Tel London: +44 208 961 6770 www.parisrentalconnections.com Email: [email protected]
15/02/2019
Dauphine 59, rue Dauphine 75006 Buzzer: Pomeroy-Pennick 2nd floor left Telephone: 01.83.92.74.73
Metro: Odeon
17th Century Maison is ideally located in the Marais, an area considered as one of
St. Germain de Prés is an area of the 6th and 7th arrondissements located around the church of the former Benedictine Abbey of St. Germain de Prés, built in the 6th century.
The Benedictines of the abbey gave the neighbourhood its village atmosphere. The Abbey was fully enclosed by walls where the law of the church prevailed; laws where no one, not even the archbishop of Paris, could intervene except the Pope.
The district grew away from the monastery in the 17th Century, with the arrival of the Reine Margot, settling down in an enormous estate on the rue de Seine with gardens extending from the river all the way to the Invalides.
In the period of 1853-1870, St. Germain was drastically changed by the public works of George Haussmann, the Prefect of Paris, when he demolished its medieval streets and replaced them with the wide and modern day streets of boulevard Saint-Germain and the rue de Rennes.
In our century, St Germain remains synonymous with literary and artistic life. It is the home to many famous cafés such as Les Deux Magots and Le Café de Flore where writers came to work, philosophers came to ponder, and artists came for inspiration. The rue Dauphine, named in honour of the future Louis XIII, was opened in 1607 following the construction of the Pont Neuf (the “new” bridge).
St Germain represents the legendary Paris of cafés, jazz clubs, boutiques, bookstores, galleries, and museums. Literary and artistic walks abound in this neighbourhood associated with luminaries including Ernest Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, Jean-Paul Sartre, and Simone de Beauvoir.
St. Germain is a great area to explore, wander and feel the history of Paris around you!
Enjoy!
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Table of contents
Page 3. Top Tips
Page 4. Amenities, phone, TV and sofa bed instructions
Page 5. Bunk Beds & Shower
Page 6. High Speed Internet
Page 7. Appliances
Page 8. Heating, recycling and metro
Page 9. La Poste, Local Food & Wine, Museums and Monuments
Pages 10-12. Maps of the area
Pages 13-24. Restaurant suggestions
Pages 25-26. Walking Tours
Pages 27-28. French Vocabulary
Page 29. Useful numbers
Page 30-31. Our other Properties
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Top Tips.…
➢ CHECK-OUT On the day you check-out be sure to turn everything off and close all windows securely. Make sure you have packed all your belongings. Once ready to vacate leave the keys together inside the apartment then shut the door firmly behind you making sure it is closed properly.
➢ NOISE ALERT! Sound carries in Parisian flats. Please be respectful and don’t play the TV or music loudly. Please don’t use the washing machine, dryer or dishwasher after 9 pm. Please be gentle with the front door to avoid slamming. Please don’t roll luggage at night or too early on the floor. Have your luggage ready in the hallway to avoid disturbing the neighbours in the morning.
➢ TAXI Taxi G7: 01 47 39 47 39 Taxi G7 (large car): 01 47 39 01 39 Taxi G7 English: 01 41 27 66 99
➢ QUESTIONS? PROBLEMS?
Paris Agent:+33 6 37 53 85 23 (Georgina) Email: [email protected]
Alternative number – send text first: Gail: +33 6 77 06 85 87
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❖ Amenities
❖ Linen and towels ❖ Cable TV with English Special Notes: ❖ Cutlery, cookware and channels dishes ❖ DVD player The building is very secure and ❖ Microwave ❖ Hairdryer without the code and your key you will not be able to enter the ❖ Electric Stove and Oven ❖ Iron and board apartment. ❖ Dishwasher ❖ English books and magazines Please feel free to use any food in ❖ Kettle, Toaster and ❖ Wi-Fi high speed internet the cupboards but please replace Coffee Maker access anything you finish. Thank you! ❖ Fridge, freezer ❖ 1 double bed, 2 single beds Should anything break or be damaged in any way during your ❖ Washer/Dryer Please do not light a fire in the stay please let us know. ❖ Shower & Bath fireplace as it is not safe ❖ Telephone with free local & international landline calls
Tips: NEVER leave your keys inside the lock or you will not be able to get the key into the lock on the outside to open the door again. Only a locksmith will be able to repair it.
❖ The Telephone and International Calls
The phone will allow you to call Incoming call from France: North America, and most EU 01 83 92 74 73 countries— From Europe: To North America 00 33 1 83 92 74 73 001 area code + number Landlines only—(see list) From North America: Otherwise, for countries not listed, 011 33 1 43 29 49 01 please use a phone card. From Australia: To call the apartment: 0011 33 1 83 92 74 73
Tips: International phone cards may be purchased at most convenience stores, « tabacs » (where you buy cigarettes), at most grocery stores or at the post office.
❖ Television & Cable Sky News: 233
CNN: 234 The apartment has cable television. To watch TV press CNBC: 235 the power button on the TV set to place it in standby Bloomberg: 236 then press any channel on the TV remote. BBC: 237 he cable remote is white and in-fact slides open, T Al Jazeera English: 238 revealing the numbers. You need to press the power France 24 English: 232 button to activate the cable box. Catch up on a bit of BBC entertainment: 400 Press P+ or P– to change the channel (P for program) world news or escape from it all... TCM: 403 There are both French and English television stations Travel: 404 available. Free Living: 405
Fox Network: 406 Fox News: 408 ❖ Dvd The apartment has a DVD player. To watch a DVD press the power button on the DVD player’s remote control then after, press the power button on the TV remote. Please make sure the cable box is turned OFF. Then insert a DVD and press play on the DVD remote control
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❖ Bunk Beds
There are two bunk beds which fold down from the wall. Simply fold the table legs and drop the table down. Then pull down the beds to a horizontal position. There are bedside lamps for each bed.
We have provided a small step-ladder to access the top bunk.
❖ Shower
Turn on shower by adjusting right hand knob to desired temperature and turning left hand knob to regulate pressure. The small lever on the bottom left can change between the hand-held and overhead shower heads.
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❖ High Speed Internet Access
The flat is equipped with Wifi. If you have your own computer you will need to synch your machine with the modem. This is done by going to the list of available wireless connections on your computer
Network: SFR- CAAB 5GHZ Passsword: 2ewg73acax9vcu78ixun (all lower cases, no spaces)
Then go to the white “Orange Livebox” modem which is on the floor next to the TV (the one standing tall) and press the black button to the left side of the power-cord inlet. Keep it pressed until you see the red light associated with the antenna (on the front of the modem) blinking. At that point the modem will send a signal that will be found by your computer. You have 5 minutes to enter the network and password.
You can add additional computers later by following the same process
No wireless connection? No problem just unplug the Ethernet plug from the back of the wireless modem and plug that into your laptop.
Problem Solving Mac OS X
Go into your System Preferences. Select Network—the window will open with 2 pull down menus. Select the Locations menu. You should have Automatic selected. Click Show. Select Built in Ethernet. In the dial up box there are 5 pull down menus; select the TCP/IP menu then select the Configure IP v4 menu. In the submenu select Using DHCP The boxes that contained your former IP address will “grey out”; click Apply Now and the current IP address will appear. If you are still having trouble with the connection, give us a call.
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❖ Appliances
Working the Stove, microwave and oven
The kitchen is equipped Press on the ring level by pressing button with a touch sensitive stove, you want to use, twice. separate oven, and holding the upper Oven: select function with microwave. area to raise the dial on far left. Temperature temp and the lower to lower The stove is operated by will display automatically for it. To stop the rings press using the panel to the lower the function, but changeable and hold both areas and it right of the hob. Press the ◊ with +/-. Be sure to turn it will return to zero. shape to switch on and off. off when finished! Then press the Key shape for Microwave: first set the 2 seconds to start the rings. cooking time by rotating the knob. Then select power
Washer/Dryer
This is a washer/dryer combo. The dryer dries with steam, so it does take a lot of time and clothes will feel damp. The machine will stay locked until the cycle is complete PLEASE DO NOT FORCE THE DOOR OPEN.
To wash:
Load a soap tablet or a small amount of liquid To dry: into the largest compartment on the top left Gently touch the lowest sun icon to select that slides open towards you. fabric type.
Load your clothes, but do not over-stuff the Gently touch the upper sun icon and keep machine. Gently touch the on/off button for toggling through until you have reached the power, then touch desired cycle. A ‘rapide’ desired amount of time. cycle is 15 or 30 minutes at the clock icon (30 is recommended) and you can gently toggle this button to choose 30 or 15. Press Start. Remember, this machine dries with steam ☺
There are also cycles for cotton, synthetics and wool. Cotton is the t-shirt icon. Gently toggle through these programs for desired temp °.
Dishwasher
selected programme. Press the Start/Stop button on the far left to The controls for the washer are located inside begin. the door on the top edge. Press the button on the left to adjust setting. For a normal wash please select the Eco setting. The indicator light will light up above the
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❖ Heating
The heat is controlled by the environment that we ask of heaters as it could result electric radiators, under the that you remain in fire. windows. They can be easily conscientious about energy adjusted by opening the consumption, and turn the Please turn off the heaters white flap on the right hand heaters off or to keep them when you leave the side, and turning the dials to on low when you leave for apartment when checking regulate output. the day. out! Thank you!
It is in the best interest of Do no put anything on top
❖ Recycling
The garbage bins are following items: product containers, located downstairs on the • Paper including magazines, • Small electrical appliances ground floor, newsprint or envelopes including blenders, razors, irons underneath the stairs. • Cardboard boxes including or hairdryers. All other garbage or anything There are different garbage cereal boxes, detergent or out you are unsure about should go bins, depending on what packaging in the bin with the green lid. you have to discard. • Metal cans including aerosol products, food tins, aluminum Garbage is picked up every day. All bins are green but the one • Plastic including water, soda, with the Yellow lid is for the milk or juice bottles, cleaning
❖ Metro Station (Subway)
The nearest metro station is Comedie. You will You can ask for a « Plan de Odeon (lines 4 and 10). come to a crossroad Paris » (subway map) at the Walking out of the building where you will see the metro station. Most guide turn left and continue straight Metro entrance on the other books also give you a subway up rue Dauphine, and then side of Bd St Germain. map. veer left on rue de l’Ancienne
Tips: Buy a “Paris Visit day pass” to make unlimited, unrestricted trips around Paris or “un carnet (de dix)” of 10 tickets which you can use on any journey within Paris on the metro, bus or RER. Each metro or bus trip costs one ticket. If you buy a book of 10 identical tickets (carnet de dix) you will make a saving of at least 20% compared to buying 10 tickets separately. You can purchase tickets from a metro station or use the kiosk by selecting your language with the rolling handle. Only some kiosks take bills. Please beware that metro tickets are magnetic. Do not place them with coins, cell phone or other electronics as they will de-magnetize.
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❖ La Poste (The Post Office)
There is a postal office on 118 Instead of standing in The normal postal boulevard St Germain line to send your office hours are from letters, you can use 8:00am-7:00pm
the postal machines available in Monday through Friday and When you post letters or cards the post office. Simply place 8:00am-12:00pm on Saturdays. going outside of France you will your letter on top of the scale Other important services at the be sending them, « à and choose from the on- screen post office include currency l’étranger » (which means options. You can change to the exchange, Western Union, abroad). language of your choice on the photocopying, faxing and more. first screen.
Tips: When dropping mail in the yellow mailboxes “autres departements/ Etranger” is for anything out of Paris or France
❖ Food, Wine and a Whole lot more
Rue de Buci is only a block Bonaparte) . famous writers: Café de away and has everything Flore, Les Deux Magots, There is a covered food from fruit and vegetable and Brasserie Lipp. market called “Marche stands, gourmet food stores Couvert St Germain” at 4-6 St Germain is also the home with tantalizing take-away, as rue Lobineau near metro of the famously chic Bon well as wine and Mabillon on line 10. Marché department store. cheese shops. Open Tues—Sat 8am- You may want to visit the You have a Carrefour 8pm and Sundays 8am- food hall of Le Bon Marché, grocery store in the 1.30pm. Most of the called La Grande Epicerie. middle of rue de stalls close between The store is located just near Buci. 1.30 and 4pm during metro Sevres Babylone. Or tuck into cakes, bread the week. Here you will find a large and pastries from some of You will also find clothes selection of food, wine, the finest patisseries in Paris: boutiques lining the market. bread and more! Paul where you can eat in
and on their terrace on rue A stones throw away are de Buci, or Laudurée (21 rue three favourite haunts of
❖ Where are the Museums and Monuments?
Château de Versailles Musee Carnavalet RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche 23 rue de Sevigne Closed on Monday Metro St Paul (line1) Closed on Monday Musée du Louvre Metro Palais-Royal Musée du Louvre (line 1 or 7) Giverny Closed Tuesday (located 76km outside Paris) Take the train from St Lazare to Vernon Centre Pompidou Metro Rambuteau (line11) Closed Tuesday
Musée d’Orsay Metro Invalides (line 8) Closed Monday 9
Map of the Area - Dauphine 59 Rue Dauphine 75006 Paris
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Map of the Area - Dauphine 59 Rue Dauphine 75006 Paris
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Map of the Area - Dauphine 59 Rue Dauphine 75006 Paris
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RESTAURANT SUGGESTIONS RECOMMENDED BY PARIS RENTAL CONNECTIONS
Preston Mohr’s Restaurant List
Preston Mohr, is an American born wine expert and wine educator, based in Paris, where he has made his home for over 12 years. After falling deeply in love with France’s food and wine culture while studying abroad, he now specializes in old-world wine with a special passion for the wines of the Champagne & Bordeaux regions.
He is the founder of Paris By The Glass (www.parisbytheglass.com), offering wine and gourmet tours and tastings in France’s most historical and prestigious vineyards.
Reservations are recommended at of the following restaurants.
Neva Cuisine 2, rue de Berne 75008 Phone : 01 45 22 18 91
Neva Cuisine is my number one go-to for updated and flawlessly executed French cuisine. The two young chefs here left everything behind at a famous Michelin starred restaurant to start their own place. The 3 course menu at 41€ is a steal in terms of quality and presentation. The interior is that of a classic brasserie, however it has been revisited with modern, très chic and sleek style. They also run the equally as delicious Restaurant Coretta (151, rue Cardinet 75017 Phone 01 42 26 55 55) if they are booked, try this.
La Fontaine de Mars 129 Rue Saint-Dominique 75007 Phone: 01 47 05 46 44
You probably won’t be the only person speaking English here, but its touristy location doesn’t have an impact on the quality. This family owned and operated restaurant serves some of the most delicious and simple French fare such as steak-frites, duck breast, beef tartare, etc. in a classic and pristinely kept bistro setting. The service here is sincere and professional and was good enough for President Obama during one of his official trips.
Le Boudoir 25 rue du Colisée 75008 Phone: 01 43 59 25 29
Chef Arnaud Nicolas has won the prestigious MOF award (meilleur ouvrier de France) for his charcuterie which you can savor, along with other revisited French classics, in this casual and cosy restaurant not far from the Champs Elysées. Front of the house manager Stéphane will take great care of you and recommend some fabulous and not expensive wines to accompany your food. The must-try is the pâté en croute, a beautiful mosaic of homemade pork pâté encased in a rich pastry crust. Comfortable, friendly service and centrally located !
Café des Musées 49 Rue de Turenne 75003 Phone : 01 42 72 96 17
It can be hard to find a good casual meal in the Marais these days. But fortunately, we have the Café des Musées, tucked away on a quiet corner of what is an otherwise chaotic touristy area. They specialize in traditional French food at reasonable prices, all served up in a classic Paris café atmosphere. The 21 Euro 3-course lunch menu is a bargain!
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Miroir 94 rue des Martyrs 75018 Phone : 01 46 06 50 73
Miroir is Montmartre's answer to fine dining. Located amongst the highest concentration of otherwise terrible and touristy restaurants, Miroir is a shining star. Their food would be categorized as French classics revisited, without being full of foams, reductions or anything too overworked. Their wine selection is excellent and all bottles can be purchased for take-away at their wine shop, Cave du Miroir, across the street.
Le Coq Rico 98 Rue Lepic, 75018 Phone: 01 42 59 82 89
This restaurant specializes in deluxe poultry, such as the poulet de Bresse or the yellow-footed chicken from the Landes in the Southwest of France. The entire bird is presented to you and cooked on a rotisserie spit with your choice of sides (this takes a approx. 45 minutes, so order starters). It’s a very fun place for a group of 4 or more so you can order an entire chicken for the table. Their other dishes are inventive and good as well, and their daily lunch special is a bargain. They take reservations on their website, which is a rarity in France.
Le Bon Georges 45 rue St. Georges 75009 Phone: 01 48 78 40 30
Le Bon Georges is a classic French bistro par excellence. The young and totally bilingual Benoit, who is so enthusiastic about the quality of his ingredients, runs this charming place. The products de terroir are excellent and they serve the best beef I’ve ever had in France (they serve it as various cuts of steaks, tartare and hand-sliced carpaccio). The menu changes each week depending on what’s available in the market, but there are always several beef dishes, a few fish options and usually a poultry option. The wine list is lengthy and Benoit is happy to help select for you!
La Rotonde 105 Boulevard Montparnasse 75006 Phone: 01 43 26 48 26
This is my favorite of the classic Parisian brasseries. With it’s recent renovation, bringing the interior back to its original red velvet banqueted glory, this is the perfect rainy-day restaurant for their home-made French onion soup followed by a wonderful steak from the celebrity butcher Hugo Desnoyer. The sole meunièure and the turbot are also excellent and worth the price. The service here is always attentive and friendly and the food uncomplicated and succulent. If you’re lucky enough to linger in one of the “boxes” (booths), lose yourself in the scenery and the faint clinking of glasses. In other words, a perfect place for no-frills but great food! Nice terrace in summer.
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Open-Air Markets:
Marché Bastille – This is the largest market in Paris with over 150 stalls selling fresh fruit, vegetables, meats, fish and clothing. Open Thursdays and Sundays from 8 am – 2 pm. 8 Boulevard de Richard Lenoir 75011 (metro Bastille or Bréguet-Sabin).
Marché Raspail – Thursdays & and all organic market on Sunday morning from 8 am – 2 pm on Boulevard Raspail Raspail between rue du Cherche Midi & rue de Rennes Paris 75006.
Marché d’Aligre – One of the most atmospheric and authentic indoor & outdoor markets in a typical, non-tourist area of Paris. Open everyday except Mondays from 8 am – 2 pm.
Cheese Affineurs:
Androuet –
One of Paris’s oldest and best cheese shops, established in 1909. Large selection of aged French cheeses. Several locations throughout Paris : http://androuet.com/fromage-paris-5- France-6-fromagerie.html
Marie Quartrehomme –
Another fantastic family-run cheese shop. The owner is a MOF (meuilleur ovrier de France – or best tradesperson of France). http://www.quatrehomme.fr/
Wine Bars:
See Preston’s recent article on the best wine bars in Paris: http://www.driftwoodjournals.com/top-6-wine-bars-in-paris-a-sommeliers-guide/
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Z&J’s Guide to Eating and Drinking in Paris
September 3, 2016 Martin | Boire et Manger: One of our top picks!
We know one of the first questions you will have coming off the airplane is “where are we going to eat?” The challenge of course won’t be finding a restaurant, it will be choosing! So Jaymes our knowledgeable blog writer, web designer and once our Paris agent and his wife Zel compiled this comprehensive list of their favourite eats and drinks for their many wedding guests who came to Paris. They have kindly shared it with us. You may find it biased towards their own area of Paris but as Jaymes always says it has the best food in town!
Paris is one of the defining culinary capitals of the world, if for no other reason than it’s at the geographic center of France and Europe’s diverse agricultural regions. As a result, Paris is supplied with daily fresh deliveries of produce, meats, seafood, dairy products and countless other comestibles. Whether it’s oysters from Bretagne, foie gras from the Aquitaine, Choucroute garnis from Alsace, Cassoulet from the Languedoc or simply champagne from Champagne, Paris doesn’t have a specific culinary tradition of its own per se, but is rather the center point where all of France’s culinary traditions converge and are put on display at the highest level.
Steak-Frites
Our top pick for Paris’ most signature dish would have to be the original Le Bistrot Paul Bert (18 rue Paul Bert 75011). Their Côte de Boeuf (Prime Rib), served for two people, with a side plate of hand cut, expertly fried potatoes is simply perfection. This is not for the faint of heart or stomach, so come hungry and be prepared! They have an extensive wine list as well, with many great natural wines form Bourgogne that pair nicely.
Our second choice is the timeless Relais de l’Entrecôte (15 rue Marbeuf, 8th Arr.). While Paul Bert boasts a variety of classic French dishes on it’s menu, Relais is purely steak frites. Thinly sliced and served with their mysterious green sauce, Relais is an experience of its own. You certainly won’t escape the tourists eating here, but you won’t be disappointed with the meal either. We highly recommend the Dâme Blanche for dessert. A head’s up though, the waitresses will be a little on the cold and gruff side…consider it part of the Parisian charm.
Soufflé
Our top pick for a genuine French soufflé is also Le Bistrot Paul Bert. Their gargantuan, not overly sweet vanilla soufflé ladeled with Grand Marnier (orange liqueur) is masterfully prepared and absolutely delicious. Save room for it!
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Crêpes
Our top pick for crêpes is a toss up between Chez Imogene (25 rue Jean-Pierre Rimbaud 11th Arr.) and Lulu La Nantaise (67 rue de Lancry, 10th Arr.). Both are fantastic examples of brettone-style crêperies offering genuine blé-noir (buckwheat) crêpes and galettes from Bretagne (Brittany). LINGO TIP: A crêpe with savory ingredients is actually a galette, which is folded in a square. A crêpe is sweet and generally served in the more familiar triangular shape.
Croque Monsieur/Madame
This traditional bar munchie has gone on to achieve some what of a mythic status in the culinary world. Perhaps it’s just the simplicity of toasted cheese and ham. However, finding one in Paris that’s not been reheated from a refrigerator can be a daunting task. Thanks to our friends Jakob and Julie, we were introduced to Café La Fusée (168 rue Saint Martin, 3rd Arr.) a few years ago. Aside from just being a great all around, hole-in-the wall wine bar near the Centre Pompidou Art Museum, they serve some of the best Croques in Paris. Stacked triple decker high and topped with chives, it should satisfy the craving. LINGO TIP: A Croque Monsieur and a Croque Madame are identical, except that a Croque Madame is served with a sunny-side egg on top.
Confit de Canard (Duck Confit)
Duck confit is another list topper for foodies heading to Paris. Consisting of a duck leg, fried and preserved in it’s rendered fat with aromatics, the real magic of this dish is when it’s reheated to a crisp in the oven and served with potatoes. Our top pick would have to be Bistrot des Oies (2 Rue Marie et Louise, 10th Arr.). Their home made and preserved duck confit is a perfect example of this dish. However, be sure to dine here early as they often run out!
Foie Gras
Perhaps France’s most infamous dish, foie gras comes in many different varieties, but almost uniformly always comes at a high price tag. Thankfully, Les Fabricants (61 rue Jean-Pierre Rimbaud, 11th Arr.) makes their own foie gras maison, served year-round. At 10 euros for a generous serving, this is an excellently prepared and very accessible entry point into the divine world of foie gras.
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Mousse au Chocolat
As a fellow food enthusiast, Zela’s cousin Raffi would agree that the best address for the “vraie” chocolate mousse in Paris is Chez Janou (2 Rue Roger Verlomme, 3rd Arr.). Brought to you in a largepot that you could practically swim in, it’s a chocolate lover’s dream come true.
Millefeuille
Le Bar Fleuri
Thin slices of delicate puff pastry mounted between rows of crème patissière, a good millefeuille should be surprisingly light and not overly sweet. Here are two spots where we know they serve it just right:
Café de La Mairie: 8 Place Saint Sulpice, 6th Arr. This old school café stretches it’s terrace out across the side walk, offering dramatic views of the impressive Saint Sulpice church. While the food here is often a little overpriced for what it is, it’s worth coming here for a coffee and a slice of their Millefeuille and to soak in the ambience of this classic Left Bank terrace.
Le Bar Fleuri: 1 rue du Plateau, 19th Arr. The opposite of the Café de la Mairie in terms of price and style, Le Bar Fleuri is well off the beaten path near Buttes-Chaumont, Paris’ impressive, hilly park. This hole-in-the-wall, old-school neighborhood brasserie is a rare gem from a past era. While most renowned for their 7 euro plate of roast chicken and fries, one of the absolute best cheap eats in the whole city, Le Bar Fleuri also makes one of the best Millefeuilles. No frills and under no fancy showcase, their old-school millefeuille sits out by the bar on large baking trays and is generously sliced to order. This is the real deal.
Pâtisserie (French Pastry)
L’escargot chocolate pistachio from Du Pain et Des Idées
While Italy can match France in terms of varieties of cheese and wine and Spain can rival in the cured meats department, there’s one culinary domain where France is untouchable: Bread and Pastry. Bakeries,
or boulangeries, have been at the centre of French life for centuries and are still found on nearly every corner of Paris today. While almost any boulangerie in Paris is liable to serve good bread and pastry, they’re not all created equally. Here are a few stand out addresses that offer the best examples:
Du Pain et Des Idées: 34 rue Yves Toudic, 10th Arr. Simply put, this is one of the most reputable bakeries in all of Paris. Just take one step inside and you’ll realize this is truly a unique place. Using only the highest quality ingredients and the most traditional of
18 techniques, Du Pain is truly a step back in time. Aside from the finest examples of French pastry classics, like croissants, baguettes and pains au chocolat, their escargots (snail shipped spirals of delicate, flaky puff pastry) are the house specialty. We especially recommend the one with pistachios.
Utopie: 20 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11th Arr. Utopie is a new startup bakery run by two young, innovative bakers who have brought many nuances and innovations to traditional French bread and pastry. Their croissants are simply perfect and they make our favorite chausson aux pommes. But our favorite is the tarte vanille, a delicate tart shell filled with decadent vanilla cream made with very real and very potent vanilla.
Ladurée Bonaparte: 21 rue Bonaparte, 6th Arr. Ladurée is a classic institution in Paris. Originally opening it’s doors as a humble bakery, Ladurée transformed itself into one of the first high-end pastry boutiques in Paris and today is considered the archetype. The tea room at their original location on the Champs-Elysées also became a central meeting point for affluent women and the feminist movement in France at the turn of the 19th century. Their success led to the opening of several other boutiques throughout the city, of which are personal favorite is the one at 21 rue Bonaparte in the heart of St. Germain-dès-Prés. This quieter, more laid back location is unique because of it’s luxurious oriental tea room. The voluminous space is naturally lit from the glass ceiling above and is adorned with elegant tapestries and murals. It’s the perfect location to relax for an afternoon tea and macaron.
Pierre Hermé: Many Locations The current reigning king of innovation in the world of Macarons, Pierre Hermé has many locations throughout the Paris. A quick google maps search can find the boutique closest to your accommodations. Offering many wild and adventurous flavor combinations, this is our top pick to try France’s most luxurious pastry. The friendly, professional staff at each location often speak English and will gladly explain the different varieties and make flavor pairing suggestions for you.
OUR TOP WINE BARS
Just like pastry and bread, it’s hard to have a ‘bad’ glass of wine per se in Paris. However, most restaurants and cafés don’t stray too far form the beaten paths of wines that are nowadays quite prominent in the states. So here are a few address where you can truly discover for yourself new and trending wines in France that haven’t quite yet landed stateside:
La Barrette Rouge
La Barrette Rouge: 10 rue du Grand Prieuré, 11th Arr. Dangerously located just downstairs from our apartment, this relatively unpublicized wine cave is everything we love about current wine culture in Paris. It’s laid back with no frills and no pretensions. Just a few friendly faces with one common goal in life, drinking good, affordable wine. They have a very eclectic selection of natural wines and non-AOC, off-the-wall varieties (rosé pétillant?). They also serve wonderfully fresh and delicious small plates. We highly recommend whatever bottle they have open behind the bar on any given night and their burrata (the real deal) with antipasti plate.
Martin | Boire et Manger: 24 Boulevard du Temple, 11th Arr.
If La Barrette Rouge is everything we love about contemporary wine culture in France, then Martin is everything we love about the whole contemporary French culinary pantheon. Adapting fresh and 19 innovative French, néobistrot cuisine to the affordable and socially casual format of Spanish tapas, Martin is a perfect place to gather with friends and share good food and wine. Their menu of small plates changes daily, making it easy to explore many different types of dishes on any given evening. Their list of natural wines is exquisite and equally accessible. It’s also one of the few places in Paris where you can be assured of being served an ice-cold beer that is artisinally crafted and is 4 euros a pint all night long.
Verjus: 47 rue de Montpellier, 1st Arr. Verjus is both a restaurant and a wine bar, opened by an American couple who rose to culinary prominence in Paris back when they ran a private supper club in their apartment. While the restaurant will require reservations, the wine bar downstairs is pretty laid-back and offers a fantastic selection of regional wines and exquisite champagnes. Not to mention, it’s directly across the street from the Palais Royal, meaning after a glass or three you can go for a magical stroll beneath the stone arcades.
OUR TOP COCKTAIL BARS
Candelaria
Candelaria: 52 Rue de Saintonge, 3rd Arr. We’re quite sure that everyone who has ever come to visit us in Paris has probably come with us at some point to Candelaria. Regularly reputed as one of the best cocktail bars in the world, Candelaria has become a Paris standard. At first glance a no frills,
California-style taco bar in the front, step through the white door that would presumably lead to the kitchen pantry and step into a dimly lit speakeasy, serving up innovative, delicious and deceptively potent elixirs. We recommend also having some tacos from the restaurant up front, especially if their margarita machine is churning out frozen, tamarind-infused margaritas.
Le Mary Celeste: 1 Rue Commines, 3rd Arr. Run by the same team behind Candelaria, Le Mary Celeste serves an equally impressive selection of cocktails, as well as exquisitely prepared small plates to accompany them. A local favorite and list topper for visitors during fashion week, be sure to get here early to get a table.
Pas de Loup: 108 Rue Amelot, 11th Arr. Developed by former members of the team behind Candelaria, Pas de Loup also has an amazing cocktail selection, but with a greater emphasis on food and wine as well. Whether stopping by for an apéritif and a small plate for happy hour, or planning to stay through dinner and cocktails, you can’t really go wrong here.
Harry’s New York Bar: 5 rue Daunou, 2nd Arr. While the aforementioned bars are at the forefront of contemporary cocktails in Paris, Harry’s may well be the birthplace of the movement. Passing through the swinging saloon doors, Harry’s New York Bar is half museum, half time-machine. To give you an idea, such immortal drink recipes as the Bloody Mary, French 75 and the Side Car were born here. This old haunt has been frequented by such iconoclasts as Ernest Hemingway, Coco Chanel, Humphrey Bogart, George Gershwin and even fictionally by James Bond in Ian Flemming’s 1960 novel, From A View to a Kill.
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CRAFT BEER IN PARIS
Hoppy Corner
For all of the things Paris is traditionally renowned for, beer has not been one of them. However, in the last 5 years or so craft beer has exploded in France and like most other areas of the culinary world, Paris has become center stage for some of the most exciting breweries popping up all over Europe. Here are some the best addresses for craft beers in Pairs:
Hoppy Corner: 34 Rue des Petits Carreaux, 2nd Arr. Hands down, our favorite beer bar of the moment. The bar itself is quite sophisticated in appearance, but the guys behind the bar are super laid-back and eager to help you pick from 1 of 20 craft beers on tap at any moment. Ranging form light to dark, hoppy to malty, there’s something for everyone, along with a regularly changing menu of glorified bar munchies to eat alongside. They also serve toasted spent grains from the brewing process as a free munchie, which is surprisingly addicting.
La Fine Mousse: 4 bis Avenue Jean Aicard, 11th Arr. One of the first craft beer bars that started it all, La Fine Mousse also has 20 craft beers on draft at any moment and serve exquisite cheese and charcuterie plates to accompany them. Their big leather chairs and rustic stone interior make this an easy bar to hang out in for a whole evening!
Les Trois 8: 11 Rue Victor Létale, 2oth Arr. Same format as the two bars mentioned above, Les Trois 8 is slightly smaller and cozier with an ever impressive beer selection.
Deck and Donahue: 71 Rue de la Fraternité, 93100 Montreuil Perhaps Paris’ best local craft brewery, take a trip out to the Montreal suburb of Paris and say hello to our friend Mike Donahue and sample some of their latest brews right at the source! They have an open house most weekends from 11am to 3pm.
WORLD CUISINE IN PARIS
Italy in Paris
Epicerie Musicale
“Only Paris is worthy of Rome; only Rome is worthy of Paris” reads the sister city pact between two of the world’s greatest cities. In the culinary domain, you could say the same thing overall about France and Italy. Due to France’s next-door proximity to Italy, there are many Italian epiceries, or food shops, that get weekly, if not daily deliveries of fresh products straight from their home country. It’s for this reason that Paris is probably the best place outside of Italy to have ‘real’ Italian food. Here’s our go-to spots:
Epicerie Musicale: 55 Bis Quai de Valmy, 10th Arr. One of our absolute favorite spots in Paris period. Through friends we’ve gotten to know the owners over the past few years and this has quickly become our go-to place to meet up with friends. Superbly decorated with mid-century, modern Italian furniture and appointments, the ambience is completed with soul and blues music coming straight off vinyl from the turntable next to the kitchen counter. This is the place to have a Spritz, the internationally renowned cocktail from Venezia, made authentically with your
21 choice of bitter: Aperol, Cynar or Campari, or in the honor of our good friend Francesco Fioretto, a blend of Aperol and Cynar, known appropriately as a Fioretto. Pair your spritz with their large assiette (plate of antipasti, exquisite aged Italian cheeses, fresh, authentic burrata and a very refined selection of Italian charcuterie).
Mmmmozza: 57 Rue de Bretagne This small Italian sandwich shop is all about one thing: Mozzarella and all of its glorious incarnations. This is by far our favorite sandwich shop. On your choice of focaccia, ciabatta or baguette, you get a whole ball of fresh burrata with your choice of such ingredients as sun-dried tomatoes, roasted eggplants, mortadella, jambon di parma, or capicola. Perfectly situated across from the beautiful park and garden, the Square du Temple, grab your sandwich and take a seat on the grass!
Pozzetto: 39 Rue du Roi de Sicile What started as a gelato shop has expanded into a full-fledged Italian epicerie. One of our favorite spots deep in the Marais, the guys that run Pozzetto are super nice and welcoming. Our recommendation would be to share their mixed assortment of 24 month-aged parmesan and fine Italian charcuterie with some ice-cold, red label Peroni beers. Save room for a scoop of their artisanal gelato afterwards!
Lisbon in Paris
Don Antonià
If there’s one city we love as much as Paris, it’s Lisbon. It’s the best of California and Europe combined: The Climate of LA, the hills overlooking the bay and the distinctive bridge of San Francisco, all combined the timeless architecture of a European city. Given these qualities, Lisbon has become a popular destination for French people on vacation, leading to a rise in popularity of Portuguese cuisine and culture in France. As a result, many Portuguese chefs and restaurant owners have opened up some great places in Paris:
Comme À Lisbonne: 37 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 4th Arr. Originally just a 2 meter wide coffee shop nestled between other shops on a small street in the Marais, Comme à Lisbon has since expanded next door into their small restaurant, Tasca. This is one of the best places to try the Pasteis di Nata pastry, a traditional recipe originating form the Portuguese monks in the city of Belèm outside of Lisbon, consisting of a smooth custard inside a shell of puff pastry. Subtle and not overly sweet, it’s the perfect accompaniment to a portugese coffee or hot chocolate!
Don Antonia: Rue de la Grange Aux Belles, 10th Arr. Recently opened along the Canal Saint Martin, Don Antonia is a beautiful little bakery that serves many different varieties of the famed Pasteis, plus a whole selection of traditional Portuguese breads, pastries and small snacks, such as black bean and tuna salad and fried cod fritters. The charming, pastel-colored mid-century décor makes for a delightful, retro coffee shop vibe and a great place to head to on a quiet weekend morning in Paris.
A Taste of the Middle East
Urfa Durum Paris’s large community of Mediterranean cultures from the Middle East provide the city with a smorgasbord of diverse cuisine. While there are no shortage of greasy kebab shops that should be avoided, we can recommend some authentic places that just might be one of the culinary highlights of your trip!
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Genç Urfa: 11 rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 10th Arr. This Kurdish joint is our top pick for lahmajun, the traditional middle eastern flat-bread with minced meat, baked to a crisp and served with fresh vegetables and herbs. One of the best cheap eats in Paris and one that never disappoints. The little tables out front are fun to sit at and take in the view of the overlooking stone Arch, l’Arche de Saint-Denis.
Urfa Durum: 58 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis, 10th Arr. Just up the street from Genç Urfa, is another one of our favorite Kurdish sandwich shops, whose lamb kebab sandwich, cooked traditionally over open coals, is one the best kebabs in all of Paris.
L’As du Falaffel: 34 Rue des Rosiers, 4th Arr. A trip to Paris wouldn’t be complete without one of the Marais’ most famous falafel sandwiches. In the heart of the Jewish quarter near metro Saint-Paul, L’As du Falafel rather
undisputedly has the best falafel in Paris. However, be prepared to wait in line on the weekend, as tourists cue up around the corner!
Le Petit Phénicien– 101 Rue Oberkampf, 11th Arr. Le Petit Phénicien is our go-to Lebanese spot. Everything from their chiche taouk (chargrilled chicken) sandwich to their tabouleh, moutabol and labneh are spot on. They’re open late too, so if you’re out for the night along rue Oberkampf, bypass the greasy kebab and crêpe shops and head straight here!
Bonjour Vietnam Bo Bun at Le Cambodge
Saigon Sandwich– 8 Rue de la Présentation, 11th Arr. A bit of a trek into Paris’ more colorful, but trending Belleville quarter, Saigon Sandwich is one of the most authentic Banh Mi joints in the city and one of the best deals period. The charming Vietnamese man and his family who run the place even bake their own baguettes Vietnamese style. Their house sandwich, complete marinated pork, chicken or beef, with cilantro and authentic Vietnamese red chilis are less than 4 euros and well worth the trek.
Le Cambodge – 10 Avenue Richerand, 10th Arr. This staple near the Canal St. Martin is kind of the opposite of Saigon Sandwich. The deco and the location clearly appeal to the trendy demographic of the area in place of the authenticity that’s a little rough around the edges in Belleville. But, their Bo Bûn is absolutely delicious and one of the best of examples of the dish we’ve ever had. Do come early though, because if there’s one thing Parisians consume as much as wine and cigarettes, it’s bo bûn and this place get’s bumping later on into the evening.
Little Japan
Okonomiyaki at Happy Teï
The Japanese quarter of Paris is an authentic dining experience not to be missed. Head to rue Saint-Anne near the Opéra Garnier, and you’ll have countless Japanese restaurants to choose from. Here are our favorites:Hokkaido: 14 Rue Chabanais Hot, fresh and fulfilling! This Japanese rice and noodle house serves
23 some of the most authentic and hot (emphasis on both temperature and spice) Japanese food in Paris. This can be quite a popular place on weekends and at lunch time, so plan accordingly and come very, very hungry.
Happy Teï: 64 Rue Sainte-Anne THE PLACE to have okonomiyaki in Paris. The rather indescribable cabbage pancake with numerous toppings, ranging from octopus to shaved bacon, is an experience in its own. The restaurant itself has a very charming and cozy upstairs dining area as well. Well worth the visit for the adventurous foodie!
Dosanko Lamen– 40 Rue Sainte-Anne This is our go-to Ramen and Gyoza joint. The massive pot of boiling stock positioned right next to the window should give you an idea of the authenticity of this place. For spice lovers, we recommend trying the Kim-Chi-based ramen!
Please leave your Restaurant Suggestions:
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❖ St Germain Walking Tour 1
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❖ St Germain Walking Tour 2
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❖ Useful French Vocabulary
Greetings
Hello/Good morning Bonjour. Good evening Bonsoir. Good night Bonne nuit. Goodbye Au revoir. Yes Oui No Non. Maybe Peut-être Please S’il vous plaît Thank you Merci You’re welcome Je vous en prie Excuse me Excusez-moi I’m sorry Pardon How are you? Comment allez-vous? (formal) Comment vas-tu?/Comment ça va? (informal) Signs Entrance Entrée Exit Sortie Open Ouvert Closed Fermé Browsers welcome Entrée libre Free admission Entrée libre Full/no vacancies Complet Information Reseignements Cash Register Caisse Police station Commissariat de police Men Hommes Women Femmes
Getting Around What times does the ...leave/arrive? A quelle heure part/arrive…? Bus (city) l’autobus/le bus Bus (intercity) l’autocar/ le car Train le train Where is (the)…? Où est…? Bus stop L’arrêt d’autobus/ l’arrêt de bus Metro station La station de métro Train station la gare Ticket office le guichet I’d like a ...ticket Je voudrais un billet… One way aller-simple Return Trip aller-retour 1st class première classe 2nd class deuxième classe
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❖ Useful French Vocabulary
Getting Around (continued)
The train is… Le train est... Delayed en retard On time à l’heure Early en avance cancelled annulé
Around Town
I’m looking for… Je cherche… A bank/exchange office une banque/un bureau de change
City center centre ville Post office le bureau de poste/ la poste A public phone une cabine téléphonique Market le marché
I would like to change je voudrais changer some money/ de l’argent Travelers cheques chèques de voyages
Directions
How do I get to…? Comment je vais à/au…? To the metro station à la station de métro To Sacred Heart au Sacré Coeur Can you show me…? Pouvez vous me montrer …? on the map sur le plan Go straight Continuez tout droit Turn left Tournez à gauche Turn right Tournez à droite
Food
breakfast le petit déjeuner lunch le déjeuner dinner le dîner
A starter/appetiser une entrée Main course le plat principal Dessert un dessert
Set menu prix fixe/ un menu The menu le menu/la carte
Check please! L’addition s’il vous plait! Do you accept credit Acceptez vous les cartes Cards de crédits Tip un pourboire 28
❖ Useful numbers
PARIS RENTAL CONNECTIONS
Paris Agent: 06 37 53 85 23
London Office: +44 208 961 6770
Commissariat (Police): dial 17
Pompiers (Fire Department): dial 18
SAMU (Emergency Medical Assistance): dial 15
Emergency: 112
SOS Anti-poison (anti poison hotline): 01 40 05 48 48 SOS Dentist: 01 43 36 36 00 SOS Medecin (emergency doctor’s hotline): 01 47 07 77 77 SOS Pediatre (emergency children doctor): 01 40 03 22 73
ENGLISH SPEAKING PRIVATE HOSPITAL
American Hospital: 01 46 41 25 25 63, Bd Victor Hugo 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine
TRAVEL
Info SNCF (Train service info): 08 92 35 35 35
Taxi G7 English: 01 41 27 66 99 Taxi G7: 01 47 39 47 39 Taxi G7 Monospace : 01 47 39 01 39
Chauffeur Services : Sébastien Bazin 24/7 Cell phone: +33 6 60 43 70 39 . Email: [email protected]. Website: http://chauffeursdemaitre.com/?lang=en_US
For home service deliveries, concierge services and orientation tours, Karina at Travel Light Paris offers paniers of carefully chosen delicious French food delivered to you on arrival. She also offers orientation tours of your neighbourhood, visits to local markets, personalized itinerary planning and insider tips, plus booking of tickets and activities to help you make the most of your stay in Paris! www.travellightparis.com Guided Tours: Paris Off the Beaten Track. Marie-Theres Berger – Official guide. Private walking tour is for a delightful introduction to the city’s history and neighborhoods. The tours can be arranged at your convenience. http://promenadesaparis.blogspot.co.uk/
EMBASSIES:
American Embassy. 2, rue St-Florentin, 1er. 01 43 12 23 47 Australian Embassy. 4, rue Jean Rey, 15e. 01 40 59 33 00 British Embassy: 01 44 51 31 00 35, rue du Faubourg St Honoré, 8e. Canadian Embassy. 35, avenue Montaigne, 8e. 01 44 43 29 00. Irish Embassy. 12, avenue Foch, 16e. 01 44 17 67 00 New Zealand Embassy 01 45 01 43 43 7ter, rue Léonard da Vinci, 16e.
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