©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 387

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Dinah Gardner I would like to thank all the friendly Taiwanese Many thanks to the travellers who used the last people who helped me along the way, especially edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Aidan Chuang, who truly has his finger on the advice and interesting anecdotes: Abbie Sevil, Agnès Lachasse, Alice Scharf, pulse of ’s heartbeat. I am also grateful Alistair Inglis, Bethany Koch, Charlotte Toolan, to my editor, Megan, for being so patient; and Claire Brown, Dan Chen, Danielle Wolbers, Miguel Fialho, who listened patiently day after ­Diego Coruña, Harold Fallon, Jan Ivarsson, day! Lastly I would like to thank itself, a Li Guan Tzung, Lisa Freeman, Mark de Haas, kind and generous host to all visitors. Neil Roth, Nick Kembel, Nicolas Combremont, ­Robin Weijer, Shui Ying Metselaar-Hou, Stu Keeton, Tan Yaling, Tony Backhouse, Veronica ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Matthew, Xuess Wee Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate WRITER THANKS ­Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Piera Chen Special thanks to Alvin Tse and Lee Chia-jung Cover photograph: Temple, , Lamia for much-needed support and inspiration. Lin/500px © Gratitude also goes to Max Chang, Airey Wong, Nato and Trista, Anson Ng, Mark Hanson, ­Sigmund and Weihsiu, Lam Lap-wai, Eric Chan, Wen Li Tesar and Evelyn Lua for making this book much stronger than I could have made it on my own. And finally a big fat thank you to Kontau and Clio for their love and patience. 388 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Product Editors Carolyn Cover Researcher Naomi THIS BOOK Boicos, Grace Dobell Parker This 10th edition of Lonely Senior Cartographer Thanks to Cheree Broughton, ­Planet’s Taiwan guidebook Julie Sheridan Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, was researched and written by Book Designer Gwen Cotter Neill Coen, Daniel Corbett, Piera Chen and Dinah Gardner. Jane Grisman, Liz Heynes, Assisting Editors Janet The previous edition was writ- Austin, Imogen Bannister, Corey Hutchison, Andi Jones, ten by Robert Kelly and Chung Kate Chapman, Katie Connolly, Lauren Keith, Virginia Moreno, Wah Chow. This guidebook Andrea Dobbin, Victoria Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, was produced by the following: Harrison, Bella Li Mazzy Prinsep, Angela Tinson, Megan Dora Whitaker Destination Editor Assisting Cartographer Eaves Alison Lyall ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 389

Index

13 Coffee 208 Red House 64 Bitou Cape 143 Chaishan Nature Reserve 18 Lords Temple 134 Taipei Performing Arts Blue Tears 298 247 2-28 Incident 59 Centre 72 boat tours 234, 275-6, 312 Changhua 220-3, 221 2-28 Memorial Museum 59 Ten Drum Rende Creative boat travel 375, 376 Checheng 226-7 Village 260-1 2-28 Peace Memorial Bombing Master Handan 194 Cheng Yen 174 Atayal people 130 Park 59 books 322 Chenggong Village 292 ATMs 372 birds 360 Chiang Kai-shek 55, 73, 115, 131, 327, 332-4 A culture 342 accommodation 366-7, B hiking 37 Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall 55 381, see also individual Baisha Bay 275 history 326, 329, 332, 337 Chiayi 214-19, locations Bali 111-12 religion 347 216 Chihnan National Forest activities 20, 23-5, 31-41, Baling 132-3 Bopiliao 63 367, 34-5, see also Recreation Area 184-5 Banqiao 86 Bowang New Village 228 individual activities Chihpen 195-6 banyan trees 308 British Consulate air travel 375, 376 children, travel with 64, 367 Bao’an Temple 65-7, 350, 11 Residence at Takou 245 alcohol 46, 301 Chimei 310 bathrooms 373 Buddhism 344-5 Ali 281 Chinese Lunar New Year 341 beaches 275 budget 19, 43, 366 Alishan National Scenic Area Chipei 310 211-13, 21 Aimen 311 Burning of the Wang Yeh Boats 276-7, Chung Tai Chan Temple 231 Ang Lee 355 Beigan 298 24 churches animals 362-4, see also Chihli 311 bus travel 376-7 Church of the Sacred individual species Chipei 310 bushwalking, see hiking Heart of Jesus 281 Anping 260 Fulong 143 business hours 372 Jinan Presbyterian butterflies 17, 362, 363, 17 Antique Assam Tea Farm Green Island 319 Church 59 233 Kenting 275 Saint Cross Church 270 Antong Hot Springs 186 Kinmen 293 Ciaotou Sugar Factory 244 Aowanda National Forest C Little Liuchiu Island 278-9 canals 264 Recreation Area 222 Ciaozai Village 297 Nei’an 311 architecture 348-50 Caoling Historic Trail 146-7 Cihu 131 308 area codes 373 car travel 377-8, 385 Cijin Island 242-3 Shanshui 311 art galleries, see museums Cat Village 141 Cinbi Village 297-8 & art galleries Shitzuwan 245 caves cinema 322, 354-5 arts 353-5, see also Wai’ao 144 Caves of the Eight Cingjing 227-8 individual arts Wang’an 310 Immortals 192 climate 18, 23, 24, 25, 32, temples 351-2 Beidawushan 282 Fengkuei Cave 309 360, see also individual arts centres Beigan 297-8, 297 Five-hole Cave 314 regions Huashan 1914 Creative Beihai Tunnel 298 Kuanyin Cave 318 coffee 46, 96, 208, 219, 271 Park 54 153-4 Little Liuchiu Island 280 Confucianism 343-4 International Pavilion of Beishan 293 Swallows Cave 317-18 Confucius Temple Indigenous Arts and Beishan Broadcasting Water & Fire Cave 270 (Changhua) 220 Cultures 68 Station 292 Whale Cave 311 Confucius Temple National Taiwan Craft (Hsinchu) 152 Research & Beitou 112-15, 113, 15 cell phones 373 Confucius Temple () Development bicycling, see cycling cemeteries 259 Institute 58 Bijia Shan 126 13th Squadron Confucius Temple birds 360, 363 Graveyard 317 (Taipei) 65 birdwatching 17, 111, 129, Jinbaoshan Cemetery 135 conservation 364 Map Pages 000 212, 221, 222, 299 Mackay Family Cemetery consulates 369 Photo Pages 000 Bitan 118-19 109 390 convenience stores 367 Donggang 273, 276 Foguangshan 251-2 hiking 14, 16, 31-3, 36-7, 15 costs 19, 43, 366, 368 Dongju 299 folk medicine 370 Baiyang Trail 179 County Rd 169 212 Dongpu 203 food 20-1, 42-7, 44, see Beidawushan 282 County Road 199 272 Dongshan Coffee Rd 271 also individual locations Bijia Shan 126 courses Dongyanshan Forest costs 368 Bitou Cape Trail 143 language 77, 371 Recreation Area 131-2 language 382-3 Caoling Historic Trail

INDEX INDEX credit cards 372 Dongyin 299 forest recreation areas, 146-7 culture 322-4, 339-42, drinks 46, 383, see also see national parks & Chaishan Nature Reserve 353-5 coffee, tea forest recreation areas 247 forests 360 C-H currency 372 driving 377-8, 385 Dabajianshan 161  customs regulations 367-8 drumming 99 forts 110 Dongju 299  cycling 38-9, 376, 385 Dulan 188-9 Anping Fort 261 Elephant Mountain east coast 11, 169-76, Duona 256 Dutch Fort 311 78, 28 10-11 Duxing 10th Village 305 East & West Fortresses Fairy Footprint 77 Fulong 144 309 Fu-Ba National Trail 128 Peninsula 275 Ershawan Fort 135-6 Green Island 319 E Hualien 171 229 earthquakes 358-9 265 246 Hemeishan 118-19 east coast 49, 166-97, 167 110 Kenting coastal loop 275 Huangdi Dian 126 accommodation 166 Hobe Fort 107-8 Little Kinmen 295 Hushan 164 climate 166, 168 Iron Fort 299 Meinong 254 internet resources 37 food 166 Iron Men’s Fort 295 Nanao 148 Jia Jiu Liao Stream Trail highlights 167 Warriors’ Fort 295 Nanliao Harbour 152 128-9 travel seasons 166, 168 Fuguei Cape 134 Pinglin 123 Jiaming Lake 196 travel to/from 168 Fulong Beach 143-4 Shimen Reservoir 125 Jiantan Mountain 78 travel within 168 Fushan Illuminated Wall Sun Moon Lake 234 Jinshui Ying Old Trail East Rift Valley 182-7 300 271, 273 Taipei 80 economy 322-4, 335, 336-7 Fusing 131-2 Lanyu 314, 315 Taroko Gorge 180 electricity 368 Fuyuan Forest Recreational Lüshui-Wenshan Trail 179 Elephant Mountain 78, 28 Area 183-4 maps 37 D Eluanbi Lighthouse 275 O’ Holy Ridge 159 Dabajianshan 161 embassies 369 G permits 36 Dahan Stronghold 299 Emei Lake 154 gables 294 Pinglin 123 dance 353, 354 emergencies 19, 37 galleries, see museums & Pingxi Crags 140 dangers, see safety language 383-4 art galleries safety 32 Dasyueshan Forest environmental issues gay travellers 94, 368 Sandiaoling Waterfall Recreation Area 210-11 357-8, 364 geography & geology 356-7 Trail 139 Daxi 146 Erkan Village 309 geothermal areas 112, 254, Shuangliou Forest deer 223 Ershawan Fort 135-6 see also hot springs Recreation Area 273 dengue fever 370 230 Gold Ecological Park 137-8 Snow Mountain Main Dewen 281 ethnicity 339-42 Green Island 317-20, 318 Peak 159-61 Dihua Street 67 etiquette Green Island Human Rights Sun Moon Lake 235 disabilities, travellers eating 47 Cultural Park 317 Syakaro Historic Trail 157 with 374 photography 372 Guandu Nature Park Taipei 77, 78 distilleries 301 temples 351 112-13 Taoyuan Valley Trail 147 diving 41 events, see festivals & Guanwu Forest Bitou Cape 143 events Recreation Area 159-61 179-80 Fulong Beach 143 exchange rates 19 Guanziling 270-1 Tonghou Trail 129 Green Island 319 Guoyeh Prismatic Basalt Walami Trail 186-7 309 Wuliao Jian 127 273, 275 F -Quadruple 159 feng-shui 294 Lanyu 315 National Fenqihu 213 H northeast coast 145 Hakka people 58-9, 252-3, Park 115 ferry travel 375, 376 Penghu 308 340 16, festivals & events 20, 23-5, dolphin watching 145 health 368-70 200-3, 201, 16 341, see also individual history 325-38 festivals & events Hehuanshan Forest Recreation Area 228-9 2-28 Incident 59 films 322, 354-5 Highway 11 173, 10-11 books 326, 329, 332, 337 Map Pages flowers 361 000 Highway 23 173 Dutch colonial era 325-8 Photo Pages Flying Fish Festival 315 000 Highway 24 281 ECFA 335 391 Japanese colonial era I entertainment 249 Longshan Temple (Lukang) 329-30 indigenous people & festivals & events 246 223 Kaohsiung Incident 333 culture 15, 68, 340, 353 food 247-8 Longshan Temple Kuomintang (KMT) festivals 25 medical services 250 (Taipei) 63, 21 331-4 insect bites & stings 370 shopping 249-50 Longshan Temple (Tamsui) 108-9 martial law 327 insurance 368, 370, 378 sights 239-46

Loshan Scenic Area 187 INDEX post-martial law 334-6 International Pavilion of tourist offices 250 Lotus Pond 243-4, 328-9 Indigenous Arts and travel to/from 250-1 244 Lukang 223-6, White Terror period 329 Cultures 68 travel within 251 224

Lunar New Year 341  H-M hitching 378 internet access 370-1 Kaohsiung Incident 333 Luye 189-91 Hoklo people 339 internet resources Kaohsiung Lion Dance  holidays 372-3 birds 360 Competition 25 Luzhou Lee Residence House 86 hot springs 15, 22, 40 blogs 324 135-6 Antong 186 cycling 39 Keelung Ghost Festival 137 Beitou 15, 114, 15 health 369 Kenting National Park M Chihpen 196 hiking 37 273-8, 274 macaques 230, 247 Dashan 129 planning 19 Kincheng 288-92, 290 Maestro Wu 292 Green Island 319 Iron Fort 299 Kinmen 13, 286-95, 287, 13 magazines 371 Guanziling 270-1 islands 50, 284-320, 285, 261, 327-8 Makung 302-8, 304 Jiaoxi 147 see also individual Kuomintang (KMT) 331-4 Ma-Kou Ecological Park Lisong 196-7 islands 148 155 accommodation 284 Mandarin Chinese 380-6 Qingquan 157 climate 284 L Manyueyuan Forest lakes Seisen 272 food 284 Recreation Area 125-7 Emei Lake 154 Sileng 149 highlights 285 Maokong 116-18, 117 travel seasons 284 Jiaming Lake 196 Tai’an 163-5, 164 Maolin Recreation Area Lake Cuifeng 149 Taipingshan National itineraries 26-30, 55, 26, 255-6 Liyu Lake 184-5 Forest Recreation 27, 29, 30 maps 371 Area 150 Lotus Pond 243-4, 244 markets 13, 22, see also Sun Moon Lake 16, night markets Taroko National Park 179 J 233-6, 234, 16 Breeze Farmers Market Yangmingshan National Japanese B encephalitis Lalashan Forest Reserve 250 Park 115-16 370 132-3 Jianguo Weekend Holiday Hou Hsiao-hsien 354, 355 Jhaishan Tunnels 292 land expropriation 358 Jade Market 100 Houbi 270 Jhushan Village 293 landslides 358-9 Peichen Market 307 Houtong 141-3 Jia Jiu Liao Stream 129 language 380-6 Wufenpu 102 Hsinchu 150-3, 151 Jialeshui 275 courses 77, 371 Yongle Market 101 150-65 Jiaming Lake 196 Lantern Festival 17, 23, 140, Zhongxin Market 205 Hualien 168-75, 170 jiǎnniàn 351 306, 17 martial law 327 accommodation 171-2 Jiantan Mountain 78 Lanyang River 357 Mass Rapid Transit 378 activities 171 Jiaoxi 147 Lanyu 15, 313-17, 313, 15 Matai’an 184 drinking 172-3 Jiji 229-30 Laomei Algal Reef 134-5 Matsu 13, 295-302, 296 food 172 Jiji Small Rail Line 230 Lee Teng-hui 334, 336-7 Matsu Cultural Village 299 medical services 175 Jilongshan 138 legal matters 371 Matsu Pilgrimage 14, 23, shopping 173-5 Jingliao 270 lei cha 155 214, 14 sights 168-71 Jingtong 142 lesbian travellers 94, 368 measures 371 tourist offices 175 Jinguashi 136-9 Liji Badlands 189 medical services 369-70 travel to/from 175 Jinsha Village 299 Lin Antai Historic House Meinong 252-5, 253 travel within 175 Jinshui Ying Old Trail 271-3 69 metro travel 378 Hualien Sugar Factory Jiufen 136-9 Lin Family Mansion & 150-65 182-3 Ju Ming 134 Garden 86 Mid-Autumn Festival 341 Huangdi Dian 126 Juguang Tower 293 Lintianshan 185 Ming Yuan Pharmacy 218 Huashan 1914 Creative Jyuguang 299 Lisong Hot Spring 196-7 Park 54 Mingchih Forest Recreation literature 355, see also Area 148-9 Huashan Coffee books Area 219 Minsheng Community 73 K Little Kinmen 295 Huazhai Traditional Kaohsiung 239-51, 240-1 Miyazaki, Hayao 138 Little Liuchiu Island Settlement 312 accommodation 246-7 mobile phones 373 278-81, 279 Huisun Forest Reserve 231 activities 246, 247 Mona Rudao Memorial 227 Liyu Lake 184-5 Hujing 310 drinking 248-9 money 368, 372 Longdong 143 392 mosques 65 Lanyang Museum 145 Togo Rural Village Art Shei-pa National Park motorcycle travel 377-8, Living Museum 305 Museum 270 158-62, 160 385 Maritime Museum 110 Wulai Atayal Museum 127 Shuangliou Forest mountain retreats 22 Matsu Folklore Culture Yingge Ceramics Recreation Area 273 mountains 356, see also Museum 300 Museum 124 Siangyang Forest individual mountains Meinong Hakka Culture music 353, 354 Recreation Area 197

INDEX INDEX MRT 378 Museum 252-3 Mt Lion Howitzer Station Military Brothel 265 293 Exhibition Hall 294 N Taipingshan National Nanao 147-9 Mt Taiwu 293 Miniatures Museum of Forest Recreation Area M-N Nangan 298-302, 300-1 149-50  Mt Tsao Moon World 254 Taiwan 67-8 Nanliao Harbour 152 Taroko National Park 49, mud volcanoes 254, 359 Municipal Glass Museum  Nanshan 293 166, 177-82, 178 Mugua River Gorge 184 152 Nantian Temple 220 Wuling Farm 162, 162 museums & art galleries Museum of Contemporary Art 226-36 Yangmingshan National 182 Art Space 260 Taipei 68-9 Nanwan 275 Park 115-16 2-28 Memorial Museum of Drinking Yushan National Park Museum 59 Nanyao Temple 220 Water 58 Nanzhuang 154-6 16, 49, 198, 200-3, August 23 Artillery War Museum of World 201, 16 Museum 294 National Centre of Religions 86 Traditional Arts 133 National Taiwan Craft Beitou Hot Spring Research & National 2-28 Memorial National Palace Museum Museum 113-14 Development Museum 55, 58 12, 71-2, 73, Beitou Museum 113 12 Institute 58 National Museum of national parks & forest Buddha Memorial Center nature reserves, see also History 58 recreation areas 31, see 251-2 national parks & forest National Museum of also nature reserves Changhua Arts Museum recreation areas Marine Biology 274 Alishan Forest 221 Chaishan Nature Reserve National Museum of Recreation Area Chung Tai Museum 231 247 Taiwan History 261 211-13, 21 Chunghwa Postal Guandu Nature Park National Museum of Aowanda National Forest Museum 60 112-13 Taiwanese Literature Recreation Area 222 Cihu Memorial Sculpture Sheding Nature Park 274 257 Chihnan National Forest Park 131 National Palace Museum Recreation Area 184-5 Wazihwei Nature Reserve Ciji Temple Museum 262 111 12, 71-2, 73, 12 Chihpen Forest Discovery Centre of National Science & Recreation Area 196 Wushanding Mud Taipei 77 Volcanoes 254, 359 Technology Museum Dasyueshan Forest Fine Arts Museum 69 243 Recreation Area 210-11 New 18 Lords Temple 134-5 Fogstand 169 National Taiwan Museum Dongyanshan Forest 122-33 Formosa Vintage 59 Recreation Area 131-2 newspapers 371 Museum Cafe 65 National Taiwan Science Fuyuan Forest night markets 13, 22, 47, Grass Mountain Chateau Education Centre 73 Recreational Area see also markets 115 Penghu Reclamation Hall 183-4 Dongdamen Ziqiang Guningtou War Museum 305-6 Guanwu Forest Night Market 172 293 Prison Museum 215 Recreation Area Fengjia Night Market Ham Gallery 245 Puli Wine Museum & 159-61 208 Hsiaomen Geology Factory 231 Hehuanshan Forest Miaokou Night Market Museum 311 Puppetry Art Centre of Recreation Area 228-9 13, 136, 13 Huchingtou War Museum Taipei 73, 75 Huisun Forest Reserve Ningxia Night Market 91 295 Saisiyat Folklore 231 Raohe Street Night Jiufen Kite Museum 138 Museum 155 Kenting National Park Market 92 Juming Museum 134 Sanyi Wood Sculpture 273-8, 274 Ruifong Night Market Museum 158 Kaohsiung Museum of Lalashan Forest Reserve 248 Fine Arts 240 Shihsanhang Museum of 132-3 Shida Night Market 89 Archaeology 111 Kaohsiung Museum of Ma-Kou Ecological Shilin Night Market 72 Shuangli Wetlands Area History 244-5 Park 148 Tonghua Night Market Centre 293 Ketagalan Culture Manyueyuan Forest 100 Shung Ye Museum of Centre 113 Recreation Area 125-7 Niushan Huting 175-6 Formosan Aborigines Land Bank Exhibition Maolin Recreation Area 72-3 North Cross-Island Hwy Hall 54-5 255-6 124 Su Ho Paper Museum 68 Mingchih Forest northern Taiwan 49, Taipei Astronomical Recreation Area 148-9 120-65, Museum 73 121 Neidong Forest accommodation 120 Map Pages 000 Taipei Story House 69 Recreation Area 127 climate 120, 122 Photo Pages 000 Tea Museum 122 Ninth National Park 312 393 food 120 children, travel with Sheding Nature Park 274 Kenting National Park highlights 121 64, 367 Shei-pa National Park 275 travel seasons 120 internet resources 19 158-62, 160 Wai’ao 146 travel to/from 122 itineraries 26-30, 26, 27, Shifen 142 Swallows Cave 317-18 travel within 122 29, 30 Shihmen Historical swimming 14, 275 nuclear waste 316 Taiwan basics 18-19 Battlefield 272 Kenting National Park

Taiwan’s regions 48-50 Shihting 126 273, 275 INDEX travel seasons 18, 23, Shihtiping 176-7 Lanyu 315 O 24, 25 Shimen Reservoir 125 Mugua River Gorge 184 O’ Holy Ridge 159 plants 360-2 Shitoushan 156-7 Wai’ao 146  N-T opening hours 372 Platform of the Three shopping 384, see also  ,opera 354 Immortals 192 individual locations outdoor activities 20, 23, politics 322-4, 331-8 markets, night markets T Tai’an Hot Springs 163-5, 25, 31-41, 367, 34-5, pollution 370 shrines see also individual 164 population 322-3, 339-42 Earth God Shrine 253 activities 203-10, 204 postal services 372 Koxinga Shrine 293 Taijiang National Park 265 pottery 351 Koxinga’s Shrine 261 Tainan 256-69, 258 P public holidays 372-3 Martyr’s Shrine 169 accommodation 266-7 pagodas, see also temples Puli 230-2 National Revolutionary activities 266 Sokang Pagodas 311 Pu-Lu Monastery 206 Martyrs’ Shrine 69 drinking & Wuntai Pagoda 293 puppetry 355 Shuangliou Forest Recreation Area 273 entertainment 268 painting 351 Purple Butterfly Valley festivals & events 266 Paper Dome 231 255-6 Shuitou Village 292 food 267-8 parks & gardens Siangyang Forest medical services 269 2-28 Peace Memorial Recreation Area 197 Park 59 Q Siouguluan Mountain 356 shopping 268-9 Qing dynasty 328-9 Botanical Gardens 60-1 Sitou 232 sights 257-66 Qingquan 157 Da’an Forest Park 65 Sixty Stone Mountain 183 tourist offices 269 Qionglin Village 292 Gold Ecological Park Smangus 157-8 travel to/from 269 137-8 smoking 371 travel within 269 Guanyin Pavilion R snakes 363 walks 263, 263 Waterfront Park 305 rabies 370 snorkelling 41, 275 Taipei 48, 52-119, 53, 56-7, Indigenous People’s radio 371 Bitou Cape 143 66-7, 74, 4, 28 Cultural Park 281 Red House 64 Green Island 319 accommodation 52, 80-7 Lin Family Mansion & religion 323, 343-7 Kenting National Park activities 77-8 Garden 86 Remains of the 13 Levels 275 children, travel with 64 Red Leaf Park 270 136-7 Lanyu 315 climate 52 Shilin Official Rénjiān Fójiào 345 Penghu 308 Da’an 65, 77, 81-2, 88-90, Residence 73 ride-sharing 378 Snow Mountain 159-60 94-5, 98-9, 100-1 Songshan Culture & Datong 65-70, 77-8, 84-5, Creative Park 76-7 river tracing 40-1 southern Taiwan 50, 237-83, 238 90-1, 95-7, 99, 101, 70 Sun Yat-sen Memorial rivers 356-7 Hall 77 Rueili 213-14 accommodation 237 drinking 92-8 Taipei City Hakka Rueisui 185-6 climate 237 emergencies 103 Cultural Park 58-9 Ruigang Highway 173 food 237 entertainment 98-9 Peace Memorial Park 297 highlights 238 festivals & events 79-80 Penghu 302-13, 303 travel seasons 237 food 52, 87-92 S travel to/from 238 highlights 53 performing arts 354 safety 32, 39, 373 travel within 238 internet access 103 photography 372 hitching 378 southernmost point 275 internet resources 98 pilgrimages 14, 214, 345-6 road 377 southwest coast 239-71 itineraries 55 Pinglin 122-3 Taroko National Park 182 Spring Scream 23 medical services 103 271-83 Wai’ao 146 stinky tofu 89, 44 nightlife 92-8 Pingxi Branch Rail Line 142 Sail Rock 275 stone carving 352 orientation 102-3 Pingxi District 139-41 281-3 Sun Moon Lake 16, 233-6, Shilin 70-3, 78, 85, 91, 97, Pingxi Sky Lantern Festival Sansia 124-7 17, 140, 17 234, 16 101, 76 Sanyi 158, 159 Pingxi Town 142 Sun Yat-sen Memorial shopping 99-102 senior travellers 368 planning, see also Hall 77 sights 54-77 Shanhou Folk Culture individual­ regions surfing Songshan 73-5, 85-7, 92, Village 292-3 budgeting 19 Fulong Beach 143 97, 101-2 Shanlinhsi 232 calendar of events 23-5 Honeymoon Bay 146 tourist offices 103 394 Taipei continued City God Temple Nanmen Matsu Temple Turtle Island 145 travel seasons 52 (Hsinchu) 151 289 TV 371 travel to/from 104-5 City God Temple Nantian Temple 220 typhoons 358-9 travel within 105-7 (Kincheng) 289 Nanyao Temple 220 Tzu Chi 174 City God Temple walks 82-3, 83 New 18 Lords Temple (Lukang) 225 134-5 Wanhua 61-4, 81, 88,

INDEX INDEX City God Temple (Tainan) 93-4, 98, 100 Official God of War V 259 Temple 260 vacations 372-3 Ximending 61-4, 81, 88, Cixian Temple 72 vaccinations 369 93-4, 98, 100, 60-1 Orthodox Luermen Ciyou Temple 75 Matsu Temple 242 Vase Rock 279 ,T-W Xinyi 75-7, 78, 87, 92  Confucius Temple Peichen Temple 306 vegetarian travellers 45 97-8, 99, 102, 78

Changhua) 220)  Zhongshan 65-70, 77-8, Puji Temple 112 visas 104, 374 84-5, 90-1, 95-7, 99, Confucius Temple Qingshan Temple 62-3 volcanoes 359 (Hsinchu) 152 101, 70 Qingshui Temple 82 volunteering 374 Confucius Temple Zhongzheng 54-61, 77, Sanlong Temple 280 (Tainan) 259 80-1, 87-8, 92-3, 98, Stone Temple 246 99, 60-1 Confucius Temple W (Taipei) 65 Temple to the Lords of Wai’ao 144-6 Taipei 101 75 the Three Mountains Daitian Temple Walami Trail 186-7 Taipei Artist Village 59-60 169 (Kaohsiung) 240-1 walking, see hiking Taipei Grand Mosque 65 Tianhou Temple 63 Da-yi Temple 309 walking tours Taipei World Trade Centre Tungching Temple 169 decorative arts 351-2 77 Tzushr Temple 125 Tainan 263, 263 Donglong Temple 276 Taipingshan National Water Fairy Temple 265 Taipei 82-3, 83 Dongyue Temple 262 Forest Recreation Area Wenwu Temple 233 Wang’an 310 etiquette 351 149-50 White Horse God Temple water, drinking 370 Taitung 191-5 Fahua Temple 262 300 water sports 40-1, see also 187-97 Fengtian Temple 215 Wind God Temple 260 individual sports Taiwanese language 380-6 Foguangshan 251-2 Wufei Temple 265 waterfalls Tamsui 107-11, 108 Fushan Temple 138 Xiahai City God Baiyang Waterfall 179 Tangci Village 297 Futian Temple 156 Temple 69 Cloud Pool Waterfall 214 Tao people 314, 316 Fuyou Temple 109 70 Golden Waterfall 137 344 Glass Matsu Temple 224 Xuanzang Temple 233 Maolin Gorge Waterfall Taroko Gorge 12, 177-8, 12 Grand Matsu Temple 257 Xuejia Ciji Temple 262 256 Taroko National Park 49, Guandu Temple 112 Yinshan Temple 107 Sandiaoling Waterfall Trail 139-40 166, 177-82, 178 Guangshan Temple 252 Zhenxing Temple 242 Shifen Waterfall Park taxes 372 history 348 Zhinan Temple 117-18 140 taxis 378 Huakuang Tati Temple Zinan Temple 232 Shui Yun Waterfall 164 tea 16, 22, 46, 93, 122, 154, 301 Tianliao Moon World 265-6 Silver Stream Cave 155, 233, 16 Kailung Temple 262 ticks 370 Waterfall 117 telephone services 373 King of Medicine Temple Tienchi 314 Wufengqi Waterfall 147 temples 11, 21, 348-52 261-2 time 373 Wulai Waterfall 127-8, 28 18 Lords Temple 134 Kuanyin Pavilion 305 tipping 372 Xiao Wulai Waterfall 131 accommodation 367 Lady Linshui’s Temple 265 tofu 89, 44 Wazihwei Nature Reserve Altar of Heaven 262 Longcyuan Temple 245-6 toilets 373 111 Anping Matsu Temple Tomb of Ryukyuan Sailors weather 18, 23, 24, 25, 32, 262 Longshan Temple (Lukang) 223 272 360, see also individual architecture 348-50 regions Longshan Temple Tomb Sweeping Day 341 Bao’an Temple 65-7, (Taipei) 63, 21 Tongpan 310 weaving 353 350, 11 Longshan Temple tourist information 373-4 websites, see internet Chaotian Temple 215 (Tamsui) 108-9 tours 77-8, see also boat resources Chingszu Temple 168 Luermen Matsu Temple tours, walking tours weights 371 Chung Tai Chan Temple 242 traditional medicine 370 western Taiwan 49, 231 Madou Temple 242 train travel 378-9 198-236, 199 Cijin Tianhou Temple 243 Matsu Temple (Lukang) travel to/from Taiwan accommodation 198 City God Temple (Chiayi) 223 375-6 climate 198 215 Matsu Temple (Makung) travel within Taiwan 376-9 food 198 304-5 Treasure Hill 55 highlights 199 Matsu Temple (Nangan) trekking, see hiking travel seasons 198 Map Pages 000 299 Tsou villages 212 travel to/from 199-200 Photo Pages 000 Nankunshen Temple 242 Tungliang Banyan Tree 308 travel within 199-200 395 wetlands 357 Wuling Forest Recreation Xin Yangnyu Mud Pond Yonghe 86 whale watching 145 Area (Wuling Farm) 254 Youfu Pavilion 309 wildlife 360-4, see also 162-3, 162 Xindian 118-19 Yuli 186 individual species Wulu 196-7 Yushan National Park 16, Wind Lions 289 Wushanding Mud 49, 198, 200-3, 201, 16 Volcanoes 254, 359 Y windsurfing 41, 308 Yami people 314 women in Taiwan 340-1 Wushe Incident 227 INDEX Yangmingshan National Z women’s health 370 Wutai 281 Park 115-16 Zhonghe 86 woodcarving 159, 351, Yeliu Geopark 135 Zhongshan Hall 61-2

W-Z  353 X Yenshui Fireworks Zinan Temple 232 work 374 Xibenyuan Temple Square Festival 266

 zoos 245 Wulai 14, 127-31, 128 64 Yingge 123-4 Xijju 299 Yoichi Hatta 358 396 NOTES 397 NOTES 398 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 399

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro/MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to . It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Piera Chen Northern Taiwan, Taroko National Park & the East Coast, Yushan National Park & Western Taiwan, Southern Taiwan, Taiwan’s Islands, Plan Your Trip, Understand Taiwan, Survival Guide When not on the road, Piera divides her time between hometown Hong Kong, Taiwan and Vancouver. She has authored more than a dozen travel guides and contributed to as many travel-related titles. Piera has a BA in Literature from Pomona College. Her early life was peppered with trips to Taiwan, China and Southeast Asia , but it was during her first trip to Europe that dawn broke. She remembers being fresh off a flight, looking around her in Rome, thinking, ‘I want to be doing this everyday.’ And she has. Read more about Piera at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/pierachen

Dinah Gardner Taipei Dinah is a freelance writer focusing on travel and politics. Since 2015 she has been happily based in Taiwan, one of Asia’s most charming and courteous countries. She’s lived in and written about Vietnam, Tibet, China, Hong Kong, ­Nepal and Bhutan. Read more about Dinah at: https://auth.lonelyplanet.com/profiles/dinahgardner

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