Seoul Tour Guidebook Recommended Tour Courses in Seoul Seoul Tour Guidebook Recommended Tour Courses in Seoul Seoul Tour Guidebook Recommended Tour Courses in Seoul

Contents

04 Walking the K-Star Road

07 Scent of Spring in Seongbuk-dong

11 The History Bus

15 The Real Gangnam Style

18 Reality Walks

22 River of Light

25 Seoul's Autumn Colors

29 Nighttime stroll around Sinsa-dong

32 HongdaeStylin’ It Up

37 Sangam-dong: Heart of the Korean Wave 2015 Seoul Tour

Walking the K-Star Road

A journey through the birthplace of the Korean Wave

Apgujeong Station Apgujeong Rodeo Station

Galleria East Galleria West 7 1 2 1 Everysing 6 FNC Entertainment Gangnam Tour- 3 Cofioca G+Star Zone ist Information 6 2 Center 5 5 10 Corso Como Seoul 4 JYP Entertainment 4 3 Cube Entertainment Spa the el Dosan Park BH Entertainment Cheongdam Ra Beauty Core Intersection

Walking Course Gangnam Tourist Information Center -> Area around Apgujeong Station (including Spa the el and Ra Beauty Core) -> Galleria Department Store -> G+Star Zone -> Everysing -> 10 Corso Como Seoul -> SM Entertainment -> Cube Entertainment -> JYP Entertainment -> BH Entertainment

"What makes Abbey Road in London, Piazza di Spagna in Rome and Central-Mid-Levels escalator in Hong Kong so special? It's the Beatles who crossed the road, Audrey Hepburn who strode the plaza, and the Romance of Chungking Express that hit the stairway. It's our beloved stars and their stories that make the spots shine."

So begins the lovely blue guidebook to Gangnam's newly unveiled K-Star Road, an urban walking course linking the largely Hallyu (Korean Wave)-related sites in the affluent district south of the Hangang River. The dream---to turn Gangnam into a cultural, shopping and culinary hotspot rivaling New York's Soho or Marais in Paris---is still very much a work in progress as the district, made famous by Korean pop sensation Psy, still adjusts to its newfound status as an international tourism destination. But as the guidebook explains, this is a land where stars shine. If star-gazing's your thing, this is the place to be.

4 01 course1 Getting informed

Broadly speaking, the K Star Road links the posh shops and department stores of Sinsa-dong and Apgujeong-dong in the west with the headquarters of Korea's major entertainment companies in Cheongdam-dong to the east. You can stick to the main roads if you like, but to really soak in the charm, you're going to have to explore the side roads and alleys.

A good place to begin your walk is Gangnam Tourist Information Center (http://tour.gangnam.go.kr, T. 3445-0111), located next to the giant Hyundai Department Store. There you can pick up a handy guidebook with a very useful map and descriptions of local sights, shops and eateries, complete with pictures of the stars who frequent them. The center also has a medical tourism consultation center, K-pop experience center and a coffee shop for pre-walk caffeination. The K-pop experience center---complete with a stage, music video backdrops, wardrobe and even a makeup studio---will be of particular interest to fans of Hallyu culture.

If you'd really like to start your day right, make an appointment with the nearby Spa the el (www.spa-the-el.com, T. 02-549-3949, closed Sundays), a luxury beauty and skin care spa owned by TV personality Lee Min-ah and frequented by celebrities such as KBS announcer Lee Ji-ae. A variety of treatments are provided, including a "Color Mirrors" light treatment and massage treatments. Male treatments and couples spa treatments available, too. If you'd further like to "look the part," so to speak, you could also make a reservation at hair salon for the stars Ra Beauty Core (www.rabeauty.com, T. 02-544-0714), frequented by Choi Ji-woo, Lee Dong-gun, Choi Si-won and Daniel Henney. Makeup, skincare and other aesthetic services are available, too. 02 course2 Real Gangnam Style

To the south of the main drag linking Apgujeong Station (Line 3) and Apgujeong Rodeo Station (Bundang Line) is a maze of side streets where you'll find plenty of coffee houses and shops. Continue along the main road, however, and you'll eventually come to the landmark Galleria Department Store (dept.galleria.co.kr), one of Korea's best known monuments to conspicuous consumption. The store consists of a west and east wings: the west wing targets younger shoppers, while the east, with its rich selection of high-end overseas labels, calls to an older, more well-heeled crowd. The facade of the west wing is covered with 4,330 glass discs; when lit up at night, its truly a sight to behold. Hidden in the attached Apgujeong Rodeo Station is the G+Star Zone, a Hallyu star-themed photo zone where you can also donate to help low-income teens.

5 Across the street from Galleria Department Store is 10 Corso Como Seoul (www.10corsocomo.com, T. 547-3010), a designer store/cultural space founded in Milan by publisher Carla Sozzani. Featuring retro-esque design work by American artist Kris Ruhs, it’s a joy to visit and "slow shop," even if you've no interest at all in K-pop. The more artistically minded will want to spend some time in the bookshop, where you'll find plenty of beautiful hardcover books on photography, architecture, fashion and art. The cafe is a good---and très, très chic---place to eat, too. The video for Psy's 2013 hit "Gentleman" was shot here. 03 course3 The Heart of K-pop Country

As you move further eastward, you'll enter the beating heart of the Korean entertainment industry. Just to let you know you've arrived, SM Entertainment papers its headquarters---just a short walk from the Galleria Department Store---with a huge canvas wrapping featuring larger-than-life images of its top artists. This is as grand a K-pop landmark as you'll find in the entire neighborhood.

Further east, in the side streets north of Cheongdam Intersection, you'll find still more entertainment companies, including Cube Entertainment (BEAST, 4MINUTE, G.NA), JYP Entertainment (Wonder Girls, 2PM, miss A), FNC Entertainment (CNBLUE and F.T. Island) and BH Entertainment (founded by actor Lee Byung-hun and representing actors Ko Soo, Han Chae-young, Han Hyo-joo and Bae Soo-bin). Unless you're applying for an audition, there isn't actually that much to do at any of these places, save for Cube Entertainment, which operates Cube Studio, with a coffee parlor and gift shop on the first floor. Still, if you're lucky, you might be able to spot your favorite K-pop or K-drama star at or around one of these places.

Getting There: The Gangnam Tourist Information Center is a short walk from Apgujeong Station 압구정역 (Line 3), Exit 6.

6 2015 Seoul Tour

Scent of Spring in Seongbuk-dong

Lose yourself in the hidden gardens and rich history of a hidden gem

Gilsangsa

Samcheonggak

Suyeon Sanbang Seongbuk Museum of Art

Simujang Gansong Seonjamdan Shrine Bukjeong Museum Village Choi Sunu House Seoul 7 Fortress Wall 6 Trail 5

Walking Course Choi Sunu House->Seonjamdan Shrine->Gansong Museum of Art->Seongbuk Museum of Art->Suyeon Sanbang- >Simujang->Bukjeong Village->Seoul Fortress Wall->Gilsangsa->Samcheonggak

Nestled away in the hills just north of Seoul’s old city wall, the charming Seongbuk-dong neighborhood is one of Seoul’s best kept secrets. With lovely gardens, historic homes and a rich cultural heritage, the district is an oasis of tranquility in the very heart of the city. In May, when the spring blossoms erupt and the hillsides transform in a magical tapestry of color, the neighborhood makes the perfect weekend getaway, a place to unplug and walk amidst the hues, sounds and scents of spring.

7 01 course1 Strolling amidst history

Most visitors begin their exploration of Seongbuk-dong with a visit to the Choi Sunu House, an early 20th century hanok home hidden in an alleyway just off Seongbuk-dong’s main street. Its beautiful gardens of flowering trees, craggy pines and well-placed masonry alone justify the trip. The halls contain a few displays of items once belonging to the former owner of the home, late art historian and National Museum of Korea director Choi Sunu (1916—1984). The house is now operated by the National Trust of Korea, a civic organization dedicated to historical preservation. Entry (10:00—16:00) is free, but the home is closed on Sundays. It is also closed from December to March.

Choi Sunu House Choi Sunu House

On the other side of the main street from the Choi Sunu House is the site of the Seonjamdan, a Joseon Dynasty shrine where annual rites were held in honor of Leizu, the goddess of silkworms and, according to legend, the founder of sericulture. A red, wooden ceremonial gate marks the entrance to shrine site, while a raised stone altar marks the spot where the rites were held. The path leading from the gate to the altar is lined by about 50 fantastically gnarled mulberry trees. A short walk along the main road from the Seonjamdan Shrine site brings you to the entrance of the Gansong Museum of Art, one of the world’s finest repositories of Korean traditional art. Korea’s first private art museum, it was founded in 1938 by art collector Jeon Hyeong-pil, who spent much of his private wealth to prevent foreign art collectors from pillaging Korea’s artistic treasures. The museum usually holds exhibits twice a year, in May and October, but it is currently undergoing a major renovation. Its treasures, meanwhile, are on display at the newly opened Dongdaemun Design Plaza.

Seonjamdan Shrine

8 02 course2 Teahouses, patriots and fortress walls

Continuing along the main road will bring you to the landmark Seongbuk Museum of Art, where on the first floor you’ll also find the Seongbuk Global Village Center. Hidden in a clump of trees next door, however, is the traditional teahouse Suyeon Sanbang. This exquisite turn-of-the-20th-century hanok house was the home of Yi Tae-jun (1904—1970?), one of Korea’s first modern novelists. The house, designed by Yi himself, has been perfectly preserved by his descendants. It you’re lucky, you might get a seat in the house’s elevated wing, with views of the courtyard garden. It can get quite busy on a weekend, but on a quiet weekday, there may be no finer place in the land to enjoy a cup of tea.

Keep heading up the main road, and on the left side you’ll spot a hillside path (with steps) leading to the Simujang, the home of Buddhist monk, poet and independence activist Han Yong-un (1879—1944). Han moved to this secluded spot not long after getting out of Seodaemun Prison, where he did a three year stint for his leading role in the March 1 Independence Movement of 1919. It’s a simple hanok house, but one shaded by a giant gnarled pine at the entrance. Unlike most Korean hanok, which face south, this one was built facing north so that Han would not have to face the hated Japanese Government-General Building, which was located to the south in Gwanghwamun.

Suyeon Sanbang Simujang Simujang

The trail to the Simujang continues up past the house to the crest of the hill, which is topped by Seoul’s old fortress walls. Along the way, the path will take you through Bukjeong Village, a hillside community of humble homes that’s something of a throwback to the Seoul of decades past. One of the empty homes has been transformed into a local art museum currently displaying old photos taken in the community. If you continue to the fortress wall, you’ll meet up with the Seoul Fortress Wall Trail, an 18.7km hiking trail that takes you along the entirety of the old city wall. The section overlooking Seongbuk-dong offers some fantastic views over the neighborhood and is well worth the diversion.

Bukjeong Village Bukjeong Village

03 course3 Hidden gardens on the hillside

On the other side of the valley from Simujang (warning: it’s quite a long walk), on the road to Mt. Bugaksan, is the infinitely pleasant Buddhist temple of Gilsangsa. Gilsangsa’s architecture is atypical for a Buddhist temple, and for good reason: until the 1990s, it was a yojeong, or a high-class restaurant where the rich and powerful ate, drank and were entertained by gisaeng, young women trained in Korean traditional dance and music. In 1987, the owner, herself a former gisaeng, offered the restaurant to the Ven. Beopjeong, one of Korea’s greatest Buddhist monks. Seonjamdan Shrine

9 The place was transformed into a temple, which opened in 1995. The tranquil, wooded site is a great place to relax and lose yourself in the sounds, sights and scents of nature. There’s a public mediation hall open to all, but there’s also an outdoor mediation spot in a wooded spot overlooking a deep valley. The temple offers Templestay programs, too: see the website (www.kilsangsa.info) for more details. From Gilsangsa, head up and east, following the main road along the ridgeline. This will take you through an upscale neighborhood that’s also home to many foreign diplomats. Eventually you’ll reach Samcheonggak, a pleasant cultural space, restaurant and cafe that, like Gilsangsa, was originally a yojeong, built as a venue for secret talks between South and North Korean officials in 1972. As remote a location as you’ll find in downtown Seoul, its home to wonderful gardens and forests, and its terrace cafe offers inspired views of downtown Seoul and surrounding mountains. Now run by the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts, Samcheonggak hosts regular performances of Korean traditional music and dance. Its Korean restaurant is highly regarded, too. As an added bonus, it has free shuttle bus service to downtown Seoul.

Samcheonggak Gilsangsa Temple

Gilsangsa Temple Samcheonggak Fortress Trail

EAT: Seongbuk-dong does not lack for things to eat and drink. As you walk about, you’ll pass plenty of eateries and cafes, some more upscale than others. The neighborhood is particularly known for its donkkasseu (Japanese : tonkatsu), Japanese-style pork cutlets that are breaded and fried. This writer is a fan of Geumwang Donkkaseu (T. 02-763-9366), near Suyeon Sanbang. Another local specialty is the gisa sikdang (“driver restaurants”), which serve generous portions of Korean pork bulgogi and side dishes at very reasonably prices. These places originally targeted solo diners, in particular, taxi drivers. A good one to try is Ssangdari Gisa Sikdang (T. 02 743-0325).

GO: Exit 6 of Hansung University Station (Line 4).

10 2015 Seoul Tour

The History Bus

Hop on Jongno Bus 11 and explore the heart of old Seoul

Samcheong Park Walking Course Samcheong Park--->Samcheong-dong---> Gyeongbokgung Palace and National Folk Museum---> Samcheong-dong Gwanghwamun Gate and the old Yukjo Geori---> Bigak--->Seoul City Hall and Wongudan---> National Folk Museum Namdaemun Market--->Sungnyemun Gate---> Plateau Museum--->Seoul Station Gyeongbokgung Palace The little green Jongno 11 bus is more than just a good 3 Gwanghwamun Gate way to get from Gwanghwamun to Seoul Station. By Gwanghwamun Station an accident of transportation planning, it's a veritable sightseeing bus that you through the very heart of old old YukjoGeori Hanseong, as Seoul was called when it was the royal

5 capital of the Joseon Dynasty. Plenty has changed over the last century, of course, but the coexistence of the old Gwanghwamun Station Bigak and new is what gives Seoul its characteristic tension and charm.

Seoul City Hall 1 2 Wongudan

Seoul City Hall Station

Sungnyemun Gate Namdaemun Market Plateau Museum

1 4

Seoul Station

11 01 course1 Palatial Surroundings

Founded in 1940, Samcheong Park is one of Seoul's oldest public parks. It's a pleasantly shady spot with benches, walking paths and other common park amenities. It's also connected to a number of hiking paths, including the Seoul Fortress Wall Hiking Trail. Be sure to drop by the charming Samcheong Forest Library, an old snack shop that has been renovated into a place of reading. Walk down from Samcheong Park and you'll come to Samcheong-dong, a cozy stretch of boutiques, eateries and cafes that retains much of its laid-back charm despite swarms of tourists on the weekend. Military history buffs will want to see the Beonsachang, an old armory built in 1884 as Korea was attempting to modernize its military. It's on the grounds of the Korea Banking Institute.

Samcheong Foorest Library Samcheong-dong

Follow Samcheong-dong Road until you reach the eastern wall of Gyeongbokgung Palace. The history of Seoul's oldest palace is almost a microcosm of Korea's dramatic past: founded in 1395, it was burnt to the ground during the Japanese invasion of 1592, rebuilt in 1867 but almost completely destroyed again by the Japanese colonial government in the early 20th century. Much of what you see today is a post-war reconstruction, although some of the grander structures like main throne hall and stunning Gyeonghoeru Pavilion date from the 1867 reconstruction. A particularly scenic spot is the Hyangwonji Pond in the northern end of the palace---note how the pavilion harmonizes with the mountainous landscape in the distance. Gyeongbokgung Palace is also home to two museums of note. The National Folk Museum of Korea is home to 4,000 artifacts detailing the daily life of Koreans past. The National Palace Museum of Korea, meanwhile, holds artifacts from Seoul's royal palaces and is an especially good place to learn about the lives of Korea's royals.

Geunjeongmun Gate, Gyeongbokgung Palace Hyangwonjeong Pavilion, Gyeongbokgung Palace

02 course2 Road of the Six Ministries

The front gate of Gyeongbokgung Palace, Gwanghwamun Gate has had as tumultuous a past as the palace itself. In 1926, the gate was moved to the east side of the palace by the Japanese to make way for the massive Government-General Building (torn down in 1996). It was relocated to its original location, more or less, in 1963, but the restoration used concrete instead of wood. A proper restoration began in 2006 and was completed in 2010.

12 Sejong-ro Road

Connecting Gwanghwamun with the Sejong-ro Intersection is Sejong-ro, a wide boulevard lined by some of the country's most important political, economic, diplomatic and media institutions. This concentration of power has been a feature of the road going back to the Joseon Dynasty, when it was called Yukjogeori ("Six Ministries Road") since it was lined by, as the name would suggest, six royal ministries. Sejong-ro was originally 16 lanes wide, but in 2009 it was reduced to 10 lanes to make way for Gwanghwamun Plaza, a pedestrian space that stretches down the middle of the road for almost its entire length. The plaza is home to two prominent statues. Now surrounded by water fountains, the statue to Korean war hero Yi Sun-sin has been a Seoul landmark since 1968. To the north is a statue of a seated King Sejong the Great, the lauded 15th century monarch whose long list of accomplishments include the invention of the Korean script, Hangeul. Behind the statue is the entrance to the Story of King Sejong Exhibition Hall, a museum where you can learn about one of the greatest figures in Korean history. Flanking Gwanghwamun Plaza to the west is the massive Sejong Center for the Performing Arts, one of Korea's leading cultural spaces. To the east, meanwhile, is the Alleh Square Dream Hall, where you can take in jazz performances on Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday night for just KRW 1,000 a ticket. Also on the east side is Kyobo Book Centre, Korea's largest and most famous bookstore, with an extensive foreign-language collection. Just in front of Kyobo is the Bigak, a Korean-style pavilion erected in 1902 to commemorate the 40th anniversary of King Gojong's reign.

King Sejong Story Gwanghwamun Gate King Sejong Story

03 course3 Where You Can Find Anything Under the Sun

Keep moving south and you'll come to Ilmin Art Museum, housed in the historic former headquarters of the Dong-A Ilbo newspaper, and Cheonggyecheon Plaza, where the Cheonggyecheon Stream begins. In the old days, when Mt. Namsan marked the southern limit of the royal capital, the Cheonggyecheon was the largest, most important waterway in the city. After the Korean War, shantytowns built by refugees lined its banks and it became an open sewer.

13 Over a period of 20 years beginning in 1958, the stream was covered up with concrete, over which was built an elevated highway. In 2003, however, work began to tear down the highway and restore the stream. The restored waterway was opened to the public in 2005, providing Seoulites with a much-needed urban oasis of green. From Cheonggyecheon Plaza, keep following the main road south until you reach Seoul City Hall and Seoul Plaza. The wave- shaped glass structure is the new city hall, while the historic structure to its left is the old city hall, now used as a public library. On the top floor of the library is a museum, cafe and a rooftop garden. A short walk south of Seoul City Hall brings you to Sungnyemun Gate, the historic southern entrance to Seoul. First erected in 1398, the gate enjoyed a remarkably good run until 2008, when the wooden superstructure was largely destroyed in an arson attack. The gate was reopened in 2013 following a massive restoration project that not only repaired the fire damage but also rebuilt sections of Seoul's old city walls that were demolished by the Japanese colonial authorities in the early 20th century. The beautiful gate, surrounded by glass and steal skyscrapers, is a great representation of Seoul's dynamic harmony between old and new.

Cheonggye Plaza Sungnyemun Gate

Behind the gate is Namdaemun Market, one of Korea's two largest outdoor markets. While there's been a market in the area since 1414, the market really came into its own in the 20th century, and especially after the Korean War. The sprawling market sells pretty much anything under the sun, or as local merchants put it, "We've got everything except nuclear weapons and tanks." And if you look hard enough, you still might find the latter. The market is particularly known for its cheap clothing, ginseng and seaweed (particularly popular with the Japanese and Chinese tourist crowd) and cheap optical wear. It's a great place to eat, too. The end of the Jongno Bus 11 line is Seoul Station, one of Korea's busiest transportation hubs. It can be good fun to stand on the second floor concourse and watch the waves of people below. Next to the new station is the beautiful old station, easily recognized by its Byzantine dome. Completed in 1925, the station is now a cultural space called Culture Seoul Station 284.

Namdaemun Market Namdaemun Market

14 2015 Seoul Tour

The Real Gangnam Style

The glitzy neighborhoods south of the Hangang River are a testament to an economic miracle When you stroll about Gangnam, it's hard to imagine that this jungle of glass, steel and light was nothing but rice paddies just four decades ago. The so-called Miracle on the Hangang---Korea's remarkable economic development following the Korean War, which was less a miracle and more a product of wise planning and hard work---radically transformed Seoul's cityscape, especially south of the Hangang River, where a bucolic landscape was reborn as Korea's commercial hub. Still, amidst the Blade Runner- esque scenery, you can still find royal tombs, ancient temples and other reminders of the Korea of old...if you look hard enough.

Walking Course Park Hyatt Hotel--->COEX Mall--->Hyundai Development Headquarters--->Seven Luck Casino --->Bongeunsa--->Seolleung- -->Teheran-ro--->Kukkiwon--->Gangnam Station Area

This walk begins in Samseong-dong, an affluent district dominated by the World Trade Center Seoul, better known as COEX. Panoramic views of the neighborhood can be had from the top-floor lobby of the Park Hyatt Seoul---there's a restaurant/ cafe up there---but for a truly impressive experience, put on a swimming suit and take in the views from the hotel's infinity pool, also located on the top floor.

15 01 course1 COEX and Environs

Built in the 1980s as Korea was really coming into its own as an economic powerhouse, COEX is a sprawling complex centered on the COEX Convention & Exhibition Center. The exhibit center has held several major global gatherings recently, most notably the 2010 G-20 Seoul summit. The architecturally striking 54-story Trade Tower, meanwhile, is one of Korea's tallest buildings. For visitors, however, the main draw of the COEX is the COEX Mall (currently undergoing renovation through December 2014), one of Asia's largest underground shopping malls. The highlights here are the Megabox move theater, one of the country's best; the Bandi & Luni’s bookstore; the Kimchi Museum; and last but not least the COEX Aquarium, Korea's largest and finest home for displaced fish. Also in the COEX complex is the Seven Luck Casino, Korea's best- equipped casino. Admission is limited to foreigners only. Fans of post-modern architecture, meanwhile, will want to note the distinctive facade of the Hyundai Development Headquarters, just across the street from COEX. Dominated by a 62-meter ring with a vector plunging into the ground, the facade is the work of renowned American architect Daniel Libeskind. Located just next to COEX is Bongeunsa Temple, one of Seoul's best known Buddhist monasteries. Founded in 794, the temple is an island of traditional Korea in the heart of modern Seoul. One of the most inspiring views in Seoul can be had from just behind the temple's 23-meter-high statue of the Maitreya Buddha---the Buddha and the temple, surrounded by the souring skyscrapers of Gangnam, is one of the defining images of today's Korea. If you'd like to learn more about Korea's 1,700-year-old Buddhist heritage, the monastery hosts a popular Templestay program as well.

02 course2 Seolleung

More properly known as Seonjeongneung, the Joseon Dynasty royal tomb complex of Seolleung is comprised of two tombs: Seolleung, the tomb of the 15th century monarch King Seongjong and his queen, and Jeongneung, the tomb of Seongjong's son and later ruler himself King Jungjong. Unlike other royal tombs from the Joseon Dynasty, which are located in remote mountain areas in the suburbs surrounding Seoul, these tombs are located in the heart of the city itself, and hence have become a popular urban park. Like Bongeunsa, the tombs are an exercise in the contrast between old and new. Seolleung, along with all the other Joseon Dynasty tombs, were registered to UNESCO's World Heritage List in 2009.

16 03 course3 Teheran-ro & Kukkiwon

One of Gangnam's main thoroughfares, Teheran-ro---literally, Tehran Boulevard- --got its name following a 1976 visit to Seoul by the late Gholamreza Nikpey, then mayor of the Iranian capital of Tehran. Stretching from Samseong-dong to Gangnam Station, the road is flanked on both sides by skyscrapers, forming something of an artificial canyon. Speaking of geological formations, the road is also commonly referred to as Teheran Valley thanks to the many IT-related firms that have offices here. Off Teheran-ro is the Kukkiwon, the World Taekwondo Headquarters and home of the World Taekwondo Academy. A pilgrimage site for countless taekwondo practitioners from around the world, the academy is a training center for athletes and coaches. International visitors who want to experience a bit of Korea's best-known martial art can take part in the Kukkiwon's hands- on taekwondo experience program, where they can learn the basic stances, self-defense techniques and even the art of breaking wood boards. Be aware, however, that many of these programs are held at Gyeonghuigung Palace (located north of the Hangang River). 04 course4 Gangnam Station

This walk concludes in the area around Gangnam Station, one of Seoul's busiest transportation hubs. A 2012 study by the Ministry of Land, Transport and Maritime Affairs found that 110,129 people board subways and 114,338 people get off subways here every day. It's worth coming here just to watch the sea of humanity come and go. As you might expect given the floating population, the area around the station and its associated intersection has turned into a vibrant shopping and entertainment district. And, for local businesses, and expensive one at that, with some of the highest rent in the world. The area just north of the station is a very popular nightlife district that's chock-full of restaurants, bars and clubs. Gangnamdae-ro, one of the major roads that passes through Gangnam Intersection, is lined by so-called Media Poles, 12-meter tall digital facilities that serve as street lamps, traffic signals, digital media displays, information booths, photo mail service stations and more. Mostly, however, they serve as reminders that you're walking in the heart of Korea's Silicon Valley. A number of Korea's biggest corporations also have their headquarters near Gangnam Station. The most spectacular of these headquarters is Samsung Town, the combined headquarters of Samsung Electronics, Samsung C&T and Samsung Life Insurance. The glass skyscrapers, designed by American architectural firm Kohn Pedersen Fox, make for one of Gangnam's most dramatic sites. Most of the complex is off-limits to non-employees, but visitors can drop by the Samsung d’light, an exhibit space where you can check out the electronics giant's latest toys.

17 2015 Seoul Tour

View from 63 City

2015

서울관광코

Reality Walks 스북

While Korean soap operas and K-pop music have gotten the most attention overseas, a number of Korean variety shows such as “Running Man” (2010), “We Got Married” (2008) and “2 Days & 1 Night” (2007) have become major overseas hits, too. In this walk, we’ll visit some downtown spots that have appeared in some of your favorite variety shows. In so doing, we’ll learn a bit about the history of Seoul as well.

Byeol Dabang Jongmyo Miss Lee Shrine (We Got Married) Gwanghwamun Square (Running Man) Nagwon Arcade Jongno 3-ga (Running Man) Station Gwanghwamun Station

Seoul Library (Running Man)

Jeong-dong Euljiro 3-ga Station (Two Days, One Night) City Hall Station

Myeong-dong Cathedral (Two Days, One Night)

Chungmuro Station

N Seoul Tower (We Got Married) Seoul Station

18 01 course1 The Heart of Old Seoul

We begin at Gwanghwamun Square, where members of the “Running Man” team held a sports competition. Stretching from Gwanghwamun Gate, the entrance to Gyeongbokgung Palace, to Gwanghwamun Intersection, the landmark plaza that opened in 2009, has been the administrative center of Korea for centuries. Just as it was during the Joseon Dynasty (1392– 1910), it continues to be lined by important ministries and government bodies. The square is best known for its beautiful fountain, which lights up at a night, and its grand statues of Joseon war hero Yi Sun-sin and brilliant 15th century monarch King Sejong the Great. Underneath the plaza are exhibit halls dedicated to Yi and King Sejong where you can learn more about these two important historical figures. A short walk east from Gwanghwamun Square brings you to the entrance of artsy Insa-dong street, where you’ll find the Miss Lee Café (T. 02-739-0939), a delightfully eclectic teashop where singer/actor Jung Yong Hwa went on a date with singer Seohyun on the popular reality show “We Got Married.” Insa-dong has plenty of wonderful Korean teahouses, but this one is designed with a modern—if a bit kitsch—sensibility that makes it popular with the younger crowd. In addition to Korean teas and snacks like bingsu (shaved ice), it also serves old-school lunch boxes of the type enjoyed by the students of yesteryear.

2015

서울관광코

스북

Byeol Dabang Miss Lee Byeol Dabang Miss Lee

Stroll down Insa-dong, passing by its many galleries, craft shops and eateries, until you reach the end of the street. There you’ll see the Nagwon Arcade, Korea’s most famous musical instrument market. It’s also where the cast of “Running Man” spent an episode, well, running around. There are hundreds of shops selling all sorts of musical instruments, amps and other audio equipment on the second and third floors of the large complex, which sits atop pillars allowing traffic to pass underneath. It’s also a good place to get your instrument fixed, if need be. Film buffs will want to check out the fourth floor, where you’ll find Seoul Art Cinema as well as a theater specially designed for the elderly. 02 course2 Early Modernity to the Best Views in Seoul

A 10-minute walk south from Nagwon Arcade will eventually bring you to Seoul Metropolitan Library (T. 2133-0300), a historic building finished in 1926 that for decades served as Seoul’s city hall. The “Running Man” crew also spent an episode exploring the structure. After the opening of the massive new City Hall building, located just behind it, the old building was converted into a library, which opened in 2012. The library is home to over 200,000 books, including a sizable foreign-language section. The old mayor’s office has been preserved as a museum, and the top floor has an exhibit hall with artifacts from the building’s construction and renovation. The top floor also features a nice, cheap coffee shop and a wonderful roof garden. The grass plaza in front of the library is a popular gathering place that regularly hosts cultural events, performances and rallies.

Seoul Library Roof Garden

19 Across the main street from the library is Deoksugung Palace and the pleasantly tranquil neighborhood of Jeong-dong, Seoul’s historic legation quarter, which appeared in the popular travel related variety show “2 Days & 1 Night.” Along its tree-lined streets you’ll find old churches, missionary schools and diplomatic compounds, as well as the Seoul Museum of Art. To get a bird’s eye view of the neighborhood, visit Jeong-dong Observatory, a café on the 13th floor of Seoul City Hall’s Seosomun Annex.

Deoksugung Palace Deoksugung Doldam-gil

From Jeong-dong, it’s a bit of a hike through the heart of the city until you reach the buzzing Myeong-dong district, the commercial heart of Seoul. This is where you’ll find some of Korea’s best shopping and dining opportunities. It’s also home to one of Korea’s most beautiful pieces of religious architecture, Myeongdong Cathedral, which readers may know from an episode of “2 Days & 1 Night.” Built by French missionaries, the grand Gothic church was completed in 1898. In addition to being the mother church of Korea’s Catholic community, the cathedral was also an important place of sanctuary for activists during Korea’s democratization struggle. The cathedral has a crypt chapel holding the relics of nine martyrs, including several French priests martyred in the 19th century.

From Myeong-dong, hop on a Mt. Namsan–bound bus and take it to N Seoul Tower, perhaps the city’s most recognized landmark. It was also a featured date location on “We Got Married.” Opened as a transmission tower in 1969, the 263.7-meter- high tower sits at the summit of 243-meter-tall Mt. Namsan, providing jaw-dropping views of the city from its observation deck. The restrooms have awe-inspiring views, too. The tower itself has several restaurants, while the plaza below it has coffee parlors, shops, viewpoints and cultural facilities. There’s also a fence covered in locks placed by visiting couples as symbols of their undying love.

20 Seoul Library Roof Garden

Popular Korean Variety Shows

> Running Man: Hosted by Yoo Jae-suk, this popular variety show on SBS makes guests race through urban environments as they complete tasks in well-known and lesser-known landmarks. Going strong since 2010, the show has proven so popular internationally that several overseas episodes have been filmed. > We Got Married: Debuting in 2008, this reality show on MBC pairs up popular Korean celebrities to show what their lives would be like if they were married. There’s a Chinese version, too, and a couple of global episodes featuring entertainers from other Asian countries have also been shot. > 2 Days & 1 Night: This travel-related reality show first aired on KBS2 in 2007. Participants engage in a series of missions during trips to interesting—and often remote—locations throughout Korea.

21 2015 Seoul Tour

View from 63 City

River of Light

The Hangang River offers some of the best night views in Seoul

While New York gets credit as the city that never sleeps, to really experience a town that operates on a 24-hour basis, you’ve got to come to Seoul. The Korean capital is plenty exciting during the daylight hours, of course, but it really comes alive after sunset, when its streets and alleyways pulsate with an infectious energy. When night falls, Seoul is a place of endless possibilities. Perhaps unsurprisingly, then, Seoul is blessed with a fine nighttime cityscape, which can be enjoyed from a number of easily reached vantage points. Some of the best views of the city at night can be had from along or even on the Hangang River, Seoul’s landmark waterway. This tour will take us to some of the best nighttime viewpoints in the city, both from above and from ground level.

Hangang Park & Mulbit Squareà Conrad Hotel Yeouidoà IFC Mallà 63 Cityà Hangang Cruiseà Banpo Bridge & Moonlight Rainbow Fountainà Jamsil Seokchon Lake & Lotte Worldà Park Hyatt Seoulà Bongeunsa

Hangang Park & Mulbit Square

Conrad Hotel & IFC Mall Hangang Cruise Yeouido Pier

Yeouido Station 63 City Bongeunsa Hangang Cruise Jamsil Station Banpo Bridge & Jamsil Pier Moonlight Rainbow Park Hyatt Seoul Hotel Fountain Samseong Station Jamsil Seokchon Lake & Lotte World

22 01 course1 Seoul’s Manhattan

Yeouido Hangang Park Yeouido Hangang Park IFC Mall

Yeouido is often called Seoul’s Manhattan, and the comparison is not without some basis; this long island in the Hangang River is both home to the city’s tallest buildings and the financial and political heart of Korea. With its views of the river and pleasant pools and fountains, Yeouido Hangang Park and its Mulbit Square is a fine place to stroll about relaxingly in the early evening. The Conrad Seoul Hotel, featured in the 2013 drama “That Winter: The Wind Blows,” is not only one of Seoul’s newest luxury hotels, but is also blessed with dramatic views over the Hangang River from its highly recommended restaurants and bars. The hotel is part of the larger International Finance Center Seoul, or IFC, a massive mixed-use development crowned by the 55-story Three IFC Building, one of Korea’s tallest buildings. Hidden beneath the skyscrapers is the IFC Mall, a trendy shopping center that, during the daylight hours, is lit by natural light that pours in through its 17m high glass pavilions. Both the Conrad and the IFC Mall are good places to eat, too.

IFC Mall

At the eastern tip of the island is 63 City, perhaps Seoul’s best recognized architecture landmark. Completed in 1985, the golden tower---yes, it really is covered in a thin layer of 24-carat gold--- was briefly the tallest building outside of North America when it opened. The top floor hosts an art gallery (the world’s highest!) and an observation deck which offers dramatic sunsets over the Hangang River and the rest of the city. It’s a view you’ve got to experience at least once during your visit. If you’d prefer a more private view of the sunset, just below the observation deck is the plush eatery Above the Clouds, one of the most romantic date spots in the country. In the lower floors of View from 63 City the tower is a shopping mall and a very large aquarium, one of Korea’s best.

23 02 course2 Cruising the Hangang

Not far from 63 City is Yeouido Pier, where you can catch a cruise boat on the Hangang River. The ultimate in evening relaxation, the cruise lets you take in the city’s inspiring nighttime scenery from water level and enjoy the refreshing summer breeze while you’re at it. Several cruise options are available, with the longest ones going to Jamsil in the eastern part of the city. Among the scenic highlights you’ll pass is the Banpo Bridge and its spectacular Moonlight Rainbow Fountain, the world’s longest bridge fountain with its 380 multicolored water jets. Next to the Banpo Bridge is the so-called Floating Islands, an architecturally inspired set of artificial islands that are lit up at night. Several of the river’s landmark bridges, including the historic Hangang Bridge, are lit up at night as well.

Moonlight Rainbow Fountain Floating Islands 03 course3 Jamsil Vistas

The cruise boat will dock at Jamsil Pier, the gateway to Seoul’s southeastern Jamsil district, home to Olympic Stadium, Jamsil Baseball Stadium and the sprawling Olympic Park. One of Seoul’s most popular tourist destinations, Lotte World is a massive entertainment and leisure complex that is home to the world’s largest indoor amusement park. At night however, the real gem is the outdoor amusement park, the eye- caching Magic Island, with its Disney-esque castle which is lit up at night. True to its name, the park is located on an island in the middle of Seokchon Lake, a section of the Hangang River that was transformed into an artificial lake due to land reclamation in the 1970s. The lake, a popular recreation area, is lined by walking and jugging paths. You’ll find plenty of restaurants and pubs around at night, too. A short subway ride from Jamsil will bring you to the bustling Samseong-dong district, home to the COEX Mall, one of the largest shopping centers in the world, currently in renovation. Overlooking the mall is the Park Hyatt Seoul, where you can enjoy stunning panoramic views of Seoul at night from the hotel’s unique top-floor lobby. The top floor is also home to The Lounge, a wonderful coffee shop that shares the same panoramic views as the lobby. Also near COEX is the historic Buddhist temple of Bongeunsa. An oasis of peace and tranquility in the heart of the city, the temple is well worth a visit on its own merit, but for one of the most inspiring night views of the city, climb the hill behind the temple’s grand statue of the Buddha. The view of the Buddha against the backdrop of Seoul’s glass and steel skyscrapers is not only beautiful, but also a microcosm of the coexistence of traditional and modern that epitomizes the Korean capital.

Seokchon Lake Bongeunsa Temple

24 2015 Seoul Tour

Seoul's Autumn Colors

You don't have to leave the city to experience the beauty of the Korean fall

While it might be fun to brave the rugged wilds of Samcheonggak Gangwon-do or ascend the high peaks of Mt. Jirisan

Buam-dong in the far-off south to take in the autumn colors, you don't have to leave the city limits to experience the beautiful hues of the Korean fall. Here are some of SEOUL's recommendations for places in the northern half of Seoul where you can stroll amidst the autumn foliage.

Walking Course Changdeokgung Haneul Park- Mt. Namsan - Jeong-dong - Unhyeongung Palace - Changdeokgung - Anguk Station Gyeongbokgung Gyeongbokgung - Samcheonggak - Buam-dong

Unhyeongung Gyeongbokgung Station Palace

Jongno 3-ga Station

Jonggak Station

City Hall Station Euljiro 3-ga Station

Jeong-dong Chungmuro Station

Myeong-dong Station

Seoul Station

Namsan Mountain

25 01 course1 Haneul Park

We begin this exploration of Seoul autumn a bit out of the way, but for good reason. Located in the eastern end of town by World Cup Stadium, Haneul Park is a former landfill that has been transformed into one of Seoul's most beautiful parks. In autumn, its endless fields of eulalia grass turn into a shimmering sea of silver. The most popular time to visit is during the Seoul Eulalia Festival (Oct 18--27), when the fields are lit up at night, but the best time to visit in this writer's opinion is sunrise, when the reeds glow red in the light of the rising sun. The views of the Hangang River, Mt. Namsan and Bukhansan National Park are inspiring.

Getting There: World Cup Stadium Station 월드컵경기장역 (Line 6), Exit 1 02 course2 Mt. Namsan

Few major cities in the world have a mountain in the middle of downtown. In the heart of Seoul, however, you'll find Mt. Namsan, a 262-meter peak crowned by the iconic N Seoul Tower. The hill is criss-crossed by hiking trails and it’s nearly impossible to get lost. The mountain is covered in thick forests of pine and maple, the latter of which turn crimson in autumn. The beltway that runs along the mountain's midsection, meanwhile, is lined by ginkgo trees that turn golden yellow. If you don't want to hike, a cable car takes you nearly to the top, and the views from the gondola are worth the ticket price.

Getting There: The cable car station is a 10 minute walk from Exit 3 of Myeongdong Station 명동역 (Line 4) 03 course3 Jeong-dong

The tree-lined road that follows the southern stone wall of Deoksugung Palace, the so-called Deoksugung Doldam-gil, is one of Seoul's most romantic autumn walks. The trees along the road form a canopy that blazes in all hues of red, orange and gold. In late fall, the fallen leaves blowing in the wind provide just the right amount of autumnal melancholy. The Jeong-dong neighborhood is home to many old schools, churches and legations left over from the time when this was Seoul's Western legation quarter. Beautiful old ginkgo trees are everywhere. The best views of the area can be had from the Jeong-dong Observatory on the 13th floor of Seoul City Hall's Seosomun Annex.

Getting There: City Hall Station 시청역 (Line 1 or 2), Exit 2 or 12

26 04 course4 Unhyeongung Palace

Despite its name, Unhyeongung Palace was never a palace, per se, although during the long regency of Heungseon Daewongun, the father of Korea's penultimate monarch King Gojong and real power behind the throne for much of the late 19th century, it was the de-factor seat of royal authority. Considered one of the finest remaining Joseon Dynasty residences in Korea, the old manor home exudes a rustic charm. Its gardens of ginkgoes, zelkova trees and maples make for a lovely autumn stroll. Be sure to check out the garden of the Western-style Unhyeongung Yanggwan next door as well.

Getting There: Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 4 Sejong-ro Road

05 course5 Changdeokgung

Changdeokgung Palace is the second-oldest of Seoul's five palaces, founded in 1405. In terms of splendor, however, it is second to none. In particular, its splendid rear garden, the Huwon, is considered the finest example of Korean landscaping in the world. The garden, which is divided into inner and outer sections, remains as true to the original landscape as possible. In autumn, the garden erupts into all shades of red and gold. The palace and its garden were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. If you go on a weekend this autumn, don't even dream of getting a ticket for the Huwon unless you've reserved a spot first. You can book a spot online at eng.cdg.go.kr. Getting There: Anguk Station 안국역 (Line 3), Exit 3 06 course6 Gyeongbokgung

Founded in 1395 as the first royal residence of the new Joseon Dynasty (1392- -1910), Gyeongbokgung is the grandest of the old palaces. What you see today, however, largely dates from a 19th century reconstruction and later restorations. Highlights of the palace including the imposing throne hall, the Geunjeongjeon; the graceful Gyeonghoeru, a royal banquette pavilion surrounded by a square pond; and the Hyangwonjeong, a pleasure pavilion surrounded by a reflecting pond with reflections of not only the pavilion itself, but the surrounding mountains as well. The palace gardens are filled with maples, pines and ginkgoes, so it’s quite a colorful place to stroll about in autumn, especially when the sky is high and blue.

Getting There: Gyeongbokgung Palace 경복궁역 (Line 3), Exit 5

27 07 course7 Samcheonggak

Hidden on the forested slopes of Mt. Bugaksan, Samcheonggak is a pleasant cultural space, restaurant and cafe that was originally built as a venue for secret talks between South and North Korean officials in 1972. Its terrace coffee shop offers wonderful views of downtown Seoul and the surrounding mountains, which turn crimson and gold in autumn. Now run by the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts, Samcheonggak hosts regular performances of Korean traditional music and dance. Its Korean restaurant is highly regarded, too. As an added bonus, it has free shuttle bus service to downtown Seoul. Samcheonggak is also a good place to begin explorations of Mt. Bugaksan, the old northern guardian mountain of Seoul. Long sections of the city's old city wall still line its ridges.

Getting There: Take a shuttle bus from the Hyundai Gallery, right next to Gyeongbokgung Palace.

08 course8 Buam-dong

Buam-dong is something of a quiet mountain retreat nestled in the valley between Mt. Bugaksan and Mt. Inwangsan. In the days of old, its splendid scenery moved aristocrats to build grand villas here. One of them, the lovely old Seokpajeong, has been lovingly restored and is now part of the Seoul Museum, one of the city's top art museums. Today, the leafy neighborhood is filled with coffee houses, quaint eateries, and plenty of galleries and museums such as the Whanki Museum, which houses the work of famed painter Kim Whanki (1913--1974), and the Yun Dong-ju Literature Hall, a museum with displays of the writings and personal items of 20th-century poet Yun Dong-ju.

Getting There: From Gwanghwamun Station 광화문역 (Line 3), Exit 5, follow the road that hugs the west side of Gyeongbokgung Palace and, beyond that, Mt. Gugaksan until you reach Yun Dong-ju Hill and Changuimun Gate.

28 2015 Seoul Tour

Nighttime Stroll Around Sinsa-Dong

A-LAND Yollo Seeking style, sweets and eats in Seoul’s Little Serosu-gil Narosu-gil Europe after the sunset. Garosu-gil Walking Course Pier 17 Sinsa Station - Muneo Chicken - Serosu-gil - Deli Around the Corner Mercy Juice Heinzburg - Pier 17 - Garosu-gil - A-LAND - 9 Owls Sambazon Around the Corner - 8seconds - 9 Owls - Boto Acai Deli Heinzburg Simone Handbang Museum - Material Bazaar - Olive Young – Lohb’s - Narosu-gil - Dore Dore - Dore Dore Sambazon Boto Acai - Mercy Juice - Yollo - Spa Lei

8seconds

Simone Handbang Museum / Lohb’s Material Bazaar Spa Lei Olive Young Muneo Chicken

Sinsa Station 6 8 5 7 12

2 01 course1 Introduction to Sinsa-dong

It’s no secret that Korea, in the short span of a decade, has become one of Asia’s biggest epicenters of music, film and pop culture. Yet, as the country’s cultural influence continues to expand to other regions of the world, more and more people are looking to Korea for the latest trends in beauty and fashion. Sinsa-dong, situated just south of the Han River in the upscale Gangnam district, is an incubator of such trends. It is a mustvisit neighborhood for those seeking to shop for the hottest styles and places to unwind with a glass of wine after a long day. Often touted as the “Paris of Korea,” the European-esque fashion district sparkles with gorgeously decorated boutiques, modern dining spaces and romantic cafés at night. Perhaps the only things more beautiful than the area itself are the people that wander its sidewalks, perfectly polished and ever-ready to strike a pose for the amateur fashion bloggers competing for the best shot. But knowing where to start in Sinsa can be a bit daunting, as the neighborhood’s dining, shopping and entertainment options are endless. Fortunately, thanks to the collective big data research efforts of the Seoul Tourism Organization, SK Telecom and Shinhan bank, a helpful self-guided tour route has been created, featuring international travelers’ favorite hangouts in a neighborhood that is particularly beautiful at night, when storefront windows are illuminated and crowds dwindle. So, follow along with this issue’s Seoul Walks guide that incorporates this evening tour, as well as some lesser known neighborhood gems, to get the full Sinsa experience.

29 02 course2 Chicken, octopus and gumbo

Located just minutes from Sinsa Station, Muneo Chicken is a perfect place to begin a night out in Sinsa. Although the popular eatery serves up a good selection of fried treats, their most popular dish is the platter which shares the name of the restaurant: a large portion of fried octopus (served whole) and chicken, accompanied by a salad and potato wedges. The unusual chewy-crispy texture combination and tasty flavors of the dish pair well with Muneo Chicken’s signature frozen beer. The dining experience is only enhanced by the pocha (street food tent) atmosphere, where diners of all ages can be found chowing down on this bizarre but brilliant dish. . Nearby Serosu-gil offers more dining options to cater to even the pickiest of palates. Deli Heinzburg offers up some of the best sandwiches in the city, made using imported meats and cheeses that are topped with local fresh ingredients. For authentic New Orleans cuisine, head to Pier 17, which serves gumbo, jambalaya and boiled seafood as well as some very creative cocktails. Try the Shark Attack, a blue margarita topped with a plastic shark that oozes strawberry daiquiri “blood” when squeezed.

03 course3 Material world

After fueling up on food and throwing back a few drinks, make your way to Garosu-gil, Sinsa’s gateway to fashion and beauty. A-LAND is a five-story multi-shop of unique, affordable wares; funky accessories, shoes and clothing for both women and men are arranged by brand, most of which are Korean, and appeal to the individual seeking something unconventional, like a measuring tape bracelet or studded army boots. Just down the street, Around the Corner offers a similar, though smaller, collection of items, and is worth a visit, if only for window shopping. Conversely, 8seconds boasts more basic duds that come in a variety of colors and prints. Those in the market for something a bit more classic should check out 9 Owls, a vintage boutique overflowing with fun styles from the 1970s and 80s, and an entire wall of Chanel bags that will make any fashionista go gaga. Speaking of bags, the Simone Handbag Museum, housed in a striking building with a glass facade and a roof made to resemble purse handles, can’t be missed. Inside is an impressive collection of handbags; one floor is dedicated to contemporary styles of the West while the other features historical handbags dating back to as early as the 1500s. The building also boasts a workshop where Korean artisans can be watched cutting, stripping and sewing the latest designs. Fashion enthusiasts can also create their own handbags with the gorgeous, high-quality materials on sale in the Material Bazaar, located in the basement. Makeup junkies will be happy to know that Garosu-gil is brimming with beauty shops that cater to just about every budget. And although it’s easy to spend all evening shop-hopping, sampling moisturizers, lip tints and BB cream, the product that put Korean cosmetics on the map, Olive Young and Lohb’s are undoubtedly Sinsa’s best one-stop shops for all your beauty needs. The latter is the bigger of the two, but both offer an endless array of domestic and international brands of toiletries, cosmetics and even specialty snacks. There are also entire sections dedicated to male grooming, so guys will not feel left out of the Sinsa shopping experience.

30 04 course4 Something sweet

No visit to Sinsa is complete without a visit to one of the area’s many dessert cafes, and neighboring Narosu-gil abounds with the neighborhood’s best. The display cases at the counter of Dore Dore are hypnotizing and lure customers like moths to a flame. Stocked with mile-high layered cakes of every color and flavor, it's impossible not to order a slice. Most patrons go straight for the rainbow varieties, of which there are two kinds: Precious, made of rainbow-colored cake layers separated with fresh cream, and Feel Good!, a similar concept that uses thick slabs of Philadelphia cream cheese. Other options include red velvet, chocolate, lemon and carrot.

For those watching their waistlines, there are healthier treats to be had further down the road. Sambazon Boto Acai, a relatively new snack joint, has only one item on their menu: the acai bowl. Generous portions of pureed acai berry are topped with nutritional ingredients such goji berries, chia seeds, cacao nibs and a variety of fresh fruit; the bowls are as healthy as they are tasty and refreshing. Detox juices, which are becoming increasingly trendy, can be ordered at Mercy Juice in single servings or in bulk. Greek yogurt, another favorite snack of the health conscious, can be ordered by the cup or bottle, in frozen or smoothie form at Yollo. Add-on options include granola, agave syrup and mint.

05 course5 No boys allowed

When the food coma settles in, hail a taxi to Spa Lei to soothe your aching shopping arms. Unlike most jjimjilbangs, or public bath houses, in Korea, Spa Lei is for women only and goes out of its way to accommodate its female guests. The rock sauna, which is essentially a bed of heated stones that contour to the curves of the body, is particularly relaxing, and the massaging jets of the hot tubs will have you never wanting to leave Sinsa-dong. Eventually, you must, but for the time being, soak it up and enjoy.

This content is based on Korea Culture & Tourism Institute’s R&D project to analyze big data compiled from roaming services.

31 2015 Seoul Tour

View from 63 City

HongdaeStylin’ It Up

See why Hongdae is still the place to be

Walking Course Hapjeong Station, Exit 8 - YG Entertainment - Café Streets (Humming Bella) - Shop1 (Around the Corner, Aland, Understar) - Shop2 (Atria, Style Nanda) - Haircuts (Nothing N Nothing, Hair by Miga) - Keep your things in the subway lockers at Hongdae Univ. Station—and look out for Buskers on your way out from Exit 9 - (by cab) BBQ Hapjeong Star - Su Norarebang - Clubbing (Thursday Party, Naked, NB1, NB2)

Ho 5 . ngik Uni tn S 2 v. v ni . 8 7 St n. gik U n 6 M a Ho ng 1 w o n 1 2 St 9 n .

i Tax

Aland Understar y Party Around Thursda the Corner Naked NB1 NB2 2 Hongik 1 Su Noraebang Univ. 3 4 n. St ng jeo ap 9 10 H

8 5 H apjeon YG Entertainment 6 g S tn 7 .

1 2 Sangsu Stn. 4 3

32 01 course1 Hongdae Course

Hongdae is the scene where Korean culture, both pop and indie, manifests, especially at night. More information on planning a Sangam day trip can be soon found at K-stars and their K-style- -if the Korean Wave has washed over you, then there’s no better place to tread the path of such tastemakers as Hongdae, the live-wire district of music and art culture. Whether you’ve come on your own or with equally eager friends, the ever-trending university area remains the only place in Seoul where you can transition from daytime exploring to nighttime adventures just as easily as you shuffle through your K-Pop playlist.

02 course2 Hongdae Street Art

Keep in mind, however, that the selections below were not made on some arbitrary whim, but are the results of an analysis using big data to see where tourists are actually going--

To the uninitiated, Hongdae can be a bit overwhelming at first: Its bright lights, meandering alleyways and undiscovered hole-in-the-wall shops make finding your niche a bit challenging among the neighborhood’s art-kid energy. For this reason, SEOUL has brought in some help, this month in the form of big data, the collaborated efforts of Seoul Tourism Marketing, Shinhan Card and SK Telecom. While some of the results may not be surprising -- we noticed a surging interest for Korean fashion--it has helped us spot some of the most popular spots in one of Korea’s most iconic neighborhoods, as well as helping us tease out some of the underrated experiences. So whether you’re a year or two out of your university days or 10, we suggest you give Hongdae’s bustling evening scene another shot: Check out our how-to for the quintessential Korean night on the town, and give yourself a makeover that’s edgy and fun --no hearsay, no rumors, just facts.

Finding the YG Entertainment building from Hapjeong Station isn’t as difficult as you’d think, but may be grab a coffee for the walk. As you snap a few photos of the avant-garde tower--selfie sticks for KRW 5,000 in the subway station were a good investment--you can imagine seeing Tablo emerge, and the song “Happen Ending” pops into your head from Epik High’s new album. The track’s melancholic echo floats around your mind until you happen upon the unmarked border between Hapjeong and Hongdae, a distinction noted by the increase in foot traffic.

33 03 course3 Cafe Culture

You check your phone and realize you’re a little early to meet your friends, so you decide to pull up a chair at the nearby Humming Bella café. A seat requires an order, so you have some Earl Grey chiffon cake and an Americano on a whim, a deliciously fluffy and lightly savory pairing. Halfway through cake and coffee, you remember to text your friends your location--good thing free wireless Internet is a mainstay in Seoul--and they arrive, ready for the pre-game: shopping.

04 course4 Shopping in Hongdae

Across the street and around the corner is a three-story store aptly named Around the Corner, Its multi-designer displays only cover two floors, but the smaller selection gives customers room to consider the subtler hip- hop motifs and mixed prints that punctuate the street wear-filled racks. Remember, just because Hongdae is more casual and “free” than, say, Gangnam or Apgujeong doesn’t mean fashion doesn’t matter. The vibe, as you now see from the stores and the streets, is effortless with a bent edge -- the true Hongdae touch. You can see more of that in the quintessential Hongdae institution Aland and the up-and-comer Understar with popularity that’s now been big-data affirmed.

Walking toward the university gate, you pass by a series of street makeup brands and wonder whose marketing idea it was to have male actors like Kim Soo-hyun or Jo In-sung front beauty products for women at Beyond or Missha, respectively, only to have your thoughts interrupted by a girlish squeal. One of your friends insists that more selfies are needed, and after posing in front of the murals of an alley off the main street, you begin humming.

The must-go spots, so you’re told, are the flagship stores Style Nanda, sitting on a nearby side street parallel with the art school, and Atria, closer to Exit 8 of Hongdae Station. Style Nanda is for bold street-style- photographer bait and the brand’s in-house cosmeticsline3 Concept Eyes. Full of bright pigments, liners and even hair chalk, you’ll spot plenty of eager girls trying things out in the aisles. Nail decals might be fun for tonight, but the waterproof lip liners are begging to be put to the test.

Atria on the other hand, aims for a more subtle statement of presence, excelling at curation rather than excess, with a small adjacent caféand mini library for a little peace and quiet.

34 05 course5 Styles & Hair Stylin'

The guys in the group pop into menswear shops for something dandier, and in the meantime, famed barbershop Nothing n’ Nothing is right next door: For KRW 10,000, stylist Daniel will whip your hair into rockabilly shape for the night.

Despite being shopped out, there’s still the matter of primping. When else can you get an authentically K-Pop star-esque look? There are a dozen hair-and-makeup salons nearby. One of the Hair by Miga chain salons is near the subway where simple, party-prepped hairislisted for KRW 20,000-25,000. Their limited English isn’t a problem; a picture of CL alone will suffice. 06 course6 Street Performances

Leaving the salon feeling freshly dusted with “I’m different” by Hi Suhyun playing overheard, a thought occurs to you: What are you going to do with all of your new purchases? Before you groan about trekking back to the hotel, one of your friends reminds you they can split the cost of one of the big storage lockers in the subway--KRW 4,000 for 12 hours. As you climb out of Exit 9,there are buskers abound: There’s a magician wooing a crowd on one end and a caricature artist on a nearby ledge, but what resonates with you is a songstress offering an acoustic rendition of AOA’s comeback, “Like a Cat.”

07 course7 Eat, Drink & Be Merry

A good place to get start is BBQ Hapjeong Star, a taxi ride away from Exit 9. It’s owned by Sungyeol, a member of the pop group Infinite, but don’t let that turn you away -- the food is actually worth seeking out. Regardless of whether you’ve got the courage, going out in Korea means you’ve committed to an hour of singing pop songs at a Karaoke room, or noraebang. The Luxury Su Noraebang ’sis fifteen minutes away from Hapjeong Star, about the right time to get the chicken down. Its estate-like edifice is intimidating, but the home-cozy room, with its hardwood floors and welcoming, wall-lined couches, is worth splitting KRW 25,000 over.

35 The final tier to the evening cake is still to come: clubs. One particular block in Hongdae has the highest concentration of clubs compared to anywhere, and its five minutes from the noraebang. There you will find Thursday Party, which has an American college town pub kind of vibe, right down to the beer pongs and its English speaking customers. Naked seems to be the place to be; a queue of club-ready people outside speaks volumes. Few minutes away are local favorites,NB1 and NB2, acronyms for the first and second Noise Basements, both have huge lines and the familiar sounds of K-Pop blasting out their respective front doors. The crowd is part of the fun, but if you actually want room to dance, arriving before midnight is key. The DJ interlaces samplings of American Top 40 with techno and electronic synth, and bass with a bit of shuffle is a familiar and catchy boost. It’s the remix of BigBang’s “Fantastic Baby” that reminds you that K-Pop has been your reliable pulse throughout the day and continues on into the night. Dance cardio drains the group and everyone is eager for some street-style tteokbokki, sweet and fiery rice cakes, and some fresh air. One spicy bite makes you exhale your 4AMweariness as you inhale the crisp air of early winter. One friend throws in a vote for another hour of noraebang, while others question whether Cocoon is worth the hype. Looking around, couples linking arms, laugh and shuffle into taxis for some late night Korean barbeque, while groups of men post-army discharge race to gulp down soju-coffees outside a convenient store to keep the party going. Hongdae is still ready to shuffle; all you have to do is press play.

36 2015 Seoul Tour

Sangam-dong: Heart of the Korean Wave

This course is the day segment of the Sangam & Hongdae one-day tour, designed to give you the full Korean Wave experience. Sangam-dong, the new Hallyu headquarters with several major production and broadcasting companies, is perfect for a day trip, while Hongdae, four subway stops away, is the scene where Korean culture, both pop and indie, manifests, especially at night.

First opened in 2002, Samgam-dong’s Digital Media City is the high-tech and architectural inspired heart of Korea’s entertainment and digital content industry. This is where you’ll find broadcasters, entertainment companies, movie theaters and tributes to many of your Korean Wave stars. It’s also a very pleasant and somewhat underrated spot to spend a couple of hours wandering about the steel and glass monuments to the international giant Korea’s cultural industry has become.

Walking Course Digital Media City Station, Exit 9 -> SBS Prism Tower -> MBC Contents World Tour -> Star Park -> Korean Film Archive -> CJ E&M -> Back to Digital Media City Station, Exit 9 (4 stops to Hapjeong Station)

MBC Contents 1 Susaek Stn. World Sus aek St n.

Korean Film Archive Star Park

SBS Prism Tower

CJ E&M

DigitalDi Media City Stn. 5 g 6 it al Me Digital Media City Stn. Di d 9 g ia Ci 1 ita 4 l Me ty S d t ia City S n. 8 tn . . tn

City S a

al Medi it g DigitalDi Media City Stn. 2 3

37 01 course1 SBS Prism Tower

This walking tour begins at the SBS Prism Tower. Our walking tour begins at SBS Prism Tower, an imposing glass skyscraper that is home to Korean TV broadcaster SBS. The building really shines on sunny days, when the sky reflects off the glass exterior like a mirror. It’s mostly office space, so there’s not a whole lot to do here on most days other than take in the artwork in the first floor lobby, but on 2PM Sunday and 6PM on Tuesdays, it hosts open broadcasts of K-pop shows Ingi Gayo and The Show: All About K-pop, respectively. Admission is first come-first serve.

02 course2 MBC Contents World Tour

In broadcaster’s Content World Tour, meanwhile, you can get a high-tech introduction to the world of Korean dramas. Admission is by reservation only (http://withmbc.imbc.com/ center/studiotour/studiotour/index.html), but this is well-worth it as you’ll not only gain access to MBC’s digital hall of fame, with plenty of video content to enjoy, but also Cube Box theater and a number of fun, hands-on exhibits like an open news desk, open stage and a Korean Wave content zone. Also be sure to check out the Golden Mouths, awards given out to some of the industry’s top radio hosts. Fan of radio will also want to check out the Garden Studio, an open radio studio where live broadcasts are sometimes held depending on the day of the week. 03 course3 Star Park

Star Park is the open plaza that connects the Digital Media City together. You’ll find hand-printings by your favorite Korean Wave stars here and there, as well as an ice rink and some intriguing examples of public art. Also nearby is the Memorial Tree, actually a small forest with trees named after K-pop stars like Girls’ Generation and Super Junior. The trees were planted thanks to donations by fans.

38 04 course4 Korean Film Archive

A must-visit for any self-respecting fan of film, the Korean Film Archive is the Library of Alexandria of Korean cinema. There’s a museum here, of course, but the real draw is Cinematheque KOFA, a theater with regular screenings of classic Korean films and international art house cinema. Best of all, tickets are free. Lectures and exhibits related to Korean cinema are held here, too.

05 course5 CJ E&M

The corporate headquarters of Korean entertainment giant CJ is mostly off-limits to the public, but the lobby has some hand-printings, a digital experience hall and a TV broadcasting set to look at. The second floor, meanwhile, is hope to an open studio where, if you get there early enough, you can sit in the audience of popular music show M Countdown every Thursday at 6PM. Admission is first come-first serve.

※ This content is based on Korea Culture & Tourism Institute’s R&D project to analyze big data compiled from roaming services.

Published in_ February 2015 2015 Published by_ Seoul Metropolitan Government, Tourism Policy Division Publisher_ Mayor of Seoul Seoul Tour Guidebook Planning and production_ Seoul Tourism Organization Recommended Tour Courses in Seoul Designed by_ FOMANDESIGN Seoul Tour Guidebook Recommended Tour Courses in Seoul