Preparation Equipment Information Supported bye: Supported To attempt Mont Blanc with a good Part of the expedition means finding the right equipment, Conditions change quickly in the mountains and the chance of success, experience of high remembering the essentials without weighing yourself weather changes even faster. To make the right deci- 1 mountains, regular training and 2 down with the superfluous. 3 sions, you have to have the right information and preparation are essential. Good know how to interpret it with a critical mind. guides are also a decisive factor. As well as clothing suitable for high altitude condi- tions and extremely cold temperatures (including

. Weather and mountain conditions:

www.coordination-montagne.fr spare gloves), the equipment is that High mountain office: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 08; www.chamoniarde.com 4 76 51 75 41 41 75 51 76 4

+33(0) In terms of physical preparation for this sum- Psychologically, of a mountaineer on a glacier Meteo France weather forecast: (France only) 08 99 71 02 74; www.meteofrance.com

3, rue Raoul Blanchard, 38000 Grenoble. 38000 Blanchard, Raoul rue 3, (ice axe, crampons, harness, rope, etc.). Aosta Valley weather forecast: (+39) 0165 272 333; www.regione.vda.it Maison de la Montagne la de Maison mit, you should not only be in good physical you must be prepared for bad nights and long

Swiss mountain bulletin: (+41) 0900900 162 168; www.meteosuisse.admin.ch La Coordination Montagne Coordination La condition, but also have tested your days in a fabulous, but hostile, different and Chamonix mountain gendarmes: +33 (0)4 50 55 33 72

level of fitness at altitude. A first expe- changing environment. Remember that you must Foundation. What about

rience of an easier “4,000” and at least one be prepared: me... can I . Refuges and huts:

En Passant par la Montagne, Sportsnature.org research network, the Mountain Biker’s Biker’s Mountain the network, research Sportsnature.org Montagne, la par Passant En night spent recently at more than 3,000m will Preparing your expedition means studying . To protect yourself: helmet, come too? Tête Rousse: +33 (0)4 50 58 24 97; booking is compulsory: refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr

(association of mountain and cross country ski centres), CIPRA, the Petzl Foundation, Foundation, Petzl the CIPRA, centres), ski country cross and mountain of (association give you a better idea of your real condition. the terrain by reading maps, topoguides and glasses, sun-cream (avalanche trans- Goûter: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 93; booking is compulsory: refugedugouter.ffcam.fr

sports centres), GTA (Grande Traversée des Alpes), MW (Mountain Wilderness), ANCEF ANCEF Wilderness), (Mountain MW Alpes), des Traversée (Grande GTA centres), sports expedition reports. ceiver, shovel and probe, depending Tré la tête: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 68; www.trelatete.com canyoning professionals), SNAM (union of mountain monitors), UCPA (union of outdoor outdoor of (union UCPA monitors), mountain of (union SNAM professionals), canyoning Gonella: (+39) 0165 885 101; www.rifugiogonella.com

The techniques you will need A club can help you to find a partner for on your route and local conditions).

of mountain guides), SNGRGE (refuge warden union), SNAPEC (union of climbing and and climbing of (union SNAPEC union), warden (refuge SNGRGE guides), mountain of Monzino: (+39) 0165 809 553

- To find your way:

ration), FFRP (French hiking federation), GHM, (high mountain group), SNGM (union (union SNGM group), mountain (high GHM, federation), hiking (French FFRP ration), to know include knowing how to your expedition, an initial experience . Cosmiques: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 16

federation of mountain climbing clubs), FFME (French mountain and climbing fede climbing and mountain (French FFME clubs), climbing mountain of federation use crampons, how to climb in and training courses. map, topo, compass, altime- Grands Mulets: +33 (0)4 50 53 57 10

activities (Coordination Montagne), created in January 2012, comprises: FFCAM (French (French FFCAM comprises: 2012, January in created Montagne), (Coordination activities varied terrain and cross ridges, A professional guide can advise, pre- ter, whistle, headlamp (GPS). Conscrits: +33 (0)4 79 89 09 03 The national coordination committee for the development of mountain and climbing climbing and mountain of development the for committee coordination national The and being able to adjust your pare and supervise you, taking on . To eat and drink: food Durier: +33 (0)6 89 53 25 10

rope (long on the glacier, short responsibility for the expedition. rations, hot drinks. Texts: Olivier Obin, Niels Martin and Philippe Descamps Philippe and Martin Niels Obin, Olivier Texts: Lifts:

along the ridges, etc.). . For rescue operations: . Photos: Mario Colonel Mario Photos: Opening hours: www.compagniedumontblanc.fr

crevasse rescue kit (5 karabiners, Map: JM Boudou JM Map: Aiguille du Midi cable car: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 75

3 ice screws, self-locking pulley, 2 Bellevue cable car: +33 (0)4 50 54 70 93 Layout and illustrations: Bérengère Collas Bérengère illustrations: and Layout rope clamps, sling, cordelette), Mont-Blanc tramway: +33 (0)4 50 47 51 83

Finding a club: telephone or radio, appropriate Tourist information: and climbing activities. climbing and .

www.thebmc.co.uk; www.alpine-club.org.uk; www.americanalpineclub.org first aid kit. Chamonix: +33 (0)4 50 53 00 24; www.chamonix.com

coordination committee for the development of mountain mountain of development the for committee coordination Finding a professional guide: Les Houches-Servoz: +33 (0)4 50 55 50 62; www.leshouches.com This document was devised and produced by the national national the by produced and devised was document This In France: www.sngm.fr Saint-Gervais-les-Bains: +33 (0)4 50 47 76 08; www.saintgervais.com In Aosta Valley: www.guidealtamontagna.com Val Montjoie: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 58; www.lescontamines.com In Switzerland: www.4000plus-vs.ch Vallée d’Aoste: (+39) 0165 842 060; www.lovevda.it Valais: (+41) 27 783 2717 ; www.st-bernard.ch + The hazards of the Risk aggravating Risk reducing factors: factors: If an accident occurs normal route The Goûter couloir is where most of the .Temperatures above zero. . Temperatures below zero. If you see an accident, you must take the usual .Dry air: nice, sunny weather. more serious accidents occur. . Cloudy weather, with little sun. The presence emergency precautions: The most critical time is of snow in the couloir has no influence on the Old refuge New refuge between regularity of rock falls. However, it does help to prevent other blocks being pulled down !!PROTECT 11am and 1.30pm. and rocks rebounding along the couloir. Before doing anything else, prevent further accidents by protecting others. Payot ridge Ridge Never move a casualty unless he/she is in direct, imminent danger, in which For more information: case, be careful to keep the torso/neck/ head aligned and Dial www. petzl-foundation.org protect against the cold. 112 Couloir ALERT crossing Tête Rousse glacier How to cross the .If the snow means your crampons hold Telephone network and radio coverage (150MHz) . is generally good in the Mont Blanc area. Goûter couloir? well, you may not need the cable. Otherwise, use the cable according to If neither work, send a messenger (not alone As with all the other parts of the routes, recommendations (attached with a suitable if possible) to inform the nearest refuge or assessing the current conditions remains technique, using a “floating” karabiner find an alert area. an essential factor when choosing the tech- between two members of the roped party). A single emergency number: From 1990 to 2011, 74 people died and Most are caused by a climber falling, often niques to be implemented. The main 180 were injured along this route, between the directly or indirectly related to a principles to be remembered include: 112 FIRST AID Tête Rousse and Goûter refuges. rock fall. In relation to traffic, there are Studies are underway to attempt to limit the .Always wear a helmet and stay While waiting for the rescue team to arrive, you may at least as many accidents on the way down, roped together. high risk presented by rock falls. have to take action quickly to open the casualty’s airway, stop bleeding, give CPR particularly along the ridge. We also know that if the heart is not beating, secure a conscious or unconscious casualty. These are In its current state, mountaineers must be .Prepare your equipment a good distance two thirds of all casualties were not roped, and reactions that must be learned. All mountaineers should have appropriate first aid aware of the dangers of this itinerary and be before crossing the couloir and not close to that fewer accidents involve people accompa- training. prepared to face them. its edges, which are highly exposed. nied by a professional guide. A study carried Guide the emergency team by forming a “Y” (yes) with raised arms or by signalling Approximately half of out in summer 2011 concerning the couloir .Check current conditions before deciding SOS with a torch or mobile phone screen at night. Depending on the terrain, try to alone estimated that one thousand of the all accidents occur along whether or not to cross the couloir. clear a landing area. the 100m couloir cros- estimated 17,000 crossings of the couloir were When the helicopter arrives, stay where you are and wait for further instructions. sing, and one third along affected by rock fall. While rock falls can occur .If possible, keep a lookout from a sheltered at any time of day or season, certain factors position for the roped party before you. .Along the ridge, use the cables and their the ridge. can aggravate or reduce the risk. Useful phone numbers: anchors for belaying – but beware, this is Valdotains alpine rescue: +39 (0)800 319 319 .Do not waste time in the couloir, but do not not a via ferrata. hurry unnecessarily either. Switzerland (Rega): 1414 or from abroad +41 333 333 333 Grandes Jorasses dent du Géant aiguille du Midi mont Blanc du Tacul mont Maudit mont Blanc dôme du Goûter aiguilles de Bionnassay 4208 m 4013 m 3842 m 4248 m 4465 m 4810 m 4304 m 4052 m refuge des refuge des Grands Mulets refuge du Goûter refuge de Tête Rousse Cosmiques 3051 m 3835 m 3167 m 3613 m

Arête du Dôme

la Jonction

Plan de l’aiguille ! Being aware of the dangers

Chamonix Do not confuse difficulty with danger. The busiest routes to Mont Blanc are not particularly demanding technically Plan de speaking. However, they involve all the dangers inherent to this environment. To limit risks, start by identifying Reaching the top of Mont Blanc 7 routes to the tip of the Alps l'Aiguille the hazards of the terrain, finding out current conditions and the capabilities of your party. A concern for climbers There is more than one way to Altitude A concern for climbers The higher you go, the less oxygen there is. St-Gervais- 3 AMS (acute mountain sickness) is a constant threat. Headaches,

reach the top of Mont Blanc. les-Bains insomnia, breathlessness, loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting… the main symptoms can appear even at 3,500m. léphérique Té There is nothing to do but turn back. Proper acclimatisation can help prevent AMS. It may be more fun, particularly during the busier periods, to take one of For us climbers, who sometimes travel thousands of kilometres to climb this summit, Cold the less traditional routes. The more technical passages demand substantial Mont Blanc is far more than just another peak to climb. It is a dream, a legend even. The amazing les Houches At high altitude, close to 5,000m, the weather can change very quickly, bringing all kinds of problems: fog, cold experience. In order of difficulty and mostly of risk exposure: TMB history of our passion has been written on these slopes. The intense efforts, unspoiled landscapes made worse by violent winds, snow, frost, storms, lightning. It is important to be able to recognise the warning Aiguille signs and to know when to retreat. and elegant peaks, the fraternity of the roped party and the confrontation with high altitude all 1.The normal route via Goûter. du Midi

contribute to making this a unique experience. We all want to share it. Alpine grade: PD (somewhat difficult). Ascent: 1450 + 1000m or 800 + 1650 éléphérique Getting lost T 2 (overnight stop at Tête Rousse) Refuge One of the main dangers of Mont Blanc is getting lost in sudden fog, particularly close to the summit or between However, this symbol of mountaineering sometimes also conveys a negative image des Cosmiques With an overnight stay at Tête Rousse, the altitude gain is higher (1650m), Refuge des the Aiguille and the Dôme du Goûter. Never set out without a map, navigation instruments and the knowledge of of our sport. The number of people on certain days, the lack of respect for the site and for other Grands Mulets Col but you will be crossing the couloir at the right time and you can stop at the du Midi how to use them. Know precisely where you are during your entire itinerary. people, failures and tragedies all contribute to this deteriorating image. If we are not careful, Goûter refuge on the way back. le Nid Falling this deterioration could result in the free access to this summit being limited. The mountain d'Aigle Mont Blanc The danger of falling increases with the steepness of the slope and the steepest areas include the Goûter ridge, The three summits. (Tacul, mont Maudit, mont Blanc). community can use its many talents to show the way to making sure that the highest point in the 2. 1 du Tacul below the Mont Maudit pass or the Bosses ridge. Although fresh snow offers serene landscapes of beautiful slopes, Alps remains exemplary and freely attainable place, by enhancing the Mont Blanc experience. Alpine grade: PD+ (somewhat difficult+). Ascent: 1200m Refuge de Refuge these same slopes become treacherous when the snow is hard. Good technique and suitable roping methods are Tête Rousse More technical and physically demanding than the normal route, this itine- du Goûter essential. Standing 4,810m high, this summit is obviously for experienced mountaineers. Aiguille rary is attracting increasing numbers of climbers. Descent via either Goûter du Gôuter˚ Such an extraordinary climb is not for just anyone. Good preparation, information and equip- or Grands Mulets. Mont Busy periods Maudit The presence of other groups is reassuring, often too much so, particularly along the normal routes. The presence ment are fundamental pre-requisites. It takes time to acquire expertise in mountaineering Dôme du Goûter˚ of other people offers a false sense of security. You happily follow in their footsteps, perhaps losing your own 3.Grands Mulets and the Dôme du Goûter ridge Piton techniques and knowledge of the mountain environment. If you want access to the untamed, Abri concentration. During the busiest periods, having to slow down and even stop for others adds further difficulties Alpine grade: PD+ (somewhat difficult +). Ascent: 700 + 1800m. Aiguilles de des Italiens Col du Vallot wilder side of nature, you must accept the risk that comes with it. In fact, the art of climbing to crossings and can increase exposure to hazards. A classic on skis and for descent, this historic route is not recommended on Bionnassay Col des Dôme les Bosses mountains resides in knowing how to reduce this risk. The first thing to do is therefore unders- foot because it means being exposed for too long to the risk of serac falls from Aiguilles MONT BLANC Extreme fatigue Grises tand nature and identify the particular dangers you will be facing in order to create suitable la Tournette Altitude, cold, height gain and lack of preparation can result in profound fatigue. It is important that group the Petit Plateau. The alternative is to climb the north ridge of the Dôme du Mont Blanc solutions. Such magnificent places are also fragile. Refuge members look out for one another. Goûter from the Goûter refuge before reaching the Vallot hut. les Contamines- Durier de Courmayeur Montjoie Refuge Col e must leave this classified site pure, respect the rules and the recommendations appli- Col de Crevasses W 4.Italian normal route (or Aiguilles Grises) Gonella Refuge Eccles Miage Q. Sella Glaciers are very broken up in parts, particularly at the Jonction. Appropriate roping techniques and crevasse cable in the refuges, take all waste home with us and use the toilets provided. Alpine grade: PD+ (somewhat difficult +). Ascent: 1300 + 1800m (or 800 + 1000m) Bivouac e rescue equipment on each harness are essential. The normal Italian route is a long and beautiful snowy itinerary on a gla- le Cugnon iag Eccles The success of your Mont Blanc experience is more than just adding this peak M Seracs Falls cier that can be complicated. Possibility of an intermediate night stop at the e Col des to your list of climbs: it also means getting back down again safely, with a head full of 5 d Glaciers move at their own, imperceptible pace. Balanced seracs can fall at any time, without warning, particularly e s Dômes Goûter refuge. m exceptional memories. Faced with a climb that is harder than anticipated, mediocre condi- D ô under the Mont Blanc du Tacul, around the Petit Plateau and the Grand Plateau. Avoid these areas or if not, at Aiguille de least do not linger there. tions or an insufficiently prepared or untrained group, turning back at the right moment 5.The Royal Traverse: Miage, Bionnassay, Mont Blanc la Bérangère Col de la Bérangère 6 Refuge Avalanches can be a form of group success. Perhaps another climb would be a better option for that Alpine grade: AD (fairly difficult) (exposed). Ascent: 1450+1100 +1650m Monzino particular day. Long expedition with sharp ridge passages that are very tricky. At altitudes like these, there is no season for snow. After a period of bad weather, extra care should be taken on gradients of more than 30°, particularly in the Goûter couloir or below Mont Blanc du Tacul. In summer, the 6.Tournette spur 7 Chalets snow cover generally stabilises more quickly. Remember to take an avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe and Freedom Alpine grade: AD (fairly difficult). Ascent: 1700 + 1400m. du Miage know when it is best to wait. means giving yourself the chance to try again. Long, exposed expedition in wild terrain; involves committed climbing with Refuge Refuge Rock falls traditional protection. de Tré - des Conscrits 4 Rock falls, whether natural or caused by other climbers, demand the greatest care, particularly whilst within the la -Tête Goûter couloir (see over). 7. Innominata ridge Alpine grade: D+ (difficult +). Ascent: 900+1500+800m. Long, exposed expedition along a complicated route.

Preparation Equipment Information Supported bye: Supported To attempt Mont Blanc with a good Part of the expedition means finding the right equipment, Conditions change quickly in the mountains and the chance of success, experience of high remembering the essentials without weighing yourself weather changes even faster. To make the right deci- 1 mountains, regular training and 2 down with the superfluous. 3 sions, you have to have the right information and preparation are essential. Good know how to interpret it with a critical mind. guides are also a decisive factor. As well as clothing suitable for high altitude condi- tions and extremely cold temperatures (including

. Weather and mountain conditions:

www.coordination-montagne.fr spare gloves), the equipment is that High mountain office: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 08; www.chamoniarde.com 4 76 51 75 41 41 75 51 76 4

+33(0) In terms of physical preparation for this sum- Psychologically, of a mountaineer on a glacier Meteo France weather forecast: (France only) 08 99 71 02 74; www.meteofrance.com

3, rue Raoul Blanchard, 38000 Grenoble. 38000 Blanchard, Raoul rue 3, (ice axe, crampons, harness, rope, etc.). Aosta Valley weather forecast: (+39) 0165 272 333; www.regione.vda.it Maison de la Montagne la de Maison mit, you should not only be in good physical you must be prepared for bad nights and long

Swiss mountain bulletin: (+41) 0900900 162 168; www.meteosuisse.admin.ch La Coordination Montagne Coordination La condition, but also have tested your days in a fabulous, but hostile, different and Chamonix mountain gendarmes: +33 (0)4 50 55 33 72

level of fitness at altitude. A first expe- changing environment. Remember that you must Foundation. What about

rience of an easier “4,000” and at least one be prepared: me... can I . Refuges and huts:

En Passant par la Montagne, Sportsnature.org research network, the Mountain Biker’s Biker’s Mountain the network, research Sportsnature.org Montagne, la par Passant En night spent recently at more than 3,000m will Preparing your expedition means studying . To protect yourself: helmet, come too? Tête Rousse: +33 (0)4 50 58 24 97; booking is compulsory: refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr

(association of mountain and cross country ski centres), CIPRA, the Petzl Foundation, Foundation, Petzl the CIPRA, centres), ski country cross and mountain of (association give you a better idea of your real condition. the terrain by reading maps, topoguides and glasses, sun-cream (avalanche trans- Goûter: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 93; booking is compulsory: refugedugouter.ffcam.fr

sports centres), GTA (Grande Traversée des Alpes), MW (Mountain Wilderness), ANCEF ANCEF Wilderness), (Mountain MW Alpes), des Traversée (Grande GTA centres), sports expedition reports. ceiver, shovel and probe, depending Tré la tête: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 68; www.trelatete.com canyoning professionals), SNAM (union of mountain monitors), UCPA (union of outdoor outdoor of (union UCPA monitors), mountain of (union SNAM professionals), canyoning Gonella: (+39) 0165 885 101; www.rifugiogonella.com

The techniques you will need A club can help you to find a partner for on your route and local conditions).

of mountain guides), SNGRGE (refuge warden union), SNAPEC (union of climbing and and climbing of (union SNAPEC union), warden (refuge SNGRGE guides), mountain of Monzino: (+39) 0165 809 553

- To find your way:

ration), FFRP (French hiking federation), GHM, (high mountain group), SNGM (union (union SNGM group), mountain (high GHM, federation), hiking (French FFRP ration), to know include knowing how to your expedition, an initial experience . Cosmiques: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 16

federation of mountain climbing clubs), FFME (French mountain and climbing fede climbing and mountain (French FFME clubs), climbing mountain of federation use crampons, how to climb in and training courses. map, topo, compass, altime- Grands Mulets: +33 (0)4 50 53 57 10

activities (Coordination Montagne), created in January 2012, comprises: FFCAM (French (French FFCAM comprises: 2012, January in created Montagne), (Coordination activities varied terrain and cross ridges, A professional guide can advise, pre- ter, whistle, headlamp (GPS). Conscrits: +33 (0)4 79 89 09 03 The national coordination committee for the development of mountain and climbing climbing and mountain of development the for committee coordination national The and being able to adjust your pare and supervise you, taking on . To eat and drink: food Durier: +33 (0)6 89 53 25 10

rope (long on the glacier, short responsibility for the expedition. rations, hot drinks. Texts: Olivier Obin, Niels Martin and Philippe Descamps Philippe and Martin Niels Obin, Olivier Texts: Lifts:

along the ridges, etc.). . For rescue operations: . Photos: Mario Colonel Mario Photos: Opening hours: www.compagniedumontblanc.fr

crevasse rescue kit (5 karabiners, Map: JM Boudou JM Map: Aiguille du Midi cable car: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 75

3 ice screws, self-locking pulley, 2 Bellevue cable car: +33 (0)4 50 54 70 93 Layout and illustrations: Bérengère Collas Bérengère illustrations: and Layout rope clamps, sling, cordelette), Mont-Blanc tramway: +33 (0)4 50 47 51 83

Finding a club: telephone or radio, appropriate Tourist information: and climbing activities. climbing and .

www.thebmc.co.uk; www.alpine-club.org.uk; www.americanalpineclub.org first aid kit. Chamonix: +33 (0)4 50 53 00 24; www.chamonix.com

coordination committee for the development of mountain mountain of development the for committee coordination Finding a professional guide: Les Houches-Servoz: +33 (0)4 50 55 50 62; www.leshouches.com This document was devised and produced by the national national the by produced and devised was document This In France: www.sngm.fr Saint-Gervais-les-Bains: +33 (0)4 50 47 76 08; www.saintgervais.com In Aosta Valley: www.guidealtamontagna.com Val Montjoie: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 58; www.lescontamines.com In Switzerland: www.4000plus-vs.ch Vallée d’Aoste: (+39) 0165 842 060; www.lovevda.it Valais: (+41) 27 783 2717 ; www.st-bernard.ch + The hazards of the Risk aggravating Risk reducing factors: factors: If an accident occurs normal route The Goûter couloir is where most of the .Temperatures above zero. . Temperatures below zero. If you see an accident, you must take the usual .Dry air: nice, sunny weather. more serious accidents occur. . Cloudy weather, with little sun. The presence emergency precautions: The most critical time is of snow in the couloir has no influence on the Old refuge New refuge between regularity of rock falls. However, it does help to prevent other blocks being pulled down !!PROTECT 11am and 1.30pm. and rocks rebounding along the couloir. Before doing anything else, prevent further accidents by protecting others. Payot ridge Ridge Never move a casualty unless he/she is in direct, imminent danger, in which For more information: case, be careful to keep the torso/neck/ head aligned and Dial www. petzl-foundation.org protect against the cold. 112 Couloir ALERT crossing Tête Rousse glacier How to cross the .If the snow means your crampons hold Telephone network and radio coverage (150MHz) . is generally good in the Mont Blanc area. Goûter couloir? well, you may not need the cable. Otherwise, use the cable according to If neither work, send a messenger (not alone As with all the other parts of the routes, recommendations (attached with a suitable if possible) to inform the nearest refuge or assessing the current conditions remains technique, using a “floating” karabiner find an alert area. an essential factor when choosing the tech- between two members of the roped party). A single emergency number: From 1990 to 2011, 74 people died and Most are caused by a climber falling, often niques to be implemented. The main 180 were injured along this route, between the directly or indirectly related to a principles to be remembered include: 112 FIRST AID Tête Rousse and Goûter refuges. rock fall. In relation to traffic, there are Studies are underway to attempt to limit the .Always wear a helmet and stay While waiting for the rescue team to arrive, you may at least as many accidents on the way down, roped together. high risk presented by rock falls. have to take action quickly to open the casualty’s airway, stop bleeding, give CPR particularly along the ridge. We also know that if the heart is not beating, secure a conscious or unconscious casualty. These are In its current state, mountaineers must be .Prepare your equipment a good distance two thirds of all casualties were not roped, and reactions that must be learned. All mountaineers should have appropriate first aid aware of the dangers of this itinerary and be before crossing the couloir and not close to that fewer accidents involve people accompa- training. prepared to face them. its edges, which are highly exposed. nied by a professional guide. A study carried Guide the emergency team by forming a “Y” (yes) with raised arms or by signalling Approximately half of out in summer 2011 concerning the couloir .Check current conditions before deciding SOS with a torch or mobile phone screen at night. Depending on the terrain, try to alone estimated that one thousand of the all accidents occur along whether or not to cross the couloir. clear a landing area. the 100m couloir cros- estimated 17,000 crossings of the couloir were When the helicopter arrives, stay where you are and wait for further instructions. sing, and one third along affected by rock fall. While rock falls can occur .If possible, keep a lookout from a sheltered at any time of day or season, certain factors position for the roped party before you. .Along the ridge, use the cables and their the ridge. can aggravate or reduce the risk. Useful phone numbers: anchors for belaying – but beware, this is Valdotains alpine rescue: +39 (0)800 319 319 .Do not waste time in the couloir, but do not not a via ferrata. hurry unnecessarily either. Switzerland (Rega): 1414 or from abroad +41 333 333 333

Preparation Equipment Information Supported bye: Supported To attempt Mont Blanc with a good Part of the expedition means finding the right equipment, Conditions change quickly in the mountains and the chance of success, experience of high remembering the essentials without weighing yourself weather changes even faster. To make the right deci- 1 mountains, regular training and 2 down with the superfluous. 3 sions, you have to have the right information and preparation are essential. Good know how to interpret it with a critical mind. guides are also a decisive factor. As well as clothing suitable for high altitude condi- tions and extremely cold temperatures (including

. Weather and mountain conditions:

www.coordination-montagne.fr spare gloves), the equipment is that High mountain office: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 08; www.chamoniarde.com 4 76 51 75 41 41 75 51 76 4

+33(0) In terms of physical preparation for this sum- Psychologically, of a mountaineer on a glacier Meteo France weather forecast: (France only) 08 99 71 02 74; www.meteofrance.com

3, rue Raoul Blanchard, 38000 Grenoble. 38000 Blanchard, Raoul rue 3, (ice axe, crampons, harness, rope, etc.). Aosta Valley weather forecast: (+39) 0165 272 333; www.regione.vda.it Maison de la Montagne la de Maison mit, you should not only be in good physical you must be prepared for bad nights and long

Swiss mountain bulletin: (+41) 0900900 162 168; www.meteosuisse.admin.ch La Coordination Montagne Coordination La condition, but also have tested your days in a fabulous, but hostile, different and Chamonix mountain gendarmes: +33 (0)4 50 55 33 72

level of fitness at altitude. A first expe- changing environment. Remember that you must Foundation. What about

rience of an easier “4,000” and at least one be prepared: me... can I . Refuges and huts:

En Passant par la Montagne, Sportsnature.org research network, the Mountain Biker’s Biker’s Mountain the network, research Sportsnature.org Montagne, la par Passant En night spent recently at more than 3,000m will Preparing your expedition means studying . To protect yourself: helmet, come too? Tête Rousse: +33 (0)4 50 58 24 97; booking is compulsory: refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr

(association of mountain and cross country ski centres), CIPRA, the Petzl Foundation, Foundation, Petzl the CIPRA, centres), ski country cross and mountain of (association give you a better idea of your real condition. the terrain by reading maps, topoguides and glasses, sun-cream (avalanche trans- Goûter: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 93; booking is compulsory: refugedugouter.ffcam.fr

sports centres), GTA (Grande Traversée des Alpes), MW (Mountain Wilderness), ANCEF ANCEF Wilderness), (Mountain MW Alpes), des Traversée (Grande GTA centres), sports expedition reports. ceiver, shovel and probe, depending Tré la tête: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 68; www.trelatete.com canyoning professionals), SNAM (union of mountain monitors), UCPA (union of outdoor outdoor of (union UCPA monitors), mountain of (union SNAM professionals), canyoning Gonella: (+39) 0165 885 101; www.rifugiogonella.com

The techniques you will need A club can help you to find a partner for on your route and local conditions).

of mountain guides), SNGRGE (refuge warden union), SNAPEC (union of climbing and and climbing of (union SNAPEC union), warden (refuge SNGRGE guides), mountain of Monzino: (+39) 0165 809 553

- To find your way:

ration), FFRP (French hiking federation), GHM, (high mountain group), SNGM (union (union SNGM group), mountain (high GHM, federation), hiking (French FFRP ration), to know include knowing how to your expedition, an initial experience . Cosmiques: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 16

federation of mountain climbing clubs), FFME (French mountain and climbing fede climbing and mountain (French FFME clubs), climbing mountain of federation use crampons, how to climb in and training courses. map, topo, compass, altime- Grands Mulets: +33 (0)4 50 53 57 10

activities (Coordination Montagne), created in January 2012, comprises: FFCAM (French (French FFCAM comprises: 2012, January in created Montagne), (Coordination activities varied terrain and cross ridges, A professional guide can advise, pre- ter, whistle, headlamp (GPS). Conscrits: +33 (0)4 79 89 09 03 The national coordination committee for the development of mountain and climbing climbing and mountain of development the for committee coordination national The and being able to adjust your pare and supervise you, taking on . To eat and drink: food Durier: +33 (0)6 89 53 25 10

rope (long on the glacier, short responsibility for the expedition. rations, hot drinks. Texts: Olivier Obin, Niels Martin and Philippe Descamps Philippe and Martin Niels Obin, Olivier Texts: Lifts:

along the ridges, etc.). . For rescue operations: . Photos: Mario Colonel Mario Photos: Opening hours: www.compagniedumontblanc.fr

crevasse rescue kit (5 karabiners, Map: JM Boudou JM Map: Aiguille du Midi cable car: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 75

3 ice screws, self-locking pulley, 2 Bellevue cable car: +33 (0)4 50 54 70 93 Layout and illustrations: Bérengère Collas Bérengère illustrations: and Layout rope clamps, sling, cordelette), Mont-Blanc tramway: +33 (0)4 50 47 51 83

Finding a club: telephone or radio, appropriate Tourist information: and climbing activities. climbing and .

www.thebmc.co.uk; www.alpine-club.org.uk; www.americanalpineclub.org first aid kit. Chamonix: +33 (0)4 50 53 00 24; www.chamonix.com

coordination committee for the development of mountain mountain of development the for committee coordination Finding a professional guide: Les Houches-Servoz: +33 (0)4 50 55 50 62; www.leshouches.com This document was devised and produced by the national national the by produced and devised was document This In France: www.sngm.fr Saint-Gervais-les-Bains: +33 (0)4 50 47 76 08; www.saintgervais.com In Aosta Valley: www.guidealtamontagna.com Val Montjoie: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 58; www.lescontamines.com In Switzerland: www.4000plus-vs.ch Vallée d’Aoste: (+39) 0165 842 060; www.lovevda.it Valais: (+41) 27 783 2717 ; www.st-bernard.ch + The hazards of the Risk aggravating Risk reducing factors: factors: If an accident occurs normal route The Goûter couloir is where most of the .Temperatures above zero. . Temperatures below zero. If you see an accident, you must take the usual .Dry air: nice, sunny weather. more serious accidents occur. . Cloudy weather, with little sun. The presence emergency precautions: The most critical time is of snow in the couloir has no influence on the Old refuge New refuge between regularity of rock falls. However, it does help to prevent other blocks being pulled down !!PROTECT 11am and 1.30pm. and rocks rebounding along the couloir. Before doing anything else, prevent further accidents by protecting others. Payot ridge Ridge Never move a casualty unless he/she is in direct, imminent danger, in which For more information: case, be careful to keep the torso/neck/ head aligned and Dial www. petzl-foundation.org protect against the cold. 112 Couloir ALERT crossing Tête Rousse glacier How to cross the .If the snow means your crampons hold Telephone network and radio coverage (150MHz) . is generally good in the Mont Blanc area. Goûter couloir? well, you may not need the cable. Otherwise, use the cable according to If neither work, send a messenger (not alone As with all the other parts of the routes, recommendations (attached with a suitable if possible) to inform the nearest refuge or assessing the current conditions remains technique, using a “floating” karabiner find an alert area. an essential factor when choosing the tech- between two members of the roped party). A single emergency number: From 1990 to 2011, 74 people died and Most are caused by a climber falling, often niques to be implemented. The main 180 were injured along this route, between the directly or indirectly related to a principles to be remembered include: 112 FIRST AID Tête Rousse and Goûter refuges. rock fall. In relation to traffic, there are Studies are underway to attempt to limit the .Always wear a helmet and stay While waiting for the rescue team to arrive, you may at least as many accidents on the way down, roped together. high risk presented by rock falls. have to take action quickly to open the casualty’s airway, stop bleeding, give CPR particularly along the ridge. We also know that if the heart is not beating, secure a conscious or unconscious casualty. These are In its current state, mountaineers must be .Prepare your equipment a good distance two thirds of all casualties were not roped, and reactions that must be learned. All mountaineers should have appropriate first aid aware of the dangers of this itinerary and be before crossing the couloir and not close to that fewer accidents involve people accompa- training. prepared to face them. its edges, which are highly exposed. nied by a professional guide. A study carried Guide the emergency team by forming a “Y” (yes) with raised arms or by signalling Approximately half of out in summer 2011 concerning the couloir .Check current conditions before deciding SOS with a torch or mobile phone screen at night. Depending on the terrain, try to alone estimated that one thousand of the all accidents occur along whether or not to cross the couloir. clear a landing area. the 100m couloir cros- estimated 17,000 crossings of the couloir were When the helicopter arrives, stay where you are and wait for further instructions. sing, and one third along affected by rock fall. While rock falls can occur .If possible, keep a lookout from a sheltered at any time of day or season, certain factors position for the roped party before you. .Along the ridge, use the cables and their the ridge. can aggravate or reduce the risk. Useful phone numbers: anchors for belaying – but beware, this is Valdotains alpine rescue: +39 (0)800 319 319 .Do not waste time in the couloir, but do not not a via ferrata. hurry unnecessarily either. Switzerland (Rega): 1414 or from abroad +41 333 333 333

Preparation Equipment Information Supported bye: Supported To attempt Mont Blanc with a good Part of the expedition means finding the right equipment, Conditions change quickly in the mountains and the chance of success, experience of high remembering the essentials without weighing yourself weather changes even faster. To make the right deci- 1 mountains, regular training and 2 down with the superfluous. 3 sions, you have to have the right information and preparation are essential. Good know how to interpret it with a critical mind. guides are also a decisive factor. As well as clothing suitable for high altitude condi- tions and extremely cold temperatures (including

. Weather and mountain conditions:

www.coordination-montagne.fr spare gloves), the equipment is that High mountain office: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 08; www.chamoniarde.com 4 76 51 75 41 41 75 51 76 4

+33(0) In terms of physical preparation for this sum- Psychologically, of a mountaineer on a glacier Meteo France weather forecast: (France only) 08 99 71 02 74; www.meteofrance.com

3, rue Raoul Blanchard, 38000 Grenoble. 38000 Blanchard, Raoul rue 3, (ice axe, crampons, harness, rope, etc.). Aosta Valley weather forecast: (+39) 0165 272 333; www.regione.vda.it Maison de la Montagne la de Maison mit, you should not only be in good physical you must be prepared for bad nights and long

Swiss mountain bulletin: (+41) 0900900 162 168; www.meteosuisse.admin.ch La Coordination Montagne Coordination La condition, but also have tested your days in a fabulous, but hostile, different and Chamonix mountain gendarmes: +33 (0)4 50 55 33 72

level of fitness at altitude. A first expe- changing environment. Remember that you must Foundation. What about

rience of an easier “4,000” and at least one be prepared: me... can I . Refuges and huts:

En Passant par la Montagne, Sportsnature.org research network, the Mountain Biker’s Biker’s Mountain the network, research Sportsnature.org Montagne, la par Passant En night spent recently at more than 3,000m will Preparing your expedition means studying . To protect yourself: helmet, come too? Tête Rousse: +33 (0)4 50 58 24 97; booking is compulsory: refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr

(association of mountain and cross country ski centres), CIPRA, the Petzl Foundation, Foundation, Petzl the CIPRA, centres), ski country cross and mountain of (association give you a better idea of your real condition. the terrain by reading maps, topoguides and glasses, sun-cream (avalanche trans- Goûter: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 93; booking is compulsory: refugedugouter.ffcam.fr

sports centres), GTA (Grande Traversée des Alpes), MW (Mountain Wilderness), ANCEF ANCEF Wilderness), (Mountain MW Alpes), des Traversée (Grande GTA centres), sports expedition reports. ceiver, shovel and probe, depending Tré la tête: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 68; www.trelatete.com canyoning professionals), SNAM (union of mountain monitors), UCPA (union of outdoor outdoor of (union UCPA monitors), mountain of (union SNAM professionals), canyoning Gonella: (+39) 0165 885 101; www.rifugiogonella.com

The techniques you will need A club can help you to find a partner for on your route and local conditions).

of mountain guides), SNGRGE (refuge warden union), SNAPEC (union of climbing and and climbing of (union SNAPEC union), warden (refuge SNGRGE guides), mountain of Monzino: (+39) 0165 809 553

- To find your way:

ration), FFRP (French hiking federation), GHM, (high mountain group), SNGM (union (union SNGM group), mountain (high GHM, federation), hiking (French FFRP ration), to know include knowing how to your expedition, an initial experience . Cosmiques: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 16

federation of mountain climbing clubs), FFME (French mountain and climbing fede climbing and mountain (French FFME clubs), climbing mountain of federation use crampons, how to climb in and training courses. map, topo, compass, altime- Grands Mulets: +33 (0)4 50 53 57 10

activities (Coordination Montagne), created in January 2012, comprises: FFCAM (French (French FFCAM comprises: 2012, January in created Montagne), (Coordination activities varied terrain and cross ridges, A professional guide can advise, pre- ter, whistle, headlamp (GPS). Conscrits: +33 (0)4 79 89 09 03 The national coordination committee for the development of mountain and climbing climbing and mountain of development the for committee coordination national The and being able to adjust your pare and supervise you, taking on . To eat and drink: food Durier: +33 (0)6 89 53 25 10

rope (long on the glacier, short responsibility for the expedition. rations, hot drinks. Texts: Olivier Obin, Niels Martin and Philippe Descamps Philippe and Martin Niels Obin, Olivier Texts: Lifts:

along the ridges, etc.). . For rescue operations: . Photos: Mario Colonel Mario Photos: Opening hours: www.compagniedumontblanc.fr

crevasse rescue kit (5 karabiners, Map: JM Boudou JM Map: Aiguille du Midi cable car: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 75

3 ice screws, self-locking pulley, 2 Bellevue cable car: +33 (0)4 50 54 70 93 Layout and illustrations: Bérengère Collas Bérengère illustrations: and Layout rope clamps, sling, cordelette), Mont-Blanc tramway: +33 (0)4 50 47 51 83

Finding a club: telephone or radio, appropriate Tourist information: and climbing activities. climbing and .

www.thebmc.co.uk; www.alpine-club.org.uk; www.americanalpineclub.org first aid kit. Chamonix: +33 (0)4 50 53 00 24; www.chamonix.com

coordination committee for the development of mountain mountain of development the for committee coordination Finding a professional guide: Les Houches-Servoz: +33 (0)4 50 55 50 62; www.leshouches.com This document was devised and produced by the national national the by produced and devised was document This In France: www.sngm.fr Saint-Gervais-les-Bains: +33 (0)4 50 47 76 08; www.saintgervais.com In Aosta Valley: www.guidealtamontagna.com Val Montjoie: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 58; www.lescontamines.com In Switzerland: www.4000plus-vs.ch Vallée d’Aoste: (+39) 0165 842 060; www.lovevda.it Valais: (+41) 27 783 2717 ; www.st-bernard.ch + The hazards of the Risk aggravating Risk reducing factors: factors: If an accident occurs normal route The Goûter couloir is where most of the .Temperatures above zero. . Temperatures below zero. If you see an accident, you must take the usual .Dry air: nice, sunny weather. more serious accidents occur. . Cloudy weather, with little sun. The presence emergency precautions: The most critical time is of snow in the couloir has no influence on the Old refuge New refuge between regularity of rock falls. However, it does help to prevent other blocks being pulled down !!PROTECT 11am and 1.30pm. and rocks rebounding along the couloir. Before doing anything else, prevent further accidents by protecting others. Payot ridge Ridge Never move a casualty unless he/she is in direct, imminent danger, in which For more information: case, be careful to keep the torso/neck/ head aligned and Dial www. petzl-foundation.org protect against the cold. 112 Couloir ALERT crossing Tête Rousse glacier How to cross the .If the snow means your crampons hold Telephone network and radio coverage (150MHz) . is generally good in the Mont Blanc area. Goûter couloir? well, you may not need the cable. Otherwise, use the cable according to If neither work, send a messenger (not alone As with all the other parts of the routes, recommendations (attached with a suitable if possible) to inform the nearest refuge or assessing the current conditions remains technique, using a “floating” karabiner find an alert area. an essential factor when choosing the tech- between two members of the roped party). A single emergency number: From 1990 to 2011, 74 people died and Most are caused by a climber falling, often niques to be implemented. The main 180 were injured along this route, between the directly or indirectly related to a principles to be remembered include: 112 FIRST AID Tête Rousse and Goûter refuges. rock fall. In relation to traffic, there are Studies are underway to attempt to limit the .Always wear a helmet and stay While waiting for the rescue team to arrive, you may at least as many accidents on the way down, roped together. high risk presented by rock falls. have to take action quickly to open the casualty’s airway, stop bleeding, give CPR particularly along the ridge. We also know that if the heart is not beating, secure a conscious or unconscious casualty. These are In its current state, mountaineers must be .Prepare your equipment a good distance two thirds of all casualties were not roped, and reactions that must be learned. All mountaineers should have appropriate first aid aware of the dangers of this itinerary and be before crossing the couloir and not close to that fewer accidents involve people accompa- training. prepared to face them. its edges, which are highly exposed. nied by a professional guide. A study carried Guide the emergency team by forming a “Y” (yes) with raised arms or by signalling Approximately half of out in summer 2011 concerning the couloir .Check current conditions before deciding SOS with a torch or mobile phone screen at night. Depending on the terrain, try to alone estimated that one thousand of the all accidents occur along whether or not to cross the couloir. clear a landing area. the 100m couloir cros- estimated 17,000 crossings of the couloir were When the helicopter arrives, stay where you are and wait for further instructions. sing, and one third along affected by rock fall. While rock falls can occur .If possible, keep a lookout from a sheltered at any time of day or season, certain factors position for the roped party before you. .Along the ridge, use the cables and their the ridge. can aggravate or reduce the risk. Useful phone numbers: anchors for belaying – but beware, this is Valdotains alpine rescue: +39 (0)800 319 319 .Do not waste time in the couloir, but do not not a via ferrata. hurry unnecessarily either. Switzerland (Rega): 1414 or from abroad +41 333 333 333

Preparation Equipment Information Supported bye: Supported To attempt Mont Blanc with a good Part of the expedition means finding the right equipment, Conditions change quickly in the mountains and the chance of success, experience of high remembering the essentials without weighing yourself weather changes even faster. To make the right deci- 1 mountains, regular training and 2 down with the superfluous. 3 sions, you have to have the right information and preparation are essential. Good know how to interpret it with a critical mind. guides are also a decisive factor. As well as clothing suitable for high altitude condi- tions and extremely cold temperatures (including

. Weather and mountain conditions:

www.coordination-montagne.fr spare gloves), the equipment is that High mountain office: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 08; www.chamoniarde.com 4 76 51 75 41 41 75 51 76 4

+33(0) In terms of physical preparation for this sum- Psychologically, of a mountaineer on a glacier Meteo France weather forecast: (France only) 08 99 71 02 74; www.meteofrance.com

3, rue Raoul Blanchard, 38000 Grenoble. 38000 Blanchard, Raoul rue 3, (ice axe, crampons, harness, rope, etc.). Aosta Valley weather forecast: (+39) 0165 272 333; www.regione.vda.it Maison de la Montagne la de Maison mit, you should not only be in good physical you must be prepared for bad nights and long

Swiss mountain bulletin: (+41) 0900900 162 168; www.meteosuisse.admin.ch La Coordination Montagne Coordination La condition, but also have tested your days in a fabulous, but hostile, different and Chamonix mountain gendarmes: +33 (0)4 50 55 33 72

level of fitness at altitude. A first expe- changing environment. Remember that you must Foundation. What about

rience of an easier “4,000” and at least one be prepared: me... can I . Refuges and huts:

En Passant par la Montagne, Sportsnature.org research network, the Mountain Biker’s Biker’s Mountain the network, research Sportsnature.org Montagne, la par Passant En night spent recently at more than 3,000m will Preparing your expedition means studying . To protect yourself: helmet, come too? Tête Rousse: +33 (0)4 50 58 24 97; booking is compulsory: refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr

(association of mountain and cross country ski centres), CIPRA, the Petzl Foundation, Foundation, Petzl the CIPRA, centres), ski country cross and mountain of (association give you a better idea of your real condition. the terrain by reading maps, topoguides and glasses, sun-cream (avalanche trans- Goûter: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 93; booking is compulsory: refugedugouter.ffcam.fr

sports centres), GTA (Grande Traversée des Alpes), MW (Mountain Wilderness), ANCEF ANCEF Wilderness), (Mountain MW Alpes), des Traversée (Grande GTA centres), sports expedition reports. ceiver, shovel and probe, depending Tré la tête: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 68; www.trelatete.com canyoning professionals), SNAM (union of mountain monitors), UCPA (union of outdoor outdoor of (union UCPA monitors), mountain of (union SNAM professionals), canyoning Gonella: (+39) 0165 885 101; www.rifugiogonella.com

The techniques you will need A club can help you to find a partner for on your route and local conditions).

of mountain guides), SNGRGE (refuge warden union), SNAPEC (union of climbing and and climbing of (union SNAPEC union), warden (refuge SNGRGE guides), mountain of Monzino: (+39) 0165 809 553

- To find your way:

ration), FFRP (French hiking federation), GHM, (high mountain group), SNGM (union (union SNGM group), mountain (high GHM, federation), hiking (French FFRP ration), to know include knowing how to your expedition, an initial experience . Cosmiques: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 16

federation of mountain climbing clubs), FFME (French mountain and climbing fede climbing and mountain (French FFME clubs), climbing mountain of federation use crampons, how to climb in and training courses. map, topo, compass, altime- Grands Mulets: +33 (0)4 50 53 57 10

activities (Coordination Montagne), created in January 2012, comprises: FFCAM (French (French FFCAM comprises: 2012, January in created Montagne), (Coordination activities varied terrain and cross ridges, A professional guide can advise, pre- ter, whistle, headlamp (GPS). Conscrits: +33 (0)4 79 89 09 03 The national coordination committee for the development of mountain and climbing climbing and mountain of development the for committee coordination national The and being able to adjust your pare and supervise you, taking on . To eat and drink: food Durier: +33 (0)6 89 53 25 10

rope (long on the glacier, short responsibility for the expedition. rations, hot drinks. Texts: Olivier Obin, Niels Martin and Philippe Descamps Philippe and Martin Niels Obin, Olivier Texts: Lifts:

along the ridges, etc.). . For rescue operations: . Photos: Mario Colonel Mario Photos: Opening hours: www.compagniedumontblanc.fr

crevasse rescue kit (5 karabiners, Map: JM Boudou JM Map: Aiguille du Midi cable car: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 75

3 ice screws, self-locking pulley, 2 Bellevue cable car: +33 (0)4 50 54 70 93 Layout and illustrations: Bérengère Collas Bérengère illustrations: and Layout rope clamps, sling, cordelette), Mont-Blanc tramway: +33 (0)4 50 47 51 83

Finding a club: telephone or radio, appropriate Tourist information: and climbing activities. climbing and .

www.thebmc.co.uk; www.alpine-club.org.uk; www.americanalpineclub.org first aid kit. Chamonix: +33 (0)4 50 53 00 24; www.chamonix.com

coordination committee for the development of mountain mountain of development the for committee coordination Finding a professional guide: Les Houches-Servoz: +33 (0)4 50 55 50 62; www.leshouches.com This document was devised and produced by the national national the by produced and devised was document This In France: www.sngm.fr Saint-Gervais-les-Bains: +33 (0)4 50 47 76 08; www.saintgervais.com In Aosta Valley: www.guidealtamontagna.com Val Montjoie: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 58; www.lescontamines.com In Switzerland: www.4000plus-vs.ch Vallée d’Aoste: (+39) 0165 842 060; www.lovevda.it Valais: (+41) 27 783 2717 ; www.st-bernard.ch + The hazards of the Risk aggravating Risk reducing factors: factors: If an accident occurs normal route The Goûter couloir is where most of the .Temperatures above zero. . Temperatures below zero. If you see an accident, you must take the usual .Dry air: nice, sunny weather. more serious accidents occur. . Cloudy weather, with little sun. The presence emergency precautions: The most critical time is of snow in the couloir has no influence on the Old refuge New refuge between regularity of rock falls. However, it does help to prevent other blocks being pulled down !!PROTECT 11am and 1.30pm. and rocks rebounding along the couloir. Before doing anything else, prevent further accidents by protecting others. Payot ridge Ridge Never move a casualty unless he/she is in direct, imminent danger, in which For more information: case, be careful to keep the torso/neck/ head aligned and Dial www. petzl-foundation.org protect against the cold. 112 Couloir ALERT crossing Tête Rousse glacier How to cross the .If the snow means your crampons hold Telephone network and radio coverage (150MHz) . is generally good in the Mont Blanc area. Goûter couloir? well, you may not need the cable. Otherwise, use the cable according to If neither work, send a messenger (not alone As with all the other parts of the routes, recommendations (attached with a suitable if possible) to inform the nearest refuge or assessing the current conditions remains technique, using a “floating” karabiner find an alert area. an essential factor when choosing the tech- between two members of the roped party). A single emergency number: From 1990 to 2011, 74 people died and Most are caused by a climber falling, often niques to be implemented. The main 180 were injured along this route, between the directly or indirectly related to a principles to be remembered include: 112 FIRST AID Tête Rousse and Goûter refuges. rock fall. In relation to traffic, there are Studies are underway to attempt to limit the .Always wear a helmet and stay While waiting for the rescue team to arrive, you may at least as many accidents on the way down, roped together. high risk presented by rock falls. have to take action quickly to open the casualty’s airway, stop bleeding, give CPR particularly along the ridge. We also know that if the heart is not beating, secure a conscious or unconscious casualty. These are In its current state, mountaineers must be .Prepare your equipment a good distance two thirds of all casualties were not roped, and reactions that must be learned. All mountaineers should have appropriate first aid aware of the dangers of this itinerary and be before crossing the couloir and not close to that fewer accidents involve people accompa- training. prepared to face them. its edges, which are highly exposed. nied by a professional guide. A study carried Guide the emergency team by forming a “Y” (yes) with raised arms or by signalling Approximately half of out in summer 2011 concerning the couloir .Check current conditions before deciding SOS with a torch or mobile phone screen at night. Depending on the terrain, try to alone estimated that one thousand of the all accidents occur along whether or not to cross the couloir. clear a landing area. the 100m couloir cros- estimated 17,000 crossings of the couloir were When the helicopter arrives, stay where you are and wait for further instructions. sing, and one third along affected by rock fall. While rock falls can occur .If possible, keep a lookout from a sheltered at any time of day or season, certain factors position for the roped party before you. .Along the ridge, use the cables and their the ridge. can aggravate or reduce the risk. Useful phone numbers: anchors for belaying – but beware, this is Valdotains alpine rescue: +39 (0)800 319 319 .Do not waste time in the couloir, but do not not a via ferrata. hurry unnecessarily either. Switzerland (Rega): 1414 or from abroad +41 333 333 333

Preparation Equipment Information Supported bye: Supported To attempt Mont Blanc with a good Part of the expedition means finding the right equipment, Conditions change quickly in the mountains and the chance of success, experience of high remembering the essentials without weighing yourself weather changes even faster. To make the right deci- 1 mountains, regular training and 2 down with the superfluous. 3 sions, you have to have the right information and preparation are essential. Good know how to interpret it with a critical mind. guides are also a decisive factor. As well as clothing suitable for high altitude condi- tions and extremely cold temperatures (including

. Weather and mountain conditions:

www.coordination-montagne.fr spare gloves), the equipment is that High mountain office: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 08; www.chamoniarde.com 4 76 51 75 41 41 75 51 76 4

+33(0) In terms of physical preparation for this sum- Psychologically, of a mountaineer on a glacier Meteo France weather forecast: (France only) 08 99 71 02 74; www.meteofrance.com

3, rue Raoul Blanchard, 38000 Grenoble. 38000 Blanchard, Raoul rue 3, (ice axe, crampons, harness, rope, etc.). Aosta Valley weather forecast: (+39) 0165 272 333; www.regione.vda.it Maison de la Montagne la de Maison mit, you should not only be in good physical you must be prepared for bad nights and long

Swiss mountain bulletin: (+41) 0900900 162 168; www.meteosuisse.admin.ch La Coordination Montagne Coordination La condition, but also have tested your days in a fabulous, but hostile, different and Chamonix mountain gendarmes: +33 (0)4 50 55 33 72

level of fitness at altitude. A first expe- changing environment. Remember that you must Foundation. What about

rience of an easier “4,000” and at least one be prepared: me... can I . Refuges and huts:

En Passant par la Montagne, Sportsnature.org research network, the Mountain Biker’s Biker’s Mountain the network, research Sportsnature.org Montagne, la par Passant En night spent recently at more than 3,000m will Preparing your expedition means studying . To protect yourself: helmet, come too? Tête Rousse: +33 (0)4 50 58 24 97; booking is compulsory: refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr

(association of mountain and cross country ski centres), CIPRA, the Petzl Foundation, Foundation, Petzl the CIPRA, centres), ski country cross and mountain of (association give you a better idea of your real condition. the terrain by reading maps, topoguides and glasses, sun-cream (avalanche trans- Goûter: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 93; booking is compulsory: refugedugouter.ffcam.fr

sports centres), GTA (Grande Traversée des Alpes), MW (Mountain Wilderness), ANCEF ANCEF Wilderness), (Mountain MW Alpes), des Traversée (Grande GTA centres), sports expedition reports. ceiver, shovel and probe, depending Tré la tête: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 68; www.trelatete.com canyoning professionals), SNAM (union of mountain monitors), UCPA (union of outdoor outdoor of (union UCPA monitors), mountain of (union SNAM professionals), canyoning Gonella: (+39) 0165 885 101; www.rifugiogonella.com

The techniques you will need A club can help you to find a partner for on your route and local conditions).

of mountain guides), SNGRGE (refuge warden union), SNAPEC (union of climbing and and climbing of (union SNAPEC union), warden (refuge SNGRGE guides), mountain of Monzino: (+39) 0165 809 553

- To find your way:

ration), FFRP (French hiking federation), GHM, (high mountain group), SNGM (union (union SNGM group), mountain (high GHM, federation), hiking (French FFRP ration), to know include knowing how to your expedition, an initial experience . Cosmiques: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 16

federation of mountain climbing clubs), FFME (French mountain and climbing fede climbing and mountain (French FFME clubs), climbing mountain of federation use crampons, how to climb in and training courses. map, topo, compass, altime- Grands Mulets: +33 (0)4 50 53 57 10

activities (Coordination Montagne), created in January 2012, comprises: FFCAM (French (French FFCAM comprises: 2012, January in created Montagne), (Coordination activities varied terrain and cross ridges, A professional guide can advise, pre- ter, whistle, headlamp (GPS). Conscrits: +33 (0)4 79 89 09 03 The national coordination committee for the development of mountain and climbing climbing and mountain of development the for committee coordination national The and being able to adjust your pare and supervise you, taking on . To eat and drink: food Durier: +33 (0)6 89 53 25 10

rope (long on the glacier, short responsibility for the expedition. rations, hot drinks. Texts: Olivier Obin, Niels Martin and Philippe Descamps Philippe and Martin Niels Obin, Olivier Texts: Lifts:

along the ridges, etc.). . For rescue operations: . Photos: Mario Colonel Mario Photos: Opening hours: www.compagniedumontblanc.fr

crevasse rescue kit (5 karabiners, Map: JM Boudou JM Map: Aiguille du Midi cable car: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 75

3 ice screws, self-locking pulley, 2 Bellevue cable car: +33 (0)4 50 54 70 93 Layout and illustrations: Bérengère Collas Bérengère illustrations: and Layout rope clamps, sling, cordelette), Mont-Blanc tramway: +33 (0)4 50 47 51 83

Finding a club: telephone or radio, appropriate Tourist information: and climbing activities. climbing and .

www.thebmc.co.uk; www.alpine-club.org.uk; www.americanalpineclub.org first aid kit. Chamonix: +33 (0)4 50 53 00 24; www.chamonix.com

coordination committee for the development of mountain mountain of development the for committee coordination Finding a professional guide: Les Houches-Servoz: +33 (0)4 50 55 50 62; www.leshouches.com This document was devised and produced by the national national the by produced and devised was document This In France: www.sngm.fr Saint-Gervais-les-Bains: +33 (0)4 50 47 76 08; www.saintgervais.com In Aosta Valley: www.guidealtamontagna.com Val Montjoie: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 58; www.lescontamines.com In Switzerland: www.4000plus-vs.ch Vallée d’Aoste: (+39) 0165 842 060; www.lovevda.it Valais: (+41) 27 783 2717 ; www.st-bernard.ch + The hazards of the Risk aggravating Risk reducing factors: factors: If an accident occurs normal route The Goûter couloir is where most of the .Temperatures above zero. . Temperatures below zero. If you see an accident, you must take the usual .Dry air: nice, sunny weather. more serious accidents occur. . Cloudy weather, with little sun. The presence emergency precautions: The most critical time is of snow in the couloir has no influence on the Old refuge New refuge between regularity of rock falls. However, it does help to prevent other blocks being pulled down !!PROTECT 11am and 1.30pm. and rocks rebounding along the couloir. Before doing anything else, prevent further accidents by protecting others. Payot ridge Ridge Never move a casualty unless he/she is in direct, imminent danger, in which For more information: case, be careful to keep the torso/neck/ head aligned and Dial www. petzl-foundation.org protect against the cold. 112 Couloir ALERT crossing Tête Rousse glacier How to cross the .If the snow means your crampons hold Telephone network and radio coverage (150MHz) . is generally good in the Mont Blanc area. Goûter couloir? well, you may not need the cable. Otherwise, use the cable according to If neither work, send a messenger (not alone As with all the other parts of the routes, recommendations (attached with a suitable if possible) to inform the nearest refuge or assessing the current conditions remains technique, using a “floating” karabiner find an alert area. an essential factor when choosing the tech- between two members of the roped party). A single emergency number: From 1990 to 2011, 74 people died and Most are caused by a climber falling, often niques to be implemented. The main 180 were injured along this route, between the directly or indirectly related to a principles to be remembered include: 112 FIRST AID Tête Rousse and Goûter refuges. rock fall. In relation to traffic, there are Studies are underway to attempt to limit the .Always wear a helmet and stay While waiting for the rescue team to arrive, you may at least as many accidents on the way down, roped together. high risk presented by rock falls. have to take action quickly to open the casualty’s airway, stop bleeding, give CPR particularly along the ridge. We also know that if the heart is not beating, secure a conscious or unconscious casualty. These are In its current state, mountaineers must be .Prepare your equipment a good distance two thirds of all casualties were not roped, and reactions that must be learned. All mountaineers should have appropriate first aid aware of the dangers of this itinerary and be before crossing the couloir and not close to that fewer accidents involve people accompa- training. prepared to face them. its edges, which are highly exposed. nied by a professional guide. A study carried Guide the emergency team by forming a “Y” (yes) with raised arms or by signalling Approximately half of out in summer 2011 concerning the couloir .Check current conditions before deciding SOS with a torch or mobile phone screen at night. Depending on the terrain, try to alone estimated that one thousand of the all accidents occur along whether or not to cross the couloir. clear a landing area. the 100m couloir cros- estimated 17,000 crossings of the couloir were When the helicopter arrives, stay where you are and wait for further instructions. sing, and one third along affected by rock fall. While rock falls can occur .If possible, keep a lookout from a sheltered at any time of day or season, certain factors position for the roped party before you. .Along the ridge, use the cables and their the ridge. can aggravate or reduce the risk. Useful phone numbers: anchors for belaying – but beware, this is Valdotains alpine rescue: +39 (0)800 319 319 .Do not waste time in the couloir, but do not not a via ferrata. hurry unnecessarily either. Switzerland (Rega): 1414 or from abroad +41 333 333 333 ! Being aware of the dangers Do not confuse difficulty with danger. The busiest routes to Mont Blanc are not particularly demanding technically speaking. However, they involve all the dangers inherent to this environment. To limit risks, start by identifying the hazards of the terrain, finding out current conditions and the capabilities of your party. Altitude The higher you go, the less oxygen there is. AMS (acute mountain sickness) is a constant threat. Headaches, insomnia, breathlessness, loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting… the main symptoms can appear even at 3,500m. There is nothing to do but turn back. Proper acclimatisation can help prevent AMS. Cold At high altitude, close to 5,000m, the weather can change very quickly, bringing all kinds of problems: fog, cold made worse by violent winds, snow, frost, storms, lightning. It is important to be able to recognise the warning signs and to know when to retreat. Getting lost One of the main dangers of Mont Blanc is getting lost in sudden fog, particularly close to the summit or between the Aiguille and the Dôme du Goûter. Never set out without a map, navigation instruments and the knowledge of how to use them. Know precisely where you are during your entire itinerary. Falling The danger of falling increases with the steepness of the slope and the steepest areas include the Goûter ridge, below the Mont Maudit pass or the Bosses ridge. Although fresh snow offers serene landscapes of beautiful slopes, these same slopes become treacherous when the snow is hard. Good technique and suitable roping methods are essential. Busy periods The presence of other groups is reassuring, often too much so, particularly along the normal routes. The presence of other people offers a false sense of security. You happily follow in their footsteps, perhaps losing your own concentration. During the busiest periods, having to slow down and even stop for others adds further difficulties to crossings and can increase exposure to hazards. Extreme fatigue Altitude, cold, height gain and lack of preparation can result in profound fatigue. It is important that group members look out for one another. Crevasses Glaciers are very broken up in parts, particularly at the Jonction. Appropriate roping techniques and crevasse rescue equip- ment on each harness are essential. Seracs Falls Glaciers move at their own, imperceptible pace. Balanced seracs can fall at any time, without warning, particularly under the Mont Blanc du Tacul, around the Petit Plateau and the Grand Plateau. Avoid these areas or if not, at least do not linger there. Avalanches At altitudes like these, there is no season for snow. After a period of bad weather, extra care should be taken on gradients of more than 30°, particularly in the Goûter couloir or below Mont Blanc du Tacul. In summer, the snow cover generally stabilises more quickly. Remember to take an avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe and know when it is best to wait. Rock falls Rock falls, whether natural or caused by other climbers, demand the greatest care, particularly whilst within the Goûter couloir (see over). Grandes Jorasses dent du Géant aiguille du Midi mont Blanc du Tacul mont Maudit mont Blanc dôme du Goûter aiguilles de Bionnassay 4208 m 4013 m 3842 m 4248 m 4465 m 4810 m 4304 m 4052 m refuge des refuge des Grands Mulets refuge du Goûter refuge de Tête Rousse Cosmiques 3051 m 3835 m 3167 m 3613 m

Arête du Dôme

la Jonction

Plan de l’aiguille ! Being aware of the dangers

Chamonix Do not confuse difficulty with danger. The busiest routes to Mont Blanc are not particularly demanding technically Plan de speaking. However, they involve all the dangers inherent to this environment. To limit risks, start by identifying Reaching the top of Mont Blanc 7 routes to the tip of the Alps l'Aiguille the hazards of the terrain, finding out current conditions and the capabilities of your party. A concern for climbers There is more than one way to Altitude The higher you go, the less oxygen there is. A concern for climbers St-Gervais- 3 AMS (acute mountain sickness) is a constant threat. Headaches,

reach the top of Mont Blanc. les-Bains insomnia, breathlessness, loss of appetite, nausea, vomiting… the main symptoms can appear even at 3,500m. léphérique Té There is nothing to do but turn back. Proper acclimatisation can help prevent AMS. For us climbers, who sometimes travel thousands of kilometres to climb this summit, It may be more fun, particularly during the busier periods, to take one of Cold the less traditional routes. The more technical passages demand substantial Mont Blanc is far more than just another peak to climb. It is a dream, a legend even. The amazing les Houches At high altitude, close to 5,000m, the weather can change very quickly, bringing all kinds of problems: fog, cold experience. In order of difficulty and mostly of risk exposure: TMB history of our passion has been written on these slopes. The intense efforts, unspoiled landscapes made worse by violent winds, snow, frost, storms, lightning. It is important to be able to recognise the warning Aiguille signs and to know when to retreat. and elegant peaks, the fraternity of the roped party and the confrontation with high altitude all 1.The normal route via Goûter. du Midi contribute to making this a unique experience. We all want to share it. Alpine grade: PD (somewhat difficult). Ascent: 1450 + 1000m or 800 + 1650 éléphérique Getting lost T 2 (overnight stop at Tête Rousse) Refuge One of the main dangers of Mont Blanc is getting lost in sudden fog, particularly close to the summit or between However, this symbol of mountaineering sometimes also conveys a negative image Refuge des des Cosmiques the Aiguille and the Dôme du Goûter. Never set out without a map, navigation instruments and the knowledge of With an overnight stay at Tête Rousse, the altitude gain is higher (1650m), Grands Mulets of our sport. The number of people on certain days, the lack of respect for the site and for other Col how to use them. Know precisely where you are during your entire itinerary. but you will be crossing the couloir at the right time and you can stop at the du Midi people, failures and tragedies all contribute to this deteriorating image. If we are not careful, Goûter refuge on the way back. le Nid Falling this deterioration could result in the free access to this summit being limited. The mountain d'Aigle Mont Blanc The danger of falling increases with the steepness of the slope and the steepest areas include the Goûter ridge, The three summits. (Tacul, mont Maudit, mont Blanc). community can use its many talents to show the way to making sure that the highest point in the 2. 1 du Tacul below the Mont Maudit pass or the Bosses ridge. Although fresh snow offers serene landscapes of beautiful slopes, Alps remains exemplary and freely attainable place, by enhancing the Mont Blanc experience. Alpine grade: PD+ (somewhat difficult+). Ascent: 1200m Refuge de Refuge these same slopes become treacherous when the snow is hard. Good technique and suitable roping methods are More technical and physically demanding than the normal route, this itine- Tête Rousse du Goûter essential. Standing 4,810m high, this summit is obviously for experienced mountaineers. rary is attracting increasing numbers of climbers. Descent via either Goûter Aiguille du Gôuter˚ Busy periods Such an extraordinary climb is not for just anyone. Good preparation, information and equip- or Grands Mulets. Mont Maudit The presence of other groups is reassuring, often too much so, particularly along the normal routes. The presence ment are fundamental pre-requisites. It takes time to acquire expertise in mountaineering Dôme 3.Grands Mulets and the Dôme du Goûter ridge du Goûter˚ of other people offers a false sense of security. You happily follow in their footsteps, perhaps losing your own techniques and knowledge of the mountain environment. If you want access to the untamed, Piton Abri concentration. During the busiest periods, having to slow down and even stop for others adds further difficulties Alpine grade: PD+ (somewhat difficult +). Ascent: 700 + 1800m. Aiguilles de des Italiens Col du Vallot wilder side of nature, you must accept the risk that comes with it. In fact, the art of climbing to crossings and can increase exposure to hazards. A classic on skis and for descent, this historic route is not recommended on Bionnassay Col des Dôme les Bosses mountains resides in knowing how to reduce this risk. The first thing to do is therefore unders- foot because it means being exposed for too long to the risk of serac falls from Aiguilles MONT BLANC Extreme fatigue tand nature and identify the particular dangers you will be facing in order to create suitable Grises la Tournette Altitude, cold, height gain and lack of preparation can result in profound fatigue. It is important that group the Petit Plateau. The alternative is to climb the north ridge of the Dôme du Mont Blanc solutions. Such magnificent places are also fragile. Refuge members look out for one another. Goûter from the Goûter refuge before reaching the Vallot hut. les Contamines- Durier de Courmayeur Montjoie Refuge Col e must leave this classified site pure, respect the rules and the recommendations appli- Col de Crevasses W 4.Italian normal route (or Aiguilles Grises) Gonella Refuge Eccles Miage Q. Sella Glaciers are very broken up in parts, particularly at the Jonction. Appropriate roping techniques and crevasse cable in the refuges, take all waste home with us and use the toilets provided. Alpine grade: PD+ (somewhat difficult +). Ascent: 1300 + 1800m (or 800 + 1000m) Bivouac e rescue equipment on each harness are essential. The normal Italian route is a long and beautiful snowy itinerary on a gla- le Cugnon iag Eccles The success of your Mont Blanc experience is more than just adding this peak M Seracs Falls e Col des to your list of climbs: it also means getting back down again safely, with a head full of cier that can be complicated. Possibility of an intermediate night stop at the 5 d Glaciers move at their own, imperceptible pace. Balanced seracs can fall at any time, without warning, particularly e s Dômes Goûter refuge. m exceptional memories. Faced with a climb that is harder than anticipated, mediocre condi- D ô under the Mont Blanc du Tacul, around the Petit Plateau and the Grand Plateau. Avoid these areas or if not, at Aiguille de least do not linger there. tions or an insufficiently prepared or untrained group, turning back at the right moment 5.The Royal Traverse: Miage, Bionnassay, Mont Blanc la Bérangère Col de la Bérangère 6 Refuge Avalanches can be a form of group success. Perhaps another climb would be a better option for that Alpine grade: AD (fairly difficult) (exposed). Ascent: 1450+1100 +1650m Monzino particular day. Long expedition with sharp ridge passages that are very tricky. At altitudes like these, there is no season for snow. After a period of bad weather, extra care should be taken on gradients of more than 30°, particularly in the Goûter couloir or below Mont Blanc du Tacul. In summer, the 6.Tournette spur 7 Chalets snow cover generally stabilises more quickly. Remember to take an avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe and Freedom Alpine grade: AD (fairly difficult). Ascent: 1700 + 1400m. du Miage know when it is best to wait. means giving yourself the chance to try again. Long, exposed expedition in wild terrain; involves committed climbing with Refuge Refuge Rock falls traditional protection. de Tré - des Conscrits 4 Rock falls, whether natural or caused by other climbers, demand the greatest care, particularly whilst within the la -Tête Goûter couloir (see over). 7. Innominata ridge Alpine grade: D+ (difficult +). Ascent: 900+1500+800m. Long, exposed expedition along a complicated route. Grandes Jorasses dent du Géant aiguille du Midi mont Blanc du Tacul mont Maudit mont Blanc dôme du Goûter aiguilles de Bionnassay 4208 m 4013 m 3842 m 4248 m 4465 m 4810 m 4304 m 4052 m refuge des refuge des Grands Mulets refuge du Goûter refuge de Tête Rousse Cosmiques 3051 m 3835 m 3167 m 3613 m

Arête du Dôme

la Jonction

Plan de l’aiguille

Chamonix Ne pas confondre difficulté et danger. Les itinéraires les plus fréquentés vers le mont Blanc ne sont Plan de pas d’un niveau technique très élevé. En revanche, ils rassemblent tous les dangers propres à ce Réussir le mont Blanc 7 voies vers le toit des Alpes l'Aiguille milieu. Pour réduire les risques, il faut commencer par bien identifier les aléas du terrain, connaître Une affaire d’alpinistesUne affaire d’alpinistes Il n’y a pas qu’une manière de les conditions du jour et les capacités de sa cordée. St-Gervais- 3 Altitude

gravir le mont Blanc. les-Bains

léphérique Té Plus on s’élève, plus l’oxygène est rare. Le MAM Pour nous alpinistes, qui venons parfois de loin pour le gravir, le mont Blanc repré- En particulier durant les périodes de forte affluence, il peut être plus essoufflement, perte d’appétit, nausées, vomissements,, mal les aigu principaux des montagnes, symptômes guette. peuvent Maux apparaître de tête, insomnie, dès 3500m. Il faut redescendre. Une acclimatation adéquate peut permettre de prévenir le MAM. sente bien davantage qu’un sommet : un rêve, voire un mythe. La belle histoire de notre passion agréable d’emprunter des itinéraires moins classiques. Les plus techniques les Houches TMB s’est écrite dans ces pentes. Par l’effort intense, la pureté des paysages, l’élégance des cimes, la requièrent une grande expérience. Par ordre de difficulté et surtout d’enga- Froid gement croissant : Aiguille En haute altitude, à près de 5000 m, le temps peut rapidement se dégrader et donner lieu à de nombreux fraternité de la cordée ou la confrontation à de hautes altitudes, cette expérience demeure unique. du Midi Nous avons tous envie de la transmettre. phénomènes : brouillard, froid aggravé par des vents violents, neige, givre, orage, foudre. Il faut connaître les éléphérique 2 T signes précurseurs et ne pas insister. La voie normale par le Goûter. Refuge 1. des Cosmiques Mais ce symbole de l’alpinisme par excellence porte aussi parfois une mauvaise Cotation : PD. Dénivelé : 1450 + 1000 m ou 800 + 1650 (nuit à Tête Rousse) Refuge des Égarement Grands Mulets Col image de nos pratiques. L’encombrement de certains jours, le manque de respect pour le site et En dormant à Tête Rousse, le dénivelé est plus grand (1650m), mais on fran- du Midi L’un des principaux dangers du mont Blanc est de se perdre dans le brouillard survenu brutalement, en particulier chit le couloir aux bonnes heures et l’on peut dormir au Goûter sur le retour. aux abords du sommet ou entre l’aiguille et le dôme du Goûter. On ne part pas sans une carte et ses instruments pour les hommes, les échecs ou les drames dégradent cette image. Si on n’y prend garde, cette le Nid d'Aigle Mont Blanc d’orientation. dégradation pourrait conduire à une limitation de notre liberté d’aller vers ce sommet. Forte de Les Trois monts (Tacul, mont Maudit, mont Blanc). 2. 1 du Tacul nombreux talents, la communauté des montagnards peut montrer le chemin pour que le point Cot. : PD. Dénivelé : 1200 Refuge de Dévissage Refuge Le danger de chute augmente avec l’inclinaison de la pente, comme sur l’arête du Goûter, sous le col du Maudit culminant des Alpes demeure un lieu exemplaire, en revalorisant l’expérience du mont Blanc. Plus technique et physique que la voie normale, cet itinéraire séduit de plus Tête Rousse du Goûter en plus d’alpinistes. La descente peut se faire par le Goûter ou les Grands Aiguille ou l’arête des bosses. Si une neige tendre permet d’envisager sereinement les belles pentes, elles deviennent très du Gôuter˚ Mont glissantes quand la neige est dure. Une bonne technique et un encordement ajusté sont nécessaires. À 4 810 m, ce sommet reste à l’évidence une affaire d’alpinistes. On ne s’im- Mulets. Dôme Maudit provise pas candidat à une ascension aussi peu banale. On se prépare, on s’informe et on Fréquentation Les Grands Mulets et l’arête du Dôme du Goûter du Goûter˚ s’équipe. La maîtrise des techniques et la connaissance du milieu requièrent du temps. En 3. Piton Abri La présence d’autres cordées rassure, souvent trop, en particulier sur les voies normales. Elles donnent un faux Cot. : PD+. Dénivelé : 700 + 1800. Aiguilles de des Italiens Col du Vallot sentiment de sécurité. On se contente de suivre et on en perd sa capacité de discernement. Lors des fortes voulant accéder à une nature belle et sauvage, on accepte le risque. Mais tout l’art de gravir Dôme les Bosses Voie classique à skis et voie de descente, la voie historique n’est pas recom- Bionnassay Col des affluences, les ralentissements, voire les embouteillages, rendent les croisements difficiles et peuvent augmenter les montagnes consiste à savoir réduire ce risque. Pour cela, la première démarche est de bien mandée à pied, car elle oblige à séjourner trop longtemps sous la menace Aiguilles MONT BLANC Grises l’exposition. identifier et comprendre la nature et la particularité des dangers auxquels on se confronte des séracs du Petit Plateau. L’alternative consiste à gravir l’arête nord du la Tournette Refuge Mont Blanc Fatigue extrême pour apporter des réponses adéquates. Dôme du Goûter depuis le refuge avant de rejoindre la cabane Vallot. les Contamines- Durier de Courmayeur Montjoie Refuge Col L’altitude, le froid, le dénivelé ou l’impréparation peuvent entraîner une fatigue profonde, un abandon. Aux Col de La voie du pape (ou des aiguilles Grises) Gonella Refuge Eccles compagnons d’être vigilants. Ces lieux grandioses sont aussi fragiles. Laissons à ce site classé sa virginité, 4. Miage Q. Sella Cot. : PD+. Dénivelé : 1300 + 1800 (ou 800 + 1000) Bivouac e Crevasses respectons sa réglementation et les règles de bonne conduite en refuge, redescendons tous Voie « normale » du versant italien, c’est un bel et long itinéraire de neige le Cugnon iag Eccles M Les glaciers sont par endroits très fracturés, en particulier à la Jonction. Encordement approprié et matériel de nos déchets, utilisons les toilettes organisées. sur un glacier parfois complexe. Possibilité de nuit intermédiaire au Goûter. e Col des 5 d secours en crevasse au baudrier sont indispensables. e s Dômes m D ô Réussir l’expérience du mont Blanc ce n’est pas seulement accrocher un som- 5.Traversée Miage, Bionnassay, mont Blanc Aiguille de Chute de séracs met à son palmarès, c’est aussi en redescendre en bonne santé, avec le plein de souvenirs Cot. : AD (engagé). Dénivelé : 1450+1100 +1650 la Bérangère Col de Les glaciers avancent à leur rythme, insondable. Les séracs en équilibre peuvent basculer sans prévenir, en parti la Bérangère 6 Refuge exceptionnels. Devant un terrain plus difficile que prévu, des conditions médiocres, un Longue odyssée avec des parcours d’arêtes très aériens et délicats. Monzino culier sous le mont Blanc du Tacul, au Petit Plateau et au Grand Plateau. Évitez ces lieux ou ne vous y attardez pas. - groupe mal préparé ou en méforme, un renoncement bien géré devient une forme de 6.L’éperon de la Tournette Avalanches réussite collective. Une autre course pourra être plus adaptée ce jour-là. Cot. : AD. Dénivelé : 1700 + 1400. 7 Chalets À ces altitudes, la neige ne connaît pas de saison. Après un épisode de mauvais temps, on se méfiera des pentes Grande course sauvage avec escalade sur coinceurs et engagement. du Miage de plus de 30°, en particulier dans le Goûter ou sous le Tacul. En été, la stabilisation du manteau neigeux est La liberté, Refuge Refuge généralement plus rapide. Ne pas oublier DVA, pelle et sonde et savoir attendre. 7.Arête de l’Innominata de Tré - des Conscrits Chutes de pierres Cot. : D+. Dénivelé : 900+1500+800. la -Tête 4 c’est se donner la chance d’une nouvelle tentative. Naturelles ou provoquées par d’autres cordées, les chutes de pierres réclament la plus grande attention, en Grande course engagée au cheminement complexe. particulier dans le couloir du Goûter (voir au verso).

Preparation Equipment Information Supported bye: Supported To attempt Mont Blanc with a good Part of the expedition means finding the right equipment, Conditions change quickly in the mountains and the chance of success, experience of high remembering the essentials without weighing yourself weather changes even faster. To make the right deci- 1 mountains, regular training and 2 down with the superfluous. 3 sions, you have to have the right information and preparation are essential. Good know how to interpret it with a critical mind. guides are also a decisive factor. As well as clothing suitable for high altitude condi- tions and extremely cold temperatures (including

. Weather and mountain conditions:

www.coordination-montagne.fr spare gloves), the equipment is that High mountain office: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 08; www.chamoniarde.com 4 76 51 75 41 41 75 51 76 4

+33(0) In terms of physical preparation for this sum- Psychologically, of a mountaineer on a glacier Meteo France weather forecast: (France only) 08 99 71 02 74; www.meteofrance.com

3, rue Raoul Blanchard, 38000 Grenoble. 38000 Blanchard, Raoul rue 3, (ice axe, crampons, harness, rope, etc.). Aosta Valley weather forecast: (+39) 0165 272 333; www.regione.vda.it Maison de la Montagne la de Maison mit, you should not only be in good physical you must be prepared for bad nights and long

Swiss mountain bulletin: (+41) 0900900 162 168; www.meteosuisse.admin.ch La Coordination Montagne Coordination La condition, but also have tested your days in a fabulous, but hostile, different and Chamonix mountain gendarmes: +33 (0)4 50 55 33 72

level of fitness at altitude. A first expe- changing environment. Remember that you must Foundation. What about

rience of an easier “4,000” and at least one be prepared: me... can I . Refuges and huts:

En Passant par la Montagne, Sportsnature.org research network, the Mountain Biker’s Biker’s Mountain the network, research Sportsnature.org Montagne, la par Passant En night spent recently at more than 3,000m will Preparing your expedition means studying . To protect yourself: helmet, come too? Tête Rousse: +33 (0)4 50 58 24 97; booking is compulsory: refugeteterousse.ffcam.fr

(association of mountain and cross country ski centres), CIPRA, the Petzl Foundation, Foundation, Petzl the CIPRA, centres), ski country cross and mountain of (association give you a better idea of your real condition. the terrain by reading maps, topoguides and glasses, sun-cream (avalanche trans- Goûter: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 93; booking is compulsory: refugedugouter.ffcam.fr

sports centres), GTA (Grande Traversée des Alpes), MW (Mountain Wilderness), ANCEF ANCEF Wilderness), (Mountain MW Alpes), des Traversée (Grande GTA centres), sports expedition reports. ceiver, shovel and probe, depending Tré la tête: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 68; www.trelatete.com canyoning professionals), SNAM (union of mountain monitors), UCPA (union of outdoor outdoor of (union UCPA monitors), mountain of (union SNAM professionals), canyoning Gonella: (+39) 0165 885 101; www.rifugiogonella.com

The techniques you will need A club can help you to find a partner for on your route and local conditions).

of mountain guides), SNGRGE (refuge warden union), SNAPEC (union of climbing and and climbing of (union SNAPEC union), warden (refuge SNGRGE guides), mountain of Monzino: (+39) 0165 809 553

- To find your way:

ration), FFRP (French hiking federation), GHM, (high mountain group), SNGM (union (union SNGM group), mountain (high GHM, federation), hiking (French FFRP ration), to know include knowing how to your expedition, an initial experience . Cosmiques: +33 (0)4 50 54 40 16

federation of mountain climbing clubs), FFME (French mountain and climbing fede climbing and mountain (French FFME clubs), climbing mountain of federation use crampons, how to climb in and training courses. map, topo, compass, altime- Grands Mulets: +33 (0)4 50 53 57 10

activities (Coordination Montagne), created in January 2012, comprises: FFCAM (French (French FFCAM comprises: 2012, January in created Montagne), (Coordination activities varied terrain and cross ridges, A professional guide can advise, pre- ter, whistle, headlamp (GPS). Conscrits: +33 (0)4 79 89 09 03 The national coordination committee for the development of mountain and climbing climbing and mountain of development the for committee coordination national The and being able to adjust your pare and supervise you, taking on . To eat and drink: food Durier: +33 (0)6 89 53 25 10

rope (long on the glacier, short responsibility for the expedition. rations, hot drinks. Texts: Olivier Obin, Niels Martin and Philippe Descamps Philippe and Martin Niels Obin, Olivier Texts: Lifts:

along the ridges, etc.). . For rescue operations: . Photos: Mario Colonel Mario Photos: Opening hours: www.compagniedumontblanc.fr

crevasse rescue kit (5 karabiners, Map: JM Boudou JM Map: Aiguille du Midi cable car: +33 (0)4 50 53 22 75

3 ice screws, self-locking pulley, 2 Bellevue cable car: +33 (0)4 50 54 70 93 Layout and illustrations: Bérengère Collas Bérengère illustrations: and Layout rope clamps, sling, cordelette), Mont-Blanc tramway: +33 (0)4 50 47 51 83

Finding a club: telephone or radio, appropriate Tourist information: and climbing activities. climbing and .

www.thebmc.co.uk; www.alpine-club.org.uk; www.americanalpineclub.org first aid kit. Chamonix: +33 (0)4 50 53 00 24; www.chamonix.com

coordination committee for the development of mountain mountain of development the for committee coordination Finding a professional guide: Les Houches-Servoz: +33 (0)4 50 55 50 62; www.leshouches.com This document was devised and produced by the national national the by produced and devised was document This In France: www.sngm.fr Saint-Gervais-les-Bains: +33 (0)4 50 47 76 08; www.saintgervais.com In Aosta Valley: www.guidealtamontagna.com Val Montjoie: +33 (0)4 50 47 01 58; www.lescontamines.com In Switzerland: www.4000plus-vs.ch Vallée d’Aoste: (+39) 0165 842 060; www.lovevda.it Valais: (+41) 27 783 2717 ; www.st-bernard.ch + The hazards of the Risk aggravating Risk reducing factors: factors: If an accident occurs normal route The Goûter couloir is where most of the .Temperatures above zero. . Temperatures below zero. If you see an accident, you must take the usual .Dry air: nice, sunny weather. more serious accidents occur. . Cloudy weather, with little sun. The presence emergency precautions: The most critical time is of snow in the couloir has no influence on the Old refuge New refuge between regularity of rock falls. However, it does help to prevent other blocks being pulled down !!PROTECT 11am and 1.30pm. and rocks rebounding along the couloir. Before doing anything else, prevent further accidents by protecting others. Payot ridge Ridge Never move a casualty unless he/she is in direct, imminent danger, in which For more information: case, be careful to keep the torso/neck/ head aligned and Dial www. petzl-foundation.org protect against the cold. 112 Couloir ALERT crossing Tête Rousse glacier How to cross the .If the snow means your crampons hold Telephone network and radio coverage (150MHz) . is generally good in the Mont Blanc area. Goûter couloir? well, you may not need the cable. Otherwise, use the cable according to If neither work, send a messenger (not alone As with all the other parts of the routes, recommendations (attached with a suitable if possible) to inform the nearest refuge or assessing the current conditions remains technique, using a “floating” karabiner find an alert area. an essential factor when choosing the tech- between two members of the roped party). A single emergency number: From 1990 to 2011, 74 people died and Most are caused by a climber falling, often niques to be implemented. The main 180 were injured along this route, between the directly or indirectly related to a principles to be remembered include: 112 FIRST AID Tête Rousse and Goûter refuges. rock fall. In relation to traffic, there are Studies are underway to attempt to limit the .Always wear a helmet and stay While waiting for the rescue team to arrive, you may at least as many accidents on the way down, roped together. high risk presented by rock falls. have to take action quickly to open the casualty’s airway, stop bleeding, give CPR particularly along the ridge. We also know that if the heart is not beating, secure a conscious or unconscious casualty. These are In its current state, mountaineers must be .Prepare your equipment a good distance two thirds of all casualties were not roped, and reactions that must be learned. All mountaineers should have appropriate first aid aware of the dangers of this itinerary and be before crossing the couloir and not close to that fewer accidents involve people accompa- training. prepared to face them. its edges, which are highly exposed. nied by a professional guide. A study carried Guide the emergency team by forming a “Y” (yes) with raised arms or by signalling Approximately half of out in summer 2011 concerning the couloir .Check current conditions before deciding SOS with a torch or mobile phone screen at night. Depending on the terrain, try to alone estimated that one thousand of the all accidents occur along whether or not to cross the couloir. clear a landing area. the 100m couloir cros- estimated 17,000 crossings of the couloir were When the helicopter arrives, stay where you are and wait for further instructions. sing, and one third along affected by rock fall. While rock falls can occur .If possible, keep a lookout from a sheltered at any time of day or season, certain factors position for the roped party before you. .Along the ridge, use the cables and their the ridge. can aggravate or reduce the risk. Useful phone numbers: anchors for belaying – but beware, this is Valdotains alpine rescue: +39 (0)800 319 319 .Do not waste time in the couloir, but do not not a via ferrata. hurry unnecessarily either. Switzerland (Rega): 1414 or from abroad +41 333 333 333