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LUXURY’S NEW WEB/12-13 BASELWORLD PREVIEW/SEC. II WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The THURSDAYRetailers’ Daily Newspaper • April 3, 2008 • $2.00 Sportswear Next Big Tings Poised to release their fi rst album, Brit pop duo The Ting Tings have their own sound, not to mention style to spare. Here, Jules De Martino in G-Star’s cotton hoodie and Lee’s cotton denim jeans. Ray-Ban sunglasses. Katie White in Mike & Chris’ cotton top, G-Star’s cotton denim miniskirt and Deréon’s nylon leggings with studs.

ASSISTANTS: NICK AXELROD AND DANIELLE SPONDER; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY NICK AXELROD AND DANIELLE SPONDER; STYLED BY ASSISTANTS: Fallon ring. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Fighting the Fakes: Louis Vuitton and Murakami Make a Show of It By Marc Karimzadeh “Brooklyn Ball” at the Brooklyn installation designed to bring ake no mistake — Louis Museum featuring a special attention to one of the industry’s MVuitton is well-equipped for performance by Kanye West, the biggest travails — counterfeits. combat against counterfeiters. unveiling of a new camouflage But rather than simply hand Tonight, Vuitton is celebrating print developed by Murakami out leaflets to alert guests about Takashi Murakami’s “© and Marc Jacobs called the importance of protecting Murakami” exhibition with a Monogramouflage and a special See Louis, Page 14 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; HAIR BY WESLEY O’MEARA FOR KERASTASE PARIS AND MAKEUP BY KATEY DENNO, BOTH AT THE WALL GROUP; FASHION GROUP; FASHION THE WALL BOTH AT DENNO, KATEY AND MAKEUP BY PARIS FOR KERASTASE WESLEY O’MEARA GEORGE CHINSEE; HAIR BY PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION Poised to release their fi rst album, Brit pop duo The Ting Tings have their ™ 6 own sound, not to mention plenty of style to spare. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Louis Vuitton is feting the Brooklyn Museum’s Murakami exhibition with CARTE BLANCHE: THE TIME IS WHITE 1 a special camoufl age print and an installation aimed at counterfeits. The Doha trade talks aren’t dead yet, WTO deputy director general Rufus White Denim: It’s Not Just for Summer Anymore 4 Yerxa told top decision-makers in global sourcing in Hong Kong. Spring is officially here and for most women our customers that we cater to who live in warm EYE: There was no singing of “Kumbaya” at the Natural Resources Defense that no longer requires a drastic shift from a winter weather all year round.” 5 Council bash, but the event was as organic as a Cipriani party can get. wardrobe to a spring one. Credit a relaxation in Adds Galloway, another online retailer, “Most BEAT: Wicked Fashions, parent of Southpole and Lot29, is expanding with once iron-clad rules about what to wear and when of my brands start offering white denim as early as 8 three new lines: Wckd, WhiteTag and Southpole Collection. to wear it with creating wardrobe staples that many November deliveries. They sell so well because you Sens. Barack Obama and Hillary Rodham Clinton broadened their women happily embrace for up have people who love white denim 18 opposition to free trade in speeches before the AFL-CIO in Pennsylvania. to twelve months a year. and will wear it for all seasons no Two of the most important matter where they live.” Basel Preview is included as a Section II in this issue. rules of yesteryear to be bent “White denim is so hot right Classifi ed Advertisements...... 21-23 or discarded concern the color now because it is neat and To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. white and the appropriate clean and gives you a simple yet [email protected], using the individual’s name. venues and occasions for wearing sophisticated look,” she continues. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT denim. A recent poll conducted “It is just as powerful of a color ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. to wear as black these days and VOLUME 195, NO. 71. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with by the Cotton Incorporated one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and Lifestyle Monitor™ indicates a makes your feel just as confidant November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of general acceptance for wearing and in control. Like black, white Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, white beyond a certain point. matches everything.” Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/ Seventy-three percent of female The popularity of white has Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: respondents say that the rule certainly had an effect on the return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: about wearing white after Labor designs at Karen Millen England, SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA “White denim transcends trends 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE Day is old fashioned and it is and seasons as a wardrobe staple, an international designer label. INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit appropriate to wear beyond quite simply because it is flattering. “For Spring/Summer ‘08, we’ve www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new that date and even all year. done all our key shapes in white, subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production It always looks amazing and is correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, Respondents also indicate that the skinny, the crop, the boot please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other they wear jeans on average for quite easy for the wearer to cut and our favorite, the wide leg Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list dress up as well as down.” available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. four days a week, solidifying high-waisted jean with the front If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA denim’s importance as a favored — French Connection patch pockets,” says Gemma 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, garment for the workplace and Metheringham, Creative BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED for social occasions and closeting that age-old Director. “Done right, white jeans give a look of MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR question of “Can I wear jeans there?”. sophistication. Crisp, clean and chic, white jeans DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY So what do you get when you combine these take ‘day time casual’ to the next level.” A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. two new and updated rules? You get a pair of white The latest styles of white denim in every jeans that seven out of ten female respondents silhouette from skinny to full leg to boot cut who wear white denim say they will wear during indicate that white denim is poised to take its place the spring and summer seasons or all year round, as a go-to jean alongside her blue sisters. ™ In Brief according to the Monitor . Adds the spokesperson from French Connection, “White denim transcends trends and seasons as a “We are offering white denim in all shapes and wardrobe staple, quite simply because it is flattering. It sizes, from the unbleached and earth-friendly ● MCCOMB’S COMPENSATION: William L. McComb, chief always looks amazing and is quite easy for the wearer ‘eco jean,’ to the ubiquitous skinny jean. We are executive officer of Liz Claiborne Inc., pulled in total com- pensation of $6.3 million last year, his first full year on the to dress up as well as down,” offers a spokesperson showing high-waisted white trouser jeans, white job, according to a filing with the Securities and Exchange from French Connection. “With the addition of denim painter-style jackets, and skirts in white Commission on Wednesday. His pay included a salary of $1.3 contrast stitching in various colors and styles, denim. Our most popular style, however, is the million, stock and option awards valued at $4.5 million, a bonus women are now comfortable wearing white jeans traditional tapered-leg, low-waisted white jean.” of $325,000 and other compensation, including $6,634 in ap- year around.” “White denim is here parel and more than $113,000 for an apartment the company “Thanks to the Vogue’s Best Description of How You Feel About to stay. It has proven leases for him. McComb took over the helm of the vendor in and Cosmopolitan’s of the Wearing White Clothing After Labor Day its staying power and November 2006, and received total compensation of $944,000 world, women feel secure keeps reinventing for that period. Michael Scarpa, chief operating officer, saw his in making white jeans a Females itself,” Metheringham compensation rise 8.4 percent to $2 million. Andrew Warren, It’s appropriate to wear white chief financial officer, earned $1.3 million, and Jill Granoff, ex- yearly staple purchase. 28% continues.“Denim’s clothing all year ecutive vice president for direct brands, received $1.4 million. It can sometimes be popularity is a Warren joined the company last year. There was no compensa- The rule is old fashioned and it’s just as common as 45% combination of ease of tion listed for Granoff for 2006. buying a staple pair of appropriate to wear after Labor Day wearing, convenience and blue jeans,” says Jamila If the rule changed, I would wear obviously cool factor, and ● 6% TALBOTS STOCK RISES: Talbots Inc. stock gained 15.7 Galloway, Denim white after Labor Day denim designers are really percent to close at $13.89 in trading on the New York Stock Buyer for DJPremium, White clothing should not be worn pushing the boundaries Exchange Wednesday, a day after the company revealed a 16% an online destination. after Labor Day each season; there is three-year plan to turn around its struggling business. Trudy And that influence definitely a jean for every Sullivan, president and chief executive officer, intends to re- may ever be increasing, body type these days.” vamp the specialty retailer to appeal to a new generation, with ™ timeless classics. In a note, Todd Slater, retail analyst at Lazard suggests data from the Monitor . 43% and 38% of For many, wearing white jeans throughout the Capital Markets, said the primary goal of the merchandise team female respondents in the last quarter of 2007 cite year is a personal statement of ‘carte blanche’. is to become more “design” oriented. advertisements and fashion magazines as sources Galloway from DJPremium certainly agrees, “For for their clothing ideas, up from 40% and 31% me, it represents pushing the envelope just a little. ● COTTON PRICES TO INCREASE: Global cotton prices are in the same period a year earlier. Wearing white whenever I want feels liberating. forecast to increase 10.1 percent this year, compared with Almost three out of four female respondents I wouldn’t say it is as powerful as when we first last year’s 4.4 percent boost, with demand from Asian nations tell the Monitor that they plan to buy at least started wearing pants but it does feel like you are making up for the economic slowdown in rich Western na- one or two pairs of jeans in the coming months, changing fashion rules one move at a time.” tions, said a report from the United Nations Commission for representing a powerful market for today’s white Africa. The projection bodes well for African cotton-exporting jean and retailers are planning accordingly. “At This story is one in a series of articles based on find- nations such as Benin, Burkina Faso, Chad and Mali that are positioned to supply expanding Asian economies like China Shopbop.com, we love bringing in white as early ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these and India. As a result, the agency expects African economies as possible to make sure we have a strong fresh to grow by more than 6 percent this year, following last year’s assortment,” says Alana Goldsmith, Denim pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it 5.8 percent expansion. The report warns, however, that there’s Buyer for the online fashion store. The rules of relates to the American consumer and her attitudes a risk in 2008 “of a sharper slowdown in the U.S. economy and not wearing white after Labor Day these days and behavior regarding clothing, a fall in global commodity demand and prices.” The study said don’t apply that much online. We continue appearance, fashion, fiber selection and Chinese cotton imports have contributed to “41 percent of the to sell white as it’s become a staple jean for many other timely, relevant subjects. growth of cotton exports of all cotton-producing countries in Africa,” and contributed to an estimated 1.1 percent economic growth of these countries. Get the latest NEWS, FASHION and HEADLINES... ANYTIME, ANYWHERE!

Subscribers Get Unlimited Global Access to: • News alerts and daily summaries/headlines • E-edition: same content as the paper • Web exclusives • Trade show calendar Subscribe today @ WWD.COM 4 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 WWD.COM WTO Offi cial Hopeful Dell’Acqua Said in Talks for Malo Post By Luisa Zargani Alessandro For Doha Trade Round MILAN — Alessandro Dell’Acqua may be Dell’Acqua headed to Malo now that the creative post By Constance Haisma-Kwok duce high-value-added products there is vacant. or do more in the area of research, A spokeswoman at IT Holding, which con- HONG KONG — The Doha trade design and brand-building. trols both Malo and Ferré, and a Dell’Acqua talks aren’t dead yet, World Trade “There are opportunities be- spokesman declined comment, but sources Organization deputy director-gen- cause they are opening the con- said the designer is in talks about taking over eral Rufus Yerxa told a gathering sumer market,” he said. “For at the knitwear line. Malo’s former designers, here of some of the top decision- European and U.S. brands, this is Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, makers in global manufacturing. a good chance.” were tapped Tuesday by Gianfranco Ferré. “It’s a daunting exercise to get a Jack Kipling, chairman of the In addition to his namesake line, format for tariff reduction among Export Council for the Clothing Dell’Acqua, who is known for his sensual and 150 countries,” said Yerxa, speaking Industry in sub-Saharan Africa, feminine designs, is creative director at La to the Prime Source Forum through said his group has taken note of Perla and oversees designs at Borbonese. a video link from Geneva. “It’s not what China has accomplished. Sources close to the companies involved said easy to fi nd a way to navigate, but “I think that the Chinese un- Dell’Acqua’s knowledge of knitwear has caught we have made significant prog- derstood way before the rest of the eye of Malo executives. Dell’Acqua started ress. It’s a complicated negotiating us that clothing and textiles is a his career in 1995 with A A Milano, his fi rst in- schedule that has so far prevented numbers game — size counts,” dependent collection, after years of working as us from making a breakthrough. We Kipling said, noting the benefi ts a consultant for brands such as Genny, Byblos, have had so many false dawns.” of centralizing the industry and Gilmar, Maska and Enrica Massei. The A A Differences between rich and achieving critical mass. Milano collection mostly consisted of knitwear developing countries over how to He explained that lead times treated in a variety of ways and combined with proceed to lower trade barriers for aren’t quite as long from Africa as stretch and technical fabrics. agriculture and industrial goods, some might think, with Ghana just The Neapolitan designer held his fi rst runway including textiles and apparel, six shipping days from New York, show in March 1996 with a number of racy bou- its visibility. The duo added a lifestyle appeal have led to several Doha stale- for example, and also expounded doir looks in only two colors — black and tan. and a trendy edge to the brand, known for its mates. The most recent was last on the region’s abundance of raw Luxembourg-based holding group Redlux, fi ne Italian cashmere. They also brought new summer. At the urging of political materials. which controls the Dell’Acqua brand and the woven pieces into the collection. Last year, leaders, however, discussions re- “South Africa has two million Borbonese business, also owns Italian ac- Malo reported sales of $81 million and spring sumed this winter in Geneva. sheep and produces 60 percent of cessories company Redwall, footwear brand 2008 sales advanced 40 percent versus the Noting that it was 2 a.m. in the world’s mohair,” he said, noting Francesca Mambrini and clothing manufacturer same season the previous year. Geneva when he was addressing that the availability of oil in Angola Cherrygrove, a holding fi rm originally put to- Malo, which has shown in New York for the forum, Yerxa said, “I consider is another plus. “Cotton is a staple gether by the Arpels Group. Redlux acquired the the past four seasons, is carried in 400 sales this good practice for the all-night in sub-Saharan Africa. We have the companies in 2006. points worldwide, including Saks Fifth Avenue sessions I am anticipating.” Yerxa raw materials.” IT Holding tapped Aquilano and Rimondi and Barneys New York in the U.S., and in the cited areas of the negotiations that China has also had to deal with in July 2006 to reposition Malo and increase brand’s 30 namesake stores. he considers especially important ethical questions. Sun Rai Zhe, vice to the apparel and textile industry: president of the China National more tariff reductions, accords on Textile & Apparel Council, said the easing trade that encompass the issue of corporate social responsi- Kellwood Ends O Oscar, Liz Suit Licenses By Whitney Beckett It’s a complicated negotiating schedule O Oscar looks “ bout six weeks after Sun Capital for spring 2007. that has so far prevented us from making ASecurities Group LLC took over Kellwood Co., the licensing partnerships for O Oscar a breakthrough. We have had so many and Liz Claiborne brand suits and dresses have come to an end. false dawns. Offi cials from Oscar de la Renta and Liz ” — Rufus Yerxa, World Trade Organization Claiborne Inc. confi rmed the licensing agree- ments were over, though both declined com- ment on whose decision it was to end what movement of goods through ports bility is seen differently in China have been called unprofi table deals. Neither and agreement on trade services. than in the West. Sun Capital nor Kellwood returned calls. “I follow very closely the devel- “People might see the size and Sources had speculated that, after Sun opments in [the apparel and tex- the competition, but as an insider I completed its $762 million cash tender offer tile] industry,” he said. “It is one of see the pressure,” he said, highlight- for the $1.6 billion vendor, Kellwood could the engines of international trade ing the country’s efforts to instill lose some of its key licenses because of and it’s especially important to training programs in its factories. change-of-ownership exit clauses. many of the developing countries.” Ted Sattler, group executive vice Kellwood’s performance with licenses has Yerxa encouraged delegates to president of foreign operations for been spotty. The fi rm stumbled with its initial voice their opinions with their re- Phillips-Van Heusen Corp., said al- moderate launch of O Oscar in fall 2004 and spective governments. though governments differ on some then Kellwood pulled the plug in 2005. The “It’s clear we’ll see signifi cant issues, particularly environmental brand relaunched for fall 2007 as an exclusive tariff reduction, particularly in protection, many companies are better-priced line with Macy’s, but apparel products in [the apparel] sector,” leading the way. sales have underperformed. he said. “We could see reduction “No one knows what the future A spokeswoman for Oscar of 50 percent or more in some tar- will be like, but I would say it will de la Renta declined to say iff lines.” be signifi cantly different,” Sattler whether the apparel line will After Yerxa’s comments, the sec- said. “We’re in chapter two of a be continued with another ond day of Prime Source included 32-chapter book.” licensee. O Oscar is actively point of view,” Emanuel discussions on sourcing and logistics Among the 50 largest economies signing licensing agreements Chirico, PVH chairman and and corporate social responsibility. in the world, 13 are corporations, with Wathne Ltd. for hand- chief executive officer, said Felix Chung, chairman of the and “with that size comes respon- bags and small leather goods, on an earnings call last week. Hong Kong Apparel Society, de- sibility,” he said. and with Haskell Jewels Ltd. “We’ve decided, given the en- scribed the future for the 30,000 But China’s Sun said, “I don’t for jewelry. vironment that we’re in, it’s Hong Kong manufacturers based in trust certifi cation. It’s like a physi- Kellwood’s former not a business that we’d like China’s Pearl River Delta, long the cal exam. It only shows you how Halmode Apparel Inc. di- to bring back in-house in the production hub of the country. you are at the moment and where vision launched Claiborne short term, and by that I mean “The Central Government has you can improve. We’re taking the Dresses in fall 2003, and fol- the next two-to-four years. But made a clear statement to either harder road of training” factory lowed with Claiborne Suits on a long-term basis, if there’s relocate factories inland or to the owners and workers on proper pro- in spring 2004. not an improvement in perfor- western part of China or upgrade cedures and following regulations. Kellwood’s underper- mance, we will look at the op- production levels,” Chung said. “If Maren Böhm, corporate re- forming licenses with portunities as we go forward.” you want to keep the cost low, go to sponsibility representative for Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. Sources said Sun Capital of- another area because China has a Asia of OIA Shanghai, part of the for the Calvin Klein better fi cials are busy performing due big surplus and they are discourag- Otto Group, said the danger comes and bridge lines could be diligence on Kellwood, after ing exports and targeting the do- when people see corporate social next when they expire in not having the opportunity dur- mestic consumer market.” responsibility as “window dressing, 2012. According to sources, ing the six-month period dur- Chung said factories that move politically correct or just a brand- neither Sun nor PVH is pleased with the ing which the company made hostile advances will have to consider the substan- ing or marketing strategy. line’s performance. to take over the company, so decisions regard- tial increase in logistics costs, in- “We have to ask ourselves, ‘What “It’s been one licensed business that we’re ing keeping executives have yet to be made. cluding time, while those that don’t is the scope and what are the lim- not happy with the performance from a sales — With contributions from Evan Clark relocate will be expected to pro- its?’” she said. WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 5 WWD.COM

Eva Mendes The Green Mile in Rose.

Griffi n Dunne and Dennis No one sung “Kumbaya” at Tuesday night’s Natural Resources Defense Council “Forces Quaid in Dolce & Gabbana. for Nature” bash, but the event was as organic as a party held at Cipriani 42nd Street could get. The vegetarian lasagna was cooked with sustainably harvested ingredients; the program was made from recycled paper; the tulips were sourced from within 100 miles of the city, and organizers purchased renewable energy credits to offset the global warming emissions associated with guests’ travel to the dinner. (Too bad there wasn’t enough air-conditioning to offset the global warming occurring in the dining room.) Bank of America chief Ken Lewis and Mayor Michael Bloomberg were honored by the crowd, which included Laurie David, Dixon and Arriana Boardman, Tom and Kathy Freston and Chevy Chase. Christopher Mason serenaded Bloomberg with a slightly awkward medley on a portable keyboard, turning tunes like the Jackson 5’s “ABC” into “PlaNYC” after the mayor’s environmental initiative. The mayor and his girlfriend, Diana Taylor, then made a quick exit to catch the Yankees’ season- opening game. “And for the record,” he said, “we’re taking IRT.” A few blocks away, Blythe Danner, Patricia Clarkson and Parker Posey fi led into MoMA for a screening of Thomas McCarthy’s sophomore directorial effort “The Visitor.” “You will never guess where I bought these earrings,” bragged Clarkson clad in a Dolce & Gabbana dress. “Sears! They came free with a washer and dryer.” ▼ Nearby, Tina Brown and Vicky Ward cohosted a party for Susan Nagel’s book, “Marie ▼ Sarah Jessica Parker in Therese: Child of Terror,” a biography of Marie Antoinette’s daughter, who spent years a Jil Sander jacket, Rag in prison, was never told how her father died, and married Louis Antoine, who served & Bone and Marni. as the king of France for exactly 20 minutes. (It was the middle of another revolution in France.) “It was just a horrifying life,” said Brown. “And I think people must have just been different back then. You couldn’t complain. It wasn’t like now where you can go on Oprah.” On Monday, the fi lm “Smart People,” was screened by the Cinema Society and Allure’s Linda Wells at the Landmark Sunshine Theater. As the title suggests, the movie depicts a slew of brainy folks, including a Carnegie Mellon professor (Dennis Quaid) and his ne’er-do-well brother (Thomas Haden Church) partaking in some less- than-genius antics. Post-screening, co-star Sarah Jessica Parker and hubby Matthew Broderick headed to the Bowery Hotel with Eva Amurri, Jane Fonda, Jessica Seinfeld, Rocco DiSpirito, Isla Fisher and Cynthia Nixon. Quaid, accompanied by his teenage son Jack, was uncertain he’d been appropriately cast. “I’m not really all that smart,” he said. In Los Angeles, stylists Britt Bardo and Jewels threw a rooftop luncheon at the Roosevelt Hotel on Tuesday to celebrate the launch of their new line, Rose. In attendance were Elizabeth Banks, Sarah Chalke and Eva Mendes, fresh from shooting the latest Calvin Klein perfume and underwear ads and wearing a fl oor-length Rose gown. She may have been a bit overdressed for the casual affair, but Mendes has a rule to not leave the house without looking put together. “These days, you never know,” Bobby Kennedy and Mayor she said. “The paparazzi jump out of the bushes at you.” Michael Bloomberg

Tina Brown

Tom Freston and ANTONOV PASHA MIYE BY his wife Kathy Elizabeth Banks in in a Balmain Kay Unger with Sarah blouse and Peter Chalke in Gucci. Dixon and Arriana Boardman Som skirt. Ellen Barkin and Ryan Gosling at MoMA.

Irene throw things together and photograph them. I use Mamiye ROSE-COLORED GLASSES Mamiye the camera as a paintbrush,” she says of her time- consuming technique. “Sometimes I don’t even look athrooms aren’t generally a creative hotbed for budding artists. When you through the lens.” Bare a mother of fi ve, however, you’ll take what you can get. And so it was in The resulting prints are often so impressionistic 2005 that Irene Mamiye stumbled upon her abstract photographic aesthetic by and brightly hued — sometimes thanks to some painting the shower door and then using her digital camera to observe the play Photoshop tweaking — that their original subject of light through the room’s window. matter isn’t immediately obvious. A series entitled Mamiye, 50, had been taking classes for years at the International Center of “Flutter” features close-up images of dangling pressed Photography and The New School while raising her three daughters and two butterfl ies, while “Collisions” represents one of her sons. Once her youngest was in school full-time, she decided to follow suit and frequent forays into nature, with the South Jersey enrolled in New York University’s Gallatin independent study program. And it Shore providing a gradient of blurred streaks. Most was a self-portrait assignment while there that sparked her current body of work. of her photographs are produced on a large scale (a “I don’t like to take pictures of myself, so I kept fi nding myself going behind 40-inch-by-60-inch piece might go for $6,800), and since things: I was behind glass and these bars,” explains Mamiye, who now works participating in a group show in July she has sold some out of a studio in the attic of her 80 works. Brooklyn home. “I wanted to “Bloom 1, 2008” Mamiye’s own story is as diverse as the materials abstract myself. It ended up being she uses. Her parents fl ed Egypt in 1957 as refugees very revealing.” and arrived on French shores, where Mamiye was Indeed, Mamiye now applies born. She spent her childhood as one of very few a similar approach to her Jews in Marseilles and then moved with her family to growing series of photographs. Brooklyn at age 13. She met her husband, a children’s wear manufacturer and Using playful, often eccentric licensing agent, when she was 19 and married at 20. objects such as colored glass And, considering that her images often call to mind, say, a Dries Van Noten rods, Lucite circles and a tie print, it comes as no surprise that the artist has been approached by fashion blanket, she sets up still lifes designers to turn her photographs into textiles. Though she would be pleased to and then spends hours snapping see a woman donning a dress with one of her playful, colorful patterns, Mamiye, them, striving to capture a who chose a black leather jacket and skinny jeans for the interview, won’t be kaleidoscope of light effects. sporting her own art. “Defi nitely not,” she smiles. “I don’t plan anything. I just — Vanessa Lawrence SMART PEOPLE, NRDC AND BROWN PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; ROSE PARTY BY DONATO SARDELLA; JIMI CELESTE/PMC; MA BARKIN AND GOSLING BY DONATO BY STEVE EICHNER; ROSE PARTY PEOPLE, NRDC AND BROWN PHOTOS BY SMART 6 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 Do the Right

A YEAR AGO, KATIE WHITE AND JULES DE MARTINO WERE JUST TWO FRIENDS JAMMING IN A studio space in a former cotton mill in Manchester, England. They dubbed themselves The Ting Tings — the name of a Chinese woman White used to work with at Selfridges — and invited friends to a show. “It was an excuse to get drunk and have a party,” laughs De Martino. “We were on stage playing rubbish.” “Rubbish” must be in the ear of the beholder, because the party was a hit, and soon led to bigger gatherings. Word spread, and the duo started drawing upward of 150 people who came to hear White, 23, on vocals and guitar, and De Martino, 33, on drums. Their self-described DIY-garage- pop is an infectious concoction, with traces of the Talking Heads and the Spice Girls. The Ting Tings’ catchy mix worked — and got the attention of record producer Rick Rubin (now co-chairman of Columbia Records), who spotted them playing at a club when they visited Los Angeles last summer. Since then it’s been an indie band’s fan- tasy — Columbia Records signed them and they’re releasing their fi rst album, “We Started Nothing,” in July. “We’ve been able to fi nish our album ourselves in the place we had our par- ties. They don’t interfere — they just support us,” says De Martino of the free- dom the label has given them in terms of producing their songs and letting them choose their album art and the bands with whom they tour. Fashion-wise, Columbia is also hands-off, trusting White and De Martino to follow the same DIY instincts they started with in the cotton mill. “We don’t have to fi ght off [stylists],” White jokes. She channels Edie Sedgwick and Blondie with heavy eye makeup and two-toned bleached hair and is a fan of Urban Outfi tters, which has a slightly higher-end sensibility in the U.K. than here in the U.S. She also makes her own clothes, such as a cro- cheted doily dress. But with The Ting Tings fast entering the limelight, White is open to a fashion upgrade: “Now that we’ve got a record deal, I bought a pair of Miu Miu boots that I adore and a Balenciaga top that I’m wearing to death.” As for her partner, De Martino says he “likes things that look worn,” but admits he isn’t good at naming labels. He considers Sid Vicious an infl uence, along with his Fender 78 Stratocaster. De Martino lives in his Lee jeans because they fi t well and are broken in, and he wears a Dsquared leather jacket, he claims, more to stay warm than to look cool. Still, fashion is only part of their musical look, and they often wear whatever they happen to have on that day (the doily dress has made a stage appearance). They also experi- ment with lighting and onstage projects, and Andy Warhol in- spired the video for the single “Great D.J.,” shot with the pair dancing against a backdrop of fl ashing blocks of color. “When we go on to perform in bigger shows, we want to be quite experimental,” White says. Along the way, they’ll no doubt preserve their DIY spirit. — Tara Bonet-Black

Jules in Acne’s cotton denim shirt. Sean John sunglasses. Katie in MadeMe’s cotton T-shirt. Bess made-to-order custom headphones; MNG by Mango bangle. WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 7 WWD.COM Ting ASSISTANTS: NICK AXELROD AND DANIELLE SPONDER; STYLED BY KIM FRIDAY NICK AXELROD AND DANIELLE SPONDER; STYLED BY ASSISTANTS:

Katie in Bryce & Bouji’s silk and nylon vest, Joline Jolink’s cotton dress and Ksubi’s nylon leggings. MNG by Mango bangles; Kristen Lee boots. Jules in Cheap Monday’s nylon jacket, Earnest Sewn’s cotton T-shirt and Levi’s cotton denim jeans. Ray-Ban sunglasses; Adidas sneakers. PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; HAIR BY WESLEY O’MEARA FOR KERASTASE PARIS AND MAKEUP BY KATEY DENNO, BOTH AT THE WALL GROUP; FASHION THE WALL BOTH AT DENNO, KATEY AND MAKEUP BY PARIS FOR KERASTASE WESLEY O’MEARA GEORGE CHINSEE; HAIR BY PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 WWD.COM The Beat Wicked Fashions Diversifi es Its Portfolio By Julee Kaplan the back waistband. The WhiteTag line will retail from $39 to $59. Here, a look from ith three brands launching, Wicked Fashions Inc. Southpole Collection, an extension of the fl agship Wckd, a line created for the mass market, Wis facing a big year. brand, will be a more dressed-up, fashion-driven sports- The Fort Lee, N.J.-based parent company of junior wear line consisting of printed jersey tops and dresses, and left, a style from sportswear labels Southpole and Lot29 is expanding its dark jeans, jackets and career suiting. Southpole Collection, portfolio with the addition of Wckd, a junior line for the “This girl wears Southpole, but she is a bit more grown- a dressier version of mass market; WhiteTag, a West Coast-inspired midtier col- up now,” Strumeier said. “She goes to the club, she has a Southpole. lection, and Southpole Collection, a line of more fashion- job, she wants to get more dressed up and isn’t looking for forward junior sportswear. Also, the company is retooling a logo as much anymore. It’s sexy, elegant and chic, which its fl agship brands. After all the changes take effect, David is, again, something that was missing in the midtier.” Strumeier, vice president of marketing, licensing and new Southpole Collection, which will launch for fall, has business development for Wicked Fashions, said the com- already been picked up by Sears, Mervyns and Against pany will bring in $1.5 billion in retail sales this year. All Odds. The line retails from $30 to $130. “Through research, we are able to see when there “All of our brands are carefully segmented so is a missing ingredient at retail and then come there is a distinct point of differentiation between up with a quick recipe for that,” Strumeier said, them,” Strumeier said. “You will never see the noting that the Wicked headquarters in Fort Lee same product at a different price.” houses 400 employees, 200 of whom are part of In addition to the new brands on tap, Wicked the design teams. “What we found for WhiteTag has reworked Southpole’s designs to carry a slim- was the need for something fresh in the midtier, mer fi t, bolder art and surf- and skate-inspired something to keep customers in the stores. For detailing to broaden the appeal of the Wckd, there was a need for more fashion in the brand. Also within the Southpole line, the mass market. Everything was so basic.” company has developed a denim replen- Wckd, Strumeier said, was created for mass ishment program that is broken down into retailers and is now being sold at Kmart stores three key fi ts — the Rock ’n’ Roll (low-rise nationwide. Also for spring, the line will go into skinny jeans), Freestyle (low-rise boot-cut Mervyns and Against All Odds stores. The col- design) and the Rave (a low-rise wide-leg lection, which includes denim jeans, polos and style). The new fi ts will come with new hang- graphic T-shirts, retails from $19.99 to about $29 tags explaining the details of each fi t. and targets a consumer who would like to wear the “We are constantly working to evolve the Southpole brand, but cannot afford it. fl agship brand,” Strumeier said. “It used to WhiteTag, which will launch young men’s ex- be an urban/hip-hop label, but we’ve had a clusively with J.C. Penney stores for fall, will great deal of success with the crossover cus- launch juniors at Penney’s for spring 2009. That tomer.” Based on market research, he esti- line, which also has graphic T-shirts, denim jeans mates Southpole’s customer base is 40 percent Boop and Wonder Woman into its junior assortment. (a boot cut, skinny and straight leg) and hoodies, Caucasian, 28 percent Hispanic, 26 percent “We used to focus on the character and design is inspired by the West Coast rock ’n’ roll scene, African-American and 6 percent Asian, Native around the character,” Strumeier said. “Now we focus with tattoo-style graphic prints heavily repre- American and mixed race. on the design and fi t the character into it. So now the sented. WhiteTag’s design team created all Lot29, which has become known for its char- characters are still seen, but are a bit more modern and of the artwork exclusively for the brand and acter-driven apparel with Tweety Bird as a pop- subtle in the graphics.” small details seen on the product identify it ular graphic found on everything from T-shirts Next up, Strumeier said he is working on the devel- with the brand name, such as with the signa- and hoodies to jeans, also will be redesigned. opment of two more brands. Those, he said, will launch ture white tag which loops over the top of And new for fall, Lot29 will incorporate Betty for spring and fall 2009. New Parent for Boy Meets Girl Brown’s Study in Contemporary NEW YORK — Oved Apparel Corp. is getting and pants as staples and 40 percent fashion NEW YORK — As an owner of Tag Sale Textiles, a vintage fabric firm, into contemporary. based, showing novelty tops, dresses and and ITW (It’s The Weekend), a misses’ weekendwear line, designer The parent company of such urban jackets. Wholesale prices range between Claude Brown is ready to get into something a bit more contemporary. brands as Dr. Jay’s, Akademiks and Mecca, $20 and $60, which is, on average, about $10 After a soft launch for spring, Claude Brown, a new contemporary as well as PRPS, a high-end denim brand, less expensive than it used to be. sportswear line, will have a full-fl edged launch for fall. The line is and Company 81, a sporty men’s label, has “I’m really going after that young contem- designed with many of Brown’s vintage prints from his Tag Sale collec- become well known in the porary customer, since tion (which houses more than 250,000 pieces of vintage fabric). It con- men’s wear arena. Now there is such a void in that sists of wool coats and jackets with printed silk linings, printed jersey Oved has invested in the A dress arena,” Morgenstern Igel dresses, silk blouses and high-waisted pants and skirts. Wholesaling women’s category with from Boy said. “The best way to de- from $80 to $250, the collection is available at the Susie Lehr show- the acquisition of young Meets Girl scribe the young contem- room here at 231 West 39th Street. contemporary brand Boy by Deesh. porary customer is stylish, In addition to Brown, the company is owned by Brown’s life partner, Meets Girl by Deesh, a edgy and sexy. She is a Neil Cohen, and their best friend, Randi Matalon. six-year-old label found- young modern girl ranging “We’ve been in this business for a long time and I didn’t want to ed by Stacy Morgenstern in age from 16 to 35. She launch a collection like this until I knew we had something really Igel. Oved purchased has grown up in the world special,” Brown said. “There are a majority stake from of celebrity, she is technol- so many lines out there, but I truly A coat Morgenstern Igel and all ogy-savvy — she has the believe we have something that from rights from JARS Designs, Internet at her fi ngertips, women will want to buy.” Claude the brand’s former licens- writes and reads the fash- He said the collection is created Brown. ee. Terms of the deal were ion and trend blogs and is with close attention to the details, not disclosed, but market making her own unique such as the ribbon-lined interior sources said the label was style. I think it is all about seams on a coat and the sparkling likely purchased for about the attitude. Also, in this ev- crystal buttons on a silk blouse. He $8 million. er-changing economy, being even has a skirt and jacket in the “We are confi dent that at a great price point is key line that comes with an acrylic and Boy Meets Girl will contrib- to building brand loyalty.” gold button, which Brown found ute to our brand strategy,” While Morgenstern Igel from an old collection belonging to said David Oved, president said she wants to carefully John Galliano. of Oved Apparel. “Stacy grow the brand over time, “For years we have been provid- Morgenstern Igel is a tal- plans are in the works for ing inspiration to so many design- ented designer and has a great energy, and we brand extensions, as she said she would like to ers with our vintage fabrics, I knew see great potential for brand development.” launch accessories ranging from socks to hand- we could also do it ourselves,” said That brand development has already bags. Also, in about three years, Oved hopes Brown, who has a doctorate in begun. With Morgenstern Igel still at the to open Boy Meets Girl freestanding stores. 20th-century Spanish theater and creative helm, the brand is now based out of “Right now we are focusing on our whole- was a professor at the University Oved’s headquarters at 31 West 34th Street sale and hoping to grow that business,” of Nebraska. here. Since the brand has been known Morgenstern Igel said. The line has been picked up by for its signature boy and girl profi le logo, The line is sold in about 60 special- select specialty stores nationwide Morgenstern Igel said she will interpret it ty stores worldwide and has just been such as Fred Segal in Los Angeles in new ways, such as in an allover print on a picked up by Neiman Marcus Cusp for fall. and Searle in Manhattan. Brown hoodie or in a more subtle way, as on a zip- Morgenstern Igel said she expects to reach said he expects to reach $2.5 mil- per pull. Also, she said, the collection has $25 million in wholesale volume within the lion in wholesale sales volume in become more focused, with 60 percent of the next fi ve years. the collection’s fi rst year. line made as activewear with hoodies, tanks — J.K. — J.K. Congratulations Harper’s Bazaar!

576734D1_HB_A-BAZAAR-WWD FINAL.i1 1 4/2/08 4:01:52 PM 10 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 WWD.COM Denim Report Marco Bortoletti Departs Replay By Andrew Roberts MILAN — It’s game over for Marco Bortoletti at Replay. The chief executive offi cer of Fashion Box, the hold- ing company of the Replay, Replay & Sons and We Are Replay brands, is leaving the group at the end of the month, the company said. Bortoletti and Replay representatives declined to comment on specifi c reasons for his departure. “Replay has been an extraordinary adventure dur- ing my career, with its many exciting challenges and great deal of satisfaction,” Bortoletti said. “After 18 years spent working intensively within the group, and especially after the last seven years with the parent company, I feel the time has come for me to follow a The store’s new direction and a new life plan.” interior features Bortoletti’s next move — and whether he is to re- vibrant colors. tain his 10 percent holding in the group — is unclear.

PHOTOS BY TIM JENKINS PHOTOS BY Fashion Box said that Bortoletti’s ownership stake has not been decided and that it would name a new group ceo in the coming weeks. Paola Buziol Dametto, Fashion Box’s majority DKNY Jeans Opens London Flagship shareholder and widow of company founder Claudio By Samantha Conti still-under-construction Westfield in Europe and Asia, as well as shopping mall in west London. managing DKNY Jeans freestand- Marco Bortoletti LONDON — DKNY Jeans has There are fi ve DKNY Jeans stores ing stores and in-store shops. A splashed a shock of taxicab yellow in Turkey, and one in Greece, with company spokeswoman said the in- in central London with the opening another in the pipeline. house Club 21 team had been work- of its first European flagship. “After the U.S., the U.K. is the ing closely with the DKNY Jeans The 4,400-square-foot store in a second-largest market for DKNY,” team to fi ne-tune the line for the former antiques gallery is DKNY said Mark Weber, chairman and chief European market. Jeans’ largest freestanding unit in executive offi cer of Donna Karan Prices range from 79 to 120 Europe and features bright yellow International. “London was the obvi- pounds, or $156 to $237 at current and black shelves and display cabi- ous city of choice for the DKNY Jeans exchange, for jeans. Leather jack- nets, screaming yellow outerwear European fl agship and it has eagerly ets range from 450 to 500 pounds, or and even yellow jeans. embraced the DKNY brand.” $889 to $998. The store also stocks The two-fl oor space, with men’s The line is also sold in London DKNY accessories, watches, shoes, wear on the ground fl oor and women’s stores such as Selfridges and House sneakers, bags and sunglasses to downstairs, recalls the airy art galler- of Fraser. complement the Jeans collection. ies of Manhattan’s Chelsea neighbor- The DKNY Jeans license for the To mark the opening of the store, hood. Packing crates are used to dis- U.K. and Asia is held by Singapore- DKNY Jeans will hold a VIP event play merchandise, and plasma screens based Club 21 Retail Holdings. on April 10, with a yet-to-be-con- show off the spring ad campaign. Owned by Christina Ong, Club 21 fi rmed band playing in the street- The store at 124 New Bond has been partners with Donna front window. DKNY Jeans will Street is a fi ve-minute walk from Karan International since 1995 for also be conducting a “cool hunting” London’s DKNY fl agship on New some Asian markets. It also manag- campaign, where scouts will snap Bond Street. DKNY Jeans also has es brands including Giorgio Armani, pictures of men and women who stores on Brompton Road in London Balenciaga, Marni and ck Calvin embody the spirit of the brand. The and in Manchester, Liverpool and Klein in various markets. images will be incorporated into a Birmingham. The majority of the Club 21 manufactures, markets window collage at the store, in col- U.K. stores are located in shopping and distributes the DKNY Jeans ap- laboration with students at Central malls. A sixth store is slated for the parel collection for men and women Saint Martins. Buziol, said: “Our work to continue and expand a proj- ect started many years ago will go on with the same commitment and enthusiasm as ever, and we would The DKNY Jeans like to wish Marco all the very best for the future.” store on prestigious Bortoletti is credited with driving the rapid expan- New Bond Street. sion of the 27-year-old denim and sportswear group since Buziol died of a heart attack in 2005. Fashion Box has not released consolidated results for 2007. However, Bortoletti said in December sales were expected to be in line with 2006 fi gures of 350 million euros, or $437.5 million at average exchange for the period. The company is expanding its product portfolio and reach, particularly in Asia, where it plans store openings over the next three years. The company also has moved to strengthen its footwear business, one of its fastest-growing segments. In March, Fashion Box said it was forming a joint venture, dubbed Orient Box, with Hong-Kong-based Sugi International Ltd. for the production and distribution of Replay-branded footwear worldwide. Sugi International has held the li- cense for Replay footwear for almost a decade. “There are two aims behind the creation of Orient Box,” Bortoletti said last month. “On the one hand, to reinforce our collaboration with a partner that has been offering us dedicated, wholehearted support for nine years now, and on the other, to give us a more direct con- trol over what for us has become a strategic activity.” He added that footwear has achieved double-digit growth over the last two years, reaching about $80 mil- lion in sales in 2007. In the U.S., the company continues to use its New York fl agship in SoHo as both store and event space. The Prince Street location is getting a makeover in preparation for Earth Week, which runs April 21 to 25. The windows will feature eco-friendly art for the month. In honor of Earth Day, the company has tapped singer-songwriter Ben Jelen to perform a free concert at the store on April 22. The company will also donate 10 percent of all sales from the store during the week to the Ben Jelen Foundation, with the goal of educat- ing and raising awareness of environmental issues.

12 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 Luxe Brands Follow the By Cate T. Corcoran uxury and designer brands have Lwoken up to the Web — and it could be a bright spot in these tough economic times. After years of ignoring e-tailing, luxury and designer brands are fi nally opening up shop online in sizable num- bers. Recent entrants include Prada, Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney, Boucheron, Bulgari, De Beers and jeweler Karen Karsh. In the future, expect Calvin Klein and Pucci. Already selling top-of-the-line handbags, shoes, accessories or ready- to-wear for more than a year are Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Oscar de la Renta, Judith Leiber, Christian Dior, Hermès, Burberry, Tiffany and Ralph Lauren. David Yurman and Ferragamo have shops created by Neiman Marcus, which are evolving into stores with a more stand-alone feel and distinctive look. (Neiman Marcus also runs a co- branded store for Armani Collezioni, where jackets start at about $2,000.) Early efforts focused heavily on acces- sories and footwear, but substantial offerings of rtw are becoming readily available, as at YSL, Gucci and Marni. Holdouts include Chanel and Donna Karan, which do have online shops but only for lower-priced lines and beauty. On Wednesday, Stella McCartney opened an online store for the U.S. In December, Prada opened an online store serving Europe and the U.K. (A U.S. version is due soon, although the company declined to be more specifi c.) Vuitton opened its U.S. online store in November, and YSL opened an American shop, which features a striking graphical Mondrian-like design, in October. “I think eventually every compa- ny that runs stores will have e-com- merce,” predicted Mark Lee, chief executive offi cer of Gucci, which is widely regarded as a leader in online commerce for opening its store in 2002 and handling the technical side in-house. “Whatever the initial fears or reluctance, people are embracing it. It doesn’t harm the brand in any way, and it’s also very profi table.” Indeed. The wealthy do more shop- ping online and spend twice as much as other consumers, according to Forrester Research Inc. In 2005, the most recent year for which fi gures are available, lux- ury customers — defi ned as those who shop at sites such as Neiman Marcus — spent an estimated $12 billion on all types of goods online, not just luxury, excluding travel. For 2007, the size of the luxury mar- ket for just apparel and accessories on- line is expected to reach approximately $1 billion at least, said Forrester ana- lyst Sucharita Mulpuru. And despite problems in the broader economy, for now “the luxury market online now is still going strong,” she said. Retailers realize the wealthy cus- tomer is online and wants to buy. “When we launched the site, we were told e-commerce was all about dis- counting and price comparison,” said Brendan Hoffman, president and ceo of Neiman Marcus Direct. Now the retail- er is taking in $500 million in revenues from its combined sites and catalogues, which include Horchow, Bergdorf Goodman and Chef, in addition to Neiman Marcus. At neimanmarcus.com, fi ne jewelry is a new focus, with an av- erage price of about $7,000. Oscar de la Renta, Stella McCartney, Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent are some of the fastest growing labels in rtw. “I think there is a customer for whom money is no object, and that customer exists online as well,” said The look of luxury online (clockwise from top left): Net-a-porter, Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Ferragamo and Alex Bolen, ceo of Oscar de la Renta, Marni stores. WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 13 WWD.COM Money – to the Internet

which opened a store selling $2,400 handbags, shoes of sitting down with a cup of tea with the best shop per- “This is an additive business, business we wouldn’t averaging $500 to $800, accessories and fragrance in son or expert on fashion and discussing the latest trends otherwise be getting, just like Neiman Marcus and spe- 2006. (The store has been temporarily removed and and trying them on. The difference is trying them on at cialty boutiques and Oscar de la Renta can all exist in will relaunch in the next few months with more catego- home, in the privacy of one’s own space, which in itself the same market and have different points of view and ries of merchandise, said a spokeswoman. In the mean- is a luxury.” different takes,” said Bolen. “This allows us to address time, customers can order over the telephone through Bergdorf Goodman recently took the idea of replicat- different customers online in just another way.” a personal shopper.) ing the in-store experience to a new level with a simple Many executives likened the online frontier to China Gucci has sold several very expensive handbags on- yet effective interface that makes the customer feel as if and other developing parts of the world that are grow- line, including the $7,990 Mink Indy. Merchandise online she is moving through the store. A drawing of the building ing quickly. and off has always been very similar, and in February facade shows each fl oor. Clicking on a fl oor brings up a “I see no reason why that the momentum shouldn’t con- Gucci added women’s rtw to the U.S. store. In 2006, the photo of the fl oor and a list of designers sold there. tinue in the coming years,” said Gucci’s Lee. The general brand’s online business grew more than 65 percent. Designer fi rms are fi nding the online customer is no trend, as Gucci has done, is for brands to start selling in the “The only channel that grew faster was China,” said Lee. different from the one who shops in person. She may live U.S. and English-speaking countries, then move into conti- Gucci did not break out e-commerce fi gures for 2007, but in a big city and shop the online store when she is pressed nental Europe, then Asia, then other parts of the world. as of September the company was operating Web stores for time or buying a gift, said Tomaso Galli, group com- “In the rest of the world, the customer is not yet de- in 10 countries, including Italy and Switzerland. munications director for Prada. manding e-commerce at the same level as the American “Where this is coming from is consumer demand,” Alternatively, she may live far consumer, but it’s just a matter of time and it will hap- said Natalie Massenet, founder of multibrand fashion away and may or may not travel pen, and our goal is to stay ahead of that curve and that and accessories e-tailer Net-a-porter.com, which, in the frequently to New York at the demand,” said Lee. fi scal year ended Jan. 31, 2007, had revenues of 37.2 mil- right time to buy, he said. It’s unclear how the economic downturn will affect lion pounds, or $73.9 million at current exchange rates. At neimanmarcus.com, the luxury business, although most observers remain “Customers now expect it, particularly from the big about half the customers Gucci’s $7,990 bullish. brands. [Not having e-commerce] would be like going to come from within brick- Mink Indy bag “Up to now, everyone’s been really worried,” said a store at one in the afternoon and having a sign on the and-mortar store trading was a hit online. Guy Salter, deputy chairman of luxury trade group door saying, ‘We’re currently not selling from this store.’” areas. “We have only Walpole of London. “They’ve been thinking about 38 store locations, it nonstop, but today — particularly at Christmas so there are lots of — performance wasn’t that bad. There is a cloud pockets that don’t hanging over everyone but no solid evidence of I think eventually every have access to any serious impact yet.” “ Neiman Marcus, If sales in the luxury sector slow down, on- company that runs stores will and through the line sales could decrease in parallel or keep have e-commerce. Web they do,” growing. “We are probably in a unique po- said Hoffman. sition in that we are in a business that is ”— Mark Lee, Gucci The store has growing overall,” said Massenet. “Every day been hold- and every month, customers are turning to ing events in the Internet to shop, so we are adopting new Luxury brands once feared selling online would tarnish areas where customers, and are coming at it from being a their aura of exclusivity, and fashion companies disliked it has a siz- new business and a new way of shopping.” the look of the online environment. They even feared put- able numbers She noted that expensive items sell best, ting up clear images online would encourage counterfeit- of Web custom- and said the company expects to add 5,000 cus- ing and online stores might make it easier for counterfeit- ers but no store, tomers in 2008. “I think we will ride this out,” ers and gray market distributors to buy. But the Web is such as Seattle and she said. quickly losing its low-rent reputation. Nashville. Overall, the online environment may change the re- Selling online does not alter your customer base, said It is not unusual for frequent lationship between the customer and the brand as the Massenet, although it might expand it. “Democracy is online luxury shoppers to be cash-rich and time poor. customer expresses herself through social media and by great from an access perspective. Being able to reach That is often the case at Net-a-porter, where 19 percent voting with her pocketbook. more customers has got to be a great thing. Still, [to buy of customers are busy ceo’s and executives, typically in “Online retailing is the simple bit, even though it’s luxury] you have to be able to afford the brand and have banking and media. taken a long time for luxury businesses to see the op- the lifestyle to wear it,” she said. Not everyone can buy a “Now there is a consumer for whom luxury is service portunity there,” said Walpole’s Salter. “The next level Roland Mouret dress just because it is available online, and time. But the desire for the product is the same,” of interaction is the opportunity for dialogue that Web for example. said Massenet. 2.0 represents.” And of course, a Web store can be highly profi table. Good online customer service should make shop- Now that small family fi rms have become global, they “I hope this is not too blunt, but people are follow- ping online nearly effortless for the customer. Neiman beam out their power through traditional advertising, ing the money,” said Bolen. “They’ve seen the success of Marcus offers help via phone, e-mail or live chat 24/7, Neiman Marcus, Saks and Net-a-porter. These examples an easy return policy, and good visuals with zoom and are becoming very important from a fi nancial perspec- detailed descriptions. The next step for the company is tive, not just as a brand message. They are generating a to bring in a fi t model to try on each garment so the re- I think there is a customer lot of profi t [for the brands].” tailer can specify if a garment fi ts tight, loose or true to “ The ubiquity of high-bandwidth connections, com- size, said Hoffman. for whom money is no object, bined with creative design, has improved the look of Because customers like to see four or fi ve views of each online stores. Luxury brands prefer sites that resemble item, including the inside of a bag, eFashion Solutions and that customer exists online print advertising rather than software. LLC of Secaucus, N.J., which handles e-commerce and Createthe group, an interactive agency whose many fulfi llment for Judith Leiber, recently enlarged its photo as well. fashion clients include David Yurman, advocates using studio to keep up with increasing demand. The same stu- ” — Alex Bolen, Oscar de la Renta art and photographs that convey a mood and a feeling, dio can produce shots for online ad campaigns, editorial- rather than merely information. Even product shots can style trend pages and online video. look better when the backgrounds aren’t plain black or The company can send a handwritten thank-you card fashion shows and stores, which function as temples. white, said ceo James Gardner. when a luxury customer makes an online purchase. But luxury customers are becoming more discerning, Better design options convinced Marni to open its Luxury fi rms also should consider rewarding their and in the future brands will need to treat them as own store online, in August 2006. “I think everyone best customers with special perks, such as access to equals rather than disciples, Salter said. knows this is the time to do it,” said Gianni Castiglioni, online VIP areas where they might be able to purchase “The great opportunity that Web 2.0 has brought is the the company’s ceo. In the past, many brands were ap- items not available to the general public, said eFashion ability to interact with people in a whole new way,” said proached by other retailers to create Web stores “but the Solutions ceo Ed Foy. Salter. “Some brands realize it’s good to bare their soul a approach to the product was really dead, really old,” he “Tease ’em, don’t offer the whole line,” he advised. little more and entertain comments from customers both said. Marni’s store creatively tries to offer customers the Or retailers can let customers sign up for hot items in positive and negative. I see a day when people will meet same experience as in a brick-and-mortar Marni store, advance, as Net-a-porter has done. each other in the context of commercial brands,” he said. with a look that changes with the season, similar stock, Bottega Veneta, which opened its online store in For example, a brand-related social networking site could sales help via phone or e-mail 24 hours a day, and sug- December 2005, has a personal shopper dedicated to be very useful for luxury customers who want recommen- gestions for complimentary purchases. the site who can help clients who may not live near a dations from peers they trust. “When you enter our stores, somebody welcomes you, Bottega store pick out something from the site or from In the next month or so, Walpole plans to release explains a bit of the collection, and says, ‘This goes with the full collection during store hours. a report on what luxury fi rms are doing online. More this,’ so we try to give you the same experience online,” Retailers are fi nding that single-brand shops com- than 400 executives around the globe were contacted said Castiglioni. plement, rather than compete with, the existing multi- about their attitudes and spending plans regarding e- Net-a-porter also has tried to replicate the in-store brand boutiques. commerce and collaborative technologies such as user- experience, but in a fashion that works on the Web. “It’s very important that the brands have their fl agship generated reviews and blogs. “Where we can’t compete with stores is in the store store,” said Massenet, “and that there’s a mix between the “I think [online retail] is about offering the consumer environment, but it can be an equally good or better ex- fl agship and the multibrand stores online. The fl agship access, much smoother and faster access to goods,” said perience,” said Massenet. “It still has to be immersive creates an entirely immersive environment for that brand Massenet, “and creating much more of a dialogue be- and make the customers feel like they’re entering a great that the brand can control, and obviously the multibrand tween the consumer and the brand. I think it will be a new space. People who are spending a lot of money want experience is for positioning, marketing and cross-selling great opportunity for brands to understand the consum- to shop in a place that makes them feel great. For us, and to be seen amongst other brands that are similar to er better and for the consumer to get what they want that meant investing in the entertainment, the visuals them. Much in the same way a fl agship and clothes at and for there to be a much closer relationship between and putting a lot of effort into the editorial content on Barneys coexist beautifully. You go to each store for some- the two.” the site, which is very inspiring. It’s really the equivalent thing different.” — With contributions from Marc Karimzadeh 14 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 WWD.COM

Views of the Louis Vuitton displays and store at the Brooklyn Museum. Louis Vuitton’s Original Take on Fakes Continued from page one “We talked about what New York is famous or infamous for,” Lehman said. “When original designs, the French luxury goods house will be taking a novel, somewhat both residents and visitors think of purchases here, there is so much today on the intriguing route. Outside the museum, Vuitton is setting up 10 New York-style street in so many parts of the city, it’s become almost in a way identifi able with New street vendors — not to sell fakes, but rather authentic Louis Vuitton product and York. It’s also such a visual manifestation of the [counterfeit] issue that Vuitton special Monogramoufl age canvases that Murakami has created specifi cally for the thought that this was an interesting way to characterize the problem.” exhibition. Carcelle added, “The street vendors are not negative in themselves, they are part While it may seem lighthearted on the surface, the presentation is meant to un- of the life of the city. When they sell counterfeit goods, however, it’s detrimental to derscore just how serious Vuitton executives are taking the counterfeit trade, and the city itself.” how diligently they are working to stop copycats from getting their merchandise to The executive admitted to a sense of surprise among Vuitton executives when the consumers. idea for the installation was fi rst suggested. “We always thought that counterfeit requires zero tolerance for several reasons,” “It was daring, but on the other hand, talking about a very serious matter — counterfeit- Yves Carcelle, chairman and chief executive offi cer of Louis Vuitton, ing — through a process of a happening or installation is probably an original and unique told WWD in an exclusive interview. “It’s a gray economy that way to attract attention,” Carcelle said. “It shows that we are all committed: the world of escapes all rules of normal labor and normal economic rules art represented by the artist, by the museum, the world of luxury and the city itself.” and taxations, so it’s a bad thing for every state in the world. The Murakami exhibit opens its doors to the public on Saturday. Just like the Secondly, it’s bad for any kind of creativity, research and de- previous MOCA edition, it will feature a special 550-square-foot Vuitton boutique, lo- velopment, because if you don’t protect intellectual property, cated within the exhibit on the museum’s fi fth fl oor. The store will offer multicolor why should people dedicate time and energy to create?” monogram handbags and small leather goods, as well as 300 art canvas squares Carcelle will highlight the issue in a press conference featuring the new Monogramoufl age design, in with Brooklyn Museum director Arnold Lehman and coated canvas, denim and printed canvas. The New York City deputy mayor Ed Skyler prior to the ga- fi rst 50 of each edition will sell for $6,000, and la’s cocktail hour tonight. the second batch for $10,000. Murakami also Vuitton is no newcomer in the fi ght against coun- created three larger canvases, which will be terfeiters. This year also marks the centennial of auctioned at the gala tonight. its fi rst court case. In 1908, the brand won a ruling Sales from the Brooklyn Museum’s store from the Paris Appeal Court to halt the distribu- and the street vendors on the night of the tion of look-alike trunks. gala will benefi t the Federal Enforcement The luxury brand now employs a 40-member team Homeland Security Foundation. that focuses exclusively on protecting its trade- The Monogramoufl age collection featuring marks, designs, models, copyrights and luggage, handbags, small leather goods, costume domain names. The team is based in jewelry and ready-to-wear will launch at the Paris, with regional offi ces in New museum on June 1 and will be available at se- York, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Milan, Dubai, lect Vuitton stores worldwide starting June 15. Buenos Aires and Guangzhuo, China. Murakami told WWD that the collection

Since 2003, the company has con- had its origins a year or so ago, when he LTD. KIKI CO. MURAKAMI/KAIKAI 2000 TAKASHI ducted over 30,000 raids against indi- swung by Jacobs’ SoHo studio. “Marc had viduals or companies selling fake Vuitton a precise idea,” Murakami said, although merchandise. Last year alone, the firm Monogramoufl age isn’t his fi rst work in cam- directed more than 7,600 raids worldwide, oufl age: In the past, he has produced prints often seizing the fake merchandise and even featuring his iconic Mister DOB fi gure in a the manufacturing tools in order to prevent camoufl age setting. factories from returning to producing coun- On Monday, Murakami stopped by Vuitton’s terfeits. In addition, more than 24,000 legal pro- offi ces to sign each Monogramoufl age canvas ceedings were initiated on behalf of Vuitton last available at the museum. He said that offer- year, and over 750 Web sites selling fakes were ing such limited edition canvases that are forced to shut down. more accessible than some of his pricier art “It’s an ongoing process,” Carcelle said. “If you was something he always aspired to and he ask people working against the drug trade, it’s a daily no longer seems bothered that his multicol- thing of controlling the borders, investigating the ored designs for Vuitton have been knocked workshops and controlling the stores, or the tenants off. “People fi nally understand that this is the and landlords.” original,” he said. Carcelle had much praise for the fi ght against Clockwise from right: Takashi According to Carcelle, Vuitton’s love affair counterfeits in the U.S., particularly lauding New Murakami; the artist’s DOB with the arts and architecture dates back to its York for its program of going after landlords of Camoufl age, 2000; the 19th-century origins when the leather goods counterfeiters, which he said has signifi cantly re- Monogramoufl age canvases. house had close ties to Impressionist artists. duced the number of vendors around Canal Street. In the More recently, it has worked on special in- most recent case, New York City police offi cers raided a collec- store installations with the likes of Olafur Elíasson, James Turrell, Ugo Rondinone, tion of buildings in Chinatown occupying a city block in late February, Bob Wilson and Teresita Fernández. and seized more than $1 million in knockoff accessories and fragrances. “It’s educational because it puts millions of people in contact with artists that they “The message we’re sending to counterfeiting operators and their landlords probably never would have known,” Carcelle said. throughout the city is, whoever you are, wherever you are, we are going to shut you But the Murakami product collaboration probably remains the most iconic, and down,” Mayor Michael Bloomberg said at a press conference after the bust. has generated sales of Vuitton merchandise in the hundreds of millions of dollars “Thanks to the law, if you are a landlord and you authorize your tenant to sell coun- worldwide. its appeal is ongoing. And the tie with Vuitton has become intrinsically terfeits, you can be liable if the tenants cannot pay the fi ne,” Carcelle said. “There linked to Murakami and his public recognition. is a self-regulation about this, which is good. Our commitment is to fi ght not only by “We were expecting a big impact, but I don’t think anyone had imagined that nearly ourselves but really also with our colleagues. It’s a joint effort for everyone in luxury six years later, it would become one of the new eternal pillars of the vocabulary of and fashion and also pharmacy and automobile spare parts and so on. Louis Vuitton,” Carcelle said. “We think that by highlighting it in a happening way and not in a boring way, it will As for Murakami himself, he could imagine more Vuitton collaborations with make everybody more aware,” he added. Jacobs down the road, especially when they come with Vuitton-hosted events like The idea for the special installation at the Brooklyn Ball came up during a re- the one tonight. cent conversation Carcelle had with Lehman about intellectual property. The exhibit “The Louis Vuitton people are the highest-level, most professional party people,” he had ended its run at the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art on Feb. 11, and said. “They are the top of the top. At the MOCA party, people didn’t want to sit down. It

Lehman was looking for ways to give the opening a particularly Gotham spin. was so unique. It makes me think the Brooklyn party also will have a lot happening.” & MIAMI, © OF GALERIE EMMANUEL PERROTIN, PARIS JOHN AQUINO; DOB CAMOUFLAGE COURTESY BY ERICKSEN; MURAKAMI KYLE MUSEUM PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 15 WWD.COM Martin + Osa’s Virtual Launch New Investor Said Joining Selective PARIS — It looks like Selective Beauty — the French By David Moin beauty manufacturer and distributor — has selected some new shareholders. fter a less-than-stellar launch in According to sources, a new investor is arriving soon to A2006, Martin + Osa has some new- replace private equity fi rm 3i, which controls a 45 percent found confidence. stake in Selective Beauty. Christophe Cervasel and Corrado The brand, which touts “refi ned ca- Brondi, plus other managers, hold a 55 percent share. sual” styles for relaxed and comfortable The identity of the new investor could not immediately dressing but isn’t yet widely known, of- be learned. Cervasel, chairman of Selective Beauty Corp., fi cially launches a Web site for e-com- had no comment on the speculation. merce today, martinandosa.com, follow- Selective Beauty reported 2007 sales of 188 million ing a few weeks of testing. euros, or $258 million at average exchange, up 24 percent “For us, this is very much like re- year-on-year. That showing represented the company’s launching the brand,” said Laura Dubin- seventh consecutive year of double-digit growth. Wander, who became president of Martin Selective Beauty owns the worldwide fragrance or + Osa a year ago, after a management beauty licenses for brands such as Agent Provocateur, shake-up. MaxMara, Benetton and Marbert. Most recently, it inked “We are really pleased with the deals with John Galliano, Zac Posen and Jimmy Choo. spring assortment in stores now as well Among others, Selective Beauty has a distribution as upcoming collections,” she contin- agreement with Ferragamo Parfums for its Ferragamo ued. “They’re very feminine. We’re using and Emanuel Ungaro scents in the U.S. more color across the board and defi - In February 2007, Selective Beauty was divided into nitely there’s more value at each [price] four divisions, each charged with the full management tier of the assortment. In the women’s — including brand creativity, strategies, product devel- assortments, we are looking toward a opment, plus international commercial and marketing higher penetration of dresses, more implementation — of a limited number of brands. These feminine blouses, and color has been a include the luxury, prestige, fashion and lifestyle and dis- huge change.” Sweaters, denim, jackets, tribution divisions. cashmere, merino wool and cotton also — Jennifer Weil are emphasized. As far as the Web site, “We feel it’s state-of-the-art,” Dubin-Wander said. Previously, Martin + Osa received New GM at Giorgio Armani Beauty criticism on several fronts. First, for not n an effort to unify the cosmetics and fragrance being feminine enough. Then, the store Ibusiness of Giorgio Armani, L’Oréal has promoted rollout was slow initially, but seems Stephane de la Faverie to general manager of Giorgio steady now, with 20 stores open and a Armani Beauty. total of 35 expected to be operating by In the new post, which he took Wednesday, de la the end of this year. In addition, there Faverie reports to Valérie Chapoulaud, president of the was diffi culty drawing customers to the Luxury Products Group of New York-based L’Oréal USA. stores and getting them to shop. De la Faverie’s new duties were previously handled by However, according to Dubin-Wander, Serge Jureidini, president of Designer Fragrances, who “conversions for spring have been very handled Giorgio Armani Parfums, and Chris Salgardo, encouraging. Fewer people are walking president of Specialty Brands Group, who oversaw Giorgio out of the stores empty-handed.” Armani Beauty, She said it was too early to project Martin + Osa’s Web site features a “layering page” for customers to handling cosmet- a volume for the Web site, but pointed create their own outfi ts. ics, skin care and out that the parent, American Eagle the Privé brand. Outfi tters, has been successful with e- “As the Giorgio BEAUTY BEAT commerce, noting that AEO Direct, which includes With the Web launch, “we open up ourselves to Armani brand is e-commerce and call-in sales, is a $240 million busi- a much greater percentage of the target population an extremely strategic part of the Luxury Products Group ness. AEO had total sales of $3.06 billion last year. that we are going after,” Dupuis said. “They happen portfolio, we are uniting the [Armani] structure to allow To build awareness, martinandosa.com will be to be bright and online-savvy. The challenge is how us to focus our efforts and resources on the brand’s future notifying potential customers by e-mail, advertising to deliver on a superior user experience. We think growth,” said a spokeswoman for the fi rm. on the fl at-screen televisions inside Martin + Osa we’ve put something out there that is quite compel- De la Faverie, who joined L’Oréal Group in 1998, stores, tapping the ae.com subscriber database to ling.” Martin + Osa targets 28- to 40-year-olds, with was most recently vice president of marketing at build its own, conducting online media advertising the sweet spot at age 34. Lancôme USA, where he oversaw the brand’s skin and a paid search campaign, seeking editorial cover- The Web site has a drag-and-drop application, care and fragrance businesses. Prior to that, he held age on fashion blogs and staging a sweepstakes for a which is a feature that enables shoppers to build and numerous positions within the company, including $1,000 shopping spree, according to Michael Dupuis, layer their own outfi ts on a mannequin using a select general manager of Lancôme in Australia and area senior director of marketing, AEO Inc. number of women’s tops, bottoms and accessories. manager for the Travel Retail Division of Luxury Fred Grover, executive vice president of e-com- The company is considering expanding the feature Products Group North America, overseeing the merce at AEO Inc., added that the entire Martin + to men’s wear. “This notion is to allow visitors to be Lancôme, Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren and Biotherm Osa collection is available on the new site. “As we in control,” said Grover. brands. He started his career within the Lancôme move into fall, we plan to add some extended sizes. There is also video technology, helping to illu- International Division in Paris. We do anticipate having some online-only sizing.” minate what “refi ned casual” is all about by show- “Stephane is a well-respected executive within the He said the Web site will be a “positive force” in ing models moving in the clothes, and a Seasonal L’Oréal Group whose leadership and global vision make building brand recognition and driving traffi c to the Essentials page highlighting key items. him an excellent choice for this role,” stated Chapoulaud. stores. Martinandosa.com can ship to 42 countries “The site is designed for exploration — but quick- “I am confi dent that along with his team, the Giorgio now, and by next month, will ship to more than 50. ly,” noted Grover. Armani Brand will continue its growth and success in the Free shipping and returns are being offered in the “Certainly, by no means do we feel we are launch- U.S. market.” U.S. and Canada, though that could change down the ing something that is perfect or fi nished,” added — Michelle Edgar road as volume grows. Dupuis. We’ve got to keep listening to our user base.”

A sketch of a Nicole Miller Nicole Miller Goes Deeper Into Swim With New Lines Collection swimsuit for By Whitney Beckett great bathing suits that have gotten great America’s showroom, at 1411 Broadway in resort 2009. press — the last one was on Martha Stewart’s New York. icole Miller is diving further into swim show — but the patternmaking alone is the Nicole by Nicole Miller is a less expensive ex- Nfor resort 2009. most intensive thing we’ve ever done. We re- clusive brand for J.C. Penney. Because Penney’s Having always dabbled in swim on its own, alized this business is so specialized that we lead time is longer than that of specialty stores, the New York-based ready-to-wear company is couldn’t do it right ourselves, and we needed the diffusion line won’t kick off for another year. making the leap to create two full swimwear a partner.” “With our prints, I’ve always felt there was lines under the labels Nicole Miller Collection Although the wholesale prices for the new a big opportunity for us to do swim,” added and Nicole by Nicole Miller. The fi rm signed lines and the door count have not been fi nal- Nicole Miller. “I have a strong opinion about a license with Christina America Inc., a divi- ized, Konheim said he expects that the prices how swimsuits should be cut — like my dresses sion of Swim Expert Alliance, best known for for the Nicole Miller Collection probably will — sexy and fl attering, like body camoufl age.” producing Gottex. be in sync with the $60 to $70 wholesale range The swim lines will feature prints from “We’ve been in the bathing suit business of the capsule line of suits Nicole Miller sells Miller’s studio collection, and will put pat- since way back in the Eighties, since we in its own stores, and that swim will likely terns not only on bikinis, but also one-pieces had Tyra Banks on the cover of the Sports be picked up by a quarter of the 1,200 doors and tankinis, the designer said. Illustrated Swimsuit issue — the problem that carry Nicole Miller dresses. He expects In the last year, Nicole Miller has added li- was we only made fi ve of that suit,” said Bud fi rst-year wholesale volume for the Nicole censes for lingerie, outerwear, fragrance and Konheim, president and chief executive offi - Miller Collection swimsuit line to be around legwear, and the designer said she still has cer of Nicole Miller. “Nicole has always made $3 million. The line will be shown at Christina eyes on children’s wear. 16 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 WWD.COM

FROM ER HOT SPOTS TO MEET AND EAT T T

E iami is brimming with original, well- round it out. L Mdesigned hotels and eateries. 2377 Collins Avenue; 305-604-1000; 8 0 According to the Greater Miami gansevoortsouth.com. April rates begin 0 2 3, Convention and Visitors Bureau, hotel at $595. APRIL MIAMI occupancy and tourism for 2007 totaled ● Shopaholics and fashion execs alike 72 percent and 12 million visitors, stay across the street from Bal Harbour respectively, up slightly from the previous Shops at The Regent Bal Harbour. Opened year. New properties should keep crowds in March, the 18-story hotel’s 124 rooms coming, even during hurricane season. are accessed by semiprivate or private Here are a few spots worth noting: elevators. Its curved glass facade plays up the oceanside locale, while the spa ● This is not your grandmother’s is Guerlain’s fi rst in North America. Fontainebleau. Unveiling its $1 billion Emphasizing seafood and local greens, expansion and renovation this July, 1 Bleu is the second Le Cordon Bleu Fontainebleau Hotel & Resort Miami Beach restaurant partnership in North America. offers 1,504 guest rooms, a revamped 10295 Collins Avenue; 305-866-2121; Trade shows and resorts like Gansevoort South draw lagoon pool with luxury cabanas and a regenthotels.com/balharbour. April rates throngs of trade show visitors to Miami each year. 40,000-square-foot spa. London’s Hakkasan start at $750. is among its 11 restaurants and nightclubs. ● Badrutt’s Place is the Brickell district’s Preservation purists can rest assured architect sexy spot with chic interiors to match fare Morris Lapidus’ circa 1954 “cheesehole” like tapas, caviar and octopus carpaccio. wall and staircase to nowhere remain. 1250 South Miami Avenue; Full Slate of Fashion, Fun 4441 Collins Avenue; 305-538-2000; 305-415-0070; badrutts-place.com. fontainebleau.com. Summer rates start at ● Popular for burger specials and By Rebecca Kleinman due to the high cost of living. Foreclosures $189. pomegranate glazed duck with lentils, — as of March, there were 24,000 pend- ● Gansevoort South’s 334 rooms are Brosia restaurant has a mosaic courtyard iami likes to mix business with plea- ing foreclosures in Miami-Dade County decorated with charcoal gray suede shaded by live oaks. Msure, and that makes for a packed cal- according to South Florida Foreclosure walls, hot pink accents and retro pinup 163 Northeast 39th Street; endar of fashion events. Group — and job losses, particularly in photographs. The adults-only playground 305-572-1400; brosiamiami.com. According to organizers, the city’s great housing sectors, have many retailers pre- has a 26,000-square-foot pool deck, shark ● Daringly dine beneath 2,000 samurai weather and party atmosphere hook fash- paring for a lean 2008. tank and David Barton gym and spa. A Big swords is Kobe Club, where beef is the star. ion week and trade show attendees, from “There are a few insulated pockets like Drop boutique, Philippe restaurant and 404 Washington Avenue; front-row celebrities to Midwest retailers South Beach or Bal Harbour Shops, but Louis nightclub from The Opium Group 305-673-5370; chinagrillmgt.com. eager to hit the beach after a morning writ- we’re going to see more stores of all vari- ing orders. eties close here, and even foreign buyers The Coast trade show, which hosted its can’t replace U.S. sales for long,” said Jack triannual Miami event March 10 to 11 at McCabe, founder of McCabe Research & SHORT AND SWEET The Savoy Hotel, this year introduced a Consulting, a real estate tracking fi rm in fashion show with Laundry, Rebecca Taylor Deerfi eld Beach. “Sales tax collection for For Sweetface’s fall fashion show at The Setai in Miami Beach, and Castle Starr, among others, according 2007 in the entire state of Florida was $2 attendees fl aunted high heels, high hemlines and hot color. to Karen Bennett, Coast president. billion less than expected.” “Our attendees come for the weather But judging by the development of and vacation aspect, and they love the luxury, mixed-use properties and big-box hotel setting,” Bennett said. “They have centers, with independent boutiques and said they don’t want the show moving to a nationals’ multiple stores in the same convention center.” neighborhood, conditions aren’t all gloom Capped at 155 exhibitors, the roster and doom. “Miami actually didn’t build included regulars like Twelfth Street by enough retail space for when all the resi- Cynthia Vincent, Max Studio and Custo dential units are up and occupied. It’s Barcelona, with 25 percent new vendors traditionally been under retailed,” said like Sea, Odd Molly and Charlotte Sparre Michael Comras, principal of Miami Beach- Copenhagen. The next show is July 20 to 21. based Comras Co., which specializes in re- March also brought Funkshion: Fashion tail leasing and development. Week Miami Beach, a biannual event wrap- For its fifth annual Fresh Faces in ping up its fi fth year and 10th season with Fashion, Gen Art Miami culls designers of 25 designers including fall 2008 collection women’s and men’s apparel, women’s ac- premieres from Sweetface, Heatherette cessories and swimwear. New York-based and William Rast. lines Bensoni and Grace Sun join seven re- “Financially, it makes more sense for gional designers — Megan Huntz, Septimo, these lines to show here because it’s cheap- Nazly Villamizar, Shumaq, Malcolm Fontier, er to fl y in buyers and press than pay for a Fabiana Ferreira and August Alexander slot during New York’s fashion week,” said (men’s wear) — for a runway show and co-founder Sale Stojanovic. exhibition at Miami Beach’s Gansevoort Several events are planned for this South hotel April 12. month. Miami Fashion Week celebrates its The Swimwear Association of Florida’s 10th anniversary April 9 to 13, with nightly SwimShow 2009, July 19 to 22, at Miami runway shows at Soho Studios, and instruc- Beach Convention Center coincides with tional seminars held daily, in which legal Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Swim at The and business experts offer designers in- Raleigh hotel July 18 to 21. SwimShow exec- formation about establishing and conduct- utive director Judy Stein reports applicants MIAMI VITAL STATISTICS ing business. Founder Beth Sobol reports grew from 70 to 250 vendors from 2007, due All fi gures refer to Miami-Dade County unless otherwise indicated. Latin American designers make up half to the previous show’s 25th anniversary buzz POPULATION: 2.4 million (2006) of 2008’s 60 participants. She works with and a growing swim market. Stein expects CITY OF MIAMI POPULATION: 404,000 (2006) government-sponsored trade commissions 350 exhibitors showing 2,000 lines. CITY OF MIAMI BEACH POPULATION: 87,000 (2006) in countries across Europe, Asia and the Fern Mallis, vice president of IMG DEMOGRAPHICS: 61.3 percent Hispanic; 20.2 percent African-American; 18.3 Middle East, as well. Fashion, agrees her company’s swim week percent non-Hispanic white; 1.5 percent Asian; balance Native Hawaiian, Pacifi c This year, collections hail from Australia belongs here. “The city ultimately speaks Islander or other (2006)* and United Arab Emirates for the fi rst time. sun and beach,” she said. CIVILIAN LABOR FORCE: 1.2 million (January 2008) Material World Miami Beach and This year, the biannual Trafik trade NUMBER OF RETAIL WORKERS: 126,900 (January 2008) Technology Solutions also marks its show, which grows 25 percent each year NUMBER OF FASHION INDUSTRY EMPLOYEES (INCLUDING FASHION RETAIL): 10th anniversary at the Miami Beach in attendance according to show director 19,329 (2008) Convention Center April 8 to 10. President James Costa, will move from August to late MEDIAN HOUSEHOLD INCOME: $45,328 (2007) Tim Von Gal said attendance, primarily September. Offi cial dates haven’t been set. MEDIAN HOME PRICE: $336,800 (January 2008) from the Americas, has grown 50 percent “It just didn’t make sense to be the NUMBER OF CONDOS FOR SALE: 25,000 (February 2008) since its inception, and the glitzy locale has same time as other domestic shows, so we NUMBER OF CONDOS UNDER CONSTRUCTION: 25,000 (to be completed between a lot to do with it. decided to be last,” he said, also planning now and 2009) “Miami is not only an international to push the traditional February date to Largest public companies, by revenues: Lennar Corp., Carnival Corp., World Fuel trading hub and the U.S. gateway to Latin March in 2009. Service Corp., Ryder System, Royal Caribbean Cruises (2006) America, but it has become a world-class Inspired by Art Basel Miami Beach, FASHION COMPANIES BASED HERE: Perry Ellis International, TKO, Red Carter, We destination for dining, nightlife and fashion September’s theme is Pop Art with primary Love Colors, Eberjey, On Gossamer, Cosabella, Edward Beiner, Rose Taft, Sweet Pea trendspotting,” said Von Gal. colors, live installations and collaborations by Stacy Frati, Tricia Fix, among others Since the retail and fi nancial outlook in between artists and fashion companies. FASHION COMPANIES WITH HEADQUARTERS FOR THEIR LATIN-AMERICAN Miami is challenging, some stores do depend Sixty percent of its approximately 325 ex- OPERATIONS HERE: Ferragamo, Hugo Boss, Swarovski, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis on tourists from areas such as Canada and hibitors are women’s wear collections, with Vuitton, Richman Group Europe to make up lost domestic dollars. most buyers from the Southeast. In March, the Census Bureau found “But from the South, Chicago or *Demographics may exceed 100 percent since some people check more than one box. Miami-Dade County’s population grew less California, everyone loves that you can just SOURCES: U.S. CENSUS BUREAU; THE BEACON COUNCIL, MIAMI-DADE COUNTY’S OFFICIAL ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT PARTNERSHIP; than 1 percent, and more South Florida walk across the street to the show or the MCCABE RESEARCH & CONSULTING, A REAL ESTATE TRACKING FIRM IN DEERFIELD BEACH, FLA.

residents left than arrived in 2006 to 2007 beach. It’s so relaxed,” said Costa. SADLER CLARK ROBERT PHOTOS BY

18 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 WWD.COM Antitrade Din Grows Galeries Lafayette Net Up By Kristi Ellis to accept” trade deals like one pending PARIS — Boosted by retail expan- Pion-Royal Quartz business, also with South Korea because they are “bad for sion and market share gains in wom- was cited as a driving force be- WASHINGTON — Democratic presidential American workers.” en’s wear, French retailer Groupe hind the increase in sales. Galeries candidates Sens. Barack Obama (D., Ill.) and “What I oppose — and what I have al- Galeries Lafayette on Wednesday Lafayette department stores, which Hillary Rodham Clinton (D., N.Y.) have broad- ways opposed — are trade deals that put said profits rose 22 percent last year count a total of 62 stores including ened their opposition to free trade in speech- the interests of multinational corporations and revealed plans to launch its first its sprawling Boulevard Haussmann es before the AFL-CIO in Pennsylvania. ahead of the interests of American workers, online flagship. fl agship, also increased their oper- Obama and Clinton reached beyond like NAFTA and CAFTA [Central America Net profi ts for the group — which ating margin by 7.9 percent versus their calls for reforming the 14-year-old Free Trade Agreement] and permanent nor- includes the Galeries Lafayette, 7.2 percent a year earlier. North American Free Trade Agreement as mal trade relations with China.” BHV, Monoprix and Laser business- The department store said it they campaign for the Pennsylvania prima- Obama said his opposition to a pending es — reached 256 million euros, or would make its e-commerce debut ry on April 22. deal with Colombia is based on the assassi- $350.9 million at average exchange, April 21 with a pilot online store, Clinton, who has urged a “time-out” on nations of trade unionists that he said will in the year ended Dec. 31 from 210 which will sell more than 3,000 all new trade agreements and a review of “make a mockery of the very labor protec- million euros, or $287.9 million, the articles, including fashion and ac- existing pacts, told union members Tuesday tions that we have insisted be included in previous 12 months. As reported, cessories. The site offi cially will that she would “get tough on China.” these kinds of agreements.” sales rose 6.5 percent to 4.96 billion launch in September, boasting a “They manipulate their currency, they Labor offi cials have been encouraged euros, or $6.8 billion. Operating mar- three-hour delivery service within give illegal subsidies, they abuse work- by the deeper debate on trade between the gins increased 8.7 percent. Paris and a 24-hour delivery time ers’ rights and what do we get in return?” Democratic candidates, but they remain The group’s new watch divi- within Europe. Clinton asked rhetorically. “Tainted fi sh, highly critical of the pro-free trade stance sion, which includes the Louis — Emilie Marsh lead-laced toys and poisoned pet food and of Arizona Sen. John McCain, the presump- polluted pharmaceuticals. That is a bad deal tive Republican nominee. for America. When I’m president, China will “I think [Clinton and Obama] both have be a trade partner, not a trade master.” staked out pretty strong positions on a va- Clinton did not provide details of how she riety of trade issues, particularly on the Hermès Cuts Event would change the U.S. trading relationship free trade agreements and on China,” said with China. However, she has supported leg- Thea Lee, policy director at the AFL-CIO. PARIS — Hermès For the past 26 years, islation that would use trade remedy laws to “Because they have been so concrete and International is hanging Hermès invited as many impose higher duties on imported Chinese detailed, I do think this will have more up its hat on one of its as 12,000 guests to the products if that country doesn’t reform weight [if one of them wins the White most emblematic events: June event, each year its currency policy, which critics say gives House] than in the past when glancing ref- the Prix de Diane. boasting a different eth- Chinese fi rms unfair price advantages. erences were made to trade issues and the The annual horse-rac- nic theme and corre- Clinton also unveiled a job creation plan candidates weren’t pinned down.” ing event, in partnership sponding cuisine, crafts on Wednesday that would eliminate tax in- Lee asserted that McCain’s trade posi- with France Galop, was a and entertainment. centives for companies that outsource jobs tion will not serve him well in battleground chance for France’s upper In a statement, the and provide $7 billion a year in new tax states, such as Pennsylvania, which have crust to don fantasy head- company said it would benefi ts and investments to help companies lost hundreds of thousands of jobs, partly wear and picnic on the begin a new equestrian create higher paying jobs in the U.S. because of international trade. green lawns sandwich- event in Deauville in The chic set Obama, who has also supported the “I think it’s a huge liability for McCain,” ing the racetrack and the August, but gave no fur- always turned same China legislation, told the AFL-CIO Lee said. “His position rings very hollow for picturesque chateau at ther details. out for the members Wednesday that he would “refuse our members and…it will be a hard sell.” Chantilly, France. — Miles Socha Prix de Diane.

ment for Day’s role as executive vice president of retail. Lululemon Earnings Soar in Qtr. Despite the growth, not all was good news: The company said it would shut- ter its operations in Japan, where it has By Whitney Beckett percent, or 24 percent on a constant dol- through its initial public offering in four stores that have been “taking up lar basis. July, will serve as an adviser until the a disproportionate amount of manage- conomic woes apparently don’t apply “The key to our success is not one end of the company’s 2008 fi scal year. ment time and attention,” according Eto the holistic yoga world of Canadian thing — it’s a combination of innovative Meers, 64, and his wife plan to go into to Meers. The only other area outside retailer Lululemon Athletica Inc. Fourth- product, great store locations, a strong business together, though he declined to North America where Lululemon has quarter earnings multiplied by more than philosophy and the opportunity to be a give details. stores is Australia. 16 times on revenues that doubled. part of a macro trend for healthy living Day spent 20 years at Starbucks, most Lululemon is focusing on North The company also designated Christine that is being led by women, while most recently as president of its Asia Pacifi c America, where it plans to open 35 Day, who joined Lululemon in January as of our competition is based around Group, and she compared the opportu- stores this year. It also plans to launch executive vice president of retail opera- male team athletes,” Meers told WWD. nities of the yoga company with that of an e-commerce operation. tions, to take over as chief executive offi - “I am bullish about our opportunity to the coffee behemoth. For the company’s fi rst fi scal year cer, president and chief operating offi cer continue to grow in this marketplace; “Lululemon reminds me very much as a public company, earnings tripled when Robert Meers retires on June 30. we have no reason to believe we should of the early days at Starbucks,” Day said to $30.8 million, or 45 cents per diluted For the three months ended Feb. 3, slow down. The economic environment on a conference call Wednesday morn- share, from $7.7 million, or 11 cents, last the Canadian fi rm saw its earnings in- has helped us in terms of getting ‘A’ lo- ing. “I am as excited about the opportu- year. Annual sales increased 85 percent crease to $14.6 million, or 21 cents per cations in stores and gives us leases we nity of this organization as I was when I to $274.7 million from $148.9 million. diluted share, from $887,000, or 1 cent, can live with for 10 years. Fortunately, joined Starbucks 20 years ago.” For fi scal 2008, the company said it in the fourth quarter last year. we have an incredibly strong balance Meers said to expect key upcoming expects 70 to 72 cents of diluted earn- Sales for the quarter more than dou- sheet to be able to seize opportunities.” executive appointments at Lululemon ings per share. bled to $105.1 million from $52.2 million, Meers, who joined Lululemon in in distribution, logistics, planning and Lululemon’s stock closed down 2.44 driven by store growth and comps of 41 December 2005 and led the company merchandising, as well as a replace- percent to $30.80 on Wednesday.

with markers on her bag, chose the ASPCA, Jennifer Creel and Amanda Ross rifl ed through Fashion Scoops and Marchesa co-founder Keren Craig and racks of dresses from the fall collection co-founder and designer Georgina Chapman before taking their seats for a presentation. CARB COUNTING: Is bread back in fashion? are giving their proceeds to the Robin Hood “It’s sort of like having a show all over again,” Who knows. But baguettes are back at Foundation. “Our theme was simply modern Som said. Fendi. Scarlett Johansson, Kim Cattrall, Sally and chic,” said Chapman. “We layered black- The designer next will work on putting Hershberger, Marchesa, Chris March and and-white hand-embroidered feathers softly together his resort collection, which is sure the MisShapes all customized baguettes on top of each other to create something to please executives at Saks, which put that will retail each for $2,500 on eLuxury. graphic yet feminine.” looks from the fall collection into fi ve of its com starting windows last week. April 17 on LUXURY RIDE: It seems that the Birkin bag “This is a very big a fi rst come, is no longer the barometer of luxury. Now deal,” said Ron Frasch, fi rst served luxury equates with having an exotic car’s Saks’ president and Marchesa’s basis. All the interior furnished by Hermès. Wednesday The Bugatti Veyron Fbg par Hermès. chief merchant of design for Fendi. proceeds from marked the U.S. debut of the Bugatti Veyron Hermès leather and the Fbg par Hermès refers the trunk show. “We the bags go to Fbg par Hermès. The 1.5 million euro, or to the French house’s Faubourg Saint-Honoré loved what Peter the charities $2.4 million at current exchange, car was address. It is the fi rst time the two companies shared with us on the selected by on display at Hermès’ Broad Street store at have collaborated. runway. I thought it each designer. Wednesday evening’s cocktail party. The car recognized the roots Hershberger, delivers 1,001 horsepower, has a 16-cylinder SOM SPOTLIGHT: On Wednesday, Peter Som of the Bill Blass that I who sketched engine, is capable of reaching about 250 hit Saks Fifth Avenue for his fi rst personal know. Having a strong the phrase miles per hour and goes from 0 to 60 mph appearance and trunk show at the store on Bill Blass is so perfect JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY “Love is in 2.5 seconds. It’s the fastest production behalf of Bill Blass, where he designs the because we have the Peter Som at Saks the drug,” car ever produced. The cockpit is made of women’s wear. The likes of Jamee Gregory, customer for it at Saks.” Fifth Avenue. WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 19 WWD.COM

ensure the remaining amounts in the trust can be used for her ongoing care,” Daphne Moore, corporate communications director, told WWD. The company also said it is reviewing the guidelines for the trust that pays medical expenses for its employees “to MEMO PAD allow for discretion for individual cases.” Olbermann will interview Jim Shank, Debbie’s husband (who, in fact, divorced Debbie last year so she could receive higher Medicaid CHANGE OF HEART: Looks like $470,000 wasn’t worth a week of bad publicity for Wal- payments) on “Countdown” tonight. — Stephanie D. Smith Mart Stores Inc. The retailer was criticized on MSNBC’s “Countdown With Keith Olbermann,” CNN and other major news outlets for suing Debbie Shank, a former Wal- Back in the Pink: Tyler Brûlé just can’t seem to get enough of The Financial Times. Mart employee left severely disabled in a car accident, for $470,000, the amount the The consultant, writer and editor in chief of Monocle is rejoining the pink paper as a retailer paid out for her medical care as a part of her health benefi ts. Shank in 2001 columnist for FT Weekend. Brûlé had been a columnist there from 2003 to 2006 before was hit by a semitruck near her home, and after legal fees received $417,000 in a moving to its competitor, The New York Times-owned International Herald Tribune, settlement from the trucking company, which was placed in a trust for her care. The where he wrote a weekly column for the past year on “urbanism and global navigation.” company sued Shank for the $470,000 in medical fees and won, but the courts ruled He now will revive his old column, “Fast Lane,” to write about travel, trends and high- that Wal-Mart was only allowed to pursue the remaining $277,000 left in the trust. As end consumer goods. He declined to comment on returning to the FT, but the paper’s news broke of Shank’s situation, Wal-Mart seemed determined to pursue the remaining readers will no doubt once again hear all about hard-to-fi nd Japanese luggage, Swiss cash from her. underwear, the travails of the modern airport and Swedish islands. — Amy Wicks But Tuesday afternoon, and after Keith Olbermann honored Wal-Mart on his “Worst Person in the World” List for the last four days running, the retailer reconsidered. CNN NEW HIRE: Marie Claire looked to younger corporate sibling Cosmogirl for a new reported on Tuesday that the Shanks received a letter from Wal-Mart saying it would no advertising director to replace recently promoted Tami Eagle Bowling. Stacey Andersen, longer seek repayment. “Occasionally others help us step back and look at a situation in who was most recently national fashion director/West Coast sales director at Cosmogirl, a different way. This is one of those times….Wal-Mart will not seek any reimbursement will step into Bowling’s old post. Bowling was promoted to associate publisher at Marie for the money already spent on Ms. Shank’s care, and we will work with the family to Claire in March. — S.D.S. Slowing Sales Drag Down Belk elk Inc.’s bottom line re- Btreated more than 20 per- cent in the fourth quarter as sales saw a double-digit dip. For the three months ended Feb. 2, the Charlotte, N.C.-based department store group report- ed net income of $85.6 million, 24.2 percent less than the year- ago level of $113 million. Sales contracted 12.3 percent to $1.23 billion from $1.41 billion in the fi nal period of fi scal 2007.

Tim Belk

“Consumer spending slowed signifi cantly as customers faced economic conditions, including higher unemployment, rising energy costs and deterioration of the housing and credit markets,” said Tim Belk, chairman and chief executive offi cer. “We re- sponded to the reduced demand in the second half of the year by following a disciplined approach to inventory management, which allowed us to enter this year in an improved position.” Belk reported results for the full year. Fourth-quarter fi gures were derived by subtracting those provided for the fi rst nine months of the fi scal year. Comparable- store sales results weren’t avail- able for the quarter. For the full year, net income dropped 47.4 percent, to $95.7 million, and sales rose 3.8 per- cent to $3.82 billion. Comps fell 1.1 percent. Belk, the largest privately held U.S. department store, re- leases fi nancial results because of public debt. It operates 307 stores in 16 states and plans to open eight stores during the cur- rent fi scal year. Full integration of the Parisian stores acquired from Saks Inc. is expected dur- ing the fourth quarter. — Arnold J. Karr 20 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 WWD.COM

The fashion-obsessed don’t only live in New York, Tokyo, London or TheWWDList Paris these days. As part of its recent Global Designer Brand Survey, The Nielsen Company asked 25,000 consumers in 48 countries if they bought designer brands when they shop. (Neither the term “designer” nor price points were specifi ed to respondents.) While some of the top countries may surprise, it turns out all 10 boast well-known shopping streets and plenty of designer boutiques — including ones for local brands. And most of the countries also hold their own fashion weeks. A Fashion World word to designers who are looking to expand globally — if you haven’t The top 10 countries ranked by the percentage of residents surveyed entered these regions already, it might not be a bad idea. — Cecily Hall who say they buy designer brands. GREECE Amount of country’s respondents who said they buy designer brands: 46 percent This Mediterranean country’s residents have loved fashion since before the Parthenon was built. “Classical Greek fashion back then — and to this day — has tended to mark social distinction,” noted Todd Davis, a Ph.D. candidate in Greek History at Columbia University. “So you could expect greater attention to detail and accessories by upper-class women.” Grecian draping has inspired designers worldwide, with Laura Poretzky for 1 Abaeté, Esteban Cortazar for Emanuel Ungaro and Anna Molinari for Blumarine recently featuring the theme in their collections. Greek designer Sophia Kokosalaki, who showed her fall collection in Paris, often incorporates the theme into her pieces. In Athens, shops near Kolonaki Square house both international and Greek designers and include local specialty stores such as Sofos, Ritsi and Jade. HONG KONG 38 percent From Lane Crawford’s fl agship in Central to the luxury watch stores on Nathan Road in Kowloon, shopping is a major pastime in Hong Kong. “In Asia, I believe possession of luxury brands has evolved from the occasional indulgence to daily ritual,” Yvonne Lum, Nielsen’s Hong Kong-based director of retailing research, said. “Owning luxury-branded goods is no longer just to showcase one’s wealth, it is also to showcase one’s class.” 2 Some Hong Kong-based fashion brands include Baleno, Esprit Holdings, Giordano and Shanghai Tang. Coach is putting the fi nishing touches on a major fl agship here, set to be the company’s second largest in Asia. The 9,500-square-foot store will span two fl oors and will be the eighth Coach shop in Hong Kong. The store itself sits to the west of retailers such as H&M, Nike and Esprit. INDIA 35 percent WWD reported last week that Stella McCartney will open six stores in India over the next two years as a result of a new distribution deal with TSG International Marketing Pvt. Ltd. Other entrants into the region: Italian fashion house Etro opened a location last year, while Hermès and Fendi both plan to open a store in Delhi this year. Rakshit Partha, managing director of Nielsen India, said, “The economic boom in India is churning out 3 a large number of millionaires, who are looking at designer brands to advertise their newly found status. Indian designer shoppers prefer well- known brands such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci, which have an international high-profi le image — and also because both these brands have opened up large stores in India in the past few years, making their products more visible and accessible to buyers.”

HUNGARY 32 percent “Hungarians are ambitious, they are design- and brand-oriented, even if it’s sometimes above their budget,” Eva Nevihostenyi, marketing manager of Nielsen Hungary, said. “They think designer brands represent prestige, better image.” Budapest boasts a number of shopping streets for those interested in fashion. Malls abound here, like the West End City Center Budapest, which features Lacoste, Marks & Spencer, Gant 4 and Diesel. The Mammut Shopping Center carries Mango, Esprit and Benetton. “Diesel and Calvin Klein are two brands that are well known in Hungary, especially Diesel,” Nevihostenyi added.

UNITED ARAB EMIRATES 31 percent Designers and retailers are betting big in cities — or emirates, in this case — like Abu Dhabi (currently touted as the richest city in the world) and Dubai. For example, WWD reported last month that Bloomingdale’s appears ready to take its expansion overseas — the retailer’s fi rst stop could be 5 the Dubai Mall, according to real estate sources. The mall is under construction for a late 2008 or early 2009 opening, and is planned to be the largest in the world: It will encompass about 10 million gross square feet, including 3.8 million for retail, and the world’s tallest building — the Burj Dubai, with more than 200 fl oors and an Armani Hotel at its base. Akash Pal, head of consumer research for Nielsen UAE, told WWD, “People usually come here to live the high-end, luxurious lifestyle. Therefore, consumers here are very image-conscious, and awareness about designer brands is high.” POLAND 27 percent * The country, located on the Baltic Sea, boasts its very own fashion week in Poznan, Poland’s fi fth-largest city, located to the west of Warsaw. Meanwhile, in Warsaw is Arkadia, a mall that houses 180 shops such as Tommy Hilfi ger and Pierre Cardin, 20 restaurants, a 15-screen cinema and 4,000 parking spaces. In Krakow, one of the oldest cities in Poland, Old Town remains a vibrant hub with numerous landmarks, museums, art 6 galleries, college universities, music venues, theaters and restaurants. The Galeria Krakowska, a shopping center with 270 stores, is located here G/CORBIS; POLAND BY KAY NIETFELD/LANDOV; NIETFELD/LANDOV; KAY G/CORBIS; POLAND BY and houses everything from Versace and MaxMara to H&M and Zara. WOLFGANG DEUTER/CORBIS ; IRELAND BY

SOUTH AFRICA 27 percent * Designer Paul Smith has fi nally come to South Africa: A franchised store opened its doors in October in a 900-square-foot, two-story Cape Dutch- style house in the fashionable Johannesburg suburb of Parkhurst. “Paul Smith is the latest high-end fashion label to set up shop in South Africa,” 7 WWD stated. “In recent months, labels such as Missoni, Chloé, Miu Miu, Marni, Stella McCartney, Prada Sport, Valentino Red and Kate Spade have become available in exclusive multibrand boutiques in Johannesburg.” Also in October, Cartier opened its fi rst South African boutique in the Sandton City Mall, which houses Miss Sixty, Polo Ralph Lauren and Lacoste. A second Cartier store in Cape Town is in the planning stages.

PHILIPPINES 26 percent “The international luxury community is taking notice of the Philippines,” WWD reported in February. “In fact, retail — including the luxury and high-end variety — is alive and well in the Philippines, with its booming economy.” Last year, the gross domestic product grew by 7.3 percent. 8 Greenbelt 5, the latest addition to the development of the Greenbelt Mall, based in Manila, opened in October. Tenants include Balenciaga, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Paul Smith, Banana Republic, Rafe and Celestina. In December, London-based market-intelligence fi rm Euromonitor ranked the Philippines ninth among Asia-Pacifi c region countries in terms of projected 2007 clothing and footwear retail sales, with $1.5 billion.

NETHERLANDS 23 percent Looks as though cheese and wooden clogs aren’t the only two items Netherlands residents own. Amsterdam, the Netherlands’ capital, is the largest city and features several shopping areas. Pieter Cornelisz (P.C.) Hooftstraat, considered to be the Fifth Avenue of Amsterdam, is home to designer brands such as Chanel, Gucci, Hermès and Louis Vuitton. And Kalverstraat, a pedestrian-only street, houses a variety of chain clothing 9 stores such as H&M, Mexx and Zara. Meanwhile, other retail players are making their way into the region. Levi Strauss & Co. recently opened a location here, while handbags and accessories brand Tumi will open a store here this year. Mikael Schiller, president of Stockholm-based Acne Jeans, told WWD last month that it has plans to enter the region, as well. IRELAND 22 percent A study conducted last year on the world’s most expensive retail locations by Cushman & Wakefi eld said retail rents on Dublin’s Grafton Street averaged $669 a square foot — the sixth highest in the world. Grafton Street houses well-known department stores such as Marks & Spencer and 10 Brown Thomas. Henry Street also features department stores such as Arnotts, along with a variety of popular clothing and footwear stores. The Jervis Shopping Centre is also here, and stores such as Debenhams, Marks & Spencer and Bershka can be found. Designer Daryl Kerrigan, who showed her two fall 2008 collections (Daryl K and Kerrigan) in New York, also hails from Dublin. GREECE PHOTO BY RICHARD T. NOWITZ/CORBIS; HONG KONG BY YM/CORBIS; NETHERLANDS BY BENELUX/CORBIS; PHILIPPINES BY LAWRENCE MANNIN LAWRENCE PHILIPPINES BY BENELUX/CORBIS; YM/CORBIS; NETHERLANDS BY BY NOWITZ/CORBIS; HONG KONG RICHARD T. GREECE PHOTO BY SOUTH AFRICA BY NIK WHEELER/CORBIS; UAE BY AZIZ SHAH/APPHOTO; HUNGARY BY BELA SZANDELSZKY/APPHOTO; INDIA BY JAYANTA SHAW/LANDOV JAYANTA INDIA BY BELA SZANDELSZKY/APPHOTO; AZIZ SHAH/APPHOTO; HUNGARY BY BY NIK WHEELER/CORBIS; UAE SOUTH AFRICA BY SOURCE: THE NIELSEN COMPANY’S GLOBAL DESIGNER BRAND SURVEY; 25,000 RESPONDENTS WERE SURVEYED ONLINE BY NIELSEN; HONG KONG IS A SPECIAL ADMINISTRATIVE REGION IN CHINA; *INDICATES A TIE PRIME COMMERCIAL SPACES

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Target top industry decision-makers in WWD’s New Commercial Real Estate Section Align your properties with the most authoritative voice in the industry!

To place an ad in Prime Commercial Spaces, call Theresa Mazza, Account Manager at 212.630.4921 or [email protected] 22 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 ResourceDirectory To be included among the top places to work, call 1.800.423-3314 or email [email protected]

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WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise. COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE

PATTERNS, SAMPLES, DESIGNER, ASSOCIATE PRODUCTIONS DESIGNER & ASST. DESIGNER All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Huge growth opportunity. Established Showrooms & Lofts Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Technical Designer multidivisional dress mfr. looking for BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS a designer, associate designer and Great ’New’ Office Space Avail PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Technical designer with 2-3 yrs assistant designer who specialize in ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Women’s Sr. Account Executive/Sales Manager evening dresses and private label PRODUCTIONS experience in dresses & separates. developments. Must have min. 4-6 Full service shop to the trade. Candidate must be detail-oriented, years experience. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Authentic American lifestyle brand is seeking experienced Fax resume to HR: 212-898-1211 candidates to join our New York showroom team. Candi- highly motivated with knowledge dates should be enthusiastic, highly motivated and have of Gerber Web PDM, garment PATTERNMAKER PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD strong communication skills. Must have a minimum of 5 yrs construction, sample measuring Established Women’s Wear Co. special- Broadway Garment Center High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- experience in the better sportswear industry and established izing in dress, suit, and evening wear, sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 and evaluation. is looking for a patternmaker with NICE OFFICE + SHOWROOM contacts in the better specialty/department store arena. strong knowledge & min. 5-7 years AVAILABLE TO SHARE Production Patternmaker experience. Please Call Joan @ 917-907-1667 www.gant.com Experienced Prod. Patternmaker Fax Resume to HR: 212-898-1211 Please send resume in confidence and salary history needed to work in busy NYC pattern dept. Must have bias Designer/Merchandiser as a Word attachment to: [email protected] Leading Lingerie Importer & Distribu- DRESS experience in variety of tor seeks individual with CAD capabil- Internet Catalog Business ities. Strong illustrator & Photoshop fabrics including silk. Salary is skills required. Ideal candidate must Internationally recognized co. selling Cad Artist/Assistant commensurate with experience. have at least 1 yr exp of lingerie back- high quality sportswear through 19 Design Assistant ground. Must have ability to work Designer Needed Please email resume to: yr. old established catalog & Internet. Girls Tweed Market with Fashion Bridge Co skees highly motivated & w/team under tight deadlines. Excel- Niche business with few competitors, sense for Jr. Flare for the Mass market creative indiv. Computer skills and the [email protected] lent benefits & compensation package. Investment/Partnership Wanted must have great taste and keen eye for ability to work in a fast paced environ- Please send resumes to: Sr. Designer/Mrcndsr/Mfr, w/Hong delivers high ($290) average order. color and trends, must be able to give ment. Fax resume to: 201-964-5816 [email protected] Kong production, sales rep, coterie print and graphic directions. Please participation. Built several start-up Contact Fred Anderson 973-763- 9570 or [email protected] send resume to [email protected] or co/brands in past 7 years, looking for fax to 212 736 0170 Attn: Lina Designer/Product Developer investor/strategic partner with capital DC based Smathers and Branson to build contemp new co. email to: seeks designer and product developer. [email protected] After creating a successful men’s line of accessories, we are looking to expand DESIGN ASSISTANT our offerings and introduce a lady’s CAD DESIGNER Major midtown Denim co seeks an org’d line. We offer competitive salaries, and Women’s Apparel Co. in NY seeks Asst. Must know Illustrator. Excellent benefits. Huge growth opportunity! 2 exp’d and creative CAD designer. Must pay & benefits. Please email resumes: years experience minimum. Pls email be able to create digital flats w/garment [email protected] resumes: [email protected] details & create digital pattern repeats. Designer/Dance Wear Proficient in illustrator and photoshop. Danskin®/Triumph Apparel Corp, world renowned dance resource, has exciting CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING Must be able to work in a fast paced DESIGNER environment. opportunity for a dynamic Dance Wear U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 Designer to design comprehensive SaraMax Apparel Group, a leading www.sanodesignservices.com Fax resumes to: 212-704 2003 or E-mail Intimate Apparel Company, is looking to: [email protected] collections from innovative fashion to core basics. Ideal candidate is a proactive for a strong designer with a junior Designer self starter & detail oriented team market background. Candidate must Design/Pattern/Sample player w/at least 7 yrs of dance wear exp be a driven, creative designer that also Production. Sportswear, Suits, Dress, ADMIN ASSISTANT CUSTOMER SERVICE BOY’S HEAD DESIGNER designing Women’s, Teens & Girls, has brand and graphics exp to design a Couture. Trade to China. Call Task oriented, motivated assistant Successful designer company seeks Branded apparel company looking for strong color sense; knowledge of knitted full line of Junior Intimates. Candidate 212.947.2861 or 917.622.2728 needed for President of major apparel customer service pro with 4-7 years head designer. Ability to design full fabrics; in depth garment fit and should also have knowledge of the jun- co. Must have excellent computer and experience in shipping, billing, EDI. collection including outerwear and construction expertise. Proficiency in iors market and have exp with dept communication skills. Previous apparel Excellent communication and mana- swimwear with understanding of kid’s Illustrator and Photoshop a must. stores, and off price retailers. Profi- Patterns/Samples/Production industry experience necessary, sales gerial skills needed. Great opportunity req’s. Knowledge of washing and wash Competitive comp & benefits package. ciency in Illustrator and Photoshop a Full Service, Fine, Fast Work. and/or production exp. a plus. Exciting in a Midtown location. Please reply to effects a plus. Overseas travel required. Please, send resumes w/salary history must. Fax all resumes to (212) 842 4050 Any Style opportunity for the right candidate. [email protected] & include Great opportunity for right candidate. to: [email protected] or Fax Attn: Vanessa Muskopf or email to: Call Casey: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 Please fax resume to: 212-643-0593 salary history. Please fax resume to: 212-643-0593 to: 212-930-9103. EOE/M/F/V [email protected] EOE WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 23 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

DESIGNER SENIOR...... $100K SALES REPS Branded Intimates & Sleepwear A young contemporary, eco-friendly ladies STORE MANAGER Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 jeans company looking for energetic Luxury Italian women’s boutique [email protected] and experienced sales reps to develop seeks seasoned leader to develop www.srisearch.com new accounts in boutiques, specialty growth in sales and clientele. Must be Seeks Sales Associate for NY and department stores. Pls email: driven, with excellent communication Corporate Showroom. Exp. [email protected] and networking skills. Good benefits required in Premium Denim and competitive salary! Only those select- EDI/CUSTOMER SERVICE ed for further consideration will be con- Italian luxury brand seeks organized, markets for Specialty Store tacted. Forward resume to: detail oriented, individual with the The Hot Sox Company of NYC, a division of Renfro Corp. and the following. Excellent Employ- [email protected] ability to multi-task. Responsibilities Licensee of Polo/Ralph Lauren and Levi’s hosiery, is seeking ment Opportunity and Benefits. incl: EDI, Monitor, Track and Release qualified candidates for several opportunities: Wholesale Customer Orders, Shipping and Billing. Excel and computer skills EXECUTIVE ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT Fax Resume to (213) 749-3535, are a must. Benefits package. E-mail: This individual will assist the President and Chief Operating Officer of the Attn: HR [email protected]/Fax 212 399-2172 company with the coordination of business plans from its midtown New [email protected] York City location.This individual would be responsible for the daily opera- tions of a fifty person office environment which would include: SALES ACCOUNT FASHION ASST •Assist the president and COO with various duties associated with MANAGER(S) Luxury Hand Embroidery House growing and servicing the business. Ladies Mid to High-end brand seeks Roberta Freymann, an exciting high seeks an organized & detail oriented sales account Managers for: individual for assitance on all aspects of •Coordination of the ADP payroll process, which includes end retailer and wholesaler, seeks •Swimwear/Resort energetic, results driven individuals embroidery development & production. entering salary changes. •Fashion Bags & Jewelery E-mail resume to:[email protected] •Key person responsible for the coordination of various duties relating for the following positions: Based in the NY Showroom must be *Wholesale Account Executive to local benefit administration, including group insurance benefits, and highly motivated these positions req administration of company vacation and sick pay policies. cold calling & established contacts are *Store Manager a plus. Min 5-7 yrs "stong selling exp". Ideal wholesale account executive The successful candidate would possess an Associates degree and have Salary is commensurate w/exp. Pls candidate must have current Outstanding Sales Executive IMPORT COORD. ASST. Great Retail Contacts Midtown Apparel Co. seeks organized, a minimum of 7 years of related experience with a company of like size, email:[email protected] relationships and experience with luxury boutiques and major retailers. Looking for Business to Help Build self-motivated individual to work in have a high degree of integrity and honesty and confidentiality in working Call: 609 519 1399 operations dept. Prior exp. (1-2 yrs) SALES MANAGER Must be results driven and possess a w/import traffic mgmt. Duties include with all levels of people. Advanced computer skills, office skills and out- Italian Textile Agency for sales manager love of fashion, proven track record of follow-up customs & freight releases, standing oral and written communication skills are all required. Previous or agent w/established relationships in increasing sales, and excellent schedule container warehouse deliveries, experience in payroll or human resources benefit administrationare a plus. the better & bridge desinger market. analytical and communication skills. shipping advice and customer service. Experience required; Must be motivated Ideal store manager candidate will Competitive salary/benefits. Fax resume NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER to develop & maintain relationships w/ possess a love of home furnishings, w/salary requirements to: 212-840-8738 american customers. Submit resume textiles and interior design; have Reporting directly to the VP Global Sales, this individual would be responsi- to [email protected] proven track record of increasing ble for the development of business accounts by planning all sales activity sales, a positive work ethic, and strong including product presentations, negotiating prices and delivery informa- leadership skills. Must be friendly and SALESPERSON professional with a strong client LINGERIE/DAYWEAR tion in retail department store sector and coordination with design of line Age Group seeks showroom salesperson following. Both positions require 3-5 DESIGNER and merchandising. Develops annual forecasts to maintain proper invento- to handle branded SW and underwear yrs exp in similar position. Must have ries and monitors the profitability of each account. Leadership and devel- lines for existing account list. 2 yrs a college degree. Salary commensurate Exp designer wtd. for contemp line. min sales exp req’d. Great opportunity. with experience. Knowledge of RPro & FT/freelance. email [email protected] opment of team including A/E’s and merchandise coordinators. Success- Email resume Att: Richie to: Photoshop a plus. E-mail resumes to ful candidate would have 3-5 years wholesale sales or buying/planning [email protected] [email protected] background with socks or hosiery a plus, and a four year degree, strong MERCHANDISER communication skills and self motivated and analytical thinking all required. Senior merchandiser with min. 5 years exp needed for major apparel co. Over- Scout the Talent Recruit the Best. Reach see merchandising from design devel. Qualified candidates should send resume and salary history to: to shipping. Ability to comm. w/ design [email protected] or to Hot Sox Company, team, retail buyers, and overseas office. more industry talent than ever – in person, Strong fabric and garment construc- 661 Linville Road, Mount Airy, NC 27030 AA/EEO/M/F/D/V tion knowledge. Outerwear exp a plus. Domestic and overseas travel required. online and in print. Fill open positions Great salary and growth potential. Please fax resume to: 212-643-0593 SPEC TECH/ QUALITY CONTROL in everything from fabric specialist to Yigal Azrouel Inc seeks a Spec. Tech. Merchandising Apparel Industry and QC Coordinator for Designer design to retail. Interview hundreds of HAVE YOU LOST YOUR JOB? Womenswear Apparel. Strong Knowledge WANT TO SHARE YOUR STORY? of garment construction and specs If you have lost your job in the along with excellent computer and experienced industry professionals in one Last 6 months, we are collecting technical skills a must. Follow up and Oral histories about the Garment communication with overseas and domestic Industry & want to hear your tale. contractors required. Minimum 5 Blue Notch afternoon. Participate in the most e-mail: [email protected] years experience. Sales Mngr & Sales Rep Wanted Fax or email resume to: Min. 5 yrs & 2 yrs, respectively PRODUCTION ASSISTANT 212-302-3310 or [email protected] Experienced in denim industry comprehensive recruiting solution resumes to: [email protected] MAJOR WOMENS APPAREL IMPORTER SEEKS PRODUCTION for the fashion, retail and beauty ASSISTANT. MUST BE HIGHLY OR- Independent Sales Reps GANIZED, EFFICIENT. GOOD COM- Sweater Designer VP High fashion watch brand is looking industries. WWD drives the most MUNICATION SKILLS. MUST HAVE Maj Runway Contemp Desgr $150-250K for Independent Sales Reps to cover GOOD WORKING KNOWLEDGE OF [email protected] 212-947-3400 the West Coast and Southwest territo- MICROSOFT EXCEL, OUTLOOK ries. Reps need to have established qualified talent in the industry to the WWD AND WORD. WAL-MART EXPERI- relationships with Specialty/Boutique ENCE PLUS GOOD BENEFITS stores. Please e-mail resume or contact Gina at [email protected] FAX RESUME TO 212-703-2999 TD SR MGR MENS WOVENS $135K Fashion Career Expo! Multi-platform _ Better Contemp Sprtswr. Supervise 9 E-MAIL: HR LNS @ YAHOO.COM [email protected] 212-947-3400 opportunities will promote your company Production Coord $60-70K. Strong exp TECH DESIGNER in approvals & followup from incep- Fast paced women’s apparel importer SALES EXECUTIVE as an amazing career resource. Reach tion to completion dealing w/factories w/great benefits seeks exp’d, responsible First time opportunity! Sanctuary worldwide. No travel. Hudson County loc. candidates. Excel experts. work well Clothing is opening a New York com- [email protected] 973-564-9236 under pressure w/sense of urgency. pany showroom. Be part of this new over 200,000 monthly unique users on pattmaking exp., grading, strong commu- journey. Min 3 years exp in the nication skill in fit corrections and Contemporary Market. Be adventurous, technical sketches. private label exp. a Production Mgr to $100K. Hindi/Eng work for a company on the move! fashioncareers.com with an online plus. Pls fax resume to 212-302-3872 or Submit your resume w/ salary req’s to: or Chinese/Eng bi-ling reqd. women email: [email protected] & Jr sportswear. Thorough knowl- [email protected] display ad, exhibitor profile and job edge of construction of garments & processing w/factories in China & India. [email protected] 973-564-9236 Technical Design Asst SALES EXECUTIVE posting package. Fast growing women’s apparel co. Hot young Junior Company looking Retail Analyst $70-80K. Current exp in seeks detailed oriented jr. tech design for a dynamic and motivated seller. 3-4 lab dips, fit comments, CTL &MTL of asst with 2-3 years exp. Resp: asst sr. years experience in Junior Market is private label for approvals for Walmart tech design director with dev. required. Huge growth and earning or Target. Exp in retail link required. Tec-pack, Pre-Prod, style changes, potential. Please email resumes to [email protected] 973-564-9236 measuring & sitting in on fittings, [email protected] grading, approving pre-prod & corre- spond with factories. Must be team player. Photoshop, Excel a must. Great Sample Maker Co. benefits! Fax: 212-221-1353 Looking for experienced couture sample maker for designer studio. The Apparel World’s Premier Hiring Event! 212-842-2066 TECHNICAL DESIGNER June 19th 2008 | California Market Center | Los Angeles Tech designer with 5 + years exp. Sales Executive needed for branded apparel company. NY Showroom seeking energetic sales SHIPPING CLERK Ability to translate design concept into executive in contemporary PREMIUM product from sketch and prepare tech DENIM market. Must have 5 yrs exp Reserve your booth now! ANNA SUI packs for overseas factory to follow us- and est’d following with specialty Presenting Sponsor: 2+ yrs exp. women’s designer sports- ing Illustrator. Knowledge of pattern stores & dept stores required. Excel- Contact Melissa Yoblon-Gentile at 212-655-4505, x262 or wear. Picking, packing, contractor and fitting. Overseas travel required. lent comp & benefits package. Please [email protected]. Visit fashioncareers.com receivings, good communication skills. Great opportunity and growth potential send resume w/ salary history to: Fax/Email resume & salary: 212-768-2358 for the right candidate. Please fax [email protected] for new package options and sponsorship opportunities. [email protected] resume to: 212-643-0593

© D.YURMAN 2008 NEW YORK BEVERLY HILLS CHICAGO HONG KONG HOUSTON ATLANTA LAS VEGAS BAL HARBOUR BOSTON DALLAS SOUTH COAST PLAZA DAVIDYURMAN.COM SECTIONWWD II BASELPREVIEW WITH SIHH READY FOR PRIME TIME Watch brands remain bullish about their business even with worldwide economic wobbles — but aren’t taking any chances. At the industry’s two major shows — Baselworld 2008 trade fair from today through April 10 in Basel, Switzerland, and the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie show in Geneva from April 7 to 10 — they plan to give their collections a jolt of brightness with everything from citrus shades to rose gold. Here, from left, styles from Movado, Gucci, Van Cleef & Arpels and Philip Stein Teslar. PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY TALYA COUSINS TALYA GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY www.rado.com

CERAMICA CHRONOGRAPH JUBILÉ

824 MADISON AVENUE, NEW YORK 212 439 4220 - 1-866-DEGRISO

GENEVA - GSTAAD - HONG KONG - KUWAIT - LONDON - MOSCOW - MYKONOS NEW YORK - PARIS - PORTO CERVO - ROME - ST BARTH - ST MORITZ - TOKYO www.degrisogono.com 6 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008

SECTION II WWD.COM

BASEL PREVIEW The Women’s Movement

By Robert Murphy This approach resonates with some retailers who think unisex designs con- tinue to sell better than watches designed particularly for women. A LOT OF SWISS MANUFACTURERS SCRATCHED THEIR HEADS WHEN “While there are fantastic, complicated women’s offerings from Zenith, TAG, women started to buy fi ne timepieces designed for men a few years back. Patek and now Hublot, I’m still unsure if there is a great demand in this segment,” It surely had something to do with fashion, which was out of character in an said Andrew Block, executive vice president of watch retailer Tourneau. “We see industry known for egghead engineers and men passionate about their watches the women’s market this way: Women are buying large watches, which happen to that, for some, was their only accessory. But as women continued to be labeled ‘men’s’ by the brands. We feel that the brands should eliminate gender buy expensive watches with zeal, many fi rms began to wonder if the when categorizing their models and refer to them by size instead. By using fairer sex might represent the next great consumer frontier. small, medium and large descriptions, they open up the market to “It’s a revolution,” said Stanislas de Quercize, president and both genders.” chief executive offi cer of Van Cleef & Arpels. “Women are inter- At Piaget, about 60 percent of total sales are to women. ested in watches like never before.” “Women have been buying men’s-size watches more and more,” Demand for the most expensive women’s watches grew said ceo Philippe Léopold-Metzger. “Women in most instances are fastest in the U.S. last year, according to LGI Network LLC, a not interested in mechanical watches. They do prefer quartz if market intelligence fi rm that specializes in tracking lux- they have a choice. This is likely to change in the future, but only ury sales. Sales of women’s watches retailing above progressively, and primarily in Asia.” $25,000 grew 15 percent, representing 21 percent Jewelry companies have the best track records in attracting of the entire market. Sales of women’s watches women to watches. A brand like Cartier accounts for a large between $3,000 and $5,000 increased 7 percent chunk of the segment’s overall sales. and during the last two years, sales of wom- “We are jewelers,” said Bernard Fornas, ceo of Cartier en’s watches over $25,000 have advanced 35 International. “We make bijoux that tell time. It’s an alchemy percent. between us and our clients that works.” Data like this suggest that women are Fornas noted that women in general are buying more ditching cheaper quartz models in favor of watches. sophisticated mechanical pieces. Although “They have more autonomy and more independence,” the industry has yet to accept that idea — he said. “They are buying for themselves. But they are also many manufacturers think women’s inter- buying men’s watches, like the Pasha. But most women, be- est in mechanics will prove but a fl ash in sides Asia, aren’t really interested in mechanical watches.” the pan — several key players have seized Fawaz Gruosi, ceo of de Grisogono, who launched watches the moment to introduce serious pieces with seven years ago after building a thriving jewelry business, said women in mind. his jeweler’s eye allowed him a window on what women covet. Patek Philippe created a perpetual calen- dar wristwatch for women, Zenith introduced tourbillons — one of horology’s most sophis- ticated movements — and Tag Heuer has re- It’s a revolution….Women are interested ported strong business with its chronographs “ for women. in watches like never before. “We should adapt better to women and not ” the other way around,” said Jean-Claude Biver, — Stanislas de Quercize, Van Cleef & Arpels ceo of Hublot, which this year is introducing a smaller sized Big Bang directed at women. “[Women] have their requirements, taste and “For a woman, a watch is an ornament, it’s like a bracelet, it’s more of an representation of what a watch should be.” object,” said Gruosi, adding that 60 percent of his watch production is bought De Quercize of Van Cleef & Arpels said, by women. “Women today want mechanical complications, but With all of the hoopla about watches, more fashion names are getting into they want complications that are made for them.” the fi eld. Brands launching watches at Baselworld include John Galliano and Van Cleef last year introduced so-called poetic complica- Cartier’s Perles de Salvatore Ferragamo. Ralph Lauren has created a joint venture with Compagnie tions on wristwatches, which include the likes of a rotating Cartier watch with Financière Richemont to launch watches and Richemont-owned fashion house sun and moon, as a way to give a feminine twist to intricate 389 diamonds. Chloé is also charging into the category. mechanics. Chanel, with its J12 watch, showed the potential of melding a powerful fashion “The watch industry has been very macho and has mostly name with sophisticated mechanics. considered women as an afterthought,” de Quercize said. “Women won’t tolerate “We’ve had great success,” said Philippe Mougenot, president of Chanel’s that approach anymore.” watch and jewelry division. Nonetheless, many fi rms have built an important female clientele by merely With about 60 percent of its watch business done with quartz pieces, presumably blinging out their existing men’s models with diamonds and other glitzy stones sold to women, and the rest driven by mechanical pieces, Mougenot said the company or by adding a colorful strap in an exotic skin. Corum, for example, doesn’t make is trying to even the playing fi eld by introducing more products geared to men. a single women’s watch. But Severin Wunderman, the brand’s owner, estimated It successfully introduced a tourbillon and this year it will show watches that women account for a signifi cant amount of business. use the “3125” movement by Audemars Piguet. The watch is expected to retail for “Our women’s sales are all men’s-size watches, especially the diamond pieces about 19,000 euros, or $29,970 at current exchange. and the artisan enamels,” he said. “Men are our customers, too,” Mougenot said.

The Concord Hublot’s Big watch with Bang in orange diamonds. with sapphires.

Chanel’s J12 has had success with men and women.

8 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008

SECTION II WWD.COM

BASEL PREVIEW Despite Economic Woes, Luxe Timepieces Keep Ticking

By Robert Murphy WITH FINANCIAL MARKETS REELING, GOLD AND DIAMOND PRICES SOARING AND CURRENCY markets riding a dizzying seesaw, it would seem the time has come to turn bearish on luxury. But executives at most Swiss timepiece fi rms shrug off any omens of gloom. On the contrary, they say the industry is healthier than ever and that emerging markets like China and Russia should outstrip the effects of any drop in demand in the U.S. and Europe. “Brands that are well presented in emerging markets will fl ourish,” said Bernard Fornas, chief execu- tive offi cer of Cartier International. “We’ve opened recently in Russia, Baku [Azerbaijan], Siberia, China…. We didn’t have those shops in 2001. China is growing. Hong Kong is strong. We are in a position today that we can amortize [the effects of a slowdown elsewhere].” Exports of Swiss watches grew 25 percent in January thanks to strong demand for the most expensive pieces, according to the Swiss Watch Federation. Industry growth has been spectacular over the last couple of years, with 2007 a record year for most Swiss fi rms. “This year we hope for more than 25 percent growth,” said Fawaz Gruosi, ceo of De Grisogono, who said he remained bullish thanks to strong sales in his shops through the fi rst few months of 2008, as well as demand for new watch models.

Francesco Trapani, ceo of Bulgari, said, “Emerging markets such as China, Russia, ▼ India and the Middle East, which are more and more interested in high-end watches, Bulgari’s are creating a strong basis for the future growth of this business.” Diagono Piaget ceo Philippe Léopold-Metzger, said, “Sales continue to be excellent, includ- Calibro.

ing in March. Two-thirds of our sales come from Asia, the Middle East, Russia and ▼ Eastern Europe. This should protect us to a certain extent from a slowdown if it Louis Vuitton’s were to materialize. Sales are great in Asia, and in northern Asia in particular.” Tambour Orientation. Most key players continue to accelerate shop openings in emerging markets where luxury is fl ourishing thanks to newly aspirational consumers. Bulgari opened fi ve stores in Mainland China last year. This spring the Roman jeweler plans to open in Macao, which is quickly becoming a hot spot for jewelry and watches thanks to the boom in casinos there, and twin stores in Hong Kong. Van Cleef & Arpels will double the size of its stores in Beijing and Shanghai and the fi rm recently opened in Macao and Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Piaget just opened a fourth boutique in Taiwan, as well as a fourth ▼ in Hong Kong. “Mainland Chinese now account for more than 25 percent of our worldwide sales,” said Leopold-Metzger. Severin Wunderman, owner of Corum, said, “India, Singapore, Hong Kong, Thailand and Malaysia are all booming in Southeast Asia, except Japan, where we are totally fl at. Our total production is [already] sold out for Basel this year.” Thierry Nataf, ceo, president and creative director of Zenith, said “Asia is booming,” adding the fi rm just opened in Shanghai. He said China was Zenith’s top growth mar- ket, with Taiwan, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand and Vietnam showing great promise. “In the next fi ve years, I believe we will continue to see [double-digit] growth in this area of the world,” he said. Trapani agreed. “The region is enjoying very strong growth, counterbalancing the

softness in Western countries.” Corum’s ▼ Even in the U.S., at least for now, few warning bells are ringing that luxury watch Golden sales will cool. Tourbillon. “Business is still holding up very well for us,” said Andrew J. Block, executive vice president of Tourneau. While the sinking value of the dollar against the euro and the Swiss franc has caused prices to skyrocket, Block Increasing gold prices haven’t barred said the above-$5,000 category has shown “tremendous consumers from buying fi ne watches. strength.” “We do see an infl ux of European and South American customers due to the weak dollar,” Block said. “It’s criti- cal for brands to continue to support the growth of the U.S. market and not turn to other parts of the world be- cause of the weak dollar.” Still, as the industry navigates into the more uncer- tain landscape of 2008, there appear to be myriad chal- lenges. The soaring price of gold, diamonds and other raw materials, on top of the value of the dollar, are among the hurdles. Last month, Swatch Group, owner of brands including Omega and Breguet, tempered its enthusiasm for contin- ued growth with a word of caution on currencies and raw material prices “creating new challenges.” Some analysts are beginning to raise fl ags, too. “In a slowing environment, we believe the watch segment to be the most at risk in terms of momen- tum,” HSBC luxury analysts Antoine Belge and Erwan Rambourg wrote in a recent report. “We do not expect a collapse in demand, but the slowdown of the category could be more spectacular, coming from a higher level.” For the moment, however, executives said meeting de- mand remained the biggest concern. “We can’t make enough,” said Van Cleef & Arpels’ worldwide ceo and president Stanislas de Quercize, who added that booming demand for more extraordinary pieces will push the jewelry house’s average price points

up by 50 percent this year. JACK VEAREY/GETTY IMAGES GOLD PHOTO BY

10 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008

SECTION II

BASEL PREVIEW David Yurman Dior

Bulgari

NIGHT WATCH

De Grisogono

Versace Ebel WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 11

WWD.COM

Milus Hermès

Tag Heuer

Diamonds are it for evening, and this year’s new offerings go from day to night and suit any taste, from luxed-up sporty looks to classic bejeweled styles. — Talya Cousins I

Audemars Piguet

Baume & Mercier Diane von Furstenberg for H. Stern PHOTOS COURTESY OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, BULGARI, H. STERN AND TAG HEUER; ALL OTHERS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; JEWELRY ASSISTANT: ILENE CHO GEORGE CHINSEE; JEWELRY ASSISTANT: HEUER; ALL OTHERS BY BULGARI, H. STERN AND TAG PIGUET, OF AUDEMARS PHOTOS COURTESY 12 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008

SECTION II

BASEL PREVIEW Selling VIPs: Going to Extremes

By Sophia Chabbott its fi rst multicomplication watch with a tourbillon. “Our most passionate watch clients are often wait-listed for rare and precious THE WORD LUXURY GETS THROWN AROUND THESE DAYS MORE THAN THE creations, such as the Assioma Limited Edition in pink gold, of which we only term “superdelegate.” produced 199 worldwide,” said Bulgari ceo Francesco Trapani. And with the global economy on shaky ground, so-called luxury brands are trying Earlier this year, Girard-Perregaux president and ceo Ron Jackson took a pri- to redefi ne what it means and why, in a period of unrest, a $250,000 tourbillon is vate plane and a Rolls Royce to the Wynn resort in Las Vegas to deliver a $625,000 really needed. Jackpot Tourbillon watch to a collector. For watch fi rms, that means going to great lengths for consumers, whether it’s a “In order that this watch arrived both safely and on time, I brought it over my- brand’s chief executive offi cer hand delivering a watch — and taking a private jet self,” said Jackson. “The box alone cost $10,000. It’s not something you just want and Rolls Royce to get there; doing a custom watch, or maybe hosting a golf out- to hand over to the local UPS guy.” ing with a former President, as Audemars Piguet did last year, wooing eight VIP Thomas J. O’Neill, president of HWD and chief executive offi cer of Harry clients for a day of golf with Bill Clinton and pro-golfer Winston Inc., said the clients for such extraordi- Vijay Singh. nary timepieces — like the fi rm’s Opus collec- “Exclusive events continue to be an impor- tion that focuses on technical complications tant part of our marketing strategy,” said Piguet and its jewelry watches that can include chief executive officer Francois-Henri hundreds of carats of diamonds — are Bennahmias. quite specifi c in their desires. Piguet has partnered with Clinton, “These are complicated pieces of Shaquille O’Neal and Arnold machinery,” said O’Neill. “People Schwarzenegger on limited edi- who are interested in acquiring the tion timepieces — with most of Opus, for example, are fascinated the editions sold out before they in the engineering.” even offi cially went on sale. While Winston’s die-hard cus- “Limited editions are very tomers wait with bated breath for important to our clients,” said the chance to buy a timepiece Bennahmias. “Our custom- from the fi rm’s Opus series, which ers are constantly looking for ranges in price from $250,000 to unique timepieces to add to $700,000 with complications their collections.” such as a resonance chronom- For the Clinton Foundation eter, tourbillon, perpetual cal- Equation of Time watch, a lim- endar and minute repeater ited run of 42 pieces, each was that sings cathedral chimes, he produced in platinum for $137,300, tries to be fair about distribut- white gold for $100,100 and rose gold ing them. for $98,800. The Royal Oak Offshore “There’s a waiting list longer Shaquille O’Neal Chronograph was than my arm,” said O’Neill. “It’s a limited to 960 steel watches that sell diffi cult thing to fi gure out who gets for $27,000 and 96 white gold ones that will them and when they get them. We want to be sell for $75,000. able to share these complicated watches with Severin and Michael Wunderman, the new customers. There’s a limit to our ability to father-son duo who own and run Corum, are produce more pieces.” centered on customer care. The pair hosts Cartier gives access to its latest and great- intimate dinners and art tours at the elder est timepieces to its loyal clients. For the fi rst Wunderman’s French chateaux. They hand- time this year, the Compagnie Financière deliver pieces to clients, as well. Michael, the Richemont-owned watch and jewelry com- company’s president, said of the brand’s pany will host its top collectors at Salon top collectors: “They are savvy con- International de la Haute Horlogerie. sumers who are interested in “There are more and more American col- luxury buying and know what lectors,” said Cartier North America president they want. Our customers are and ceo Frédéric de Narp. “In Italy, you have not bashful and tend to live many more watch fans.” life with an intensity befi t- De Narp talked about ting their lifestyles.” some of his most important Vacheron Constantin customers, including one brings the factory to the that employs someone clients. The 253-year-old full time to wind his brand, which only makes 540-piece Cartier watch 18,000 watches a year, collection and another who brought four craftsman, has an entire room in his including a guillochet mas- home dedicated to watches. ter, enameller, engraver and “Scarceness is the es- watchmaker, to a Beverly sence of luxury,” said Thierry Hills event in which clients Nataf, worldwide ceo and chief could try some techniques them- designer of Zenith, a 143-year-old selves. The fi rm also brings clients watch brand owned by LVMH Moët to its Geneva factory a few times a Clockwise from top left: A watch from Hennessy Louis Vuitton. “Luxury year and hosts dinners for collectors. Cartier’s new Le Cirque Animalier means high quality, craftsmanship, One hot ticket item sought after by collection, Girard-Perregaux’s Jackpot hand-made and prestigious materials.” collectors is Vacheron’s Mask watch set. Tourbillon, a diamond bedecked Zenith produces its watches in small Each dial of the four watches depicts a trib- jewelry watch from Harry Winston quantities. The brand has created a new al mask from an ancient culture. Twenty-fi ve and a complicated watch from Zenith. department called Only One Watch in which sets were made and sold at a price of $441,000, Center: Chopard’s Super Ice Cube clients can get custom-made watches. The Only but the demand far exceeded the supply. watch, which sells for $1.5 million. One watches have 350 parts within. “I could have sold four times that,” said “I design watches for a lot of VIPs, celebrities, Tornare. The average price of a Vacheron stars or businessmen all around the world, but hush,” Constantin watch is $30,000, but prices can go up to $1 million. said Nataf. “We want to be discreet about it.” Chopard invites top clients to its factory in Switzerland a few times a year. The Discreet is the name of the game at Van Cleef & Arpels, said president and ceo fi rm also holds exhibitions and seminars around the country, explaining how the in North America Emmanuel Perrin, who wants to keep the fi rm’s rarefi ed watch watches are made. business just that. “We do extraordinary things for [our collectors], but at the same time we real- “Enough is enough. You have brands calling themselves limited editions with ize it’s a business,” said Marc Hruschka, Chopard’s U.S. president and ceo. 500 pieces,” he said. “We don’t even use the term limited edition anymore. It’s The company has sold two of its Super Ice Cube watches, which cost $1.5 mil- not relevant.” lion each. Hruschka said the top end of the business is a boon for its more acces- Van Cleef & Arpels sold 3,500 watches in 2007 and tripled that segment of its sibly priced watches. business in that year. Some watches the company makes are limited to as few “It’s a small percentage of our business, but one that really drives the rest of pieces in production as four or eight. The company offers complications, jeweled our watches,” said Hruschka. “It’s the halo for all our watches.” watches and some combining both. Prices for its watches range from $12,000 to Bulgari will occasionally do custom watches for its best clients. The fi rm is $220,000. And — as with most of the top fi rms — at the top price point, the watch- also bent on creating limited editions to entice sales. In 2006, the fi rm launched es generally are sold even before they hit the store fl oor. WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008 13

WWD.COM Collect Calling While such august names as Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet continue to inspire reverence among collectors, newer watchmakers are garnering attention as well. Here’s a look at some insiders’ favorites. — Robert Murphy

Richard Mille: Frenchman Richard Mille has commanded attention from collectors Greubel Forsey: for his starkly modern approach to a tradition-bound craft. In creating watches Collectors become with pieces inspired by Formula One auto racing or high-tech aeronautics, Mille enthused when the in many ways helped catapult Swiss horology into the 21st century. names of Robert Greubel “My objective was to look into the future,” said Mille, 57, who founded his and Stephen Forsey are men- business in 2001. “I found horology was using methods that belonged to the 21st tioned. They are the wizards century — computers and advanced machinery — to create watches that be- behind some of the most longed to the 19th century. It’s like using today’s automobile technology to make sought-after horological cre- a Model T Ford.” ations in recent years, includ- Mille calls his approach antimarketing. ing the Opus 6 watch they “I don’t give myself any price restrictions,” he said. “When you do that you created for Harry Winston have to compromise. For me, it’s only the end result that counts.” in 2006. Nonetheless, Mille recognizes that his approach has tapped into the trend “We like to push the for ultimate luxury with pieces that speak to collectors obsessed with owning limits,” said the French- the ne plus ultra. born Greubel, 48. “People “There are more connoisseurs today,” he said. “There are more billionaires. say everything’s been People who buy a Mille are not interested in social acceptance through a brand. done in watchmaking. We They’ve gone beyond that.” believe we can invent.” Though the average price of a Mille is around 70,000 euros, or $110,468 at cur- The duo has explored rent exchange, the designer said he doesn’t consider his watches destined for the the possibilities of per- bank vault. fecting the tourbillon. “I’m not about gimmicks,” he explained. “All of the materials I put into my Their Double Tourbillon watches serve a function. They are watches to be worn.” 30 Degrees grappled with But not by many. Mille estimated that there streamlining the mecha- is a more than 10-year waiting list for nism Breguet invented in some of his creations, like the RM 004, the 18th century to minimize a chronograph that has a movement the effect of gravity on time. base plate in carbon nanofi ber. “Breguet created the tour- “There have been no cancel- billon for a pocket watch,” said lations, so far,” Mille said of the British-born Forsey, 41. “We the backlog. wanted to fi nd similar perfection Last year, Mille managed on a wristwatch, which is not often to produce 1,550 pieces. in a vertical position.” Richard “My goal is to go about Their Quadruple Tourbillon, Mille’s RM0 3,000 watches a year,” he which costs 580,000 Swiss francs, 18 watch is said. “I’m not interested in or about $567,000 at current ex- a tribute to volume.” change, is equally impressive in Boucheron. This year, Mille is in- its attempt to create mechanical troducing a watch that is perfection. an homage to Boucheron to “We are inventors,” Forsey celebrate the Paris jeweler’s said. “That’s what motivates us.” 150th birthday. The wheels of Collector need to be patient the movements are made from if they want a Greubel Forsey. semiprecious and precious With annual production of 80 Greubel Forsey’s stones. Thirty pieces will be watches, the typical waiting Double Tourbillon produced. list is two years. 30 Degrees.

Dent & Co.: The company that made London’s Big FP Journe: Since he burst Ben in the 19th century, and provided onto the scene in 1999, clocks to the likes of Queen Victoria and François-Paul Journe has the Duke of Wellington, was purchased seized collectors’ atten- a few years ago by British watch fa- tions with his highly in- natics Twysden Moore and Frank novative and visually Spurell. bold creations. When they bought the company, “I try to bring science Dent’s existence had been relegated to watchmaking,” said to a couple of intricate clocks a year. Journe, who is respected FP Journe’s Sixty years had elapsed since the for his determination to grande sonnerie. last Dent wristwatches were made. invent new solutions to Dent is now bringing out its old problems. fi rst products. Big Ben inspired “I don’t want to copy its Parliament range, and it has what already exists,” he also referenced its English heri- said. “It’s easy to fi nd solutions tage with a similarly chic, round when you copy the old solutions.” model called the Ministry. Journe believes it’s important to “We’re modern and echo the imbue even the trickiest complications glories of the past without being with a simple air. His most accomplished blurry-eyed,” Moore said. piece is his grand sonnerie, which not only With production limited to chimes the hour at will, but also the quarter 500 pieces a year, demand for hours like a clock. Among watchmakers, it is Dent watches will be high. considered a formidable achievement. “We don’t want to get beyond “It was the most complicated I made,” Journe said. “It 2,000 watches a year,” Moore said. “In was 10 on the Richter scale of diffi culty. It took six years to produce.” a year or two, we hope to be making This year, Journe will introduce an extrafl at minute repeater. “It’s 1,000 pieces a year.” Dent & Co.’s nine on the Richter scale of diffi culty,” he said. “So it was easy.” In the meantime, Dent is developing Parliament watch. With overall annual production of 850 pieces a year, Journe can its fi rst sonnerie piece, which, in keep- hardly meet demand. But he likes it that way. ing with the fi rm’s history, will feature the “I’m an independent,” he said. “I wouldn’t be able to function any chimes of Big Ben. other way.” 14 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008

SECTION II WWD.COM

BASEL PREVIEW IWC: Reaching Out With Retail Strategy By Sophia Chabbott is demanding. They have the knowledge and a lot of money. Collectors are very important to us, especially in the U.S. We have their input on new watches.” THE FINE WATCH INDUSTRY IS ARGUABLY A SWISS MAN’S WORLD, BUT Signature stores become a destination for watch companies, and consider- 140 years ago an American sought to get in the game. ing the level of competition, several brands are opting to open their own shops. Florentine Ariosto Jones, a native of Boston, had a dream to create a watch Audemars Piguet has two stores in the U.S., including a 57th Street fl agship in brand that would surpass every timepiece on the then-thriving American watch New York, and 10 international boutiques. Tiffany & Co. recently announced that market. He traveled to Switzerland in 1868 and partnered with Heinrich Moser, a it would open a 3,000-square-foot Patek Philippe salon on the mezzanine level of native of Schaffhausen, Switzerland, to create IWC Schaffhausen, a Swiss-made its Fifth Avenue fl agship. While it’s owned and run by Wynn, the Rolex boutique in brand with Jones’ design aesthetic that remains based in the tiny town. Las Vegas is a destination for collectors with its vast array of the brand’s watches. Today, IWC watches, with their simple designs and complex movements, are “A monobrand boutique can be a very powerful statement in any part of the viewed by connoisseurs as some of the most luxury industry,” said Suzanne Hader, principal collectable in the world, on par with Patek of 400twin Luxury Brand Consulting. “There’s Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. In 2001, A rendering of nothing like immersing your audience in a physi- the company was acquired by Compagnie IWC’s Las Vegas cal experience, but many companies don’t go far Financière Richemont, which owns brands store. enough and the experience is undifferentiated such as Cartier, Jaeger Le Coultre and Van from the competition. I would love for one of Cleef & Arpels, and has been growing at a these brands to push the envelope and come up rapid pace of late, namely in the U.S. with something like the Apple Store for luxury “The visibility of the brand has grown watches. Barring that, having a fantastic infor- within the past three to fi ve years,” said mation-rich, e-commerce-enabled Web site is as Benoit de Clerck, president of IWC North important, if not more so, than retail stores.” America. “We have introduced many new IWC’s stores were designed by an in-house team products and we redesign a new line and creative director Guy Bove. The showcase ma- every year [based on a vintage style].” terials are stainless steel, brushed aluminum and The brand offers mostly men’s watch- white leather. IWC has 16 units outside the U.S. in es, but women have taken to the oversize places such as Dubai, Zurich, Malaysia and Hong and streamlined designs, such as the Kong. Watches in the stores range from $3,000 to $300,000 for limited edition styles Portuguese with its clean dial and numer- with complications, but the average price range is from $10,000 to $30,000. als in rose gold, and the Pilot’s Watch, The brand is focusing on its limited edition business. For it’s 140th anniver- which has an antique feel. sary, the company is launching a $241,100 set of six platinum vintage watches, De Clerck said there is a growing IWC is celebrating its 140th anniversary comprising the Portuguese, Ingenieur, Pilot’s Watch, Da Vinci, Aquatimer and cadre of American collectors of the brand, by reissuing six vintage styles. Portofi no, in a matching tufted leather box. There will be 140 sets available world- so the company is opening several stores. wide and 2,160 of the platinum watches will be made. The vintage watches will This winter, the fi rst IWC boutique opened also be done in stainless steel in unlimited production. in the Palazzo Resort Hotel Casino in Las Vegas. In July, IWC plans to open an IWC is also trying to inspire change among brands in how watches are made. 800-square-foot U.S. fl agship on Brighton Way in Los Angeles. The brand has a Over the past fi ve years, the fi rm has made an effort to go green. It has opened strategy to open several more boutiques within the next few years in locations new factories that reduce carbon dioxide emissions, reuse rainwater and use heat such as Miami, New York, Dallas and Chicago. pumps instead of heat pellets for its buildings. “[Having our own stores] is a way for us to show collectors that we are serious “People thought it was crazy years ago to go green,” said de Clerck. “But we and we can give them what they want,” said de Clerck. “An American collector have increased productivity.”

Moschino’s Cheap & Chic is another brand to have hopped on the watch bandwagon thanks to a Designers Get Wound on Watches fi ve-year license with Gruppo Binda, a $400 million watch and costume jewelry maker. By Alessandra Ilari for most luxury markets and even more so Versace, a forerunner in the use of ceramic in Asia.” in watches, will unveil Era, a women’s COMMERCIALLY VIABLE, TRENDY, LUXURI- Ferragamo will target 500 stores in 60 watch with a clean and contempo- ous and often iconic, fi ne watches have become a countries, including 200 Ferragamo bou- rary design shaped as a bracelet. fast-paced growth avenue for many fashion houses, tiques, for its watches. The gold-plated strap features boosting their sales and image. Celebrating the color blue, Dior will pre- ceramic insets, the face is white And a string of brands, including Ferragamo and miere Dior Christal Rubber Blue, an exten- enamel and the bezel is embed- Moschino Cheap & Chic, are launching watch col- sion of its sporty chic and high-tech Rubber ded with 34 white diamonds. lections at the Baselworld fair, while others such watch, a navy blue chronograph with a nau- Roberto Cavalli also has raised as Versace, Dior, Cavalli, Guess and Armani are re- tical feel highlighted by 76 white diamonds. the glamour bar with Roberto plenishing their offerings with new styles. Interspersed between the diamonds on the Cavalli The Diamond Time collec- Proving the point that designers take this brand bezel are sapphires, also applied onto the tion that he claims was a natural extension seriously, John Galliano postponed the deep sea blue rubber strap. evolution for his watches. launch of his fi rst namesake watch collection, li- Also at Baselworld, Gucci will un- “As the clothes evolve in an censed to Morellato and initially scheduled for veil Chiodo, a watch inspired by the extremely sophisticated manner Baselworld, claiming he needed more time to fi ne- iconic square nail head employed with a couturelike approach, I felt tune the prototypes and study more styles. by the luxury goods house since the need to offer my customers Watches from Designer watches are usually ingrained with the Sixties. Like the horse bit, the an item which represents the Guess (above) and the brand’s design signatures and offer innovative nail motif hails from the equestri- highest level in the watch seg- Ferragamo (left). elements combined with sophisticated Swiss move- an world and is modeled on the ment,” Cavalli said. “This watch ments. The mixture offers an alternative to tradi- pyramidal nails used to hold the is Swiss made, with a sleek de- tional watches, especially for those consumers who shoe against the horse’s hoof. sign enriched by the use of diamonds and rock crys- view watches as a fashion accessory. Further referencing Gucci’s tal that is an absolute novelty for watches.” Ferragamo’s launch watch, for example, was past, designer Frida Giannini The case is sculptured from rock crystal, its inspired by its storied Vara pump, with a stainless crafted a sterling silver varia- milky whiteness a sharp contrast against the black steel case that is slightly undulated to reproduce tion of Chiodo. Other variations face and same color alligator strap. There also are the shoe’s distinctive grosgrain ribbon buckle. include diamond-studded ver- a stainless steel case version, a chronograph and The watch comes with interchangeable lizard, croco- sions, square or round faces and a three-hand-movement model. Retail prices span dile or grosgrain straps in colors such as ruby red, silver, a mother-of-pearl dial. from $3,200 to $6,000. orange and black. The models are in stainless steel or “At Gucci, we have more than 35 years of Jeweled watches are also a priority at Guess, with solid yellow gold with plain cases or ones embellished experience in fi ne timepieces and they represent a new lineup produced by recently founded Swiss with 44 diamonds, while the dial is in mother-of-pearl a powerful growth opportunity,” said Gucci ceo watchmaker Sequel AG, which includes the Arm or full pavé. The watch features a quartz movement. Mark Lee. “Watches, like jewelry, is a long-lasting Candy collection. The watch is set in a sexy and col- The Vara watch is the fruit of a 13-year agree- category, different from seasonal fashion, so we are orful bangle bracelet bedazzled with 300 Swarovski ment with Timex Group, a license projected to rake increasingly building the collections on iconic signs crystals in sapphire blue, amethyst purple and em- in retail sales of 150 million euros, or $219 million that have potential for a long life span.” erald green. The alternative version has a translu- at current exchange rates, in fi ve years. In 2007, watches accounted for 6.6 percent, or cent resin and steel bracelet and no crystal. “This is a very important business, with great 144 million euros ($210million), of Gucci’s 2.18 bil- The Gc line includes the Diver Chic Ceramic potential,” said Michele Norsa, Ferragamo’s chief lion euro sales, or $3.2 billion. Dollar fi gures were chronograph in either white or black ceramic, executive offi cer. “Watches are an iconic category converted at current exchange rates. adorned with either pink sapphires or diamonds. VISIT GEORG JENSEN AT BASELWORLD IN HALL 2.2 – FIRST AVENUE, STAND A92

VIVIANNA Stainless steel watch with brilliant cut diamonds. Design Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe. For further information: www.georgjensen.com 16 WWD, THURSDAY, APRIL 3, 2008

SECTION II WWD.COM

BASEL PREVIEW Putting Their Best Jewels Forward By Katya Foreman “We’re not expecting to see the 10 to 20 percent profi t margins of years past, but if we see single-digit increases, that will be good for us,” said Meyer Hoffman, FENDING OFF ECONOMIC PROBLEMS, JEWELRY AT THE BASELWORLD chief operating offi cer for Mikimoto America. watch and jewelry fair looks set to dazzle with color, unusual gem mixes and ex- The pearl giant will fete the release of its new coffee-table book by Assouline ceptional workmanship for designers hoping to woo big spenders. at the show, with a photo mosaic wall installation by artist Robert Silver. Mikimoto Soaring metals prices will likely be a hot topic at the show, with many design- has some exclusive pieces up its sleeve for Basel aimed at bubbling markets such ers signaling price increases. as Russia and the Middle East. The brand’s collaboration with Yohji Yamamoto, New jewelry brands set to show at the event include Germany’s Abel & “Stormy Weather, Mikimoto,” will also make its debut at the fair. Zimmermann, known for its chain bracelets, and Denmark’s Pilgrim, which specializes “The way the market is going, the superaffl uent are the buyers and it’s impor- in handmade fantasy jewelry crafted from brass, tin or zinc. Galliano will also be intro- tant to reach out to them,” said Hoffman, adding that he nonetheless expects a ducing its fi rst fi ne jewelry line at the show, comprising dagger, fl ower and more restrained atmosphere. coin stories, while Austrian crystal giant Swarovski is headed back to Basel “Everybody, including the superrich, is affected by the economy,” he said. “Our for the launch of its product brand Enlightened — Swarovski Elements. question is whether they’re going to buy a car, go on vacation or buy pearls?” The brand specializes in innovative setting techniques, such as a Designers said they’re pushing the limit in terms of creativity as a JewelMesh “gem fabric” that allows for stones to be set in any mate- result. rial, as well as a range of precision-cut gems and synthetic stones. “When the economy is tough, we have to [stimulate] the The brand was formerly marketed under the trade name Signity, customer,” said Marco Bicego, chairman of his eponymous which was taken over by Swarovski in 2006. jewelry brand. “We’ve been working in the [gemstone] fi eld since the Pointing to Kazakhstan in western Central Asia as one Sixties, but we believe we can enlarge the scope of the of the most important growing markets, the brand is also brand…creating a platform to move it forward into dif- Bulgari’s gold necklace with looking to open corners in Beijing and Shanghai in time ferent fi elds,” said Markus Langes-Swarovski, executive diamonds and tourmalines. for the Olympic Games in August, he said. board member of Swarovski. Below: Pianegonda’s gold, pearl Highlights from Bicego’s diamond-intense range On display will be a number of designer jewelry and sterling silver bracelet. will include long necklaces featuring mixes of brio- pieces made using the brand’s elements, including two- lette diamonds, pearls and coral. star and moon headpieces made by Shaun Leane for Known for its work with the akoya variety of cul- Alexander McQueen. On an arty note, the brand’s Gem tured pearls, meanwhile, Mikimoto has peppered its Visions Couture collection will feature a fl uid body sculp- pearly kingdom with one-off creations made of rare ture by architect Zaha Hadid, made from black rhodium. conch and keshi pearls. Upping the precious quotient, “It’s not only about positioning crystals, but a range of the brand’s classic Baroque pearls collection comes in- elements that foster creativity,” said Langes-Swarovski, add- termingled with black tourmalines. ing the brand can work with any material except for diamonds. “Our aim is to show a variety of pearl usage,” said Apart from innovations at the fair, several jewelry brands Hoffman. signaled price increases ahead. Pianegonda has also worked cultured pearls into its equation, “We’ve had to raise prices by around 10 percent, but we’re the last mixing them with 18-karat gold and setting them in ster- ones to do so,” said Fawaz Gruosi, founder and president of ling silver and rhodium-plated chains for its Pearl Life the Geneva-based fi ne jewelry brand de Grisogono. collection. Business is already up by around 11 percent this year, Bulgari’s high jewelry offering will include a yellow he said. Counting Europe and Russia among its leading gold necklace sprinkled with fancy-cut diamonds and markets, the fi rm has sights set on the U.S. and the Far pink and green cabochon tourmalines, as well as a range East, according to Gruosi. A second store is planned for of bold jeweled rings. Hong Kong by the end of April, and a second U.S. store is As part of its relaunch, Antonini will unveil its new rose lined up for Las Vegas for 2009. gold and Samoa collections at the fair. Black coral and vibrant gemstones will “Things will go slower in the U.S. market, but we’re a niche brand and rela- be among new elements for the brand. De Grisogono’s collection also promises to tively new to the market, so for us, business is getting better and better each be more color-charged. year,” said Gruosi, adding he’d just received news from Saks Fifth Avenue outlin- “We’ve contrasted hard pastels with fl ashy hues,” said Gruosi, citing a new ing plans to extend the de Grisogono collection to four more stores in the U.S. coral line. Hidden luxury is also key, he said, seen in precious stones on clasps, “We’re trying to keep our price points level by watching our overheads and for example. outgoings. The profi t margin will be lower [this year], but the important thing is to “It’s sweet and sassy with a lot of sparkle,” said Orhan of his collection that sell,” said New York-based jewelry designer Gurhan Orhan, adding that, despite will feature mixes of semiprecious and precious stones with pavé settings, strong the generally negative outlook, the fi rm’s business is already up 40 percent since briolettes and rose-cut rubies and sapphires. the beginning of the year. “People are looking for sparkle, color and luster,” he said.

ductions. Breguet is offering the Classique 5447, with a perpetual calendar and minute repeaters. The minute repeater has been improved to produce a more Watch Brands Get Complicated sonorous sound. The movement is entirely hand-engraved with a complex ret- rograde jumping-month mechanism. TECHNICAL AND COSMETIC INNOVATIONS WILL ABOUND THIS YEAR AT Patek Philippe is unveiling its World Time watch ref. 5131, with a mechanism Switzerland’s watch fairs in Basel and Geneva, with tourbillons continuing to that allows for the permanent display of all 24 time zones. On a cosmetic level, garner a fair amount of top watchmakers’ attention. the cloisonné enamel dial highlights Patek’s decorative prowess. Fawaz Gruosi, Corum will give a new twist to the mechanism with its Golden Tourbillon the owner of de Grisogono, continues to make bold statements with his watches. Panoramique, which holds the fabled movement in a case of clear glass. This year, he has created a mechanical digital watch inspired by fast- Eighteen months were needed to develop the mechanism, which Left: Breguet’s new running computer clocks. requires three weeks to be assembled and adjusted. The watch boasts minute repeater with “My offi ce was crazy when I told them my idea,” said Gruosi, who a 90-hour power reserve. Production is limited to 99 pieces. perpetual calendars. pushed his team to make the watch, which he calls Meccanico. “Ours has Jaeger-LeCoultre is introducing a tourbillon to its Right: Jaeger’s AMVOX 650 pieces, but with only one complication.” AMVOX line, which is a partnership between the fa- Tourbillon GMT. Van Cleef & Arpels is also striving to fi nd bled manufacturer and British luxury carmaker Aston new applications for mechanical com- Martin. The AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT blends tradition plications. After introducing its so- with technology by housing the movement in a ceramic called “poetic” complications last case. Materials such as carbon fi ber, platinum and irid- year for women, this year the jew- ium alloys, and tiny ceramic ball bearings were used eler has come up with a poetic to reduce the watches’ weight and girth. complication for men: a watch Chopard has fi led two patent applications for an inno- with a face representing the vative high-frequency escapement that is capable of reach- nighttime sky over Paris’ Place ing a cadence of 8 to 10 hertz. The higher the frequency of Vendôme. It rotates according to balance oscillations, the more accurately the watch will run. the date to give an accurate repre- Traditional mechanical watches have a frequency of 4 hertz, or four sentation of the fi rmament. oscillations per second. So vibrations per hour more than double Tag Heuer is introducing the Grand and the space between seconds will take fi ve-hundredths of a second. Carrera series of watches that plays on its Piaget has a Polo Tourbillon Relatif with a fl ying tourbillon that heritage in motor racing. At the top of the line is circles around the watch once an hour. The watch is designed as a trib- the Grand Carrera Calibre 17 RS2 chronograph. The ute to Paris, with monuments like the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower engraved piece, limited to a production of 1,000 pieces, offers twin onto the case. Zenith, for its part, is showing off its prowess with tourbillon that rotating systems in a sleek and lightweight titanium case. offers a moon phase, date and chronograph. And Bulgari is offering a new Diagono Calibro 303 in Patek’s World Time. Two of horology’s most august names have signifi cant technological intro- honor of the 20th anniversary of the watch style.

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BASEL PREVIEW Bedat & Co. Gets Devine Intervention By Robert Murphy sion of movement. We call them feather numbers. WWD: Why did you go for an oval shape? Diamonds cover PARIS — WILLIAM DEVINE STARTED HIS CAREER W.D.: Oval was very prominent in the Twenties. It’s very this style from as a financial analyst, but it didn’t take him long to dis- pure and simple. Simple watches are the most diffi cult Bedat & Co. cover that his real love was watches. to design. It was really going back to the heritage of the He began to fulfi ll his horologic passion when brand. You’re never sure when a Bedat watch was made. he worked at Universal Geneve. He then helped de The way we use materials is very contemporary. Grisogono run its watch division and also served as director of the Basel World fair before being hired to WWD: Oval is also quite feminine. Was that part of the helm Bedat & Co. after the departure of the brand’s thinking? founder, Christian Bedat. W.D.: Bedat has historically been more geared toward Assuming control after a founder leaves is never an women. Seventy percent of the clients are women. We easy task. But Devine, 41, who holds dual Swiss and wanted the new watch to be a watch for women. Scottish nationality, feels he’s ready to further expand the brand, which is owned by Gucci Group. WWD: You recently signed a partnership with the worldwide concierge service Quintessentially. What is WWD: What is the current state of af- the thinking behind that? fairs at Bedat? W.D.: When you buy a Bedat watch you get free mem- William Devine: It was important to re- bership for a year. It’s really giving life to the concept of position the brand after the founder left. being a lifestyle and luxury brand. From our perspec- My mission has been to take the brand to tive, it’s a new proposal. We have a global exclusiv- the next level in terms of products. ity with them. Quintessentially can make travel We are very much in the rebuild- arrangements or if you’re traveling abroad, for ing stage now. I hate to use the example, and God forbid, break a leg on the world revolution, but it’s been a ski slope and need an English-speaking doctor vast transformation for the brand in Geneva, they can fi nd it for you. to be part of a larger group. We can have a longer-term vision. WWD: What’s the next step to growing the business? WWD: What is the next step? W.D.: We are present in the U.S. with 150 doors, W.D.: I worked on a fi ve-year strategic and 10 doors in Hong Kong and 30 in Japan. If William Devine plan, which we presented last year [to we can replicate the success we’ve had in the Gucci Group]. We are now on track. The U.S. in Europe and other parts of the world, we fi rst step was to understand and redefi ne can increase sales in an important way. We’re the brand essence. It was easy for Christian opening new markets. We opened in the Middle Bedat to do that when he was here because he East in November with a distributor. The for- was the brand. You have to translate those roots mer Soviet republics are also very interesting. into a coherent marketing strategy. The origin of the design is Art Deco. We are known in the WWD: What has changed since Christian industry more for our looks, even if our move- Bedat left? Bedat’s No. 2 ments are great. The end result of our design is W.D.: The biggest issue was corporate culture. watch. very pure. We are known for intricacy, crafts- It was a family-run company, which is very manship and pure style. positive. It gives you a certain spirit. Today, we’ve truly embraced being part of a large culture. Now, WWD: Is product development also an important as- Bedat is run fi rst and foremost as a business. pect of the strategy? W.D.: Absolutely. This year we are introducing a num- WWD: Since you’ve had so much success with women’s ber of new watches at Basel World. The collections are watches, have you thought about doing jewelry? based on numbers. This year we’ve developed a new W.D.: We’ve done more than think about it. This year number, which is a new case shape — the fi rst time in at Basel we are presenting our fi rst small jewelry col- four years that we’ve come up with a new watch. It’s lection. Orianne Collins [British rocker Phil Collins’ called No. 2 and is oval, which is very classical. But the former wife] is designing it. It’s fi ne jewelry. If it’s suc- numbers are positioned on the dial to give an impres- cessful, we’ll take it forward in a bigger way. Macaluso Upbeat on High-End Watches

By Samantha Conti 2.25 carats, a mother-of-pearl dial and an alligator strap. It’s similar in design to the new men’s ww.tc Financial Titanium watch that displays HIGH-END WATCHES ARE SO FAR RESISTING THE 24 time zones, as well as the business hours of the New York, London, shocks from shaky markets worldwide, according to Hong Kong and Tokyo stock exchanges. Girard-Perregaux president Luigi Macaluso. Other new models include the Bi-axial Tourbillon, inspired by a “We’re getting no negative signs from the U.S. and the 19th-century pocket watch; the Vintage 1945, with off-center hour atmosphere there is good,” said Macaluso during a presen- and minute hands on the enamel dial, and the Sea Hawk Pro 1000 tation of GP’s latest models at London’s Design Museum. Meters, made from steel and vulcanized rubber. “Our real problem now, and we hope it continues in the future, is production and meeting demand,” he said, adding it takes 18 months to craft a GP watch and that all movements are designed and We’re getting no negative signs from made in-house. “ He said new markets such as India, China and the U.S. and the atmosphere is good. Russia are thriving. “The Chinese customer is becoming a very demand- — Luigi Macaluso, Girard-Perregaux” ing and sophisticated client,” Macaluso said. “We’re see- ing increased demand from Indians living outside India and Russians everywhere are a good market for us.” All the new models will make their offi cial debut at the Salon Macaluso has unveiled fi ve new models, including one International de la Haute Horlogerie, or SIHH, in Geneva this for consumption-minded women, called the ww.tc 24-hour spring. Macaluso said he’s “optimistic” about future sales. Shopping. The $22,000 watch gives the time around the world, with “Our watches are for collectors and connoisseurs,” he zones marked by famous shopping meccas, including Bond Street, added. “They’re watches for the next generation, not some- Via Montenapoleone, Ginza, Dubai, Rodeo Drive and thing you buy on impulse. I suspect that all the brands at Ipanema. this level, including Breguet and Patek Philippe, are experi- The watch features 77 round diamonds for a total of The ww.tc 24-hour encing similar trends.” Shopping watch.

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BASEL PREVIEW Ebel Serves Up New Beluga By Caroline Tell a steel-and-diamond watch with jeans anymore.” In addition to the relaunch, Ebel’s initiatives in- LIKE THE CAVIAR THAT BEARS ITS NAME, EBEL’S REDESIGNED BELUGA clude expanding the brand into other international watch epitomizes luxury. markets, namely China and Russia. It is also push- The timepiece, which is a signature style of the 97-year-old Ebel brand, is ing into the men’s watch arena for the fi rst time an updated, extravagant version of its former self, featuring a larger face, in- by updating its points of sale with more gender- tegrated crown and refi ned bracelet link. neutral displays. The team behind Ebel, which Movado Group Inc. bought in 2003, felt the One piece of signage appeals to men and piece was due for a facelift. women — that of Gisele Bündchen. The model “Beluga remains one of the most recognized pillars of our collection,” said has been featured in the brand’s national ad- Steve Cohen, Ebel’s president of the Americas. vertising campaign since 2006 and, Cohen said, “And we thought it was time for an update. Over the Steve Cohen embodies the same attributes of the Ebel brand: last several years, we’ve seen a trend toward larger Ebel’s new ad campaign timeless beauty and style, confi dence and success. watches and diamonds, and while diamonds used starring Gisele Bünchen. Ebel is just one example of how Movado Group to be perceived on ‘evening only’ watches, it’s now Inset: the new Beluga watch. is moving up the luxury ladder. Last year, the an everyday accessory in a woman’s wardrobe.” Paramus, N.J.-based company relaunched its Concord Introduced in 1985, the Beluga watch always has label. The reinvigorated brand was introduced at the 2007 been about the bling. It was one of the fi rst timepiec- Baselworld, where it introduced its C1 Collection that fea- es on the market to fuse steel and diamonds. Ebel tures the C1 Chronograph and the C1 Big Date models rang- made sure that the DNA of the watch has not been ing from $9,450 to $29,900. In 2008, the brand will produce lost in its redesign. It maintains its iconic design 2,000 watches for worldwide distribution in 110 watch and by combining such materials. jewelry doors. The updated Beluga will launch at “We decided we needed Concord to really stand for some- Baselworld and hits international doors in the thing and we felt that it lost its identity,” said Alex Grinberg, spring. The price range has risen slightly, now Concord’s U.S. president. “Concord at one time had a strong selling for $5,950 to $19,900, up about $150 identity and slowly we spread ourselves thin. We decided to from last year’s models. Where Ebel had change and had to really go back to our core values for what produced a plain bezel style in seasons past, the brand stood for.” the new watches all feature diamonds. Moving forward, the C1 timepieces will feature more ad- At the heart of the collection is the vanced complications, such as retrogrades and tourbillons, Beluga Caviar, made entirely of white aimed at attracting sophisticated watch enthusiasts. The and black diamonds with an onyx-studded brand also brought on Vincent Perriard, formerly of Audemars dial and stingray strap. Only 10 pieces will Piguet, as its global president in 2006. Perriard has an exten- be sold worldwide at about $58,000. sive history in escalating brands into the luxury arena. With its luxurious look and use of precious “In today’s world, you have to give consumers in any materials, the Ebel brand is establishing itself spectrum a reason to desire and want your product,” said as a luxury player. Efraim Grinberg, president and chief executive offi cer of “We are elevating Ebel into the global mar- Movado. “C1 does that with its unique styling and we are ketplace of luxury brands,” Cohen said. “And very proud of it. We don’t want to be biggest brand, we want women love diamonds. No one is afraid to wear to be the best.” At William Goldberg, Diamonds Are a Family Legacy By Sophia Chabbott Sightholder, in 2004. The contract has been renewed for 20 years,” Saul Goldberg said. “People would ap- for another three years. This spring, the fi rm is open- proach us at the Basel show and say ‘We can’t put loose MANY FIRMS IN MANHATTAN’S DIAMOND ing a new facility in Gabarone, Botswana, to cut diamonds around our necks.’ Our history in stones District have been passed down from parent to stones from 5 carats and above and employ as many translates into fantastic jewelry.” child and some date back four generations. But as 20 workers. William Goldberg projects the factory William Goldberg’s clients come from around the mom-and-pop jewelry operations have dwindled as will put out 1,200 carats of diamonds a month. world and are predominantly international. Russia, major brands like Cartier, De Beers and Van Cleef William Goldberg wholesales diamonds for major China, the Middle East, India and Europe are its most & Arpels dominate the market with worldwide ad- brands and also sells privately in its West 48th Street important markets in order of importance. vertising and marketing campaigns. headquarters. But the focus will turn from loose stones To help build the brand name, the company has The William Goldberg Diamond Corp. aims to and wholesale selling to fi nished jewelry pieces, many employed a number of strategies. A luxurious upstairs fuse the business methods of both. Goldberg, who of which are made on the premises. The fi rm wants to selling salon is being established on East 48th Street, died in 2003, founded his namesake fi rm in 1973 brand its name, similar to Harry Winston and Graff. where clients may come on an appointment basis. after being a partner in diamond-cutting company The brand is now broken down into 80 percent jew- There are also plans to open a traditional storefront Goldberg & Weiss, which he helped start in 1952. elry and 20 percent loose stones. Five years ago only 40 in the Ginza district in Tokyo and other markets. With a penchant for diamonds and gemstones, percent of the sales came from jewelry and 60 percent In 2006, the company tapped Lauren Bergman as Goldberg began selling small stones such as tapered from loose stones. The company is targeting its creative director. Bergman previ- baguettes. Eventually he became a go-to person for $150 million in sales this year. Goldberg ously worked for the now defunct Vivid important colored and colorless diamonds and ac- “We’re a jewelry house, we’re no lon- diamond Collection. Styles range from elaborate quired extraordinary stones. They included the ger a diamond house,” Berg said. earrings. mixed-cut diamond chandelier ear- 136-carat Queen of Holland diamond, the 30-carat Within three years, the company in- rings to intricate bracelets Blue Lili diamond, the 89-carat Guinea Star and the tends to only supply jewelry and loose with prices in the hundreds D fl awless Premier Rose diamond, which Goldberg stones above 10 carats. of thousands of dollars. acquired, cut and polished in 1978. “This movement has been in the works The company also has Goldberg left the business to his done one-off partnerships family. His son, Saul, took over as with designers. In 2005, president; his daughter, Eve, and William Goldberg tapped son-in-law, Barry Berg, are both Narciso Rodriguez to design executive vice presidents, and his a bracelet featuring Goldberg’s widow, Lili, is treasurer. In 2006, the proprietary Ashoka diamond City of New York named West 48th cut. Last year, it collaborated with Street between Fifth and Madison L’Wren Scott on a pair of rough Avenues “William Goldberg Way.” diamond cuffs that Nicole Kidman “My father went door-to-door wore to the Academy Awards. selling baguettes,” said Eve “My father always said that Goldberg. “We were diamond no matter what we make, qual- manufacturers. It was basically ity is the most important thing,” selling loose goods in a mounting. Eve Goldberg said. We’ve come a long way.” Saul Goldberg recalled anoth- To shore up its diamond sup- er motto his father lived by and ply, William Goldberg formed a A diamond collar in Barry Berg, Eve Goldberg that he has adopted: “As long joint venture with Leo Schachter progress in New York. and Saul Goldberg. as you can afford them, buy as Diamonds, a Diamond Trading Co. many diamonds as you can.” PORTRAIT AND WORKSHOP PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA AND WORKSHOP PHOTOS BY PORTRAIT

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BASEL PREVIEW

Ashton Kutcher, Catherine Zeta-Jones and Eric Dane are part of a growing list of celebrities working with watch and jewelry brands.

Giving Timepieces a Celebrity Face By Amy Wicks James Bond series of movies as another important sign on for three years, beginning in fall 2007. part of its marketing. The new Bond fi lm, “Quantum of “A celebrity can invoke a lasting image and she A CELEBRITY FACE FRONTING A WATCH BRAND Solace,” will hit theaters in November. has instant appeal,” said the spokeswoman, adding doesn’t guarantee strong sales, but it certainly “Those fi lms have worked out fantastic for us,” he that brand ambassadors are not required to wear doesn’t hurt. said. “We invest heavily in them and there has been a jewelry or watches in their daily life, but “in good Marketing budgets have swelled in recent years as very direct impact on sales of the Bond watch world- faith, they make their best effort.” She added that brands look to actors, instead of models, for adver- wide during the fi lm period.” having Zeta-Jones as the face of the brand helps es- tising campaigns. Many were quick to embrace the At Baume & Mercier, celebrities became involved tablish credibility with consumers. country’s appetite for celebrity, but there are a few as brand ambassadors in 2006, beginning with Kiefer On the fl ip side, two brands that have not yet fea- that are approaching it more cautiously, since the Sutherland of “24” and Meg Ryan. tured celebrities in ad campaigns and have no plans rules aren’t always clear. “We reintroduced the Baume & Mercier & Me cam- to do so are Cartier and IWC. One of the pitfalls, for example, was highlighted paign [slogan] that had run in the early Nineties,” said Frédéric de Narp, president and ceo of Cartier during Charlize Theron’s now infamous former re- Larry Califano, vice president of North America, said, “I think it’s lationship with Raymond Weil. The Oscar-winning sales and marketing. “We needed kind of an easy way to go,” refer- actress signed a deal in October 2005 that stated she celebrities with a global appeal. ring to campaigns that do feature would only wear Weil’s watches. During the contract, They need to be recognized in the famous. “The product is at the the actress was spotted wearing a watch from a com- China and North America.” center of everything and the star peting brand. It was reported that Raymond Weil Last year, the brand hired Kim of our campaigns,” he added. sued Theron for a substantial sum and the news was Basinger and Gary Sinise as brand Cartier has worked with celeb- picked up by virtually every tabloid and media outlet ambassadors and this year, Teri rities, such as on the red carpet with an interest in celebrity. The case is still pending Hatcher and Ashton Kutcher will and at events like the Oscars and in a federal court, a Weil spokesman said. appear in campaigns. Kutcher, its own initiatives. But de Narp in- Rolex has been working with notable names in who is younger than the past ce- sists that they are not monetarily sports and music, including Roger Federer and lebs who were hired, was brought compensated. Michael Bublé, for decades (Arnold Palmer, for in- on in part to reach out to a young- Another Richemont brand — stance, has been wearing Rolex on the golf course for er male demographic. IWC — doesn’t have the budget to 40 years). But it goes against the brand to work with “Our core has been 35 to 54, but pay for brand ambassadors, but the “It” girl of the moment or a hot celebrity. “We don’t Ashton will appeal to a whole new insists it prefers to focus on the do short-term relationships,” said a spokeswoman. audience,” Califano said. product alone in ads anyway. “We align ourselves with people who are in the areas He didn’t have data to show how “The product is the star,” said we support heavily, such as golf and yachting.” successful the campaign has been; a spokeswoman. “We are ap- But the gold standard of celebrity tie-ups, accord- however, he did note the brand, proached by celebrities, but we ing to some industry insiders, is Cindy Crawford’s owned by Compagnie Financière only work with those that fi t into long tenure with Omega. The Swiss company was Richemont, has had a double-digit our DNA and genuinely love the ahead of many of its peers when it tapped Crawford increase in same-store sales during watches.” Eric Dane of “Grey’s in 1995 to appear in its ads. the past three years. Hatcher and Roger Federer for Rolex. Anatomy” is a friend of the brand “It was quite daring in those days,” said Stephen Kutcher are not under contract to and is asked to attend some events Urquhart, president of Omega. wear the timepieces on the red car- throughout the year. He also wears When Crawford was hired, for a sum that Urquhart pet, but Califano said the company uses them “when- IWC on the show. Others who wear IWC include declined to disclose, the brand was actively trying to ever and wherever we can during their contract.” He Orlando Bloom, Kevin Spacey and Cate Blanchett. reach out to women, who at the time only comprised noted Hatcher was recently seen on a talk show wear- “We also do a lot of product placement,” said the about 25 percent of sales. ing a Baume & Mercier timepiece. spokeswoman, noting that watches have appeared in “Now, women account for 50 Overall, the company spends 10 “Rush Hour 3,” “Jumper,” “Miami Vice” and the re- Patrick percent of sales,” he added. “It’s percent of its revenue on media. cently released “21” with James Sturgess and Kate Dempsey, not all Cindy or Nicole Kidman, Di Modolo is still a relatively Bosworth. the face but it certainly is a large factor.” new player in jewelry and watches, Versace, known more for clothing than watches, of Versace Under the terms of her con- but three years into its business, is introducing its new watch, Acron, at Baselworld. Man, tract, Crawford is still particularly the brand tapped Tea Leoni as a Patrick Dempsey, the face of Versace Man, won’t ap- wearing involved with the brand, fl ying to brand ambassador. The relation- pear in a campaign for the watch, but it will be inter- an Acron events and making public appear- ship began during a photo shoot esting to see if the soon-to-be-released pictures show- watch. ances, including at the upcom- for Condé Nast Publications that ing the “Grey’s Anatomy” star wearing the timepiece ing Summer Olympics in Beijing. involved Leoni and Di Modolo. will be enough of an endorsement to his fans. Kidman will not make the trip, President and chief executive of- “Patrick is an international fi lm star, but also a since the timing will be too close fi cer Benny Shabtai was instantly loving father who takes his children to school and to giving birth. intrigued by the actress because then goes on the set,” said Donatella Versace. “And George Clooney is also a brand of her charity work for UNICEF. besides all of that, he loves fashion.” ambassador everywhere outside A spokeswoman for the brand said Overall, though, most watch brands continue to the U.S. However, Urquhart said Leoni caught the attention of many focus on just their products in their ads, or to use the actor may in time also do ads and “put Di Modolo on the map.” models. Still, in this celebrity-obsessed world, some here. Kidman, for example, began “She was instantly recogniz- involvement with famous faces is a must, either in ad working with Omega overseas and able and embodied our brand per- campaigns, inviting them to parties to be photographed then added the U.S. later on. fectly,” said the spokeswoman. or loaning them watches to wear on the red carpet. Omega invests 25 to 30 percent When Leoni’s time was up as As the spokeswoman at Di Modolo said, “You could of its marketing budget on brand brand ambassador, the company do this [advertising] without a face, but it does make ambassadors and also counts the asked Catherine Zeta-Jones to it a lot easier to connect when you have one.” Annuncio WWD.ai 20-03-2008 17:40:11 www.rado.com CERAMICA CHRONOGRAPH JUBILÉ