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D 6750(L) Vol 10 Part 1 Frances Diana Christison Trip diary of a journey by Bond's Tourist Motor Coach from Adelaide to Darwin and return 23 May - 11 August 1928. Transcribed by Judy M Fander, Volunteer at the State Library of South Australia, 2012

Page numbers in the text are positioned at the bottom right hand corner, in pencil

Each traveller was allowed between 30 lbs & 40 lbs weight of luggage I brought mine down to 35 lbs including a waterproof rug.

Page 2 1928 There & Back July 3rd. Tuesday It is previous to write of “Back” when we are so much engaged in getting “There.” Before getting there it is necessary to start. We did. We did little else. Cheery goodbyes, hand shakes, hand waves• camera snaps and the big touring Studebaker, & its accompanying lighter car was off at 8.30 a.m from Bond’s garage. Kind friends who had seen us off dispersed• and “we” that is the two car loads of luminaries & their good & chatells• got as far as King William St when it became evident that the springs were “done”, Back to garage where the car was jacked up the whole complement of the garage crawled underneath & did mysterious things. After some time it was announced that about 11.30 we could be under weigh. The party consisting of Mrs. Bond, Mrs. Christison, Mr. Bond (driver):•Mr. Amies from Melbourne: Mr. Pope, (Cook); Mr. Robb & Mr. Trussell scattered, returning to find that the superlatively strong & brand new springs which had not acted up to expectations were replaced by the old ones• the others to be altered & follow us by rail to Oodnadatta. We were just out of Frome Road when an ominous noise made me wonder. Car was stopped• investigations decided that back to garage we must go• spring broken! This time there was no question. It was given out that departure could not be made till the morrow• We departed to various destinations. Surprise and consternation when I appeared at the Club – but a welcome for the night in the same old room• no camping out! Here endeth the first lesson. Wednesday July 4th. Mr. Bond sent car for me, & I found all the passengers & crew ready at the garage. A second car ready to accompany the big one. At 8.30 the two cars were off. a snap taken by Mr Lane• Very quiet goodbye & we were really under way Kept so travelling briskly through Two Wells, Malala to Balaklava where we stopped for some morning tea Remembering the hurried tea & toast at the Club it seemed very pleasant.

Went through Red Hill & Naridy & passed Lochiel & some small salt ponds. Went through Snow town & reached Port Pirie at 2.30 where we lunched at the Royal Exchange Hotel. After which we pushed on to Port Augusta where we found the inhabitants plunged in a hectic time of gaiety \owing to Race Week’/ The Flinders Hotel however offered us dinner at 7.30. Camping out was determined on [ .? ] about 221 miles from Adelaide• There was no possible chance of accommodation in the town. A great surprise awaited me when my nephew Bob came up to the car• where Mr Bond & I were sitting awaiting events

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______including dinner. He & his father were up for the Races with a horse to run. Polo had been going on all day a dance tonight. The dance was very evident from the crowd of noisy young people in evening dress at the hotel & three relays of dinner Went in & saw Bob & had a chat• Soon after dinner we loaded up with petrol and went on 22 miles further to camp in the bush. A bright fire lit• Two tents put up one given to Mrs. Bond & me & 2 camp beds Hot coffee or cocoa & we turned in• The men sleeping in the cars a tarpaulin or the other tent. Myall scrub• some needle bush. Much mistletoe on the trees Thursday 6th Woke at dawn. some hot water brought in my “bath” • Found breakfast getting ready when we left tent. Impressive repast chops eggs & bacon sausages• Some little work getting into cars, packing We were again off at 9.15 At 10.25 were at Hesso rail station 38 miles from P Augusta East-West railwayline. Two small cottages where were two women with babies splendid specimens.

Page 4 next passed through Barkaloo Go in Woocala 12.30 Very stony country about 82 miles from Port Auga Here & there at places near the homesteads were small enclosures with head- stones to graves• perhaps two or one only. At Hesso one lonely grave bore on the head- stone the inscription Samuel Gason April 11. 1897. aged 52. Erected by friends & admirers from Passed Wirrappa 109 miles from P. Augusta. Startled an emu. A flock of Kangaroos about 3.20 The homestead of “The Pines” about 3.40. Phillips Pard 4.15. took snaps of some fine children who came to the car a boy & girl about 4 & 6. We pushed on through some very desolate country till we came to a scrub & tree region where we stopped at 7 p.m to camp for the night. In a wonderfully short space of time Mr. Pope had a good dinner ready• a delicious stew followed by tea & cake. It was cold with a clear sky. Mr. Bond rigged up wireless and we enjoyed 5CL Adelaide & 3LO Melbourne the voices at times being very clear–We turned in, Mrs. Bond & I again sharing a tent & a gorgeous tent blue & white stripes suggestive of a beach in a French watering place. For the first time I was pushed into a sleeping bag & having also a camp bed I slept soundly in spite of bitter cold. The morning fire was so enticing that we shifted out table We actually have a collapsable table with a piece of white American cloth which does duty for “plate” at 2nd course as we are only allowed a change of plates when there is “stewed fruit”­July 6th \Friday/ Left the camp 9.15. 1st stop at the East Well. Station owned by Mr. Pick away at P. Augusta Races. There were camps of blacks nearby and we took some snaps of them at the homestead. A Mr Michael got petrol there. perhaps boundary riders knew Clare 60 years ago. Camped for lunch before going hit Kingoonya Station the railway line with post mail telegraph office, not much else.

N.B. The Blacks were at Coonambo Station owned by Mr Pick. Bon Bon station 5.15 Pretty little garden Mt Eba Station 6.15. Neat pretty house with little garden & vine on verandah• Saturday 7th July Camped three miles from Mt Eba in Myall scrub A blazing camp pre lit and tents pitched• two motor cars parallel & a tarpaulin stretched across making our “dining hall.” After the evening mess Mrs. Bond’s gramaphone His Master’s Voice was unpacked and we enjoyed some excellent records until she & I were too sleepy for more. The car needed attention & kept Mr.

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Bond & Mr. Robb busy till the early morning when from my tent near[ ? ] I heard the snorting that proclaimed “she” (the big Studebaker”) was in going order. Dawn was again bitterly cold and even my snug sleeping bag and my socks & hot water-bag (alas by this time also cold) kept me from shivering. Ere long the cook appeared with our hot “baths”­ & by 8. everyone was ready for the hot breakfast that smelt so good from the pan. “Damper” this morning & very good it was The sun rose to a cloudless sky. Kingoonya about 3 p.m. Reached a station “Twin Wells” 11.20 Saw camel team resting just before getting there Two Wells owned by a Mr. -- Jacob brother to Mr Max Jacob who once drove for Mr. Bond at Clare. A very good house newly built of stone three sides verandah• a garden in preparation• sugar gums planted. Some miles further on we took the wrong track and found ourselves at a new homestead unfinished many shearers about. Informed us we were 20 miles out of the way. Went back about 14 miles and got on right track to the right. A heavily laden lorry was following us• also uncertain of the way.

Page 6 About 2.30 stopped for lunch in [illegible crossed out ] bare country lit small fire & had lunch• A little light bush but no trees• stones looking like black basalt. A black woman came along• told us she belonged to a boring party which was not far off• We met them later on. Crossed the first creek we encountered “Bumby” dry­ As we went on the country from being bare sand & stones with no evidence of rain for years changed to salt-bush with with green vegetation springing up between. Rain must have been very recent & the feed was splendid. No sheep or any other life in sight After sunset we again picked up the lorry, also making for Coober Peedy. The driver a Mr. Watson a contractor known to Mr. Trussel had been having a very bad time. He had taken good from Adelaide– had various engine troubles, lost a cylinder head & sent for a new one which instead of being unloaded at Kingoonya was taken on to Kalgoorlie His supply of water was exhausted & he had to drink from his radiator. We decided not to go in to Coober Peedy but to camp by a dry creek where were the first gum trees we had seen (poor, stunted specimens) & a grove of myalls. The lorry man also turned & camped by us– spending the evening by our camp-fire & listening to Wireless which was turned on from Melbourne with a prize-fight & other attractions.

“Cooper Pedy” said to be aboriginal for “White man in a Hole” Stuart Range In red ink Coober Pedy Opal Fields Sunday July 8. Left camp at 9.30. Country stony– salt bush– rain quite lately– bright green grass coming up between bushes. Dawn was bitterly cold. Cook up early big fire & hot breakfast. Arrived about 10.30 at Coober Pedy Opal fields. Over 100 people living in dug outs in the side of small bare hills. An opal digger took us to his dug-out to see his wife his mother a brother a little son aged 8 living quite underground. At first one could see little in the dim light– but ones eyes getting accustomed we found the queer little dwellings quite comfortable in a rough way and wonderfully clean. The hospitable Norths boiled a Billy made tea & offered us bread and jam. Apologising that there was no butter until the mail-man came, cake, & biscuits all baked in a camp oven.The little boy, Rolfe, was having his schooling by correspondence method– and showed me his books which were exceedingly creditable for a boy of eight. His spelling also good. Mr North showed us opal that he had fossicked for & gave us some small pieces.We took some photos and went to see more opals that a buyer,

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Mr Burford had for sale. I bought a specimen We decided to lunch inside his dug-out– as an experience. We had barely finished when there was the cry that the mail man and the camp meat rations had come. All the inhabitants crowded around the girl who did clerk & the meat distributer going off with sacks of meat. This is brought up from Kingoonya once a week.A man from Adelaide staying for short time on the field was taking “moving pictures” of the unusual sight. We stayed a considerable time & were able to obtain directions about the available tracks to Oodnadatta. Our track now took us through rough country– at times very distinct at others difficult to follow– and some of the party had to get out & prospect. At Coober Pedy to date £100,000 worth of Opal obtained– Discovered before the War. Not much working done until 1914. Said to have produced £24000 worth of Opal in 1920! Consequently a slump in the Market.

Page 8 In red ink (Coober Pedy, Working In red ink The opal quartz is taken from near the surface shafts may go down about 15 ft. we went over low hills, were for a time on table land and went through many dry creeks, & small water courses: the car being asked to take a nose dive occasionally down one side then up the other. Ten miles out we were following a dry creek with occasional claypans with plenty of water. The sun set and we decided to camp for the night near some light bushes among many coloured stones. at 5.15. we had had a puncture spare wheel put on. No animal or bird life except some small birds resembling ground larks. Very odd formation of hills, red cliffs and a beautiful orange coloured soil– Stones that looked like the pebbles of a sea beach. A small bush with a flower resembling a fuchsia once seen. Monday July 9 Beautiful sun-rise. Started. at 9.10 Bright sky flecked with cloud. Cold wind. Cook gave us a particularly good breakfast of rissoles & chipped potatoes. Little contretemps are over looked such as tea more than delicately flavoured with petrol caused by cook mistaking the water- tin. The damper otherwise excellent made with sugar instead of salt. Stopped at one of the water holes for radiator water. Passed Mt. Barrie 10.30. Passed 8 wild horses & a foal. Crossing one creek the big car stuck. All hands to the rescue. The bank dug out & lowered & Mr. Bond successfully got her up. Robbie valiantly following. At another Robbies’ car went first ours wasss hitched on and we were towed out successfully. One creek possesses the name of Kulvegalinna 12 15 another bad creek got through. Three cheers for the Studebaker & drivers 12.30 another creek. Stuck again! Got out with credit Robbie did brilliantly. Many more creeks.

Came to creek with what looked like Broughton Willow– & Mallee. Camped Evelyn Creek. 86 miles from Oodnadatta for lunch. Went on through the most fearsome gibber country almost boulders which the car had to negotiate. For about 10 miles we drove up hill & on table land down hill some times getting to steep inclines & precipices– and through stones & sand till at last we saw with joy a roof in the distance. Just then Robbie had a puncture. We turned back to help him. At 5.45 reached Archaringa homestead. A nice looking boy his father, & some blacks a young one & a middle aged man. Archaringa (should be Arka-nika, Emus Foot) belongs to Mr. Mcleod. The adjoining Station Nilpena. Archaringa about 54 miles from Oodnadatta. The McLeods most hospitably wanted us to stay the night & provided us– as

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______we thought ourselves much too large a party to trespass on their good nature–with meat & bread & cake. The son Alick McLeod rode his motor-bike, new and evidently a fascination at break neck speed ahead of us to show us where to camp at a dry creek beside a waterhole. Said there were worse roads than the one we came “the unmade ones”– Considering the time spent in looking for the faintest of tracks this amused us. Mr. & Mrs. McLeod & Alick came down to our camp & spent the evening. The Wireless was turned on. The Boss & Robbie were occupied oiling greasing & tightening up, changing the battery & so on. More curiously flavoured tea!

Page 10 written evening of Tuesday July 10 Awoke to hear Robbie called in loud tones by cook to “get up or he would be frost-bitten” The boy Alick tore down on his motor bike with freshly baked rolls for our breakfast. Beefsteak & onions! Last night Mr. McLeod told us many interesting details about the country. The legend of the name is– that an Emu in by-gone ages came down to drink at the creek. – and got stuck in the mud & died. In course of time the body went the way of all flesh– but the foot imbedded in the mud turned to stone. There are many petrified shells found in the district Mr. McL gave us a few cockle& mussel shells now fossils. He told us that 150 feet down a bore some rock was blasted out & imbedded in the solid rock was found a large live frog very much inflated with water It was intended to send it to the Adelaide Museum but when taken into the air the frog collapsed like balloon. Tommy the black man was much interested in the cars particularly the big one When asked if he would like a ride in it he shook his head saying “He all same one big train”. Trees about the creeks called “Gidgee” also there is “Myrtle”, ”Box” Mr. McLeod sends cattle down for sale at Adelaide from Warenna 75 miles off– or from Oodnadatta or Mt Dutton. Very strongly against the Government (Commonwealth) trucks Left about 9.15– Alick piloting us a little way. Reached Oodnadatta before 1. Lunch (very good) at the Transcontinental Hotel. the only one! Wrote letters & post-cards & posted them. a mail going out that afternoon. Another tomorrow. All our baggage transferred to the big Study– and the other left behind for our return Started again 5.15 & went on about 35 miles before camping. Most of the road sandy but very good. Went through bed of dry lake.

Wednesday July 11. On of our first sights was a team of camels coming into Oodnadatta 30 camels, one riding camel & foals. Told that it cost £30 a ton to take goods from Oodna. to Alice Springs. About 10 reached Hamilton Bore the bore water quite hot runs about ½ a miles making a lagoon around which reeds have grown & bull-rushes To our disappointment there was no time allowed for bathing as we had to press on being so late. We kept along the telegraph line, the steel posts of which look remarkably slender. Occasionally we noticed that a post would be twisted probably by wind A camp by the lagoon had a number of natives besides two white men. The water of the bore is quite hot & it was curious to see vegetation growing between stones where the water almost too hot for the hand & covered over. At 10 to 12 were at Blood’s Creek Station a most folorn & sad very much “bush” hotel. We were much amused by a race-course where they had had races lately. We were told that at the last meeting there were 40 blacks and 20 whites. The good looking woman who came

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______out to talk to us said she had been up a few months but had been up there off and on before & liked the life greatly. The untidiness & carelessness of the place was not attractive. The country terribly dry. Dead horses here & there– Took photos of a camel team. Camped for lunch 1.15. Charlotte Waters about 3.15 The telegraph station built like a fort stone & pug & round stone buttresses at corners to strengthen, as there was no lime in the mortar in the early days. Mr. B. sent telegram. & got news from home. The keeper of the hotel post office etc had been there 40 years Two black men had shot an emu & displayed its rather gory carcass on a barrow– good meat they said– They cook it on a fire burning off the feathers at same time After leaving Charlotte Waters saw another camel team on ground being loaded. At 4 stopped by sand hill, water in radiator boiling furiously About here & indeed all along our track there were an enormous number of caterpillar ”nests” added in red ink Charlotte Waters very desolate & dreary.

Page 12 in the trees*: \added in red ink cassia, acacia, & giddea scrub also Mulga/ they seemed empty– but in some places the trees had been stripped of leaves by the pests Passed trees strongly resembling old Olive trees Got to New Crown Station (Sir S. Kidman’s) about 5. Desolate & dry in the extreme. The inmates of the station homestead hardly remembered rain! Managers name Hayball. Spoke to Mr. & Mrs. Hayball & a nice looking– probably English– Anglican Parson. Asked us in to have tea but we wanted to get on. At 5.30 passed Crown Hill \or “Point”/ which we photos & saw an enclosed grave by the track with neat white head stone. About 6. came to the North South railway being constructed, & passed three camps of Navvies. in bare sand dry leafless bushes not a sign of vegetation. Desolation. About 4 miles further got into horrible sand– but the car pulled through splendidly. Came to a very large navvy camp where a bore was being put down. Mr. Bond found a friend, an engineer Stan Ferroll. He put us on the right track– but to our disgust we had to go back about 5 miles to where we had seen a rough sign-post with Finke on it a lorry followed us but we left it & turned across the line coming into timbered country with gum-trees. and found the Finke a very broad sandy water course which has had no water for about 7 years. Camped before we went in by some rocks about 7.30. In red ink The Native name for the Finke said to be Lirambenda Lira– creek Mbenda– permanent water, or spring– According to Professor Spencer the Natives called the Finke “Larapinta”, or “Flowing Water” Empties into the Gulf of Carpentaria about 1000 miles away. The Arunta tribe of Aboriginals live about the Finke: the largest tribe in Central Australia. Near Crown Point is a very interesting & curious hill called “Chamber’s Pillar” but Mr. Bond did not go out of his route to take us there.

Thursday July 12. Very cold last night. Up early. Bitterly cold at breakfast time glad to warm fingers at fire. Took photos of the camp remains Cook washing up. Another of car with Robbie on top. Very fine cliffs & rocks. go through the first Finke crossing easily with the aid of a spade, matting, & [ …?] track. Took snap of car crossing Finke on matting Met 3 car loads of navvies– one being the mail-man on a M.C. truck another a [ Risford? ] they good humouredly helped to push car up bank & were regaled with whiskey. Carried a puppy rather nondescript– The mail man

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______trying to get through before the others stuck in the sand, & had to be helped out with our matting! Quite near was a blacks camp & some navvies horses & donkeys and a yard full of goats 10.a m. More desolate country. Fine crags and sugar loaf peak in distance. Sand everywhere and hardly a living tree– dead bushes. Following the telegraph line. 10.20 Coming through Spinifex and (possibly) bull-oak. 11 20 nearing a table-mountain \In red ink Horse- shoe Bend/ Passed high sandstone cliffs. A flock of black cocatoos– a donkey team. Came to a neat little house– the local hotel. Miss Roper & Mrs. Elliot came out to speak to us. Mis Roper had a little niece a child of about 8. Mr. Amies offered us shandy gaff which we accepted. These sandy regions make one very thirsty. There has been no rain here for seven years then the the Finke came & was impassable for lorries for 9 months. Everything brought on camels They told us this was a specially dusty day– It certainly was unpleasant on the plains. Went sucessfully through the Finke again. Mr. Bond took snap with my camera of crossing after Horse Shoe Bend the place we had just stopped at so called from a bend of the river resembling a horse shoe. About 12 drew near a mountain peak so white it looked covered with snow the illusion being helped by the bitter cold wind. 12.20 approaching quite a

Page 14 chain of table mountains– At L. stopped for lunch between some sand hills a very sheltered spot– Started again 2.10. Donkeys horse. Spinifex & sand. Mr. P. tells us that last year the spinifex was in car & so high as nearly to hide car. Getting near the Macdonnell ranges. Curious change of colour in the low craggy hills– bright orange-red sand hills change to a hill of dark grey stone. We went through the “Trajic Mile” before 3– a most unpleasant tract of country for motor car & chauffeur. But the car behaved splendidly & we pulled through safely. Met a motor car a little further on looked as if stuck but took no notice of us & didn’t ask for help. Huge red sand hills. Went through Denny White’s Soak where water is got by going down into the sand about 3 feet– Vegetation, Bull-oak & acacia. At 20 to 4 as we were going through spinifex & sand & getting near the mountains– there was a loud report & the right back tyre burst. Got wheel changed. 4.15. Went through between two very tall black oak trees standing like sentinels & old land marks for the track. Took a snap. 4.30 passed a rise on which were “stone walls” curious ridges of stones looking like Irish stone walls & similar to those in the Flinders Ranges. To left range of low hills of red sand 4.15 Came to a little homestead “Maryvale” The man who came out to speak to us said the last rain he had seen was in 1923. just before 6 passed a bore. Black. about 60 miles from Alice Springs. About 6 got to Deep Well homestead camped for our evening meal & afterwards pushed on to Alice Springs– all very weary & quite inclined to sleep indoors if rooms were procurable as it was 11 oclock The house “Stuart Arms” kept by Aileen Kilgariff was in darkness & everyone asleep. However the Cook’s knocking produced the host at last & comfortable rooms were given to all who didn’t want to camp out. Oh the joy of sheets, a large jug of water a dressing table Woke in the morning cocks crowing a family of puppies assisting

Alice Springs– Friday July 13. a comfortable breakfast about 9. everything very clean. A halfcaste girl brought warm water and I did a little laundry-work. Wrote postcards to friends Mrs. Kilgariff taking charge of them

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______as she said there would not be a regular mail for a fortnight but some one going through might take them. The post-office is two miles away. We walked over to the hostel where Sister Inglis and Siter Cavenagh nurse and attend to all sick people brought in. There is no doctor nearer than Oodnadatta If the patients need more attention than can be given at Alice S they have to be taken the 360 miles. Yesterday the two nurses had to perform an operation on a man. It was urgent and he was suffering much from an abcess on the abdomen with other complications. It was successful & he was doing very well. The cost of getting their provisions very high £20 a ton by rail to Oodnadatta £30 a ton by lorry from there to A. Springs. Camels are cheaper £17 per ton but many things cannot be sent by camels. The hospital was very airy & clean. Designed for good venilation & coolness. In summer an electric plant similar to Delco pumped air from below through the house. The nurses quarters on an upper story with steep little stairs resembling a ship’s companion way. The two nurses do all the work helped by a half-caste girl. I went to the back of the hotel to see the half-castes’ camp– was horrified by the number confined in one space. (About 60)– Photoed 32 children– They go to school in the afternoon– the white children in the morning. The blacks have only 1 ½ hours lessons. Mrs. Kilgariff told us many very painful things about the half castes & blacks. She thinks that all that is being done for them only brings about worse moral conditions. The blacks camp near by is left alone by the white men as the dirt is univiting– but the ½ caste girl taught to be clean is only treated as if she is an animal. It took much packing up and loading of petrol £3 a case. Stopped at Stuarts telegraph station. The officer showed us over and took us to see the batteries 1260 battery cells to work the line Then showed us the photophone & rang up Ryan’s well to say we were coming. Can speak to Barrows Creek or anywhere on the line without any interference with the telegraph. They work in shifts keeping going all night. At 5 to three crossing mountains– \Red/ granite boulders. (called the “blacks’ Compound”

Page 16 They have often no meat nor milk– no cows at present– all dead or too poor. They get bogged in waterholes & one of the occupations at present is digging the poor beasts out Horses are too weak for use. Frosty nights lately. Four years drought of rain came useless at present Feed doesn’t grow– October to March rains bring on feed. 2500 sq miles contains 280 people. 3.45 going over the ranges many white ant hills red sand. At Horse-shoe bend Stuart told they made the hard tennis Court out of anthills pounded & moistened & rolled. Track delightful. 4.20 Flat, desolate country, not a blade of grass or a bush. Told that this time last year grass was waving and almost hid the car & lovely wild flowers. Now all is shrivelled & parched Quite a number of Kangaroos. The men tried to shoot one with their usual want of success as sportsmen. 4.30 Passed Kelly’s Well, & blacks’ camp. White-ant hills pigeons, & kangaroos. Black ants nests a perfect circle with crater in middle very neatly surrounded with a thatch of grass. About 6 reached Ryan’s Well homestead. Mr. & Mrs. Nicker and pretty daughter came out to see us. Daughter educated Melbourne but liking the bush life. Showed us snake skin a beautiful Blacks’ stone knife and the shoe in which they can walk silently to approach a victim. We went on after a pleasant chat with them about a mile further & camped for the night. Not nearly so cold.

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In red ink Trees we have seen may be Blood-wood, Beef-wood, White-wood, Belar.

Saturday July 14. Set out earlier this morning tents [ …?] much packing done before breakfast soon after 7. Off at 8.20. At 9 got to Prouses’ Gap Fine crags about which rock wallaby jumped. Red sand a tree like auoraugi with bright green leaves or that would be bright green if there was any moisture. among Eucalyptus bushes acacia casuarinas etc. great numbers of ant hills. Some smaller trees like sugar gums– Sometimes the very white-trunked gums. Trees resembling pomegranates– Pigeons, galahs, also quondong or sandlewood bushes, Everything very shrivelled About 9.45 came to Miss Lock’s Black camp where she treats sick blacks teaches the children & partially feeds them. Trusts to faith for her supplys which come very irregularly from the Inland Mission. She put the children through some exercises– It was remarkable what tiny children were able to pick up hymn tunes Some had opthalmia & skin diseases. None were at all robust. Near by was a camp with some very old people & their half starved dogs– Their water got by digging down in the sand– when exhausted they have to move– She had a tent & built onto it a worlie– Neat and quite comfortable– children dressed in all sorts of garments one in his skin only. She She showed us a blacks “damper” made of the seeds of some plant pounded up & made into a dough a very dark red brown in colour. The Cook gave her some birds that had been cooked. They seemed short of food. Said the rabbits which they sometimes caught were so thin there was nothing on them Saw a large Dingo among the bushes At 11. went through a sandy creek. Cattle. Ti-Tree well– more cattle very poor. Ti-Tree well supplies 1000 head of cattle. No feed about there but better further back. The station usually sends cattle to the market via Oodnadatta but this year they are too weak to travel. Ordinary times have a 13 inch rainfall Worse drought for 40 years. added note Tea - \or/ Tree

Page 18 Rain now would make the herbage good but not the grass which will not grow while the weather is cold Ti-Tree station a rough log shanty. When the cows are weak Dingoes attack the calves. 11.30 Black man & three camels one of which he was riding. Lunch Stirling Station a quarter to 3 20 miles from Barrow Creek. 3.45 Barrow Creek The telegraph Office a neat substantial, stone building We seny wires & Mr Bond received some. I sent one to Charles. Very warm in sun. We went to the bore for water pumped up by natives A large flock of goats. some drinking from trough a government-bore, & building. 5.20 going through very droughty country Dwarf gums Mallee myrtle. Orange bushes Stopped at 6.10. country looked as if it had had a little rain to start some undergrowth beneath the bushes. Sap evidently rising. Was \told/ that in places where there had been no rain the same is observed. Camped about 6.15. 30 miles from Barrow Creek. Miss Lock’s Camp is at In red ink Harden’s Soak about 100 miles north of Alice Springs. Sunday July 15. Up early and started about 8.20. 10.30 passed pair of Emus got 2 snaps of huge stone boulders– sand-stone. 10 30 passed Bonney’s Well. These huge rocks knows as the “Devil’s Marbles.” Stopped at 12 for lunch. Sand. Ant hill country. Very red. About 2 got to Kelly’s Well. Took water Found our matting had dropped off. Decided to go on and send a wire about the loss. Plenty of “blue” gums. Got to Tennant Creek about 4. Mr. Woodroffe and Mr.

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Smith really “Sidney Churchill-Smith” but he says “plain Smith is good enough for the bush. Mr. W. made us tea & gave us cake They were most hospitable and pressed us to stay the night We decided to do so. They gave us dilightful baths– the men the shower in the bathroom & Mrs. B & me a tub with nice warm water in the “guest” room. We much appreciated it and had a good tidy up. Mr Woodruffe took us to see his In red ink Tennant Creek– called after John Tennant Port Lincoln. garden. A small plot where a half-caste boy girl were drawing water. Tomatoes were very large and though no clouring yet promised to do so soon. Cabbages were flourishing lettuce fit to [ ? ] a turk’s-head and other marrows & excellently grown. Near the house are two oleander bushes. Tea was a cheerful meal with cold meat lettuce, salad, radishes, cucumbers. Fresh cows’ milk & some cream all prepared by the man. Half castes wash & clean but do not touch food. Prepare their own in their own part We were told it took £20 per ton to get potatoes, onions up from Adelaide. After supper we had a musical evening with the gramophone. To bed at 10 sleeping in our tents as usual, pitched close to the homestead. Monday 16 July Called early. A windy night which however the tents stood. Mrs. B. went through her bed! Another of the pleasing little accidents. Cook brought us hot water! Breakfast with our hosts. Eggs & bacon. 7.20. The men gave us books to take with us or will we exchanged ours with them. to bring again on way back. Started 8.30. Not very far on a kangaroo was shot. & the skin only saved as it was an “Old Man”. Ant-hill country. About 11 went through Creek with gum trees & a pool of water. 10 to 12 Banka Banka Station; desolate country very stunted Mulga. Only a bush shanty with derelict motor cars & other conveyances. general untidiness Mrs Bond brought out however 2 nice cups of tea to us in the car. Stout man we were told was the local policeman.x in pencil 12.20 some different vegetation curious red grass. Kangaroo grass. patches of flowers which seemed to have been everlastings at 12.20 got to Helen’s Springs Pretty little place by creek in pencil Mundoon

Page 20 Powells Creek Some new trees. \like jurrajongs/ Rose coloured oleander & yellow tecoma in garden Jacarandah & a pretty creeper on brush fence. Two girls came out to speak to us. told about a big station on Queensland border 8000 sq. miles 80 000 head of cattle. Bush like sage. Powells’ Creek in afternoon. A large bungalow residence with broad latticed verandah. Telephone station. Taken to see the garden by Mr Fogarty– Mr Supple–, the relieving officer joining us there. The garden by a well & creek– a most delightfully shady spot where were growing various tropical fruits & vegetable with peas beans cabbages marrows tomatoes. Gave us some beautiful tomatoes just ripening. Growing Bananas paw-paws plantains tamarind. Mango trees, paper bark tree. pointseania Bauhinias The sun very hot seven months of the year. Thermom 120 degrees. Snapped the bungalow. Stayed some time. Mr S. only there 4 months ago. Camped miles & miles from Powells Creek 50 miles from Daly Waters Very warm still. Tuesday 17th. July

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The night turned cool a wind sprang up, able to sleep under the sleeping suit. Quite cold early morning; Early breakfast off by 8. Pretty scrub. Large leafed gum. Red grass– (Desert Crab-hole). 9.30 met man his wife droving horses with some blacks, come from \Helen’s Springs– Passed/ short grass. Gum trees by creek. Forest of low bushes like box. at 10 met camel team 40 animals a black man & woman told they carry 5 tons– for 8-40 miles a day according circumstances. At Creeks gum trees–Forest of bushes like boxthorn.

Tues. 17th. July short grass. Open spaces with no timber–good aerodromes! 10 20 Robbie & Cook shot a hawk. Much “red” grass. 10.45 Startled 3 native companions Saw more naked blacks & a large Dingo. Newcastle Water & the station–a stone bungalow The Police Station near by an iron building very unimposing but supposed to have cost £3000! Inhabitant of the bungalow a taciturn individual who had been there 11 years It is said that the £3000 building will have to be moved by the govnt next year to the rail-station 4 miles away–or the railway taken to the police station! Name of telephone master Birkelt. Stopped at 1. for lunch Flies very bad. A well and windmill & large tank. 6 miles from Daly Waters. Robbie shot some galahs. They were there in millions–also flock of shell parrots. Passed a grave in enclosure this morning. Acacias struggling to bloom got into a better part less droughty-looking–A few trees among the Mulga etc like myrtles casuarinas peppermint(?) Found men [ .?. ]off and preparing open spaces for aerodromes. A few magpies–not the same variety we have in Clare. At 3.30 came to a bore very warm. Huge anthills. Got into very pretty scrub. A great varietiey of trees–crimson & purple tree trunks eucalypts of sorts At 4 oc. took a snap of the bush track–a forest of trees. 20 past four–a bore windmill & water-hole. Black Cocatoos. Instead of wobbling about corrugated tracks had a clean hard road. In the morning had gone over 15 miles of corrugated hard track axcruciating for the driver. 5 oclock–at Daly Waters– group of buildings. Large bungalow & a telegraph Station Thatched huts. Creek with a pool of stagnant water–The usual blacks. Little vegetable patch. Bungalow on piles. Latticed verandah

Page 22 Camped by well with big windmill (government) a very pretty spot. Variety of vegetation. Very warm. Decided to sleep outside my sleeping bag. The petrol tank had been found to be leaking so Mr. Bond & Robbie had to empty it and solder up. They worked till midnight at the car–Taking advantage of abundance of bore water (hard but otherwise good) we did some washing out–and extra bathing for ourselves. As I was asidulously writing up I could find no seat but the “dining table” which had been cleared but suddenly discovered that the laundry work was proceeding at the other end & I sitting in a pool of suds which had drifted my way! I retired early! and my soaked garments were hung in various places till morning to get themselves dry. Wednesday 18th. Started 9.30. The car was finished before breakfast which I ate with my usual bush hunger. A variety of Eucalypts Tall grasses. 11 20 passed another well. Pretty scrub country, crimson blossom scrub. Some eucalyptus in bloom. Gathered wild oranges, in colour and foliage precisely resembling oranges not much bigger than a large marble, but when the rind is

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______peeled there is a white substance surrounding small \a bean like/ seed impossible to eat, with an intense bitterness resembling Nux Vomica. Trees resembling Cootamundra Wattles. Passed another well–\(No 2. bore)/Very pretty trees & shrubs. Kangaroo grass & swampy grass. Came to a shanty where a man told us he intended to open an “Eating House”. Kept goats & fowls. Stopped at 12 30 No1 bore. Very pretty spot Lit fire as usual & had lunch. Sun very hot. Some wild flowers here. Many birds drinking at trough. Wax-bills diminutive pigeons. A larger kind–\three zebra Finches/ a small dark bird with white on tail. Pink everlastings a little mauve flower. Off again 2.15–Red leaves, .carpet of everlastings Beautiful colouring in vegetation. Kept by telegraph line at times & a great deal by a creek with fine gums hakias & very pretty trees. Some very unpleasant “corrugated” road. About 3 passed a caterpillar tractor drawn up at side of track & spoke to the 2 men with it whose complexions & arms were suggestive of red in drains from the sun. Took snaps (2 30) of a huge anthill the car & Robbie to in red ink X show height & got branches of a pretty bush masses of pink to carmine flowers. 3.10 Warlock–a lagoon. Bushes resembling almond trees. Got some drinking water from the tractor. Before 4 man with team of horses Were able to pull off on a side track & let them pass. They were bound for No 2 Bore. Hoped to get there with the heavily laden dray in 4 days. At 4 were passing tall ant hills which instead of being red were almost black. Came to a bread-fruit palm. in red ink X. Cook climbed it & brought down two fruits. A cotton bush with cotton–a camp. Variety in plant–life. One like an evening primrose in red ink Pandanus–

Page 24 Came to a very tidy camp just by roadside. The owner Mr. McNiece was with Shackleton in the South pole Expedition in 1912. Afterwards in the air force. His wife lives with him. Away for a holiday. We were about ½ way between Warlock station & Warlock Railway Station. His shack known as Malaranka or “Canvass town”! Told us the Aeneas Gunns’ station was close to Warlock which we had passed. He had been over 3 years at South Antartic. afterwards at the front. Now in gov service: roads etc. 5.30 a puncture & large wood splinter right through tyre. Mr. B. put in spare wheel. Passed a quantity of orange coloured bottle brush a tall shrub, by the creek which we occasionally crossed & kept near. Good rees near creek. Lagoons of water. Mr. McNiece had caught a small crocodile in one. More bread-fruit trees. Bauxias with small. green bottle brush flowers. Tree with small roundish leaf of dark green–“Black Ebony”. Camped for night about 7.15 in a fairly clear spot–Mrs. Bond terrified to be in the long grass (like kangaroo) of which there is such a quantity now– Everywhere flies very annoying, midges & flying beetles–& a few mosquitoes at night. Dingoes about–Several attempts to shoot turkeys–but never got near them. Pleasant evening. To bed at 10.

Thursday J. 19. The night moderately warm chilly at dawn–Breakfast about 7.30. Mr. Bond Robbie,& even Mr Amies hard at work mending tyre blowing up and preparing for the entry to Katherine. Much bird life. Doves cooing. Mr. Robb brought me some ‘blood gum’ like a ruby in colour: some snail & mussel shells. Off at 9. Shortly after passed a lagoon on which were pink water lilies. cattle & horses. 10.a.m. Very dry country trees looking very bad. Very bad track for motor–At 12 got to Marramboy 40 miles from Katherine rough rocky country where there had been

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______prospecting for gold.\or tin/. Passed blacks shanty & two black boys fine well-made lads but very sophisticated when told we wanted to take their photos they posed with spears in their hands as if used all their lives to acting for tourists! Gave them some tobacco & cook bought their weapons for 2/. Grey ant hills. A hospital. Police Station. Police Station, Various huts & houses Tin mining–a township of 60 people getting a poor price for tin at present. A nice fresh clean looking policeman with delightful scotch accent came out to speak to us. Dressed in singlet,& khaki trousers, broad felt hat–name of U. A mining battery on hill– 10.30 On way through hills. Very rough. Some dreadful parts going through small waterless creeks–Occasionally it would change to smooth sand track–then again to some of the worst road we have experienced very trying for the driver. “Cabbage” gums Blood Wood Iron Wood (poisonous to goats) Mrs. W. had a plant on the dining room table bright green variegated got near lagoon. A sprig placed in water starts to grow. Renew without changing the water every day & in 3 wks there is a spreading creeping plant very decorative. Known locally as “The Devil to grow”!

Page 26 in red ink Katherine Were told that it would probably take us 4 hours to reach Katherine–but at 2 ½ we saw roofs and passed untidy shanties & a creek which we thought to be the Katherine but discovered later was not When we came to the town-ship found a, very unprepossessing untidy scattered collection of houses of a sort. Pulled up before a low bungalow which was the hotel. Found it much better than its first view made us imagine. Had quite a good lunch. Talked to the proprietor Mr. Gill–& the waitress a sad looking nice mannered woman Mrs. Williams. also Mr Berg, & the cook Mr. Sheehan–who showed us photos of the blacks. A fine tribe near Katherine with fine customs & strict morals according to their ideas. Mr. W. said they were excellent workers Very trustworthy about money etc–and most dependable far more than the whites they had there. A very cosmopolitan crowd though some fine men among them. Heard that the hotel had been declared “black” by the N.A.W.U. because he employed a black man–and they couldn’t employ the black women for the laundry work for this reason so Mrs. W. & Cook had to do the hotel washing in addition to everything else Told that the declaration “black” hadn’t otherwise made any difference Took £200 at the bar this day. Told there were crocodiles & alligators and something between both in the river & lagoons. The station master’s name Cummings. Mr. Bond made arrangement for our going on by rail to Darwin Will have to wait till tomorrow at 1. No room on todays train which is really a “goods”. Were told that the railway construction workers have kept Katherine but the government (Commonwealth) have stopped the works for the present & that 900 men have been dismissed 150 went off yesterday. Now the place will be very quiet. Waitress Mrs. Williams. Official name of Katherine Rail Station Emun-go-lan– Aug. 1926 The first train crossed the bridge–

In red ink Katherine Friday 20th July We camped last night quite near the “town”. I had headache after my nose had been bleeding–& as Cook had lit a fire & I had been allowed a [ .?. ]usually generous amount of hot water I had a good wash & went to bed. Tea we had at the hotel. We also breakfasted

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______there. The tables very nice and clean & quite good food. We went to see Mrs. Cummings the Station-masters wife who lives in a neat bungalow opposite hotel–Saw a little boy [ .?. ] going to school a very fine specimen for the Territory. She & her husband looking forward to a holiday in October when they go away for five months not having had a holiday for 4 years. House on piles for coolness. Does all her own work & looks very healthy. A saying there that “nothing goes away from Darwin but simply beer cases & government officials”. Mrs Sheehan gave us photos of the blacks. Our Studebaker car was parked in the Enclosure by the Station Masters’ house & some of our belongings left in charge of Mrs Cummings car covered by tarpaulin. Had lunch about 12. At one oclock were on board the train for Darwin. –Narrow gauge. Corridor cars dingy but not uncomfortable & the journey not as hot as we expected– Train also much quicker. Got to Pine Creek at 3.40 instead of 6 as we expected. At Katherine Cook presented me with some small brown native figs. found them very dry inside, full of seeds–and Ants, no flavour. Coming in passed lagoon with pink lilies At U a lorry met rain & took our luggage to hotel a low Bungalow with latticed wide verandahs runing around. My room a portion of same verandah–with door opening out of the Bonds’ room, another into verandah by billiard room & a third into the general bath room! a shower with cement floor. Room provided with some blinds & mosquito net on beds.

Page 28 Saturday 21. July We mealed in the Coffee room, another portion of verandah as more private than the inside dining room. Bed was so doubtful that I slept on the coverlet–being war,, a silk nightie was sufficient, at first–but the usual chill came at dawn & I was glad to look for something wooly to throw over me. The proprietress Mrs. Davis warned us to look out for “Singapore” ants which had made their appearance there. Very tiny black ants looking innocent enough but were told their bites raise weals on your skin. In the evening there were quite enough flying creatures about, attracted by the lights, who ventured down my back & crawled over me wherever possible, without any added biting insect life. With the mosquito net I passed a peaceful night. We got more information about crossing the Katherine & getting to Darwin by car–the general opinion being to our great disgust, that we could have done it quite well–our [ .?. ] being that we had been through so much that the track could scarcely be worse than our experiences already. A threatening sunset last night, but clouds cleared off. Talked to little girl and some people sitting outside the hotel. Our train left about 8. On the train the superintendant of Railways Mr. Milligan who was very kind in stopping the train occasionally so that we could photo some object of interest. passed tall ant hills 9 or 10 feet high. Before leaving Pine Creek snapped large Anthills opposite hotel and a fine tree with rough bark & dark-green foliage. Saloon \corridor/ cars small–said to be used on this line 40 years ago–when the line was made for the mine at Pine Creek. Said to have been used first on the Glenelg to Adelaide line. There are said to be 319 bridges in 167 miles on this little from P. Creek to Darwin. The Anthills about here look like carved stone or wood. Large railway bridge crossing The Katherine. Plenty of water. The Pine Creek hotel has to pay Cook £5- a week.

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Saturday July 21 20-9 stopped at a little place rather pretty with hills near and neat little Cottages. A pretty little girl in riding breeches & shirt came for mail. Burrundio–Quantities of orange hakia–& pink bush all the way huge Anthills generally grey in colour. and yellow acacia–9.45 Came to “Grove Hill”–No hill & no grove” as the guard facetiously remarked. The guards attire the ordinary one of the north–Khaki or white shirt, khaki or blue dungaree trousers. Hat of the sombrero variety (felt) often there is no shirt but a singlet. Their faces neck chest & arms are burned a rich copper. The men are usually finely built tall & muscular–though occasionally we met one or two who ran to fat in a remarkable degree. 10 “Fountain Head” Very dry country passed creek with clumps of Bamboo. Mr. Milligan ordered a special stop that we could photo some huge Anhills. I had Mrs Bond in foreground. Passed Brocks Creek. Howley. Where was a saw mill–the power to work which was supplied by a motor-car battery with one man in charge Another creek–quantities of Bamboo– Just before 12 reached Adelaide River Station where we stayed to lunch at neat little eating house bungalow-building. Nice cold food & salads good tea Had Paw-Paw to finish– Mr. M. stopped the train to let the party get out & photo bridge from different positions. At 3.30 another special stop to let us photo some very curious anthills. They are flat-sided & run with absolute accuracy North& South Known as the Magnetic Anthills Variety of eucalypts everywhere but other foliage, Yellow flowered shrub–like Frangipanni but with no foliage. A scarlet shrub–also no foliage Darwin at 5. A motor car took us & luggage to the Victoria Hotel. Mrs. Gordon welcomed us. Very full beds everywhere. Cattle stealing case to be tried Monday brings many people to Darwin. A telegram awaiting me at hotel from Allan C. Mine the only wire received by the party.

Page 30 In red ink Port Darwin Sunday July 22 My wire from Allan last night rather puzzling “To Christian (?) Bonds Motor Tour. Darwin N.T. “bravo meet Ewart Eastern Extension fred about owner this house. Christian(?) love.” Rang up the East Extension today “Ewart” out. Had a great clean up & change into thin clothing before dinner. Quite a nice dinner at 6.30. The Bonds had a guest Mr Caird Robbie Mr [Annis?] & I at the table with them– Cook & the bushman at another. After dinner we chatted a while a nice naval man who was in the train (Mr Brewster) joined us: Mr. Bond proposed that we should go the the “Pictures”. “Scaramouche” was on. We were late getting seats though we were in good time for the picture & had to be provided with some right in the front rather near but we saw well. Very good. Half way through we went back to the hotel for cool drinks. Rather un-necessary as the theatre was in the open with only the stars above us, & there was a damp coolness in the air. It was going on for midnight when the performance was over, as a silly comic Felix picture was put on to the delight of the many children. I slept well in my mosquito netted bed. There was little privacy as my room on piles was detached with “windows” & doors opening out to court yard, or into a bamboo laticed big verandah where extra beds were made up and men making their toilets were plainly visible–I hope I wasn’t quite so conspicuous. The bathroom being next me I popped in early and had a more than delightful cold bath before breakfast– Discovered a Mr. & Mrs. Young staying turned out to be the Frank Youngs father & mother of Audrey, “Boy”\Honore/ & the others who stay with

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______the Hopes & have been so often at Weroona! Mrs. Young has been ill & so Mr. Young having come to the N.T. took her round by sea & she is considerably better for her trip.

Sunday 22nd. I went for a walk during the morning down to the water’s edge & through trees–& round some of the streets. The harbour very pretty. Quantities of mangrove trees to the waters’ edge give a rich green. There is a good built in bathing pool safe from sharks & crocodiles– which is much used when the tide is in. Tide goes out some considerable distance. After lunch Mr. Bond hired the Buick car we had yesterday from and we went for a drive the Bonds & I Mr Amies Mr Caird & Mr Brewster. Saw the Botanic gardens first–The Curator Mr. only just out of hospital having broken his ancle so we didn’t see him. Pretty grounds. Saw the Vestris Meat works which to the great loss of Darwin are not now working–Labour trouble being the chief cause Saw the monument to where Ross& Keith Smith landed their aeroplane, in Stopped a a lagoon where there were beautiful white water-lilies. Took a snap. Another interesting stop was where there were so many “Magnetic” white-ant hills in the grassy open space that it is known as the “cemetery”–the flat-sided anthills look so like tomb-stones. Jungly bush with a great variety of foliage & quantities of the pink bush called here “heather.” In the “gardens” a particularly lovely rose-pink Bouganvillea. The ordinary purple crimson one common here I gathered growing wild the same “pink” grass I have been growing in my garden. When we returned drinks went round & then we went for a walk to the coast where large tanks are being for a naval base oil and petrol enormous things–To be 11 of them each of the capacity of 80,000 tons. A little further we

Page 32 saw the huge machine for breaking down the cliff to make room for the monster tanks. Supper 6.30 After which I went off to church–but when I got there it was all in darkness so I thought my information that there was an evening service must be wrong as it was then 7.20. Returned to find a number of boys from the Government offices being entertained by Mrs. Bond. I was then told that the evening service is always at 8. I was tired so decided not to try again.

In red ink and underlined Darwin Monday July 23 After a very good night bath, & breakfast. At 9 went off to send telegrams. Found East Extension known as the B.A.T. & Mr. Ewart–who enlightened me as to the telegram He did not know Allan but the people of the house where he has the flat are Mr. Ewarts relations. Then sent wires to Bob Charles, Mr. Butfield. Met Mrs. Baird & Mr. Baird a young man in the Telegraph whose sister they know in Melbourne & we went to Mrs Bleeser’s Curio Shop I bought a little Chinese Enamel plate as a souvenir. Left Mrs B. buying largely and went off to hunt for a cool blouse the temperature being so much warmer than I expected but a thin voile being only suitable for the hotel not for the bush. Was unsuccessful but a Mrs. Foster a dear elderly lady living next door to Mrs. Bleesers’ said she would run one up for me. “B.A.T.” British Aust.n Telegraph

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Went over to Jolleys’ where I had bought photo films and got a piece of to match a blouse. Also got a piece of brown holland to line inside of my “artists’” case Back to hotel and washed my hair before lunch. Spent most of afternoon tidying up & writing. Went for walk late and got my blouse from Mrs. Foster. Quiet evening after dinner chatting to some of the boys. Asked Mr. Ewart to dinner–but he did not come and sent a message at 10 which I got next morning to say he had only got the message at 9 oc as he was away. Wrote our names in the hotel Visitors’ book before going to bed It contained the names of Bert Hinkler– Lord & Lady Stradbroke & Lord & Lady Apsley Miss Phillipa Bridges. The last Bagot touring party & others we knew of. Mrs. Gordon had been at Pine Creek before taking on the Darwin Hotel– Darwin very dead x alive. Wondered at the scarcity of fruit. Was told that there had been a scare about “Thrip” some when it was very bad in Queensland–The Com Government ordered all fruit trees to be cut down & discouraged the Chinese gardeners. It was found that there was no Thrip after all but the Chinese left and went down towards Pine Creek, & the Chinese remaining were not of the same class so there has been little gardening. Fruit is brought when steamers come in. There is only a monthly mail. Trees are growing up again & it is to be hoped that tropical fruits such as pineapples bananas & pawpaws will again be common

Page 34 The young men we met seemed a good stamp. One in the Mounted Police,”Apperton”–A nice young fellow (dark) Ashton–then Huppatz a boy name Rixton(?) just up–and others Have to stay 3 years \in the Post Office/ Young Ewart had been in Singapore. Found Darwin very dull after it They have electric light from Works & ice, however, now though not the comforts from Coolie Labour of Singapore A large cascara tree with enormous round beens at back of hotel. A bouganvillea over the front door. A common tree the “Poinseania” with leaf resembling The “B.A.T.” Eastern Extension Telegraph have only 2 years. Darwin only has a monthly mail– Young man (Adelaide) in mounted Police Apperton. 2 years “East Extension.”

Darwin Tuesday July 24th Up 6.30. Breakfast 7. Train left at 8. Buick Car took us to train. Mr. Brewster came to see us off. Mr. Gordon gave us warm farewell and some photos of Hotel. Mr. Baird came to train to say goodbye Nothing very special on way to Katherine We had a very small carriage (special) on a slow goods train. At Katherine River here we wit stopped for lunch in the pretty little [ .?. ] Amused myself doing a puzzle + word in the [ .?. ] magazine. Pine Creek at 5. Did not expect us but Mrs Davies gave us the same rooms and as the night threatened to be cold a warm rug for my bed. There had been a sharp shower at 10 that morning which layed the dust. In evening called to schoolmasters wife & child & wrote diary in office. Kapoc bushes in flower yellow flowers, no leaves. At 9 Came to the “Fergnon” river. Very pretty: deep water overhanging branches.

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Page 36 Inserted later at this point Pine Creek–Wednesday 25th. Breakfast 7. Train left a 8. Quite cold camped at railway line about 7 miles from Materanka Rail Station End of insert Reached Katherine at 11. Our Car all right. Men proceeded to load up again. We got our belongings left in Mrs Cummings care & had a chat with her. Petrol 31/6 at Katherine. Lunch at the Hotel at 12. The Cook Mr Sheehan came to see us at Station his day off Started again 10-2 after filling up with petrol–etc–got some sweets & pencils for me at the store next hotel. Said goodbye to the Cummings Thirteen miles from Katherine were passing some strange stone monoliths like Stonehenge– rocks placed on other rocks & much resembling a Druid’s Circle. Whether placed there by whites or by Blacks we did not know. 2.45 Again a little trouble with one of the springs which slips–5 past 3 lost a tin of oil which fell off & the car went over it 7 Miles from Kath. crossed rail-line: 32 m. crossed again. 33 m crossed dry creek [ .?. ]35 m crossed here again. 36. ms Bad drain. 62 m crossed telegraph line

Thursday July 26 Last night slept again in our tent. Very cold towards morning–my sleeping bag & rug did not seem sufficient. Left camp again at 9. Turned off to see Mr McNiece for few minutes Passed many Kapoc trees in bloom. Stopped for a time at Mataranka rail-station where they took in some supplies–I snapped railay man’s shanty. Three men were anxious to have a lift to Oodnadatta. Mr B. thought of trying to do it if they paid well for the trouble: but they did not come to terms. On the way to the Mataranka Station homestead passed a derelict motor lorry which had caught fire & was destroyed except the engine. When we got to the Homestead Mr Lowe received us most hospitably although they were unusually busy & worried over an Inquest which was being held there over a case of strychnine poisoning. He took us to see a lovely pool on the Waterhouse river a quarter of a mile away. Beautiful clear water overhung by beautiful trees & pandanus Water opalescent but clear as crystal. We walked there & afterwards our host insisted on our staying to lunch in their quaint and comfortable bungalow on tall piles. Their living rooms ascended to by an outside stair–and the dining room an open air room down below Mrs. Lowe, her little daughter & Miss Kenedy came out to invite us in– and waited on us. After lunch the Lowes got out their [Essex?] car and piloted us down to the Roper River, a few miles away. Showed us some beautiful spots plenty of fish of various kinds the largest a

Page 38 fresh water Bream. They also get fresh water mussels. We did not come away till 10 to 3. A great variety of trees. Beautiful clear, deep water–a fine river. The Roper flows into the Gulf of Carpentaria a distance of Mr. Lowe gave me the names of some of the trees the Pandanus a palm, or pine apple plant overhanging water Coolabah a fine leafed (pendulous) blue-green “gum”. Leichhardt Pine as he gave it a large-leafed gum Kidgebar (Paper bark) Eucalypt White Fig Resembling a Moreton Bay & Banyan but not the Banyan root habit– Fresh-water Mangrove

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The Pandanus when we came on it in the Scrub had been erroneously called by one of the Party Bread-Fruit. The natives certainly pound the fruit into a dry powder and make cakes of it. Another large leafed plant of which we had seen many he called a “plum”–& I understand it is edible. An Adelaide boy named Cornish from Darwin staying there & came out with us. Adelaide the recruiting ground for P.O. officials Mr. & Mrs. Lowe the kindest & most hospitable people possible. We struck a new track and camped about 6. “George” having shot another turkey. Stew for tea, meat very tough–just procured from the Station. Cook seemed to stay up all night cooking turkey! Camped 124 m. from Katherine.

Friday 27th. At 10 passed broken down lorry on track Orange tree with fruit. 145 m. crossed telegraph line, 10.4 Struck main track 149 m. 10.15 No. 2 bore. Had chat with man Mule with diseased legs like rickets–Some horses in team fairly good condition Left again 25-11 11. Punctured back tyre 156 m crossed Tel.line. Another turkey shot 190 miles from K. road very rough. Camped Strathmore bore for lunch. Ate one of the turkeys–George had cooked it last night. Flocks of Finches Eucalypt with almost white leaves. Small seeds. Went through pretty scrub again–Beside the rail line. Daly Waters 5-3 Took snaps at Daly Waters of the tree on which John McDouall Stuart carved his initial. Mr B sent a telegram. Very fine leafed trees in scrub like box. 247 m. from K Men pulling down trees with lorry to make a aerodrome. ¼ to 5 Amy’s Well. 10 to 5 Puncture back wheel again same side Camped as there was no hope of getting on

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Page 42 Sat. July 28 Left camp at 8. 8.20 a turkey was shot this time brought down at once just as it started to fly. Some very bright-green trees–as well as very dull olive green. Tiny leaf tree apparently a deciduous one–grows in thick clumps. An upright leafed Casuarina. 8.30 a grove of “wattles”, Black oak. 265 m. from Katherine–a very rough track. To the right a broad space prepared for Aerodrome 10. Apparently swampy ground in wet weather 280 m. from Katherine passed a well. 10.15 Passing over a bleak tree-less plain–the S.E wind sweeping it. Bitterly cold. We went over fifteen miles of this plain–then wooded country again about 10. saw herd of cattle Ant-hills again but some scattered stony bits: and low trees quite dead. More bare plain. 10 20 Dry bed of creek. Daly Waters 10.45. Water in lagoon quite white Did not stay. Stopped for lunch where there were some rough Eucalypts for shelter. Had fire as usual.& tea quickly made Had Turkey cold which cook had stewed last night 5 to 3. Got to Powells Creek 284 m. from Katherine. 3.15 going through quantities of Bohinia trees, and over low hills. Trees like olives. 3.20 passed through dry creek with uncomfortably steep banks at crossing. At 20 to 4 we were on high table land. About 4.30 reached Helen’s Springs. Had a chat with the two girls & their brothers. Pretty little puppies. Large flock of goats at homestead & mob of horses. About 90 m. from Tennants Creek.

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______passed through rather bad dry creek–which car took well. 5.20 mostly trees with “white- washed” trunks. Rough, stony track going over high lands

Page 44 Sunday July 29 Camped last night 50 miles from Tennants’Creek. Cold night. Mrs. Bond has passed the last two nights in the car, where Mr. Bond has slept all along. Mrs. B’s bed gave way & she left the tent. I had a good night very comfortable. We went to bed early being very tired. Had cold beef & pickles for tea as there was not time to cook anything as it was near 8 oclock when we had the meal. We had been nearly 8 hours without food and had done about 170 miles so were ready to turn in. The men lit an enormous fire piling wood against a small tree which blazed up–& limbs fell at intervals 9.20 had a stop Started 8.45. as spring moved, cattle on track. Some trees like bauxia, scraggy. Many dry creeks Bush like weeping broom Arrived at Tennants’ Creek about 12. Mr. Woodroffe & Mr. Smith welcomed us and gave us a very nice lunch. Took us to see the Store-house et.c. Showed us tins of fruit which the white- ants had bored through–& told us that at Darwin white ants had actually bored into billiard balls! Took photo of “the Cathedral” a quaintly built cellar! They kindly gave us lettuces grown by Mr. Woodroffe & Mr. Smith gave blacks’ weapons.

Sunday 29. The tinned food a revelation to me the Tasmanian tinned carrots being delicious. Mr. W. also showed us dried potatoes from Tasmania which he said were excellent. They gave us to read an amusing skit on the cam touring visitors they used to get further up the line. Their nearest neighbours 60 m. away. Mr. Smith asked me to thank the Victoria League for the books & papers sent, which were much appreciated. Their supplies are sent up from Adelaide a camel team taking them from Oodna.a government supplies them but they have to buy from the Govmt. Blacks employed on the station, the lubras go “home” to the blacks camp near at hand. We left about 3.15. Stopped about 4 miles further and scrambled up a hill to where a deep shaft had been put down when the field was working. Given up about a year ago. The hills very interesting rising straight from the plain. Very stiring. all kinds & colours in the stone– quartz reef supposed to contain gold. Went on afterwards till dusk & camped about 50 m– from Tennants Creek. Very cold. Our camp by a low ridge of hills crowned with rocks piled on the edge Creeks, always dry, are very numerous–We passed through eighteen today.

Page 46 Monday July 30th. Struck tents 8.30. I wanted to photo my tent as soon as sun was light enough but first Mr. Amies grabbed its contents & then Robbie the tent just as I turned round–The position was particularly favourable for the morning sun. Two bad dips into creeks gone through in 20 minutes 9 Passing through very droughty country. Dead, or half dead trees & bushes & poor remains of spinifex. Still ant hills. 10 Passed Bonneys? Well. Took water just passed through another steep banked creek. The well on a steep rise–Undulating very rough country. Many small dry water-courses & dry creeks. Rather better country before coming to the Devil’s

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Marbles where we all got out & took photos of the rocks. Many more small creeks. Twenty to 11 were passing through specially droughty country–dead bushes & ant hills. 10.5 passed Wycliffe Well. 11.15 lost track for a time but picked it up again Trees like Orange trees plentiful & very shrivelled & miserable a little trouble with a spring of car made us stop & we had an early lunch before 12. of cold roast Wild-turkey & peaches. Sketched a new tree–a Eucalypt to look at but no scent in leaves. A fruit very rough skinned like a grey pomegranate & very hard. About 40 miles from Barrows Creek. Passed patches of a plant like broom the foliage a beautiful red gold colour–no blossom. 1.15. Very droughty country. 10 to 3 another creek coming to “Stone wall” range of hills. Barrow Creek homestead & station 3.30 Mr Bond sent wires. Barrow Creek to Alice Springs 180 miles. 4.15–Stony bare plains again. No Anthills. Still the “gum” with fruits. going over high hummocks

Notices \on sign boards/ occasionally of Poison Bush. Like so many of these obnoxious plants cattle become immune when used to the country but strange stock succumb. A quarter to five “Stirling” homestead. Man came out to speak to us. Kidman bought the station last April. There are two kinds of Poison bush the “sage” about 1½ feet high, and the indigo which is a much larger bush with small heart-shaped leaves. We got a few fruits (green & rather soft) [ .?. ] not ripe glossy & like a guava. We passed through 30 miles of poison bush. 6.15 passed Mt Stuart Centre of Australia Turkeys, & kangaroos at various times–Cook tried to shoot turkeys unsuccessfully. The last three night the glow in the sky has been beautiful at sunset. Lovely soft rise melting into blue. Camped in light bushy country & made a huge fire Very still–The wind in morning had been very cold–towards afternoon much warmer Cold turkey again for supper with hot potatoes & onion–Cook’s special way. A tip from Cook — The roast turkey was really “boiled” a or rather simmered for 4 hours. It was delicious–far better than the dry bird it sometimes is roast– 6.15. \p.m./ Monday July 30th. Mt Sturt in red ink \Mt Stuart/ –Centre of Australia pencil sketch of the mountain written in red ink “Mt Stuart” is correct according to John McDouall. Stuarts’ own journal.

Page 48 Tuesday July 31. Late in starting 9.30 before we got off. Trouble in getting car to start, she was so cold. A very cold night–asked Cook for hot water in my bag. We got to the Ti Tree Station well at 10. Took water as man at the telegraph station said it was much better than at the next well The men of our party had to work the chain & windlass to bring up water in a billy. Very droughty. Black bird with white on tail galahs but little other bird life. Large black & white bird. 11.10 A Kangaroo hunt! All the men after one wallaby or young kangaroo! Robbie led the chase & ran well. No result! Wrote some ridiculous verses about it. 11.30 passing through Micky’s(?) gap. Red sand & spinifex–very droughty. Stopped at Ryan’s Well. I went into the house as Mrs. Nicker asked me. Mr Nicker gave me a shield & two weapons made by blacks. While we were there the “Pioneer” tourist party from Melbourne arrived–eleven in party 6 being tourists. They had two cars. They stopped a few minutes & went on. We took up Maggie Nicker who wanted to get to Alice Springs. We had lunch by the way in a pleasant bit of scrub. But everywhere the drought is terribly evident. The Nickers are feeling it greatly. So far they have not lost cattle but they are very poor & cannot last much longer–

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Hope for good rain September or October The country usually full of blossoming shrubs and flowers, & trees in leaf. Six inches of rain there is as useful as 26 inches in the northern territory.

In 1921 the Todd River ran for a month. That was their last good year. Railway coming on to Alice. Sand hills, scattered. Passed short green bushes with yellow flowers–not particularly pretty. Flowers in clusters. Passing Berts Well, now a government Reserve about 30 miles from Alice Springs Bert Ranges behind Bert’s Well. Bert’s Plain, now dry and bare said to be beautiful in good seasons Mitchell grass very useful for stock. Hundreds of kangaroos seen in early morning or evening. Passed by the Harry Waterhole about 5 miles from Bert’s Well. Needle-bush. Mulga–Small Blood-Wood–some Corkwood: Box Ti-tree in dry creek. The mulga here has a fruit something like a small apple to look at soft inside–edible. The Pioneer Co talk of bringing 40 people next year! Central Australia has 430 inhabitants. Inserted later in black ink \Mountain at/ Alice Springs 3000 ft above sea-level. Last summer the thermom about 113 all February! Cattle were 5000 on a station when mustered lately 300. Simpsons Gap about 50 m from Alice Springs When we got to the Strings we arranged to have ½ past 6 tea and stay the night. Mrs. Kilpatrick gave me & the Bonds the same bed-rooms, we had before. We had left Mrs Nicker at the Tel-Station, where we had a chat with Mr. Alchurch the past master. Very amusing I sent telegram to Ruth Swan Sydney. Mrs B. had a wire a letter from home. The Administrator & his wife still away. The new residences have got roofs on very low. In red ink Todd River called after Sir Charles Todd the P.M.G. Adelaide.

Page 50 In red ink Alice Springs Wednesday Aug. 1. Very cold morning. Fire in dining room. Breakfast at 8. Mrs. K said there was ice on water. Hard frosts the last few days. Mrs. K only there 8 months. She says there is little or nothing for the many Government officials to do. Miss Jessie Trail & Miss Goode stayed there last year–Known as “The Good trail”. They stayed nearly three weeks. She does not do a good business where told she could take £108 she is glad to get the 8. Birds Minas–ground larks Half cast children in a “Compound” there When we passed through Heavytree gap a dusty plain. Very droughty–Some of the worst. A curious conical hill. Told us yesterday of the Palm Creek which the Victorian Government want to make a health & tourist resort about 50 miles away–only camels get there. Beautiful scenery around. Camels too weak at present. 12. 20 terribly droughty most of the Mulga dead. 1.oc. She-oak country stopped for lunch. 2.oc. Very droughty. Heavy going. Deep Well. Red sand-hills & low wooded hills. A fe cows in good condition 20 to 3. Very yellow hills. Several creeks. About 3. Maryvalle. Mule & donkey drawing water from well. An old buggy with water frrom Well. Old black men. Baby donkey. Donkeys turned out hobbled. Look as if they could get nothing to eat. The man said they wandered big distances by morning. Cattle very poor He & his mates out mustering had to live on goanna Cattle too poor to kill.

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Shortly after leaving bad going. Sand very heavy Had to get out & shove. Crossed Finke. Terrible sand to get through–The Finke again Not so bad 4.15 Passed Fogarty’s heavily laden lorry. 10-5 Pasased through low, scraggy hills sand for miles. Heavy going. Car pulling well. Going up-hill. 5.25. In the Tragic Mile. Not so bad as when going up. sun going dow. Passing quaint table- lands 10 past 6 moon rising over grey hills in lovely soft blue & rose sky. Camped A water bed near our camp seemed as if water must be to be found. Horses come down to water. Found a shell. Bush under which the blacks get most Widgeree “Granite bush. At Maryvale the men bought some churingas from an old black man. He shouted to the girls to keep out of the way before showing them. They must not see them. Death penalty if they do. The men spear them. We were told some places they have their eyes gouged out.

Page 52 Thursday Aug. 2nd Struck tents 8.30. Very cold S.E. wind. Through deep sandy creek 9.30. The barest of desert. Another dry creek. Some wooded hills–other destitute of any verdure. 9.45 Through the Finke again Broad white sand. in bed. Trees again with caterpillar nests. Terrible country–Dead trees. Crows–Belt of trees by creek. Blue creatures terrible country. Keeping to river bed but bad going. Finke again. 9.15 Horse-shoe Bend. “Eugoordina” x Station Were told that their cattle were not in bad condition because further back there was the pant Parakylia which has a thick juicy leaf. On this the cattle do without water for months. 1.’ 90” all the rain Horse-shoe Bend had last year. 1000 miles for their stock to run on. Difficulty in getting stock used to the homestead not to wander back there even if no feed. Took snaps of Camel-team loading up & loaded with cases of oranges & apples. “Finke River Mail” carrying 4–8 cwt. Mrs. Elliot came out to talk to us. Her husband there. Will not keep the place as hotel when the railway comes near but move over. Railway navvys had bought up most of the blacks’ weapons The Elliots get all stores from Adelaide their own camels bringing them from Oodnadatta at very little cost In red ink “Eugoordina” is the Native name for Horse-Shoe Bend. some Desert Oak (Casuarina Decaisneassu)on hills.

Aug.2. What looked like yellow & red ochre here & there along the track. flat table hills again. At Afghan Crossing a shower had brought up little flowers like Virginia Stock. We all got out– but the car behaved splendidly & got through without matting. Some had been borrowed to replace the lost The railway will only cross the Finke once. 20 to 12 Crossed Finke again. Successfully. Near River trees. Beyond very desolate. Crown Point crossing then Crown Point station. 101-2 met long team of camels some blacks. A mounted policeman. 60 miles from Charlotte Waters (Mr. Trussell’s brother in-law a Mr. Hurst–once owned Wilpena Station–) At New Crown Station they have lost a good many cattle. We did not go in there Mr. & Mrs Hayball came out to talk to us. Had 0.50 since we were there before–a shade of green in places 3.45 quantities of the trees like olive very pretty but quite bare of ground vegetation– then big patches of trees (probably) iron-bark. 4 o.c passed some blacks by well Mrs. B bought 2 boomerangs rather unfinished. Charlotte Waters telegraph Station–Everywhere we went they seem to have been having a spring cleaning–white-washing & painting.

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C.Waters gleamed with snowy white–but the telegraphed station had been smartened up with mustardy yellow buttresses! Terribly bare, desolate surroundings. 5-6 Absolutely bare country In red ink Trees near Crown point Mulga & Acacias Crown Point owned \or in charge of/ by Alec Ross in 1894

Page 54 of any vegetation–but there must have been rain as there were many pools of water and good firm sand. A stay camel. 10 to 6 p.m. Blood’s Creek Well. Took in water 20 past 6. Car went through pool of water on track!! Followed telegraph line after this. About 2. oclock we were stuck in very deep sand on track–level country– Had to get out matting & all hands called on to push. Took us half an hour to get out again–laid branches Mrs Bond took snap of me pushing. 2.45 Good firm track–Everywhere large patches of the little flower like V. stock so that there must have been some rain. also a little yellow daisy. camped about 8 miles from Oodnadatta–passing Possum Creek. A man on Motor bicycle saw our camp fire just before tea & rode up our camp by dry water-course. Not nearly so cold as last night. Some clouds. Fine sunset. line inserted to divide the text above from that below and also Inserted at side of page Friday Aug. 3rd. # We had a nice\meal/ at the hotel finishing up with apples & oranges (Wrote p.c. Di Peter & P.C [ .?. ]T. Gertie Y. Ruth Swan Letters Laura, Mr Bulfield. Telegram Charles) Went to the Fogarty Store & got 2 Advertisers of also bought some face cream & a notebook Went over to the Hostel near by & presented letter to Sister Caldrewood from Miss Yeates. The two sisters Lacy (all fully qualified) received us and showed us over. The Hostel very suitable & well-planned a very nice sitting-room and kitchen. Sister C. (in charge) had been up over a year the others a short time The Lacy Sisters Irish & full of humour. One only there temporarily. The Hostel entirely run by the Presbyterian Inland Mission Flinders St Adelaide

A little reading room open to the public–and a bath-room where a traveller can have a bath. Boxes of books from the mission ready to be sent on. They were going to have a fair a little later for the Hostel & were very busy working for it. A sewing meeting that afternoon They asked us to come back & meet the ladies & have tea & finding that the two cars would not be loaded up until 4. pm at the earliest we went back. Bought a few hankies & left a contribution towards the funds–Wrote our names The Hostel only charge patients £2-2. a week–There were three patients. The sisters told us funny stories of experiences. and one very sad one. A young man of 22 died about a week ago of pneumonia and other complications. He was there three weeks and would not give his name until just at the last when he tried to but the nurse could not understand he was so weak. They said he was a very nice young fellow educated & played a violin There was nothing to show who he was but the police were trying to trace something about him. His mother is in South Africa. a very good map of Australia showing the Mission Field had been done by Mr. Rev. J. Flynn, of the Mission The Hostel has bore water, & some rain water–A green lawn & some bushes. Very little planting at Oodna–

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Page 56 Friday Aug.3 Up early. Left camp 7.30. 5-8 through two creeks sandy crossings got through all right. Signs of rain all along. Sometimes a shade of green on the earth. 8.15. A few trees like Tamarisks– very red trunks & branches. A sheep! 8.30 Hamilton Bore again. Did not stop. More water than before. Cold biting S.E Wind. 10 past 8 Dry stony country. 9.45 Bushes with a fuschia-like flower–looked as if there were some berries. Evidence of rain. a deserted lorry broken down. Mr. B. knew owner so took the tyres off & put them in our car. A honey scented little yellow flower. 10 20 passed through dry bed of Alberga Creek. Track mostly very good. Doing for some time 40 miles an hour and often 30 to 35. Very different to the 10-&15 we had done in the sand yesterday. Got to Oodnadatta at noon. All looked for letters–I got a big budget–and a parcel with my dress forwarded from Q.A. Club Mr. Bulfied wrote, & sent on many letters. Sent telegram & wrote letters & post cards which would catch mail at 2.pm. Very drunken men over at rail Station next P.O. x#Written in red ink at right angles to text in left margin Friday Aug. 3. There was a wonderful mirage by Oodnadatta making the surrounds look as if there were beautiful trees & lakes. Two bare little cemeteries at Oodnadatta.

Had afternoon tea at the Hostel–The sisters conduct a service on Sunday & have Sunday School about 20 children. Met Mrs a sister of blind Mrs. Mcleod at Mataranka. We started about 4.30. Robbie starting off with the smaller car & Mr. Trussell & following us. 5.15–going through Kidman’s Station Allandale–taking another road from the one we had come in camped by side of Creek 20 miles further on.

Page 58 Saturday Aug.4. Started 9.30 Up early Cook brought me hot tea & hot water. It was bitterly cold at dawn. Very bare country but a shade of green. Fair track. Dead animals about. Through some small creeks. 10.10 A horrid little creek to cross. Many “Olive” trees by side of water course. 10.2 trouble in sand got out all right: crossed railway. 10.30 Undulating very rough country– constant dips into creeks. 10.40 Big new railway bridge. Algebuckina crossing. A very bad one instead of sand, stones & boulders to go over. Took photos. Deep water with trees & rushes near. Both cars got through all right 11.20 Water on track–11.30 crossed him again 11.50 Another big bridge. Droughty but there has been some rain–a small short very green bush Many small wild-flowers. 2.15 Edwards’ Creek Rail Station 3.10 Another long bridge over sandy river bed. Little yellow daisy flower, & double white daisies–a real carpet of these. 3.15 Shrubs dying or dead. 3.40 Stopped at “railway station” Cottages. Took water from one of their rainwater tanks–Like another “station” we passed not a soul there–broken windows. 4.5 A bed of a creek with good sized white or “red” gums. Everywhere patches of white “V.Stock” flowers carpeting the ground. Robbies car got stuck here near a railway viaduct. Was pushed out. quantities of hairy black caterpillars–mostly young. Pool of water. A horrible stony creek to go over beside a broad bed of a river–white sand. Flowers & shrubs and better trees near creeks. Nice short green & flowers in patches. Salt-bush. 25–5 Acacia bushes

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Plenty of gum–especially by river beds 5.p.m Met camels & blacks gave them bacey–a little later a blacks camp by creek. A sick woman 3 horses & buggy. 1 horse had bell on The men bargain for weapons. 25 past 5–across another creek. Rail-“Station”.5–30 Beautifully green beside the creeks and the ground carpeted with the lush white “Stock” flower 25 to 6 Small lagoon Water sometimes on track. Hawks–the air seems full of them Evidently a fairly good rain fallen here. supposed “Duck” in billabong Anna Creek Station. 12 Dead Cattle in numbers counted a score or more in a mile or so. Stopped at the homestead Cook bought some meat. Two women a baby and a little boy. Owner, or manager page. 6.21 a long ridge of red sand hills After 7. pm. before we camped– Could find little shelter, & had to camp where there were only low acacia bushes. However we got enough wood to make the fire. Quantities of the little “Virgin Stock” night scented & very sweet. Spinach & ice-plant Everlastings (White & double with yellow centre Lagoons with a flock of Waterhens which flew off as we approached. White salt showing over ground 25-11 Strangways Rail station Desolate some officials houses but deserted. good track. Pools sometimes. Came to a motor-car in trouble Mr. Bond got out & went to help. Differential broken. One of the party had started to walk to Coward Springs for help. 11.30 “Beresford” Fine sheet of water with Plover. Houses again with no inhabitants. page 60 11.45 Robbie’s car in trouble. We went back twice. Went well afterwards. Salt–and salt lagoon. 12- Cowards Springs. Stopped in front of little hotel. To my surprise old Mallan of Auburn came out to see us. Surprised to see me. Came up there three years ago. Showed me photo of his daughter Alice who used to study singing at the Adelaide Conservatorium. He tells me she is now in the Melba Conservatorium in Melbourne–and has hopes of getting an engagement in grand opera to come over here by & bye Engaged to a young Dr Muir whose father is a doctor in Collins St. Mrs. Mallon has been for many months in the North Adelaide Pri. Hospital. 12.40 Started to drive to the Hot Springs a few miles away, taking Mr. Mallan & another young man with guns to get duck. The springs are large circular pools on top of low conical hills with basin shapes tops like a Volcano–There are other pools besides the ones we saw. The first one was large and ordinary temperature Ducks were there but the sportsmen shot none Then we went to a hot bubbling spring, muddy water was coming up in large bubbles constantly agitating–At times these throw up a good height but were not doing this when we saw them. The water was quite hot. The aperture through which the bubbles came quite a small one about the size of a large pole they pushed down to try to get it to bubble more

Sunday Aug.5. Started at 9. Bare & bleak but looking green with short herbage. Very cold. Mr. Bond took a most absurd snap of Cook shaving Robbie! Some lagoons–Orange-red Anthills. Very long ridge of sandhills– 1.10 We dropped a “water-drum which was run over & smashed. A small brown plant like sorrel. x Spent some time at Springs then back to the Hotel–The Springs are in Kidman’s station “Stuart Springs.” Coward Springs called after Coward the Explorer father of Coward the once proprietor of Hotels \in/ Adelaide. At the hotel there are some palm\trees/ & beside it a Gov. Bore also Hot–and a swimming pool. Got some Walkerville beer for everyone and then we

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______said goodbye & drove on a few miles before having lunch which was not till 3. oclock. Not much fire wood but made a fire. Some very bad track. Stopped once by sand & car had to be shoved. A very large railway bridge phrase inserted in red ink x \39 ft below sea level/ Stuart Creek Railway Station. Large Lagoon. Another bad place where we stuck. Plenty of diminutive flowers–salt bush. 5 15 Lake Eyre in sight. Five thirty passing Lake Eyre Nasty patch of sand to go through Camped rather early by a creek with bushes. 50 miles from Maree. Mr. Mallan told me the reason we saw so many dead cattle from Oodnadatta on, was that a large mob of thousands of cattle were brought through last year from Queensland–The poor beasts were emaciated & dropped by the way. Dead beasts all around the Springs. Cook found some hawk’s eggs where we camped.

Page 62 In red ink Stuart’s Journal. Extracts & others. “ I have the Melancholy satisfaction of discovering the Worst Country in the World” (Captain Sturts’ Journal) “I believe the country that is apparently desert will be no desert for future generations” ( Explorer L.A. Wells) The Finke . On the 4th of April\1860/ he came to a creek with plenty of water. “The Creek is very large with the first gum trees we had yet seen all sizes & heights. For nine miles we passed over a plain of as fine a country as any man could wish to see–a beautiful red soil covered with grass a foot high–after that it becomes a little sandy - - - - - the Creek I have named the Finke after William Finke Esq of Adelaide my sincere and tried friend and one of the liberal supporters of the different Explorations I have had the honour to lead.” (From J. McDouall Stuarts Journal) On this 1860 Exploration on the 12th April he came to a range of hills–He remarks “This is the only real Range I have seen since leaving The Flinders Range–I have named it The McDonnell Range after his Excellency the Governor in chief of South Australia as a token of my gratitude for his kindness to me on many occasions.” Some more Extracts from his journal:–“(Sunday 22nd April Small Gum Creek under Mt Stuart centre of Australia)” “Today I find from my observations of the sun that I am now camped in the centre of Australia. I have marked a tree and planted the British Flag there. There is a high mount about two miles & a half to the N.N. East. I wish it had been in the centre, but on tomorrow I will raise a cone of stones and plant the flag there and name it “Central Mount Stuart.” On the 1st June he mentions naming a creek “The Bonney” “after Charles Bonney late Commissioner of Crown Lands.” On his fifth Expedition (Nov. 1860–Sept 1861 - - “Newcastle Water, 23rd May I have named after His Grace The Duke of Newcastle Secretary for the Colony”.

In red ink Stuart’s journal etc Stuart states that he named a creek & mountain\range/ after “Mr Samuel Tomkinson, of the “Bank of Australasia”. He writes “19th of June–Hawker Creek. Proceeded to the Hunter along the foot of the hills and at 9 miles crossed the large gum creek where I watered my horses

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______on my north course. This I named Powell Creek after J.W.Powell Esq of Clare. At 20 miles crossed another gum creek which I have named Gleeson Creek after E.B. Gleeson Esq J.P. Clare.” In Stuarts Expedition 1861–1862 He mentions May 26 Daly Waters: Jan 26 Roper River. On 5th July “a river with plenty of water in it. This I named the Waterhouse in honour of J.G. Waterhouse Esq Naturalist to the Expedition. On July 8th he came to another large creek “This I have named the Katherine in honour of the second daughter of James Chambers Esq” On July 11. mentions the Adelaide River; on July 19 Anna Creek. “Chambers Pillar” near the Finke– Captain Sturt’s Expedition in 1844. (August) Captain Grey, then Governor of S. Ausa. The Exploring Party–Capt Sturt(command). J.Perle (2nd in command). Dr. John Browne (medical Officer). D. J. Brock (Scientist, J. Lewis. L Piesse. They took with them described as “attendants”–D. Morgan: A Turpin: H. Foulkes: J. Cowley: G. Davenport: R. Flood: J. Kirby: J. Sullivan: J. Mack: J. Jones. Lake Eyre– Is it about 3,800 miles in area? If the Dead Sea of Palestine yields the British Government £800,000 000 in salts such as Magnesium, sodium, potash\ss/ium Chlorides Calcium chloride magnesium bromide–what an enormous amount of valuable minerals are untouched in Lake Eyre.

Page 64 Monday Aug.6. Left 9.30. Left camp which was close to lake Eyre–Very cold morning–bright & clear. Last night’s clouds gone. There was a rosy sunset The Salt Lake Eyre must have been a terrible blow to the early explorers. Including where we camped some very bad sandhills to cross–some of the track quite good others distincty bad. After leaving Lake Eyre we followed the railway & telegraph line S.E. towards hills purple, in distance. 9.30 Bad dip into Creek. Got through all right–then good going on plain for about a mile. Sand banks in front of hills. Heavy sand again. 10 Passing railway-bridge– no.2 Another bridge & pretty creek with water. Quantities of little honey-scented yellow flower. Bad dip out of creek 10.10 Railway siding unhabited Cottages 10.15 Horrid little dip to get out of watercourse Along side railway line. Another nasty little dry streamlet course. 10.15 Passing through Salt Swamps. Left car & took photo. Surface covered with white like snow. A pool of perfectly sweet spring water surrounded with green rushes in the salt bed. About 40 miles from Marree. 10.4 Spring of Car moved again & had to be adjusted Rather bad sand track 10.15 Salt Swamp again nasty stony hill to go through first and rocky dip into bed of salt Others had put down railway sleepers to make Corderoy track. With these we got over–but the 2nd car stuck for a time. My foot slipped in jumping on to a sleeper & went down–& I had to get my swag undone & change stockings & shoes

10.10 Creek with water–Bad dip. Bad stony track 11.30 Another railway siding with deserted cottages 11.35 Alberta Creek. 11.40 nasty muddy patch with dry cracked surface. Rail. Bridge over it. 11 40 Passed small salt lake; along rail line, flat bleak land. Some bad jolts– bits of sand, on the railway track sometimes holes dug beside sometimes sleepers with

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______barbed wire between laid down to prevent anyone going on the lines. 7 to 12 another railway cottage. 5-12 Dip into pretty little plain with long railway bridge. Stopped for lunch Went through a gate at 2’ o.c. then over tableland and down steep rocky slopes along railway 2 10 Wangianna rail siding Cottage inhabited man came out to speak to us. 2.12 A horrid little dip. 2.20 Another gate. Met a man with motor caravan an Anglo-Afghan–going to Oodna with a picture show–Car placarded “Professor Gillum”–2.30 Another salt-pan. Fairly good going then rather bad sand. Piles of railway sleepers by line. 2.45 Another gate. Goods train passed: 1 carriage. A nasty little water-course with water. Both cars took it well. Then “Cullanna” siding empty railway cottages. 2.55 Another gate. 3.5 patches of black stony soil suggestive of coal. Horrid bit crossing railway. Both cars through. Marree in sight. 3.30 Marree–once “Hergott Springs” but altered in war-time. Very drought stricken & desolate. The government experimental date plantation looking very sick. Fire-wood has to be carted. No bakery–bread has to come from Oodnadatta The little store produced fruit which we purchased largely apples, quite good. 3 lbs for a shilling. Bananas & oranges. All from Adelaide or elsewhere. Nothing local. No local dates.

Page 66 The hotel quite a good building. No Kodak films for sale– but the young man in a store said he had a few of his own & would get them for me as they were the size I wanted. So I purchased two. 4.30 On road to Beltana. Very desolate–Not a tree. Met a team of almost 50 camels with Afghans or natives with them. At Marree the largest Afghan “town” in the states. They have their own “temples” by the palm plantation very clean-looking tidy little place–One or two good houses. Rainfall average 3” per year–“Sometimes none”–Had 0.15–the other day. 4.30 coming to some Mulga. Bad sand. 5.30 good track doing 30. to 40. miles. Passed Wirrawilla rail siding. 5.30 another gate. Passed soon afterwards bushy creek with water turned in and camped. Bacon & eggs for tea which we appreciated after so much beef. A very large donkey team passed in the dusk. Washed my stockings–and had an extra scrub with a big pan of water. Succeeded in getting my brown shoes quite nice–but the salt & sand very difficult to remove. Cook had a great washing last night of towels. etc. A very noisy railway train passed about 10. reminding me of the “ghost train.” To my indignation Cook shot a pair of quail on the way.

Tues. Aug. 7. Another train passed soon after breakfast. Range of hills in distance Left camp 25–10 Reached Farina during morning. (10.5) Talking to a man named Napier there. Knew Clare well. Friend of old Peter Gillen. Called me “Madam” rather a treat after camp manners. Farina has had some rain and there is a shade of green everywhere Other wise a bleak desolate country. As we went on our track we went through many gates. A small mauve starry flower looking white in the sun carpeted the earth Very rough track–the bumps some of the worst we have had. 10.11. A gate 11 Another gate. Salty country but very good salt bush. 10.15 going over low hills Lyndhurst siding camels. 2 blacks with camels 11.30 Many loose camels feeding Another gate. Very rough going. 11.40 track very bad. Going over stony hills. 11.45 Black hill with low bushes. 11 50 Railway houses 12.5 A gate. Going over hummocks Stopped for lunch Started again 2.20. 1.30 Gate. Sheep.

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Leighs Creek coal bores. 1.35 Telford Rail siding. Gate. Another gate stony creek. just below hills Copley. Stopped there while Mr. B. went to P.O Very nasty smell everywhere suggesting burning dead animals Mended coat for Cook! Added in red ink “Farina” said to be short for “farinaceous.”

Page 66 2 50 Went up a horrid little steep bit. Just before this a carpet of the diminutive yellow flower quite a blaze of colour 3.20 Going through a gorge through which the railway ran on side of hills. Broken hills rugged. Stony watercourse. Beautiful feed high salt bush–grass & other herbage. 3.45 A gate. Very pretty country 4.55 Railway bridge. 5.4 Broad bed of stream Beltana. First the railway station. large stone buildings & big iron shed. Look much too large for requirements. The village not in sight there but rounding a bend we came on it. Very prettily situated–good trees–the Flinders hills alongside. Not much of a village. Went to call on the Mitchells Robbie drove me over–Their house one of the best. Knocked at two doors. No one there Wrote note on leaf of note book & pinned it on door. Publican told me they had been seen going away in car that morning. Started off again. Country looking beautiful. Men tried to shoot rabbits. Gate–Rail-siding. Empty houses. Flinders Ranges looking beautiful in the evening light–4.50 ground carpeted with yellow & white gate. 5.15 crossed dry watercourse with railway bridge. 5.20 gate. 5.30 Spring of car “up” again. Parachilna about 6. There we met the other tourist party from Bond’s garage

After a chat we went on through a gate on track and into the Flinders range. Selected a beautiful place for our camp. Magnificent Red gum trees–high peaks. A tremendous camp fire was made and we had supper about 8. Afterwards Robbie & Mr. T went in the Parachilna in the smaller car. The Car party came out and sat round the camp fire–& chatted–Had the gramophone on. Added in red ink St Mary’s Peak of the Flinders Range 3,900 ft high. Angonchina Station shere the hostel for tubercular soldiers has been built was owned by John, C. The Swans. Will Swan brought up there Sir S Kidman at one time owned Wilpena Station.

Page 70 Wednesday Aug. 8th. Left camp 9.45. Took two snaps of hills. Very beautiful passing through gorges. green. not much water. At 10. Stopped to take snaps “Angorichina The other party there. Left again at 12. Sister Bolger, Mrs Davey (Housekeeper) Mrs Barnes (temporary) Cook Mr Appelt (driver) Members of the other party. W Appelt .driver. Mr. Mrs. Rogers Mr & Mrs Anseess Misses Michael Mr Lillicrapp Mrs Gilbert. Mrs Davey there on my last visit. Ten patients. More planting done a good bed of stocks–They kindly gave tea to the whole party–and then one of the patients who had a good camera took a time exposure photo of the visitors in the dining-room. Showed us many photos. Went on a short distance & stopped for lunch in a pretty hollow. Great excitement no knives forks or spoons to be found–Just as we were going to send Robbie back to the last camp to look for them they turned up. I did a very unfinished sketch. Plenty of bird life Willie wags tiny doves thrushes & others I didn’t know. Pine trees again. Steep hills green under the pines Plenty of bright green bush little yellow buttercup flower just before starting a lorry load of wool from Wirriara at 2.30 another lorry.

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Blinman 2.45 Blinman had 1 ½ inches rain last fall. Mine closed 21 years ago We all clambered up the hill to the old mines. Off again just afterwards: leaving the Angorichina party to sleep there & re-join us mext day. Went on towards Wilpena and camped at a lovely spot Hills & pine trees around a flat table-land–Beautiful blue hills in distance– Plants by Roper River Pandanus Odoralissimus–or “Moreton Bay Bread-fruit.” Caldera bush, etc. c. Melaleuca genistifolia, (White paper bark Myrtle–“Cajuput oil tree” One of the names of the water-root tree–The “Elba”.

Page 72 Handwritten in red ink I am told that Wilpena is native for “Place of Bent Fingers” Flinders Ranges Thursday Aug.9 Left Camp 8.50. Did sketch in watercolour while the packing up was on. Up before daylight Cook brought me coffee, & my hot water. Stopped at “Oraparinna” station for water. A great many dogs there some very good Kelpies. The 2nd car with Robbie driving had trouble with a tyre so we had to wait. A cream Dodge car came along from another track followed it for a while then passed it. Many gates to go through south wind–very cold. 11.12 Stopped again because Robbie’s car in trouble. 11.20 Wilpena homestead The Angorichina party joined us–& after lunch–they brought theirs but shared our hot tea as Cook made the usual fire–we went through the gorge towards the Pound. Much more water than in march, & green grass, ferns, parsley [ .?. ] between the rocks. Mr. Bond & Robbie stayed behind to mend tyres–but came later. They my married couple (Amies), were ahead but I caught them up near Pound & we walked on into the pound for about a mile–Short green grass everywhere–a few cattle. Some cultivation had been done in the pound as there was an old cultivator, also chains which must once have belonged to bullock wagons. The Pound is said to be thirty miles in extent–Beautiful surroundings of hills craggy & steep. Colouring exquisite brown to deep blue & purple We had to cross over stones with running water & deep pools below–& my foot slipping I went in and made my shoes very wet & had to change when we got back to the cars. Mrs. Rogers did worse as she went in on her face–& cut two fingers as well on the rocks. Those first back at the lunch camp lit the fire again & Cook made us tea. Chatted with Miss Gilbert who had spent some weeks in Ceylon–& had crossed America alone. Took some photos in the Pound–Pine trees everywhere besides the fine big red-gums. When we started off some of the party were anxious to see the shearing as the shed was on the way. A very decent looking set of men shearing with shearing machines. Sheep when shorn looked very tucked up & poor but must have been in yard for a couple of days. Scott Bros who owned the station bought it from a man named Hunt. 5.20 Crossed a creek with splendid gums. Wilpena to Hawker 36 miles Beautiful coloured in hills Reached Hawker in the dark. Found there was a difficulty in accommodating all the Angorichina party–at either Fergusson’s or Crawford’s Hotel–so after much debate it was arranged that the honeymoon couple should stay at Hotel–also Miss Rogers and Mrs Michael & her sister: & the remainder of the party should come with us & camp out–We had our evening meal there & the hotel did us very well–then we went on Mr Crawford piloting us to a creek about 3 miles away which had good shelter I some splendid gum trees. There a

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______huge fire was lit & & the three cars brought up, tents pitched & we settled for the night. Mrs. B. & Miss Gilbert slept in the big car–Mr. Bond & the other men in the other cars. Hawker to Blinman 79 miles Gawler to Adelaide 25. miles Hawker to Clare 157 Clare to Gawler 52 282 Letter from Ella S. at Hotel Hawker In red ink x Hawker named after the Hon.G.C. Hawker.

Page 74 Friday Aug. 10. We had early breakfast & were ready to start at 9.15. Very cold driving. Cradock at 10.30 A township with no inhabitants to be seen–but a pub. & 3 churches! Salt bush all along has started to grow again. All the cars kept together. 11.30 Robbie had puncture– Still near ranges. About 12 stopped for water at Carrieton. 25 past 12 stopped by creek with big red gums for lunch. A fire was lit and billy boiled we cut up loaves of bread & buttered them and ate tinned meat, & tinned fruit to follow, with as little washing up as possible. 1.25 started off again. Eurelia 1.35– Ororroo 2.30. the Carrieton Spalding 4.45. Most of the country from Ororroo down looking very well. Some crops coming on splendidly & feed growing. Pasture showing signs of frost. Road in parts before & after Spalding very rough. We got to Clare at 6. I ran in to see the Bulfields–Delighted to see me all at tea. We went in to Bentleys and had our evening meal there. All the party delighted to get hot water for washing. Some of the men including Cook indulged in hot baths. Mr Bulfield came over and we had a chat & he brought letters. I went over to see the Catos Mr Cato had had a horrid accident & been laid up with a finger injured. We all started off afresh & made for Gawler arriving at Old Spot Hotel at 9.30. I was given bed-room to myself–& was glad to get to bed.

Saturday Aug. 11. Had a great tidy up of my belongings–Deferred a big bath–as there is only one bathroom & cold water–a chip heater! Breakfast 8. very good. Did not start in cars till 10.30. Mr Lillecrapp–left to get train for Morgan & all of the ladies to catch another train–& Mr Amies disappeared without saying goodbye to anyone. Found he had taken a bus for Adelaide saying he wanted to get there before the banks closed. Not feeling sure of what I had left at Club I made some small purchases. Spoke to Henry Dawes through telephone. Beautiful day. We ran quickly down and stopped at Gepp’s X. Where we had a welcome from more than twelve motor cars several of them decorated with streamers blue & white, red & white etc–Our big Studebaker had been also decorated with blacks’ weapons! We went in triumphant procession to the G.P.O. & Victoria Square–then all cars stopped near what was Duncan & Fraser Charles came to meet me. Mrs. Bonds children (two little boys Max & Colin) were brought to Gepp’s † to meet her. Miss Bond also drove a car out Cook’s people came too. Mr Lang of my last Flinders Expedition also driving. a reporter asked the B’s many questions when in car with us Several photos were taken. Then we went to Bond’s garage. There I took 2 snaps. Charter came with his car & we unloaded & took me

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Page 76 and my belongings to the Q. A. Club. Charles stayed to lunch. Afterwards he drove me to see Laura still in hospital. & back to the Club Had tea & wrote & read my letters. etc. Had a big hot bath & change when I got my key and suitcase from Miss Harris–Edie Tomkinson came to dinner Lady Stirling staying here

Blank page

Page 78 Bond’s Central Australian and Darwin Tour– 1928 Alphabet of our Trip. A. for Australia–Land of the free. B. for Bond’s Motor-tours crossing to see, C. for the Chance that they stick in the track D. …..termination to get there and back. E. stands for Emu which started to race F. for our Folly in setting the pace. G. stands for Gibber land, boulders & stones H. for the Hillocks that shake our poor bones. I. for Itinerary, not quite correct, J. for the Jokes which our diaries collect. K. stands for Kook, we don’t spell it with C, L. for his Lashings of tucker and tea M. for the Mixture of things in the car N. for the Nowhere, so many things are. O. for the Opals we bought on the fields P. for the Purchase of blacks spears & shields Q. for the Queries we ask the bush-men R. for the Rivers that ran once–but when? S. Studebaker–our marvellous car, T. for the Tracks, mostly bad as they are. U. for Untidiness,–not ours of course! V. for Kooks Voice as he shouts himself hoarse. W. Wild-flowers (seeming things of the past, X. the eXcitement to find some at last. Y. is our Youth much renewed from this hour, Z. stands for Zero–or end of our Tour!

Six blank pages

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No Name. It might be Brown, O’Brien, Jones– Or Laird of so and so, There’s no-one knows, we only guess At Days of Long Ago When Some-one humped his bluey For that cattle run out back With his mates “Long Tom” and “Jimmy” Down the sandy Mulga track. ------The years have come, the years have gone, With little left to tell, For someone lay a-dying at A camp near Cooper’s Well. “No name” they asked–no word from Home”? (They thought him nearly gone) The dimming eyes made no response, He murmured faintly “None.”

“Gone bush!----that’s good enough for me, If any needs to know. There’s a girl----at Mackaranga------Or–There was one----long ago. So long boy’s!---Hold me up---its’ dark— ---The sun has set----so soon”– And in the dusk he left them. Sixty miles from Popes’ Lagoon.

Page 86 The “Never Never” downed him– But a bushman’s heart beats true, So the Station hands at Kulga, Where he once was Jackeroo, Said “Its Charlie” and a “White” man And we’ll raise as many quid As will put a stone above him Just to mind him”–which they did.

No name–but just “Erected by His friends on Kulga run” With the date. Now those who put it there Are mostly dead or gone, But there’s one above, that reads it As knows more than me or you And looks o’er the finished story

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Of that one time jackeroo.

He may have made a mess of things Of But that we do not know But one time he was straight & clean, And we would have it so– Sure God will blot the bad things out And leave the good to stand When he writes up all the records Of the “Never Never” land. Page 88 Bush Land Blue skies above me Stars shining bright, Camp fire blazing Crisp, frosty night Silence and solitude Nights’ wondrous hush– Nature at rest in The heart of the Bush.

Southern Cross o’er head Guarding our Land Pointers to guide us With beckoning hand While the stars twinkle I lay me to rest– What may tomorrow be? Heaven knows best.

Pages 89-96 contain sketches of her trip. Some of these have scrawled written on their reverse sides, which can be seen, as the pages are not stuck down. Some of the sketches have other sketches on the reverse side. Page 89 Sketches of ant hills with comments stones like Druid S. conical another shape odd shapes “White-Ant” Hills Sketch of Railway Station Mataranka Railway 82 Miles from Katherine 16 O.C.

Page 90 Plant sketches green bottle brush

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Tiny pale yellow flower which carpeted the ground near Stuart’s Creek small pea shaped flower Life size purple Light, straggling bush Life size Kind of salt bush Little red berry like diminuitive Tomato Life size. Page 91 Blank Page 92 Iceplant frosted leaf about Nat. size Stock eat this Deep crimson samphire green samphire succulent leaf Neither good for stock

Page 93 “Little yellow buttercup flower” Dead stem Root Natural size as found About 10 miles from Ti Tree station July 31 Resembles Echidna of the sea beach Very pretty bright blue geranium growing close to ground. about ¾ natural size.

Page 94 At Algebuckina Creek green salt bush bladders Stock will eat Little mauve daisy–(yellow centre) growing in sheets between Farina and Lyndhurst siding looks white in sun. unpleasant scent. leaf like Leptosper Hooffner 20 past 2 Dwarf Palm Treeferns Darwin River siding small flower greensl clear flat thin hard leaf Very long lance? like [ .?. ] dark brown seeds leaves light green Camped bout 6.15 30 M. from B. Creek July 14. Orange like shrub is possibly Burren- Burren

Page 95 Top left Jockeys Cap Hill Written upside down below the sketch of Jockeys Cap Hill Jockeys cap Hill Darwin [ .?. ]16/ Trobader Index open 2/10 Tobralco 6/11 Souvenir 5/ Telegram 3/ On the reverse side of the above sketch Two small sketches Bullocks Hoof Mountain nr Altaringa Flowers orange Red coloured flowers less than ½ natural size Top right Sketch of White-Ant Hills in a landscape with tree. White-Ant Hills Stopped at 12 for lunch. about 2 got to Kelly’s Well. Took water I found over [ .?. ]Wa word cut off On reverse side Plant stem with flowers July 14–Another at same camp No label on drawing at bottom left of the page: it seems to be a solanum species Bottom right are four sketches of flowers and stems We have to follow it for 50 miles swamp grass keeps goats fowls & an cattleyard(?) 12.30 Stopped at No 1 bore very pretty scrub a five petalled pink flower with pretty crimson calyx growing in clusters in large bushes. ¼ natural size Blueish lavender gray green foliage Trees like cootamundra W with Fig trees Many petalled flowers everlasting several lines of writing overwritten and illegible On reverse side Sketch of stem, leaves and fruit By the Bierden Creek 55 miles from Archarinka Wild Orange called Quinine Tree from its bitterness

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Page 96 Top left sketch of a stem Sage green 4 long veins in each leaf. Back a net-work of veins crossing. Somewhat blue. Texture of sage (About 3rd of [ .?. ]size) Top right Sketch of a mulga tree Barts Well Mulga [ … … ] The Mulga here has a fruit some very like small apple [ .?. ]Some bloodwood trees some cork-wood–box–giant tea tree in old creek Bottom left Sketch of what seems to be a Eucalypt stem, leaves and seed pods Bohina seeds about life size. very pale blue leaves almost white rough bark Bottom right Two sketches of wattle stem as and flowers Near Wind mill Wattles of the bush. Blank page

Page 98 Population of S.Aus. about 44,000 The Galah’s scientific name Cucatoes Roseicapulla The Mallee Fowl’s mound contains about 200 cubic feet of material Salt-bushes are mostly a species of Atriplex (such as A. Mumularia) Bassia: Kochia: & other chenopodiaceous plants. Almond-leafed Peppermint gum. Great Shea-Oak–or Casuarina subversa White paper-bark myrtle–Melaleuca Senistifolia Box olive-wood Bursaria Pantoril Bright green “orange” like bush probably Burren Burren (Hemcycha Sepiaria). Acasia Farnesinna –fine leaf.

Pages 99 to 160 are blank

Page 161 Newspaper cutting of a picture of a camel train, with no details supplied

Page 162 Newspaper cutting with Photograph captions SANDALWOOD FOR CHINA UNLOADING A TRUCK AT PORT ADELAIDE. Most of the sandalwood produced in South Australia is shipped to China, where it is burned for incense. Exceptionally large quantities of the valuable wood are now reaching Port Adelaide. Krischock Photo.

Page 143 Newspaper photograph with caption Overflow from hot springs at Nataranka Station Northern Territory. Handwritten by the author From a snapshot taken by Mrs. Bond, or Cook.

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Places to see next time:–

Page 164 Newspaper cutting SEEKING ARTESIAN WATER “Illustrating that the Federal Government refuse to let prgoress die, this committee has been informed that an important expedition organised by the Commonwealth Works and Railways Department will leave for the northern territories this week to investigate artesian water supplies,” states the weekly bulleting of the Country Party Parliamentary committee. “It will be in charge of Dr. L. Keith Ward, Government Geologist of South Australia, whose services have been retained by the Commonwealth. In addition, the Government have created the position of water engineer to the Central Australian administration, to be filled by Mr. D.D. Smith, an officer of the Works and Railways Department, with considerable experience, and he will take up his new duties on July 1. The Federal Government have done a great deal of work in regard to the investigation of water supplies, which is of direct concern, not only to the Commonwealth territories, but also to the States. Since they came into office, the Government have expended £74,881 on this phase of development. The yearly totals spent were:–1922-23, £13,672; 1923-24. £14,547; 1924-25, £17,397; 1925-26, £17,823; 1926-27, £11,442. Two great handicaps are faced by the outback settler in the northern territories and adjoining States–lack of transport and lack of permanent water. The work the Commonwealth is doing is really an exploration of the great artesian basin, which is believed to include more than half of Queensland, a considerable strip of New South Wales, and the *north-east of South Australia, together with the Territories. Other basins exist in Western Australia, and in the Murray River region. All these areas must benefit by Federal research.” *underlined in pencil

Page 165 From Maurice Maeterlinck’s “Life of the White Ant.” Termites. “It is possible that some of these hillocks date back to immemorial times” “Age long conflict between the Ant & the Termite” Soil is ground to a powder by the insect and passed through its intestine.” Poorly equipped–a prey to every kind of bird reptile, & insect. The most remarkable termitaries are the Australian. They work from within. 12 to 15 hundred species “The Compas, Magnetic, or Meridian Termite only in Australia” Exactly North & South–the broader part South the narrower North. “Age worn Cathedrals, ruined Castles of Gustave Doré” White Ants are blind. True Ants are Formicidae. Books on White Ants “Australian Termitidae” W.W. Froggatt. Entomologist Sydney. “Naturalist in Australia” Saville-Kent.

Page 166 Two newspaper cuttings AN HISTORIC SPOT In accordance with the recommendations of the Historic Memorials Committee the Adelaide City Council intends to mark certain sites connected with the early history of the State by

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______placing bronze tablets bearing historical particulars thereon. Recently a tablet was affixed to the southern wall of Sir Langdon Bonython’s residence at Montefiore Hill to commemorate the fact that the McDouall Stuart party set out from there on their expedition across Australia on October 25, 1861. Other tablets will be place on the site of the first Government House, Colonel Lights’ office, and the first Lands Department, where the surveys of the city were begun. OVER THE FINKE The Bond party at Afghan Crossing on the Finke, with Crown Point in the background. This is one of numerous similar spots which have to be negotiated over the bed of the river between Oodnadatta and Alice Springs.

Page 168 Camera - - 25 2 early morning 50 3 mid-day

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