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Wild Caribbean with the Grenadines December 4 - 17, 2016

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Wild Caribbean with the Grenadines December 4 - 17, 2016 Wild Caribbean with the Grenadines December 4 - 17, 2016 ST. MARTIN ST. BARTH’S BARBUDA SINT ANTIGUA EUSTATIUS MONTSERRAT ATLANTIC OCEAN GUADELOUPE ILES DES SAINTES DOMINICA MARTINIQUE CARIBBEAN SEA ST. LUCIA ST. VINCENT GRENADINES TOBAGO CAYS GRENADA Sunday, December 4, 2016 USA / Martinique We touched down at Fort-de-France, a sleepy capital city set against a backdrop of saw-tooth volcanic peaks. We checked in to the Cap Est Lagoon Hotel & Spa Resort where we gathered with our fellow travelers and met Expedition Leader Jeff Gneiser and Cruise Director Cynthia Gneiser. As an astounding background chorus of resident frogs cranked into high gear, it was time for the welcome reception and buffet dinner, including introductions of staff and a run-down of the next day’s activities. Monday, December 5 Martinique / Embark Le Ponant This morning, the early bird walkers headed to scrubby, low-lying mangroves at the Presquile Caravelle National Park, while the rest of us traced our way back by the airport area and from there onto a steep, leafy street winding up past pedestrians, grazing goats, and homes both modest and substantial before reaching our first stop, Sacre Coeur de Balata, a miniaturized version of Paris’s Montmartre Basilica. Though the exterior is shabby, Balata’s interior is quite beautiful, light and airy, with windows and walls decorated in delicate art nouveau motifs. As we continued on our tour deep tropical forest enveloped us as our buses climbed up through drifting clouds, dense, dripping greenery, and across narrow bridges above rushing rivers where the trunks of towering hardwoods could just be seen on steep hillsides. Our destination was Le Domaine d’Émeraude or “Emerald Estate.” A drenching downpour accompanied us as we pulled into a large parking lot, but luckily abated as we divided into two groups to explore the steep property’s terrain. Our guides were exceptional, both personable and well-informed. One, Muriel, was the dedicated director of this educational center, a highly trained and sophisticated woman possessed of a fervent mission to preserve and pass on to Martinique’s coming generations, knowledge of the island’s many medicinal plants and their traditional uses. After walks and a museum visit, we were offered an array of local delicacies such as codfish balls and fresh fruit juices. On the way to lunch we caught glimpses of the semi-active Mt. Pelée, Martinique’s tallest volcano at 4,600 feet, notorious for its 1902 pyroclastic eruption, which wiped out the entire population of St. Pierre. Three months later, Pelée claimed more lives in the village of Morne Rouge, the very place where we enjoyed a jolly and revivifying Creole lunch at La Chaudière. We sampled rum, fruit juice, and hors d’oeuvres in a garden pavilion before we tucked into lunch in an open-air dining area, a pleasure increased by what could only be called a bird’s-eye view of lively birdlife in the adjacent garden, including crested Antillean hummingbirds. The next stop was Fort-de-France’s pre-Columbian Museum next to a large park famous for its headless statue of Napoleon’s Josephine, a native of the island whose views on slavery cause controversy even today. We boarded Le Ponant and settled in for a welcome briefing and a chance to stand on the ship’s spacious Sun Deck for a look forward to the beckoning sea. Tuesday, December 6 St. Vincent & the Grenadines Our hardy walkers headed out from Kingstown to a nature trail where they hoped to see the day’s only endemic bird species, the St. Vincent parrot. Shortly after, the cultural group learned that the proper name of this country is “St. Vincent and the Grenadines” (the latter of which are home to 32 islands). We drove past the gleaming buildings of banks and Ministries of Tourism and Commerce, and continued past street sellers and Catholic, Methodist, and Anglican churches, schools, and small shops on the way up a steep hill to Fort Charlotte, named for the wife of George III and once bustling with English soldiers. After enjoying the fort’s expansive views and unusual display of reproductions of colonial era paintings by a single amateur artist, we headed for the oldest Botanical Garden in the West Indies. The garden’s development is a collaboration of two individuals prominent in the island’s colonial history, one English and one French. The garden is bordered by well-kept houses, including the Governor General’s residence. We meandered up a steep central path, before we had the fun of exchanging repeated raucous back- and-forth “Hellos” with a whole gang of St. Vincent parrots, birds belonging to a successful captive breeding program for that critically endangered species. We headed back down the hill and climbed out of the buses for a quick aperitif at a seaside spot which looked directly out at a luxurious private island resort. Our hurried waterside drink was greatly enjoyed as a prelude to a shipboard lunch, followed by a lively afternoon of watersports. Unfortunately, there proved to be too much surge at the local snorkel boat’s regular spot, but Jack Grove, our on-board marine biologist and Zegrahm cofounder, directed the boat’s captain to find us a more protected spot. Visibility wasn’t perfect, but the many people who took to the water with Jack, naturalist Rich Pagen, and historian Richard Fagen saw a good number of species, including a school of ever-exciting squid. Wednesday, December 7 Grenada After a night of vigorous rocking and rolling, there was bright sunshine as our ship entered the bay at St. George’s. Many of those out on deck did an incredulous double take—Are we in Italy?—at the charming sight of a waterfront. Those on the cultural tour stopped for photo ops at the remains of the unfinished international airport, now a flat area, which offers a bizarre scene of scrawny cattle and goats grazing on broken-down tarmac around the wreckage of two burned-out Cuban MIG fighter planes. Our next stop took us back in time as we visited a distillery, which still uses ancient original equipment to produce rum in the traditional way. After the tour, a pair of fetching young women in traditional dress offered us samples of the factory’s rum. We got to try any two of the four types on display, a bottled rum punch, a rum- coffee liqueur, a 169 proof rum, and a 172—or was it 173?—proof rum. On we went through bewitchingly attractive countryside to Helvellyn House at the north end of the island. Atop high cliffs overlooking the Atlantic’s crashing surf, we nibbled on tapas-like snacks and drank the Windward Islands’ typical Christmas drink, a refreshing cold tea steeped from the petals of a hibiscus plant known there as sorrel. Our last stop was the Dougaldston Estate, a producer of nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, allspice, bay leaves, and cocoa beans. We saw the tricky drying process for cocoa beans and walked through a long, narrow shed which smelled sweetly of the spices displayed there both as plants and as finished products. Those on the nature walk set out for a waterfall, but ended up not only with nary a waterfall in sight, but having to slop and squish their way along a sketchy trail mired from recent heavy rainfall. But the day was not yet over… several of us boarded a local catamaran for a visit to an underwater sculpture park. A highlight of the day was the Captain’s gala cocktail party on the beautiful Sun Deck, with Veuve Clicquot for toasting, and a rousing steel-drum band there specially for our dancing pleasure. Thursday, December 8 Tobago Cays We anchored near the five uninhabited islands that comprise the Tobago Cays Marine Park on a morning with a fair amount of wind and a threat of showers. We found ourselves at a truly isolated wild place with an intimate feel to it. Jack led off early with Caribbean Reef Fishes, a “what you see is what you get” talk before the “turtle experience” group departed to the beach to transfer to local boats. In the later afternoon Rich presented Drama Like Your Favorite Soap Opera: Life on the Reef. Rich’s examples from the reef were entertaining, as well as educational. This was a group that has collectively enjoyed many a ship’s aft deck or beach BBQ, from Antarctica to Melanesia. However, today’s BBQ stood apart, from its succulent grilled lobster, to its inviting array of sides and salads, to its gorgeous tarts, fruit, and cheeses for dessert—not to mention the hot coffee, which came after the red, white, and rosé wines and the plain or sparkling water, all out of real cups and glasses no less. No matter that there was a hulking iguana in a tree right above one of the tables— that just added to the fun—all could agree that the midday meal we enjoyed exemplified a singularly French love of food and drink, properly presented and served with flair. And, despite a brief downpour, people did go in the water, did see the waves break over a fringing reef, and observed turtles and fish, all adding up to a delightful day. Friday, December 9 St. Lucia We docked at Soufrière, a pretty town squeezed in at the base of a jumble of sharp, volcanic peaks, their silhouettes softened by dense vegetation. The tallest and most famous, the side- by-side Pitons, one grand and one petit, jut up to one side angled straight from the depths of the water below.
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