©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 387 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Dinah Gardner I would like to thank all the friendly Taiwanese Many thanks to the travellers who used the last people who helped me along the way, especially edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful Aidan Chuang, who truly has his finger on the advice and interesting anecdotes: Abbie Sevil, Agnès Lachasse, Alice Scharf, pulse of Taipei’s heartbeat. I am also grateful Alistair Inglis, Bethany Koch, Charlotte Toolan, to my editor, Megan, for being so patient; and Claire Brown, Dan Chen, Danielle Wolbers, Miguel Fialho, who listened patiently day after Diego Coruña, Harold Fallon, Jan Ivarsson, day! Lastly I would like to thank Taiwan itself, a Li Guan Tzung, Lisa Freeman, Mark de Haas, kind and generous host to all visitors. Neil Roth, Nick Kembel, Nicolas Combremont, Robin Weijer, Shui Ying Metselaar-Hou, Stu Keeton, Tan Yaling, Tony Backhouse, Veronica ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Matthew, Xuess Wee Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate WRITER THANKS Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. Piera Chen Special thanks to Alvin Tse and Lee Chia-jung Cover photograph: Temple, Kinmen, Lamia for much-needed support and inspiration. Lin/500px © Gratitude also goes to Max Chang, Airey Wong, Nato and Trista, Anson Ng, Mark Hanson, Sigmund and Weihsiu, Lam Lap-wai, Eric Chan, Wen Li Tesar and Evelyn Lua for making this book much stronger than I could have made it on my own. And finally a big fat thank you to Kontau and Clio for their love and patience. 388 BEHIND THE SCENES Product Editors Carolyn Cover Researcher Naomi THIS BOOK Boicos, Grace Dobell Parker This 10th edition of Lonely Senior Cartographer Thanks to Cheree Broughton, Planet’s Taiwan guidebook Julie Sheridan Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, was researched and written by Book Designer Gwen Cotter Neill Coen, Daniel Corbett, Piera Chen and Dinah Gardner. Jane Grisman, Liz Heynes, Assisting Editors Janet The previous edition was writ- Austin, Imogen Bannister, Corey Hutchison, Andi Jones, ten by Robert Kelly and Chung Kate Chapman, Katie Connolly, Lauren Keith, Virginia Moreno, Wah Chow. This guidebook Andrea Dobbin, Victoria Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, was produced by the following: Harrison, Bella Li Mazzy Prinsep, Angela Tinson, Megan Dora Whitaker Destination Editor Assisting Cartographer Eaves Alison Lyall ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 389 Index 13 Coffee 208 Red House 64 Bitou Cape 143 Chaishan Nature Reserve 18 Lords Temple 134 Taipei Performing Arts Blue Tears 298 247 2-28 Incident 59 Centre 72 boat tours 234, 275-6, 312 Changhua 220-3, 221 2-28 Memorial Museum 59 Ten Drum Rende Creative boat travel 375, 376 Checheng 226-7 Village 260-1 2-28 Peace Memorial Bombing Master Handan 194 Cheng Yen 174 Atayal people 130 Park 59 books 322 Chenggong Village 292 ATMs 372 birds 360 Chiang Kai-shek 55, 73, 115, 131, 327, 332-4 A culture 342 accommodation 366-7, B hiking 37 Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall 55 381, see also individual Baisha Bay 275 history 326, 329, 332, 337 Chiayi 214-19, locations Bali 111-12 religion 347 216 Chihnan National Forest activities 20, 23-5, 31-41, Baling 132-3 Bopiliao 63 367, 34-5, see also Recreation Area 184-5 Banqiao 86 Bowang New Village 228 individual activities Chihpen 195-6 banyan trees 308 British Consulate air travel 375, 376 children, travel with 64, 367 Bao’an Temple 65-7, 350, 11 Residence at Takou 245 alcohol 46, 301 Chimei 310 bathrooms 373 Buddhism 344-5 Ali 281 Chinese Lunar New Year 341 beaches 275 budget 19, 43, 366 Alishan National Scenic Area Chipei 310 211-13, 21 Aimen 311 Burning of the Wang Yeh Boats 276-7, Chung Tai Chan Temple 231 Ang Lee 355 Beigan 298 24 churches animals 362-4, see also Chihli 311 bus travel 376-7 Church of the Sacred individual species Chipei 310 bushwalking, see hiking Heart of Jesus 281 Anping 260 Fulong 143 business hours 372 Jinan Presbyterian butterflies 17, 362, 363, 17 Antique Assam Tea Farm Green Island 319 Church 59 233 Kenting 275 Saint Cross Church 270 Antong Hot Springs 186 Kinmen 293 Ciaotou Sugar Factory 244 Aowanda National Forest C Little Liuchiu Island 278-9 canals 264 Recreation Area 222 Ciaozai Village 297 Nei’an 311 architecture 348-50 Caoling Historic Trail 146-7 Cihu 131 Penghu 308 area codes 373 car travel 377-8, 385 Cijin Island 242-3 Shanshui 311 art galleries, see museums Cat Village 141 Cinbi Village 297-8 & art galleries Shitzuwan 245 caves cinema 322, 354-5 arts 353-5, see also Wai’ao 144 Caves of the Eight Cingjing 227-8 individual arts Wang’an 310 Immortals 192 climate 18, 23, 24, 25, 32, temples 351-2 Beidawushan 282 Fengkuei Cave 309 360, see also individual arts centres Beigan 297-8, 297 Five-hole Cave 314 regions Huashan 1914 Creative Beihai Tunnel 298 Kuanyin Cave 318 coffee 46, 96, 208, 219, 271 Park 54 Beipu 153-4 Little Liuchiu Island 280 Confucianism 343-4 International Pavilion of Beishan 293 Swallows Cave 317-18 Confucius Temple Indigenous Arts and Beishan Broadcasting Water & Fire Cave 270 (Changhua) 220 Cultures 68 Station 292 Whale Cave 311 Confucius Temple National Taiwan Craft (Hsinchu) 152 Research & Beitou 112-15, 113, 15 cell phones 373 Confucius Temple (Tainan) Development bicycling, see cycling cemeteries 259 Institute 58 Bijia Shan 126 13th Squadron Confucius Temple birds 360, 363 Graveyard 317 (Taipei) 65 birdwatching 17, 111, 129, Jinbaoshan Cemetery 135 conservation 364 Map Pages 000 212, 221, 222, 299 Mackay Family Cemetery consulates 369 Photo Pages 000 Bitan 118-19 109 390 convenience stores 367 Donggang 273, 276 Foguangshan 251-2 hiking 14, 16, 31-3, 36-7, 15 costs 19, 43, 366, 368 Dongju 299 folk medicine 370 Baiyang Trail 179 County Rd 169 212 Dongpu 203 food 20-1, 42-7, 44, see Beidawushan 282 County Road 199 272 Dongshan Coffee Rd 271 also individual locations Bijia Shan 126 courses Dongyanshan Forest costs 368 Bitou Cape Trail 143 language 77, 371 Recreation Area 131-2 language 382-3 Caoling Historic Trail INDEX credit cards 372 Dongyin 299 forest recreation areas, 146-7 culture 322-4, 339-42, drinks 46, 383, see also see national parks & Chaishan Nature Reserve 353-5 coffee, tea forest recreation areas 247 forests 360 C-H currency 372 driving 377-8, 385 Dabajianshan 161 customs regulations 367-8 drumming 99 forts 110 Dongju 299 cycling 38-9, 376, 385 Dulan 188-9 Anping Fort 261 Elephant Mountain east coast 11, 169-76, Duona 256 Dutch Fort 311 78, 28 10-11 Duxing 10th Village 305 East & West Fortresses Fairy Footprint 77 Fulong 144 309 Fu-Ba National Trail 128 Hengchun Peninsula 275 Ershawan Fort 135-6 Green Island 319 E Hualien 171 Eternal Golden Castle Hehuanshan 229 earthquakes 358-9 265 Kaohsiung 246 Hemeishan 118-19 east coast 49, 166-97, 167 Fort San Domingo 110 Kenting coastal loop 275 Huangdi Dian 126 accommodation 166 Hobe Fort 107-8 Little Kinmen 295 Hushan 164 climate 166, 168 Iron Fort 299 Meinong 254 internet resources 37 food 166 Iron Men’s Fort 295 Nanao 148 Jia Jiu Liao Stream Trail highlights 167 Warriors’ Fort 295 Nanliao Harbour 152 128-9 travel seasons 166, 168 Fuguei Cape 134 Pinglin 123 Jiaming Lake 196 travel to/from 168 Fulong Beach 143-4 Shimen Reservoir 125 Jiantan Mountain 78 travel within 168 Fushan Illuminated Wall Sun Moon Lake 234 Jinshui Ying Old Trail East Rift Valley 182-7 300 271, 273 Taipei 80 economy 322-4, 335, 336-7 Fusing 131-2 Lanyu 314, 315 Taroko Gorge 180 electricity 368 Fuyuan Forest Recreational Lüshui-Wenshan Trail 179 Elephant Mountain 78, 28 Area 183-4 maps 37 D Eluanbi Lighthouse 275 O’ Holy Ridge 159 Dabajianshan 161 embassies 369 G permits 36 Dahan Stronghold 299 Emei Lake 154 gables 294 Pinglin 123 dance 353, 354 emergencies 19, 37 galleries, see museums & Pingxi Crags 140 dangers, see safety language 383-4 art galleries safety 32 Dasyueshan Forest environmental issues gay travellers 94, 368 Sandiaoling Waterfall Recreation Area 210-11 357-8, 364 geography & geology 356-7 Trail 139 Daxi 146 Erkan Village 309 geothermal areas 112, 254, Shuangliou Forest deer 223 Ershawan Fort 135-6 see also hot springs Recreation Area 273 dengue fever 370 Ershui 230 Gold Ecological Park 137-8 Snow Mountain Main Dewen 281 ethnicity 339-42 Green Island 317-20, 318 Peak 159-61 Dihua Street 67 etiquette Green Island Human Rights Sun Moon Lake 235 disabilities, travellers eating 47 Cultural Park 317 Syakaro Historic Trail 157 with 374 photography 372 Guandu Nature Park Taipei 77, 78 distilleries 301 temples 351 112-13 Taoyuan Valley Trail 147 diving