VOL 48 NO 1 2018 £8.95 ENJOY THE CONTRASTS OF Chile South of the temperate vineyard-corrugated foothills of Chile’s centre One of the world’s least densely populatedlies countries,splendid Patagonia. Chile Here,nonetheless peaks rise packsstark and an sharp. awful Ancient lot intoglaciers its slender frame, not least two of the continentshave mostscored compellinga multitude of citiesfjords and– seductive sounds that yet reach stately deep inland, Santiago and vibrant Valparaiso, a technicolour tumbleadding of to hillside the drama houses. of the landscape. Thousands From of Puerto kilometres Natales, awayyou can from visit these bustling urban delights, Chile dips itsthe toes cobalt into lakes the and icysnow-capped waters ofspires the of Drake Torres DelPassage, Paine, kayaking, while its head and shoulders bask in the incessant heathiking of and the horsebacking Atacama your Desert. way around A spiky the Andeanregion. If thespine spectacular connects surroundings weren’t enough, on the shores of Last Hope Sound near the top to toe, an undulating mountain range where condors swirl around the surrounding skies. Puerto Natales lies an iconic national monument and one of the best hotels on the continent, a former cold storage plant that stands sturdy, low-slung and angular amidst the wild curves of nature. This astounding building has been imaginatively repurposed as a luxury hotel, the Singular Patagonia. Every room here has vast fl oor-to-ceiling windows, framing the cobalt waters and snow-capped spires in postcard perfect views. From the bracing breezes of Patagonia, rise with the mercury all the way to the parched plains of Atacama. The driest non-polar desert in the world, this vast volcanic landscape is a stunning martian expanse of mountains, sandy pillars and shining salt fl ats o set by the verdant, revitalising ribbon of the Catarpe valley that sweeps through the arid surroundings. Long-legged, rose-feathered fl amingos stalk the nearby lakes. Tucked away in the terracotta terrain of this valley is Alto Atacama, an extraordinary hotel in the wilderness. Meaning ‘high Atacama’, this resort is the pinnacle of desert deluxe, a smattering of hand-hewn boutique suites set amid cactus groves and ancient cli s. It’s the perfect retreat for an authentic, adventurous altiplano experience and pampering high above the pampas. For expert advice on either of these hotels, or to book your Chile holiday, call a Wexas Americas specialist on 020 7838 5958 Chile_FINAL.indd 111 10/04/2018 10:09 editorial The Spirit of Spring It was a bright cold day in April, and the clocks were see a white rhino in the wild (and that wasn’t all striking thirteen. I only quote that Orwell opener that long ago), it was bewilderingly bothering to because it is April as I write and so much of the news read that we’re really down to two females of the we’ve had in the new months of this year has been species left in the whole wild world. We’ve let a lot decidedly surreal. of wildlife down and too many species are in the autumn of their time on earth. ENJOY THE CONTRASTS OF There are a hundred crazy headlines to take your pick from. I’m sure ‘twas ever thus and I couldn’t It’s in that spirit we’ve introduced a new feature even begin to touch on the most mad, but have in the magazine, dedicated to celebrating a been thinking about three that seem pertinent to different wild animal in each issue, written by travellers, and Traveller. Jonathan Scott. Given his wealth of experience Amy Sohanpaul on on the Big Cat Diary series for the BBC, and his The first was a story about a growing – though I’m heavy headlines empathy with them, it seemed fitting to start Chile hoping it isn’t actually a hashtag thing yet – trend and the blossoming with lions. We couldn’t have hoped for a better in Japan for indoor celebrations or hanami, of the of hope first one in the series. Jonathan’s words and South of the temperate vineyard-corrugated foothills of Chile’s centre cherry blossom season. I thought it must have pictures, his wife Angie’s pictures, combined One of the world’s least densely populatedlies countries,splendid Patagonia. Chile Here,nonetheless peaks rise packsstark and an sharp. awful Ancient lot intoglaciers its been a joke, that April thing again, but apparently with the personality of a rather special young lion, slender frame, not least two of the continentshave mostscored compellinga multitude of citiesfjords and– seductive sounds that yet reach stately deep inland, Santiago not. You really can ‘Celebrate the Cherry Blossom hit the nail in the heart. and vibrant Valparaiso, a technicolour tumbleadding of to hillside the drama houses. of the landscape. Thousands From of Puerto kilometres Natales, awayyou can from visit Season with Indoor Air Hanami Fake-Flower-Viewing Parties.’ As opposed to actually being under the Joining Jonathan Scott as an Honorary President these bustling urban delights, Chile dips itsthe toes cobalt into lakes the and icysnow-capped waters ofspires the of Drake Torres DelPassage, Paine, kayaking, while its boughs as they burst into new and delicately of Wexas is Stewart McPherson, who is a rising head and shoulders bask in the incessant heathiking of and the horsebacking Atacama your Desert. way around A spiky the Andeanregion. If thespine spectacular connects surroundings weren’t enough, on the shores of Last Hope Sound near optimistic life. Imagine. Literally. star in the natural history and conservation world. the top to toe, an undulating mountain range where condors swirl around the surrounding skies. Puerto Natales lies an iconic national monument and one of the best We’re delighted to welcome him. Like Jonathan, These symbolic indoor shindigs, with live webcam hotels on the continent, a former cold storage plant that stands sturdy, he’s an inspirational advocate for the wildernesses ‘blossom budding’ streams are growing more and wildlife of our world. low-slung and angular amidst the wild curves of nature. This astounding popular. The only acceptable reason given is building has been imaginatively repurposed as a luxury hotel, the Singular pollen allergies. The others are cold weather – which Our interview with him in this issue barely scratches Patagonia. Every room here has vast fl oor-to-ceiling windows, framing the surely can’t be a new springtime thing – and crowds the surface of his achievements to date, not least cobalt waters and snow-capped spires in postcard perfect views. wielding selfie sticks. Undeniably irritating, but being the first person to visit all of the UK Overseas surely they should be the ones persuaded to go Territories. His optimism and perseverance reminded inside for the virtual experience? me of the last of those three news stories that resonated in the traveller context. It seems so sad, to sit indoors on plastic mats and watch the wonderful world outside web-cammed This was, unlike the indoor cherry blossom or the in, when it’s right on the doorstep to take part sad demise of Sudan, a happy- making story, as in. For those of us nowhere near the celebrated befits spring. For the first time in decades, hatchlings blossom, I can recommend Simon Urwin’s glorious from a vulnerable turtle species have been seen on From the bracing breezes of Patagonia, rise with the mercury all the article about Kyoto in the springtime, where a a once filthy and plastic-coated but now pristine way to the parched plains of Atacama. The driest non-polar desert in reverence for this time of year is clear in the words beach in Mumbai. the world, this vast volcanic landscape is a stunning martian expanse of the people he met while there. Having read of mountains, sandy pillars and shining salt fl ats o set by the verdant, and delighted in the piece and having listened to It’s not just that one man set about the herculean revitalising ribbon of the Catarpe valley that sweeps through the Simon’s stories about blossom time in Japan, I’m tidying up task himself, rolling up his sleeves arid surroundings. Long-legged, rose-feathered fl amingos stalk the convinced this is an experience that is not better (and trousers) and chipping away, until others nearby lakes. Tucked away in the terracotta terrain of this valley is on a screen. were inspired to join in. It’s not just that volunteers Alto Atacama, an extraordinary hotel in the wilderness. Meaning ‘high then slept for nights in the damp sand to protect Atacama’, this resort is the pinnacle of desert deluxe, a smattering The second story was about the death of the the vulnerable hatchlings from birds of prey and of hand-hewn boutique suites set amid cactus groves and ancient world’s last male white rhino, Sudan. It’s another wild dogs. It’s almost more the fact that the small cli s. It’s the perfect retreat for an authentic, adventurous altiplano hard-to-believe-it’s-true one. As a scatterling turtles themselves made their way across the big of Africa, where as a child it wasn’t unusual to sands into the Arabian Sea. Hope springs eternal. experience and pampering high above the pampas. vol 48 · no 1 · 2018 traveller 3 For expert advice on either of these hotels, or to book your Chile holiday, call a Wexas Americas specialist on 020 7838 5958 Chile_FINAL.indd 111 10/04/2018 10:09 editorial board Kate Adie obe is a distinguished bbc foreign correspondent who has spent 30 years reporting from the world’s frontlines.