipped before the completion of The mineral belt through which ·Peshastin creek the mill, one lot returning $8oo a ton. flows northward into the Wenatchee river, receiving In 1892 the Culver Company sold out to the Blew• Ingalls and Negro creeks as tributaries from the west, ett Gold Mining Company, composed of Seattle, capi• and Ruby creek from the east, has a totally different talists, and this con1pany set to work to thoroughly de• geological formation from the country north and south velop the·1nine and mill its ores. of it. To the north, from a line cutting across the Chi• On the Culver group are three parallel ledges be• wah river some distance above its mouth is a sandstone tween walls of serpentine and porphyry, that of the formation which terminates on the northwest about Culver itself being from two to ten feet wide, with oc• the mouth of Icicle creek, a granite formation lying casional bunches of ore sixteen feet wide. The body north of it up the Chiwah river to Red Hill. About of the ore is a reddish gray quartz and there occasion• seven miles up the Peshastin this sandstone gives way ally occurs on the walls a transparent green talc with to a series of strata of metamorphic rocks, including white crystals, through which, as in a magnifying glass, serpentine, syenite, diorite, magnesian limestone, talc, the flakes of free go1d can be plainly seen. The Hum• porphyry, porphyritic quartzite and granite. In the ming Bird· and Bobtail ledge is two to four feet wide, dikes of porphyritic quartzite occur ledges of nickel, and contains a 'blue quartz carrying a larger percentage silver and copper ore and some gold with gouges of talc, of sulphurets thathe Culver. The Fractio1 edge !s the dikes having a general trend from northwest to about the same s1ze and character and runs fiigher ·m southeast, but bending generally more to an east and iron sulphurets. As depth is attained the free gold runs west line. On the one side this belt terminates two out and the ore becomes base. The value runs all the miles southeast of Blewett, and to the west it gradually way from $8 to $20 in free gold with occasional pockets widens toward the base of :rviount Stuart, which peak as high as $700, and it carries a trace of silver. The it includes. It extends into the Swauk district, where group has been developed by a number of tunnels ag• it forms a basin and swings to the northwest. gregating several thousand feet, the longest of which is Mineral was first discovered in this district about 6oo feet attaining a depth of 300 feet on the Humming r86o by a party of miners returning from Fraser river, Bird. but they only worked the placers and gradually drifted 'J.'he company erected a twenty-stamp mill at the away. One of them, a negro, took out $r,roo in a season, ·mouth of Culver draw, near the old Lockwood mill,

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

allowing space for twenty more stamps, and had four A year or two later, owing to the death of Marshall Woodbury concentrators, the whole plant having boiler Blinn, the organizer of the company, the mill stopped capacity for forty stamps. The bucket tramway was and has never resumed. For a time the property w·as moved to the new site and the mill equipped with every under bond to Edward Blewett, who ran a tunnel 200 labor-saving appliance, including self-feeders ito the feet in an endeavor to trace the ledge into the Culver, stamps. A steam saw-mill was erected three miles up of which it has the characteristics and the same value the creek with a capacity of w,ooo feet a day, and sawed in free gold, and several open cuts have been made, lumber for the mill buildings, the mine and repairs to ' showing ore in a number of places. The Culver ledge the road and bridges over which the machinery was spreads out toward the summit, and is divided by horses hauled from Cle-elum. Th.e development of the mine of syenite, which rock forms the hanging wall, and then and operation of the mill were continued together by disappears. the company until 1894, when the system of leasing Much of the gold in early days was lost by the mill• sections of the mines to small associations of miners ing of ore in arrastres, three of which were built and was inaugurated, and has been continued with good one of which is now in operation at intervals. vVhen results ever since, it being found that when miners have it is remembered that the fine copper sulphides which a direct interest in the product they sort the ore more go off in foam cannot be saved even by cy'anide and that carefully than when working for wages. During r896 only pan amalgamation is effective with them, one can the mill reduced 2,469 tons of Culver ore, from which imagine how much value is lost by such a rude mill as the extraction averaged $12.62 a ton, and 473 tons of an arrastre. In the spring of 1896 the Blewett company customs. The product of the Blewett company in bul• sold the ten-stamp mill to Thomas Johnson, who had lion was about $6o,ooo for the year 1896. been milling the Polepick ore in it, with the addition of It having been found that with the most careful canvas tables. This mine has a quartz ledge varying milling the arsenic in the ore floured the quicksilver on from eighteen to thirty-six inches, and occasionally the plates and thus prevented it from catching the gold; widening to five feet. Assays range from $ro to $132 also that much of the fine copper sulphides escaped in· in free gold, and average about $27. Development be• the slime in the shape of foam, the tailings have been gan with a cross-cut tunnel 237 feet from which an reserved in dams, with a view to further treatment by upraise was made r47 feet, in ore all the way. A drift some improved process. This was established in the has been run roo feet west from the upraise at the summer of 1896 and is a small cyanide plant erected roo-foot level, on which stoping is being done, and an• under the direction of A. J Morse for Rosenberg & other upraise has been started. Adjoining this claim Company, one of the parties of lessees. It has a capacity on another ledge three feet wide. is Polepick No. 2, of ten tons a day and throughout the winter. has been owned by Dexter, Shoudy & Company, on which a treating the tailings, of which 6oo tons, containing from tunnel has been run eighty feet, showing ore which $3 to $30 in gold per ton, had accumulated and had ex• assays $28. tracted from 70 to 75 per cent of the value. This plant On the Culver draw is the Phoenix, on which D. T. has demonstrated the presence in the ores of substances Cross and John F. Dore, of S

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

about eighty tons of ore, which yielded about $zr a ton of Ingalls creek, is the state group of six in free gold and eight tons of concentrates worth $roo a ton. claims. On what was supposed to be the Culver kdge J. L. Of the Leavenworth district Mr. Hodges Warner and his associates have the Lightning, with the says: White Elephant and Pine Tree on parallel ledges. They have simply kept up assessment work, driving a The last few years have proved the presence of a thirty-foot tunnel on the Pine Tree. great mineral zone in the mountains on. each side of the A short distance above the· Culver draw, on the west Chiwah Canyon, as in other _parts of the Cascade range, side of the canyon, Dexter, Shoudy & Company are and development is proceeding with such vigor that a working the Black Jack on a ledge of blue quartz two year or two more should s4ffice to make the district a to five feet wide.· The same parties own the Eureka, regular producer. The Leavenworth District is easily on the other side of the canyon, on a three-foot -ledge accessible from Seattle. Leaving that city on the Great which assays $r6.64 gold, and on which· a tunnel ha Northern train, one goes to Leavenworth, rsr miles, and been driven forty feet. The owners bought the arrastre · then goes northward by a good road to Shugart's ranch, built by John Shafer sixteen years ago, and are milling fourteen miles, and by trail to either the Phelps basin or the ore in it. The Polepick, Peshastin, Black Jack and the Chiwah basin, thirty-eight miles in each case. These the Johnson mill have been bonded to parties in the basins are one at each side of a high ridge ten miles east who contemplate working them together. On the long, known as Red Hill to distinguish it from Red Marion, Charles Donahue has three veins; one of which Mountain in the Trail Creek district. The first dis• is eight feet wide and carries $6 in free milling and $9 cove-ry of mineral on this mountain was made i1r r893 concentrating ore. On the Gem is a five-foot ledge ·of by George N. Watson, who found in a low saddle on the concentrating ore which assays $8 to $r6 gold and 75 summit, between porphyry and granite walls, a ledge cents to 54 ounces of silver. Between the Peshastin and of iron pyrites four feet wide, runing a Iitle east of the Gem is the Manistee, owned by William Donahue's south and west of north, with a slight eastward dip. heirs, Dore and Cross. A tunnel has been driven 140 feet . He located the Emerald, and this ledge . has since been on a broken horse on the surface, and the ledge has not traced on the surface through a string of claims for been found in place. about five miles. On a parallel ledge he and Dr. L. L. Porter, of Roslyn, have the Esmeralda, which a shaft Among the other mines in the Peshastin forty-two feet deep and drifts twenty-six and twelve feet have shown to widen from eighteen inches on the district are-the Caledonia group of four claims, surface to five feet. The ore is arsenical iron and. on three parallel ledges ; the Sunset near the copper sulphides and assays $I4 gold, 33 per cent copper Tip Top, at the head of the basin, owned by and a small amount of silver. The largest property on the mountain is the Red Oliver Cloud and John Gilmore; the War Cap and Bryan groups of twenty claims, owned by the Eagle group, about a mile up Negro creek; Una Mining & Milling Company, of Seattle, covering the New York group, on the divide between over soo acres from the Phelps Basin southward and Negro and Ingalls creeks; the Eagle and Iowa, from the summit down to Phelps creek, with a tunnel site on the Chiwah side, two of the claims being placers across the creek from the Cascade Mining Com• in the flat at the confluenc,e of the Chiwah and Phelps pany's group; the Daisy Dean, farther up the creek. The majority of claims are on the main ledge, creek, owned by the Donahue estate; the Ra• or system of ledges, while five run continuously for 7,500 feet along the main cross ledge, which has a nier group of thirteen claims, with two mill course south of west and north of east, breaking through sites still farther up the creek; the ; granite, gneiss and syenite and dipping slightly to the the Red Butte Nos. r. and 2; the Union ai1d northwest into the mountain. It shows well mineralized chutes of ore on the surface, carrying chalcopyrite, Dominion on Bear creek; the P. P. Nickel, and pyrites of iron, copper and some maganese. The lowest on the north side is the Ontario. assay from the surface was $3.73 gold and the highest On the south side of the creek is the Me• $72 gold, but copper will also form a large part of the ridian, and next in order is the North Pole value. The main ledge has ore bodies showing in num• erous places, heavily charged with arsenical and· sul• group of ten claims; the Ivanhoe No. 5 ; the phide ·ores, assaying from $3 to $r8o gold. The average Cinnabar King, and on the first dike which cuts value of the ore through the mountain is $so gold and across the Peshastin is another string of silver, on the basis of a number of assays. * * * The Bryan group lies on the south edge of the company's claims. On the right bank are the Monarch holdings, and has a ledge showing 3y;; feet of solid Nos. Iand 2, and five miles above the mouth ore, heavily charged with copper sulphurets and native

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON. 7II

copper in bunches. Another ledge farther up the moun• ten feet wide, showing sulphurets, and former owners tain shows twenty-five feet of talc carrying sulphides, had run a cross-cut 3!0 feet to tap it and then aban• and will be tapped at a great depth by the cross-cut doned it for lack of funds. The other ledge shows tunnel, and yet another, which cuts the red cliffs forming pyritic ore and is well defined to a width of fifteen feet the rim of the basin, has been defined to a width of between -walls of syenite and porphyry runing southeast seven feet, with only the hanging wall found. and northwest, assaying $4 to $7 in gold on the surface, The company which -has been most active in de- and has an east and west spur on the summit. A cross• velopment until the advent of the Una was the Red Hill cut has been run about 300 feet to tap it at a depth of ·Mining Company, which owns ten claims on the two 250 feet. , main ledges running across Phelps creek south of the On the Fall Creek canyon, half a mile from the Una property. On the Black Bear a tunnel has been Chiwah, is the Big Elephant group of six claims on a run sixteen feet, showing a twelve-foot ledge carrying large ledge of hematite ore, defined by a twelve-foot open copper and iron sulphides, which assayd $2.51 to $29 cut, carrying gold, silver and copper which assays on gold and silver; -On the White Swan ledge, traced for the surface $3 to $9 gold and $3.75 silver. some distance to a width of eight feet, a forty-foot tun• At the mouth of Deep creek the Deep Creek Min• nel showed arsenical iron assaying $12 to $r8 gold, sil• ing Company has a group of thirteen placer claims and ver and copper. The Red Mountain- Mining Company a hydraulic giant. The dirt carried about twenty-six also owns ten claims on the two main ledges, but has cents a yard and about ninety pet cent of the value is not as yet done any development. saved in the sluice boxes with silver plates, though the Until lately but little development has been done on gold in the Chiwah bar is generally so fine that it can Red Hill, but the movement which has begun may be only be saved by great care and skill. expected to spur owriers on to show what there is be• On the Rock Creek canyon, half a mile from the neath the surface. Near the mouth of Maple creek Chiwah, is the P. I. group of two claims. The surface Charles Allen has the Champion group of five claims, showing in a gneiss blow-out of oxidized iron, carrying where there were evidences of the presence of white men gold and silver, and one streak of ore assayed 444 ounces as early as the year r866. One ledge cropped eight to of silver. A cross-cut tunnel is in sixty-seven feet.

CHAPTER IV.

CITIES AND TOWNS.

WENATCHEE. caused by the \!I,Tenatchee flowing into the Col• umbia river a short distance above the town. Wenatchee, named after the famous Indian According to the patois of other tribes "We• chief, is 669 feet above sea level, in the foot• natchee" means "good place." But there is hills of the Cascade mountains, on the west another romantic derivation of the name ac• bank of the Columbia, a short distance south cording to certain authorities, who have made of the mouth of the Wenatchee river, and on a comprehensive study of Indian traditions. By the main line of the Great Northern Railway. them it is said that the word "Wenatchee" is Its location on this road is about midway be• derived from the romance of the "blood daugh• tween Spokane and Seattle. ter of the widowed moon." Beautiful and pos• There are a number of varying definitions . sessed of all the graces that contribute to make ascribed to the word "Wenatchee." To the Ya• maidens adorable was the young princess. At kima Indian it igrti:fies "boiling· waters," and :first she was admired and subsequently pas• this name was, doubtless given to the town by sionately loved by the sun. But the moon, ac• the natives becp,use of the unusual commotion cording to this fanciful legend, deemed the sun

7I2 HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

much too old to woo the fair princess, not yet are three places in eastern Washington for arrived at the age when she knew her own which many tribes have a profound venera• heart, and had fixed her wish upon the mar• tion. It is only a few years since they con• riage of her ·daughter with a younger, if less sented to release their claims to Spokane, dazzling, yet handsome chief of the sky. But abandon their tribal relations to take up their the wayward maiden loved the majestic sun. abode with Chief Moses.· For the various For a long period Mother Moon remained tribes of the northwest Wenatchee has ever awake at night, keeping vigil over the move• been a favorite spot. There is scarcely a mem• ments of her daughter, lest the mighty sun ber of the Colville, Snake, or Columbia River, should bear her away. Already the sun had Palouse, Coeur d'Alene, or Spokane tribes woven for her a bridal robe ·of threads spun that has not a lingering veneration for the from the rainbow, and one day while the moon place, and their stolid hearts grow tender at slumbered the princess arrayed herself in this the mention of Wenatchee. For ages they con• beautiful, luminous garment, and went down vened here in annual council, to engage in wor• to the sea, to wed with the sun. Shortly after ship or sport, to prepare their catch of fish for her departure the moon awoke and hastened the winter, or to make their sanguinary ar• in pursuit of the fugitive lovers. On the moon's rangements for war. Here the swart brave approach the maiden shrieked and fled to the wooed and won the dusky maiden just as suc• mountains upon a bar of silvery lightning, ceeding generations are doing today. Than the hurled by her rejected· princely lover from his Indian there is no race with keener powers of place in the sky. In the dark despair of her observation or discernment. Of distances and ten'or the princess flung her gorgeous mantle directions he possesses an instinctive knowl• over the mountain top and concealed herself in edge. Their trails which only a short time the heart of the cliffs, where from that evil day since were still visible, with the approach of until the present she has dwelt in seclusion, be• civilization were adapted by government supply wailing her sad fate. It is the Indian's belief trains, stockmen and later by wagon and rail• that her melancholy, yet musical voice. floats roads. out upon the \Vind ·whenever the night is still. The first "business house" in Wenatchee The robe still hangs where it was cast by the was established, possibly so early as r867. In affrighted maiden, from the mountain top and that year two men whose names were Ingra• over its sides, in the form of a river, and yet ham and McBride opened a trading post at possessing all the hues of the rainbow, when what is now Rock Island, and carried on a the sun comes dmvn through gorge and glen thriving. trade with the Indians. Sometime to caress its rippling folds. And it is called afterward these men moved their post to the Wa-Nat-Chee, or "Robe of the Rainbow." mouth of the VVenatchee river, where the first Thus we have three distinct definitions of the town ,of vVenatchee afterward made its appear• word "Wenatchee," to select from: "Boiling ance. Ingraham & McBride's chief stock in Waters," "Good Place" and "Robe of the trade was whiskey, which they sold to the In• "Rainbow." dians. In 872 these men, in order to evade There are few cities of importance in the the law which they had broken by selling liquor state of Washington in which Indians during to Indians, were obliged to leave in some haste, the early days of exploration and settlement and their business was purchased that year by did not congregate for the purpose of holding Samuel Miller and the Freer Brothers. councils of war, or participating in seasons of The original bu'ilding in the Wenatchee sport. Spokane, Walla Walia and Wenatchee Valley was a log structure built in J 872 by

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

Samuel Miller, just north of the present town town of Wenatchee. By a system of lot trading of Wenatchee. It was used for years by Mr. with the settlers of the "North End" buildings Miller as a trading post, and in later years was and residents were soon located on the new the postoffice building, It was an ancient land• site. mark familiar to the old timers-miners and Probably the first mercantile house worthy prospectors-who worked all through this of the name vvas established in Wenatchee by country in the early days, and many events con.:. w H. Merriam. There had been Indian trad• nected with the history of the Wenatchee Val• ing posts in the neighborhood previous to this; ley have their foundation in the old "Sam Mil• but nothing approaching the dignity of a mod• ler" trading post. In r888 a Mr. McPherson ern "store." Mrs. Arzilla Tripp was the first established a store on the bank of the Columbia woman to make her permanent home in Wenat river, about three-quarters of a mile above the chee. With her husband she came here early in present site of Wenatchee. That same summer r883. May 20, I89I, vVenatchee had gainea another little store came in and was located in population of ro8 people. . a tent. The goods for these stores were In Wenatchee the first fraternal bonds were freighted over the mountains from Ellensburg \Velded Saturday evening, October ro, r89r, by wagons. The roads were in a terrible con• when a council of the ]1.mior Order United dition and several days were required in which American Mechanics was instituted. It num• to make the trip. Here was established a post• bered among its charter members some of the office and Samuel Miller was made postmaster. staunchest business men and more prosperous At that period mail arrived in Wenatchee only ranchers in Wenatchee and vicinity, and the twice a week, being carried by stage over the council was christened "Wenatchee No. 12." mountains between vVenatchee and Ellensburg. Deputy State Councilor Boyle conducted the During·the winter of r888 and r889 Mr. Mc• \Vork of institution. He was assisted by Henry Pherson rnoved his store back farther into the Sharp and other members of the order residing valley to what was later known as the "North at Ellensburg. Following were the officers End.". The postoffice was removed from Mr. elected: M. Horan, Charles B. Reed and Jacob Miller's; a hotel was built and within a short Miller, trustees ; Mr. Horan, Jr., P. C. ; James time there was quite a little village in the L Weythman, C.; Jacob Miller, V. C.; W. E. "North End." Stevens, R. S.; J. Vv. Bolenbaugh, treasurer; Originally the town of Wenatchee was lo• D. A. Curry, Com.; George vV. Brown, I. S.; -cated about one mile north of its present site. E. E. Clemmens, F. E.; D. W. Perry, 0. S. It was named in 1888 by its founder, Don Car• January 7, 1892, the population of Wenat• los Corbett, from the old Indian chief, Vvenat• chee had jumped to three hundred. Tuesday chee. A number of wide-awake western men, evening, March 8, in response to a general de• fully alive to the possibilities of the surround• mand of public sentiment an anti-Chinese meet• ing country, organized in 1891, the Weh tchee ing assembled in Vvenatchee, at which the at• Development Company. They made a number tendance was large and the personnel represen• of purchases during the survey of the Seattle, tative citizens both in and out of town. Frank Lake Shore & Eastern Railway, now the Seat• Reeves called the assembl)together and suc• tle division of the Northern Pacific. In 1892, cinctly stated the object of the meeting. Hon• following the completion of the Great Northern orable Michael Horan was elected chairman Railway, the vVenatchee Development Com• and George Kline served as sercetary. A ris• pany, closely in touch with James]. Hill's road, ing 'vote -on the question to exclude Mongolians surveyed and platted the present site of the from the town exhibited marked unanimity, but

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

one man declining to come to his feet, and even natchee Development Company, which owned he refused to vote in the negative: The ques• a large portion of the property' in the vicinity, tion concerning the m.odus opemndi of exclu• and which was in close touch with the Great sion was then discussed at length. Methods Northern Railway officials, platted the town employed in Pierce county were outlined and and ordered the change. Within five days recommended by the chairman of the meeting. $wo,ooo worth of property was sold in the new Ways and means were described graphically by townsite. The company exchanged lots in the L, E. Kusel as in force in California towns, new townsite for old town lots and moved the particularly in Eureka. Seemingly alone in his buildings to the new site free of charge. Some views was Mr. N. N. Brown, who spoke at antagonism to the work of this company was length against the wisdom of an exclusion act. manifested by a few of the citizens, but nearly It was quite evident that there existed no de• aU d_ecided to make the change, and early in sire for mob violence, while the wish to deport Jurie, most of the opposition disappearing, the the Celestials was nearly unanimous. It was transfer of buildings was made. The 1/V enat• moved by W. J. Bowen that a committee of six chee Advance of June 2, said: be elected to see that no Chinamen were per• "A number of businesses are making the mitted to locate within the limits of Wenatchee. change of location today, and a majority of the This motion was amended by C. F. B. Haskell others will follow immediately. The bank is to confining the power of such a committee to coming, two livery stables are now under course • "honorable, legal and lawful means," and with of construction, grocery and general merchan• this amendment the motion prevaiied. Follow• dise stores will be here early in the week, res• i ng are the names of the committee elected: taurants will follow up, butcher shops are now Michael Horan, chairman; W. E. Stevens; on the road and soon the "whole works" will be · W. J. Bowen; J. A. Moorehead; George W. located in the town of Vt/enatchee on the pic- Kline; and L. · Kusel. When it was sug• . turesque banks of the majestic Columbia, con• gested that it might be found a difficult matter ducting busi-ness on a substantial basis." to exclude Chinese by "honorable, legal and It was not until the latter part of June that lawful means," it was omniously met by the the' postoffice was· removed. But not all the frank statement that if these failed another people moved from the old town into the new. mass-meeting could easily be assembled and the Some still lingered amid familiar scenes and committee authorized to adopt other methods. associations which had combined to form for May I, 1892, the Columbia Valley Bank them a home. The Great Northern Railway was thrown open for business. This was We• Company constructed a passenger and freight natchee's initial banking institution. Arthur depot on the new site, which was far superior Gunn was cashier. Sunday morning, May 8, to the old one in the matter of drainage facili• Rev. Thomas M. Gunn, D. D., superintendent ties, besides being more centrally located among of missions for the state of Washington of the the adjacent farming lands. Presbyterian Board of Home Missions, organ• Friday morning, May 27, I892, vVenatchee ized the First Presbyterian Church of Wenat• was visited by a fire which occasioned a loss of chee with the following named gentlemen as about $ro,ooo. It was only by great effort on officers: Elder, Arthur Gunn; trustees, S. T. the part of the citizens that the flames were Sterling, F. E, Madigan and George Cooper; confined to the livery stable of O'Connors & Clerk, S. T. Sterling. ' Company. Twenty-two horses perished in the In May, I892, the present townsite of vVe• building. natchee was thrown on the market. The We- At Graphic Hall, Wena.tchee, Sunday

.,

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHI,NGTON.

morning, July 31, an enthusiastic meeting was man, M. Callaghan, N. N. Brown, Henry C. held, the object of which was the organization Long, James Riley, F. E. Madigan, J. B. Jo• of a Presbyterian Sunday School. Mr. G. W. hanasen, H. R. Schildknecht, S. Palo, Eli Bartholomew was selected as chairman and the Lewis. question of organization as infonnally dis• This petition was granted by the commis• cussed. It was decided as a finality that the sioners of Kittitas county, and they named time was opportune for such a commendable Friday, December 23, as the date for a special enterprise, upon which the chairman declared election to vote on the propopsition. The very the election of officers in order. Mr. Arthur important question of incorporation was deter• Gunn was unanimously named as superintend• mined by the decisive vote of 107 "for, to 7 ent; G. W. Bartholomew, assistant; Mrs. against out of a total of 122 votes cast. The Groves, secretary; Miss Zimmerman, treasurer, Wenatchee Advance said: "The victory was a and Miss Carrie Sanders, organist. most signal one and is unimpeachable evi• For some time previous to August, 1892, dence that our people are now alert to their there had prevailed a sentiment in Wenatchee best interests and intend to work for the up• favorable to incorporation. In that month a building of the best tqown in Central Washing• petition was presented to the board of commis• ton. The day was stormy, and there being but sioners of Kittitas county asking that Wenat• one ticket in the field a comparatively light vote chee be incorporated in a town of the fourth was cast, but everything considered it is a most class. The signers of this petition were: creditable showing. The election was held un• W. H. Willis, Arthur Gunn, W. H. Mer• der the general election laws of the state, (Aus• riam, C. T. Howard, J. S. Gray, J. W. Arthur, tralian system), which accounts for the dis• R. J. Mackison, W. B. Ready, J. H. Temple• crepancy in the vote, the returns appearing on ton, W. H. Middleton, M. Mackison, Eugene their face that onlyI 14 ballots were dropped Enloe, J. R. Holcrift, George H. Allen, E. W. into the official box, whereas there were .122, Harlow, D. Bishop, C. Sundstedt, Gust Pear• eight votes being cast either . in blank, or in son,]. A Thompson, Kirk Whited, Eugene A such an incongruous manner of marking that Fisk, Conrad Platzoder, G. \lV. Bartholomew, the judges were unable to determine the inten I. W. Reeves, C. R. Weber, J. Doyle, J. Mc• tion of the electors. Following is the vote in Arthur, Fred W. Olds, C. H. Florida, Benie detail: For incorporation, 107; against incor• Carlos, C. L. O'Connell,. Paul Allen, John poration, 7; for Mayor, Posey Wilson, 95; for White, S. W. Cox, George L. Rice, M. B. Mer• councilmen, R. J. Mackison, roo; T. J. Groves, cer, James Stevens,]. W. Birchfield, J. A Ear• 93; W. A Sanders, 99; M. B. Mercer, 81; M. tin, J. B. Sessier, W. P. Taylor, P. A Wood Horan, 8o; scattering, 5; for treasurer, Arthur & Company, Posey S. vVilson, J. H. J:VIartin, S. Gunn, roo." W. Wright, George Gqilland, C. A Braun, Wednesday evening, January r8, 1893, the John Pike, T. F. Cra·wford, John O'Brien, council met for its initial session, and the wheels Eugene Walker, R. H. Hammond, J. Berg• of the new municipal government were put in man, S. W. Phillips, J. H. C. Scarlock, Oride motion. Cote, G. Roolicau, W. Y. Wolf, F. Lape, F. On the whole the year 1892 was a most Brockhoff, S. F. Peterson, W. A Sanders, W. eventful one for the city of Wenatchee. Its R. Prowell, S. T. Sterling, W. 'V'l. Booth, D. C. progress was marked and flattering. Among Griffin, J. F. Millet, G. W. Hoxsey, J. A. Man• the other enterprises of this progressive·year was ning, R. Bennett, James Reed, Nels Johnson, the organization of a board of trade. A meet• A.. Bedford, Richard O'Connell, E. B. Chap- ing of representative business men was held Sat-

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

urday evening, Septembr 17, r892, when the liveliest ever witnessed in Wenatchee's his• organization was completed with the following tory. Railroad building, of course, was re• members: M. Horan, Eugene Enloe, G. W. sponsible for a large share of this unusual en• Bartholomew, T. J. Groves, Charles Jasper, terprise and progression. Not only in business R. R. Morrison, W. R. Prowell, Thomas Mann, was the town wide awake, but it was so, also, W. H. Willis, Charles Metcalfe, Peter Garvey, in a social way. The usual crowd of "hob()es" H. W. Patterson, J. H. C. Scurlock, W. H. and "bad men," who invariably assemble at Bowen, William Kleinburg, J. A. Martin, W. points where railroad construction is progres• H. Merriam, W. P. Watson, Arthur Gunn, M. sing were present, and they· did all in their J. Carkeek, Frank Reeves and F. M. Scheble. power to make Wenatchee a "tough town." The officers chosen were: Arthur Gunn, presi• A perusal of the columns of the T¥ enMchee dent; Charles Metcalfe, vice-president; F. M. Advance during the greater part of this year Scheble, treasurer and W. J. Brown, secretary. cannot help but lead one to this conclusion. Monday, October 17, r892, was hailed by Depredations committed by the offscourings of the citizens of Wenatchee as a historic and red the earth ranged from petty thefts to murder letter day. With the going down of the sun the and riots. Not one or two crimes a week would young city had rail and telegraph communica• be heralded, but often ten or twelve. For some tion with the world around her. The commit• time no reputable citizen was safe in the town. tee whose duty it was to prepare for this in• The authorities were powerless to riel the place teresting event issued handbills calling upon of the hoboes, or to check their heinous deeds. the public-spirited citizens, at 2 :30 o'clock p. Thirteen dance halls in one block, numerous m., to give a royal welcome to the steel rails and saloons and other resorts flourished. It was steaming locomotive. At that hour the road only after the construction work on the rail• had reached a point about opposite the vVatson road was completed in the vicinity of VVenat• Hotel, and to the music of an excellent band the chee that this element left the town and drifted. assembled pe.ople watched the vvork of track on to new fields. building as it progressed toward Orondo ave• During the winter of r892-93 vVenatchee nue. Here a speakers' stand had been erected \vas visited by one case of small-pox.. The dis• and the audience was entertained by fitting and ease originated in the construction camps of eloquent remarks by Judge Carroll B. Graves, of the railroad then building into· town. For a Ellensburg, Frank Reeves and L. H. Bowman. time it was confined to this camp, but later These speakers were introduced by w: R. reached the town, a portion of which was Webber, as master of ceremonies. At the con• placed under quarantine. Men, and in many clusion of the speaking three times three cheers cases, women, forsook the town with an alac• were given for the Great Northern Railway rity born of intensified earnestness, and in num• and its energetic projector, President James J. bers that· were really. alarming. Business in• Hill. So soon as the train had passed Orondo terests suffered greatly from the "scare," but Crossing the silver spike was driven. This. high quickly recovered when it was found that there honor was conferred upon Samuel and philip were to be no other cases. Twenty-one men Miller, two of the oldest inhabitants of Wenat• were in strict quarantine. chee Valley, while the privilege of setting the Tuesday, December 5, r893, there was held spike in its place fell to that worthy citizen, in Wenatchee. a municipal election, at which the W. A. Sanders. With t_his farewell ceremony following officers were elected : Councilmen• the exercises were brought to a close. F. M. Scheble, T. J. Groves; treasurer, W. H. Beyond a doubt the year r892 was the ·Willis; clerk, W. R. Prowell; marshal, J. W.

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

Ferguson; city attorney, Thomas Mullen; and stopped near the bank to be met by citizens health officer, Dr. E. W. Stevens. . with buckets. A pile of lumber and wood near The "hard times" of 1893 spent consider• the bank building caught fire, and but for the able of its force on the business of Wenatchee well-directed energies of several cool-headed as well as in all other towns in the country. citizens the flames would have run up the wall The people, also, missed -the monthly pay-rolls under the water gutters, and also, caught in the which the Great Northern Railway Company windows, destroying that magnificent brick had furnished the previous year during the era building. Several men were stationed on the of construction work in this immediate vicinity. roof and others at windows, throwing water While banks all over the country were closing upon the walls and window casings. their doors the Columbia Valley Bank with• The millinery store of Mrs. Rose Reeves sood the financial storm. It was the only one was saved by tearing down the outbuildings within a large territory in Central Washing• back of the bank,"which prevented the flames ton that weathered there "hard times." from spreading farther in that direction. At Early Saturday morning, 12:30, September one time the wind hauled to the east and it re• 2, 1893, the sound of pistol shots and the cry quired prompt and heroic work to save the of "fire!" aroused the citizens of Wenatchee buildings on the opposite side of the street. The from slumber. The entire available popula• fire was now confined to the west side of Wenat• tion soon turned out and began the work of chee avenue, and by two o'clock, A.M., the en• fighting the flames in a systematic and effectual tire wooden row was in smoking ruins. Fol• manner that would do credit to experienced lowing are the losses : firemen. In the rear of Sunstedt & Pearson's F. B. Loney, $6oo; Sunstedt & Pearson, building the fire originated, the structure hav• $r,ooo; Lee & Mann, $r,2oo; M. Callaghan, ing been recently vacated by the Minnesota $2,500; Edward Benson, $400; W. H. Alex• Mercantile Company. But the direct cause of ander, $400; R. V. Wells, $25. All of these the fire was not known. It was discovered by were total losses, there being no insurance. The two 'or three parties at its first inception. The Columbia Valley Bank was damaged to the wind was in the east, and within a remarkably amount of $r 50, fully covered by insurance. short time ·several shacks and small buildings January 27, 1894, the following various in the rear of F. B. Loney's real estate office branches of business were represented in We• and the Mann building were ablaze, including natchee; one bank, two general merchandise the small frame house occupied by John Doyle. stores, one grocery store, one paint and wall The vV enatchee Advance says: paper store, two . confectioneries, three hotels, "By this time the whole row of buildings one restaurant, one bakery, two butcher shops, facing vVenatchee avenue were blazing and be• one livery stable, one lumber yard, one tin yond help. All efforts were then directed to shop, one lime, cement and bricl{ yard, two adjacent buildings. The Seattle Beer Hall was blacksmith shops, four saloons, one millinery saved only by cool, prompt and effective labor. establishment, one newspaper and one whole• Blankets were spread over the wood-shed in the sale liquor house. rear of the building and kept wet until water In the fall of r894 there was completed a that was standing in barrels was exhausted, and handsome brick school house, erected at a cost then shouts of "water!" went up from a hun• of $ro,ooo. During the following few years dred throats. Soon, and with commendable there ws very little history making in Wenat• promptness the water wagons of David Mor:. chee. The young city held its own, taking no gan and W. A. Sanders came trundling along, backward step, although but little of importance

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

occurred. But in 1898-99 the revival of pros• rear-end collision. The stationary train had perity and "good times" took place, here as been stopped by a landslide and huge rock on elsewhere, and Wenatchee began to assume an the track. Lee Ferryman, a brakeman, was important part in the general progression of killed, being scalded to death. the state. A remarkable growth was enjoyed by We• January 22, 1898, the initial movement was natchee during the year 1902. In a special edi• made to ard the establishment of a public lib• tion of the Wenatchee Advama) issued January rary: and reading room. The ladies of theW. 3, 1903, it is estimated that the total cost of resi• C. T. U. secured control of the Wenatchee Ad• dences and business houses erected in I 902 w.a& vance for the issue of January 22, and pub• $320,000. Some of the principal business lished the entire paper for that week. In this houses built that year, and their cost,· are as manner the sum of $8o was raised and before follows: the close of the year a library had been pro• Wenatchee Hardware Company, brick, one cured in addition to a first-class reading room. story and basement, 50xioo, $5,500; Scheble September 2, 1898, the Vvenatchee Fire Depq.rt• & Lane, two story brick, 48x8o, $6,500; ment was organized. Its original membership Orondo Shipping Company, frame mill, ware comprised seventeen active citizens. The first house and machinery, $22,000; Seattle Brewing1 officers were: L. 0. Hall, chief; George J. & Malting Company, cold storage, $4,500; 0. , first assistant chief; Charles Kinney, B. Fuller, one-story brick, 38xroo, $5,500; D. second assistant chief; Dr. Gilchrist, drill• A. Beal, two-story bricl , 25x120, $4,6oo; master; William M. Cumins, secretary; Percy John Durieux, two-story brick, 25x8o, $5,6oo; Scheble, treasurer. The United States govern• L. 0. Bardin, two-story brick, 50x7 5, $9,500; ment census of 1900 gave \iVenatchee a popu• Mrs. Parsons, Columbia hotel, $2,500; J. M. lation of four hundred and fifty-one. Duffy, Olympia building, $2,200; 'vV. M. Cross,. The steamer vVenatchee, better known as Olympia cafe, $8oo; Captain Alexander Griggs, the "Irish World," was destroyed by fire at two frame buildings, $r,5oo; Morse & Vvheeler, her dock early Saturday morning, July I 3, feed store and barn, $r,5oo; Eagle Livery, ad-. 1901. The origin of this disaster remains un• clition to barn, $850; S. D. Cox, store building,. known. The steamer was built in 1899 and $850; J. W. Allison, "Owl Club," $r,5oo; Fritz was o-wned by Baily & O'Connor. The insur• & Padoshek, frame addition, $6oo; total, ance of $3,500 only partially covered the loss. $75,000. Between Tuesday, September 3, and Fri• During this progressive year three new day, September 6, 1901, the first county fair steamers were built in the VI/e,natchee ship-< was held in the city of \11[enatchee, and in every yard; the North Star, at a cost of $)7,ooo; the particular it was an unqualified success. Gerome, $9,000, and the Chelan, $r s,ooo, mak• October ro of this year five miles west of ing a total outlay of $3 r ,ooo in shipbuilding for Vvenatchee, there occurred a frightful wreck the year. Fifty thousand dollars would be a petween two freight trains, both .running extra low estimate for improvements in the valley in on the Great Northern railway. It resulted in the immediate vicinity of Wenatchee. the death of Samuel Stallcup, a fireman, and' The fruit shipments by express from H. H. Hixson, a brakeman, and serious injury Wenatchee, for the year ending November 31,

to E. P. Carson, brakeman, Fielding1 1902, were as follows: Total number of boxes, ngineer, and James Barr, engineer. Near the I62,743; total weight, 4,6I5,467 pounds, Ol' same place on the Great Northern occurred• j an amount equal to I 32 carloads·. The in..; another wreck, March 7, 1902, caused by a crease over the shipm

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

about 85 per cent. The shipments by freight city of the third class, having ISO in excess of for the same period aggregated ros,ooo boxes; the required number of inhabitants, 1,500. The running the total up to 267,743 boxes, or 225- year 1903 witnessed a remarkable growth of car-loads. Much of this fruit was from or--. population as well as many substantial im• chards only in partial bearing. provements. During this year over one hun• The steady increase in bank business and ,dred and twenty buildings were erected within balances redounded to the acknowledged pros- the city limits, the total cost of which amounted' perity of Wenatchee. In January, 1903, Guy to fully $2oo,ooo. Some of the principal items C. Browne, cashier of the Columbia Valley of this amount were the Wenatchee Milling Bank, said : "The growth of our business has Company's grist mill and warehouse, $2o,ooo; been very rapid. The volume of busines_s al-: Wenatchee Box Factory, building and ware• most doubled in 1902. More people are begin_, house, $6,ooo; high school building, $8,ooo; ning to see the aQ_vantage of sending money by Baptist church building, $3,300; Electric Light bank draft, and our draft business during 1902 and Power Company's buildings and ma• increased roo per cent. Bank deposits to a chinery, $r8,ooo; Griggs block, under construc• large extent reflect the prosperity of a com• tion, $13,000; Olympia Cold Storage and We• munity. Our increase in deposits we think very natchee Bottling works, building, $9,000; and flattering to both \1V enatchee and the Columbia I 5,400 lineal feet (nearly three miles) of side• Valley bank. Take our deposits on December walk, $7,700. 30, a time when they are never as high as at Outside of the town proper and within a other periods in the-year, for the last five years, radius of two miles of Vvenatchee, over fifty and the increase is wonderful. They are as fol• residences, in addition to barns, were erected at lows: a total cost of not less than $75,000. The gt'eat Vvenatchee (High Line) canal was, also, com• December 30, 1898 ..... $33,750.45 pleted during this year at a cost of $2 so,ooo. December 30, r899 ..... 41,862.54 The Home Water Company expended about December 30, 1900 ...... 59,518.93 $I s,ooo on the water proposition, and the December 30, 1901 ...... !04,710-48 expenditure of the Fanners' Telephone Com• December 30, 1902 ...... 167,484:89 pany will amount to at least $ro,ooo. These improvements, added to those vvithin the city The Wenatchee Commercial Club, one of limits will bring the total to fully half a million the most prosperous business organizations in dollars for the town of Wenatchee and its the northwest, was organized Monday evening, I immediate vicinity. The Wenatchee Advance April 20, 1903. The original officers were as said, early in January, 1904: follows: John A. Gellatly, president; A. Z. "Among the many enterprises of \V enatchee vVells, vice-president; Arthur Gunn, treasurer; in which large capital is invested the Columbia H. C. Littlefield, secretary; trustees, C. E. & Okanogan Steamboat Line stands prominent. Stohl, N. N. Brown, C. A. Harlin, L. V. Wells, "There are seven boats in its fleet of steam• and Ira D. Edwards. ers plying the Columbia river north to Brew• November 25, 1903, the population of ster, Bridgeport and Riverside on the Okano• Wenatchee had. increased to 1,690. Thursday, gan river. The steamers, the date of their November I9, a special census was completed building and the cost of their construction by W. A. Sanders. Wenatchee then became a follows:

HISTORY OF NORTH WASBINGTON.

Name. Built. Cost half of Douglas county. This is not due to W. H. Pringle ..... 19o'r $35,000 railroad facilities, but to its natural position, Selkirk ...... r899 I5,000 and Wenatchee is by nature destined for ail Chelan ...... 1900 r8,ooo time to be the distributing point of this terri• Alexander Griggs ... r 903 IO,OOO tory. It is a mercantile, as well as a fruit North Star ...... 1902 9,000 center. Conveniently situated on the Columbia, Gerome ...... 1902 6,ooo navigable for I70 miles to the northward, all Echo ...... 1897 r,5oo the up-river settlements, including much of the Big Bend wheat belt, some thirty small towns Total ...... $94,500 in all, are also tributary to Wenatchee. "Another factor which has contributed to "To the above must be added the cost of the town's growth in the past, and which must dockage, wharf-boats, etc., in Wenatchee and undoubtedly do so in the future, is its close at up-river points, and a reasonable estimate identification with the interests of the Gre;,tt places such cost at $r3,ooo. Thus we have a Northern Railway Company." total investment of $ro7,506. As stated in the· The original townsite of Wenatchee was Advance a few weeks back, the three largest platted August 28, r888, by Don Carlos Cor• boats, W. H. Pringle, Chelan and Selkirk, are bett. The next year the following additions to be elaborately fitted up for the season of to the old town were platted: Haley's, Bur• 1904, and the work connected with these pro• rell's, Murray & Company's and Haley's sec• posed improvements will involve the expendi• ond addition. In 1890 Prowell's addition was ture of several thousand dollars. * * * The platted; in r89r Stahl & Tidmarsh's First, season just closed has witnessed a large volume .Bolenbaugh's First and Haley's Third were of up-river steamer business, and there is an added, and in 1892 Stevens' First. These ad• absoute certainty that during the year 1904 ditions were all to the old town. business will be largely increased." The Great Northern plat of vVenatchee was Concerning the eligible location of We• filed May 4, 1892, by the Wenatchee Develop• natchee the Seattle COJmJwnwealth in its issue ment Company, and an amended plat was filed of November 8, 1902, said: by them August 5, 1892. The same year the "In addition to being the center of Wash• First addition, Engineers', was platted. In 1893 ington's fairest and richest valley, yet in its came the Central addition; in 1899 Suburban infancy, the town of Wenatchee has been bene• Home, Second Suburban Home and Manufac• fited ever since its inception by its advantageous turers' addition; inI900 Warehouse addition situation. Its advantages are many and have and Smith Park; in 1901 Garden Home addi• been materially heightened and multiplied since tion md Nob Hill; in 1902 Home Lands, the construction through the valley of the Great Fairview and Keefer's additi01i., and in 1903 Northern Railway, and these advantages must Grand View addition. have the effect in the near future of placing vVe• natchee in the forefront of the state's inland CHELAN. cities. Primarily must be taken into considera• tion its geographical position, and in this re• As a townsite Chelan came into existence spect the town is superior to any center in the under a serious handicap. Previous to r886 state of vVashington. all the tract of land north of the Ch lan, to the "Tributary to it is the entire territory of Methow river, had been an Indian reservation, Chelan and Okanogan counties, and the eastern anq was open to "homestead entry only," by

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON. 721

proclamation of President Cleveland, after per• mous consent, and secured the passage of a bill mitting such Indians as were parties to certain granting a patent for a quarter section of treaties, and who so desired, to take allotments. Okanogan county upon which the town of It was then in Okanogan coUtity. Probate Chelan is situated. The patent goes to the Judge Ballard, assisted by United States Sur• probate judge for the use and benefit of the in• veyor Henry Carr, in July, r889, laid out the habitants of the town under the townsite laws. government townsite of Chelan, the plat of The townsite was taken under the pre-emption which· was filed in the land office at Yakima. laws; later it was discovered that in the segre• But for some reason which has never been satis• gation of Okanogan county. from the Colville factorily explained this plat was received and Indian reservation it had been provided that filed by the register of the land office as a pre• the lands could be acquired only under the emption, despite the fact that nothing but a homestead laws. As a large number of people homestead could be taken upon the newly had taken and improved lots on the townsite opened tract. this ·worked a great hardship. Appeal was Thus, at its inception, and after some 300 ri1ade to representative Wilson, who promptly or 400 shacks had been erected by those claim• introduced the measure." ing lots, it was discovered that no title could Having pa,ssed both houses this bill was ap• be obtained. All this confusion operated as a proved March 24. Later C. H. Ballard, trus• temporary back-set. However, the defect was tee of the Chelan townsite, came to Chelan and finally and completely remedied by former attended to the business of giving patents to United States Senator (then Congressman) residents. Today the title is as good as the John L. Wilson, who secured the passage by United States government catJ. make it, and congress of a bill granting valid title to these since that period the town has grown steadily early settlers in the town of Chelan. This was in and satisfactorily. 1892, and the bill forever settled the question In the spring of r888 the white settlers of the titles of the Chelan townsite. Following along the shore of Lake Chelan comprised W. is the report of the house committee on public L. Sanders, Henry Dumke, I. A. Navarre and lands on the bill to grant certain land to the family, Frank Mowrey, R. H. Lord, Augustus town of Chelan, in Okanogan county, Wash• W. Cooper, William Feickert, L. H. and Albert ington: Spader and J. W. Horton. In r887 Judge I. A. Navarre, W. L. Sanders and Henry Dumke The land in question was required for townsite pur• settled on the lake and they were the original poses under the iaws of the United States, and as such was located by C. H. Ballard, probate judge, in trust pioneers of the country. The first white child and for the use and benefit of the town of Chelan. Pend• born on the lake shore was little Joe, the son of ing this a treaty was made releasing the Indian title, as Judge Navarre. Among the first settlers north the legislation concerning that precluded location of of the Chelan river were Messrs. L. H. Woodin land embraced in the treaty under all but the homestead laws. Inasmuch as a townsite cannot be located under and Julius A. Larrabee, with their families, the homestead law and homestead cannot be located on lal,ld latter from Ripon, Wisconsin. Each of these selected as a townsite, no title can be given to lands men took a tract of land east of the new town• without an enabling act of congress. The committee finds no adverse claims, and therefore report the bill to site. Thomas R. Gibson erected the first resi• the house with the recommendation that it pass. dence house within the limits of the town of

Chelan, but this was almost immediately fol• A special from Washington, D. C., dated lowed by residences built by W. F. Allinder and February 29, 1892, said: Reuben Underwood. A store conducted by C. "Representative ·wilson today asked unani- E. Whaley inI 890 was the origina1 business 46

722 HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

enterprise in Chelan. Mr. Whaley first visited Campbell and 83 others, praying for the incor• the place early in 1890, coming across the Big poration of Chelan, was presented to the com• Bend country afoot, from vVaterville. Shortly missioners of Okanogan county. The com• afterward he opened up business with a small missioners' report denying the petition is as :stock of goods. Chelan secured a postoffice follows: in the spring of 1890, and Mr. Brinton Love• "In this matter it appearing to the county lace was apointed postmaster. He was suc• commissioners that the said petition has not ceeded by H. A. Graham, and he, in turn, by been signed by sixty qualified electors of the C. E. v\Thaley. The present postmaster is ]. A. county, residents within the limits of such pro• -Larrabee. posed corporation, as is required by law, it is Among the sturdy, enterprising pioneers of ordered that said petition be rejected and re• 'Chelan -vvho have figured prominently in its turned." stirring and eventful history are L. H. Woodin, In the fall of 1893 Chelan's. financial insti• Julius A. Larrabee, C. E. Whaley, Thomas R. tution, the First Chelan Bank, was established Gibson, vV. F. Allinder, Reuben Underwood, by Messrs. Converse & Baker, two gentlemen Brinton· Lovelace, H. A. Graham, A. F. Nich• from Blue Earth, Minnesota. In July,· 1893, .ols, Dr. ]. L. Jacobs, D. A. Vroman, the other business enterprises of Chelan had in• & Murdock, A. L. Johnson, Mr. Converse, creased to five general stores, a bakery, black• Joshua A. Baker, C. C. Campbell, Dewitt C. smith shop, printing office, the Chelan Leader, Britt, J. D. Berrier, Leslie Barden, Dr. Albert a livery stable, a market and a saloon. S. Hayley, and Daniel ]. Switzer. As with so many other towns favorably lo• In May, 1890, there were three mndred cated Chelan has had the county seat bee in her buildings on the townsite of Chelan, many of bonnet. In the summer and fall of 1894 Che• them having· been erected for the purpose of lan was a candidate for the capital of Okano• holding lots. At that period County Co1;11mis• gan county. A petition signed by 705 quali• sioner Charles Johnson was president of the fied voters of that county was presented to the Chelan board of trade, an organization that has commissioners asking that a special election be accomplished much in the way of advertising called for the purpose of voting on the proposi- , the resources of the district and attracting the tion to remove the county seat from Conconully attention of home seekers and investors. There to Chelan. were in Chelan at this time three general mer• Judges W. A. Reneau, of Waterville, C. chandise stores, one hardware store, one drug C. Campbell and Deputy Sheriff Farley, of store, two saloons, and a blacksmith shop. Chelan, appeared before the regular October November 19, 1891, the Chei'aJt Leader said: meeting of the board at Conconully, and pre• "Over two years ago the pres,ent site of the sented the petition. Arguments were made in town was platted and it has had a steady favor of granting the same by Judge Reneau, growth ever since. A new town only a mile up 'and against it by one, Hankey, who had been the south shore has been laid out within a year employed as county attorney. The board de• and named Lake Park, where the steamers land, cided to call the election, but later reconsidered and it is a beautiful situation. The two places this action and issued an order against granti?g together have five stores, three hotels, one saw• the petition. mill, one market, one or two real estate offices, In May, 1898, the question of county seat, a good livery stable, two church orga zations removal was again sprung. On the. 28th in• and a live Sunday School." stant a meeting was held at Exhibition Ball, In January, 1893, a petition signed by C. C. Chelan, over which presided Judge C. C. Camp

· HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

belL Mr. Ellery R Fosdick served as secre• come to naught. The petition was subsequently tary. Chairman Campbell stated that the ob• signed by 529 voters. If the reader wil turn to ject of the meeting was to take initiatory steps the "First Exploration and Early History of looking to the removal of the county seat from Okanogan County," in Part Four of this work, its present location to thChelan Valley; that he will see that, while the county commissioners the law required a petition signed by at least · granted this petitio 1, and an election was held, one-third of the voters at the last election, ask• the question of a division of the county had be n ing that the question of removal be submitted injected into the discussion, and this fact mili• to the people at the next succeeding general tated against the new county seat "boomers." election, stating definitely the proposed new lo• The question of removal was defeated by a cation and other material facts, and presented vote of 550 against, to 253 for removal. to the county commissioners at their first regu• Chelan decided to incorporate in May, 1902, lar meeting. Judge Campbell also read the law, At an election the citizens voted almost to a showing conclusively that with the present man in favor of the proposition, there being population, county division, which some pre• only seven votes against it. Much thought was ferred, was out of the question and would be bestowed upon the question and it was dis• for an indefinite time to come. Calling for a cussed from various view points. The new city general expression from the assembly a general council comprised the following members : discussion followed participated in by Messrs. Boyd, H. B. Higgins, A. H. Murdock, C. Robinson, Joseph Darnell, C. C. Campbell, G. L. Richardson, and C. E. Whaley. Amos C. E. Whaley, DeWitt C. Britt, Charles Colver, Edmunds was elected mayor, and J. A. Van Bernard Devin, Benjamin F. Smith, J. F. Will• Slyke, treasurer. The total number of votes iams, Fred Pflceging, H. R Kingman, A. H. cast was sixty-three. Murdock, P. H. Farley, H. A. Graham; J. F. Amos Edmunds, the first mayor of Chelan, Baker, James Pumpelly, F. W. Easley, Ellery formerly resided at La Harpe, Illinois, where R Fosdick, Augustus \lV. Cooper, R H. Lord, he had large property interests. Until coming William M. Emerson, T. A. \lVright and others. to Chelan he had resided on a farm all his life, Messrs. Cooper, Lord and Emerson volun• and was for many years one of the largest teered their services in circulating the petition breeders of blooded cattle in the United States. free of charge, and it was voted unanimously In 1900 he came west on a visit to his brother• to undertake the removal of the county seat in-law, C. C. Campbell, of Chelan, by whom to the Chelan Valley. The chair appointed A he was induced to build the Hotel Chelan. H. Murdock, Ellery R. Fosdick and H. R. Elmer Boyd, the youngest member of the coun• Kingman a committee to draft a subscription cil, completed a course in mining and assaying paper for the purpose of raising funds for im• at the state agricultural college, at Pullman, mediate expenses. The chairman also ·stated \;Vashington, and at the time of his election tCY that Judge V\Tilliam Henry had offered to do- the city council was engaged in the assaying . nate a site for court house purposes, and that business, He is a son of ex-county commis Mr. M. M. Kingman had offered two acres in sioner Boyd. his residence tract on the south side of the Che• H. B. Higg·ins was a contractor and builder, lan river. The offer of Mr. Kingman was ac- having a business block on Jackson avenue in . cepted. Everyone being invited to subscribe to association with his brother. A. H. Murdock the expense- fund a handsome sum was collected had been engaged in the hardware business in ancl the meeting adjourned. Chelan for ten years, and aside from his town And yet this last attempt was destined to property was heavily interested in valuable

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

mining property in the Chelan district. G. L. new church, an annex to another, etc. A retaining dam has been built in the Chelan river to improve l ke navi• Richardson was the senior member of the gation and to regulate that great and important reser• Richardson Drug Company, hich had been in voir. Another bridge has been erected across that business in Chelan for about a year. C. E. stream. The Chelan Water Power Company has in• Whaley was in the general mercantile business stalled and put in operation an electric lighting plant for Lakeside and Chelan that any place might be proud of; in Chelan for about twelve ;years, during five has excavated and built a brick and cement reservoir years of which time he was postmaster. His and has laid over five miles of water mains, for a water was the first store in Chelan. J. A. Van Slyke, system for the comrtmnity that would be hard to equal anywhere in eastetn Washington outside of Spokane, the treasurer-elect, was a son-in-law of J. F. and has installed a pumping plant at their power works, Baker, president of the First Chelan Bank. expecting to fill the reservoir, flood their mains and begin In August, 1903, twenty-four of Chelan's active business with the opening day of the new year. most enterprising business men assembled at Although several hew mercantile firms have come in, business has been more than usually prosperous ; an un• the Chelan Hotel, on the 18th instant, for the usually large holiday trade is reported, and there have purpose of organizing a Commercial Club. On been no failures in business. t.he 31st the organization was perfected and The Auditorium Association has been reorganized and put on a business basis, and has begun in earnest named the Chelan Commercial Club, with the to lift its indebtedness incurred in building that elegant following officers: M. M. Foote, president; J. structure, and to finish it in a comfortable and credit• H. Holden, vice-president;· Frederick H. Fu• able style. There has been comparatively little sickness rey, secretary; Barnett Stillwell, treasurer; M. during the year in proportion to the population, which latter has been greatly augmented by a good, well-to-do M. , Amos Edmunds, Dr. A. I. Mitchell, class of people, and we have been remarkably free from J. A. Van Slyke and E. Weber, board of direc• contagious diseases. The tourist travel to the lake has tors. The charter meri1bers of this organiza• far exceeded that of any previous year, taxing to their upmost capacity. all the hotels and resorts. The public tion were A. P. Kelso, Emil Weber, Rush J. park has been plowed and fenced and will be planted to White, W. D. Richards, Amos Edmunds, J. A. trees next spring. A fine, costly, well-equipped sanita• Van Slyke, Barnett Stillwell, W. H. Cum• rium is o.ne of the acquisitions of the year. Taken alto• gether the Lake Chelan community has made a decided ming, E. E. Weber, J. H. Holden, M. E. Lies, advance over any previous year in its history. M. Garton, Charles A. Shindler, Frederick Pflceging, F. H. Furey, Judge, C. C. Camp• The Congregational Church was the first bell, M. M. Foote, John Isenhart, A. I. Mit• one to occupy the field in Chelan. It was estab• chell, 0. W. Brownfield, C. S. Ridout, George lished in r8go, but was never very strong, sus• M. Jacobs, Thomas R. Gibson, Captain John pending services a few years later. Shortly B. Lucas. after the establishment of the Congregational The condition of Chelan January r, 1904, Church the Methodists also organized, and this is thus described by the Leader of that date: proved an important moral and religious force in the community. In November, r8g6, the The year just closed has been one of notable pros• Methodists began the erection of a house of perity for Lake Chelan. During the year many thous• ands of dollars have been expended developing the worship, 28x40 feet, with a seating capacity mines, a number of which are practically ready to mine of 250. In August, 1897, it was completed and ship ore so soon as a smelter is built to handle and occupied. Its total cost, including furni• them. The Railroad Creek, twelve-mile, mining, narrow gauge railway has been made very nearly ready for the ture, was $1,425. In 1897 the Episcopal rails, and the Holden mine alone has contracted to de• Church was organized, the result of ministra• liver to a smelter syndicate soo,ooo tons of copper and tions at various times by Bishop L. H. Wells, gold-bearing ore. of Spokane, ably supplemented by the labors of Large building operations have been carried on at the foot of the lake, including handsome brick blocks, Rev. B. C. Roberts. St. Andre\vs Episcopal frame business houses, brick and frame residences, one Church is one of the notable sights of Chelan,

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

being built entirely of logs. The interior is pastorate the church more than doubled in unique, finished in the rough, giving the whole membership, and was able to build the beauti• a rustic appearance that is both pleasing and ful little chapel it now occupies, and with no impresesive. It is seated with long benches, debt for future pastors to meet. Rev. R. D. with backs, and the pulpit chairs are made of Osterhout next became pastor, remaining with pole wood, while the pulpit stands are con• the church for about eight months, when he structed of large logs, cut about four feet in was removed to other fields. Although but a length, and standing on end. A pole fence also short time in charge of the church Mr. Oster• surrounds the church. The plans. were ordered hout did a noble work. Rev. J. T. Hoyle was by Bishop L. H. Wells, and K. K. Cutter, of the succeeding pastor and during his pastorate Spokane, was the architect of this place of of eighteen months the church continueO. to do worship which was built during. the fall and good work wherever opportunity offered. winter of 1898. Rev. Henry J. Gurr is pastor. An1ong the pioneer members of this church may The first Episcopallan church service was held be mentioned Spencer Boyd and wife, D. J. June 28, 1891, in the old school house, Chelan, Switzer and wife, H. A. Graham and wife, W. by Rev. Charles B. Crawford. He came to S. McPherron and wife, J. F. Baker and wife, Chelan from All Saints' Cathedral, Spokane. Mrs. Joseph Darnell and Mrs. 'Rosa Jacobs. At this first service he baptized Archie Chelan The first sermon preached in Chelan by a Meth• Feichert and Elmer Glenwood Porter. From odist minister was delivered by Elder \iVhite, the fall of 1896 until the spring of 1898 Rev. recently located at Waterville. Brian C. Roberts was minister in charge. He An ideal townsite has Chelan, and it is sys• came over from Vvaterville to care for the work tematically laid out on a plateau elevated some here and at Chelan Falls. The first officers four hundred feet above the Columbia river, were A. H. Murdock, warden; Mrs. C. E. and located on the north side of the Chelan -Whaley, secretary; and Mrs. S. P. Richard• river, where it flows from the lake. The fol• son, treasurer. Through the faithful services lowing additions have been made to the original and unflagging interest of Mrs. C. E. 'Whaley, townsite of Chelan: South Chelan, July r, the Sunday school was well started. Mrs. I. A. r892, by Benjamin F. Smith; Kingman's First Navarre was church organist. Under the lead addition to Chelan, June 25, r898; Lake View ·of Mr. A. H. Murdock, the men co-operated in addition, April I, r89r, by Lewis H. Woodin; ·getting out logs and laying the stone founda• Kingman's Second addition, April 22, 1901; tion for the present church. Rev. Mr. Roberts Foote & Starr's addition, October 3, 1901; was called to be canon at the Cathedral, in West Chelan, March 28, 1902, by M. M. King• Spokane, and rector of St. Stephen's school. man; Gibson's addition to Chelan, March 28, The Chelan Methodist Episcopal Church 1902, by Thomas R. Gibson.

was organized with twelve members in the sum• mer of 1891, and Rev. Hayworth was sent LAKESIDE. there as pastor in connection with several other appointments. Mr. Hayworth served the peo• Lakeside, a town of three hundred popula• ple for eighteen months. . Having no church tion, is situated on the south shore of Lake building services were held in the school house. Chelan, about a mile above Chelan river, the The succeeding pastor was Rev. M. R. Brown, lake's outlet. Lakeside and Chelan are, prac• and during his ministrations the organization tically, one town. Although the business sec• became assu ed of permanency. Rev. B. E. tions of the two towns are fully a mile apart, Koontz followed- Mr. Brown, and during his the intervening space is occupied by residences

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

owned by citizens of the two villages, and it is and discontinued their business interests in highly probable that in the future these two Lake Park, as the town of Lakeside was then bustling municipalities will become one_.and recognized. that a city of considerable commercial import• In November or December, r888, the sec• ance. ond store was establislted in the young town by While Lakeside is the smaller of the two Tunis.Bardenburg. There were, at that time, towns at the foot of the lake, in some respects only about a dozen people residing in the com it has the advantage of its sister town. It is munity, but Mr. Hardenburg, recognizing the built, chiefly, along the water's edge, sheltered future possibilities of the place, did not hesi• from the cool blasts of winter and fanned by tate t engage in business. His store was con• lulling breezes during the heated term of sum• ducted in a modest log cabin and the business mer, making it a most desirable resident sec• proved a successful venture. Mr. Hardenburg tion. Another thing; its immediate contact sold his store to Louis F. Belmond and in 1891 with the lake commerce (deep water does not returned with his family to Illinois, but came extend to the town of Chelan), is .the cause of back a year or two later and re-established a it being a lively business point. grocery store. He continued in business alone The history of Lakeside begins with the until 1896, when he formed a partnership with year r888. In the early spring Captain Charles his brother, George W. Hardenburg, formerly Johnson, Benjamin F. Smith and Tunis Har• of Conconully. denburg, accompanied by their families, came The year r889 witnessed the arrival of to the new country and settled on the present other settlers and the community continued to site of Lakeside. The first building erected grow. During this year Joseph Darnell came was a little cabin which was put up in May, frrom . the little town of Almira, Lincoln r888, by Tunis Hardenburg. The original county, and engaged in the hotel business, and business enterprise was a sawmill which went has since remained here. June 12, 1891, the into commission in the fall of that year. This townsite of Lake Park was platted from the was built by L. H. Vifoodin, who arrived on the homesteads of Captain Charles Johnson and lake from Minneapolis in July. Procuring a Tunis Hardenburg, each gentleman furnishing skiff Mr. Woodin went to the head of Lake forty acres. Following the platting of the Chelan, examined the timber tributary, came townsite the place continued to grow, but it back, looked over the great water power was. not until two years later-in the fall of and agricultural lands, and decided to put in a 1893-that the citizens succeeded in getting a saw mill. He then went to Ellensburg, the postoffice located there. Tunis Hardenburg nearest railroad station at that period, ordered was the first postmaster and the town was a saw mill and returned home early in Sep• thereafter known as Lakeside. The change tember. The same fall the new mill was in op• in name was made necessary owing to the fact eration. The same autumn Mr. Woodin and that there was another postoffice in the state his partner, A. F. Nichols, under the firm name called Lake Park. At Lakeside are located the of the Chelan Lumber Company, built an un• docks for the steamers that navigate Lake Che• pretentious hotel and store building and were lan, and a history of the steamers which have the pioneer merchants of the town. The fol• navigated the lake may not be out of place lowing spring Mr. Larrabee and family came here. The first steamer to navigate·these mag• to the new town and assumed charge of the nificent waters was the Belle of Chelan, built in hotel, but shortly afterward Messrs. \iVoodin the winter of 1888-9, by Goggins & Follett. For & Nichols moved to the Chelan side of the river two years the Belle was the only boat on '

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

the lake. R. ]. Watkins was chief engineer and perhaps seconds-'--until the steamer would fill Charles Trow captain. The next boat to ply and go to the bottom and there were no small the waters of Chelan was the Omaha, which boats or life preservers on board. Captain was put into commission by Thomas R. Gib• Burch had been hemmed in by falling wood son. Mr. Gibson arrived at the lake in April, and precious moments were consumed while 889. He returned to Fremont, Nebraska, brave men effected his release. Then Super• for a load of his goods, and brought back with intendent Trow, with rare presence of mind,. him, for the Omaha company, the staunch little managed to regain the pilot house and turned steamer Omaha, which had been built in Wau• the steamer's head toward the south shore, kegan, Illinois, for Lake Chelan. Mr. Gibson which was barely gained when the boat sunk brought this boat across the mountains from in sixteen feet· of water. The crew did not Ellensburg to Wenatchee, and thence by wagon have time to rescue even the mail sack, their to the lake. This was quite an undertaking, food or bedding, and they were obliged to pass the hull being of oak, and the boat measuring the night on the rocks without shelter. The over all 34x8;/z feet. The O·mdha was not upper works of the steamer went by the board launched until the following spring, when at once, and floated away. Later the Dragon Howard A. Graham came out from Nebraska was signalled and the crew reached home. to take charge of her for the company.. In 1893 the largest boat at that date ever In 1891 Messrs. Gibson and Johnson put ever launched on the lake, the Stehekin, was into commission the launch Clipper) which had built by Captain Johnson, who a short time af• formerly been utilized as a ferry boat on the terward associated with him Captain Watkins. Columbia river. The Clipper continued to nav• The Stehekin was a very popular boat in its day igate the lake for one year. The next boats put and only recently went out of commission on on the lake were the Queen and Dragon. The account of old age. The next boat put on was year following her launching the Queen was the Swan. In 1900 the Lady of the Lake, the wrecked, the only boat that ever met this fate finest and largest steamer which has yet plied on Lake Chelan. The Queen was a mail the waters of Lake Chelan, was built. The fol• steamer and made two trips a week between lowing year the Flyer, another large boat, was Chelan and Stehekin. She had gone to the head put into commission. The last to be con• of the lake without unusual incidents, and was structed was the Checlwchko (the new arri• well down on her return trip. She had no pas• val) which made its maiden trip up the lake in sengers, ai1d her crew consisted of Superintend• 1903. ent C. T.Trow, of the Navigation Company, The fleet of boats now navigating the lake Captain Fred R. Burch, and Engineer R. J. is owned by the Lake Chelan Navigation Com• Watkins. Her freight was principally cord pany, of which Captain E. E. Shotwell is man• wood. Considerable wind was encountered, ager, and with which M. S. Berry and Benja• causing the boat to roll and pitch, and when min F. Smith are also connected. At present about four miles from Safety Harbor, Super• the fleet consists of the Lady of the Lake, the intendent Trow, who w.as at the wheel, felt the Flyer, the Swan, and the Chechahko. Besides boat suddenly lurch to one side. As she did not these, and owned by Captain A. J. Dexter, is immediately right herself he rushed down to the freighting catamaran, Dexter, and quite a the main deck to ascertain the cause. He found fleet of launches. that the cargo of cordwood had shifted and that At Lakeside are two school buildings, in the water was pouring over the side into the which are employed two teachers. One hun• hold. It was only a matter of a few minutes- dred scholars are enrolled. The town has an

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

auditorium affording a spacious and well fur• Brothers. Marshall & Armour also have a pri• nished town hall. There is one church society, vate warehouse in Chelan Falls. · The elevation the Congregationalist, which has a handsome above sea level of Chelan Falls is 700 feet. stone edifice, costing $2,500, for a place of The town came into existence in I89r. The place of worship. This was erected in 1903. site was homesteaded by Joseph Snow, for.,. Charles Johnson's additipn to Lake Park merly state senator from Douglas county, .at (Lakeside) was platted in June 12, r89r; a present surveyor of Spokane county. The town• 'second addition to Lakeside was platted by Mr. site was platted by Sarah J. Snow, Febru• Johnson May r, 1901. ary IO, r89r. L. McLean was the man who conceived the idea of building a future metrop• CHELAN FALLS. olis at this point, and it was through his efforts that the town was started. The immense water On the west bank of the Columbia, on the power provided by the Chelan river and the south side of the Chelan river, is located the prospect of an early completion of a railroad town of Chelan Falls. The river is the outlet to this point led Mr. McLean to believe that of Lake Chelan and Chelan Falls is about four one of the leading cities of eastern Washing• and one-half miles from the town of Chelan. ton could be located at this point. He secured It lies at the foot of one of the most valuable control of the townsite and formed a. company water powers in the United States, having a to handle the property and impart an impetus fall in three miles of 376 feet. It has an So• to the enterprise. Within a short time $4o,ooo barrel flour mill, built about four ) ears ago, or $5o,ooo worth of town property vvas dis• and owned by the Chelan Falls Milling & posed of. Mr. McLean and his associates did Power Company. The capable manager for not pocket this money, but expended the entire this company is 0. F. Dickson. Chelan Falls amount in improvements. Among other things has one general merchandise store, of which which he accomplished was the building of an vV. F. Cobb is proprietor and postmaster. The expensive wagon road from the town of Chelan. Chelan Falls Brewing Company, formerly Many buildings were erected by the company, Charles A. Schlindler & Company, has a ca• and preparations were made for utilizing the pacious brewing plant, located here. The water power for manufactories. The original town has a fine townsite and adjoining it are business enterprise in the new town was a 500 acres that can be irrigated for not over newspaper. This was installed by DeWitt C. $8,ooo; the Chelan Falls Cable Ferry is the Britt, in the summer of I89r, under a contract , main highway between the Big Bend wheat with the McLean company to conduct it a year. fields and the Lake Chelan section. It is under The newspaper was immediately followed by the management of George Bedtelyon. All a general merchandise store, by the Chelan Columbia river steamers land here. At Dick• Falls Mercantile Company, of which J. B. Fos• son's Landing, just across the Columbia, are dick, L. McLean and others were the mem• :five large wheat warehouses that handled about bers. Another store \;VaS soon established by 350,000 bushels of wheat during I903. They Mr. Davis, formerly of Coulee City, and for a are the Columbia Grain Company, A. H. Mc• time affairs were quite lively in the new town. Arthur in charge; the Seattle Grain Company, Owing to the 'scarcity of lumber and the J. B. Fosdick, manager; Orondo Shipping poor condition of the roads Chelan Falls was Company, F. 0. Renn, manager; Chelan Falls somewhat retarded in the early sum!ller of I M. & P. Company, F. 0. Renn, buyer, and 89I so far concerns buildings. The Leader Fletcher's Warehouse, managed by Fletcher said:

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

For various pressing reasons, among them being a reach the hotel. scarcity of lumber, a lack of good roads and a way to cross the river, Chelan Falls. has been retarded some• what in its progress and development during the fore• part of the summer, but now that the barriers mentioned and others have been removed it is surprising to note the rapidity with which the town is striding toward her rightful position as the metropolis of central Washing• ton. Already she has a number of residences, the best newspaper in the Columbia Valley, between Portland and the British line, and the finest hotel between Spo• kane and Seattle, two and one-half stories high, 4IX44 feet besides a large kitchen addition and a bar annex now rapidly approaching completion. * * * One year ago last May (r8go) a peach orchard was set out where the prosperous town of Chelan Falls is now located, and many of the trees have attained a growth of four or five feet in height, with profuse, spreading branches, and all without irrigation. It see!I)S too bad that they should be trampled down and destroyed, but the time has come when this ground has become too valuable for peach orchard purposes, and is in demand for hotel sites, business houses, residences and ma;mfactories, and the orchard must go.

The building of a city at this point did not mate>ialize, however. The railroad did not come and "the enterprises which were to be es• tablished by the power from the Chelan river failed on account of a lack of financial support and other reasons. Mr. Britt removed his pa• per to Chelan in the summer of 1892, Mr. Mc• Lean removed from town about the same period and the "boom" was off. ·while Chelan Falls did not grow to what was expected of it, it still remains a good little town of about one hun• dred inhabitants, with several enterprises, and beyond qttestion will some day become one of the principal points of the county. The high water of the autumn of r894 cre• ated havoc among the business houses of Che• lan Falls, one store building collapsing and an• other being swung around into the middle of the street, a third undermined and two others flooded. The blacksmith shop was carried away bodily. The Chelan river, for a quarter of a mile above its mouth, changed its course,· cutting a new channel. The flood failed to

L for many years to come and furnish the raw E ma• terial for saw mills for twenty or thirty A V years. Leavenworth is the shipping point and E supply station for the Blewett mining district, N there being an excellent wagon road between W O HISTORY OF thisNORTH WASHINGTON. R place and the town of Blewett. Another and T H perhaps the most important factor in the . growth of the town in the past is that Leaven· worth is the division point of the Great North• On the line of the Great ern railway. Northern railroad, twenty-three The history of the town of Leavenworth miles west of Wenatchee, sur• dates from the spring of r8g2. At that period rounded on every side by the towering peaks of the lofty Cascades, is located the picturesque little city of Leavenworth. The situation is pre-eminently beautiful. Immediately to the west of the town rise the colossal Cascades, with marked abruptness, the towering peaks of which are covered the year round with a blan• ket of snow. Arising more gently to the north and south are spurs of the great mountain range. To the east extends the valley through which flows the Wenatchee river. But it is not alone the picturesqueness of the location that has caused a thriving little city to be built here . Adjacent to the town is excellent agricultural land- limited in area, ''tis true-but land which time has proven can produce as abundantly as anywhere in the state. Timothy and alfalfa are raised in abundance, and it has been shown that fruit raised in this part of the valley is on a par with that raised in other portions of the country around We• natchee. Water in abundance issues from springs high up in the Cascade mountains, and the people of Leavenworth point with pride· and,justly so, to the pure, sparkling liquid that is piped down for use in the city. There is an abundance of timber on the mountains, in the immediate vicinity, that will provide fuel

the graders on the Great Northern roadway fifty business houses in the new town, dealing reached this point and a little town of log struc• in dry goods, groceries, boots .and shoes, drugs, tures made its appearance, about a mile up the etc. There were many restaurants, hotels, sa• river from the present site of Leavenworth, and loons and all of these enterprises did a thriv• was named Icicle. In March of that year, a ing business. Woods Brothers erected a saw few business houses having been started, a mill and gave employment to about seventy-five postoffice was established. The mail -was men. Their pay-roll and that of the railroad brought twice a week by a special carrier, paid cori1pany furnished plenty of cash to support by the government. Early in June we find that all of the business houses. the business houses of Icicle were one general The first addition to Leavenworth was plat• store, two. restaurants, a blacksmith shop and ted April I, 1893, by the Leavenworth Real three saloons. In October the railroad reached Estate and Improvement Company. Other ad• this point, and it becoming known that the ditions to the town have been since platted, as company had decided to make a division point follows: Second addition, March 27, 1896, here, a full-fledged "boom" was in progress. by Michael Callaghan; Ralston addition, May The Okanogan Investment Company, of which g, 1898, by Mary Ralston. Captain Leavenworth, of Olympia, J. P. The first fire in Leavenworth's history oc• Graves, Alonzo M. Murphy and S. T. Arthur, curred in November, 1894. A frame building all of Spokane, were the members, platted the on the "Big Rock" corner, occupied jointly by townsite where Leavenworth now stands. The William James, with a barber shop, and T. C. new town was named Leavenworth, in honor Owens, jeweler, was burned. The loss was of the president of the Okanogan Investment small and there was no insurance. Thanks• Company. giving day, 1896, Leavenworth was visited by Previous to the platting of the town the a very disastrous conflagration, and it almost Great Northern Railway Company secured a effected the annihilation of the town and some strip of land one mile long, extending four of its people. . Seven buildings were con• hundred feet, on each side of the track, and im• sumed, all occupied, and there was not one dol• mediately built side-tracks and made the place lar of insurance on buildings or contents. The their division point. Preparations were also fated structures were located in the same block begun for the erection of a depot, round house in which the fire of r894 ocurred. John and coal bunkers. At this period the townsite Bjork's Overland Hotel, Bisbee & Donohoe's was covered with trees, but within a few saloon, Posey's barber shop, Severton's sa• months the land was cleared and a number of loon, Mrs. H. A. Anderson's restaurant, J. M. business and residence houses were built. The Duffy's saloon and a dwelling occupied by Mr. growth of Leavenworth was rapid during the Belvel were burned out. John Bjork was one winter of 1892-3. All of the business houses of the heaviest losers by the fire, which origi• at Icicle were removed to the new site and nated in his hotel, and he saved nothing and many outsiders came to engage in business. carried no insurance. His loss alone was nearly People who had formerly been in business in $ro,ooo on building and furniture. None of \i\T enatchee cast their lot in the new town; the property destroyed was insured. With one among them were Messrs. Wilcox, Richardson, exception, however, all managed to rebuild Cox, Gillis, Rarey, White, Taylor, Bowman, and resume business. The total loss by this Bradley, Wadell, Hoy and Kelly. By the first fire has been variously estimated at from $25,• of February, 1893, a population of seven hun• ooo to $3o,ooo. dred was claimed. There were some forty or Sunday afternoon, pecember 28, 1902, the HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON. 731

town was again visited by fire. The sufferers by of F. S. Taylor & Company, and the confec• tionery store of Miss this disaster were G. C. Merriam, dealer in Anna Tholin. There have, ' general merchandise, whose loss on stock and building was over $2o,ooo, with no insttrance._ The loss of Mrs. Beamish, milliner, was small. ]. W. Poag, who conducted a restau• rant and confectionery, lost on stock and fix• tures $6oo with no insurance. Dr. Hoxsey's loss on library and instruments was about $300 with no insurence. G. C. Christensen owned the building in which was· the millinery store and carried no insurence. The in"lprovemen:ts for 1903 in Leaven• worth are as follows : In the early spring the Lamb-Davis Lumber Company incorporated with a paid-up capital of $25o,ooo, their prin• cipal place of business being here. They pur• chased all of the vacant lots of the original townsite company; bought about thirty acres of land of Miss Mary Ralston, bought the William Douglas homestead, and forty acres of John Holden for a mill site, and proceeded to erect a saw mill of 150,000 feet capacity. They built a large boarding house to accommo• date their employees, and placed it in charge of Mrs. George Hood, also a, fine hospital, under superintendency of Dr. William McCoy. They purchased the city water works of Barron & Spencer and constructed a flume two miles up the vVenatchee river. The water works are in• corporated, as is also the electric light plant. The Lamb-Davis Lumber Company incorpor• ated the Tumwater Savings Bank, with a paid-up capital of $25,ooo, and are now con-' dusting a general banking business. The Leavenworth IVIercantile Company erected a brick store building 35x100 feet in size, which is handsomely finished and stocked. Adams & Burke erected a brick building 30x70 feet, put in billiard and pool tables and a fine bar. Carl Christensen ran up a two-story frame building 22x50 feet, the lower story of wl1ich is occupied by the postoffice and jewelry store

during this year, been about Walker & Company, a new building, recently fifty buildings erected, completed, and valued at $2,• ooo, was the last costing from three or four to to burn. The meat market was a total loss, fifteen hundred dollars. but Mr. Bloom carried $300 msurance. each. Adams & Burke's hall was also a total loss, Sunday, January 24, there being $6oo insurance. Plish 1904, fire destroyed six & Bliss were the heaviest losers, their building buildings in Leavenworth, being a total loss, and most of the stock de• and, fanned by · a strong stroyed. An entire carload of goods, just re• gale, for a time threatened ceived, and stored in the basement of the Amer• the entire town. The ican Hotel, was a total loss. Plish & Bliss total loss was $25,000, with carried about $3,000 insurance. The origin in• surance of $14,000. En of this fire is not known. Several firms whose ·masse the town turned out to fight the flames and only by vigorous work was the fire prevented from destroying a wider territory. The Great Northern Rail• way employees were called upon to save the depot property. The snow, which was two feet deep on the roofs of buildings proved an ef• ficient ally in fighting this fire. Flames broke out about 5 o'clock a. m., in the ball room owned by Adams & Burke, which was a wooden structure. The strong wind sent the flames rapidly to the store owned by Plish & Bliss, one of the leading firms in the town. This was well fitted up, carrying all kinds of dry goods a.nd groceries. The fire next at tacked the new meat market, conducted by L. W. Bloom, which had been opened for busi• ness about three weeks. Mr. Bloom saved nearly all of his fixtures. He did not own the building: The Overland Hotel was the next building burned, owned by John Bjork, and leased to J. W. Elliott. The American House, a restaurant and lodging house combined, was next destroyed. This was an old wooden structure owned by Capell Brothers. The sa• loon owned by

732 HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

places of business were not reached by the to the vicinity, and George Kline brought in a flames lost heavily at the hands of thieves after small stock of goods and opened a modest lit- - their stock had been removed to the street. tle store, the first business house in Mission. With characteristic western spirit the work of These settlers succeeded· in getting a postoffice rebuilding was begun early, and at this writing established and Mr. Kline was appointed post• is being rapidly pushed. master; The following year 0. J. Steward At present Leavenworth is a town of about came to Mission and with him came a large soo population. The fraternal organizations stock of general merchandise, and he, also, are the Foresters of America, Independent opened up for business. · Mr. Kline retired and Order of Good Templars, Ancient Order of Mr. Steward became postmaster. Until r89r United ·workmen, and Degree of Honor. The the latter's was the only business house in Mis• Locomotive Firemen have also an organiza• sion. Then Ira Freer opened up the second tion. The churches represented are the Con• store. He continued in business two years and gregational and Catholic. then sold out to John Kuelbs.

When it became known that the Great MISSION. Northern railroad was to pass through Mis• sion a townsite was platted by John F. Wood• Located on the Wenatchee river, eleven ring and I. W. Sherman. This took place July miles north-vvest of Wenatchee, on the line of 27, 1892. Since then additions have been plat• the Great Northern railroad, is the little town ted as follows : Woodring's plat, September of Mission, containing a population of about 19, 1892, by John F. Woodring; Steward's two hundred and fifty. The village is situated plat, April 3, 1893, by Oliver J. Steward; in what is known as Mission Valley, one of Prowell's plat, September 30, 1901, by W. W. the choicest fruit producing sections in the Curtiss; Nob Hill plat, April 9, 1902, by Wal• world. Not only is this vicinity noted for fruit ter M. Oiive; Capital Hill plat, June, 1902, by raising, but diversified farming is carried on Dennis Strong; West Mission, July 9, 1902, by extensively, and Mission is the shipping point M. 0. Tibbets; First addition, March 3, 1903, for all these products. by C. D. Halferty and others. So early as r863 Father Respari, a Catholic The building of the railroad in the fall of missionary, came to this vicinity, for the pur• 1892 did not have the effect of creating a pose of civilizing the Indians. For twenty years "boom" in Mission such as has been experi• he labored among them .and was then suc• enced in many other towns, in fact it was not ceeded by Father Grassi. The latter built a log until several years later that the railroad com• church on the bank of the river one-fourth of pany accorded Mission a depot. July 30, rgoo, a mile from the present town of Mission. It the company placed an agent and operator in was not until r88o or r88r that the first per• the town. manent settler came to the country in the vi• Of 'the first church in Mission the We• cinity of Mission. At that period A. B. Bren• natchee Advance, of date August s; 1893· says: der came to the country and squatted on a "Last Sunday, July 30, was a day long to ranch four miles from the present town. He be remembered by the people of Mission. Some was followed the succeeding year by William months ago a congregation was organized by Burzwart, and shortly after that came Casper Dr: Gunn, the synodical missionary of the Bowers, both of whom selected land close to Presbyterian church. Snon after the organiza• the ranch of Mr. Brender. In the spring of tion was made articles of incorporation were r888 quite a settlement of ranchers had come registered and steps taken··for the erection·

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON. 733

a church edifice. The work was entered upon erected and an agent installed. Today to one with such earnestness and hearty cheer that unacquainted with the volume of business done the result is the erection of a very neat and at Mission the following figures will appear in• commodious church, which was taken posses:.. credible : The receipts for freight received at sion of Sunday, and dedicated." the station from July, 1902, to July, 1903, were Following are the business enterprises of $15,992-47; the sum paid for freight exported Mission in January, 1904: Walter M. Olive, amounted to $3,o8s.so; express, $4,500; hardware store, carrying over $6,ooo worth of tickets sold, $5,194.15; making a to.tal of $28,- stock; Ira Freer, general merchandise, carrying 772.12. The increase of business in 1903 over over $16,ooo worth of stock; N. Wilcox, gen• 1902 was nearly $1o,ooo. During the past year eral merchandise, $3,000 stock; M. M. Sto• the railroad company has made extensive im- . well carries about $s,ooo worth of dry goods provements, making Mission not only a very and groceries; T. Spiller & Company, general comfortable station, but convenient as well. merchandise; John Shurle, blacksmith; two Two agents are employed to look after the in• restaurants conducted by Mr. McCormick and terests of the railway company. Mr. Weymouth; meat market by John Kuelbs; Three well stocked lumber yards provide Dr. Thomas Musgrove, resident physician, everything necessary for building purposes. proprietor of a first-class drug store; Walter Mr. Hartley carries a full stock, as does Wal• Torrence, barber; excellent hotel, . conducted ter M. Olive. Mr. Halferty came to Mission by Mr. ·weymouth, and owned by Mrs. Blagg. over a year ago and purchased a large tract of It is known as the Eastern Washington. timber at the "Camar." He it:J.stalled a first• Perhaps the best evidence of Mission's class mill and cut his lumber at the forest, haul• growth and prosperity is witnessed in her ing the marketable lumber to Mission, where he schools. Four years ago the school comprised has a large yard. one room, in which were gathered twenty• The fraternal societies are represented by seven pupils, with three or four months' term. the G. A. R., Post No. 94; Relief Corps, No. Today there is a handsome building supplied 57; Knights of the Maccabees, McChesney with modern improvements, costing over $6,• Tent N.o. 85; Ladies of the Maccabees, Mission ooo. The schools are in charge of J. L. Camp• Valley Hive No. 43; A. 0. U. W., Mission bell, ably assisted by C. AThomas, Miss Myr• Lodge No. 43; Degree of Honor, No. 6o, tle Earl and Miss Myrtle Benson. One hun• Eden Lodge; M. W. A., Mission Camp ·No. dred and forty pupils are enrolled. In the high 5856; R. N. A., Cascade Camp No. 2479; I. school there is a graded course comprising the 0. 0. F., Mission Lodge No. 208. ninth, tenth and eleventh grades. A practical and energetic school board, consisting of Dr. CASCADE TUN:NEL. Thomas Musgrove, E. E. Stowell and Louis Titchenal, has the interests of this institution For several years there was a town in what at heart, with but one ob ject in view, to give is now Chelan county, known by the various Mission the best possible educational advant• names of Cascade Tunnel, Tunnel City and ages. Tunnel. It came into existence in the autumn Five years ago Mission was an unimport• of 1897, and was located at the eastern en• ant flag station, with no agent. Walter M. trance of the famous Great Northern tunnel Olive acted as express agent. Better railroad through the Cascade range.. 'vVork was begun accommodation was demanded, owing to the on this tunnel in 1897, and for over three years wonderful growth of the valley. A depot was several hundred laborers were employed in the

734 HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

enterprise of piercing this lofty range of moun• in comparison they are falsely ludicrous as a tains. It \vas but a natural sequence that a grease spot is insignificant when placed in town should not be long in making its appear• comparison with Romeo. Cascade Tunnel is, ance. Several merchants from Leavenworth indeed, a wicked place, because conditions are moved their stocks to this point, others came favorable to the exposure of the rough side of in, and there was soon here a flourishing life-and men and women are the same the "camp." In the fall of 1897 a postoffice was world over-some are good, some are bad established. others indifferent, none is absolutely spotless, The inhabitants of this town were com• · and none is enti ely devoid of good. But how posed of people from every part of the world silly the assertion that Cascade Tunnel is the and of every class; "all sorts and conditions wickedest place on earth! Let me say that an of men." Cascade Tunnel was not what woufd intelligent person starting out on an honest aptly be termed a "Sunday school town." In tour of investigation can go into any of the fact Cascade Tunnel at one period secured a leading cities of the nation and thei"e find vice world-wide reputation as "the wickedest place that will shock the modesty of the most de• in the world," owing to an article published in praved individual who ever made a track in the N e·w York T/Vorld> and extensively copied. Cascade Tunnel. In June, r 900, Mr. Frank Reeves, then of Cas• "During the construction of the Great cade Tunnel, refuted the charge as follows : Northern Railway Wenatchee and Icicle were "My attention has been called to a publi• to Cascade Tunnel as a literal hell is to a small cation of some weeks ago by the N ew York edition of purgatory, and even today the me• W orld of an article on Cascade Tunnel under tropolis of the state of Washington is so much the sensational caption, 'The Wickedest Place tougher than Cascade Tunnel that the tough• in the World.' I understand that this article has est of the Cascade toughs are but mere infants been copied and embellished ·in a number of . when they get clown on a tough street in Se• f oreign journals, , including the London attle, a city of churches, refinement and edu• Graphic. I see nothing in the article calling cation, full of blue-coated policemen and guar• for special comment more loudly than the man• dians of public morals. How, then, does the ifest stupidity of the writer, who stands con• a rrestion of 'the wickedest place in the world' victed of being a novice in his profession by sound _ as applied to "Cascade Tunnel, where his own w riting, and of wilfully disseminat• but one deputy sheriff is required to conser ve ing f alsehoods without provocation, reason or the peace, and where five hund red la borers are justification. employed ? Any place, town, city, count y or "Let it be understood in the beginning tha t nation is what the people make it, a nd while I am not sponsor for the good behavior of Cas• Cascade Tunnel has not that evidence of per• cade Tunnel, nor do I endeavor to place it in manency lat at tracts the substantial class, it the immaculate category. But Cascade Tun• must not pass for truth that none but rene• el is in Chelan county, and bad though it maygades are located there. A number of the best be, I do not acquiesce in its unwarranted slan• families of the state reside there, and they have der, and have taken it upon myself to refute a school district organized where their children some of the World's correspondenf's nefarious are being educated with the same degree of assertions, because no one else seems to have skill and diligence employed in other civilized considered the matter of sufficient importance communities. There are both men and women to do so. Some of the statements made in the living in Cascade Tunnel capable of ornament• article are, in the_ abstract, practically true, but ing and dignifying society of the best class,

' .

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON. 735

and for the most part the laborers there are in• The principal industries in this vicinity are dustrious, manly, courageous fellows who at• lumqering and mining. There is a sawmill tend strictly to their own business. There are, and stamp mill at Entiat. The town is con• of course, many exceptions, but the rule is as nected by long distance telephone and receives stated. a daily mail by boats that ply the Columbia "I have been on the frontier in Washing• river. Presbyterian and Campbellite churches ton and Idaho for the last ten years and have are maintained, and there is a good public never yet been in a mining or railroad camp school. that has been handled as well and at as little

expense as Cascade. Tunnel, nor where actual BLEWETT. lawlessness was less prevalent." Saturday, June 23, 1900, every building This is a mining camp situated about eight• in the business portion of Tunnel City was een miles south of Leavenworth, with which swept by fire, and but few goods were saved place it is connected by a stage road built in from the saloons and stores. There was no in• r898. Blewett has a population of about forty surance and the loss was total. All of the build• people, nearly all of whom are engaged in min• ings were frame structures, and the flames ing. spread rapidly in all directions. C. 0. Dono• So far as the records show the first quartz son lost between $6,ooo and $7,000, with no in• ledge to be discovered in the state of \Vashing• surance, and Charles Scherinewski, proprietor ton was the Culver, on Peshastin creek, where of a restaurant, lost in addition to his building stands the town of Blewett. This was located and business, cash to the amount of $8oo. Rob• in the early 6o's, when the tide of miners were ert Dye was asleep in his barber shop and was returning from the Cariboo district in British awakened by the roar of flames. He escaped Columbia. Since that period the mines in the vvith his life, a Winchester rifle and a fish-pole, vicinity have been worked and ·several milloins leaving behind his vest containing $400 in in gold taken out. The settlement of Blewett is greenbacks. Frank Dorn, proprietor of two the oldest in Chelan county. merchandise stores, saved some of his stock,

but his loss was between $3,000 and $4,000. OTHER PLACES. With the completion of the Cascade Tunnel the town rapidly deteriorated. The reasoa for Five miles east of Leavenworth, on the its existence had passed into history. Great Northern railroad, is Peshastin postoffice

and flag station. Here are one store and two ENTIAT. saw mills. Peshastin buclclecl in 1892, when the railroad reached this point, a1d during that Twenty miles north of Wenatchee, at the summer boasted of two grocery stores, one dry confluence of the Entiat and Columbia rivers, goods store, five saloons, four restaurants, two is the town of Entiat. The Entiat valley was bakeries, two hotels, two feed stables, one black• settled in the early 90's. Elder T. J. Cannon smith 3hop and a saw mill. With the location was among the first pioneers in the valley, and of the railroad division at Leavenworth and the he was the first to erect a saw mill, utilizing subsequent growth of that town Peshastin, as the water-power furnished by the Entiat river, a business center, became a thing of the past. near its mouth. Many settlers were in the val• Chiwaukum is a postoffice on the ley previous to the establishment of the town Great Northern railroad, thirty-three miles of Entiat, and before a postoffice was secured. northwest of Wenatchee. It is in a mining and

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

lumbering district and here are located a saw office. It was established in 1892 and M. E. mill, store and hotel. One of the largest state Field, Chelan county's representative in the fish hatcheries in W;ashington is at this place. Washington legislature, was made postmaster, Monitor is a flag-station and recently es• which position he still holds. There is no settle• tablished postoffice on the Great Northern rail• ment at Stehekin, the only business enterprise way, eight miles northwest of \Venatchee. It 'at this point being Field's Hotel. During the is in the center of a fine fruit and farming coun• summer several hundred tourists visit Stehe-· try. There is one store at Monitor. kin, to pass their vacation. Steamers make Malaga is a flag-station and postoffice, daily trips from Lakeside during the summer seven miles southeast of Wenatchee, on the and twice a week throughout the winter months. Great Northern railroad. May 19, 1903, a · Another summer resort and postoffice near townsite was platted here by Kirk Whited, of the head of the lake is Moore's, about eight Wenatchee. miles below Stehekin, and on the'north shore · Merritt, forty-two miles northwest of We• of the lake. Moore postoffice was established natchee, and eleven miles west of Chiwaukum, in 1892, and Colonel J. Robert Moore, pro• near the mouth of Cascade Tunnel, is a post• prietor of the hotel located here, has since held office and flag-station on the Great Northern the position of postmaster. Moore's, like Ste• railway. hekin, is a popular summer resort. At the head of Lake Chelan, where the Lucerne is a postoffice on the south shore of Stehekin river joins the lake, is Stehekin post- Lake Chelan, a short distance below Moore's.

CHAPTER V.

EDUCATIONAL.

August 6, 1884, the commissioners of Kit• eluded in Okanogan county. In 1889 a school titas county formed a school district, which is district was formed here, being District No. 5· described in their proceedings as "lying along The first school meeting in the new district was the \Nenatchee river." In this district, with held July 3 I, of that year, and Captain indefinite bounds, was soon after-established a Charles Johnson, B. Lovelace and C. Robin• school, which was the beginning of the educa• son were elected a board of directors, and L. H. tional history of Chelan county, the southern Woodin, clerk. Mrs. Charles Johnson was em• portion of which was subsequently set off from ployed as teacher, but taught only about two Kittitas county. Data concerning this initial weeks. The teachers succeeding Mrs. John• school is meager, but of the opening of the first son were Miss Etta Burch, Miss Ida Malott, school in the Lake Chelan district, which oc• Frank Samson, Miss Lizzie Cavanaugh and curred a few years later, a more extended ac• R. H. Porter. For several years there was but count is obtainable. one department in the school, and the first ses• The Lake Chelan country was then in- sion was held in the building adjacent to Wob-

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON. 737

din & Nichols's store; later: Gymnasium Hall Chelan. county held a state certificate, four was converted into a school room. In 1892 a held certificates from the elementary course of new school building was erected in Chelan at a state normal school,·two from the advanced ·a cost of $2,500. It contained two large reci- course of study at a state nprmal school, twelve tation rooms, aside from a spacious vestibule held first grade county certificates, twenty and cloak room below, and a commodious au• second-grade and eight third-grade. In Chelan ditorium above. When the new school house ' county are six graded schools-at wenatchee, was occupied a primary department was added. 'Chelan, Leavenworth, Mission, Lakeside and At the organization of Chelan county, in "Wenatchee North End." There are four January, 1900, John D. Atkinson, now Wash• high schools in the county-a three-years' ington's state auditor, was made county super• course at Wenatchee and two years' courses at intendent of schools and at once entered upon Leavenworth, Chelan and Mission. There is his duties. In the county election of 1900 a teachers' association in the county which John E. Porter was chosen superintendent of meets four times a year, and also a summer schools and has since held that position. The training school. wonderful increase in Chelan county's popula• Concerning the growth of the public schools tion during the past few years has brought during the past few years County Superin• about a c.orresponding increase in the number of tendent John E. Porter, writing in January, public schools. From the county superintend• 1904, said: ent's report at the close of the school year for "The growth and improvement of our 1903 we learn that . there ,are in the county schools is keeping pace with the increase in 2,130 children between the ages of five and population. Four years ago four teachers twenty-one years. There are 1,783 enrolled in taught all the children in the valley around the public schools and an average daily attend• \i\T enatchee. Now eighteen teachers are re• ance of r,rro. The average number of months quired to do the work. In this time the Wenat• school was taught during the year was 5.8. chee school has grown from three teachers to There are thirty-eight school districts in the hirteen. Three years ago there were hardly county and fifty-nine teachers were employed to enough pupils at North End for one teacher. conduct the schools during the year. The aver• Now three rooms are very much crowded, and age monthly salary paid male teachers was $55 a two-room school has sprung up just across and $44.23 to female teachers. There are in the Wenatchee river. the county thirty-six school houses, of which "There has been great growth in the two are log structures, thirty-three frame and schools in other parts of the county as well. one brick builoing. The total seating capacity Mission has increased from one to four teach• of these school houses is 1,584, and the total ers; Leavenworth from two to four; Chelan value of all school property in the county is from three to five and Lakeside from one to $43,377· two. New buildings have been constructed During the year 1903, three hundred and during the year at Wenatchee, Mission, Pine fifty-one scholars were enrolled in the first Flat, the Highland district, near Chelan, and year's course of study, 236 in the second, 249 Birch Flat. Wenatchee and Birch Flat have in the third, 282 in the fourth, 212 in the fifth, each put in modern heating plants, thus aban• 177 in the sixth, r 14 in the seventh, II4 in the doning the old stoves. This is an improvement eighth, 35 in the ninth, and 13 in the tenth. greatly to be commended. The heater is Forty-one pupils graduated from the common cheaper to operate than stoves, makes the heat school course during the year. One teacher in more even, and furnishes good ventilation. 47

'I

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

"As the schools grow, more attention is at the university. Mission, Chelan and Leav• given to high schools. There are about sixty enworth each has a two-year high school, and pupils in the Vvenatchee high school. Three each is doing good work. Teachers' salaries years' work is done, requiring the services of have increased and the standard required for three teachers. Doubtles the fourth year's certificates has been raised. These are moves work will be added next year, placing the in the right direction. We want well qualified \TV enatchee high school on a par with any in . teachers, and are willing to pay them good the state, and enabling pupils to prepare them• wages." selves fully for admission to the freshman class

CHAPTER VI.

POLITICAL.

The county commissioners named in the presided as chairman and Jolm Godfrey, of bill creating Chelan county were Dennis Strong Wenatchee, was named as secretary. A full of Missic:n, Spencer Boyd, of- Chelan, and G. ticket was nominated. At the general election Hoxsey. Mr. Hoxsey declining to qualify for of that year, held November 6, the Republican the office, the other two commissioners appoint• presidential electors received in Chelan county ed, as county officials, H. A. Graham, Chelan, 566, the Democratic electors 574, votes. The treasurer; F. F. Keller, Stehekin, sheriff; L. V. vote for other officers was as follows : Wells, Wenatchee, clerk of court; C. J. Trow, Congress.-Cushman, Republican, 559; Chelan, auditor; Alexander Pitcher, assessor; Jones, Republican, 563 ; Robertson, Democrat, John D. Atkinson, superintendent of schools; 564; Ronald, Democrat, 576. Dr. A. A. Tozer, Leavenworth, coroner, and Supreme Judge.-Mount, Republican, 573; James H. Chase, prosecuting attorney. punbar, Republican, 564; Million, Democrat, The first county convention in the new po• 556; \Vinsor, Democrat, 554· litical division of the state was held by the Re• Governor.-]. M. Frink, Republican, 485; publican party at Leavenworth, Satt1rday, Au• John R, Rogers, Democrat, 652. gust I I, I900. J. D. Atkinson was named as State Senator.-M. E. Hay, Republican, chairman and A. A. Anderson, secretary. Au• 572; Garber, Democrat, 567. gust 25, the Democratic county convention was Superior Judge.-Myers, Republican, 545; held at Wenatchee. This assembly developed Neal, Democrat, 592. a strong sentiment in favor of fusion with the Representative.-A. L. Andrews, of Tun• members of the People's Party, and fusion was nel, Republican, 635; 0. A. Hoag, of Lak finally effected. C. C. Campbell, of Chelan, side, D mocrat, 529.

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON. 739

Commissioner First District-Alexander Representatives to Congress.-F. W. Cush• Pitcher, of Wenatchee, Republican, 521; Con• man, Republican, 703; W. L. Jones, Repub• rad Rose; of Wenatchee, Democrat, 622. lican, 713; \i\1. E. Humphrey, Republican, 699; Commissioner Second District-Dennis George F. Cotterill, Democrat, 48 ; 0. R. Strong, of Mission, Republican, 597; J. T. Holcomb, Democrat, 453; Frank B. Cole, Boyle, of Leavenworth, Democrat, 551. Democrat, 456; J. C. Martin, socialist labor, Commissioner Third District-Spencer 5 ; William H. McCormick, socialist labor, 5 ; Boyd, of Chelan, Republican, 589; Charles H. P. Jorgenson, socialist labor, 6; J. H. C. Colver, of Chelan, Democrat, 552. Scurlock, socialist, 26; D. Burgess, socialist, Auditor.-C. J. Trow, of Wenatchee, Re• .3 I ; G. W. Scott, socialist, 3I ; A. H. Sher- publican, 644; H. Patterson, of Mission, Demo• wood, Prohibition, ro; W. J. McKean, Prohi• crat, 500. bition, IO; 0. L. , Prohibition, I r. Clerk.-A. S. Lindsay, of Wenatchee; 6I7; Cushman's plurality, 22I; Jones' 260; Humph• John Godfrey, of \iVenatchee, 546. rey's, 243. Treasurer.-H. A. Graham, of \iVenatchee, Judges Supreme Court.-Hiram E. Had• Republican, 587; T. J. Cannon, of Entiat, ley, Republican, 710; J. B. Reavis, Democrat, Democrat, 560. 459; William J. Hoag, socialist labor, 6; Sheriff.-F. F. Keller, of Wenatchee, Re• Thomas Neill, socialist, 25· Plurality for publican, 6I9; Henry Middleton, of Chiwau• Hadley, 2 5 I. kum, Democrat, 540. State Representative.-M. E. Field, Repub• County Attorney.-S. D. Griffith, of We• lican, 690; J. B. Adams, Democrat, 537· Ma• natchee, Republican, 530; Frank Reeves, of J .:ity for Field, I 53. vVenatchee, Democrat> 548; I irk \iVhited, of Sheriff.-F. F. Keller, Republican, 652; Wenatchee, 83. -? Thomas Parrish, Democrat, 576. Majority School Superi 1tendent.- J. E. Porter, of for Keller, 76. Wenatchee, Republican, 6Ib; C. \iVill Shaffer, Clerk-C. Christensen, Republican, 737; of \iVenatchee, Democrat, 559· 0. B. Fuller, Democrat, 494· Majority for Assessor.-George N. Vlatson, of Leaven• Christensen, 243. worth, Republican, 56I ; D. C. \Nilson, of En• Auditor-C. J. Trow, Republican, 809; tiat, Democrat, 590. John Godfrey, Democrat, 401. Majority for Surveyor.-\i\1. R. Prowell, Republican, of Trow, 408. Wenatchee, 6o4; vVilliam Gibson, of Chelan, Treasurer.-H. A. Graham, Republican, Democrat, 543· 766; J. B. Shepherd, Democrat, 453· Major• Coroner.-J. E. Shore, of Leavenvvorth, ity for Graham, 3I 3· Republican, 569; G. \i\1. Hoxsey, of Leaven- Prosecuting Attorney.-Georg·e P. Mor• worth, Democrat, 582. · ' gan, Republican, 567; Frank Reeves, Demo• Thursday, August 28, I902, the Chelan crat, 661. Majority for Reeves, 94· Republican county convention was held at the Assessor.-C. E. Buttles, Republican, 683; town of Chelan; Walter M. Olive, chairman, D. C. Wilson, Democrat, 536. Majority for of Mission; V/. H. Otis, of Peshastin, secretary. Buttles, 147· This was followed by the Democratic county Superintendent of Schools.-John E. Por• convention which assembled, also, at Chelan, ter, Republican, 705; G. R. Fentem, Democrat, September I3, of which c: C. Campbell was soo. Majority for Porter, 205. chairman and J. B. Shepherd,f Mission, sec• Surveyor.-vV. R. Prowell, Republican, retary. The vote at the general election was as 789; E. M. Fry, Democrat, 409. Majority for follows: Prowell, 380.

740 HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

Coroner.-C. Gilchrist, Republican, 708; Commissioner Second District-Edward G. W. Hoxsey, Democrat, 499· Majority-for Hinman, Republican, 665; G. W. Grant, Demo• Gilchrist, 209. Dr. Gilchrist declined to qual• crat, 535· Majority for Hinman, 130. ify for the office of coroner, and his political Commissioner Third District-Spencer opponent, G. W. Hoxsey, was appointed cor• Boyd, Republican, 631; M.· M. Foote, Demo• oner of Chelan county, which position he still crat, 559· Majority for Boyd, 72. holds.

8o8 HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

Charles E., our subject, has remained in the subject was educated in the public school and family of his parents since birth. At present when thirteen left the school desk for the work he is an active partner with his father in the on the farm, going thus early in the responsible sawmill business, which is successfully conduc• duties to assist his father, who was sick, in the ted. He owns forty acres of land adjoining support of the family. For two years he la• the mill property, and this land he is laying out bored thus and then went to Iowa, whence after in attractive terraces, intending to erect a hand• one year he returned to Wisconsin. After some some frame house the coming fall for his future time spent in Wisconsin, we find Mr. Miller in home. Minnesota, where he took government land and At All Saints Cathedral, Spokane, Febru• farmed for about a decade. Following that he ary 25, 1903, the ceremony was performed made his way to Washington and located on his which united him in marriage to Miss Viola pr sent place about six miles up the Entiat. He Cluster, born in Eugene, Oregon, July 28, has. a fine young orchard and some very fertile r87o. She is the daughter of William F. and · hay land and is improving his place in a very Mary (Courtney) Cluster, the father a i1ative creditable manner. · of Indiana; the mother of Marysville, Ohio. In Marquette county, vVisconsin, in r882, In r862 her father crossed the plains·and set• Mr. Miller married Miss Anna J. Johnson, a tled in Grande Ronde valley. Later he re• nati-\re of Wisconsin. Her father was born in turned east, and in r868 came to the Willa.,. - England and her mother is a native of New mette valley. His father came from Germany York. To this marriage five children have when quite young, and for the past twenty been born, Cora E., Francis R., Grace vV., years has resided at Pomeroy. Her mother is Georgia M. and William F. Mr. and Mrs. of Scotch-Irish descent, her parents having Miller are devout members of the Congrega• been born in the United States. Mrs. Gray tional church and sustain a most excellent rep• has one brother and one·sister, Eugene, of Pom• utation in the community. eroy, a wheat buyer at that point; and Flor• In political matters, our subject has always ence, wife of Edward M. Pomeroy, an employe been allied with the Republican party and is a of the Walla Walla Penitentiary, formerly man of sound judgment and substantial qual• county auditor of Garfield county, apd prom• ities. inent in political circles in Pomeroy. His wife is a graduate of the Pomeroy high school, in which she has taught, and, also, one term at HON. MERRITT E. FIELD is owner and Chelan and one at Entiat. operator of the well-known Hotel Field, which Our subject is a broad-minded,. progressive is located at the head of the Chelan lake and is young man, active and influential in politics, one of the most popular summer resorts in the and endowed with excellent business abilities northwest. Lake Chelan is known to tourists, and social qualities. ' far and near, and Mr. Field's house is as popu• lar with the travelling and touring public as is beautiful Chelan. He acquired possessory i·ights to property at the head of Chelan in 1892 JOHN F. MILLER was born in Mar- and soon opened a hotel there. Later he erected quette county_, Wisconsin, April 19, r858, the a larg·e and beautiful structure with accommo• son of Francis and Elizabeth Miller. The elations for nearly one hundred guests. The father was born in Boston, Massachusetts, fol- place is set amid the towering mountains of the lowed the jewelry business, and died in \iVis- Cascades, being in the heart of the range, yet is consin. The mother was born at Arlington easily accessible, as it is close to the steamboat Heights and is now living in Wisconsin. The landing. It has been tastefully surrounded with ancestors were natives of New England for everything beautiful and attractive, not forget• generations back. Mr. Miller has four broth- ting comfort, and it is becoming immensely ers; Fred, Jesse, Charles and William. Mr. popular. In addition to this, Mr. Field pro• Miller's father enlisted in the Civil war and vides boats and everything needed by the tour• fought throughout the entire struggle, without ist to thoroughly enjoy himself._ A Ia ge receiving a wound. In the Badger state, our l quota of fine horses are at hand for packmg

MERRITT E. FIELD.

HISTORY OF NORTH WASHINGTON.

purposes and for the accommodation of guests ·Ohlhansen, and one child, Olive, has been born in making excursions into the mountains. to them. Mr. Field is a member of the A.· F. & Abundance of game is supplied the table and A. M. and in political matters is a Republican. the wealth of .fruits raised in this region are at He was elected to the state legislaturfrom hand, while the cuisine is of the best to be Chelan county last year. and in 1899, was the found. Thus the tourist is favored with the representative of Okanogan county. He intro• beauty and grandeur of the magnificent moun• duced the bill which gave Chelan county an tains,_ can satiate himself with the life giving existence and fought it through. He is now ozone and yet enjoy the richest fruits, finest veg• postmaster at Stehekin and also is 8irector in etables, and choicest game and fish. The rare his district. Mr. Field stands well and is a placidity of Chelan's azure depths viewed from man with many friends. the drifting boat, where speed the quivering trout or listlessly rolls the mullet; the towering forests, stately and grand, whose highways are the deep solitudes and quiet glens; the awing ADELBERT L. COOL is today one of canyons, tortuous and , guar.ded by Chelan county's representative mining men, the eternal watch towers of nature; the grand and his labors in this region for some years past old piles, strewed by the reckless hand of up• have demonstrated that he is one of the men heaval's giant, with proud heads staying the whose judgment and skill have led him to this onward flight of the clouds; the tinkling brook, section for investment and whose untiring en• whose music chimes the cords of nature's ergy, coupled with rare executive ability, has sweetest lays; the restless rushing of the im- · placed him atthe head of one of the most prom• petuous Stehekin with its mighty roar; the im• ising enterprises in the vicinity of Lake Chelan. pending cliffs, who laugh with disdain at other He personally located the Copper Queen some invader than the eagle, the solemn glaciers, eight years since and now has added nine other with tread of stealthy approach; the great claims and has for all this time been pressing· rocks, the shimmering lake, the broad expanse, development work extensively. ·The properties the mighty falls, the fauna, the flora, all com• now show up most excellently and it is certain• bine to furnish rich, full and fresh entertain• ly expected that in a short time they will be ment and joy for every mood of the happy tour• added to the list of profitable shippers. ist who is so fortunate as to cast his lines in Adelbert L. Cool was born in Auburn, New this pleasant ·and inspiring region. The boom• York, on April rs, r858, the son of L. D. and ing of the mining blasts, as they echo and then Lucy B. (Cook) Cool, natives of New York. re-echo softly down to the hammock proclaim The paternal grandfather of our subject was how the sturdy prospector is already rending associated with the noted Daniel Boone in his the ribs of the rich Cascades. Mr. Field has sceond trip to Kentucky. The mother's grand• not been the last to make worthy endeavor in father was one of the earliest settlers of the this line and in addition to handling his sum• Mohawk valley in New York and served in the mer resort, he does mining· and prospecting·. Revolution during the dark clays when the pa• Merritt E. Field was born in \iVashington triots were fighting for the foundation stones of countx, Iowa, on Tune r862, the son of a grand nation. Being filled with the blood of Nathan G. and Esther S. (Call) Field, natives the patriotic ancestors, our subject, in every of Massachusetts, and now deceased. The way, is most strictly an American. He is an father was a physician. Three other children only child and has never yet seen fit to join his vvere born in the family, 'vVayne, Isabel Samp• bark to the great fleet which sails the matri• son, and Anna Grays. After receiving his edu• monial seas, being content with the quietness of cation in Iowa, our subject went to Colorado the celibatarian. The educ·ation .of Mr. Cool and raised stock until r88g. when he beg-an trav• was liberal, having completed a course in the eling, and in r892 landed in Chelan. He soon university at Syracuse, -New York. In r877, acquired property at the head of.the lake and just after leaving this institution, Mr. Cool erected the hotel mentioned, which he has oper• went to Chicago and there was bookkeeper for ated with great success since. a large firm in the stock yards, after '.vhich he In. r893, Mr. Field married Miss Martha went to Denver and became chief clerk in the