Vol. 4 4 4 4 No. 3No. 3No. 3No. 3 Vol. Vol. Vol. Vol.

Autumn 2011 2011 2011 2011 Autumn Autumn Autumn Autumn 11-1550000-000639-08 11-1550000-000639-08 11-1550000-000639-08 Government Publications Registration Number Number Number Registration Registration Registration Publications Publications Publications Government Government Government

Autumn 2011 Vol. 4 No. 3

ISSN 2005-0151ISSN 2005-0151ISSN 2005-0151ISSN 2005-0151 Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Autumn 2011 Vol. 4 No. 3

Cover

White symbolizes autumn. The symbolism originates from the traditional “five direc- tional colors” based on the ancient Chi- nese thought of wuxing, or ohaeng in Ko- rean. The five colors were associated with seasons and other phenomena in nature, including the fate of humans. The cover design features uigwe, the royal books of the Dynasty. For more stories about uigwe, see p. 38.

KOREAN HERITAGE is also available on the website. ( http://english.cha.go.kr ) CHA News Vignettes Korean Flavor

Korean Handicrafts Exhibition at UNESCO , the Time-old Popular Delicacies The Cultural Heritage Administration will display traditional Korean handicrafts at Koreans have eaten diverse kinds of cakes since ancient times. The origins of these the UNESCO headquarters in Paris on September 19-28. The exhibition will have popular delicacies, called tteok, probably date back to the beginning of agricultural 100 works of master artisans who hold the title of “Important Intangible Cultural society. Heritage.” Tteok is made mainly from rice and thus is commonly Academic Conferences Marking CHA’s 50th Anniversary known in English as “rice cakes.” But it usually con- tains other ingredients such as millet, barley and beans, As part of its 50th anniversary events, the Cultural Heritage Administration will and nuts and fruits. Grouped according to preparation conduct a series of academic conferences on September 26-30, at the National Pal- method, the rice cakes are generally divided into four ace Museum of in . An international symposium on September 26 will categories: steamed, pounded, molded, and pan-fried. evaluate the Administration’s activities during the past half century and analyze in- Best known among steamed types is sirutteok, which ternational trends in preservation and utilization of cultural heritage. Themes for the is made of rice flour layered with cooked red beans and steamed in a pottery steamer following conferences are: “Gaeseong, the Royal Capital of the Dynasty” called a siru. Whole grains of rice are steamed and pounded hard with a mallet to make on September 27; “Cultivation and Development of Ancient Cities” on September sticky cakes: injeolmi, which are covered with bean powder, and jeolpyeon, which are 28; “Korean History Education and its Relevance to Cultural Heritage” on Septem- stamped with patterns and coated with sesame oil. ber 29; and “Surveys on Korean Folklore in the Past 40 Years and Future Tasks” on September 30. Among the molded cakes are gyeongdan, small balls of or sorghum dough boiled in water and covered with bean paste or syrup. Songpyeon, or “pine ,” Restoration of Palace Stream better known as “half-moon rice cake,” is a more popular type; it is made by stuffing a The “forbidden stream,” or geumcheon, in the entrance area of Changdeok Palace small half-moon-shaped piece of rice flour dough with a filling, which comes in dozens will be restored to have clean water flow there for the first time in many decades. of kinds. Hwajeon typically refers to “flower cakes,” or thin round patties of glutinous The project is scheduled to be completed in October this year. During the Joseon rice dough pan-fried with azalea petals on top. Dynasty, when kings crossed the stream over a stone bridge, it was regarded as a renewed pledge for clean governance. The Japanese cut off the stream during the Although demand has markedly declined, tteok continues to have a significant place colonial period. in Korean dietary life today and is still considered indispensable for most festive occa- sions or family rituals. Autumn 2011 Vol. 4 No. 3

CONTENTS

08 Rediscovery of Korean Palaces 26 Photo Gallery

Life and Culture in Royal Palace A Lesser Known Center of Culture The King’s Life: Light and Shadow Iksan Another Capital of Baekje

14 Intangible Heritage 34 Foreigner’s View

Korean Mulberry Paper Made by Nature Soswaewon: Searching for the Hidden Beauty in Korean Traditional Culture

18 Natural Heritage 38 Overseas Cultural Assets

Jindo Dogs and Sapsaree Joseon Royal Books Return Home after 145 Years Korean Breeds of ‘Man’s Best Friends’ in France

22 Special Report 42 Modern Heritage

Warning Cup Teaches Modesty Aficionados of 100 Years Ago – A Landscape in Modern Korea Rediscovery of Korean Palaces 8 | 9

Life and Culture in Royal Palace The King’s Life: Light and Shadow

Editor’s Note: “Rediscovery of Korean Palaces” is a four-part series on the history and culture of Korean royal palaces of the Joseon Dynasty (1391-1910) in Seoul. The two previous installments examined palace symbolism, the layout of buildings and garden architecture. This installment and the last part shed light on the lifestyle and culture in the palaces.

Text by The Cultural Heritage Administration Photos by Graphickorea & Goodimage

Ruling under a mandate from heaven, the father in accordance with the principle 1. The king’s throne. king commanded absolute loyalty from com- of primogeniture: they were Munjong moners and led a luxurious life, but in his (r. 1450-1452), the fifth king; Danjong (r. heart and soul, he might have been the lone- 1452-1455), the sixth king; Yeonsangun (r. liest person in his realm, destined to endure 1494-1505), the 10th king; Injong (r. 1544- the unforgiving formality and confinement 1545), the 12th king; Hyeonjong (r. 1659- behind the lofty walls. 1674), the 18th king; Sukjong (r. 1674-1720), the 19th king; and Sunjong (r. 1907-1910), Crown Prince, the Heir to the Throne the 27th king. Nineteen princes born to royal The Joseon Dynasty established two essen- concubines ascended the throne because their tial rules for succession. First, the first son virtues were highly esteemed or because the of the reigning monarch born to his lawful king sired no son by the queen. queen would inherit the throne. Second, the heir to the throne should be a virtuous man. Four crown princes died before ascending The reigning king’s son who met these con- the throne: they were Prince Dowon (1438- ditions was named the crown prince, or seja, 1457, posthumously Deokjong), Prince Sun- literally “the son to carry on the royal lineage hoe (1551-1563), Prince Sohyeon (1612- of the dynasty,” and devoted himself to mak- 1645) and Prince Hyomyeong (1809-1830, ing all necessary preparations as the future posthumously Ikjong). Three crown princes king. failed to reach the throne as they were de- posed: they were Prince Yangnyeong, who Of the 26 kings after the founder Taejo, had to step down to clear the way for his 1 only seven took over the throne from their younger brother, later Sejong, who was more Rediscovery of Korean Palaces 10 | 11

(Donggung). The crown prince’s residence, 3.The Royal Protocol on the Wedding of King also called the Spring Palace (Chungung), Yeongjo and Queen was guarded by a separate security com- Jeongsun (Yeongjo Jeongsun wanghu garye mand. The residence largely consisted of a dogam uigwe) documents private academy, where the crown prince the entire wedding of King Yeongjo and his was taught by the nation’s finest scholars to second wife, Queen be the next ruler. Jeongsun, held in 1759, from preparations to all the rites. The daily regime was rigorous and tightly scheduled. It began with dressing in formal attire before visiting the king and all senior members of the royal household at their quar- ters to render morning greetings and inquire about the state of their health. Classes were held in the morning, afternoon and evening 3 and in between he cultivated his skills in the six arts, which included rites, music, archery, Ascension of the New Monarch with both hands folded on their forehead, horseback riding, calligraphy and mathemat- The coronation of the new king was held on shouted from the courtyard, “Cheon cheon ics. At night, before going to bed, the crown the sixth day after the passing of the previous se,” meaning “[Long live the dynasty for] prince again visited seniors in the royal fam- king. The crown prince’s tent was pitched to thousands and thousands of generations.” ily to bid good night individually. the east of the royal mortuary where the de- ceased king’s body was laid, and in the tent Royal Seal and Screen with the Sun, the Coronation amid State Funerals was displayed the deceased king’s will, royal Moon and Five Peaks In the Joseon Dynasty, the new king took seal and other ritual paraphernalia. The existence of the king itself was the fore- over the throne upon the previous monarch’s most symbol of the dynasty. The king lived death, abdication or dethronement. Of the 27 After changing in his tent from his mourning in a regal environment symbolizing the state kings of Joseon, seven stepped down from garb to the king’s full ceremonial robe and and the heavenly mandate bestowed upon the throne due to failing health, coup d’etat, crown, the crown prince went to the court- him, while his every word and movement or other reasons. They were Taejo (r. 1392- yard in front of the royal mortuary, where he carried profound meaning. The royal seal 1398), the founder of the dynasty; Jeongjong and the screen with the sun, the moon and 2 received the preceding king’s will and royal (r. 1398-1400), the second king; Taejong five peaks were the most representative ob- seal and then handed them over to the chief 4. A royal seal symbol- 2. A painting depicts the capable than himself; and the eldest sons of (r. 1400-1418), the third king; Danjong (r. and second state councilors, respectively. jects symbolic of the king’s authority. izing the king’s power. investiture ceremony of 1452-1455), the sixth king; Yeonsangun (r. Crown Prince Munhyo Yeonsangun and Gwanghaegun, both de- The crown prince then returned to his tent (1782-1786), the son of posed for tyranny and misrule. 1494-1506), the 10th king; Gwanghaegun (r. for a respite and then boarded a palanquin for Jeongjo. 1608-1623), the 15th king; and Gojong (r. his procession to the throne hall, escorted by Investiture of the Crown Prince 1864-1907), the 26th king. The rest of the 20 royal guards holding red parasols and blue The crown prince was invested in a ceremo- kings died while still occupying the throne, fans. ny held at the main throne hall. The ceremo- bequeathing the mandate to their successors. nial procedures are described in detail in the Therefore, most of the Joseon kings ascend- The crown prince ascended to the throne via book, Five Rites of the State (Gukjo orye ui). ed to the throne during the period of official the staircase to the right-hand side and the After formal investiture, the crown prince mourning for the preceding king. Coronation new king was proclaimed in an edict as the symbolized his status as the rising power was practically part of the funeral proceed- fragrance of burning incense permeated the by living in the eastern section of the palace ings. throne hall and the rank-and-file courtiers, 4 Rediscovery of Korean Palaces 12 | 13

fancy foods made of the best ingredients kings might have been the loneliest souls in provided from all regions across the country, their palaces, who were destined to endure and waited upon by beautiful court ladies. the unforgiving formality and confinement Renowned doctors were on hand around behind the lofty walls. the clock and constantly checked the kings’ health but few of the monarchs enjoyed good health mentally or physically.

5. A painting of the sun, From the day of their accession the kings the moon and five peaks had to live up to heavy obligations. Worse forms the symbolic background of the king’s still, their daily routine of meeting people 5 throne. and reading papers made them sedentary. A sedan chair kept them seated even when The royal seal was made of jade, hence it was his subjects. The screens still remain as the moving within the palace grounds. Except called oksae. With its history traced back to background setting of the throne in Joseon 6. People kowtow toward for archery or polo and some simple exercis- the Qin Dynasty in , the royal seal was royal palaces and portraits of kings. the royal palace during ing, there was very little need for the kings to the funeral of Emperor put on documents that announced appoint- Sunjong, the 27th and the exert themselves. As a result, the rulers often ments of officials, authorized decisions on The King’s Day Filled with Duties last ruler of the Joseon had problems in blood circulation and suf- Dynasty. state affairs and ordered their implementa- The kings of Joseon varied widely in their fered from high blood pressure or diabetes. tion. The royal seals used during the Joseon ruling periods or the duration of life. They Dynasty were mostly presented by Chinese also differed greatly in their age at the time emperors of the Ming and Ching dynasties of accession. For example, Heonjong as- The average life span of Joseon kings was in a gesture of their recognition of the acces- cended to the throne when he was only seven 44 years. Many of them died while suffer- sion of the new king. Taejo, the founder of years old, while Taejo became king at 57. As ing from eye disease, rash, or a stroke, while Joseon, returned the royal seal of the Goryeo the reigning king, they lived very busy lives. more than a few were victimized by political Dynasty to the imperial court of Ming and Hence the king’s occupation was said to re- upheaval. Danjong, the sixth king, was de- asked for a new seal for his newfound dy- quire mangi, meaning “ten thousand skills.” moted to a prince by his uncle, Prince Suy- nasty. But his request was repeatedly denied. The king’s daily routine had four phases: lis- ang, or later Sejo, who usurped the throne Therefore, for some 10 years after the found- tening to reports on state affairs in the morn- from him. At 17, the dethroned king was ing of the dynasty, the king of Joseon had ing; meeting visitors during the day; reading banished to a remote mountainous village to use a seal made on its own, which was laws and regulations in the evening; and surrounded by a river on three sides, where named the “Royal Treasure of Joseon” (Jo- looking after himself at night. he died by taking poison sent by his uncle. seon wangbo). He was the youngest Joseon king to die. Two The King’s Health and Death other kings, Yeonsangun and Gwanghaegun, A screen painted with the sun, the moon and Twenty-five kings of Joseon died as the died at their places of exile, after being oust- five mountain peaks was set at the back of the reigning or former monarch while the oth- ed in coups due to misgovernance. king’s seat all the time. The highly symbolic er two were ousted in coups. Although the motifs of these paintings, called irwol oak kings supposedly were chosen by heaven History often describes kings as fairy tale he- do, are usually identified with the king and to rule the country, they were also immor- roes. But, as individuals, the kings were not the queen, as the ulterior symbols of yin and tals whose life and death were matters out of always happy; the glistening luxury and sol- yang, and the five elements or the five move- their control. emn dignity often hided loneliness and agony ments of the universe, or ohaeng (wuxing in underneath, because the kings were also hu- Chinese). They are sometimes said to express The kings led luxurious lives in magnificent mans who longed for personal freedom and the boundless bliss and luck for the king and palaces, wearing gorgeous clothes, eating comfort. Despite their gorgeous lifestyle, the 6 Intangible Heritage 14 | 15

Korean Mulberry Paper Made by Nature

Text by Lee Seung-cheol | Assistant Professor at the Department of Painting, Dongduk Women’s University Photos by National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage

Repair work on the Sakyamuni Pagoda coarse and in limited supply. Hence the an- 1.The dried sheets of mulberry paper are beaten (Seokgatap) at Bulguksa temple in Gyeongju, cient Koreans looked for an alternative ma- repeatedly to increase the old capital of the Kingdom, in 1966 terial and eventually discovered the poten- texture density and surface evenness. led to an historic discovery. When the pagoda tial of mulberry trees, which were abundant was dismantled, a sarira casket bearing many throughout the country. They devised an in- precious artifacts was uncovered. Among genious method to make paper from the soft the items was a paper scroll printed with the inner skin fibers of young mulberry trees, Pure Light Dharani Sutra, recognized as the which can last more than a thousand years world’s oldest extant printed material. Con- without withering away. sidering the scroll had laid in complete dark- ness within a stone pagoda for 12 centuries, The traditional Korean mulberry paper is a it was in an incredibly good condition. The product of nature in every respect. The hanji paper made the miracle possible. is made from the pure fibers of trees growing naturally in the mountains and fields, with- Paper Wholly Made in Nature out adding any artificial ingredients that are 2. The Pure Light Dharani Paper was traditionally made from a variety harmful to the human body. Its muted whitish Sutra printed on mulberry of materials, including tree bark, cotton and color comes from nature; it is produced by paper with woodblocks. This is the oldest extant printed hemp. The paper made of hemp fiber was sunlight, water, winds, fire, and time, without material in the world.

1 2 Intangible Heritage 16 | 17

Stalks from the trees are steamed in a large which is necessary for the solution to filter kettle and the bark is peeled off. The bark is properly, evenly distributing the fibers all soaked in water, preferably in a cool stream, over the screen. The screen is either suspend- to be softened and impurities are removed. ed by ropes hanging from the ceiling, or held Then the fibers of the inner white skin are between two identical frames. The sheets of separated from the outer skin. The inner skin, damp fibers are laid one on top of the other or bast, is boiled in water mixed with lye to on a wooden board. Moisture is drained by increase the brightness and strength of fibers. pressing them with a lever over a night. It is rinsed slowly in running water to get rid In the past, the damp fiber sheets were spread 3. of lye completely. Any remaining impurities are then picked out by hand. The clean bast is on a mud wall or a wooden board to be dried 3.Mulberry paper is dyed undergoing any man-made distortions. Ev- beaten in an oak wood mortar to separate and and bleached in the sun, but heated stain- 10 with natural dyes such as erything about hanji comes from nature and soften the fibers, which are then put in a large less steel plates are more often used these gardenia seeds (yellow) and down by Koreans since ancient times. In 10. Mulberry paper was indigo (blue). ultimately returns to nature. vat of cool water and stirred vigorously with days. Finally, the dried sheets go through the widely used on doors and view of the dominance of Western paper and a bamboo pole. When the fibers have been smoothing process, rarely seen in papermak- windows in the old days. changing housing environment today, efforts Laborious Production Procedures sufficiently dissolved, glue-like sap from ing traditions in other countries. A few doz- are needed to explore ways to properly pre- In the old days, Korean mulberry paper was sunset hibiscus roots is added to the solution, ens of sheets are placed one upon the other serve the nation’s traditional papermaking also called baekji, meaning “paper requiring and the liquid is thoroughly stirred again. on a fulling block and beaten repeatedly. technology and actively utilize the paper so a hundred jobs to make,” an apt description This helps improve the surface finish by in- that this outstanding tradition can continue considering its demanding production pro- Next is the laborious task of dipping a fine creasing texture density and evenness. the next thousand years and beyond. cess. Papermaking traditionally begins when bamboo screen in the suspension of mulber- harvests have been completed. Between No- ry fibers, sunset hibiscus glue and water. The Outstanding Durability and Other Prop- 4.Mulberry stalks are steamed. vember and February, mulberry trees that are screen is rhythmically moved to and fro, so erties

5. The inner skin is boiled one year old are sought because they provide that the liquid filters through to leave a thin As an old saying goes, fine paper lasts a in water mixed with lye, soft and tender fibers that are the best mate- layer of fibers upon it. Great skill and experi thousand years, while silk can last only five cleansed thoroughly, 11. Lanterns made of and then beaten with a rial for paper. ence is needed to maintain a regular rhythm, hundred years. Traditional Korean mulberry mulberry paper. wooden stick. paper, recognized for its durability, was used 6. Softened fibers from on doors and windows as it also has remark- the inner skin of mulberry stalks are put in a large able effects of natural ventilation and light- vat of cool water and ing and humidity control. Coated with veg- stirred with a bamboo pole. etable oil, the paper is still widely used to

7. A bamboo screen is cover the heated ondol floors as air can pass moved rhythmically to through it while water cannot. Traditional 11 and fro in a mixture of mulberry fibers, sunset 4 5 6 mulberry paper is a popular material for art- 12.Models exhibit dresses hibiscus glue and water, ists as well. Due to its soft and durable prop- made of mulberry paper. so the fibers can form a thin even sheet on the erties creating unique effects when woven or screen. crumbled, it is used in varied genres ranging 8. Damp fiber sheets are from painting and calligraphy to handicrafts spread on a wooden board to be dried and bleached in and sculpture. the sun. 9. The dried sheets of Traditional mulberry paper represents the mulberry paper are beaten repeatedly to increase simple and natural Korean aesthetics as well texture density and surface 7 8 9 12 evenness. as scientific knowledge and wisdom handed Natural Heritage 18 | 19

Jindo Dogs and Sapsaree Korean Breeds of ‘Man’s Best Friends’

Text by Shin Nam-sik | Professor at the Department of Veterinary Medicine, Seoul National University Photos by Topic Photoagency & Yeonhap News

Dogs, among all animals, have the longest dogs to be desirable companions as they 1. A Jindo dog, which is Natural Monument No. 53. history of relationship with human beings. were capable of sophisticated forms of so- They have been regarded as not only loyal cial cognition and communication. Dogs companions but as sources of food and trans- also performed many useful roles for peo- portation means as well as providers of la- ple, such as hunting, herding, carrying load, bor, and sometimes even objects of religious and warning possible harms from foes. It is worship. also believed that the wolf descendants, as competitors of humans in the food chain, ap- Beginning of Interactions proached Paleolithic campsites to scavenge Dogs are known to have been domesticated refuse, and the interaction between humans from wolves approximately 12,000 years and dogs developed into a cooperative rela- ago. The early human beings found the wild tionship in hunting.

The Jindo Dogs from Jin Island 2. An old photo shows men with a dog. Koreans have traditionally loved to keep dogs and take pride in having outstanding native breeds as adorable companions. Of all the dog breeds in Korea, the Jindo dog is surely the most endeared kind for its loy- alty and brave nature as well as handsome appearance. This native breed, designated as Natural Monument No. 53 in 1938, origi- nates from Jindo, or Jin Island, off the south- west cost of Korea. Many believe that ances- tors of the Jindo dog were grown around the country but after Jindo was separated from the peninsula, those on the island have main- 1 2 tained their purebred lineage. Natural Heritage 20 | 21

the United Kennel Club and the International large head and a blunt muzzle. Sapsaree are in companion animals and development of Cynological Federation in 2005. Jindo Coun- typically bold and brave, and are loyal to related commodities markets and industries. ty is undertaking a range of projects to set up their master. The Sapsaree Preservation As- Companion animals help improve the qual- a system to unify the genealogy of purebred sociation, formed in 1992 at the time the dog ity of human life by taking on increasingly Jindo dogs and enhance their global reputa- was named a Natural Monument, has con- diverse roles in contemporary society. I hope tion as part of a government-supported re- ducted systematic research on its pedigree. that Jindo and Sapsaree, which are our indig- gional culture promotion program. Particularly, its mitochondrial DNA study on enous dog breeds, will have wider opportu- Sapsaree has no precedent in the history of nities to interact with humans so their value Sapsaree, the Cute Pets from Gyeongsan cynological research worldwide. as companion animals will further increase. The Sapsaree are popular household dogs Hence, I hope, our age-old relationship with native to Gyeongsan and the nearby south- Jindo and Sapsaree as Companion Ani- these dogs will last long on the basis of our 3. A young white Jindo 3 east region of Korea. The cute shaggy dog, mals greater respect for the benefits they give us dog. believed to have the power to expel evil spir- The companionship of a dog can enhance hu- humans. Males of this native dog breed are 50-55 cen- its and bad luck, appears in many folk tales, man health psychologically and physically, 5. A dog guides a blind timeters tall, and females are 45-50 centime- songs and paintings. No less endeared than and affirmatively influence emotional devel- man. ters tall. With shrewd eyes and a well-devel- the Jindo dog for its loyalty and congenial opment as well. Dogs contribute to the qual- oped jaw, the head has an octagonal shape nature, the Sapsaree were decimated in the ity of human life by performing many roles. when seen from the front. The coat comes in early 1940s, when the Japanese colonialists Rescue dogs trained to search for missing a few different colors from off-white to tan, killed them to meet wartime demand for ani- persons in disaster and quarantine inspection with the nose in black or pink. The Jindo dogs mal skins. Once the common domestic dog dogs that detect illegal agricultural imports are active and intelligent, and have keen ears around southeast Korea, Sapsaree faced ex- and foods are good examples. Research in and nose. They make excellent household tinction. dogs’ ability to detect symptoms of epileptic dogs, becoming very loyal friends to their seizures by smelling a patient or to discover owner. In 1993, a native Jindo dog, named However, in 1969, a group of professors at cancer patients at an early stage is presently Baekgu, meaning “White Dog,” made head- Kyungpook National University set their underway, with some dogs already engaged lines by returning to its old master by itself, goal at reviving the dying breed. They gath- in pilot activities. Since 1999, the Sapsaree haggard and exhausted, seven months after ered together some 30 Sapsaree dogs and Preservation Association has been offering it was sold to a new owner in an inland city, began studying their pedigree. In 1985, animal-assisted therapies to people suffering Daejeon, some 300 kilometers away. Professor Ha Ji-hong imbued the endeavor from mental and physical illnesses through 4. Sapsaree dogs that are with new energy by launching a systematic Sapsaree dogs. designated Natural Monu- ment No. 368. The Jindo dog was officially registered with program for genealogical research and ac- tive reproduction. As a result, Sapsaree have Today we are witnessing a growing interest 5 remarkably grown in number, drawing at- 6. A rescue dog searches tention from an increasing number of people for survivors amid the around the country. The breed was named debris in tsunami-hit Fukushima, northeastern Natural Monument No. 368 in 1992. A Sap- Japan. saree family has become a popular guardian icon of Dokdo Island. 7. A detection dog sniffs baggage at an airport. Sapsaree males are 51 centimeters tall and females are 49 centimeters tall on average. The adult dogs have long and abundant coats,

4 their hair falling over the eyes. They have a 6 7 Special Report 22 | 23

Warning Cup Teaches Modesty Text by Son Seong-geun | Researcher at the Gwacheon National Science Museum Photos by Goodimage & Greaphickorea

Some ancient ceramic cups were designed to Learning in the late Joseon Dynasty, made a 1. gyeyeongbae. teach humans a moral lesson to be vigilant cup that emptied itself when it was filled to of greed and complacency. The cups, called the brim. The potter U Myeong-ok, who lived gyeyeongbae, literally “fullness warning during a similar period, is also said to have cups,” empty themselves when they are sev- made a “cup warning fullness,” according en-tenths filled. It is not a magical feat but a to legend handed down around Hongcheon, scientific function of siphoning, or drawing Gangwon Province. off liquid by using gravity and atmospheric pressure. Legend about the Mysterious Cup U Myeong-ok was a talented potter whose The enigmatic cups called gyeyeongbae dream of producing vessels excellent enough originated from ancient Chinese ritual ves- for the royal palace came true. He was ap- sels used to pray to heavens so humans pointed to the royal kiln in Gwangju and there would guard themselves against complacen- he produced beautiful tableware to be used cy. According to ancient records, Confucius in the royal household. The king admired the visited the ancestral temple of Duke Huan of vessels and spared no praise, granting gener- Qi, where he saw a “vessel that inclined to ous rewards for the potter. Feeling elated by one side,” which the duke had kept by his side, calling it you zuo zhi qi (warning ves- 2. A ceramic cup named gyeyeongbae is designed to sel that sits on the right). As he had heard, empty itself when it is more Confucius saw how the vessel was inclined than seven-tenths filled. It is said to be intended to teach when empty, upright when half full, and a moral lesson to be vigilant overturned when completely full, and asked, of greed and complacency. “How indeed could there be complete full- ness and no overturning?” He subsequently also kept such a cup by his side to remind himself of the lesson.

The earliest known record about similar ves- sels in Korea says that Ha Baek-won (1781- 1 1845), a scientist of the school of Practical 2 Special Report 24 | 25

3. Cups designed to teach tube is reduced and more liquid is pulled up should not indulge in binge drinking. The modesty that are exhibited at the National Science to flow up and over the tube until the cup is philosophy contained in these cups is more Museum. completely empty. profound; they teach the beauty of self-con- trol and restraint – how to be content with In short, the liquid in the cup continues to seven-tenths, not more, of the level of one’s be pulled into the invisible tube through the aspiration, or with lacking than repletion. small hole on the bottom due to the differ- ence in air pressure between the interior of the cup and the tube.

This is the theory of siphoning: a liquid in a vessel is made to flow out without inclin- 3 ing the vessel. Hence the theory is often ap- his success, U became increasingly arrogant up the cup and examined it, looking here and plied to devices for transferring liquids that and indulged in debauchery, squandering all there for a while, and said, “This is a wine are dangerous or difficult to move around by 5. gyeyeongbae. his money and reputation. Awaiting death in cup. If the wine in it disappears by itself, taking advantage of gravity and difference in misery and painful repentance, he decided to how can you drink it?” Then, U filled the cup atmospheric pressure. Air or water pressure study hard to make the greatest masterpiece just halfway, saying, “Look, Sir!” The cup from a certain amount of liquid increases of his lifetime. remained half filled. “As you see, Sir, the in reverse proportion to the cross-sectional wine remains where it is when the cup is not area. The pressure rises when a large amount The next day U confined himself to solitary full.” Then he named the cup gyeyeongbae. of substance passes through a smaller space. prayer, jettisoning all mundane affairs for An inverted U-shaped tube can cause a liquid more than a hundred days. Upon finishing Later, this cup came to be owned by a to flow uphill above its surface level without his prayers, he worked in his room and on the wealthy merchant named Im Sang-ok (1779- a pump as gravity pulls the liquid down the last day of the year he presented a small wine 1855). He is said to have kept the cup close tube, where it is discharged at a lower level. cup to his teacher. As his teacher looked on, to himself all the time to fend off against ex- U filled the cup with wine to the rim. Then, cessive ambition. One day he broke the cup Philosophy in a Drinking Cup gradually, the wine drained out of the cup, by accident and strangely, U Myeong-ok also The theory of siphoning clearly explains the leaving not a single drop. The teacher held died on the same day. People said the cup secret hidden in the ancient ceramic wine contained his spirit. cups. But science is not all there is about 4. gyeyeongbae. the mysterious vessels. They are not merely 5 Scientific Structure intended to teach the simple lesson that one The gyeyeongbae has a small hole on the base and its interior has a round column 6. A diagram of the theory of siphoning: The liquid in in the center, with another hole at the bot- A can be moved to B by us- tom. The secret of the cup is hidden in the ing gravity and differences in atmospheric pressure. round column. A cross-section of the cup shows that the column contains an inverted U-shaped tube. When the cup is filled even with the top of this tube, the liquor remains in the cup, but when more liquid is poured in, the excess flows up and over the top of the 4 tube. At this time, the air pressure inside the 6 Photo Gallery 26 | 27

A Lesser Known Center of Culture Iksan Another Capital of Baekje

Editor’s Note: Photo Gallery carries a four-part series introducing Korea’s four ancient capitals – Gyeongju, Buyeo, Iksan and Gongju – which are all designated under the “Special Act on the Preservation of Ancient Cities.” This is the third part.

Text by the Cultural Heritage Administration Photos by Graphickorea & Simong Photo Agency

Iksan, a small provincial city in North Jeolla Province, is said to have been the center of politics and culture of the Baekje Kingdom (18 B.C.-A.D. 660) during its last years. Iksan is relatively less known than Baekje’s other capitals – Hanseong (a southeastern part of present-day Seoul), Gongju (ancient name Ungjin) and Buyeo (Sabi). In recent years, however, increasing attention has been drawn to Iksan since numerous valuable artifacts were discovered during the dismantling and reassembling of a famous stone pagoda on the ruins of Mireuksa, a Buddhist temple of legendary grandeur, presum- ably established by King Mu of Baekje.

A stone pagoda on the ruins of Mireuksa temple. Photo Gallery 28 | 29

Flag pole supports on the Mireuksa temple site, which are designated Treasure No. 236.

A stone pagoda on the ruins of Mireuksa temple is the oldest extant stone pagoda in Korea. It is National Treasure No. 11. A natural foundation stone on the Mireuksa temple site. Photo Gallery 30 | 31

A stone monument relates the love story of King Mu and Princess Seonhwa.

King Mu is assumed to have erected a royal palace and a state temple of magnificent scales, among other essential facilities, around today’s Iksan in preparation to move the capital from Buyeo. His aspirations for a stronger monar- chy are exemplified in an array of monuments and relics. They include a stone pagoda on the site of Mireuksa, the oldest extant stone pagoda in Korea (National Treasure No. 11); a five-story stone pagoda at Wanggung-ri (Na- tional Treasure No. 289); a gold plate engraved with The Diamond Sutra and a sarira reliquary (National Treasure No. 123); flag pole supports of a temple; a colossal statue of seated Buddha from Yeondong-ri; and a tumuli group at Ipjeom-ri.

One of the twin burial mounds known to be the tombs of King Mu and his wife, Princess Seonhwa of Silla. The two mounds are some 150 meters apart from north to south. Photo Gallery 32 | 33

A stone Buddha at Godo-ri, which is Treasure No. 46.

A five-story stone pagoda at Wanggung-ri is National Treasure No. 289. Foreigner’s View 34 | 35

the same problem. Chinese characters and the syntax of written Chinese are no longer part of Korean normal education. Hence there are many misunderstandings, or “re- interpretations,” apart from a general lack of understanding of original intentions and connotations.

As an example for the beauty hidden below the surface I want to make a few introductory remarks about a country scholar’s garden, called Soswaewon, in Damyang County, South Jeolla Province. Won stands for “gar- den” and for soswae the dictionary gives “light-hearted, lifted above the sordid bustle of life, unconventional.” The founder, Yang San-bo (1503-1557), gave himself the name Soswae-ong “Old Man Soswae,” thereby hinting that he had somehow accepted his life of forced exile after his teacher had been executed for political reasons. He, like all other followers, was also endangered.

In those days, a very lively and colorful sub- 1 culture of “country scholars” in forced or voluntary exile lived away from the politi- Korean mindset. The result is that quite often cal arena in the capital. These well-educated names and concepts in Korean culture 2. A single wood bridge spans a brook at the Soswaewon: Searching for the Hidden are seemingly a simple copy from China, but entrance of Soswaewon garden. a closer look at the way how these were giv- Beauty in Korean Traditional Culture en significance and value in Korea reveals differences in connotation. For the foreigner, Text by Werner Sasse | Painter and Koreanist this means he must study and compare both Photos by Simong Agency & Goodimage cultures or must have a friend who is doing so. 1. A stone-and-mud wall at For foreigners trying to grasp the beauty of ness. There is no other way but to carefully the entrance to Soswae- won has a sign meaning traditional Korean culture, it is very hard to study this constant dialogue between the two Regrettably, most books on Korean culture it is “a humble nest of Old get beyond the surface to the core. One has to cultures, which lasted roughly 2,000 years. in foreign languages fall short of offering Man Soswae.” understand the influence from Chinese cul- help because they usually focus on a few su- ture and how the Korean people adopted it to The educated class in Korea always looked to perficial facts rather than analysis and inter- their own culture with its different language China for inspiration, but the scholars under- pretation. A vast majority of Korean people and its historical and environmental unique- stood what they saw with their non-Chinese except for the old generations actually have 2 Foreigner’s View 36 | 37

The garden was and still is a family undertak- five meters deep, and two further sections of ing, which took several generations to build. the garden beyond. They are on different lev- When Old Man Soswae died, he determined els and both are adorned with a tile-roofed in his last will: “… Never sell this garden to pavilion, each having a large open wooden any outsider, and also do not give it to any floor area and one small floor-heated room. descendant who is stupid, or make it any sin- In the middle section stands the “Pavilion of gle person’s possession…” After his death Light and Wind,” and in the back section fur- two of his sons finished the construction, but ther up the hill the “Hall of Clear Moon.” shortly after their death all buildings were burned down in 1597 during the Hideyoshi With some knowledge of literary connota- Invasion. In 1614, a grandchild started re- tions, one can already come close to the hid-

3 pairing the garden and one boy among his den meanings, because “light and wind” is fifth-generation descendants finished the re- more adequately translated as “light breeze 5 gentlemen were landowners rich enough to construction. Following the progenitor’s last in the sun after rain,” while “clear moon” live a life somewhere between a serious phi- will, the man who is in charge today is also a must be understood as “invigorating moon every tree or flower is there for natural beau- losopher and social critic, and bohemian in- family member. He is living in a small house after the rain has cleared.” And actually the ty but also carries a deeper meaning. The real dulging in poetry, music, and painting. One across the path leading from the garden into four Chinese characters form a phrase, which beauty of this garden therefore does not lie in 3. A thatched-roof shed of the important centers of this culture was in the mountain, which protects the garden according to the dictionary means “the light the way nature has been configured into an named Daebongdae, or the from the cold coming from the north. 5.6. Pavilion of Light and “Terrace for Awaiting the and around Damyang, where these scholars breeze and clear moon of a man’s clear vir- aesthetic landscape but rather in how litera- Wind (Gwangpunggak, Phoenix.” The phoenix sym- invented gasa, a special form of long nar- tue; pure and high personality.” It is evident ture and garden architecture were melded to above) and the Hall of bolizes a precious guest. rative poetry to be sung, and left many pa- When you enter the garden you pass by that the names of the pavilions form a sort create a double-layered structure. Clear Moon (Jewoldang, the pavilion where the scholar would have below) stand for the “light vilions in beautiful surroundings, which still of motto or guiding principle the founder breeze in the sun and clear invite visitors to relax. greeted his guests, a rather small thatched- imposed on himself. Beautiful and poetic as Soswaewon is only one example. Here and moon of a man’s virtue,” roof shed but with a signboard reading “Ter- the moral axiom of Yang this is, the core meaning lies even deeper. everywhere in treasured relics of Korean San-bo, the founder of the race for Awaiting the Phoenix.” The Chinese cultural history, seeing below the surface re- garden. characters and the location bring to mind that The phrase “light and wind, clear moon” has quires a search for hidden structures bearing one of many symbolic meanings of the phoe- its origin in the “Biography of Zhou Dunyi” names and phrases in Chinese characters. nix is “a distinguished and esteemed guest.” in the Song Shu (The Book of Song), the of- Thus you can appreciate why this pavilion ficial history of the Chinese Song Dynasty. is such a humble structure – as humble as a There the character of Zhou Dunyi, in Ko- gentleman greeting his guests. But the phoe- rean pronunciation Ju Don-yi, is described in nix symbolism also influences the structure this phrase. The teachings of Zhou Dunyi, a of the garden, namely the plants which have philosopher in the 11th century, were just as been planted in the immediate surrounding important as those of Zhu Xi a century later. area, a paulownia tree shading the pavilion Their teachings formed the basis of Song and a bamboo hedge nearby. Only when one Confucianism (“Neo-Confucianism”), which learns that the mythical bird is said to love also dominated the intellectual climate dur- the paulownia tree and feed on bamboo can ing the Joseon Dynasty in Korea. one realize how much literature has guided the construction of the garden. On a map of the garden carved on a wood- block by an unknown author in 1755, many 4. A waterfall empties into a brook flowing Sitting in this pavilion overlooking the gar- more literary and philosophical allusions can 4 6 through the garden. den, one sees the brook with a waterfall about be found. Practically every spot, every rock, Overseas Korean Cultural Assets 38 | 39

library and archives, Gyujanggak, opened 3. A bibliographical list of Oegyujanggak, a branch of on Ganghwa Island. It was named Oegyu- the royal library, Gyujang- janggak, meaning “Outer Gyujanggak,” gak, which was compiled in 1857. indicating its role as storage for books and other documents from the royal library in the capital, which needed to be permanently preserved. Ganghwa Island was consid- ered a safe place from foreign intruders and relatively close to the capital. Some 1,000 volumes of books, including the royal pro- tocols, handwritings and paintings by kings and other important heirlooms in the royal 3 household were moved there.

The uigwe documented in detail the entire more of the king’s versions than any state procedures of major state ceremonies and 2 archives and not a few of them are now the events. They contain all concerned official sole extant copy, making their historical and documents, a list of people who were in- academic value immense. volved, the dimensions and materials of all 1 items produced or used, and all expenditures, Homecoming after a Long Sojourn Abroad including wages paid to individual workers. In 1866, a flotilla of seven French warships The texts are accompanied by painted illus- commanded by Admiral Pierre-Gustave trations of important scenes, such as proces- Roze invaded Korean waters and a detach- Joseon Royal Books Return Home sions and seating arrangements of participat- ment seized the administrative center of ing figures based on rank, as well as ritual Ganghwa Island. Its troops pillaged the royal after 145 Years in France objects. Five to nine versions of these ex- archives and set it ablaze. The whereabouts tremely precise documents were produced. of hundreds of books they took away at this One went to the king and the rest were scat- Text & Photos by the Cultural Heritage Administration time remained unknown for over a century tered around the country for preservation at until a Korean bibliographer discovered government offices and state archives. The them. Dr. Park Byeong-seon, who was work- king’s version was far more elaborate and ing as a librarian at the National Library of luxurious; it was made with high-quality France, found the Joseon royal books, dam- paper and paint, and bounded in silk covers aged and classified as Chinese, in the stor- 1. The Royal Protocol on the The Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) produced queathed to future generations to be used to with bronze clamps. Oegyujanggak housed Conferment of Honor for detailed records of major state and royal conduct similar events and activities. A total Queen Jangnyeol (Jangnyeol 4.5. Inner pages of Joseon wanghu jonsung dogam events throughout its five-century rule. Pal- of 297 volumes of these royal protocols have royal protocols that have uigwe) documents the rites ace officials documented the investiture cer- recently returned home 145 years after they returned from France. for conferring an honorable title on Queen Jangnyeol, emonies of crown princes, royal weddings, were taken away by French sailors from the the second wife of King Injo, rites for conferring posthumous titles on de- state archives on Ganghwa Island during the held in 1686, the 12th year of King Sukjong’s reign. ceased kings, and construction and repair of waning years of the dynasty. important palace structures or military for- 2. A number tag used on tresses. These highly elaborate texts, called Royal Protocols from State Archives a volume of Joseon royal uigwe, literally “exemplary standards for In the second month of 1782, during the protocol at the National 4 5 Library of France. ceremonies,” were official references be- reign of King Jeongjo, a branch of the royal Overseas Korean Cultural Assets 40 | 41

age of the Versailles annex of the library in the Relocation of Hwigyeongwon (Hwigyeo- 8. The royal books are welcomed in a colorful 1978. Earlier, in 1967 at the same library, ngwon wonso dogam uigwe), one of the Jo- ceremony, held on the she discovered another important book: the seon royal protocols taken away to France in grounds of Gyeongbok Palace. second volume of Master Baegun’s Excerpts 1866. Mitterand made a promise to return the from the Buddha and Patriarch’s Teachings remainder. on Direct Pointing to the Essence of Mind (Baegun hwasang chorok buljo jikji simche The promise was not fulfilled, however. yojeol, also known as Jikji simche yojeol, or Negotiations between the two governments Jikji) published in 1377 during the Goryeo faltered repeatedly. At another bilateral sum- Dynasty. It is recognized as the world’s earli- mit in 2000, the two governments agreed on est known book printed with movable metal the return of 63 volumes, which had no par- type. allel handwritten copies in Korea, by 2001 under the condition that other cultural assets These discoveries led to Park’s dismissal of equivalent value be exchanged. France 8 from the French library in 1980. But she con- again showed a lukewarm attitude in honor- tinued her research, visiting the library every ing the agreement, while public opinion in sion, have returned home, though on lease. epitome of Korean record-keeping culture, day, asking for approval to study the books Korea opposed the French demand for trade- They include 289 volumes of royal proto- they provide a vivid glimpse of the economy, as an ordinary visitor. After painstaking ef- off. Academic and civic organizations cam- cols produced exclusively for the king, five social norms, construction and public works, forts over a decade, she succeeded in mak- paigned for the unconditional return of all volumes for dispersed preservation at state as well as the lifestyle and culture in the royal ing a full list and bibliographical notes on the books. Some even insisted on bringing the archives, two volumes recording results of court. These great historical sources are cer- 298 volumes of Joseon royal protocols at the case to the International Court of Justice. regular inspections on the state of preser- tainly worth the tremendous efforts exerted library and translating their titles. vation of the protocols, and one volume of over the decades by the Korean government A breakthrough came with the G20 Seoul chronological drafts for compilation of pro- and various concerned organizations for their Seoul National University initiated efforts Summit on November 12, 2010, in which tocols. The Kyujanggak Institute for Korean return. Numerous Korean cultural assets are to retrieve the Joseon royal books from the the presidents of the two countries agreed Studies at Seoul National University, which known to be scattered around the world. French library in 1991. Thereafter, in 1992, on the return of all 297 volumes on condi- is in charge of maintenance of materials from Any effort to recover the lost cultural relics the Korean government forwarded an offi- tion of a five-year renewable lease. At last, the royal library of the Joseon Dynasty, has should begin with attaining correct informa- cial request to the French government for the the books were flown home in four batches, 148 volumes of royal protocols for the king’s tion of their whereabouts and how they made 6. 7. The repatriated royal return of the books. During a Korea-French beginning with the first set of 75 volumes perusal. their way out of the country. books are loaded on a spe- cial vibration-proof vehicle summit in 1993, when France lobbied for which arrived on April 14, 2011. Thus the at International the export of its TGV high-speed train tech- 297 volumes of 191 royal protocols, from Among the repatriated royal protocols are 9. A picture book pub- Airport to be transported nology to Korea, French President Francois among the 340 volumes known to have been records of a banquet thrown by King Injo in lished for the commemo- to the National Museum ration of the return of the of Korea. Mitterand returned The Royal Protocol on carried away during the 1866 French inva- 1630 for the dowager grandmother; a repair Joseon royal books. on Jongmyo, the royal ancestral shrine, in 1637; the investiture ceremony of Jeongjo as 7 the grand heir in 1759; the wedding rites of King Injo and Queen Jangnyeol in 1638; and the ceremony for conferring an honorable title on Queen Inwon, held in 1751.

Return of Lost Cultural Relics The royal protocols of the Joseon Dynasty were produced with the best materials and 6 7 skills available in all fields in each era. An 9 Modern Heritage 42 | 43

King Gojong Loved Coffee 1. Jeonggwanheon (Pavilion for Tranquil Contemplation) It is believed that coffee was first brought in Deoksu Palace. It is Reg- into Korea sometime around 1890. In his istered Cultural Heritage No. 82. Observations on a Journey to the West (Seoyu gyeonmun), the first Korean book to introduce the West, Yu Gil-jun wrote that coffee was introduced to Korea via China. It is well known that King Gojong enjoyed drinking coffee. He was fascinat- ed by the taste of coffee when he first had it at the Russian Legation, where he took refuge in 1896 for fear of his safety after Japanese assassins killed his wife, Queen Min. Upon his return to Deoksu Palace, Gojong built a Western eclectic-style building on the palace grounds and named it Jeonggwanheon, meaning the “Pavilion for Tranquil Contemplation,” where he enjoyed coffee while listening to Western music and threw parties. The pavilion has a unique appearance combining Western and Korean traditional architectural styles. It was named Registered Cultural Heritage No. 82 in 2004.

The handful of Western-style hotels in Ko- rea at the time also began serving coffee, notably the Daibutsu Hotel, built in In cheon around 1884 by the Japanese Hori Rikitaro; and Sontag Hotel, built in Seoul 1 in 1902 by Antoinette Sontag, the Ger- man sister-in-law of Karl Weber, the first

2. King Gojong of the Joseon Dynasty, who pro- Coffee Aficionados of 100 Years Ago Coffee has fascinated Koreans since it was claimed the and named himself Emperor – A Landscape in Modern Korea introduced to the country at the turn of the Gwangmu in 1897. 20th century. Coffee symbolized a lot more than its exotic aroma and taste to Koreans Text by Chang Yu-jeong | Professor of the Faculty of Liberal Arts, Dankook University in the early days of enlightenment. Intel- Photos by Greaphickorea & Topic photo Agency lectuals gathered at tearooms that served this fantastic beverage to share their new knowledge as well as their pain and de- spair over lost sovereignty. 2 Modern Heritage 44 | 45

as they are known to modern Koreans first 5. A coffee shop was a favorite hangout as well as appeared around the turn of the 20th cen- a cultural space of Koreans. tury, when the nation was first exposed

to Western culture. These early commer- 6 A coffee shop in the cial establishments serving coffee, called 1970s, where a DJ played requested songs. by various names such as chatjip, dajeom and kkikdajeom besides the original Eng- 3. Sontag Hotel, built in 1902 in Jeong-dong, near lish name tearoom, first emerged in down- Deoksu Palace, where town district of Jongno, Chungmuro and coffee was served. 3 Myeong-dong, where many Japanese were 5 6 Russian minister to Joseon. Sontag built engaged in their activities. “Futami” at the hotel on the site of her house, which Chungmuro 3-ga and “Geumgangsan” at of pure literature against proletarian litera- online entertainment activities. The exotic was presented by Gojong. Soon after an Chungmuro 2-ga were the most well known ture that appealed to many elite young men aroma of coffee as a fond companion on a upscale restaurant named Cheongmok- among tearooms in these districts. The first under colonial occupation. At a time when romantic autumn evening should be a nos- dang (Green Tree House) opened in Seoul; tearoom run by a Korean was “Kakadyu,” most individuals could not afford a pri- talgic recollection that belongs to the older it had a bar serving Western liquors on the which opened in 1927 in Gwanhun-dong. vate study, the tearoom was a useful venue generations. first floor, and a restaurant serving West- where literary people met to debate or plan ern-style dishes and beverages on the sec- Probably responding to the interest in cof- their works. ond floor. The place soon became a famous fee among its readers, the October 27 edi- site. tion of the Dong-a Ilbo that year had an Popularization of Coffee, Evolution of article with the headline “How to make Tearooms Distribution of Coffee, Emergence of coffee – The amount of coffee and usage In the 1950 and the 60s, after liberation, Tearooms of vessels and milk.” But it was during the tearooms maintained their role as urban 4. An article about coffee Although the word dabang, meaning “- 1930s that tearooms came to play the roles cultural spaces and favorite hangouts of brewing method on the as known to Koreans today. writers and artists. As instant coffee be- October 27, 1927 edition of room,” has a long history dating to the The Dong-a Ilbo. Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392), the tearooms came widespread after the , 7.The advent of Hangouts of Intellectuals and Artists tearooms mushroomed across the coun- in 1999 signaled a sweep- ing change to the coffee In the 1930s, tearooms were havens for try but their primary clientele changed to house culture in Korea. writers, artists and university students. seniors meeting their cohorts to kill time. They were also places where “intellectuals The ambience of tearooms thus suited gave vent to their despair and frustration small rural towns rather than trendy urban over their inability, lack of will, lack of vi- streets. sion, weariness, material poverty, and di- lemma.” For example, “Mexico,” the only The advent of Starbucks in 1999 signaled tearoom in Jongno, was a popular hangout a sweeping change to the coffee house cul- of cultural figures like writers, musicians, ture in Korea. Indeed, the change has been actors and journalists. “Nangnang Para” in rather revolutionary. As the ubiquitous Sogong-dong was a salon-cum-workroom mammoth chains are fast expanding their of writers, particularly those who had stud- business, coffee shops are no longer the ied abroad, such as Jeong Ji-yong and Kim rather leisurely socializing venues of intel- Gwang-seop. It also served as the base for lectuals and artists; they have turned into a Nine Men’s Society (Guinhoe), a literary new type of “private spaces,” where indi- 4 group that contributed to the development viduals work on their computers or enjoy 7 Quarterly Magazine of the Cultural Heritage Administration

Cultural Heritage Administration, 189 Cheongsa-ro, Seo-gu, Daejeon, Republic of Korea Tel | 82-42-481-4739 Fax | 82-42-481-4759 http://english.cha.go.kr

Published | September 1, 2011

Published by | Cultural Heritage Administration Republic of Korea

Publication | Yi Kyung-hoon management Director of International Affairs Division Content | Yeo Sung-hee, Park Jung-eun, Kim Min-ok coordination Translation | Lee Kyong-hee

Proofreading | Ted Chan

Design ∙ Editing | Graphic Korea Co., Ltd Printed by | Graphic Korea Co., Ltd

Cultural Heritage Administration, 2011

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