VOLUME 14 NO. 23 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION OCTOBER 26 – NOVEMBER 1, 2018 VETERAN OWNED BUSINESS SUBMIT STORIES TO: [email protected] GUAM.STRIPES.COM FACEBOOK.COM/STRIPESPACIFIC FREE INSIDE INFO

GEORGE WASHINGTON TOPS GUAM HIGH PAGE 2

EXPLORING GUAM’S PLAZA DE ESPANA PAGE 14 BewareBeware ofof

VISITING ancientancient islandisland JAPAN VISITING JAPAN • KYOTO PAGES 16-18 • HIROSHIMA PAGES 19-20 spiritsspirits Page 6

Art courtesy of Guampedia

LESSONS YOUR CHILDREN LEARN FROM TRAVELING PAGE 23 TWO LOVERS POINT Pages 10-11

Photo courtesy of Marie N. Guerrero and Terry Debold, Two Lovers Point 2 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018

Max D. Lederer Jr. Publisher STARS AND STRIPES semifinal at George Washing- had four catches for just 26 Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic Published: Oct. 20, 2018 ton. yards, including the Pan- Commander Four long snaps sailed thers’ lone touchdown, along MANGILAO – Spe- Michael Davidson over the head of Pan- with 10 tackles. Revenue Director cial team errors and thers kickers, allow- Ruben Ramirez had 10 Marie Woods a slick, muddy turf Publishing and Media Design Director ing the Geckos to score tackles and one fumble re- made wet by week- three times by moving Chris Carlson long rain combined covery, and Evan Cavenell Publishing and Media Design Manager the ball just 28 yards, added seven tackles, four of to doom Guam helping George Monte Dauphin High in Oct. 20 them sacks. Guam Area Manager Washington beat island playoff With the win, the Geckos Kentaro Shimura Guam 27-6 at (6-1) advance to meet un- Production Manager Geckos Field. beaten Father Duenas (8-0) “We dug a Rie Miyoshi in the Oct. 27 Bamboo Bowl Member Services Manager hole that we championship game, site Ian Waddick couldn’t get and time to be determined. Publishing and Media Design Editor ourselves Publishing and Media Design Writers George Washingtonout of,” tops TheGuam Panthers (6-3) were Shoji Kudaka relegated for the fourth time Takahiro Takiguchi Panthers in six seasons to the Oct. 26 Layout Designers coach Jacob Ayako Kamio Dowdell said. Guam High’s Jalen Thach, left, third-place game at home Yukiyo Oda “Too many rook- struggles for yardage against a George against John F. Kennedy, 49- Yuko Okazaki Washington defender. Kayoko Shimoda ie mistakes that 21 losers to the Friars in the other semifinal played Oct. Multimedia Consultants killed us. At the Max Genao Doug Johnson end of the day, the and scored when lesser teams 19. Jason Lee Hans Simpson kids fought back would have given up.” “The two best teams will Chae Pang Yi Gianni Youn Robert Zuckerman Travon Jacobs was 9-for- play for the championship,” 30 for 70 yards and a touch- Graphic Designers Dowdell said. Kenichi Ogasawara Yosuke Tsuji down and rushed three times Sales Support for 25 yards. RaSean Jacobs Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa Guam HIgh quarterback Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro Travon Jacobs eludes Yoichi Okazaki Yusuke Sato George Washington Chae Yon Son Saori Tamanaha pressure and looks for Distributors room to run. Photos by Joe Guzman Donna Rhodes, Special to John Wesley Stripes EXCLUSIVE NEWS FROM:

For feedback and inquiries, contact [email protected] To place an ad, call 355-5160 guam.stripes.com/contact OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 3 4 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 Student vets winners as court unchains Obama loan protection

BY TOM PHILPOTT, D. Moss dismissed legal argu- DeVos and Trump administra- automatic forgiveness of bil- degree. Ngowaki said he as- SPECIAL TO STARS AND STRIPES ments from an association of tion attorneys. lions of dollars in federal student sumed his Post-9/11 GI Bill ben- for-profit colleges, which suc- In that case, two student- loans associated with failed for- efit would cover all costs so he undreds, perhaps thou- ceeded for more than a year to borrowers and a coalition of 19 profit colleges. resisted a push from DeVry’s sands, of student veter- block Obama administration states and the District of Co- Consumer advocacy groups financial aid office to complete a ans, despite having ro- H rules to bring financial relief to lumbia filed separate lawsuits for students, including veterans, financial aid application. Finally, bust GI Bill education benefits, to invalidate the department’s praised Moss’ recent rulings. he relented when told it was a re- contend they were deceived into defrauded student borrowers stay order on Obama loan rules, “It’s really positive news,” quirement for enrollment. racking up federal loan debt and to strengthen federal protec- which had been set to take ef- said Walter Ochinko, research Soon, he received a $5,000 through abusive practices of cer- tions against deceptive school practices. fect in July 2017. Moss called the director for Veterans Educa- check, which a woman in tain for-profit colleges. Trump team’s effort to protect tion Success (VES), an advocacy The Trump administration’s DeVry’s financial aid office said On Oct. 16 these students, for-profit schools, and to avoid group formed to protect veter- Department of Education also was grant money. “I kept telling along with thousands of non-vet- billions of dollars in loan forgive- ans and their education benefits had fought the Obama reforms her, ‘I don’t need the money,’ ” he erans, gained an easier path to ness for borrowers, “arbitrary from fraud and deceptive prac- loan forgiveness from a federal until a month ago when the same said. and capricious.” tices. By his third semester he got court ruling in Washington, D.C. judge rejected legal arguments Together the dual rulings The Obama rule went into a lender notice, and realized U.S. District Judge Randolph from Education Secretary Betsy force DeVos — who is still critical effect at noon Oct. 16 and is to he was $15,000 in debt with di- of the Obama rules, saying they be implemented immediately. rect federal student loans. The are too expansive — to imple- “But the devil is in the details,” money made life easier but he ment them even as her depart- Ochinko said. The judge didn’t didn’t need it for education costs, ment prepares more stringent give the department detailed in- Ngowaki said, and ordered the regulations. Given the statutory structions on how to implement loan arrangement stopped. schedule for rulemaking, the De- the many provisions. Vos rules can’t take effect before “It’s so easy for an adminis- Ngowaki’s theory is that July 2020, the department con- tration that doesn’t want to im- DeVry wasn’t confident, as the firmed. That creates a window plement something not to do it,” Post-9/11 GI Bill began, whether for borrowers with loan debt said Ochinko. “We’ll just have to student payments would arrive tied to fraudulent or deceptive see how it plays out. … Advocacy on schedule. Perhaps to ensure schools to apply for relief under groups will be watching very steady cash flow it pushed stu- more liberal rules in effect from closely.” dent veterans into federal loans. the Oct. 16 court decision. He contends the processing of DeVry in time helped Ngowaki The department likely must borrower defense claims by the with some debt, he said, but most update information on filing bor- department “grounded to a halt” of the $15,000 he repaid himself. rower defense claims. Here’s during the first half of Trump Whether and how the new reg- a link to what’s available now: administration, a slowdown ulations might deliver more loan https://studentaid.ed.gov/sa/re- that can’t entirely be blamed on relief to a veteran like Ngowaki pay-loans/forgiveness-cancella- having old rules in place. But is still unclear, Ochinko said. tion/borrower-defense Tuesday’s court ruling creates Many student veterans end Obama’s Education Depart- “a window of opportunity that’s up needing loans because they ment designed its rules to bet- going to last until July 2020 to haven’t served long enough on ter protect student borrowers apply for loan forgiveness under active duty to qualify for full against misleading and preda- terms much more favorable to Post-9/11 GI Bill benefits. The tory practices by postsecondary the student than if the [DeVos al- loans become bad investments institutions; to clarify a process ternative] had gone into effect.” if for-profit schools close or for federal loan forgiveness in The Department of Education don’t provide promised degrees cases of institutional miscon- has been criticized in the past or transferable credits or if em- duct; to allow group actions to for not doing enough to inform ployers don’t view the degrees as replace thousands of individual students about borrower defense desirable. loan forgiveness claims, and to claims. The number of student One attorney for student hold for-profit colleges account- veterans who might be eligible plaintiffs who helped unleash able for harmful practices. isn’t known, Ochinko said. The the Obama rules, Adam R. Pul- The department decided VES data base holds 4,000 com- ver, said an Obama change re- its 20-year-old regulation on plaints of deceptive practices by sisted by for-profit schools bans so-called “borrower defense for-profits schools. them from requiring students to claims” needed updating after a “Certainly, many of those vet- accept arbitration in settling all deluge of claims from students erans will be eligible,” he said. complaints. with federal loans following “How many have applied [al- “It’s been pretty much exclu- closure of a mega for-profit en- ready] I don’t know.” sive to for-profit schools that to terprise, Corinthian Colleges, in As part of the Forever GI Bill enroll you have to sign an agree- April 2015. The 1995 regulation, law enacted in August 2017, vet- ment to arbitrate all disputes,” officials found, lacked detail on erans who used Post-9/11 GI Bill and the agreements often state how students should submit and benefits at for-profit schools that how the department should adju- suddenly closed, leaving them that students “can’t file a class dicate a tsunami of loan relief re- with worthless credits or de- action lawsuit,” said Ochinko. quests. The old rule also limited grees, have seen those education “The problems of for-profit eligibility for loan forgiveness to benefits restored. schools would have come to light borrowers in default. The new Education Depart- a lot sooner had people been able Obama officials released their ment rules provide additional to sue.” final regulations in November protections. One key feature Another key feature of the 2016. They were to take effect of the Obama rules will allow Obama rules would require for- the following July but the Cali- certain borrower defense ap- profit schools facing financial fornia Association of Postsec- plicants not only to have loan risk to show a letter of credit and ondary Schools filed a lawsuit balances forgiven but be reim- to make cash deposits with the to block them. A supportive De- bursed for loan amounts already Education Department as they Vos quickly announced that she paid. That might be relevant for set off various financial respon- would block the Obama rules someone like former Marine Sgt. sibility alarms, so taxpayers are and prepare new ones to reflect Jonathan Ngowaki. not as deeply exposed by loan concerns of for-profit schools He enrolled in DeVry Univer- claims when for-profit schools and to protect taxpayers from sity in 2010 seeking a business fail. OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 5 6 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 EERIE REAL. . DEATH HAUNTS OF GUAM STRIPES GUAM

nlike many U.S. mili- the hus- tary bases in the Pacific band sent Theater, there seems to U his wife to get him be a dearth of “haunted” build- fresh mountain stream ings or other places at Andersen water during a storm, Air Force Base and Naval Base and she slipped into the Guam that make for ghostly gos- river and drowned. sip or “mystery tours” during the Today, it is said the if you Halloween season. But there is at drive over the Maina bridge least one exception. during a new moon and look It is said that the store at Na- val Base Guam is located where out into the night, you may a hospital and morgue once stood see a ghostly figure wear- during and after World War II. ing a long white flowing Workers have claimed to hear dress like a bridal gown. She footsteps and children’s voices, has silver hair and sad red eyes. and one heard noises from a toi- There are more “sightings” when let stall, but no one ever left the a big storm is approaching. restroom. Off base, there are Chamorros call her the “White Lady,” and she warns of impend- The Old Spanish Bridge in Agat, similar to this one in Hagatna, is said to be haunted by the daughter of a Spanish official more sites subject to such spine- who had her Chamorro lover killed to prevent them from marrying. tingling tales. ing danger. She can be seen at One of these is the Old Span- Two Lover’s Point, Harmon if you look in the rearview mir- ish Bridge in Agat, which is said Heights and the Fonte River. ror, though, one soldier has no to be haunted by the daughter of Government House in Agana head. But if you turn around to a Spanish official who wanted to Heights is another such place. glance back, they disappear. marry a local Chamorro boy. The There are reports of the heavy The Hotel Nikko Guam in Tu- pair often met at the bridge. double doors of a building con- mon is said by some to be built Her father could not accept nected to Government House on top of an old Chamorro cem- her marrying a “native” so when opening noisily and the footsteps etery, and it’s believed the spirits he heard they had made wed- of someone walking along the of those buried there can be seen ding plans, he arranged to have hallway being heard. Supposedly, and heard throughout the hotel. the boy killed. In despair, the girl if you look at the door when it is And at the old Agana Hospital drowned herself, and is said to be open, it will slam shut. in Agana Heights, photos have seen by the bridge crying, while Two soldiers from World War apparently been taken of figures trying to find her lover. II apparently walk near the Leo said to be ghosts. In another story, a Spanish of- Palace Hotel in Talofofo during ficer and his Chamorro wife lived the hours of midnight to 4 a.m. Sources: www.shadowlands.net/ in Maina in the late 1600s. It is said that you can see them, places/guam.html and ns.gov.gu/ After their love had faded, in uniform, walking side by side, legends/whiteland.html

Latte stones, like these in Hagatna, were used as building supports by ancient Chamorros. They are also thought to be where “taotaomona,” ghostly spirits of the ancient people of Guam, live. Beware of ancient island spirits pirits are part and parcel of local Chamorro culture here on Guam, and as would be expected – they’re not always nice. S One traditional Chamorro belief is in the existence of “taotaomona,” or the people before recorded time, who are the re- spected spirits of the ancient inhabitants of the island. They are said to live in the jungles, caves and mountains of Guam, especial- ly in the southern part, as well as inside banyan trees and around ancient latte ruins. It is believed that they can cause bad things to happen if they are offended, so more “traditional” Chamorros say you must re- quest permission from the taotaomona before entering the jungle or taking plants, fruit or wood from it. This may be based on the respectful nature of Chamorro cul- ture, which extends to those who have died. Some taotaomona are said to be malicious, while others are said to be kind and aid local shamans, who are called “suruhanos” (male) or “suruhanas” (female). If a taotaomona attaches itself to a person and makes them sick, only a suruhano can force the spirit to leave via a kind of exorcism. The taotaomona also apparently dislike pregnant women, and Chamorro women with child are told to use perfume to mask their scent or to wear their husband’s clothing, as well as to stay indoors at night.

Source: Wikipedia, guam.org.gu OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 7

aving grown up when candies, some neighbors contraption to brace his legs or kids roamed freely weren’t willing to shell out spine. H while parents smoked for full-sized Zagnuts, so they The Meat and Getting chopped up in an Salems, wore belted vests, handed out more economical outboard motor, locked in an ate pimento cheese and ad- but boring fruit — the perfect abandoned refrigerator or justed console televisions, my hiding place for razor blades, Potatoes of Life having an arm ripped off by upbringing was undoubtedly according to our parents. Ap- a passing car. Although we different than my children’s. parently, the razor blade threat never knew people who had Without a 24/7 supply of in- is an urban myth and the real Lisa Smith Molinari suffered these fates, grown ternet information, my hopes, danger was trick-or-treaters ups told us that, if we weren’t dreams and fears were based coming back to toilet paper Past horrors that no longer scarecareful, kids these things might on my imagination, influenced the houses of the fruit-giving happen. We couldn’t Google to by what others told me and cheapskates. people weren’t as conscien- fact check their claims and ac- what I saw in movies, televi- Hitchhikers. Hitchhiking tious about vet care back then, cepted them as fact. sion and comic books. used to be a relatively safe so getting worms was a real People with tattoos. Today, Ask my kids what scares mode of transportation, but possibility for barefoot kids. it’s normal to see a mom push- them, and they’d tell you disturbing stories circulated When I didn’t heed her warn- ing a stroller with roses tat- ghosts, zombies, basements, at summer camp and slum- ings, I was punished with a tooed around her bicep. But in evil clowns, serial killers and ber parties about murderous my day, with the exception of shopping mall Santas. Pretty hitchers. I never saw “Texas few bee stings, but never got military men, it was assumed standard. But I feared a lot Chainsaw Massacre,” and my worms. Aside from the revolt- Ask my kids what that people with tattoos had suf- more as a child, including: brother-in-law rode the D.C. ing thought of poo squishing fered some misfortune in life Quicksand. In the 20th cen- slug lines without incident for scares them, and between my toes, the fear of that compelled them to become tury, we believed that while years, but hitchhikers were parasites feeding on my in- they’d tell you dangerous deviants, probably poking around in the woods we creepy nonetheless. nards had me steering clear of carrying switchblades. might inadvertently sink into Stepping in poo. When I ghosts, zombies, piles. Being a kid used to be pretty a lethal pit of quicksand and grew up, it was everywhere. Any disease requiring a basements, evil scary. But nowadays, children meet an agonizing death. Why? People let their dogs roam just large brace, an iron lung, can safely munch their fun- Because this happened to ac- like the kids. No one picked up clowns, serial killers shock treatments or a lobot- sized candy bars and dream of tors in just about every tele- dog poo, except big brothers omy. Sure, needles aren’t fun. and shopping mall their first (or second) tattoo, vision show and movie of our who speared it with sticks to But I’d take a shot in the arm knowing that helicopter par- time, including “The Incred- chase little sisters. (Trust me.) Santas. Pretty any day to the diseases that ents, pharmaceuticals and the ible Hulk,” “The Six Million There were no signs with bag we faced as kids. Vaccinations standard. But I feared internet will protect them. Dollar Man,” “Scooby Doo,” dispensers reading “Pick up were new, so we heard real Now that’s scary. “Indiana Jones,” “Johnny after your pet!” Dog poo was a a lot more as a child. cases of polio, mumps, measles Read more of Lisa Smith Molinari’s Quest” and “Gilligan’s Island.” fact of life, and stepping in it your flip flops or you’ll get and chicken pox, and the ru- columns at: worms!” my mother used to mors of treatments were terri- Razor blades in Hallow- was a real danger. Which leads themeatandpotatoesoflife.com een treats. Before the ad- me to the next terror ... bellow between puffs of her fying. Plus, we all knew a kid at Email: meatandpotatoesoflife@ vent of economical “fun sized” Getting worms. “Put on Tareyton 100. Apparently, school who wore a humongous googlemail.com 8 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 9 Guam ‘Port Dawgs’ refine combat skills

MASTER SGT. THEANNE HERRMANN, The fast-paced course pro- said Maj. Brian Eich- 624TH REGIONAL SUPPORT GROUP vides Airmen with the skills, ers, a 27th APS op- knowledge and abilities nec- erations officer from JOINT BASE PEARL HAR- essary to perform in a hostile Minneapolis, Minne- BOR-HICKAM, Hawaii – Air environment while allowing sota, who attended Force Reserve air transporta- the course. “All of tion specialists from the 44th freedom of movement on the the instructors re- Aerial Port Squadron in Guam battlefield. peatedly comment- participated in the Fieldcraft “I had the pleasure of work- ed on their positive Hostile Course Sept. 17-28 at ing with seven Airmen from Members of the Air Force Reserve’s 44th Aerial Port Squadron based out of Andersen Air Force attitudes.” Joint Base McGuire-Dix-Lake- Guam and they were definitely Base, participated in the Fieldcraft Hostile Course Sept. 17-28 at Joint Base McGuire-Dix- Out of the 28 stu- Lakehurst, New Jersey. Courtesy photo hurst, New Jersey. the shining stars of the class,” dents, 44th mem- bers earned the two end-of-course awards; Tech. GPS navigation. nearby sites, such Sgt. Charles Hinkle for best at- “As always our ‘Port Dawgs’ as the De Oppresso Liber statue titude, and Senior Airman Mat- did an exceptional job,” said in Liberty Park, New York. thew Mira for unofficial class Lt. Col. Carla Lugo, 44th APS The 44th APS, which is part leader. commander. “I’m thrilled to be of the 624th Regional Support The students participated in a commander of a team that Group, deploys qualified per- realistic and strenuous training excels in their career field, and sonnel to provide air terminal scenarios used to teach skills is recognized by leadership for operations worldwide in sup- in weapons firing, communica- their professionalism.” port of contingency operations, tions, mounted and dismounted The team also had an oppor- exercises, unit moves, and for- individual and team move- tunity to decompress after hours eign humanitarian relief or di- ments, and map, compass, and from training by checking out saster operations.

Fatty: I’m about as handsome as they get! My fine feline self is 2 years old and looking for a loving home to call my own. 10 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 Two Lovers Point TWO LOVERS POINT Love, fun & shopping BY ANNE JING PING WEN, daughter’s father decided to marry her daughter to STRIPES GUAM a powerful, arrogant Spanish captain. When the girl discovered this, she ran from her house and wandered ne of the first legends taught to along the north shore. children is the story of the two In her loneliness, she met a handsome Chamorro lovers. Growing up on Guam, man from a modest family. The two fell in love, shar- Ofew have not visited the famous ing their thoughts and desires. When the father of the Two Lovers Point. But did you know the girl learned of the secret affection, he demanded his landmark offers more than a nice sun- daughter marry the Spanish captain at once. That day, set view of Guam? the daughter left home to meet her lover, and together, they visited the high point where they had first met The legend of Pun- and watched the stars. When the father father discovered that his daugh- tan Dos Amantes ter was gone, he told the captain that his daughter had When Spain ruled Guam, a been kidnapped by the Chamorro boy. The father, the proud family lived in Aga- captain and all the Spanish soldiers pursued the lov- na, the capital city. The ers up to the high cliff above Tumon Bay. father was a wealthy The couple stood at the very edge of the cliff and Spanish aristocrat, and knotted their hair. They stared deep into each other’s the mother was the eyes and finally, kissed goodbye. Then they lept off the daughter of a Cham- deep cliff into roaring waves. orro chief. Their When the father looked over the edge, all he saw was beautiful daugh- the floating hair of the lovers. He regretted his choice, ter was honest but his daughter was lost. Since that day, Chamorros FOR and modest, revere the jutting peak by Tumon Bay. Visitors honor her charm so real love at Two Lovers Point. natural and LOVERS impres- sive. Visiting the park One Two Lovers Point (i.e., Puntan Dos Amantes) is day, Guam’s most famous landmark. Annually, the attrac- the tion welcomes 500,000 visitors to its park, and nearly 360-400,000 people to the lookout, according to public relations and sales member Terry Debold. The terraza, is the newest feature at Guam’s most famous landmark. “Because of the terraza (terrace), we are finding a lot of people up in the evening for the happy hour, just to relax in the evening,” Debold said. “It is a nice open air terraza to feel the island atmosphere.” Tourist arrivals determine customer visits to Two Lovers Point. In the recent years, Guam has seen steady increases in Korean arrivals. Likewise, Korean dialects are heard around the park. “A majority of tourists that visit Guam are from the neighboring Asian countries; most of them are going to visit Two Lovers Point at some point in their vis- it,” Debold remarked. “It’s almost like going to Paris and the Eiffel Tower or going to Tokyo and seeing the Tokyo Tower.” OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 11

FOOD What to know TEL: +1 671-647-4107 HOURS: 7 a.m. - 7 p.m. ADDRESS: • Puntan Dos Amantes (Two Lovers Point) Harmon Cliffline overlooking Tumon Bay Harmon, Guam (Off of Route 1, Marine Corps Drive across Micronesia Mall) EMAIL: [email protected] URL: www. puntandosamantes.com/ PRICE: $2 More- (Military Discounts: $1 off regular admission) to help with the heat. over, mili- Whether you tour tary person- • $150 wedding arrangements: the park or the outlook, nel make up a 30-min usage of upper deck, consider the location an large component complimentary cider toast, option for a wedding venue. of monthly visitors. For $150, you are entitled to The landmark attracts 10 invited guests 30 minutes to the upper deck, 10 anywhere from 500-1000 invited guests, and a complimentary military and dependents on a cider toast. What better location to tie monthly basis. For a special mili- the knot than Two Lovers Point? tary rate ($2 admission), service “We have a lot of weddings because it’s con- members can view the lookout and venient. It’s easy to reserve, and it’s very afford- all of Tumon. able,” Debold said. “We will get military personnel “We have a lot of military person- who are stationed in Japan, Korea, and all these plac- nel that come here, but they also bring es that want to get married on American soil. We are their family members from the main- the nearest American soil, so then they’ll contact us. land here,” Debold said. They’ll come here for two, three days, and we’ll make At the lookout, one can see a “Lady on all their arrangements for the wedding.” the Cliff” on the right and a “Man on the Wedding couples, and visitors alike, Sand” on the left. The cliff line’s rock for- can ring the “Love Bell.” - a smaller sis- mation creates a lady’s profile; a head and a face jut ter city bell found in the upper deck. In out from the cliff. On the left corner, one can see its Kashiwazaki and Niigata, Japan, the counterpart: Man on the Sand. Most people who come exact bell is seen in three cities, all of to the landmark hardly notice its features, but after which are Two Lovers Points. snapping a photo, the profile becomes noticeable. Ac- “In Asian cultures, there is a strong GOOD cording to Debold, the left side of the lookout is the belief that if you go to these places, it is only place on island where one can take a panoramic a power spot,” Debold said. “Two Lovers VIEW view of Tumon. is unquestionably a power spot in the minds The park has three distinct features: the Dos Aman- of various tourists that come to Guam. tes statue, the Terraza, and the Gift Shop. They believe there is a power here that The Dos Amantes statue was re-installed in 2015. can help your love be eternal. After destruction from the winds of Typhoon Pong- Whether you are a local or a tour- sona, bits and pieces were thrown into scrap fields. ist visiting Guam, jog from Tumon According to Debold, the resurrection of the statue or bike down the wide roads to represents the lasting bond between the two lovers; Two Lovers Point. The power they were meant to be. spot pays homage to eter- In the Terraza, friendly waitresses greet you as nal love and reflects traditional music plays in the background. The new Guam in its entire- wooden structure offers a view of Guam’s sandy ty: a tropical beaches and relieves people from the scorching sun. paradise. This year, the Terraza will also host its first October Fest. On Sunday evenings, visit the park for a light beer festival. When one is in need of air-conditioning, the gift shop offers a solution. Local crafts cover the tables, and souvenirs line the walls. Im- mediately outside, vendors sell refreshing mango smooth- ies and coconut juice

Photos courtesy of Marie N. Guerrero and Terry Debold, Two Lovers Point 12 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 13 14 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018

Boonie Stomps Plaza de Guam Espana INFORMATION PROVIDED BY GUAM BOONIE STOMPERS

Canuon River Every Saturday, Guam Boonie Stompers offers public hikes to a variety of destinations such as beaches, snorkeling sites, Exploring Guam’s waterfalls, mountains, caves, latte sites, and World War II sites. We meet at 9:00 AM in the Center Court of Chamorro Village in Hagatna. The cost is $2.00 for hikers over 12. Children must be accompanied by a responsible adult. Hikers Plaza de Espana should provide their own transportation. Guam’s trails are not developed. Weather conditions can make the hikes more STORY AND PHOTOS BY replaced by the Kiosko) and a Governor of Guam) surren- ANNE JING PING WEN, badminton court. dered the island to invading difficult than described. No reservations required. STRIPES GUAM For more information: Inside the complex includes Japanese forces. a Chocolate House, the prima- The Plaza then became the www.facebook.com/GuamBoonieStompersInc hose looking to experi- or call 787-4238. ry location in which Spanish seat of Japanese occupation ence Guam’s history and American administrators but was extensively damaged need not look further T entertained their guests. The during the American shelling than the capital of Hagatna. October 27 Difficult Chocolate House also contained of Agana. After the American One of the island’s most fa- San Carlos 4 hours for 3 miles two of the oldest Spanish coat of liberation, existing structures mous landmarks, Plaza de arms on island, dating back to were repaired, but an extensive Espana, represents the Span- We journey to a picturesque 40 foot waterfall with a great 1879 and 1895. restoration project did not oc- ish occupation of Guam, and swim hole. Then we follow a beautiful pristine jungle Historically, the Plaza de cur until 1980. features several original struc- river to a smaller waterfall with good ledges for jumping, Espana has undergone major The Plaza de Espana sur- tures dating back three centu- swimming, eating lunch, and relaxing. physical change. In 1885, Gov- vived the Spanish, American, ries. Bring: 3 quarts water, get wet shoes, swimsuit, gloves, ernor Don Enrique Solano re- and post-war governments, and sun screen, insect repellent, lunch, and camera. Located across the Guam placed the original palace with today hosts the inauguration of Special conditions: Steep slopes, walking in water, Museum and next to the Dulce a larger building. new governors. A weekend trip mud, rocky slippery river walking, and climbing down Nombre de Maria Cathedral Then World War II hit. will easily give you a sense of with a rope. Basilica, the Plaza de Espana From the Plaza, Captain the monument’s place in world complex is rich in history and George J. McMillin (then Naval history. key to Guam’s civic activities. November 3 Difficult Originally constructed in Canuon River 5 hours for 3 miles 1736, the original name, Pla- za de Magalahes, was later We explore a tributary of the Tarzan River, hiking up the changed to Plaza de Espana. river in a deep gorge with huge boulders to hike over, During the Spanish occupa- under and around, rock formations, waterfalls, and tion, the main structure in the small swimming pools. complex was known as Casa Bring: 3 quarts water, waling in water shoes, Govierno, meaning Governor’s gloves, swimsuit, sun screen, lunch, and Palace. camera. Since Spanish rule, the Plaza Special conditions: Hiking over Boonie Stomps rough rocks, walking in the de Espana has played slippery river, possible 10 an important role in overgrown trail, some subsequent govern- ments. During the sword grass. Complete to earn a BoonieT-Shirt! Stomp Naval Administra- Stomp Tip: tion, it became the 1) Alcohol and hiking do not mix. headquarters of the Ameri- 2) Do not bring beverages with caffeine on hikes. can government and the official Chocolate House 3) Bring plenty of water with you on hikes. residence of the Naval Gover- 4) Do not hike alone and let someone know where you are going and your return time. nor. Later expansions included 5) Always carry a well stocked personal first aid kit. a baseball field (now 6) When hiking, lots of little snacks are better than one big meal

Guam Boonie Stompers is a non-profit Guam corporation composed of volunteer leaders committed to leading hikes to and protecting the unique destinations on our island. OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 15 16 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018

KYOTOOff-the-beaten-path

STORY AND PHOTOS BY SARAH HODGE, ADDRESS: Higashitamamizucho Shimojuzuyamachidori Ainomachi Higashi Iru, Shimogyo-ku, Kyo- STRIPES GUAM to-shi, Kyoto Prefecture HOURS: March – Oct.: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. (last entry at 4:30 p.m.) Nov. – Feb.: 9 a.m. – 4 p.m. (last entry at 3:30 p.m.) yoto, Japan’s imperial capital for more than a millennium, offers a URL: www.higashihonganji.or.jp/english/tour/shosei-en/ wealth of picturesque temples, museums, and gardens, but with mil- K lions of international visitors a year, many of Kyoto’s “must-see” desti- nations like Kiyomizudera, Kinkakuji, Gion, and Arashiyama are thronged with school groups and tour buses nearly year-round. FUREAIKAN (Kyoto Museum of To experience a more tranquil side of Kyoto, venture off the beaten path and Traditional Crafts) Higashiyama you’ll be rewarded with stunning Japanese gardens, a magical kimono “forest,” This gem, tucked in the basement of Miyako Messe near Heian Shrine, fea- and the chance to try your hand at traditional stencil dyeing and tea ceremony tures displays and demonstrations of some of Kyoto’s famed crafts like Kyo- sweets. yuzen dying, Nishijin-ori woven textiles, Kyoto ceramics, lacquerware and dolls. In addition to being a great place to pick up affordable and unique sou- venirs, Fureaikan also has real maiko-san (apprentice geishas) who give free SHOSEI-EN Kyoto Station area dance performances, short talks about their traditional kimonos and accesso- One of Kyoto’s best-kept secrets is this beautiful 8-acre garden down the ries, and great up-close-and-personal photo opportunities. Normally it is quite street from Kyoto Station. Shosei-en has belonged to nearby Higashi Honganji expensive to book a private event with maiko-san, so the opportunity to meet temple since 1641, when it was donated by Japan’s third shōgun Tokugawa and photograph them (for free, no less!) is extremely rare. For a current sched- Iemitsu. This peaceful oasis features traditional villas and teahouses, several ule of Fureaikan maiko performances, go to www.miyakomesse.jp/fureaika/ ponds and bridges, and best of all, relatively few visitors. The garden was event_eng.php#01= destroyed by fire on several occasions, so the present structures are 19th century reconstructions. Notable features include a unique ceremonial gate ACCESS: •By bus: City Bus 5, 100 from Kyoto Station, get off at “Higashi- and covered bridge. Shosei-en is surrounded by a high wall and the entrance yama Nijo,Okazaki Koen-guchi” bus stop or “Okazaki Koen/Bijutsukan,Heian Jingu-mae” bus stop or “Okazaki Koen/ROHM Theatre,Miyakomesse” bus is easy to miss. Admission: 500 yen, includes a beautifully-photographed full- stop •By Subway: Higashiyama Station (Tozai Line) about 10minutes’ walk. color booklet of the gardens. ADDRESS: B1F Miyakomesse, 9-1, Okazaki Seishoji-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto- shi, Kyoto Prefecture

Sanzenin Sanzenin OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 17

Ohara

Kyoto

HOURS: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. ADMISSION: Free TEL: +81 75-762-2670 English audio guide for smartphone: www.musenavi.jp/supports/fureaikan/index_en.html URL: www.miyakomesse.jp/fureaika/index_eng.php

SANZENIN Ohara One of western Kyoto’s top attractions is Kokedera (Saihō-ji), famed for its beautiful moss gardens. However, visiting Kokedera requires making an advance reservation by special postcard; even then, a spot is not guaranteed, especially during peak seasons. Sanzenin in nearby Ohara (about one hour north of Kyoto) offers a similarly gorgeous moss garden with no reservations required. Green tea and a seasonal sweet is available for 500 yen; it’s worth the price to sip and savor as you look out over magnificent Shuhekien Gar- den. Several nearby temples offer additional Japanese gardens and fantastic photo ops. Ohara is famous for the red shiso leaf used in Japanese pickling, and you can try akajiso soft serve at many roadside stands leading to Sanzenin. To reach Sanzenin, from Kyoto Station take the Karasuma subway line to terminal station Kokusaikaikan Station (20 minutes, 290 yen), then catch Kyoto Bus number 19 to Ohara (20 minutes, 350 yen, every 40 minutes). From the Ohara bus station, the temple is about a 10-min- ute walk and is clearly marked.

ADDRESS: 540 Ohara Raikoin-cho, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto Prefecture HOURS: March through Dec. 7 8:30 a.m. - 5:30 p.m. (Entry closes at 5 p.m.) Dec. 8 through Feb. 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. (Entry closes at 4:30 p.m.) ADMISSION: 700 yen TEL: +81 75-744-2531 URL: sanzenin.or.jp/en/ FB: www.facebook.com/kyotooharasanzenin/ SEE KYOTO ON PAGE 18 Shosei-en

Shosei-en Shosei-en 18 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018

Kanshundo Kyogashi Workshop

KYOTO: Try a Japanese workshop CONTINUED FROM PAGE 17 KIMONO FOREST Arashiyama MARUMASU-NISHIMURAYA Private railway Keifuku renovated their Randen KYO-YUZEN WORKSHOP KANSHUNDO KYOGASHI Arashiyama station in 2013 to include 600 Plexiglas Karasuma Oike WORKSHOP Arashiyama pillars lined with Kyoto’s prized Kyo-yuzen kimono textiles. During the day, the colorful fabrics make Kyo-yuzen, the technique of painting dye directly This sixth-generation confectionary shop offers for a pleasant stroll. At night, the pillars are illumi- onto cloth, has been practiced in Kyoto since the hands-on classes on how to make the beautiful re- nated and the details of the prints shine in the dark- 17th century and allows for incredibly detailed de- alistic sweets served during the Japanese tea cer- ness, making for truly magical photos. An energy spot signs and color gradients. emony. Using ingredients such as rice flour and featuring a small pond with a dragon is said to grant To try your hand at Kyo-yuzen, you can sign up for bean paste, you’ll learn to make four different sea- wishes. There is also a fantastic hot spring footbath a fun, informative hands-on workshop at Marumasu- sonal sweets that you can take home. Demonstra- that allows you to soak away the day’s sightseeing for Nishimuraya. You’re able to choose your design from tion is in Japanese, but English-language recipes only 200 yen; purchase a ticket and receive a towel many available stencils, then you apply the dye di- with photos are provided. Advance registration in the station’s tourist information office. Randen rectly to the object of your choosing (tote bag, fabric required. After class, be sure to visit nearby Jodo- Arashiyama station also offe rs several coffee shops, fan, etc.) in layers to create beautiful three-dimen- sect temple Seiryoji for some fantastic photo ops restaurants, and souvenir shops as well as electrical- sional images. This is a great activity for families or around the temple grounds and gardens. ly-assisted bicycle rentals for only 1,500 yen a day, when the weather is less than cooperative. Prices range from 1300 yen for a small handker- ACCESS: JR Saga Line, 10 minutes on foot from Arashiyama sta- making it a convenient way to explore the Arashiya- tion ma / Sagano area. chief to 3000 yen for a colored fan. Same-day reser- ADDRESS: 1-1 Sagashakadodaimoncho Ukyo-Ku, Kyoto-shi, vations available; duration is 1-3 hours. There is also Kyoto Prefecture ACCESS: Take Karasuma Subway Line from Kyoto Station, transfer at a small café available onsite. ADMISSION: 2160 yen / 1 person, 3-4 days advance reservation Shijo Station to Hankyu Karasuma Station, transfer to Hankyu Omiya required. There are three classes a day, approximate length 1 Station, then catch the tram at Randen Shijo-Omiya Station. ACCESS: From Kyoto Station, board a subway bound for Kokusai- hour 15 minutes: HOURS: Randen Arashiyama station shop / restaurant hours: 9 a.m. Kaikan. Get off at Karasuma Oike station, then walk west (takes ① 11 a.m. - 12:15 p.m. – 8 p.m. about 7 min.) ② 1 p.m, - 2:15 p.m. Arashiyama Station Onsen Footbath: 9 a.m. – 8 p.m. (6 p.m. in winter) ADDRESS: 457 Tsuboya-cho, Ogawa-dori, Oike-sagaru, Nakagyo- ③ 3 p.m. - 4:15 p.m. Ranbura Cycle Rental: 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. (reception open until 3 p.m.) ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto Prefecture TEL: +81 75-861-5488 Kimono Forest lightup: evening – 9 p.m. HOURS: 9 a.m. – 7 p.m. (last entry 5 p.m.) URL: www.kanshundo.co.jp/museum/make/annai_e.htm ADMISSION: flat-rate 220 yen (adults) / 110 yen (children) TEL: +81 75-211-3273 Online reservations: www.kanshundo.co.jp/museum/make/ URL: randen.keifuku.co.jp/en/ URL: marumasu.sakura.ne.jp/english/ school-e.html Downloadable map: randen.keifuku.co.jp/ EMAIL: [email protected] common/image/train/pdf/randenmap_en.pdf

Kimono Forest OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 19 20 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 Courtesy of Gayle Yoshikawa 1945

HIROSHIMA ‘City of Water’ praying for peace

BY TAKAHIRO TAKIGUCHI, STRIPES GUAM A QUICK LOOK ith a population of nearly 1.2 million, Hiroshima LOCATION: Hiroshima is the largest city in the Chugoku region of West- City, Hiroshima ern Honshu. It is often called “The City of Water,” W Prefecture (one- as six large rivers flow through the center of city. With the hour drive from rivers and countless bridges over them, along with various MCAS Iwakuni) fountains and water monuments, this city is very impres- AREA: 224,000 acre sive and is only an hour drive from Marine Corps Air Station POPULATION: 1,186,655 Iwakuni. ATTRACTIONS: Genbaku This city, however, is known first and foremost as the first (A-Bomb) Dome, city in human history to suffer atomic devastation. Peace Memorial On the morning of Aug. 6, 1945, a B-29 flew over Hiro- Park, Peace shima and cut dropped a four-ton bomb code-named Little Memorial Museum, Peace Memorial Hall for the Boy at 8:15 a.m. The bomb exploded above the center of the Atomic Bomb Victims, Hiroshima Castle city. As a result, most of the city was wiped out and more URL: www.hiroshima-navi.or.jp/en/ than 140,000 people were killed. TEL: 082-247-6916 On a recent walk through the streets of today’s Hiroshi- (Hiroshima Convention and ma, I could hardly link this beautiful city to such devastation Visitors Bureau) 70 years ago.

n Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park Located within the park are various attractions. They in- Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park is the key site in terms clude the Memorial Cenotaph and the Peace Flame, Gen- of sightseeing around the city. This 30-acre park situated be- baku (A-bomb) Dome, Peace Memorial Museum, Peace At the time this photo was taken August 6, 1945, smoke billowed 20,000 feet above Hiroshima while tween the Otagawa and Motoyasugawa rivers is accessible Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims, International smoke from the burst of the first atomic bomb had by the T-shaped Aioi Bridge. The uniquely shaped bridge Convention Center, the Peace Bell and the Children’s spread over 10,000 feet on the target at the base of was the target used to drop the A-Bomb because it was so Peace Monument. the rising column. National Archives/MCT easily recognizable from the air. When I entered, I saw a lot of visitors walking up to

+81 (3) 5441-9800 OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 21 2015

Photo by Takiguchi Takahiro

the Memorial Cenotaph in the center of park. It was as if they been consumed on the spot by a 12,632-degree Fahrenheit atomic were on a pilgrimage. They would stop at the Cenotaph, which fireball. Only the shadow remained. was designed to resemble the primitive A-frame houses in which When you visit the museum, be sure to rent the English-language the Japanese of past generations lived, to pray for the bomb victims. audio guide at the entrance of museum for 300 yen. Although each Through the vaults of the Cenotaph, I saw the Genbaku Dome and exhibit has a brief explanation in English, the recording will help the Peace Flame. It is said that the flame will only be extinguished you understand things in detail. when all atomic weapons in the world are The Peace Memorial Hall for the Atom- banished. Buried inside the vaults is a ic Bomb Victims is a 2-minute walk from stone chest holding books containing all the museum. The library in the hall gives the names of those who died as a result of HIROSHIMA PEACE you access to all forms of archives relating the bombing within the first year. On its ex- MEMORIAL MUSEUM to the atomic devastation, such as journals, terior are the words: “Repose ye in Peace, letters, photographs and recorded voices for the error shall not be repeated.” HOURS: March - November, 8:30 a.m. of victims. English translations of all the On Aug. 6 of each year, there is a solemn - 6 p.m.; August, 7 p.m.; December - materials are available. ceremony held in the park, and citizens February, 5 p.m. float paper lanterns on the rivers to repre- ADDRESS: 1-2 Kakajimacho, Naka-ku, n Children’s Peace Monument sent the souls of the victims. Hiroshima City (in Peace Memorial Park) Leaving the park, I saw countless color- ADMISSION: Adults, 50 yen ($2.50); high ful paper cranes hanging in display cases n Genbaku Dome and the hypocenter school students or younger, 30 yen; around the Children’s Peace Monument. of a-bomb (Audio guide, 300 yen) The cranes are in memory of all the chil- The Genbaku Dome is the only struc- URL: www.pcf.city.hiroshima.jp dren who perished in the bombing. It was tural ruin of the atomic devastation left TEL: 082-241-4004 the idea of Sadako Sasaki, a young girl who erected in the city. It was originally built died of leukemia caused by atomic radia- OKONOMI-MURA as a Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall HIROSHIMA NATIONAL PEACE tion. Her will to live was strong. She be- lieved that if she could fold 1,000 paper Serves up popular local dish in 1915. Miraculously, the hall did not com- MEMORIAL HALL FOR THE ATOMIC pletely collapse during the bombing, al- cranes, she would be cured. However, she BOMB VICTIMS died at the age of 12 after making more Hiroshima is famous for its though all the employees in the building “okonomiyaki,” a popular pan- HOURS: March - November, 8:30 a.m. - 6 than 1,500 cranes. were killed instantly. The half-shattered fried food that consists of batter, p.m. (7 p.m. in August); December - About 10 million paper cranes (weigh- structure has remained untouched since cabbage, noodles and select in- February, till 5 p.m. ing about 10 tons) are sent to the monu- the bombing. In 1996, the dome was reg- gredients such as meat, seafood ADDRESS: 1-6 Nakajimacho, Naka-ku, ment each year from all over the world, istered as a UNESCO World Heritage site. and cheese. Hiroshima City (within the Peace according to Hiroshima City. Before visiting Hiroshima, I thought the You can enjoy this savory Memorial Park) The bell on the statue rings out beauti- dome was ground-zero. But I learned that pancake-like specialty at Okono- ADMISSION: Free fully like a giant wind chime whenever the Shima Hospital, about 524 feet away from mi Mura (Okonomiyaki Village) URL: www.hiro-tsuitokinenkan.go.jp wind blows. the dome, was the actual impact point of near Hacchobori Station. TEL: 082-543-6271 the bomb. A small sign in front of the re- n While the building houses 25 built hospital attests to it. Surprisingly, the Hiroshima Castle Hiroshima Castle, just a 10-minute walk okonomiyaki restaurants, Yam- hospital has continued operating at the HIROSHIMA CASTLE from the park, was originally built in 1589 achan, Sarashina and Hassho same location since the event and is now by Lord Terumoto Mouri, who also gave on the 2nd floor are especially the Shima Surgery-Internal Hospital. HOURS: March - November, 9 a.m. – 6 p.m.; (5 p.m. December - February) the city its name. The castle is unique be- popular. n Peace Memorial Museum and Hall ADDRESS: 21-1 Motomachi, Naka-ku, cause it served as a military facility after The museum was crowded with visitors, Hiroshima City the Meiji Restoration in 1867. During the ADDRESS: 5-13 Shintenchi, Naka- a majority of them foreigners. ADMISSION: adult 370 yen ($3), high school Sino-Japanese War, the Imperial General ku, Hiroshima City (3-minute The exhibits at the Peace Memorial Mu- students 180 yen Headquarters was established at the cas- walk from Hacchobori Station seum range from a model of a bomb and URL: www.rijo-castle.jp tle. of Hiroshima Dentetsu line) maps and pictures of the devastated city, to TEL: 082-221-7512 After it was completely destroyed URL: www.okonomimura.jp/ charred fragments of clothing and melted by the bomb, the five-story castle foreign/english.html tiles. tower was rebuilt to its original TEL: 082-241-2210 The most shocking display for me was specifications in 1958. Its interior is the so-called Human Shadow Etched in Stone. It was a stone with now used as a museum for Hiroshima’s and the castle’s his- a black shadow. According to the description, the stone was found tory. Panoramic views of the city can be enjoyed from the top 853 feet away from the blast point. A person sitting on the stone was floor. exposed directly to the atomic flash. The victim is presumed to have [email protected]

Photos by Takiguchi Takahiro 22 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018

My 5 travel must-haves STORY AND PHOTO BY JOELY SANTIAGO, JOELYTRAVELS.COM Camera(s)

y packing list tends to Duh! The camera I take de- vary by location and pends on where I am going, how Mseason. If there’s a I’m getting there, beach or pool, I pack my biki- and how long ni. If there are mountains and my trip is snow, I bring my gloves and a going to be. big coat. But there are a few Sometimes I things I never leave home with- take my Go- out. My passport, medicines Pro. Others I (headache and cold stuff) and take my Nikon. Or sneakers go without saying, so sometimes even my I’m skipping those. But these Pentax. I always have five things I absolutely need! my phone, though (unless I lose it mid-trip–yes, it’s happened), and the camera on it is pretty de- cent. having a way to capture my Journal travels is crucial. I never travel anywhere without it. Ever. I typically don’t Skincare have time while I’m traveling (Gotta have it!) to make full entries. But I use it to jot down notes, the names First, sunscreen. I very rarely of places, lessons learned, itin- burn. But I never want to. So I al- eraries, etc. I also tape ticket ways pack my sunscreen–espe- stubs, re- cially the stuff for my face. I use ceipts and Kiehl’s Super Fluid Daily UV sometimes Defense. It’s lightweight and has even nap- SPF 50. And my face stays burn kins on the free. Second, moisturizers. I find pages (yes, my skin gets really dry when I I’m senti- travel, especially when I go on mental like long trips. So I always make sure that). It helps me remember I pack moisturizer for my face my adventures better. And it’s and body and eye cream (Keihl’s always fun to go back and read Rosa Artica face and eye cream it after time has passed. and coconut oil for my body). I also pack a few moisture-mask Headphones sheets. This stuff keeps down (and iPhone) skin irritation for me, and there’s nothing worse than going on va- I never leave home without cations and feeling itchy, irritat- them; it doesn’t matter how far ed or uncomfortable. I’m going. Listening to music helps drown out noise during Stripes Guam is A Stars and Stripes Community to remote and isolated locations where overseas DOD flights, but also I like to cre- Rosebud Salve Publication. This newspaper is authorized for publication personnel are located. The appearance of advertising in ate soundtracks for my trips. Lastly, I can’t live without my by the Department of Defense for members of the this publication, including inserts or supplements, does military services overseas. However, the contents not constitute endorsement of those products by the I know. It’s a little weird. But Rosebud. It’s not just a must- of Stripes Guam are unofficial, and are not to be Department of Defense or Stars and Stripes. Products songs and smells trigger my have for travel; for me, it’s an considered as the official views of, or endorsed by, the or services advertised in this publication shall be made memory more than anything everyday essential. It helps with U.S. government, including the Department of Defense available for purchase, use, or patronage without regard else, and I really love hearing dry skin, soothes burns, and even or the U.S. Pacific Command. As a DOD newspaper, to race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, marital a song and having it transport treats diaper rash. I mostly just Stripes Guam may be distributed through official status, physical handicap, political affiliation, or any me to the places I’ve been and use it as a lip balm, but I never channels and use appropriated funds for distribution other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. remind me of my adventures. leave home without it. OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION STRIPES GUAM 23 Lessons your children learn from traveling BY MARY DEL ROSARIO, the need for these closures. STRIPES GUAM Their confidence is higher. Have your kiddos order from the menu in Spanish if you find o quote Gustave Flaubert, “Travel makes yourselves in Spain, especially if they’ve one modest, you see what a tiny place you taken Spanish in high school. After all, immersing T occupy in the world.” Even children can yourself is the best way to learn! become humble during their travels. Below are They learn more about themselves. This is eight lessons your kids will learn from traveling. especially true if your children are older. If They learn to be humble and appreciate what they you’re all on a family vacation, perhaps have. If you’re traveling to a third world they’ll be able to tell you their preferences of what country or even a country that is less fortunate a perfect vacation to them would look like. Would than the one you live in, children will learn to they prefer a city trip, or would they rather lay on appreciate their off-brand cell phone when they the beach? The only way to find out is by traveling Week of 10/22/18 - 10/28/18 see other kids their age without any phones or and learning about what you like or don’t like! devices. They learn to try new things and be more open. A They are cultured and experience new simple example of this would be food. cultures other than their Perhaps there is a specialty belonging to own. By the time the country you’re visiting. If you have a picky your children are of eater, encourage them to try new things! age where they will be They can engage in a world other than their own. off in the “real world,” they You know those people that only want to The Weekly Crossword by Margie E. Burke will be able to tell their peers and venture out to their local grocery store and ACROSS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 colleagues about different countries Grimm beast not even try to explore the newest one a couple of 1 14 15 16 and their customs. They may even towns away. Don’t let your children be like that! 5 Turkish bigwig adopt a custom that they resonate 10 Cass of 60's 17 18 19 Seeing the world will break them free of wanting to music with. 20 21 22 23 stay inside their own bubble and get them to 14 Show some They can see the world from different explore the world around them. muscle 24 25 26 27 perspectives. Often times, we They can unplug from technology and learn to relax 15 Acquired relative 28 29 30 31 tend to only see our side when and be ... kids! One of the saddest things to 16 Methane's lack Solidarity symbol it comes to having discussions and/or see is when a family is out to eat, and all you 17 32 33 18 Overcharge debates. However, traveling will see is their heads bowed down because everyone is 19 Lizard look-alike 34 35 36 37 38 teach your kids that although it is attached to their devices. Traveling will get your "The Silence of 20 39 40 41 ok to have your own opinion, they kids to put the phone down and live life! No one will the Lambs" should see the other side of the be looking at their phone if they have the view of surname 42 43 44 45 46 22 Notary's mark argument. For example, I feel a bit gorgeous Santorini as the backdrop! Traveling will 47 48 49 24 Bakery buy inconvenienced when shops and also be good conversation starters with your family, 25 Russian 50 51 52 restaurants are closed in certain so everyone can be engaged in talking about their horseman European countries. On the other favorite part of holiday! 28 Beat-heat link 53 54 55 56 57 hand, I always think of the workers’ Whether you travel near or far, long or short, 29 TB, in olden 58 59 60 perspectives and whether it be globe-trotting to a new destination and country days 32 Kitchen set 61 62 63 because of the hot weather or will not only be beneficial to you, but also to your 33 Taro root File photos Copyright 2018 by The Puzzle Syndicate the fact that a better work- children! Who knows? They may be more confident 34 Cleanser brand life balance is needed, I see and cultured leaders of the world someday! 37 1942 flick "My 4 Background 36 Rail family water 45 Ricky Martin, ___ Sal" actor bird notably 38 October handout 5 Blast furnace 38 Like some 46 Promise to PBS 39 Milky gem output agreements 49 Eat greedily 40 St. Louis Arch, 6 Briefly 40 Dumpster filler (with "down") e.g. unknown? 41 Andy Taylor 51 Bungle 42 Itinerant 7 Garden pest was one 52 Flow slowly 44 Matterhorn, e.g. 8 Frightful old 43 Scorecard 53 Likely 47 Trap woman number 54 Sticky stuff 48 Cheerless 9 More than cool 44 Ethically neutral 56 Looker's leg 50 Rosemary, for 10 Religious one residence 51 Writer's bottom 11 Capital of South Answers to Last Week’s Crossword: line? Australia OCCUR AWAY PALM 53 Turkish title 12 Do some yard ALONE ROBE AGUE 55 Burning bright work TOTAL BOLT NEST 57 Rainless 13 Frida's forte STERILIZE BASTE Frost, e.g. Authorized 58 21 MEATY BUM 59 First-aid kit 23 Psychic ability EGO FUR EATABLE staple 25 Serving of veal AULD DAISYCHAIN 60 "You ___?" 26 End piece VIDEO TOT HASTE Since becoming the Milwaukee Brewers in 1970, the franchise has made just one World Series 61 Voicemail prompt 27 Maritime speed ELECTRONIC TEEM appearance. In 1982,Week the of American 10/22/18 League - 10/28/18 champs fell in Game 7 to the St. Louis Cardinals. That 62 Glowing remnant 30 Make invalid SENATOR MOT DRY season, Robin Yount won the AL MVP award. Yount currently sits 2nd on the Brewers’ all-time home 63 Arctic ice mass 31 Cabinet runs list. Who is the only player ahead of him? department DEB PARIS DOWN 32 Show by CHEER POTENTIAL

HYMN DELI HARDY Ryan Braun Ryan 1 Compensate for drawing Stripes Sports Trivia 2 Computer snag 34 Deal with EPIC OLIO ALKIE 3 Used car deal 35 Dentist's order WERE NEON TESTS

SUDOKU Edited by Margie E. Burke Answer Difficulty: Medium HOW TO SOLVE: 7 6 4 5 Each row must contain the numbers 1 to 9; each column must contain the numbers 1 to 9; and 4 2 each set of 3 by 3 boxes must 3 2 6 contain the numbers 1 to 9. Answers to Last Week’s Sudoku: 5 8 3 2 7 6 8 3 9 5 1 4 4 1 9 1 3 5 4 2 7 8 6 4 5 8 6 1 7 3 9 2 2 8 5 6 4 6 4 2 7 8 5 9 3 1 2 1 8 7 2 9 3 4 6 5 5 3 9 1 6 4 8 2 7 7 8 3 9 5 4 2 6 1 7 8 6 9 3 8 2 4 9 7 1 6 5 3 Copyright 2018 by The Puzzle Syndicate 7 6 1 3 5 8 2 4 9

24 STRIPES GUAM A STARS AND STRIPES COMMUNITY PUBLICATION OCTOBER 26 − NOVEMBER 1, 2018 FRIDAY, OCTOBER 26, 2018

‘Busting rocks in jail?’ — New Marine correctional unit goes against stereotype with mindfulness and goal-setting Page 2

Marines from a Correctional Custody Unit class stand at attention for a uniform inspection at the brig on Camp Hansen, Okinawa, on Aug. 31.

MATT BURKE/Stars and Stripes PAGE 2 F3HIJKLM •STARS AND STRIPES• Friday, October 26, 2018

MILITARY

PHOTOS BY MATT BURKE/Stars and Stripes Above: A Marine helps another prepare for a uniform inspection during the Correctional Custody Unit program in August at Camp Hansen, Okinawa. Left: Correctional treatment specialist Michael Long teaches a class in August at the brig. Program focuses on rehab for wayward Marines

BY MATTHEW M. BURKE ers. Each awardee has an individual dorm Corps; these welcomed them to the portion They went over essays they had written Stars and Stripes room with a bed, sink, water fountain and of the brig where incarcerated inmates are and watched a video about goals, hap- toilet. The program can accommodate 32 housed. piness, health and inner well-being by CAMP FOSTER, Okinawa — Pvt. Colton servicemembers at a time. They toured the in-processing center motivational philosopher Jay Shetty. Cornelius and Lance Cpl. Wellington Dan- When it was launched in May at the and learned about body-cavity searches Some of the classes awardees take iels have made mistakes. Camp Hansen brig, planners decided to and prison uniforms, the cells and the caf- include “Thinking for Change” and “Prime The two III Marine Expeditionary scrap a controversial part of the program eteria. Everything was cold and stark. for Life,” as well as a core-values refresher. Force Marines drew the ire of their com- that saw flak jacket-clad Marines pulver- “It is vitally important that you give They also participated in mindfulness manders recently for minor alcohol-relat- izing rocks with sledge hammers in the everything you have to this program,” training. Long said that’s one of the most ed infractions while stationed on the tiny Okinawan heat. Ortiz said. beneficial aspects of the CCU program. southern Japanese island prefecture of “There is hope, regardless of what it “We try to get them to be more re- Okinawa. But leadership determined they Day 1 feels like right now. I am telling you, there flective of what they’re doing; I think were valuable to their units and should be is hope.” it’s getting them to slow down a little given another chance rather than pun- On Aug. 15, the seven-man Class 4-TAC- bit,” he said. “Making a good decision, ished with separation from the Marines. 18 arrived in the rain outside the Hansen Day 16 making a bad decision is just that brief They were placed in the Correctional brig. Only the fourth class to go through moment; anger is a secondary emotion. Custody Unit, a new rehabilitation pro- the fledgling program, they stood outside The CCU program is broken up into So, if somebody is out drinking and they gram aimed at setting Marines on the with sea bags slung over their shoulders three weeklong periods called “conducts,” get mad, having the ability to just take a straight and narrow and reintegrating and were told to enter one at a time for Ortiz said. Conduct 1, the first week, is breath, think, can help you make the right them into their units. in-processing. the most strict. Rules are established, and decision.” Dubbed CCU 2.0, the program began The first Marine through the thick steel battlefield communication — shouting, May 2 at Camp Hansen and soon could be door didn’t make it one step before a watch essentially — is used to enforce them. A Day 28 launched at stateside Marine bases. stander was in his face shouting about board approves passage to the next phase. Cornelius and Daniels thought the pro- neglecting to give the proper greeting. “First thing I thought was everything By Sept. 12, the Conduct 3 awardees gram was going to be mostly manual labor “Get out,” he barked. was like boot camp all over again,” Dan- were ready to return to their units. They and grueling punishment. The Marine exited and re-entered. iels said. “Everything was stern, disci- donned dress uniforms and made their “I was watching old videos and all I “Good morning, gentlemen,” he said pline, everything had to be done to the way by van to the Camp Hansen theater. saw was the hammering rocks, so I’m sheepishly. exact ‘T.’ ” A torii gate had been set up on the stage like, ‘We’re going to be busting rocks in The awardee was instructed to dump In Conduct 2, watch standers ease off along with the U.S. and Marine Corps jail?’ and I’m like, ‘man,’ ” said Daniels, his sea bag’s contents onto the deck and and let appointed awardee squad leaders flags. 28, a motor vehicle operator from Miami. segregate it. His cellphone, wallet and delegate and lead. Watch standers inter- Friends and members of their units sat “But when I first came in, it was totally other personal items were confiscated as ject when necessary. in the audience as a show of support. different.” contraband. He was given a foot locker and During Conduct 3 — the release phase After several speeches extolling their ac- The program includes mindfulness told which items should go inside. They — watch standers generally don’t need to complishments, the awardees were called training, goal-setting and classes on a were checked as each item was entered. step in. to the stage one by one. They received a variety of topics, such as financial literacy This process was repeated for each Ma- On Aug. 31, the awardees completed a certificate and shook hands with Ortiz and learning the jobs of other Marines, rine while a commanding officer met with 3-mile run with cadence at 6 a.m. with the and CCU 2.0 commander Chief Warrant such as machine-gun operation. Ortiz to go over any health concerns the law enforcement battalion. They show- Officer Rachel Jacobs. They walked with Cornelius said it didn’t take long for him awardees might have, appointments and ered and got into their dress uniforms for pride and there were no signs of shame or to realize that CCU 2.0 was helping him. rules for visitation. inspection. dishonor. “I had really bad problems with pa- Next, awardees stood on footprints, The process was rigorous. “It feels great to graduate,” Cornelius tience. I was always frustrated,” said the just like in boot camp. But these were not The awardees changed out of their said. “I still plan on improving.” rifleman, 24, of Huntsville, Ala. “This the kind welcoming them to the Marine dress uniforms and filed into a classroom. With the right attitude, Daniels said, program has actually allowed me to kind one can easily become a better Marine of like calm down, assess situations and through the CCU. He said he is nervous just kind of go with the flow of things.” History of CCU heading back to his unit, but he has seen Marine officials are optimistic about the the improvement in himself. program. The first CCU program was started in 1979 to give commanders an alternative to discharg- “It’s like being given a second chance,” “The mission is to get that wayward ing undeveloped or immature servicemembers who get into trouble for minor violations of the he said. Marine to serve their initial contract ob- Uniform Code of Military Justice. It became widespread in the mid-1990s, around the time one Cornelius said he didn’t have any goals ligations,” said Gunnery Sgt. Loren Ortiz, was founded at Camp Hansen, Marine officials have said. Marine Corps hubs of Camp Lejeune when he entered the program. He was staff noncommissioned officer in charge. in North Carolina and Camp Pendleton in California also had versions of the penal institution and leaving with a plan to use tuition as- “Anything after that is icing on the cake program. sistance to take college courses until he — re-enlistment, meritorious promotion … The units were known for strenuous physical training that resembled boot camp and were last separates from the service. Then he plans We’ve received support from the highest operated in the United States and on Okinawa in 2004, when they were ended due to staffing to use his G.I. Bill to go to welding school. levels of leadership.” shortages while the U.S. military was preoccupied in Iraq and Afghanistan. “I didn’t have that planned out until I Participants are called “awardees” In recent years, Marine leaders on Okinawa began looking to revive the program to cut down came here, so I would definitely say it’s and spend seven or 30 days under the on administrative separations and help Marines finish their enlistments honorably. Headquarters been beneficial for me in that aspect,” he constant watch and critique of a senior Marine Corps approved the relaunch in February. said. watch stander and assigned watch stand- [email protected] Friday, October 26, 2018 •STARS AND STRIPES• F3HIJKLM PAGE 3

PACIFIC THAAD presence in S. Korea formalized

BY MARCUS FICHTL every week via helicopter but also Stars and Stripes stop U.S. vehicles from shipping in goods and supplies. CAMP CARROLL, South “Currently, the only way on and Korea — The administrative of- off of the site is by helicopter,” she fices for the U.S. military’s most said. “A week at a time at least, advanced anti-ballistic missile every single one of my soldiers is system in South Korea have away from their barracks room, finally found a permanent home their family.” nearly two years after a midnight She said if the gates weren’t run brought the first pair of launchers to the peninsula. blocked, they wouldn’t require The controversial Terminal the extended rotations and could High Altitude Area Defense, or keep more people at Carroll, THAAD, battery — on a former which is only a 25-minute drive golf course in the melon-farming away. area of Seongju, 190 miles south Spc. Josiah Welch, a THAAD of Seoul — is manned by a unit operator, said conditions have known as Combined Task Force improved since he started at the Defender. site in November. The Delta Battery, 2nd Air De- “There was pretty bad mold fense Artillery Regiment, which initially,” said Welch, 25, from oversees the operation from near- Winter Park, Fla. “There was a by Camp Carroll, cut the ribbon week where we didn’t have run- Oct. 19 for its newly refurbished ning water — we had baby wipe headquarters building. showers.” Now they have air con- “This ceremony today is the ditioning and showers, he said. final step to formalize the pres- The military finally began ence of Delta-2 on the Korean shipping fresh food three times a Peninsula,” said the battery’s week last month, reducing some commander, Capt. Kate Thei- reliance on preprepared field ra- lacker, 29. tions, Theilacker said. Theilacker, from New Rich- The site even got a popcorn mond, Wis., later told Stars and PHOTOS BY MARCUS FICHTL/Stars and Stripes maker two weeks ago, she said, Stripes she was “honored” to be adding that toward the end of her part of the “historic moment.” Delta Battery, 2nd Air Defense Artillery Regiment members salute during a ribbon-cutting at Camp Carroll, South Korea, on Oct. 19. last rotation, it began tasting like “We’re here for the long haul to the best popcorn she ever had. support the Korean people. We’re Theilacker hopes they will get here as a permanent fixture in assigned rather than rotated in April when the South Korean offices, an armory to store small a functioning dining facility by the ballistic missile defense of the from the United States. defense ministry said it was pro- arms for the unit and space for 20 the end of the year rather than peninsula,” she said. The move occurred despite op- viding material to make the base computer workstations. The United States and South position from locals, activists and livable for the South Korean and The smell of new paint and relying on the South Korean Korea agreed to deploy THAAD China, which claims THAAD’s U.S. servicemembers there. celebratory cake was a warm wel- unit’s kitchen. to the peninsula in 2016 to coun- radar system poses a threat to its Theilacker said the new build- come to their new home at Camp Welch said he appreciates the ter a growing threat from North national defense. President Don- ing was a massive upgrade from Carroll, but Theilacker said life at “real-world application” of his job Korea. ald Trump also questioned what their old location, which consisted Seongju needs improvement. despite the rough conditions at The transition from a tem- he said was the $1 billion cost of of two small rooms and three “The buildings we have weren’t Seongju. porary to a permanent unit THAAD. computers. built to house soldiers,” she said. “We get to see our work come began about a year ago when Local South Korean protesters “Sometimes, we’d cram 40 “It’s not unlivable, but it’s not to life and actually make an im- the unit flagged to the 35th Air routinely demonstrate as trans- people into the old place” she said nice.” pact in the world,” he said. Defense Artillery Brigade and port vehicles enter the base. Most while giving a tour of the new She said the protesters not only [email protected] its soldiers became permanently recently, skirmishes erupted in headquarters, which includes force her troops to fly in and out Twitter: @MarcusFichtl COLA rates changing for US military paychecks in Japan

BY CAITLIN DOORNBOS up 6 points from 122 to 128. Yokota and can be found at www.defensetravel.dod. Earlier this year, many military fami- Stars and Stripes Misawa’s rates increased by 4 points from mil/site/colaCalc.cfm. lies and bases in Japan made a concerted 118 to 122 and 124 to 128, respectively; The changes in rates were the result of effort to promote survey participation. YOKOSUKA NAVAL BASE, Japan and Sasebo increased by 2 points from responses to the living patterns survey Navy spouse Ellie Jackson created a — Military personnel and their families 122 to 124. offered in April and May to military bases campaign on the 5,500-member “Yoko- across Japan will notice a change in their Other bases saw a drop in COLA, with in Japan. suka Military Spouses” Facebook group paychecks as soon as next month reflect- Camp Fuji’s rate decreasing by 6 points The survey — which is offered every to remind people to take the survey in ing results from the 2018 living pattern from 124 to 118; Camp Zama by 4 points three years — asks servicemembers how hopes that more responses would raise the survey administered last spring. from 130 to 126; and Naval Air Facility and where they shop for goods and ser- Chief Master Sgt. Terrence Greene, of Atsugi by 2 points from 124 to 122, Greene vices, according to the DTA. COLA rates. U.S. Forces Japan, announced the new said. Those assigned to bases on Okinawa The responses are then used to deter- Jackson said in April that when COLA cost-of-living allowance rates for service- will see a 2-point decrease, from 120 to mine how much military families over- rates dropped for Yokosuka earlier this members in Japan on AFN Tokyo radio 118. seas are paying for products compared year, some people had a perception Oct. 19 — about two weeks ahead of when COLA rates remain unchanged for with what they would pay if they lived that rates may increase if more people the numbers are to be published by the those at Yokosuka Naval Base and Yoko- stateside. complete the living patterns survey. The Defense Travel Management Office on hama North Dock, he said. The purpose of COLA is to compensate market basket survey that determined the Nov. 1. The new rates will be implemented for personnel for higher prices overseas, so January COLA change had a low response COLA rates indicate how much more all bases by the end of the year, Greene COLA rates drop if results indicate prices rate. expensive it is to live in an area as com- told AFN’s listeners. have become more comparable with state- But then-Yokosuka Naval Base spokes- pared with the United States. “For those areas that will see an in- side rates. man Sean Kelly warned that while it’s im- A baseline of 100 represents the cost of crease, it will be effective in your Novem- This is the second time COLA rates portant that the surveys are completed by living in the U.S., so a COLA rate of 122 ber paychecks,” he said, adding that those have changed in Japan in 2018. In as many people as possible for accuracy, means an area’s cost of living is 22 per- experiencing a decrease will notice the January, all but two U.S. bases — Atsugi COLA rates can rise or fall regardless of cent higher than it is back home. changes in their December pay. and Camp Fuji — experienced COLA the number of survey respondents. Servicemembers at four installations To help families find out what the reductions based on the results from a — Marine Corps Air Station Iwakuni, new COLA rates will look like in dollar 2017 market basket survey. The larg- “But the more data you have, the more Yokota Air Base, Misawa Air Base and amounts, the Defense Travel Agency est decreases came at Yokosuka, where accurate the COLA information can be,” Sasebo Naval Base — will see their COLA offers an online tool to calculate COLA servicemembers saw rates drop about 45 Kelly said. rates increase, Greene told listeners. based on pay grade, years of service, num- percent, and at Yokota, where they fell by [email protected] Iwakuni is seeing the greatest boost, ber of dependents and type of housing. It about 30 percent. Twitter: @CaitlinDoornbos PAGE 4 F3HIJKLM •STARS AND STRIPES• Friday, October 26, 2018

MILITARY Vietnam-era Marine receives Medal of Honor BY COREY DICKSTEIN as it charged into the city to pry it Stars and Stripes from the North Vietnamese and Viet Cong forces who had cap- WASHINGTON — Nearly 51 tured it during the unanticipated years after the battle that would Tet Offensive. launch John L. Canley into the In the midst of one of the most annals of Marine lore, the retired ferocious fights of the Vietnam sergeant major stood stoic in War, Canley would organize as- the White House on Oct. 17 as saults on enemy positions, killing he received the nation’s highest countless enemy fighters as his military honor. team retook buildings in the city, Shouts of “oorah,” the Marine according to award citations. Corps’ legendary battle cry, rang Twice, the noncommissioned through the East Room and the officer braved fire to scale a wall standing-room-only crowd of in “full view of the enemy to pick Canley’s fellow Vietnam veterans up wounded Marines and carry and top military brass cheered them to safety.” the 80-year-old as President Trump said Wednesday that Donald Trump presented him Canley had saved at least 20 Ma- the Medal of Honor. The Marines rines’ lives during that “house- who fought alongside Canley in to-house, very vicious, very hard Vietnam’s brutal Battle of Hue combat.” had worked for years to see him “In one instance after another, receive the award — an upgrade John risked his own life to save of the Navy Cross that he was his Marines,” the president said. awarded in 1970. “He just continued to face the Canley is the 300th Marine to enemy with no regard for his own receive the medal. life.” Trump, echoing the comments Canley, of Oxnard, Calif., has of Canley’s fellow troops, said credited the Marines that he Canley had showed through- served with for his receiving the SUSAN WALSH/AP out his entire life that he was a award and his numerous acts of Marine’s Marine. valor during that fight. President Donald Trump presents the Medal of Honor to U.S. Marine Corps retired Sgt. Maj. John L. He is “a Marine warrior, who The Medal of Honor “means a Canley during an East Room ceremony at the White House on Oct. 17. is bigger than life and beyond the lot to me,” Canley said in an inter- reach of death. He is truly larger view earlier this year with USA between 1964 and 1970, accord- Trump and the third to receive Calif., sponsored the bill approv- than life,” Trump said before Today. “Mostly for my Marines, ing to his Marine biography. He the award from Trump for ac- ing the upgraded award, which turning to Canley. “There are because we’ve had to wait 50-plus retired from the service in 1981 as tions during the Vietnam War. was passed in January. very few people — brave, brave years to get any kind of recogni- a sergeant major after serving 28 All seven Medals of Honor that “Sgt. Maj. Canley is a shining people — like you, John.” tion. It’s not about me. It’s about years in the Marine Corps. Trump has presented have been example of why our armed forces On Jan. 31, 1968, Canley was the Marines who didn’t [receive] In a brief video produced by upgrades of previously awarded are the best military in the world, suddenly called upon for a job the appropriate recognition when the Marine Corps, Canley said it lower valor honors. While some of and his heroism and bravery that he never expected to have. we got home.” was the men who fought alongside them are the result of a Pentagon- showcases what being an Ameri- With his company commander se- Canley did not make a public him who kept him going during ordered review of Post-9/11 valor can hero truly means,” Brownley verely wounded as his unit made statement at the White House on the Battle of Hue from Jan. 31 to awards, others such as Canley said last month following the its way toward the besieged city Wednesday. Feb. 6. have been the result of years of White House’s announcement of of Hue in northern South Viet- In addition to the Medal of “My Marines, because they effort by friends and family of the the award upgrade. nam, then-Gunnery Sgt. Canley Honor, Canley received the believed in me, they would follow recipients. “I look forward to Sgt. Maj. took control of Alpha Company, a Bronze Star with “V” device for me to death,” he said in the video For Canley, the Medal of Canley finally receiving this job typically reserved for a com- valor, the Purple Heart and the published Oct. 16. “And I have no Honor upgrade required an act of much-deserved honor, and thank missioned officer. Navy and Marine Corps Commen- doubt about that.” Congress because of the amount him for his unwavering dedica- For the next six days, Canley dation Medal with “V” device for Canley is the seventh person to of time that had passed since tion to our nation and his fellow would lead the 1st Marines unit valor for his service in Vietnam receive the Medal of Honor from the war. Rep. Julia Brownley, D- servicemembers.” Air Force names its new hypersonic flight research vehicle ‘X-60A’

BY JAMES BOLINGER enables faster development of both our Stars and Stripes current hypersonic weapon rapid proto- types and evolving future systems.” The Air Force has given its new hyper- The vehicle’s inaugural test flight is sonic flight research vehicle the experi- slated for late 2019, with a planned speed mental designation of “X-60A,” according of Mach 6 — or 4,603 mph — within the to a statement issued earlier this month. atmosphere, according Jane’s Defense Under development by the Atlanta- Weekly. Air Force officials would not con- based Generation Orbit Launch Services, firm that information, citing operational the X-60A is aimed at helping the Air security concerns. Force perfect such technologies as scram- The service has spent less than $25 jet propulsion, high-temperature materials million since the inception of the X-60A and autonomous control, the statement program and its first two tests, Air Force said. spokesman Bryan Ripple told Stars and Capable of reaching speeds of up to Stripes in an emailed statement Oct. 17. Mach 8 — 6,138 mph — the vehicle will The X-60A completed a hot-fire engine drop from a Gulfstream III jet and launch using a single-stage Hadley rocket engine test using a flight like prototype in June that burns liquid oxygen and kerosene 2018 and captive carry flights using a propellants to climb to altitudes of up to to-scale, inert prototype in December 13,000 feet. 2017, according to a fact sheet. A captive Col. Colin Tucker, of the Air Force’s sci- carry flight is one in which a prototype is ence, technology and engineering office, attached to the launch platform for testing described the X-60A as “a flying wind tun- but is not released to free fall. nel” that will capture data to complement The X-60A announcement was made ground testing. just days after the Navy signed a $13 mil- “We’ve long needed this type of test lion contract for a submarine-launched vehicle to better understand how materi- hypersonic missile for Columbia-class Courtesy of the U.S. Air Force als and other technologies behave while vessels. flying at more than five times the speed [email protected] This illustration shows the newly named X-60A hypersonic flight research vehicle. of sound,” he said in the statement. “It Twitter: @bolingerj2004 Friday, October 26, 2018 •STARS AND STRIPES• F3HIJKLM PAGE 5

MILITARY Rarefied air Duo skydives in all 50 states in single trek to raise awareness for veterans nonprofit group

BY WYATT OLSON move from the couch,” O’Neil Stars and Stripes blogged of the experience. “By the next morning, he’s starting FORT SHAFTER, Hawaii to smell like a corpse. I tell him — Sandwiched between the blue we’re driving to a hospital. He’s of Hawaii’s sky and sea, a pair of too weak to argue.” skydivers completed their quest A surgeon at the University of Oct. 16 to parachute in all 50 Wisconsin Medical Center told states during a single cross-coun- them Strickland had punctured try trek. his bowel with the impact on the Annette O’Neil, 37, and Joel water and was within hours of Strickland, 38, parachuted over death. Dillingham Airfield on the North Once Strickland was out of sur- Shore of Oahu, completing their gery and out of danger, the two Down for 50 journey that began decided O’Neil would continue May 1 in Arizona. the journey as he recuperated in The jumps were intended to the hospital, after which he made raise awareness of Operation the decision to rejoin the effort. Photos courtesy of Joel Strickland and Annette O’Neil Enduring Warrior, a veteran- His return went to the heart of Above: Joel Strickland and Annette O’Neil strike freefall poses as they skydive in Hawaii on Oct. 16. founded nonprofit organization why they were making the jumps. Below: Strickland and O’Neil stand at Dillingham Airfield on Oahu after skydiving in all 50 states. with programs to aid wounded “We’re doing this for the military and law enforcement benefit of guys who have suffered veterans with physical and emo- much more serious injuries,” she Enduring Warrior did skydiv- tional rehabilitation. said of wounded veterans, some ing,” she said. “Even a lot of “With this stop in Hawaii, we of whom must adjust to life with military and veteran skydivers will have done that,” O’Neil told multiple limbs amputated. “It didn’t know Operation Enduring Stars and Stripes shortly before really inspired him to come out Warrior exists.” the final jump out of Oahu Para- of surgery and to give it a solid A final batch of jumps at the chute Center. three weeks of recovery and then end of September were a mad So how does it feel to come say, ‘You know what? I’m back in dash, with the pair making jumps to the end of a journey that has it. I’m getting on the plane.’ ” in six states in a single week. consumed almost a half-year? O’Neil is the daughter of a 27- The haste was driven by deplet- “Dude, you have no idea how year Air Force veteran who went ing funds, earlier delays caused stoked we are to be logging on to a second career with the by uncooperative weather and the 50th jump for the books,” Department of Veterans Affairs the looming expiration of the O’Neil said. “It has been a gnarly as associate chief of staff for am- U.S. travel visa for Strickland, a journey.” bulatory care services at Quillen citizen of Great Britain. She ticked off a litany of VA Medical Center in Tennessee. “My ardent wish was to stay hurdles they met along the way, “I met a lot of people while my awhile at each dropzone; to get including dodging a hurricane, dad worked at the VA who re- to know the people there, more a $7,000 transmission repair ally could have used a sport like than just an itty-bitty little bit,” job on the RV they used to wend skydiving and, more importantly, O’Neil blogged recently. “To tell through the bottom 48 states and a community like skydiving,” she stories; to stand together, staring a bad jump landing that hospital- said. at campfires; to jump; to play; to ized Strickland for three weeks. While parachuting at Skydive eventually snuggle good-byes like In Missouri, state number 20 Arizona in Eloy, between Phoe- dear friends. In my head, we’d in the sequence, Strickland took nix and Tucson, she met a group and endless mental, physical, and O’Neil said. “So, I came up with only ever be pulling up anchor after a few luxurious days at port. a very hard landing in a body of people involved with Opera- emotional rehabilitative solutions this idea to skydive in all 50 of water that left him dazed and tion Enduring Warrior, which “The reality is that this trip in what can feel like a completely states and to be the first to do it listless. operates a skydiving program looks like a quarterback running Nevertheless, the pair drove to for wounded veterans out of that new dimension in their lives, all in one trip. down the field, slapping a couple the next state. location. often becoming a lifelong hobby,” “Even in a niche as small as dozen lined-up high-fives.” “I do the Iowa jump when we The program offers “an unpar- OEW explains on its website. skydiving, there are a lot of folks [email protected] get there, Joel being unable to alleled sense of freedom of flight “I got really stoked about that,” who didn’t know that Operation Twitter: @WyattWOlson US retreats on S. Koreans’ base access in Japan

BY LEON COOK ca’s longtime Pacific ally had been added White did not provide a reason for the Korean army officer and professor of the AND YOO KYONG CHANG to a list of more than 50 nations whose reversion. graduate school of politics and leadership Stars and Stripes citizens must receive additional screening Some South Korean commentators sug- at Seoul’s Kookmin University, said the ahead of base visits — a process that can gested this week that the extra checks for base access moves might mean the level YOKOTA AIR BASE, Japan — The U.S. take up to 30 days. their citizens could be related to friction of Washington’s trust in its ally has been military has removed South Korea from a An updated document that included with the U.S. over rapidly warming ties to lowered. list of nations whose citizens must undergo South Korea was approved in May, but offi- the North. Park mentioned there are many ethnic extra scrutiny before they can visit friends cials only recently had started enforcing it. A Seoul Economic Daily editorial Koreans with sympathies to the North liv- or attend events on American bases in “U.S. Forces Japan is reviewing its published Oct. 16 suggested a “too submis- ing in Japan. Japan. policies and procedures for third country sive attitude” to North Korea by the South “South and North Korea keep in contact The U-turn, announced Oct. 18 at the national access to US military installa- Korean government had affected its rela- a lot with each other, so the troops may home of U.S. Forces Japan in western tions in Japan,” Maj. Genieve White, a tions with the U.S., before noting the base judge that some South Koreans coming Tokyo, follows complaints that South Ko- USFJ spokeswoman, told Stars and Stripes . access restrictions and recent complaints into bases might try to collect information reans had been turned away at Yokota and “Until that review is complete, the previous by Secretary of State Mike Pompeo about or commit terrorist acts,” he said. other installations in Japan. policies and procedures enacted in 2016 Seoul’s dealings with Pyongyang. [email protected] Stars and Stripes reported that Ameri- will remain in effect.” Hwee Rhak Park, a retired South [email protected] PAGE 6 F3HIJKLM •STARS AND STRIPES• Friday, October 26, 2018

PACIFIC No easy solution in Russia-Japan island dispute

BY SETH ROBSON Gift shops sell kelp harvested from Stars and Stripes the Habomais, Russian nesting dolls and local seafood. There’s a visitor center with NEMURO, Japan — In late November old photos and maps of the islands and a 1941, a Japanese fleet that included six tribute to the former mayor of Nemuro, aircraft carriers launched from what was who in December 1945 petitioned Gen. one of Japan’s northernmost points — Eto- Douglas MacArthur at his Tokyo head- rofu Island’s Hitokappu Bay — to attack quarters asking that measures “be taken Pearl Harbor. for the residents to live peacefully on these More than three quarters of a century islands.” later, the bay is still home to military forces However, the Russians, who had consid- — troops from Russia, which took pos- ered pushing as far as Hokkaido at the end session of Etorofu and three other islands of the war, remained in control. north of Hokkaido at the end of World War II. Military factor The Russian presence and the expulsion of more than 17,000 Japanese from Etoro- The presence of U.S. Forces in northern fu, Kunashiri, Shikotan and the Habomai Japan, including Navy EA-18 Growlers islands — which Japan calls its Northern capable of jamming enemy radar and Air Territories and Russia calls the Southern Force F-16 Fighting Falcons from nearby Kurils — remains a source of tension and Misawa Air Base capable of destroying the reason the nations have yet to sign a radar and missile launchers, may be fac- peace treaty 73 years after the war. tors in the negotiations over the territory. Most Japanese have never seen the In January, the Japan Air Self-Defense islands, the closest of which is only about Force deployed its first F-35A Lightning 4 miles from Hokkaido’s northeast coast. II stealth jets to Misawa, which has also However, Prime Minister Shinzo Abe has hosted U.S. Global Hawk unmanned sur- made them a priority, meeting regularly veillance drones in recent years. with Russian President Vladimir Putin Above: Kimio Last year, it was reported that Rus- and offering economic incentives at a time Waki points sia had deployed two types of antiship when his American ally has sanctioned toward the island missiles to Etorofu and Kunashiri as a Russia over aggression in Europe. where he grew response to missile defense efforts in the The mountains of Kunashiri, almost up from a lookout Western Pacific, which include plans to 6,000 feet tall, loom over Hokkaido’s Shire- on Hokkaido’s install Aegis Ashore batteries in Japan. toko Peninsula. It’s a rugged area teeming Shiretoko There have also been reports of Russian with wildlife, including bears, hundreds of Peninsula on Oct. plans to boost ground forces on the islands, bird species, whales and gamefish. 10. which already host machine-gun artillery From a lookout above the town of Rausu, Left: Japanese units and helicopters. the island looks close enough to swim to fishing boats In March, a pair of Su-35 s — Russia’s — just 15 miles away. Visitors can walk depart Shiretoko most advanced fighter jets — landed on past a photograph of Abe and Putin shak- Peninsula on Etorofu for the first time, prompting a ing hands and spy Kunashiri through Hokkaido toward Japanese protest. binoculars. Kunashiri Island. Last summer, Putin said demilitariza- tion of the islands should be considered in Kimio Waki, 77, who was born on Ku- PHOTOS BY nashiri but expelled to Hokkaido with his SETH ROBSON the context of reducing tension throughout family at age 7, came to the lookout on Oct. Stars and Stripes the region, according to Kyodo News. 10 to talk to reporters about his former He also expressed concern that the is- home. 1956 but have remained in Russian control needed iodine to treat people affected by lands could be armed by the U.S. military Waki has fond memories of his days on due to the dispute over the other islands. the Chernobyl nuclear accident in 1986, he if they were returned, according to Japan’s Kunashiri, although he said it was a shock said. Asahi newspaper. when Soviet soldiers arrived to search his Local issues Street signs in Hokkaido’s largest “A U.S. missile defense system may be family home. fishing town, Nemuro, are in Japanese, deployed,” Putin said, according to Asahi. “I’d never seen people other than Japa- Rausu mayor Minoru Minatoya said English and Cyrillic script — a courtesy “Russia cannot accept that.” nese,” he said. “We had no information the Russian presence to the north causes to visitors from the north who have been The disputed islands form a strategic on the island, so we didn’t know the war many issues for locals. coming there on ships since the last days barrier around the Sea of Okhotsk, consid- started and ended.” Fishermen who cross a line dividing the of the Soviet Union brought new freedoms ered a safe location for Russian military Waki recalled fishing in local streams, strait between Hokkaido and Kunashiri to Russians. submarines to shelter from potential riding a horse to school to avoid bears and are detained and their boats impounded. The areas that Russia had agreed to adversaries, according to James Brown, playing with Russian kids who arrived There have even been shooting incidents return comprise just 7 percent of the dis- an international affairs expert at Temple with the occupiers. on the border, he said. White Japan Coast puted land but 38 percent of the disputed University’s Japan campus. “We felt like we were living in a peace- Guard ships are a common sight offshore sea territory, Nemuro mayor Masatoshi So, the prospect of returning islands that ful time,” he said. or in local ports along Hokkaido’s north- Ishigaki said. guard entry points to the sea to a nation After his family was sent to Hokkaido east coast. His town, established in 1869, is like a that hosts U.S. forces likely doesn’t sound they settled in Rausu, where they could The divided control over the waters mother city for the northern territories like a smart move to Russian military work as fishermen and see their former offshore makes it difficult for authori- and home to many of their expelled resi- planners, he said. home, he said. ties to manage fisheries since they don’t dents, he said. Locals say they don’t notice military ex- Waki has returned to Kunashiri several know how much Russian vessels catch on One of them, Hirotoshi Kawata, 84, fled ercises or activity associated with the area times in recent years under a program their side of the strait. In recent years, the Habomai with his family at age 11 after but they’re aware of its strategic value. that allows visa-free visits by former resi- local fishery has declined dramatically, the Russians arrived. He recalled Soviet Russia seemed to be taking a diplomatic dents. He said the area has changed. although it’s hard to say if that’s due to troops barging into his home and asking approach when it excluded the disputed “These islands are becoming more Rus- overfishing, Minatoya said. for sake and looking for Americans. territory from last month’s massive Vostok sian and there are many new structures,” The territorial dispute also affects ce- “We left everything behind, including 2018 military drills with China. But the he said. tacean researchers who come to the area our fishing boats, so we had to start from Russians held live-fire training on the It’s not certain that expelled islanders to observe large pods of killer whales but scratch,” he said. “We slept in barns and it islands this month, prompting complaints would go back, even if Russia returned can’t follow them into Russian waters, he took us 10 years to get a house.” from Japan, Brown said. what was taken, Waki said. added. Another former islander living in The Japanese and Russians have agreed “Their average age is 83, and it’s Each year, 160,000 visitors come to see Nemuro, Yoi Hasegawa, 87, left Etorofu to engage in joint economic development more comfortable for them with better Japan’s northern territories from Hok- at age 14. She recalled a kind of paradise of the area in five areas — aquaculture, infrastructure on Hokkaido,” he said. kaido, Minatoya said. where food was plentiful and “nobody got agriculture, tourism, green energy and “But I would like to visit the islands “It should be mandatory for Japanese sick.” She’s been back but doesn’t like the waste management, he said. freely. I would like to visit my ancestors’ lawmakers to come here and see the controlled visits and limits on where she Japan hopes that will lead to a resolu- cemetery.” islands,” he said, noting that Japan’s other can roam. tion of the territorial dispute, although The former islanders want the territory territorial disputes with China and South At nearby Cape Nosappu, the shoreline is Brown is skeptical that Russia would ever restored to Japan, Waki added. Korea concern remote islands that people cluttered with monuments related to the consider returning all the territory. “Our demand is that all the islands can’t easily visit. islands, including the Habomais, slightly At the Eastern Economic Forum in should be returned together,” he said, The only resource that the Japanese more than 4 miles offshore. Vladivostok on Sept. 12, Putin appealed to rejecting the suggestion that Russia might can harvest from the islands to the north There’s a massive but weather-beaten Abe to sign a peace treaty without prereq- give back only the two smallest islands is kelp, which was negotiated with the white lookout tower — impressive steel uisites, but the Japanese didn’t take up the — Shikotan and Habomai — which the Soviets, he said. arch, stone and wood markers bearing offer due to the island dispute. Soviet Union agreed to return when it Russians don’t eat kelp. The only time Japanese inscriptions extolling the return [email protected] restored diplomatic relations with Japan in they took it from the area was when they of the lost territory. Twitter: @SethRobson1 Friday, October 26, 2018 •STARS AND STRIPES• F3HIJKLM PAGE 7

MILITARY Navy recovers oil from sunken Nazi warship

BY ERIK SLAVIN Stars and Stripes Navy divers finished recover- ing an estimated 250,000 gallons of oil Monday from a captured warship that survived World War II and two atomic bomb tests before sinking 72 years ago. The oil extraction from the Prinz Eugen, one of the few WWII German cruisers to be surrendered to the Allies intact, began Sept. 1 off Enubuj Island, a part of Kwajalein Atoll, Marshall Islands. Mobile Diving Salvage Unit 1, with support from the USNS Salvor and the commercial tanker Humber, recovered 97 percent of the oil aboard Prinz Eugen, a Navy statement said. The oil was removed due to fears first discussed in a 1974 U.S. government report that a typhoon could strike the area and cause a major environmental disaster. It was unclear from the state- ment whether any significant amount of oil has leaked since the ship sank; however, there are no longer any active leaks, said Lt. Cmdr. Tim Emge, who headed the salvage operation for the Navy. The waters in the region are known for their vibrant coral reefs and aquatic life. Two years of preparation “enabled our suc- cess in this very important mis- Photos courtesy of the U.S. Navy sion to protect the pristine waters Navy divers from Mobile Diving Salvage Unit 1 remove fuel oil from the capsized World War II German cruiser Prinz Eugen near Kwajalein of Kwajalein Atoll from the risk Atoll, Marshall Islands, on Oct. 12. of a catastrophic oil release,” said Stephanie Bocek, project man- ager at the Navy’s Supervisor of just prior to WWII and sailed The ship survived relatively Salvage and Diving command. along with the battleship USS intact but began leaking. Prinz The salvage team placed nine Bismarck in May 1941 during Eugen was deemed too radioac- anchors to hold the two support the Battle of the Denmark Strait. tive to repair. Months later, it ships over the wreck. Divers The two ships combined to sink sank in shallow water after being then drilled holes on top of each the battle cruiser HMS Hood, towed to Kwajalein, which is now oil tank in a process called “hot the pride of the British navy, home to a U.S. Army garrison and tapping.” and damaged the new battleship a ballistic missile test site. “Hot tapping allows us to safely HMS Prince of Wales in a defeat The rusting wreck, which has tie into the many tanks without that sent shockwaves through the since been taken over by marine leakage by creating a secure world at the time. life, sits upside down with its opening to place the valve, hot Days later, British warships two propellers and rudder stick- tap machine and pipe for pump- and bombers cornered and de- ing out of the water. In the past ing from the highest point on the stroyed the Bismarck. But Prinz several years, the atoll — lo- tank,” Emge said. Eugen had been diverted else- cated 2,400 miles southwest of The Prinz Eugen began service where and continued service in Hawaii — has become a popular the Baltic. After the German sur- wreck diving site. render in 1945, the British took The U.S. transferred owner- control and then turned the ship ship of the cruiser to the Marshall Correction over to the U.S. Navy, after which Islands government in 1986. In it became the USS Prinz Eugen. 2010, the Marshall Islands re- An Oct. 19 article about It sailed with dozens of other quested the U.S. provide technical future plans for Tyndall Air ships to Bikini Atoll in 1946, support and funding for the fuel Force Base in Florida should where the U.S. conducted two removal. The Army funded the Above: The salvage team placed nine anchors to hold the two have said Kelsie Perez is atomic bomb tests in July 1946. oil removal after congressional support ships over the wreck. Below: The Prinz Eugen survived active in multiple spouse Prinz Eugen anchored about authorization during fiscal year relatively intact during the Baker nuclear test in July 1946 at Bikini Facebook groups at Osan Air 1,000 yards from the center of the 2018. Atoll. The ship is at the right edge of the mushroom cloud. Base in South Korea. explosion in at least once of the [email protected] tests. Twitter: @eslavin_stripes

Max D. Lederer Jr., Publisher This publication is a compilation of stories from Stars and Stripes, the editorially independent newspaper authorized by the Department of Defense Terry Leonard, Editor for members of the military community. Robert H. Reid, Senior Managing Editor The contents of Stars and Stripes are unofficial, and are not to be consid- ered as the official views of, or endorsed by, the U.S. government, including Tina Croley, Managing Editor for Content the Defense Department or the military services. The Guam Edition of Stars Doreen Wright, Guam Edition Editor and Stripes is published jointly by Stars and Stripes and this newspaper. Michael Davidson, Revenue Director The appearance of advertising in this publication, including inserts or supplements, does not constitute endorsement by the Department of De- CONTACT US fense or Stars and Stripes of the products or services advertised. Products or services advertised in this publication shall be made avail- 633 3rd Street NW, Suite 116, Washington, D.C. 20001 able for purchase, use, or patronage without regard to race, color, religion, Editorial: (202) 761-0900 sex, national origin, age, marital status, physical handicap, political affilia- Advertising: (202) 761-0910 tion, or any other nonmerit factor of the purchaser, user, or patron. Additional contact information: stripes.com © Stars and Stripes, 2018 Courtesy U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service PAGE 8 F3HIJKLM •STARS AND STRIPES• Friday, October 26, 2018