HERITAGE IN WALES Walkingl WINTER 2011 with princes, 11 saints and legends A circular walk around Nevern in Pembrokeshire — from the medieval castle and ancient crosses in the churchyard over the northern slopes of the Preselis to view sites spanning more than 5,000 years. Pentre Ifan Neolithic Burial Chamber (E) — Wales’s first scheduled ancient monument— is one of the highlights of this walk in northern Pembrokeshire he walk begins at Nevern the 1160s. William fitz Martin Nevern. The dedication suggests of Wales’s outstanding early TCastle (A), which is owned regained the castle in the that this may have been the Christian monuments. Its intricate by the community council and 1170s and he probably rebuilt location of an early monastery decoration and details of its has benefited from Cadw’s it in stone, using the local slate founded by the saint, but the construction show close parallels Welsh Cultural Heritage bonded with clay — a traditional existing building is late medieval, with the Carew Cross (the Initiative. Most of the site has Welsh building technique. much restored in 1864. inspiration for Cadw’s logo).Both been conserved and interpreted The Lord Rhys recaptured The Nevern Cross, which were probably produced by the for visitors after recent Nevern in 1191, and for a period stands in the churchyard, is one same artist in the second half of archaeological excavations (as in 1194 he was imprisoned reported in Heritage in Wales). there by his sons. The castle was The Norman, Robert fitz evidently destroyed by one of Martin, seized this part of the Lord Rhys’s sons in 1195 Pembrokeshire in the early to prevent its recovery by the twelfth century to create the Normans. Marcher lordship of Cemais. He A detour on the way down built an earth-and-timber castle to Nevern village will take you to here, perhaps on the site of the the ‘Pilgrims’ Cross’ (B). Carved llys, or court, of the local Welsh in relief on a rock face, it cannot prince. be dated, but there is a strong The Norman hold on Cemais tradition that it is associated with did not go unchallenged and the the medieval pilgrimage route great prince of Deheubarth, Rhys from Cardigan to St Davids. ap Gruffudd (d. 1197) — the The solid tower of St Lord Rhys — seems to have Brynach’s Church (C) appears The round tower on the motte at Nevern Castle (A) with one of the been in control of Nevern in on the left as you descend into new interpretation panels informed by recent archaeological discoveries HERITAGE IN WALES l WINTER 2011 The Pilgrims’ Cross (B) is linked The Nevern Cross (C) is one of Wales’s The College (D) at Felindre Farchog incorporates parts of an to the pilgrimage to St Davids outstanding early Christian monuments early seventeeth-century school the tenth or the early eleventh medieval. It continued in use until ceremonial and ritual centres and important local gentry family. century. 1976 and now serves as holiday statements in stone of territorial It may have been a gatehouse Nearby is a much older accommodation. control. or the main residence with a monument — the fifth-century On the open northern Lower down the flanks of courtyard beyond and preserves ‘Vitalianus Stone’, which is slopes of the Preseli range, the Preselis, the route enters a fine 10-bay timber roof. The inscribed in Latin and Ogam, your climb is rewarded with the ancient woodland of hostel is not open to the public, an early Irish alphabet. The views of Newport Bay and the T] Canol National Nature but pictures of the roof can be churchyard also boasts many summit of Carn Ingli, where Reserve. The entire area would viewed online at www.urdd.org/ more recent memorials and a St Brynach is said to have have been cloaked in forest pentreifan. celebrated ‘bleeding yew’. conversed with angels. Then during the Neolithic period Pentre Ifan was one of several A short walk brings you to you arrive at Cadw’s Pentre Ifan save, perhaps, for occasional important gentry houses in the the wooded valley of the river Burial Chamber (E), one of the clearings created by the early neighbourhood. Heading back to Nanhyfer, a place mentioned in best-known prehistoric sites in farming communities. Nevern, you pass the entrance the account of King Arthur’s hunt Wales — in 1884, it became the A pleasant walk through the to another, Trewern (not open to of the great magical boar, Twrch first monument in Wales to be woodland brings you to the public view), which was home to Trwyth, in the tale of ‘Culhwch accorded protection under the buildings of Pentre Ifan Farm the Warren family. and Olwen’ in the Mabinogion. Ancient Monuments Protection with a prominent former barn, Nearing the end of your walk, You emerge from the valley Act of 1882. now a hostel for the Welsh before you cross the river and at the village of Felindre Farchog. The Neolithic inhabitants of youth organisation, the Urdd (F). climb back up to Nevern Castle, At its eastern edge stands a the region constructed Pentre This impressive building, with its notice the well-built bridge (G) gabled building known as the Ifan 5–6,000 years ago. A long massive Tudor arches, was part of the late eighteenth or early College (D). Above the door a cairn of stones that would have of a mansion of the Bowens, an nineteenth century. plaque identifies it as LLYS-D} covered much of the chamber ARGLWYDDI CEMMAES and created a curving forecourt (Courthouse of the Lordship has long disappeared. The site of Cemmaes) and three date was excavated in 1936–37 stones — 1626, 1852 and 2000 and again in 1958–59, but few — provide clues to its history. artefacts were found and no The earliest came from a traces of burials. school that was begun by the Evidence from similar sites noted Pembrokeshire antiquary, suggests that Pentre Ifan would Sir George Owen (d.1613). have been a communal burial That building was incorporated place over a lengthy period. into the present Tudor Gothic Yet, archaeologists believe that structure, built in 1852 as a Neolithic tombs were much manorial court for Sir Thomas more than simple repositories Lloyd, Lord Marcher of Cemais for the remains of the dead; they The former barn at Pentre Ifan Farm (F) is all that survives of the and an enthusiast for things may also have been important Tudor mansion of the Bowen family walkINg WITH PRINCES, SAINTS AND LEgENDS © C © Reproduced by permission of Before you start rown copyright All rights 2011. reserved. A 1 Distance: 11.5km (7 ¼ miles) C Time: 4 ½ hours. B Maps: OS Explorer OL35. Nevern Walk o Start/Parking: Nevern is about 3km (2 miles) north-east G rd of Newport, Pembrokeshire, and is signposted off the nance Survey and on behalf of HMS A487. Drive into the village on the B4582. After passing o rd the Trewern Arms Inn, cross the bridge and take the first nance Survey Licence number 100021874 left. The road climbs and bends sharply to the right, and about 230 metres (250 yards) after the bend, there is D a lay-by on the right at the entrance to Nevern Castle 2 (grid reference SN 081401). A487 o . Nearest town: Newport. Cadw site: Pentre Ifan Burial Chamber — unstaffed 3 site, open 10am–4pm Terrain: Riverside and woodland paths, quiet lanes. This is 6 a moderately challenging walk. Some paths may be rocky or wet/muddy and there are some long climbs. On the F lanes, be alert for vehicles. Refreshment: Public Toilets: Behind Salutation Inn, Felindre Nevern Village Hall 5 Farchog Public Transport. Rail: Tel: 01239 820 564 Fishguard. Buses: 0 Metres 500 Trewern Arms Inn, Nevern Traveline Cymru — 0 Yards 500 Tel: 01239 820 395 Tel: 0870 6082608. 4 E Be sure that you have stout footwear and suitable clothing. Please follow the Countryside Code: www.countrysidecodewales.org.uk Route of the walk the College (D). Cross to the with a sign to T] Canol, and join a through woodland and clearings The Walk right-hand side of the road and wide metalled track. until it descends to a gate. (1) After visiting Nevern Castle continue on the wide verge. Immediately before the (5) Pass through the gate and bear (A), return to the road and turn Immediately before the track bears right at a bridleway left to a finger-post. Turn right on left. At a sharp bend in the road, road starts to climb steeply and finger-post, pass through a gateway the bridleway and follow it to the take a signposted path on the right just after a house, go right at a to the right of the track and keep buildings of Pentre Ifan Farm (F). to the ‘Pilgrims’ Cross’(B). finger-post and pass to the left of ahead to another finger-post. Join a metalled track that leads to Return to the road and a garage to join a bridleway that Go right to pass through a gate a road. continue downhill. At a T-junction, crosses a bridge over the river. and continue on a rocky, tree-lined (6) Turn left and continue, past the turn left and continue to St (3) Pass a house on the left, then track to reach the gated entrance entrance to Trewern mansion, until Brynach’s Church (C). bear left and go through a metal to T] Canol National Nature you reach a crossroads. Turn right, Return to the road and turn gate to join an enclosed grass Reserve.