Italian Railway Heritage— the Tuscan Nature Train Stefano Maggi

Feature Heritage Railways (part 2)

Italian Railway Heritage— The Tuscan Nature Train Stefano Maggi

In Italy, preservation of railway heritage is Finally, in 1885, the government entrusted railwaymen in 1905 and the more a very recent development because only operations to three big companies while conservative classes were afraid of their Roman and medieval remains were retaining ownership of lines, permanent rebellious attitude. Strikes became a considered ‘history.’ This article describes installations, while the rolling stock was ‘normal’ feature of Italian railways in the Ferrovia Val’d Orcia (Val d’Orcia sold to the companies. following years, paralyzing the nation’s Railway) in Tuscany as a case study of the The Italian peninsula was divided life more and more. problems facing Italian tourist railways and longitudinally to encourage north– The railways remained under direct vintage trains. The Val d’Orcia Railway south traffic and overcome the State management until 18 April 1985 where old diesel railcars run and steam considerable differences between these when privatization started with the engines haul vintage carriages through two regions of Italy. The eastern establishment of the autonomous Ente beautiful scenery is one of the few examples network was entrusted to the Società Ferrovie dello Stato (Italian State of preserved railways in Italy. Adriatica, which managed 4300 km of Railways), 80 years after the 1905 lines, while the western network was nationalization. The goals of the new Summary of Italian Railways entrusted to the Società per le Strade autonomous railway company were until Today Ferrate del Mediterraneo, which economy and efficiency and the managed 4100 km of lines. The third Minister of Transport and Navigation, A national Italian railway network was only company, Sicula, managed 1100 km of Claudio Signorile, only retained formed in the 1860s due to the late national lines in the Italian islands. Each supervisory powers3. unification in 1861, and delayed economic company was granted a 60-year The establishment of Italian State Railways development. However, some of the more operations lease, subdivided into three was the first big reform in the Italian developed regions like Piedmont, periods of 20 years each1. administration and the reform started a Lombardy and Tuscany already had small This system collapsed within a few years series of changes that led to the networks totalling about 2200 km. After too and after repeated financial bailouts, privatization of other government sectors. the Italian State was established, the new the State nationalized the entire network The financial crisis in late 1991 forced the government viewed railways as essential of 13,000 km in April 1905—relatively government to adopt decisive measures to links in connecting the different economies early compared to railway privatize big public enterprises and Italian and societies of the new nation. nationalizations in other European State Railways was transformed in 1992 Before 1865, different sections of railways countries2. Initially, an autonomous State into Italian Railways (FS), a company with were managed differently due to different railway administration called Ferrovie the entire capital held by the State. In the pre-unification histories. The State dello Stato with a board of directors that past few months, FS has been split into four railways, especially those in Piedmont, had the freedom to take managerial divisions: passengers, freight, regional existed together with lines owned by decisions was established, but it soon transport and infrastructure. private companies and each received very came under tight political control. different concessions. Sometimes the Railways have been very important in Railway Heritage and Historical infrastructure belonged to the State while Italian history for political, economic and Trains in Italy the operations were entrusted to private social reasons; railway works consumed societies, which received a public grant the largest part of the public purse and In Italy, development of tourist historical for each kilometer of line managed or led to the creation of fundamental political trains was independent of the then little- sometimes a guaranteed revenue for their alliances, while railway workers formed known railway preservation movement shares. the largest labour bloc nationwide. that started in the UK in 1951. In 1865, the government decided that When Italian industry began to boom Development of Italian tourist trains railway construction and operation should around the turn of the century, railway started in the 1980s and 1990s when be entrusted to five private companies. workers formed the core of a growing left- groups of steam enthusiasts would charter However, the system almost immediately wing socialist movement. Railwaymen steam trains for special outings to the collapsed and the State had to spend huge seemed to embody the social countryside on secondary lines or on the sums of money in ‘ransom’ and to balance modernization following in the wake of national network. company budgets. This bad experience new lines linking isolated rural towns and Due to this tourism origin and lack of resulted in a long public debate about a regions with national life in the cities. knowledge about the preservation new system of organizing railways. The first national strike in Italy was by movement, many historical trains went to

18 Japan Railway & Transport Review 31 • June 2002 Copyright © 2002 EJRCF. All rights reserved. the breaker’s yard, especially in the mid- near the Swiss border, the Turin Local The Val d’Orcia Railway: 1990s when the cancer-inducing Railways (SATTI), the Genoa–Casella A Century of History properties of asbestos—which was used Railway (FGC), Padane Railways (FP) near extensively in old trains—became known. Ferrara, Arezzo Railways (LFI), and The decision to build a railway line The problem was further exacerbated Calabria Railways (FC) on a narrow-gauge between Siena and Grosseto was made because many Italians only considered line in the Sila highlands, sometimes run in 1859 just before the unification of Italy Roman and medieval relics as historically historical trains. in 1861. At that time, Grosseto was a important and so there was no culture of FS run a few charter and special vintage village of some 4000 people that became industrial archaeology until recent years. trains on normal lines6 and they have just almost deserted in summer, when the Consequently, vintage trains were treated restored some steam engines, vintage public offices, etc., were transferred to as old scrap4. wagons, electric and diesel locomotives, the hills of Scansano to escape the Tourist railways typically belong to local and railcars for such purposes7. ravages of endemic malaria. There were railway companies. One principal Moreover, FS has been operating the 10-km no railway connections in the Maremma example is the Trenino Verde della Ferrovia del Basso Sebino (Basso Sebino region and the nearest lines stopped at Sardegna (Small Green Train of Sardinia) Railway) located near Milan8 since 1994, and Livorno and Siena. run by Ferrovie della Sardegna (Sardinian the 52-km Val d’Orcia Railway in Tuscany The route of the line was difficult and the Railways). It operates mostly during since 1995, in conjunction with two voluntary planners tried to avoid a line based only summer with normal rolling stock, but associations comprising the Ferrovie Turistiche on Maremma traffic which was an special charters with old carriages hauled Italiane (Italian Tourist Railways Association)9. unknown factor. As a result, the line was by a steam locomotive are run on lines The rest of this article describes the Treno routed to service the mountainous Amiata closed to normal traffic5. Natura (Nature Train) running on the Val area, a population centre in the Maremma Other local companies such as the d’Orcia Railway. region, and to run through the Asso and Domodossola–Locarno Railways (SSIF) Orcia valleys.

Map of Circular Route of Val d’Orcia Railway

Nature Train running past flowering trackside Opuntia cactus (Author)

The first section from Asciano to Torrenieri business was abandoned soon after it Tickets are sold on the trains by volunteer was opened in May 1865 and the next opened in September 1991. Then the most staff who explain the scenery to stretch as far as Monte Amiata Station was interesting section between Asciano and passengers through a speaker system; the opened in August 1871. The entire line Monte Antico was closed to ordinary rail volunteers also design advertising and entered full service on 27 May 1872 with service in September 1994. Protests caused publicity materials; staff a bookings and a grand official ceremony attended by the by the line closure motivated the Siena information bureau; organize village Minister of Public Works and the highest Provincial Council and FS to relaunch the festivals; and sell books, travel guides, municipal authorities10. Nature Train project as a charter managed postcards, etc. The railway played an important role in by a travel agency. The Nature Train covers more than 50% connecting the Maremma region with the However, the train operation was not a of its costs from the farebox, which is rest of Tuscany. It was also useful for financial success and in 1996, FS agreed better than the 35% average for branch freight transport. For example, cinnabar to hand over operations to the Val d’Orcia lines, and the Siena Provincial Council ore from the nearby mercury mines was Railway, a voluntary association of retired subsidizes the remaining 50%. Instead carried in special carts to Monte Amiata railway workers and other interested of just running some trains with no specific Station, where it was loaded on the trains. people who now run regular Nature Train connection to infrastructure, the project’s Restaurants inside almost every railway services on 15 to 20 holidays during May, philosophy is to invigorate a proper tourist station became social meeting places for June, September and October over the and preserved railway12. the local residents. Asciano–Monte Antico route11. Although the Nature Train is subsidized The Siena–Buonconvento–Monte Most Nature Train services use 50-year- by the Siena Provincial Council and Antico Line was completed much later old diesel railcars but sometimes old despite the fact that the lines and the trains in 1927 partly on the roadbed of the steam engines haul vintage wagons dating are owned by FS, the voluntary old tracks at the Murlo Mine, which back to the 1910s and 1920s. The association is actually the sole manager were constructed in 1877 to carry ore timetables have been arranged to connect of the business. to Monte Antico Station. with ordinary train services at Siena, The number of annual passengers This railway was managed by a private Asciano and Monte Antico, so the train is between 1996 and 2001 has increased company until 1956 when it joined Italian easy to reach from Florence, Rome, and greatly from 4700 to about 7000, most of State Railways, which closed the Siena– Grosseto. Special rover tickets permit whom are interested in the landscape, Buonconvento section 10 years later. The travel for a whole day on trains comprising meals in the countryside, and historical line was completely reopened for the circuit with no restrictions on travel at slow speeds in old railcars and passenger service in 1980. intermediate stops. vintage wagons hauled by steam

The Nature Train

The starting point to operating a tourist train over the Siena–Asciano–Monte Antico– Buonconvento–Siena circuit dates back to 1990 during a period of increased environmental sensitivity. The railway tracks run through woods and along river banks in areas of the Artistic Natural and Cultural Park of the Val d’Orcia that cannot be reached by road. Running a so-called Nature Train combining train travel and trekking seemed like a good way of seeing Italian nature and the Siena Provincial Council resolved to help finance the idea. The original Nature Train was a charter managed by a travel agency but the Steam hauled Nature Train at Torrenieri Station (Author)

20 Japan Railway & Transport Review 31 • June 2002 Copyright © 2002 EJRCF. All rights reserved. Nature Train diesel railcar crossing Montalceto Viaduct (Author) Torrenieri Station will be renovated as an entrance to the Artistic Natural and Cultural Park of the Val d’Orcia. (Author) locomotives. Some see the travel as being over to the Artistic Natural and Cultural railway—assuming that the present like that in the 1950s before widespread Park of the Val d’Orcia, a private body railway is just a start—some investments motorization—an impression that is created by all the municipalities of the are needed. A comprehensive plan to enhanced by the period uniforms worn area that operates in the territory of the develop the area as a working museum by the railwaymen and volunteers. railway. As a result, the Val d’Orcia should be studied. This can be achieved The project has an educational aim as Railway has become one of the park’s by restoring the old rolling stock and well—familiarizing schoolchildren with greatest attractions. stations without losing the main focus on the environment and with using public The intense summer heat of July saw nature and the environment. In short, the transport, which is a first for many of them. decreased tourism to the region so Nature great popularity of the railway so far can The local section of the Italian Alpine Train runs were stopped in mid-June and be used to extend the project in the longer Club (CAI) has given great support to the resumed in mid-September. But due to term into the realm of heritage plan and has marked out some footpaths the train’s increasing popularity, summer preservation and industrial archaeology. along the line in order to combine train services have been increased by two extra Footpaths between stations have been travel with trekking. There are several runs in July since 2001. marked out since 1997 and the routes to suit the different age groups and Support for closer links between tourist priority now is to equip the stations cyclists. A successful project for railways and scenic tourism has emerged with tables and benches, information schoolchildren has also been developed at the national level, too. In 1999, the boards on the locality and feasible thanks to the CAI members. Minister for the Environment, Edo Ronchi, excursions routes, etc. Beyond the fundamental role of allocated funds to rebuild some stations Until the 1980s, when the line was still volunteering, the agreement between the and to open entrances to the Park from in active operation, some stations had Siena Provincial Council and FS is the stations. passengers refreshment facilities. significant because it demonstrates a real The Val d’Orcia Railway Association itself Perhaps at least one restaurant or bar interest in the historical train on the part has decided to restore the historic should be reopened along the route. of the regional authorities, despite overall Torrenieri Montalcino Station, which dates Moreover, some station buildings could Italian backwardness concerning heritage back to 1865 and was built by the most be transformed in hotels and hostels. A preservation. Following Siena’s example, talented local architects of the time. The railway restaurant in the mid-20th in 2000 and 2001, other local authorities station was the terminal for the line to century style might be popular with in Tuscany have promoted historical Grosseto between the opening of the first visitors, promote the railway and bring trains, but regular services like the Nature section in 1865 and the completion in revenue too. It could offer chances for Train are not presently planned. 1872; many buildings like the engine organizing festivals, wedding receptions, As a demonstration of how the Val d’Orcia depot are still in good basic shape but etc., thus linking the train with regional Railway Association managed to persuade require some renovation. foods, which are very important in Italy the institutions of the importance of and in Tuscany in particular! linking rails and landscape, from 2001 the Although seven out of 25 Nature Train Siena Provincial Council has started ‘Building’ a Preserved Railway services each year are steam hauled, handing both the financing of the Nature increasing the number of services and Train and the management of the project To create a real tourist and preserved charters will require more rolling stock

Turntable at Asciano Station on Val d’Orcia Railway (Author) Water column for steam locomotives on Val d’Orcia Railway (Author)

beyond the available diesel railcars. A engineers of the late 19th and early 20th The viaduct at Montalceto and the bridge sufficient collection of vintage carriages centuries have been replaced by new over the River Ombrone near Monte Antico in the right livery is needed along with technologies but many of these old were redesigned and rebuilt in concrete more steam engines. technologies can still be seen on the Val instead of brick after the war too. Another fundamental point to tackle is the d’Orcia Railway. For example, the line Finally, there are the numerous personal growth of the volunteers. At the still has two mechanical signals near abandoned wayside cottages that housed moment, volunteers are mainly devoted Monte Amiata Station. Other examples the track workers and their families. to selling tickets onboard but they should are the hand-operated points at Asciano be able to take on the role of guard, and Monte Amiata that rely on a system The Landscape—Railway stationmaster, fireman, engine driver, etc. of numbered interlocks to keep the trains Resource Volunteers could also handle the rolling- moving safely. stock restoration and preservation. The stations still have the railway Val d’Orcia in southern Tuscany is far from Perhaps the cost savings of using telephones imported from the USA in the main roads and traffic jams. There is an volunteers could enable the tourist railway 1920s to replace the railway telegraph. old bond between the people and the to operate on a day-to-day basis without Other parts of the historic inventory are land, enabling them to maintain a public money. the 1865 locomotive depots at Asciano dignified relationship with the and Torrenieri. Torrenieri Station itself is environment that is now hard to find. Industrial Archaeology on of great architectural value and The landscape is characterized by startling Val d’Orcia Railway demonstrates the strong 19th-century and extraordinary calanchi slopes and determination to build attractive railway ridges. The strange biancane clay knolls In Italy, old railway rolling stock, stations, stations symbolizing the interface between have such an unmistakable impact that bridges, tunnels, etc., have only recently the rural idyll and the new modernity. several have preservation orders on them. begun to be seen as having artistic and Also the size of the goods yard that In the past, this lunar landscape put archaeological merit. Conversely, the handled all the products of the Val d’Orcia wonder and even fear into the hearts of economic value of vintage trains is and the Mount Amiata regions for more writers like Dickens, Hawthorne and De coming to be understood so the problem than a century is an important industrial Sade on their Grand Tour. Today, the area is how to preserve old railway heritage heritage demonstrating the remarkable is famous thanks to painters like Dario while keeping a tourist dimension. The goods traffic. Neri, Aleardo Paolucci and Aleandro Luzi experience of the Nature Train is a first Other important artifacts include water and cinema and TV. step on this journey. columns, hand-operated 1865 turntable, But the Val d’Orcia is not only the softly Some of the best technological and tunnels, some of which were rolling clay hills, there are beautiful Ilex achievements of the best railway extensively rebuilt at the portals after WWII. groves, springs and woodlands. The small

22 Japan Railway & Transport Review 31 • June 2002 Copyright © 2002 EJRCF. All rights reserved. picturesque towns of Amiata sit on hilltops some 700-m above sea level. The historic town squares are still perfectly preserved in a region where history and art are linked by nature13. The Artistic Natural and Cultural Park of the Val d’Orcia was established to promote and preserve the natural resources of this land where the dynamics of day-to-day life are still inspired and integrated with traditions like good 2001 Leaflet for Val d’Orcia Railway (Author) regional food including fine wines, cheeses, olive oil, honey, meats, salamis, on volunteer staff, low speeds, frequent tourist railways and preservation of cereals and handicrafts. stops, short sections and the presence of heritage railways seems likely to assure And all this beauty can be seen from Nature just a single train operation on a closed their future growth and success. I Train as it travels from Asciano to Monte track. Tourist railways urgently need a Antico along the Val d’Orcia Railway. new set of rules to cover their unique This article was first presented at the international conference ‘Slow Train Coming: Heritage Railways in circumstances. However, the support of the 21st Century,’ held in York in September 2001. the Italian public and volunteers for Conclusions and Problems

Notes 7. Il deposito rotabili storici di Pistoia (The Pistoia shed Tourist railways are gaining momentum for historic rolling stock), edited by N. Baldi, Firenze, 1. S. Maggi, Politica ed economia dei trasporti. Secoli XIX– Pegaso, pp. 53–81, 2001. in Italy and there are new plans to follow XX. Una storia della modernizzazione italiana 8. Ferrovia del Basso Sebino, Un binario lungo l’Oglio. (Transport policy and economics. XIX–XX centuries. A the examples set by the Basso Sebino La ferrovia Palazzolo sull’Oglio-Paratico Sarnico e i history of Italian modernization), Bologna, Il Mulino, trasporti sul Lago d’Iseo (A track along the River Oglio. Railway and the Val d’Orcia Railway. pp. 37–38, 2001. The Palazzolo-sull’Oglio–Paratico-Sarnico railway and 2. A. Papa, Classe politica e intervento pubblico nell’età Although some envisage reconstruction of transport on Lake Iseo), Bergamo, 1996. giolittiana. La nazionalizzazione delle ferrovie (Political 9. Internet: http://www.ferrovieturistiche.it. tracks, few have yet to start running but class and public intervention in the age of Giolitti. The 10. S. Maggi, La ferrovia per la Maremma (The railway for railway nationalization), Naples, Guida, 1973. local public transport reforms provide Maremma), Siena, Nuova Immagine Editrice, pp. 23– 3. G. Coletti, Storia di una riforma. L’ente Ferrovie dello 24, 1997. hope that tourist and preservation railways Stato (History of reform. The State Railways Board), 11. Viaggio sul Treno Natura. Guida storico-paesaggistica Roma, Cafi, pp. 371–373, 1985. will benefit from more sympathetic con otto itinerari escursionistici (Travel in the Nature 4. S. Maggi, In treno per diporto. Dal turismo ferroviario Train. History and landscape guide with eight excursion treatment by local authorities. alle ferrovie turistiche. Esperienze e prospettive (By train routes), edited by S. Maggi, Siena, Nuova Immagine for pleasure. From railway tourism to tourist railways. However, there is still much resistance: Editrice, pp. 9–10, 2000. Experiences and perspectives), Siena, Copinfax, pp. 34– 12. S. Maggi, Conservation et mise en valeur du patrimoine transport chairmen who seem unwilling 35, 1997. ferroviaire par le tourisme: l’exemple du “Train Nature”, 5. Il trenino verde della Sardegna (The Small Green Train to try to understand these projects; town train touristique Asciano-Monte Antico (Toscane) of Sardinia), vol. I Da Mandas ad Arbatax (From Mandas (Tourism preservation and exploitation of railway and provincial authorities who consider to Arbatax), vol. II Da Mandas a Sorgono (From Mandas heritage: The example of the Nature Train, a tourist to Sorgono), vol. III Da Macomer a Bosa (From the train beyond the interests of local train from Asciano to Monte Antico (Tuscany)), Revue Macomer to Bosa), vol. IV Da Sassari a Tempio (From d’Histoire des chemins de fer, No. 20 & 21, pp. 278– government; some FS branches who try Sassari to Tempio), vol. V Da Tempio a Palau (From 279, 1999. Tempio to Palau), edited by A. Boccone and L. Demelas, to undermine prospects for efficient 13. Internet: http://www.parcodellavaldorcia.com. Cagliari, Edisar, 1996. railway management by volunteers. 6. Internet: http://www.railtouritalia.it But the resisters need to realize that tourist trains and railway preservation projects can have an amazing impact on the economies Stefano Maggi of small towns and secondary railway lines by creating new tourism traffic. Dr Maggi is a researcher in the Faculty of Political Science at the University of Siena. He has been Another technical issue that must be Chairman of the Val d’Orcia Railway Association since 1996. He has a PhD in history and an MSc in transport economics and has published extensively on railway and transport history in Italy and Africa. tackled soon is overstrict regulation of crews (each Nature Train still has two engine drivers and a guard) that does not match the needs of tourist railways based