English Chutneys Rich and complex in flavor, these sweet-and-savory preserves are easy to make

BY RICHARD CAWLEY

istorically, we Brit- smooth, jamlike texture. That’s why it’s essential Hish have scorned the to make chutney in a large, open, noncorrosive fancy cooking techniques and saucepan that has a heavy base. Such a pan will en- elaborate sauces of our European sure the chutney won’t burn, despite the high heat neighbors. Britons preferred simple— and heavy sugar content. To speed vinegar evapo- though often bland—preparations for ration, never cover the saucepan with a lid. Gen- our meat, fish, and game. We dodged di- erally, a chutney is ready when it has reduced in etary blandness with chutneys, volume by about one-third. To test for the proper which added extra flavor and spice consistency, run a spoon across the surface of the to dishes after they were on the chutney to make a channel. If the imprint stays for table—and possibly helped to a few seconds without filling with liquid vinegar, disguise the poor flavor of the chutney is sufficiently thick and ready to be inferior meats. poured into jars. Just as chutneys Good chutney requires patience. If you sample improve with age, so has the your chutney immediately after cooking, it will taste chutney’s culinary harsh and vinegary. Chutney needs at least several standing. Chut- weeks (preferably several months) for the flavors to neys’ complex develop and mellow. To give chutney the time it flavors now do needs, it should be canned (see Basics, p. 72). An- more than enliven other good source for canning information is Delia boring food; they’re ap- Smith’s Complete Cookery Course, which is published pealing on their own merits. by BBC Books (ISBN 0-563-36249-9). It’s distrib- uted by Parkwest Publications, 451 Communipaw MAKING CHUTNEY: Ave., Jersey City, NJ 07304; 201/432-3257. SIMMER, WAIT, AND SERVE Unlike preserves such as jellies and Refreshing Lemon jams, which can be temperamental in their jelling, DARK FRUIT CHUTNEY When matured, this chutney is rich and complex in flavor. Chutney is simple chutneys are quite cooperative. No matter what Yields 4 pounds (about 61⁄2 cups). and delicious. chutney you make, success is as simple as chop- 2 lb. cooking apples, peeled, cored, and chopped fine Chutneys require only ping the fruits and vegetables, then slowly sim- (about 51⁄2 cups) the patience for an mering the ingredients. There’s never any fear the 1⁄2 cup (4 oz.) dark brown sugar, firmly packed 1 extended simmering chutneys won’t properly thicken. The long sim- ⁄2 cup molasses 2 tsp. salt and a month’s aging. mering means the ingredients cook down, the 1⁄2 tsp. cayenne vinegar evaporates, the sugar caramelizes—and 21⁄2 cups brown malt vinegar the chutney thickens. The vinegar leaves its tart 1⁄2 lb. onions (2 medium), chopped 1 1 flavor behind, but this is pleasantly counter- 1 ⁄2 cups ( ⁄2 lb.) dark raisins balanced by chutney’s high sugar content. Both Put the apples in a large, heavy-based saucepan with the 1 the sugar and vinegar also act as preservatives, giv- brown sugar, molasses, salt, cayenne, and 1 ⁄4 cups of the ing chutneys a long shelf life. vinegar. Bring to a boil and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 25 min. or until the apples have As the chutney cooks, some of the fruit will re- turned to pulp.

main intact, while the rest cooks down to a Remove from the heat and add the onions, raisins, Photos: Susan Kahn

62 FINE COOKING Copyright © 1994 - 2007 The Taunton Press 1⁄4 tsp. allspice 1⁄4 tsp. cinnamon 1⁄4 tsp. nutmeg 1 cup (6 oz.) mixed dried fruit, diced (I use apricots and prunes) Chutney makes an ordinary sandwich Working over a bowl to capture any juice, carefully remove the peel and stone from each mango. Cut the mango flesh extraordinary. Dark into 1⁄4-in. dice and put it in the juice-capturing bowl. You Fruit Chutney (right) is should have about 31⁄4 cups. also an excellent Gently heat the vinegar in a large, heavy-based sauce- accompaniment to pan with the sugar and salt, stirring occasionally until the sausages and stews. sugar and salt dissolve. You can make Mango Add the jalapeño, garlic, ginger, mango flesh, reserved juices, the spices, and the dried fruit to the Chutney (below) hot vinegar mixture. Bring this mixture to a boil or mild, depending on and then turn down the heat to the whether or not you in- lowest possible level. Simmer un- clude the seeds when covered, stirring occasionally, for you add the chopped 40 min. While the chutney is still hot, pour it into sterilized jars, jalapeño pepper. cover tightly, allow to cool, and refrigerate. It will be ready to use in a month.

LEMON CHUTNEY This chutney has the look of a pale marmalade. It’s the perfect relish for hot salmon. Yields 2 to 3 pounds (about 23⁄4 cups). 3 large lemons (about 1 lb.), rinsed 1 large, mild onion, such as a Vidalia, chopped fine (about 3⁄4 cup) 1 firm, crisp, sweet apple, such as a Gala, peeled, cored, and chopped fine (about 1 cup) 1-in. piece fresh, peeled ginger, grated or chopped fine (about 2 Tbs.) 3⁄4 cup (4 oz.) golden raisins 3⁄4 cup sugar 1 cup white-wine or cider vinegar 2 tsp. salt Use a vegetable peeler to carefully remove all the zest from the lemons. Be careful to not include any of the bitter white pith with the zest. Cut the zest into julienne strips. Set aside. Working over a bowl to capture any juice, use a small, thin, sharp knife to remove the white pith from the lemons. Discard the pith. Cut each lemon in half and remove and discard the seeds. Chop the lemon flesh. and the remaining vinegar to the apple mixture. Stir well Put the chopped lemon, lemon zest, any captured to combine. lemon juice, and the onion, apple, ginger, raisins, sugar, While the chutney is still hot, pour it into sterilized jars, vinegar, and salt into a medium, heavy-based saucepan. cover tightly, and allow to cool. Refrigerate for at least Bring to a boil and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, four weeks before eating. for 30 min. The mixture may seem a little runny, but it will thicken as it cools. SWEET MANGO CHUTNEY While still hot, pour the chutney into sterilized jars, Choose mangoes that are large, fully developed, and still firm cover tightly, allow to cool, and refrigerate. It will be ready to the touch. Yields 4 pounds (about 6 cups). to use in a month. 1 2 ⁄2 lb. mangoes 1 1 ⁄4 cups white-wine vinegar 3 cups sugar Richard Cawley hails from Yorkshire, England, where 1 tsp. salt he learned to cook the best of British fare. He now 1 fresh jalapeño, cored, seeded, and chopped fine divides his time between London and the south of 2 cloves garlic, chopped fine 1-in. piece fresh, peeled ginger, grated or chopped fine France. He is the author of seven cookbooks on English (about 2 Tbs.) and other cuisines. •

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 1994 63 Copyright © 1994 - 2007 The Taunton Press