Friuli Venezia Giulia BY BOAT Sailing itineraries to discover a unique land. View from the sea

Friuli Venezia Giulia n Friuli Venezia Giulia the light most interesting archaeological sites; I reflected on the water has a sparkle further to the east, your eye will meet all of its own. A sparkle which takes elegant castles overlooking the sea. you along the golden sands of Lignano You will be enchanted by ’s and Grado, as well as onto the white cliffs central European facade, and live overhanging the sea as we sail towards moments of well-being and entertainment Trieste, in the last strip of land to the in Grado and Lignano. Cooking offers east of . fragrances and flavours which you will Nature expresses itself with unique not find anywhere else: dishes from the fascination in the lagoons of Marano and sea - and not only - are the fruit of a Grado, where life still carries the traces very special microcosm of tradition and of ancient living, articulated culture, as are the folklore and festivals. by fishermen’s rites. Trieste also holds the Barcolana, the So too in the picturesque town of most crowded international regatta in Muggia, which is the only Istrian town the Mediterranean. left in Italy. Then there are the nature The marinas and the many services reserves overlooking the waters, magical offered to travellers will only make this places where only the rustle of the reeds discovery more pleasant. can be heard as they are caressed by the wind alongside the songs of birds. Welcome to Friuli Venezia Giulia: Subsequently we come to the ancient A land - and a sea - where you will Roman routes to , one of Italy’s be guests of a unique people!

3 Sweet sailing

One coastline, many stories. One land, many colours. Showing this very particular shading to those coming from the sea and creating even more precious pearls which are just waiting to be discovered - why not do it through these seven suggested itineraries? Buon viaggio!

Monfalcone

Aquileia Marano Duino Sistiana

Grignano Aprilia Lignano Marittima

Grado

Trieste

4 Muggia 5 The Route

• Tagliamento River Mouth • From Litoranea • • Veneta to Lignano • Aprilia Marittima Marked by relaxation and entertainment

p until the end of the last - that have been proud to fly the avenues, the fruit of remarkable golf course, which is open all year U century, there were only sand environmental blue flag for years. spiral urban architecture, designed round, and which offers one of the dunes, pinewoods, beds of reeds This coastline which from the by the architect Marcello D’Olivo. most beautiful routes overlooking and sandy isles here. Now besides Tagliamento river mouth projects Here, it is the greenery that speaks, the sea. Then for bicycle lovers the natural aspects that continue to out to the east becoming a point as well as every type of comfort. we have a number of different be respected and enchanting - protecting Aprilia Marittima and We then have Lignano Riviera, the itineraries that go deep into the there is a new type of buzzing life. the Marano Lagoon, in fact most relaxing area immersed in fragrant pinewoods and offer You can feel it immediately, in the encloses three resorts, which rich vegetation that expresses itself enchanting glimpses of the lagoon air, in something, that makes the accommodate thousands of boat through the rustling leaves in the or lead you to the Tagliamento atmosphere electric and almost to moorings. Lignano Sabbiadoro is the maritime pinewoods. River where you could admire your amazement, hidden corners historical centre, with a wealth of the red sunsets. are discovered where the most restaurants, open-air bars and Lignano invites you. important thing is the peace and shops. It can also boast boutiques, It invites you to take care of your Lignano is a large “park” tranquillity. An oasis where amusement arcades, pubs and body, to restore it with open-air overlooking the sea, which relaxation can be married to every discotheques. activities by offering a wide range expresses itself through many type of entertainment: this is the It is overseen by the elegant of opportunities. You can do sport different parks where you can essence of Lignano, which was “Terrazza a mare” where you can on the beach thanks to sports literally “project yourself” into created at the beginning of the take a walk in an atmosphere centres with excellent instructors other worlds. Such as the “Parco 1900s as a special holiday area. suspended over the blue sea. for swimming, sailing, windsurf Zoo” - a Green Promontory, a Eight kilometres of fine and golden Lignano Pineta is caressed by the and kite surf. You could go horse zoological garden with more than sandy beach and a tranquil sea - shade offered by the gardens and riding: do not miss the chance 1500 animals from 250 different half way between and Trieste crossed over by the elegant to take a morning ride along the species coming from all over the deserted shores. You could take world. Alternatively, Aquasplash, part in a fun game of beach volley. one of the first Italian water parks You could even discover yourself to with breakneck slides and large be a golf enthusiast on the 18-hole swimming pools.

6 7 Or Gulliverland, an amusement Not to be missed To taste A regenerating stopover park for all ages. Lignano is a host of events. Lignano is a young resort being less Deep within a centuries-old Perhaps you would like Strabilia Beginning with the arena, the than a century old. However, it is pinewood in the Riviera resort, a super amusement park with centrepiece of summer concerts supported by Marano, where the you can find the Lignano Thermal sparkling lights and a sought-after with leading artists. Then there day-to-day life has always been Spas, which are housed within destination for all those looking for are the special events, such as articulated by fishing and maritime a modern and elegant building, strong emotions. There is only one the International Sculpture cuisine. From Marano it inherited where you can benefit from both problem which you may come up Symposium that takes place in May the “brodetto” a dish where the fish traditional and innovative services. against in the “Gommosi” located and where the public can have the has its bones removed and is then As well as being cosseted in the in the Parco Junior - and that is chance to help the artists with their sieved - as opposed to other areas beauty centre. trying to drag your children away… chisels and blocks of stone. of Italy where the fish is left in The sculptures created during the slices. In days gone by, when symposium are on show in the resources were low, this operation “Parco del Mare” alongside those allowed even “pesce povero” (poor sculpted by Luciano Ceschia and man’s fish) to be used, this was full Simon Benetton. At the end of of bones but also full of flavour. October on the other hand, there The brodetto should be served with is “Nautilia” which takes place bread croutons. There are many in Aprilia Marittima, a nautical restaurants where it is possible to exhibition of second-hand boats moor your boat and where you can - and the only one in Italy where find these seafood specialities. they can be seen on dry land - with numerous exhibitors and international visitors taking part. Tourist ports

Did you know? 1 Porto Turistico Marina Uno 2 Marina Punta Verde The writer and Nobel Prize Winner 3 Darsena Porto Vecchio for Literature, Hemingway, used to come to Lignano. In fact, an 4 Marina Punta Faro important literary prize is 5 Marina Punta Gabbiani dedicated to him as well as a 6 Darsena Aprilia Marittima shady park of scented maritime 7 Marina Capo Nord pine trees, where you can find various games for an invigorating run. Within this resort, a certain preference for narrative has remained with the review “a meeting with the author and wine” 7 6 3 4 organised in Lignano Pineta every 5 Thursday from mid-June to the beginning of September with all the latest writers taking part. 2 Zoo 8 1 Acquasplash and Gulliverlandia 9 Golf Course From the lagoon The Route • Punta Faro (Lignano) • Regional Stella River Mouth Nature Reserve to Marano • Regional Valle Canal Novo Nature Reserve An oasis of peace, articulated • Marano Lagunare by the rhythms of fishing

here it is, down there, 1800s, it was surrounded by the the lagoon; on this moor, which T can’t you see its bell-tower city wall and in the 1500s not was one of the poorest in Friuli, standing out? “Ages-old” the even the Turks were able to get it was always treated with the people here describe it, more through. The Venetian Republic greatest respect, even when its to underline its importance than who governed this land from the fish was the main source of to give a precise age. Sailing in 1400s until the end of the sustenance. from far away, you can see it 1700s tried to hold on to it. Today, whilst the fishing boats peeping out in this raised place, The local people are still grateful: venture out into the sea, it which can be seen as an the Serenissima respected local heralds a more substantial booty; independent world. autonomy and the people from and young people continue to Beginning with its secluded Marano are still proud of the fact be grateful to their elders. position, between the last point that they are the only Friulian Because the lagoon has rewarded of the Lignano coast and Grado’s town where the Venetian dialect this attention becoming Lagoon, protected from the open is still spoken. beautiful, so beautiful in fact sea by a series of small islands However, it is not only with that it is protected by two such as Martignano and linguistic and cultural links that regional natural parks. Sant’Andrea, also known as Shell Venice has left its mark - it has Together with the lagoon in If you happen to come across Island. Up until the end of the also left Marano its strong Grado, its lagoon is the most a “dama” or “lady”, be careful architectural imprint. northern of all the Mediterranean. not to loose your compass: for The old town is a continual Most of its canals are natural; you are in front of a mooring post succession of “calli”, narrow man has only put the mooring made up of five posts indicating alleys, and squares onto which posts that mark out the way. a new canal. houses were built, developing into meeting places and outdoor The regional Stella River mouth work places. nature reserve opens into the The buildings are decorated with lagoon here and cannot be nick-knacks which each tell an reached by land. Water is the ancient tale: basso-rilievo, only way to get to the Stella exposed stone, coats of arms. River’s delta, where you can The life of the people of Marano go upstream to Precenicco has always been articulated by and Palazzolo.

10 11 Here a spectacle of rare beauty To taste Did you know? opens up before your very eyes This is a land, which lives - a village of “casoni” or on fishing. Over the centuries Even the lagoon has its main fishermen’s cottages. These are therefore, great skill has been “road” - it is the “Litorana buildings made of reeds and wood, achieved in cooking entire menus Veneta”, the commercial channel guarding a fireplace in the centre based on fish. However, there that unites Venice with the and furnished with the minimum is a special dish that you should Isonzo River for more than one to safeguard survival. You will try called “el bisato in spéo”, hundred kilometres. On the notice that these huts all look to spit-roasted eel. The best time to junctions, there are mooring the west - which is the side that taste it is over Easter (when the posts with real road signs. is less exposed to the bora and sea eel comes up the river) and Turning off from the main “road”, northern winds. A wooden jetty in autumn (when it returns back we enter the tangle of canals nowadays allows you to dock there. to the sea). where only the experts know However, throughout the year how to find their way around. (except August) it really is a delicious dish, which foresees is the Valle Canal Novo Regional a long cooking period. nature Reserve, made from a Leaving the boat in a marina, you Unlike other areas, here the former fishing valley. The visiting could visit the area with special eel is cut into pieces, skewered centre’s buildings have been tourist boats. In this way you will together with pieces of bread created by maintaining the enter an exceptional microcosm, and laurel leaves onto wooden traditional typology of the local a real paradise for nature lovers, skewers (the best would be casoni. They are used as service amongst beds of reeds which run tamarisk or hazel wood). buildings, restaurants, as well alongside the river bed, here you as educational and environmental can find marsh falcons, royal A training school observation points. swans, as well as red, grey and for birdwatchers Moreover, thanks to the white herons. Another suspended backdrop, aquarium, you can get to know From one of the most evocative just a short distance from the numerous organisms that branches of the delta, there is a Not to be missed Marano’s residential centre populate the lagoon environment. motorboat route often taken by A procession of boats on the tourists looking to discover the lagoon’s waters, keeping a lagoon entering the last river 14th century ritual alive. mouth. On June 15th (or the Sunday immediately after) every year, the San Vito procession takes place in San Vito (San Vio), which began in order to ward Tourist ports off the dangers which the 1 2 fishermen have to face and to 1 Marina Stella commemorate those who have lost their lives in the sea. 2 Porto Maran Getting onto a boat and taking part in the procession is a highly emotional experience.

12 13 Punta Faro From Grado The Route • Grado Lagoon • Island of Grado to Aquileia • Aquileia The natural backdrops of your dreams beating with a long history

maze of small islands reveals into a universe where nature has perhaps was inspired by Syriac of these shores, and it was a A its grace. Breathe in the created an unpublished language, models and is defined as a “very favourite holiday destination of the atmosphere of these places through a tightly woven maze of precious incunabula of early Hapsburg aristocracy, who came modelled by the tides, where canals and “rios”, which lap over Christian architecture”. for the swimming and the valuable every day and at every hour, the small islands with their thriving Crossing the “campielli” (small marine spas up until the end colours invent new shades and vegetation. Then we discover that Venetian square) and walking of the 1800s. the birds outline concerts that history also plays a leading role through the narrow alleys of the have never been heard before, here. The ancient Romans and old town, overlooked by the old this is a unique experience which Venetians have left invaluable fishermen’s houses, which are Did you know? traces here. Moreover, there are closely knit one with the other, religious routes that have very it will be easy to imagine them At the beginning of the 1200s, ancient origins, such as the Marian populated by merchants, just like the people from Grado made a sanctuary of the Isola di Barbana, those who at one time arrived in votive offering to the Madonna which is one of the busiest in Italy. the port on large sailing ships di Barbana in order that she The ideal way to discover these laden with amphora. put an end to the terrible lands is to abandon yourself to The beaches, on the other hand, plague, which had hit the town. a “slow wandering without any are furnished as an elegant sitting Their prayers were answered particular destination” suggests room with quality services, and and since that day, every first writer Claudio Magris. attention being paid to comfort Sunday in July the fascinating and the safety of young children, “Perdòn di Barbana” festival is Grado is an island, which is linked who can take long swims in the celebrated. to the mainland by a very thin strip low, clean and ever-calm waters. An evocative procession of of land, secluded and narrow Specially equipped babysitting boats, decorated with flowers, around its old Venetian style town and play areas are also on hand. garlands and flags reaches the centre, which holds authentic The writer, Ippolito Nievo, was Marian Sanctuary of the Isola jewels such as the early Christian one of the first frequent visitors di Barbana to absolve the should be tasted wholeheartedly. cathedral made even more precious town’s ancient votive. Getting closer to the Lagoon in by the elegant geometries of floor Following a Mass, the Grado, known as the golden Isle, mosaics and the octagonal shaped procession returns to Grado whose praises were sung by the baptistery. In addition, the Santa amongst song, prayer and a poet, Biagio Marin, means entering Maria delle Grazie Basilica, which festive tolling of the bells.

14 15 Spas - that have been recently As Aquileia was called at the time Not to be missed At full sail renovated and equipped with of the Roman Empire: then it was The Ospiti d’Autore (distinguished The last week of June, the an area dedicated to medicinal a strategic point for trade with the guests) Festival dedicated to “Graisana” takes place on aesthetics, offer an articulate Danubian countries, nowadays it is master musicians the golden isle, an appointment programme from thalassic therapy the heritage of humanity protected as well as the Puppet Festival, dedicated to yachting with to the prevention of skin ageing. by UNESCO and one of the most one of the most important regattas open to national and important archaeological sites in European figure theatre international teams. In this Enchanting walks can be taken Italy. It should be discovered either references. LagunaMovies, an context is the “Regata de le from the lighthouse point, in the independently or by following a international film review with batele”, a rowing boat race using pursuit of spectacular sunsets, guided route, to taste the charm of shows and meetings on the the historic fishermen’s boats. until you reach the Pineta pinewood the Roman forum’s colonnade, the lagoon: everything, in Grado, The cherry on the cake is a rich district, where the patriarchal basilica, the Roman makes summer unique. cultural menu of food and wine close-knit shade makes your stay houses and remains of the river events. at the seaside more relaxing and port, where goods from all over enjoyable. Successively, between the Mediterranean came together. game of beach volley, basketball There is also the national Tourist ports Landing places and five-a-side football, windsurf, archaeological which holds sailing, water-skiing and canoeing - some of the most important Roman 1 Marina Sant’Andrea 1 Porto di Grado everyone can choose their own finds in northern Italy. (San Giorgio di Nogaro) località Mandracchio particular sport. Completing the 2 Marina San Giorgio Short stops offer is a round of 18-holes of golf, To taste (San Giorgio di Nogaro) on the very green fairways and It is well known that island folk 3 Marina di Aquileia sky-blue waters. On the other hand, are different, and follow their own you could take a trip along traditions. Well, this also happens 4 Darsena Navigare 2000 attractive cycle paths which land in the kitchen. Even with the “dish 5 Darsena San Marco in magical nature reserves. of dishes” from Grado the “boreto a 6 Porto San Vito la graisàna”. Those who think that it 7 Tenuta Primero The ancient Romans studied is a simple fish soup are mistaken everything in minute detail. as this is for all intents and Grado was to have been a marine purposes a second-course dish - suburb of Aquileia, fortified - cooked with turbot or with a mixture a castrum of which the only thing of fish and matched with white 2 remaining today are the impressive polenta. It is one of the few kinds foundations - where the largest of bouillabaisse, if not the only one 1 ships were to have unloaded their where tomato is not used. 3 goods onto smaller boats: otherwise The use of black pepper, which they wouldn’t have been able to get was once very precious, brings around the tightly knit islands in us back to the ancient links with the lagoon and go upstream via Byzantium or to the contraband the Natissa river to Aquileia. with the pirates who horded it from Nevertheless, once they arrived Venetian galleys… here, they would have discovered the secrets of the second Rome. 4 7 5 6 Grado Health Spas 16 1 17 Golf Course From the Valle The Route • Valle Cavanata nature reserve • Isonzo River mouth nature reserve Cavanata to Monfalcone • Monfalcone From the bird watching realm to the dynamic reality of shipbuilding

t a certain point the coast This area of international value Moving onto the Isonzo River you can even go on horseback A wedges to the north, almost was used in the past as a fishing mouth nature reserve, opening onto and take an excursion in a boat. as if it wants to go to land and valley and is a true paradise for breathtaking panoramas over the A few herds of Camargue horses here we find Monfalcone. birdwatching, between the barene . By sea - via the also live here. Observe the Already from afar, accompanied and little beaches you can find so-called “Litoranea Veneta” animals in buildings that have by the flight of seagulls, you will numerous species of aquatic (Venetian coast) to go upstream been harmoniously built to fit into notice the cranes of the shipyard birds, which find optimum to a part of the Isonzo River and their natural surroundings, and from which large and prestigious conditions here for stopovers berth in the area known as “Il taste authentic moments of peace cruise ships are launched. and nesting. Caneo”, taking care of the low and tranquillity. Within this area, Special itineraries will enable draught - or again thanks to the you can taste typical dishes and To introduce this strip of throbbing you to view them in their natural cycle paths, admire the spend a night in the spacious life, almost as a contrast, are habitat. Communicating with landscapes which are literally and welcoming tourist shelter. stretches of coastline where nature the open sea, via adjustable suspended in time, you will land In addition, in the summer you reigns undisputed, accommodating sluices, is a closely woven can take part in musical and nature reserves of enchanting network of canals and waterways, artistic events. beauty. Beginning with the Valle with woods and clearings running Cavanata, situated on the eastern along them in which many Monfalcone is not only an most part of the Grado lagoon and species of animals live. important industrial district; within reach from the town, via a the town also reveals an unseen spectacular cycle path. historical façade, as in the stronghold of its medieval origins and the town’s symbolic in the reserve’s visitor’s centre. monument. Within it is the Turning into a pathway on the Palaeontological Museum, with gangway, you will only hear finds that illustrate the town’s birdsong and the rustling of geological history from more than the reeds, caressed by the wind. 500 million years ago. In a place However, in this magical place, of ancient cultural practices, the outlined with fresh water old Marcelliana Church stands, marshland, beds of reeds, humid having been reshaped on many prairies and fluvial flood plains, occasions over the centuries.

18 19 Around the town the “Parco From the imposing stairway The charm of a special Not to be missed tematico della Grande Guerra” created in white Karst stone, you kind of environment Between the end of June and (Great War Theme Park) is can undertake the journey back The Karst is a landscape that the middle of July, “Onde particularly moving where you can in time. The top of the Sacrarium is particular to itself, harsh and Mediterranee” (Mediterranean immerge yourself in the period is connected to an observatory to fascinating, mysterious and waves) takes place in Monfalcone, between 1915 and 1918 and walk enable you to identify the many resolute, where valleys are dotted an interesting cultural review along the trenches and walkways. Great War Battle Grounds. with smoke tree bushes and centred on the regions overlooking Beginning from the sacrarium in Then, in Fogliano Redipuglia thorny shrubs such as juniper. the magnum sea. It is a Redipuglia, which with its one there is an Austro-Hungarian At the centre of this particular confrontation to the sound of hundred thousand fallen soldiers cemetery and on the Sant’Elia setting, not far from Monfalcone, music, cinema, theatre and art. is the biggest First World War hill we can find the “Parco della we can find the Doberdò and memorial in Europe. Rimembranza” (Park of Pietrorossa Lakes nature reserve, Remembrance), an avenue of whose basins were formed thanks steps and memorial stones to singular geological Did you know? containing reproductions of relics phenomenon. and epigraphs from the Cemetary The Doberdò basin is one of Between the Valle Cavanata for the Thirty thousand warriors the few examples of a Karst and the Isonzo River mouth, who once occupied this area. lake in Europe. in Fossalon di Grado, is a product of excellence - the white To taste asparagus. The turion is made It is not only the fish that enriches Tourist ports to grow completely underground Friuli Venezia Giulia’s cuisine, but and harvesting takes place in also the shellfish and molluscs. the months of April and May. Moreover, amongst the latter an 1 Marina Hannibal During this period, a number important position is held by 2 Nautec Mare of exhibitions and wine and cuttlefish, which come up to the 3 Marina Lepanto food reviews are organised coast in springtime - after the such as “Asparagi in Laguna” fishermen have captured them 4 Ocean Marine (Asparagus in the lagoon). with gill nets and creels, they are This “king of garden taken to market whilst still alive. vegetables” as it is described, The best season to taste them is proposed alongside fish and continues well into the summer. other typical regional products, Alongside the cuttlefish, soups and such as San Daniele ham. salads are prepared and pastas and A tasting of it should not be risottos are made with the sepia. missed together with the great A traditional recipe is the “seppie white wines from Friuli in umido” (stewed cuttlefish). 3 Venezia Giulia. 2 4 1

20 21 Great War Theme Park The Route

• Risorgive del Timavo From Duino to Sistiana • Villaggio del Pescatore • Duino Along the coast of white cliffs, surrounded • Sentiero Rilke by small pearls and fishermen’s hamlets • Sistiana • Santa Croce

yths and ancient legends echo The White Lady, whose legend The United World College of the In the area, the Duino Cliff nature M persuasively in the land that indissolubly links to the remains Adriatic has its headquarters in reserve has been set up, with a looks at the sea from above. of the ancient manor house, which the former guest quarters, with host of tracks that witness the A land that has inspired poets, is dedicated to the cult of the Sun students coming from all over the passage of the central European musicians and writers. god, is not the only beauty to be world. The Rilke footpath begins climate to the middle European Here, where the White Lady speaks found in Duino. Up there, is a close to the manor house - it is climate, amongst black pine trees, to you about her wicked husband lookout over one of the most an easy two-kilometre route that Holm oaks and hornbeams. who threw her from the wall of an enchanting stretches of coastline in will plunge you into a unique and There are also numerous animal ancient castle. However, the sky all of the high Adriatic., castled on spectacular display of nature. species, such as the peregrine took pity on her, by giving her a a spur of rock which descends in a Amongst the fragrances of falcon. The pathway takes you body of rock before she smashed sheer drop to the sea, in fact, Duino Mediterranean flora, your glance down as far as Sistiana where there against the cliffs. Her spirit is still Castle appears in all its beauty, a will be drawn to the high white is a tranquil bay whose little port is there in a rock overhanging the bay, composite and massive building, cliffs moving downwards to the enlivened at night by the musical close to the remains of the old over which its sixteenth century blue of the sea. The name is and entertainment interludes. manor house in Duino. On certain tower stands out resting on a thanks to the poet Rainer Maria Nearby, are the remains of a roman nights, she comes to life and two-thousand year old foundation. Rilke, a guest at the castle in 1911 country house that was probably wanders without finding peace. In addition, it is around this tower, and 1912; it was here in fact that linked to the mining activities of A place like this could not but on the ruins of a Roman outpost, he gained inspiration for the verses the nearby Aurisina cave, famous stimulate your imagination. that the building of the current of his “Elegie Duinesi”. for the quality of its stone and its Here where the Karst highlands castle were built, not far from the two thousand year old activity. meet the sea, and for this encounter old one. It is still inhabited by In the direction of Grignano, bays makes itself all the more beautiful, the Torre e Tasso (Thurn und Taxis) and well cared for seaside resorts clothing itself with high and white princes who have maintained the follow one another along the coast. cliffs. Before arriving in Duino distinguished appearance of the In Canovella there is an ample free however, you will pass through building, which over time has beach as well as a little port, so too other magical places. Such as the hosted such illustrious people as Santa Croce where you can come “Villaggio del Pescatore” Mark Twain, Gabriele D’Annunzio, across fishermen intent on (Fisherman’s village), a little marine as well as the musicians Liszt and repairing their nets. hamlet where it is not unheard of Strauss. Here the numerous Then, gushing onto the Filtri beach to catch sight of anchored fishing furnished rooms can be visited are fresh water springs, which are boats, with their crew cleaning fish together with the tower, the chapel ideal for a natural whirlpool bath. or repairing their nets. and the park.

22 23 The Costa dei barbari (Barbari hidden within the depths of the fillets and fried sardoni, you are Coast), enchanting and wild and earth for dozens of kilometres, spoilt for choice. The fish here is instead has become a nudist coming to the surface with also bred on fish farms. paradise. unseen beauty. Like the mussels, known as pedoci: “a la scotadeo” which, according to ancient tradition are Did you know? sautéed in a frying pan until they open. The “co’l tazà” variant is also delicious, and foresees the In a former cave close to the addition of a glass of dry white “Villaggio del Pescatore” wine. (Fishing Village) there was an unexpected presence for almost 80 million years. A special skeleton. That of Antonio, the most complete and ancient hadrosaur ever to come to life in Europe. It’s about a dinosaur In San Giovanni, in the with a flattened muzzle and a municipality of Duino Aurisina, beak similar to a duck, that is about two kilometres from its a recent discovery of Landing places managed by sailing and sporting associations outlet to the sea, you can admire extraordinary importance for three very clear resurgent rivers. worldwide palaeontology. Nearby you come to the gothic 1 Porticciolo del Villaggio del Pescatore Imagine that when he was San Giovanni in Tuba church, 2 alive, Antonio weighted about Porticciolo di Duino which conserves the mosaic 700 kilos. His skeleton is now 3 Porticciolo di Sistiana flooring from the early Christian held in the Natural History basilica, as evidence of the 4 Porticciolo di Santa Croce Museum in Trieste, where there ancient cults who worshiped here. Short stops in free spaces are also the remains - from the Such as ceremonies for the Karst caves which are full of enigmatic god Mitra, which took them - of the largest cave bear place in a cave and is the only ever to have lived Mitreo to have taken place in a natural cave in Europe. 1 Then there are memorial stones Not to be missed or historical memories that 2 Such an enchanting place that commemorate cults devoted to 3 it could even capture Virgil’s Diomedes, Saturn and Hercules imagination, as he cites it in his as well as the god Timavo. Aeneid. A place that has always 4 given rise to strong emotions over To taste the centuries. The holder of all In between cuttlefish salads, pasta this charm is the shortest river with “sardoni” (as the anchovies in Italy: the Timavo, which runs are called here), grilled sea-bass

24 25 The Route From Miramare • Grignano • Castello e Parco di Miramare (the and park) to Trieste • Trieste Discovering Central Europe’s marine heart

n elegant “outpost” for Here you cross a set of steps and After Miramare, the coast opens the sea actually seems to enter A the town of Trieste, which enter the enchanting Miramare up completely and is all for their the built-up areas; a sea in which announces the town’s beauty. Park, where plants and trees from lady: Trieste, the Central European elegant Hapsburg buildings almost Moreover, in the same way, all over the world have been “marine” queen, which is foretold mirror themselves. You are in the protecting itself from the sea planted. by the spirit of its people. People city of literature, of many religious You then come to the castle, which cults, cafés, of art and science. was the backdrop of the love story A city that holds the charming between Charlotte of Belgium and piazza dell’Unità d’Italia, one of the the Archduke Maximillian of most beautiful and largest squares Hapsburg, which was interrupted in the world overlooking the sea. by the nobleman’s tragic death Trieste with its many faces - you in . Inside, you will admire can lose yourself amongst the the private apartments, the guest rooms, the rich library and the magnificent throne room with who welcome every opportunity to portraits of the Hapsburg family. live the sea, and who populate the At the foot of the headland, is Riviera - with its beaches Miramare’s natural marina Reserve, and kiosks - sunbathing, diving which was the first marine park to into the sea or taking a simple be instituted in Italy, and where walk. Just after Barcola, up on you can go deep-sea diving and high towards the Karst headland, take guided tours of seawatching. you will notice a large lighthouse: antique shops in the little side In the summer time, the reserve this is the “Faro della Vittoria” alleys in the “città vecia” and in organises excursions into the gulf (Victory Lighthouse), which the jewish ghetto on the streets with its candid grace is the Castello so that you can get to know the besides illuminating the gulf and of borgo teresiano; taste the best di Maramare an eclectic building “lampara” fishing by lamplight. aiding the navigators, is also a coffee mixes or delicious presnitz built in the middle of the 1800s. commemorative memorial in the cake shops where James In order to reach it you can moor dedicated to the sailors who lost Joyce used to go, or recognise your boat - when the weather their lives in the First World War. the footpaths and atmospheres permits it - on the external jetty Successively we arrive in the heart described by Italo Svevo and of the little port of Grignano. of the city - yes, because in Trieste Umberto Saba.

26 27 Not to be missed weren’t any refrigerators or freezers. Did you know? Every year, on the second Sunday At “Ferragosto” the mid-summer of October the Barcolana takes holiday, the festival “Sardon Day” If you hear a man from Trieste place in the gulf of Trieste, an is celebrated in the Barcola Riviera, say that he is going to the international regatta, which over it is an event devoted entirely to “bagno”, don’t think him to be the years has become the the “pesce azzuro” so loved by of little taste. Going the “bagno” the people of Trieste. in Trieste is like saying going to the sea. In addition, in the city, View of the sea it is the only “bagno” - that is The Trieste Golf Club offers an the only bathing establishment - competition with the largest 18-hole course set at an altitude in Europe with separate areas number of participants in the of 350 metres between the rugged for men and women. We are Mediterranean. The scene that and characteristic Karst hills on talking about the Lanterna, also it offers is an incredible palette one side and the sea on the other. known as the Pedocin, a historic of colour, with more than two From here, you can admire the bathing establishment that was thousand boats colouring the sea. splendid views over the Gulf of created at the time of Maria Trieste. Teresa d’Austria and together To taste with Ausonia, is positioned in Anchovies are the most common the centre of the city. fish in the Gulf of Trieste. Here Landing places managed by sailing and sporting they are known as “sardoni” and Tourist ports associations Then you could discover the are either fried, breaded or “in synagogue, the Greek-Orthodox savor” that is fried and marinated 1 Marina San Giusto 1 Porticciolo di Grignano and Serb-Orthodox churches, the with vinegar and onion. This recipe 2 Porticciolo Cedas Evangelical Lutheran Church as has ancient origins - the savor 3 well as the Swiss and Waldensian from Trieste was created from the Porticciolo di Barcola ones. Then on to the Basilica and necessity to preserve the enormous 4 Trieste - Molo Pescheria (the pescheria wharf) - leaving due space San Giusto Castle, which can be quantities of “pesce azzuro” for the ferry boat (managed by the Trieste harbour office) found on a hill that boasts an (mackeral, sardines and anchovies) 5 Trieste: by the sailing clubs along the Rive (the seafront) incomparable view over the gulf. fished in the gulf, when there Short stops in free spaces

1 2 Riviera Barcola 3 4 1 5

28 29 Golf Course The Route From Trieste • Trieste • Muggia to Muggia • San Bartolomeo • Val Rosandra Frontier waters together with enchanting and rugged nature

n the last strip of Italy, the Muggia’s old town, Muggia The little marina in San O coast seems to fold in on Vecchia, with its romanic basilica Bartolomeo is very charming. itself. Here the Bay of Muggia (Santa Maria dell’Assunta, 9th Mooring your boat, by taxi you opens up and is the only Istrian century), the only evidence, apart could reach Val Rosandra, which town that has remained under Italy. from the ruins of the old walls, is of a very high naturalistic value Arriving in the picturesque dock, of its Roman and medieval past. and which extends in a valley it seems like you are almost going From here, you can enjoy a beside Muggia. For trekking into the “calli” narrow streets and magnificent view over the Gulf of lovers, there is an 18 kilometre Looking out to sea, the white little squares. Moreover, you will Trieste. The Castle in Muggia, on route that goes from the Istria- stones of Istria and its coloured immediately be immerged in an the other hand, dates back to the venetian town (p32 arriving in the houses create a harmonious whole enchanting atmosphere that is 1300s, even though it has been Premuda Refuge, at the gates of alongside the verdant Karst hills. clearly built in the Venetian mould. reshaped over the centuries. the valley. Leaving from piazza Framing it are seven kilometres Not only the architecture but the Once it crowned the circle Marconi, it goes up to the hamlet of coastline and a crown of hills, dialect, the customs and the food of walls around the town. which panoramically dominate the and wine traditions too, an intense The curious thing is that the vast area, both on the Italian and past shared with the Serenissima inhabitants of Muggia have Did you know? on the Slovenian side. filters through. little by little used its original Before the year 1000, the marina sandstone blocks of stone in Muggia’s Town hall is developed in a valley in a little order to build their own houses. decorated with a lion that town that was called Borgolauro Still today, a special kind of air is a clear reminder of the - from this new hamlet, in the is breathed in this part of the Serenissima. It does, however, 1200s, the town of Muggia world, walking in the have a peculiarity: it is came about. From this time the characteristic “calli” narrow clutching a closed book, to cathedral and town hall remain, streets and in the splendid hide the word pax, which in being rebuilt in the 1900s. Marconi Square which is the these lands was always a risk. But up there, high on the throbbing heart of the town, The Hapsburgs were not able headland overlooking the port, or stopping in the Mandracchio to conquer Muggia and its one speaks of a more ancient to watch the fishermen working. history is shared between history - there is even evidence Moreover, in the surrounding Istria and Venice and not of the proto-historic fortified areas, there are the comfortable with imperial Trieste. hamlets of Santa Barbara and and shady bathing establishments.

30 31 of Santa Barbara coming out on imposing faces, which are the malvasia istriano. They are a special pathway onto the Via goal of many sportsmen and served either in the container Alpina circuit, touching San climbers. Its practice rock wall they are cooked in or in Dorligo della Valle and then onto is famous with its climbing individual earthenware bowls, the refuge. courses of different levels of together with slices of polenta Here you will discover a landscape difficulty. or toasted homemade bread. and animal life that is the Numerous itineraries lead expression of a contact area excursionists to discover A Regatta without frontiers between the alpine territory and the caves with their ancient between Italy and Slovenia the sea, and there is even a inscriptions, ruins of ancient Every year in June, a large event Roman aqueduct built to supply castles and walled hamlets, embellishes Muggia’s coastline Tergeste water to ancient Trieste. running alongside streams - a sailing regatta Muggia- and places where you can enjoy Portorose-Muggia -Three Gulf an extraordinary view of the Gulf international - with an outline The Val Rosandra was created of Trieste. of entertainment and wine and thanks to the erosion Moreover, on the former railway food products, as well as music phenomenon provoked by the track there is now a cycle and and folklore. Rosandra torrent, a fascinating pedestrian path. waterway that flows in a particularly fast-flowing course. Not to be missed Landing places managed by sailing and sporting It advances quickly along steep An explosion of colours and Tourist ports associations slopes forming small cascades, happiness and a very warm transparent water wells and involvement. 1 Porto San Rocco 1 Porticciolo di Muggia gentle flow. There is even a The Carnival of Muggia, 2 San Bartolomeo 36-metre waterfall. The valley which in local dialect is called expresses itself with white and Carneval mujesan, is one of Short stops in free spaces the oldest in Italy - it was first documented in the 1400s. The event involves the entire population with the decoration of allegorical floats and the creation of the sumptuous costumes for the procession.

To taste In Muggia dishes are prepared which can be linked back to Istrian and sometimes Dalmation, Venetian and Triestan traditions. Amongst these, seafood cookery occupies the first place. Try the “scampi a la busara”, cooked with tomato and

1 1 32 San Bartolomeo 2 33 Muggia Vecchia The region’s marinas

Darsena di Aprilia Marittima Darsena San Marco Marina Hannibal Marina Punta Faro Via del Coregolo, 3 Loc. Testata Mosconi Via Bagni Nuova, 41 Località Punta Faro 33050 Aprilia Marittima (UD) 34073 Grado (GO) 34074 Monfalcone (GO) 33054 Lignano Sabbiadoro (UD) Tel. +39 0431 53123 Tel. +39 0431 81548 Tel. +39 0481 411541 Tel. +39 0431 70315 Fax +39 0431 53458 Fax +39 0431 877774 Fax +39 0481 40446 Fax +39 0431 70573 [email protected] www.darsenasanmarco.it [email protected] [email protected] www.cvam.it [email protected] www.marinahannibal.com www.marinapuntafaro.it VHF: 9 VHF: 9

Darsena Navigare 2000 Marina Capo Nord Marina Lepanto Marina Punta Gabbiani Isola della Schiusa Via Capo Nord, 1 Via Consiglio d'Europa, 38 Aprilia Marittima Riva Garibaldi 33050 Aprilia Marittima (UD) 34074 Monfalcone (GO) Strada Statale Ufficio: Viale Italia, 5 Tel. +39 0431 53503 Tel. +39 0481 45555 Latisana - Lignano 34073 Grado (GO) Fax +39 0431 53524 Fax +39 0481 44082 33050 Aprilia Marittima (UD) Tel. e Fax +39 0431 80183 [email protected] [email protected] Tel. +39 0431 528000 Tel. +39 0431 6696797 www.marinacaponord.it [email protected] Fax +39 0431 528300 [email protected] VHF: 9 www.marinalepanto.it [email protected] [email protected] www.puntagabbiani.it www.hotelsanremogrado.it

Darsena Porto Vecchio Marina di Aquileia Marina Planais Marina Punta Verde Viale Italia, 50 Località Cà Ara, 1 Viale E. Fermi, 47 Via G. Scerbanenco, 17/1 33054 33051 Aquileia (UD) 33058 33054 Lignano Sabbiadoro Lignano Sabbiadoro (UD) Tel. +39 0431 91041 S. Giorgio di Nogaro (UD) Località Riviera (UD) Tel. +39 0431 724033 Fax +39 0431 919241 Tel. +39 0431 624983 Tel. +39 0431 427131 Fax +39 0431 721887 [email protected] Fax +39 0431 624912 Fax +39 0431 427290 [email protected] www.marinadiaquileia.com [email protected] [email protected] www.lignanosabbiadoro.it/portovecchio www.marinaplanais.it www.marinapuntaverde.it VHF: 9 - 16

34 35 Marina San Giorgio Marina Stella Portomaran Porto Turistico Marina Uno Via E. Fermi, 21 Via del Fiume 9 Via Riva Canal de San Piero, 1 Viale Adriatico, 35 33058 33056 33050 Marano Lagunare (UD) 33054 Lignano Sabbiadoro S. Giorgio di Nogaro (UD) Palazzolo dello Stella (UD) Tel. +39 0431 67409 località Riviera (UD) Tel. +39 0431 65852 Tel. +39 0431 589288 Fax +39 0431 640642 Tel. +39 0431 428677 Fax. +39 0431 65854 Fax +39 0431 586151 [email protected] Fax +39 0431 428677 [email protected] [email protected] www.portomaran.it [email protected] www.cantierimarina.it www.marinastella.it www.marina-uno.com VHF: 10

Marina San Giusto Nautec Mare S.r.l. Porto San Rocco Tenuta Primero Molo Venezia, 1 34123 Trieste Via Consiglio d’Europa, 36 Strada per Lazzaretto, 2 Via Monfalcone, 14 Tel. +39 040 303036 34074 Monfalcone (GO) 34015 Muggia (TS) 34073 Grado (GO) Fax +39 040 3224933 Tel. +39 0481 790416 Tel. +39 040 273090 Tel. +39 0431 896880 Cell. attivo 24/24 Fax +39 0481 44042 Fax +39 040 9279203 Fax +39 0431 896881 +39 335 7350700 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.portosanrocco.it www.tenutaprimero.com www.marinasangiusto.it www.nautecmare.com VHF: 74 - 16 VHF: 12

petrol GFRP hull port management restaurant Marina Sant’Andrea Ocean Marine Porto San Vito station repair office Riva G. da Verrazzano, 1 workshop fire Via E. Fermi 33058 Via Consiglio D’Europa, 42 motors extinguisher rubbish collection pharmacy 34073 Grado (GO) S. Giorgio di Nogaro (UD) 34074 Monfalcone (GO) cranes electromechanical marine supermarket Tel. +39 0431 622162 Tel. +39 0481 413305 Tel. +39 0431 83600 repairs authority weather Tel. +39 0431 620461 Fax +39 0481 792193 Fax +39 0431 85926 chute deep-sea divers toilet facilities forecast mooring gardening Fax +39 0431 621504 [email protected] [email protected] service showers newspapers www.portosanvito.com quay [email protected] illumination electricity point car park www.marinasantandrea.it open water tap yacht club VHF: 9 hangar covered bar hangar slip-way tobacconist

wooden suitable for the hull repair physically challenged

www.terradimare.fvg.it

36 37 A.N.S.V. Compagnia del Vento Circolo Velico Duino San Giusto Yacht Club Società Nautica “Pietas Julia” The region’s Via Oberdan, 33 Duino, 62 Molo Venezia, 1 Sistiana Mare, 66/A 33170 Pordenone (PN) 34011 Duino (TS) 34123 Trieste (TS) 34011 Duino Aurisina (TS) sailing Tel. +39 0434 922363 Tel. +39 040 208189 Tel. +39 040 303036 Tel. +39 040 291213 Fax +39 0434 922363 Fax +39 040 208189 Fax +39 040 3224936 Fax +39 040 291213 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] clubs www.ansvcompagniadelvento.it www.circolovelicoduino.it www.marinasangiusto.it www.pietasjulia.it

Asso Vela Percoto Diporto Nautico Sistiana Sirena Club Nautico Triestino P.zza Vittoria, 1 Villa Caselli Via Ghirlandaio, 10/1 Viale Miramare, 32 Società Nautica San Giorgio 33050 Percoto (UD) 34138 Trieste (TS) 34135 Trieste (TS) Località Planais Cell. +39 340 2689490 Tel. +39 040 390737 Tel. +39 040 422696 33058 S. Giorgio di Nogaro (UD) Fax +39 0432 676545 Fax +39 040 390737 Fax +39 040 4529907 Tel. +39 0431 621444 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Fax +39 0431 621444 www.assovelapercoto.it www.dnsistiana.it [email protected] Sezione Nautica Aurisina www.snsg.it Associazione Velica Windsurfing Gruppo Vela LNI Grado Sorgenti C.T.L. A.C.E.G.A. Yacht Club “Adriaco” Marina Julia Riva Brioni, 10 Via Maestri del Lavoro, 8 Società Nautica Tavoloni Molo Sartorio, 1 C.P. 338 34073 Grado (GO) 34123 Trieste (TS) Via Consiglio d’Europa, 94 34123 Trieste (TS) 34074 Monfalcone (GO) Tel. +39 0431 81706 Tel. +39 040 7793467 34074 Monfalcone (GO) Tel. +39 040 304539 Spiaggia T. +39 0481 419898 Fax +39 0431 877767 Fax +39 040 7793237 Tel. +39 0481 45620 Fax +39 040 3224789 Segreteria [email protected] Fax +39 0481 45620 [email protected] Tel. e Fax +39 0481 778241 www.leganavale.it Società Canottieri “Ausonia” [email protected] - snt.splinder.com www.ycadriaco.it [email protected] www.inigrado.it Sez. Vela www.avwmj.it Darsena Torpediniere Società Triestina della Vela Yacht Club Cupa Gruppo Vela LNI Monfalcone 34073 Grado (GO) Pontile Istria, 8 Sistiana Mare Circolo della Vela Muggia Via dell’Agraria, 54 Tel. +39 0431 80305 34123 Trieste (TS) 34019 Duino Aurisina (TS) Riva Nazario Sauro, 5/D 34074 Monfalcone (GO) Cell. +39 339 1286473 Tel. +39 040 306327 Tel. +39 040 299858 34015 Muggia (TS) Tel. +39 0481 484564 Fax +39 0431 80305 Fax +39 040 313257 Fax +39 040 299858 Tel. +39 040 272416 Fax +39 0481 484564 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Fax +39 040 272416 www.lagraisana.it www.stv.ts.it www.yccupa.org [email protected] Gruppo Vela LNI Trieste www.cdvmuggia.org Molo F.lli Bandiera, 9 Società Nautica Amici del Mare Società Triestina Sport del Mare Yacht Club Lignano 34123 Trieste Via Nicolodi, 7 Molo F.lli Bandiera, 17/A Via Monte Ortigara, 3/M Circolo Velico Aprilia Marittima Tel. +39 040 301394 34136 Trieste (TS) 34123 Trieste (TS) Marina Punta Faro Via Coregono, 3 Fax +39 040 301394 Tel. +39 040 4528344 Tel. +39 040 303580 33054 Lignano Sabbiadoro (UD) 33053 Aprilia Marittima [email protected] Fax +39 040 4526077 Fax +39 040 3225433 Tel. +39 0431 73161 Latisana (UD) www.leganavale.it/trieste [email protected] Fax +39 0431 73161 Tel. +39 0431 53123 Società Nautica Grignano www.stsm.it [email protected] Fax +39 0431 53458 Nautilago Associazione Sportiva Riva Massimiliano e Carlotta, 2 www.yclignano.it [email protected] Via Tolmezzo, 58 34014 Grignano (TS) Società Vela Oscar Cosulich www.cvam.it 33010 Trasaghis (UD) Tel. +39 040 224622 Via dell’Agraria, 50 Yacht Club Hannibal Tel. +39 0432 979288 Fax +39 040 224622 34074 Monfalcone (GO) C.to Marina Hannibal Circolo Velico Derive Lignano Fax +39 0432 979288 [email protected] Tel. +39 0481 711325 Via Bagni Nuova, 41 Viale Adriatico, 35 [email protected] [email protected] Fax +39 0481 483015 34074 Monfalcone (GO) 33054 Lignano Sabbiadoro (UD) www.nautilago.com www.nauticagrignano.it [email protected] Tel. +39 0481 411541 www.derivelignano.com www.svoc.org Fax +39 0481 40446 [email protected] Polisportiva San Marco Società Nautica Laguna [email protected] Sez. Nautica Villaggio del Pescatore, 29/A Società Velica di Barcola Villaggio del Pescatore, 46 34011 Duino (TS) e Grignano Yacht Club Porto San Rocco 34013 Duino Aurisina (TS) Tel. +39 040 208020 Viale Miramare, 32 Strada per Lazzaretto, 2 Tel. +39 040 208432 Fax +39 040 208020 34134 Trieste (TS) 34015 Muggia (TS) Fax +39 040 208432 [email protected] Tel. +39 040 411664 Tel. +39 040 273090 Tel. +39 040 209855 Fax +39 040 413838 Fax +39 040 9279203 Fax +39 040 209855 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.svbg.it www.barcolana.it www.portosanrocco.it www.polisportivasanmarco.it 38 39 Informazioni Turistiche/Tourist Information Touristische Auskünfte/Informations Touristiques Turisticne informac´ije [email protected] Fax +390432504743 Tel. +390432295972 33100 Udine Maggio,7 Piazza 1° UDINE [email protected] Fax +390403478320 Tel. +39 0403478312 34121 Trieste Piazza Unitàd’Italia,4b TRIESTE [email protected] Fax +3904282972 Tel. +3904282135/2865 33018 Tarvisio Via Roma,12 TARVISIO [email protected] Fax +390434241608 Tel. +390434520381/520974 33170 Pordenone Via Damiani,2c PORDENONE info.@turismo.fvg.it Fax +390481539294 Tel. +390481535764 34170 Gorizia Corso Italia,9 GORIZIA [email protected] Fax +39043392104 Tel. +390433929290 33022 ArtaTerme Via UmbertoI,15 ARTA TERME [email protected] Fax Tel. 33081 Piancavallo Via Collalto,1 PIANCAVALLO [email protected] Fax Tel. 33054 LignanoSabbiadoro Via Latisana,42 LIGNANO [email protected] Fax Tel. 34073 Grado Viale Dante,72 GRADO [email protected] Fax Tel. 34077 RonchideiLegionari Via Aquileia,46 AEROPORTO RONCHIDEILEGIONARI Friuli Venezia Giulia Discovery Card +39 +39 +39 +39 +39 +39 +39 +39 0434 655354 0431 70449 0431 83509 0481 474728 0434 655191 0431 71821 0431 877111 0481 773224

DSF design / photo: Visual Art di Fabio Parenzan, Baronchelli