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Approxima All Acciden the 100M Sing, and the Ridge

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Approxima All Acciden the 100M Sing, and the Ridge Preparation Equipment Information Supported bye: Supported To attempt Mont Blanc with a good Part of the expedition means finding the right equipment, Conditions change quickly in the mountains and the chance of success, experience of high remembering the essentials without weighing yourself weather changes even faster. To make the right deci- 1 mountains, regular training and 2 down with the superfluous. 3 sions, you have to have the right information and preparation are essential. Good know how to interpret it with a critical mind. guides are also a decisive factor. As well as clothing suitable for high altitude condi- tions and extremely cold temperatures (including . Weather and mountain conditions: www.coordination-montagne.fr spare gloves), the equipment is that High mountain office: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 08; www.chamoniarde.com 4 76 51 75 41 41 75 51 76 4 +33(0) In terms of physical preparation for this sum- Psychologically, of a mountaineer on a glacier Meteo France weather forecast: (France only) 08 99 71 02 74; www.meteofrance.com 3, rue Raoul Blanchard, 38000 Grenoble. 38000 Blanchard, Raoul rue 3, (ice axe, crampons, harness, rope, etc.). Aosta Valley weather forecast: (+39) 0165 272 333; www.regione.vda.it Maison de la Montagne la de Maison mit, you should not only be in good physical you must be prepared for bad nights and long Swiss mountain bulletin: (+41) 0900900 162 168; www.meteosuisse.admin.ch La Coordination Montagne Coordination La condition, but also have tested your days in a fabulous, but hostile, different and Chamonix mountain gendarmes: +33 (0)4 50 55 33 72 level of fitness at altitude. A first expe- changing environment. Remember that you must Foundation. What about rience of an easier “4,000” and at least one be prepared: me... can I . Refuges and huts: En Passant par la Montagne, Sportsnature.org research network, the Mountain Biker’s Biker’s Mountain the network, research Sportsnature.org Montagne, la par Passant En night spent recently at more than 3,000m will Preparing your expedition means studying . To protect yourself: helmet, come too? Tête Rousse: +33 (0)4 50 58 24 97; booking is compulsory: refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr (association of mountain and cross country ski centres), CIPRA, the Petzl Foundation, Foundation, Petzl the CIPRA, centres), ski country cross and mountain of (association give you a better idea of your real condition. the terrain by reading maps, topoguides and glasses, sun-cream (avalanche trans- Goûter: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 93; booking is compulsory: refugedugouter.ffcam.fr sports centres), GTA (Grande Traversée des Alpes), MW (Mountain Wilderness), ANCEF ANCEF Wilderness), (Mountain MW Alpes), des Traversée (Grande GTA centres), sports expedition reports. ceiver, shovel and probe, depending Tré la tête: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 68; www.trelatete.com canyoning professionals), SNAM (union of mountain monitors), UCPA (union of outdoor outdoor of (union UCPA monitors), mountain of (union SNAM professionals), canyoning Gonella: (+39) 0165 885 101; www.rifugiogonella.com The techniques you will need A club can help you to find a partner for on your route and local conditions). of mountain guides), SNGRGE (refuge warden union), SNAPEC (union of climbing and and climbing of (union SNAPEC union), warden (refuge SNGRGE guides), mountain of Monzino: (+39) 0165 809 553 - To find your way: ration), FFRP (French hiking federation), GHM, (high mountain group), SNGM (union (union SNGM group), mountain (high GHM, federation), hiking (French FFRP ration), to know include knowing how to your expedition, an initial experience . Cosmiques: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 16 federation of mountain climbing clubs), FFME (French mountain and climbing fede climbing and mountain (French FFME clubs), climbing mountain of federation use crampons, how to climb in and training courses. map, topo, compass, altime- Grands Mulets: +33 (0)4 50 53 57 10 activities (Coordination Montagne), created in January 2012, comprises: FFCAM (French (French FFCAM comprises: 2012, January in created Montagne), (Coordination activities varied terrain and cross ridges, A professional guide can advise, pre- ter, whistle, headlamp (GPS). Conscrits: +33 (0)4 79 89 09 03 The national coordination committee for the development of mountain and climbing climbing and mountain of development the for committee coordination national The and being able to adjust your pare and supervise you, taking on . To eat and drink: food Durier: +33 (0)6 89 53 25 10 rope (long on the glacier, short responsibility for the expedition. rations, hot drinks. Texts: Olivier Obin, Niels Martin and Philippe Descamps Philippe and Martin Niels Obin, Olivier Texts: Lifts: along the ridges, etc.). For rescue operations: . Photos: Mario Colonel Mario Photos: Opening hours: www.compagniedumontblanc.fr crevasse rescue kit (5 karabiners, Map: JM Boudou JM Map: Aiguille du Midi cable car: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 75 3 ice screws, self-locking pulley, 2 Bellevue cable car: +33 (0)4 50 54 70 93 Layout and illustrations: Bérengère Collas Bérengère illustrations: and Layout rope clamps, sling, cordelette), Mont-Blanc tramway: +33 (0)4 50 47 51 83 Finding a club: telephone or radio, appropriate Tourist information: and climbing activities. climbing and . www.thebmc.co.uk; www.alpine-club.org.uk; www.americanalpineclub.org first aid kit. Chamonix: +33 (0)4 50 53 00 24; www.chamonix.com coordination committee for the development of mountain mountain of development the for committee coordination Finding a professional guide: Les Houches-Servoz: +33 (0)4 50 55 50 62; www.leshouches.com This document was devised and produced by the national national the by produced and devised was document This In France: www.sngm.fr Saint-Gervais-les-Bains: +33 (0)4 50 47 76 08; www.saintgervais.com In Aosta Valley: www.guidealtamontagna.com Val Montjoie: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 58; www.lescontamines.com In Switzerland: www.4000plus-vs.ch Vallée d’Aoste: (+39) 0165 842 060; www.lovevda.it Valais: (+41) 27 783 2717 ; www.st-bernard.ch + The hazards of the Risk aggravating Risk reducing factors: factors: If an accident occurs normal route + The Goûter couloir is where most of the .Temperatures above zero. Temperatures below zero. If you see an accident, you must take the usual .Dry air: nice, sunny weather. more serious accidents occur. Cloudy weather, with little sun. The presence emergency precautions: The most critical time is of snow in the couloir has no influence on the Old refuge New refuge between regularity of rock falls. However, it does help to prevent other blocks being pulled down !!PROTECT 11am and 1.30pm. and rocks rebounding along the couloir. Before doing anything else, prevent further accidents by protecting others. Payot ridge Ridge Never move a casualty unless he/she is in direct, imminent danger, in which For more information: case, be careful to keep the torso/neck/ head aligned and Dial www. petzl-foundation.org protect against the cold. 112 Couloir ALERT crossing Tête Rousse glacier How to cross the .If the snow means your crampons hold Telephone network and radio coverage (150MHz) . is generally good in the Mont Blanc area. Goûter couloir? well, you may not need the cable. Otherwise, use the cable according to If neither work, send a messenger (not alone As with all the other parts of the routes, recommendations (attached with a suitable if possible) to inform the nearest refuge or assessing the current conditions remains technique, using a “floating” karabiner find an alert area. an essential factor when choosing the tech- between two members of the roped party). A single emergency number: From 1990 to 2011, 74 people died and Most are caused by a climber falling, often niques to be implemented. The main 180 were injured along this route, between the directly or indirectly related to a principles to be remembered include: 112 FIRST AID Tête Rousse and Goûter refuges. rock fall. In relation to traffic, there are Studies are underway to attempt to limit the .Always wear a helmet and stay While waiting for the rescue team to arrive, you may at least as many accidents on the way down, roped together. high risk presented by rock falls. have to take action quickly to open the casualty’s airway, stop bleeding, give CPR particularly along the ridge. We also know that if the heart is not beating, secure a conscious or unconscious casualty. These are In its current state, mountaineers must be .Prepare your equipment a good distance two thirds of all casualties were not roped, and reactions that must be learned. All mountaineers should have appropriate first aid aware of the dangers of this itinerary and be before crossing the couloir and not close to that fewer accidents involve people accompa- training. prepared to face them. its edges, which are highly exposed. nied by a professional guide. A study carried Guide the emergency team by forming a “Y” (yes) with raised arms or by signalling Approximately half of out in summer 2011 concerning the couloir .Check current conditions before deciding SOS with a torch or mobile phone screen at night. Depending on the terrain, try to alone estimated that one thousand of the all accidents occur along whether or not to cross the couloir. clear a landing area. the 100m couloir cros- estimated 17,000 crossings of the couloir were When the helicopter arrives, stay where you are and wait for further instructions. sing, and one third along affected by rock fall. While rock falls can occur .If possible, keep a lookout from a sheltered at any time of day or season, certain factors position for the roped party before you. .Along the ridge, use the cables and their the ridge. can aggravate or reduce the risk.
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