FEBRUARY/MARCH 2016 FEBRUARY/MARCH Alert! City under masks The big Advent party has not properly settled and we’re into more fun – this time it’s the carnival. Masked para- des are strolling the city and its surroundings, Masters of Festivities are taking over the rule in each district, ne- ighborhood and street... The masks fall down by St. Valentines Day but some parties keep going, like Moovanje along Ilica street every Wednesday; see its superheroes below. INSTAGRAM* LIMITED EDITION FREE COPY Photo: Dino Ninković Photo: + Zagreb County Carnival Map * Agram German exonym its Austrian by outside Croatia known commonly more was Zagreb Keep in touch! Download your free copy and share: on Facebook on Instagram zagreb4you.com Z on Twitter infozagreb.hr TALKABOUT 1094 construction ZAGREB CATHEDRAL begins FIRST BELIEVE IT OR NOT, - its highest highness especially if you ask a 1217 Even with a number of business MINUTE local, construction work Romanesque towers sprouting across Zagreb, cathedral on the new Zagreb airport like the one on Strojarska street, Zagreb’s best is ahead of schedule. the Cathedral still keeps the 1242 height record. The only thing sugar highs Wavy roof, glass facade destroyed by that’s 4 cm higher than the and air portals are already the Mongols In this month dedicated to there and looking great. north belfry is the south belfry love, dive into Zagreb with a 1254 – rising 108,20 meters above The end is in sight: late restoration street level. First built in the dessert. Walk into the Vincek 2016, with the first flights begins Romanesque style, it kept patisserie (Ilica 18) – the city’s planned for March 2017. transforming until it was finally sweet palace – and try one @zagreb-airport.hr 1500 restored as a Neogothic church of their time-tested treats: by the Zagreb architect Herman VIKTORIJA, a 20-year- construction cream cake with chocolate of Bollé. A living memento of old student of economics, fortifications Croatia’s history, culture and topping, melt-in-the-mouth is the youngest Zagreb and towers architecture, the Cathedral chestnut puree or the rich Majorettes’s leader ever. is open to believers and Sacher torte. In their newly 1641 visitors, welcoming She was chosen out of Renaissance opened Vis à Vis (Tomićeva 620 girls who auditioned belfry built up to 5000 people 2), you can feast on equally at mass. Soon there to be part of the team, will be an elevator sumptuous gluten-, dairy- which won the Europe- 1880 and sugar-free delights. restoration all the way to the an Champion title. She’s following the top, for the best been marching the streets Zagreb city vista. 1902 1990 of Zagreb since the age of earthquake Neogothic ongoing begins cathedral restoration seven. @mazoretkinje.hr WORD EAGLES OF DEATH MET- 30 YEARS old, still study- Krafna AL play on Feb 19 at Tvorni- ing and living with parents (Krahf -nah) ca, three days following the in Novi Zagreb. According to Doughnut, Krapfen, Donut, Paris gig, a return after the a social study, this is the life Buñuelo, Ciambella, terrorist attack at Bataclan. of an average Zagreb citi- Rosquinha, Zagreb is the fifth city on zen. In 2014, Zagreb had a their sold-out tour. higher birth than death rate, ドーナツ @inmusicfestival.com but divorces also went up. 도넛 甜甜圈 Holjevac became the 6th honorary citizen of Zagreb in 2008, joining the company of Mother Theresa, WHAT Margaret Thatcher, Janica Kostelić... MONOVIEW WHERE Best for visitors to WHEN Zagreb? A stroll through the city streets BITTERSWEET PLEASURES ZAGREB YOU’RE AN AMBASSADOR OF A luxurious treat for the SUPERHEROES KRAFTERAJ. TELL US MORE ABOUT IT. lovers of bittersweet is The legendary river crossing It’s an excellent new the 5th edition of Coffee 60 years ago a decision changed the face of project that tries to revive and Chocolate Festival Zagreb forever: the Mayor instructed that the Zagreb Fair be relocated south of the Sava something which has been held Feb 11–14 at Josip river. His name was Većeslav Veco Holjevac. neglected for a long time in Jelačić Square. Get ready Đelo During the time he ran Zagreb, from 1952 to Hadžiselimović, Zagreb -- artisan producti- for the best Croatian and 1963, the city experienced a renaissance: Novi Long-time editor on. Each month at the Blues international brands of [New] Zagreb began sprouting; university at the Croatian & Booze Bar (Tkalčićeva the two black golds. You’ll buildings and a new city hall were built; and National TV, 84), it features the city’s works on the Sljeme cable car began. In 1994, known for his taste the latest in coffee the city honored Holjevac with a statue near best artisans. So far we’ve gastronomy, experience superb selection introduced outstanding Most Slobode [Liberty Bridge]; it shows the of documentaries the magic of chocolate Mayor making the first step across the Sava. people who make things artistry and see mean co- like custom bikes, knives, coa experts at work. THE ROUTE signature guitars and shoes. @zagreb-coffee-choc- YOU’D SELECT: ZAGREB IS BEST EXPERIENCED... ofest.com through a simple walk as GREEN the city’s unique activity. HORSESHOE Start with the Green Hor- VIA THE UPPER seshoe, climb to the Upper ANJA MUTIĆ Town and finish with the Author of Lonely Planet Croatia, writes for TOWN TO New York Magazine and The Washington Mirogoj Cemetery. These Post. Follow her at @everthenomad MIROGOJ are the nicest parts of Zagreb. CEMETERY THE BEST DOCUMENTARY ABOUT Traveling ZAGREB WOULD BE ABOUT... the Za- greb people, those who have without lived here and left a mark. CINEPHILE’S DELIGHT It’s the people who make a Zagreb Dox – self-dubbed city. Zagreb has had remarkable individuals, as the documentary film moving such as the writers Tin Ujević and Miroslav festival for everything fall in love with places easily. I Krleža, and some amazing sport people. new and intrepid – is a Ialso get bored easily. A part of WINTER IN ZAGREB IS ALL ABOUT... cinephile’s dream come me craves routine, and another visiting parks. There’s nothing more beau- true. Head over to Cine- part screams against it. And so my tiful than snow-covered parks. My favorite plexx Kaptol (Feb 21–28) unexpectedly prolonged stay in walking trail includes the Tomislav Square, for the finest selection of Zagreb turned into quite a journey. the Zrinjevac park and all the way along the international and regional I love my daily wanderings in the streets to the Croatian National Theater. documentaries. Their Fall neighborhood where I live. If I don’t MY FAVORITE ZAGREB RITUAL IS... in Love with Documen- get out, I feel stuck. waking up in the morning and popping to Eli’s taries warm-up program oving a place, just like a person, Caffee for the best coffee in town. Then off (Feb 12–14) will make a Lis about rekindling that state of to the Club at Draško’s for marenda [snack perfect Valentines ‘dinner wonder. Being surprised. Learning before lunch]. It’s a members-only place, so if and a movie’ night out. something new about it. Or simply you’re not from Zagreb, go to the Medvedgrad observing what you already know @zagrebdox.net pub (Ilica 49) instead. They have the nicest but with fresh eyes. So on a rainy A LOVE SONG FOR THE terrace in town. CROATIAN NATIONAL Friday around lunchtime, I left the cheerful studio where I work THEATER out weekly and headed out to for a The spectacular building HIDDEN ZAGREB dose of the new: to check out Lapo that houses the Croatian Lapo, Zagreb’s first street art studio National Theater cele- Zagreb’s best-kept (see page 4). There, I chatted with brates its 120th anniver- Bare of Pimp My Pump, and almost clandestine courtyard sary. To experience its walked out with the Tesla chair he architectural glory from hand-painted. It felt like a whiff of agreb loves to keep low profile so its best- the inside, head over on Berlin in Zagreb – you walk into a Zkept secrets hide away from well-tram- Feb 7 at 8pm for a unique courtyard and find a tiny spot where pled routes. Perfect example: Cafe u Dvorištu performance dedicated art happens. I then strolled to my fa- (in Croatian, it means ‘cafe in the courtyard’). to love. The line-up of vorite vegetarian restaurant, Zrno, Enter an arched passageway off Zeleni top Croatian singers and followed by social media catch-up Val (a leafy street that intersects Zagreb’s dancers evoke the syner- over a cappuccino at Cogito. center), subtly marked with a small sign on gy between love and art rom the moment I had left the the façade, and you’ll find this funky café through the world’s best- Fstudio, Zagreb felt like another in an unassuming low-rise building in the known theater pieces. city. The only new discovery was back. More than a café, this hub for the city’s @hnk.hr Lapo Lapo but it was my perspective creative set hosts poetry jams and literary that had shifted, somewhere along readings inside a low-lit interior with eclectic Ilica. I walked through the streets of furniture and Persian carpets. Their Cogito Zagreb as if seeing them for the first coffee is roasted on site and the selection of time. Traveling without moving. fair trade teas among the city’s best. ART ON THE MOVE The Moving Eye: Languages of Italian Kinetic Art exhibition is perfect for those who want to expand their experience of art.